DINING OUT
Wine Therapy When times get tough, wine can sooth the soul BY WILL HOWARD On March 20, 2020, the hospitality industry and thus the experience of discovering a great bottle of wine at a restaurant changed in Florida. For the last few months, I’ve been gathering a list of wines that I’ve been itching to share with people. In one way or another, these wines have helped me personally or our industry as a whole cope with the pandemic, isolation, and maintaining some sense of normalcy. I want to start with a bottle that I had tried just before the shutdown and haven’t had the opportunity to share with anyone yet, Walter Scott Chardonnay. About a week before the shutdown a fellow wine professional was having a going away party. There was a small group of wine lovers pulling out all the stops and bringing in their best bottles that don’t often come out of the cellar. The lineup included: 2000 Rabaja Barbaresco Reserva, 2013 Soliste Pinot Noir, 2011 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay, Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 1er Cru Volnay, and 2007 Vallet Fréres Grand Cru BatardMontrachet. This is a very geeky round of wines, so when a bottle of Walter Scott Chardonnay was thrown in the mix it was no surprise that I had no idea what I was drinking. The wine fit right in with the other great chardonnays on the table. I found myself still thinking about this wine weeks later. Unfortunately, they have not broken into the Florida market just yet. Kudos After weeks of take-out orders only and rarely getting to talk about wine with guests, the shutdown was taking its toll on my spirit. And then Belle Glos and Duckhorn Vineyards stepped up to support the restaurant industry in a big way. When I called these wineries with an idea to pair their wines with meal kits being prepared for takeout by Rococo Steak, they just wanted to know how they could help. They both donated wine, gifts, wine openers, and were offering discounts on pricing. I can’t say enough great things about these wineries, not only because the wine is delicious, but because the people behind the wines were there for us when we needed them. Belle Glos is made by Joe Wagner, son of the famous Napa Valley winemaker Chuck Wagner. Pinot noir is Joe Wagner’s grape of
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choice and at Belle Glos he makes three outstanding single vineyard pinot noirs: Las Alturas, Dairyman, and Clark & Telephone. I find these pinot noirs to be comforting and uplifting like a sunny day in St. Petersburg or Mom’s cooking. Each vineyard is located in a distinct region for California pinot noir including Santa Lucia Highlands, Russian River Valley, and Santa Maria Valley. Duckhorn Vineyards creates the most consistently excellent cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley, but in addition to their Napa cabernet, they have vineyards throughout California and now in Washington, as well. The quality is incredible regardless of whether we’re talking about Canvasback cabernet sauvignon from Red Mountain, Goldeneye pinot noir from Anderson Valley, or Duckhorn Vineyards cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley. Each of the Duckhorn family of wines have their own identity, but share the common goal of expressing the best quality wine possible no matter what it takes. You won’t be disappointed in these: 2018 Walter Scott Chardonnay, La Combe Verte, Willamette Valley - An illuminating style of chardonnay, showcasing density and precision. The palate spotlights evolving layers of textures which follow the aromatic notes of lemon blossoms, with the finish offering a subtle mineral and saline character. 2018 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Las Alturas, Santa Lucia Highlands - Deep garnet in color with an aromatic medley of black cherry, marionberry, ripe plum and a hint of anise. Dark fruit on the palate with flavors of wild berries, caramelized oak and cacao nibs complemented by subtle notes of vanilla, cedar and a hint of lavender and forest floor. 2017 Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Lush, energetic and intense, this gorgeous cabernet begins with aromas of blackberry, huckleberry and chocolate, as well as hints of mint, cardamom, clove and graham cracker. On the palate it displays lovely brightness, with firm, resolved tannins framing flavors of boysenberry and black currant. Will Howard is Sommelier at Rococo Steak in St. Petersburg.
