Beach Drive’s Allelo Cuisine, Comfort Won’t Disappoint

BY MARCIA BIGGS

When the former Annata and Alto Mare waterfront bistros on Beach Drive closed in late 2021, tears and fears spread throughout downtown. The trendy yet casual cafes were beloved happy hour haunts for locals who loved to sip wine and nibble charcuterie boards. Those hankies have been discarded, however, with the welcome addition of Allelo in the combined space.

New owners Shawn and Jeanna Damkoehler, who also own 400 Beach Seafood & Tap House, have created a space as welcoming as ever, with plenty of outdoor seating, an intimate bar and lounge area, and cozy dining room indoor. Partnering with Volet Hospitality Group, the Damkoehler’s concept for a casual yet classy Mediterranean-influenced restaurant focusing on small plates and sharing has drawn rave reviews from both sides of the Bay since opening in late September.

Two recent visits — one for dinner and one for Saturday brunch — affirmed the buzz, from the modern Mediterranean ambiance to the exceptional cuisine and finely tuned waitstaff. The beautiful granite bar and its Audubon-esque mural of endangered Florida birds is the centerpiece of the indoor dining area. Here patrons can relax with a comfortable seat in front of the gently lit mural, painted by local artist Annette Gloomis, or grab a table in the lounge.

I don’t know about you, but I find the comfort level of seating at a restaurant has significance in my overall enjoyment of a dining experience. Maybe I’m getting of a certain age but let’s face it, hard wood or metal seats without cushioning are a major turnoff for those of us who wish to seat our derrieres down for a couple hours and a comfortable meal.

Allelo wins 5 stars for comfortable seating, with cushioned barstools in addition to plush banquettes and table seating both indoors and out. The atmosphere inside is light and airy, with arched openings that separate the bar/lounge area from the dining room. Attractive granite tabletops, dark wood and more avian art provide a sense of serenity, although a new-age music background was a tad too loud during one visit. Despite the chic atmosphere, diners are mostly in jeans and casual attire making Allelo an easy place for a drop-in sip or bite. On both visits, our waitstaff was knowledgeable about the menu, friendly and efficient.

The talented culinary team is led by Ingi Sigurdsson who honed his talent at Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago, along with executive sous chef Tim Lentsch. Sommelier Michelle Richards is ever at the ready to answer questions about the menu of craft cocktails and the curated wine selection which leans heavily on varieties from Spain, Italy, Greece, France and Portugal.

The evening we dined mid-week, we went all in on shared plates. Yes, the charcuterie plate is a delightful teaser, but just as easy to share is the tender Octopus, Meatballs in a zesty pomodoro sauce, Clams bathed in sherry, garlic and parsley, and a lovely Beet Salad teamed with chevre and quinoa. The Beef Tartare, served with warm crusty bread, was the best my dining companion said she ever ate (and she is a tartare aficionado), perfectly prepared with herbs and spices it simply melted in the mouth.

Not into sharing? Entrees range from Striploin Steak and Baked Chicken to Pork Chops and Rack of Lamb. All are served with Mediterranean accompaniments such as quinoa or cucumber dill yogurt. Pasta entrees include Cappelletti with Spinach and Wild Mushroom, Scampi with Squid Ink Linguine and Broccolini, Lamb Bolognese, Agnolotti with Fennel, Ricotta and Leek Cream. A raw bar features East Coast Oysters, Shrimp Cocktail, and for a larger party, order the Seafood Tower for a taste of everything from the sea.

Too full to even think about dessert, we opted for Allelo’s famous house-made limoncello as our final course and we were glad we did. The delicious lemony liqueur has become so popular that it can sell out on busy nights. Don’t miss it.

Indulging in a leisurely brunch is one of my favorite pastimes, and Allelo is a winner. Served on Saturdays only from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm, the brunch menu items can be purchased individually, or you can opt for the Family Style Brunch ($34 per person) which provides a selection of nine dishes on shared plates. Choose from delightful patio seating to watch the Saturday afternoon action on Beach Drive, or dine in. We sat inside and opted for the sharable brunch.

This indulgent spread brought forth a selection of dips (hummus, labneh, babganoush), deviled eggs, cucumber and feta salad, cardamom French toast (to die for and my No. 1 choice for a single plate), olive oil pancakes, meatballs, thick cut bacon slices in maple brown sugar, and a spectacular dish called Shakshuka featuring poached eggs in a spicy red sauce.

Other brunch offerings include oysters, a caviar service ($145) complete with accoutrements, tortilla Espanola and various versions of Ricotta Toast with smoked salmon, roasted eggplant and mushrooms or apricot and honey. A cheese and charcuterie plate ($32) is highly sharable, as well.

Another specialty drink seems to be quite popular with brunchers and came highly recommended. Mia & Lucia is a refreshing margarita-like concoction made with blanco tequila, lime, and cucumber and a dash of black pepper. While available by the glass, tables order it by the pitcher ($44) which is more of a glass bulbous bowl and spout. Staff will do the pouring, as it’s a grand gesture that targets the thin stream of goodness into your glass. (Don’t try this at home.) It all makes for an entertaining brunch and one that won’t disappoint.

Welcome, Allelo, we’ll be back.

Allelo is located at 300 Beach Drive NE, St. Petersburg. Dinner only 5–10 pm Tuesday-Saturday, Saturday Brunch 1:30 am to 2:30 pm; closed Sunday and Monday. Allelostpete.com