P e a k
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A JOURNEY INTO TASTE Wine and Flavour Routes
VISITTRENTINO.IT s tr a d e d e l v ino d e l t R E N T I N O . I T
Map of the area with itineraries and events included
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The Wine and Flavours Routes of Trentino are journeys that unwind amongst lakes, mountains and vineyards, to discover the best gastronomic delights of the area and the places that produce them. There are three main themed journeys following the traditional produce of the region: the famous apples of the Val di Non and Val di Sole, the delicious cheeses of the Eastern Dolomites and the renowned wines that are found all the way from Garda to Val di Cembra. In addition to these products of excellence, every valley offers numerous individual aromas and flavours, wellknown products and new ones to discover, raw materials that are transformed into true delicacies. At the forefront of this Journey into Taste are the producers along with restaurants, agritur, B&B, wine bars and wine shops, mountain huts and alpine farmstead that all do their best to make the most of local food and wine. If you want to know the heart of Trentino, 2
it is essential that this guide accompanies you on holiday, allowing you to unearth the treasures of nature and culture through good food and a series of mouth-watering events that are not to be missed. If you want to take the flavours of Trentino back home with you, the following pages will explain about the products and wines, from the must haves to the hidden gems that really deserve to be put in your suitcase. Back at home, when you miss the great times you spent on holiday, why not prepare one of our recipes, close your eyes and savour the taste of the dish to make you feel in Trentino once again. Trentino’s Wine and Flavor Route The Dolomiti Cheese Route Valle di Non and Val di Sole Apples and Flavours Route
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Trentino’s wine and flavour route Trentino’s wine and flavour route is a scrumptious journey through high quality products and a world of culinary delights. In this area there are dramatically different landscapes, from the shores of Lake Garda to the vines of the Piana Rotaliana, from the peaks of the Dolomites in Madonna di Campiglio to the plains of Valsugana, and not forgetting the historic streets and squares dated from the Italian Renaissance period that are nestled within the towns of Trento and Rovereto. The products available to discover range from wine and cheese, cold meats and trout, fruit and vegetables, not forgetting olive oil. Products such as Trentodoc, Müller Thurgau, Vino Santo, Marzemino, Teroldego and Trentino Grappa are all leading products. 4
Amongst the cheeses, Spressa, Vezzena, “Nostrano” of Mount Baldo and many of the handcrafted cheeses made in small mountain dairies are exceptional. The cold meats of Trentino are produced following ancient recipes to produce products unique to the region: Lucanica trentina (fresh sausage), Ciuìga from Banale, Carne Salada and Carne Fumada (cured meats). If you prefer vegetables, there are the organic products of Val di Gresta or the spring asparagus from Zambana, excellent with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Garda Trentino DOP. To finish, try the fresh water fish of the area such as trout and char. What makes a difference to all these products is the environment and the valuable work of man. 5
Upper Lake Garda and Valle di Ledro Since ancient times, Lake Garda has been the cradle for civilisation and culture, thanks to its strategic location and its mild climate. The slopes surrounding the “Busa”, the area between the towns of Riva del Garda, Arco and Torbole are ideally placed for olive groves. These produce an excellent extra virgin olive oil, light and fruity, almost “extreme” if you consider that the oil is produced from olives grown on the most northern olive trees in Europe. The area’s olive presses squeeze the precious oil from these olives that boasts the Garda DOP Trentino mark. Besides oil, the area offers a high quality fruit and vegetable produce, such as Torbole’s broccoli, a listed Slow Food Product and Dro plums, a local ecotype, which
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with its unique sweet and sour taste has recently obtained the DOP mark. On the shores of the lake you can taste dishes based on freshwater fish such as perch, sardines, eels, tench, pike and carp, the best varieties that you can fish from the lake and sample in selected restaurants in Upper Lake Garda. Moving from Riva del Garda to Tenno with its lake, you can taste the carne salda (cured meat), one of the signature products of Trentino’ butchers: a very lean beef, marinated in a dry brine for a little less than three weeks. This process makes it particularly aromatic and can easily be enjoyed either cooked or raw. Continuing north, you reach Dro and then the Valley
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of the Lakes, or through the Ledro Valley the Giudicarie, whose cuisine has been influenced by Bohemian traditions, a historical legacy of the First World War. Ledro is renowned for its potato polenta, a re-cooked potato mash richly seasoned with meats and cheeses. Along the route are icy cold streams, whose cold waters are the perfect habitat for trout and char, to savour freshly cooked or marinated, pickled or smoked.
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Purple Gnocchi with a Mountain Flavour Boil 1 kg of Gresta Valley Potatoes and mash them immediately. Allow them to cool and add in the given order: 1 egg, 1 egg yolk, 1 purple cabbage previously stewed with a clove of garlic and reduced to a puree, and 250g of flour, added a little at a time. Mix well to form long 1 cm diameter rolls and then cut them into gnocchi sized pieces. Throw the gnocchi in boiling salted water. As soon as they rise to the surface scoop them out, drain well and dress with fresh lucanica (traditional sausage) toasted in a pan, melted butter, sage, and chunks of Malga Lagorai cheese. The dish is best served with a glass of Nosiola.
Nosiola and Vino Santo Vino Santo has a long history, rooted in the Valle dei Laghi and originates from Nosiola, an autochthonous white grape from Trentino, delicate and with a slight hint of hazelnut. The production has an emotionally engaging story: after a careful selection of the bunches, grapes are placed on arele (grids) and after 5-6 months, when the grapes have been dried out thanks to the help of the breeze Ora del Garda and their flavour has been enhanced by a particular noble mould, they are pressed during Holy Week. The fermentation takes place in small oak barrels over several years. The resulting wine has a goldenamber yellow colour - intense aroma with flavours of dried fruit and jam. 9
Valli Giudicarie The territory of the Giudicarie, in western Trentino, is a land with a strong agricultural connection. The Valle del Chiese on the border with the province of Brescia is best known for the cultivation of a native corn. Harvesting in early October allows a yellow flour to be obtained from it, used to cook polenta in its many variations, including the “carbonera�, a polenta to which local cheeses and meats are added. Going along the valley, we reach the Rendena valley. In its pastures are a native breed of cattle whose meats are processed by numerous local butchers. The milk produced in the local dairies of the Chiese and Rendena valleys are used to make Spressa Dop Giudicarie, a table cheese made from skimmed milk that can be sweet or spicy, depending on its age. Moving eastward, we reach Comano and then the Bleggio. Here amongst many products 10
Ciuiga del Banale stands out, a true representation of peasant life in ancient times. According to tradition, to increase the volume of the little pork that was available, white cooked turnip was added to the sausage mixture. The result is a strong sausage that can be eaten raw or cooked. In the area we can also find quality vegetables such as potatoes from Lomaso, grown in typical mountain soil and characterised by a low production that is rich in flavour. It’s worth also mentioning the prestigious nuts from Bleggio whose production dates back to the mid 1500’s. They are not particularly attractive to look at, but they are rich in taste and extremely sweet. From here, you can easily reach the Valle dei Laghi, the land of Nosiola and Vino Santo or go back up towards Lago di Molveno and Paganella. 11
Chestnut Dessert in Shot Glasses Blend 700g of boiled chestnuts into a puree, then using a bain-marie melt 150g of dark chocolate, add 150g of butter and let it all melt together, stirring constantly. Add to the chestnuts 130g of sugar, the butter and chocolate mixture, 1 teaspoon of vanilla essence and 1 shot glass of grappa: mix all the ingredients together until the mixture is smooth. Pour the chestnut mixture into small glasses until they are three quarters full. Allow the mixture to cool for at least an hour. Before serving, lightly whip 200ml of cream and spoon it on top of the glass, sprinkling some grated dark chocolate to finish. The dish goes well with a glass of Trentino Grappa.
Trentino Grappa The production of grappa in Trentino is a practice that has roots reaching back into the mists of time. In small family businesses operating in the sector you can still find evidence of centuries of experience, passed down from generation to generation, where man still remains a key factor. The principles of traditional distillation remain unchanged, following the conventional rules of an indirect heat source and the slow processing of fresh and fragrant marc derived exclusively from Trentino grapes. To guarantee the quality, the Istituto Tutela Grappa del Trentino oversees the process, before approving the brand as Trentino Grappa, which is only awarded to high quality products and certified on every single approved bottle. 12
Vallagarina Vallagarina is an area with a strong dedication to viticulture, especially regarding Marzemino that’s found growing alongside the Adige river from the southern borders of Trentino to the doors of the Province’s capital. Here the vineyards are interspersed with villages and ancient historical castles, while the river is protected by picturesque mountain plateaus. Overlooking Lake Garda to the west, Monte Baldo has a unique natural flora, influenced by a Mediterranean climate. This wealth from nature generates milk and a unique cheese named Nostrano Monte Baldo. The production of selected large chestnuts in the area of Castione di Brentonico is also noteworthy. Even Val di Gresta is blessed with the
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gentle climate of Lake Garda: this valley, affectionately called the Valley of the Gardens has given rise to the organic production of vegetables over the last thirty years, with valuable organoleptic properties. Returning to the main valley and going past Rovereto (renowned for the special processing of horsemeat), once you reach Castel Beseno we can go back to Folgaria, Lavarone and Luserna. Here the pastures produce a highquality milk and Vezzena, a cheese with a long history, loved by Emperor Franz Joseph. It retains unique flavours and aromas that recall the floral and herbaceous mountain meadows.
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Fresh Goat Cheese wrapped in Carne Salada (cured beef) Take 200g fresh goat cheese and work it into a soft and smooth mixture, adding a sprinkling of chilli powder to taste. Spread the mixture over 10 thin slices of carne salada, then roll the meat slices and tie them with a sprig of chive to keep their shape. Keep cool. Blend 3 tablespoons of DOP Garda Trentino extra virgin olive oil with a tablespoon of aromatic Trentino vinegar, salt and pepper. Garnish the rolls with chopped chives and parsley, drizzle over the prepared vinaigrette and serve immediately. The dish goes well with a glass of Marzemino wine.
Marzemino The iconic wine of Vallagarina, which best expresses itself in the two areas of Isera and Ziresi to Volano. Its arrival in Trentino is linked to the soldiers of the Venetian Republic who brought some small plants from the Carinthian village of Marzimin. The exposure, temperature and good quality of the soil found in Vallagarina have bought the best out of this wine, so that even Mozart endorsed it ahead of its time, mentioning it in his opera “Don Giovanni�. The wine, a beautiful lively ruby red, is characterised by fruity and floral aromas, predominately violet.
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Valsugana and Lagorai From Folgaria and Lavarone, following the valley bottom through some trails, you reach the plateau at the foothills of the Vigolana Mountain, renowned for its production of fruit and vegetables. Following this is Valsugana, a land with a varied landscape and rich agricultural production, that though the wisdom of many local companies, is transformed into excellent handmade food products. From Pergine you can reach the Valle dei Mocheni, a typical rural territory that has maintained a strong cultural identity, reflected in its gastronomic products. The agriculture of the valley focusses on the cultivation of berries and along a dedicated trail one can find out how strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, cranberries and currants grow and mature. Continuing south down the valley, past the beautiful lakes of Levico and Caldonazzo you find the Lagorai mountain range, a true jewel of nature and landscape. 16
In the heart of the valley, from the town of Roncegno, you can reach the mountain pastures where the Malga Lagorai cheese originates from which is a Slow Food product. The area of Roncegno, in addition to some areas of the Vigolana plateau are dedicated to the cultivation of chestnuts, where special events are held in autumn. Delicacies such as chestnuts in brandy and chestnut purĂŠe are produced from these gifts of nature. In Valsugana in recent years, the cultivation of old varieties of corn have been rediscovered, such as Spin whose name derives from the arched shape of the grains and from which an excellent polenta flour is produced. An unmissable stop is the Lagorai mountain range, with its mountain huts where you can taste the local sausage and the “fieryâ€? flavour of a typical hot drink made with coffee, wine, brandy and sugar that will surprise you with its strong taste. 17
Trentino Cheescake Make the biscuits for the cheesecake base by mixing together 200g of Storo polenta flour, 100g of white flour, 1 sachet of yeast, 60g of sugar, 90g of butter and 1 beaten egg. Shape the biscuits so that they are 4-5mm thick and bake them in a preheated oven at 180 degrees for 15 minutes. Once cooked, crush the biscuits, combine them with 100g of melted butter and spread this mixture into the base of a cake tin. Let everything rest for 10 minutes in the refrigerator. Mix together 300g of fresh ricotta cheese with 300g of fresh whipped cream and then stir in 6 tablespoons of sugar to create the cheesecake mixture. Pour the mixture over the biscuit base and let it rest in the fridge for a couple of hours more. Before serving, garnish with berries or a fresh berry jam and a tablespoon of Trentino honey. The dish goes well with a glass of Trentodoc Demisec.
Trentodoc The history of Trentino’s “bubbly” began thanks to the passion and tenacity of Giulio Ferrari, the “father” of Italian sparkling wine. A student at the Imperial Regia Scuola Agraria in S. Michele, after gaining experience in the Champagne region he decided to return home to exploit the secrets of the French producers to prove that the Trentino area could become a top producer of sparkling wine at a national level. It was 1902 and in a small winery in the heart of Trento, Ferrari started a small production of high quality sparkling wine, revolutionising winemaking in the area. Over the years, new companies were born which gave birth to the Institute Trento Doc Metodo Classico. In 1993, there was the official recognition of D.O.C. “TRENTO”, 18
Trout Tartare with Apple and Lemon Juice Cut 200g of trout fillet into small cubes. Cube a sharp apple such as a Granny Smith. Add the juice from half a lemon of Garda Trentino. Mix all the ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Leave the mixture to rest in the refrigerator for an hour so that the flavours can combine. Serve the mixture onto the plate using a pastry ring to form its shape and garnish with fresh chive. Its perfect served with toast and mountain farmhouse butter. The dish goes well with Trentodoc Brut.
the first in the world reserved for a classic method after Champagne. The specification dictates strict production rules that follow the method of second fermentation in the bottle, requiring high quality grapes exclusively from Trentino, an extended contact with lees, an aging process in the bottle and a professionalism in the cultivation and production processes. To the base wine, which consistsmainly of Chardonnay grapes, sugars and yeasts are added. The wine starts the second fermentation followed by contact with the lees for at least 15 months, the disposal of waste products, dosing and final bottling. The colour is straw yellow, more intense in the reserve range. The perlage is dense and persistent while the scent is delicate, elegant, fruity and fragrant with a delicate hint of yeast and freshly baked bread. 19
Val di Cembra and PinĂŠ From Valsugana it is easy to reach the PinĂŠ Plateau. The area offers typical mountain produce: cheese from the mountain pastures, wild berries, tasty sausages and delicious desserts. A visit to the villages of Baselga di PinĂŠ and Bedollo, with their beautiful lakes, will allow you to discover the true flavours of the valley. The itinerary continues to Sover and from there we reach the famous Pyramids of Segonzano and then the Cembra Valley, a splendid example of alpine viticulture. The bold terraces built by hand to better utilise the steep land give character to
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the landscape where MĂźller Thurgau, one of the most iconic wines from Trentino thrives. This valley is famous for the production of sausages, from the more traditional ones (Lucanica Trentina) to the less known such as the carne salmistrada o fumada (cured or smoked meat) from the Val di Cembra. For the smoking process, wood from the vines mixed with branches of juniper are sometimes used. Returning towards the Adige valley, following the course of the Avisio River, we reach the towns of Faedo or the enchanting Avisiane hills as well as the Piana Rotaliana.
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Zambana Asparagus, Nuts and Vezzena Salad Peel a bunch of Zambana asparagus, cutting them into strips. Prepare the dressing by mixing together 3 tablespoons of DOP Garda Trentino extra virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons of aromatic Trentino vinegar and 1 teaspoon of mustard. Roughly chop a handful of Bleggio nuts before serving the asparagus salad, drizzled with the vinaigrette and sprinkle with the chopped nuts and shavings of seasoned Vezzena cheese. The dish is best served with a glass of Müller Thurgau.
Müller Thurgau Created by crossing Riesling and Chasselas, this wine was conceived in 1881 by the Swiss researcher Hermann Müller from Thurgau and can now be found in Trentino, especially in Cembra, its natural home. It is cultivated throughout the valley in an area called “classica”, in which the vineyards, located 500 metres above sea level, are able to enhance the grape’s original freshness and aroma. The fruit is sweet to the taste, while the wine is a pale yellow colour with golden reflections and green hues: it is well structured, dry and sustained by an acidity that makes the taste particularly aromatic and persistent. 22
The Trentino Hamburger Prepare a tartare with a knife, using 200g of carne salmistrada (cured meat) from Val di Cembra, 50g of Spressa DOP from Giudicarie and dress it with DOP Garda Trentino extra virgin olive oil. Form two hamburgers. Cook 150g of tinned Borlotti beans with half a chopped shallot, a sprig of rosemary, a little oil and salt and pepper in a pan for 3-4 minutes. Afterwards, remove the rosemary sprig and blend the beans mixture in a food processor to form a mousse. Cut two homemade bread rolls in half and serve the hamburger with a scoop of bean mousse inside each roll. This dish is excellent when accompanied by a glass of Teroldego rotaliano.
Teroldego rotaliano Teroldego Rotaliano has been regarded as the “Prince� of Trentino wines since the time of the Council of Trento. This native vine best expresses its qualities in the soils of the Rotaliana plain. Fundamental to its success is the composition of the soil, composed of alluvial deposits from the river Noce, and its exposure to the summer sun. Production techniques have allowed the wine to assert itself through the centuries, receiving recognition in 1971 as the first varietal DOC in the province. The colour is an intense purplish ruby red; the smell is distinctive, pleasantly fruity with hints of ripe fruit such as blackberry, blueberry and raspberry. 23
Trento and the Piana Rotaliana The Piana Rotaliana has been defined by Cesare Battisti as “the most beautiful vineyard in Europe”. Here is where Teroldego, the prince of Trentino’s wines is produced. In spring, its alluvial soils provide a true delicacy: the white asparagus, whose quality in the municipality of Zambana is the guaranteed by the De.Co denomination. Piana Rotaliana is also home to the Foundation E. Mach – the Agricultural Institute of San Michele and the Museum of Uses and Customs of the Trentino People, located in San Michele. It tells the story of the local population through the historic analysis of the daily life of farmers, herdsmen and artisans, while the Mach Foundation conducts research, education and training for the agricultural and food industries. 24
Heading south, we encounter Trento. The vine-clad hills that surround the capital define the landscape and make it the cradle for the production of Trentodoc. Monte Bondone, the mountain of the city, is a treasure of Alpine flavours, famous for its sausages amongst which Lucanica, made of pork and lard is a classic ingredient of many signature dishes. Amongst these sausages, those produced with meat from pigs reared exclusively in Trentino can bear the Slow Food mark. The city is also home to the Provincial Wine House of Trentino in Palazzo Roccabruna, a true reference point for discovering the gastronomic world of Trentino and to taste all types of wines produced in the area, accompanied by a selection of the most representative productions. 25
The Dolomite Cheese Route The cheese route passes through places of legend, surrounded by the beautiful Dolomites, a World Natural Heritage Site. From Val di Fiemme to Primiero and through Val di Fassa, three mountain valleys where agriculture and tourism have created a unique balance that has resulted in an excellent blend of nature and taste. There are over 70 companies included as places to visit and to taste on this route, comprising of manufacturers, restaurants, agritur, hotels, B&Bs, shops and wine bars that are all committed to the promotion of local cheeses and other delicacies. People who have turned their job into an art form and who are the guardians of secrets and sensations.
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The rich dairy production in the area is characterised by high-quality artisan cheeses. Cheeses that entrap the aromas of the pastures that come from the unique and special flavour of the milk. Cheese that are used in many recipes that combine tradition and innovation and accompany the flavours of meats, sausages, honey, beer, fruit and grappa. This is not simply a route, but an entire territory where everyone can plan his or her own journey of taste. There is only one piece of advice, to allow the time to appreciate the differences between eating and savouring, sleeping and resting, buying and discovering. www.stradadeiformaggi.it
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Val di Fassa and Pale di San Martino From Val di Fassa to Pale di San Martino: Cheeses of the Dolomites Cheese is the star of the gastronomic offerings that originate at the foot of the Dolomites, a Unesco World Heritage Site, from the Rosengarten to the Pale di San Martino, through the Latemar. It starts from Val di Fassa, where the Cooperative dairy is a symbol of the Ladin tradition, based on passion, hence the name: Cher de Fasha - Fassa’s Heart. Flavours meet culture in the Ladin Museum, which has its headquarters in the town of Vigo, where every summer original food and wine events take place. Ladin 28
products and recipes can be enjoyed all year round in shops, restaurants and mountain huts, from Canazei to Moena, up to the San Pellegrino Pass. From here, we continue to Predazzo, the cradle of the Puzzone di Moena cheese whose secrets are revealed by an interesting guided tour of the dairy. Proceeding to Rolle Pass, you find yourself in the heart of the Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino Natural Park but not without having made a detour to Val Venegia. When you reach the pass, you can take a tour of the alpine pastures and dairy farms, tasting and purchasing dairy products that are born at the foot of the Pale di San Martino. Finally, we head down to San Martino di Castrozza for the ‘tasty’ ski circuit called “Around the Mountain Dairies”, ideal for both children and grown ups. 29
Puzzone di Moena in a Saracen Flour Batter Create a batter mix that is on the thick side by mixing a pint of milk with one egg, a shot glass of Trentina Grappa, 100g of white flour, 270g of Saracen flour and salt to taste. Dip cubes of Puzzone di Moena cheese into the batter mix and plunge them into a pan of hot oil until they are golden coloured. Serve with a Val di Gresta cabbage salad.
Puzzone di Moena A mature cheese made with raw milk from the municipalities of Moena and Predazzo, with its distinct aroma that delights enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. It has initial pungent notes intertwined with scents of mountain pastures, wild grasses, ripened fruits and hints of toasted hazelnut. Tradition states that during the aging process the cheese wheels are “washed� by hand by the cheesemakers with warm water to encourage the formation of a waterproof outer layer, within which develop the characteristic smells and flavours. The version produced at the Malga (mountain dairy) is made in the summer with raw milk from the mountain pastures and is a Slow Food Listed Product. The cheese is in the process of attaining the D.O.P. certification. 30
Canederli with “Nostrano” Chees Cut 400g of stale bread into cubes and place in a bowl. Beat 2 eggs with a pint of milk and pour the mixture over the bread. Mix in 60g of “Nostrano” (Cher de Fascia or Formae Val di Fiemme or Primiero) chopped fresh parsley and a pinch of salt and leave the mixture to rest for an hour. Form balls from the mixture and coat L Malghier – Cheesemaking A dairy museum? That’s right, the new section of the Ladin Museum, inside the Val di Fassa dairy describes
in flour. Cook in boiling salted water for 10 minutes, then drain and serve with melted butter and Trentingrana cheese.
the age-old art of farming and cheesemaking, from prehistory to the present day, with an opportunity view the current cheesemaking process and taste the cheese produced in the adjacent store. www.istladin.net
Nostrani -Local Cheeses Formae Val di Fiemme, Fassa’s heart (Cher de Fascia, in Ladin) and Primiero are three local cheeses produced respectively in the valleys of Fiemme, Fassa and Primiero. They are all produced using similar processes, falling under the category of washed rind cheeses and with the same raw materials: just milk, curd and salt. What makes them different from each other is purely the milk which when used raw makes each cheese wheel unique, keeping alive the DNA of a specific territory, grazing area or cattle breed. They are available fresh or cured on the pastures themselves, acquiring a distinctive yellow colour and a smell of grass and flowers from the pasture. 31
Val di Fiemme The “Magnificentâ€? Products of Val di Fiemme A land of ancient traditions and home of a magnificent community, Val di Fiemme boasts renowned products that are leaders in gastronomic events. In Cavalese you can discover some ancient cakes with a modern twist, such as the cake made with Fiemme Beer, brewed in the nearby village of Daiano, a place not to be missed, along with Varena for lovers of bacon and sausages, some made with goat meat. Continue towards Carano to make a stop at the cheese factory that produces fresh and aged goat cheese and Formae Val di Fiemme. Decending to Castello di Fiemme you notice dozens of bee hives: here as in the whole valley, the bees produce an excellent wildflower honey available for sale from the many local beekeepers or in the shops selling traditional products. In this area, you can also find locally produced tasty raspberries. We suggest a detour to Valfloriana to taste the organic cheese made with milk from the Grey Alpine cow breed. Passing through Tesero and PanchiĂ , where you can find a good rabbit meat raised locally and distilleries producing traditional Trentino Grappa, you get to Predazzo, where the Puzzone of Moena is combined with its famous pasta brand produced locally which since 1908 has owed its quality to the purity of water that flows from the surrounding peaks. 32
Trentingrana and Fresh Goat Mousse Cones Spread grated Trentingana cheese on baking paper, in circular shapes with a diameter of roughly 10cm. Cook it in a microwave oven until it is golden. Pull it out and immediately wrap it around a cone while it’s soft to give it shape. Separately, mix whipped fresh goat cheese with whipping cream. Season with salt and personalise the flavour with aromas, spices or herbs. Put the mixture into a cream whipper and serve it like an ice cream cone.
Cavalese’s Goat Cheese In recent years, there has been a resurgence in the production of goat cheese, which was widespread in the Fiemme Valley until the Seventies. Today, Cavalese is the home to fresh and aged goat cheese, with its characteristic flavour enhanced by an aging process. They are also available in an original version “di fossa” called Fiemmaz de Foss. An excellent cheese, best enjoyed with local honey and jams, and an undisputed star of the Desmontegada de le Caore (decent of the goats), the September event in Cavalese to celebrate the return of the goats from the summer pastures. 33
Fiemmaz de Foss What do Val di Fiemme and Mondaino have in common? The culprit is the De Desmontegada de le Caore (descent of the goats), of 2011, the beginning of a cultural exchange between these two lands, which gave rise to the “pit aged cheese of the Dolomites” . The twinning combines the fragrant milk of alpine pastures and the cheese-making tradition of Fiemme with the technique of Romagna cheese ripening in a pit (fossa). The three cheeses are the foss de Caprino of Cavalese (the first Italian goats cheese to be aged in a pit), the Casàt of Valfloriana and the Dolomiti Predazzo, all very tasty, low-fat cheeses.
Microbrewery Beers The handcrafted beers of the Dolomites that are produced in Val di Fiemme and Primiero have returned to the traditional method of local brewing that was lost after the war in favour of industrially produced products. The two breweries, united in their use of traditional recipes, use pure mountain water and locally produced hops flowers to produce a non-pasteurised beer that is free of preservatives and stabilisers. Many different types of beer are produced, from the classic red, clear traditional Fiemme beers (Nosà and Lupinus), to the blonde and refreshing Staiòn and the more delicate Alta Vienna from the Primiero brewery. 34
Elderflower Parfait with Honey Skewers Beat 8 egg yolks together. Bring to the boil 50g of dextrose, 50g of wildflower honey, 150g of elderflower syrup and 25g of white wine. Cool the mixture to 30°C, add the beaten egg yolks and continue to whisk. Add 250g of whipped cream to the mixture, pour into moulds and freeze. For the skewers: dissolve 100g of rhododendron honey on a moderate heat source with vanilla essence. Pour into silicone moulds and place in freezer. After an hour, insert wooden cocktail sticks in each mould and freeze for a further 2 hours. Remove the moulds and dip the honey skewers in melted dark chocolate. Keep in the freezer until needed.
Honey Capturing the authentic perfumes and flowers of the Dolomites, this honey has the quality of these mountains, quintessence of plants, meadows, pastures and woods. It is a truly authentic honey and its availability changes due to the weather and environmental conditions. The main type is wildflower and is different in every production apart from its intense aroma and flavour. The rare rhododendron honey is delicate, light and clear coloured, produced at high altitude. Do not miss the fir honeydew, with its amber tones and traits of balsamic flavours, a panacea if dissolved in warm milk. 35
Primiero and Vanoi Primiero and Vanoi, a direct link between the past and the future The route starts from Siror, where a special carne fumada (smoked meat) has been produced for over forty years. Tonadico is the starting point of the educational trail Tonadico - Cimerlo, which leads up to Val Canali, a “bio-diverse valley,” thanks to the important eco-sustainable projects promoted by the Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino Park. Villa Welsperg is worth a visit to see the caretaker’s garden. Throughout the area, nature and its flavours inspire many walks, also beneath the stars. Younger children can enjoy riding on donkeys near the highest cultivation point of small fruits in Trentino, at the foot of the Passo Cereda. In Mezzano, a village listed amongst the most beautiful in Italy, a stop at the Cooperative Dairy is a must. Here you can taste Tosèla and the Nostrano Primiero cheese; the excellent ones are produced in mountain dairies and ideal when accompanied by local honey. In the summer, you can also find the Botìro of Primiero from the mountain dairies. To discover where and how Botìro butter is made you have to go to Malga Fossernica in Valle del Vanoi, on the edge of the Tour of the Ethnographic Path dedicated to the mountain dairies and organised by the Vanoi Eco-museum. Finally, above Zortea, you can find strawberries and blueberries and herbal teas made with wild herbs. 36
Primiero’s Botìro from mountain dairies Produced in Primiero and Vanoi exclusively with unpasteurised cream obtained from the natural skimming of milk produced from the mountain dairies of Fossernica, Fosse and Rolle, it is recognisable by its golden yellow colour and the rich scent of flowers and grass. Kneaded by hand and placed in wooden moulds, it is available to the dairy in small quantities from June to September. Best consumed fresh with bread and jam, or melted, the star of a dedicated exhibition and fun days on the pastures. The best recipe amongst them all? The “pape” with Botìro and poina fumada.
Tosèla Cheese from Primiero Tosela is a fresh cheese (more precisely a curd cheese) typical of Primiero, which should be consumed within a few days of production. It is produced with cow’s milk on the same day of milking so that all the fragrance of the mountain pasture herbs remains intact, preserving the milk’s flavour. Primiero’s traditional cuisine uses it cut into slices about half an inch thick. It is then browned in butter, preferably Botìro di Primiero, and served with polenta and Trentino sausages.
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The Alpine Grey Cow The breed of Alpine grey cow is ideal for the mountain economy, but was facing extinction due to its poor productivity. The Slow Food Presidium now supports the cow’s preservation and lays down the rules for its milk and meat supply chain. Thanks to the Alpine grey breed in Val di Fiemme, cheeses made with raw milk, such as the Organic Winter and First Flower of Malga Sass are produced, alongside an excellent carne salada (cured meat), delicious when served seasoned with DOP Garda Trentino extra virgin olive oil and shavings of Fiemmaz de foss cheese.
Trentino Smoked Meat Mountain air, quality cattle feed and animal welfare are the foundations of Trentino’s high quality pork, beef, veal, goat and rabbit meats. How was it kept before the freezer existed and you didn’t want to throw anything away? – by using the traditional method of smoking and curing. This has led to typical products such as carne fumada di Siror (smoked meat), speck and lucanica (sausage meat). The first is silverside beef dipped in brine, smoked and aged for at least a month. The secret? The marinade used for smoking the meat (herbs and spices), the curing room and the history behind the producers. 38
Casada With a fork crush 300g of fresh ricotta, whip 400ml of cream by hand or with a handmixer. Mix the two ingredients together with a wooden spoon, stirring from the bottom up, until you get a creamy consistency. It is best enjoyed spread on cornflour cookies produced locally and with a smattering of berry jam.
Produce of Trentino’s Agriturs Would you like to take home the delights tasted in an agritur? A group of about twenty agritours in Trentino have joined forces to meet this demand, producing a number of precious handmade, high quality and flavoursome goods. Don’t miss out on their juices, sauces and wild berry jams produced in Val di Fiemme and Primiero and organic cheeses from Valfloriana. We suggest you buy them in the place where they are produced, to fully appreciate their character and history. You can live a truly unforgettable experience in contact with nature and maybe adopt a plant or a cow. For info: www.agriturismotrentino.com. 39
Valle di Non and Val di Sole apples and flavours route Spellbinding places, smells and tastes: all these are found within the valleys of Noce river, two bordering areas that share the richness of a landscape filled with lakes and streams. This north-western corner of Trentino comprises of 7,000 hectares of orchards, where more than 4,000 farmers produce the only apple in Italy with a DOP denomination. In the higher areas of the Val di Non and Val di Sole, cattle breeding is found everywhere. The milk produced here is used to make various dairy specialties such as Trentingrana, Casolèt and numerous Nostrani cheeses, each characterised by mountain and pastures aromas that come from the animal fodder that is made from local grass. There are
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excellent meats to try such as smoked Mortandela, and a small-scale production of wine that is produced from the resurrected vineyards found on the shores of Lake Santa Giustina, where Groppello di Revò has been reintroduced. These valleys aren’t limited to just a generous production of apples, but also pears, cherries, berries and vegetables such as cabbage and potatoes, which grow at altitude giving them an intense fragrance. Many other products are made from local fruit and vegetables such as apple juice, cider and jams, whilst the many bees that favour the pollination of the fruit trees produce a delicious honey.
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Val di Non Val di Non, not only about apples This valley is definitely the “homeland” of the apple and the undisputed first point of call has to be the visitor center in Mollaro dedicated to the world of the apple. Here you can learn about the cultivation and production of this fruit, which is a symbol of the territory. Continuing in the direction of Cles, you reach the village of Taio and then climb to the village of Tres, where you can visit the only company in the valley that produces apple cider. From there you can then go on to Vervò and then to the Predaia plateau, to descend to Coredo and Smarano where you can learn about the methods of processing Mortandela from the area’s 42
local butchers and discover the many dairy products in the local dairy farm - not only aged cheese, but cottage cheese, yogurt and desserts made with fresh milk. From Coredo you can go down to Cles and from there head towards the villages bordering on Lake Santa Giustina, where you can visit some of the wineries producing Groppello di Revò. Continuing on from the village of Cloz you pass through the village of Brez and within minutes you get to Fondo and reach the upper area of Val di Non, characterised by its wide meadows and rich pastures - the historic place of Trentingrana production. Here you can find some excellent honey and sweet berries that are used to make juices and jams.
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Val di Non Apple DOP Tasty, juicy, healthy and nutritious apples from Val di Non are the symbol of this land. The climate, exposure of the terrain and the soil are elements that have a positive influence on the taste of this fruit, characterised by its crispness and fragrance. Of particular note is the brightness of these valleys. With more than two thousand hours of sunshine a year, it offers the perfect ripening conditions for the apples, giving them an range of wonderful flavours. There are five varieties of apple cultivated: during September and October fresh Gala apples are
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Apple Muffins Work 125g butter and 125g of sugar together in a bowl to obtain a creamy texture. Add vanilla extract, 3 eggs, salt and lemon zest. Separately, mix 250g of flour with 1 teaspoon of baking powder and add this to the previous mixture, slowly adding milk until you get a soft dough. Spoon out the mixture into muffin cases and sprinkle two diced apples on top. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180 degrees for 20 minutes. Before serving, sprinkle with icing sugar.
harvested, followed by another three D.O.P. varieties, Renetta Canada which is rich in antioxidants, the beautiful and the unmistakable Red Delicious and the very crunchy Golden Delicious, ending when the highest surrounding mountain peaks are covered by the first snow, with the sweet Fuji. The apple is a good for your health; it contains several antioxidants that prevent the action of free radicals, as well as many vitamins. Apple is an essential component of the local gastronomic tradition. Apples are used to in a variety of tasty dishes and sweets of which the best known is certainly strudel.
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Cream of Golden Apples and Flowers SautĂŠ 40g of shallots in 20g of Trentino butter, then sprinkle over 50 ml of white wine. Peel and finely cube one potato and add it to the mixture. Pour over 400ml of vegetable stock. Halfway through cooking, add 1 Golden Delicious apple that has been peeled and grated. When cooked, blend everything together and at the end add 100ml of cream. Garnish with a skewer of apples and edible flowers.
Apple Cider and other Apple Products Thanks to their aromas and flavours, apples are used to obtain numerous products such as juices, vinegars, jams and liqueurs. A product that is particularly of interest is cider that is made from pressed fermented apple juice. Lightly carbonated and with a moderate alcohol content it was traditionally produced by farmers from upper Val di Non where they could not grow grapes due to the altitude of the territory. Intense with a fruity aroma, it is excellent as an aperitif, a wonderful accompaniment to a dessert or the whole meal.
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Adopt an Apple Tree Between April and May, Val di Non is covered in white with the blossom of blooming apple trees, a sight not to be missed and a gift from Mother Nature that only lasts for a few days. When staying at one of the farmhouses you can learn about the families who cultivate with love the famous “apples of Val di Non”, discover secrets, listen to the history and taste the many apple varieties and their by-products. During the spring, you can take care of an apple tree. The “Adopt an Apple Tree” initiative lets you get in the orchards and choose a tree to “adopt”, attaching a label with your name on to it. Your tree will be lovingly nurtured by the farmer and in the autumn you can comeback to pick up a box of apples from your personal tree. 47
Smoking hot Val di Sole Polenta with Casolèt and Mortandela Bring 1 litre of salted water to the boil, then pour in 200g of Val di Sole polenta flour and whisk everything together. Cook for 40 minutes and then add 50g of Casolèt cheese. Meanwhile, cook a few slices of Mortandela in a hot frying pan, turning it so that it cooks on both sides, add a splash of Groppello di Revò to the meat in the hot pan, followed by a knob of local Malga butter. Serve the polenta onto a plate and decorate it with the cooked Mortandela and the remaining sauce from the pan.
Smoked Mortandela from Val di Non In the past in Val di Non, every family used to buy a pig at the Fair of the Saints and raise it for 12 months, feeding it potatoes, bran, vegetables scraps and hay. With its meat they produced Mortandela - the typical smoked salami of Val di Non, now a Listed Slow Food Product. Mincemeat and spices are mixed together to form meatballs of various dimensions depending on the size of the butcher’s hands. These are then smoked gently, using beech wood and juniper. After a few weeks of curing it can be eaten sliced, either raw or cooked. The Mortandela accompanies the traditional “tortel di patate”, a typical potato dish of Val di Non. 48
Groppello di Revò Groppello di Revò is a native vine, recently resurrected thanks to the passion of a small group of local winemakers with a tradition of vine growing, even in extreme conditions. Groppello di Revò is grown on the steep banks of Lake Santa Giustina in the municipalities of Cagnò, Revò, Romallo and Cloz. Available in very limited quantities, Groppello is a medium-bodied red wine with an intense ruby amaranth colour, a good level of acidity and rich in tannins. From its marc you get an excellent grappa with intense aroma and flavour, whilst dry, fresh and gentle.
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Val di Sole Discovering Val di Sole, home to Casolèt Cheese In the lower part of Val di Sole there are still some apple orchards, which gradually disappear as you go up the valley. This is the land of Casolèt cheese, which you can buy in dairies in the area. When in MalÊ, it is definitely worth making a stop to buy the apple strudel and many other local pastries. From here we head towards Croviana, renowned for its honey production, where there are more than 40 small beekeepers
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Potato Talleri stuffed with
over it, leaving a suitable distance
Casolèt Cheese from Val di Sole
between each cube along with
Wash and boil 1kg of potatoes
some previously braised onion and
with their skins on. When they are
a cube of butter, then add another
freshly cooked, peel and mash them
layer of dough on top. Cut the
and then placed them on a clean
dough into the desired shape, as
work surface. When cold, add 500g
with ravioli. Make sure the parcels
of flour and an egg and work the
are sealed tightly before cooking
mixture until it is smooth. With a
in boiling water for 5 minutes from
rolling pin roll out the potato dough
the point where the water starts to
to a 1cm thickness. Place cubes
boil again. Best served dressed with
of Casolèt cheese from Val di Sole
melted Trentino butter.
sharing a great passion for this activity. To get to know this sweet universe you should not miss Melissa, an event which celebrates the bees and their honey. It is held every year during the third weekend of July. Going up to the middle and upper Val di Sole it is worth paying a visit to the characteristic side valleys of Rabbi and Pejo, famous for their thermal waters and where you can buy goat cheese at the last caseificio turnario in Trentino (a shared ownership artisan dairy).
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Tortel de Patate Peel and grate 6 to 7 raw potatoes, add 2 tablespoons of flour, a pinch of salt and mix everything together carefully. Pour the mixture into a non-stick pan with enough oil in it to shallowfry, so that the mixture forms small pancakes. Cook them on both sides until they are crispy and golden. Tortel de patate is best served with smoked Mortandela salami, Trentina sausagemeat (lucanica) and local cheeses, along with the traditional cabbage of the area. Excellent accompanied by a glass of Groppello di Revò.
Casolèt Cheese from Val di Sole The Casolèt, is a Listed Slow Food Product, has a soft and uncooked texture. It is made from whole milk and is produced only in Val di Sole. Its pale or slightly straw colour, its soft texture and the smell of alpine herbs and its smooth rind makes it easy to recognise. The name has a Latin origin that derives from “caseolus” meaning small cheese. In the past, it was only produced in autumn, when the herds were already descended from the mountain pastures and daily milkings were scarce: it was therefore the typical cheese served on the local tables, to be consumed mainly in the family during the long winter months. Even today, the wheels weigh no more than one kilogram. 52
Pejo’s caseificio turnario Pejo is home to the last caseificio turnario (a shared ownership artisan dairy) in operation in Trentino. If visiting the dairy in the morning you can witness the cheese making, which has always been the same since 1935. It is an experience that explains the differences between what is produced industrially and what we make, as in the past, slowly and carefully, using hands and knowledge passed down from ancient traditions. Every day, the dairyman works the cow and goat milk delivered by the valley’s farmers. The caserada, i.e. the daily cheese production, is owned by one of the members of the dairy, in turn. The number of caserade is proportional to the amount of milk brought to the dairy.
Trentingrana At over a thousand metres in altitude, mountain pastures and meadows produce a special and unique mix of grasses and herbs that gives the locally produced milk a flavour rich in aromas. This is the milk used to produce Trentingrana, a DOP branded hard cheese that requires a long aging period of 18 to 24 months. It has become one of the leading traditional culinary products in Trentino and is known for its unique flavour and its nutritional properties. Trentingrana originated in Val di Non where in 1926, Mr. Marchesi di Rumo used the milk produced in Cloz in the art of cheesemaking, a skill he learnt thanks to an encounter with a girl from Mantova. 53
STRADA DEL VINO E DEI SAPORI DEL TRENTINO Via della Villa 6, 38123 Villazzano di Trento (TN) c/o Villa de Mersi Tel. 0461 921863 www.stradavinotrentino.com info@stradavinotrentino.com @VinoDolomiti
STRADA DEI FORMAGGI DELLE DOLOMITI Info available from the Tourist Offices Val di Fiemme - Tel. 0462 241111 Val di Fassa - Tel. 0462 609500 San Martino di Castrozza, Passo Rolle, Primiero e Vanoi Tel. 0439 62407 www.stradadeiformaggi.it info@stradadeiformaggi.it stradadeiformaggi @GustoDolomiti
STRADA DELLA MELA E DEI SAPORI DELLE VALLI DI NON E DI SOLE Via Lorenzoni, 27 - 38023 Cles (TN) Tel. 366 2091556 www.stradadellamela.it info@stradadellamela.it This publication was edited by Trentino Sviluppo S.p.A. Department for Tourism and Promotion in March 2013 Text: Trentino Sviluppo S.p.A. Dipartimento per il Turismo e la Promozione Photos: Fototeca Trentino Sviluppo S.p.A. , Strada del Vino e dei Sapori del Trentino, Strada dei Formaggi delle Dolomiti, Strada della Mela e dei Sapori delle Valli di Non e di Sole, Apt d’Ambito, Pineta Hotel, pg visitfiemme.it, Foto A. Campanile, Orlerimages.com, Active Hotel Olympic, Foto Tonina, Proloco Soraga - Foto G.Bosin, D. Lira, S. Angelani, R. Kiaulehn, R. Magrone, B. Wiesenfarth, C. Baroni, E. Genovesi, F. Faganello, G. Deflorian, G. Zotta, P. Geminiani, R. Jacometti, M. Simonini, G. Montini, U. Visciani, Mariotti Studio Fotografico, G. Torresani, C.C.I.A.A. di Trento. Map print Euroedit srl, Trento Graphics: Prima Pubblicità , Trento Printing: Litotipografia Alcione, Trento
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Getting to Trentino You can reach Trentino from the north or south by rail (Verona-Brenner-Munich line) or the A22 Brenner motorway.
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The nearest airports toTrento are “Dolomiti S. Giacomo” in Bolzano (57 km), the “Valerio Catullo” in Verona (90 km), the “Gabriele d’Annunzio” in Brescia (135 km), the “Marco Polo” in Venice (163 km), the “Orio al Serio” in Bergamo (180 km) and the “Linate” and “Malpensa” airports in Milan (about 250 km).
Local transport includes bus services run by Trentino Trasporti and two branch railways, the Trento-Venice through Valsugana and the Trento-Malé serving Val di Non and Val di Sole.
Trentino Sviluppo S.p.A. Department for Tourism and Promotion Via Romagnosi 11 - 38122 Trento - Italy - booking@visittrentino.it