Charleston Gateway | October, November, December 2011

October, November, December 2011 Priceless

T H E

P R E M I E R

Cobblestones of the Past Winds of War Part IV: War is Hell Crowd Pleaser Fall Candlelight Tours of Homes and Gardens

Spotlight on the Arts Camera Works: Masters in Photography

V I S I T O R

since 1955

G U I D E

C H A R L E S T O N

HARBOR TOURS Rated

11:30 • 1:30 • 3:30

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The Carolina Belle Departs Each Day at

Mary St.

Charleston Visitors Center John St.

TOP VISITOR PICK!

Waterfront Park

Carolina Belle departs from the Charleston Maritime Center

HARBOR TOUR SCHEDULE FEBRUARY & MARCH NOVEMBER thru OCTOBER DAILY DAILY

11:30 am 1:30 pm

11:30 am 1:30 pm 3:30 pm

The Carolina Belle is available for Private Charters, Group Dinner Cruises, and Group Rates. Call our Sales Manager at 843-722-1112 to book your next event!

Come aboard for a relaxing and fascinating harbor cruise!

Enjoy a live-narrated, 90-minute non-stop tour of Charleston Harbor on our air-conditioned, smooth-sailing tour boat, Carolina Belle.

DOLPHIN SIGHTINGS are common and great fun! Over 75 points of interest including upFrequent DOLPHIN sightings! close views of FORT SUMTER, plus the Battery and Patriots Point! Snack bar on board. Buy tickets on our web site or call our ticketing company Zerve.

Stunning views of FORT SUMTER.

Our Harbor Tour is rated by hundreds of past guests!

See unedited customer reviews at www.Zerve.com/HarborTours/Rating.

10 Wharfside Street Charleston, SC 29401 843-722-1112

Advance ticket purchase recommended.

800-979-3370

www.CharlestonHarborTours.com

Contents

October, November, December 2011 Vol. 63 No. 4

FEATURES Spotlight on the Arts 14 Camera Works: Masters in Photography Crowd Pleasers 16 Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens 17 28th Annual MOJA Arts Festival 24 And It’s Free 28 21st Annual Holiday Festival of Lights 29 Charleston City Market Gets an Update 30 Holiday Charleston 37 Magnolia Plantation and Gardens Observation Tower 39 31st Annual Taste of Charleston 60 55th Annual Coastal Carolina Fair What’s in Bloom 20 Nature Walks at Middleton Place What’s Cookin’?

38 She Crab Soup Holidays at Middleton Place

IN EVERY ISSUE Welcome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Shopping Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Dining Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34, 36 Sightseeing Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Calendars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50, 52, 54 Tides. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Downtown Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Area Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 4 www.charlestongateway.com

Lowcountry Backroads 48 Colonial Dorchester State Historic Site Uniquely Charleston 51 Sound of Charleston Cobblestones of the Past 55 Winds of War Part IV: War is Hell

HYMAN’S SEAFOOD Voted Most Popular Seafood Restaurant in the Southeast (Southern Living Magazine Readers Poll Survey – 9 years running!)

APPETIZERS

Fried Scallops 7.95 Clam Strips 4.95 Crab & Shrimp Dip 5.95 Cajun Shrimp 6.95 Stuffed Mushrooms wrapped in Bacon 6.50 Fried Green Tomatoes 5.95 Fried Okra 3.95 Sweet Potato Fries 4.95 Hyman’s Lump Crab Cake 7.75 Carolina Delight - Grit Cake topped with Salmon, Shrimp, Scallop, Oyster or Crab Cake 8.95 Scallop Scampi 7.95 Sauteed Mussels, Buffalo Shrimp, Shrimp & Grits or Salmon & Grits 5.95-6.95 Fried Calamari 4.95 Fried Shrimp & Pups 6.95 Soft Shell Crab - Fried Mkt. Oysters - 1/2 dozen, full dozen (raw or steamed) Mkt. Gator Sausage 5.95

À LA CARTE

X-Large Fresh Steamed Shrimp chilled with Old Bay Seasoning • 9.50-28.95

Grand O penin g All New

Hyman’s Express

20% OFF

FOR THE FISHERMAN

For fish #1, #2, #3 selections change daily to ensure freshness. Specify broiled, fried, Cajun, lightly Cajun, sauteed, Caribbean jerk, or scampi.

Fish #1 9.95 Fish #2 10 to 20 fish to choose from.

12.95 SEE DAILY BOARD Fish #3 15.95 Shrimp 15.95 Oysters Mkt. Calamari 12.95 Buffalo Shrimp 15.95 Carolina Delight - Grit Cake topped with Salmon, Shrimp, Crab Cake, Scallop 18.95 Scallops 16.95 Sauteed Mussels 15.95 Shrimp & Grits or Salmon & Grits 15.95 Captain’s Platter - Scallop, Shrimp, Haddock Fried 18.95 Crispy Flounder (16oz Awesome) 17.95 (equals 3 items on a combo) Hyman’s Lump Crab Cakes (2) 17.95 Large Combination Platter any 3 above 19.95 You Choose any 5 above 30.95 From Any Above any 7 above (for two) 42.95 Soft Shell Crab 18.95 Snow Crab Mkt. Seafood Fettuccine Alfredo/Marinara 16.95 Fish ’n’ Chips (Haddock) 15.95

FOR THE FARM BUOYS

w/purchase of $15 or more at Hyman’s Express only. Chicken Fettuccine Marinara or Alfredo 13.95 Not valid with any other coupons, promos or discounts 16oz Aged Prime Rib 22.95 27.95 Offering limited items from Hyman’s Seafood Surf & Turf or Aaron’s Deli. Located next door to Hyman’s (and many other items as well) HOMEMADE SOUPS $4.25-$5.95 Seafood at 213 Meeting Street PO-BOY SANDWICHES $8.95-$15.95 All Prices Subject to Change Children’s Menu $5.95-$14.95 C omments from the C ritics :

Southern Living Magazine, Readers Poll Survey: Out of 18 states from Delaware to Florida to Texas, Hyman’s rated #1 in the Southeast, 9 years running. Food Channel Network: Listed in Top 5 in “The Best of Seafood” category. Post and Courier ’07: “Hyman’s is part of Charleston as Charleston is part of Hyman’s. A definite must stop.” NY Times: “Great Southern cuisine with impeccable service.” Travel & Leisure: “One of the more fascinating eating establishments in our trip through the Southeast.” Atlanta Journal: “Definitely tops in town. No fancy sauces or the like, just great food at even better prices.” Raleigh News & Observer: “Hyman’s is the exception to the rule that seafood must be pricey to be good – excellent food in a casual atmosphere.” Charlotte Observer: “When in Charleston, you’ve missed out if you don’t find the opportunity to try Hyman’s Seafood & Aaron’s Deli.” Harvard Business School: Hyman’s was used as a case study on how to run a successful service-oriented business. Post & Courier: ★★★★ Food, ★★★★ Value ★★★★ Service. “When a good seafood dinner is in order, there’s no doubt Hyman’s Seafood is the place.” Delta Sky Miles 2006: “One of the top 5 best seafood restaurants in the nation.” RoadFood.com: Top 5 on East Coast. AAA, Mobile Guide, Condé Nast, Frommer’s, Fodor’s, Michelin Guide, G Lonely Planet & Moons Approved.

Expanded dining rooms for a shorter wait time Crab Dip or Shrimp Salad

Free

Be sure to visit Hyman’s Half Shell & Aaron’s Deli next door!

The only thing we guarantee is your 100% satisfaction. No If’s, And’s or But’s!

w/this coupon. Not valid w/any other coupons, promos or discounts.

11am-until • 7 days a week • 215 Meeting St. • 843.723.6000

$5.95 value 1 per every 4 people

Welcome

to C h a r l e s to n There is so much to do in Charleston this time of year, and the cooler temperatures and crystal clear blue skies make walking through the city a pleasure. While you’re out exploring, be sure to stop at one of our local restaurants and enjoy a bowl of She Crab soup; to learn more about this delicious Charleston original, read our “What’s Cookin’?” feature in this issue.

Charleston’s many museums offer a wide variety of exciting and interesting exhibits.

Lovers of the art of photography will want to visit the Gibbes Museum and explore their new exhibit, Camera Works: Master of Photography. Get the details in our “Spotlight on the Arts” feature.

During this season of frivolity, Charleston has dozens of holiday-themed activities.

We have given you some of the highlights in “Holiday Charleston,” and our calendars have many more holiday-themed activities listed.

We are glad you chose to visit Charleston. Our city is the perfect spot for a relaxing vacation. Enjoy our history, delicious food and unique attractions.

Eat, drink and be merry!

Leslie Moore, Editor 6 www.charlestongateway.com

THEATRE

TM

C H A R L E S T O N

13 Theatres 100s of Shows

See world class theatre in the city where American theatre got its start.

Fascinating dramas. Hilarious comedies. Lively musicals.

We’ve got something for everyone!

www.theatrecharleston.com for comprehensive performance schedules and show information. (843) 813-8578

8 www.charlestongateway.com

Announci ng The Charleston Concert Association’s

Botanical Bash A Garden Gala Celebrating 75 years of The World in Performance!

Friday, October 21, 2011 With guest appearance by MOMIX dancers For more information, 843.727.1216 or CharlestonConcerts.org

The Charleston Concert Association

When the festival ends, we play on . . .

MOMIX - Botanica October 22, 2011 3 PM (matinee) & 7 PM

Experience the joy of world-class music and dance !

What’s next on your concert list?

Boston Brass & Brass All-Stars Big Band Holiday Program December 12, 2011 7 PM

For more information: charlestonconcerts.org 843.727.1216

Photo: Nardella Photography, Inc.

Audra McDonald November 10, 2011 7 PM

T H E

PR E M I E R

V I S I TOR

G UI D E

GATEWAY PUBLICATIONS

Senior Account Executive Art Director Editor Editorial Writer

Amanda Kennedy-Colie Sneha Singh Leslie Moore Rebel Sinclair

STRAND MEDIA GROUP Delores Blount Susan Bryant Taylor Nelson Patrick Sullivan Bobby Dalto Wayne Eggleston Sherry Ellerich Patrick Sullivan Accountant Bart Buie CPA, P.A. Administrative Assistant Barbara Leonard Executive Publishers Jim Creel Bill Hennecy Tom Rogers

Publisher Sales & Marketing Director Executive Art Director Photography Director Photographers

Member Charleston Metro Chamber, Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, Charleston Hoteliers Exchange Club, Greater Summerville/Dorchester County Chamber of Commerce, Greater Charleston Hotel & Motel Association

Gateway Publications PO Box 80626 Charleston, SC 29416 Fax 843-225-8864 info@charlestongateway.com www.charlestongateway.com For advertising information

843.224.5865

Charleston Gateway, founded in 1955, is published quarterly and distributed free throughout Charleston and the surrounding area. Copyright 2011, all rights reserved. Repro足duction of any material prepared by Gateway Publications and appearing within this publication is strictly prohibited without express written consent of the publisher.

10 www.charlestongateway.com

Shopping

DIRECTORY

Art Four Green Fields . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Gibbes Museum of Art . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The Preservation Society of Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Books The Preservation Society of Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The Shops of Historic Charleston Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Clothing & Accessories Maggie Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Harbor Specialties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Sarah’s View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Needlework & Crafts Cabbage Row Shoppe . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 It’s a Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 The Little Blue Cottage . . . . . . . . . . . 26 People, Places & Quilts . . . . . . . . . . . 26 The Village Knittery . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Gifts Classic Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Four Green Fields . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Gibbes Museum of Art . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Harbor Specialties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Preservation Society of Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Saints Alive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Sarah’s View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 The Shops of Historic Charleston Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 12 www.charlestongateway.com

Home furnishings & Accessories Geo. C. Birlant & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Main Street Antiques . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 The Shops of Historic Charleston Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Terrace Oaks Antique Mall . . . . . . . . 15 Jewelry Classic Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Filthy Rich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Nice Ice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 The Preservation Society of Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 The Shops of Historic Charleston Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Specialty Citadel Mall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Cupcake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Good Scents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Kites Fly’n Hi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Mount Pleasant Towne Centre . . . . . 13 Northwoods Mall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Toys American Doll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Kapla Tom’s Toys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Kites Fly’n Hi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

F R A N C E S C A’’ S C O L L E C T I O N S

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Spotlight on the Arts

Camera Works: Masters In Photography New Exhibit at The Gibbes Museum of Art Begins October 28 The Gibbes Museum of Art has a new exhibition that will run from October 28, 2011 through January 8, 2012. Camera Works: Masters in Photography, on view in the Rotunda Galleries, features twentieth-century masters of photography selected from the Gibbes permanent collection and local private collections.

Sailing Ship, New Year’s Greetings, 1934

By Margaret Bourke-White (American, 1904-1971) Gelatin silver print on postcard Gift of Mr. Robert W. Marks Image courtesy Gibbes Museum of Art

In the early 20th century, New York-based artist and gallerist Alfred Stieglitz launched a photo journal, Camera Work, to promote the then-novel idea that photography could be an art form rather than simply a documentary medium or a lesser substitute for painting. The exhibition Camera Works features images captured by Stieglitz and his collaborator Clarence White, as well as Berenice Abbott, Alfred Eisenstaedt, Margaret Bourke-White, and other renowned 20th century American artists who embraced and explored the creative possibilities of early photography.

Through careful composition, post-production manipulation, shedding light on new subjects, revealing the beauty of the everyday, or capturing striking patterns in unexpected places, the artists in this early circle of innovators pioneered styles and techniques that bravely exposed the potential of their chosen medium. These photographers figured out how to make a camera work.

Writer Robert Marks, a Charleston native, collected works of this era and donated many of these pieces to the Gibbes in the 1970s. Much like Stieglitz’s initial push to move photography beyond the traditional, this donation expanded the Gibbes’s photograph collection beyond historical portraits, adding true art shots and catalyzing the museum’s enthusiasm for collecting photography. Camera Works: Masters in Photography showcases many of the photographs that Marks and others gave to the museum, as well as photographs of the period borrowed from private collectors.

For more information, visit www.gibbesmuseum.org or call 843-722-2706.

14 www.charlestongateway.com

Largest Selection of Needlepoint Threads and Knitting Yarns in the Lowcountry

Needlepoint, Knitting & More Tues.-Sat. 10-5 • 843-557-0401 www.itsastitch.net 3464 Maybank Hwy., Ste. D & E Johns Island

Be sure to get a FREE copy of

230 stores 25 eateries State of the art theaters and IMAX Citadel Mall I-526 & Sam Rittenberg Blvd.

CitadelMall.net 843.766.8511

for the best downtown and area maps and GREAT SAVINGS!

Crowd Pleaser

Valet Parking Makes Finding A Spot a Breeze!

Parking after 6 pm in downtown Charleston is about to get a lot easier. As of early May this year, the city launched a program to address parking in the Holy City. Four valet stands have been placed around town: two off King Street, at Radcliffe and John Streets; one on Broad Street near East Bay Street; and one off East Bay Street at Cone Street.

Anyone can use the valet service to access Charleston’s great restaurants and entertainment from 6 pm through 12:30 am.

Two local valet services have won contracts to serve the parking public and several restaurants will validate parking when dining in their establishment. For more information, call 843-937-5524.

Northwoods Mall I-26 & Ashley Phosphate at Rivers Ave ShopNorthwoodsMall.com 843.797.3060 Developments of CBL & Associates Properties, Inc.

You never know what’s around the corner at...

TERRACE OAKS

Antique Mall 90+ booths of quality antiques 11,000 sq ft

Mon-Sat 10-5:30 • 843-795-9689 2037 Maybank (Hwy. 700) One mile from Folly Rd.

www.terraceoaksantiques.com www.charlestongateway.com 15

Crowd Pleaser

Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens Thursdays-Sundays, Sept. 22-Oct. 23

Take a stroll under the lights of Charleston’s doorways during The Preservation Society of Charleston’s 35th Annual Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens. A different part of Charleston is on tour each weekend, featuring some of America’s outstanding collections of 18th, 19th and 20th century architecture. Tickets are $45 per person for each evening of the tour or special weekend tickets and group rates are available. To purchase tickets or for more information, call 843-722-4630 or visit www.preservationsociety.org.

16 www.charlestongateway.com

Spartina ~ Vera Bradley ~ Tyler Candles Buckhead Betties ~ Scout Custom Embroidery & Engraving on premises FAST TURNAROUND! 190 East Bay Street • 843-722-3722 Mon-Sat 10-6 • Sun 11-5 • Extended summer hours www.HarborSpecialtiesCharleston.com

Crowd Pleaser 28th Annual MOJA

Arts Festival

Beginning on September 29 and running through October 9, Charleston’s MOJA Arts Festival celebrates its 28th year with an exciting lineup of events. Highlighting African-American and Caribbean arts, this event has been named one of the Southeast Tourism Society’s Top 20 events. Nearly half of MOJA’s events are admission free, with the remainder offered at modest ticket prices ranging from $5 to $35. The wide range of events include visual arts, classical music, dance, gospel, jazz, poetry, R&B music, storytelling, theatre, children’s activities, traditional crafts, ethnic food and much more. For tickets and more information, call 843724-7305 or visit www.mojafestival.com.

ANTIQUE SHIPMENT JUST ARRIVED

Largest & Finest Selection of

Antiques

in the Southeast for over 89 years

Fine Antiques & Gifts Since 1922

191 King St., Charleston, SC 29401 843.722.3842 • www.birlant.com Exclusive Makers of the Original Charleston Battery Bench®

www.charlestongateway.com 17

Needlepoint 13 Broad St. • At the foot of State St. 843-722-1528 • Charleston, SC 29401 www.cabbagerowshoppe.com

Complimentary Bottled Water at

73 Broad St. • 843.725.5483 A Ministry of St. Michael’s Church

Discover

BROAD STREET

Broad Street, downtown’s major thoroughfare, has always been an important street bearing public buildings, businesses, banking houses, law offices, taverns and private residences.

The “four corners of law,” situated at the corners of Broad and Meeting Streets, represent four laws. City Hall, c. 1800, represents municipal law, the County Court House, previously known as the State House, c. 1753, represents state law, the Post Office, c. 1896, represents federal law and St. Michael’s Episcopal Church, c. 1761, represents God’s law.

S U B S C R I P T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N Please send _____ copies of the January 2012 issue of Charleston Gateway. Enclosed is $3.75 per copy.

Please send the next 4 issues of Charleston Gateway, beginning with the January 2012 issue. Enclosed is $12.00 for the next 4 issues.

NAME ADDRESS CITY PHONE

S TAT E Z I P

Mail check to: P.O. Box 1389, Murrells Inlet, SC 29576 • 843-626-8911

18 www.charlestongateway.com

Experience Our Finest Historic cHarleston Foundation

Aiken-Rhett house, c. 1820

nAthAniel Russell house, c. 1808

Charleston’s Most Intact Antebellum Mansion

Charleston’s Grandest Neoclassical House Museum

48 Elizabeth St. • 843.723.1159 • Daily: 10-5pm, Sun: 2-5pm

the new mARket shop

51 Meeting St. • 843.724.8481 • Daily: 10-5pm, Sun: 2-5pm

of

histoRic chARleston FoundAtion

}

Stop into our New Market Shop and take a piece of Charleston history home with you.

Jewelry E Reproduction Porcelain E Books E Glassware E Candles E Soaps Food E Ornaments E Prints E Note Cards E Mottahedah China 188 Meeting Street HourS: Daily, 9:30 - 7pM

www.historiccharleston.org (No sales tax)

What’s in Bloom

Nature Walks Return to the Gardens at Middleton Place Enjoy an hour long tour through parts of the gardens at Middleton Place not typically open to the public. Join an experienced Nature Walk guide to explore the flora and fauna around the Cypress Lake, Ashley River and the flooded rice field. Binoculars are provided to help spot water birds, birds of prey, alligators and other reptiles.

Learn about the unique Low Country ecosystem and its marshlands with special emphasis on the trees, plants and grasses.

Nature Walks are offered Saturdays at 10 am in the fall. Tour space is limited. Guided Nature Walks are complimentary with general admission ($25 for adults, $15 for students and $10 for children 6-13). Please contact Stephanie Coyle at 843-266-7470 for details.

The Gardens, House Museum and Plantation Stableyards at Middleton Place are owned and operated by the Middleton Place Foundation, a 501(C)(3) not-for-profit trust established in 1974, that also manages the Edmondston-Alston House Museum at 21 East Battery in downtown Charleston. The Foundation’s mission is to sustain the highest levels of preservation and interpretation for the National Historic Landmark rich in classical and romantic garden design, horticulture and history.

For additional information, visit www.middletonplace.org or call 843-556-6020.

Camera Works Masters in Photography October 28, 2011 – January 8, 2012 This exhibition features twentieth-century masters of photography selected from the Gibbes permanent collection and local private collections including works by Alfred Stieglitz, Margaret Bourke-White, Alfred Eisenstaedt, and many more.

Hands of Georgia O’Keefe, No. 26, 1919 by Alfred Stieglitz (American, 1864 – 1946). Gelatin silver print. Gift of Mr. Robert W. Marks.

135 Meeting Street 843.722.2706 www.gibbesmuseum.org

Discover

The Market

Tom’s Toys

125 Market Street Between King & Meeting Sts

843-720-8943 www.kaplaus.com

Clothes & Accessories to fit American Girl® & Bitty Baby® 129 Market St. • 843.722.5299

On Market St. between King & Meeting Sts.

americandollshoppe.com

Classic Charleston Gifts & Gallery KITES • WINDSOCKS • TOYS FLAGS • PUZZLES • STUNT KITES 40 N. Market St. • Charleston RAINBOW MARKET • DOWNTOWN

(843) 577-3529

Reservations Required

843.345.9714 or www.PubStroll.com

Tap into Charleston’s Bizarre “A tour you will take every visit...”

P E R F U M E RY Original Tea Olive Perfume Rainbow Market • 40 N. Market St. 843.723.6933 22 www.charlestongateway.com

G-2 Gate Jewelry Exclusive Downtown Dealers for Shelia, Cat’s Meow & Annette Lowe 71 South Market St. • 843.722.1701 Corner of S. Market & Church • Locally Owned

Charleston’s Historic Market is one of the area’s must see attractions. Having survived a tumultuous past, the Market has outlasted tornadoes, hurricanes, a major earthquake and devastation by fires and Civil War bombardment. Over 200 years ago, a wealthy Charleston family willed land to the town of Charleston to be used as a public market, with the stipulation that the property revert to the family if used for any other purpose. To this day, the charming Charleston City Market is a popular destination for visitors and locals alike.

Market Hall faces Meeting Street as the main entrance to four blocks of openair buildings. One-of-a-kind shops and restaurants have something for every taste.

Charleston’s famous carriage tours also depart from the area.

Filthy Rich

TM

Celebrity jewelry & gifts

Crowd Pleasers

A nd I t ’ s F r ee !

Enjoy swings, fishing, and watching regattas at Waterfront Park Alhambra Hall Park in Mount Pleasant offers a great view of Charleston and shows why she is known as the “Holy City”

Fort Moultrie Visitor Center on Sullivan’s Island – 171 years of U.S. seacoast defense

Charles Pinckney National Historic Site in Mount Pleasant

Gateway Walk – Start at St. John’s Lutheran on Archdale Street, walk to King and Meeting, cross and end in Circular Congregational and St. Philip’s Churchyards

Citadel Dress Parades are mid Sept.-Apr. on Fridays, usually at 3:45 p.m.

The Karpeles Manuscript Library Museum preserves historical handwritten documents 24 www.charlestongateway.com

Fort Sumter Visitor Education Center in Liberty Square next to the South Carolina Aquarium

Angel Oak, said to be the oldest living tree east of the Mississippi, is on Johns Island

Four Corners of Law at Broad & Meeting: • St. Michael’s Episcopal Church (God) • U.S. Post Office (Federal) • Charleston County Court House (County) • City Hall (City)

Tour the art galleries in the French Quarter John Rivers Communications Museum houses a large collection of antique communications equipment Historic Charleston Foundation Preservation Center on Meeting Street Farmers Markets are Saturdays in Marion Square (Mar.-Dec.) and Tuesdays in Mount Pleasant on Coleman Blvd. www.charlestongateway.com 25

Discover

Historic SUMMERVILLE

In a world with too many national chain stores and not enough of the independent, mom and pop, boutique stores of days gone by, Summerville, with its small-town values and historic roots, does not disappoint. Only 18 miles from Charleston via I-26 to Exit 199-A or Hwy. 61 past the Gardens, you’ll find the historic village of Summerville.

The “Flowertown in the Pines” offers unique boutiques, ladies & children’s clothing, gifts, toys, restaurants, antiques, fabric, jewelry and much more!

The Little Blue Cottage Summerville Beads For the everyday beader

Fabrics, Books, Patterns, Quilts & more

Charleston ~ 843.937.9333 Summerville ~ 843.871.8872 www.ppquilts.com

A ladies’ boutique of simple elegance 130 S. Main St., Summerville 843.871.6745 • maggieroseinc.com

314 N. Cedar St., Summerville 843.875.9066 • Open Sundays

www.thelittlebluecottage.com Unique Gifts for Body, Home & Garden Crabtree & Evelyn Vera Bradley, Brighton

117 E. Richardson Ave. Summerville, SC

843.832.3800

843.261.9276 102 Central Avenue Summerville, SC 29483 thevillageknittery.com

Main Street Antiques Antiques, Consignment & Unique Gifts

65+ Fine Craft Artists

Warehouse now open for your treasure hunting!

117-A “Short” Central Avenue, Summerville FourGreenFieldsGallery.com · (843) 261-7680

200-A North Main St., Summerville 843.879.9529

Voted Best Gift Shop in Summerville!

26 www.charlestongateway.com

The City’s Largest Collection of Architecture & History Books Prints ~ Maps ~ Jewelry ~ Gifts Sweetgrass Baskets Handcrafted by local artisans 147 King Street 843-722-4630 www.preservationsociety.org Visit our shop for unique Charleston Holiday gifts “Christmas Greens”

by Elizabeth O’Neill Verner www.charlestongateway.com 27

Crowd Pleaser

21st Annual Holiday Festival of Lights November 11-January 1 James Island County Park

Find Holiday magic in the millions of sparkling lights and hundreds of displays at the Holiday Festival of Lights. Take the three-mile driving tour and experience the wonders of the season as you park your car, stretch your legs and journey through Santa’s Village and Winter Wonderland. Or join us on Wednesday, November 9 or Thursday, November 10 at 6:30 pm for the Holiday Festival of Lights Fun Run & Walk which has newly expanded to two nights for 2011.

Started in 1990, with only 18 light displays, today there are over two million lights and 600 light displays. Visiting the Holiday Festival of Lights has become a Lowcountry tradition for many locals and visitors alike. James Island County Park is located at 871 Riverland Drive, only a short drive from downtown. Hours are 5:30-10 pm SundayThursday and 5:30-11 pm Friday & Saturday. Admission is $12 per car. For more information, call 843-795-4386.

28 www.charlestongateway.com

Crowd Pleaser

Charleston City Market Gets an Update

Visitors will be pleased with the new $5.5 million dollar renovation to Charleston’s City Market. Buildings dating back to the 1800s have been spruced and updated, but the changes to the Great Hall are some of the most noticeable.

The Hall has eleven more tenants than it did before the renovations, bringing the total to 20. Two new restaurants and new merchants give shoppers more options, and skylights and new lighting along the length of the air-conditioned building make it more airy and show off the architectural details.

The market land was given to Charleston in 1788 by Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, a delegate to the Constitutional Convention, with the provision it always be used for a public market. There is a common misconception the market was used to sell slaves before the Civil War, but it was not. Today, most of Charleston’s more than 4 million visitors per year visit the market.

From Gospel to Gershwin Experience the sounds that define Charleston’s history – gospel, Gershwin, jazz, music of the Civil War & more Live concerts at Circular Congregational Church 150 Meeting Street at 7 pm October 7, 14, 21, 27 November 3, 11, 16, 18 December 2, 8, 15, 30 Adults $28 Seniors/Students $25 Children 4-11 $16

Box Office: 843.270.4903 Tickets at Charleston Area Visitor Centers www.soundofcharleston.com

www.charlestongateway.com 29

Crowd Pleaser

H o l i day C h a r l e s to n

The holidays in Charleston are an unforgettable experience. Magical lights and decorations transform the city, and there is so much you can do to celebrate the season. Here are a few highlights of the holiday festivities.

30 www.charlestongateway.com

11/26 Experience A Plantation Christmas at Magnolia Plantation and Gardens with a tour of Drayton family home decorated with traditional greenery, candles poinsettia and ribbons. For tour information, call 800-367-3571.

12/3 & 10 The Edmondston-Alston house, on 21 East Battery, will be open two Friday evenings, December 2 and 9, from 6:30-8:30 pm, for continuous candlelight tours. Christmas 1860, A Candlelight Tour is an experience not to be missed.

Call 843-722-7171 for information or visit www.edmondstonalston.com 12/3-4 For the 28th consecutive year, Drayton Hall presents African-American spiritual music in concert. One of the longest-running performances of its kind in the Lowcountry, these popular annual concerts have become a Charleston tradition as they offer a rare opportunity for visitors to gather at the oldest unrestored plantation house in America and experience music that could have been heard centuries ago in the surrounding fields and praise houses. For times and ticket information, call 843-769-2630 or visit www.draytonhall.org 12/3 Thousands of spectators line the route from Mt. Pleasant to Charleston to witness the Annual Charleston Parade of Boats from 5 pm to 7:30 pm each year.

The parade also includes a spectacular fireworks display shot from the harbor at 6:45 pm. For more info on the parade and details about how you can enter your own boat, call 843-724-7305 or visit www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

12/5 What better way to enjoy the most wonderful time of the year than taking in the sights and sounds of the Annual Charleston Christmas Parade? The

parade begins at 2 pm, starting at the intersection of Calhoun and Meeting Streets, and proceeding down King Street to Broad Street to Lockwood Boulevard.

This three-hour parade includes many bands and floats, and is sure to get you in the Christmas spirit! For more info, please call 843-720-1981.

12/9-18 Come witness Charleston’s longest running holiday show, The Charleston Christmas Special. Enjoy a live heart-warming two-hour musical suited for whole family presented live at the Charleston Music Hall downtown. For times and ticket info, call 843-416-8453 or visit www.bradandjennifermoranz.com.

12/15-16 See historic Middleton Place by candlelight, torchlight and moonlight at the Middleton Place Grand Illumination.

This special Christmas celebration introduces holiday traditions of the 18th and 19th century. End the evening on the Greensward enjoying seasonal refreshments around a warm fire. Tours run from 6-8 pm. For reservations and additional info, call 843-556-6020 or visit www.middletonplace.org.

12/31 Celebrate a Happy New Year Charleston in Marion Square and surrounding locations. The program offers a free, family-oriented alternative program to celebrate the New Year in Charleston which includes comedy, dance, many forms of music, street entertainment, children’s activities and so much more.

Hours are 4 pm-10:30 pm. For more info, call 843-724-7305 or visit www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

Harbor Tour & Carriage Tour COMBO TICKET Adults: $33 for one LOW PRICE! Kids 4-11: $20

Call either location & ask for the

Kids under 4: FREE

Harbor Tour & Carriage Tour COMBO TICKET! CHARLESTON

HARBOR TOURS

Harbor Tours depart from the Charleston Maritime Center, 10 Wharfside St., approx. one block south of the South Carolina Aquarium.

FREE PARKING AT THE CHARLESTON MARITIME CENTER Buy Tickets at Chas Harbor Tours!

CHARLESTON HARBOR TOURS

Tours depart DAILY at 11:30 • 1:30 • 3:30.

Come aboard for a relaxing and fascinating harbor cruise! Live-narrated, 90-minute, non-stop tour of Charleston Harbor on our smooth-sailing tour boat Carolina Belle. DOLPHIN SIGHTINGS are common and great fun to watch! Over 75 points of interest including up-close views of FORT SUMTER, plus the Battery and Patriots Point! Snack bar on board.

Private charters and group dinner cruises available.

Advance purchase recommended. Buy COMBO tickets on our web site, at the boat, or call our ticketing company Zerve. FREE PARKING at the Maritime Cntr.

www.CharlestonHarborTours.com

800-979-3370

PALMETTO CARRIAGE WORKS

OPEN DAILY 9am to 5pm.

Tickets: 40 N. Market St. (Rainbow Shops)

Charleston’s most popular tour! A carriage tour of Charleston is a blend of knowledge, wit, humor, and history. Your one-hour CARRIAGE TOUR will travel 25 to 30 blocks of Charleston’s famous historic downtown district. You will see houses, gardens, mansions, churches, and parks. Your knowledgeable guide will share fascinating stories and facts about the buildings, history, architecture, flora and people of Charleston. Easy access carriage loading ramp; just step in and out.

GET 3 HOURS OF FREE DOWNTOWN PARKING BUY TICKETS at Palmetto Carriage!

Carriage Tours depart from the Palmetto “RED BARN” at 8 Guignard St. Buy tickets at our shop at 40 N. Market St. (Rainbow Shops).

GPS setting: 8 Anson St.

www.CarriageTour.com

843-723-8145

S A I L I N G

C H A R L E S T O N

H A R B O R

THE

Schooner

PRIDE Rated: by hundreds of past guests!

See reviews at Zerve.com/SailThePride/Rating

You’ve seen her gliding across Charleston harbor.

It’s time that you experienced the Pride too!

Come aboard the PRIDE – an 84-foot Tall Ship that sails with the wind and tides, making every cruise unique. Rated one of the ‘Top 10 things to do in Charleston’ by Southern Living and Trip Advisor, and one of the ‘Top 10 Sunset Cruises’ by Coastal Living.

Sailing on the PRIDE is an experience you won’t soon forget. Daytime cruises offer spectacular views and frequent dolphin sightings; sunset cruises add a sun-kissed glow and a warm, romantic ambiance.

Because she sails within the shelter of the harbor, the PRIDE glides smoothly across the water. If the winds

are calm, her quiet engines move her along nicely. The Afternoon Dolphin Cruises and Evening Sunset Sails depart DAILY from the Aquarium Wharf near the SC Aquarium.

Buy tickets on our web site or call Zerve, our ticketing company.

Tickets also available at: Charleston Harbor Tours 10 Wharfside Street Private charters and

DOLPHIN sightings are common!

group rates available.

Call 843-722-1112.

Cruises fill quickly; advance purchase is strongly recommended.

800-979-3370

www.schoonerpride.com

Hap p Chi y Hour ldre Beve n’s Men rage u Serv Day ice s Op e Dre ss C n ode

vatio n Price Rese r

D I R E C TO RY

s

Dining

Meals

Seafood or 843-723-1151 Lowcountry

$$

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LD

Y Y FS 7

843-720-2121

Italian

$$

S

LD

N Y FS 7 NC

843-723-5665

Casual Seafood

$$

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LD

Y Y FS 7

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843-766-1644

American

$$

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LD

N Y FS 7

C

41 South Market St., Downtown Hwy. 17N, 1 block north of Towne Centre, Mt. Pleasant 145 Wapoo Creek Dr., James Island

843-853-2900 843-884-1617 843-795-1963

Seafood

$$

S

LD

Y Y FS 7

C

433 King St., Downtown 664D Long Point Rd., Mt. Pleasant

843-853-8181 843-856-7080

Dessert, Cupcakes

$

MN Dessert N N NS Sat C

A.W. Shuck’s

35 Market St., Downtown

Bocci’s Italian Restaurant 158 Church St., Downtown

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.

99 South Market St., Downtown

California Dreaming

1 Ashley Point Dr., Charleston

Phone

Type of Food

C

The Charleston Crab House

Cupcake

Gilligan’s Seafood Restaurant

14 N. Market St., Downtown 1475 Long Grove Dr., Mt. Pleasant 160 Main Rd., Johns Island 219 St. James Ave., Goose Creek 3852 Ladson Rd., Ladson

843-853-2244 843-849-2244 843-766-2244 843-818-2244 843-821-2244 Local Seafood $$

N

LD

Hyman’s Seafood

$843-723-6000 Casual Seafood $$

N

LD

215 Meeting St., Downtown

Average Price ¢ Under $5 C $ Under $10 NC $$ $11-15 $$$ $16-20 D $$$$ $21 & up

Dress Code Casual Nice Casual (No jeans, T-shirts, cut-offs) Dressy (Jacket required)

34 www.charlestongateway.com

Y Y FS 7

C

N Y FS 7

C

cont’d on pg. 36

Reservations Beverages Not Accepted NS No Alcohol Suggested FS Full Service Required WB Wine & Beer Not Required/ Accepted CA Call Ahead N S R NR

B L D BR

Meals Breakfast Lunch Dinner Brunch

Local Craft Brews • Full Service Bar

Fresh Made Pasta • Italian Specialties • Pizza

158 Church Street • Downtown Market 843.720.2121 • www.boccis.com Lunch & Dinner Daily

Linguard

Market Street

State Street Tommy Condon’s

Church Street

Bocci’s

Cumberland Street

A.W. Shuck’s

Tommy Condon’s Authentic Irish Pub

A.W. Shuck’s

Lowcountry Seafood

Bocci’s

Pizza & Italian Specialties

Large Groups & Private Rooms Available

145 Calhoun St., Downtown

Middleton Place Restaurant

Hap p Chi y Hour ldre Beve n’s Men rage u Serv Day ice s Op en Dre ss C ode

vatio n Rese r

Mama Kim’s

Price

D I R E C TO RY

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Dining

Meals

$$$

N

LD

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Lowcountry $$Cuisine $$$ R

LD

N Y FS 7 NC

Phone

Type of Food

843-577-7177

Korean, Japanese

C

Ashley River Rd. (Hwy. 61), Charleston

843-556-6020

235 East Bay St., Downtown

LD M843-737-4085 Irish/American $$$ NR Sun BR Y Y FS F C

Molly Darcy’s Traditional Irish Pub & Grill SpiritLine Dinner Cruise

Departs from Patriots Point, Mt. Pleasant 843-722-2628

Sticky Fingers

235 Meeting St., Charleston 341 Johnnie Dodd Blvd., Mt. Pleasant 1200 N. Main St., Summerville

Tommy Condon’s

Upscale Gourmet

$$$$ R

843-853-7427 843-856-7427 Ribs, Wings & $843-871-7427 Barbecue $$$ N

D

FN N FS Sat NC

LD

Y Y FS 7

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LD

American, Irish

$$

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Y Y FS 7

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Ice Cream, 159 Church St., Downtown 843-772-6665 Coffee, Citadel Mall Food Court, 2070 Sam 843-556-7708 Breakfast & Rittenberg Blvd., Ste. 552, West Ashley Lunch

$

BL N Dessert N Y NS 7

C

160 Church St., Downtown

843-577-3818

Wholly Cow Ice Cream

Average Price ¢ Under $5 C $ Under $10 NC $$ $11-15 $$$ $16-20 D $$$$ $21 & up

Dress Code Casual Nice Casual (No jeans, T-shirts, cut-offs) Dressy (Jacket required)

36 www.charlestongateway.com

Reservations Beverages Not Accepted NS No Alcohol Suggested FS Full Service Required WB Wine & Beer Not Required/ Accepted CA Call Ahead N S R NR

B L D BR

Meals Breakfast Lunch Dinner Brunch

Crowd Pleaser

Magnolia Plantation & Gardens Observation Tower

Take a walk to the top of Magnolia Plantation & Gardens 40 foot high Wildlife Observation Tower for a bird’s eye view of the marshes, rivers and beautiful landscape.

The refurbished tower is now open and has three different levels that overlook the far side of the Camellia Garden near the Ashley River. Admission to the Observation Tower is free with basic admission. For more information or tickets, call 843-571-1266 or visit www.magnoliaplantation.com.

www.charlestongateway.com 37

What’s Cookin’?

She crab soup

No visit to the Charleston area is complete without sampling a bowl of creamy She Crab soup. A cross between bisque and chowder, this delicious Lowcountry original is a well-loved favorite with roots reaching back to colonial days.

Culinary historian John Martin Taylor, author of Hoppin’ John’s Lowcountry Cooking, credits the Scottish settlers who arrived in the Carolinas in the early 1700s with bringing their famous seafood bisque recipe called “partan-bree,” a crab and rice soup, to the area.

The addition of the crab roe, or crab eggs, is credited to William Deas, a butler and a cook to R. Goodwyn Rhett, mayor of Charleston. According the local legend, William Howard Taft (1857-1930), 27th president of the United States, was being “wined and dined” by Mayor Rhett at his home. The exact date seems to be lost in history, as President Taft visited the Rhetts in their home, the John Rutledge House Inn, several times between 1908 and 1912. Supposedly, the Rhetts asked their butler to “dress up” the pale crab soup they usually served. The butler added orange-hued crab eggs to give color and improve the flavor, thus inventing the Charleston delicacy know as She Crab Soup. whatscookingamerica.net

She Crab Soup

(Makes approximately 4 servings) This recipe was adapted from Charleston Receipts and is attributed to Mrs. Henry Church.

Please note that only female crabs with the roe on the inside may be used, as crabs with roe on the outside are illegal to harvest. Chopped boiled egg yolks may be substituted for roe, but should be crumbled into the bottom of the soup plate.

1 tbsp butter, unsalted 1 qt milk 1/2 c heavy cream, whipped 1 tsp onion juice (may substitute lemon juice) 1/4 tsp mace

1/4 tsp pepper 1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp flour 2 c white crab meat and crab roe (eggs) 1/2 tsp salt

4-6 tbsp dry sherry paprika, and or fresh parsley (to garnish)

Bring water in the bottom of a double boiler to a boil, reduce heat so that water barely simmers and make sure that the amount of water does not touch the bottom of the top of the double boiler. Melt butter in the top of a double boiler and blend with the flour until smooth. Add the milk gradually, stirring constantly. Add the crab meat and roe and all seasonings except sherry and cook slowly, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes. To serve, place a tablespoon of warmed sherry in the bottom of each individual soup bowl.

Add soup and top with a dollop of whipped cream. Sprinkle with parsley and/or paprika.

38 www.charlestongateway.com

Crowd Pleaser

31st Annual Taste of Charleston

October 7-9 Iron Chef Competition – Culinary Institute of Charleston’s Palmer Campus, October 7 Taste of the Arts on Gallery Row – various galleries downtown, October 8 Main Event – Boone Hall Plantation, October 8 & 9

Join the Charleston Restaurant Association and Southern Living magazine as they present the Southern Living Taste of Charleston 2011. Being held at historic Boone Hall Plantation in Mount Pleasant, the main event will take place on Saturday, October 8 and Sunday, October 9, 2011.

This celebration of Lowcountry cuisine will feature 50 of Charleston’s top casual and fine dining restaurants serving sample size portions of their signature dishes along with beer and wine. Activities include live entertainment from the main stage, the legendary Waiters’ Race, Children’s Area and Beer Garden featuring over 40 craft and specialty beers. The Southern Living area will feature editor appearances, editorial-inspired vignettes, demonstrations, giveaways and more. Earlier events include the Iron Chef Competition at the Culinary Institute of Charleston’s Palmer Campus on October 7 from 6-9 pm and Taste of the Arts on Gallery Row event on October 8 from 6 pm-8 pm held at various art galleries throughout the downtown area. For tickets or more information, visit www.charlestonrestaurantassociation.com or call 843-452-6088.

www.charlestongateway.com 39

SightseeingD I R E C T O R Y CHARLESTON VISITOR RECEPTION & TRANSPORTATION CENTER 375 Meeting St. Open 8:30am-5pm daily. 843-853-8000.

Edisto Chamber of Commerce P.O. Box 206, Edisto Island, SC 29438.

843-869-3867. Toll free 888-333-2781. eichamber@aol.com. www.edistochamber.com MOUNT PLEASANT/ISLE OF PALMS VISITOR CENTER 99 Harry M. Hallman Jr. Blvd. Open 9am-5pm daily. 843-849-9172.

SUMMERVILLE VISITOR CENTER 402 N. Main St. (Hwy. 17A). 843-8738535. www.visitsummerville.com.

TOURS & ATTRACTIONS Audubon Center at Beidler Forest The Lowcountry’s “real swamp” experience!! Francis Beidler Forest contains the largest virgin stand of Baldcypress/ Tupelo Gum swamp forest in the world.

1000-year old trees, abundant native wildlife abound in this untouched Audubon Society sanctuary. Boardwalk trail, or canoeing in season. Tues-Sun, 9-5. 843462-2150. www.beidlerforest.com. 336 Sanctuary Road, Harleyville, SC 29448.

CHARLESTON GHOST & DUNGEON WALKING TOUR/ Bulldog Tours This is the tour filmed for The Travel Channel’s America’s Most Haunted Places!

Explore the streets, alleyways, cemeteries, churches, and pre-revolutionary dungeon!

1 1/2 hour walking tour, nightly at 7 & 40 www.charlestongateway.com

“be st v t o -cI our ted ty pap co er M 20 p 10 aN y”

ENJOY tales of Horror, terror, debaucHery &

Torture!

as seeN oN tHe travel cHaNNel’s “aMerIca’s

most

HauNted places!”

Charleston’s Most Haunted Building

;

;

8pm & 10pm Nightly

Charleston’s Oldest Graveyard Tour 7:30 & 9:30pm Nightly

;

MeaNwHIle, IN a LESS scarIer tIMe aNd place...

Charleston’s uncensoredTour ;

;

7pm & 9pm Nightly

;

Visit a Pre-Revolutionary dungeon

;

;

7pm, 8pm, 9pm, 10pm Nightly

Charleston

strolls walk with history o siNCE 1979 FOR RESERVATIONS 843-766-2080 CALL www.charlestonstrolls.com

40 NortH Market st. cHarlestoN, sc 29401 www.bulldogtours.coM

8 6 8 7

“You Must See It!”

- Claudia H.

D

rayton Hall, circa 1738, is the oldest unrestored plantation house in America that is open to the public. Includes: • Visitor-Acclaimed House Tour • African-American Programs • Landscape Tour on DVD • Marsh and River Walks • African-American Cemetery • Lowcountry Museum Shop Visit our website for new hours and tour times.

Drayton Hall

mor e than a house .

3380 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29414 843.769.2600 www.draytonhall.org ®

9pm. Resv. required. $2 off each adult w/ ad. Credit cards accepted. 40 N. Market St. 9am-10pm. 843-722-TOUR.

11:30, 1:30, and 3:30, Feb-Nov. Tickets and departure from Charleston Maritime Center, 10 Wharfside St. 843-722-1112 (DS, MC, V). Book online at www. charlestonharbortours.com or 800-9793370. Local 843-722-1112. Available for private charter.

CHARLESTON GHOST & GRAVEYARD WALKING TOUR/ Bulldog Tours An exclusive opportunity to walk inside the gates of one of Charleston’s oldest graveyards after dark. When all the other tours are looking in, you’ll be on the inside. 1 1/2 hour walking tour, nightly at 7:30 & 9:30pm. Resv. required. $2 off each adult w/ad. Credit cards accepted.

40 N. Market St. 843-722-TOUR.

CHARLESTON Riverdogs A night at “The Joe” is perfect for family fun! Come see the future Yankees play at Joseph P. Riley, Jr. Park downtown. Fri. night fireworks, Sat. giveaways, Charlie T. RiverDog. Fun is good! 843-577-DOGS (3647). www.riverdogs.com.

Charleston Harbor Tours Aboard the Carolina Belle Enjoy a live-narrated “Harbor of History Tour” aboard the Carolina Belle. You’ll see 75 points of interest including Ft. Sumter, Ravenel Bridge, the “Battery,” Patriots Point and the “Holy City” skyline. This non-stop tour departs daily at

Charleston Strolls Walk with history Featured in the New York Times, this two hour walking tour is the best way to see the historic district. Enjoy famous landmarks, antebellum mansions, quaint alleys, & hidden gardens. $18 per adult, 7-12 $10. Daily, 10am. Departs from

42 www.charlestongateway.com

Mills House Hotel (corner of Meeting & Queen). Resv. 843-766-2080.

CHARLESTON’S FINEST HISTORIC TOURS See Charleston like you’ve never seen it before! For the complete Charleston experience, ask for our “Tour C” combination Historic City at 10:30am and Magnolia Plantation at 12:30pm, the #1 tour value in Charleston! New Tour: Charleston Tea Plantation Tour. Call for availability. New: All tours include admission to Powder Magazine at your leisure.

Free downtown pickup. www.historictoursofcharleston.com. 843-577-3311.

If you can only take one tour...

This Is It!

THE DARK SIDE OF CHARLESTON WALKING TOUR/ Bulldog Tours An uncensored look—full of corruption, crime, torture, scandal, and sordid affairs.

Charleston’s only uncensored tour. Adults only. 1 1/2 hr. walking tour, nightly at 8 & 10pm. Resv. required. $2 off each adult w/ad. Credit cards accepted. 40 N. Market St. 843-722-TOUR. HAUNTED JAIL TOUR/Bulldog Tours Tour the Old City Jail, which housed some of Charleston’s most infamous criminals, 19th c. pirates & Civil War prisoners. 45 min. tour. 40 N Market St. Resv. required. $2 off each adult w/ ad. 7, 8, 9, & 10pm nightly. Credit cards accepted. 843-722-TOUR. Palmetto Carriage Works The oldest carriage company in the city, our tour guides have been driving carriages longer than anyone else. We offer free parking at our front door, an easy loading platform and 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Experience value, and a guarantee! Come tour with us! 843-723-8145. www.palmettocarriage.com.

See Charleston like you’ve never seen it before!

Combine our 10:30 am Historic City Tour with our 12:30 pm Magnolia Plantation and Gardens Tour, for the .00

9

$ nt on discour “C” Tou age Pack

#1 TOUR VALUE in Charleston

www.charlestongateway.com 43

Schooner Pride – Charleston’s Tall Ship Marvel at the Holy City’s unique skyline as we sail by the forts, going where history was made. Listen to the wind filling the sails, see dolphins frolicking, and watch magnificent colors of a Low country sunset. Sail aboard the “Pride” for an afternoon Dolphin Sail or a Sunset Sail – a unique experience! Book online at www.schoonerpride.com or call 800979-3370 or 843-722-1112. Available for private charter.

THE SOUND OF CHARLESTON “From Gospel to Gershwin” Live concerts featuring music that defines Charleston’s history – gospel, Gershwin, Civil War campsongs, jazz, light classics & more, at Circular Congregational Church, 150 Meeting St. Adults $28, Seniors, Students & Military $25, Children $16. See dates in calendar or call 843-270-4903. Tickets at area Visitor Centers or online at www.soundofcharleston.com.

SOUTH CAROLINA AQUARIUM With more to explore every day, visit Charleston’s #1 family attraction! Get up close to sharks, river otters, loggerhead turtles, a rare albino alligator and Atlantic stingrays. Don’t miss daily dive shows and interactive activities. Open daily. www.scaquarium.org. 843-720-1990.

44 www.charlestongateway.com

Theatre Charleston See a show tonight! Theatre Charleston, a non-profit organization of the area’s leading local theatres, tells you what’s playing when and where. Visit www.theatrecharleston.com.

Walk Charleston Pub walks, Sunrise tours, Civil War programs, custom itineraries, and more! WalkCharleston.com offers a variety of tours covering many aspects of Charleston’s rich history. We are a consortium of independent licensed interpreters. Guides develop and deliver their original presentations. Experience historic Charleston with those that love her the most! www.WalkCharleston.com.

843-345-9714.

Historic Buildings & MUSEUMS THE Charleston MUSEUM John & Meeting Sts. America’s Oldest Museum, 1773. SC social & natural history. Mon.-Sat. 9-5, Sun. 1-5. Adults $10, Children 3-12 $5. Under 3 free.

Combo museum & house tickets available: 1 site $10, 2 sites $16, 3 sites $22.

City Hall Gallery City Hall. Broad & Meeting Streets, c.

1801. Council Chamber contains John Trumbull portrait of George Washington and others.

dock Street Theatre 135 Church St. Opened Feb. 12, 1736.

First building in America designed solely for theatrical use. Twice burned & rebuilt.

843-720-3968.

GIBBES MUSEUM OF ART 135 Meeting St. Charleston history as seen through painting, miniature portraiture, sculpture, photographs and more.

Special exhibitions offered throughout the year. Tues-Sat 10-5 and Sun 1-5. Adults $9; Seniors, Students and Military $7; Children (6-12) $5; Under 6 free. 843722-2706. www.gibbesmuseum.org.

The karpeles Manuscript Library Museum 68 Spring St. Dedicated to preservation of original handwritten documents of the great men and women who have shaped history. Free. 843-853-4651.

The Market Corner of Meeting & Market Streets.

Originally constructed in 1804, the magnificent main arcade has withstood the ravages of two tornados, the earthquake and fire of 1835, and the fierce bombardments of the Civil War and Hurricane Hugo. Home of the Confederate Museum.

North Charleston & American Lafrance Fire museum & education center 4975 Center Pointe Dr., North Charleston. Adjacent to Tanger Outlets.

843-740-5550. www.legacyofheroes.org.

Old exchange & provost Dungeon East Bay at Broad St. Circa 1767. Half Moon Battery beneath the dungeon floor to the elegant Great Hall where George Washington was entertained.

Over 300 years of American history.

Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission fee.

843-727-2165.

The Swamp is Calling Pristine...

Untouched...

Wild...

1000-yr.-old Cypress trees and native wildlife abound Take I-26 W from Charleston to Exit 187 and follow “BEIDLER FOREST� signs.

336 Sanctuary Road Harleyville, SC 29448 843-462-2150 www.beidlerforest.com

$1.00 OFF

Adult admission with coupon www.charlestongateway.com 45

Plan your next trip to Charleston online and download your FREE copy of the Charleston Gateway eBook

charlestongateway.com HISTORIC HOMES AIKEN-RHETT HOUSE Historic Charleston Foundation. 48 Elizabeth St. Circa 1820. Virtually unaltered since the 1850s. Former home of Gov. & Mrs. William Aiken, Jr. Adults $10, 6-16 $5, 5 & under free.

843-723-1159.

Calhoun Mansion 16 Meeting St. The largest privately owned home in Charleston. 1876. As featured on A&E’s America’s Castles, this remarkable 24,000 sq ft private residence and its formal gardens are open daily. Tours every 30 minutes between 11am and 4:30pm. $15 per person.

843-722-8205.

EDMONDSTON-ALSTON HOUSE 21 East Battery. Circa 1828. Gracious example of early 19th c. elegance, style and comfort. Tues.-Sat. 10am-4:30pm, Sun. & Mon. 1:30-4:30pm. Combo tickets available with Middleton Place Plantation. 843-722-7171.

Heyward-Washington House 87 Church St. Built in 1772. George Washington’s temporary residence during his Southern Tour of 1791. $10/adult, $5/child 3-12, under 3 free. Combo tickets available. 843-722-2996.

46 www.charlestongateway.com

Joseph Manigault House 350 Meeting St. Built in 1803. Premier example of Adam-style or Federal architecture. Captures the lifestyle of a wealthy, rice-planting family. $10/adult, $5/child 3-12, under 3 free. Combo tickets available. 843-722-2996.

NATHANIEL RUSSELL HOUSE Historic Charleston Foundation. 51 Meeting St. Adam-style mansion built between 1803 & 1808. Noted for its free-flying staircase. Adults $10, 6-16 $5, 5 & under free. 843-724-8481.

PLANTATIONS & PARKS Angel Oak Bohicket and Maybank Roads, Johns Island. Reputed to be the oldest living tree east of the Mississippi. 843-559-3496.

FOLLY BEACH COUNTY PARK & ISLE OF PALMS COUNTY PARK Restrooms, outdoor showers, dressing rooms, boardwalks, picnic area, seasonal snack bar, seasonal chair and umbrella rentals. Lifeguards seasonally. July-Labor Day 9am-7pm, Sept. 10am-6pm daily.

843-795-4FUN. www.ccprc.com.

DRAYTON HALL A masterpiece of Georgian Palladian architecture. Circa 1738. Only plantation house on Ashley River that survived the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. A National

Trust Historic site. Open daily. 843-7692600. www.draytonhall.org.

JAMES ISLAND COUNTY PARK 871 Riverland Dr. Picnic sites, shelters, fishing dock, trails, bike & pedal boat rentals, climbing wall, RV campground, 10 furnished cottages, off-leash dog park.

Adm. $1 per person. July-Labor Day 8am-8pm, Sept. 8am-sunset daily. 843795-PARK. www.ccprc.com.

MAGNOLIA PLANTATION & GARDENS Hwy. 61, 10 miles NW of Chas. Listed in National Register of Historic Places.

Petting zoo, mini-horses, Biblical Garden, picnic area, plantation house & Audubon Swamp Garden. 843-571-1266. www. magnoliaplantation.com.

MIDDLETON PLACE Ashley River Rd. (Hwy. 61). 14 mi. NW of Chas. A National Historic Landmark.

18th c. elegance in America’s oldest landscaped gardens. Restaurant, Museum Shop, Garden Market & Nursery. 843556-6020. 800-782-3608. www.middletonplace.org.

The Largest Privately Owned House Museum & Decorative Arts Collection in Charleston When it was built in 1876, the Charleston News and Courier called it “the handsomest and most complete private residence in the south.” It still is – 24,000 sq. ft. Italianate home and stunning formal gardens – open daily. As seen in Architectural Digest, American Castles, Forbes, HGTV, the Wall Street Journal, Art and Antiques Magazine, the mini-series North and South, Scarlett and The Notebook.

16 Meeting St. • 843.722.8205 www.calhounmansion.net

NORTH CHARLESTON WANNAMAKER COUNTY PARK 8888 University Blvd. (Hwy. 78). Picnic sites, shelters, trails, playground, bike, kayak & pedal boat rentals, off-leash dog park. Adm. $1 per person. July-Labor Day 8am-8pm, Sept. 8am-sunset daily.

843-572-7275. www.ccprc.com.

Waterfront Park Concord St. on the Cooper River.

High ground and marshes, beautifully landscaped. Walkways and a 400 ft pier for fishing. Rest and enjoy the fountains and views of the harbor.

Edisto & Beyond Plantation Tour Art Guild Show & Sale Edisto Fall Festival Edisto Christmas Parades (street & boat)

Oct. 8 Oct. 8 Oct. 15 Dec. 10

Edisto Chamber of Commerce P. O. Box 206, Edisto Island, SC 29438 843-869-3867 • 888-333-2781 (toll free) eichamber@aol.com • edistochamber.com www.charlestongateway.com 47

Lowcountry Backroads

Take a Trip Back in Time to Colonial Dorchester State Historic Site

About 25 miles from downtown Charleston, a trip to Colonial Dorchester State Historic Site gives visitors a rare look into a remarkably preserved past. An archaeological treasure, the park rests on the site of Dorchester, a trading town that flourished on the Ashley River inland from Charleston from 1697 through the Revolutionary War. Intact remains of the old town include the brick bell tower of St. George’s Anglican Church, a fort made of the oyster-shell concrete called tabby and part of a log wharf visible at low tide. When the town was abandoned after the Revolution, the forest and later a community park protected the site, leaving remarkably undisturbed evidence of village life just beneath the surface.

Today, visitors to Colonial Dorchester State Historic Site can watch as archaeologists unearth the settlement’s history and even participate in digs. Together with abundant historical records from Charleston, the site is helping to paint a clearer picture of colonial life in the American South. A kiosk and interpretive trail offer exhibits and waysides on the history of the village and the process of discovery through archaeological and historical research.

Other programs at the park include Living History Reenactment of the time period between the 1740s and 1760s. The Independent Company of South Carolina, Fort Dorchester Garrison is a living history group that brings history to life with programs throughout the year. During Garrison weekends, visitors can interact with authentically clothed historic interpreters as they demonstrate tasks and skills common to the American Colonial period. Cooking, blacksmithing, medical practices, military drill and musket firing are common demonstrations. Garrison weekends are scheduled for the first weekends of October, November and December.

For more information about the park and programs, call 843-873-1940 or visit www.southcarolinaparks.com. Admission to the park is $2 for adults, $1.25 for South Carolina seniors and children age 15 and under are free. Hours are Monday through Sunday, 9 am-6 pm.

48 www.charlestongateway.com

www.charlestongateway.com 33

October

Events

1-9 MOJA Arts Festival, A Celebration of African-American Arts, 843-724-7305, www.mojafestival.com.

1-23 Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens, Thurs.-Fri. 6-9pm & Sat.-Sun. 2-5pm, $45 per person per day or $120 weekend rate per person, 843-722-4630, www.preservationsociety.org.

1-29 Mt. Pleasant Towne Center Farmers Market, 9am-1pm, Belk Dr., 843-216-9900.

1-31 Farmers Market, Saturdays, 8am-2pm, Marion Square, 843-724-7305, www.charlestoncity.info.

1-31 Boone Hall Fright Nights, 843-884-4371, www.boonehallplantation.com.

1-31 Corn Maze and Pumpkin Patch, Fri. 3-10pm, Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 1-6pm. Legare Farms, Johns Island, 843-559-0788, www.legarefarms.net.

1-31 Wine Strolls, Every Wednesday 5:30-7pm, $15, Middleton Plantation, 843-782-3608, www.middletonplace.org.

2-3 Chamber Music Charleston, Downtown House Concerts, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

3-31 North Charleston City Gallery Exhibit: Works by SC Watermedia Society, Charleston Area Convention Center, 843-740-5854, www.northcharleston.org.

4 Chamber Music Charleston, Kiawah Island House Concerts, The Clark Residence, 54 Surfsong, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

6 David E. Talbert’s What My Husband Doesn’t Know, 8pm, Gaillard Auditorium, 843-577-7400, www.ticketmaster.com.

6 Spirit Ball, South Carolina Maritime Foundation fundraiser, 6:30-11pm, Hibernian Hall, 843-722-1030, www.scmaritime.org.

7 French Quarter Art Walk, 5-8pm, 843-577-7101, www.frenchquarterarts.com.

7, 14, The Sound of Charleston, live music from Gospel to Gershwin, 7pm, Circular 21, 27 Congregational Church, $16-$28, 843-270-4903, www.soundofcharleston.com.

8-9 Taste of Charleston, Boone Hall Plantation, $15, 843-577-4030, www.boonehallplantation.com.

9 Chamber Music Charleston, Classical Kids Concert, Where the Wild Things Are: for Brass Quintet, 1pm, Memminger Auditorium, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

14-30 Dracula, Thurs.-Sat. 7:30pm, Sun. 3pm, Charleston Stage Co., Dock Street Theatre, 843-577-7183, www.charlestonstage.com.

14-15 Off the Wall and Onto the Stage, presented by the Columbia City Ballet & William Starrett, 3pm & 7:30pm, 843-577-7400, www.columbiacityballet.com.

15-16 Don Quixote, presented by the Charleston Ballet, Black Box Theatre, 843-723-7334, www.charlestonballet.com.

15-16 Plantation Days, Middleton Place, 843-556-6020, www.middletonplace.org.

22 Charleston Jazz Orchestra: An Evening with Quiana Parler, Box office open 12pm, Doors open at 6pm, show begins at 7pm, Charleston Music Hall, 843-641-0011, www.charlestonmusichall.com.

22-30 Rocky Horror, presented by the Charleston Ballet, Black Box Theatre, 843-723-7334, www.charlestonballet.com.

27-31 Coastal Carolina Fair, Exchange Park, Ladson, 843-572-3161, www.coastalcarolinafair.org.

28- Camera Works: Masters in Photography, exhibit at the Gibbes Museum of Art, 1/8/12 843-722-2706, www.gibbesmuseum.org.

29 Ghost Walk/Harvest Fest/Harvest Moon Hayride, 6-9pm, Historic Downtown Summerville, 843-821-7260.

50 www.charlestongateway.com

Uniquely Charleston

Experience Three Centuries of Charleston’s Musical Heritage with The Sound of Charleston

Ranging “from Gospel to Gershwin,” The Sound of Charleston concerts are an amazing musical experience combining Charleston’s cultural heritage with remarkable musical talent. Held in the Circular Church in downtown Charleston, the 2011-2012 season will leave listeners in awe while singing along to “Amazing Grace” in the very church that helped inspire the hymn.

The composer of the famous hymn, an officer on a slave ship, spent several weeks in Charleston in 1749. After hearing a sermon preached at the Independent Meeting House, which is now the Circular Congressional Church, the officer, John Newton, was converted and later became an Anglican minister. His faith led him to write “Amazing Grace.”

Photo by Amie Olson

For over three centuries, Charleston’s musical heritage has been as diverse as the people who have lived here – haunting spirituals of slaves first arriving in America through the port; Civil War camp songs from both sides in this place where the first shots were fired; pieces such as “Amazing Grace” and Pachelbel’s “Canon” that are wonderfully connected to the history of this great city; and, of course Porgy and Bess, inspired and composed in Charleston by the incomparable George Gershwin. This is but a snapshot of the rich array of music that makes up The Sound of Charleston.

Co-founded in 2010 by local residents Yvonne Evans and Bill Perry, Charleston Musical Heritage Productions’ goal is to expand the cultural offerings available to the over four million visitors to Charleston each year, giving residents and visitors a better appreciation of the important role music has played in the Charleston’s heritage. Since its premiere, The Sound of Charleston has received standing ovations and rave reviews from appreciative audiences from around the country and the world, as well as here in the Lowcountry.

A full schedule of performances, as well as advance ticket sale information, can be found at www.soundofcharleston.com or by calling the box office at 843-270-4903. Tickets are $28 for adults, $25 for seniors and students, and $16 for children. Group rates are available. www.charlestongateway.com 51

November

Events

1-5 Coastal Carolina Fair, Exchange Park, Ladsen, 843-572-3161, www.costalcarolinafair.org.

1-30 North Charleston City Gallery Exhibit: Works by Lori Starnes Isom and Juie Rattley, Charleston Area Convention Center, 843-740-5854, www.northcharleston.org.

1-30 Dive into the Great Ocean!: An Interactive Dive Show, daily, 11am, SC Aquarium, 843720-1991, www.scaquarium.org.

1- Plotting a Siege: Maps of Charleston in the Civil War, exhibit at The Charleston Museum, 12/22 843-722-2996, www.charlestonmuseum.org.

1- Camera Works: Masters in Photography, exhibit at the Gibbes Museum of Art, 1/8/12 843-722-2706, www.gibbesmuseum.org.

2-27 Stingrays Hockey, North Charleston Coliseum, 843-744-2248, www.stingrayshockey.com.

3, 11, The Sound of Charleston, live music from Gospel to Gershwin, 7pm, Circular 16, 18 Congregational Church, $16-$28, 843-270-4903, www.soundofcharleston.com.

5 10th Annual Harvest Festival, 11am-5pm, Mullet Hall Equestrian Center, Johns Island, 843-795-4386, www.ccprc.com.

5-26 Farmers Market, Saturdays 8am-2pm, Marion Square, 843-724-7305, www.charlestonarts.sc.

6 Chamber Music Charleston, Edisto Island Concert, 7pm, Presbyterian Church, 2164 State Highway 174, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

6-27 Bird Walk, Sundays, 8:30am-11am, refreshments at 11am, Magnolia Plantation & Gardens, Hwy. 61, 843-571-1266, www.magnoliaplantation.com.

9-10 Holiday Festival of Lights Fun Run & Walk, James Island County Park, 6:30pm, 843-795-4386, www.ccprc.com.

11-13 Battle of Secessionville Reenactment, Boone Hall Plantation, Mt. Pleasant, 843-884-4371, www.battleofsecessionville.org.

11-13 Charleston Holiday Market, Fri. & Sat. 10am-8pm, Sun. 11am-5pm, Charleston Area Convention Center, 843-529-5011, www.charlestonconvention.com.

11- Holiday Festival of Lights, Sun.-Thurs. 5:30-10pm, Fri. & Sat. 5:30-11pm, James Island 1/1/12 County Park, 843-795-4386, www.ccprc.com.

12 Curator-Led Tours of Batteries Pringle & Tynes, 10-11:30am, The Dill Sanctuary, Charleston Museum, 843-722-2996, www.charlestonmuseum.org.

12-13 Plantation Days, craftsmen demonstrate 18th and 19th century plantation life, Middleton Place, 843-556-6020, www.middletonplace.org.

13-15 Chamber Music Charleston, Downtown House Concerts, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

16-17 Chamber Music Charleston, Kiawah Island House Concerts, 7pm, The Van Horn Residence, 75 New Settlement, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

29 Summerville Christmas Tree Lighting, 6:30 pm, Downtown Summerville, 843-821-7260, www.summervilledream.org.

52 www.charlestongateway.com

Tide

CHARTS

October DAY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

November

LOW HIGH A.M. P.M. A.M. P.M.

5:04 5:59 6:58 8:01 9:06 10:08 11:05 11:56 12:17 12:58 1:36 2:12 2:46 3:21 3:56 4:33 5:13 6:00 6:54 7:55 9:00 10:06 11:09 12:27 1:18 2:08 2:59 3:50 4:43 5:38

5:52 11:42 6:51 12:42 7:51 12:51 8:52 1:54 9:50 2:57 10:44 3:58 11:33 4:54 5:45 12:43 6:30 1:26 7:12 2:06 7:52 2:45 8:29 3:22 9:04 3:58 9:39 4:35 10:13 5:14 10:50 5:58 11:31 6:48 7:43 12:46 8:43 1:46 9:43 2:52 10:40 3:56 11:34 4:57 12:09 5:55 1:05 6:50 1:59 7:44 2:53 8:38 3:45 9:31 4:39 10:26 5:33 11:22 6:28

11:52 1:44 2:47 3:46 4:41 5:31 6:16 6:57 7:37 8:15 8:52 9:27 10:02 10:36 11:12 11:54 12:19 1:14 2:15 3:18 4:19 5:17 6:12 7:06 7:59 8:51 9:44 10:37 11:33 12:19

DAY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

LOW A.M. P.M.

6:36 7:37 8:40 9:41 10:38 10:30 11:17 12:01 12:38 1:15 1:52 2:29 3:09 3:51 4:38 5:32 6:33 7:39 8:46 9:51 10:52 11:49 12:48 1:40 2:32 3:23 4:15 5:09

7:25 8:21 9:17 10:09 10:56 10:40 11:21 12:01 12:42 1:20 1:58 2:35 3;13 3:52 4:35 5:23 6:15 7:11 8:10 9:09 10:06 11:01 11:55 12:44 1:37 2:28 3:19 4:10 5:00 5:51

December

HIGH A.M. P.M.

12:31 1:32 2:32 3:31 4:25 4:15 5:01 5:43 6:24 7:02 7:39 8:15 8:50 9:27 10:07 10:53 11:45 12:23 1:27 2:33 3:35 4:35 5:33 6:29 7:23 8:16 9:08 10:00 10:52 11:44

1:18 2:16 3:12 4:04 4:53 4:39 5:23 6:05 6:45 7:24 8:01 8:37 9:12 9:49 10:32 11:23 12:44 1:45 2:48 3:49 4:48 5:44 6:39 7:33 8:26 9:18 10:12 11:06

DAY

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

LOW A.M. P.M.

6:06 6:42 7:04 7:33 8:05 8:24 9:03 9:12 9:57 9:59 10:47 10:43 11:32 11:26 12:15 12:08 12:56 12:48 1:35 1:28 2:13 2:09 2:52 2:50 3:32 3:34 4:14 4:22 4:59 5:16 5:48 6:15 6:42 7:20 7:40 8:27 8:41 9:33 9:42 10:36 10:41 11:34 11:38 12:29 6:17 12:33 1:20 1:25 2:10 2:15 2:57 3:04 3:43 3:52 4:28 4:40 5:12 5:30 5:57 6:22 6:42

HIGH A.M. P.M.

12:01 12:57 1:52 2:46 3:37 4:26 5:12 5:56 6:37 7:17 7:55 8:32 9:10 9:49 10:33 11:23 12:03 1:06 2:11 3:17 4:20 5:20 6:24 7:10 8:01 8:50 9:36 10:21 11:06 11:51 12:21

12:35 1:27 2:19 3:09 3:59 4:47 5:33 6:17 6:58 7:38 8:16 8:54 9:33 10:17 11:07 12:17 1:17 2:21 3:25 4:28 5:27 7:18 8:09 8:59 9:47 10:35 11:23 12:38

The times listed represent the predicted peak of high tand low tides at Folly Beach. Tides are calculated by NOAA, National Ocean Service.

December

Events

1- Camera Works: Masters in Photography, Gibbes Museum of Art, 843-722-2706 1/8/12 www.gibbesmuseum.org.

1-18 Farmers Market, Saturdays 8am-2pm, Marion Square, 843-724-7305, www.charlestonarts.sc.

1- Holiday Festival of Lights, Sun.-Thurs. 5:30-10pm, Fri. & Sat. 5:30-11pm, James Island 1/1/12 County Park, 843-795-4386, www.ccprc.com.

1-31 Charleston Christmas Sleigh Ride, 5pm, Thursday-Sunday, Charleston Harbor, 843-276-4203, www.thrillercharleston.com.

2 French Quarter Art Walk, 5-8pm, 843-577-7101, www.frenchquarterarts.com.

2, 9 Christmas 1860, Holiday Candlelight Tour, Edmondston-Alston House, 21 East Battery, 6:30-8:30pm, advance tickets $17.50, $22.50 day of event, 843-722-7171, www.edmondstonalston.com.

2-4 Christmas Made in the South, Fri.-Sat. 10am-6pm, Sun. 11am-5pm, Adults $6, Children 12-under free, Exchange Park, Ladson, 704-847-9480, www.carolinashows.com.

2-18 A Christmas Carol, A Ghost Story of Christmas, presented by Charleston Stage Co., 843-577-5967, www.charlestonstage.com.

2, 18, The Sound of Charleston, live music from Gospel to Gershwin, 7pm, Circular 15, 30 Congregational Church, $16-$28, 843-270-4903, www.soundofcharleston.com.

3 Parade of Boats and Fireworks, 5:30-7:30pm, fireworks begin 6:45pm, Charleston Harbor, 843-724-7305, www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

3 Charleston Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony, 4:30-6pm, Marion Square, 843-724-7305, www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

3-4 28th Annual Spirituals Concert, Sat. 3pm & 5:30pm, Sun. 3pm, Drayton Hall, 843-769-2605, www.draytonhall.org.

4 Charleston Christmas Parade, 2-5pm, parade starts at the intersection of Calhoun and Meeting Streets, 843-720-1981, www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

5 North Charleston Christmas Parade & Tree Lighting, 4-9pm, Park Circle, North Charleston, 843-740-5854, www.northcharleston.org.

10 Family Yuletide, Middleton Place, 5:40-8pm, $15, 843-556-6020, www.middletonplace.org.

10-18 The Best Christmas Pageant Ever, presented by Charleston Stage Co., 10 & 17 3pm, 18 7:30pm, 843-577-5967, www.charlestonstage.com.

11 Christmas Parades, 2pm, Downtown Summerville, 843-821-7260, www.summervilledream.org; 5:30pm, Coleman Blvd, Mount Pleasant, 843-884-8517, www.townofmountpleasant.com, 15-16 Grand Illumination: Christmas 1782, 6-8pm, Middleton Place, 843-556-6020, www.middletonplace.org.

20 Great Russian Nutcracker, presented by the Moscow Ballet, 7:30pm, North Charleston Performing Art Center, 843-529-5000, www.northcharlestoncoliseumpac.com.

22-23 Chamber Music Charleston, The Gift of the Magi, a collaboration with the Actors’ Theatre of South Carolina, 7pm, Dock Street Theatre, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

23 Chamber Music Charleston, Classical Kids Concerts, The Night Before Christmas, for Flute, Violin, & Cello, 843-763-4941, www.chambermusiccharleston.org.

22-24 Live Manger Scene, Bethany United Methodist Church, 22 & 23 5:30-7:15pm, 24 after 6pm Christmas Eve service, James Island, 843-795-3527, www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

31 Happy New Year Charleston, 4-10:30pm, Marion Square and surrounding locations, 843-724-7305, www.charlestonlowcountry.com.

54 www.charlestongateway.com

Cobblestones of the Past

Winds of War Part IV: War is hell

After four years of brutal and bitter warfare, all but the most unfailingly loyal of Confederate hearts knew the end had come. No longer could pride and will alone carry their Cause—an industrial boot heel had come to crush the once-idyllic South.

Union General William Tecumseh Sherman had broken through the gateway into the heart of the Confederacy. Any manner of gentility, of honor in battle, seemed to die in the general’s wake, and South Carolina waited with bated breath to see what he would do next as Atlanta went up in flames.

General John Bell Hood and what remained of the Confederate Army were on a mad dash north to Tennessee, leaving the vulnerable Southern heartland behind him.

General Sherman had made no illusions as to what he was about in a letter to Atlanta on September 1864: “You cannot qualify war in harsher terms than I will.

War is cruelty, and you cannot refine it…You might as well appeal against the thunder-storm as against these terrible hardships of war… [you must] stop the war…it began in error and is perpetuated by pride.”

Top: Engraving by Alexander Hay Ritchie depicting Sherman’s March, 1868 Bottom:The 21st Michigan Infantry, a company of Sherman’s veterans, 1860-1865

Shortly thereafter began the “March to the Sea,” where 60,000 of the Union’s fittest troops marched in two legs across Georgia, “foraging liberally” on the countryside while the rest of the Union Army was dispatched to deal with General Hood. The Confederates were facing a winter campaign with no supplies and through a series of disasters and pitfalls the last of the war in the Western Theater rushed in with a deadly tide in Tennessee. Meanwhile, Sherman marched uncontested through Georgia, burning plantations and earning the undying hatred of the South forever. Sherman would become a symbol of destruction, the coming of the industrial age—a stern and battle-hardened visage that forever reminded the people of all that had been lost. Upon capturing Savannah, South Carolinians prepared to suffer even greater torments—it was the Heart of Secession.

“It was a lively, rushing, young set that South Carolina put to the fore [in 1860-61].

They knew it was a time of imminent danger, that the fight would be ten to one. They www.charlestongateway.com 55

expected to win by activity, energy and enthusiasm.”

Diarist Mary Boykin Chesnut, beleaguered with the war, reflected upon the desolate Carolina landscape left in Sherman’s tracks as he moved into South Carolina. A woman who loved her home and family, yet saw the folly of their ways and suffered because of them, found herself vaulting between despair and resolute strength. “They say Sherman has burned Lancaster—that Sherman nightmare, that ghoul, that hyena! But I do not believe it. He takes his time… he does things leisurely and deliberately.” In another entry, she lamented at watching the old ways die as they crumbled beneath the claws of the iron dragon.

“There they go, the gay and gallant few, doomed; the

The American spirit was forged by blood and fire in last gathering of the flower of Southern pride, to be killed, or worse…They march with as airy a tread as if they still believed the world was all on their side.”

Rumors were rampant that Sherman would aim for Charleston after Savannah and despite urgings from his superiors at the war department, the general declined.

“Charleston is now a mere desolated wreck, and is hardly worth the time it would take to starve it out. Still, I am aware that, historically and politically, much importance is attached to the place…One reason I would ignore Charleston is this: [sic] I know the neck back of Charleston can be made impregnable to assault, and we will hardly have time for siege operations.”

In the end, General Sherman spared Charleston, but the state capitol of South Carolina did not fare so well.

Columbia burned among a hellish frenzy of drunken Union soldiers, escaping Confederates and hysterical slaves with newfound freedom, with heavy winds to fan the flames. It wasn’t long afterward that the dark news bled through the South: General Robert E. Lee had capitulated to General Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox Courthouse in Virginia. As of April 9, 1865, the American Civil War was at an end.

56 www.charlestongateway.com

ed n

One month later, General William T. Sherman toured Charleston, his reflections perhaps on another time, before the war when he was stationed at Fort Moultrie. “We went into Charleston Harbor, passing the ruins of old Forts Moultrie and Sumter without landing. We reached the city of Charleston…walked the old familiar streets—Broad, King, Meeting, etc.—but desolation and ruin were everywhere. The heart of the city had been burned. I inquired after my old friends, but they were dead or gone. I doubt whether any city was ever more terribly punished than Charleston, but as her people had for years been agitating for war and discord, and finally inaugurated the civil war by an attack on the small and devoted garrison of Major Anderson…the judgment of the world will be that Charleston deserved the fate that befell her.”

the American Civil War—to bring together one nation, united today.

Time stood still in Charleston, for even Southerners turned their backs on the city that had started the Civil War. Human nature brought a focus on gentler times, perhaps blame being meaningless after so great a devastation. Playwright Oscar Wilde once quipped that during a visit to Charleston in the 1870s he met an old gentleman in White Point Gardens and was marveling at the sight of the misty moon above.

“Have you ever seen a moon look so beautiful?” Wilde asked. The elderly Charleston man looked at him with a bitter smile and replied, “Son, you should have seen it before the war!”

A great city in America’s past, Charleston recalls the old adage that all great cities are beautiful and ugly. On this 150th Civil War Anniversary, she is a testament of all things American: pride, restlessness, courage, and rash action. The willingness to fail or succeed, yet always follow the heart. The American spirit was forged by blood and fire in the American Civil War— to bring together one nation, united today. www.charlestongateway.com 57

CARTA Downtown Area Shuttle (DASH) Aquarium/College of Charleston Meeting/King Lockwood/Calhoun CARTA DASH Stops

The Citadel 33 Mo

POINTS OF INTEREST

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44

Fl

Hagood

Allway Ashton

Ashley Marina

Veterans Admin.

Hospital

Ripley Pointe

tor 30 Connec nd

Jam es Isl a

Ripley Light Marina Hw y. 6 Ashley Pointe 1C onnector

Doughty

Rop Hosp 34 City Marina

Lockwood

To: James Island Folly Beach

Courtenay

700

To: James Is. Folly Beach Johns Is. Seabrook Is. Kiawah Is. Wadmalaw Is.

le mar Albe

Foll yR oad

58 www.charlestongateway.com

City Police Department (24 Hr. ATM)

d woo Lock ark P bank Brittle

25 26 27 28 29 30

er

17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

17

To: Charles Towne Landing Drayton Hall Magnolia Gardens Middleton Place Summerville

Riv

11 12 13 14 15 16

171 61

ley

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

WEST ASHLEY

Joe Riley Park

37

Ash

1 2

HISTORIC BUILDINGS Custom House Fireproof Building S.C. Historical Society Four Corners of Law Hibernian Hall Huguenot Church Old Exchange Old Powder Magazine Rainbow Row St. Michael’s Church St. Philip’s Church HOUSE MUSEUMS Aiken-Rhett Calhoun Mansion Edmondston-Alston Heyward-Washington Joseph Manigault Nathaniel Russell MUSEUMS American Military Museum Avery Research Center The Charleston Museum Children’s Museum of the Lowcountry Gibbes Museum of Art Market Hall & City Market Old Slave Mart Museum U.S. Postal Museum THEATERS Dock Street Theatre Footlight Players Workshop Gaillard Municipal Auditorium Memminger Auditorium Sottile Theatre Theatre 99 – The Have Nots!

MISCELLANEOUS The Battery Charleston Place The Citadel City Marina College of Charleston Fort Sumter Center & Tour Dock Joe Riley Park Marion Square Maritime Center & Docks Medical University of South Carolina South Carolina Aquarium Washington Park Water Taxi to Patriots Point Waterfront Park

Halse y

Offstreet Parking One-way Streets Public Restrooms Visitor Center 375 Meeting Steet 843-853-8000

U.S. C Gua Stati

30

JAMES ISLAND

Morrison

Aiken 19

el Chap

Anson

King

Glebe St. Philip

Coming

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Charlotte

Henrietta Calhoun 27 Gaillard Auditorium e Georg Laurens 30 Society

17 41 36

3943

Ansonborough Field Hasel l Mar ket 32 P P Pin Hayn ckne Prin Mag ces y azin e C Fulton s P 22 N. Mae P S. M rket liffor d arke Que en t PR P R C 21 7 umberlan d Broa 1 10 ge P d Sava ew 26 P Cruise Ship R 4 N 25 R 3 2 Ch 5 Terminal a 23 l m 42 R ers 24 44 Waterfront Trad 9 Park PR d P Vendue Range 6 14 Prioleau St. 8 16 Gibb Prices es L amb S. B N. Atlantic Wharf oll Mu atte rra r A y t l y anti Gillon St. c 12 Wh 13 Ga ite P Elliott St. rde oin ns t The Battery 31 N. Adgers Wharf 28

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Hanover

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South Mary Wragg 11 Judith

Alexander

Smith Thomas

Ann 20 P

Vanderh orst

Montagu Smith

Rutledge

Ashley Colonial Lake

Colon ial

Moultrie Park U.S. Coast Guard Station

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18

P

Columbus

Amherst

38

Coun cil Lime hous e Len woo d Lega Loga re n

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Lockwood

Gadsden

Calhou n Halsey Cannon Bennett Park

Radcliffe Warren

Woolfe Reid

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34 City Marina

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Roper Hospital

Coming

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MUSC 40

Morris

Fran klin

Doughty

Bee

Ashley

President

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Veterans Admin.

Hospital

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America

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East Bay Washin gton

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17

Line

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Flood Norman

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East Bay

Sumter Carolina

Ravenel Bridge

Drake

Race

To: Mt. Pleasant Patriots Point Boone Hall Fort Moultrie Sullivan’s Island Isle of Palms Wild Dunes

26

King

Congress

17

Huger

Huger

Nassau

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City Police epartment 24 Hr. ATM)

Johnson Hagood Sumter Stadium

To: Cypress Gardens Goose Creek

Coming

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Ashley

Elmwood Kenilworth Parkwood President Sutherland

Mary Murray

Rutledge

The Citadel 33 Moultrie

Playground

Hampton Park

www.charlestongateway.com 59

Crowd Pleaser

To: Goose Creek Cypress Gardens 52 Moncks Corner Old Santee Canal 78 19

55th Annual Coastal Carolina Fair

18

Summerville Ashle y

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61

14

7

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Chas. Int'l Airport & Air Force Base

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Take the short drive to Ladson, only minutes from Charleston, and find fun for the entire family. Entertainment will include not only thrilling rides for all ages, but an explosive mixture of nightly fireworks displays and nationally and internationally known performers. For more info, call 843-572-3161 or visit www.coastalcarolinafair.org.

To:

52 The Golf Summerville NORTH 78 Club at CHARLESTON Wescott e t ha Plantation osp 26 Ph To:

Ash ley

October 27-November 5 Coastal Carolina Fairgrounds

17

1

17 . r Rd Rive

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The Links at Stono 162 Ferry

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18

700

.

d tR . .d ke c i er R Riv oh

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WADMALAW ISLAND

JOHNS ISLAND

60 www.charlestongateway.com

North E

EDISTO ISLAND

Seabroo kI

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Rockville

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Seven Farms Dr. ng o

L

DANIEL ISLAND

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Coleman Shem Creek

18

CHARLESTON

17

17 4

517

MOUNT PLEASANT

Charleston 10 Harbor 11

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DEWEES ISLAND

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ISLE OF PALMS

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JAMES ISLAND n o 171 ohns

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POINTS OF INTEREST

MORRIS ISLAND

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FOLLY BEACH 26

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KIAWAH ISLAND

Chas. Internat’l Airport Airport Public Beach Golf Course

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lly Fo

Charleston Executive Airport

J Ft.

LEGEND

703 SULLIVAN’S ISLAND

Harborv iew Rd.

. r Rd Rive

Rd

To: McClellanville Georgetown Pawleys Island Myrtle Beach

GEORGETOWN

WALTERBORO 164

17a

17 321

BEAUFORT HILTON HEAD

17 174

CHARLESTON

EDISTO BEACH

2 Blackbaud Stadium 3 Boone Hall Plantation 4 Charles Pinckney National

Historic Site 5 Charles Towne Landing 6 Convention Center, North Charleston Coliseum, Performing Arts Center 7 Drayton Hall 8 Family Circle Stadium 9 Folly Beach County Park 10 Fort Moultrie 11 Fort Sumter 12 Isle of Palms County Park 13 James Island County Park 14 Magnolia Plantation 15 Middleton Place 16 “Old” Chas. Naval Base 17 Palmetto Islands County Park 18 Patriots Point 19 Wannamaker County Park www.charlestongateway.com 61

Come see what’s cooking.

MOUNT PLEASANT CALENDAR OF EVENTS Taste of Charleston / October 8 & 9 Children’s Day Festival / October 16 Battle of Secessionville / November 12 - 13 Holiday Farmers Market & Craft Show / December 10 Christmas Tree Lighting & Parade / December 11 For more information on these and other events visit comeonovermp.com or call 843-884-8517.