Pargas – Welcome to the archipelago 2018 by Vibb

WELCOME TO THE

Archipelago

25,000 islands, islets and skerries #visitarchipelago

2018

CONTENTS Welcome to the Archipelago......................... 3 The Archipelago Road and its ports are now on the map..................................4–5 Holiday Here With Us.................................. 7 The Archipelago Trail .................................. 9 The Archipelago Town of Pargas.............10–12 Culture Year.........................................14–17 Catch the Day!.....................................18–19 Fishing Licence.......................................... 20 Hiking.................................................22–23 Everyman’s Right to Roam........................... 23 Island Hopping by Bike.........................24–25 Take a Kayak Tour!................................26–27 The Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve..28–29 Archipelago National Park.....................30–31 Discover your creator of authentic archipelago flavours............32–33 Unique Archipelago................................... 35 Airisto..................................................36–37 Bornemanns Mustari..............................38–39 Tammiluoto Country Winery...................40–41 Salvador D. À la Ted W.........................42–43 The Island of Seili .................................46–47 The Short Archipelago Trail......................... 49 Archipelago Harvest Festival..................50–51 Life in the Outer Archipelago..................54–55 The Village of Retais..............................56–59 Stenskär...............................................60–61 Hyypeis Inn..........................................62–63 Mossala Island Resort............................64–65 The Archipelago’s No.1 Bachelor...........68–69 Keistö in a Nutshell ................................... 70 The Pulley Block Museum.......................72–73 Tourist Information and Map........................ 74 Publisher: The Town of Pargas, Trade Services and Tourism, Brinkasvägen 1, 21660 Nagu, Finland Tel. +358400117123 www.visitarchipelago.com The publisher is not responsible for any possible changes in time schedules, prices or other information Editorial work, texts and translations: The Town of Pargas, Trade Services and Tourism Layout: Strax Kommunikation, www.strax.ax Print: Grano Oy, www.grano.fi Cover: Stefan Bremer

2 Pelaago Photgraphy

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Vittorio Giannella, TRAVELGLOBE ©

Welcome to the Archipelago! Turku’s archipelago with its 25,000 islands, islets and skerries warmly welcomes you. he pulsing veins of the surrounding sea bring life to the islands and the people who live here. The weather, the wind and the waves shape the archipelago way of life, even to this day. The mild climate and long sunny days give the islands their rich nature that is waiting for you to discover. Here in Finland’s southwestern corner, the roads meander through lush forests and along quiet coves. Remote countryside is easy to reach from urban areas, even without a car. Take your bike with you on the boats and ferries or paddle in a kayak from island to island. Whichever way you choose, give yourself time to experience the different sides of the archipelago, and don’t miss the opportunity to explore the outermost islets. Relax or be active, get hands-on or let your

eyes do the work. Hike energetically or pause in the tranquility, ride or sail. You can buy the ingredients for a simple and delicious meal, dining outside, on a boat or in a cottage. Alternatively, why not eat a sumptuous dinner at an idyllic restaurant or enjoy a refreshing cup of coffee in a cozy cafe. The choice is yours. The summer months are the high season in the archipelago, so it’s worth planning your trip in advance. Note that the queues for ferries operating between the main islands can be long, especially during the summer and on weekends. Please book your accommodation well in advance. Choose what you want, we will help in every way we can. You’ll find people and businesses, as well as maps and contacts here.

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The Archipelago Road is now on the map, but how did it come about?

The old maps of Turku’s archipelago are full of amusing details and local place names. But why is there a Viking ship on these maps you might ask? Did Vikings invade? Are there old Viking settlements? When does the story begin? ctually we only have to go back as far as 1958 to find the answer. The story goes that one evening Lasse Gestranius from Pargas had a meeting with two guys from the newly established Viking Line. This company planned to launch the first real car ferry between Finland and Sweden. The plan was to sail the ferry between Galtby (Korpo) – Mariehamn – Gräddö (Norrtälje). Of course they needed a poster to market this ambitious project. Lasse, who was in advertising, got excited by the idea and headed home to make a poster with his wife, Tita Gestranius, who was a graphic artist. However, when Lasse arrived home he found a note telling him that Tita had left for the maternity clinic to give birth to their child. Lasse arrived 20 minutes too late to be at the birth … they had a daughter. So, no poster was produced that evening. Instead a poster was made a little later

4 THE ARCHIPELAGO ROAD

– designed by Tita. On 1st June 1959, the Rederi Ab Viking Line (as it was known then) began its service to Sweden. The ship was named the S/S Viking – hence the reason why a Viking boat appears on the maps. The purpose of the poster was to advertise the ‘Archipelago Road’ that would encourage and help people to find there way to Galtby. People from Turku and Helsinki had no clear idea about how to get to Korpo via Pargas and Nagu, and they didn’t want to miss the ferry to Sweden. Times were different then. The ferry was 99 metres long with capacity for only 88 cars. The cars were hoisted onboard using a crane. However, a new era of travel between Finland and Sweden had begun. The cruise industry was born. The Archipelago Road is now an established concept for travelers and tourists, and it matters not that Viking Line has long since moved away. The Archipelago Road is still very much alive and thriving.

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The Archipelago bus runs the Turku–Pargas–Nagu–Korpo–Houtskär route several times a day.

The Archipelago Road and regional 180 highway connects the archipelago town of Pargas and the islands of Pargas, Nagu and Korpo with the mainland. The road is the main arterial for the Turku Archipelago. Formerly it extended across to the island of Houtskär as part of the Archipelago Road , but nowdays stops in Korpo. The Archipelago Road is also part of the official Archipelago Trail, which is a well-marked national tourist route that allows archipelago visitors to explore the unique island realm, even without a boat. Read more about the Archipelago Trail at: www.saaristonrengastie.fi.

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THE ARCHIPELAGO ROAD 5

Sail to our beautiful islands steeped in history.

Cozy accommodation right by the sea.

Experience archipelago culture and local cuisine on our excursions.

Book easy and experience the archipelago! Accommodation: cottages, hotels, B&Bs Group excursions: Archipelago Trail, ร land, Kimitoรถn Sailing: public and private cruises Fishing: cottages and boats, guided tours, luxury packages Archipelago nature school: nature camps and excursions Activities: cycling, paddling etc. +358 (0) 2 410 6600 info@archipelagobooking.fi

www.archipelagobooking.fi accommodation.archipelagobooking.fi

Finland Kustavi Vuosnainen Åva Naantali

Åland Islands

Brändö

Turku Helsinki

Iniö Parainen

Eckerö

Hummelvik Långnäs

Mariehamn

Sweden

Kumlinge Houtskari Galtby Nauvo Korppoo

Kemiönsaari

Svinö Föglö Kökar

Turku Archipelago

Riga

Gdańsk Arlanda

Stockholm

Holiday Here With Us When we say the Archipelago, we also mean our Archipelago, Turku’s Archipelago, Åbolands Archipelago, The Archipelago Sea. Our beloved treasure goes by many names. You can reach us by every means and from all directions. Whether traveling by sea, road or along the various trails, you will find your way to us here in the archipelago. Come to us by sea or overland from Finland to Sweden, from the mainland to Åland, from Moscow, St Petersburg, Tallinn, Helsinki and Turku to Stockholm. Or vice versa in the opposite direction. These routes pass through us and out into the world.

Come to us! How? Previous journeys were always by ships, boats and by floating vessels of various kinds. This is still true today but now those traveling by bicycle, car, bus or other vehicles will find it just as easy to get here. The archipelago is a world in itself. It is totally unique, peacefully isolated and refreshingly modest. At the same time it’s readily available, really close and easy to reach – as are all of us.

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THE ARCHIPELAGO 7

The Archipelago Trail – From island to island for 20 years The Archpelago Trail is a comfortable and pleasurable way to get to know the Turku archipelago. There are eight ferries or commuter ferries as well as a dozen bridges that connect the visitor from island to island in this unique archipelago. Along the route there are a variety of services, accommodation options and dining opportunities. he whole trail is about 250km long and can be navigated by bicycle, motorcycle or car, or other means, both clockwise and anticlockwise. The commuter ferry, M/S Antonia, connects Houtskär and Iniö and the M/S Aura ferries between Iniö and Kustavi. M/S Antonia operates only during summer (June to August)

whilst M/S Aura operates all year round. The Archipelago Trail is marked with brown national tourist route signs. Check in advance the timetables and prices by calling tel: +358 400 117123, or emailing: info@pargas.fi, or go online at: www.saaristonrengastie.fi/en and www.ferry.fi.

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THE ARCHIPELAGO TRAIL 9

Nordkalk Corporation

The mine that is the most popular sight is located right near the city centre.

The Archipelago Town of

Pargas

Come through the gates to Pargas town. Today, the archipelago town consists of: • The former independent municipalities of Pargas, Nagu, Korpo, Houtskär and Iniö • Around 15,500 inhabitants • 57% Swedish speakers, 42% Finnish speakers, 1% speakers of other native languages • 80% water area, 20% land area • Over 10,000 islands, islets and skerries

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• • • • •

98 islands with permanent residents About 8,300 holiday homes Countless bridges, ferries and ferryboats 10 guest harbours, 20 smaller ports and natural harbours Diverse services near the sea, from cafés and restaurants to markets and shops

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Playground slide ”The Laughing Pike” Lucius Alienus, designed by Stefan Lindfors.

Exhibition MARE 9.6–26.8.2018 Stentorp

• Yngve Gustafsson, Åland – Model boat builder • Almut Hintze, Hannover, Germany – Acrylic and jewellery • Heikki Vendelin – fPhoto and watercolour • Jill Christiansen – Wool and skins Skråbbovägen Pargas, www.stentorp.fi Pelaago

In Pargas centre, commonly known as Malm, it’s worth taking a look at the impressive limestone quarry, one of the largest in the Nordic region, as well as the industrial museum that literally sits on the edge of the quarry. The Nordkalk quarry, referred to as the ‘mine’ despite no stone broken underground, is both a major employer and a special attraction. From two vantage points you can look out over the 130m deep, 2km long and 70ha large opencast mine, as well as the so-called ‘Hundbanan’ that rises up like a huge stone turret. Quarrying about 2 million tons of stone per year, about two thirds of the quarried material is limestone, which the three large companies of Nordkalk, Finncement and Weber use for the manufacturing of cement and other lime-based products. Every weekday at 2pm a signal sounds across the Malm district, as it has done for 100 years, announcing to Pargas residents the blasting in the mine. Visit Old Malm and the Pargas

District Museum on Storgårdsgatan Street. Both the industrial and district museums are open in summer. The historically valuable buildings and artefacts represent different eras and environments of Pargas. The beautiful medieval church in Pargas is not to be missed. Walk over the footbridge to Runeberg House, to admire Fredrika and Johan Ludvig’s art studio ‘My Heart’s Story’, accessible through the small winding alleys. In Old Malm, info-boards with QR-codes link up with an app that provides information and interesting stories about the homes and environment, past and present. Along the streets of Strandvägen and Köpmansgatan are several nice shops, restaurants and cafés. You can also stroll around the Central Park that has beach volleyball and, for the family, adventure golf and outdoor gym equipment. Stefan Lindfors has designed the new, silver-red slide in the park, called ‘The Laughing Pike.’

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PARGAS 11

To the right: Solliden Camping.

A driving range for golf will open in Nagu in spring 2018.

Above: The new adventuregolf in Pargas centralpark

Cosy accommodation in Malm is found next to the guest harbour at Hotel Kalkstrand, Solliden Camping is located in Norrby and school hostel lodgings are available in Pjukala. Solliden Camping offers cottages, sauna, pitches for tents, caravans and motor homes, a bistro, fishmongers and one of the best beaches in Pargas. The opportunities to play golf in Pargas are superb. In Finby, the 18-hole course of Archipelagia Golf attracts players from all over. The course is challenging with variable terrain, the greens are in top condition and the golf restaurant serves delicious food. In Pargas, you’ll experience the beauty and charm of the inner archipelago. Stop into the Sattmark coffee shop ‘Kaffe & Safka’ along the Archipelago Trail. In the courtyard there is also a gift shop with regional handicrafts and a fishmongers. You’ll be impressed by the verdant nature at the Lenholm Conservation Area after the bridge at Sattmark, as well as the ‘Abborrhålet’ area, with its groves of oak, ash and other deciduous

12 PARGAS

trees, orchids and butterflies. Wetlands, coves and waterways are rich with birdlife – typical for the area. If you walk about 2km along the nature trail in Lenholm, you can climb to a bird tower and look out across Mattholm bay. In Nagu you can visit the Maritime House, with exhibitions about shipping, shipbuilding and Åke Sandvall’s miniature models. There is a guest harbour north of Kyrkbacken, but also the southern harbour is thriving. A walk along the beach to Framnäs and a cool dip in the sea can be compared to stroll along the Riviera, with all its boats, restaurants, cafés, hotels and fashion stores. In Korpo, we recommend that you visit Korpoström, a popular hub at anytime with its Archipelago Centre and rewarding cultural activities. The cosy feel of the Archipelago Museum is also worth a visit. Another little gem of the archipelago is the Local History and Boat Museum in Näsby on Houtskär, in addition to the beautiful churches and chapels such as the Sophia Wilhelmina Church in Norrby, Iniö.

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Stentorp sheepfarm From sheep to ready product

Jill Christiansen – lambswool and -skin

Craft Exhibition MARE

Tammiluoto Country Winery

9.6–26.8.2018

• WINE SHOP AND WINE TAVERN/CAFÉ open during summer daily 11–18. At other times upon reservation. • Groups can order meals, snacks or wine tasting. • Main venue is suitable for 120 people and wine tavern 50 people.

Yngve Gustafsson, Almut Hintze, Germany Åland – miniatureboat – art of jewellery construction and acryl

Heikki Vendelin – photo and aquarelle

• Visitor harbour, channel depth 1.5 m. Tammiluoto Country Winery, Lemlahti, Parainen +358(0)2 4586899, +358(0)400 227298 viinitila@tammiluoto.fi, www.tammiluoto.fi

Open daily between 12 and 18 o’clock Skråbbovägen 222, Pargas, +358 (0)400-844506 www.stentorp.fi

Shop gifts & souvenirs

in Pargas - Parainen .fi finnish design and local handicraft Kauppiaskatu 12, (02)4544 065

gifts and kitchenware Kauppiaskatu 3, 010 420 8080

.fi

Culture

– All Year Round Summer theatre, exhibitions, art and music. All are happening in the cultural city of Pargas. Events abound Pargas Days kick off the summer with markets and a busy programme. The Boundbirsen country fair is held in Pargas every other year. It’s a day when the country comes to town, with animals, hay bales, tractors and a country market – unrivalled throughout the land. The Potato Festival and Archipelago Harvest Festival are held in Nagu. Korpo reverberates with music as it hosts the Korpo Sea Jazz and Sibelius Week. Among other things, Houtskärs Days will include some traditional sailing. An attractive way to celebrate

14 CULTURE

midsummer’s eve is in the Iniö archipelago, staying on islands such as Jumo or Keistiö, the latter of which has its own Keistiö Day. Summer theatre Theatre Teaterboulage in Pargas has been performing summer theatre continuously since 1997. Performed in summer 2018 is the newly written musical drama, Stenplockerskorna. Its premiere will be held amidst the beautiful nature of Lillholm, after midsummer.  teaterboulage.fi

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The youth performances of Teaterboulage attract large audiences.

The quaint museum is a hidden gem of archipelago history.

In the churches in the archipelago, highclass concerts are organized all year round. Discover the archipelago’s rich cultural history this summer! The archipelago town of Pargas offers an array of cultural experiences. Archipelago culture and the town’s history come through most strongly when visiting the museums in the archipelago. Each island has its own distinctive history that can be understood through the cherished collections of the local museums. In order to visit the quaint museum of ”Stenhuset” in its remote location on the island of Utö, you need to travel for six hours by ferryboat from Pärnäs in Nagu. At the Archipelago Museum in Korpo, familiarise yourself with the prohibition period and the legendary spirit smuggler, Hjalmar Mäkelä. Mäkelä had some ingenious ways of evading the authorities. In the museum you can see his motorpowered ‘spirit sled’ as well as other smuggling artefacts. The Korpo Local Museum consists of a picturesque farmhouse with cottages, outbuilding, forge and barn. Down by the shore in Kuggviken is a fishing shed and stone remnants from a bridge dating back to the 1400’s. The interior and objects in the cottage reflect what life was like in

Korpo during the 19th and 20th Centuries. The Archipelago Centre Korpoström highlights many of the dramatic events that took place in the archipelago during the 1700’s. Particular attention is given to the naval battle of Korpoström in 1743. Also, the story of one hapless balloon ride that ended in Brunskär on Korpo, is also told at the archipelago centre. The unfortunate traveller was Salomon André, a Swedish adventurer and balloonist, who accidently flew over from a balloon show in Stockholm. The archipelago’s ancient traditions of boat building are kept alive at Houtskär’s Archipelago Museum. Located by the beautiful beach in Näsby bay, the entire museum is architecturally appealing. Among the buildings, there is a large museum hall, a boat workshop and a few storehouses. Fishing equipment is displayed in the exhibition hall. On Iniö you can visit a privately owned specialist museum. The Small Pulley Museum next to the church in Norrby on Iniö, exhibits a delightful collection of blocks and pulleys, as well as other shipping related objects. Shipping is the main theme for the exhibitions shown in the Maritime House in Nagu. The mari-

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CULTURE 15

Summer theatre is organised at the archipelago town’s many museums.

To the left: Korpo Sea Jazz and Sibelius Week fill Korpo with music.

time house is a stone’s throw from the lively guest marina, in a building that originally contained the town’s post office. This year’s special exhibition presents the interesting story of how Nagu is connected to the famous Battle of Svensksund, 1790. For those who are fond of old tractors, why not pay a visit to Fagerlunds Tractor Museum in Nagu. There in the museum, you’ll find 37 tractors as well as other old harvesting machines and paraphernalia. The archipelago’s largest museum is located in Pargas. The local museum is found just a short distance from the town centre. The grounds contain about ten buildings that exhibit the history of Pargas over the centuries. Among the various buildings, found on the hillside is the stately home of Kirjala Norrgård, with a special room commemorating the founder of the Soviet Union, Vladimir Lenin. The famous revolutionary figure fled from Russia in 1907 and his escape took him through Pargas. The Local Association celebrates its 90th anniversary, commemorating the occasion with several events held at the museum in summer 2018. The Industrial Museum is located at the edge of Nordkalks limestone quarry in Pargas. The museum features limestone and the town’s industrial history. A geological exhibition displays the

16 CULTURE

two-billion-year-old history of limestone. The well-preserved Skyttala, dating back to the 17th Century, is found 6km outside the town centre. The Skyttala Museum can be visited free of charge during any annually arranged event. The district of Gamla Malmen is an area with a rich cultural history. The art exhibitions in the local art gallery can be viewed free of charge. Using the mobile guide application and the signposts around the old wooden town, visitors can discover the town’s history at their own pace. Welcome and enjoy a fascinating archipelago culture experience! Arts and handicrafts Arts and handicrafts are scattered throughout the archipelago. During your visit you can paint, sculpt pottery, do carpentry, weave garments, attend courses and handicraft camps..., there are so many ways to do and learn. Also, you can immerse yourself in arts and crafts by visiting museums, exhibitions and fairs. Craftsmen from the Association of Turku Artisans, are happy to help you create something yourself. Great satisfaction comes from creating something by your own hand. It is both fun and promotes well-being. For more information visit: taitoaboland.fi The Konstrundan design event takes you to the workshops and studios of the artists, crafts-

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Outdoors concert on the Pajbacka sports ground. In the background you can see the famous mine.

men and designers in the region. Spend the first weekend in September delving into the art-scene. Konstrundan offers a wide range of visual arts to suit all tastes. The event highlights art and how it is part of daily life in the local community.  konstrundan.fi Festivals and markets The Culture Parliament 2017 (22 Aug–9 Sep) is about bringing people together to experience, see, listen and participate. The concept of culture is quite broad, ranging from art to dogs, film and the environment, and everything in between. Allow yourself to be challenged and surprised!  kulturparlamentet.fi The Archipelago Market on the high street in Pargas during May, as well as market stalls and atmosphere of the Archipelago Harvest Festival in Nagu Square 15-16 Sep, are great opportunities to enjoy the archipelago’s beauty in spring and autumn. Take the chance to load up with local archipelago delicacies.  skordefest.fi Festivals and music The Archipelago music festivals offer high-quality concerts in various genres. Ballads and jazz, folk music and children’s music, classic and rock, chamber music and church concerts – the choice is yours! The archipelago venues for the concerts

are the most beautiful. A selection of events: • Pargas Organ Days, held at the end of July • Nagu Chamber Music Festival, 4–7 July 2018 • Sibelius in Korpo, held 20–22 July 2018 • Korpo Sea Jazz, held 25–28 July 2018 • Iniö Folk, held in late July • Fine Spelman, held 3–5 Aug 2018 • Culture Parliament, held 22 Aug–9 Sep Organised in the eastern archipelago are Baltic Jazz and the Kimito Island Music Festival in July, and Festival Norpas in August. Korpo Sea Jazz – A gem of the Archipelago Sea Korpo Sea Jazz has become an annual gathering of elite jazz performers from across Finland. The word ‘festival’ does not do justice to the depth of music you can enjoy. A more apt description is ‘concert series’. During the four days at the end of July, audiences can listen to high-quality jazz. Concerts are held in Korpo, Nagu and Houtskär.  korpojazz.fi  pargas.fi/kultur or facebook.com/PargasKulturParainenKulttuuri

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CULTURE 17

Justus Hirvi

Catch the Day!

Justus Hirvi

A cottage holiday in the archipelago that combines fresh spring weather or colourful autumn days with sauna and dinner that you catch yourself, is an experience that can’t be beat.

he archipelago waters are rich fishing grounds, with big fish and plenty of them! Every place is exciting, from the reedy coves of the inner archipelago to the wide and barren outer islands. You are able to catch perch, pike, zander, sea trout, salmon, rainbow trout, whitefish, flounder, burbot, Baltic herring, ide, bream and other roach. You can engage in recreational fishing throughout the year but of course each time of year has its own seasonal fish. The autumn is considered to be the best time for fishing, but angling on a warm summer’s evening or ice-fishing on a glistening winter morning are experiences you will never forget. Alongside sport fishing these are the most popular forms of fishing. Angling or ice-fishing fall under the right of public access

18 FISHING

and does not require a permit but sport fishing requires a state or regional fishing license. The smell of fish that you have caught, cleaned, smoked or grilled over an open fire is integral to a perfect archipelago holiday. But don’t forget the fish that you can buy fresh or ready prepared. Nothing tastes better than a fresh catch taken directly from the fisherman’s smokehouse to your dining table, which of course can be a smooth rock bathed in a glowing sunset. Book your fishing cottage in good time as the autumn weekends are usually very popular. A rented cottage usually comes with rowboat included. Motorboats and other transport can also be hired. Also, an expert fishing guide can provide you with information, advice and places for the best catch.

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Professional fisherman Agneta Jansson and her husband Jarmo Ylitalo (above) fish together daily on Stenskär. Those who visit the guest harbour on Stenskär island in the Archipelago Sea during summer by boat or by ferry from Kirjais Österudde can indulge in smoked fish, home Justus Hirvi baked goods and freshly grown vegetables. Read more on Stenskär from pages 60–61.

Pikepointer – guided fishing trips.  www.pikepointer.fi

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FISHING 19

Do I need a fishing licence? The general fishing rights in Finland are similar to everyman’s right to roam. However, some are free and some require a fee depending on the method. You may also need permission from the owner of the water. So long as there is respect for privately owned shorelines, all are welcome to go ice fishing, fish with a hook and line or with a simple herring rig. If you are under 18 or over 65 years old angling is free throughout the country (except the Åland Islands). All other types of fishing require a fee to the Finnish fishing authorities. The fees payable to the authorities in Finland are e45 for a year, e15 for 7 days and e6 for 1 day. The table below indicates the fishing methods that require a fee and whether or not you need permission from those who own the water rights. The archipelago has large, privately owned areas of sea but understandably these boundaries are not marked. To find out if the fishing management fee is necessary, just ask the local entrepreneurs renting out boats or equipment. They are also likely to be the ones who own the water rights. Many of the privately held waters are leased to professional fishermen, so please respect their livelihoods and don’t fish without permission, if it is required. The fisheries management fee doesn’t entitle you to fish in areas of rapids or running waters with migratory fish stocks, or in areas where fishing activities are banned by the ELY-Centre. Monitoring of fishing in Finland is done by the Metsähallitus (Forestry Administration), which annually reviews the fishing licences and practices. There are three ways to pay for your fishing permit: 1. Register, log in and pay for your permit at www.eraluvat.fi. Registration requires the name of the fisherman, contact information and date of birth (but not your personal ID). It is advisable

20 FISHING KULTUR

to print out your receipt or save it on a mobile device. 2. Call the service number +358 (0)20 69 2424 (weekdays 8am-4pm) and provide your name, contact details and date of birth. You will receive by mail a payment voucher with which you can pay the fishing management fee. Save the payment receipt. 3. Register and then pay the fishing management fee at a Metsähallitus visitor’s centre or at an RKiosk. You will immediately receive a receipt for the fishing management fee. Please note – Always have your receipt of payment available when you go fishing – If you are under 18 or over 65 years old and are exempt from charges, please always carry identification with you so your age can be verified.

Fishing method

under 18, over 65 years

18–64 years old

Angling with a hook and line Ice-fishing Herring fishing with a rig

Free of charge

Lure fishing with one rod

Free of charge

Fishing management fee

All other types of fishing e.g. nets, long-lines, cray fishing Fishing with more than one rod

No fishing management fee AND permission of the water owner

Fishing management fee AND permission of the water owner

Fishing at special fishing sites

No fishing management fee AND permission of the water owner

Fishing management fee AND permission of the water owner

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Welcome to Kustavi, by land & sea

Cottages and experiences in Nauvo i Kustavi municipality Tel. +358 2 842 6600 Tourist info June-August, Tel. +358 2 842 6620 matkailuneuvonta@kustavi.fi www.kustavi.fi

Cosy cottages by the sea or by the lake . Fishing, boat rental, bicycle- and fishingtrips, naturetrails and activities.

HINDERS HindersvĂ¤gen 61, 21670 Nagu +358 (0)10 666 4545 hinders@pp.inet.fi â&#x20AC;˘ www.hinders.fi

Angeliqa Mejstedt/vandringsbloggen.com

Take a Walk Back in Time!

The archipelago is a fantastic place for walking, there are numerous nature paths, culture paths and long distance routes. Many are short and especially suitable for families due to the varied, interesting terrain they offer. ou can find traces of history in the landscape, evidence of how people have lived, tracing recent history back to the bronze age or delving through millions of years of geological time. The cultural landscape of the archipelago has been shaped by the islanders through time. Walking paths are found throughout the area as well as on the smaller islands and in the Archipelago National Park. In the spring the sea sings with the sound of migrating birds and shimmers with nuances of green, in the autumn colourful leaves litter the rocks. Take a thermos and picnic basket with you and enjoy the silence!

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St Olav Waterway â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Nordic Pilgrimage If you are up for a challenge you can walk or cycle the new St Olav Waterway pilgrimage route. The route connects interesting cultural and historical sites such as the St Olav Church in Nagu. During the middle ages Nidaros, nowadays Trondheim, was an important pilgrimage destination, the Nordic Santiago de Compostela. From Turku Cathedral it is possible to walk the whole 1200km route through three Nordic countries to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway. But it is equally possible to do smaller one or two day stretches which can be easily

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Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Everyman’s Right to Roam

linked by public bus or ferry. Or why not walk from Turku to Korpo or Mariehamn in the Åland Islands in a week. In addition to the main route there is the possibility to travel more slowly by exploring some of the smaller islands in the outer archipelago. Many of the smaller villages and harbours along the route have been welcoming travellers, traders and pilgrims since Viking times. There is also a water route for sailors and kayakers! St Olav Waterway is suitable for travellers wishing to travel lightly, there is a wide variety of accommodation to suit all budgets and locally produced tasty food that is a highlight of every walkers’ day. Spring and autumn are the best times to walk when migrating birds outnumber tourists and you can find space, peace and quiet. The route will only be partially signed this summer but a digital, printable map is available. The whole route through the archipelago, Åland and Sweden will open in spring 2019.

The right of public access provides everyone the opportunity to roam freely in nature, but comes with the responsibility to show respect and consideration to the environment, animal life and landowners. Everyone is permitted to roam freely on foot or by cycle, but all must avoid trespassing on private property, boating docks as well as cultivated land. If asking the permission of landowners is not possible, pitching tents on land is permissible providing due consideration is given to an appropriate site and is of a sufficient distance from any place of residence. It is forbidden to cause harm to the surrounding nature. You are not allowed, by law, to pick any protected plants such as wild orchids. Keep to the marked trails and footpaths and remember that it is forbidden to light any fires without the permission of the landowner. Remember that you shouldn’t build any fire directly on or right next to rocks as they can crack, causing scars that never heal. You must be careful during nesting periods of birds. Keep your dogs on their leads and do not leave any scraps or rubbish behind. The outdoors is a great place to enjoy a picnic, so remember to take a basket and a bottle of water with you. Take time to enjoy the magnificent beauty of the archipelago all around.

 www.st-olav.com  www.skargarden.fi

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HIKING 23

Jussi Hellsten/Visit Finland

Island Hopping by Bike – All Year Round

Information about ferries and boats is found at: www.ferry.fi. n excellent way to experience the archipelago is to cycle through it. You can ride from the mainland out to our lovely islands and even continue the journey to the Åland Islands. The Archipelago Trail gives you an endless choice of routes. There is the chance to bike from island to island, and the ferries and boats allow you the opportunity to take a break and enjoy the splendid surroundings. Pause to soak up the breathtaking seaviews, the tranquility and the archipelago in it’s fullness. Then peddle forth at your own pace to the next stop.

24 CYCLING

A bicycle ride need not be strenuous if you choose to ride short stages, stick within your physical capabilities and give yourself time. The roads are in good condition and the gradients are shallow. Be sure to check in advance timetables for boats, ferries and buses. It is also important to book your accommodation in advance, especially in summer when it’s high season in the archipelago. It is good to plan your vacation days before departing from home, this way you avoid unnecessary surprises on the way. Timetables can be easily found on the archipelago and municipality websites.

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Justus Hirvi

Cycling stores are far apart in the archipelago so it’s good to have all the essential spares with you on your trip.

There are many possible routes available. The Short Archipelago Trail from Nagu to Rymättylä, and back again, is a pleasant route if you are looking for a shorter bicycle trip. The short trail even passes through Seili Island, a place well worth exploring, information on which is found on page 46. The main Archipelago Trail runs through almost the whole Turku Archipelago. With this trail are a few optional deviations, such as from Pärnäs (Nagu) to places like Jurmo or Utö. If you wish to continue further out into the archipelago you can take the southern route from Galtby (Korpo) or the northern route that runs from Vuosnainen (Kustavi) to the Åland Islands. Detailed maps can be found at: www.utflyktskarta.fi. Paper maps of the Turku Archipelago and Archipealgo Trail can be ordered through www.skargarden.fi  brochures. Give yourself plenty of time for your trip – let your curiosity take charge!

Justus Hirvi

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CYCLING 25

Take a Kayak Tour!

In the Archipelago Sea we paddle and kayak throughout the year so long as there is open water and good weather. o paddle alone is fun but it is even more enjoyable if you do it with others; with family, friends, colleagues and guests or together with someone who you want to know better. Paddling is relaxing, challenging, beautiful and entertaining, and a particularly smart way to really get close to the sea and waterways. There are routes that are suitable for all types of wind conditions, temperatures, weather, fitness levels and moods. If you are correctly equipped then you can paddle at any time of the day, any time of the year as long as it’s in safe, open water of any kind. Paddling makes you attractively fit, healthy, strong, ecologically conscious and happy. With a bit of muscle you can discover parts of the archi-

26 KAYAKING

pelago that you didn’t even know existed. That’s an adventure in itself. The journey, not the destination, is what’s important, so the saying goes. Like in life a journey can be made in many ways, but in a canoe you have time to really enjoy the experience. With all the archipelago has to discover, this is the most important goal. With a kayak or canoe everything is within reach. All year long the sea is waiting, even when the sun does not shine and the wind is far from gentle. But remember, the sun and summer don’t determine what makes a memorable paddling adventure. The sea reveals its treasures at different times of the year!

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In the Archipelago we paddle a kayak all year round, so long as there is open water and weather permitting. With the right equipment and a kayaking expert to guide you, enjoy an unforgettable experience, whether a beginner or a seasoned canoeist, regardless of the season.

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KAYAKING 27

Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve Jumo

Åselholm Själö Nåtö

ÅBO TURKU

INIÖ

Keistiö

Mossala Åvensor Norrskata

HOUTSKÄR HOUTSKARI

ÅLAND AHVENANMAA

KORPO KORPPOO

Jungfruskär

Berghamn

Björkholm Attu Pensar

Da s lkär Helsingholm Sandön

Björkö

Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve Jurmo Utö

DRAGSFJÄRD

Träskö VÄSTANFJÄRD

Nötö Tunhamn

Bodö

Borstö

Archipelago Sea National Park Cooperative Zone

KIMITOÖN KEMIÖNSAARI

Gullkrona

Stenskär

Österskär Aspö

Archipelago Sea National Park

NAGU NAUVO

Brännskär

Brunskär Sk a r ga rdsce nt rum Archipelago Centre Sa ̈ a ̊ ris Korpoström tokeskusKorpoström

Själö

Kälö

PARGAS PARAINEN

Högsåra

Biskopsö Kasnäs

Skärgårdscentret

Vänoxa

Bergön

Hitis

Vänö Örö

HANGÖ HANKO

Rosala

Bengtskär

The Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve A UNESCO biosphere reserve emphasises the balance between humans and nature. The biosphere area incentivises working together for a sustainable society, rich in nature and one in which future generations can take pride. Each biosphere reserve is an experience in itself.

28 BIOSPHERE PROGRAMME

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The Biosphere Area United Nations Educational, Scientiﬁc and Cultural Organization

Man and the Biosphere programme

Biosfärområde Biosfäärialue

here are over 600 UNESCO-biosphere areas throughout the world, which form a network of populated communities. Since 1994 the Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve has operated in and worked for the benefit of the Turku Archipelago. The biosphere area is all about life in the archipelago. The sea and islands facilitate a viable community where landscape management and sustainable tourism are of central importance. The biosphere area has focused on small-scale sheep farming that supports the economy as well as managing pastoral land. A concept called Mathanverk (Artisan Food) has been developed together with local enterprises, where homegrown produce is prepared creating natural, pure and tasty products. Today there are many entrepreneurs in the archipelago who are involved in making Mathanverk products, which are sold direct from quayside sales kiosks, in shops and from market stalls. The Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve has also supported the founding and operation of the Turku Archipelago Foundation. Their largest investment project is the Brännskär archipelago homestead in Nagu in the southern archipelago, which is leased to two young families who live and work on the island. The biosphere area cooperates with schools to introduce and

The biosphere area includes parts of Turku’s Archipelago that are not connected with the mainland, such as Kasnäs. UNESCO’s biosphere area is always divided up into three different zones. The areas that are marked in orange inside the blue boundary line are part of the Archipelago National Park. The other areas inside the blue line function as buffer zones and the remaining areas are in partnership with the biosphere area. The focus of the work is in the buffer zones and the areas within cooperative partnership where there are people living and running various enterprises.

teach the children and youth about the valuable local environment. It also collaborates with various day-care groups in the region. This has resulted in the creation of ‘Pike and the Gang’ (various stuffed marshland creatures) who visit daycare centres to create children’s curiosity in nature and give information about environmental issues. The biosphere is administered by the Archipelago City of Pargas, Kimito Municipality and the ELY-Centre of Southwest Finland. The financing is coordinated by the Finnish Ministry of the Environment. The other central partners are the Metsähallitus (Forestry Administration), Åbo Academy, Turku University, the Regional Council of Southwest Finland and the Turku Archipelago Foundation. Want to know more? Contact Katja Bonnevier coordinator for the Archipelago Sea Biosphere Reserve. +358 40 3562655, katja.bonnevier@pargas.fi www.skargardshavetsbiosfaromrade.fi www.abolandsskargardsstiftelse.fi Find us on Facebook.

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BIOSPHERE PROGRAMME 29

Stora Hästö

Jungfruskär

Boskär

Konungskär

Berghamn

Dalskär

Yxskär

Vedenalainen veistospolku

Vedenalainen luontopolku

Konungskär

Kirjais

Paraisten Portti

Pensar

Brännskär

Kråkskär

Högland

Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Brunskär Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7. Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Österskär

Utö

Nötö Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Malmarna

Aspö

Örö

Högsåra

Tunnhamn

Sandholm

Taalintehdas

Notvarpharun

Kråkskär Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Lökholm

Satama

Balget

Högsåra

Sinisimpukka

Södernäbbet

Holmen

1 km

Saaristomeren kansallispuisto

Bodö

Björkö

Örö

Norra udden

Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Stenskär Birsskär Helsingholmen

Vänö

Trunsö

Hiittinen

Borstö

Hiittinen Rosala, Nötholm

Gärskär

Rosala 4

Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Jurmo Maihinnousu ja vesialueella liikkuminen kielletty: 1.1.-31.12.

Morinhharu

Maihinnousu kielletty: 1.4.-31.7.

Polttonesteen myynti

Kävelysilta

Posti

Luontokeskus tai luontotupa

Kauppa

Kuivakäymälä

Opastustaulu

Kahvila

Kansallispuiston yhteistoiminta-alue

Autiotupa

Ravintola

Vierassatama

Telttailupaikka

Mökkimajoitus

Vieraslaituri

Tulentekopaikka

Näkötorni

Roope palvelupiste

Retkisatama

Luontopolku

Sauna

Septitankin tyhjennys

Kansallispuistoon kuuluva maa-alue Kansallispuistoon kuuluva vesialue

Hangon läntinen selkä

Maihinnousu ja vesialueella liikkuminen kielletty: 1.1.-31.12.

Kappeli

Jätteiden lajittelu

Sandön

Pidä Saaristo Siistinä ry:n

ylläpitämät palvelut

Archipelago National Park The Archipelago National Park is located to the east of the Åland Islands and to the south of the main islands of Korpo, Nagu, Pargas and Kimito. he archipelago has more islands and skerries than anywhere else in the world and the landscape quickly changes from barren rocky islets to sheltered coves and island villages. The national park was established in 1983 to protect the wildlife and culture of the archipelago. The actual national park area consists of stateowned land and waterways, which is surrounded

30 THE NATIONALPARK

by a larger cooperative zone. The national park is managed by Metsähallitus (Forestry Administration), who take care of the harbours, nature trails, campfire sites and piers for the benefit of visitors. On larger islands the focus is on taking care of traditional landscapes: meadows, fields and woodlands are kept open for hundreds of animals and enthusiastic campers. The former military island of Örö is nowa-

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Holma

Archipelago National Park The Archipelago National Park is located to the east of the Åland islands and south of the islands of Korpo, Nagu and Pargas. The national park was founded in 1983 to protect the nature and culture of the archipelago. Comprising of 50,000 hectares it is the largest of our country’s four marine national parks. The actual national park consists of stateowned land and sea surrounded by a larger, cooperative zone. The national park is managed by the Metsähallitus (Forestry Administration) that maintains the park’s nature trails, campsites and guest harbours for visitors. You are welcome to visit the area by your own boat, via ferry services or on a guided boat tour. Camping and building of campfires is permitted but only in designated areas. You are allowed to pick berries and mushrooms. The Archipelago Centre in Korpoström provides information about the archipelago and the national park.

Above: Utö lighthouse.

days part of the national park. The magnificent nature and trail network, restaurant, various accommodation options and guest habour services, provide plenty to keep you busy during a multiple-day stopover on the island. In summer, transportation is organised to the island. Bodö Island offers another new perspective on the archipelago for boating visitors. The entrepreneur-run café and guest marina was opened in the former coast guard station in the summer of 2016. Part of Bodö Island belongs to the national park. Aboard the ferry connections you can take a day trip, for example, to the island of Berghamn

or a several day visit to the island of Jurmo. Kayakers will find the national park and the labyrinths and protection of the archipelago full of challenging open-water areas. However, visitors must remember that camping and the lighting of fires is only permitted in designated places. There are also many entrepreneurs offering restaurant and accommodation services in the archipelago. Welcome to the national park where the archipelago is only a boat or ferry ride away! Want to know more? Visit:  www.utinaturen.fi/sv/skargardshavet

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THE NATIONALPARK 31

Pia Prost

Discover Your Creator

of Authentic Archipelago Flavours Interest in local products and buying direct from producers has increased rapidly during the past decade, alongside a growing desire for food and taste experiences. Nowadays, we more carefully choose foods for everyday use like we would for special occasions. 32 ARTISANFOOD

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e plan our holidays according to places offering interesting taste experiences or high-quality food. In the archipelago, the local food culture places a strong emphasis on artisanal food. Well-known for herring and archipelago bread, many other interesting taste sensations are now available, such as meat raised in the herb-rich archipelago meadows, wonderful juices and jams made from the sun-ripened berries of the island environment, or potatoes and vegetables grown in a climate strongly affected by the sea. The mark of artisanal quality, known as Mathantverk, is not about luxury products, but about food prepared in a pure and natural way, preserving both the flavour and nutritional value of ingredients. Processing methods play an important role in the quality of the final product. In northern climates, you always have to be adept in methods of preservation, as the growing season is short and the availability of ingredients varies greatly over the year. Fresh ingredients are refined to give a longer shelf life or combined to create new experiences in consistency or flavour. The industry has developed simpler and faster processing methods, as often these processes would degrade the benefits to health and taste. ”Mathantverk creates unique products with a rich taste, high quality and clear identity. These products are primarily made from fresh, local ingredients, which are carefully processed and often grown on small-scale farm holdings. Characteristic of Mathantverk products is an involvement by the artisans in the entire production chain, with both hand and expertise. This ensures

healthy products free of unnecessary additives, whose origins can be traced. Mathantverk brings to the fore traditional foods and furthers process development, whilst also helping to create innovative products.” This is the Nordic definition for artisanal products developed under the Eldrimner mark. The purpose of the association is to develop and promote the food industry in Finland in accordance with the Eldrimner definition. The place to discover genuine artisanal products are the small farms and local markets, where your experience can receive some extra spice with the flavours, the environment and the chance of meeting the artisanal producer. In the archipelago’s well-stocked grocery stores, you can find a wide range of local produce as well as some local artisanal food. In the local restaurants you can often enjoy delicious meals made from locally sourced ingredients. Feel free to ask about the origin of ingredients. Farmers/producers: Ask from the regional tourist information regarding local farm shops. Markets and calendar: You can find more info on markets at: www.skargarden.fi  Events Restaurants: You can find more info regarding restaurants at: www.skargarden.fi  Restaurants Mathantverk – The Association for Artisanal Quality, in Finland  www.mathantverkarna.fi Archipelago Biosphere Reserve:  www.skargardshavetsbiosfaromrade.fi

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ARTISANFOOD 33

A comfortable and accessible recreational resort close to nature.

ACCOMMODATION

Hostel or caravan park: Take advantage of our comfortable and affordable accommodation services.

RESTAURANT

Our à la carte menu is versatile and in the summertime we offer a tasty lunch every day.

RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES

Find out about the different ways you can enjoy your leisure time in our resort - something for everyone.

& +358 40 719 9970 Munkkentie 251, 21620 Kuusisto, FINLAND info@koivukankare.com • www.koivukankare.com

Finferries trafikerar runtom i Finland på 44 färje- och förbindelsebåtsrutter. Vi utvecklar verksamheten med fokus på passagerarna, säkerheten och miljön. Läs mera om vår verksamhet och ladda ner Finferries mobilapp:

finferries.fi

Kaarinan kaupungin matkailupiste S:t Karins turistinformation Kaarina Tourist Information Lautakunnankatu 1, 20780 Kaarina Puh./Tel./Phone +358 (0)2 588 4010 yhteispalvelupiste@kaarina.fi

www.visitkaarina.fi

KEMIÖNSAARI tourism@visitkimitoon.fi,

+358(0)2-4260170 Villa Lande Engelsbyntie 8 SKÄRGÅRDENS & Tallimäentie 6, Taalintehdas (kesäisin), www. TURISTINFORMATION VisitKemiönsaari.fi Skärgårdsstaden Pargas Strandvägen 28 21600 PARGAS FINLAND +358 (0) 400 117 123 Special features of the Archipelago: info@pargas.fi www.skargarden.fi • Smooth hills and cliffs are results of erosion as • Definition of an archipelago, ‘many islands

Unique Archipelago

the last Ice Age withdrew. Limestone, granite and islets grouped together.’ Archipelago Sea FÖRBINDELSEBÅTARNAS and sandstone were formed. has approx. 25,000 islands. An island must TIDTABELLSINFORMATION • Huge potholes and rocks are remains from the be at least 10m x 10m. Finland has over Ice Age. +358 (0) 400 117 123 80,000 islands. • The island of Jurmo is actually the endpoint • ”Skiftet” separates Turku’s archipelago from www.lautta.net of the Salpausselkä Ridge (moraine). Stone and Åland’s eastern archipelago. Turku is sand above and below the waterline became significant as a central location. BUSS- OCH TÅGTIDTABELLER a formation during • Swedish and Finnish are spoken. Area referred www.matkahuolto.fi, www.vr.fi the Ice Age c.15,000 years ago at the edge of an ice sheet. The moraine to as ‘Åboland’ is predominantly Swedish formation stalled the melting ice until colder speaking. periods came. • Outer archipelago includes: Utö, Jurmo, Aspö, • Low salinity in the Archipelago Sea. The Nötö, and others. ‘brackish water’ is only about 0.5–0.7% • Sea is shallow. The Baltic Sea, on average, is saline, where as the Atlantic is about 3%. only 55m deep. The Airisto Sea, west of This affects sea biodiversity, with fewer Pargas, is about 30m deep. The Gullkrona species, e.g. almost no more cod. sink, south of Nagu, is about 100m deep. The • Particular fish such as the Baltic herring have deepest place north of Gotland is about adapted to this low salinity. Smoked herring, 500m deep. The Mediterranean Sea is almost pike, whiting, flounder, perch, zander, carp 4900m deep. etc. Fish farming is a big industry, mainly • Finland has a long coastline, 1000km long as bream and whitefish. the crow flies. It would be longer if it included • Industry, businesses and workplaces, remote all coves and inlets. working. Shipping, boat building, fishing, • In winter, the sea can freeze. This affects agriculture, crafts and commerce. shipping, fishing, traffic etc. Travel on back • Electricity, reservoirs, IT, broadband, municipal roads can be a problem. services etc. • The region is constantly rising, with the • Bridges, ferries and connecting ferries. Light land height increasing by about 45cm in the houses and boats. last 100 years, and twice as much, about • Summer guests and summer cottages. 90cm, in Ostrobothnia along the coast of • Tourism is important in the archipelago, Bothnia. but there are restrictions. Everyman’s Right • Here, tides neither ebb nor flow. The only to Roam is special to the Nordic region. notable exception in Finland is the Strömma Living, travelling and moving around the channel at Kimito, but only a few cm, where as archipelago means taking responsibility in most other places in the world it’s around and considering your ecological impact. 9m. • Environmental problems exist, fish and birds • Climate is temperate, with mild winters and are affected. Over fertilisation causes cool summers, but Finland enjoys four distinct eutrophication of waterways and the seabed. seasons.

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Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Airisto

– The Legend Lives On The holiday centre at Airisto beach on Stormälö, Pargas, began in 1941 when the Finnish Tourist Association built a functionalist-style restaurant and hotel building. Airisto was the Finnish archipelago’s first tourist centre, located to the west of the Airisto.

36 PARGAS

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Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

s early as the 1950’s tourists and holidaymakers were offered cottage accommodation and all sorts of activities, such as canoeing, fishing, mini-golf, saunas and boat trips. For those searching for some sun the fine sandy beach was a real paradise. The rocky outcrops are a record of these visits as boaters carved their initials or painted colourful emblems into the stone, which is nowadays an attraction in itself. In a special fishing pond rainbow trout can be still found swimming. The pond has its origins as a drinking reservoir for both the Swedish and Russian navies. The text of a plaque dating from 1916 is a reminder of the Russian presence in the bay and harbour of Stormälö. Nowadays Airisto certainly does not linger in the shadows of its past. The Airisto Strand restaurant and popular harbour serve their guests with pleasure. The food, accommodation and maritime landscape are the source of unique experiences of today. The Airisto Strand is suitable for both day visitors and overnight guests. As well as the restaurant and hotel there is a 60slip guest marina, renovated fuelling dock, boat rental and harbour store all available. Visitors will appreciate the white, freshly painted main

building, swimming beach, playground, miniature golf course, tennis courts and the new sauna for boaters. The restaurant is open daily from the start of May until mid September, but as a reservation only restaurant all year round. With space for over 200 diners, you can expect to be served classic dishes with a modern and innovative twist, in a relaxed atmosphere. Head Chef Tommy Gråhn, known for being a member of the Culinary Team of Finland, has renewed the restaurant concept. Buffet á la Airisto Strand, fresh archipelago-inspired á la carte dishes, speciality white sauce pizza, a special children’s menu, delicious deserts and an extensive wine list speak volumes. Airisto Strand is a family business under the management of CEO Robert Kristiansson. Over the past two years Airisto Strand has undergone rejuvenation, a trend that continues. Partners in the area such as Holiday Club and the Airisto Spa complement the quality service offering. All are warmly welcomed to Airisto Strand! At 190 km from Helsinki, 38 km from Turku and 15 km from Pargas Malm it is easy to reach by any means.  www.airistostrand.fi

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PARGAS 37

Creatella photography

Bornemanns Musteri

“Apple juice is just wonderful. As well as being healthy and tasting great, it is locally produced and additive free. If you have apples in your garden you should take them to be juiced. Let us make juice from your own fruit!” o says Tove and Gunnar Bornemann with passion. Together they run the small but sweet Bornemanns Musteri in Kårlax in Pargas, founded in 2012. The happy couple, who are always in good spirits despite their busy schedule, take the fragrant apples from every visitor, whether for use in wholesale or retail. Previously they worked in the high-pressured advertising and graphic design industries, but are now very satisfied with their new rural life. The autumn, from August to the end of October,

38 PARGAS

is the peak juicing season. Gunnar, hailing from near the city of Hamburg, met Tove who worked in Germany for many years. They decided to tie the knot. When they moved to Finland they left behind the stressful world of advertising for their new apple empire. At the musteri you can monitor the production of apple juice and lemonade. You can even bring your own apples. If you have 50 kg of fruit you can have it pressed into a rich juice. If you have a minimum of 1500 kg of fruit then a mobile

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apple-juicer is brought to your home, and you won’t have to transport the fruit to be juiced in Kårlax. The juice is filtered and then pasteurised by heating it to 78°C. The juice is bottled in environmentally friendly 3 or 5 litre bag-in-box containers. The container can be filled with warm juice. The juice can be kept for up to a month after opening without refrigeration. If you do not want the juice to be pasteurised then the raw juice can also be frozen. Make sure to taste your apples – for good juice there must be good fruit! Unripened apples will make sour juice, but apples that have scuffs, small bruises or defects on the skin are ideal for juicing. Apples are ripe when they taste good and the core is turning brown. The fruit should not be overripe or grainy. Every 10 kg of fruit will produce about 6-7 litres of juice. What is left, the apple pulp, can be used in composting or as animal feed. There are many advantages to using juice boxes: no bottles to clean, longer shelf life, easier to store, can be stacked, less transport weight, eco-friendly packaging, can withstand minus temperatures etc. In the farm shop you’ll find their range of apple products: cold-pressed domestic apple juice, mulled apple wine, dried apple rings, apple cider and lemonade, to name a few. Moreover the shelves of the farm shop bend under the weight of jams, jellies and juices made from strawberries, raspberries, currants and rhubarb. The apples are bought from the local growers and made into their own juice, which is then sold in the farm shop and at markets. A brewery for brewing their own beer already exists, so facilities for making real cider are also available. In the newly built café they serve authentic archipelago bread with different fillings as well as apple pie and deep-fried apple doughnuts. Tove and Gunnar are happy to develop this side of the business through events and catering. In addition Tove has a creative outlet providing art therapy for children on camps she is involved in organising.

Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Creatella photography

Go to their website and be inspired:  www.bornemannsmusteri.com

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PARGAS 39

Tammiluoto Country Winery â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Apples and Wine by the Sea Come to Tammiluoto by land or by sea, roll across the waves into the sheltered bay, or along a winding road through verdant landscapes.

40 PARGAS

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Jouni JouniLappi/Kuvastamo Lappi/Kuvastamo

ammiluoto is located on the Island of Lemlax in Pargas, about 30 km from Turku. Known by the Ekholm name it was a part of the Kuitia Castle estate. Tammiluoto became an apple orchard and started making wine in 1996. Over the years Tammiluoto developed into a tourist destination and venue for conferences and celebrations. The owner of the winery is Timo Jokinen. Tammiluoto’s conference and festive facilities provide a first-rate location for weddings, birthdays, conferences and gatherings. The atmospheric main hall can accommodate 120 guests and on the terrace a further 100 more. A knowledgeable catering team is at your disposal. Dishes are deliciously festive and beverages, more often than not, consist of the various wines produced on the estate. The hall, as well as the smaller wine tavern, is ideal for both summer and winter weddings. The setting is charming – the sea, the forest, flowers and apple orchards all are close at hand. Marriage ceremonies can also be held on the beach. Wine tasting and other cosy events are organised in the wine tavern. In summer the tavern is open daily and, in addition to wine, serves liqueurs, sparkling drinks, coffee and snacks. At present Tammiluoto’s apple orchard, cultivation practices and facilities are undergoing substantial renewal. Currently about 7000 apple trees, 3300 of which are newly planted are growing in the orchad. In addition, in the spring of 2017, 1000 pear trees will be planted. Timo

Jokinen’s son Jani Jokinen is responsible for Tammiluoto’s apple orchard and gardens. The cultivation and sale of apples constitutes the core of the business. The juicing operation provides raw juice for wholesale and retail businesses in particular. The raw juice is usually not pasteurised if sold on, e.g. to cider producers. During the production of cider, yeast is produced. Preferably, for Finnish taste at least, the cider should not be too dry. In addition to apples, high-quality domestic berries are also used for winemaking. Strawberries, red, white and green currents, sea buckthorn, aronias and gooseberries go in to making the quality dry and semi-dry wines named Venla, Tyyra and Ronja. Also the delicious sweet desert wine Mansikka should not be forgotten. The winery has a distillery license and produces, among others things, liqueurs, which cannot be bought to take home, unlike the low alcohol wines and ciders. Our sparkling wines are very popular as welcoming toasts at parties or weddings, for example. All of these products, as well as apples, apple juice, cider and other items are available in the well-stocked wine store. In the spacious sauna building there is a sauna with space for 15 guests, a recreation room, a covered swimming area and a hot tub on the terrace. If you have a need for more extreme refreshment then why not take a wintertime dip in the bay!  www.tammiluoto.fi

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PARGAS 41

Salvador D. à la Ted W. – With Style and Passion

As you enter the Art Bank you are welcomed by Stefan Lindfor’s sculpture, ’Moving Out’, a giant ant that invites you into a surrealistic world. 42 PARGAS

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Salvador Dali Private Exhibition is a unique private collection consisting, among other things, of sculptures, ceramics, prints and furniture.

our host, entrepreneur Ted Wallin, has brought to reality his clear and purposefully dreams, even if they might seem somewhat bizarre. Art Bank is an art gallery in Pargas, founded by Wallin and containing an exhibition of Salvador Dali’s work. Art Bank Gallery presents, through various different exhibitions, art from renowned domestic and international modern artists. The Salvador Dali Private Exhibition is the only remaining one of its kind in Scandinavian; a unique private collection that comprises various works of sculptures, ceramics, graphics and furniture. Certified and numbered pieces of Dali furniture

can be ordered on request. The furniture is manufactured as crafts of the Spanish BD Barcelona Design courtesy of the Dali Foundation. Shown here is the aesthetic Leda-chair cast in bronze, one of the many special items embodying symbolism and graceful forms. The Art Bank also arranges surrealistic Dali dinners and functions as well as cocktail parties. The gallery’s reception rooms can also be reserved for conferences and sauna evenings. Why not give Ted a call direct – he’s a real art lover and an entertaining storyteller, especially when it comes to his gallery. You might notice some influence from Mr Dali in both his gestures and expressions.  www.artbank.fi

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PARGAS 43

Hotel Spa Restaurant Guest harbor Shop Caravan

LÄMPIMÄSTI TERVETULOA VARMT VÄLKOMMEN YOU ARE WARMLY WELCOMED

Puh. 02-521 0100 | Fax 02-521 0101 | info@kasnas.com | www.kasnas.com HAMN - RESTAURANG - HANDEL

RASSATAMA - RAVINTOLA - KAUPPA

OUR - RESTAURANT - GROCERY STORE

RESTAURANG/RAVINTOLA KORPO, (02) 4631 600

We offer high quality food, which can be enjoyed in comfortable Archipelago surroundings.

Villa Högbo WOULD YOU LIKE TO ENJOY HOLIDAY IN THE ARCHIPELAGO?

www.ravintolabuffalo.com • info@ravintolabuffalo.com

GÄSTHAMN/VIERASVENESATAMA KORPO, (02) 4631 610

guestharbour nr 990 / nautical chart p. 727

Open from Easter to the end of October. Other times according to agreements.

villa.hogbo@saaristokodit.fi Kunnantalonmäki 17, 23390 Iniö, Norrby tel: +358 440552253 saaristokodit.fi

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WELCOME TO TURKU!

Get a taste of Turku Fancy taking several bites of Turku all in one go? Buy the Food Walk card, and select five of your favourite restaurants out of the ten choices and start your gastronomic journey into Turku’s heart. The card is for sale at the Tourist Information at Visit Turku (Aurakatu 2) and online visitturku.fi/shoponline. Price €44 /per card. Menu includes Brahen Kellari, Café Art, Café Brahe, Di Trevi, Grill it! Marina, Gustavo, Panimoravintola Koulu, Pinella, Smör and Svarte Rudolf.

44€

Tourist Information: Aurakatu 2, 20100 Turku Tel: +358 (0)2 262 7444 • www.visitturku.fi

OH, THE WONDERFUL NIGHTS OF NAANTALI Enjoy sweet dreams in one of the town’s old, elegant wooden houses, a cosy bed and breakfast, a luxurious hotel room, the archipelago.

Book your accommodation online 24/7 at visitnaantali.com.

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Seili church.

Seili

– An island of no return, where you’ll want to return Seili Island has a bleak past. From the 1600’s onwards, the leprous and mentally ill were deported to the island in the middle of the Airisto Sea, about 30km as the crow flies from Turku. At the behest of the then king, Gustav II Adolf, a hospital was constructed there in the 1620’s. In various ways, the sick were isolated from the rest of the population. 46 NAGU

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Kirkkolaituri Kyrkbryggan

Rantasauna Strandbastun

Majoitus / Boenden 1. Fyyri 2. Leipomo 3. Portti 4. Nordling 5. Ylätalo 6. Metsätalo 7. Alatalo 8. Yhteistila / Gemensamma utrymmen

Kirkko Kyrkan

Asemalaituri Stationsbryggan

Päärakennus Huvudbyggnaden 3.

Kokoontumispaikka Vakio-opastuksen lähtö täältä Samlingsplats Startpunkt för ordinarie guidningar +358 (0)40 1560064 www.visitseili. 8.

Postilaituri Postbryggan

Kurssisauna Kursbastun

7. 6.

N 100m

he island was chosen as a site for the hospital in part due to its sandy soil. Patients or their relatives were to supply the hospital with timber for their coffins that were then lowered into the sandy graves. The last leprosy patient died in 1785. A wooden cross at the church is a reminder to visitors of the 663 lepers brought to Seili. For most, there was no return. The only care the sick received was the word of God, water from a health spring and some brandy, which islanders were permitted to brew. Some of the spirits they sold to sailors who landed on the island. The sick would walk around

the island in grey jackets fitted with a belt and a bell, the idea being you could hear when they moved. It is likely that many didn’t suffer from leprosy but rather some other condition. At the same time the ‘old, weak and wretched’, as well as the politically or religiously objectionable, were sent to Seili. Seili’s wooden church, with its red-ochre walls, bench pews and humble alter, dates from 1733. The leprous sat behind a partition in the church and even had their own entrance. Stocks, a bench of shame, a church boat and the pulpit, all belong to the church’s sparse interior. Several

AUDIO-WALK In this audio-walk let the guide lead you across time and through stories from the Island of Seili. The audio is created from the memories of those who lived on the island, with music composed on the island and recorded in Seili church. The stories compiled for the audio trip evoke the moments, impressions and feelings of everyday life on Seili. Despite its incredible history the audio-tour describes the island as, first and foremost, a home.  www.audiomatka.fi

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NAGU 47

mentally ill patients are buried in a little graveyard behind the church. The Archipelago Research Institute of Turku University, carrying out marine biology research, is located in the impressive stone building, which served as a mental hospital for women until 1962. Nowadays, you can visit this building where a few of the patient quarters have been preserved as museum rooms. With the help of a guide you can get the most from your visit to the island, which has also become a popular destination because of its delightful nature. Guides can be complimented by an audio-walk of Seili. With the application you can be led through time and history by the voice of a guide. Headphones can be hired from the café of the main building and the audio-walk takes 45 minutes. Info-boards are located along the nature trail. Seili’s nature and cultural heritage is managed by the Metsähallitus (Forestry Administration). The research institute’s activities focus on interdisciplinary research in the Baltic Sea region. Special targets of research are the sea eagles, osprey, Baltic herring, copepods, ticks and zooplankton, among others. Examples of the rare flora growing on the island include the melampyrum arvense, hazel bushes and precious deciduous trees. A pair of ospreys annually mate and live on the island, with their lives recorded on camera and available to see on the institute’s website. The Archipelago Company SKAC cooperates with Turku University regarding tourism on Seili. The Archipelago Company became established on the island of Örö in the Kimito archipelago.

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Since 2017, a hotel, restaurant and café have also been opened on Seili. M/S Falkö travels the eastern route to Seili from Nagu. M/S Östern transports people from Nagu-Seili-Hanka/Rymättylä during summer months. In addition, the ferry service from Rederi Ab Vitharun has revived the archipelago route Turku-Seili-Nagu. Every day in summer their vessel, M/S Fanny, travels from the River Aura in Turku via Seili to the guest marina in Nagu. M/S Fanny is also available for charter trips. There are various accommodation options on Seili, even for large groups. Seili’s reception is located in the main building and is open during summer. Accommodation is also available outside the summer season. Restaurant Seili offers lunch and café services. The facilities in the main building are suitable for parties, meetings, conferences, exhibitions, camps etc. A product package includes transport, accommodation, meeting rooms, dining and various types of leisure activities, such as guided tours and saunas. Visitors arriving by boat can dock at the Post jetty or the Station jetty. Overnight visitors can moor at the Station jetty for a small fee, whilst day visitors can dock at the Post jetty with no charge. On Seili’s northeast side, there is a Church jetty, which Metsähallitus Parks & Wildlife Finland manage. The jetty is for day visitors and overnight mooring is not allowed.Beside the Church jetty there is a summer kiosk which is looked after by the Pro Seili association.  visitseili.fi

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M/S Östern in transport.: 18/5–2/9.2018 Nagu–Själö–Hanka–Själö–Nagu.

The Archipelago Trail Shortcut

Delicious salted smoked salmon, available from Börjes Fisk’s fish stall at the centre of Nagu marina in summer, and also from Nagu’s K-Market in winter.

– A refreshing trip on the sea The ferryboat M/S Östern takes passengers along the Short Archipelago Trail on its route Nagu–Seili–Hanka in Rymättylä. The boat operates three times daily during the summer season from the middle of May until the beginning of September. Tickets can be bought on board. Foot passengers can disembark at Seili and take time to get aquainted with the island’s fascinating history and wonderful nature before re-embarking when the ferry returns. M/S Östern has capacity for 130 passengers and 17 cars. The ferry can also takes buses, but remember no tourist vehicles are allowed on Seili. M/S Östern has two, fully licensed café restaurants with a variety of options on the menu to choose from. On the upper lounge and sundeck you can enjoy stunning views over the Airisto Sea.

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NAGU 49

For the winner, a smile comes easily.

The Archipelago Harvest Festival offers archipelago farmers, fishermen, food producers, tourism entrepreneurs, craftsmen, artists and cultural associations the opportunity to participate in the event. The objective of the Archipelago Harvest Festival is to strengthen consumer confidence and increase sales of archipelago products and activities, and extend the archipelagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tourism season. For further information about the Harvest Festival market or the open farms, and to apply for participation in the market or open farms, please contact: City of Pargas Tourism Office

Tel. +358 (0)400 117 123 info@parainen.fi, ď&#x201A;Ş www.skordefest.fi

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For the second time in world history, we select

Finlands Best Fish-Smoker In Nagu, the archipelago town of Pargas, Saturday 15 Sep 2018, is the competition to find out: ”Who is Finland’s best fish-smoker”.

rganised on the third weekend in September is the Archipelago Harvest Festival. Come along with the family. Bring your friends and companions. Leave the house and book a cottage, or stay in a cosy archipelago hotel for the weekend. Come with your own car or hop on the archipelago bus to Nagu. Enjoy the market atmosphere and the autumn’s sparkling archipelago nature. Meet neighbours and acquaintances and the archipelago locals in particular. Eat well and eat local. The Archipelago Festival is archipelago culture and the products are as local as the name suggests. Rally and evening festivities, 15 Sep 2018 The competition to find ”Finland’s Best Fish-Smoker” is arranged for the second time. The catching, smoking and eating of fresh fish has a long tradition in the archipelago. To celebrate this important part of our food culture, the Finnish Championship Fish-smoking contest is held in Nagu. At 1pm we’re up and running, the highlight of market day, so come and watch the contestants fight it out for the honour of being this year’s champion! The competition is regarded as fun and good natured, so even those who aren’t competing can keep up with developments in the smoking area. You can even follow the evaluations of the judges, as they conduct their assessments in the open. The Harvest Festival weekend begins with the traditional Saturday market in the south harbour in Nagu centre, where you can relax and browse

the local produce. Don’t leave it late to shop at the highly popular market, most of the products are sold before it ends. It’s good to come with an apetite. Archipelago apples, juices, sustainable handicrafts, mutton and sheep-skins, flowers, archipelago bread, honey, award-winning artisan food and much more besides. There’s market entertainment for the little ones, with music, peddle tractors and pony rides. The box-car rally in Nagu centre draws contestants and a big crowd for a energetic day. Open Farms of the region 16 Sep 2018 On Sundays during the Harvest Festival you are invited to explore the ”Open Farms” in the region, as participating companies and producers open their doors and give visitors the chance to see production and their animals. The Harvest Festival offers consumers a genuine opportuity to experience the unique environment. Come to the Harvest Festival and support the archipelago entrepreneurs and learn more about the ethically sustainable products – from farm to table. Farms participating on the Sunday can be found on the website: www.skordefest.fi. On the site you’ll also find the registration link for participation in the Championship Fish-smoking competition and the Harvest Festival market. The organisers – the Tourist Office of Pargas in cooperation with the archipelago entrepreneurs and the ongoing Mathantverk Artisanal Food project – welcome you to enjoy, have a great time and eat well in the archipelago.

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NAGU 51

Local food in archipelago

ISAKSSON’S Farm shops open 24/7

www.isakssons.fi

Farm shop open 24/7 Houtskärsvägen 535, 21760 Houtskär N 60° 11’ 38” E 21° 22’ 44,5” 040 865 4258

e! a m o lc nn We s&Mi a Jon

Farm shop open 24/7 Wattkastvägen 227, 21710 Korpo N 60° 11’ 28” E 21° 39’ 35” 040 964 5122

Restaurant

Bar & Pizzeria

www.lescale.fi 040-744 ..... 1744 www.najaden.fi 040-879 3630 www.facebook.com/LescaleNagu

IG @dansmoe

Life in the Outer Archipelago In the outer archipelago of today, you can live throughout the year. Aspö, Nötö, Jurmo, Kökar, Vänö, Örö… Come and experience the history of the islands and hear fascinating stories of local people. 54 KORPPOO

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Janne Gröning

ore Johansson, born in Hitis, was aged 17 when he moved to Aspö, where he graduated school. Tore worked at Utö pilot station as a fairways maintenance worker and later as a pilot boat operator, and to this day he still works there, 33 years later. As a child and an adolescent, Aspö meant a lot to him and he always came there for vacations and on other occasions. The accordion, fishing and hunting were of great significance for a young man in the outer archipelago. His interest in boats and construction work has always been close to Tore’s heart, and his first 31ft Snipa, bought from Jurmo, gave the 18-year-old a new opportunity to start travelling and getting to know others living in the archipelago. In the 90’s, life changed, as Marika started to keep Tore company and moved to Aspö. Both have their roots in Aspö, Tore is from Nästgrannas and Marika is from Östergrannas, so is was natural that they wanted to settle there. In 1993, the island was connected with electricity, which made life much easier. Tore and Marika had three children, born in 1995, 1997 and 1999, giving the island a new future. Schooling for the children began in Utö,

which turned out to be a convenient solution when Marika was offered work during the school year on Utö as well. The children have always been involved with fishing or hunting. Nowadays, all three are experienced sailors, fisherman and hunters, and although they study in the city they return to Aspö during their free time. Of course, their friends are important. Sometimes they bring others home, which makes a great many around the dining table. 1992 was the beginning of tourism. Tore smoked fish and Marika baked cakes and doughnuts, which they then took with them in the boat to the islands and sold. Boats began to arrive more frequently on the island meaning they no longer had to ride around anymore. Every summer, there appears something new, such as the boat shed, fish kiosk, café, ice cream bar, hot doughnuts, nature trails, marina etc. The Aspö natives want to preserve the unique and authentic side of the archipelago, they don’t want to expand at the expense of that which exists. Thanks to the wonderful community spirit on the island and those living there throughout the year, tourists can experience the true archipelago lifestyle.  www.aspocharter.com

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KORPPOO 55

Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Retais on the Island of Korpo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A small but bustling village community Full of life and young families with children, the village receives a fresh breeze from regular newcomers. In addition, many entrepreneurs and artists have chosen to settle here. Korpo Marin Service, AARK Artists Residence, Hotel Nestor with Restaurant Back Pocket, the Barefoot Path, Retais Boats and Carpentry as well as Faffas Bed & Breakfast are just some of the companies in Retais. 56 KORPPOO

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William Hellgren and his culinary creations.

Hotel Nestor The hotel building, formerly a barn, has been fully renovated. Industrial designer Frank Hellgren and artist Pia Rousku-Hellgren, who opened the hotel, planned and saw through the renovation. The byre built of slag stones is a stylish restaurant, exhibition and conference room. Now their son, chef and tourism entrepreneur, William Hellgren has taken over the business.  www.hotelnestor.fi Restaurant Back Pocket In 2016, William Hellgren opened his own restaurant, Nestor’s Back Pocket, at the family-run hotel. At only 25 years old he is bubbling with new ideas and a vision for the coming years. The small-scale cultivation in the yard outside the kitchen is testament to this, as William explains his plans: “perhaps a small greenhouse and a field planted with herbs and root vegetables, who knows what the future will bring.” William studied as a chef at the Prakticum Vocational Institute in Helsinki. The opening of Back Pocket has been a part of his practical stud-

ies but also a chance to realise his final project – to become a chef. The restaurant has already drawn interest and fascination from locals, summer guests and tourists. Here you are treated to what is correctly called fine dining. William uses the best fresh ingredients that both the Turku region and Scandinavia have to offer. His preparation highlights the flavours and aromas that people not from this part of the world might not be so accustomed to. His tantalisation of the taste buds and the cosy restaurant in which the dishes are served provides a real treat for patrons. The food servings at Restaurant Back Pocket are delicate works of art, providing an experience for both the eye and the palate. The carefully selected ingredients, flavour combinations, pleasant milieu and friendly staff combine to form an unforgettable entirety. Happy customers become repeat clientele. William gazes out the window and is lost in his dreams, perhaps thinking towards next summer and the delights he might conjure and offer to his guests.

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Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Faffas Bed & Breakfast

A delightful country-style B&B – worth a visit! Right along the Archipelago Trail, 2 km from the Retais ferry landing in Korpo, is the cosy Faffas. Here your hosts Björn and Ami Ahlgren run their bed & breakfast all year round. Faffas is a cosy little two-storey cottage from the 1910’s. The house was completely renovated in 2000 and has four tastefully decorated bedrooms with twelve beds and a hall, shared shower facilities and three toilets. Faffas is only 150 metres from the Archipelago Trail. You can easily reach them by car or bicycle and the bus stop is only a stone’s throw away. It’s also just a short walk to Faffas’ own swimming beach and jetty. The hostess Ami provides a warm welcome before showing you to your room and chatting about all you can do during your stay in Korpo and the archipelago. A tasty breakfast is included in the price as is bed linen and towels. The nearest restaurant, Back Pocket, is the neighbour of Faffas. Here you can enjoy the pleasant evening sun on the beach and take a refreshing dip in the sea. The sandy beach is perfect for families. You can also try your hand at a spot of fishing either from the pier or the cliffs of the headland.  www.faffas.fi

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Shall we take a barefoot walk? The environmental art exhibition Barefoot Path invites the visitor to walk along the unique 2 km long trail that winds through the beautiful forests of Österretais village. On the path you’ll encounter site-specific works of Finnish and international artists in the different elements of nature. Each piece in the exhibit along the trail is, in one way or another, concerning man’s relationship to nature and nature’s influence on man. Art and life intertwine in the embrace of the forest, on the conditions of nature. The exhibition offers a high-quality artistic experience but also provides a suitable destination as an exciting day trip for children. So go barefoot to the Barefoot Path!  www.barfotastigen.com

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RECIPE It’s safe to say that there are not many people in the world who would turn their nose up to a piece of freshly baked bread, therefore it seemed obvious to create a really good bread in the Nordic spirit, with the pure flavours of tangy tomato and rich Västerbotten cheese. TOMATO-VÄSTERBOTTENCHEESE BREAD DOUGH: 500 g cold water 15 g fresh yeast 500 g wheat flour (organic) 20 g olive oil 16 g sea salt FILLING: 200 g Isakssons’ cherry tomatoes 150 g sundried tomatoes in oil 120 g Västerbotten cheese

FILLING: 1. Place the sundried tomatoes, a few drizzles of olive oil and the Västerbotten cheese in a food processor and blend until the mixture is smooth. 2. Slice the cherry tomatoes into thin, 3 mm slices

BAKING INSTRUCTIONS: Day 1. 1. Measure the cold water into a bowl and crumble the yeast into the water. Stir the yeast until it is completely dissolved. 2. Pour in the flour whilst constantly stirring then knead for 3 minutes until the mixture combines to form a firm yet elastic dough. 3. Add the olive oil and knead into the dough. 4. Add the salt at the end and keep kneading until all the ingredients are well mixed together. 5. Place the dough in a large bowl to allow space to rise, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours. Day 2. 1. Remove the dough from the fridge and place on a floured baking tray. Flatten the dough and then fold over to trap air inside the dough, then shape into a round ball and leave in room temperature for about 2 hours to ferment.

FINAL PREPARATION 1. Heat the oven to 230°C 2. Divide the dough in two and gently mould each piece into a 2 cm thick square. 3. Spread the cheese and tomato mixture on the dough (like with a pizza) but not all the way to the edge so that you can roll and seal the dough without the filling oozing out. 4. Cover the tomato filling with a thin layer of the sliced tomato. 5. Roll the dough from one edge to form a spiralled loaf, and then make sure the edges are completely sealed. 6. Leave to ferment for about 1 hour and then bake for approximately 40 minutes until the bread has turned golden brown in colour. ost och bladspenat.

William Hellgren, Restaurant Back Pocket, Korpo

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KORPPOO 59

Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Stenskär

– In the heart of the archipelago Stenskär, a settlement for hundreds of years, has since the 19th Century been divided into two farms, Västergård and Östergård. Today there are three households and altogether 8 inhabitants living there throughout the year. At the spot where previous generations of sailors anchored in the protected bay there is now a guest marina in a scenic habour location in the real archipelago. At the 100-year-old boathouse you can purchase seasonal vegetables, archipelago bread and the famous Stenskär fish – fresh, smoked, cured or marinated. Delicious! 60 KORPPOO

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owadays fishing is still very important for the islanders, both as an industry and for their cultural heritage. Both fish stocks and fishing methods have changed and the increasing populations of, for example, seals and cormorants increase competition for fish. Today, livestock production is limited to grazing sheep. Deer and the occasional moose are also found on Stenskär, Högskär and the nearby Birsskär. Stenskär is part of the mid-archipelago. The area is typified by islands with large bays that shelter smaller islands, islets and skerries. The Ice Age has left its mark on nature, creating the natural phenomena such as erratic rocks, giant’s cauldrons and smooth beach stones. Trees grow slowly in the rugged environment. The gnarled pine trees can be very old even though they are small in size. On the main island there is a 1.5 km long nature trail that tells about the history, nature and people of Stenskär. On a bright spring day you can find yourself at the centre of flocks of migratory birds. Nightingales and blackbirds are examples of Stenskär’s rich melodious bird life. The cliffs, inlets and bay reeds are nesting sites for birds such as eagles, the horned grebe and the gray heron. If looking for a seaside cottage full of atmosphere then your choice is Stenskär. Hosts Agneta and Jarmo will gladly meet you at the harbour of Kirjais on Nagu’s eastern cape, where you can leave your car. During the voyage to Stenskär you are immediately struck by the sight all around of the world’s most beautiful archipelago. Here you can choose to stay in private on an islet, or perhaps gather the family together for a week. The equipped cottages on Stenskär perfectly preserve the feel of the archipelago. Both stoves and refrigerators run off gas in all the cabins, whilst the oil lamps and fireplace spread a cosy, homely warmth, glow and ambiance at dusk. Stenskär has five cabins for rent, two of which are on their own private islets, Äspören and Långören. These two cabins can accommodate six people and of course have their own sauna. The other three cabins located on Furuskär can accommodate five people and have a shared sauna. All cabins have a rowboat. All that you need bring with you are bed linen and towels, so not much else is required.

Jouni Lappi/Kuvastamo

Stenskär awaits you with welcoming arms!

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Hyppeis Inn

– A place where you can just be The idyllic Hyppeis Inn is located on the shores of Houtskär, in the beautiful village of Hyppeis. The building of the former village school has been renovated and turned into a cosy family hotel. Hyppeis Inn is no ordinary hotel, but a place with a simple and homely atmosphere.

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yppeis Inn offers an experience that is hard to find elsewhere in the archipelago. The rooms are individually decorated with a provincial charm. The price of a room includes a welcoming drink and a delicious breakfast made from seasonal ingredients. The hotel has five double rooms and one family room, all with separate shower and toilet. Each room comes with a view of the sea. For the couple that own the hotel, Outi and Sami, food is a passion. So, in addition to the breakfast, the hotel has a summer restaurant, with a menu that includes archipelago delicacies as well as inspiration from land and sea. In the restaurant you’ll find an appreciation for uncomplicated cuisine as well as locally sourced ingredients. The majority of their ingredients come from nearby producers as well as the hotel’s own garden. The hostess of the hotel also bakes the café’s mouth-watering cakes, pastries and bread on site. A day in Hyppeis can be spent hiking, canoeing, boating or just relaxing in a hammock. Get

to know the village by taking a stroll or by hopping on a bicycle to explore your surroundings. If your thoughts are drawn to the sea then why not rent a kayak or a SUP-board. They’re a great way to admire the village’s beautiful boathouses and the rocky outcrops of the coastline. Located nearby is the village of Näsby, which offers various services and attractions, including old wooden churches and museums. Alternatively, pick up a good book from the hotel’s library and settle down to relax in a hammock. At the end of the day you can really unwind with a steam in the sauna, a fresh dip in the sea, the tranquillity of the pier and dinner at the intimate restaurant. At Hyppeis Inn, stay in an authentic archipelago atmosphere, surrounded by sea, boathouses, rocky outcrops, meadows and forests. The location is ideal for those seeking a quiet, relaxed and secluded environment. Savour life, rest your body and soul, enjoy time with friends. In Hyppeis, you’ll receive a genuine archipelago experience – whatever the season. Welcome!  www.hotelhyppeis.fi

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HOUTSKÄR 63

Mossala

Island Resort

Are you looking for a relaxing stay to sooth the body and soul? Are you seeking to escape the stresses of everyday life? Do you long to breath deep in peaceful serenity or enjoy exploring the wildness within and wilderness around? Then Mossala Island Resort is just for you! 64 HOUTSKĂ&#x201E;R

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ossala Island Resort guarantees a holistic and ecologically sustainable tourism experience, in the midst of a vast archipelago, along the meandering trail in Houtskär. Soaring eagles through the sky are symbolic of the beauty and closeness we enjoy with nature. Hiking is the best way to experience nature and explore the island. During autumn you can pick herbs, berries and mushrooms from the abundant forests on Mossala. From the tower beautiful views open up of the island and the surrounding sea. On Mossala you can rent a bicycle to get around and visit the islands, both large and small. For anyone keen on water sports there are kayaks, kite-surfing and SUP-boards (stand-up paddling) available. Among other activities the disc-golf course with 18 baskets has become more than a trend. After a fun, sporting round of golf the beach and sauna are close at hand. Fishing is an activity that the whole family can

enjoy. Both part-time anglers and experienced fishermen can rent a boat and head out to sea looking for the catch of the day. Grilling and eating the freshly caught fish outside the cottage is a real treat. On offer is a wide range of cosy cottages (some of which have a private sauna) located next to the sea or hidden amongst the trees in Mossala’s northeast peninsula. Also, there is a luxurious, Scandinavian style villa available. Our wellequipped camping, motorhome and caravan park as well as our guest dock in the marina have been built in the last five years. We warmly welcome you to our restaurant Eik where you can enjoy a good meal on our terrace bathed in sunshine. The restaurant offers breakfast, á la carte dishes and a children’s menu. Create your own adventure! Visit our website to find out more: www.mossala-island-resort.com

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HOUTSKÄR 65

020 718 9690 Vi betjänar även på svenska

• öppet året runt • lunch alla dagar • god mat och gott sällskap • pizzor, hamburgare och sallader, även ”take away” • trivsamma hotellrum • avoinna ympäri vuoden • lounas joka päivä • hyvää ruokaa ja mukavaa seuraa • pizzoja, hampurilaisia ja salaatteja, myös mukaan • viihtyisät hotellihuoneet • open all year • lunch every day • good company • pizzas, hamburgers and salads, also take away • cosy hotelrooms

Hjalmar’s restaurant & pub Stabshuset, Handelsmansvägen 1, 21710 Korpo Tel. 02-4631202, www.hjalmars.fi

HYPPEIS VÄRDSHUS Hyppeistentie 540 Houtskari 60°12.794’ N 21°16.664’ E

Welcome to visit us!

Hotel Café and restaurant Sauna Relaxed atmosphere

Regards, Outi & Sam

BOOKINGS www.hotelhyppeis.fi info@hotelhyppeis.fi +358 40 175 7538

Our resort offers various holiday accommodation as well as services for occasional guests, including a yacht harbour and a waterfront facing restaurant serving breakfasts and à la carte menu. From cozy traveler’s cabins with shared bathroom to an exclusive design villa with own beach, here you will find what suits you best. Altogether we have 6 types of indoor accommodation, a camping site for backpackers and caravan travelers, two wood burning saunas, and multiple options for active vacation lovers. A long forest trail across the island is perfect for hiking, and the observation tower on top of a hill offers spectacular views. You can also play disc golf in our park and take bikes, boats, kayaks, and SUPs for rent. Plus, we are pet-friendly and totally welcome families with small kids. Our place is a beautiful getaway for detaching yourself from the busy city life, calming the mind and soothing the soul.

TS/Jane Iltanen

The Archipelago's No.1 Bachelor

Rolf Schwartz, hailing from Iniö, laughs at the idea of being the archipelago’s number one bachelor. “Well, maybe in Iniö,” he finds easier to believe. ven before the 27-year-old Rolf Schwartz was elected last spring to the Pargas city council, as the voice and solo delegate for the Iniö area, the editorial board had already received a tip-off. According to our source, Schwartz is, aside all else, the type of bachelor that would turn the

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head of any young women – as well as any mother-in-law to be. The information was verified by a female player at the same rugby club as Schwartz. “Almost all the girls in the club are fond of Rolf. He is so kind and such a gentleman, and always ready to help. He’s not bad looking either.”

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Living by the sea, Rolf Schwartz gets around by boat, fishes and enjoys sailing traditional peasant boats. The sea has enstilled in him a sense of respect and gratitude. “Like a roaring campfire or the bubbles in beer, it’s always alive!”

“I’ve been raised to see people as people.” Living in Norrby, on Iniö, Rolf Schwartz introduces himself with a smile and immediately asks if we have seen many deer about. “We hunt them because they’re all over the place. There are times when I could easily shoot, but then I choose not too, because they are too cute.” The refreshing contrast between his masculine and feminine sides is there to see in the hobbies Schwartz enjoys. A sport well known for its hard tackling, rugby is one of his favourites, but so is singing in the choir of Åbo Akademi. Schwartz’s multi-dimensional character extends to his approach and perceptions of people’s gender, age, vocations, personalities and opinions. “ Here in Iniö, I’ve been raised to see people as people. Everyone is equally important. When there are only 15 kids at your school, all of different ages, and you want to play football, everybody is involved, no matter what the age. That’s one of the advantages of living in a small town.” For the same reason, Rolf didn’t want to be profiled as only representing young people during the election campaign. “I am here to represent everyone.” There’s always time for the important things in life Rolf Schwartz’s main job is running a taxi business in Iniö with his mother Lola Schwartz. He also helps his mother with her catering work. In summer, he is in charge of the cafe aboard the ferry boat Antonia, which is full of tourists travelling around the Archipelago Trail. “I used to think that I was very busy. But when my dad died in the spring, I noticed I could find plenty of time to sit at his bedside – all I needed to do was prioritise differently.”

With this in mind Schwartz plans to live for the future – there’s always time for the important things in life. This was the same lesson he learnt whilst studying business at Novia, as well as spending half a year as an exchange student in Thailand and half a year in Argentina. “The second time I had to say goodbye to those I got to know wasn’t as hard as the first. By then, I had I learned to embrace the moment more and enjoy living, knowing that those goodbyes lay ahead.” Living in the moment also affects his use of his mobile. When Schwartz is with his friends he gives them his undivded attention and keeps his phone well hidden. “It’s much better to be completely in the moment and concentrate on the people you’re with. It doesn’t make any sense to be with friends if you keep looking at your phone. You can always message and respond later.” Dreams of a partner, both genuine and natural in character

What do you dream about?

“That’s a pretty deep question, but probably, it’s that I could always enjoy what it is that I do. I want to be able to help people and to do good things for others. I also dream that the archipelago will continue to live on in the future as well.” “In my dreams I also have a spouse and children. It’s a bit of a challenge to find a parnter in Iniö. For someone from the city it would be an obstacle moving to the archipelago, if you couldn’t see the benefits of living here. For me, I would love to start a family in Iniö, but of course I am open to any possibility.” It’s a dream for Schwartz to find a partner who enjoys their own company – a sort of selfconfidence. “I would also like them to be themselves and not need to pretend. To be a genuine and natural person.” This article was originally published in Turun Sanomat in the special section TS Saaristo (archipelago) at their website: saaristo.ts.fi At TS Saaristo there are free archipelago-related articles about the Pargas Archipelago, so check out:  saaristo.ts.fi

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Pictures taken by Keistiö’s nature photographer, Janne Gröning.

Keistö in a Nutshell

The first references to the village of Keistiö date from 1540 in King Gustav Vasa’s ’land book’, i.e. the tax register. At that time the village had seven farms – now you can count six: Braskas, Brusis, Håkans, Klemets, Knuts and Sutars. eistiö is the largest, by area, of all the islands/villages in Iniö, approx. 1011 ha large. There are about 3.9km of public roads and in 2012 the roads in Keistiö received official road signs. There are 32 people living on Keistiö. Of these, 25 are Swedish speakers and 7 are Finnish speakers. There is a village association, hunting club and fishing club. The village association participated in the Green Island-project in 2014. The project resulted in the village receiving a small wind turbine and LED road lighting. In additon, there are a large number of recreational cottages and many part-time residents who actively participate in the village’s social life. Concepts such as togetherness, community spirit, future thinking, sustainable eco-development and respect for nature, are ideas the villagers keep close to their hearts. Services: • Rental cottage and guest pier with sauna, shower and washing machine • Cabin, barbecue, notice board and waste station, as well as ramp for launching and winching up small boats.

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• Lolas Service offers catering, whilst Lolas Taxi has two hybrid cars. • Janne Gröning, nature photographer and eco-producer. • Henna Tala, physiotherapist. • Keistiö’s former school now serves as a meeting room. • Village trail with 14 signpoints telling about the farms and locations. • Road connecting with the Dalen-Keistiö ferry. Attractions: • Keistiö school museum. • Midsummer pole, windmill and pavilion on the Midsummar hill. • Tomtekullens labyrinth. • Insjön Friskon. Events: • The midsummer pole is decorated on midsummer’s eve. • Keistiö Day is celebrated the Saturday after midsummer. • Fornelds Market is arranged on the last Saturday in August. • At least one recurring music festival: singalong/concert.

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LEONELLA For nearly 35 years Leonella has served the locals, summerguests and tourists with food and drinks. Seen Emmerdale? Its just like that, only without all the drama! We are very proud to start a new chapter as the restaurant’s keepers on season 2018 and we welcome you to experience Iniö the same way we do: As a charming place with wonderful people and stories. It all comes together at our terrace!

LEONELLA

Welcome!

Merideli Leonella · Norrby guest dock, Iniö tel: +358 40 5905794 · e-mail: info.leonella@gmail.com

MERIDELI

INIÖ

Jukka Torikka peeks through the doorway of his Little Block Museum. He considers himself a collector.

TS/Jane Iltanen

The Pulley Block Museum – A Maritime Passion

The island of Iniö probably boasts Finland’s only pulley block museum. Although unable to verify, it is possible this may be the only one of its kind in the world. ukka Torikka, from Iniö, opens the door to an old shed and turns on the lights. Before us a small room opens up with many pulley blocks neatly on display. These are helpful tools used to lift loads and apply force, and in nautical terms are just referred to as ‘blocks’. They are made from a tackle and two blocks. Torikka began to take an interest in the blocks about 30 years ago. It started when he saw a picture of a block in a magazine called Avotakka. They had used a block to make a lamp. “Of course I wanted to have one myself. I got two of the blocks and pulled a power cable between them. The shades

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I made from tarred flax. The lamps are still in use.” After this Torikka started to collect blocks of different ranges. The block collector has searched for them on the Internet, in second-hand stores, in flea markets and other places that sell old goods. Often friends and acquaintances have brought blocks to Torikka. Since Torikka has accumulated a bit over 100 blocks over time, some years ago he decided to catalogue them. Thus began the Little Block Museum. A place to display the collection already existed. “I sacrificed one of the guest

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In the Little Block Museum over 200 blocks of various sizes, ages and appearances are displayed.

TS/Jane Iltanen

rooms to use for the museum,” laughs Torikka. With his wife he runs the Bodgård Bed & Breakfast, a popular accommodation on Iniö for those travelling around the Archipelago Trail. It was easy to open a museum in one of the rooms when facilities were already there. “I organised the blocks during the winter and then opened the museum.” Last spring the Little Block Museum was enlarged with Torikka making the room especially for the museum. “Now we have five guest rooms left,” says Torikka. Torikka originally comes from Häme but moved to Iniö in 1999 when he bought his current farm near Iniö’s church. “At that time there were only cornfields.” Over the years the farm has grown to include several buildings. Torikka and his wife live in the main building, which was completed in 2004 and is the place where guests are served breakfast. “I got the inspiration to go into the hotel business while being dog-sitter for our friends from Velkua who were on holiday. They provided accommodation services on their farm and I thought about doing it myself as I already had some experience in this area,” Torikka explains. Collector Torikka has brought a big dose of Häme’s rural atmosphere to the archipelago. Inside the main building there is a big living room with a large oven and a rustic dining table. It is clear that at least 14 sturdy men could enjoy breakfast at the table without the slightest inconvenience. Open shelves with hanging spoons and rye bread hanging out to dry from the ceiling on a bread-rack, enhance the farmhouse feeling. “I have brought a lot of stuff with me from my family farm,” says Torikka.

The Little Block Museum draws fascination from tourists, although Torikka modestly notes that he has barely done any advertising. The museum’s operation was not a reason in itself for opening the museum. “The most important objective was to bring a semblance of order to my collection.” Torikka has received some support and expert assistance from the Maritime Museum in Rauma. “The director of the Maritime Museum, Hannu Vartiainen, has created an information board about the blocks for display on the museum wall.” Torikka manages the collection of artefacts gently and with care. Each block has a serial number displaying the order and date on which Torikka has acquired them. The blocks have also been catalogued with a text description about the origin of each along with other details for all 238 blocks. Torikka is particularly pleased with a replica-careening block made by Kalle Blomqvist. With the help of a careening block even large sailing boats could be heeled to one side for cleaning and repairs to the hull. “Careening blocks are very rare. It would be nice to get a genuine careening block included in the collection,” says Torikka. Although Torikka already has many in his collection, he admits it is his ambition to acquire more. “A collector is never really satisfied,” he concludes. This article was originally published in Turun Sanomat in the special section TS Saaristo (archipelago) at their website: saaristo.ts.fi At TS Saaristo there are free archipelago-related articles about the Pargas Archipelago, so check out:  saaristo.ts.fi

#visitarchipelago

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Tourist information in the archipelago Travel agents and booking of guides in the archipelago The Archipelago Booking of Finland +358(0)2-4106600, www.skargardsbokning.fi Travel Agency Saaritours +358(0)45-1236660, www.saaritours.fi/saaristo Visitturku +358(0)2-2627444, www.visitturku.fi Visit Naantali +358(0)2-4359800, www.visitnaantali.com Hannas horisont, UTÖ +358(0)400-143814, www.uto.fi

Archipelago Tourist Information Strandvägen 28, Pargas (Parainen), +358(0)400117123, info@pargas.fi, www.visitarchipelago.com

PARGAS

Pargas Tourist Information Strandvägen 28, Pargas +358(0)400117123 info@pargas.fi, www.visitarchipelago.com

NAGU

Harbour Info Point (summer) Strandstigen 2, Nagu +358(0)400117123, info@pargas.fi, www.visitarchipelago.com The Archipelago Booking of Finland Sähkömäki 1, Nauvo, +358(0)2-4106600 info@suomensaaristovaraus.fi, www.suomensaaristovaraus.fi

KORPPOO DAG-15 Korppoontie 2, www.dag15.com, +358(0)400117123, info@parainen.fi, www.saaristo.org

HOUTSKÄR

VisitArchipelago Rengastie Visit Archipelago Finland VisitArchipelag

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#VisitArchipelago #saaristonrengastie Area code +358 (0)

KIMITÖ ISLANDS info@kimitoon.fi, +358(0)2-4260170 Villa Lande Engelsbyntie 8, Tallimäentie, Taalintehdas (summer), www.visitkimitoon.fi

TURKU Visit Turku Tourist Information Aurakatu 4, +358(0)2-2627444 info@visitturku.fi, www.visitturku.fi Sales +358(0)2-2627900 sales@visitturku.fi, http://www.visitturku.fi/en/groups

KAARINA Kaarina Tourist Information Lautakunnankatu 1, Kaarina, +358(0)2-5884010 yhteispalvelupiste@kaarina.fi, www.visitkaarina.fi

Näsby Info Point (summer) +358(0)400117123, info@pargas.fi, www.visitarchipelago.com

INIÖ Leonella, Norrby hamn, Iniö, +358(0)405905794, info.leonella@gmail.com

KUSTAVI

Keskuskatu 7, (summer) +358(0)2-8426600, +358(0)2-8426620, matkailuneuvonta@kustavi.fi, www.kustavi.fi

TAIVASSALO

Keskustie 9, +358(0)2-8402000, info@taivassalo.fi, www.taivassalo.fi

NAANTALI

Visit Naantali Tourist Information Nunnakatu 2, +358 (0)2 435 9800 info@visitnaantali.com, www.visitnaantali.com

UUSIKAUPUNKI

+358(0)504205333, matkailu@uusikaupunki.fi, Rauhankatu 10, +358(0)504205329, visituusikaupunki.fi