THE REVOLUTIONARY FATE OF FASHION

The Revolutionary

BY SOPHIE COLLONGETTE

AS LEADERS, IT IS THEIR RESPONSIBILITY TO CENTER INCLUSION, REPRESENTATION AND DIVERSITY IN THEIR BRANDS.

When Marie Antoinette said let them eat cake, she enraged the French peasantry, whereby she not only lost her throne but also her head. She was canceled — permanently. From royal extravagance to public revolutions, monarchical downfalls have often unraveled, reflecting the power of communal bravery over materialism. In a similar upturning of structure, the fashion world rages revolution against industry leaders who have imposed an unattainable goal of perfection, challenging authority and raising questions about the values that shape our culture.

Fate of Fashion

The fashion sphere has experienced many revolutions within itself. The 2000s have ushered in sustainability, LGBTQ inclusion, the fashion and race database, fashion-based television and more. These expanded the role and influence of underrepresented communities, reflecting fashion’s thirst for change. The post-pandemic e-commerce escalation left many contemplating the fate of fashion in 2021 and beyond. This controversial speculation of the unknown grasped the attention of millions worldwide, evoking critical conversations about fashion standards, societal pressures and institutionalized art affecting our societal well-being. With technological platforms dominating the entertainment and fashion industries, high-end designers and small-business owners have quickly adapted to meet the demands of modern media.

With the future’s uncertainty, one can only help but ponder the following: Who has the power to influence trends and leverage authority in the fashion industry after an unprecedented year like 2020? The answer: high-profile “royals,” better known today as celebrities and influencers with immense social media followings.

Fashion hit an inflection point in 2020. The McKinsey & Company’s “The State of Fashion 2021” report revealed the industry experienced a record low in profits, forcing businesses to create more efficient brand platforms, and alter strategies to maintain relevance and market share, hence a rise in influencer marketing.

When you need outfit inspiration, where do you turn? Pinterest. Instagram. TikTok. Who are the trendsetters on these apps? Bella Hadid. Luka Sabbat. Kylie Jenner. What are they wearing? Who are they wearing? Take Marc Jacobs, who debuted a Y2K-inspired clothing collaboration with Devon Lee Carlson showcasing her funky style abundant with staples from the 2000s and sentimental treasures. On the other hand, Dua Lipa, a singer, not a high-fashion model, opened and closed Donatella Versace’s Spring-Summer 2022 Campaign for Milan Fashion Week. Influencer culture has merged celebrity worlds, generating immediate audience attraction, both garnering support and criticism from the public.

Controversies consistently circle influencers invited to the Met Gala, a traditionally exclusive event for opinion leaders in the fashion industry, not upcoming influencers who Gen Z praise for their saucy dance moves and “trendy” fashion sense. How is this symbolic of a shift in the business? Their roles in a prestigious event like the Met Gala could be a ploy to attract more viewers and generate buzz among younger generations. Yet, there is also a notable element of ease and inclusion when inviting such influencers to high-fashion soirees. Their appearances open a door for more diversity among Met Gala attendees, attracting more youth to fashion than previous years.

Evidently, the dynamics and values of the fashion industry have evolved from an artistic to a more “business-like” operation. Younger generations catalyzed this new approach as cancel culture struck fashion brands in the bull’s-eye. Their passionate discussions of ethical issues in the industry draw extensive attention and support toward smaller creatives with mission-based businesses and lifestyles. In light of social unrest, Gen Z has advocated for supporting small businesses and purchasing sustainable goods over fast-fashion brands. Social media accounts like Diet Prada garnered a following for outwardly criticizing and exposing large fashion companies’ exploitation methods against small-scale creators and their unique fashion concepts. Many notable designers faced backlash against collection pieces they claimed were “inspired” by said creators, yet they looked identical, distinguishable only by their stitched brand logos. Public outrage challenged large companies to reevaluate how their misuse of power negatively affects microenterprises and minimizes their profits and recognition.

Authenticity has never been more valuable and respectable than it is now in the digital age when images are manipulated, and false personas are portrayed with ease. The growing emphasis on social justice and mental wellness has inspired consumers to hold designers and business owners accountable. As leaders, it is their responsibility to center inclusion, representation and diversity in their brands.

Transposing her talents from the studio to the workroom, Rihanna rewrote fashion and beauty guidelines to uphold these principles. Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty lingerie collections and runway shows are a revolt against exclusive beauty standards. Her collection launched in 2018, and she continued to break boundaries through her beauty and fashion lines in the following years — specifically throughout 2020, an unconventional year for fashion designers. The 33-year-old superstar has taken the opportunity to spread impactful messages of inclusivity, community, political activism, self-love and freedom of expression through her brands. The lingerie label represents a glimpse into what many believe the fashion industry should have been doing for years now and what it ought to embody going forward.

With this in mind, the question remains: Is fashion becoming a fusion of our authenticity rather than an industry controlled by a few gatekeepers? It’s difficult to answer definitively, but it’s fair to say major designers will always uphold their aura of power and exclusivity. In previous years, their sole existence revolved around the “unattainable factor” and mystery behind being on the “inside” of this glamorous world — a facade. However, reflecting on the past decade, society has started infiltrating the realm of fashion, instituting a more progressive and inclusive environment where meaningful representation is celebrated.

The future of high fashion is a puzzle waiting to be solved by its players. Who will be the next person to lead a revolt against industry standards? Will influencers soon be too attainable or generic for the next fashion fads? Will their “royal” status be stripped away because of scandal and exposure? Their “let them eat cake” moment may transpire sooner than expected.