Wildtravel 12/14 by StStilinski

WILDTRAVEL Destinations include >>

ST LUCIA

LANCASHIRE

COSTA RICA

LINDISFARNE

Enjoy the world’s most amazing animals

How to have a close encounter with a hippo

Amazing images of the world’s fastest cat

St Lucia: beach meets rainforest teeming with life Bargain Highland wildlife holiday

The icy world of Polar Bears, Ivory Gulls and Narwhals

Dec 2014 £3.99 wildlifeextra.com

Where to see Britain’s best wildlife in

The boxing between Brown Hares takes place around Britain in the mating season

WELCOME Contributors

Stephen Moss Author and film producer Stephen writes about his passion for British wildlife

Sophie Stafford

Welcome!

Taking boating to another level, Sophie paddles a canoe in Botswana

If you have never been to the Farne Islands during the summer breeding season, I’d like to encourage you to make a date for 2015. The experience is an assault on all your senses – in the very best of ways – and the birdlife is possibly some of the most accessible in Britain. The rocky terrain in the centre of Inner Farne is chock-a-block with the nests of Arctic Terns that dive bomb you (take a hat) and Eider Ducks that sit on their nests resting their chins on the boardwalks. Meanwhile, every crevice of the cliffs around the fringes is stacked with courting Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills, Shags, and the occasional Gannet pair. On the short boat trip from the harbour at Seahouses you can witness Gannets galore, plunging into the waves around the boat, and Grey Seals bobbing up to the surface to give you the once over. In the seas close to the islands there are rafts of seabirds diving for food for their chicks or fronds of seaweed to decorate their nests. In fact, in the case of the cliff-dwellers, almost anything will be employed in nest building including, when I last visited, the blue boundary rope the National Trust wardens had put up to keep visitors away from the nests closest to the pathways, and an electric cable belonging to a film crew that was making a documentary about the seabird colony. With 37,000 pairs of Puffins alone, it is British wildlife at its most abundant and impressive. The sight is overwhelming, the sound deafening, and the smell... interesting.

Sheena Harvey, Acting Editor

COVER IMAGE: © STEVE LINDRIDGE/ALAMY

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To contact editorial Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB ; Tel: 01242 211 080 Email: editorial@wildtravelmag.com EDITOR Sheena Harvey EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Debbie Graham DESIGNER Steve Rayner With thanks to Sam Stocks ARCHANT SPECIALIST MANAGING DIRECTOR Peter Timperley; peter.timperley@archant.co.uk For customer services Tel: 01242 216 002; Email: sylvie.wheatley@ archant.co.uk, or estelle.iles@archant.co.uk Printing William Gibbons ISSN 2048-2485

© Archant Specialist 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of Archant Ltd. Although every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this publication is correct at the time of going to press, we cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience however caused. For the latest travel and health information on all destinations covered in the magazine, go to www.fco.gov.uk

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Suzi Eszterhas Suzi’s amazing images of Cheetahs give great insight into their family lives

Laurie Campbell If you want to photograph otters, you need too get to know them, says Laurie

On the cover...

Cover image: a Puffin in amongst the sea thrift on the Shetland Islands

DECEMBER 2014 3

Contents Features

29 Home or away? From watching winter waterbirds in Scotland to exploring the tropical jungles of Costa Rica, we list some of the best wildlife watching for the month of December

34 Trip report: Selinda Reserve Sophie Stafford encounters Hippos, crocodiles and more as she paddles down Botswana’s Selinda Spillway on the famous Okavango Delta

54 Anatomy of a Three-toed Sloth Find out why this curious animal is so unique in the animal kingdom

56 Gallery: Cheetahs Photographer Suzi Eszterhas shares her intimate images that provide a glimpse into the lives of Cheetahs in Namibia from her new book A Future for Cheetahs

46 Take me there: St Lucia

64 Trip report: Greenland

Home to colourful tropical birds and exciting marine animals, Lauren Jarvis discovers why this Caribbean island is not just a paradise for holiday-goers, but for wildlife as well

Steve Newman explores the highlights of Greenland’s Arctic wilderness, discovering Polar Bears and Narwhal

4 DECEMBER 2014

(ʽʑQʤLɪɗ

BRITAIN

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From national parks to private gardens Britain is teeming with wildlife, so wherever you are you can enjoy great wildlife encounters

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From the rugged Shetland Islands to the temperate shores of Cornwall, our diverse wildlife can be found in every corner

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Every season has its own wildlife highlight. Our calendar is your month-by-month guide to Britain’s most exciting wildlife

Regulars 10 Wild world We review the latest images from the world of wildlife, from the island of Madagascar to Britain’s gardens, as well as conservation news and wildlife-watching tours

20 Wild UK 23

Inspiration for UK days out, from the many wild delights of Lindisfarne to the arrival of wintering wildfowl at Lancashire’s Martin Mere

97 The knowledge Our experts detail how to build a dry stone wall, what to do if you find yourself the unwilling meal of a leech, and how best to photograph wild otters

106 Column: Confessions of a wildlife traveller When it comes to seeing wildlife, you’ll find you get more out of your experience if you put more in, says Mike Unwin

Departments 29

03 Editor’s welcome 06 Inbox Our selection of the latest comments, tweets, photos and wildlife stories we’ve received

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DECEMBER 2014 5

InBox

Send us your thoughts on the magazine, wildlife travel pictures and recommendations, or stories of your own wildlife encounters. The author of our favourite letter, picture and story will receive a brilliant wildlife book

Winning letter Sleeping giant During a visit to Malawi’s Liwonde National Park, I was taking pictures of the nearby Cormorants in the trees by the side of the Shire River at Mvuu, and I was well aware of the many crocodiles in the river. However, I wanted to get a better shot of the birds and didn’t notice any crocs as I moved around to the side of the riverbank. After taking a number of pictures I looked behind me at the river, and spotted this guy lying about three metres away. He was particularly large at about five or six metres. A few days earlier I had witnessed a territorial dispute between two of these reptiles and seen the speed at which they can move, and I knew it wouldn’t take it any time at all to get to me. I carefully backed away, but I

No to grouse shooting Naturalist Chris Packham and Andrew Gilruth from the Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust voiced their opinions about grouse shooting on our website. Their views stirred strong emotions in some of our readers: I have tremendous admiration for Chris Packham, but I am slightly disappointed with his apparent willingness to accept cruelty on a selective basis. It may be that liberal compromise is no longer acceptable regarding this debate, partly because for many naturalists and lovers of wildlife, grouse shooting is a cruel anachronism in modern society. Many of us find it distressing, if not abhorrent, especially the way that lack of

6 DECEMBER 2014

couldn’t resist grabbing an image during my retreat. Luckily, I think it remained asleep throughout my encounter. I mentioned it to the guide

compassion for any animal that was born a predator leads to an unnecessary and often cruel death so that an elite can gain pleasure from killing wild creatures in the name of tradition. The same cannot be said for those of us who know how to enjoy nature and appreciate wildlife in a harmless manner. As a society we are becoming more aware of the environmental damage caused to peatlands and wildlife due to the high intensity management and disruption to ecosystems of heather moorland habitat. Andrew Gilruth’s assertion that moor owners have preserved pristine natural habitat is naive and simply not true. Those of us who have any insight to the ingrained culture of the wildlife killers

the next day. He laughed and said, “I know that croc. He often hangs out there in the afternoons.” Bob Brewer, via email

and the attitudes of most gamekeepers know that the illegal persecution of Hen Harriers and other birds of prey is not going to end. The time for compromise is over, and we should aim to create a more civilised society by protecting wildlife and wild places for all to enjoy. The e-petition to ban driven

grouse shooting in England is a step in the right direction, as are proposals to suspend grouse shooting licences. Iain Gibson, via website Read Chris Packham and Andrew Gilruth’s opinions on grouse shooting at our website: www.wildlifeextra.com/go/ news/great-grouse-debate.html

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InBox 1

Your photos This month’s selection of photos from our Flickr site 1 Lunch-time: Myron Tay got a great close-up shot of a colourful Stork-billed Kingfisher enjoying its crayfish dinner in Singapore 2 A Graceful Chameleon resting on a twig in Nakaseke, Uganda, captured the eye of photographer Denis D’Arbela 3 Mario Nonaka captured a hungry Grizzly Bear feeding on salmon in Orford River, British Columbia 4 An early evening doze? Jon Isaacs got a great, atmospheric photograph of a Leopard taking a cat nap after a successful kill 5 Iain Fazackerley’s lovely reflective image of a Red Squirrel gathering hazelnuts in Hawes, North Yorkshire

To upload your own image, or view and comment on those already there, visit www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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Winning image

DECEMBER 2014 7

InBox Your stories

Two of our readers have experienced exciting encounters with birds of prey My girlfriend and I are familiar with a variety of birds of prey including all three species of buzzard. At the very end of August we were visiting Cornwall, and whilst lost in our van on the edge of Bodmin Moor we were crawling up a narrow wooded lane at the side of a stream. My girlfriend suddenly said, “Stop! There’s a huge bird.” I stopped and we both stared. The bird was sitting on a branch spanning the lane and looking back at us. It had the characteristic plumage of a Golden Eagle, with none of the distinctive markings of a buzzard or looks of a Red Kite. It was enormous. After five seconds, it spread its wings and flew away to a higher branch. Its

wingspan was 12 to 18 inches wider than a buzzard. My girlfriend, who is a bit of an ornithologist, was gobsmacked! Richard O’Casey, via website I have often observed several buzzards flying together in North Herefordshire, but a few weeks ago, while driving into Alban in the Tarn area of France, I saw a large number of big birds wheeling around in the sky. When we arrived at our campsite, I discovered that most of the activity was taking place in a field next to us. I estimated there must have been more than 80 buzzards there. They divided their time by roosting in the

From the website Blow for birds Our news story reporting the approval of four offshore wind farms on the Firth of Forth was met with disappointment The Firth of Forth is of European importance to thousands of sea birds. Have all other possible sites been researched? Surely the environmental cost has to be quantified and taken into account when feasibility studies are carried out. The Scottish government needs to think again! Roger Little, via website

Devastating development News that development plans in New South Wales threaten the critically endangered Regent Honeyeater sparked outrage Australia’s record of protecting wildlife is atrocious. We have the most wonderful, unique wildlife and we’re losing too many species. Even our iconic Koala is declining rapidly due habitat destruction to allow an ever-increasing suburban sprawl. When will our governments start to look beyond the dollar sign and realise the importance of protecting both habitats and wildlife? Annelise Howes, via website 8 DECEMBER 2014

trees at the far end of the field, flying high in the sky, or standing in the field. You could get within a hundred yards of them, but any closer and they would all fly away. Apparently, large family groups of buzzards flock together during the autumn, but I have never seen anything like this. Malcolm Baxter, via website

Trending: Political circus After the proposed ban on wild animals from UK circuses was blocked for a third time, we asked two politicians, Andrew Rosindell MP who opposes the ban and Jim Fitzpatrick MP who supports it, their opinions (see www.wildlifeextra.com/go/news/UK-circus-debate.html). We asked you who you agreed with. Here are your responses: For the ban: I agree with Jim Fitzpatrick unequivocally. Dawn Scholes via Facebook Wild animals are not for our entertainment! Sharan Shesh Gorringe via Facebook I agree entirely with Jim Fitzpatrick. Keeping wild animals in circuses is cruel. Linda Hocking via Facebook Against the ban: A circus is not complete without animals. Adam Kean via Twitter

Getting in touch EMAIL: editorial@wildtravelmag.com PHONE: 01242 211 080 FACEBOOK: www.facebook.com/wildtravelmag TWITTER: @wild_travel We welcome your letters but reserve the right to edit them. Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published)

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Birds of prey aplenty

Madagascar

Vive la différence

With so many unique and unusual species (such as the Crowned Lemur seen here in Bemaraha National Park), Madagascar has long been a curiosity of the world. An impressive 90 per cent of the country’s animals are found nowhere else on the planet. Now, a new joint study by two US universities has revealed that there is no single explanation for what created Madagascar’s bogglingly unique array of wildlife, but that it came about due to a combination of circumstances, with each endemic species owing its individuality to how it has responded over time to different environmental fluctuations. These findings will help to identify which species that will be most at risk from climate change and which to the effects of land use in the country in the future, and what can best be done to protect them.

Wildworld Latest visions from the world of wildlife

India

Deadly dining

ÂŠ JOHN HOLMES/FLPA

Populations of the Asian White-rumped Vulture (Gyps bengalensis) suffered catastrophic declines in India due to the veterinary use of the antiinflammatory drug diclofenac, which the birds ingested from cattle carcasses and which caused renal failure. This had a measurable effect on the hygienic clearance of dead animals from the countryside. Since the drugâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s use on animals was banned in 2006, vulture numbers have been recovering. However, it is estimated that six per cent of carcasses are still contaminated because diclofenac for human use is sold in vials large enough to treat animals. To combat this, conservationists are calling for a South Asia-wide ban on the drug in vials larger than 3ml.

Kenya

Down to six

The recent death of Suni, a 34-year-old Northern White Rhino male, has left the species teetering even more precariously on the brink of extinction, with only six of the Northern Whites remaining in the world and only one breeding male. Suni was one of four Northern White Rhinos residing on Ol Pejeta Conservancy, a not-for-profit organisation in Kenya’s Laikipia County that works to protect the rhino. Here their horns are removed to protect them against poaching. A reason for Suni’s sudden and unexpected death has not yet been established, and a post-mortem is planned to determine the cause.

Wildworld

China

Over the moon

Actress Olivia Newton-John is the latest in the growing list of celebrities who have adopted a Moon Bear rescued by Animals Asia from bear bile farms. The bear, also named Olivia, suffered infections and trauma at the hands of the farm, but is expected to make a full recovery. Olivia is one of 130 bears rescued by the charity in what was the biggest bear rescue in history. They are now being cared for at Animals Asia’s new bear sanctuary in Nanning.

Admirable Admiral It was a good summer for Red Admiral Butterflies in the UK, with the highest numbers being reported in Britain’s gardens for more than four years. As well as appearing earlier in the year, thanks to the milder weather we have been experiencing, Red Admirals are staying longer, with unprecedented numbers being recorded right up until early October.

Shorts New species

Our roundup of the latest news, discoveries and tours that have got the wildlife world talking. For more, sign up to our weekly e-newsletter at www.wildlifeextra.com

United States

Hope for lions

A new species of leopard frog has been identified in the urban jungle of New York City and surrounding coastal areas. The Atlantic Coast Leopard Frog inhabits a narrow coastal lowland area from central Connecticut to northeast North Carolina. Although the frog looks similar to two other known species, its distinctly different call caught the attention of Rutgers University PhD student Jeremy Feinburg, lead author of the paper describing the discovery. Along with its unique call, genetic testing confirmed that the leopard frog was a new species.

27 By numbers

Hawaii

HAWAII’S NET INCOME Some 57-tonnes of marine debris – consisting mainly of fishing nets and plastic waste – was recently removed from waters surrounding the World Heritage listed Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument in Hawaii by divers from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) during their annual cleanup mission. The area encompasses 140,000 square miles and includes 10 islands and atolls of the North-

18 DECEMBER 2014

rule was also proposed, requiring permits for the import of sport-hunted lion trophies such as the animals’ skins and heads. The rule states that permits should only be issued for lions originating from countries that have scientifically sound management plans in place for the species. This is an important step toward the protection of African lions, and with an estimated fewer than 32,000 remaining in the wild, it could prove to be crucial.

new vertebrate species found in Tanzania’s Eastern Arc Mountains SOURCE: MUSE SCIENCE MUSEUM

western Hawaiian Islands, which are home to more than 7,000 marine species, including Hawaiian Monk Seals, 14 million seabirds, rare land birds, and Green Turtles. The Pacific waters are the habitat of 5,178 square miles of rich coral reefs, and it is estimated that 52 metric tonnes of derelict fishing gear accumulates in these waters each year. As well as being a threat to wildlife, which can become entangled, the discarded nets are harmful to the reefs as they break and damage the corals and can smother them when they settle, preventing further growth. After the nets are removed, they will be put to good use as fuel to generate electricity as part of Hawaii’s Nets to Energy partnership with Coventa Energy and Schnitzer Steel.

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BURRARD-LUCAS, GETTY IMAGES/FUSE

NEW YORK NEW FROG

With the number of wild lions in Africa down by more than 50 per cent in the past 30 years, and more than half of the lion trophies taken out of Africa arriving in the United States each year, the US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) has proposed listing African lions as threatened under America’s Endangered Species Act. The motion follows a petition submitted by Born Free USA, Humane Society International (HSI), the Humane Society of the United States, and the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) along with other animal protection groups. Along with the listing, a new special

US Government moves to put restrictions in place for trophy hunters returning from Africa

Wildworld Myanmar

Caught on camera Red Pandas have been filmed in Myanmar for the first time by scientists from Fauna and Flora International (FFI). Two Red Pandas were seen in the mixed bamboo and conifer forests of the Imawbum mountain range of Kachin state in the country’s far northeast. The footage, which can be seen at www.youtube. com/watch?v=GVZyN3R6BRk, shows them walking along a rocky landslide caused by

Chinese logging into the shelter of felled trees. The pandas – which are classed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List – are under threat from hunting, wildlife trade, and illegal logging. Almost 50 per cent of the animals’ habitat is in the Eastern Himalayas, stretching from Nepal to central China. While they remain rare in other parts of the Burmese Himalayas, they are living in Imawbum in high density. To help sustain Red Pandas in the wild, FFI has set up a conservation programme to increase awareness by indigenous people of the need to protect them, while supporting Myanmar Forest Department to designate a newly protected area, Imawbum National Park.

New tours

JAIL BIRDS

Meet Morocco’s birds

England has the highest rate of bird crime in the UK The RSPB’s 2013 Birdcrime report reveals the scale of bird crime in the UK. Last year saw 164 reports of the shooting of birds of prey, and 74 reports of poisoning of the birds. Of these, two Hen Harriers, two Marsh Harriers, five Peregrine Falcons and 28 buzzards were confirmed to have been shot, while 30 buzzards, 20 Red Kites, a Golden Eagle and a Whitetailed Eagle were found to have been the victims of poisoning. In addition to these crimes, there were 14 incidents of nests being robbed – which included a case involving the robbery of at least 50

Little Tern nests – and 20 reports of the illegal taking, possession, or sale of birds of prey. The majority of the crimes took place in England, where 54 per cent of the incidents were reported. Meanwhile Scotland saw 27 per cent of crimes reported, Wales was responsible for 10 per cent and Northern Ireland for eight per cent.

Micro-life

Philippine Tarsier One of the world’s smallest primates, the Philippine Tarsier is endemic to the Islands, where it is found only in the country’s southeastern regions. These nocturnal acrobats are perfectly adapted to life in the forest and are able to leap with ease from tree to tree. During the day the tarsier sleeps in hollows close to the ground. Philippine Tarsiers are unique amongst mammals, having the biggest eyes relative to their body weight of any mammal. The tiny primates measure only about 9 to 16 cm (3.5 to 6 inches) in length, with males weighing between 0.2 to 0.4 lbs. Sadly, the Philippine Tarsier is isted as Near Threatened on the IUCN Red List.

The Magical Birdwatching tour coincides with the spring migration, promising over 120 bird species. Birding expert, author and wildlife TV producer Stephen Moss leads the journey from Agadir to the Sahara Desert and the Atlas Mountains. The tour includes a pair of Swarovski Optic binoculars on loan to each guest. Cost: from £3,185 When: 12-19 March 2015 www.cazloyd.com

Visit China’s pandas A family holiday that takes in all that’s quintessentially China: the Terracotta Warriors, the Great Wall, the Forbidden City and the Giant Panda. Starting in Beijing you will journey through China to Hong Kong, stopping at Chengdu to visit the Giant Panda Research Centre. Cost: from £1,749 (incl accommodation and meals) When: March to August 2015 www.exodus.co.uk

Go on primate safari This 10-day safari in Uganda allows you access to all areas of the national parks, giving you the opportunity to see the conservation work going on behind the scenes. Cost: £4,596 When: 26 September to 5 October www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk DECEMBER 2014 19

Wildlife weekends

Hoary and Holy A

perfect winter morning: azure sky, warm sun, crisp chill. Frost encases grass blades, throws hoary armour around berry-laden bushes and fringes a sedge with crystalline comb-teeth. Light so sharp that it slices the air. And air so still... until disturbed by a delicate trilling. Sailing in on triangular wings, a flock of Waxwing lands on the cotoneaster and, without ceremony, devours its bright fruits. With mohican and mascara, these pink punks are posers. A Scandinavian start to a Northumberland weekend fresh with northern delights. In a ‘Waxwing winter’, crop failure forces these berry-eaters to flee northern climes and they head southwards. They may pop up anywhere – from urban centres to coastal hedgerows. So keep alert for Waxwings in a weekend of rocky shorelines and sandy bays featuring one of Britain’s rarest geese, strings of seaduck and marine mammals. And all of these are centred on

20 DECEMBER 2014

an island of cultural significance. The Holy Island of Lindisfarne has been enshrined in Christian history since the 7th century. Its serenity – a result of tiny human population and geographic isolation – renders it as inspirational a location for a wildlife retreat as for its religious equivalent. Tide times govern your visit. The tarmac causeway connecting island and mainland is inaccessible for at least the four hours flanking peak water. But don’t rush your trip across; the causeway excels for birding, particularly either side of the refuge tower. Waders – notably Bar-tailed Godwit and Grey Plover – forage on the sands, and Red-breasted Merganser, with its spiky coiffure, swim the channels. The undoubted highlight is Pale-bellied Brent Goose – a separate,scarcer subspecies to Brent Goose, which occurs both here and more widely. The 3,000 Pale-bellied birds emanate from Svalbard’s declining breeding population and winter almost

nowhere else in Britain. Holy Island itself combines wilderness and waterbirds, with plenty of areas to explore. The southeast of the island is arguably best in winter. ‘Rocket Field’ offers close views of Brent Goose, particularly at high tide. Hundreds of Wigeon, Teal, Common Redshank, Lapwing and Golden Plover assemble here, providing more than passing interest to Peregrines. A daintier falcon – Merlin – also hunts the island, its dashing wizardry bamboozling pipits. You could spot a quartering Barn Owl anywhere, but will find Sanderling only sprinting along shorelines. From the Heugh, south of the priory, look for Grey Seal and the odd Harbour Seal prostrate on sandbanks. Scan sea and harbour for Slavonian and perhaps Red-necked Grebe, Red-throated and Great Northern Divers, Long-tailed Duck and Eider. The last of these is known locally as ‘Cuddy’s Duck’ in honour of St Cuthbert, famed local saint. Should the sea be out,

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A trip to Northumberland in December will reward you with Pale-bellied Brent Geese, Long-tailed Ducks, Slavonian Grebes, Waxwings and Little Auk, writes James Lowen

WildUK Spotterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide

Winter berries

ÂŠ PETE HOLMES, MARGARET BARTON, JOHN WEBB, ILENE STERNS, SARAH BONHAM

Emma Bonham from The Woodland Trust picks six winter berries to look out for this month, including a few of the familiar festive favourites that will be seen decorating many homes this month

Dog rose Rosa canina Bright red rose hips can be seen on this scrambling shrub. The oval shaped berries (15-20mm) have a smooth, shiny outer skin and form in small clusters. Each hip contains many seeds. Dog roses are distributed throughout the British Isles and are most commonly found in hedgerows, woodland edges and scrub. Rose hips are high in vitamin C and were traditionally used to make a syrup which was taken to boost vitamin levels. When: From October

Blackthorn Prunus spinosa Although technically not a berry, the sloe is the fruit of the blackthorn and a favourite of hedgerow foragers. Protected by thorns, the large blue-black fruits (up to 15mm) form individually and often have a white powdery surface bloom. The flesh surrounds a single hard coated seed. Blackthorn is common across Britain and can be found in hedgerows, scrub and woods. It is the exclusive food plant of Black and Brown Hairstreak Butterflies. When: September-December

Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn is readily seen in woods, scrub and hedgerows. Known as haws, the berries are small (up to 10mm) and round in shape. A deep red colour, the fruits appear in small clusters at the ends of long red stems. Hawthorn can be found all over the British Isles, although it is rarely found in northern Scotland. The haws are rich in antioxidants and are eaten by many migrating birds such as Redwings and starlings. When: early winter

Ivy Hedera helix A Christmas decoration favourite. Ivy is found throughout Britain and can be seen in woods, hedgerows and scrub, climbing over trees, rocks and walls. Ivy berries are small (6-8mm) and emerge in groups above the foliage. The berries are a dark purple-black with a matt finish and can often look streaked with purple. Whilst toxic to humans, ivy berries are eaten safely by a range of birds such as thrushes, blackbirds and jays. When: November-January

Holly Ilex aquifolium Another seasonal staple, holly berries form in small groups along the branches. The small (7-10mm), round, bright scarlet fruits have a glossy finish and contain up to 10 seeds. Holly is very common in Britain, though absent from the Scottish Highlands. A small tree or shrub holly forms an understory in many woods and is often seen in scrub and hedgerows. The berries are a vital late winter source of food for birds and small mammals. When: throughout winter

Mistletoe Viscum album A parasitic shrub on various trees including apples, limes and hawthorn, mistletoe is mainly seen in England in the South, the West Midlands, and eastern Wales. It is uncommon in the North and very rare in Scotland. The Mistletoe berries are a pale white with a waxy surface. The small (up to 10mm) round fruits form in groups of between two and six. Inside each berry is a sticky pulp, which enables the seeds to adhere to a host plant. When: all winter

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DECEMBER 2014 23

Left: Whooper Swans and Shelducks enjoying feeding time at Martin Mere. Above: a female Hooded Merganser bathing. Below: the stunning Harrier Hide at Martin Mere

Tour of Britain

Martin Mere Wetland Centre Martin Mere reserve on England’s North West coast is undoubtedly one of the best places in the UK to see wintering wildfowl, which visit in their thousands Wildlife

Martin Mere, run by the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust (WWT), is one of the UK’s most important wetlands. The reserve covers 350 acres of marshland, and includes visitor attractions such as a beaver lodge, an otter enclosure, and an eco-garden. But its real highlight is the spectacle of huge flocks of migratory wildfowl arriving for winter.

Martin Mere is a rich habitat for a variety of wildlife, and is a special haven for birds, visited by thousands of migratory wildfowl each year – including Whooper Swans, Pink-footed Geese and Wigeons – and home to over 1,000 birds year round. Among birds that are native to Britain, such as the Redshank and the Barn Owl, non-native species such as the flamingo can also be seen, along with the occasional visit from birds such as the Black Winged Stilt, seldom scene in the UK. Birds of prey, including the Hen Harrier, Hobby, Merlin, and Peregrine Falcon, also thrive here. It’s not just bird life that does well on the wetlands however; otters, Brown Hare, and even beavers have made their home at Martin Mere, and at nightfall Pipistrelle and Noctule bats take to the sky.

History The mere has a history dating back to the last Ice Age, when receding glacier meltwaters carved a huge shallow bowl into the landscape of what is now Lancashire. The resulting lake was vast, and was once the largest body of fresh water in England. However, rich peat reserves lay beneath the lake and in 1692 British landowner Thomas Fleetwood attempted to drain it to reach these reserves. It was only in the mid-19th century that the lake was successfully drained thanks to the introduction of steam pumping. Farms and market gardens were then established on the fertile ground of the lake bed, and between 1974 and 1982 sand from the area was used to make glass at Mere Sands Wood, which has since become a nature reserve. In 1972, recognising the importance of the area for wildlife, WWT reclaimed part of the old mere, flooding vast areas of land every year to maintain the wetlands.

24 DECEMBER 2014

Seasonal highlights Winter is the best time to visit Martin Mere, when large flocks of Pink-footed Geese and Whooper Swans arrive from the Arctic, creating a spectacular scene. The swans are fed daily until the end of March at 3pm by Swan Link Hide and 3:30pm at the Raines Observatory – a sight not to be missed. Occasionally, rarer visitors to the UK such as the Snow Goose, can visit the Mere at this time of year and it’s also a good time to see a variety of birds of prey soaring over the watermeadows.

NEED TO KNOW LOCATION: WWT Martin Mere is situated in between Liverpool and Blackpool in Lancashire, 6 miles from Ormskirk and 10 miles from Southport. It is easily accessible by car via the A59, M6, M61, or M58. Railway stations Burscough Bridge Interchange, New Lane, and Burscough Junction are all within a short distance of the centre. VISITOR CENTRE: Mere Side Café serves hot and cold food, and the adjoining shop stocks gifts, cards, souvenirs, toys and bird care products. In Focus optics shop is also on site, selling binoculars and telescopes. OPENING TIMES AND PRICES: The reserve opens at 9.30am every day of year, with the exception of 25th December when it is closed. In winter the centre closes at 6pm in summer, 4:30pm during the winter, and 3pm on 24th December. Tickets cost: £10.73 adult, £7.91 concession, £5.23 child, and free for children under 4. CONTACT DETAILS: 01704 895181 www.wwt.org.uk/wetlandcentres/martin-mere wildlifeextra.com

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Ecuadoran purchase Christina Ballinger from the World Land Trust tells us why the charity has recently been helping to purchase some key areas of rainforest land in Ecuador ZAMBIA IN MOTION Until 14 December Space Invaders Gallery, London Don’t miss Zambian-born Cecelia Miller’s debut exhibition, which features Zambian culture and wildlife. A percentage of the sales will go to the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation. www.davidshepherd.org

or more than 25 years the World Land Trust has been raising funds to protect threatened ecosystems in many different parts of the world permanently. While other environmental charities devote effort to saving a particular species, WLT focuses its energy on the whole web of life that depends on an ecosystem. So far the World Land Trust has funded the purchase and protection of more than half a million acres of tropical forest and other biodiverse habitats, and the wealth of wildlife they shelter. A recent example is the extension to Río Canandé Reserve safeguarding Chocó rainforest of north west Ecuador. The Trust co-funded the purchase of six properties to extend the Reserve by 1,187 acres (480 hectares). Río Canandé is the most northerly of Jocotoco’s reserves and now covers over 6,100 acres (15,000 hectares) of protected forest in the Chocó region. The coastal tropical rainforest of the Chocó extends from southern Colombia to northern Ecuador. It ranks as the fourth hotspot for biodiversity in the world and holds innumerable species of plants and animals of which a high percentage is endemic, while many others remain undiscovered. The bad news is that, despite its biological importance, the Chocó has been dramatically reduced – first to logging by the settlers and timber companies, and more recently by a boom in the cultivation of oil palm and biofuel crops, agriculture and livestock production. A focus of the World Land Trust has been to link up the remaining fragments of Chocó forest in Ecuador and Colombia, so this purchase is an important milestone in a long term strategy to work

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in partnership with Colombian and Ecuadorian conservation organisations to save what remains of the Chocó. The Trust always works through local conservation partners, who negotiate the land purchase and in whom the land ownership is ultimately vested. In Ecuador, the World Land Trust has four conservation partners and has been working with Fundación Jocotoco (FJ) for about 15 years. Jocotoco now owns and protects nine reserves, created to safeguard habitats at different altitudes. But once a property is purchased and a reserve created, how can the Trust be sure that it will be safe? Recognising that the security of a reserve rests with the local people, on the ground it is the wildlife rangers who keep up the presence on the reserves. For this reason, WLT has a fund specifically designed to support the employment of rangers called Keepers of the Wild, and since its launch in 2011 it has supported more than 30 rangers in Africa, Asia and Latin America. Not only do rangers deter poachers and traffickers, but they also carry out important monitoring work, recording species and assisting scientific expeditions. In the case of Río Canandé, unchecked wildlife trafficking and hunting threaten populations of several of the large bird species, such as the endangered Great Green Macaw and the Great Curassow. Fortunately, thanks to the support of the World Land Trust, Fundación Jocotoco will be able to recruit a new wildlife ranger, whose presence will help to deter these illegal activities.

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 29 November - 22 February Bristol Museum and Art Gallery A chance to view the stunning wildlife photographs from the prestigious 2014 Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition, which have been taken from all around the world. www.bristolmuseums.org.uk

BEACH CLEAN 14 December RSPB Hayle Estuary, Cornwall Brace the winter weather and help clear the beach of rubbish. The sands are home to 18,000 migrant and wintering waterfowl –and these three-hour clean-ups are vital in safeguarding their habitat. www.rspb.org.uk DECEMBER 2014 25

BRITISH WILDLIFE

“It’s special because it’s ours” Antarctica might be awesome and the Masai Mara magnificent, but when it comes to wildlife, Britain really is the place to be, writes naturalist, author and wildlife TV producer, Stephen Moss

hat makes wildlife watching in Britain so special? After all, to play devil’s advocate, we don’t have lions, tigers or elephants, or awe inspiring deserts, glaciers and mountains. Being a collection of islands, isolated from a much larger landmass, we have far fewer mammals, reptiles or butterflies than continental Europe. And while our list of birds is close to 600 different species, the majority of these are rare or casual visitors. And yet… we do boast some awesome wildlife spectacles and experiences, as long as you know where and when to look. Fascinated by birds since early childhood, I later managed to turn my wildlife passion into my job, making television programmes for the BBC Natural History Unit. My work has taken me to all seven of the world’s continents. I’ve also been privileged to film and watch wildlife much closer to home – from Shetland to Scilly, Speyside to Skomer – and some of my most memorable experiences have been here in Britain. Take our seabird colonies, memorably described by conservationist Roy Dennis as ‘Britain’s Serengeti’. Alastair Fothergill, the man behind Planet Earth and many other blockbusters, once told me that, for him, the Farne Islands are the most incredible wildlife spectacle in the Northern Hemisphere. I can only agree with him. Being mobbed by Arctic Terns and eating your packed lunch surrounded by Puffins does take some beating. And if you think you can’t get away from it all in Britain, think again. It took me longer to get to the remote archipelago of St Kilda than to reach Antarctica, but it was well worth it to see the unique St Kilda Wren, the St Kilda Field Mouse, and the vast and noisy Gannet colony. Offshore, Britain boasts a wealth of marine mammals: the Bottlenose Dolphins of the Moray Firth and Cardigan Bay, and increasing numbers of Fin Whales, second only to the Blue Whale as the largest creature on Earth, in the Irish Sea. If you prefer to stay on dry land, every season offers its own special experiences: from the spectacular starling roost on the Somerset Levels in winter, through the dawn chorus and dazzling displays of bluebells in spring, to the Red Deer rut in autumn. You don’t even have to go into the countryside: as the ‘Urban Birder’ David Lindo points out, if you want to see birds in our cities you just need to look up. The fastest creature on the planet, the Peregrine Falcon, has now taken up residence in almost every major British city. One reason we have such an amazing variety of wildlife in Britain is our geographical position: on the edge of the vast Eurasian landmass, the British Isles stretches more than 1,000 miles from top

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“Being mobbed by Arctic Terns and eating your packed lunch surrounded by Puffins does take some beating” to tail. This means we can watch northerly species such as Arctic Skuas on Shetland and Snow Buntings in the Scottish Highlands, while encountering southerly species such as Nightingales, Smooth Snakes and Swallowtail Butterflies in the south. Britain’s place on the planet also gives us our distinct range of seasons and famously unpredictable weather, and puts us at the crossroads of global migration routes. We can see swallows and swifts arriving from Africa in spring, swans and geese from the Arctic in autumn, and migrants such as Painted Lady Butterflies and the spectacular Hummingbird Hawkmoth, which turns up in my Somerset garden each summer with increasing regularity. The final reason why Britain is such a great place to watch and enjoy wildlife is that we care about nature more than any other nation on earth. From early pioneers such as the country vicar Gilbert White, whose famous Natural History of Selborne is one of the bestselling books ever, to modern-day communicators such as Sir David Attenborough, Bill Oddie and Chris Packham, we are obsessed with wildlife. There are also legions of amateur naturalists and professional rangers and wardens, who will gladly show you the wonders of nature. A few years ago, while I was making the BBC TV series The Nature of Britain, we coined a phrase to sum up this special connection with the natural world: “It’s special because it’s ours”. From the little Robin perched on a bird table to the Osprey fishing on a Scottish loch; we can all celebrate and enjoy Britain’s natural heritage. Turn to page 73 for a round-Britain guide to wildlife for 2015

DECEMBER 2014 27

DAY TRIP I CAMBRIDGESHIRE

LONG WEEKEND I FIRTH OF FORTH

OR HOME AWAY? We round up the best wildlife watching experiences for December, with ideas for days out, weekends away and long haul breaks – but which gets your vote? WORDS BY WILLIAM GRAY

MINI BREAK I NORWAY

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LONG HAUL I COSTA RICA

DECEMBER 2014 29

DID YOU KNOW?

The term ‘murmuration’ was originally used to describe the sound of the birds’ wings rippling through the flock

Marvel at a murmuration Fen Drayton Lakes RSPB Reserve, Cambridgeshire When clouds gather over the reedbeds of this wetland reserve next to the River Great Ouse, birdwatchers hold their breath in anticipation. These are no ordinary clouds. Pulsing, swirling and wheeling against the fading light of dusk, they are created by birds – tens of thousands of starlings – massing in sinuous superflocks as they prepare to roost. Some people compare the spectacle (known as a ‘murmuration’) to a vast shoal of fish, coursing first one way, then another, as if a single mind was controlling the movements of each individual. Starling murmurations take place during autumn and winter, sometimes as early as September. However, December is a prime month, with bird numbers boosted by migrants from the Continent. The reedbeds at Fen Drayton Lakes provide a safe overnight refuge from predators and harsh weather, but why starlings gather in such numbers is not fully understood. There is certainly safety in numbers – falcons, for example, find it hard to pick out one bird from a bewildering flock of thousands. The starlings may also be seeking communal warmth, or a chance to socialise. Whatever the science behind murmuration, the hypnotic aerial ballet can end abruptly as the starlings suddenly cascade into the reedbeds. There’s usually a noisy period of chattering before the birds settle down for the night. Fen Drayton Lakes is just one of the UK’s choice sites for witnessing this dramatic winter show. Other popular locations include Brighton Pier and Gretna Green, as well as other RSPB reserves such as Leighton Moss in Lancashire. Despite the mesmerising displays, the flocks are actually just a fraction of what they used to be. Starling numbers have crashed by over 70 per cent in recent years – cause for more than a murmur of concern. 30 DECEMBER 2014

Top: Common Starlings assembling for roost at dusk. Above, left: Fen Drayton Nature Reserve in winter. Above, right: starlings gather in flocks before going to roost at Fen Drayton

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: Free WHEN TO GO: Autumn and winter

OTHER WILDLIFE: Bitterns, Rooks, Jackdaws and large flocks of overwintering ducks BOOK NOW: RSPB (www.rspb. org.uk/discoverandenjoynature/ seenature/reserves/guide/f/ fendraytonlakes/index.aspx) wildlifeextra.com

DAY TRIP I CAMBRIDGESHIRE

HOMEORAWAY? LONG WEEKEND I FIRTH OF FORTH

A winter waterbird wonderland Firth of Forth, Scotland Although the first of around 150,000 Gannets don’t begin returning to nest on Bass Rock until around late January, the Firth of Forth remains an important feeding and resting ground for seabirds all year round. Wildfowl, like Eiders, mergansers, Scaup and scoters, take shelter along its shores this month, along with waders, grebes and divers. Overlooking the harbour in North Berwick, the Scottish Seabird Centre is the ideal place to get your bearings. Open daily from 10.00am, the centre has live camera feeds from key spots on the coast and offshore islands, as well as a viewing deck with binoculars and telescopes for scouring the nearby harbour, headland and coves. There are also educational displays on birds, marine mammals and other sea life, but you will have to wait until Easter for boat trips to resume. In the meantime, wrap up warm and brave the December weather for a birding foray along the coast. One of the first winter visitors to arrive on the shores of the Firth of Forth are Turnstones, which may be present as early as August. By October, other waders, such as Knot and Purple Sandpiper, have joined them, reaching peak numbers in November and December. It’s sea ducks, however, that the Firth of Forth is renowned for in winter. Normally congregating out of sight of land, the prospect of shelter and food often lures good numbers close to shore. Eiders are the most conspicuous – around 3,000 overwinter in the Firth and you can sometimes hear the cooing courtship calls of the black and white males. Also dapper in their piebald plumage, Long-tailed Ducks are champion divers, reaching depths of up to 60m in search of food, while Greater Scaup, Goldeneyes, and both Common and Velvet Scoters can be seen in dense rafts.

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Below, left: Long-tailed Ducks taking flight. Below, top: a wild goose perching on a rock in North Berwick. Bottom: large waves crashing around Berwick Lighthouse

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Summer for breeding Gannets, Puffins and terns; autumn and winter for ducks and waders

OTHER WILDLIFE: Grey Seals start pupping in October, with a few lingering into late December BOOK NOW: Scottish Seabird Centre (www.seabird.org/ index.php)

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MINI BREAK I NORWAY

A fjord feeding frenzy

Below, top: gulls flying above two Killer Whales. Below, left: a juvenile female Orca. Bottom, right: an Orca swimming under water

Northwest Norway

AT A GLANCE

COST RATING: WHEN TO GO:De

b cem

February

OTHER WILDLIFE: Humpback and Fin Whales, Harbour Porpoise, Grey Seal, White-tailed Eagle, Gannet, King Crab BOOK NOW: Tysfjord Turistsenter (http://www. tysfjord-turistsenter.no/en/ activities/killerwhalesafari/)

Gannets are often a big clue. Find them feeding – plunge-diving into the sea, like a salvo of gleaming white arrows – and you might also catch sight of something else hunting amongst the foaming turmoil: a puff of whale breath, a tall, black dorsal fin rolling through the waves; perhaps even a black and white snout lunging above the surface, fish scattering like shards of silver. Vast shoals of spring-spawning herring migrate to the fjords of northwest Norway to overwinter – and pods of Killer Whales are never far behind. The seasonal movement of herring – and gathering of Orcas – can be fickle. Tysfjord, south of Narvik, was once widely known as the place to see Orcas hunting herring. Then, around 2007, sightings tailed off. The herring had started overwintering further north. Using high-speed RIBs, however, whalewatching safaris from Tysfjord are still possible. Last season, Orcas were found on every trip, often with Humpback and Fin whales joining the feeding frenzy. The Orcas are known to use low frequency sounds to bunch the herring together before stunning them with a tail slap. Getting in the water might seem an odd thing to do when pods of hungry Orcas are herding baitballs of herring, but snorkelling is an option on each three-hour trip. You are issued with survival and snorkelling suits and receive a full briefing on the evening prior to your adventure – not only to ensure your safety, but also to minimise disturbance to the whales. Other reliable locations for Orca encounters off the Norwegian coast include Andfjorden, between the Vesterålen Islands and mainland, and further north, near Tromsø. Elsewhere in Europe, Killer Whales congregate in Breiðafjörður, Iceland, between October and March. In the Shetland Islands, particularly Yell Sound, two or three pods are frequently seen during the summer.

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HOMEORAWAY?

LONG HAUL I COSTA RICA

Where jungle meets the pacific Corcovado National Park As the dry season gets underway, now is the time to explore this Central American beauty, teeming with an estimated 140 species of mammals, 367 species of birds and around 120 different amphibians and reptiles – not to mention some 10,000 insect species and 700 trees. Even in a country renowned for its wildlife (a quarter of Costa Rica is protected as national parks and reserves), Corcovado boasts extraordinary biodiversity. Located on the Pacific Coast’s remote Osa Peninsula, its tropical lowland forest is home to all four species of Costa Rica’s monkeys – Spider, Squirrel, Mantled Howler and White-faced Capuchin – while the notoriously shy Baird’s Tapir is often spotted near the park’s Sirena Biological Station. Although rarely seen, Jaguar, Ocelot and Puma are also present in good numbers. Follow trails along the rainforest-fringed beaches and you may well see capuchins, Coatis and peccaries. Corcovado also has one of Central America’s largest populations of Scarlet Macaws, while other top ticks include Great Curassow and Harpy Eagle. The wildlife extravaganza continues offshore: just east of Corcovado, Golfo Dulce is a calving ground for Humpback Whales between July and December, while several species of dolphins are frequently sighted on boat trips around the peninsula. With very limited road access, accommodation is scarce in Corcovado, but there are various options just outside the national park. Set in a 376-hectare private nature reserve with views across rainforest and ocean, the 16-bungalow Lapa Ríos Ecolodge (www.laparios.com) has been built with sustainably harvested materials and incorporates renewable energy and waste management schemes. The reserve acts as a buffer and wildlife corridor for Corcovado National Park where naturalist-led day hikes are a highlight. Other activities include birdwatching walks, boat trips in the mangrove forest, whale watching and kayaking. For luxury coastal camping, try Corcovado Adventures (www.corcovadoadventures.com). wildlifeextra.com

Clockwise from left: Whitefaced Capuchin; Granular Poison Dart Frog; an aerial view of Corcovado National Park

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Expect some rain at any time of the year, although it’s generally drier between December and April

OTHER WILDLIFE: Toucans, hummingbirds, sloths, American Crocodile, Bull Shark and Green, Hawksbill, Leatherback and Olive Ridley Turtles BOOK NOW: Journey Latin America (www. journeylatinamerica.co.uk/ destinations/costa-rica/ places-to-visit/osa-peninsula) DECEMBER 2014 33

Gentlydown The Selinda Spillway, an offshoot of Botswanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Okavango Delta, is perfect for a canoe safari through a wildlife-rich wilderness WORDS BY SOPHIE STAFFORD PHOTOS BY NEIL ALDRIDGE

Here: guide Josh Iremonger approaches a drinking elephant with caution Opposite: an African Fish Eagle swoops low over the Selinda Spillway

34 DECEMBER 2014

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Trip Report

the stream SELINDA RESERVE

rom around a bend in the river ahead emanates the sound of deep, honking laughter: “Ha, ha, ha, haaaa”. It prompts a chorus of chuckles that scares the skulking egrets into trees like wind-blown napkins. My imagination conjures images of a family of giants at dinner, cutlery clutched in meaty fists, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the main dish. The hairs on the back of my neck stand up and my hands on the oar grow damp. Are we to be supper? Three days earlier, I had arrived at Botswana’s Selinda Spillway, a legendary seasonal waterway that was dry for 30 years and has only recently begun to flow again. My mission: to paddle a canoe 45km down this capricious river, to see its incredible wildlife from a unique perspective and explore places few others have seen. First, though, I had to master the transport… Beached in a quiet backwater on the 320,000-acre Selinda Reserve I was sitting on a pea green, 18ft, two-man canoe. Electing to perch in the front of the vessel, so that I didn’t have to master navigation as well as paddling on my first outing, I lowered myself onto a tiny seat cushioned by a life jacket. Then, gripping the oar, I swiped tentatively at the water… and smacked the hull with a loud bang, soaking myself in the process. Clearly, it was harder than it looked. Before long, however, four canoes were weaving up, down and across the river, some even going backwards. Like unruly horses, we had little control over our craft and collisions – with each other as well as with

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DECEMBER 2014 35

An elephant family drinks in front of the canoers along the Spillway in the last light of the day

clumps of floating papyrus, logs and the nearest bank – proved inevitable. Fortunately, we were heading downstream for the entire journey, and with the current pushing steadily against our sterns we eventually managed to direct our canoes to follow our guide, Josh Iremonger. He reclined in solitary splendour in his canoe, feet propped high on the bag in front of him, lazily dipping his paddle into the water as he watched our antics. “It gets easier,” he smiled. Our first foray was only a short distance and over the next 40 minutes we became competent enough to not only paddle but also admire the scenery passing by. As the sun slid beneath the horizon, we beached the canoes on a bank where Josh’s trail team were waiting. Within minutes, they had whisked our bags away to large, domed tents and, offering the prospect of much-needed hot showers, had given us the guided tour of two long-drop toilets with now-dimming views of the surrounding African bush. That night, we enjoyed a sumptuous feast under a full moon serenaded by an enthusiastic chorus of crickets, Reed Frogs and Fiery-necked Nightjars. The next day we set out on our first 17km paddle under a cerulean blue sky. I was concentrating on stroking my oar through the water when I noticed a huge bull elephant crossing the river ahead. Drifting our canoes together, we formed a raft and watched silently. He clearly knew we were there, but he didn’t know what we were and so he wasn’t afraid. Surging into the river, which, at its deepest point, came to

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just beneath his eyes, he raised the tip of his trunk out of the water like a periscope. Questingly, it ‘looked’ our way, but finding no cause for concern, twitched back, constantly on the move. Reaching the opposite bank, the bull marched, dripping, into the bush. We collectively released breath we didn’t know we had been holding, and exchanged looks as eloquent as whoops of delight. Further on, we paused for an impromptu walk, true explorer style. The river winds through parts of the reserve where there are no roads and no people, and the local wildlife only encounters Josh’s canoe safaris fleetingly for a few months each year. As a result, there’s a feeling of solitude and genuine wilderness here, one that is becoming increasingly hard to find in Africa.

uietly we walked in single file through umbrella thorn acacias, butterfly-leaved mopanes and intoxicating marula trees until we spotted a herd of elephants on the far side of a clearing. Hiding ourselves by climbing on a tall termite mound fringed with dense vegetation and crowned by a vast jackalberry tree, we watched two calves wrestling gleefully. Suddenly, rustling grass alerted us to the approach of an elephant. It was close, too close. We froze. A mother and her calf were browsing on the bushes around us. She seemed to suspect that something was hiding nearby, but with a perfunctory warning flap of her ears in our direction, she continued to feed. The pair were so close we could hear them

DECEMBER 2014 37

This page, clockwise from left: the winding course of the Selinda Spillway from the air; lunches are prepared and served right on the riverbank; African Jacanas are ubiquitous along the Spillway; herds of elephant line both banks. Opposite: a bull Sable Antelope charges through the shallows

â&#x20AC;&#x153;We cruised serenely past herds of elephants and imperious buffalo coming down to the water to drinkâ&#x20AC;?

38 DECEMBER 2014

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Trip Report

SELINDA RESERVE

exhaling and unconsciously our breathing gradually started to synchronise with theirs. Then they were joined by a teenage male – and the dynamic changed. Youngsters are more excitable, unpredictable and prone to overreacting, sometimes inciting a stampede before more mature elephants realise there’s no reason to panic. Time to leave. Silently we sneaked away, leaving the elephants to their lunch. Back at the canoes, we quizzed Josh about the river’s most dangerous animals: crocodiles and Hippos. “There are no crocodiles on this stretch,” Josh reassured us. (Relieved faces all round.) “There’s not enough Impala for the big ones, nor large fish for the small ones. And Hippos are not as aggressive as they’re made out to be. “The biggest danger is a guest who panics. You have to stay calm and in control of your canoe,” he continued solemnly. “Wind and waves may push you in all directions, but you can’t allow yourself to float into a pod of Hippos. They could bite through the hull with their tusks.” Soberly, we paddled on, trying to improve our technique for whatever was waiting around the next bend.

hat evening, as we arrived at the next campsite, a flash of white caught the corner of our eyes and a whiff of something rotten tickled our noses. Three African Wild Dogs were heading towards the trees behind our tents! Josh knew the pack and suspected that they may have puppies, so the next morning we followed the sound of high-pitched yittering to the edge of the wood. Two of the adults stood guard but they were not bothered by our presence, uttering no alarm barks. Beyond them was an earth mound perfect for a den. As we waited quietly eight dark brown puppies tumbled out. What a privilege – they were so small we suspected that this might even have been one of their first trips above ground. We watched for a while then left the family in peace. Inspired, we were eager to be off. Now confident on the

water, we cruised serenely past herds of elephants and imperious buffalos coming down to drink, watched Guineafowl bobbing on the bank like animated tea cosies and Pied Kingfishers plunge-diving in the shallows. The sound of Josh banging his paddle against his canoe brought us all up with a jolt. Hippo alert. “Follow me in single file and I will choose the safest route,” he instructed us. “It may look shallow, but the bottom drops away unexpectedly, creating deep pools where 20 Hippos could be hiding and you’d never know it. Keep together, hug the bank and be really quiet.” Gripping our paddles with sweating palms, we edged forward on the Spillway. As we rounded the bend, two Hippos watched us warily. One vanished beneath the water as if suddenly sucked down from below, a whirlpool marking its escape route, while the other grunted a warning, plumes of vapour shooting high

A LOST RIVER RESTORED The Selinda Spillway is an ancient channel that connects the northern reaches of the Okavango Delta in the west with the Linyanti Swamps in the east. For over 30 years the Spillway was as dry and cracked as the skin of an old elephant, but in 2009 exceptional local

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Pied Kingfisher

How the Selinda Spillway sprang back into life

rainfall and peak floodwaters from Angola in the north brought it back to life, causing it to flow once more. Since then, ample rains have ensured that the river is restored annually, winding a sinuous path through the Selinda Reserve and

into the Zibadianja Lagoon, which was once so dry that the owners of the nearby Zarafa Lodge used to be able to land their plane on it. The river’s water levels peak between June and August – during Botswana’s dry winter months – creating lush floodplains that attract great concentrations of game from miles around. But the Spillway will not flow forever. With each year that passes, it dries up a little earlier and, in a year or two, it may be just a memory once more.

DECEMBER 2014 39

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Trip Report

SELINDA RESERVE

“Anxiously we scanned the surface for the bow wave that would indicate the Hippo was now running at full pelt toward our boats, intending to ram us”

A Hippo bursts into a yawn to flash its arsenal of teeth as a warning not to come too close

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DECEMBER 2014 41

Trip Report

SELINDA RESERVE above its head like a whale’s spout. It wasn’t happy to see us. When we continued to creep forward, it gave a huge yawn, tossing its head back onto its shoulders to ensure that we had seen and appreciated the size of its huge tusks – and, of course, the threat they represented. As we eyed it nervously, it made a little lunge towards us and then submerged, a threat display known as ‘porpoising’. Anxiously we scanned the surface for the bow wave that would indicate the Hippo was now running at full pelt across the bottom towards our boats, intending to ram us. If it did so, we were to bang our canoes with our paddles to discourage it, then hasten to dry land and keep going. Hippos are not as confident out of the water. Fortunately, it was all just for show and the grumpy Hippo resurfaced in the same spot, watching us pass through his pool resentfully. Afterwards, he honked triumphantly as if to say, “That told you!” We all smiled in relief and our paddling became almost joyful as we skimmed effortlessly towards camp.

o, on our final morning we are woken by the booming of Ground Hornbills, a sound so musical one of the guests thinks the trail team has broken into song. Then the mood sobers. This is the day of our greatest challenge – negotiating a ‘Hippo highway’ and huge pool popular with the local pod. So, here we are, reciting the Hippo Protocol, and listening to the “Ha, ha, ha” of the giants groaning and chortling to themselves, blissfully unaware of our approach. We take deep breaths, wipe sticky palms on shorts and push off. At least 12 Hippos watch us suspiciously, yawning and grunting for effect. Suddenly one surfaces right next to the canoes, giving both us and himself a fright. He dives, running past us along the bottom, his ‘footprint’ – an oval of flat water similar to that left in a whale’s wake – revealing his progress. As we watch with eyes like saucers, he surfaces again. This

TRIP ADVISER Selinda Game Reserve Okavango Delta

BOTSWANA

welcome), consisting of three full days and two half-days relatively easy paddling and four nights in fly camps. The price of USD2,660 pp is inclusive of accommodation, guiding and related activities, fees, meals and drinks. www.greatplainsconser vation.com/selindacanoetrail

GETTING THERE: Fly to Jo’burg, GABARONE

COST RATING SAMPLE TOUR: Great Plains Conservation offer a 5 day/4 night safari for max eight people (singles

42 DECEMBER 2014

South Africa, from British airports with BA, Virgin, South African Airways (SAA) and other s. Fly on to Maun, Botswana’s gateway to the Okavango Delta, with SAA or Air Botswana from £250. SAA’s fares to Maun may be cheaper if booked with international flight to Jo’burg. To reach the Selinda

time he thrusts his powerful body surprisingly high out of the water, tossing his head, mouth agape, tusks gouging the air, before splashing down and returning to the safety of his pod. It’s all a big fuss about nothing, but we are impressed and exhilarated to have completed our final challenge. Paddling around the corner and sliding professionally up onto the bank, we reluctantly say goodbye to the vanishing river. We’re running late for our flight home, but Josh quips, “No problem. We’ll just tell the pilot we had a bit of a problem with some heavy traffic”. Above: the sun sets over the Selinda Spillway as calm waters reflect sun-kissed clouds. Right: the Squacco Heron is one of the most striking birds that lives along the Spillway

Reserve from Maun, Sophie flew with Mack Air: www.mackair.co.bw.

VISAS FROM THE UK: None TIPS AND WARNINGS: No previous paddling experience is required. Bring waterproof shoes, swimming gear, a head torch for finding the toilets in the dark, and extra camera batteries. July can be hot in the day but chilly at night so pack sun lotion, warm hat and fleece.

WHEN TO GO Beginning of June to end of August

OTHER TOUR OPERATORS STEPPES TRAVEL www.steppestravel.co.uk T: 01285 880 980 EXPERT AFRICA www.expertafrica.com T: 020 8232 9777

SUGGESTED READING:

RAINBOW TOURS www.rainbowtours.co.uk T: 020 7666 1250

Sasol Birds of Southern Africa (4th Edn). RRP £15.50, our price £12.95, quote WT083. See page 100 to order.

REAL AFRICA www.realafrica.co.uk T: 01603 283 517

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Botswana & Namibia LANDS OF CONTRAST The vast wilderness of southern Africa, with its breathtaking landscapes and high density of wildlife, offers a true escape

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Cost rating: *** Sample package tour: Sunway Safaris offers a 21-day accommodated, small group tour through Namibia and Botswana in 2015 for Â£2180 + ZAR 1900 (*local payment) pp sharing, excluding flights. This tour includes: Victoria Falls, Etosha National Park, Damaraland, Sossusvlei, Bushman experience, Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and other highlights. *Local payment covers a portion of the operational costs, which are paid in cash locally including entrance and park fees Getting there: The tours start and end in Livingstone Zambia. Flights can be taken from the UK to Johannesburg with connections to Livingstone. Flights run daily taking approx 13 hours with connection. British passport holders can get a visa for Zambia at the airport on arrival. Visas for Botswana and Namibia are not required. Tips & Warnings: This tour visits 10 National Parks/conservation areas and focuses on wildlife and nature. Binoculars are an ideal safari accessory as well as extra camera batteries. Travellers require yellow fever vaccination for Zambia. Time to travel: Botswana and Namibia are year round destinations. Peak season is July (winter) to November (summer). Summer days are long and warm, during winter mornings and evenings are chilly with the days warm.

Tour operator:

SUNWAY SAFARIS Tel:+27 114 654 905 Email: sunway@icon.co.za sunway-safaris.com DECEMBER 2014 43

The volcanic peaks of Gros Piton and Petit Piton at SoufriĂ¨re Bay are an iconic sight on St Lucia

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Take me there

ST LUCIA

St Lucia has long been a magnet for sun worshippers because of its white-sugar beaches and warm, turquoise waters, but the Caribbean island with its two famous volcanic mountains is also a paradise for nature lovers

PEAKS TWIN WORDS BY LAUREN JARVIS

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If the battles that raged over

its possession in colonial times are anything to go by, St Lucia is what you’d call a

BIG DEAL

“SEVEN TIMES BRITISH; SEVEN TIMES FRENCH” is the mantra used by local guides, describing the ping-pong rulership of the island between the 17th and 19th centuries. One of the eastern Caribbean’s Windward Islands, St Lucia’s tropical weather and fertile soil formed a perfect environment for growing exotic crops: sugar, coffee, cocoa and cotton were the treasures the Europeans sought, with the British finally holding the prize in its possession until independence in 1979. Today St Lucia is a far more peaceful place, prized for its stunning beaches and secluded resorts. For a small island (43km long and 22km wide), its attractions are varied and plentiful, and include the iconic volcanic peaks of Les Pitons, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the world’s only drive-in volcano at Sulphur Springs in Soufrière; colonial fortifications on Pigeon Island; and a vibrant Creole culture. It’s also an emerging eco-tourism destination, with uncrowded reserves protecting miles of lush rainforest, and offshore reefs, harbouring a rich diversity of wildlife. To truly experience St Lucia’s unique wildlife you should get

out on foot and tread lightly. Beautiful swathes of untouched rainforest are protected by the Forestry Department, offering hiking and birding opportunities for all fitness levels. Visitors can arrange guided expeditions with St Lucia’s foremost ornithologist, Adams Toussaint, to search for some of the island’s 167 bird species, including the highest concentration of endemics in the eastern Caribbean. With so many other attractions focussed on the coast, it’s often possible to find yourself alone on the trails, surrounded by magical giant ferns, bromeliads, strangler figs and orchids, listening to the haunting sounds of the forest. Walking the two-hour Des Cartiers Rain Forest Trail in the Quilesse Forest Reserve offers one of the island’s best opportunities to see the country’s national bird, the rare St Lucia Parrot. The Millet Bird Sanctuary Trail is also a birding hotspot in the heart of the island. If you’re not fortunate to see one in the wild, you can head out early in the morning before the heat rises to the sanctuary and see St Lucia Parrots and over 30 other species, including four other endemics – the St Lucia

Clockwise from here: a Purplethroated Carib Hummingbird feeding; more adventurours visitors have the opportunity to zipline through the forest canopy; St Lucia is prized for its stunning tropical beaches

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ST LUCIA

Black Finch, St Lucia Oreole, St Lucia Pewee and St Lucia Warbler. Beady-eyed trekkers exploring forests near the coast should also keep a look out for the world’s secondsmallest snake. The Thread or Worm Snake is another endemic species, which grows to just 108mm long. Some trails also offer the chance to take a dip in one of the island’s sparkling waterfalls, like the 4km trek to the secluded Enbas Saut Falls in the Central Rain Forest Reserve, or Errard Falls on the east coast near Dennery. NORTH OF CASTRIES, THE LEISURELY UNION NATURE Trail makes an interesting stop, with a natural medicine garden and a mini zoo for young hikers, with iguana, Boa Constrictors and Agouti. Those with a sweet tooth can walk the lush cocoa plantation before making their own chocolate at Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate at the Boucan Hotel, which is working with local growers to develop sustainable cocoa bean production throughout the West Indies. And you can always work off any indulgences after your visit by scaling the nearby 800m peak of Gros Piton, home to the St Lucia Wren, opossums and St Lucia Anole, in a challenging four-hour trek. St Lucia offers endless opportunities for combining natural pursuits and eco-adventures. You can zipline through the canopy and experience some of the island’s beautiful endemic birds as they also soar through the trees. For those who’d rather take their time, there’s a three-hour aerial tramway ride, offering spectacular views from 16 open-air gondolas that wind their way gently through a canopy bursting with the colour of lavender stars and white magnolias. This is bird-watching Caribbean style. Cycling enthusiasts can enjoy mountain biking the exciting trails across the island. Or how about wildlife viewing by

TOP 5 WILDLIFE OF ST LUCIA 1

ST. LUCIA PARROT Known locally as the Jacquot, St Lucia’s endemic national bird almost became extinct in the 1970s. However successful conservation efforts and breeding programmes have seen their numbers increase. Look out for their striking plumage as they fly through the lush, inland rainforest.

SHORT-FINNED PILOT WHALES Members of the dolphin family, these sociable mammals live in pods of up to 50 animals, and are frequently seen off the north-west shore and south near the Pitons. Growing up to 7m in length, they have bulbous heads and no beaks, unlike their bottlenosed cousins.

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD Once prolific on Frigate Island, numbers have declined, but it’s still possible to watch them soaring around the coastline near Rodney Bay on their migration from Africa. With wingspans of over two metres and forked tails, males have a distinctive red throat pouch.

FER-DE-LANCE This highly venomous viper has a tough time in St Lucia, and at times has had a bounty on its head, due to lethal strikes on resort construction workers. Endemic to St Lucia, the brownish grey snake is found mainly on the ground in forested areas, so hikers should remember to take appropriate precautions.

LEATHERBACK TURTLE The world’s largest turtle species heads to St Lucia between March and August to lay eggs on the beach at Grand Anse. Reaching lengths of over 1.8m and weighing up to 500kg, these gentle giants of the sea have been on Earth for over one million years, but are now critically endangered.

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Segway? Starting from Rodney Bay, the Segway Nature Trail Experience explores the slopes of Mount Pimard, with knowledgeable local guides pointing out native flora and fauna along the way, including iguanas, Ospreys and Broadwinged Hawks, Belted Kingfishers and Tropical Mockingbirds. A break at the top allows time to take in the dramatic scenery of the west coast, as Magnificent Frigatebirds swoop below. The tour ends with a well-earned Piton beer on the sweeping sands of Reduit Beach. THE ISLAND’S DRAMATIC COASTLINE ALSO OFFERS PRIME bird viewing. Take a leisurely breakfast overlooking the cliffs at the Cap Maison Hotel and you’ll be accompanied by swifts, noddies, boobies, thrashers and terns, while shorelines are speckled with Semipalmated Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Spotted Sandpipers and Sanderlings. Explore the island’s swampy wetland areas such as Bois d’Orange and Boriel’s Pond to see migratory visitors including Great and Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Herons, many species of ducks, and gallinules. Birdlife abounds all over the island, so you’re just as likely to encounter the island’s winged wonders when you’re not even trying, be it a sneaky St Lucia Blackfinch hopping in to help itself to fruit from your room, or Purple-throated Carib Hummingbirds hovering over your pool as you enjoy a sunset dip. The waters surrounding the island and its off-shore reef are also home to a dazzling variety of species, and in line with its land-based eco-adventures St Lucia has introduced some unique methods for exploring their world. SNUBA is a snorkelling/diving hybrid, where air is pumped from the surface into a mouthpiece, meaning no heavy tanks or special training are needed before heading out to the

Clockwise from left: the country’s national bird, the St Lucia Parrot; the Green or Common Iguana can be seen on the forested slopes of Mount Pimard; ornithologist Adam Toussaint offers guided expeditions through lush rainforest

OFF-SHORE SURVIVAL With tourism growing, the small island of St Lucia is under considerable pressure to protect its increasingly rare wildlife

ike many Caribbean islands, St Lucia has the unenviable task of balancing tourist development with the need to protect its unique wildlife. International charity the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust is working with the St Lucia Forestry Department to conserve some of the more vulnerable endemic species, and were key in the campaign to save the St Lucia Parrot from extinction. “Protecting wildlife habitats without holding back development is a huge challenge for Caribbean islands like St Lucia,” admits Matthew Morton, Durrell’s Eastern Caribbean Manager, who leads the organisation’s projects on St Lucia, Antigua,

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Dominica and Montserrat. “The threat of habitat loss comes mainly from ‘heavyfootprint’ developments being built on nature-rich sites. Of course St Lucia needs more investment and development, but we need to find ways to make the impact on endangered species less severe.” With tourist numbers on the up, and introduced predators prowling the mainland, the tiny protected offshore islands around St Lucia, like the Maria Islands, have provided safe havens for endemic species. “Introduced animals like mongooses and rats have had a severe impact on native biodiversity,” explains Matthew. “The Racer was once very

common on St Lucia, but since the introduction of the mongoose in 1869, it has become the world’s rarest snake.” Durrell are assisting with relocation programmes for endemics including the rare St Lucia Whiptail Lizard to offshore islands such as predator-free Praslin. “St Lucia has produced some world-class successes in conservation,” says Matthew. And while some species are still at risk, tourism brings hope. “When wildlife and habitats are valued, they’re more likely to be protected, which can only be a good thing for the island’s unique natural heritage.” Find out more about the conservation efforts at www.durrell.org/conservation

DECEMBER 2014 51

reef. On the Sea Trek Adventure Helmet Diving Tour at Pigeon Island, you won’t even have to use a mouthpiece. Air is pumped through a hose into your helmet, so there’s no need to remove your glasses or even get your hair wet. While these ‘soft’ options may not get the adrenaline pumping in more experienced divers, they’re a great way of making the reef accessible to children and those less confident in the water. FOR DREAM VIEWS ABOVE AND BELOW THE SEA, snorkelers should explore the coral gardens of the Soufrière Marine Reserve, which extends from Anse La Raye to the Pitons in the south. Banded Butterflyfish, Blue Tang and Squirrelfish will keep you company as you swim over Brain Corals, sea fans and yellow tube sponges, and the crystal-clear warm waters may even reveal rays, turtles and a seahorse or two. First-time divers can get a great introduction to the reef in the safe, shallow waters at Anse Chastanet, while the more experienced can discover shipwrecks at Anse Cochon and the valleys of Rosemond’s Trench, which offer chances to see Moray Eels, Puffer Fish and rays. Superman’s Flight, a wall at the base of Petit Piton, is a must-do St Lucia dive, while the Keyhole Pinnacles, four volcanic peaks rising to the surface, are prime spots to see grouper, seahorses and snapper. Unlike some destinations, St Lucia offers year-round opportunities for whale and dolphin watching, with over 20 species inhabiting or visiting the waters around the island. The north-west coast boasts regular sightings, but boat trips to the south have the added bonus of incredible views of the Pitons, and a high likelihood of seeing large pods of Shortfinned Pilot Whales and Spinner, Spotted, Fraser and Bottlenose dolphins. Humpbacks and Sperm whales often join

the party, with Orcas occasionally passing through in the summer months with their young. With the island’s most desirable ocean-front lots being snapped up for luxury developments, it’s reassuring to know that St Lucia still has a stretch on the windswept north-east coast that remains prime real estate for nesting turtles. Between March and August, Leatherbacks – and sometimes Green and Hawksbill turtles – leave the water to lay their eggs in the sand on the protected Grand Anse Beach, around an hour from the nearest small community of Desbarra. Visitors can join overnight camping tours and have dinner under the stars, before taking their front-row seats for one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on Earth. With some local fishermen allegedly still hunting whales and dolphins, and some recent attempts at turtle poaching, supporting local wildlife watching tours – and the resulting economic benefits they bring to the community – could help to secure the future for not only these majestic marine mammals, but all of St Lucia’s many fascinating animals.

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It’s reassuring to know that St Lucia still has a stretch on the north-east coast that remains prime real estate for turtles

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Take me there

ST LUCIA

TRIP ADVISER

CASTRIES

COST RATING

SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR: Tropical Sky offers seven nights all-inclusive at the four-star boutique Coco Palm Hotel in Rodney Bay from £899 per person, including return flights and transfers.

ST LUCIA Petit Piton Gros Piton

GETTING THERE: British Airways (www.ba.com) offers daily flights to St Lucia from London Gatwick, arriving at Hewanorra International Airport. Taxis are widely available and fares are fixed, but establish the cost before you set off. Water taxis allow you to beach hop in the Rodney Bay and Soufrière areas. Cars can be rented at the airport. You will need a valid driving licence and a temporary driving permit, available from the rental company for around £12. Public buses run throughout the island and fares are cheap. VISAS FROM THE UK: Not required by British passport holders. TIPS & WARNINGS: Visits to St Lucia are usually trouble-free. Unless coming from an infectious area, no vaccinations are required, although hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are recommended. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is endemic, so avoid wading or swimming in fresh water. Dengue fever is present and transmitted via mosquitoes, so wear insect repellant and cover up. Hikers should stick to welltrodden trails and wear good boots as a precaution against the very venomous Fer-de-lance Snake which inhabits St Lucia’s forests. WHEN TO GO: St Lucia is a good year-round destination, with daytime temperatures typically in the mid-to-high 20s Celsius. Winter is the most popular time, especially the dryer months of December to April. The wetter hurricane season is generally from June to November. Turtle watching is best from March to August. SUGGESTED READING: Field Guide to the Birds of the West Indies; RRP £16.99, our price £11.99, quote WT084. Also, Wildlife of the Caribbean; RRP £13.95, our price £10.45, quote WT045. To order either or both, see page 100.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Go to www.stlucia.org WHERE TO STAY: BOUCAN HOTEL & SPA www.

hotelchocolat.com/boucan; CALABASH COVE www. calabashcove.com; C’EST LA VIE www.villacestlavie.com

Clockwise from top: The country boasts year-round whale and dolphin watching, with regular sightings on trips; the view of Petit Piton from from the top of Gros Piton; a Leatherback Turtle laying her eggs in the sand; St Lucia’s reefs offer fantastic diving experiences

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ACTIVITIES: CAPTAIN MIKE’S WHALE & DOLPHIN WATCHING TOURS www.captmikes.com; ST LUCIA SEGWAY www.LucianStyle.com; RAIN FOREST ADVENTURES www.rainforestadventure.com TOUR OPERATORS

■ TROPICAL SKY Tel: 0843 249 5919 www.tropicalsky.co.uk ■ NATURETREK Tel: 01962 733 051 www.naturetrek.co.uk ■ RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL Tel: 01273 823 700 www.responsibletravel.com DECEMBER 2014 53

Anatomy of a...

Three-toed Sloth The Three-toed Sloth has deservedly earned the title of being the world’s slowest mammal. But that’s not the only thing that makes this animal so unusual

Body temperature The sloth has a body temperature of 30-34 Celsius, which is low for a mammal. It also has a much lower muscle mass than other mammals of a similar size, so it’s unable to keep itself warm by shivering. Instead it regulates its body temperature by moving in and out of shade like a reptile does. All of this makes it a sluggish animal, which travels at an average of just 1.8 to 2.4m per minute and sleeps up to 20 hours each day to conserve energy.

Fur The greenish tint that can be seen on the long, coarse fur of a sloth is not its natural colouring, it’s algae. The sloth moves so slowly that algae grows on it, which is good news as it provides camouflage as it moves gradually through the forest canopy. The algae also supports an ecosystem of insects, butterflies, beetles and mites, all of which thrive on their sloth fur home.

Neck Sloths have a flexible neck that is unique in the mammal kingdom. While almost all other mammals, from humans to giraffes, have seven vertebrae in their neck, the sloth has up to 10. These extra vertebrae enable them to turn their heads by about 90 degrees.

Digestion As with everything else about the sloth, its digestive system is slow. It takes up to a month for it to process a meal. The leaves it eats are difficult to digest, so a four-part stomach digests them slowly. As their metabolism is less than speedy, they don’t need to eat much food – just a simple diet of leaves, twigs and buds.

Claws

The name Three-toed Sloth is a bit misleading as all sloths have three toes. What differentiates the three-toed variety is not its three toes, but its three fingers. The strong claws on these fingers are essential for hanging effortlessly in the trees where it spends the majority of its life, descending to the forest floor only once a week in order to defecate. Sloth claws provide such a strong grasp that they can even sleep upside down, suspended from a branch. When they are on the ground, though, these large claws become a hindrance as they are unable to walk on them. Sloths do use their claws to pull themselves along the floor and, in water, they are surprisingly good swimmers, using their long arms to propel themselves along.

Reproduction

An adult female will spend half the year pregnant and the other half looking after her single young. She will often give birth to her baby while hanging upside down from a tree branch. The baby will start to eat leaves at two weeks old but will continue to depend on its mother for milk for several months, clinging to her as she moves around the trees to feed.

Where in the world?

There are four species of the Three-toed Sloth, including the Brown-throated, Maned, Palethroated, and Pygmy sloths. These arboreal animals are found as far south as Brazil in South America, and as far north as Honduras in Central America, where they live in cloud and rain forests. The Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth is the most common, while the endangered Pygmy Three-toed Sloth is found only on Escudo Island off the coast of Panama.

After spending three years living in the African bush, award-winning wildlife photographer Suzi Eszterhas has captured unique photographs that give an intimate view into the lives of Cheetahs

THE 56 JUNE DECEMBER 2014 2014

need

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FOR speed PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUZI ESZTERHAS

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he Cheetah is walking two worlds in its race for survival: facing problems both inside and outside protected areas. Borders are lines on maps that separate countries and people. They are part of our world which wildlife, of course, doesn’t recognise. Animals follow ancient migration patterns and seek suitable habitat that contains the right elements for survival. This often puts them in conflict with people who inhabit the same land. For the Cheetah and other species, living within the borders of protected parks or game reserves can mean the difference between life and death. The individual animals that live within protected lands are photographed by tourists and protected by rangers. However the majority of Cheetahs are not found in protected areas due to conflict with other larger predators. In protected game reserves Cheetahs often lose their kill or their cubs to something larger and more aggressive. When Cheetahs move out of protected lands, though, this leaves them vulnerable to humans whose first priority is to protect their livelihoods. Human-wildlife conflict and habitat loss are the biggest threats to Cheetahs. As the human population increases, there is a higher demand for land rights. Agricultural pressure and subdivision of land mean a decrease in habitat for the Cheetah and other species. Understanding these challenges, the Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF) is dedicated to saving the Cheetah in the wild. Its new book, A Future For Cheetahs, illustrated with the breathtaking photography of Suzi Eszterhas, offers a detailed insight into the life of the Cheetah along with the challenges they face in a rapidly changing world.

RUNNING HOT (Opening spread) During its short, sharp burst of speed in pursuit of prey, the Cheetah’s body temperature elevates quickly. It has been measured at 105° F, or 4° F higher than normal temperature. After a chase, therefore, the animal needs to rest and cool down for up to half an hour.

Suzi Eszterhas is a wildlife photographer specialising in documenting the family lives of endangered species. In order to capture these unique photos of Cheetahs, she spent nearly three years living alone in a bush camp in Africa. Her patience, dedication and long hours in the field have yielded some of the most intimate imagery of Cheetahs ever captured. Visit www.suzieszterhas.com

SPECIAL CARE The Cheetah Conservation Fund, founded in 1990 (www.cheetah.org.uk), cares for an average of 45 to 50 Cheetahs at its Centre in Namibia. Each year orphaned Cheetahs are brought to the CCF centre where some will stay their entire lives. Others will be suited to return to the wild. All of them receive the best care, good diet, and regular exercise.

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DEDICATED PARENT Female Cheetahs raise their cubs on their own and keep a watchful eye for the dangers of the bush: mainly other predators, or even baboons. The female is everything to the cubs; she feeds and grooms them, and shows them how to behave. The cubs soon learn that it is important to keep an eye out in the same direction their mother is looking.

LEARNING PROCESS Growing cubs need to learn many life skills including how to recognise dangers in their environment. Playful experimentation is one way to learn. By poking at it and trying to chase it, this cub will discover that while this tortoise poses no threat, he canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t eat it and it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t run. He will soon move on to more amusing educational opportunities!

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GAME OF LIFE At about six weeks of age, the cubs begin following their mother on her daily travels looking for prey. During these first few months she cannot move far or fast as this is when cub mortality is highest. It is also the time when life skills are taught. Playtime appears to be constant, but as the cubs play they are developing motor skills and coordination, and they are finding out about the speed and agility of their bodies. There is so to learn about life in the wild.

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COLOMBIA MEGA DIVERSITY ProAves reserves protect almost 12% of the World’s bird species and other species in critical danger of extinction

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LASTING LEGACY Despite all the problems facing the Cheetah, including their genetic uniformity, competition with other large carnivores, and human wildlife conflict, this magnificent animal has survived thousands of years. These icons of speed and grace continue to fill their ecological role as the world’s fastest mammalian predator. Intregated conservation programmes across large landscapes will assure the survival of the Cheetah for future generations.

SPEED OVER STAMINA Cheetahs hunt in the early morning and early evening. Their speed and agility make them the best hunters on the savanna; however their lack of endurance and timid nature impede their hunting success. They capture their prey by stalking as close as 10m before beginning the chase. This pursuit lasts for as little as 20 seconds, though, and rarely longer than a minute. Consequently, only about 10 per cent of chases are successful.

BRANCHING OUT In East Africa, Cheetah cubs use tall trees to play in. In Namibia, these trees are actually called “playtrees” by local farmers. Learning to climb trees is dangerous, however, as Cheetahs have fragile and lightweight bones that could break easily if they fall.

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Atlantic Walrus adults with pup rest on a small slab of ice in the North Atlantic

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Trip Report

GREENLAND

WORDS BY STEVE NEWMAN

A cruise up the crinkly west coast of Greenland is a glimpse into the vast frozen world of Polar Bears and Musk Oxen, snowy white Ivory Gulls and curious Narwhals

DECEMBER 2014 65

It may be the world’s largest island with a length similar to that of Australia, but its entire population of just under 60,000 could be put inside London’s Wembley Stadium and there would still be 20,000 empty seats. Over 80 per cent of the country is still covered by a huge ice sheet, although climate change is taking its toll. If you’re wise you’ll book a window seat on the plane as you spend nearly an hour flying over it as you come in to the airport, and it’s a sight that you’ll remember forever. Here, mountain peaks rise from the snow like pyramids from the sand, and huge glaciers snake their way across a barren white wilderness. It is like Antarctica, but without the penguins! Our trip started with a four-hour flight from Copenhagen in Denmark to Kangerlussuaq in western Greenland. We were welcomed at the airport… by mosquitoes! Not what you’d expect and certainly you do need to think about insect repellent or a face net for certain parts of the island. Our first day was spent soaking up the stunning scenery, travelling in bouncy 4x4 coaches and crossing unexpected sand deserts high in the hills. We walked up to roaring waterfalls and ice-covered lakes in front of our first huge glacier, all under a stunning clear blue sky. Among the first animals we spotted were Musk Oxen - more than 10,000 animals grazing in the green mountain landscape bounded by the ice. Reindeer, too, were casually going about their business. They can be found along the west coast and in small herds on the east. Each year they migrate long distances between the interior and coastal areas in search of food and to reach their summer calving grounds. The birders on the trip kept a sharp look out for White-

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NO EXAGGERATION TO SAY THAT GREENLAND WILL ASSAULT YOUR SENSES, AND EVEN TAKE YOU FROM DEEP JOY AT THE SIGHT OF ITS IMMENSE SCENERY TO DESPAIR AT HOW THE COUNTRY, ITS WILDLIFE AND WAY OF LIFE ARE EVER SO SLOWLY D I S A P P E A R I N G . . .

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Trip Report

GREENLAND

Clockwise from top: Musk Oxen are now common in Greenland; Mountain Hare inhabit Greenlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rocky mountain ranges; Arctic Foxes with their darker summer coats; the town of Ilulissat overlooks dramatic icebergs

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SMELL OF SUCCESS The impressive but odorous Musk Ox is the largest land mammal in Greenland

Above: cruises offer a great way to see Greenland’s highlights. Left: for Greenlanders, dogs are kept as working animals rather than as pets. Below: with their thick, double coats Musk Oxen are perfectly suited to harsh Arctic climates

tailed Eagles which are at the northernmost point of their range at the glacier. Greenland’s specialities such as Snowy Owl, Walrus, Lemming, Polar Bear and Arctic Wolf are found in greater numbers in the world’s largest National Park in the north and east of the island. It’s a treasure trove of scenery and a wilderness with wildlife that simply cannot be matched in the inhabited areas of the country; but you need a permit to visit and, because of the distances involved, it’s not practical to combine it with either a visit to the west side or a land-based trip, so this is where a specialist cruise comes into its own. My cruise took in the Disko Bay area on the west coast where the icebergs are awe-inspiringly beautiful and the nutrient-rich waters attract a wealth of wildlife. So there may not be the numbers of some animals that you can find in the National Park, but they are there to be seen all the same. Here, above the Arctic Circle during the summer months, there’s 24-hour daylight, so if you can’t sleep you can at least whale watch! On the first morning I saw a pod of Minkes, a Bowhead Whale, and the distant fins of Orcas plus of Greenland and Bearded Seals. Northern Fulmars could always be seen around the ship. It’s easy to spot that they’re members of the albatross family by their size, presence of nasal tubes and the hook at the end of the bill. It’s a good idea to scan the small ices flows for the white Ivory and pale grey Iceland Gulls, too, whilst flocks of Little Auks and Black Guillemots are regular sightings. wildlifeextra.com

Musk Oxen weigh up to 400kg (880lb) each and you don’t have to travel far from the airport before having a good chance of seeing them. They are not indigenous to the area, having been reintroduced in the 1990s, but they are now thriving. The Musk Ox is named for the strong odour emitted by the males during the seasonal rut; it is a musky smell that is attractive to the females. They are perfectly adapted to their extreme environment, being well insulated with a thick coat of hair and woolly undercoat. Apart from man, the Ox’s only enemies are Polar Bears, Arctic Wolves and foxes. If the herd is attacked the animals do not stampede but form a circle, which is virtually impossible to break into, to protect the calves. Some herds consist solely of young adult males, and although the animals are primarily grazers, eating sedges and grasses, they will also eat shrubs. The females calve long before the snow melts so their milk is supported by the cow’s fat reserves, which she has to replenish during the brief summer. For their winter ranges they typically search out areas of shallow snow to reduce the energetic costs of digging through it to reach fodder. In Greenland, Musk Oxen occur in four protected areas, with indigenous populations in the vast National Park and three introduced populations in Arnangarnup Qoorua Nature Reserve, and Kangerlussuaq and Maniitsoq Caribou Reserves. Outside the protected areas, controlled hunting is allowed. Quotas are determined annually and hunting is permitted only by full-time subsistence hunters. The Ox’s innermost coat, the wool layer, is used by the Greenlanders to make clothing and handicrafts.

DURING THE 10 DAYS we were on board our cruise ship we travelled as far north as Upernavik, some 360 miles (590km) above the Arctic Circle, and visited some 10 settlements that varied in size from just 50 inhabitants to 3,000. These visits are made by small boat, often landing on the shoreline and only sometimes a jetty, so you have to be prepared for the possibility of cold, wet feet! As you might expect, it was a visit to the abandoned settlement of an old coal mining town called Qullissat that produced some of the best wildlife sightings. Qullissat was founded to exploit the resources of Disko Island and operated for 48 years before closing in 1972. Beneath its ruined houses we saw Arctic Foxes making dens and two Arctic Hares rushing across the mountainside. They DECEMBER 2014 69

Clockwise from above: Greenland tour guides are trained to know how to react when encountering Polar Bears; tourists viewing icebergs from a zodiac in eastern Greenland; Beluga Whales inhabit the country’s coastal waters; an adult female Snow Bunting collecting insects in her beak for her chicks

were taking a chance as some of our party had earlier spotted a Gyr Falcon gliding across the peaks, which would like nothing better than a hare supper. Speaking of being supper, on all our shore landings the expedition team took rifles in case of Polar Bear encounters. It was made very clear that we were guests in the bears’ territory and that they would only be shot as a very last resort. The Disko bay area is the magnet for visitors as it houses the Kangerlua Glacier, the largest outside Antarctica, that produces icebergs weighing up to 7 million tonnes. The ice fjord is one of the incredible sights of the world, which we took in on a boat trip, although some went even better and flew over it by helicopter from Ilulissat town. Not that our journey was any less exciting. The icebergs can shatter into smaller iceflows due to the force of the glacier behind them, and these flows can cover the sea. I was very apprehensive as we approached the town by ship, crawling along very slowly and pushing the ice out of the way. She may have had a strengthened hull for her trips here and to Antarctica and Svalbard, and the Captain and crew may have been experienced ice sailors, but it was still unnerving. The apprehension is well worth the rewards you get from 70 DECEMBER 2014

being close to the smaller flows where you can find sleeping Harp and Ring Seals. Belugas can be spotted here beside Narwhal with their curious long single tusks, and Humpbacks, Fin and even Blue Whales, which come into the bay in July. The Greenlanders are some of the friendliest people I have met anywhere and they love a chuckle. I had some memorable conversations with people in the small communities, although neither of us had any idea what the other was saying. We had a great time using gestures and play acting to make our points.

THE INHABITANTS OF GREENLAND have a closeness to the land and sea and wherever you go you find wooden frames outside houses drying shark, halibut and wolfish, animal pelts, sealskin and blubber. It’s not unusual to see Musk Ox heads being fed to the sled dogs. Around these small settlements you can find Snow and Lapland Bunting and Northern Wheatears which migrate here each year from western Africa. You’re also certain to hear and see ravens, if not flying free then hanging above the fish frames as a warning to others who might try to steal the food. You need to have an open mind about hunting and fishing wildlifeextra.com

Trip Report

GREENLAND

TRIP ADVISER SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR

GREENLAND

Natio nal Pa rk

COST RATING

Because of its size, travelling around the Upernavik coastal strip of Greenland is expensive as there are very few Disko roads and transportation is by air Bay Kangerlussuaq or ferry. As such you are strongly advised to go with a specialist wildlife spotting trip or cruising company that uses small boats for ship to shore landings. Hurtigruten Cruises offers trips on the specialist ice cruising vessel MS Fram which operates five-star cruises in both polar regions.

in this country, and you could find some sights you may see in the smaller communities disturbing. Karl Hansen, in his book A Farewell to Greenland’s Wildlife, uses statistics provided by Greenland’s own biologists to document the decline of living resources and what he considers to be the Greenlanders’ enormously wasteful hunting and fishing practices. A lot of the wildlife in Greenland is under threat. To the Inuit or Greenlandic people, hunting and fishing are a way of life and so the skins you see could easily be Polar Bear. There is a quota on the hunting of Narwhal, whales and seals, but the monitoring of this is difficult. The Inuit culture is changing dramatically, though, as westernisation takes hold and global warming begins to bite. Native Greenlander, Kristian Nielsen, has been a hunter and fisherman for all of his 60 years. “Ten years ago the ice was so thick that we thought nothing of taking the dogs out many miles,” he says, cradling a sled dog puppy. “Now it’s much thinner and we have a long pole with a chisel on the end to test its thickness as we go along.” All of this being said, no one can fail to find Greenland a magical place, where the people are so welcoming and the animals and their landscapes so fascinating. wildlifeextra.com

CRUISES INCLUDE: ■ Arctic Wilderness Adventure The northwest of Greenland in the Disko Bay area, and the rarely visited settlement of Upernavik, boast giant icebergs, fjords, wildlife and spectacular landscapes. Duration: 12 days. Dates: 12, 22 June 2015. Cost: from £4,980 pp (two sharing an inside cabin). ■ Disko Bay And The Southern Fjords The highlights of Disko Bay and the less visited southern parts of Greenland. Visit traditional Inuit settlements, historic sites, the city of Nuuk and the impressive alpine landscape. In June from Reykjavik. Duration: 13 days. Dates: 2 July 2015. Cost from £4,622. ■ National Park Expedition An exclusive expedition to three Arctic islands; Spitsbergen, Greenland (for the largest national park in the world) and Iceland. There is also a chance of seeing the Northern Lights. Duration: 15-16 days. Dates: 26 Aug, 10 Sept 2015. Cost: from £4,783. Flights for all cruises are from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq. In some cases accommodation is provided in hotels in Copenhagen before or after the voyage.

VISAS FROM THE UK: Not needed TIPS AND WARNINGS: Mosquitoes can be a problem in so take repellent and a head net. Do not attempt to fuss over the sled dogs - some can be vicious. Sea sickness patches are a very good idea as Arctic storms can come out of nowhere.

SUGGESTED READING: The Arctic - a Guide to Coastal Wildlife by Tony Soper. RRP £16.99, our price £13.99, quote WT086. See page 100 to order.

WHEN TO GO: You are dependent on the timetable of the cruises, but whales are best seen around July.

TOUR OPERATORS

HURTIGRUTEN CRUISES Tel: 0203 582 6642 www.hurtigruten.co.uk DECEMBER 2014 71

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BRITAIN <ʝʦɠ FʝʛɿȵHɀɏ ʨɵOɮʙLȯɏ ZDWɭʕʖQɒ ʔʦLȫɏ

74 WHY?

From national parks to private gardens Britain is teeming with wildlife, so wherever you are you can enjoy great wildlife encounters

76 WHERE? © FLPA

94 WHEN?

From the rugged and isolated Shetland Islands to Cornwall’s temperate shores, our diverse wildlife can be found in every corner

Every season has its own wildlife highlight. Our calendar is your month-by-month guide to Britain’s most exciting wildlife events

Let us help in the planning of great wildlife experiences in 2015 with this essential guide to the best places to look for your favourite British animals

WORDS BY SAMANTHA STOCKS

GOWILD

74 DECEMBER 2014

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ESSENTIAL BRITAIN :ʕɨ" WHY?

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An adult Osprey catching a fish in Rothiemurchus Forest in the Cairngorms

ou don’t have to go far in this country to find an abundance of fascinating wildlife. Certain areas specialise in certain species but, generally, even in the heart of our cities we’re never far from nature. Just a short journey from our front doors will take us to places where, with patience and luck, we can have sightings of some great animals. We may not have bears, lions or kangaroos lurking in our woods or prowling on our moors, but for a small island we have a myriad of equally fascinating resident species and even more seasonal travellers that come to us to breed or over-winter. Our rich and varied fauna goes hand in hand with our huge variety of wildlife habitats. So there’s always something interesting to see at each location in every season anywhere you go in the UK, if you know where to look for it. Over the next few pages we hope to point you in the right direction for a great wildlife experience, whether it’s near to your home or when you’re holidaying around the country.

SCOTLAND

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NORTH

CENTRAL WALES SOUTH

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DAVID LINDO AUTHOR & BIRD GUIDE It may come as a surprise but London is fantastic for watching birds. One of my favourite encounters in the capital occurred early one grey and misty autumn morning on Wormwood Scrubs, my west London local patch. I had taken just a few steps into the vegetation when a large owl suddenly launched itself into the air from almost underfoot. I jumped with fright but composed myself within seconds when I realised that it was a Short-eared Owl. I watched it as it circled me, eerily flapping on silent wings. The crows were not as spellbound as I was and proceeded to noisily escort my beautiful visitor out of their airspace. It goes to show that you don’t have to be anywhere amazing to have incredible wildlife experiences. www.theurbanbirder.com

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The South EAST Although Britain’s capital is a sprawling urban jungle, there are a somewhat surprising number of green spaces both in and around the city that provide a home to diverse wildlife. Richmond Park in London’s southwest is surrounded by urban sprawl but it still manages to have more than a whiff of the wilderness about it, thanks to the 650 deer that roam its 2,360 rolling acres of grassland and wooded avenues. There you can find the large Red Deer and the smaller Fallow Deer. On the edge of the city to the west is Windsor Great Park, which has a population of Roe and Red Deer that roam freely. Look to the skies for buzzards, Kestrels, Sparrowhawks and plentiful Green Parakeets, and watch the ground for the occasional Grass Snake. For wildfowl, London Wetland’s Centre is a sanctuary in the midst of the bustle of the surrounding city. The centre is the home of

migrant wading birds, bitterns, teal, wigeon, and Shovelers, which arrive here in nationally significant numbers. Following the Thames east you’ll arrive at Rainham Marshes, where a variety of birdlife can be found, including Avocet, Little Egret, Peregrine, Ringed Plover, Oystercatcher, Marsh Harrier and more. Sit long and still enough and you might also see a Water Vole. A little further out of the city Sevenoaks Wildlife Reserve in Kent gives you the opportunity to see plentiful wildfowl, including Little Ringed Plover, Great Crested Grebe, and Tufted Duck amongst others. For Grey Herons, Northward Hill in Kent is a good location, which is also the home of a variety of other birds including Little Egret, Nightingale, Avocet, and Turtle Dove. The neighbouring county of Essex to the north hosts a number of locations to entice wildlife enthusiasts, including Fingringhoe

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MY LONDON

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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Left: a Migrant Hawker dragonfly on Canvey Island in Essex Below: a Blue Shark off the coast of Cornwall Bottom: a Nightingale in song Opposite: a herd of deer in Windsor Great Park in Berkshire

Wick, which comes alive to the sound of dozens of Nightingales singing from late April to early May, and Canvey Wick, home to a rich variety of butterflies during the summer. Bookham Commons in Surrey, and the Isle of Wight off the coast of Hampshire, are other good locations to visit for a large and varied butterfly population. A flourishing population of Red Squirrels also make their home on this island, where they are free from the more dominant Grey Squirrel.

WEST Britain’s southwest coast is famed for its clear, warmer waters that are frequented by holiday-goers and surfers each summer. It also offers great opportunities for viewing marine life. Between late April and August, the waters are home to the second-largest fish in the sea – the Basking Shark. In Britain’s southern waters they can be seen along the Cornish coastline, particularly off the Lizard Peninsula in Devon. Blue Sharks turn up in British waters for a few months in the summer during their trans-Atlantic migration, and from June to September there are a handful of dates available when you can head out of Newquay harbour in Cornwall for a once-in-a-lifetime chance to snorkel in a purpose-built steel shark cage and view the wildlifeextra.com

magnificent Blue Shark first hand. For bird-lovers, the Isles of Scilly, off Cornwall’s southernmost point, benefits from a slightly milder climate, attracting some rare migrant birds that can be seen during October. Earlier in the year, Golden Orioles, Hoopoes, and Woodchat Shrikes can be seen in March, while Wilson’s Storm Petrels and Great Shearwater arrive in August. While there, keep an eye open for the Lesser White-toothed Shrew, one of the UK’s only population of this small animal. The only other places in the country where the shrews live are on the islands of Sark and Jersey, the latter of which is also home to the French Shrew. DECEMBER 2014 77

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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Here: Starlings forming murmurations just before roosting at sunset. Below left: Great Shearwater in flight near the Isles of Scilly. Bottom: Red Squirrel on Brownsea Island

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Jersey also hosts an impressive variety of reptiles, including Slow Worms, Grass Snakes, Green and Wall Lizards, and the rare and endangered Agile Frog. The island also boasts its own species of vole, the Jersey Bank Vole, a larger form of the Common Bank Vole. Off the coast, Bottlenose Dolphins are common, while on land there is a stable population of Red Squirrels. For Red Squirrels, another hot spot is Brownsea Island, lying just off the coast of Dorset near Poole. South of the island, Durlston Head has good numbers of Adonis Blue Butterflies during the summer (a species restricted to only a few places in England) and the extremely localised Lulworth Skipper. Keen butterfly watchers should definitely make a stop at Bentley Wood in Wiltshire, which is nationally recognised for its butterflies. While visiting this county, it would be remiss not to spend some time in the New Forest. The habitat of pasture land, heathland and forest straddles Wiltshire, Hampshire and Dorset, and is home to five species of deer, an extraordinarily rich variety of fungi, wildflowers, dragonflies, reptiles, and rare birds. Open, sunny heathlands are ideal for reptile-spotting,

and they are also teeming with other animal life too, such as Nightjars and Goshawks, deer and New Forest Ponies. During the summer, the forest is home to a population of European Honey Buzzard, which are also found in the southwest in Wareham Forest in Dorset, and Haldon Forest Park in Devon. Just to the east of the Haldon Forest is the Exe Estuary, which is well worth a visit to see its thriving population of Avocets. The RSPB offer Avocet cruises on the Exe from late November to early March for the best views of the birds. Whether you’re a bird lover or not, you can’t fail to stand in awe at the sight of hundreds of thousands of starlings creating cloud-like shapes across the sky between November and February. A good place to see these stunning murmurations are at Slapton Ley in Devon, on the Somerset Avalon Marshes, or at Westhay Moor in Somerset, where the birds number in their millions. While here you might also see Osprey, Goosander, Goldeneye and Firecrest, and be sure to keep an eye open for the elusive otter. If you don’t see any here, try your luck at nearby Shapwick Heath, also a part of the Avalon Marshes. DECEMBER 2014 79

DAVID TIPLING Wildlife photographer When hearing the first honking Pink-footed Geese of autumn fly over our North Norfolk home I rush outside to welcome their return. For me they epitomise the big skies and wildness of this coast. My photography during winter is pursued against the soundtrack of geese, ducks and waders that throng the creeks and marshes. But it is another bird I pursue with my camera, with more excitement than any other; the Barn Owl. Fluttering over reed filled dykes and cattle strewn meadows, there is no better region in the country to watch and photograph Barn Owls. By standing in the lee of a hedge I secrete myself into the landscape. A passing owl may take no notice until I squeeze the trigger on my camera and receive a sideways glance before he continues his hunt. www.davidtipling.com

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Central EAST RSPB Minsmere on Suffolk’s coast has a reputation for being one of the best birdwatching sites in the UK. The mosaic of reed beds, scrapes, lagoons, woodland and heathland is home to many beautiful British birds including the highest number of breeding bitterns in the country. It is also one of the strongholds of nesting Avocets, and if you’re visiting between April and June you’ll also have a good chance of hearing the Pavarotti of the bird world, the Nightingale. A little further down the coast is Havergate Island, an RSPB reserve famous for its breeding Avocets and terns. Suffolk’s only island also has a flourishing population of Brown Hare, which are particularly common on the broad fields and fenlands of East Anglia. Another of Norfolk’s more exciting mammals also has a stronghold in East Anglia: the otter. One of the best places to see them is on the Norfolk Broads, with its network of rivers and canals. In fact this watery region

boasts a rich array of wildlife including Water Voles, Grass Snakes, Swallowtail Butterflies, Marsh Harriers, and much more. Keen birders should head to Scolt Head Island, which boasts nationally and internationally important numbers of breeding tern and wintering wildfowl. Journey inland to Thetford Forest on the Norfolk/Suffolk border and you can see large deer populations on the Suffolk Sandlings. Adding to Norfolk’s diverse wildlife are Common and Grey Seals – you can see some 500 of them at Blakeney Point during the summer, or head to Hunstanton to catch a boat trip to Seal Island in The Wash where you can see a large colony of Common Seals. This colony makes up around seven per cent of the total number of this species in the UK, and is one of the largest in the world. Another good location for seal watching is Donna Nook in Lincolnshire, one of the most accessible sites for seeing breeding seals. But don’t journey from Norfolk to wildlifeextra.com

MY EAST ANGLIA

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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Clockwise from left: European hares boxing in a field in Norfolk; Common Swallowtail Butterfly feeding on Buddleia; a Barn Owl looking out of a barn window in Suffolk; a Red Fox sitting in green pasture

Lincolnshire without making a stop at Rutland Water, best known for its Osprey reintroduction programme. This wetland also attracts large numbers of wildfowl and waders as well as terns and gulls. Great Crested Grebes and Common Terns nest in good numbers and many migrant species pass through. Not too far away are the Ouse Washes in Cambridgeshire, where you can see Black-tailed Godwits, Snipes, Garganeys, Marsh Harriers, and Bewick’s Swans depending on the time of year. Making your way toward Cambridge, stop at Wicken Fen, the National Trust’s oldest nature reserve. It is home to a colourful variety of butterflies during the summer, which share the sky with plentiful dragonflies. The Fen is an important roosting site for Hen Harriers and is also a good place to spot bitterns, Long-eared and Barn Owls, Woodcocks and more. Cast your eyes to the ground to look out for wildlifeextra.com

Grass Snakes and Common Lizards. But the wildlife isn’t all found in the countryside. The city of Cambridge is home to a number of different bat species. For a chance to see them, take The Punt & Bat tour from Scudamores, departing at dusk. In addition to bats, dusk is the best time to hear the unusual, somewhat eerie song of the Nightjar between May to July. Clumber Park in Nottinghamshire hosts Nightjar walks, providing good opportunities to hear their song. From Nightjars to Nightingales, those wanting to hear the delightful song of this bird might have a good chance to do so at Rockingham Forest near Corby, Northamptonshire. This historic forest is managed by the traditional practice of coppicing, which encourages wildlife and particularly benefits the Nightingale. Hazel Dormice, scarce in much of the country, thrive here in the coppiced woodland. Other mammals include foxes, badgers, DECEMBER 2014 81

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AZORES

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Email: info@whalewatchazores.com Whale Watch Azores

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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Here: a Common Kingfisher and its catch. Bottom right: looking over the Wye Valley in spring from Yat Rock, Symonds Yat. Bottom left: White-fronted Geese in flight at Slimbridge, Gloucestershire

polecats, stoats, Fallow and Muntjac Deer, while birdlife includes Tawny and Longeared Owls, all three species of British woodpeckers, Marsh and Willow Tits, and Hawfinches. Most famous however are the magnificent Red Kites that were introduced here in the 1990s, and have since built up a thriving self-sustaining population.

WEST

The River Wye flowing through the Wye Valley – listed as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – is an important habitat for nature. In the Wye Gorge, the river runs between small earth cliffs in which kingfishers and Sand Martins nest. Woods line the length of the gorge and dragonflies and damselflies fill the air in spring. In the

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right conditions, you stand a chance of seeing Brown Trout, chub, perch, roach, and eels as you walk the river banks. In spring, migratory species include salmon, Sea and River Lampreys, and Wye specialities such as the Allis and Twaite Shad, all coming upstream from the sea to spawn. For a dramatic view of the valley and a close-up of its most famous inhabitants – the Peregrine Falcons – visit the limestone cliffs of Yat Rock. From April onwards you can witness the aerial displays of these fascinating birds of prey. On the ground, the night draws out wary foxes and badgers, and there have been sightings of Polecats. Otters have also returned to play along the tributary streams, while 15 different species of bats swoop through the air above them. Directly to its east lies the Forest of Dean in Gloucestershire. In the early part of the year it is one of the best places to see displaying Goshawks, especially from the New Fancy viewpoint. Crossbills are another very regular species in the forest and can be found where there are good stands of larch. But its not just birds that make their home here; while walking the trails be on the look out for Wild Boar, which you might hear snuffling through the undergrowth. Further east, the Cotswold Water Park

near Cirencester is worth a visit, especially during winter when its 147 lakes become home to thousands of waterbirds and gulls. But don’t leave Gloucestershire just yet, as no visit to the county should be complete without a visit to Slimbridge, the first Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust centre to open. Here you can see a dazzling array of birdlife. Large numbers of Bewick’s Swans and White-fronted Geese winter here, and starlings have been recorded roosting here in numbers of a quarter of a million, attracting predators such as Sparrowhawks and Peregrine Falcons. European Wigeons, Golden Plovers, Dunlin, curlew and lapwings also come here in their thousands. DECEMBER 2014 83

MY NORTH RICHARD BAINES Director, Yorkshire Coast Nature I have lived on the Yorkshire coast most of my life but only in the last few years have I discovered how good the sea can be for whales! In 2013 whilst leading a small group seabird tour from Bridlington we sighted a Minke Whale at distance. This was great as we had only just started our boat trips. The sea was flat calm on a beautiful sunny day with Puffins and Fulmars by the side of the fishing boat. Some whales are more curious than others and this one needed some company! We were amazed when it swam right up to the side of the boat and spent 30 minutes circling us, often to within only a few meters of the cameras! At this distance in clear water we could even see the white flippers. This unforgettable experience has really started my passion for small boat trips! www.yorkshirecoastnature.co.uk

84 DECEMBER 2014

The North EAST In England’s far north, the Farne Islands off Northumberland are an exceptional place to visit for seabirds. This location is rightfully one of the most famous seabird sanctuaries in the British Isles. Puffins and Manx Shearwaters are abundant here, and there are good numbers of Guillemots, Kittiwakes, Northern Gannets, and Arctic and Roseate Turns. Grey Seals here number in their thousands, with some 3,000 to 4,000 animals making their home on the islands. Off the coast, look for Minke Whale, Harbour Porpoise, Bottlenose Dolphin, and Basking Sharks. Bempton Cliffs and Flamborough Head in Yorkshire are also nationally important locations for seabird colonies. In summer, Flamborough Head comes alive with the sight and sound of tens of thousands of auks, gannets and gulls, while Bempton Cliffs’ chalk cliff faces are home to around 200,000 seabirds, including Kittiwakes, Northern Gannets and Puffins.

Further south in Yorkshire is RSPB Blacktoft Sands, which is a good place to see more birdlife including Marsh and Hen Harriers, Avocets, and bitterns. But it is Yorkshire’s rolling moors for which the county is most famous. The North Yorkshire Moors are home to the Red Grouse. These iconic moorland birds feed mostly on the tender shoots of heather. The moors’ varied habitats are also favoured by breeding curlews and Golden Plovers, which also like to feed on fresh new moorland growth. The older, leggier heather is favoured by Merlins for nesting in the summer, but they disperse over the whole of the moors in search of prey – especially pipits and skylarks – during autumn. They are often joined by the much-larger Hen Harriers and Short-eared Owls. For further birdlife, Lindisfarne (near to the Farne Islands) off the coast of Northumberland is the only regular breeding place in the British Isles for the Pale-Bellied Brent Geese from Svalbard in the Arctic Ocean, making it a wildlifeextra.com

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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Clockwise from left: Basking Shark swimming and filter feeding just below the surface off the coast of the Isle of Man; Red Grouse amongst the heather on North Yorkshire moorland; Common Guillemots in front of The Pinnacles of Staple Island, Farne Islands; Grey Seal pup swimming off the Farne Islands, Northumberland

nationally important site for the birds. Pink-footed Geese also winter here, along with Grey Plovers, Bar-Tailed Godwits, and Purple Sandpipers.

WEST Off England’s mainland, the relatively small Isle of Man offers wildlife a wide range of enticing habitats, from cliff edges and woodland glens, to mountains and wide, open moors. One of the most important habitats on the island is the Ballaugh Curragh wetland, which has a network of boarded walks. As you wander through areas of bog myrtle, willow scrub, bog pools, marshy grasslands, and birch woodland, keep an eye out for that elusive bird, the Corncrake, which likes to hide under the abundant royal fern. Another reclusive creature lives beneath you, deep in the heart of the island – the Cave Spider, one of Britain’s largest, yet notoriously difficult to find. You may, though, see a wildlifeextra.com

DECEMBER 2014 85

ESSENTIAL BRITAIN

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From top: a swift flying across a misty dawn on Lake Windermere in the Lake District; a Natterjack Toad at Ainsdale in Lancashire; a young male Merlin with first year plumage perched on a dead branch above bilberry and flowering heather on the edge of moorland in North Yorkshire

86 DECEMBER 2014

Red-Necked wallaby: 20–30 of them escaped from captivity many years ago, and now run wild in the Curragh. But it’s the amazing number of Hen Harriers that makes this site so special. Visit Close Sartfield nature reserve, within the Ballaugh Curragh, and you’ll see the largest Hen Harrier roosting site in Western Europe, with up to 80 of the birds coming in to roost. Another Manx star is the chough, which can be seen around the cliffs to the south and west of the island, or foraging along the tideline. In winter, you can watch groups of up to 40 sweeping in, noisily calling to each other. Take a boat to the Calf of Man to see seabirds: the bird observatory there has recorded Manx Shearwaters, Razorbills, cormorants, fulmars, and Puffins. Harbour Porpoises swim in the waters around the islands, joined by Bottlenose Dolphins in winter. From the end of May, Basking Sharks are also spotted in high numbers here, particularly to the south of the island. East of the island is Cumbria, with its much celebrated Lake District National

Park, with its most famous lake, Windermere. The lake is a nationally important place for wildlife, hosting wintering birds such as Goldeneye and Tufted Duck. Charr, usually found in Arctic waters, also make their home here, along with otters. Further south, and lying just to the north of Liverpool, WWT Martin Mere provides an important winter home for Whooper Swans and Pink-footed Geese. Nearby, the Ainsdale Dunes in Merseyside are the stronghold of the rare Natterjack Toad, and home to Britain’s most protected amphibian, the Great Crested Newt. Also found here is the rare Sand Lizard, although, being shy, it is rarely seen. The Peak District, lying further inland and to the east of Manchester’s urban sprawl, forms the southern end of the Pennines and is composed of diverse habitats, including moorland, woodland, and internationally important peat bogs. A number of different species of birds of prey can be found here, including Barn, Little and Tawny Owls, Kestrels and Buzzards. It is also the habitat of a population of Mountain Hares. But if it’s Brown Hares you want, head to Lyme Park in Cheshire. The estate is an ideal place to watch one of the most bizarre of all natural spectacles: the stand-up boxing matches of the wild Brown Hares. If you want to witness these extravagant rituals at Lyme Park, one of the best places is The Cage, an ornate 18thcentury hunting lodge that offers a vast panorama of the Cheshire Plain and even the foothills of Snowdonia, and provides a fine vantage point for hare-watching. There is also a thriving Brown Hare population at Bleasdale near Preston, Lancashire, where the animals are encouraged by local farmers. When summer arrives, butterfly fans should visit Gait Barrows in Lancashire to see plentiful butterflies, including the Duke of Burgundy Butterfly, one of the UK’s most rapidly declining butterfly species.

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MY WALES RUTH MILLER/ALAN DAVIES Bird tour guides As we climbed towards the moors one September morning it was not looking good – fog, the last thing we wanted! We could only see a few feet ahead and our hearts sank. But we could hear the unmistakable calls of Black Grouse. Luckily the fog drifted and we could make out the dark shapes of three grouse. We waited, listening to the bizarre calls and then the mist began to thin. Now we could really enjoy the spectacle of lekking Black Grouse! At one point a Red Grouse landed between us and the Black Grouse – it was fantastic to have both species in the same view. In the woodland below the moor we spotted Great Spotted Woodpecker, Goldcrest and Coal Tit. A river held a pair of Dipper which showed off in the sunshine. A brilliant morning. www.thebiggesttwitch.com

88 DECEMBER 2014

Wales ISLANDS Skomer Island off the Pembrokeshire coast is an absolute must for an annual visit from birdwatchers. The best time is between late April and mid July, when an impressive 250,000 pairs of seabirds nest on the island each year. Puffins are the star attraction here with over 12,000 birds usually nesting. Visitors are constantly amazed at the tameness of the birds and everyone gets a photograph. The stacks and cliffs are also crowded with thousands of Guillemots, Razorbills and Kittiwakes. Over 100,000 pairs of Manx Shearwaters also nest, coming to the island in the dark of night to return to their nesting burrows. The island is also home to a colony of over 200 seals. To the east of Skomer, further out to sea, lies Grassholm Island, which boasts one of the world’s largest Northern Gannet populations

with more than 34,000 breeding pairs. Also lying off Pembrokeshire’s coast is Ramsey Island, where choughs and Puffins nest. The island has a permanent population of Atlantic Grey Seals, which is one of the worlds’ most important colonies. In the surrounding waters, Sea Otters, turtles, and Sunfish can sometimes be seen, although sightings are rare, and Blue and Mako Sharks can also occasionally be spotted.

MAINLAND The moors of North Wales are great for seeing Red and Black Grouse, which you can watch lekking during autumn. Not far away is the spectacular Snowdonia National Park, where you can see Peregrine and Ring Ouzels, and its two unique species: the Snowdon Lily and the Rainbow Leaf Beetle. Be on the look out too, for the park’s rare Carneddau ponies. wildlifeextra.com

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In fact, you can see wild ponies at several sites in Wales: Black Mountain, in the Brecon Beacons National Park, the great raised bog of Cors Caron at Tregaron and on the saltmarshes of the Burry Inlet on the north shore of the Gower Peninsula. In South Wales on the Gower Peninsula there’s a good chance of seeing passing Manx Shearwaters and gannets over the sea, and the cliffs have ravens, jackdaws, choughs, Stonechats, Linnets, and Yellowhammers. Buzzards are common on Gower, while Oxwich Marsh has Reed and wildlifeextra.com

Sedge Warblers, herons, and Kingfishers. Wild Salmon can be seen leaping upstream at Cenarth Falls in Ceredigion, Pembrokeshire, and Bottlenose Dolphins can be sighted off nearby Cardigan Bay. Raptor fans will most certainly want to visit Gigrin Farm near Rhayader, midWales, which is an excellent place to go to see Red Kites. The birds are fed at the farm daily. There are also Badger setts nearby, and live pictures of the animals are relayed to the Red Kite Interpretive Centre on summer evenings.

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Clockwise from far left: a Northern Gannet breeding colony nesting on sea cliffs at Grassholm RSPB Reserve; a pair of Grey Seals frolicking among the waves; an Atlantic Puffin on Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire; wild ponies in the Brecon Beacons, Wales

DECEMBER 2014 89

BRYDON THOMASON Owner, Shetland Nature The Shetland Islands and their charms offer many attractions to wildlife lovers from all corners of the world. There is one species however that does so more than most: the Eurasian Otter. Otters are one of the most charismatic and captivating mammals in Britain. Few creatures encapsulate both the ‘aw’ and the ‘wow’ factors like otters; from their stealthy hunting and predatory abilities to their intimate and playful antics. Owing to the open nature of the coasts they inhabit and their high density here, Shetland is arguably the best place in Britain to see Eurasian Otters. Here otters evolved to be at home in the coastal environment where they thrive in the wild, remote and breathtakingly beautiful coastal habitats. www.shetlandnature.net

90 DECEMBER 2014

Scotland EAST The forests of the beautiful Spey Valley are home to the Pine Marten, one of our most beautiful and – until recently – most elusive mammals. There is also a good chance of seeing Red and Roe Deer and even the fantastically rare and shy Scottish Wildcat has been known to turn up here on occasion. The nearby Moray Firth offers perhaps your best chance of seeing Bottlenose Dolphins in the UK, boasting the world’s most-northerly colony and one of only two resident populations in the UK. Head out into the Moray Firth and you could also encounter Harbour Porpoise, Common and Grey Seals and even the occasional Minke Whale. There’s also plenty to see for birders visiting Culbin Sands on the Moray Firth, including Eider and Long-tailed Ducks, Common and Velvet Scoters, shelducks, turnstones, Knots, and Osprey. For a further chance to see Osprey, visit Loch Garten in Abernethy

Forest in the Cairngorms, also a good location to see the iconic Capercaillie. The Cairngorms will never let you down when it comes to wildlife. Snow Buntings and Ptarmigans breed here, although they can be hard to find, and Golden Eagles patrol searching for Mountain Hare prey. Red Grouse and Red Deer live on the lower slopes in summer, and a herd of around 150 Scandinavian Reindeer roam around the foot of the mountain. A few lucky visitors might even spot a Scottish Wildcat or Pine Marten. For those keen to witness the dramatic Atlantic Salmon run, the Falls of Braan or Philiphaugh Salmon Viewing Centre in Selkirk during autumn are the best places to see this spectacle. Meanwhile, Loch Leven National Nature Reserve provides food and shelter for thousands of birds in the autumn and winter, and offers one of the best places in the UK to get views of wild geese.

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Clockwise from top: a Bottlenose Dolphin leaping in rough sea in the Moray Firth; a male Capercailli in threat display in the Cairngorms National Park; a European Wild Cat climbing a pine tree; a hill walker enjoying the view of Loch Trool in Galloway; a Red Deer stag in winter

WEST The large reserve of Inverpolly on the northwest coast of Scotland is a mix of mountains, bogs, lochs and rushing streams. The high tops are home to Ptarmigans and Golden Eagles. By contrast to the rugged landscape of Inverpolly, Loch Spynie in Moray is surrounded by woodlands, reed beds and fen. It is famous for the huge numbers of Greylag and Pink-footed Geese that roost in winter. Keen birders should also visit Lochwinnoch to the east of Glasgow for Great Crested Grebes, Grasshopper Warbler, Reed Bunting, Water Rail, Smew and Hen Harriers in their seasons. Directly north of the loch lies Flanders Moss, the largest raised bog in Britain and home to Roe Deer and a colony of Mountain Hares. wildlifeextra.com

Visit in winter to see the hares’ striking white winter coat, and the flocks of Grey Geese that roost here. When in western Scotland a visit to Galloway Forest Park shouldn’t be missed. At 780 sq km (300 sq miles) it is the largest forest park in Britain and provides great opportunities to see Red Deer. For marine life, The Minch strait can occasionally provide sightings of Longfinned Pilot Whales from April to September. No visit to Scotland would be complete without visiting the home of the newly reintroduced Beaver, and Knapdale Forest is the place to go for this. Walk the Scottish Beaver Trail and even if you don’t spot a beaver, you’ll certainly see evidence of their presence in the area. DECEMBER 2014 91

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ISLANDS Islay is the winter home of thousands of wild geese. The most numerous are Barnacle Geese with smaller numbers of Greenland White-fronted Geese. Keep a look out, too, for the shyer island inhabitants, like the Red, Fallow and Roe Deer. Common and Grey Seals inhabit the coast, Brown Hare are widespread, and Risso’s Dolphins are commonly seen offshore. In winter, Hen Harriers hunt over the lower moors and you just might have a once-in-alifetime encounter with a Golden Eagle, or the rarer White-tailed Eagle. Look out, too, for Red-billed Choughs. Golden and White-tailed Eagles are also present on nearby Jura, which boasts large numbers of Eider Ducks that frequent the bays with Black Guillemots and occasionally Great Northern and Red-throated Divers. Otters, too, are known in these areas. The Isle of Skye is the largest island of the Inner Hebrides. Its northern tip provides a dramatic backdrop for seabirds, including fulmars, Kittiwakes and Shags. The Isle of Mull, another Inner Hebridean island, is well known both for its seabirds and birds of prey, including Golden and White-tailed Eagles. You might also catch a glimpse of the elusive Scottish Wildcat and, turning your attention out to sea, you might 92 DECEMBER 2014

be lucky enough to spot a Basking Shark. The Isle of Arran’s large bird population lives alongside otters, Red Deer, Red Squirrels and Brown Hare, while offshore Minke Whale and Harbour Porpoise abound. Grey Seals predominate in western Scotland on the Isle of May (the largest British pupping site), the Treshnish Islands and on the Monach Isles, where they are abundant, numbering around 10,000 each autumn and making this colony one of the largest in the world. Further west lies the small island of St Kilda, home to the largest colony of Northern Gannets in the world and the most important seabird breeding station in northwest Europe. For the world’s third largest single rock colony of Northern Gannets, visit Bass Rock off the east coast. Off the northeast coast are the Orkney Islands. Visit Birsay Moors for a chance to see Hen Harriers, Merlins, and Short-eared Owls, as well as seabirds and waterfowl such as the Arctic Skua, Red-throated Diver, and Long-tailed Duck. The Shetland Islands, to the far northeast, are home to a number of seabirds such as Puffins, gannets, skua, Razorbills, fulmar and Kittiwakes, while otters, dolphins, porpoises, seals, and even the occasional Humpback Whale can be seen offshore.

Top: Barnacle Geese on Loch Indaal, Islay. Above: a herd of Red Deer resting in front of the castle at Loch Ranza on the Isle of Arran

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Scottish wildlife special with Wild Travel

Reader Holiday

5 NIGHTS DB&B from only £430 ENJOY AN EXCLUSIVE FIVE-NIGHT WILDLIFE BREAK IN THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS

oin Wild Travel magazine staff and experts from the Bird Watching and Wildlife Club, which is part of the Grant Arms Hotel at Grantownon-Spey, Inverness-shire, for a special wildlife holiday in Speyside and the Cairngorms. The holiday consists of dinner, bed and breakfast, guided walks, expert advice and spotting tips, evening talks given by guest speakers, and film shows. All this for only £430 per person sharing a standard double room. A stay at the Grant Arms Hotel is perfect for keen wildlife watchers of all levels. There are few other locations in the UK that can offer the range of wildlife you can find in this spectacular area of Scotland, and the April breeding season is a great time to experience it. The hotel, in the Cairngorms National Park, is known for its high quality ensuite rooms and delicious food sourced from local producers. It is also home to the Bird Watching and Wildlife Club, the expert staff of which will be on hand to guide you, as well as offering advice and maps if you prefer to organise your own time.

THE WILDLIFE From grouse moor and Caledonian pine forest, to marshland and the coasts of the

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Moray Firth, the habitats of this Highland area offer the opportunity to see Red Deer, Bottlenose Dolphins, Red Squirrels, Golden Eagles, Capercaillies, Pine Martens, Mountain Hares, Ptarmigan, Otters, Wild Goats, Red and Black Grouse, Slavonian Grebes, Crested Tits and Crossbills, among many others. Within easy reach are a number of RSPB reserves such as Loch Garten, Culbin Sands, Insh Marshes, Troup Head and Udale Bay, all of them offering opportunities to see not just birds but iconic Scottish mammals and marine life. Of these, Insh Marshes is one of the most important wetlands in Europe, Troup Head boasts over 30,000 nesting sea birds between April and July and Culbin Sands is one of the largest shingle and sand dune habitats in Britain. A short stroll from the Grant Arms brings you to Anagach Wood which abounds with Red Squirrels and birdlife,

and the River Spey with its Dippers and Otters is nearby. The hotel also provides guests with access to a private hide on the loch at Avielochan.

THE SPEAKERS Friday 24 April at 8.30pm Mark Cocker on Birds & People Mark is an author, naturalist and environmental activist who writes and broadcasts on nature and wildlife in a variety of national media. His 10 books include Birds & People, which was published to international acclaim in 2013 and was a collaboration with wildlife photographer David Tipling. Monday 27 April at 8.30pm John Miles on Hadrian’s Wildlife John is a wildlife consultant, tour leader and the author of Hadrian’s Birds, which celebrates the landscape and its animal, plant and bird life, Exploring Lakeland’s Wildlife, Pharaoh’s Birds and The Solway.

HOLIDAY INFORMATION Friday 24 April to Wednesday 29 April 2015 This five-day break is held in partnership with Wild Travel magazine and includes: ■ Five nights dinner, bed and breakfast ■ Ensuite rooms, equipped with hairdryer, tea & coffee making facilities, TV and toiletries ■ Gala dinner ■ Evening events including talks from Mark Cocker and John Miles ■ Evening quiz ■ Guided walks ■ Films and entertainment Please note: a car is essential on this break

PRICES ■ Double standard room for five

nights DB&B £430 ■ Extra nights DB&B £48 per

person per night ■ Superior room supplement £75

per person per five-night stay

TO BOOK ■ Call 01479 872526 ■ Or visit www.bwwc.co.uk ■ Or email bookings@bwwc.co.uk

BWWC LTD, 25 THE SQUARE, GRANTOWN-ONSPEY, INVERNESS-SHIRE PH26 3HF www.grantarmshotel.com Programmes, talks, walks and rooms subject to availability and liable to change without notice. DECEMBER 2014 93

BRITISH WILDLIFE JANUARY

MARCH

MAY

BIRDS: Waxwings on the east coast; Bewick’s Swans at Slimbridge, Glos, the Ouse, Yorks and Nene Washes, Cambs, and at Martin Mere, Lancs; wintering geese in Norfolk; Barnacle Geese on Islay in the Inner Hebrides; Surf Scoters at Fife MAMMALS: Mountain Hares in the Highlands and Peak District; Reindeer in the Cairngorms MARINE LIFE: Bottlenose Dolphins at Cardigan Bay and Land’s End, Cornwall

BIRDS: Flycatchers, warblers and chats at Scolt Head Island, Norfolk; Golden Orioles, Hoopoes, and Woodchat Shrikes on Scilly Isles; Grey Herons at Northward Hill, Kent; Stone Curlew at Breckland, East Anglia MAMMALS: Hares at Lyme Park, Stockport, Cheshire, and Havergate Island, Suffolk; Water Voles at Rainham Marshes, London REPTILES: Green Lizards on Jersey; Adders at the Suffolk Sandlings MARINE LIFE: Dolphins at Culbin Sands in Moray Firth, Highlands

BIRDS: Cuckoos in southern England; Nightingales at Fingringhoe Wick, Essex; Puffins and Manx Shearwaters on Farne Islands, Northumbria, and Skomer, Pembroke; Corncrake at Balranald Reserve, Uist; Hobby at Shapwick Heath, Somerset INSECTS: Duke of Burgundy Butterflies at Gait Barrows, Lancs; Swallowtail Butterflies and Norfolk Hawkers on Norfolk Broads MARINE LIFE: Long-finned Pilot Whales on The Minch strait, Scotland

FEBRUARY

APRIL

JUNE

BIRDS: Starlings at Slapton Ley, Devon, and Westhay Moor, Somerset Levels; Golden Eagles on the Isle of Arran; Red Kites at Gigrin Farm, Powys MAMMALS: Otters on the Isle of Arran, and at Druridge Bay, Northumbria; Exmoor Ponies on Exmoor; Hares in the Peak District; Roe Deer at Windsor Great Park; Roe and Fallow deer in the New Forest

BIRDS: Great Crested Grebes at Lochwinnoch, Renfrew; Black Grouse at Corrimony, Capercaillies at Loch Garten, Slavonian Grebes at Loch Ruthven, all in the Highlands; Blacknecked Grebes at Woolston Eyes, Cheshire; Bitterns at Leighton Moss, Lancs; Goshawks in the Forest of Dean MAMMALS: Wild Boar in the Forest of Dean REPTILES: Natterjack Toats at Ainsdale Dunes, Merseyside MARINE LIFE: Freshwater Salmon in the Wye Valley

BIRDS: Nightjars at Clumber Park, Notts; Honey Buzzards in Haldon Forest, Devon; Marsh Harriers and Barn Owls at Blacktoft Sands, Yorks; Arctic Tern, Puffins and Guillemots on the Farne Islands, Northumbria INSECTS: Marbled White, Common Blue and Essex Skipper butterflies at Canvey Wick, Essex; Painted Ladies, Red Admirals and Peacock butterflies at Blacktoft Sands, Yorks; Glow worms at Minsmere, Suffolk MARINE LIFE: Minke Whales, east coast of Shetland Islands

94 DECEMBER 2014

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CALENDAR

From winter migrating geese to a flurry of summer butterflies and everything in between, our calendar will help you to make the most of British wildlife

JULY

SEPTEMBER

NOVEMBER

BIRDS: Kittiwakes at Bempton Cliffs, Yorks; Gannets at Bass Rock; Choughs at Ramsey Island, Pembroke; Osprey at Abernethy Forest, Highland; Puffins on Skomer Island, Pembroke. INSECTS: Silver-washed Fritillary, White Admiral and Purple Emperor butterflies at Bookham Commons, Surrey, and Bentley Wood, Hants; Stag Beetles at Wimbledon Common; Dragonflies at Wicken Fen, Cambs MARINE LIFE: Bottlenose Dolphins, Minke Whales Moray Firth; Basking Sharks near Isle of Mull and Devon

BIRDS: Hen Harriers, Merlins and Short-eared Owls at Birsay Moors, Orkney; waders at Minsmere, Suffolk; Gannets and Pomarine Skua at Flamborough, Yorks; rare migrant birds on the Scilly Isles MAMMALS: Red Deer at Leighton Moss, Lancs; Lesser White-toothed Shrew on the Scilly Isles MARINE LIFE: Humpback Whales off the southern tip of Shetland; Risso’s Dolphins off the coast of Orkney

BIRDS: Wigeons and Bar-tailed Godwits at the Ouse Washes, Cambs; Pale-bellied Brent and Pink-footed geese on Lindisfarne, Northumbria; Avocets at Exe Estuary, Devon; Starlings at Somerset Avalon Marshes MAMMALS: Red Deer in Richmond Park, London; Wildcat and Pine Marten in the Scottish Highlands; Grey Seal pups at Donna Nook, Norfolk MARINE LIFE: Salmon at Ettrick Weir, Scottish borders

AUGUST

OCTOBER

DECEMBER

BIRDS: Black-throated Divers, and Golden Plovers at Forsinard Flows, Highland; Golden and Sea Eagles, Isle of Mull; Wilson’s Storm Petrels and Great Shearwater, Isles of Scilly MAMMALS: Grey and Common Seals at Blakeney Harbour, Norfolk INSECTS: Painted Lady Butterflies and Hummingbird Hawkmoths on the Isle of Wight MARINE LIFE: Minke, Fin and Sperm whales, Harbour Porpoises, Bottlenose Dolphins in Bay of Biscay; Basking Shark at the Lizard, Cornwall

BIRDS: Pink-footed Geese, Whooper and Bewick’s swans at Martin Mere, Lancs; migratory wildfowl at Loch Leven, Perth MAMMALS: Red Squirrels at Brownsea Island, Dorset; Grey Seals on the Farne Islands, Northumbria, and the Monach Islands, Hebrides MARINE LIFE: Salmon at the Falls of Braan, Cenarth Falls and Stainforth Force on the River Ribble, and at the Philiphaugh Salmon Viewing Centre in Selkirk, and the Falls of Shin Visitors Centre

BIRDS: Pied Wagtails, Norwich, Norfolk; Eider Ducks at the Firth of Forth; Pink-footed Geese, Goldeneye and Hen Harriers at Snettisham, Norfolk; Waxwings in Northumberland; Goshawks in the New Forest; Short-eared Owls at Bempton Cliffs, Yorks; Long-tailed Ducks on the coast of Orkney MAMMALS: Grey Seals at Lindisfarne, Northumbria; otters at Shapwick Heath, Somerset MARINE LIFE: Harbour Porpoises, Bottlenose Dolphins off Isle of Man

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DECEMBER 2014 95

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PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP

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GO TIGER WATCHING RESPONSIBLY Sarah Bareham from ResponsibleTravel.com passes on her tips for ensuring your tiger safari helps conserve beautiful endangered creatures, not disturb them

ith just 3,000 tigers left in the wild worldwide it is no wonder that the privileged few who get a glimpse of orange and black stripes on their safari have described the experience as highly emotional and a deeply spiritual moment. To put this priviledge into perspective, there are more tigers in captivity in the USA than in the wild anywhere. It’s a chilling figure, and one which highlights clearly the need for responsible, responsive tourism that bolsters the efforts of local conservation initiatives. So how can we, as tourists ensure our trip of a lifetime doesn’t threaten the lives of the animals we desperately want to see?

Keep it local Three seemingly unstoppable forces; deforestation, development and the Chinese medicine industry, coupled with underlying issues of poverty, have spelled disaster for the world’s tiger populations. Quite simply, there is often more value in selling off the forest habitats and poaching tigers for the lucrative Chinese medicine trade than there is in preservation and conservation. Responsible tourism offers just one way for tigers to fight back; by involving local communities in tourism and giving real economic value to keeping habitats intact, and the animals alive. Tiger lovers should look for safaris and tours that use locally owned accommodations, employ local guides and source produce from local farmers and tradesmen. Homestays and other community-based tourism initiatives are a great way to ensure your holiday money goes directly to local people – while also getting a memorable

glimpse of a big cat. But how do you go about finding a tiger safari which benefits local communities and conservation? It’s easy: ask questions, lots of them. A responsible tour operator will welcome your interest in how their trip contributes to conservation, and how it supports local people. A good resource is Tour Operators for Tigers (www.toftigers.org) which campaigns for responsible tiger tourism in India.

Hands off However, with well-managed tiger safaris not a budget holiday option, it can be tempting for tiger-lovers to settle for sanctuary and rescue-centre sightings. These opportunities exist worldwide, and although some are doing sterling work to protect tigers, others have less conservation and more profiteering aims at heart. For example, it is our organisation’s policy to not market any trips that offer visits to the Wat Pa Luangta Bua

Yannasampanno Forest Monastery in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, commonly known as the Tiger Temple. Through consultation with the NGO, Care for the Wild, it is clear the centre makes no discernible contribution to conservation and there are serious concerns about the tigers’ welfare; with poor accommodation, lack of suitable environments and deliberate physical abuse to make them compliant to pose with tourists. We encourage travellers to avoid visiting and supporting the Temple, and to avoid any sanctuary which allow hands-on contact with tigers and their cubs. Care for the Wild’s Right Tourism campaign (right-tourism.com) is a good resource to help tourists find a sanctuary with genuine conservation aims. ■ Responsibletravel.com (www. responsibletravel.com) is a good place to start your holiday research, as all trips on the site have been screened to ensure their commitment to responsible tourism.

Write and tell us about your wildlife experiences by emailing editorial@wildtravelmag.com wildlifeextra.com

DECEMBER 2014 97

6NLOOV

Theknowledge

Add a little extra knowhow to your wildlife-watching adventures with the help of our expert mini-guides

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BUILDING A DRY STONE WALL Dry stone walls provide valuable habitat for wildlife, says Alison Shaw of the Dry Stone Walling Association. Here are her tips for making a successful wall

ry stone walling is a sustainable practice that uses locally sourced materials, very few mechanical tools and requires limited maintenance. Built correctly, walls should stand for many years; outlasting a fence several times over. They are built without mortar or cement, which allows the structure to settle naturally and resist frost damage. Walls provide valuable wildlife habitat for plants, animals and insects and act as wildlife corridors for species to move about safely and undisturbed. Lichens and mosses also find a home on a dry stone wall and livestock appreciate the shelter it can offer during unsettled weather. The profile of a dry stone wall should look like a capital letter ‘A’, tapering evenly

towards the top. The largest stones are used for the foundation and should be placed at the bottom of the wall along the line of the proposed boundary in a row two deep. Large, flattish stones should then be used for subsequent rows, diminishing in size as the wall rises. Each stone should touch the one beside it as much as possible, covering the joints below, so it’s one stone on two, followed by two stones on one. A stone should be placed with its length reaching into the wall and small stones, or hearting, should be placed in the middle as

you build to fill up the gap between the sides. Part way up, large stones should be placed across the width of the wall, helping to spread the weight, (think the cross-bar in the letter A). Cope stones complete the wall and are placed across the top and wedged as tightly as possible to protect it. www.dswa.org.uk

Coping with Leeches Specialist travel health nurse Beverly Tompkins gives us the lowdown on leeches; how to avoid them and what to do if they latch on to take a bite… Travellers with itineraries that involve trekking through rainforest and jungle environments can be at significant risk of coming into contact with leeches as they walk through damp, humid areas and wade through freshwater and rivers. They should wear leech socks to protect themselves. These come up over the knee and are made of tightly woven fabric that prevents leeches finding their way to the skin. They’re worn over socks but under trekking boots. When leeches bite, their teeth clamp onto the skin and with suction start to feed on the host’s blood. Leeches feed for around 30 minutes but are known to take longer. Once they have finished feeding they will naturally detach themselves to digest. Leeches are not known to spread

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disease, however careful removal of them is important to avoid subsequent infection at the wound site. It is extremely difficult to detach a leech from the skin whilst it is feeding. If it is pulled off the wound is likely to bleed due to the anticoagulant the animals release to aid feeding. In this case there is a risk that the wound will become infected and ulcerated. The best thing to do is to wait until the leech detaches itself. In an emergency, salt, a lighter flame or cigarette to burn the leech can encourage it to release itself from the skin. However, there is a risk however that these methods of removal can cause the leech to vomit its stomach contents into the wound and cause infection. www.nomadtravel.co.uk

Theknowledge

ʘLɢ ʙLVɢ Christmas Gifts Make your Christmas presents count this year and help a wildlife charity in its work 1 BORN FREE

Support the conservation charity Born Free in its care for wild animals across the world by adopting an animal in its care. You can choose anything from a Polar Bear to a giraffe, and not forgetting lions! The money helps provide for the animal’s daily food, care and protection, and helps preserve the species in the wild. The recipient of your present will get a great gift pack and regular news updates. From £2.50 a month, www.bornfree.org. uk/give/adopt-an-animal 2 ORCA A dolphin and whale watching trip could make a great present for someone you know. Run by the marine conservation charity ORCA in association with Brittany Ferries from July-September, these trips offer unforgettable opportunities to discover and learn more about whales, dolphins and seabirds in the Bay of Biscay. Each trip is three days long and experienced guides conduct deck-watches whilst at sea, to help passengers spot the wildlife. They also give on-board wildlife presentations about the species that could be encountered. From £170, www.orcaweb.org.uk

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WILDLIFE HOSPITAL Assist this veterinary hospital in treating injured wildlife by giving someone a ‘virtual ‘ present by sponsoring something the charity urgently needs, from bandages to swan rescuing kits. Or if you know someone who would love to get some hands-on experience looking after wildlife, why not treat them to Wildlife Keeper Experience? Tiggywinkles treats over 10,000 animal casualties a year and is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. From £11.90, www.sttiggywinkles.org.uk 4 WORLD LAND TRUST The World Land Trust (WLT) is an international conservation charity which protects the world’s most biologically important and threatened habitats acre by acre. You can support its work and help secure more land by buying your Christmas cards direct from the charity. Or for something different, you could treat someone to a virtual present such as sponsoring a tree or supporting one of its Keepers of the Wild. From £5, www.worldlandtrust.org/ supporting/christmas-gifts-wltk

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6 DAVID SHEPHERD WILDLIFE FOUNDATION The charity sells a huge range of beautiful wildlife paintings, prints and gifts, including works by its founder, wildlife artist and conservationist, David Shepherd CBE, and other members of his family. The money that is raised benefits the animals that the charity works to protect. From £20, www.davidshepherd.org

Why not treat someone to membership of the WWT? Members can visit all of the nine wetland sites throughout the UK, from Arundel Wetland Centre in West Sussex to Castle Espie Wetland Centre in Northern Ireland as often as they like, whenever they like. Members also receive a copy of the quarterly magazine Waterlife so they can keep up with the charity’s news. From £41 for an adult, www.wwt.org.uk

7 BRITISH DIVERS MARINE LIFE RESCUE If you know someone who loves marine life you could treat them to a day-long marine mammal medic course run by the BDMLR. The charity trains the participant to assist with cetacean strandings and other marine life emergencies. Once the course has been completed successfully, the participant goes on a database, so if an emergency arises they can be called on to help. £90, www.bdmlr.org.uk

8 RSPB This virtual pressie from the RSPB goes directly to creating new wildflower meadows for bumblebees in the UK. And with this scheme there are many other species or areas you can also help the RSPB to protect, from Hen Harriers to Minsmere Reserve in Suffolk. Your recipient will also receive a £5 RSPB gift card to spend online. From £10, www.rspb.org.uk

WILD TRAVEL MAGAZINE And while you’re buying presents, don’t forget you can get a great deal by taking out a subscription to Wild Travel. It would make a great present for the wildlife lovers among your friends and family. Subscriptions start from £10.99 for six months at www.subscriptionsave.co.uk/Lifestyle-Magazines/Wild-Travel

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Theknowledge

5HDG DOO DERXW LW A roundup of wildlife books, DVDs and upcoming natural history TV we think you’ll enjoy

FILM

ʛʖʜXɀHɡ ʨL ʃɓ

TIM PHILLIPS Animals Defenders International Vice President Tim Phillips talks to us about producing the award-winning film Lion Ark Tell us about the film

Lion Ark tells the story of how the circus ban was won in Bolivia and how we managed to rescue every single circus animal. It takes you right into the heart of the action, and you can feel our frustration and elation as we overcome obstacles to get the animals. We wanted to produce a feature length film that would tell the story from the exposé and winning the circus ban to the rescue and relocation of the animals. We also wanted to make a film that would tell the animals’ story and raise awareness of their plight and say how people can help. Were there any anxious moments?

The most tense seizure was San Borja. It was chaotic, with people shouting and swearing, scuffles, and the owner brandishing a knife. We thought he was going to stab someone, but instead he slashed the tyres of the lion trailer. Day-to-day we had to be very careful when working around the lions, never

BOOKS

Landscape Photographer of the Year collection 8 (AA publishing, RRP £25) Our price £19.99, quote WT078

The UK is famous for its diverse and often dramatic scenery, from its rocky coastlines to remote moorlands. This coffee-table book is a celebration of that scenery and is filled with the winning and highly commended photographs from the prestigious Landscape Photographer of the Year competition.

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forgetting how dangerous they could be. There was one point when we had to move Colo Colo but his cage door had rusted shut, leaving us no choice but to fix it – a nerve-racking experience when all that stood between ourselves and a particularly aggressive lion were a few rusty bars! How did you get into film making?

The Animals Film – a powerful documentary about the use and abuse of animals – had a profound impact on me and spurred me into quitting my job in banking. I bought an SLR camera and went inside laboratories, animal dealers, factory farms, slaughterhouses, fur farms and circuses. I learnt about making films by producing campaign videos for many leading animal protection groups. Did the reception of the film surpass your expectations?

Yes! We have had sell-out screenings, rave reviews, and won a number of

Birds of India Bikram Grewal and Garima Bhatia (John Beaufoy Publishing, RRP £11.99) Our price £8.99, quote WT082 This superbly illustrated, pocket-sized guide to the most common birds of India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan and Sri Lanka is a must if you are planning a visit. Nearly 300 species are featured and all come with a clear colour photo and details on their appearance, distribution, habitat, diet and vocal sound.

awards. Aced Magazine even touted it for the Oscars. We also premiered the Spanish version of the film – Arca de Leones – in Bolivia to huge media coverage. It feels good to see how the animals touch people’s hearts, as much as they have ours. What’s next?

Lion Ark will be screening in cinemas across the UK during late November and December –– and in the US in the coming months. We have also just signed an exclusive deal with ITV Studios Global Entertainment to distribute the film worldwide, so expect to see Lion Ark on TV, DVD, and more in the near future. It’s incredibly exciting. www.lionarkthemovie.com; www.stopcircussuffering.org

Wonders of the Plant Kingdom Wolfgang Stuppy, Rob Kesseler and Madeline Harley (Papadakis, RRP £19.99) Our price £15.99, quote WT081 A fascinating photographic book filled with stunning microscopic images that illustrate the plant kingdom in a totally new and remarkable light. It explains in great visual detail a plant’s life story from how they reproduce and ensure their species survival to how they help preserve the biodiversity of our planet.

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Theknowledge TV

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BBC 2, January 2015 Renowned naturalist Sir David Attenborough has had a fascination with birds of paradise all his life. This programme follows him as he uncovers the remarkable story of how these birds have captivated explorers, naturalists, artists, filmmakers and even royalty. He explores the myths surrounding their discovery, their extraordinary behaviour, and reveals the scientific truth behind their beauty.

JEWEL HUNTER

Chris Gooddie, WildGuides, RRP £17.99 Our price £13.99, quote WT077 Duncan Macdonald, the founder of Wild Sounds & Books, recommends another of his all-time favourite wildlife books

DVDS

Among the best big year/birding adventure books ever written. Each chapter reads like a mini-travel novel. Chris escapes his midlife crisis from High Wycombe and journeys to the steamy, leechinfested rainforests of remotest Asia, Africa, and Australia to see some of Earth’s most secretive and beautiful birds - the Pittas. Be careful where you read it, as it is both compelling and laugh-outloud funny. I almost got kicked off a flight for laughing when reading it on a plane in smog-bound Chengdu, China. The cabin crew thought I was becoming hysterical after three hours sitting on the tarmac!

Seeing Butterflies Philip Howse (Papadakis, RRP £16.99) Our price £13.99, quote WT079 The world of butterflies and moths has been captured in minute detail in a fascinating book that is filled with vibrant photographs and amazing facts. Author Philip Howse talks about many different species and explains how they evolved into the colourful patterned wonders they are today and their varied tactics for survival.

wildlifeextra.com

ATTENBOROUGH’S PARADISE BIRDS

ANIMAL WORLD VOLUME 4 3D-MEDIA.tv

Released on December 14, this film explores the volcanic Galapagos islands and its rich flora and fauna, both on the islands and in the ocean surrounding them, including the gentle Manatee. Go on and let yourself be transported to an exotic world full of wonder without leaving the comfort of your sofa.

From £6.75

LIFE STORY Missed it on TV? Here is a chance to watch this unique series all over again. Narrated by Sir David Attenborough, it takes the viewer on a journey through life in the animal kingdom, and follows the struggles and triumphs of individual animals. The DVD also includes an interview with Sir David and scenes showing how the series was made.

COUNTRYFILE – A CELEBRATION OF THE SEASONS Universal Pictures UK Follow the team through the seasons: Adam Henson is harvesting, Helen Skelton visits the Lake District, while Ellie Harrison manages her Cotswold orchard, and Matt Baker nets a spring catch in Southport. Also join John Craven in searching the seas for a mysterious marine creature. This DVD also includes 50 minutes of specially filmed footage.

From £17

From £17.75

BBC Earth

Haas The Great Blue Heron: The Beginning of an Adventure Juliane Flora (www.savetheriver.org, RRP £5.94) A charming, beautifully illustrated children’s book that tells the tale of a Great Blue Heron awaiting the arrival of its chick. Great Blue Herons are elegant wading birds that are common in Thousand Islands in New York State, North America, where this book is set. Proceeds from the book go to Save The River, an organisation working to protect and preserve the Upper St Lawrence River.

TO ORDER To purchase any of the featured books or DVDs at our special discounted price, go to: www.wildsounds.com/wildtravel or call: 01263 741 825 and quote the relevant offer code. Offers valid until 31 March 2015 Free postage for all UK orders. A percentage of every sale will be donated to our selected charity, World Land Trust (www.worldlandtrust.org)

In association with

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3KRWɛ ZʝʁNʂKʝɞ

READY FOR MY CLOSE-UP Wildlife photographer Laurie Campbell has spent a lifetime taking pictures of otters. The trick to getting a great shot, he says, is to know how they behave and interact with each other

y first ever sighting of a wild otter was in the 1960s on a family camping holiday to Ardnamurchan in Argyll. As a small boy, I was watched what I thought was a Common Seal swimming in the calm waters of Loch Sunart early one sunny morning. As it dived, I was surprised to see a very un-seal-like narrow tail flip over and at that moment I realised what I was seeing was something new to me. Months earlier, like a good proportion of the UK population, I had gone to our local cinema to see the film Ring of Bright Water. Thinking back to that delightful film reminded me that otters 102 DECEMBER 2014

do occur on the seashore and don’t just fit into the image that Henry Williamson had created in his book Tarka the Otter of the animals thriving in lowland rivers. In the UK at least, this was Lutra lutra, the Eurasian Otter, which in world terms is the most widespread of the 13 species of this group of mustelids. But these were the days when the UK population of otters living in freshwater habitats were almost mythical animals and rarely seen due to a serious decline in their numbers. This had been caused largely by a cocktail of toxic chemicals collectively known as organochlorines. Being at the top of the food chain,

predators suffered most due to the cumulative effect of the chemical building up in their bodies. Those times are largely gone now as the problem was recognised, leading to the use of many of those substances being banned. Moreover, a whole range of other measures to improve the water quality of our rivers were implemented, and although it has taken a few generations of otters for the effects of the toxins to dissipate, we are now starting to see what was once voted Britain’s favourite mammal re-colonise its previous strongholds. Their return is such a good news story, wildlifeextra.com

Theknowledge Left: staring at me over a seaweed-covered boulder on the Isle of Harris, this otter was in the middle of feeding on a thornback ray. Right: this otter is feeding in a fast-flowing river by ‘pounce-diving’ to turn over stones and disturb prey such as small fish. Below right: having captured this eel in mid-stream close to an estuary, the otter needed to bring it ashore to kill it before it could feed

WILD DECEMBER What else is about to photograph this month PTARMIGAN With their feathered legs, these hardiest of the grouse family are now in full white winter plumage. A good way of finding them in calm weather is to listen for the croaking calls that they make, otherwise scanning the route ahead with binoculars works well. Once found they are relatively confiding and not too difficult to approach. Locations: The Scottish Highlands

and it’s not difficult to understand why otters are so popular – the graceful way in which they move through water and their seemingly boundless energy and playful behaviour have not gone unnoticed. Wildlife parks have recognised this, and otters have always been a favourite attraction. The result of this is that for decades most of the photographs we saw of otters in freshwater settings were almost certainly of captive animals. Photographs of wild otters in marine environments were a different matter and after the release of the seminal 1982 BBC film by the renowned wildlife cameraman Hugh Miles, On the Track of the Wild Otter, about otters in Shetland, we began to see lots of photographs of the animals in amongst the seaweed on Scottish shores. So now, UK nature photographers have wildlifeextra.com

a choice of whether to photograph wild otters in freshwater or marine environments. In the latter case some of the best locations are undoubtedly in Shetland, the Hebrides, and North West Scotland. The Isle of Mull tends to attract a lot of attention from otter watchers but then the type of habitat where otters occur there, the rocky seaweed strewn shores and quiet sea lochs, can also be found along much of Scotland’s western seaboard and islands. So otters can just as easily be photographed elsewhere. The key thing to remember is that their periods of activity revolve around the tides and the best time to search for them feeding is from about two hours after high tide until two hours before the next high tide. Locating otters hunting in the seaweed isn’t easy and it’s very much a case of ‘getting your eye in’, becoming familiar with the size of the animal in the

WAXWINGS Waxwings are perhaps the most exotic-looking birds to visit our shores in winter. Their numbers depend upon the success of the crops of wild berries in Scandinavia and if these are poor then we can experience what is known as an ‘invasion’ where large numbers of hungry birds arrive to feed on anything from windfall apples to the berries of ornamental rowan trees. Locations: Arriving from the UK’s east coast and spreading west FOXES With the dieback of natural vegetation, mammals like Red Foxes have less cover in which to conceal themselves. Time of day is important; dawn arrives later in the winter making it easier for us to get out and into position while it’s still dark to stake out places where foxes routinely pass early in the morning. Locations: Throughout the UK

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Left: two otter cubs play-fighting, photographed from a river bridge; a great vantage point for spotting otters. Below right: an otter pair grooming and resting together on the shore

:KDɢ ɡ ʖɚ ʛɨ FʋȷʑUɈ EDɒ Laurie reveals the kit he relies on for photographing in the wild CAMERA First and foremost is a Nikon D4 digital SLR camera. Compared to the film-based cameras I used to photograph otters for decades, the arrival of digital capture and the ability to work with high ISO settings was revolutionary because it allows the use of faster shutter speeds to record action in marginal lighting conditions.

landscape and the tell-tale signs that give clues to its presence; clues such as irregular ripples in the water or the startled reactions of shorebirds disturbed by its passing. Otters will take a wide variety of prey from crabs to octopus, and just about any species of fish that they can catch. There is a limit to the size of prey that they can deal with in the water, though, so they need to bring larger items ashore before they can start to feed. These occasions can offer fantastic opportunities for shooting close-ups, simply because the otters are usually going to be at the same spot for a good while, until they have eaten their fill. Before following and moving closer to otters do bear in mind that, like most mammals, their senses of smell and hearing are far superior to ours. So you should always approach from downwind and as quietly as possible. Their eyesight is pretty good, too, so you have to keep low and move closer by crawling forward on all fours, using every feature in the landscape to keep below the skyline. Tripods can be impractical to use because they are slow to set up on uneven ground and there is risk of them clattering against rock. A better solution as you edge closer is to support cameras and long lenses with a beanbag placed on top of prominent rocks and boulders. Many of the field skills required to get 104 DECEMBER 2014

LENSES A Nikon 500mm f4 VR (vibration reduction) lens is my most-used lens on the seashore but for the more confined settings of ponds and small rivers, then a Nikon 200-400mm f4 VR zoom lens offers more flexibility. Whichever main lens I use, I always pack a Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 VR lens for the odd occasion when I’m exceptionally close to otters or want to photograph them in the landscape. CAMERA AND LENS SUPPORT Again habitat dictates which I use here. For rivers and freshwater wetlands, I favour a Gitzo 1548 carbon-fibre tripod fitted with a Sachtler fluid head to enable me to pan smoothly when following swimming otters. For seashores, I carry a custom-made beanbag to which I have stitched a belt with a quick-release buckle so that I can wear it around my waist, leaving both hands free to carry my camera and lens across awkward and often slippery surfaces. ACCESSORIES I carry polarising filters for all my lenses but only attach them when there is a need to darken a blue sky or reduce the glare from the surface of water in an attempt to photograph otters beneath the surface. close to otters in marine environments apply equally when photographing them in freshwater wetlands. The main difference, of course, is that their periods of activity are different. Whilst in the early days most were virtually nocturnal, in recent years they have become bolder and it’s not unusual to see them active in the middle of the day at some locations. One of the best examples of this were some exceptionally confident individuals that turned up on the Little Ouse River running through the middle of Thetford in Norfolk from late winter in 2013. It is highly likely that, in the not too distant future, photo opportunities such as this will be repeated around the UK, so keep searching and go prepared.

To transport my 70-200mm lens, filters, spare batteries and other kit, I wear an olive-green Billingham Hadley shoulder bag diagonally across my chest. With a handy waterproof lining, this canvas and leather bag has no noisy zipper or Velcro fastenings, allowing me to access anything I need in a hurry silently. ■ Share your wildlife photos at www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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TRACKING DOWN THE WILDLIFE OF EAST COAST USA

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...from Manatees to Bald Eagles

PLUS Love bears? Find out where in the world to see them ● How to take good animal photos in the snow ● Weapons of war that are helping conservation ● Fascinating facts about white rhinos ● In search of the rare Indian lions PRE-ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY TO SAVE £1 off the cover price and get free delivery in the UK! 1. Go to www.buyamag.co.uk/WT 2. Click to order the January 2015 issue 3. Enter the discount code 45WTR9

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WILD TRAVEL – December 2014 Hippos in Botswana

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Wildlife of St Lucia

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Cheetahs in Namibia

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Polar Bears in Greenland

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Essential Guide to Britain