Shannon Thompson
Design Realisation: Industrial Heritage Module DE0858 BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Marketing Year 2 Fiona Kitchman and Sarah Morehead
I experimented with printing on bond-a-web and fusing it to different materials. I found that because the bond-a-web is not a solid material, when it was fused to a lighter fabric this became more evident but on a dark fabric the image isn’t clear enough so a medium toned fabric works best.
Fabric free-hand machiene stitch onto digital print bond-a-web and interfacing to mimic tracing paper and pen experiments.
As a sarting point, I used the Women’s size 10 fitted bodice block and the women’s size 10 fitted trouser. I also made sure to give a 5cm allowance when connecting bodice to trouser for practicality. On the back of the jumpsuit I converted all or the darts into the two pleasts and gathers.
Pleat: Flattering feature to the back of the jumpsuit. Pleased with the depth of the pleat and shaping.
14cm Gather Test: Providesmore even gathers and is asthetically pleasing to the eye.
9cm Gather Test: Too small in proportion to the rest of the jumpsuite as a whole.
Side-seam pocket: Reduces layers of fabric being hidden in the lining but not as flattering as the other style.
In order to get a better fit between bodice and trouser, I had to alter the grain line of the trouser. Also, I changed the pant legs from narrow and fitted to flared and exaggerated.
Because my jumpsuit is without sleeves, I amended the length of the shoulder and adjusted the armhole accordingly. I then altered the neckline to the deep ‘V’ plunge. Also, I swung the bust dart to mtch up with the trouser dart and alligned them accordingly.
Neckline: Issue: too baggy around the bust. Resolution: swing extra volume into existing dart.
Shoulder: Issue: shoulder opening too big. Resolution: adjust pattern to reduce fullness.
Issue: diffictuly matching darts. Resolution: attatch top to top to trouser and create dart straight through.
Once I altered the bodice, I added the diaganal seam line connecting bodice to trouser making sure it alligned with the back seam. Also, as I was unsure of which pocket would work best, I decided to test both - one on either side.
Pocket: Works well with the overall style. My pocket of choice for the jumpsuit.
Contact sheet of Primary Research
A selection of some of my primary research photography which helped me to record information and use as a reference point throughout my research and through to my design development.
Fabrications
Pleat with top stitching
Velvet cut out sample
Free-hand stitch onto picture encased with interfacing
Fly zip sample
Pocket sample
Free-hand stitch onto digital printed bond-a-web
Cut out sample with inetrface backing
Elasticated channel sample
Mood Board
Colour Board
Developments Line-up
Range Plan