BLUEPRINT by o.walker

BLUEPRINT

EDITOR‘S LETTER Welcome to the first edition of Blueprint magazine. We are a monthly fashion and lifestyle magazine catered for you, showcasing fashion that is accessible to you, crafting articles that you want to read. We understand that reading a fashion publication that’s rich in editorial imagery is all well and good until you realise that the clothing you want to wear is out of reach and unrealistic in becoming part of your wardrobe. This is why the clothing we featured is handpicked from the high street to ensure it’s accessible but shot in a luxury, editorial way, showing the true potential of high street clothing. Styling advice and inspiration is a priority for Blueprint, we want to find clothes that are on trend whilst affordable - you don’t have to pick either/or. Through creative photography, we have fused style, culture and the portrayal of an artistic movement. We aim to exhibit a diverse range of people, as seen in true life, avoiding having to conform to ideals of beauty pushed onto us. Both

in this first edition and across editions to come, we will look into how their identity is explored through fashion and other means of self expression such as music and culture. We want to express the character of these people in a way that is authentic and raw, whilst still being relatable. Blueprint aren’t trying to make a political statement or patronise anyone by showcasing people of different ethnicities or genders or sizes. We want to keep things interesting and include everyone, as the fashion magazine industry is unfortunately notorious for not doing so. On behalf of the team behind Blueprint, it’s been a challenging, rewarding, fun and hectic process putting this first edition together. Thank you for reading, we hope you enjoy it x

All illustrations by Macey Roberts @darkenink @yec.am

CONTENTS

MARKET CULTURE

21 WEARING BUMBAGS

12 FASHION AND MUSIC

UNISEX CLOTHING

MALE SKINCARE

MODEST FASHION

A NEW WAY TO SHOP

THE NEW NUDE

A DENIM JACKET STORY THROWING SHADE

The Undeniable Advantages of Choosing to Wear a Bumbag this Season

Fashion works in a cyclical way, trends come in and out of rotation, causing our parents to nostalgically reminisce and look back on fond memories - or cringe and face palm at their fashion faux pas. A significant trend that came back on the catwalks this year was bum bags. We saw the likes of Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner with Gucci and Alexander Wang bags, worn in nonconventional ways. The fast-pace nature of fashion usually means this trend would’ve been worn out and discarded by now, however bum bags are here to stay. Before you rule them out, they can easily be styled in a way that doesn’t make you look like your selling fruit and veg. They allow for silhouette and proportions to be played with, cinching in at the waist or slung over the shoulder. Maybe even worn as a belt if you want to spice things up. The vast range of bum bags available allows us to embed bum bags into our everyday style, whether we are opting for chic, sporty or retro. As well as stylish they are practical, at festivals and gigs you’ll see ravers and party goers jumping around carefree with their essentials tied around their waist rather than weighing them down.

Photographer: Amelie Carpenter

A DAY IN THE MARKET Throughout London, there are a multitude of fantastic markets to explore and enjoy. Whether you are looking for a unique item of clothing, browsing original art pieces or fancy trying a new meal, a market is the ideal spot for an exciting day out. Camden was the first market I visited in London, and it is still my favourite today. As soon as you step out of Camden Town station, you are met with a sensory overload. You will see brightly coloured shops and stalls, hear loud upbeat music, and smell the aroma of delicious foods. Visitors of Camden market will experience an amalgamation of cultures, reflecting the city of London itself. Each seller brings a piece of their culture to the market, which is celebrated and appreciated by the visitors. Each stall has a huge variety of items to browse; there is never a dull moment when exploring Camden. Also, markets are absolutely ideal for shopping on a budget! Where else could you find quality unique pieces for affordable costs? If you see an item you like – perhaps a vintage jacket, an eccentric bag, or a bespoke pair of shoes – it’s nice to know that you will be the only

An article by Daisy Dickeson

person with that exact item. Koko Art (@kokoartlondon on Instagram) is a seller that provides customers with the amazing service of hand-painting stunning personalised designs onto trainers. Each design is unique, perfectly suiting each customer’s individuality. This is just one example of the countless talented sellers who bring their art to Camden market. Buying original items is also gratifying; often when you buy items in a market you are buying them directly from their creator. Seeing their reaction when you buy their products is a great feeling. I visited a stall called Camden Supernova (@camdensupernova on Instagram) which sells posters, postcards and more featuring amazing designs. I told the artist that I’d visited before, and had one of her posters on my wall at home, and she was so grateful, and told me how happy she was that I appreciated her work. Now I see the poster on my wall and remember the conversation, and think about the hard work that has gone into the design; much more than I would if I bought a different poster from an online chain brand. Supporting independent sellers is so important in all elements of retail; it enables skilled people to share their work with the world, and allows customers to buy exciting new items. For me, shopping in a market is more than a shopping trip; it’s an experience. Camden is not only my favourite market, but it’s probably my favourite place in London. I never fail to have a great time there, and always come home with a great find from the many fantastic sellers of the market.

unisex

Interchangeable Unisex Clothing Unisex clothes are garments that are designed without a specific gender in mind. Although unisex clothing is not entirely a new concept, fashion retail has seen a flourish of interest around the concept of genderless clothing. Haute couture brands were first to implement genderless clothing, with household high street stores such as Zara and H&M following suit, playing their part in the movement. There’s a mutual realisation across these brands that many consumers don’t want to be defined by the label on their clothes, or the section of the store in which they shop. Blazer: Topman: £45 XS-XL White T-Shirt: Weekday: £20 UK 4-18 Jeans: ASOS: £35 XS-XXL

Considering it was a market within fashion that wasn’t familiar to us 5 years 13

ago, the way that it’s taken off is extraordinary, with Selfridges giving itself a radical makeover a few years back, transforming as many as three floors of its Oxford Street emporium into gender-neutral shopping areas. The way that we view gender identity has shifted organically through history, both within and beyond the fashion industry. It was only in the mid-20th century that it became common for women to wear trousers as part of everyday leisurely attire, as they were traditionally seen as a masculine fit. In today’s society we are more accepting of gender fluidity. We are more open to people falling into a category other than male or female, or choosing not to label themselves at all, the same going for sexuality too. Clothing trends and patterns can be shaped as a result of mainstream values. There is a long history of gender lines being blurred in clothing to show freedom from sexual roles or to represent equality.

“Unisex clothes are becoming the new normal in high street fashion.”

Current affairs editor at leading LGBT website PinkNews, Nick Duffy states that unisex fashion is setting a new standard for the industry. “Unisex clothes are absolutely becoming the new normal in high street fashion. We’re seeing more and more major brands acknowledge that clothes do not have a gender – whether that’s launching specific unisex ranges, or removing gender-specific signage in-store and simply letting their products speak for themselves. This is really what fashion should be about, free from judgement and based on individual self-expression.”

It’s important to understand that unisex clothing doesn’t only appeal to those who are genderfluid or androgynous in style. A younger generation of designers are driving the non-binary model of fashion,

Top: Zara: £15.99 UK XS-L Trousers: H&M: £25.99 UK S-XXL

Jumper: Collusion: £12 XXS-XXL Trousers: Noak: £35 W28L30 - W38L32

simply because there is not just one category of people who want to wear their clothing so they need to adapt to their consumer. Alexandre Mattiussi, the designer behind Ami (formerly a menswear brand), recently started styling his bold tailoring and bright knits in women, reflecting the reality of how we dress now. For those of us who define ourselves as ‘male’ or ‘female’ and tend to follow the traits more traditionally associated with these genders, genderless clothing can still apply. The majority of these lines available are made up of versatile

UNISEX

Boiler Suit: ASOS Design: Â£40 W26-W38

staples such as sweatshirts, straight leg trousers and boxy t-shirts, all of which follow the direction that fashion is currently moving towards with looser cuts and oversized styles, that don’t need to be tailored to fit a specific gender, as they work as suitably for any. There are some people who campaign for more lines of genderless clothing, or for stores without the division of menswear and womenswear, which although valid, is not completely necessary. The fit of clothing is highly subjective and can be difficult to tackle, one man’s cropped is another man’s too short. If you like a piece of clothing and it fits in the way that you intended - buy it, gender doesn’t need to come into it. We should feel comfortable in what we wear and there are times whereby two styles of clothing - male or female - isn’t enough, and it doesn’t fully represent the world we inhabit. Unisex clothing bridges the gap somewhat and provokes an interesting conversation, making people more at ease in what they wear. Unisex clothing is a market in fashion that isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. The CFDA, the organiser of New York Fashion Week, added ‘unisex/non-binary’ as a new category in February of this year. Half of the designers recognised on this years LVMH Prize shortlist produce gender-neutral collections. The mainstream has persisted with men and women’s collections only for so long and this doesn’t fit in with today’s landscape. It’s unlikely that genderless clothing will ever act as an entire replacement for the traditional formula of male and female labels but the number of unisex options is always increasing, meaning a step towards inclusivity within an industry that is notorious for the opposite. This means that, whether or not as an individual you will be buying into this market, you’re welcoming choice for those who want to.

BLUEPRINT

MÚSICA

Barcelona definitely has a sound of its own and it comes from the long-established gypsy community in GrĂ cia, Barcelona. Cultural ties between Barcelona and Cuba have always been very close, and when gypsy musicians got hold of Afro-Cuban percussion and piano in the 1950s, they combined it with the flamenco guitar and other Spanish influences to create la rumba Catalana. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold to confirm that Catalan music is living in its best moment, because in reality it has always had great strength. However, it is true that the current generation is now in a great time period; expanding audiences concert by concert, bringing together different influences and 22 musical tastes.

Music and fashion have always gone hand in hand, they influence each other and are constantly reinventing themselves.

ARISTOCRATIC GOAT

MALE BEAUTY: SKINCARE EDITION

Perfect skin. Every hair in place. Waxed. Groomed eyebrows. The typical metrosexual man. These are some stereotypes that come to mind when we think of male skincare and well-being, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. Skincare is at the forefront of many people’s daily routine. Before, products were aimed predominately at women, but now the market has expanded. In fact, there has been a 300 per cent growth in men’s beauty and grooming products since 2015, which truly reflects their desire to be more caring towards their skin. For the average man, looking after their skin may not seem as important, but taking an extra five minutes in your day to cleanse, moisturise and use SPF can make all the difference. When it comes to skincare, men have traditionally kept it simple - a splash of water with hand soap mixed in or perhaps stealing your girlfriend’s favourite moisturiser – yes lads, we know it doesn’t just

“disappear”. However, many men are now in pursuit of achieving healthier, younger looking skin. Budget friendly skincare brands such as Nivea Men and L’Oréal Man means that looking after your skin doesn’t have to break the bank. They offer a wide range of products such as toners, serums, post-shave balms, all with male skin needs in mind. Getting to know your skin is the first step in creating your tailor-made skincare routine. Whether you’re oily, dry, acneprone or suffer from redness, there are products there to suit your needs. Ethnic minority men may also have their own needs when it comes to skincare. Some moisturisers and SPF’s can in fact bleach

BEAUTY IS SKIN DEEP

the skin or give darker skin tones a grey cast – which to be frank, doesn’t look great on anyone. In this instance there are brands which cater specifically for men of colour, taking these factors into consideration when making their products. Ceylon Skincare is a brand created by men of colour, Blake and Patrick. They found that men’s products had negative effects on their melanin rich skin, so they developed a brand that would help their skin be its best, without bleaching their faces. In addition to Ceylon, Lush Cosmetics also have a male dedicated page on their website for skincare products catered for men’s skin. They update their websites with blog posts with helpful tips on how to get the best out of your skincare routine. Articles such as “The Modern Man’s Guide to Grooming” and “Sun Safety for Men”. There are lots of tips whether you’re a skincare novice, or a skincare junkie.

If you’re a guy who has hesitated about getting into the world of skincare, know you’re not alone. That you can be a part of this growing sector in the world of men’s skincare.

The Changing Face of Modest Fashion The roots of modest fashion do not stem from only one branch. The early eighth century, dominated by the Islamic Empire to the fourteenth century where we see the Ottoman Turks – modest clothing has been worn and designed by women from a variety of different backgrounds. Modesty is a way of dressing that reflects personal, religious or spiritual beliefs. There are contrasting opinions surrounding modest dress, despite this, modest clothing has managed to adjust to fit the era in which it is in. Modest fashion is a multibillion-dollar industry, catering primarily to practicing Muslim women. The structures of modest fashion clothing are centuries old but new designers and the influence of social media has introduced a unique wave of modest designs and styling. The new modest consumer no longer requires a simple religious garment; instead it is driven 28

by young, cosmopolitan women who want both style and her faith to come together. Many Muslim women follow the same principles when it comes to their dress – influenced by their religion. They often wear ankle length, long sleeves, no cleavage or sheer fabrics. But what makes it exciting is how they interpret those guidelines and create something new with their own style. It’s their ability to adapt which makes the modest fashion industry so impressive; how they utilise trends on the runway to make it suitable for them. The Muslim consumer is diverse and has needs just like any other customer, a brands success is determined by their ability to cater to these women and make them feel involved in mainstream fashion. The modest fashion consumer mainly shops luxury, mainstream, as well as modest fashion brands who cater specifically to them. There are round 1.8 billion Muslims in the world, all of whom possess a lot of spending power. If this is the case, why do these women find it so hard to get clothing that suits their needs from bricks-and-mortar stores as well as the upcoming online retail space? It’s also there to recognise that it’s not just Muslim women who shop and wear modest clothing, other Orthodox religions have the same requirements. That’s without forgetting the many Western women who turn to modest clothing as a way of experimenting with their style and taking away from the idea that you need to dress sexy to look good.

Blue/White Denim Jacket: PrettyLittleThing: £35 UK 4-18 Snake Print Top: New Look: £20 UK 6-18

“What’s nice about this space is that you’ve got a loyal audience because they’ve committed to it for a higher reason. They’re not doing it to impress anyone, so there’s no passing fancy, there’s no fad involved in this. They’re first and foremost doing it because of their values and belief set, which are going to stay with them for life.” Alia Khan - Founder and Chairwoman of the Dubai-based Islamic Fashion Design Council

Brands Mango: modest friendly collection of tunics, kaftans and maxi-dresses Nike: high performance hijab Net-A-Porter: capsule collections designed for Ramadan by designers such as Oscar de la Renta and Jenny Packham. Also has â&#x20AC;&#x153;modestâ&#x20AC;? as a category in its clothing menu. 31

“I know some people will think modest fashion is regressive and telling a woman to cover themselves, but I actually feel like the women it appeals to want to wear stuff that’s fun and don’t have to worry about being a sex object for a man.”

- Batsheva Hay, Modest Fashion Designer

Blue/ White Trousers: PrettyLittleThing: £25 UK 4-18

brands but I usually enjoy buying my clothes from ASOS or Urban Outfitters. ASOS in particular have new modest styles and although it hasn’t got a wide selection, it does make dressing both modestly and stylish that little bit easier.

White Top: ASOS: £30 UK 4-22

We at BLUEPRINT wanted to get a better understanding of what it’s like to be someone who dresses modestly – regardless of whether it’s for religious or personal reasons. We wanted to ask one of our models who dresses this way questions about fashion, modest dress and how important it is to recognise this market in the industry.

What does dressing modestly mean to you? Fashion in general is a way for people to express themselves, visually. I feel like dressing modestly is another way to do this. I see many people being creative with modest fashion, for instance – layering their clothing and playing more with colour and texture within an outfit. Even though it is a part of my religion, to me dressing modestly enables me to think creatively with my outfits in order to express myself. 4.What does your headscarf symbolise? Wearing a headscarf is an aspect of my religion that is encouraged when being a part of the Muslim community. However, it

Do you find it hard to dress modestly using high street clothing? Yes, finding modest clothing in high street shops is a big struggle, there is not a wide range when it comes to the “modest” lines and most high streets shops don’t even have modest lines catered for us. I usually find myself seeing an item of clothing that I like thinking that will cover most of my skin but then I realise there are slits or something that will expose my skin, which obviously I cannot wear. This makes it a lot harder to dress modestly and trendy as most of the time it’s one or the other. What’s your favourite modest clothing brands? It’s hard to find modest clothing with most 33

is also another way to be more creative in a fashionable sense. For example, incorporating different styles and techniques to cover my hair to make my outfits even more interesting. To me my headscarf does not necessarily limit me, but instead is part of my identity and how I use fashion to express myself when wearing my headscarf. Is it becoming easier to find fashionable modest clothing? I do feel like modest clothing is becoming much more available to us, although I think that it still needs to be encouraged more through high street fashion. It needs to be normalised and accessible for people, regardless of why you dress modestly, everyone deserves to feel included. What’s your favourite fashion trends that you incorporate with your modest style? My favourite trend would have to be oversized/loose clothing. It is so easy to be modest when wearing oversized jumpers and t shirts with baggy trousers. I love this trend because not only does it allow me to be modest, but fashionable as well. It means I can feel comfortable within myself as well as feeling comfortable that I am staying true to 34

Camo Jacket: Primark: £15 UK 4-18

how I want to dress without compromise. The important factor when taking modest clothing into consideration is that you should be able to find clothing that suits your needs for every occasion. Whether you want to go swimming, to a wedding, out clubbing or a lazy Sunday in – the main focus should be on giving people the option and not making it impossible for them to find clothing to suit their needs. The reality is, everyone has their own idea of what modest fashion means to them. It’s about having fashion forward pieces that the wearer can resonate with, whilst still being true to the modest style they want to maintain. When looking at the potential growth in this market sector (focusing on the Muslim community) Muslim spending on fashion is predicted to reach £286 billion by 2021 so the time tap into this market is now. That’s without taking into consideration the women who also buy into the modest market who are not religious but instead do so for their own personal reasons.

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A BLUEPRINT Advertorial

A New Way to Shop Vintage Depop is allowing us to get thrifty and rework our wardrobes without overspending, all in the comfort of our own home.

There’s a little magic in thrift shopping and discovering fashion that has been pre-loved and manages to find a new home in our wardrobes. There’s the extra satisfaction in browsing through one-offs and then finding that one piece that feels just perfect for you, something that window shopping in your local high street just cannot offer. Online shopping has become our preferred way to shop, with its 24/7 availability and the fact we can feed our love for spending in our pyjamas on the sofa. The idea of thrifting may seem ideal but we don’t all live in arms reach from Brick Lane Vintage Market, and for some of us charity shop scavenging may seem like a mission. Depop offers a new way to shop, giving us a global marketplace of thrift shop fashion and independent shops, all at the click of a button.

Buying into the reselling market helps us do our bit by fuelling the reuse/recycle mantra drilled into us at the moment. We all want to contribute to the sustainable living movement but it’s easy to feel helpless when high street fashion is as accessible as it is, and designer ethical clothing isn’t (and doesn’t necessarily

A BLUEPRINT Advertorial

fit our style either). Through buying and selling, we are part of an inspiring community that extends the life of fashion, slowing down the ‘fast fashion’ that is detrimental to the planet, and our wallets. There are times we feel we aren’t able to meet our fashion aspirations, whether it’s because of styling confidence or that it is too costly. Depop helps us meet these aspirations, there is such a vast selection of fashion offered that we are able to experiment with different parts of our fashion personalities. Second hand designer items come two a penny, saving the hopeless charity shop rummaging and allowing us to buy items we thought we could only dream of. Some of your favourite influencers are likely to make use of this platform, meaning you can directly replicate some of their favourite looks you’ve seen them pull off.

The word nude is a term with a multitude of meanings. Skin tone, lack of clothing, being bare. What is apparent is how our perception of nude is changing. In recent news there has been a new line of plasters released for people with darker skin tones than those who are Caucasian. This small act of inclusivity makes you re-evaluate what we mean by the term “nude”. In the fashion industry the term “nude” is often used to vaguely as one person’s nude is different to another’s. Associating nude with pale skin, when marking clothing (such as a nude bra) is not inclusive of the wide variety of skin tones, who each have their own perception of what nude is.

Jumper: Collusion: £12 XXS-XXL Trousers: Noak: £35 W28L30 - W38L32

Silk Top: House of CB: £20 UK 4-18 Knitted Trousers: House of CB: £40 UK 2-16 Knitted Roll Neck: £15 UK 18-26 Pink Cargo Trousers: PrettyLittleThing: £30 UK 4-18 Brown Dress: PrettyLittleThing: £20 UK 4-20

White Roll Neck: ASOS Design £20 UK XS- XXL Windbreaker: Collusion: £40 UK XXS-XXL

THE NEW NUDE 44

BLUEPRINT

Rework Your Denim Jacket Buying less and reworking your wardrobe is at the forefront of styling advice right now. One of the ideal pieces to do this with is a denim jacket. Trustworthy and timeless. I’d bet with you right now there hasn’t been a time in your life where you haven’t owned a denim jacket. Its functionalities surpass any other type of jacket or coat and its versatility lends itself to the unpredictable British weather. The big push now is how you can change your denim jacket to be more personal to you and your style without going out and buying more.

The first denim jacket was made by Levi Strauss in 1905, it was in the form of a work shirt, intended to be worn with work trousers. The denim jacket has been the item of choice for the US military, survived two World Wars and has graced the back of many famous faces. In the 1970s, the Hippie Bohemian subculture set about by customising their clothing, rejecting the mass communism and dehumanisation in the workforce that was spreading through the US. They stitched, embellished, ripped and faded their clothes to make it a piece of their own – a one of a kind. When you fast forward to 2019, the same practices are still going on when it comes to garment customisation. The denim jacket is the ideal piece when it comes to making an item of clothing your own. Its durable material makes it easy to sew onto, it can be frayed, and dyed as well.

Yves Saint Laurent himself described the denim jacket as “the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant item of clothing ever invented.” The colour, the shape, embellishments – all of these things reflect the wearers personality and how they want to present themselves. The smallest of changes can really make your denim jacket feel your own. You may want to add rips, or patches of another material. You could embellish with sequins or iron-on-patches to give a real nineties nostalgic feel. Chains stuck on with a hot glue gun or just completely cutting off the arms to give it that real DIY feel. There are endless ways to help your denim jacket become an extension of your personality. 48

sunglasses

S THROW O M E SHADE

River Island Â£20

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