GO ESCAPE MID-ATLANTIC 2020

MID-ATLANTIC 2020

DELAWARE • MARYLAND • PENNSYLVANIA • VIRGINIA • WEST VIRGINIA & MORE

Rediscover SAND & SURF Best beaches & boardwalks

Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley

HEALTHY PURSUITS Reset with a hike or wellness retreat

RICH HISTORY Visit vestiges of our past

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

CONTENTS

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MID-ATLANTIC

12 Hit the reset button with a restorative retreat Bellmoor Inn and Spa, Rehoboth Beach, Del. BELLMOOR INN AND SPA

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

CONTENTS This is a product of

THE REGION

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FIGHTING SPIRIT Savor bourbon, rye and history on the Whiskey Rebellion Trail

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes jbstokes@usatoday.com SAGAMORE SPIRIT DISTILLERY

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DELAWARE Choose where to plant your beach umbrella

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com

MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington mjwashington@usatoday.com

Federal Donuts, Philadelphia

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WASHINGTON, D.C. Vote for a 19th Amendment road trip

FEDERAL DONUTS

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UP FRONT

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MARYLAND Annapolis reveals its story one block at a time

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

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NEW JERSEY

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Trade sunscreen for snow goggles and ski indoors

Tips for staying healthy when you venture out

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PENNSYLVANIA

FIND A FLAT

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See the city beyond the Liberty Bell

INSURING YOUR INVESTMENT Travel policies can offer peace of mind

Stroll the boardwalks of the Jersey Shore

SONDER

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WELL TRAVELED

ISSUE EDITOR Harry Lister ISSUE DESIGNER Lisa M. Zilka EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Tracy Scott Forson Deirdre van Dyk Debbie Williams DESIGNERS Hayleigh Corkey David Hyde Debra Moore Gina Toole Saunders CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Diane Bair, Ellen Chang, Sara M. Moniuszko, Leila Najafi, Wendy O’Dea, David Oliver, Kae Lani Palmisano, Ken Perrotte, Sarah Sekula, Sandy Smith, Fiona Soltes, Adam Stone, David Volk, Pamela Wright, David M. Zimmer

Philadelphia is a city for the epicurious

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Apartment hotels make you feel at home on the road

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VIRGINIA

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The splendor of Shenandoah National Park

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WEST VIRGINIA

FEATURES

18 ON THE COVER Sunset over Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

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HONORING HISTORY Celebrating the 75th anniversary of the end of World War II

ILLUMINATING AN ICON New exhibit highlights Rosa Parks

VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914

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The allure of Eastern Shore beaches

Hike through history in Harpers Ferry

LIFTING SPIRITS Fireworks over the nation’s capital

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Vanessa Salvo | (703) 854-6499 vsalvo@usatoday.com

FINANCE Billing Coordinator Julie Marco ISSN#0734-7456 A USA TODAY Network publication, Gannett Co. Inc USA TODAY, its logo and associated graphics are the trademarks of Gannett Co. Inc. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, USA TODAY, a division of Gannett Co. Inc. Editorial and publication headquarters are at 7950 Jones Branch Dr., McLean, VA 22108, and at (703) 854-3400.

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Editor Harry Lister, front, and pilot Jim Jeans view the Virginia Piedmont from Jeans’ 1942 Boeing Stearman PT-17.

JIM JEANS

THE OUTBREAK OF AND response to COVID-19 has affected our lives, our livelihoods and the economy at the local, national and global levels. And it has had a profound effect on the travel industry.

As we grapple with the unprecedented scope of this pandemic, many events, festivals and celebrations have been suspended or canceled. However, across the country, businesses that provide lodging, food and transportation are starting to reopen with varied stipulations and baseline measures that aim to reduce the risk of spreading the coronavirus.

The USA TODAY Network is committed to providing timely, engaging and accurate information in our coverage, but given the evolving nature of this health crisis, we realize that there will undoubtedly be changes to the accessibility of many of the locations, venues and services mentioned throughout this publication. Please check directly with businesses for the latest updates.

We also know that the travel and tourism industry is resilient. It has rebounded from natural disasters, economic recessions and other crises before, and while this pandemic is uncharted territory, it is our hope that national and international exploration will resume soon. In the meantime, we will continue to look beyond today and provide you with the amazing sights, sounds, tastes and experiences that await when we can all Go Escape again.

Harry Lister Issue Editor

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UP FRONT | TRAVEL

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Insuring Your Investment Policies can offer peace of mind when booking a trip

By Amy Sinatra Ayres

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HETHER YOU’RE CANCELING OR post-

poning a trip due to the outbreak of COVID-19, or you’re dreaming of scheduling a new vacation, you might be researching the ins and outs of travel insurance.

If you want to delay plans you made before the outbreak and you purchased insurance, the first step is to review your policy, says Peter Evans, executive vice president of InsureMyTrip.com. For standard policies, fear of traveling is not a benefit, but some include coverage if

the U.S. State Department or Centers for Disease Control and Prevention issue travel warnings for the area you were planning to visit. And if you have purchased an upgraded “cancel for any reason” policy, it lets you do just that.

Evans and Kasara Barto, public relations manager for travel insurance comparison site SquareMouth.com, also recommend going directly to the travel supplier — such as the airline, cruise line, hotel or tour operator — to see what your options are. Many are waiving change or cancellation fees, and if you’d rather reschedule, you may be able to get a voucher or bump the trip to the next calendar year.

“We’re seeing tremendous flexibility right now because (travel suppliers are) all in this, and they’re trying to make it work for everyone,” Evans says.

Some standard travel insurance policies include cancellation benefits for financial default, such as if your travel supplier goes out of business; employment layoff benefits in case you lose your own job; or “cancel for work reasons,” which kicks in if your time off from work is revoked due to impact from the virus.

A policy with the “cancel for any reason” upgrade offers the most comprehensive coverage. Those policies are time sensitive — they’re generally only available for purchase within the first two to

three weeks after booking the trip — and they are more expensive, explains Barto.

“It does cost about 40 percent more than a standard travel insurance policy, and it reimburses 75 percent of the trip costs.

However, it really does allow a traveler to cancel for any reason,” she says.

Rule of thumb when planning a trip: do your research and ensure you’re educated on how the insurance policies work. “We are hearing from people that are still planning future trips, and the best advice is to just read through your policy and make sure that what you’re concerned about can be covered by the policy that you’re purchasing,” Barto says. “It’s really a personal decision.”

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UP FRONT | ADVICE

Well Traveled Tips for staying healthy while venturing out

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UP FRONT | ADVICE

By Amy Sinatra Ayres

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HE DRAMATIC SPREAD OF the

coronavirus has many travelers wondering what to do about trips they’ve already booked, what to consider if they’re planning a new trip and how to stay healthy while getting there.

Heading into the summer months, more states are allowing businesses to reopen with precautions. “Presently, travel in the U.S. appears to be safe, but we need to be smart about our actions,” says Dr. Harry Oken, a practicing internist and clinical professor of medicine at the University of Maryland School of Medicine. “I suspect more people will keep social distancing in mind as they make summer travel plans.

I also suspect people will bring with them their own travel kits that include cleaning supplies,” Oken adds.

“If you’re traveling, everyone should wear a face mask and practice decontamination of the mask. An easy way to decontaminate a face mask is to spray it with hydrogen peroxide.”

He recommends travelers “minimize your touches in common areas,” such as airports, train stations or taxis and ride-sharing services. If you’re getting on an airplane, bus or train, Oken says to use an antibacterial wipe to disinfect your seat, the table attached to it, the armrests and headrests — then wash your hands.

“It is still appropriate not to shake hands; use an elbow bump instead. Go the other way when you see people coughing.

Try to wash your hands with soap and water often. If it is not available, use an alcohol-based hand gel,” he says.

Making healthy decisions about what you’re eating is also important when you travel, Oken says. He advises selecting “cooked meat instead of uncooked, unless you feel 100 percent confident in the food preparation.” In addition, “Stay away from street vendors.

If you do partake, have cooked

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends following any state and local restrictions if you travel, and quarantining yourself if you come into contact with someone who has the virus. food. Ask for drinks without ice.”

People who are at a higher risk of severe infection may want to reconsider their travel plans, says Oken. “Advanced age can be a factor, particularly if associated with comorbidities (multiple chronic diseases).”

Individuals with underlying immune deficiencies could be at risk, as well as anyone with chronic conditions such as diabetes, lung disease, heart disease and those undergoing chemotherapy or radiation, he says.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says travelers should follow any state and local restrictions and

warns that you may be asked to self-quarantine at home if you come in close contact with someone who has the virus.

What if you get sick while you’re traveling? “If you feel like you have a routine cold, follow your routine measures for dealing with the cold. Be sure to cover your mouth when you’re coughing and sneezing and minimize your contact with other people,” Oken says.

If you’re sick, be sure to quarantine yourself, he says.

“Typically, I suggest my patients practice ‘watchful waiting’ unless their symptoms worsen over seven to 10 days or are associated with a fever. Be sure you’re getting ample sleep.

Sleep is extremely important as it refreshes the immune system. The length of sleep is variable per person, but typically the sweet spot is between six to eight hours.”

Oken, who’s also a medical advisory board member of Persona Nutrition, which provides personalized vitamin subscription services, also emphasizes the importance of good nutrition in general, but specifically for people who aren’t getting at least five servings of fresh fruits and vegetables daily. He advises checking with your doctor before starting any supplement regimen to support overall health and wellness.

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

UP FRONT | LODGING

Find a Flat Apartment hotels will make you feel at home on the road

By Leila Najafi

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IRST THERE WERE VRBO and Airbnb;

now apart-hotels (also called hometels) are getting in on the action. In any case, travelers no longer have to choose solely between a hotel room and a stranger’s house when seeking accomodations on the road.

This hybrid concept — which suggests more apartment than hotel — is designed for travelers

who want the warmth of a home with the consistency of a hotel. Apart-hotels are gaining a foothold in the hospitality world with a concept that enables travelers to immerse themselves in the local culture and still feel like they’re at home when they put their heads down at night.

Here are two apart-hotel options that USA TODAY’s 10Best believes will make you feel right at home during your next visit to Philadelphia or Washington, D.C.:

Sonder’s The Heid in Philadelphia PHOTOS PROVIDED BY SONDER

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UP FRONT | LODGING SONDER What started with a college sophomore trying to make side money by temporarily leasing out his apartment has turned into a Silicon Valley startup that has caught the eye of investors seeking to reinvent hospitality. The mission is to create inviting spaces in less touristy neighborhoods while offering the amenities and services of a hotel.

Sonder has a footprint in 36 cities worldwide with carefully curated rooms that draw inspiration from the local

neighborhoods. Sonder guests have access to 24/7 support via a mobile app for cleaning requests, concierge help or general assistance with a unit.

The company has units in nine Philadelphia properties, ranging from an average of $74 per night for a studio in the Callowhill neighborhood to $1,600 for a one-bedroom in Old City. There are two locations in Washington and another just across the Potomac River in Alexandria, Va. ▶ sonder.com

Dupont Circle Embassy Inn

Sonder’s Lamont in Washington, D.C.

Communal area at Dupont Circle Embassy Inn

FOUND HOTELS

Sonder’s Vine in Philadelphia

FOUND Hotels is aimed at modern travelers who put a premium on shared experiences and meeting new people, offering both private and shared accommodations (i.e., bunk beds), a communal kitchen and social activities at each of its locations. Its goal is to redefine luxury lodging by replacing what it deems the wasteful, outdated model of traditional hotels.

FOUND properties are located in vibrant urban neighborhoods, including the Dupont Circle Embassy Inn in Washington. A bed in a mixed dorm rents for $38.70 per night; a private room with two queen beds averages $108 nightly. ▶ foundhotels.com

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

Shared room at Dupont Circle Embassy Inn PHOTOS PROVIDED BY FOUND HOTELS

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

Zen in the Time of Coronavirus A restorative retreat could be an ideal way to hit the reset button

By Sarah Sekula

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HETHER YOU NEED TO block out the noise or break out of a rut, you really can’t go

wrong by adding a wellness getaway to your calendar. Even the mere act of planning can spark joy.

Mention wellness travel to 10 people “and six of those people will probably be thinking spa,” says Anne Dimon, president and CEO of the Wellness Tourism Association. “While the sector has, in the minds of many, been long associated with spas, we tend to be moving away from that automatic response. While a massage or other treatments can certainly enhance any form of wellness travel, a spa treatment is not mandatory.

Today, the wellness travel big picture is more about food, fitness activities and nature.”

Wellness getaways “are quite necessary for long-term physical and psychological resilience and health,” says Dr. Hans Watson, a Great Falls, Mont.-based neuropsychiatrist and psychotherapist and the founder of mental health practice University Elite. “An appropriate wellness getaway not only provides the psychological recharge we need, but it also gives time for the adrenal glands and neurons to recover and repair themselves.”

Think you might need to restore before you can reset? We’ve rounded up some regional wellnessfocused getaways that can help:

NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT Farmington, Pa. Situated on 2,000 acres in Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands, Nemacolin Woodlands Resort is ideal for wellness-seekers thanks to the expansive Woodlands Spa and the Holistic Healing Center.

Sign up for spiritual workshops, hydrafacials and lessons at the equestrian center. Or try healing therapies at the holistic center that involve virtual reality, energy-balancing crystals and sacred rituals.

Be sure to leave time to visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s legendary Fallingwater residence, about 14 miles from the resort. It was named to the UNESCO World Heritage list and also houses an eclectic art collection. ▶ nemacolin.com

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Nemacolin Woodlands Resort PHOTOS PROVIDED BY NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT

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SOJO SPA CLUB Edgewater, N.J. Have you ever soaked in a clay sauna? Strolled along a foot-massage path? Or tried a Japanese volcanic sand bath? SoJo Spa Club prides itself on offering these unique wellness treatments from around the world.

Sand bathing gives guests the chance to lounge in mineral-rich volcanic sand, which is said to have detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties. And red clay is known for its medicinal and cosmetic benefits.

Spend some time unwinding in the hotel’s relaxation lounge on floor mats, beanbags or recliners.

And don’t leave without a sauna in a room where the walls are made of salt bricks from the Himalayas that are said to detoxify the body by discharging waste found in the capillary vessels. There’s also a bedrock bathing therapy room where you lie on a heated black mineral slab that emits far-infrared rays and negative ions, believed to speed up the release of toxins. ▶ sojospaclub.com

ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE Lansing, W.Va. “A wellness retreat should be something that recharges your batteries,” Watson says. “This usually means that the activities or destinations involve something you already enjoy.”

While it should be a getaway that reduces your overall adrenaline, he says, brief spurts of it are perfectly fine. A soft-adventure retreat like Adventures on the Gorge should do the trick. The resort, located on the rim of the New River Gorge in southern West Virginia, has a menu of recreation that includes kayaking, rock climbing, whitewater rafting, hiking and fishing.

After your adventure, you can soak in the hot tub or relax by the campfire. ▶ adventuresonthegorge.com

BELLMOOR INN AND SPA Rehoboth Beach, Del. “For some personalities, wellness activities that involve some adventure and risk-taking is what suits them best,” says Dr. Judy Ho, clinical and forensic neuropsychologist and host of the SuperCharged Life podcast. “For others, they need to decompress and be on their own in quiet space; for others, wellness actually means more social activities where they are enjoying the company of others without time pressure. There is no one-size-fits-all — it’s more about finding what works for you.”

If a quiet escape is what you’re after, The Bellmoor Inn and Spa is a solid choice. Known for its full-service spa offerings, the R&R choices are overwhelming.

Choose from hydrotherapy, massage treatments, body scrubs and facials that incorporate diamond powder, peptide complex and snow algae to make your skin glow. To keep the Zen mode going, sign up for a yoga session, sound healing, meditation or tai chi. Afterward, cozy up with a novel in the library or take a two-block stroll to the beach. ▶ thebellmoor.com

SOJO SPA CLUB; ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE (2); BELLMOOR INN AND SPA

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THE IVY HOTEL Baltimore “Self-care practices have been shown to combat burnout symptoms and help alleviate symptoms of depression and anxiety,” says Ho. “In addition, it is a great preventative strategy for both chronic physical and mental illness.”

The Ivy Hotel, a renovated mansion in a historic Baltimore neighborhood, certainly takes self-care seriously. Guests start every day with a made-to-order breakfast featuring freshly squeezed natural juices.

Afternoon tea is delivered wherever you might be lounging throughout the hotel. And you can take it easy by piecing together wooden puzzles by the fireplace or playing billiards.

When you’re ready to venture out, SoBotanical, a custom aromatherapy bar stocked with essential oils and body products curated by a certified aromatherapist, is a 10-minute walk from the hotel. PLANTBAR is nearby, too, with plant-based menu items, raw meal plans, juice cleanses and smoothies. Hotel guests can also book an appointment with Thrive Solutions, a mobile IV center that provides hydration infusions to replenish fluids and electrolytes. ▶ theivybaltimore.com

EATON WORKSHOP Washington, D.C. Eaton DC combines new-age practices and experiential learning traditions to help guests gain a transformative holistic mind and body connection. Immerse yourself in an assortment of yoga classes and meditation sessions and attend wellness programs throughout your stay.

“In general, people believe wellness is hard to achieve or it takes a lot of effort to do, but research shows that even 30 minutes of self-care a day is amazing for physical and mental benefits,” says Ho. “I suggest that people lean in to their personality preferences for wellness activities. Not everyone is going to love meditation or yoga, but find what works for you.” ▶ eatonworkshop.com/hotel/dc

THE IVY HOTEL (3); EATON DC

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HONORING HISTORY Explore the courage and sacrifice of the ‘Greatest Generation’

By Harry Lister HIS YEAR MARKS THE 75th anniversary of the end of World War II, and Washington, D.C., and its nearby Virginia suburbs host a number of memorials, monuments, museums and exhibits dedicated to the history of one of the most pivotal events of the 20th century.

Spend a weekend learning about the millions of men and women who answered history’s call, and in the process became the “Greatest Generation.”

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1. MARINE CORPS MEMORIAL

3. AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM

Often referred to as the Iwo Jima memorial, the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial in Arlington, Va., is dedicated to all Marines who have given their lives in service of the country. The 32-foot bronze figures depict the capture of Mount Suribachi on the island of Iwo Jima in February 1945. nps.gov/gwmp

The collection of World War II military aircraft on display at the National Air and Space Museum’s Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Va., includes the Enola Gay, the B-29 Superfortress that dropped the first atomic bomb on Hiroshima, Japan, in August 1945. airandspace.si.edu

2. JAPANESE AMERICAN MEMORIAL

4. ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY

At the northeastern end of the National Mall in Washington, D.C., between the U.S. Capitol and Union Station, is the National Japanese American Memorial to Patriotism During World War II. It commemorates the experiences of the more than 120,000 Japanese Americans interned during the war. njamemorial.org

Approximately 400,000 military veterans and dependents are buried at Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia — including President John F. Kennedy, who earned a Navy Marine Corps Medal and a Purple Heart for heroism while helming a patrol torpedo boat in the Pacific during World War II. www.arlingtoncemetery.mil

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE(2); ELIZABETH FRASER; ERIC LONG/SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION

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5. WWII MEMORIAL

8. FDR MEMORIAL

Located on the National Mall, the World War II Memorial honors the 16 million members of the U.S. Armed Forces who fought in Europe, North Africa and the Pacific, especially the 405,399 killed during the war. nps.gov/wwii

A short walk from the World War II Memorial, the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial sits on the Tidal Basin between the Martin Luther King Jr. and Thomas Jefferson memorials. FDR’s four terms in office are chronicled through bronze artwork and quotes carved in stone. nps.gov/frde

6. HOLOCAUST MUSEUM One block south of the National Mall and east of the Tidal Basin, the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum’s mission is to serve as a living memorial to the 6 million European Jews killed during World War II and to inspire people to confront hatred, prevent genocide and promote human dignity. ushmm.org

7. EISENHOWER HISTORIC SITE About 90 miles north of Washington in Gettysburg, Pa., the Eisenhower National Historic Site preserves the home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower, Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces in Europe during World War II. nps.gov/eise

9. NATIONAL D-DAY MEMORIAL If your travels take you through southwest Virginia, make a point to visit the National D-Day Memorial in Bedford. Why was this small town chosen for a monument to one of the most pivotal battles of World War II? It’s because it lost 19 native sons on Omaha Beach that day and a total of 23 in the Normandy campaign — proportionally the most of any U.S. community. dday.org

DAN ARANDT; USHMM PHOTO ARCHIVES; NATIONAL PARK SERVICE(2); MARK WILSON/GETTY IMAGES

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

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Excite your travel bug.

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

Rosa Parks exhibit shines light on civil rights legend

By David Oliver

ou may think you know Rosa Parks, but a new exhibit aims to further educate visitors about the activist and civil rights icon.

Rosa Parks: In Her Own Words, an exhibition at the Library of Congress

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in Washington, D.C., reveals Parks was more than the acts of heroism that made her famous. When Parks refused to give up her seat to a white man on a Montgomery, Ala., city bus in 1955, she had already been a champion for equality and justice for

decades. Her arrest only provided her with a larger platform to effect change.

“We wanted to get beyond the legend,” says Carla Hayden, the librarian of Congress. “Beyond the tired woman on the bus.”

SHAWN MILLER/LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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Family records

“We wanted to get beyond the legend.

Beyond the tired woman on the bus.”

— CARLA HAYDEN, librarian of Congress Handwritten note

Whether you’re looking around or closing your eyes and listening, the pictures, videos, quotes and handwritten letters will immerse you in everything Parks, from her early activism to her support of Jesse Jackson’s presidential campaigns.

“It is better to teach or live equality and love ... than to have hatred and prejudice,” reads one of Parks’ quotes.

The Rosa Parks collection includes 140 years of family history and approximately 10,000 items, according to curator Adrienne Cannon. Scheduled to run through September, the exhibition includes everything from Parks’ personal reflections on her arrest to letters, family photographs and a handmade blue dress from her wardrobe. You can even see a sketch of what the bus looked like — and

where Parks sat — on that historic day in Montgomery.

The handwritten letters stand out as a compelling feature. Papers showing her impeccable cursive penmanship weave throughout the exhibit, housed in traditional museum glass cases, but also enlarged as posters.

David Mandel, the director of the Center for Exhibits and Interpretation at the Library of Congress, points out how Parks would write things on the front and back of documents, including an envelope and even a pharmacy bag. And that’s part of why they chose to highlight them in the exhibit: “They’re almost art in a way,” Mandel says. “The artistic quality bled over into this humanizing quality that seemed quite poignant.”

Parks’ written words are the most striking feature of the exhibit for Cannon.

“To a large degree, she’s going to bare her soul, and she does that in pencil because it’s tentative,” Cannon says of Parks’ reflections on her arrest. “Because she’s revealing her vulnerability, and she’s not sure what she’s going to say.” Such reflections include her brief incarceration and writing about the larger impact of what living under Jim Crow segregation does to the psyche.

“It simultaneously crystallizes what we know about her, her iconic status as the mother of the modern civil rights movement, the arrest that led to the Montgomery bus boycott … (and it also) presents her as a woman,” Cannon says.

As part of a new pilot program at

the Library of Congress, reference librarians will explain how visitors can see and use the materials. Visitors will also be able to go online and download documents for research projects and publications.

Rosa Parks: In Her Own Words is also the title of a book, written

by Susan Reyburn, that serves as a companion to the exhibition.

What would Parks think of the exhibit? Fred Gray Sr., her lawyer at the time, thinks Parks would’ve been proud of the progress in today’s world, but that she would strive for more. “I think she would think that all of these honors are good and we’ve made tremendous progress.

But I think she would also say that there is still too much racism in this country,” he says. “I think she would tell us she did what she could.”

SHAWN MILLER/LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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THE REGION 28

DELAWARE

Rehoboth, Dewey or Bethany?

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WASHINGTON, D.C.

Elect to celebrate 100 years of women’s voting

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MARYLAND

Stroll in historic Annapolis

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NEW JERSEY

Boardwalks and snowboarding

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PENNSYLVANIA

Fine food, offbeat sights in Philadelphia

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VIRGINIA

Shoreline to mountaintops

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WEST VIRGINIA

Hike through history at Harpers Ferry

TRAIL OF REBELLION Spirits and history mingle on the Whiskey Rebellion Trail.

Sagamore Spirit Distillery in Baltimore is a great place to begin or end your journey.

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SAGAMORE SPIRIT DISTILLERY

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

MID-ATLANTIC | WHISKEY REBELLION TRAIL

Fighting Spirit Sample bourbon, rye and history on the Whiskey Rebellion Trail

By Kae Lani Palmisano

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N THE LATE 18TH century, spirit-makers throughout Pennsylvania and Maryland

protested a whiskey tax that put their distilleries at risk and threatened their way of life. What is now known as the Whiskey Rebellion raged for several years, but it ultimately resulted in a region that celebrates the spirit.

The Whiskey Rebellion Trail (whiskeyrebelliontrail.com) stretches from Pittsburgh to Washington, D.C. Here are a handful of the best distilleries to visit along the way, according to USA TODAY’s 10Best:

TENTH WARD DISTILLING COMPANY Frederick, Md. To be as sustainable as possible, this woman-owned distillery focuses on sourcing from farms just outside of town. These raw ingredients give its whiskeys, seasonal liqueurs and other distilled spirits a distinctly local flavor. Tenth Ward Distilling is also home to the first Marylandmade absinthe. ▶ tenthward distilling.com

MINGO CREEK CRAFT DISTILLERS

MINGO CREEK CRAFT DISTILLERS Washington, Pa. Mingo Creek Craft Distillers gets its name from a group formed in 1794 to protest the federal tax on distilled spirits. The Mingo Creek association, as the farmers called themselves, showed their unity by planting liberty poles throughout the county as symbols of dissent.

As an homage to the history of the Whiskey Rebellion and the role of local distillers, Mingo Creek has released Liberty Pole Spirits, a line of traditional offerings ranging from a light corn whiskey to a robust bourbon whiskey. ▶ libertypolespirits.com

1675 SPIRITS Eddington, Pa. As its name suggests, 1675 Spirits is focused on preserving the local area’s history. Its whiskeys are distilled using grains from the nearby Castle Valley Mill, which has been in operation since 1730. ▶1675spirits.com

FREDERICK LIFESTYLE

ONE EIGHT DISTILLING Washington, D.C. In addition to its vodka and gin, this D.C.-based distillery produces small batches of experimental whiskeys, as well as classic bourbons and ryes. One Eight says its District Made straight rye whiskey is the first rye whiskey distilled and bottled in the nation’s capital since Prohibition. ▶ oneeightdistilling.com

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MID-ATLANTIC | WHISKEY REBELLION TRAIL

THISTLE FINCH DISTILLERY Lancaster, Pa. Another small-batch distillery embracing the rye renaissance, Thistle Finch focuses on producing high-quality rye whiskey in the historic Pennsylvania tradition. Get an authentic taste of early American-style rye by sampling their un-aged Small Batch White Rye Whiskey. ▶ thistlefinch.com

SAGAMORE SPIRIT DISTILLERY Baltimore A short drive from Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, Sagamore Spirit is reviving the tradition of Maryland-style rye. Its Rye Port Finish won a Double Gold at the 2019 San Francisco World Spirit Competition and was also awarded the title of World’s Best Rye Whiskey. ▶ sagamore spirit.com SAGAMORE SPIRIT DISTILLERY

WIGLE WHISKEY DISTILLERY

WIGLE WHISKEY Pittsburgh It’s easy to see why Wigle Whiskey was a James Beard semifinalist in 2018 and a multiple American Craft Spirits Association (ACSA)-award winner. This family-owned-and-operated distillery is focused on developing a community of whiskey fans.

Wigle appeals to folks who not only understand the history of whiskey in Pittsburgh, but also nurture an appreciation for the terroir of Western Pennsylvania’s Monongahela Valley, which is said to have produced the best rye whiskey in early America.

Must-tries are their ACSA Gold Medal award-winning ryes. ▶ wiglewhiskey.com

REPUBLIC RESTORATIVES DISTILLERY Washington, D.C. Don’t just drink the whiskey — learn about it! Republic Restoratives is a woman-owned distillery with an open warehouse concept that’s not only inviting, but engaging to whiskey lovers yearning to understand more about the distilling process. ▶ republicrestoratives.com

DAD’S HAT PENNSYLVANIA RYE WHISKEY Bristol, Pa. Located along the banks of the Delaware River between Philadelphia and Trenton, N.J., Dad’s Hat distills award-winning spirits. Touring Dad’s Hat is like taking a trip through the 200-plus years of tradition that is distilled into every bottle of its whiskey. ▶ dadshatrye.com

STOLL AND WOLFE DISTILLERY

STOLL AND WOLFE DISTILLERY Lititz, Pa. Stoll and Wolfe is one of the companies working to revive the art of whiskey making in Pennsylvania. Try the Bourbon and Rye Blend, which earned an Excellent, Highly Recommended rating and scored 93/100 in the 2019 Ultimate Spirits Challenge, and the Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey, which was rated a 95/100 in 2018. ▶ stollandwolfe.com

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

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DELAWARE | BEACHES

DELAWARE | BEACHES DEWEY BEACH Dewey Beach sits on a narrow strip of land between Rehoboth Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. The town is only 1 mile long and two blocks wide, but on summer weekends its population swells from 300 year-round residents to more than 30,000 visitors.

Despite its size, Dewey Beach isn’t short on activities. The town hosts music festivals, sidewalk sales for shoppers and free movies on Monday evenings during the summer.

There’s also a tradition of bonfires on the beach at Dagsworthy Avenue each Wednesday after sunset.

Visitors who want to spend more time checking out local watering holes and live music should head to Dewey, Director says.

“It is a pretty small area, but there are 21 bars on a 1-mile stretch,” he says. “Some of the bars are on the beach. Dewey has tons of beach food, is really easy to walk around and is super fun. It is definitely a party town.”

Dewey is also a good spot to try out a variety of water activities, including surfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, jet skiing, kiteboarding or windsurfing. If you prefer something more quiet, you can rent a pontoon or sail boat or go surf fishing or crabbing.

Surfing at Dewey Beach

BETHANY BEACH

Rehoboth Beach boardwalk PHOTOS PROVIDED BY VISITDELAWARE.COM

Triple Play Which Delaware beach town is right for you?

By Ellen Chang

S

ANDY BEACHES SERVE AS welcome respites for millions of vacationers

every summer — perhaps even more so than usual this year.

Rehoboth, Dewey and Bethany beaches are within 13 miles of each other along the Delaware coast, but each town has its own vibe. Here are some insights to help you decide where to plant your beach umbrella:

CITY OF REHOBOTH BEACH Rehoboth Beach is a 1-square-mile community and the largest beach resort in Delaware.

Breezes off the Atlantic Ocean encourage visitors to stroll the city’s mile-long boardwalk, shop and grab lunch or ice cream. The boardwalk was originally built in 1873; six years later the Henlopen Hotel opened in the same location it occupies today.

Rehoboth is a very walkable town, says Dan Director, who operates a New York consulting firm but chose to ride out the coronavirus outbreak in the beachside town where he grew up. Rehoboth Avenue, its bustling main street, runs perpendicular to the boardwalk in this

“family-friendly town,” he says. “The boardwalk is great for kids; there are places to drink and listen to live music; the surf is pretty subdued. There is definitely something for everyone in town.”

Rehoboth Beach’s shops and neighborhoods are easy to navigate on foot or by bicycle. Attractions such as Jungle Jim’s water park and Funland can provide entertainment for children and teens.

Jungle Jim’s has waterslides and a lazy river and also features mini golf, batting cages and bumper boats. Funland has been operated by the same family since 1962 and offers an arcade, carousel and the Superflip360 and Freefall roller coasters.

Bethany Beach boardwalk

Bethany Beach also boasts a wide, boardwalk-backed beach and is flanked on the north by Delaware Seashore State Park, a thin barrier island between the Rehoboth and Indian River bays and the Atlantic Ocean.

The town is on the small side, but has a library, nature center, farmers market, gardens and parks. The nature center has trails and is geared toward children, educating them about native plants, birds, inland bays and wetlands.

Bethany Beach operates a trolley service through the middle of September; for $.25, riders can jump off or flag down the trolley anywhere along its route.

The town shows movies on the beach at dusk on Monday nights through the end of August.

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

WASHINGTON, D.C. | WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE

Vote for this Road Trip Celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment

By Wendy O’Dea

I

T’S A CONTENTIOUS TIME in the world of politics.

But history has proven that even some of the most challenging periods in our nation’s past have given voice and hope to the marginalized.

Numerous museums and institutions in Washington, D.C., continue to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 19th Amendment, which gave women the right to vote. The amendment was passed on June 4, 1919, and ratified on Aug. 18, 1920, so this election year is an ideal time to visit sites that celebrate the suffragists who advanced the freedoms of women.

Here are some of the most notable spots, according to USA TODAY’s 10Best:

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS One of the most architecturally stunning buildings on Capitol Hill, the Library of Congress has curated the exhibit Shall Not Be Denied; Women Fight for the Vote, which is scheduled to run through September.

Handwritten letters, speeches and photographs of American suffragists who persisted for more than 70 years to win voting rights for women are on display, along with records from the National American Woman Suffrage Association and National Woman’s Party.

The exhibition explores women’s struggles for equality, tracing the movement from before the first women’s rights convention at Seneca Falls, N.Y., in 1848, through the divergent political strategies and internal divisions the suffragists overcame. ▶ loc.gov/exhibitions/ women-fight-for-thevote

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

DAR

DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION MUSEUM Located five blocks from the White House, this museum features the exhibit Ordinary Equality: DAR Members and the Road to Women’s Suffrage, 1890-1920, highlighting how Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) members took advantage of increased opportunities for women to participate in social reform activities.

It was at DAR headquarters that Helen Keller was going to address suffragists after their 1913 parade down Pennsylvania Avenue — until she became unnerved when the participants were attacked en route by groups of men. ▶ dar.org

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WASHINGTON, D.C. | WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE

BELMONT-PAUL WOMEN’S EQUALITY NATIONAL MONUMENT Located near the U.S. Capitol and U.S. Supreme Court building, this 220-year-old house is at the heart of the women’s rights movement. Home to the National Woman’s Party since 1929, this was the epicenter for Alice Paul and other leaders who strategized and advocated for equal rights. It was here that they expanded the equal rights movement from a state-by-state approach to a national effort focused on a constitutional amendment.

In 2016, President Barack Obama designated it a national monument. ▶ nps.gov/bepa

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

NATIONAL ARCHIVES Rightfully Hers: American Women and the Vote examines the relentless struggle of diverse activists to secure voting rights for all American women. The 3,000-square-foot exhibit displays more than 90 photographs, records and other artifacts from the landmark voting rights victory, most notably the original 19th Amendment document (on limited display).

Visitors can also view World War I-era Red Cross uniforms, a National Woman’s Party banner and a collection of political campaign buttons. ▶ museum.archives.gov/ rightfully-hers NATIONAL ARCHIVES

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

U.S. CAPITOL In addition to statues of past presidents, Alexander Hamilton and Martin Luther King Jr., the Capitol Rotunda houses a monument dedicated to a trio of significant women suffragists. The 14,000-pound group portrait monument immortalizes Elizabeth Cady Stanton, one of the first women to demand the right to vote; Susan B. Anthony, who paved the way for the 19th Amendment; and Lucretia Mott, a Quaker activist who fought for women’s equality in the 1800s.

The National Woman’s Party presented the monument as a gift to the Capitol in 1921, a year after women got the vote, unveiling it on what would have been Anthony’s 101st birthday. ▶ aoc.gov/capitol-hill/ other-statues/portraitmonument

STANTON ANTHONY MOTT/ ARCHITECT OF THE U.S. CAPITOL

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

MARYLAND | ANNAPOLIS

Maryland State House VISIT ANNAPOLIS

Stroll Through the Past Annapolis reveals its story one block at a time

By Adam Stone

T

HE HISTORIC CITY OF Annapolis, Md.,

has seen its fair share of trouble.

In 1765, a mob sent the Crownappointed stamp tax collector Zachariah Hood running out of town in fear for his life. During the Civil War, the city’s strategic location made it a focal point in the defense of Washington, D.C., and it was one of the cities caught up in the “Red Summer” racial

violence of 1919.

The point is: This is a town that knows how to weather a storm. Even with many businesses — including the U.S. Naval Academy, normally a must-see for visitors — closed or curtailed by COVID-19, it retains its Colonial-era charm.

A casual stroll through the historic downtown district will reveal a wealth of architectural gems, many of which speak quiet volumes about the early history of the region and the nation.

Most visible among these is the Maryland

State House. It’s the oldest state capitol in continuous legislative use, and was briefly the home of the Continental Congress. It was here that the Treaty of Paris was ratified, marking the official end of the Revolutionary War, and it was where George Washington resigned his military commission.

The city’s other architectural highlights include a number of historic homes.

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MARYLAND | ANNAPOLIS

William Paca House

Maryland State House

Chancery Lane VISIT ANNAPOLIS

Work began on the Hammond-Harwood House in the mid-1770s, when tobacco farmer and state delegate Matthias Hammond bought a 4-acre site. He commissioned English architect William Buckland to build a house where the Anglo-Palladian design is noted today for its proportion and grace.

Just a stone’s throw away is the William Paca House, a Georgian mansion built in the 1760s by Paca, one of four Marylanders who signed the Declaration of Independence and a three-term governor of the state. Once used as a hotel, the house was painstakingly restored by a team of archival researchers, archaeologists, architectural historians and others. It was named a National Historic Landmark in 1971 by the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

A few short blocks away, visitors can amble the compact but charming campus of St. John’s College, an assemblage of historic brick buildings and rolling green lawns. Traditionally, midshipmen from the Naval Academy go head-to-head with Johnnies in a spirited croquet match for the Annapolis Cup — an event for which locals

don their turn-of-the-century finest — but the annual contest was sidelined this year by the coronavirus.

Having strolled amongst these closely situated downtown sites, more adventuresome visitors may wish to explore Annapolis’ series of littleknown side streets and alleyways, the scenic cut-throughs that offer novel glimpses of the city.

There’s Chancery Lane, a footpath between Annapolis’ State Circle and Main Street; and Ridout Alley, which connects Main Street and Duke of Gloucester Street. Often overlooked, the brightly colored homes of Pinkney Street are among the oldest and most picturesque in town.

As you explore, watch for the colored marker signs that adorn many of the historic buildings.

Red markers highlight Georgian architecture (1700s to 1800s); blue is for the Federal style (1780s to 1840s); green denotes Greek Revival (1820s to 1860s); and purple identifies Victorian structures (1869-1901).

From downtown, an easy stroll across the Spa Creek Bridge takes visitors to the residential Eastport neighborhood. This enclave jokingly

declared itself the Maritime Republic of Eastport some years back, “seceding” from the city while the bridge was closed for repairs. Its charming cottages and more imposing homes still offer a pleasing reprieve.

Back downtown, the waterfront is the picturesque heart of the city and a typical destination for weekend visitors. There are plenty of spots to set up an impromptu picnic along Ego Alley, the narrow channel of water that guides boaters from the Chesapeake Bay right to the center of the city.

A stroll along Ego Alley leads to Susan Campbell Park, with its sweeping views of the Severn River, gateway to the Chesapeake Bay. Nearby Maryland Avenue has long been a tourist destination, a picturesque street chock-full of boutiques, antique stores, coffee shops and bookstores. The historic storefronts and treelined side streets make for a relaxing afternoon amble, a pleasing reminder that whatever the trials of the day, Annapolis endures as a vital symbol of the mid-Atlantic’s historic and cultural heritage.

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NEW JERSEY | THE SHORE

Walking the Boards From serene seascapes to thrill rides, N.J. boardwalks have something for everyone

By Fiona Soltes

S

ALTWATER TAFFY, AMUSEMENT PIERS and boardwalks:

Could there be anything more New Jersey?

David G. Schwartz, Atlantic City native and author of Boardwalk Playground: The Making, Unmaking, & Remaking of Atlantic City, tells the tale of the first boardwalk, opened in 1870 to keep guests from tracking sand into hotel lobbies. But he also has his own story, of spending a season dressed as Mr. Peanut for the Boardwalk Peanut Shoppe.

“It was a different summer job, to say the least,” Schwartz admits.

Scaled for walking and bathed in ocean breezes, the boardwalks of New Jersey — almost 20 in all — offer memories for the taking.

Most discussions on the topic begin with Atlantic City.

“From an early-morning bike ride, to afternoon shopping in souvenir shops, a midafternoon snack of funnel cakes and saltwater taffy to an early alfresco dinner, the Atlantic City Boardwalk

Atlantic City CASINO REINVESTMENT DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

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NEW JERSEY | THE SHORE has something for everyone,” says Larry Sieg, director of communications and marketing for the Casino Reinvestment Development Authority. “You can top off the evening with a 220-foot ride on the Steel Pier Observation Wheel, ride go-karts at Central Pier or practice your axe-throwing skills at the AC Axe and Pub.” Absecon Lighthouse, the third-tallest lighthouse in the U.S., is nearby.

Seeking a less ostentatious experience? Head south to Cape May County.

At Ocean City, the Music Pier dates back to 1928, offering beach views and a variety of entertainment — including an annual Ocean City Pops series.

The Wildwoods, meanwhile, has 38 blocks of boardwalk including eateries, amusement piers, water parks and a state-of-the-art entertainment venue overlooking the water that hosts concerts, car shows, competitions and a Fabulous ’50s & Beyond Weekend every

October. There’s Breakfast in the Sky at Morey’s Piers and Water Parks, with four-person gondolas on a Ferris wheel that rises 150 feet above sea level. The Wildwoods is home to artBOX, too, a bright mini village crafted from shipping

personality and identity: Asbury Park, Avon-by-the-Sea, Belmar, Long Branch, Ocean Grove, Sea Girt and Spring Lake.

Tom Arnone, Monmouth County freeholder director (akin to a county commissioner), notes that Long Branch

“But out of all of them, my heart will always be with Asbury, because I was raised on that beach.

It’s really special to see it flourishing like it is now.”

— TOM ARNONE, Monmouth County freeholder director

containers that allows visitors to see artists in action.

Neighboring North Wildwood shares some amenities, but is a bit calmer overall.

At the Shore’s far northern end, Monmouth County has wooden boardwalks in seven different towns, each with its own

is modern and has a Caribbean vibe; Asbury Park is family oriented; Sea Girt and Spring Lake are a bit more remote; Belmar appeals to active young folks and has a vibrant bar scene; Avon-by-the-Sea is great for groups and setting up camp on the beach; and Ocean Grove offers peaceful walks and beautiful views.

“Each one is extremely enjoyable,” Arnone says. “But out of all of them, my heart will always be with Asbury, because I was raised on that beach. It’s really special to see it flourishing like it is now.”

Not far from Asbury Park, Bradley Beach, with its stone boardwalk and Fifth Avenue gazebo, also presents a relaxed pace.

Then there’s Seaside Heights (the original setting for the Jersey Shore TV show), complete with a Ferris wheel, sky ride and arcade. Point Pleasant Beach offers Jenkinson’s Boardwalk, which features a fun house and numerous arcades.

Want to take in a bit of it all? NJ.com notes that those who begin on the “sleepy boards” at Spring Lake could “walk/jog/ run all the way to the top of Asbury Park,” journeying through six beach towns and nearly 7 miles of mostly continuous boardwalk.

The Wildwoods

Bradley Beach

Spring Lake

Asbury Park MONMOUTH COUNTY TOURISM (3); THE WILDWOODS

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

NEW JERSEY | MEADOWLANDS

Cold Blast Trade sunscreen for snow goggles at this indoor ski center

By David M. Zimmer

L

OOKING FOR A WAY to beat the summer heat? Big SNOW American Dream, which opened last year at the new American Dream mega mall and entertainment complex in East Rutherford, N.J., is billed as North America’s first indoor, year-round real-snow ski and snowboard center.

The 160-foot slope features a graduated incline shaped with 5,500 tons of manufactured snow. At the top, the slope has a 26-degree

incline. Designed to mirror an intermediate ski run, it starts off noticeably steep but transitions to a more gradual incline as it progresses.

Air temperature is a steady 28 degrees Fahrenheit. However, due to the activity inside, the snow gradually melts. A specially designed system collects the melt for redistribution as fresh snow. The center is making snow now, so it can reopen as soon as indoor amusements receive coronavirus-related state approval.

The slope is two escalator rides up from a parking lot. Wristband scanners usher guests through the locker rooms and on to the ski lift.

Part of the Big SNOW concept is to use the controlled environment to introduce newcomers to skiing. The company that runs the center, SNOW Operating, consults for resorts in Canada, Colorado and other ski destinations.

“It’s easy in, easy out. It’s clean and it’s affordable,” says Anthony Melchiorri, host of Travel Channel’s Hotel Impossible and one of the first guests to hit the slopes at Big SNOW. “Kids that never would have thought of skiing can come here and experience it.”

David M. Zimmer writes for NorthJersey.com.

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PENNSYLVANIA | PHILADELPHIA

A City for the Epicurious Philadelphia has iconic foods, but diners would be wise to branch out

Zahav MICHAEL PERSICO

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

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PENNSYLVANIA | PHILADELPHIA

By Sandy Smith

T Beilers Bakery READING TERMINAL MARKET

HE LINES AT SOME cheesesteak joints are nearly as iconic as the sandwiches.

But if your trip to Philadelphia — also known for pretzels and hoagies — focuses solely on these foods, you might as well have skipped the Liberty Bell.

Philadelphia is home to a thriving food scene, says Jeff Guaracino, president and CEO of Visit Philadelphia. He notes that the city’s chefs have amassed 16 James Beard Awards in recent years, including best chef, best restaurant and best restaurateur.

The James Beard Foundation features Philadelphia as one of the cities on its Taste America tour.

The City of Brotherly Love also boasts a strong ethnic restaurant ethos, one that stretches back to its founding, says Irene Levy Baker, author of Unique Eats and Eateries of Philadelphia and 100 Things To Do In Philadelphia Before You Die. William Penn guaranteed religious freedom in Pennsylvania, and “that attracted a diverse population,” Levy Baker says.

Restaurants paid homage to food from back home. That, in turn, “attracted other adventurous eaters, who discovered and fell in love with the ethnic delicacies,” she says.

CHEF DRIVEN

Tommy DiNic’s READING TERMINAL MARKET

Zahav ALEXANDRA HAWKINS

Expect to be “wowed” by Philadelphia’s fine dining, Guaracino says.

Perhaps there is no place better to start than at one of CookNSolo Restaurants’ eight distinct venues.

Mike Solomonov, who co-owns the business with Steve Cook, was named outstanding chef by the James Beard Awards for Zahav, which describes its cuisine as modern Israeli. In 2019, Zahav became the first Philadelphia eatery to be named James Beard Outstanding Restaurant.

The most accessible of the CookNSolo brands might be Federal Donuts, with eight locations in the city. Coffee, doughnuts and Koreanstyle fried chicken dominate the menu.

And when it comes to chef-driven offerings, CookNSolo is hardly alone: Fine dining and innovation extends into veganism at Vedge, Levy Baker says.

ETHNIC ROOTS RUN DEEP If you’re looking for an old-school Italian restaurant, ask for them by

their Philadelphia nickname: a “red gravy joint,” Levy Baker says. Tops among these are The Victor Cafe, which bills itself as the place where music lovers rendezvous; each server is also an opera singer, and songs break out with some regularity.

Ralph’s Italian Restaurant, now in its fifth generation of family ownership, proclaims itself America’s oldest Italian restaurant — in business since 1900.

Beyond Italy is the somewhat misnamed Chinatown, located in the city center near the Pennsylvania Convention Center. Within a few blocks, diners can choose from tastes of Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Burma and Vietnam. Dim Sum Garden is one of the many options, and the pork soup dumplings are a delight. Stop

by Ray’s Café and Tea House for a syphon coffee — grounds are brewed under vapor pressure — on your way to Chinatown Square, where the food court boasts flavors of Korean, Cambodian and Japanese street cuisine — all served with a side of karaoke.

Guaracino suggests venturing out to neighborhoods in West Philadelphia for tastes of the Caribbean, North Africa, India and Pakistan. In Northeast Philadelphia, Portuguese, Indian and Russian restaurants delightfully coexist.

Federal Donuts MICHAEL PERSICO

READING TERMINAL MARKET Philadelphia’s diverse flavors come together in just a few blocks at the Reading Terminal Market, which Guaracino calls “an icon of Philadelphia’s food scene.” Many of the restaurants have been in the market for decades, including Tommy DiNic’s — where the roast pork was once named the best sandwich in America by the Travel Channel. Beiler’s Bakery offers Pennsylvania Dutch treats like sticky buns and whoopee pies.

Laser Wolf MICHAEL PERSICO

DRINKS ON YOU Because of the difficulty in getting a liquor license, many Philadelphia restaurants have “turned lemon into limoncello,” Levy Baker says.

BYOB establishments are less costly to open, which has given rise to the many small chef-driven and ethnic restaurants. It also keeps costs down for diners, who can bring their own wine and spirits. All of this combines to “really energize the area’s restaurant scene,” says Guaracino.

The Victor Cafe THE VICTOR CAFE

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PENNSYLVANIA | PHILADELPHIA

Beyond the Bell Five other things to see and do in Philadelphia

By Sara M. Moniuszko

N

EVER BEEN TO PHILADELPHIA?

Neither had I — at least until I took a weekend trip there last summer.

Although I knew the primary thing to see in the City of Brotherly Love was the Liberty Bell, I was looking for an alternative for my first visit — and also got advice from Philly frequenters who told me about other gems worth checking out in addition to (or even instead of) the typical tourist stops.

So, if you’re seeking inspiration for your first trip to Philadelphia or are a return visitor looking for something fresh to see, check out these five suggestions that aren’t the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall or the “Rocky Steps” at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Mosaics at Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens

PHILADELPHIA’S MAGIC GARDENS If you’re into art — or just looking for the perfect Insta-worthy spot for some only-in-Philly photos — try Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Located just below the city center (about a 20-minute walk from both the Liberty Bell and City Hall), this outdoor art gallery is a maze of mosaics and other fun sculptures and art installations. If you’re visiting in the summer, you can escape the heat in its indoor exhibits.

The gardens are great for budget-minded travelers; time-slotted adult tickets are $10; student, senior and military discounts are also available.

Need to kill some time before your time slot? The Italian Market is less than 10 minutes away. Stroll through the outdoor market, where vendors sell fresh produce and other goods, and browse specialty meat and cheese shops, restaurants, bookstores and more. ▶ phillymagicgardens.org

GETTY IMAGES; VISIT PHILADELPHIA

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PENNSYLVANIA | PHILADELPHIA

VISIT PHILADELPHIA

READING TERMINAL MARKET If you like to eat and shop, the Reading Terminal Market is right for you.

From Philly favorites to Amish delights and Italian treats, the market is your one-stop shop for any meal of the day (or a between-meal snack).

The market is also home to several shops offering gifts and the perfect souvenirs to bring back home. ▶ readingterminal market.org

CHEESESTEAK CHOW DOWN Although I try to avoid the obvious tourist clichés, I couldn’t help but sample the city’s food staple. Philadelphia has several quasi-famous cheesesteak purveyors, but I recommend a lesser-known spot, Woodrow’s Sandwich Shop.

Woodrow’s serves up a flavorful cheesesteak made with its own in-house cheese whiz. Out of all the cheesesteaks I tried, the Woodrow’s Whiz Wit — which comes with shaved ribeye, truffle whiz, cherry pepper mayo and caramelized onions — was definitely the best. ▶ woodrowsandwich.com

Reconstructed exhibit of Al Capone’s cell

Al Capone’s actual cell

EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY By far, the unexpected highlight of the trip was the Eastern State Penitentiary. Although I was looking forward to exploring the former prison, I wasn’t expecting to be blown away by the building’s sprawling size and rich history. Alhough it’s most famous for being the temporary home of notorious gangster Al Capone, the prison brings others’ stories to life with detailed audio that guides you along the lengthy cell blocks.

If you’re traveling with children, not all sections of the prison are suitable — for example, the audio guide information on the death row cell and other aspects of prison life may be disturbing — but sensitive material is labeled. The penitentiary’s website does not recommend tours for children under age 7. ▶ easternstate.org SARA M. MONIUSZKO; VISIT PHILADELPHIA

Fishtown VISIT PHILADELPHIA

EXPLORE A NEIGHBORHOOD Want to find even more hidden gems? Get out of the touristy areas and into some off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods. For example, Fishtown, which is located north of the Liberty Bell tourist scene, is full of good food and street art. Like craft beer? Check out Evil Genius Beer Company for some fun and fresh brews.

And what goes better with beer than pizza? Pizza Brain is a shop and museum housing the planet’s largest collection of pizza memorabilia, as certified by Guinness World Records — and the pizza (available in full pies or by the slice) is delicious.

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VIRGINIA | EASTERN SHORE

Assateague Island GETTY IMAGES

The Hidden Shore Remote stretches of sandy beach are just part of region’s allure

By Ken Perrotte

L

ISTING NOTABLE MIDATLANTIC BEACHES is often

a roundup of the usual suspects: Virginia Beach; Ocean City, Md.; Rehoboth Beach, Del.; and any of a dozen spots on the Jersey Shore.

Then there is Virginia’s Eastern Shore. At the southern tip of the Delmarva Peninsula, it’s a place somewhat off the beaten path even in 2020, with landscapes seemingly lost — or at least lagging — in time.

Here is a look at three such destinations:

ASSATEAGUE ISLAND Assateague Island stretches 37 miles along the coasts of Maryland and Virginia. The Virginia district is managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service as Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Beachgoers can marvel at sunrises over the Atlantic Ocean while sometimes glimpsing Assateague’s wild horses, made famous in the children’s book, Misty of Chincoteague.

Exiting the main highway, drivers pass NASA’s Wallops Flight Facility and cruise through the historic island town of Chincoteague and past the iconic Assateague

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VIRGINIA | EASTERN SHORE

Assateague Island GETTY IMAGES

Lighthouse before reaching the Toms Cove Visitor Center. There, a sandy beach road extends a half-mile along the waterfront. Driving a four-wheeldrive vehicle along the beach is allowed after receiving an Over Sand Vehicle permit. Horseback riding is also allowed on the same stretch.

Shell collectors may keep one gallon or less of unoccupied shells. Birdwatching is spectacular and visitors sometimes spot secretive, small sika deer. Kayaking is also popular.

The closest rental locations are in Chincoteague, which likewise offers several excellent seafood restaurants, hotels and other lodging options. A few campgrounds are nearby, including one at Assateague Island National Seashore, on the Maryland side of the island.

This popular area can get crowded in summer and early fall. Pets are prohibited. Entrance fees vary, and passes may be used at both Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge and Assateague Island National Seashore.

CAPE CHARLES

Cape Charles EASTERN SHORE OF VIRGINIA TOURISM COMMISSION

Kiptopeke State Park VIRGINIA STATE PARKS

Cape Charles is a superb base of operations for visiting the southern tip of Virginia’s Eastern Shore. With a full-time population of about 1,000 and another 600 seasonal residents, you’ll never feel crowded in this quaint community.

The town was an important Chesapeake Bay steamship port and railroad terminus and is sprinkled with a blend of opulent homes with gingerbread ornamentation and several examples of 1920s houses ordered from Sears, Roebuck and Co.’s Modern Homes catalogs. Its beach spans some 2,000 feet of waterfront along Bay Avenue. Famed for unbelievable sunsets, tranquil kid-friendly waters and large wading pool areas, it’s the area’s only public beach without entrance or parking fees. Pets are prohibited from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. between May 1 and Labor Day, but allowed outside of these hours and timeframe. Amenities include park benches, a pavilion and public restroom at the south end near the fishing pier (no license needed for fishing or crabbing).

The pier is also a relaxing spot to soak up the waterfront ambiance; most of the town’s restaurants and shops are clustered along Mason Avenue, adjacent to the pier.

Karen Zamorski, program director of Cape Charles Main Street, says

visitors rave about the kayaking and winery tours, while others love the pier, fishing excursions, nature walks and boutique shopping. Several homes are now elegant bed-andbreakfast operations.

Cape Charles is a mile west of U.S. Route 13, the Eastern Shore’s main thoroughfare, and about 20 miles north of the Chesapeake Bay BridgeTunnel, which traverses the mouth of the bay from the Virginia Beach area.

KIPTOPEKE STATE PARK The Eastern Shore’s southern tip is renowned as a migration hot spot for shorebirds and seabirds, prompting many tourists to set wing for Kiptopeke State Park, located just northwest of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel.

Kiptopeke offers two Chesapeake Bay beaches. The pristine northern beach, open only for swimming and closest to the park’s campground, is perfect for beachcombers who value seclusion. People on foot, plus occasional wildlife, are all you might expect to encounter on this nearly half-mile stretch of sand.

The south beach, more than a mile long, is closer to the park’s interior trails. With dunes rising up to meet maritime forest, the beach can be a near-private oasis at many times of the year. Swimming, fishing, crabbing, boating and leashed pets are allowed.

Andrew Sporrer, public relations and marketing specialist for Virginia State Parks’ eastern region, says, “The beaches at Kiptopeke are more or less the same you’ll find closer to Virginia Beach with one major difference — fewer people. The Eastern Shore offers an opportunity to slow down and enjoy nature on a more personal level. Kiptopeke also boasts one of the best sunsets in the state, if not the country.”

Shell enthusiasts say 562-acre Kiptopeke is an ideal spot for finding horseshoe crab shells.

Admission and parking fees are $7 daily per vehicle. The park has cabins, lodges, RV and tent camping, yurts and a bunkhouse, plus 5.1 miles of hiking and biking trails. It has an excellent boat ramp, plus a lighted fishing pier ($3-$5 daily pier fees).

Visitors can also paddle a kayak to the “concrete ships” — World War II relics now arrayed as a breakwater for the Kiptopeke shoreline. Rental kayaks, paddleboards and bikes are available at the camp store.

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VIRGINIA | BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAINS

By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

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Shenandoah’s Splendor Get out of your car to truly see this national park

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KYLINE DRIVE RUNS THE

length of Shenandoah National Park, tracing the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains once trod by Native Americans and early settlers.

The 105-mile-long roadway, with nearly 70 scenic outlooks, is a marvel, but Shenandoah deserves more than a drive-by look. Hiking, fishing and camping offer a back-tonature escape just 75 miles west of the nation’s capital.

Shenandoah is laced with 500 miles of hiking trails, including 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail. If a secluded hike in the woods is your goal, head to the far-flung north and south districts of the park. While the central district trails get more foot traffic, the scenery is grand (think mountain summits and waterfalls), and several trailheads are accessible from Skyland Lodge and Big Meadows Campground.

Shenandoah’s four major campgrounds are open from late March to late fall. Reservations are highly recommended on weekends and holidays. Loft Mountain, at mile 79.5, is the largest. Perched atop Big Flat Mountain, the campground has access to two waterfalls and the hiking trails of the Big Run section of the Shenandoah Wilderness Area.

If you really want “remote,” there are 196,000 acres of backcountry to explore. The park’s wildlife includes black bears, deer and wild turkeys, so animal-watching opportunities are plentiful. And with more than 70 streams and 40 fish species, Shenandoah is a mecca for fly-fishing enthusiasts. Check the park website for information on licensing and limits, and stop by the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center at mile 4.6 on Skyline Drive, or the Harry F. Byrd Sr. Visitor Center at mile 51, for information, backcountry permits, maps and exhibits.

“The beautiful forests, clear mountain streams, rare plants and animals, and abundance of hiking trails make Shenandoah special,” says Roy Wood, Shenandoah’s chief of interpretation and education.

“What truly makes it unique is that all of this is within a two-hour drive of Washington, D.C.” ▶ nps.gov/shen

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WEST VIRGINIA | HARPERS FERRY

Hike Through History Natural beauty and the scars of war combine in Harpers Ferry

By David Volk

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ARPERS FERRY NATIONAL HISTORICAL Park may

be best known for the battle intended to start a slave revolt in the years before the Civil War, but there’s more to this West Virginia park than John Brown’s infamous, ill-fated raid, says National Park Service Public Affairs Specialist Autumn Cook.

For starters, there are the views. Located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, the outlook known as The Point provides sweeping views of both rivers, old bridge piers and the waters flowing through a gap in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Although the main portion of the park is in West Virginia, it encompasses parts of Maryland and Virginia, as well.

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John Brown Fort

View of Harpers Ferry from Maryland Heights PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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WEST VIRGINIA | HARPERS FERRY

Lower town view from Shenandoah Street

The park’s 22 miles of trails also make it popular with hikers. Options range from the moderate 3-mile MurphyChambers Farm Trail with views of the Shenandoah River, Civil War cannons and the foundation of John Brown’s fort, to the challenging 6.5-mile Maryland Heights Trail featuring a Civil War naval battery and stone fort. Legend has it that Abraham Lincoln started walking Maryland Heights, but quickly gave up.

Cook also cites the park’s biodiversity.

There are approximately 120 bird species, and she’s seen peregrine falcons, mink, river otters and turtles.

Although it had been a commercial hub since the 1750s, Harpers Ferry came to national prominence after abolitionist

Brown raided the armory there in hopes of getting weapons to encourage a slave revolt. Brown was captured quickly, but historians say his actions helped push the country toward the Civil War. History buffs will find plenty to explore in the area. In addition to Brown’s fort, there are numerous landmarks, including the Meriwether Lewis exhibit chronicling his time preparing provisions for his transcontinental expedition and the Black Voices Museum. And there are five Civil War battlefields within 60 miles of Harpers Ferry.

If you have time to visit only one site, Cook suggests Bolivar Heights, which offers grand views of much of the park. ▶ nps.gov/hafe

Bolivar Heights PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

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WASHINGTON, D.C. | FOURTH OF JULY

LIFTING SPIRITS It’s been a rough year on multiple fronts, but almost nothing can boost morale like a great fireworks display. And wherever you may be watching, there’s no better show than the July Fourth fireworks over the National Mall.

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Give them tomorrow Premature birth is the #1 killer of babies. Every baby deserves a fighting chance.

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