NORTHEAST 20 21
NEW ENGLAND • NEW YORK • MID-ATLANTIC
MOUNTAIN SUMMITS Sleep above the clouds in New Hampshire
ROAD TRIPS Bike new network of East Coast trails
TRAVEL SAFELY Know ways to reduce risks of COVID-19
COASTAL LIVING Wander Maryland’s St. Michaels Island
Renew Portland Head Light historic lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth, Maine
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CONTENTS
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NORTHEAST
SLOW YOUR ROLL Road-tripping by bicycle lets you view scenery up close
The Erie Canalway Trail near Niskayuna, N.Y. ERIE CANALWAY NATIONAL HERITAGE CORRIDOR
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CONTENTS 38
RHODE ISLAND Nature walks even the locals may not know about This is a product of
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CONNECTICUT Enjoy Mystic’s culinary delights in a seaside setting
EDITORIAL
MID-ATLANTIC
DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes jbstokes@usatoday.com
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Von Trapp Brewing Bierhall
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NEW YORK Take a break in New York City’s reclaimed spaces
VON TRAPP BREWING
UP FRONT
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CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com
MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
PENNSYLVANIA Philadelphia’s best spots for strolling and recreation
mjwashington@usatoday.com
ISSUE EDITOR Deirdre van Dyk ISSUE DESIGNER Hayleigh Corkey
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BREATHE EASY Studies show plane cabin air unlikely to transmit COVID-19
JOURNEY 10 GERM-FREE Products that help keep
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Explore the history of picturesque Lehigh Valley
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NEW JERSEY
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DELAWARE
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MARYLAND
A taste of African diaspora in the Garden State
you safe while traveling
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12 Must-have travel essentials PERFECT PACKING
OLAIDE’S KITCHEN
Sample the president’s favorite foods in and around Wilmington
NEW ENGLAND
FEATURE
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ALL YOURS
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Camp on private islands for the ultimate getaways
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MAINE Moosehead Lake offers rest and relaxation
NEW HAMPSHIRE
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Climb the Granite State’s mountaintops and stay in hilltop cabins
VERMONT
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St. Michaels’ small waterfront community delights
WASHINGTON, D.C. Experience the true nature of the nation’s capital
Savor the southwest corner of the Old Dominion
pburke@usatoday.com
ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Vanessa Salvo | (703) 854-6499
FINANCE Billing Coordinator Julie Marco
WEST VIRGINIA Check out charming small towns
MASSACHUSETTS
Marvel at Miraval Berkshires menu of active amenities
VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914
VIRGINIA
Cap your healthy hike with locally crafted beer
Explore old and new Boston
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Diane Bair, Rebecca Dalzell, Erin Gifford, Sarah Griesemer, Brent Hallenbeck, Jenna Intersimone, John Kostrzewa, Linda Laban, Bob Makin, Lisa Elia More, Sarah Sekula, Patricia Talorico, Celeste E. Whittaker, Chris Woodyard, Pamela Wright
vsalvo@usatoday.com
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DESIGNERS David Hyde Debra Moore Gina Toole Saunders Lisa M. Zilka
ADVERTISING
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EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Tracy Scott Forson Harry Lister Debbie Williams
LAST LOOK
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During quarantine, one resort took on a historic renovation
All prices and availability are subject to change.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Lakes of the Clouds, New Hampshire EMILY DAVENPORT/APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB
FOR MORE THAN A year, the COVID-19 pandemic has affected our lives, our livelihoods and the economy, and upended plans for travelers across the world. There have been major developments on the health front, accompanied by cautious optimism that global travel could be embarking on a “new normal.” As we continue to grapple with the unprecedented scope of this pandemic, some events, festivals and celebrations are resuming with varied stipulations and baseline measures that aim to reduce the spread of the virus while others remain suspended. And businesses across the country that remained open with safety precautions to provide lodging, food and transportation throughout the shutdown are welcoming more visitors. The USA TODAY Network is committed to providing timely, engaging and accurate information in our coverage, but given the evolving nature of this health crisis, we realize that there will undoubtedly be changes to the accessibility of many of
the locations, venues and services mentioned throughout this publication. Please check with businesses for the latest updates. We also know that the travel and tourism industry is resilient. It has rebounded from natural disasters, economic recessions and other crises before, and while this pandemic is uncharted territory, it is our hope that national and international exploration will safely return to robust levels. In the meantime, we will continue to look beyond today and provide you with the amazing sights, sounds, tastes and experiences that await.
Deirdre van Dyk Issue Editor
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UP FRONT | TRAVEL
Breathe Easy Air on planes is safer than in homes or operating rooms
GETTY IMAGES
By Chris Woodyard
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2020 STUDY CONDUCTED
for the Department of Defense adds credence to the growing belief that airline passengers are not likely to contract COVID-19 when flying. The study found the risk of aerosol dispersion was reduced 99.7 percent thanks to high air exchange rates, HEPA-filtered recirculation and downward ventilation found on modern jets. Investigators looked at the impact of an infected passenger on those seated nearby in the cabins of Boeing 767s and 777s. Those two aircraft types are wide-bodies typically used for long-haul flights where a virus could be expected to spread more easily. To test the exposure risk for passengers sitting near an infected person, researchers released fluorescent tracer aerosols representing the droplets released by exhaling or coughing and
reduce viral exposure. In fact, the study looked at the impact on multiple “breathfound that contamination in the aircraft ing zones” throughout the aircraft. More was less than what is found in private than 11,500 breathing zone seat measureresidences. ments were taken with releases from 46 With the airflow from ceiling to floor, different seats. “There is no place indoors that “The reality is those tests it is anywhere close to that” are indicative of what hapwhen it comes to limiting pens on every airplane. An airthe spread of the virus, Kirby craft is just a remarkably safe TIP: During air says. He urged other airlines environment,” says United to emulate United’s policy Airlines CEO Scott Kirby. travel, keep the vents of making sure power units The study’s team included operate in a way that allows members from United, Boeing, above your seat open passengers to take advantage the University of Nebraska of aircraft ventilation systems Medical Center, National at all times to improve while still at the gate. Strategic Research Institute Kirby also urged passengers and other research firms. ventilation. to make sure that their It was prepared for the U.S. overhead vents are fully Transportation Command and open during their flights to the Air Force’s Air Mobility maximize air circulation. Command. On most planes, the air exchange rate The study reinforces the message is approximately every three minutes, that airlines have been trying to convey and 75 percent comes from outside the that HEPA filters and high turnover plane, meaning that only 25 percent of rates of airflow in passenger cabins
cabin air is recirculated. “The 767 and 777 both removed particulate 15 times faster than a home ... and five to six times faster than recommended design specifications for modern hospital operating or patient isolation rooms,” according to the study. Tests were conducted by placing instruments that can measure particles in proximity to a simulated sick passenger. The study took masks into consideration, factoring that passengers might be wearing the type of surgical masks handed out by airlines. Airline bookings dropped sharply after COVID-19 started infecting millions around the world in the belief that spending hours in cabins in close proximity to other passengers could easily spread the virus. Carriers have tried to allay passengers’ concerns and protect aircrew members’ health by requiring masks, mandating social distancing and instituting other precautions.
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Excite your travel bug. Download our free app.
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UP FRONT | PRODUCTS
The Mundus Pro does serious double duty, providing a UV-C sanitizing tray and wireless charging dock for up to three devices at once, all in one sleek package. ▶ $119.99, einova.com
For a hand-sanitizing experience that’s also a delight for your other senses, make sure you’ve got Keeper’s Citrus cleansing hand spray, which comes in a recyclable aluminum container. ▶ $9, keepersoap.com
Adjustable, ultrabreathable and washable, this Halo Life face mask has replaceable nanofiber filters and comes in four sizes. ▶ $29.94, amazon.com
Feel secure on your next flight with the Safe Travels Kit, which includes an adjustable seat cover, antimicrobial pillow case, sanitizing wipes and a face mask. ▶ $39.95, safetravelskit.com
Keep your hands germ-free when opening doors, pushing buttons and flushing toilets with the portable and easy-to-use Sani-Key. ▶ $7.99, bedbathandbeyond.com PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES
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UP FRONT | PRODUCTS
Perfect Packing Top picks for your wander list By Kristen Seymour
F
ROM ORGANIZATIONAL ACCESSORIES TO shoes and
gear that combine fashion and function, we’ve got just what you need for a bon voyage.
Graduated compression aids circulation in the injinji Ultra Compression OTC socks, while the individual toes help with blister prevention and balance once you land. $49, injinji.com
Never again wonder where your passport, boarding passes and credit cards are. Stash them in the RFIDprotected Bellroy travel folio. $139, bellroy.com
Save space, stay organized and pack like a pro with Calpak’s five-piece packing cube set, which includes a water-resistant envelope and pouch. $58, calpaktravel.com
As lightweight as it is cozy and soft, the Pranayama wrap is a versatile layer that works with anything from jeans to dresses to joggers. $89, athleta.com
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UP FRONT | PRODUCTS
The Monos Carry-On Pro Plus fits a 15-inch laptop along with all your other belongings in a resilient polycarbonate shell. $295, monos.com Keep your electronics organized and safe from any spills with this PatPat waterproof electronics accessories organizer bag. $8.99, us.patpat.com
Made of breathable mesh and synthetic suede, the OluKai Pehuea Lī sneaker offers a supportive footbed, non-marking outsole and a drop-in heel for the ultimate shoe or slide functionality. $100, olukai.com
The Vuori ripstop Pant offers everyday style in a comfortable fit with full range of motion, so you’ll be ready for any adventure — even if it’s just happy hour at the hotel bar. $89, vuoriclothing.com
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Paddle
to Privacy Escape to an island to call your own, if only for a weekend
GETTY IMAGES
By Erin Gifford
W
E HAVE HIT THE water on kayaks, canoes and stand-up paddleboards — the perfect social distancing activity for the coronavirus pandemic. It’s been a cinch to stay a paddle’s length apart on local lakes and ponds. Although many have received a vaccine, social distancing remains a wise protocol. Cautious adventurers are still heading outdoors and seeking refuge at remote campsites where they can keep at least an oar’s length
from strangers. These isolated isles make it easy. Whether you prefer tents and sleeping bags or climate-controlled cabins with bathrooms and electricity there’s a private island for you and your watercraft.
SHARP’S ISLAND, VA. When you want to be in the city, but you want your space too, there’s Sharp’s Island in Richmond, Va. This tiny 1-acre forested island with a sandy beach to boot sits squarely in the middle of the James River, wowing with winning views of the 108-year-old Mayo Bridge and the downtown skyline. Overnight guests can set off in a motorboat from Ancarrow’s Landing or put a kayak or canoe into the river near the south end of the Mayo Bridge to reach Sharp’s Island. Bring your own
tubes or buy a few from the island’s owners for a carefree float along the James River or to simply chill in one of dozens of refreshing swimming holes. Watch the sun set, then toast marshmallows over a fire pit before retiring to your campsite under the stars. Andy Thompson, one of the island’s owners, noticed he had the perfect socially distanced escape last summer. “People realized they could get out and camp with their families and be CONTINUED
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Lake George, N.Y. ALDEN PELLETT
totally separated from anyone else,” says Thompson.
LAKE GEORGE ISLANDS, N.Y. In New York’s Adirondacks region, Lake George is home to several clusters of state-owned islands that can be reserved for paddle-in day use activities or overnight camping. The Lake George Islands can be reached by canoe or kayak, or even motorized boats and sailboats. The area was once a fashionable summer spot for families to escape
from the city. Photographer Alfred Stieglitz and his wife, artist Georgia O’Keeffe, spent summers on the lake. Stieglitz, who often turned to the sky for inspiration, took photographs of the clouds in his series Equivalents, while O’Keeffe took inspiration from the natural world in her paintings. To spark your own creative journey, book your campsite online at Reserve America.com or take a chance on one of the first-come, first-serve sites. These campsites can only be booked in-person at the ranger station. All
islands have at least one toilet, a fire ring and a picnic table. The Glen Island Group is a favorite with more than two dozen islands, including single-site islands, like Perch and Little Gourd. Hermit Island is a top pick given its proximity to Glen Island, which is home to a ranger station and a general store for live bait, firewood, groceries and other supplies, as well as ice cream scoops.
LITTLE WHORTLEBURY ISLAND, N.H.
Little Whortlebury Island is one of only a handful of private islands for rent on Lake Winnipesaukee. There is no cabin or abode of any kind on the 4-acre island, so plan to bring your own tents and sleeping bags. This does not mean the island lacks amenities. In fact, the island is stocked with cooking utensils and tableware. There is also a large dining table, a stone barbecue pit, food prep tables, tent platforms and a composting toilet. CONTINUED
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We offer some of the most beautiful outdoor space in the Northeast for you to explore and play in.
518-584-3255 • ilovesaratoga.us
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BEFORE YOU
Paddle Away Paddle-in getaways can be ideal for those who prefer not to rub elbows with crowds on sandy beaches or at popular theme parks. However, there is more to know before you push away from shore — as in, know your physical and mental limits. ■ Take note of the weather and share your float plan with family or friends on land. ■ Wear a personal flotation device and know how to safely get in and out of a watercraft.
Coney Island, W.Va. GETTY IMAGES; MOUNTAINPLEX PROPERTIES
“PEOPLE REALIZED THEY COULD GET OUT AND CAMP WITH THEIR
■ Once you’ve had all the good times, practice leave-no-trace principles. Pack your trash and leave the island as clean and natural as it was when you arrived.
FAMILIES AND BE TOTALLY SEPARATED FROM ANYONE ELSE.” — Andy Thompson, Sharp’s Island, Va.
BYOB (boat, that is) or rent one from Melvin Village Marina for the short hop to Little Whortlebury Island. Spend your days fishing in the lake or tuning in to the haunting calls of the majestic loons. Make time to paddle or motor out to Liliuokalani’s Ice Cream Shop for a scoop or two. Staying on Little Whortlebury truly allows you to get back to basics, like blueberries. “One of the great things about the island is that there are tons of wild blueberries to feast on, especially in August,” says Sabra Gandhi Sellers, daughter-in-law of
the island’s owner, noted American architect David Sellers.
CONEY ISLAND, W.VA. Coney Island may be part of the name, but this retreat is not close to Brooklyn. It’s actually within the New River Gorge National Park, recently designated as a preserve in the National Park System. Here, you’ll find The Cabin on Coney Island, a climate-controlled cabin that can sleep up to 10 people between two bedrooms and a loft with three twin-size trundle beds.
Coney Island is located at the confluence of the New and Greenbrier rivers in Hinton. The cabin has amenities such as flush toilets, a full kitchen, electricity and air conditioning. Outside, you’ll find a fire pit as well as comfortable chairs to read in on the porch. The island is just a quick paddle from shore, just the length of a football field from the boat launch to the island. But an in-town outfitter can also taxi you over. Beyond a well-appointed cabin, you’ll find 7 acres of hiking trails and a small sandy beach. Bring your own
food for lunch and dinner. Breakfast basics are provided — fresh fruit, cereal, oatmeal, coffee and tea. The cabin is also stocked with cleaning supplies, paper products and firewood. “Guests who come to the island for a vacation want to stay on the island,” says Holli Lathroum, marketing manager of MountainPlex Properties, which operates the cabin. “They want to kayak around the island, go fishing, listen to the river and not do a lot of anything, just relax.”
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SLOW YOUR ROLL Take a different type of road trip By Rebecca Dalzell
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Planning your trip
Adams Basin, N.Y. KEITH BOAS PHOTOGRAPHY
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few years after I moved to New York, I cycled from Brooklyn to Montreal. Pushing off from my front door, I pedaled across the Brooklyn Bridge and up the Hudson River, climbed through the Adirondacks and rolled along Lake Champlain. It was a way to get to know my adopted state and its Stewart’s Shops, faded mill towns and roadside apple trees. I felt its topography in my legs and breathed its spruce-scented air. Going 10 miles an hour, I got a different view than I would whizzing by on the interstate. I
felt connected to the place. Lately, we’ve all been forced to rediscover areas close to home. As pandemic restrictions limit travel, a bike trip offers a healthy and affordable local escape. Some routes like the the Empire State Trail, at 750 miles the longest statewide trail in the country, are recently completed and have new signage and maps. But all either follow spectacular back roads or are on trails closed to vehicles. As on-road routes and off-road trails multiply nationwide, trails such as this are part of a growing movement to encourage bicycle travel. Here are four to explore:
U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE 201 AND TORREY C. BROWN RAIL TRAIL Maryland
The U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) is a growing network of bikefriendly routes in 31 states and Washington, D.C. In January, it added U.S. Bicycle Route 201 in Maryland, a 62-mile stretch from the Delaware border to Monkton in Baltimore County. Though some roads may be busy, they have wide shoulders and are safe to ride on. You’ll cross the Susquehanna River (only open to cyclists on weekends) and pass farms and a beautiful wooded area around the Big Gunpowder Falls. For those just dipping a toe into riding, try the flat, off-road Torrey C. Brown Rail Trail which runs 20 miles along the old Northern Central Railway line from Cockeysville to New Freedom, Pa., at the state border. If you’re keen to keep pedaling, continue along the 27-mile Heritage Rail Trail to York. ACCESS POINTS
Taking an independent bike tour can be daunting, so just think of it as a road trip that requires some extra planning and fitness. For overnight trips, book campsites, Airbnbs or inns about 40 or 50 miles apart; assuming you average 8 or 10 miles an hour, that gives you time to make stops along the way. These organizations and apps are great resources to help you plan your journey: The Adventure Cycling Association coordinates the U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS), publishes maps for routes nationwide and offers bike touring advice on its blog. ▶ adventurecycling.org Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, a leading advocate for trail development nationwide, publishes maps, information and route reviews on its website and trail-finder app TrailLink. ▶ traillink.com The Ride with GPS app and website helps you find the best cycling routes around the world, with detailed maps, photos and descriptions of rides. ▶ ridewithgps.com The Western New England Greenway is an on-road bike route through Connecticut, Massachusetts and Vermont with downloadable maps. ▶ wnegreenway.org The East Coast Greenway is a 3,000-mile network of on-road routes and trails from Florida to Maine. ▶ greenway.org The Bicycle Coalition of Maine has mapped out recommended routes across the state that you can download to your phone. ▶ bikemaine.org/where-to-ride Warmshowers is a community of bicycle tourists that helps members find places to stay on the road and free places to pitch tents. ▶ warmshowers.org
Cockeysville, Monkton, Elkton and others GETTY IMAGES
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Amsterdam Gateway Bridge, New York NEW YORK STATE OFFICE OF PARKS
EMPIRE STATE TRAIL New York
The two-pronged Empire State Trail (EST) stretches from Manhattan to Canada and Albany to Buffalo. The four-year project created more than 180 miles of new trails and improved highway and railroad crossings; 75 percent of the trail is off road and other segments share low-traffic roads with cars. The route starts at the Battery in lower Manhattan and parallels the Hudson out of the city. In Putnam County, it picks up the scenic 23-mile Maybrook Trailway, which passes waterfalls, lakes and brooks and crosses the Appalachian Trail. Other new highlights include the 36-mile Albany-Hudson Electric Trail, which visits Nassau Lake and historic villages in Columbia County; a bridge near Syracuse with views of Onondaga Lake; and a trail along the Mohawk River. The easiest section for less-experienced riders is the 360-mile trail from Buffalo to Albany, which is almost entirely off road. The ambitious statewide route is the result of decades of advocacy by groups like Parks & Trails New York and the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy. “Once these trails are built, the community can’t imagine life without them,” says Dylan Carey, project director at Parks & Trails New York. “The more it happens, the more people see how much value trails bring to communities, in terms of public health and economic development.” Carey expects the EST to become a model for other regional networks. ACCESS POINTS
Northern Rail Trail, New Hampshire
Multiple places along the route, including New York City, Albany and Buffalo
JEFF LATIMER
U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE 501
GRANITE STATE RAIL TRAIL
The 327-mile U.S. Bicycle Route 501 in inland Maine follows low-traffic rural roads from Bangor to Allagash. Hugging the Penobscot River, it takes in views of Mount Katahdin and passes potato farms and Amish communities in Aroostook County. Near the Canadian border, the route overlaps with the St. John Valley Cultural Byway, where French-English signs reveal the area’s Acadian heritage. Wildlife is abundant: Look for moose in waterways at dawn and dusk, and bald eagles along the Penobscot. Erik da Silva, safety education manager at the Bicycle Coalition of Maine, says you’ll also find Mainers to be friendly to cyclists on these lonely roads. “You see people on their porch, and you wave to each other,” he says. “I’ve asked for water or to pick an apple in their yard.”
New Hampshire has its own statewide bike trail vision: the Granite State Rail Trail (GSRT) running from Salem to Lebanon. It’s a work in progress, with a stretch through wetlands in Londonderry recently opening. For now, Jeff Latimer, bike shop owner and chair of the GSRT organization, recommends a two-day tour from Manchester to Lebanon. The first 40-mile section does follow roads, so families or new cyclists may prefer to start in Boscawen and ride the off-road Northern Rail Trail to Lebanon, about 60 miles. The route passes horse farms, white-steepled churches, pick-your-own apple orchards, quirky general stores and Mascoma Lake, staying close to water much of the time. Serious cyclists can extend their trip by following the on-road Connecticut River Scenic Byway to St. Johnsbury, Vt. It’s all part of another long-term vision: to connect New England’s states through a 1,100-mile trail network.
Maine
ACCESS POINTS
Multiple places along the route, including Bangor, Lincoln and Presque Isle
New Hampshire
ACCESS POINTS
Lebanon, Boscawen, Concord or Manchester
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Lake living
Hut-to-hut trekking
VERMONT Hikes and ales
THE BIG APPLE Domino Park, on 5 acres along the East River, has sweeping views of Manhattan.
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Alfresco exploring
Ocean State strolls
Maritime dining
Philadelphia finds
Delicious dishes
Presidential palate
Seaside delights
Natural sites
Southwest wonders
Small-town visits GETTY IMAGES
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MAINE | HIGHLANDS
Mount Kineo and Moosehead Lake
Scenic Sojourn Get back to nature at Moosehead Lake By Erin Gifford
I
N THE IDYLLIC MAINE Highlands, Moosehead Lake, located 153-miles north of Portland, draws in nature-seekers eager for calming escapes, whether from the hustle and bustle of city life or the stress of the pandemic. It’s where to go to get away from it all, even if your plan is to see and do it all. The largest lake in Maine, covering 120 square miles, Moosehead boasts more than 80 undeveloped islands that paddlers will find ripe for exploration. Some, like Sugar Island and Farm Island, even have primitive paddle-in campsites with picnic tables and fire rings so your outing doesn’t have to wrap up at sunset. Once you’ve explored the lake, get a bird’s-eye view from the top of nearby Big Moose Mountain, Number Four Mountain or Mount Kineo with
their panoramic 360-degree vistas. “Everyone should get a chance to see the area, to hike trails on surrounding mountains for stunning lake views,” says Steve Lyons, director of the Maine Office of Tourism. He suggests trying at least one of the Moosehead Pinnacle Pursuit challenge hikes, which lead to dramatic peaks. You’ll also want to add Gulf Hagas to your must-do list, notes Lyons. Known as the “Grand Canyon of Maine,” a network of hiking trails along a deep river gorge features striking rim views, spectacular overlooks and tumbling waterfalls. No visit to Moosehead Lake is complete without a moose safari to catch a glimpse of this large and gentle animal in the wild. (Fun fact: Moose, Maine’s official animal, are expert swimmers and can dive up to 20 feet, holding their breath underwater for a
full minute.) Registered Maine guides lead trips of all kinds, including by canoe, float plane, van or SUV. If you prefer a self-guided moose safari, go early in the morning or at dusk. Moose can be found in marshy areas and bogs, like Lazy Tom Bog, a hot spot for moose sightings thanks to the abundance of soft marsh grasses they like to munch on. Tamara Gruber, a travel blogger from Providence, R.I., who writes about midlife getaways at YourTimetoFly.com, is a big fan of the unspoiled byways found at Moosehead. “When I visited with my best friend, we had so many laughs as we navigated the backroads. We challenged ourselves to hiking and canoeing, then shared in the sweet feeling of success,” says Gruber. “The best part of the day at Moosehead Lake is unwinding with friends in a cabin on the water.”
WHERE TO STAY A relaxing nature-filled getaway to Moosehead Lake begins in Greenville, the largest town and southernmost point in the region. Make this amenity-rich gateway your home base, or go east or west for cabins and cottages along the pristine lake’s shoreline.
The Birches Resort
For those who want to settle in at a well-appointed lodge or cozy cabin, The Birches Resort in Rockwood has cabins steps from the lake with wide-open water views. For a more luxe experience with fine food and views to boot, get tucked in at the Lodge at Moosehead Lake in Greenville. VISIT MAINE (2); GETTY IMAGES
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Voted Best Resort for Couples in Maine Conveniently located just 90 minutes from Boston in scenic Kennebunkport, Maine.
EXPLORE DINE UNWIND
888-205-0973 nonantumresort.com
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NEW HAMPSHIRE | WHITE MOUNTAINS
Tuckerman Ravine CHRIS SHANE/APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB
Up, Up and Away Spectacular hikes by day, cozy mountaintop cabins by night
By Sarah Sekula
H
UT-TO-HUT HIKING IN NEW Hampshire’s White
Mountains is a rite of passage for many. It’s one of the oldest high-mountain shelter systems in the United States. People have been trekking from shelter to shelter here since 1915. Getting to know the White Mountain National Forest is possible thanks to eight huts — each providing beds and bathrooms along with breakfast and dinner during your stay — along 56
miles of the Appalachian Trail. “Hiking in the alpine zones of the White Mountains is a unique experience on the East Coast,” says James Wrigley, director of White Mountain Huts and Lodges at Appalachian Mountain Club and an experienced hiker who has trekked these trails consistently for the past decade. “Popping up out of the trees for the first time, it can feel like you’re walking on the moon. The dynamic weather and constant views make the experience exciting and CONTINUED
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NEW HAMPSHIRE | WHITE MOUNTAINS
An Alpine garden on Mount Washington EMILY DAVENPORT/APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB
humbling all at once.” The White Mountains contain 1,400 miles of trails that wind through gorgeous landscapes. And many of the major peaks in the national forest are 4,000 feet or higher in alpine zones well above the tree line. So, you’ll have dreamy views of the surrounding mountains, valleys and rock faces. How long a trip to plan for, says Nina Paus-Weiler, Appalachian Mountain Club digital media and communications manager, “depends on how experienced you are and how many miles you want to hike each day. The hut system was originally
built with the intention of allowing hikers to hike from one hut to the next along the Appalachian Trail each day. Some people hike the entire hut traverse in a single day, but that is the exception.” “Starting out with a hike to just one hut, such as to Lonesome Lake or Zealand (Falls) Hut would be a good beginner option,” says Sara DeLucia, Appalachian Mountain Club guided adventure success manager. “If you’re new to the huts — and to hiking — then staying at one of these huts for two nights might be a good way to try it out before heading on to more advanced hut-to-hut trios.”
The section between Galehead and Greenleaf is quite challenging, DeLucia warns, and it’s common for people to underestimate this section and run out of water or arrive at the hut after dinner has already been served. But don’t worry, you can make the journey as easy or a tough as you’d like. Newbies, or those hiking with kids, can opt for lower-elevation hikes leading to ponds, waterfalls and photo-worthy views. The reward for all, according to Paus-Weiler, is that, “Some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the Northeast can be seen while hiking from hut to hut.”
WHAT TO PACK In addition to your camera, “I recommend bringing some warm and wind- and waterresistant layers and wearing clothes that are not made out of cotton,” says Sara DeLucia with the Appalachian Mountain Club. “The weather can change quickly and unexpectedly at all times of year in the White Mountains, so you need to be prepared for a variety of conditions. The huts provide guests with breakfast and dinner, so bringing snacks to eat during the day while you are hiking is important.” Reservations for Appalachian Mountain Club huts or guided hikes can be made at outdoors.org.
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VERMONT | HIKING
Green Mountain Refreshment Enjoy a brisk hike and a cold beer in Vermont By Brent Hallenbeck
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Mad River Valley CHELLIE NAYAR
HEN VISITING VERMONT, ONE recommended activ-
ity is to experience the plentiful nature the state has to offer. Another draw is the bevy of beers local brewers have to offer. Why not try both? The Bristol/Middlebury area has several hikes for all abilities, including the Snake Mountain Trail, which offers views of the Adirondacks. But stunning vistas can equal crowded trails. Sometimes it’s best to get off the literal beaten path. This 4-mile hike through the Green Mountain National Forest’s Abbey Pond Trail offers a perfect blend of pleasant woods, just enough climb to feel it in your hamstrings and the likelihood that you’ll have the peaceful, lily pad-filled body of water all to yourself. For your reward, drive about 6 miles or so to Middlebury’s Drop-In Brewing, which might be the most underrated member of this small state’s high-profile beer scene. Heart of Lothian, a self-confident Scottish ale, might just put enough pep in your step to make you want to climb another of the region’s many mountains. The Mad River Valley in central Vermont is named for a body of water, but the adjective applies in the nicest of ways to the people who live there. An energetic and eccentric collection of snow hounds, backto-the-landers and boundlessly creative types has settled in the area that includes Sugarbush Resort and Mad River Glen, a rustic slope that famously dares adventurers with the slogan “Ski it if you can.” Or hike it if you can. The trail up General Stark Mountain winds in and out of the ski slope, and while it’s on the steep side, the views of the valley are extraordinary. Once you’re back in the valley, take a rest at Lawson’s Finest Liquids in Waitsfield, one
of Vermont’s highest-profile breweries. Lawson’s Sip of Sunshine IPA is the stuff of legends, but don’t overlook the Maple Nipple, a maple ale as strong and smooth as the Mad River itself. Stowe is world-famous for skiing. Skiing means mountains; mountains mean hiking, and there are oodles of trails available for your feet to lead the way. Choosing just one trail in Stowe, however, can be difficult. Stowe Pinnacle is one option that hits that sweet middle spot — a nearly 3-mile effort that’s strenuous enough to work up a sweat but not so taxing that it’ll keep you from that apres-hike beer appointment.
VON TRAPP BREWING
As for that beer, there are almost as many breweries in Stowe as there are trails. The Alchemist conjures one of Vermont’s iconic beers, the hop-heavy Heady Topper. Just across the Mountain Road, Idletyme Brewing Company takes a balanced approach. And don’t forget another of Stowe’s worldfamous attractions, the Trapp Family Lodge, operated for more than 70 years by the family made famous in The Sound of Music. The on-site brewery makes beer that, as its cans note, contains “A little of Austria, a lot of Vermont.” Brent Hallenbeck writes for the Burlington (Vt.) Free Press.
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MASSACHUSETTS | BOSTON
Stroll Through History Get a fresh take on Beantown
F
OUNDED IN 1630, BOSTON is one of America’s
oldest cities, and we’ve hightlighted a few of USA TODAY’s 10Best’s recommended sites for you to get a feel for the historic and modern sides of the city.
BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL Before the Civil War, Beacon Hill housed one of the largest Black communities in Boston. The 1.6-mile Black Heritage Trail explores the history of the 19th-century community on the north slope of the hill. The National Park Service offers maps online so you can take a self-guided tour of the 14 sites — note that you’ll be visiting only the outside of most of the stops. You’ll see where Frederick Douglass delivered a seminal speech against slavery; the home of the 54th Regiment of the Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry, the first Black regiment recruited in the North; the homes of leaders of the abolitionist movement; and the Museum of African American History. Before you leave the area, seek out Acorn Street. This narrow cobblestone street was named by 10Best as one of the most beautiful alleys in the world.
TIM GRAFFT/MOTT
BOSTON COMMON Abutting Beacon Hill is one of the nation’s oldest public parks and part of Boston’s Emerald Necklace. Boston Common encompasses nearly 50 acres and was once reserved as pasture land by early Puritan settlers. Today, the park is a popular destination for recreational athletes, families and protesters eager to dedicate themselves to a cause. And Frog Pond makes for a good picnic stop, with sandwiches or takeout from nearby restaurants.
CHARLES RIVER ESPLANADE In addition to exploring Boston’s rich history, be sure to check out the newer parts of Beantown. In recent decades, cities across the United States have been revitalizing their riverfronts, transforming them into vibrant spaces for outdoor recreation, cultural activity and scenic views. The Charles River Esplanade in downtown Boston is no exception. Featuring a 64-acre park and 17 miles of running trails along the waterfront, it also has a community boat launch, a small seasonal café and an outdoor amphitheater for summer concerts.
10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.
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MASSACHUSETTS | THE BERKSHIRES
More Than Massages Visit Miraval and marvel at its amenities
JAMES BAIGRIE
By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright
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OUNGING AROUND LIKE PAMPERED
royalty at the spa is so over. The Miraval Berkshires retreat, set within the bucolic landscape of Massachusetts’ Berkshire Hills, is all about active adventures like ropes courses, paddleboarding and horseback riding. Besides being energetic pursuits, these activities have something else in common: They take place outdoors. “Our panelists agreed that connecting with nature will continue to be a top trend in wellness,” says Beth McGroarty, research vice president of the Global Wellness Summit. Think mind, body, spirit — and the great outdoors. Because many have been deprived of the luxuries spas offer during quarantines and stay-at-home orders, it’s little wonder that they
now want the works: indulgent treatments, healthy cuisine, life-enhancing seminars and immersion in glorious nature. Losing some of those pandemic pounds in the process is a bonus. Miraval checks all the boxes. Last year, Miraval launched a chic, 380-acre spa in Lenox, with all the bells and whistles ... and horses and gardens. It also boasts a challenge course that offers wall climbing, zip lining and more obstacles. Miraval takes advantage of its natural playground with woodsy hikes, bike rides and kayaking in Laurel Lake, but what makes Miraval a marvel is the long list of unexpected alfresco activities. The summertime options include archery, ax throwing, forest bathing and equine meditation. The outdoor adventure programming is designed to challenge guests to stretch their comfort zone, says
Simon Marxer, director of spa and well-being. “For example, our exclusive challenge course, High Wild Woosey, requires two guests to rely on each other as they move along a cable at 25 feet in the air. It asks (them) to overcome their obstacles as a collective and identify their communication strengths and weaknesses.” Not to mention, it’s really fun. They even offer farm and garden activities, such as chicken rearing and beekeeping. Now that’s something you don’t expect at a spa. It’s life-enhancing to try new things in a friendly, nonjudgmental environment.
WHAT NOT TO MISS: The October Mountain State Forest hike, a 2.5-mile up-and-back trek with woods and waterfalls.
Bonus: Many of the introductory-level activities, like fundamentals of kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding, are complimentary. GETTY IMAGES
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RHODE ISLAND | NATURE
Walking Little Rhody Explore spots even Ocean State residents might have missed By John Kostrzewa
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NATURAL INSPIRATION
HODE ISLAND MIGHT BE known as the Ocean
State, but there is plenty to enjoy beyond the beaches. If you’re sunburned or it’s a gray day, opt for a hike on some of the state’s out-of-theway trails to explore rivers, ponds and islands:
Maxwell Mays Wildlife Refuge, Coventry Artist and native son Maxwell Mays, known for painting historic scenes of Rhode Island, bequeathed 295 acres of wildlife habitat to the Audubon Society of Rhode Island, which created the Maxwell Mays Wildlife Refuge. It’s easy to understand how the artist was inspired by the land. There are streams feeding an 11-acre pond, a historic graveyard, a hilltop scattered with glacial boulders and the remains of a sheep and cattle farm on its rolling ridges. And you can have the park all to yourself after sunset if you rent Mays’ lakeside cabin from the Audubon Society. The cabin, which sleeps five, is available to rent from May through October.
Crossing the Pawcatuck River
FOLLOW THE RIVER Grills Preserve, Bradford The 544-acre Grills Preserve along the Pawcatuck River is run by the Westerly Land Trust. You’ll pass lagoons dug in the 1950s to hold water from the old textile and fabric dyeing mills — the first mills in the area date from the 1790s — and the remains of a 1665 farm. There’s also a historic cemetery where Clarke Hiscox, a Revolutionary War veteran, is buried. The quiet, well-marked trails through the natural beauty of the river, marshes and an old-growth forest of oak, elm and pine reward you with extensive views from the Big Hill. At 150 feet, it’s one of the highest points in Westerly. Note: There are 7 miles of short and long loops, including old farm lanes that are well maintained. Dogs allowed on leash.
SHANE M. BELANGER
Bluebirds at the Maxwell Mays Wildlife Refuge
Note: The refuge’s 3.3 miles of trails are mostly flat and well-marked. But there are some moderate climbs up ridges, and trails pass through wetlands. No dogs allowed.
JASON MAJOR
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RHODE ISLAND | NATURE
TRAIL TIPS Consider carrying these items, depending on the length and location of your walk: ▶ First-aid kit with adhesive and elastic bandages, sunscreen and insect repellent ▶ Map and compass ▶ Two liters of water in refillable bottles ▶ Pocket knife or multipurpose tool
▶ Extra socks and a windbreaker ▶ Protein bars or trail mix ▶ Whistle ▶ Flashlight or headlamp with extra batteries
EXPLORE DEEP WOODS
Breakheart Pond
Aquidneck Island
ISLAND GETAWAY Aquidneck Island, Narragansett Bay Newport isn’t the only attraction on Aquidneck Island. At the Aquidneck Land Trust you won’t be disappointed by the beautiful scenery or the history. Gentleman farms — owned in the late 1800s by the Vanderbilt and other Gilded Age families — stretch as far as the eye can see with gentle, green slopes leading to the Sakonnet River. The stone walls, farm lanes, cart paths, sweeping fields and other evidence of the land’s rich past are still visible while walking the Aquidneck Land Trust’s Sakonnet Greenway Trail. The greenway includes 10 miles of public trails that loop through woods, pastures and marshland and around a golf course, soccer fields and farms. There are many well-marked information kiosks and trailheads to enter the greenway. Note: The Sakonnet Greenway Trail is the longest trail, but there are shorter pathways that are just as beautiful. Dogs allowed on leash.
AQUIDNECK LAND TRUST
Stepstone Falls
Arcadia Management Area, Arcadia With thick stands of pine, beech and oak, the 14,000-acre Arcadia Management Area has some of the finest deep woods hikes in Rhode Island. There are more than 30 miles of maintained hiking trails, but Jeff Arnold, the district resource manager, recommends the 3-mile Mount Tom Trail — a rigorous stretch that traverses rivers, streams and woods. “You get a little bit of Rhode Island (topography) mixed into one trail,” says Arnold. The hike follows the Wood River, which winds through the dense forest. You might see fly fishermen casting for trout and downstream, canoeists and kayakers. Eventually, the trail leads to a rocky ridgeline offering great vistas. You’ll even find three stone thrones along the ridge, erected anonymously — a beautiful place to watch the sunset. Note: Wear sturdy footwear. Dogs allowed.
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CONNECTICUT | MYSTIC
Charles W. Morgan
MAKE A TRIP OF IT
Engine Room
Founded in 1929, Mystic Seaport Museum preserves America’s seafaring past. The 19-acre site includes a collection of more than 500 historic watercraft, including four National Historic Landmark vessels — most notably the 1841 whaling ship, Charles W. Morgan, America’s oldest commercial ship still in existence. Tour the workshops where those involved in manufacturing related to ship building and seafaring worked. Take a waterfront cruise aboard the U.S. Navy launch Liberty for a waterside view.
LINDA LABAN
Whale of a Time Seaport of Mystic is rich in food and history By Linda Laban
H Oyster Club LINDA LABAN
ISTORIC SEASIDE MYSTIC, CONN., has developed a din-
ing scene that’s repositioning the town as a buzzy coastal entertainment center. One of the newer restaurants is The Shipwright’s Daughter, located in The Whaler’s Inn, close to the famous drawbridge over the Mystic River. The chef embraces sustainability, zero waste, whole fish cookery and local and seasonal produce, all served in a room with picture windows overlooking the town’s main street and decorated with royal blue velveteen banquets and vintage oak flooring. Oyster Club, which focuses on serving local food and brews, has an open kitchen
where sweet Mystics and brinier Fishers Islands, the latter farmed in the Long Island Sound, are shucked. For outdoor dining, the restaurant boasts a multitiered deck where you can eat more sea-to-table dishes. On a sunny day, however, the patio at Engine Room is the place to be. Set in a former marine engine manufacturing building, this casual beer-centric place has a finely curated selection, including Connecticut’s Fat Orange Cat Brew Co.’s Baby Kittens IPA. While strolling around town, stop by Nana’s Bakery & Pizza, or go traditional at the Sea Swirl for fried clams and ice cream. And you can still stop by that famous pizza parlor inhabited by a young Julia Roberts in the film Mystic Pizza for your own slice of heaven.
Family owned since opening in 1973, Olde Mistick Village is a wonderland of unique shops and eateries. Wares vary from running gear store Kelley’s Pace, founded by 1957 Boston Marathon champion John Kelley, to the whimsical Alice in the Village, a Mad Hatter-themed tea shop.
The Whaler’s Inn has been operating for more than 125 years. Airy rooms feature double-sided fireplaces, and subway-tiled bathrooms have jetted tubs and robes to slip into. Continental breakfast — homemade scones with jam — at The Shipwright’s Daughter and Wi-Fi are included. Rooms start at $170 per night. Check state COVID-19 restrictions. Hilton Mystic has an indoor saline pool, and its open-air courtyard with gas-flamed fire pits and sofa seating is the place for drinks and bites. Rooms start at $89 per night, including Wi-Fi. MYSTIC SEAPORT MUSEUM; GETTY IMAGES
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NEW YORK | NEW YORK CITY
Hudson River Park
The High Line Domino Park PHOTOS BY GETTY IMAGES
Urban Renewal Discover green spaces amidst the Big Apple’s bustle By Deirdre van Dyk
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NE OF THE BEST things about New York City is its energy. The city and its residents always seem to be busy pushing forward. And during the last couple of decades, that desire for reinvention has transformed many of the city’s abandoned industrial sites — factories, piers and railroad tracks — into parks, giving its 8 million residents additional places to play and relax. As we contemplate reclaiming our lives and easing back into the world, take
some time to enjoy the ways New York has reimagined itself:
THE HIGH LINE Once a busy railroad line, then overgrown and largely forgotten for decades, the elevated tracks on Manhattan’s west side are now a park that runs from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District to Midtown’s West 34th Street. There are wildflower gardens, woodlands and you might find a video art installation or a movie being screened at an enclosed passage. Benches set up along the route allow visitors to enjoy unique
vantage points into abutting buildings or the streets below. At the Chelsea Market food court you can grab something to nosh on.
HUDSON RIVER PARK This 550-acre park contains playgrounds, promenades and sculptures, and its most southern point offers views of both the harbor and the Statue of Liberty. Walk along the Hudson River and you’ll find piers jutting into the water that no longer greet ships, but visitors who come to read, people-watch or enjoy the sunset. Try renting a bike and riding
the entire 4-mile stretch. You might just encounter a concert, salsa dance lessons or a group practicing tai chi.
DOMINO PARK This 5-acre park along the East River in Brooklyn was built at the site of a former Domino sugar refinery and opened up this stretch of waterfront for the first time in 160 years. More than 30 salvaged artifacts — including mooring bollards, cranes and syrup tanks — are spaced throughout the grounds and pay tribute to the workers who made sugar here for nearly 150 years. With impressive views of Manhattan’s skyline, there’s no work here now, just the option to play beach volleyball or bocce ball, cool off in fountains or explore the playground that takes kids through the basics of making sugar. Enjoy a bite to eat at Tacocina, a taco stand from the restaurant group that owns the chic Union Square Cafe.
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PENNSYLVANIA | PHILADELPHIA
Urban Love Let outdoor adventures fill your days
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OR AS LONG AS tourists have visited William Penn’s City of Brotherly Love,
Independence National Historical Park has been a focus of their attention — and rightly so, given that “America’s most historic square mile” is home to Independence Hall, Liberty Bell Center and Christ Church Burial Ground. But declare your independence and go a little farther afield to explore what USA TODAY’s 10Best readers selected as some of the best urban spaces in America.
FAIRMOUNT PARK CONSERVANCY
FAIRMOUNT PARK Encompassing more than 2,050 acres, Fairmount Park provides city residents and visitors with an expansive natural landscape to explore. Horseback riders, off-road cyclers and hikers will find miles of trails, while a 125-yearold trolley takes visitors on tours of the park’s many Colonial-era mansions. Kids love the many play areas, as well as the Philadelphia Zoo — America’s oldest.
RITTENHOUSE SQUARE William Penn, founder of Philadelphia, planned for five town squares when he designed the city in the 17th century. Rittenhouse Square, in the heart of the city’s most exclusive neighborhood, is the most popular. This tree-filled park is surrounded by some of Philly’s top restaurants, as well as high-end shopping and luxury apartments.
M. EDLOW/VISIT PHILADELPHIA
SCHUYLKILL RIVER TRAIL For a view of Philadelphia’s skyline, try the Schuylkill Banks Boardwalk, part of the Schuylkill River Trail. Pedestrians and cyclists can walk or ride along the river and take in the skyline from four different vantage points. If you’re feeling energetic, this trail extends more than 75 miles through five counties of historically rich southeastern Pennsylvania. One highlight is a 30-mile stretch from Philadelphia to Parker Ford, passing through Valley Forge National Historical Park along the way.
BARTRAM’S GARDEN This spot is considered one of Philadelphia’s best-kept secrets and one of the best places to try BARTRAM’S GARDEN urban kayaking. Bartram’s Garden offers a launch point with art installations along the Lower Schuylkill River with free rentals on Saturdays, giving members of the community a chance to get out on the water even if they don’t have their own kayak.
10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.
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PENNSYLVANIA | LEHIGH VALLEY
Past-Tense Travel Take a trip through time in Lehigh Valley
HUB WILSON
The Tannery, Luckenbach Mill and Springhouse are located in the Colonial Industrial Quarter of the historic Morovian district in Bethlehem, Pa.
By Lisa Elia More
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EHIGH VALLEY, SET AMONG
Pennsylvania’s lush landscape and gentle hills, offers throwbacks to a simpler time. And there are plenty of opportunities to stretch out and enjoy the outdoors in what was once America’s steel manufacturing mecca. “There is so much to see and do here, and that’s because we are a microcosm of the development of our country,” says Charlene Donchez Mowers, president of Historic Bethlehem Museum and Sites. One of the best ways to learn about that local history and soak in its natural beauty is to walk along the Delaware & Lehigh National Heritage Corridor. The
trail winds its way through about 140 miles of American industrial history, nature and recreation areas — 35 of which are within Lehigh Valley — and traverses local parks, state forests, farmland, historic boroughs and the three vibrant downtowns of Bethlehem, Easton and Allentown. One of the trail’s most historic areas is Easton’s Hugh Moore Park, which includes the National Canal Museum. The 520-acre park is home to the Josiah White II, a re-created canal boat pulled by two Percheron mules in the same manner as when such boats transported anthracite coal more than 100 years ago. The trail runs by the old Bethlehem CONTINUED
GETTY IMAGES
Forest, farmland and mountains make up the colorful landscape in Pennsylvania’s rural Lehigh Township.
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PENNSYLVANIA | LEHIGH VALLEY
FIG BETHLEHEM
The Historic Moravian Bethlehem complex sits on 14.7 acres of the original 18th-century community that served as the center of activities of the early American settlers.
GETTY IMAGES
The Manassas Guth Covered Bridge, a 129-foot-long single-span truss, was built in 1858 over Jordan Creek in Allentown, Pa.
Steel mill that has been repurposed as SteelStacks, an entertainment venue built amid five Gothic-looking blast furnaces. There are walking tours of the mill and Hoover Mason Trestle that was used to transport raw materials to the furnaces. Behind the Historic Hotel Bethlehem is the Colonial Industrial Quarter, where the Moravians, a Protestant group from today’s Czech Republic that settled in the area in 1741, made almost all of what they needed. The park has one of the largest and earliest concentrations of pre-industrial revolution craft and trade buildings in the country. For a nostalgic night, Lehigh Valley is home to two drive-ins. Movies first flickered onto the big screen at Shankweiler’s
Drive-In Theatre in Orefield in 1934 — making it the oldest in the country. Becky’s Drive-In Theatre in Walnutport opened in 1945, and is the county’s oldest drive-in run by the same family. Visitors can search online for self-guided covered bridge tours, which feature bridges built between 1839 and 1860 in a 50-mile trip that passes through some of the most picturesque farmland in Lehigh Valley. There are five wineries on Lehigh Valley’s Wine Trail, and the locally grown chambourcin grape is a French hybrid that produces red wine. Lisa Elia More writes for More Content Now, a division of the USA TODAY Network.
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NEW JERSEY | CUISINE
Ewedu (jute leaves) and begiri (bean soup)
Chicken tagine JENNA INTERSIMONE/MYCENTRALJERSEY.COM
CASABLANCA East Brunswick Using bold red, black and gold tones and lights imported from Morocco, owners Moussa Aitmoussa, a Moroccan native, and his wife, Catherine, created a cozy atmosphere and developed a menu from family recipes. This includes tagine, a meat and vegetable stew that is cooked over hot coals in Moroccan clay vessels and includes flavors of lemon, olives and raisins among ginger, saffron, turmeric and cinnamon. Moussa describes it as a full-flavored dish. “There is this myth that Moroccan food is spicy, but it’s actually more of a sweeter taste,” he says.
OLAIDE’S KITCHEN
Beyond the Diner Discover New Jersey’s international flavors USA TODAY NETWORK
W
HEN IT COMES TO food,
those who aren’t lucky enough to call New Jersey home might think the state is only good for pizza, bagels and sausage. But beyond the Parmigiana and pork roll is a world of cuisines
some might not expect — Ethiopian, Ghanaian, Nigerian, Moroccan, Caribbean, Southern and soul food. From the exotic — curried goat and spiced jollof rice — to the familiar — black-eyed peas and cornbread — the flavors and techniques may have been born an ocean away but they have melted into New Jersey’s culinary identity. Here are some of the restaurants cooking up the best:
OLAIDE’S KITCHEN Parlin Abigail Tella, manager of Olaide’s Kitchen, was born and raised in Nigeria before moving to the United States with her family — including her mother, Olaide Tella, owner and chef of Olaide’s Kitchen — and recalls how in Nigeria, when you saw a big pot of jollof rice, you knew there was going to be a party. At Olaide’s Kitchen, you can order jollof rice Nigerian-style, in which long-grain rice is cooked in a zesty tomato sauce with spices and herbs, or Ghanaian-style, which uses jasmine rice. “It has that smoky taste that everyone just loves. You question the authenticity if it doesn’t have that,” says Tella.
ADANECH ASGHEDOM
ADA’S GOJJO Asbury Park Adanech Asghedom’s restaurant is tethered to her native Ethiopia in every way, from the recipes she cooks to the spices in her kitchen. “There are 16 kinds of spices, but the main (ones) are called berbere and shiro,” says Asghedom. Berbere is a blend of chiles, garlic, fenugreek, allspice and cinnamon; shiro is made from lentils and chickpeas. The dish at the heart of Ethiopian cuisine is injera, a spongy flatbread that serves as both a bread and a utensil for scooping sauteed beef, chicken stewed in red pepper sauce and kik alitcha, which are turmeric-spiced split yellow peas. At her restaurant, Asghedom says, “Everything is from scratch, everything is fresh.”
Sarah Griesemer and Bob Makin write for the Asbury Park (N.J.) Press; Jenna Intersimone and Celeste E. Whittaker write for the (Cherry Hill, N.J.) Courier Post.
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DELAWARE | FOOD
State Dining Discover President Biden’s favorite Delaware treats
CLAYMONT STEAK SHOP Biden is known to celebrate his Claymont roots. Maybe he’s sending someone for takeout cheesesteaks from the original Claymont Steak Shop on Philadelphia Pike? If you stop by, you’ll spot several pictures on the wall alongside a note signed by the president.
GIANNI’S PIZZA Pizza is another of Biden’s go-to foods. In April 2019, after his early-morning announcement that he would run for president in 2020, he dropped into Gianni’s Pizza in Trolley Square for a few slices.
By Patricia Talorico
T
HOUGH THE 46TH PRESIDENT was born in Pennsylvania, he’s lived in Delaware since he was a teenager, moving to Claymont and later to Wilmington. When he became senator, he raised his children there, commuting home each night from Washington, D.C. You can sample a few of the president’s regular haunts in and around the state’s urban hub, including one restaurant he’s been loyal to since high school:
PICCOLINA TOSCANA
PROVIDED BY PICCOLINA TOSCANA
The Bidens have been known to frequent Piccolina Toscana in Trolley Square. Owner Dan Butler even catered daughter Ashley Biden’s 2012 wedding reception at the Bidens’ Greenville home. The meal — fresh tomatoes, arugula and house-made mozzarella, seared salmon and quinoa, and roasted chicken breast with grilled vegetables — included penne with pomodoro sauce made especially for the then-vice president. “Joe always eats pasta when he comes to Toscana,” says Butler.
JACQUELYN MARTIN/ASSOCIATED PRESS
CHARCOAL PIT A longtime Biden haunt is the Charcoal Pit, known for its award-winning burgers. The president has been going to the original location on Concord Pike since his Archmere Academy high school days for milkshakes, grilled cheese sandwiches and cheesesteaks.
CAPRIOTTI’S SANDWICH SHOP The president’s favorite Capriotti’s sandwich is the Bobbie (also known as Thanksgiving on a roll). The restaurant has locations around the country, but Biden has been a patron of the flagship store on Wilmington’s Union Street for more than 40 years. And, yes, in Delaware they are called subs, not hoagies.
BARDEA FOOD & DRINK The president and first lady have both dined in and picked up takeout from Bardea Food & Drink in downtown Wilmington, a James Beard Award semifinalist. Owners Scott Stein and Antimo DiMeo say they’ve tried to entice Biden with some of their modern Italian dishes, but the president has simple tastes. DiMeo instead has made him a special off-the-menu dish of spaghetti and meatballs.
RICHARD VERNICK
Patricia Talorico writes for the (Wilmington, Del.) News Journal.
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EXPECT MORE. GET MORE. ENJOY MORE.
Want to pack as much fun as possible into your long-overdue vacation? The BWI/Arundel Mills region is the perfect place to start. Just minutes from Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and historic Annapolis, it’s the ideal place for kicking off a new chapter of life’s adventures. Enjoy gaming, shopping, hiking, biking, and family fun before heading to the Sailing Capital of America for a Chesapeake Bay adventure. Ready to explore Charm City or our nation’s Capital? Go for it. Cash in your winnings and go shopping before calling it a day at one of the area’s many hotels.
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MARYLAND | CHESAPEAKE BAY
Serene St. Michaels This Eastern Shore town is a great place to experience Maryland
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum SHORE STUDIOS/CHESAPEAKE BAY MARITIME MUSEUM
By Tracy Scott Forson
N
ESTLED ALONG THE EASTERN Shore in Talbot County,
St. Michaels is a quintessential Maryland town that seamlessly mixes American history, coastal culture and some of the state’s signature attractions — specifically, shoreline and seafood. Just a few hours drive from Washington, D.C., (about 80 miles) or Philadelphia (122 miles), St. Michaels sits serenely on the Chesapeake Bay and is a whole world away from its more boisterous Delmarva Peninsula sibling, Ocean City. The town’s colonial history is evident from the moment you arrive. Established as a trading post in the mid-1600s, many
of today’s businesses reside inside buildings reminiscent of 17th-century homes. What the intimate settings lack in square footage, they make up for in charm, lending themselves to conversations with fellow customers and owners, like Fran Neaton, general manager of American Holiday home furnishings. Neaton opened the décor store eight years ago, and has since expanded her footprint to include two more St. Michaels shops, Knotty Living and A Little Knotty. As in other nearby boutiques, visitors can find unique clothing, home accessories, artwork and jewelry made by local artisans. “We have several art galleries, and most of our shops have art from local and regional artists,” says Kimberly Weller,
communications manager for the town. Hopkins Original Art on Talbot Street, one of the town’s main strips, sells sketches, paintings and prints by Maryland artist Ryan Hopkins, who owns the store with his wife, Susan. “St. Michaels is perfect for us — small and intimate,” says Susan, whose store mimics the area’s carefree vibe. The artwork, including coastal images of horizons and crustaceans, also reflects the region. The gallery opened five years ago, and before long, the Hopkinses added a new attraction in the back for music lovers: a room of records. “In the ’80s, (Ryan) started collecting vinyl records. We had more than 3,000. The store has a back room that’s pretty
large. We put in a record player and speakers, and people come and dance,” Susan explains. “You have to leave happier because it’s art and music. There’s no stress here.” Through September, one of the town’s most popular attractions, the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum (CBMM), is featuring the artwork of another Marylander, David Harp, whose photos of the bay’s people and places occupy the upper level of the museum’s Steamboat Building. Cranes, crabs, catchers, kayaks, coastlines and canals tell the story of life along the Eastern Shore. The museum’s permanent exhibits include its Hooper Strait Lighthouse, an CONTINUED
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MARYLAND | CHESAPEAKE BAY 1879 structure that visitors can climb to experience how keepers once lived. It was originally stationed in the middle of the bay, but now watches over the waters from the shores of the CBMM. Outdoor exhibits include the Floating Fleet of historic vessels, the waterman’s wharf crab shanty and the reconstructed Mitchell House, the home of abolitionist Frederick Douglass’ sister, Eliza Bailey Mitchell: Both resided in St. Michaels as slaves. See real skipjacks, kayaks and other boats in the At Play on the Bay building and in the Small Boat Shed. For vehicles of another kind, there’s the Classic Motor Museum, which features a rotating exhibit of 20 memorable automobiles, including a 1910 International Harvester and a 1925 Model-T. Executive director Sarah Reichard says motoring is a big part of the history and culture of the area. “As soon as that (Chesapeake) Bay Bridge opened up in the ’50s, people just immediately started touring and taking motor days. It became a destination area for that,” she says. In addition to displaying and preserving classic vehicles, the museum hosts a student chapter of the Antique Automobile Club of America. “Students come in here two weekends of the month and just learn how things are working,” says Reichard. There’s also a scholarship fund for high school graduates going into fields related to automobiles and financial support for teens who can’t afford driver’s education, she explains. “We’ll have a lot more, hopefully, opportunities to do things like that.” Maryland has a few iconic state activities: Driving across the Bay Bridge is one; picking steamed, Old Bay-seasoned crabs by the sea is another. Visitors have plenty of opportunities to take part in this culinary experience in St. Michaels. Steps from the CBMM, the Crab Claw sits on the shore, offering outdoor dining of fresh seafood, burgers, chicken wings and other fare. Grab a cocktail or a beer and enjoy the view from the patio. If crustaceans aren’t your thing, Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar is a popular alternative, serving custom-made, brick oven baked pies. The wide variety of menu options includes a meatball appetizer, the meatless Mediterranean pie and a turkey club sandwich. Sit at the bar, on the patio or inside where you may see your order pulled straight from the oven. Limoncello Italian Restaurant & Wine Bar also comes highly recommended by locals. Dine on risotto di manzo made with filet mignon tips, caramelized onions, wild mushrooms and gorgonzola or the vegetar-
Classic Motor Museum TRACY SCOTT FORSON
LYON RUM
ian penne norma, made with eggplant. To quench your thirst, Weller recommends visiting the “trifecta of booze” at the town’s historic mill. At Lyon Rum, CEO and founder Jaime Windon sells flights that serve as a gateway to purchasing full bottles of her awardwinning varieties, including the popular, more traditional dark rum and the distinct, seasonal pineapple rum. Nearby is Eastern Shore Brewing, the oldest brewery in the region, where customers can enjoy a cold one while playing a game of hook-and-ring toss
or foosball. For those who prefer pinot over pale ales, St. Michaels Winery offers a citrusy, medium-bodied pinot gris and red wine options, including malbec and merlot. “We opened our tasting room in the Old Mill district of St. Michaels and started producing our first three wines,” says Lindsay Greenwood, marketing and events director for the winery. “We have expanded that listing over the years and take pride in the fact that we have wines for every palate.” During summer months, St. Michaels’
TRACEY FINCH JOHNS
waters become a hub of activity, including kayaking and paddleboarding, and on land, there are trails for hiking and biking. It’s common to see people sitting in Adirondack chairs that dot the yards of bed-and-breakfast inns, and tour cruises speckling the waters. “What I believe makes us unique is the incredible quality and variety you will find here and the beauty of our teenytiny historic waterfront town of under 1 square mile,” says Keller. “It is truly an escape from the hustle of people’s lives in the cities near to us.”
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WASHINGTON, D.C. | OUTDOORS
Enjoy Nature in the Nation’s Capital Vote for open-air fun in Washington, D.C.
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OU’RE NO DOUBT FAMILIAR with the mall that runs from the
Washington Monument to the U.S. Capitol, but the District of Columbia has more public spaces to explore after you’ve enjoyed the Lincoln Memorial and the reflecting pool. Elect to explore some of USA TODAY’s 10Best candidates:
TASOS KATOPODIS/GETTY IMAGES
BLACK LIVES MATTER PLAZA The section of 16th Street in front of Lafayette Square and across from the White House had been a gathering place in the nation’s capital long before it was officially named Black Lives Matter Plaza in 2020. While the space remains a site for political activism, it’s also used for numerous community events, including movie nights, yoga sessions and dance classes.
DESTINATION DC
POTOMAC RIVER Locals know you don’t have to leave the city to enjoy a day out on the water, at least not with this urban waterway. Rent a kayak from one of seven boathouses with access to the river and you can see the Washington Monument, John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts and the beautiful Georgetown waterfront. Paddle to the Tidal Basin for even more sightseeing, including the Jefferson Memorial, or do as Washingtonians do, and paddle upriver to see a surprisingly wild section of the Potomac. You’d never guess you were smack in the seat of power.
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
CHESAPEAKE & OHIO CANAL Mules once pulled boats along this waterway. Now bikers, hikers and joggers can travel the dirt towpath for 184.5 miles to Cumberland, Md. The historic canal, commonly known as the C&O, begins in Georgetown and runs next to the Potomac. As you walk along the canal, houses fade from view, allowing you to feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
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ROCK CREEK PARK The 1,754-acre park was the third national park designated by the federal government. These days Rock Creek attracts locals and visitors to the northwest part of the city with a series of recreational trails, Smithsonian’s National Zoo, a working gristmill, nature center, planetarium, tennis courts and a golf course. Reserve a picnic spot online to cook out, or pick up sandwiches from local favorites Bread Furst or Little Red Fox.
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VIRGINIA | SOUTHWEST
The Other Virginia Natural wonders stun in this less-visited region of the state
Sand Cave, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park
Story and photography by Erin Gifford
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OR MANY, VIRGINIA CONJURES
up images of the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah Valley, the wide 3-mile stretch of boardwalk at Virginia Beach or the stately presidential homesteads of Monticello and Mount Vernon. Few envisage sandstone slot canyons, an ice-cold aquamarine swimming hole or free-roaming ponies stationed alongside the iconic Appalachian Trail.
Yet, this is also Virginia — southwest Virginia — the less-trafficked section of the state that’s unlike what most experience motoring along its heavily traveled highways, Interstate 95 and I-81. “Southwest Virginia is a mecca of outdoor recreation in a setting that is not overcrowded or overused,” says David Woodard, executive director at Heart of Appalachia Tourism Authority in St. Paul, Va. “There’s a sacred serenity that seems to recharge and reinvigorate visitors.” Here are five must-see stops to experience on your next visit:
STOP #1: SAND CAVE Located on the far east side of Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, a remote trailhead in Ewing draws in curious hikers for a nearly 4-mile ascent along dirt trails to reach the Sand Cave. It’s a remarkable geological formation deep within a verdant forest. The 250-foot-wide half-domed Sand Cave was once a massive sandstone rock, which the wind eroded over millions of years. A stunning acre of beachlike sand inside a wondrous rock cave resulted. From this same trail, scramble to the top of White Rocks — wide sandstone cliffs used as a guidepost for westward settlers in the late 1700s. From here, it’s about a 15-mile drive to Wilderness Road State Park for a chance to greet a small herd of mighty buffalo, much like those that once carved a migratory trace through the Cumberland Gap.
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VIRGINIA | SOUTHWEST STOP #3: BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK Once you’ve dried off and warmed up, make the 70-mile drive to Breaks Interstate Park, a breathtaking natural wonder that straddles Virginia and Kentucky. The mountainous 4,500-acre state park is home to Breaks Canyon, the “Grand Canyon of the South.” This 5-mile-long gorge was formed by the once-tumultuous Russell Fork River, causing a break in Pine Mountain. At 1,650 feet, it claims to be the deepest gorge on the East Coast. Spend the night at the park’s 77-room mountain lodge. From here, it’s a short walk to Towers Overlook for postcard-perfect views of the Hershey’s Kiss-shaped rock formation within the Russell Fork River. In the morning, more than a dozen hiking trails await, yielding unrivaled access to the park’s geological wonderland. Rock scrambles, small caves, hidden springs and cliff overhangs mesmerize outdoor adventurers. Hike into the gorge along the Camp Branch Trail to be awed from below by the park’s crown jewel, The Towers.
STOP #2: DEVIL’S BATHTUB The curiously named Devil’s Bathtub is your next stop. About 50 miles from Sand Cave, Devil’s Bathtub has been attracting visitors for years, if only to dip their toes in the crystal-clear basin. Be warned: It’s really cold. As in, no warmer than 65 degrees in the unwavering heat of summer. It’s difficult not to be curious about the name. According to Pam Cox, director of tourism for Explore Scott County, it’s purportedly called Devil’s Bathtub because it’s the “only water cold enough to squelch the fires of hell.” At the very least, it makes a good story and draws visitors into the county. Of course, it’s shaped like a large bathtub, too. That’s cool on its own. The basin fills with waters from the Devil’s Fork of Big Stony Creek in Jefferson National Forest. Just ahead of the bathtub itself is an overflowing waterfall and a swimming hole. Even better, there are two rope swings. In summer, it’s a true oasis.
STOP #5: GRAYSON HIGHLANDS STATE PARK
STOP #4: THE GREAT CHANNELS Slot canyons are legendary in the American West. In Channels State Forest, a winding 3-mile ascent along the rugged Brumley Mountain Trail guides inquisitive visitors to the Great Channels, a captivating labyrinth of slot canyons set atop craggy Clinch Mountain. The secluded nature preserve, about 45 miles from Breaks Interstate Park, is best known for its peculiar slot canyons. The 20-acre sandstone maze was likely created some 10,000 years ago by permafrost and ice wedging, which formed large crevices that began as negligible cracks in the soft sandstone. The otherworldly slot canyons deserve more than a cursory exploration. Come prepared to climb gigantic sandstone formations, squeeze through narrow passages and duck under exposed overhangs. Onerous obstacles and irksome dead ends confound even the most directionally confident explorers.
From the Great Channels, it’s a 77-mile drive to ogle wild ponies at Grayson Highlands State Park. Yes, free-roaming brown and white ponies clip-clop across this pristine park. They are most often seen at Wilburn Ridge and live year-round at elevations of 4,000 feet and higher. It’s a short hike to Wilburn Ridge by way of the Appalachian Trail. Consider an overnight stay. Grayson Highlands is a backpacker’s paradise. It’s hike-in tent camping only. No super-size RVs or travel trailers permitted. There are also four primitive yurts. As in, no electricity, water, heat or air conditioning. Or, for an amenity-rich cabin rental, book an Airbnb just minutes from the park. While ponies reign supreme at Grayson Highlands, the state park is also home to two of Virginia’s tallest peaks, Big Pinnacle and Little Pinnacle, accessed by way of the Twin Pinnacles Trail. Since Grayson Highlands is already at a relatively high elevation, the overall gain on this hike is less than 250 feet for seriously spectacular views. From here, it’s a 175-mile drive to Knoxville, Tenn., or about 350 miles up I-81 to Washington, D.C. Savor the sweet memories of Southwest Virginia, but don’t tell too many people about this wonderland. It’s worth keeping as a secret.
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WEST VIRGINIA | MAIN STREETS
Small Towns, Big Appeal Full of charm, history and adventure, these Mountain State destinations await exploration
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HESE TOWNS MIGHT BE small in population, but they’re big on everthing else: They’re all finalists in USA TODAY’s 10Best Readers’ Choice awards in 2020 for burgs with the most interesting history, lively food scenes, local crafts and outdoor adventures. Exploring these four destinations is a fun and affordable way to dive into West Virginia’s natural beauty:
WILLIAM SHERMAN/ISTOCK
BERKELEY SPRINGS About 100 miles from the D.C./ Baltimore area, Berkeley Springs is worlds away from big-city bustle. Visitors discovered the power of this mountain enclave’s natural warm springs ages ago and have been coming ever since, seeking relaxation and rejuvenation. You can still spend time at centuriesold baths at Berkeley Springs State Park, but myriad modern options abound, as well, along with lovely inns, restaurants, shops and cultural events.
LEWISBURG Downtown Lewisburg boasts a lively food scene morning, noon and night. Grab a sweet treat from Amy’s Cakes and Cones, pick up some baked goods, soups or salads from Corn + Flour, tuck into a steak at Food & Friends or enjoy brick oven pizza in a relaxed atmosphere at Hill and Holler. MOLLY WOLFF PHOTOGRAPHY/ISTOCK
FAYETTEVILLE Offering world-class adventures right at its doorstep thanks to its proximity to the New River Gorge, the nation’s newest national park, Fayetteville is a must for thrill-seekers. “This charming gateway leads to rafting, rapelling, zip lining, horseback riding and other river adventures,” explains 10Best local expert Chelle Koster Walton.
SHEPHERDSTOWN You won’t find many chain stores lining the streets of historic Shepherdstown but you will find a collection of locally owned and independently operated specialty boutiques stocking items like vinyl records, midcentury antiques, pet-care products, dance apparel, housewares, books and clothing.
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NEW LOOK | BRETTON WOODS, N.H.
OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT
Quarantine Transformation Historic resort spent lockdown revamping and expanding By Linda Laban
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HEN THE COUNTRY WENT
into lockdown last year due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Omni Mount Washington
Resort went into renovation mode, reconfiguring the main dining room, adding a new wing and building a lodge and gondola, all welcome additions to one of the few remaining Victorian-era resorts in the White Mountains. Surrounded by 800,000 acres of White
Mountain National Forest, the Bretton Woods, N.H., resort has a storied history — first opening its doors in the summer of 1902, with a white Italianate exterior and interior halls of Gilded Age splendor. It was a pinnacle of achievement for its owner, Joseph Stickney, a Concord, N.H., native,
who made his fortune in the Pennsylvania coal and railroad industries. The hotel hosted a 1944 conference where 44 countries signed the Bretton Woods agreement, creating the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank. The document was signed in the hotel’s Gold Room, near the grand ballroom. In its early days, in addition to world leaders, the hotel drew wealthy city dwellers exchanging urban summer heat and smog for cool breezes, clean air and spectacular views. The resort has remained in demand today for families and for destination weddings. To modernize meal time, the hotel reconfigured the main dining room, keeping its original elaborate moldings, which were painstakingly re-etched, while adding a white marble-topped 18-foot square bar in the middle of the room. Banquettes surround the bar, and dining tables fan out along the windows on one side. On the other, sitting areas with settees and a newly installed fireplace create a cozy atmosphere. The hotel’s continued popularity demanded the expansion of its Presidential Wing, adding 69 guest rooms and suites decorated with gray tartan wallpaper accent walls, private balconies and bathrooms with soaking tubs and separate showers. On the wing’s rooftop is the Jewell Terrace, an outdoor deck facing Mount Washington (the Northeast’s highest peak) which includes a small Astroturf patch for lawn games and lounge space as well as the Observatory Bar. The resort also added the 16,000-square-foot Rosebrook Lodge, a dining and event space perched above Bretton Woods. The three-tiered building with curved lines and walls of windows looks out onto the Presidential Mountains and Mount Washington. A 12-minute ride on the Bretton Woods Skyway gondola delivers visitors to the lodge to dine or just admire the view.
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