GO ESCAPE SUMMER 2020 by STUDIO Gannett

DISCOVER IDYLLIC ISLAND GEMS

SUMMER 2020

etaway PERFECT PLACES TO EAT, PLAY, LOVE REV UP THE RV & GO CAMPING

RICH, CULTURAL DESTINATIONS

2020

TRAVEL LIKE AN OLYMPIAN

HOTEL X

Hotels offer elite workout options

2020

FEATURES DESTINATION TRANSFORMATIONS Historic venues get innovative makeovers

CAMPING REDEFINED

CREATIVE CONCESSIONS

Minor league ballparks offer major flavor

UP FRONT 7

10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 28 32

RV parks are upping their game

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR PACK YOUR BAGS LISTEN UP GET IN GEAR FASHION FORWARD CATCH A LIFT TRIP INSURANCE PACKING A PET ESCAPE ARTIST VOTING MATTERS BASEBALL LEGENDS

REGIONS

DESTINATIONS

n NORTHEAST 62 Rob Thomas’

n MEXICO 144 Eat, play and love

64 66 70 72 78

Westchester, N.Y. Remembering Rosa Parks New York for film lovers Maine’s unspoiled charm Sweet treats in New England Visit great estates

at these locales

n CANADA 148 Take in Toronto’s many museums

n EUROPE 152 Inn-to-inn hiking

n SOUTHEAST 80 Scott Hamilton’s

n CARIBBEAN 156 Under-the-radar

82 89 92 96

n ONE FOR THE ROAD 160 Welcoming White Sands

Nashville, Tenn. Civil rights landmarks New Orleans for families Camp on Florida’s beaches Discover Hattiesburg, Miss.

discoveries

n MIDWEST 100 Mason Crosby’s 102 106 110

Green Bay, Wis. Charming Mackinac, Mich. Wisconsin creameries Visit the Mount Rushmore State

114

Ohio’s Donut Trail delights

n WEST 118 Danielle Leoni’s Phoenix 120 Fort Worth, Texas, on foot 122 Explore Zion National Park 126 Feast on fried chicken 128 New museum honors First Americans

ON THE COVER:

Outer Banks, N.C. PHOTOGRAPHY:

Getty Images

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n PACIFIC 130 Jeannie Mai’s San Jose, Calif. 132 Satisfy the need for speed 136 Seattle’s parks shine 138 Cheers to California’s coast 140 Alaska by rail

156 All prices and availability are subject to change.

GETTY IMAGES (2): NEGRO LEAGUES BASEBALL MUSEUM: DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY

FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS PREMIUM PUBLICATION EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes jbstokes@usatoday.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com

Sarasota, Fla.-based freelance writer and fitness enthusiast Kristen Seymour gets her beach and water sports fix year-round, which is why the idea of a European hiking adventure (page 152) sounds like the most perfect getaway imaginable. Her biggest challenge is choosing which country to trek — and deciding between a self-guided or full-service tour.

A citizen of Boston’s Red Sox Nation, travel writer Diane Bair hadn’t strayed beyond Fenway Park fare until researching her story on quirky ballpark eats (page 54). And if the game-day snack includes a local element, “Bring it on!” she says. Boston also inspired her story on destination transformations (page 42); the city’s old jail is now a swanky hotel.

MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington mjwashington@usatoday.com ISSUE EDITOR Debbie Williams ISSUE DESIGNER Gina Toole Saunders EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Tracy Scott Forson Harry Lister Megan Pannone Deirdre van Dyk DESIGNERS Hayleigh Corkey David Hyde Debra Moore Lisa M. Zilka CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Matt Alderton, Diane Bair, Susan B. Barnes, Brian Barth, Lici Beveridge, Anna Katherine Clemmons, Ana Connery, Lisa Davis, Christopher Elliott, Allison Entrekin, Erin Gifford, Kristine Hansen, Diana Lambdin Meyer, Nneka Okona, David Oliver, Rina Rapuano, Cheryl Rodewig, Robin Roenker, Kristen A. Schmitt, Sarah Sekula, Kristen Seymour, Jen Rose Smith, Sandy Smith, Corinne Whiting, Pamela Wright, Amy Wu

ADVERTISING

PROVIDED BY THE CONTRIBUTORS

VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914 pburke@usatoday.com

Matt Alderton is a Chicagobased journalist who has a soft spot for doughnuts where his abs are supposed to be. He therefore jumped at the chance to write about Ohio’s Donut Trail (page 114). And because those sweet treats are a staple of his travel diet, he made the wise decision to write about hotels that help you keep fit while on the road (page 36).

Journalist Lisa Davis is the former editor of Frequent Flyer magazine. For this issue, she explores lesser-known Caribbean islands that are worth a visit (page 156) and interviews Phoenix chef Danielle Leoni about her favorite local haunts (page 118). Between trips, Davis lives in Chicago with her beloved dogs, Boo and Blanca.

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Vanessa Salvo | (703) 854-6499 vsalvo@usatoday.com

FINANCE BILLING COORDINATOR Julie Marco Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved herein, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or reproduced in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the written consent of USA TODAY. The editors and publisher are not responsible for any unsolicited materials.

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR | UP FRONT

Fisher Towers Trail, Moab, Utah

Dear Readers

MADELEINE WILLIAMS

THE OUTBREAK OF and response to COVID-19 has affected our lives, our livelihoods and our economy at the local, national and global level. And it has had a profound effect on the travel industry. As we grapple with the unprecedented scope of this pandemic, many events, festivals and celebrations have been suspended or canceled. However, across the country, businesses that provide lodging, food and transportation are starting to reopen with varied stipulations and baseline measures in place that aim to reduce the risk of spreading the virus. The USA TODAY Network is committed to providing timely, engaging and accurate informa-

tion in our coverage, but given the evolving nature of this health crisis, we realize that there will undoubtedly be changes to the accessibility of many of the locations and services mentioned throughout this magazine. Please check with businesses and venues for the latest updates. We also know that the travel and tourism industry is resilient. It has rebounded from natural disasters, economic recessions and other crises before, and while this pandemic is uncharted

territory, it is our hope that all national and international exploration will resume soon. In the meantime, we will continue to look beyond today and provide you with the amazing sights, sounds, tastes and experiences that await.

Debbie Williams Issue Editor

| GO ESCAPE

UP FRONT I N T H E N O W, I N T H E K N O W

PRODUCTS 10

| ADVICE 18

EVENTS 28

SUN 'N STYLE

GETTY IMAGES

Pack your bags with the latest fun and functional travel fashion trends (page 16).

UP FRONT | PRODUCTS

Pack a Punch Carry it all in style with these options BY SARAH SEKULA

WHY TRAVEL WITH a boring bag when you can carry one that makes a statement? These suitcases, weekenders and totes are all jam-packed with functionality as well as personality.

ARLO SKYEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ZIPPER CARRY-ON MAX has bold style, plus an exterior

pocket for easy access to your laptop and snacks. u$375, arloskye.com

The CUYANA TRIPLE ZIPPER WEEKENDER is

The LIZZY NATURAL STRIPE BY POOLSIDE has a flat bottom to keep your belongings upright. u$225, wearepoolside.com

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made from 100 percent Turkish cotton canvas and Italian leather. u$285, cuyana.com

PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES

The PARAVEL AVIATOR CARRY-ON PLUS has vegan leather details, wrapped steel handles and a removable accessories pouch. u$275, tourparavel.com

Lightweight and stylish, THE LARGE BY AWAY

suitcase is designed to last for life. u$295, awaytravel.com

The LULUS JUST BEACHY navy blue and beige fringe tote bag has sidewall compartments for extra storage. u$58, lulus.com With stretch zipper zones and dual compartment organization, BURTON’S WHEELIE FLIGHT DECK BAG fits a surprising amount of gear. uStarting at $155, burton.com

Made from soft leather, OOSTOR’S ARCHIE’S DUFFLE in classic tan is just the right size for a weekend away. uApproximately $270, oostor.com

INCASE’S EO ROLLER is a

soft-sided carry-on with a tech compartment and weather-resistant coating. u$299.95, incase.com

The water-repellent LULULEMON OUT OF RANGE 20L BACKPACK has side pockets for your water bottle and an exterior padded pocket for a laptop. u$148, lululemon.com

UP FRONT | PRODUCTS

Travel Tunes Pump up the jams on the go BY SARAH SEKULA

MUSIC MAKES EVERYTHING in life better, and a good set of headphones or earbuds can make your time on a train or plane or walking around a new city more enjoyable. Tune in to your favorite playlist or podcast with one of these options:

APPLE’S AIRPODS PRO

in-ear headphones adapt to the geometry of your ear, and you can get one hour of listening time by charging the AirPods for just five minutes. u$249, apple.com

Acoustically designed for the 55-plus crowd, ZVOX’S AV50 NOISE-CANCELING HEADPHONES are perfect

BROSKI’S LETY

BEATS BY DRE’S POWERBEATS PRO are sweat- and water-

resistant and stay put thanks to the adjustable ear hooks. u$249.95, beatsbydre.com

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noise-canceling headphones have deep bass resonance, dual-axis cups, leather padding and a dynamic audio range. u$149.99, broskisound.com

GETTY IMAGES: PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES

for a plane or train ride when you need peace and quiet. u$149.99, zvox.com

ONEPLUS BULLETS WIRELESS 2 HEADPHONES are sweat-

The durable over-ear wireless EDIFIER W820BT BLUETOOTH HEADPHONES are designed

proof, have 14 hours of playback time and offer Google assistant. u$99, oneplus.com

for all-day listening. u$59.99, edifier.com

SAMSUNG GALAXY BUDS+ offer up to 11 hours

BOSE’S HEADPHONES 700

have 11 different levels of noise cancellation, a battery life of up to 20 hours and are enabled with Bose AR, a first-of-its-kind audio augmented-reality platform. u$399.95, bose.com

With up to 24 total hours of battery life, SONY’S WF1000XM3 WIRELESS NOISECANCELING HEADPHONES

offer hands-free calling. u$199.99, sony.com

of battery life on a single charge, and with enhanced ambient sound settings, you can control how much surrounding noise you hear. u$149.99, samsung.com

TREBLAB’S Z2 HEADPHONES are made of high-end, ultrasoft materials that mold to the natural shape of your ear. u$89.97, treblab.com

UP FRONT | PRODUCTS

Wander-Musts Travel accessories for every adventure BY KRISTEN SEYMOUR

WHETHER YOU’RE SETTING off on an epic journey or just getting away for the weekend, these goodies and gadgets are the key to smooth sailing:

Kick jet lag to the curb with this memory foam HIGH SIERRA HOODED TRAVEL PILLOW that blocks out light and offers neck support. u$14.99, amazon.com

When attached to the back-seat tray table, this DIFFLIFE ADJUSTABLE AIRPLANE FOOT REST allows your feet to hang separately, making it possible to feel totally comfortable — even in a middle seat. u$13.99, amazon.com

Stay safe from the sun with this TSA-approved, reef-friendly, COOLA ORGANIC MINERAL SUNCARE TRAVEL KIT.

u$40, coola.com

With this WORLDWIDE 1875 WATT ADAPTER AND CONVERTER KIT,

Free your hands without letting go of your luggage using SAMSONITE’S ADD A BAG STRAP, which secures a second bag to your upright carry-on (and packs away easily when not in use). u$7, samsonite.com

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Don’t settle for boring when you can have a bright reusable water bottle, like the ones in the new COLOR PLAY

COLLECTION BY S’WELL.

uStarting at $35, swell.com

PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES

plugging in your musthave devices will be a cinch. u$29.99, bedbathandbeyond.com

Focus on the trends that matter to you.

Download our free app. My Topics lets you choose the news you want to know about, when you want to know about it.

UP FRONT | PRODUCTS

Smart Style Hot looks for your holiday

Protect your eyes and elevate your outfit with MAUI JIM’S

BY KRISTEN SEYMOUR

ADRIFT POLARIZED SUNGLASSES.

u$479.99, mauijim.com PACKING FOR YOUR next getaway just got a whole lot simpler. These stylish finds seamlessly blend fashion with function:

Lightweight and breathable, the OLUKAI LAE‘AHI LĪ MENS SNEAKERS offer cushioned comfort.

u$110, olukai.com

This MAMMUT TOKYO LONGSLEEVE SHIRT features high-

Made of tough and crushable paper straw weave, this SUNDAY AFTERNOONS HAVANA HAT keeps its shape after being packed, has internal adjustable sizing and offers UPF 50+. u$19.99 to $34, amazon.com

GO ESCAPE | SUMMER 2020

ANATOMIE’S LIGHTWEIGHT KENYA SAFARI JACKET is as luxurious as it is functional, with

wrinkle-free, quick-drying, durable fabric. u$378, anatomie.com

Compression knit is structured in M.M. LAFLEUR’S THE SHAW PANT, resulting in a cropped silhouette that looks as flawless as it feels. u$195, mmlafleur.com

PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES

quality materials and laser-cut details to provide ventilation. u$215, mammut.com

With a brightly striped UNDERWIRE BIKINI TOP AND HIGH-WAISTED BOTTOMS FROM J.CREW, you’ll be ready

to pop into any pool party. uTop $59.50, bottoms $49.50, jcrew.com

Lightweight, breathable and wrinkle-resistant, the stylish and versatile YANNI COOL-LITE TANK MIDI DRESS can go from a day of sightseeing to a night of dancing without missing a beat. u$130, icebreaker.com

These VUORI AIM PANTS have a stretchy fit and are made of quick-dry material. u$89, vuoriclothing.com

Perfectly breezy over everything from blouses to bikinis, the RIP CURL WOMEN’S PALM READER KIMONO is a simple way to elevate your vacay look. u$29.99 to $59.95, amazon.com

Perfect for posh pool parties and beach bashes alike, these J.CREW SEERSUCKER TRUNKS are an easy addition that you won’t want to leave home without. u$69.50, jcrew.com

UP FRONT | ADVICE

Catch a Lift Keep these ride-sharing tips in mind when you travel

WHEN YOU’RE AT home and heading out to a restaurant, concert or museum, you might think nothing of hiring an Uber or Lyft. But if you’re vacationing in an unfamiliar area, here are some things to keep in mind to ensure a smooth ride:

GO ESCAPE | SUMMER 2020

GETTY IMAGES

BY AMY SINATRA AYRES

SAFETY Uber and Lyft emphasize the importance of safety, no matter where you are. The services recommend checking to confirm the car you’re getting into matches the license plate, car make and model and driver profile that are displayed in the app for your ride. “In the U.S. and Canada, passengers have the option of supplying a PIN code to their driver to verify that it is the right vehicle. Always ask the driver to confirm your name before getting in the car,” says Laura Jones, head of product marketing at Uber. Both services give you the option to share your location with family and friends. “In some cases, if we notice the ride has stopped too soon or for an unusual amount of time, riders will hear from Lyft,” says Lyft spokeswoman Dana Davis. “We’ll ask if you need support, and if necessary, we’ll give the option to request emergency assistance.”

AIRPORT USE Many airports now have designated areas where ride-share services pick up their passengers, and the services will let you know where to go. “At most airports, the Uber app will provide specific pickup instructions — like terminal and door number — to you and the driver to ensure a seamless pickup experience. We’ve also begun introducing PIN technology at several airport pickup locations, which reduces wait time when you’re on the go,” Jones says. “Scheduling your Lyft ride in advance helps take some of the stress out of the trip, and travelers can earn Delta SkyMiles points for every ride they take,” Davis says. Lyft also provides instructions on how to find your ride, which can be especially helpful at an unfamiliar airport.

REMOTE ACCESS If your plans take you to a more remote location, be sure to confirm that you can get a ride back. For example, Florida’s Everglades National Park warns on its website that although you

might be able to get a ride to the park, PRICING it may not be easy to get someone to Some riders have both Uber and come back and pick you up. Lyft apps on their phones and will “A great way to ensure you have a check each before ordering a ride ride home is to use Uber’s Scheduled to see if the prices are comparable, Rides feature,” Jones says. “You can especially if one of the services is request your ride 30 days in advance more pervasive in a certain city. Lyft and up to 30 minutes before is available to about 95 percent of you need it.” the U.S. population across Davis notes that it’s all 50 states, as well as in important to “always be Toronto and Vancouver, Tip mindful of cellphone British Columbia, Uber lets you service and rural areas Davis says. request some rides 30 days in advance of that may have extended Uber is in more than when you need wait times. And in certain 700 cities across the them. areas, riders can schedule globe, Jones says. “We’re cars ahead of time.” Lyft also committed to offering ridoffers different transportation ers transparency and control options like bikes, scooters, rentals around pricing so they can make and even public transit in its app, informed decisions around when so it’s worth checking out what’s and how to use Uber,” she says. “We available when you visit a new city, make it easy to view and approve she says. the fare estimate up front in the Of course, there may be times when same language and currency that renting a car is the best option. you use at home.”

UP FRONT | ADVICE

Insuring Your Investment Planning travel in an uncertain time BY AMY SINATRA AYRES

Department or Centers for Disease Control and Prevention issue travel warnings for the area you were planning to visit. And if you have purchased an upgraded “cancel for any reason” policy, it lets you do just that. Evans and Kasara Barto, public relations manager for the travel insurance comparison site SquareMouth.com, also recommend going directly to the travel supplier — such as the airline, cruise line, hotel or tour operator — to see what your options are. Many are waiving change or cancellation fees, and if you’d rather reschedule,

GETTY IMAGES

WHETHER YOU’RE CANCELING or postponing a trip due to the outbreak of COVID-19, or you’re dreaming of scheduling a new vacation, you might be investigating the ins and outs of travel insurance. If you want to delay plans you made before the outbreak and you purchased insurance, the first step is to review your policy, says Peter Evans, executive vice president of InsureMyTrip.com. For standard policies, fear of traveling is not a benefit, experts explain. However, some standard policies include coverage if the U.S. State

GO ESCAPE | SUMMER 2020

you may be able to get a voucher or “port” the trip to the next calendar year, Evans says. For example, that may mean you arrange to go on the same trip in July 2021 instead of July 2020. Then you can work with the insurance provider to apply the date changes to your policy. “We’re seeing tremendous flexibility right now because (travel suppliers are) all in this, and they’re trying to make it work for everyone,” Evans says. It’s best to check in with your airline, cruise line or hotel for guidance as circumstances and company policies evolve. Deciding whether to purchase insurance and what kind of policy you need depends on your concerns, Barto says. For example, some standard travel insurance policies include cancellation benefits for financial default, such as if your travel supplier goes out

of business; employment layoff benefits in case you lose your own job; or “cancel for work reasons,” which kicks in if your time off from work is revoked due to impact from the virus, as may be the case for some health care workers and first responders. A policy with the “cancel for any reason” upgrade offers the most comprehensive coverage, Evans says. Early this year, as the outbreak began, sites like InsureMyTrip and SquareMouth reported huge jumps in the number of purchases of policies with “cancel for any reason” coverage. Those policies are time sensitive — they’re generally only available for purchase within the first two to three weeks after booking the trip — and they are more expensive, explains Barto. “It does cost about 40 percent more than a standard

travel insurance policy, and it reimburses 75 percent of the trip costs. However, it really does allow a traveler to cancel for any reason,” she says. “It’s a risk tolerance thing for me,” Evans says. These policies are “now mainstream, and it’s excellent coverage.” Evans says he typically upgraded to this coverage for his own vacations, even before the current situation. Rule of thumb if you are still planning a trip is to do your research and ensure you’re educated on how the policies work. “We are hearing from people that are still planning future trips, and the best advice is to just read through your policy and make sure that what you’re concerned about can be covered by the policy that you’re purchasing,” Barto says. “It’s really a personal decision.”

Packing Your Pet Ask yourself these questions before flying with your dog or cat BY CHRISTOPHER ELLIOTT

ON A RECENT flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu, Dave Terry almost tripped over a 70-pound Labrador retriever every time he stepped into the aisle to use the bathroom. After six hours of sitting next to the canine passenger, he wondered why on earth people fly with dogs. It turns out that question sharply divides pet owners and other passengers. Terry says the dog’s owner referred to the white Lab was an emotional support animal. But for him, it felt more like a safety hazard. “I love dogs and understand some people have special needs,” he says. “But after watching it, I’m not sure what support it provided the owner. It looked more like a free trip for the dog.” Earlier this year, the U.S. Department of Transportation tightened rules about service animals and gave permission for airlines to ask passengers traveling with a service animal to provide documentation related to vaccinations, training or behavior. The new policies come at an interesting time. A recent

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CONSIDER THESE FACTORS: 1. How much

will it cost to bring your pet? (Transportation, amenities and vaccinations, etc.) 2. How well do

you know your pet’s comfort with travel and the length of the trip? 3. How well does

your pet do in cars, planes and boats?

survey by Trupanion, a medical insurance company for pets, found that 1 in 5 pet owners travel with their animal companions. Of those who do, 37 percent travel by car, and a significant number (18 percent) fly with their pets. But there are fundamental questions pet owners should ask themselves before they pack a bag for their pets, experts say. “Travel can be stressful for pets,” says Joanna Gale, senior manager for global science advocacy at Mars Petcare. “So, before you plan your next trip, it’s important to ask: Will both my pet and I have a good time if we travel?” While there are several benefits to human passengers — companionship being the most obvious — experts in air travel with pets couldn’t name one benefit to the animal. Jeff Franklin, who owns the dog training business Cobra Canine, says he’s decided to keep his dog, Abigail, at home when he flies. Franklin says too many people have abused the airlines’ permissive rules about service animals and are not thinking about their pets’ welfare. “In the end, I made the decision to do what I think is best for Abigail, especially as she has aged, and not for myself, which would be to have her with me all the time,” he says. “If your dog or cat is likely to suffer no matter the mode of travel, they are probably best left at home,” says Aimee Gilbreath, executive director at Michelson Found Animals, which created a free national microchip registry. “If you suspect that your pet will be uncomfortable while flying, have a trusted friend or family member look after them instead or choose a pet boarding facility that suits your pet’s needs and personality.”

GETTY IMAGES

UP FRONT | ADVICE

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UP FRONT | ADVICE

Escape Artist Expert advice for embracing the journey BY DEBBIE WILLIAMS

TRAVEL WRITER AND photographer Nastasia Yakoub launched her Dame Traveler blog in 2014 to chronicle her adventures and empower women to pursue solo travel. She now has nearly 600,000 Instagram followers (@dametraveler) who track her worldwide pursuits.

TRAVEL MOTTO? Travel, but travel mindfully.

FAVORITE TRAVEL MEMORY? Seeing my mother’s eyes light up when she first saw the fjords in Norway; it was almost as if she was a little child again. She doesn’t get a chance to travel much, so whenever I can bring her on a trip with me, I do. There is no better gift than the gift of experience.

ESSENTIAL TRAVEL ITEM? I never leave home without my rosary.

Plane and train. I will probably be going on more domestic trips with the state the world is in right now. I’m also being mindful of my carbon footprint and would like to reduce it as much as possible while still being able to travel and explore.

also don’t travel impulsively. Be prepared, research the country, be aware of your surroundings while still enjoying the journey and the destination. Solo travel as a woman isn’t impossible, but it’s also important to be safe.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE A WOMAN CONTEMPLATING SOLO TRAVEL?

IF YOU COULD ONLY EVER TRAVEL TO ONE PLACE, WHERE WOULD IT BE AND WHY?

Don’t allow the fear that others try to instill in you prevent you from making the move, but

Italy. It’s my soul country. I’ve been going back every year since 2011, and I still haven’t seen it all.

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Yakoub’s recently released book, Dame Traveler: Live the Spirit of Adventure, features safety tips and photos with insights from more than 200 female travelers.

PROVIDED BY NASTASIA YAKOUB: TEN SPEED PRESS

PREFERRED MODE OF TRANSPORTATION?

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UP FRONT | EVENTS

National Archives, Washington, D.C.

Voting Matters America celebrates the 19th Amendment from sea to shining sea

AS THE SUN sets on Aug. 26, landmarks across the country will turn purple and gold, lit with the colors of the women’s suffrage movement. The date marks 100 years since the 19th Amendment became law, guaranteeing American women the right to vote. The coordinated effort, dubbed the Forward Into Light campaign, is just one of hundreds of events — from skydiving to opera — planned for this milestone anniversary. “There are monuments, podcasts, exhibits, parades ... you name it,” says Anna Laymon, executive director of the Women’s Suffrage Centennial Commission, created by Congress to oversee and promote the commemoration. “We have a chance now to remind ourselves of this fascinating and crucial part of the American story and make sure we honor it and learn from it for years to come.” Here’s how you can join the celebration:

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NATIONAL ARCHIVES

B Y C HE RYL R OD E WI G

Project 19 skydive training

D SQUARED SKYDIVING; GETTY IMAGES

ASPEN MUSIC FESTIVAL Aspen, Colo. July 16 through Aug. 23 This annual extravaganza of some 400 musical performances pays homage to the centennial anniversary with its Uncommon Women of Note theme. Enjoy works created and inspired by women, from orchestral concerts to cabaret to an opera about Susan B. Anthony. SUFFRAGE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION Adams, Mass. Aug. 21-23 The hometown of Susan B. Anthony is pulling out all the stops for its pioneering ancestor, who would have turned 200 this year. The lineup of a dozen-plus events culminates with a festival featuring a 5K run, parade, performances, art and fireworks. On Sunday, see the unveiling of a statue showing Anthony, both as a young girl studying and as a woman delivering her famous Declaration of Rights of the Women of the United States.

EQUALITY WEEKEND Seneca Falls, N.Y. Aug. 22-23 Known as the birthplace of women’s suffrage, Seneca Falls hosted the first women’s rights convention in 1848. Today, it’s home to the National Women’s Hall of Fame and the Women’s Rights National Historical Park, two venues that will be part of the townwide Equality Weekend to celebrate the centennial. The weekend includes music, living history shows, kids’ activities and a keynote program with the descendants of Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Maggie Lena Walker and Frederick Douglass. They’ll discuss not only the courage of those who fought for suffrage but also the racial divide that was present in the movement.

UP FRONT | EVENTS

Walls for Women

WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE CENTENNIAL Nashville, Tenn. Summer 2020 Tennessee was the 36th state to ratify the 19th Amendment, turning the proposed amendment into law, and the Volunteer State is celebrating in a big way. Nashville is the hub, but there are happenings statewide. Check out Walls for Women, a series of murals by female artists being installed July 18 through Aug. 18. At The Hermitage Hotel, where activists debated the vote a century ago, you’ll find exhibits, suffrage-themed cocktails, concerts, afternoon teas and a gala dinner created by some of the country’s top female chefs. THE SUFFRAGIST CITY PARADE Rochester, N.Y. Sept. 12 At this annual parade, you might run into three Frederick Douglass re-enactors, all at different ages, each eager to tell you their story. And this year’s event will be bigger than ever in honor of the centennial. Stay for the block party at Susan B. Anthony Square Park, where you can not only strike up conversations with those impersonating Douglass, Anthony and others but also watch street theater about voting or catch a game of late 19th-century women’s stoolball (a precursor to baseball).

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National Archives exhibit

WOMEN’S SKYDIVING NETWORK PROJECT 19 Eloy, Ariz. Oct. 5-11 Skydivers from across the globe will convene at Skydive Chicago to attempt to break the women’s vertical world record. The jump involves 100 women diving head-first from five planes, linking arms in a starburst-like formation. “We’re claiming the skies for women’s suffrage,” says Amy Chmelecki, professional skydiver and Project 19 co-founder. “We plan to secure this record in honor of the brave women who fought to advance our rights.” Spectators can watch the action from large-screen TVs. For the ultimate thrill, sign up for a tandem jump. RIGHTFULLY HERS: AMERICAN WOMEN AND THE VOTE Washington, D.C. Through Jan. 3, 2021 This 3,000-square-foot exhibit at the National Archives tells the story of the women’s equality campaign from early suffragists to the civil rights movement and beyond. Can’t make it to D.C.? A complementary exhibition, One Half of the People, is touring the country to extend the reach of this “treasure trove” of records, says exhibit curator Jennifer Johnson.

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE; THE HERMITAGE HOTEL; JEFF REED/ NATIONAL ARCHIVES; KRISTIN LUNA; GETTY IMAGES

Women’s Rights National Historic Park

The Hermitage Hotel

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UP FRONT | EVENTS

A League of Their Own America’s favorite pastime honors special centennial BY DIANA LAMBDIN MEYER

THIS SUMMER MARKS 100 meeting was held. After years since the formation of entering the ticket turnstile the Negro National League, and grabbing a seat on the the first organized profeswooden bleachers of what sional league for African would have been a typical American players. It’s a baseball stadium 100 years period of U.S. history that ago, visitors experience spanned about 40 years, a harsh reminder of the but it brought some of the American South of that game’s most talented era, which included players to bat and restrictive Jim Crow paved the way for laws. A James Earl Visit nlbm. Jackie Robinson Jones-narrated com for more to break Major video explores a information League Baseball’s time in history about upcoming (MLB) color when African events. barrier in 1947. Americans could To truly underonly dream of stand the impact of playing in the major the Negro Leagues requires leagues. a visit to Kansas City, Mo. More than 30 African That’s where, in February American communities 1920, team owners met to claimed a professional develop a business model baseball team in the 1920s. that would make black In addition to some of the baseball profitable. Today, popular male players of the the Negro Leagues Baseball time, the museum celebrates Museum is just a few blocks the women of the Negro away from where that first Leagues. Their names are >

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Leroy “Satchel” Paige

NEGRO LEAGUES BASEBALL MUSEUM

Kansas City Monarchs

Willard Brown, left, and Stonewall Jackson

Toni Stone

Monarchs versus Clowns, 1953

UP FRONT | EVENTS

Buck O’Neil

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SPECIAL EVENTS JULY 10-14: The MLB All-Star

Game in Los Angeles will feature a Negro Leagues display at the All-Star FanFest.

Museum that features live jazz, art and specialty hot dogs named for Negro Leagues players.

in Atlanta will feature a traveling exhibit from the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum that showcases Afro Latino baseball heritage.

AUG. 14: The Minnesota JULY 27 TO AUG. 2: The

Hank Aaron Invitational Tournament at Truist Park in Atlanta will feature 44 of the country’s top African American high school baseball players. Barrier Breakers, a traveling exhibit from the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, will be on display. AUG. 1: The Heart of America Hot Dog Festival in Kansas City is a fundraiser for the Negro Leagues Baseball

Twins will hold a special Negro Leagues Centennial Celebration that includes a pregame ceremony and an in-ballpark display spotlighting the impact of black baseball in Minnesota. AUG. 28: Historically Black

Colleges and Universities night at the Atlanta Braves’ Truist Park will feature a salute to the Negro Leagues. SEPT. 12: Los Bravos

weekend at Truist Park

SEPT. 26: Buck O’Neil 5K Run

and 2.2-mile Walk in Kansas City. O’Neil played first base for the Kansas City Monarchs and managed the team from 1948 to 1955. In 1965, he became the first African American to coach a major league team. NOV. 14: 100th Anniversary Gala in Kansas City includes the dedication of the Buck O’Neil Education and Research Center and celebrates his 104th birthday.

NEGRO LEAGUES BASEBALL MUSEUM

not as familiar, but their talent was comparable. Connie Morgan, Toni Stone and Mamie Johnson could all hit, field and run like their male counterparts. Indeed, Stone, the first woman in the league, was called up to replace Hank Aaron on the Indianapolis Clowns when he signed with the Milwaukee Braves in 1953. In 1945, Branch Rickey of the Brooklyn Dodgers handed a contract to Jackie Robinson. When Robinson stepped on the field in April 1947, times were changing. Baseball was fully integrated by 1959, and the Negro Leagues disbanded shortly thereafter. The COVID-19 pandemic has delayed the MLB season this year, but barring future game cancellations, here are some scheduled events to honor those who stepped up to the plate:

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Take a vacation from excuses and make fitness your next destination

GETTY IMAGES

BY MATT ALDERTON

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I typically pack protein bars, peanut butter and trail mix because I eat those at home and they typically hit all the boxes I need to check during the day: protein, carbs, sugars.” STEELE JOHNSON,

silver medalist, diving

GETTY IMAGES; NITISH DURBHA

n an unprecedented move, the COVID-19 pandemic has caused the International Olympic Committee to delay the summer games until next year. Barring any future complications or delays, more than 11,000 elite athletes from more than 200 nations will assemble in Tokyo and some of them will travel more than 10,000 miles just to compete. Fortunately, they’re used to it. Between tournaments, speaking engagements, business meetings and media appearances, Olympians must be as adept at crossing time zones as they are at crossing finish lines. It isn’t easy. When your body is your job, however, there’s no such thing as vacation. “Staying fit while traveling is one of the most challenging obstacles I face,” says freestyle skier David Wise, who won gold medals in the men’s freeski halfpipe at the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014 and the Pyeongchang Winter Olympics in 2018. “Traveling messes up your routine and disrupts your sleep patterns, and the added fatigue makes it nearly impossible to find the motivation to work out.” Yes, it can be a challenge, but if Olympians can train in transit, so can you. “It all comes down to motivation,” Wise says. “Staying healthy and fit while traveling is difficult, but not impossible; you just have to convince yourself that your health is worth the extra effort.” It also helps if you’re staying somewhere that puts fitness at your fingertips. Whether you’re an elite athlete or a recovering couch potato, heeding this advice and resting your head at these hotels will help you keep fitness on your travel itinerary:

EQUINOX HOTEL Hudson Yards, N.Y. At the first-ever Equinox Hotel in Manhattan’s chic new Hudson Yards neighborhood, guests receive full access to a 60,000-square-foot Equinox Club, which encompasses personal training, an indoor saltwater lap pool and group fitness classes, including exclusive morning workouts that take place on the Vessel — Hudson Yards’ iconic 150-foot-tall climbing sculpture — before it opens to the public. There’s also an on-site SoulCycle studio, and both the High Line and Hudson River Greenway are nearby for outdoor running or walking.

ARIA RESORT & CASINO Las Vegas “What happens in Vegas,” the ad slogan promises, “stays in Vegas.” Except calories. Those go with you — unless you burn them off, which is easy at ARIA Resort & Casino. The 6,000-square-foot fitness center features treadmills and strength machines, not to mention a rock climbing wall, personal training and group fitness classes. And for total wellness, book one of the resort’s new Stay Well rooms, which feature circadian-rhythm lighting, aromatherapy and access to online programs created by the Cleveland Clinic to assist with sleep, stress and nutrition.

PROVIDED BY THE HOTELS

HOTEL X Toronto Most hotel fitness centers are trivial. Hotel X Toronto’s is titanic. Called 10XTO, the 90,000-square-foot facility is actually a members-only athletic club, and hotel guests receive full access. Overlooking downtown Toronto through floor-to-ceiling windows, it includes 50 Technogym machines, nine squash courts, four indoor tennis courts and studios offering Pilates, spinning, hot yoga and more. Soon, there also will be a junior Olympic-size saltwater pool. Matt Black, the hotel’s director of marketing, calls it “fitness heaven” for “everyone from shy beginners to committed fitness buffs.”

THE WESTIN HAPUNA BEACH RESORT Kohala Coast, Hawaii Westin is known for wellness. The idyllic Westin Hapuna Beach Resort is no exception. Located on Hawaii’s Big Island — where abundant exercise awaits in the form of hiking, surfing and mountain biking — it features a gear lending program for athletic shoes and apparel; a run concierge who recommends curated jogging routes and leads group runs; and in-room Peloton bikes so guests can join live studio cycling classes. The fitness studio features top-of-the-line TRX cardio and strength equipment as well as a Crossfit workout area.

Travel in ‘Class’ Group fitness classes combine socializing with sweating. To get your fix when you’re in a new city, join ClassPass (class pass.com). Using the app or website, you can book fitness classes and experiences at 30,000 locations in about 30 countries. Plans are month-to-month and can be adjusted at any time. Members purchase credits, which can be used to book everything from boxing, cycling and yoga classes to pool time, post-workout massages and hydrotherapy.

No fitness center? No problem. In pursuit of better public health outcomes, many U.S. cities are upgrading public parks with outdoor fitness equipment that’s free to residents and visitors. “Parks are a great place to find physical activity because they’re built into the environment,” says Sadiya Muqueeth, director of community health at the Trust for Public Land, which partners with communities to install “fitness zones” in public parks. “Plus, parks are a fantastic way to explore the city and get to know the local community.” According to Muqueeth, you can typically find fitness-oriented parks by searching parks department and convention and visitors bureau websites.

Bring your swimsuit. Most hotels have a pool or sauna (and) swimming is a great way to have a relaxing but solid workout.” DEEDEE TROTTER,

bronze and two-time gold medalist, track and field

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GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY DEEDEE TROTTER

A Walk in the Park

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SILICON VALLEY East Palo Alto, Calif. Everything in Silicon Valley is high-tech, including workouts at Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley, which recently unveiled new guest rooms with in-room Tonal gyms — wallmounted systems that use artificial intelligence (AI) to automatically adjust resistance based on your body’s movements. The hotel also offers a freshly renovated fitness center with new equipment; an outdoor “Fitness Cabana” with a Peloton bike, row and elliptical machines and free weights overlooking the hotel’s rooftop pool; and bicycles so guests can explore any of Palo Alto’s many trails.

THE HOTEL AT MIDTOWN Chicago For nearly 50 years, Midtown Athletic Club was one of the world’s largest indoor tennis properties. Then, in 2017, it added a boutique hotel within the athletic club, commencing a second chapter as Chicago’s first urban sports resort. The new six-story building features indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a yoga studio, a 60-bike spinning studio, a group exercise theater, a 10,000-square-foot cardio fitness floor, a basketball court, indoor and outdoor turf fields and 16 indoor tennis courts, not to mention dozens of instructor-led fitness classes every day — more than 220 every week.

PROVIDED BY THE HOTELS

THE BEVERLY HILTON Beverly Hills, Calif. Along with a newly renovated fitness center, The Beverly Hilton employs a diet-conscious culinary team and offers Upgrade Labs, which hotel manager Michael Robertson calls a “biohacker’s dreamland.” Curated by Dave Asprey, author of The Bulletproof Diet, the 6,000-square-foot facility includes an arsenal of strength and recovery technologies, including an infrared sauna, cryotherapy booth and IV lounge. A “Cheat Machine” claims to give you a week’s worth of weightlifting in less than 15 minutes, and an AI-powered bike promises the benefits of a 40-minute jog with just 40 seconds of effort.

HILTON AUSTIN Austin, Texas Hilton's Five Feet to Fitness in-room concept facilitates full-body workouts steps from a guest’s bed. Specialized rooms feature 11 different fitness equipment and accessory options, including an indoor bike, TRX suspension straps and a Gym Rax functional training station with a digital kiosk that provides more than 200 guided exercise tutorials and 25 fitness classes. Currently, more than 20 Hilton hotels offer Five Feet to Fitness rooms — including Hilton Austin, which also features a heated rooftop saline pool and a recently renovated fitness center with cardio and weight equipment.

DESTINATION TRANSFORMATIONS Didn’t this hotel used to be …

BEFORE

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BY DIANE BAIR AND PAMELA WRIGHT

hy stay in a cookiecutter hotel when you can bunk down at a property with a fascinating history? Around the country, old factories, train stations and even jails are being repurposed as one-of-a-kind lodging. The best transformations offer cheeky touches that play on the building’s former life, revealing bits and pieces of the past. Check out — or check into — one of these:

GETTY IMAGES; GUILLAUME GAUDET

SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS Charmant Hotel LaCrosse, Wis. The 67-room Charmant Hotel is a former candy factory set on the Mississippi River. Beginning in 1898, the Joseph B. Funke candy company operated at this site for 35 years. Now, all that remains of those original treats are their tins, lining the hotel walls. Today’s sugar-craving guests can visit the hotel’s Sweets Bar, featuring housemade macarons and truffles produced locally by Indulgence Chocolatiers. Does the sweet scent of chocolate emanate from the building’s original maple wood flooring, wood beams and ceilings? Hard to tell, but these elements add to the character of the space, along with the factory’s exposed dolomite foundation and brick walls. A replica of the structure’s original water tower rises from the rooftop. This isn’t the first transformation to occur here; the first-ever building in LaCrosse once stood on this site, a log cabin constructed by fur trader Nathan Myrick in 1842. Rates start at around $149 per night.

UNION STATION HOTEL NASHVILLE, TENN.

BEFORE

ON TRACK TO BE A MUSIC CITY HANGOUT Considered one of the most Instagrammable hotel lobbies in the world, Union Station Hotel’s entrance is pure wow. Elements include a 65-foot barrel-vaulted stained-glass ceiling, bas-relief sculptures and a towering mezzanine clock. Formerly Nashville’s train station, the structure became a relic in the age of automobiles. The building might have ended up as a pile of rubble, but preservation-minded citizens spearheaded a move to designate

the site a National Historic Landmark and transform it from frumpy to fabulous. The 125 rooms are comfy and modern, but the public spaces evoke a grander age, with restored marble floors, century-old stained glass, oak-accented doors and three limestone fireplaces. What didn’t make the cut: two live-alligator ponds that once graced the entrance of the train station. Rates start at around $359 per night.

BEFORE

THIS ONE IS A SHOO-IN (OR SHOE INN?) The giant red kitten heel pump on the outside of the building is your first clue: This 44-room riverfront hotel was once the Craddock Terry Shoe Company. Founded in 1888 (and the first shoe manufacturer based south of the Mason-Dixon line), the company produced baby shoes, combat boots and everything in between — up to 100,000 pairs a day in its heyday. The hotel retains the factory’s industrial vibe, with exposed wood beams, brick and stone exterior walls and 9-foot-tall windows. But

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fanciful footwear flourishes are everywhere, from shoe-shaped cookies at turndown (if you book the hotel’s Romance Package) to the name of the hotel’s canine ambassador, Penny Loafer. More charming footnotes: Continental breakfast is served in a wooden shoeshine box, guest room doors sport shoe-shaped signs, and one of the restaurants is named Shoemakers. If you’re into shoes, this hotel is a perfect fit. Rates start at around $149 per night.

PROVIDED BY HOTELS; NASHVILLE HISTORIC COMMISSION

CRADDOCK TERRY HOTEL AND EVENT CENTER LYNCHBURG, VA.

LIBERTY HOTEL BOSTON

ORANGE IS THE NEW HOTEL

BEFORE

Today, celebrities and sports stars check into The Liberty Hotel. The clientele was decidedly scruffier back in the day — from 1851 to 1990 — when the building housed the Charles Street Jail. (It, too, had some famous guests, including the Boston Strangler and Malcolm X.) The 298-room hotel plays up its past infamy: The original catwalks are still in place, adding a cool architectural element, and the Alibi Bar, formerly the jail’s “drunk tank,” is decorated with celebrity mug shots. The hotel’s signature restaurant, CLINK (named after the sound of jail cells closing) incorporates vestiges of original metal bars. A fun touch: The ‘Do Not Disturb’ signs read ‘Solitary’ and feature a large replica of a 19th-century jailer’s key. To remove any lingering spirits or bad vibes, Buddhist monks blessed all of the hotel rooms prior to opening. Rates start at around $329 per night.

FOUNDATION HOTEL DETROIT

From the outside, it looks like a super spiffy firehouse, with bright red doors and arched doorways. Inside, it’s a stunning, 100-room boutique hotel, named one of the World’s Greatest Places in 2018 by Time magazine. Opened in 2017, the Foundation Hotel encompasses the former Detroit Fire Department headquarters, built in 1929, and the Pontchartrain Wine Cellars (circa 1886). The fire department departed in 2013, and after a $34 million transformation, the downtown hotel opened and is now a red-hot destination, featuring Michelin two-star chef Thomas Lents at the Apparatus Room restaurant — formerly the garage that housed fire trucks. Original details remain, including tiling, marble and flooring, enhanced with salvaged wood, cool bubble chandeliers and a wonderful collection of local art. Rates start at around $259 per night.

NOTHING HOLDS A CANDLE TO THIS PLACE Candles are great for creating ambiance, but can you add ambiance to a former candle-and-soap-manufacturing facility? Designers at The Wick did just that, transforming a plain-Jane factory into a chic, 55-room boutique hotel. Sections of the building were built in the 1860s, 1920s and 1950s, adding to the design challenge, but it’s a welcoming space now. The original hardwood floors and brick details have been restored, and the building’s industrial past is honored with exposed mechanicals and the use of candlemaking equipment blueprints as art. Hudson, too, has transformed. Once known for piracy and harlotry, it has morphed into a lively area lined with antiques shops, restaurants and boutiques. Rates start at around $189 per night.

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THE WICK HUDSON, N.Y.

GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY HOTELS; JOE VAUGHN; IRVIN SERRANO/THE PRESS HOTEL

ALARMINGLY CHIC

HOTEL EMMA SAN ANTONIO

SLEEP IT OFF

THE PRESS HOTEL PORTLAND, ME.

EXTRA, EXTRA, READ ALL ABOUT IT

Beer lovers, hop on over. This 146-room hotel is located in the former Pearl’s Brewhouse. Named after Emma Koehler, who took over the brewery in 1914 after her husband Otto was shot and killed by one of his lovers (also named Emma), the property retains the feel of a brewery minus the yeasty aroma. Designers retained the original wood beams, castin-place concrete vaulted ceilings and exposed brick walls, and the floor was replicated using remnants of the original circa 1900s tile. Old brewing equipment has been retrofitted as lighting fixtures and banquettes — 20-foot-tall steel brew tanks now serve as seating in the hotel’s Sternewirth bar, a triumph of repurposing. Open since 2015, the hotel has become a hot spot in the trendy Pearl District. Rates start at around $450 per night.

This one’s a headline-grabber: After a $10 million facelift, the former Portland Press Herald building is now a 110-room boutique hotel. Located in Portland’s Old Port district, the seven-story, 1923 building was vacated in 2010 when the newspaper relocated. The architects playfully edited elements of newspapering into the design. At the front desk, letterpress wood block letters act as sculpture. Overlooking the lobby is a soaring assemblage of antique typewriters created by artist Erin Hutton. “We often have to explain to kids of a younger generation what typewriters are,” quips the hotel’s general manager Michael Strejcek. Other newsy bits include wallpaper that’s a digital print of newspaper headlines from the Herald’s archives, and guest room design that reimagines a 1920s writer’s office, with vintage-looking editor’s chairs and typewriter key-shaped coasters. Author quotes are scattered throughout the décor — inside closets and in-room safes, in meeting rooms and in the lobby bar, Inkwell. Even the fitness center gives a nod to the building’s heritage: It holds the original (enormous) Toledo scale. Rates start at around $479 per night.

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RIVER RUN RV RESORT; SOURCEBOOKS

CAMPING

d e n i f e d e R

Today’s RV parks offer the great outdoors and so much more BY ERIN GIFFORD

River Run RV Resort

amping is very on-trend right now. More than 1 million U.S. households traded room service and mini bars for fire pits and s’mores in 2018, according to Kampgrounds of America’s latest North American Camping Report. This new group of campers is eager to get out in the wild, but not without the comforts of home. Skip the sleeping bags and nylon tents — these travelers have recreational vehicles (RVs) on their minds. RV ownership and rentals are up, and today’s campgrounds and RV resorts are taking notice, adding yoga studios, swim-up bars and wellness centers to attract travelers. RVs are also being upgraded with modern conveniences such as portable satellite antennas for live television from service providers like Dish Outdoors. “When people think about a campground, they think of a fire ring and a picnic table,” says Jeremy Puglisi, co-author of See You at the Campground: A Guide to Discovering Community, Connection, and a Happier Family in the Great Outdoors. “RVers want to have experiences they can have at an upscale hotel, but they want to have them from their RV.” >

Consumer sharing services, like

RVshare and Outdoorsy, let curious wannabe RVers test drive the experience and figure out what options and amenities are most important before buying one themselves. “You’ve got to get the RV right,” says Jon Gray, CEO of RVshare. “Think about the trip, how you’re likely to use the RV ... be thoughtful about the layout of the RV and your comfort level in driving it.” If you already own an RV, or are considering an outdoorsy vacation that’s more posh than primitive, here are some sites to consider:

BLAIRSVILLE, GA.

Tucked away in the foothills of north Georgia’s scenic mountains, this resort dazzles with five-star comforts that include a luxury clubhouse, massage rooms, sauna and a state-of-the-art fitness center. Laze on a luxe poolside chaise while the kids splash in the sparkling pool. Play a round of croquet or a friendly game of tennis. The area also includes multiple wineries, breathtaking hikes and a plethora of dining options. Normandy Farms Family Camping Resort

River Run RV Resort

Normandy Farms Family Camping Resort FOXBOROUGH, MASS.

This outdoor destination has been wowing guests since 1971. Unwind with a deep tissue massage, om out in a yoga class or feel the burn in the well-equipped fitness center. There’s even a Jacuzzi hot tub and a dry sauna. Fur babies need not miss out on a luxe getaway, thanks to a 1.5-acre dog park and agility course, as well as a washing station and dog-walking services. Guests can bring their own RV or rent a pop-up trailer on-site for an elevated camping experience.

Catherine’s Landing HOT SPRINGS, ARK.

Catherine’s Landing

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Just south of historic downtown Hot Springs, this 400-acre RV resort redefines the outdoor experience. Active guests can soar across thrilling zip lines, navigate a treetop ropes >

CROSSING CREEKS RV RESORT & SPA; RIVER RUN RV RESORT; CATHERINE'S LANDING; NORMANDY FARMS FAMILY CAMPING RESORT

Crossing Creeks RV Resort & Spa

t o Your N Grandparentsˇ

RV Modern RVs offer an array of design and tech features to make for luxury travel. “RVs are changing dramatically in the digital age,” says author Jeremy Puglisi. “Now you can control a whole host of features directly from an app on your cellphone.” The smart technology allows owners to remotely turn lights on or off, adjust the air conditioning and open or close awnings. These deluxe options are available in many new models: Oversized showers with skylight, detachable showerhead and a folddown bench seat. l Walk-in closets adjacent to the bathroom with a dresser shelf and coat rack. l Pull-out kitchen pantries and nearly full-size ranges. l Theater seating with built-in heaters and massage settings. l Interior design options like retro and cabin-style décor. l

JAYCO; GETTY IMAGES

— Erin Gifford

Zzzzzzz use this style for a label

course or hike nature trails. Take a kayak or pontoon boat out on scenic Lake Catherine, then cool off in the saline swimming pool. Premium beers and wines, such as craft microbrews from Little Rock’s Lost Forty Brewing, are available in the lodge.

Disney’s Fort Wilderness Resort & Campground LAKE BUENA VISTA, FLA.

This resort is a short ride by boat, shuttle bus or a car from Disney’s Orlando theme parks. Across this 750-acre property, there’s plenty to do, like horseback riding, tennis, canoeing and archery. In the evening, wrangle up dinner at several eateries, including The Chuck Wagon, an RV food truck, then belt out some tunes at the campfire singalong with furry duo, Chip ‘n’ Dale. The rip-roaring dinner show the HoopDee-Doo Musical Revue is another family favorite. Campers also can enjoy

all the benefits of an on-property Disney resort, like early park access and free shuttle service.

Massey’s Landing MILLSBORO, DEL.

Let the kids ride the waves at the private beach and sit back as staff set up an umbrella and beach chairs for the family at this resort, set on Delaware’s Indian River. There’s a swim-up bar at the resort pool, and a waterfront tiki bar that serves meals because every day of vacation isn't meant for cooking. Need an RV? In 2019, the resort started a rental program, allowing guests to book a stay in one of eight brand-new Heartland Prowler RVs that sleep up to six people.

River Run RV Resort GRANBY, COLO.

Set in a picturesque valley below the Arapaho and Roosevelt National

Forests and Rocky Mountain National Park, there’s plenty to do at this brandnew RV resort, such as fishing, stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking — all on a private lake. There’s outdoor yoga, a massive state-of-the-art gym and two restaurants. A putting green, amphitheater, bocce ball court, mini bowling alley, arcade and playground are available year-round, and this summer the property is planning to open glamping options like yurts and Conestoga wagons.

Carolina Pines RV Resort CONWAY, S.C.

Set amid towering pine trees, this RV resort is camping refined. Discerning travelers can expect high-end amenities such as resort-style swimming pools with private cabanas, a yoga studio, a fitness club, Jacuzzi spas, shuffleboard, pickleball and a full-service restaurant with delivery. l

Camp in Style Book a stay in one of Massey’s Landing’s

Massey’s Landing

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MASSEY'S LANDING

brand-new RVs

Surprising & Delightful

Where Southern hospitality blends with historic sites, fascinating wildlife preserves and affordable accommodations. Discover more. Visit website: CITYOFHARDEEVILLE.COM

Interstate 95 Exits 5 & 8 Near the South Carolina/ Georgia Border

P 54

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who’s hot dogs — Jacks and er ark ck p ll ra C ba , eanuts l of those the appea rs a h fe it of w e ll ba gu to ar leag ue base or in ds m bu t e u classics? B h your tast y to stretc it e n th tu e or p or bef great op stband — e ly your wai look at som a s e’ — and like er H . h tc s: re on st ti g nin rious crea seventh-in res’ most cu ai n io ss ce of the con

OT DOGS — MOVE OVER, H MBOS CO T HE S E C R A Z Y E BASE S C OV E R A L L T H

B A IR B Y D IA N E W R IG H T LA E M PA AND

ORDER THIS CHEEKILY named item while cheering on the Missoula, Mont., PaddleHeads, a Rookie Advanced affiliate of the Arizona Diamondbacks, and be prepared for some heckling: The dish consists of bull calf testicles, pounded flat, seasoned and deepfried, served on a bed of fries. “The novelty of ordering ‘Rocky Mountain Oysters’ is a real kick for our fans,” says Taylor Rush, the team’s director of marketing and public relations. Their friends may snicker, Rush says, “but these are actually quite delightful!”

WALK IT OFF E AT T

H I S:

ALLS

&B BATS

Close to town, Rattlesnake National Recreation Area is a wonderland of hiking trails, with creeks, lakes, mountain vistas and Big Sky beauty.

GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY THE BALLPARKS

YOU MIGHT SAY the Stockton (Calif.) Ports, a Class A Advanced affiliate of the Oakland A’s, have ‘spear-headed’ a new concept: the classic hot dog paired with deep-fried asparagus. “Stockton is known as the asparagus capital of the United States,” says the team’s marketing manager, Katie Schulz. On the team’s annual asparagus night, “We offer an array of asparagus-themed foods, and our players dress in asparagus-inspired uniforms during that game, which are auctioned afterwards to the fans,” Schulz says.

WALK IT OFF

Visiting with the kiddos? Take in too-cute Pixie Woods, a sweet retro attraction featuring a vintage carousel, pirate ship, paddle wheel boat, fire truck and water play area.

EAT THIS:

ASPARAGUS DOG

THE PORTLAND, MAINE, Sea Dogs, the Double-A affiliate of the Boston Red Sox, offer a dessert named after the state’s fabled vacationland, Mount Desert Island. Got a sweet tooth, or a whole mouth full of them? You’ll need ’em to tackle this mound of oozing delight, a frieddough bowl filled with soft serve ice cream, hot fudge, caramel sauce, whipped cream, sprinkles, Reese’s Pieces, M&Ms and cherries, served inside a full-size Sea Dogs batting helmet. Now that’s hitting the sweet spot.

EAT THIS:

MOUNT DESSERT ISLAND

TALK ABOUT BATTER(ED) up: The Clinton, Iowa, LumberKings, a Class A affiliate of the Miami Marlins, offer steel-stomached fans the Garbage Pail. Consisting of mini tacos, chicken strips, fries, onion rings, cheese balls, corn nuggets, mini corn dogs and fried pickles, this crunch-tastic creation is the stuff that hungry teenage boys’ fantasies are made of. You might say other ballpark eats ‘pail’ in comparison.

PAIL E G A AR B

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Kick up your heels on the hiking trails at Eagle Point Park, located on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. The centerpiece is a castlelike limestone tower.

GETTY IMAGES; RYAN THORNE; PROVIDED BY THE BALLPARKS

There’s lots of great dining in this seaside city, but we figure you’re full, so explore the Old Port District — always a fun place to walk around, or take a scenic cruise past the islands of Casco Bay on the Casco Bay Lines ferry.

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YOU’LL BE CAUGHT looking — with astonishment — at this over-the-top take on a hot dog. It’s a foot-long wiener stuffed with pulled pork and cheddar cheese, swathed in bacon, deep-fried and drizzled with barbecue sauce, aka The Squealer. This devilish dog is served with pride — although probably not a cardiologist’s endorsement — by the Akron, Ohio, RubberDucks, the Cleveland Indians’ Double-A affiliate.

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Tour stunning Stan Hywet Hall & Gardens, a 65-room Tudor revival mansion — and one of America’s great country estates — built by F.A. Seiberling, a cofounder of the Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company.

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CHARLESTON, S.C., IS a foodie mecca, so you’d expect the concession fare of the Charleston RiverDogs, a Class A affiliate of the New York Yankees, to be a grand slam. You would be right. At the top of the roster: the Homewrecker, a hot dog topped with slaw, pimento cheese, pickles, okra and barbecue sauce. It pairs especially well with a beer milkshake, they say.

EAT THIS:

THE HOMEWRECKER

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No visit to Charleston is complete without seeing Joe Riley Waterfront Park, for harbor views, splash fountains and family-sized swings.

THE PEPPERONI ROLL is a West Virginia favorite. Leave it to the West Virginia Black Bears, a Class A Short Season affiliate of the Pittsburgh Pirates in Granville, to raise the bar (or should we say bat?) with their version. They start with Julia’s pepperoni rolls, made locally at Chico Bakery, and stuff them with meat and cheese. Fans at Monongalia County Ballpark gobble them up — and cheer on the nightly Pepperoni Roll Race featuring costumed mascots.

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Immerse yourself in nature at Coopers Rock State Forest. Just outside of Morgantown, the park offers myriad hiking and biking trails, plus a lake and sandstone cliffs.

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CRABZILLA

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Wander Fort Pickens. Built circa 1834 to defend Pensacola Bay and its naval yard, the property features a masonry fort, tunnels and authentic cannons, set on Gulf Islands National Seashore. A ferry connects downtown Pensacola to the area.

GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY THE BALLPARKS; NINO MENDEZ

COMBINE A WHOLE soft-shell crab, crab remoulade, pork belly, Parmesan crab mac and cheese, fried shrimp, crab pups, lettuce, tomato and crab fries and you’ve got the Crabzilla, named America’s best new food item by Ballpark Digest for the 2019 season. There’s only one place to get this golden pile of deliciousness: Admiral Fetterman Field, home of the Pensacola, Fla., Blue Wahoos, a Double-A affiliate of the Minnesota Twins. “It was an instant fan favorite,” says Blue Wahoos executive chef Travis Wilson.

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stlouisunionstation.com

Discover the St. Louis Aquarium, Ropes Course, Carousel and more when you stay at the St. Louis Union Station Hotel.

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EXPLORE AMERICA

136

102 106

100

110

62 66 78 114

130 122 138

126 132

128 82

118 120 96

140

MAP: STUDIO GANNETT

NORTHEAST

SOUTHEAST

MIDWEST

WEST

PACIFIC

62 My Town: Westchester, N.Y.

80 My Town: Nashville, Tenn.

100 My Town: Green Bay, Wis.

118 My Town: Phoenix

130 My Town: San Jose, Calif.

64 Honoring an icon in D.C.

82 Explore civil rights history

102 Charming Mackinac, Mich.

120 Fort Worth on foot

132 Get your ticket to drive

66 New York City for movie buffs

89 Visit the Little Easy

106 Wisconsin creameries

122 Zest for hiking Zion

136 Seattle’s parks shine

70 Maine’s natural beauty

92 Camp on a Florida beach

110 South Dakota’s sites

126 Feast on fried chicken

138 Enjoy rockets and rosé

72 Sweet treats in New England

96 Off campus in Hattiesburg, Miss.

114 Hit the Ohio Donut Trail

128 First Americans museum

140 Explore Alaska by rail

78 Discover great estates

NORTHEAST | M Y TOW N

ROB THOMAS

Westchester, N.Y. For singer-songwriter Rob Thomas, Westchester County, N.Y., has been home for 15 years. When the threetime Grammy Award winner isn’t busy collaborating with legends like Carlos Santana, Mick Jagger and Willie Nelson or performing with his band Matchbox Twenty (on tour July through September), he’s out exploring Westchester. — SARAH SEKULA

BEST PLACE TO

CATCH A MOVIE

BAKED GOODS Rochambeau Farm “is great for locally grown vegetables, plus baked goods, cheeses and other specialty products. Getting to visit with all the amazing, friendly animals that live on the farm is an added bonus.” rochambeaufarmny.com

“

Blue Hill at Stone Barns is the ultimate farmto-table eating experience, with most of the restaurant’s produce grown right on-site. It’s on an 80-acre estate that makes the visit even that more special.” — ROB THOMAS

bluehillfarm.com

bedfordplayhouse.org

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LIVE MUSIC “Capitol Theatre (in Port Chester) has been a place to see amazing live music since the late ‘60s. (Eric) Clapton, Santana, all of the greats played here. Since its renovation a few years back, it’s always a favorite stop to play in my own backyard.” thecapitoltheatre.com

BEST PLACE TO

CHOW DOWN “There’s no better or more consistent casual dining spot around than the Mt. Kisco Diner. There is no shortage of great diners in (New York City) so the fact that people come up from the city to try it out says a lot about it. It’s classic New York diner fare mixed with higher-end foods than you would expect from a diner.” mtkiscodiner.com

BEST PLACE FOR

RANDALL SLAVIN; SCOTT HARRIS; ROCHAMBEAU FARM

BEST PLACE FOR

“Bedford Playhouse, Home of Clive Davis Arts Center, is considered a Westchester staple and was recently renovated by community donations, as well as a generous donation from Clive Davis. There are three theaters where you can watch new movie releases, classics, independent films, as well as author series, speaker events and music performances. They have a café with full bar, so you can enjoy a movie in a comfortable recliner while having some wine and good food. It’s a really special spot.”

ROSA

PARKS In Her Own Words

Current Exhibition Also Available Online Revealing Rosa Parks’ Lifetime of Activism Through Her Personal Collection on Display for the First Time

Made possible by Ford Foundation, Catherine B. Reynolds Foundation, AARP, HISTORY®, Joyce and Thomas Moorehead and The Capital Group.

loc.gov/rosaparks Look for the official companion volume, published by the University of Georgia Press in association with the Library of Congress. Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Building 10 First Street SE Washington, DC 20540

Photo Credit: Donna Terek/Detroit News, 1993

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Chestertown • Rock Hall • Galena • Betterton • Millington

NORTHEAST | DIST R IC T OF COLU MBI A

Illuminating an Icon New Rosa Parks exhibit shines light on civil rights legend

ou may think you know Rosa Parks, but a new exhibit aims to educate further about the late activist and civil rights icon. Rosa Parks: In Her Own Words, an exhibition that opened at the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C., in December, reveals Parks was more than the acts of heroism that made her famous. When Parks refused to give up her seat to a white man on a Montgomery, Ala., city bus in 1955, she had already been a champion for inequality and injustice for decades. Her arrest only provided her with a larger platform to effect change.

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“We wanted to get beyond the legend,” says Carla Hayden, the librarian of Congress. “Beyond the tired woman on the bus.” Visitors to the nation’s capital will already be awestruck by the library’s impressive exterior, featuring tall columns and statues of mermaids. Head inside, and you’ll be treated to intricate artwork along the walls. On the second floor, you’ll find the Parks presentation and the women’s suffrage exhibit: Shall Not Be Denied: Women Fight for the Vote. Whether you’re looking around or closing your eyes and listening, the pictures, videos, quotes and handwritten letters will immerse you in

everything Parks, from her early activism to her support of Jesse Jackson’s presidential campaigns. “It is better to teach or live equality and love ... than to have hatred and prejudice,” reads one of Parks’ quotes. The Rosa Parks collection includes 140 years of family history and approximately 10,000 items, according to curator Adrienne Cannon. The exhibition, on display through September, includes everything from Parks’ personal reflections on her arrest to family photographs and letters to a handmade blue dress from her wardrobe. You can even see a sketch of what the bus looked like — and where Parks sat — on that

SHAWN MILLER/LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

BY DAVID OLIVER

as the mother of the modern civil rights movement, the arrest that led to the Montgomery bus boycott … (and it also) presents her as a woman. Human, vulnerable and perfect. And that’s what this exhibit tries to do,” Cannon adds. As part of a new pilot program at the Library of Congress, reference librarians will be on hand to explain how visitors can see and use the materials. Visitors will also be able to go online and download documents for research projects and publications. Rosa Parks: In Her Own Words is also the title of a book, written by Susan Reyburn, that serves as a companion to the exhibition. The book features more than 80 color and black-and-white images from Parks’ collection, with many making their debut in print. What would Parks think of the exhibit? She died in 2005, but those who knew her say she’d be amazed and honored. “For a little woman from Alabama to be in this awesome building … she, in her wildest dreams, would’ve never dreamed that she would be portrayed like this or that her personal writings would be exposed,” says — ROSA PARKS Jane Gunter, who was on the Montgomery bus with Parks. humanizing quality that seemed quite Gunter, a white woman, offered her poignant.” own seat to Parks that fateful day. “She Parks’ written words are the most can take my seat,” Gunter said, but a striking feature of the exhibit tall, thin white man told her, “Don’t you for Cannon. dare make a move.” Gunter met Parks “To a large degree, she’s going to decades later in Atlanta. Parks told her, bare her soul, and she does that in “You were there.” pencil because it’s tentative,” Cannon Fred Gray, her lawyer at the time, says of Parks’ reflections on her arrest. thinks Parks would’ve been proud “Because she’s revealing her vulnerof the progress in today’s world, ability, and she’s not sure what she’s but that she would strive for more. going to say.” “I think she would think that all of Such reflections include her brief these honors are good and we’ve incarceration and writing about the made tremendous progress. But I larger impact of what living under Jim think she would also say that there is Crow segregation does to the psyche. still too much racism in this country,” “It simultaneously crystallizes what he says. “I think she would tell us she we know about her, her iconic status did what she could.”

It is better to teach or live equality and love ... than to have hatred and prejudice."

historic day in Montgomery. The handwritten letters stand out as a compelling feature. Papers showing her impeccable cursive handwriting weave throughout the exhibit, housed in traditional museum glass cases, but also enlarged as posters. David Mandel, the director of the Center for Exhibits and Interpretation at the Library of Congress, points out how she would write things on the front and back of documents, including an envelope and even a pharmacy bag. And that’s part of why they chose to highlight them in the exhibit: “They’re almost art in a way,” Mandel says. “The artistic quality bled over into this

NORTHEAST | N EW YOR K

Big Apple on the Big Screen New York City is home to iconic film locations and prestigious festivals BY SANDY SMITH

Film Forum

GET IN ON THE ACTION Dozens of films and TV shows are

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in production in the city at any time — and some of them may offer a glimpse of the work as it happens. The Mayor’s Office of Media and Entertainment provides a roundup of what’s filming each day, but you’ll need to dig a little deeper to track down the precise locations. Tour company On Location Tours provides some insights on its blog, including general locations of what’s filming each month. While getting to see live filming requires some serendipity, visiting the sites where famous movie scenes were shot doesn’t. On Location Tours offers a variety of walking and bus tours priced from $31 to $62, with discounts for children 9 and younger. Some routes incorporate a number of famous sites, while others focus on a particular TV >

NOW PLAYING While there are numerous niche festivals for just about any film genre, there are several big ones that set the cinema calendar — and might be worth planning a trip around: uThe New York Film Festival, held each fall at Lincoln Center, is one of the most prestigious in the country. Lincoln Center also hosts the New Directors/New Films Festival highlighting the work of emerging auteurs each spring. uThe Tribeca Film Festival, co-founded by actor Robert DeNiro, focuses on the work of independent filmmakers. uIf watching an older film is more your style, the Bryant Park Film Festival fits the bill. It is offered free on Monday nights during the summer at Bryant Park in Midtown.

PETER AARON/OTTO

ew York City is so much more than a setting for films. In many cases, it’s a co-star. What would Holly Golightly do, if not breakfast at Tiffany? Would Home Alone 2: Lost in New York be nearly as funny if Kevin McCallister was ordering ice cream sundaes somewhere other than the Plaza Hotel? Because of its celebrity, New York City is a mecca for cinephiles, offering plenty of ways to become immersed in a favorite movie or TV show, to enjoy the latest offerings at a film festival or maybe even catch filming in action. Here’s a guide to prepare you for your closeup with the New York film scene:

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show or movie, like Gossip Girl, Friends and Sex and the City. A holiday-themed tour, held between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day, visits locations from Christmas movies like Elf and Mr. Popper’s Penguins. Free Tours By Foot offers an online map of 11 sites in and around Central Park. An audio version is available on iTunes for Apple and Android devices. And of course, looking up the landmarks on your own is also an option. Be warned, though: You likely won’t be alone. The owner of the restaurant that serves as the backdrop for Central Perk, where the Friends gang hung out, told the New York Post that he might see 1,000 people drop by on a weekend to take photos. Be prepared to wait in line at these Instagrammable sites. One of the most-often filmed sites — The Plaza Hotel — has gotten in on the fun. It offers several experiences that

capitalize on the popularity of the Eloise book series and film Eloise at the Plaza. Book a stay in the Eloise Suite, designed by Betsey Johnson in signature pink and black. Or sip high tea in The Palm Court. A special Eloise experience — complete with custom teacups and tableware — is available daily between noon and 4:45 p.m. for $60 for children 12 and younger. The Plaza also offers a seasonal Home Alone 2 experience, which includes an ice cream sundae, paint can, copy of the DVD and, of course, an overnight stay. Rates start at $680. At the end of your film excursion, treat yourself to a frozen hot chocolate at Serendipity 3. The site of movies like One Fine Day and Trust the Man, the restaurant is most known for its role in the film Serendipity, starring John Cusack and Kate Beckinsale. l

Eloise High Tea at The Plaza Hotel

Bethesda Terrace

THE ART’S IN THE HOUSE

uMetrograph harkens back to the 1920s and features film premieres, archival print screenings, book signings and other events. Its Metrograph Commissary restaurant and bar evokes the feeling of old Hollywood.

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uFilm Forum is a nonprofit that started in 1970 with 50 folding chairs and one projector. It now includes three theaters running year-round, and focuses on international films on social, political, historical and cultural realities.

uLincoln Center isn’t just the home to numerous film festivals — it serves as a movie house where independent and mainstream films play at the Walter Reade Theater and Elinor Bunin Munroe Film Center.

THE PLAZA; KATE GLICKSBERG (2); PETER AARON/OTTO; JEREMY LIEBMAN/METROGRAPH LLC

Movies can be a mixed bag, but sometimes the theater itself is worth the price of admission. Here are some movie houses worth checking out:

NORTHEAST | M A IN E

Unspoiled Charm Find fresh adventure at one of America’s newest monuments BY JEN ROSE SMITH

CHRIS SHANE

lear rivers and hiking trails unspool through dense forest in Katahdin Woods and Waters. An ancient landscape, it’s also one of America’s youngest national monuments. “You’re in the Northwoods and things are pretty rustic,” says superintendent Tim Hudson, the sole year-round employee of the monument established in northern Maine in 2016. “But you’ve got great views, three really nice rivers and (Mount) Katahdin staring you right in the face.” Exploring here offers the chance to see a wild New England forest free of crowded campgrounds, traffic — even paved

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BILL BROOKE; CHRIS SHANE

roads. Giving up a developed park’s cushy amenities means roughing it a bit, but it will earn you blissful solitude and the chance to see a new national monument emerge from unbroken wilderness. For many visitors, the first stop is the 17-mile Katahdin Loop Road, a dirt track leading to hiking and biking trails. It’s also the starting point for the International Appalachian Trail, an ultralong-distance route that stretches from the Maine woods to Newfoundland and Labrador in Canada. Leantos and campsites dot the 30-mile stretch within the 87,500-acre expanse, which offers big vistas of Mount Katahdin — at 5,267 feet, the state’s tallest mountain. Cait Bourgault, a Maine photographer and hiking guide, walked the trail soon after the monument was created. “It’s so unbelievably serene and untouched,” she says. “It was just so much more wild than I expected.” After her campfire turned to embers, Bourgault saw the Milky Way transformed into a splashy band of lights. Because the protected land is one of the darkest places east of the Mississippi River, it claims some of New England’s finest stargazing. “The stars just lit up the campsite,” Bourgault notes. “There were times I barely needed a headlight.” And with rivers snaking through the monument’s most remote corners, grabbing a canoe paddle pays off in solitude and scenery. “It is a quintessential Maine canoeing experience,” says David Butler, a Maine Path and Paddle guide who leads

MAKE A TRIP OF IT Spend the night in a cozy cabin by Millinocket Lake at the New England Outdoor Center, which boasts a sandy beach and fleet of loaner boats. Its River Driver’s Restaurant serves a crowd of locals and hikers, and the monument’s southern entrance is less than an hour away. For easy access to the northern edge of the monument, try Matagamon Wilderness, with a campground and cabins that are staging grounds for adventures. Hearty sandwiches in the on-site café are perfect fare for packed lunches.

trips at Katahdin. “You definitely get the sense that it hasn’t changed since Thoreau paddled it in the mid-1800s.” The East Branch of the Penobscot River twists and turns past jaw-dropping mountain views. Here, moose and bald eagles materialize from the mist, and paddlers pause to fish for each day’s dinner. Salmon and brook trout

dive for flies at the surface of the Penobscot, which boasts some of the state’s finest bass fishing. Even the most veteran nature lovers succumb to the untouched charm. When Bourgault visited nearly four years ago, the native Mainer was astonished by what she found: “If you really appreciate what Maine is, Katahdin Woods and Waters is on the top of your bucket list.”

While there’s no permanent visitor center, park employees staff seasonal contact stations stocked with maps and information. Visit the Millinocket Welcome Center on your way to the south end of the park, or stop by the Patten Lumbermen’s Museum as you travel to the north gate. The most detailed maps are the waterproof versions from Map Adventures, with tips on hiking, biking, camping and paddling.

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Joshua Livsey at Harvest

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Just Desserts These sweet New England indulgences are worth the trip BY DIANE BAIR AND PAMELA WRIGHT

verybody knows New England is tops when it comes to lobster rolls. Fried clams? Ditto. And the chowder is sublime, too. But don’t underestimate the region’s sweet side. From the humble (a potato doughnut at The Holy Donut) to the highbrow (lemon olive oil cake with lemon curd at Sift Bake Shop), New England has got the baked goods. Some locals would prefer to keep these decadent treats a secret, as they feel the lines at some renowned bakeshops are already long enough. But we’re letting the gateau out of the bag. Here’s where to go for the most delicious desserts in the region:

MUST TRIES:

Flour Bakery + Cafe Pecan sticky bun; Flour’s take on the Oreo cookie

DIANE BAIR (2); KRISTIN TEIG (2)

TASTE OF THE MIDDLE EAST She’s a James Beard Award semifinalist, but getting shoutouts from the Oscars of the culinary world is nothing new to Maura Kilpatrick, executive pastry chef and co-owner of Sofra Bakery and Cafe in Cambridge, Mass. She received James Beard nominations for outstanding pastry chef in 2015, 2016 and 2017, and for outstanding baker in 2018 and 2019. We’d wager that Kilpatrick can bake pretty much anything, but it’s her skill at incorporating exotic ingredients that sets her apart. Flavors and spices such as orange blossom, tahini and rose petals add the “wow” factor to her Middle Eastern-inspired pastries. Kilpatrick’s contemporary versions of traditional desserts from Turkey, Lebanon and Greece are less sweet than the originals, she says, making them more pleasing to the American palate. Prior to opening Sofra with chef Ana Sortun in 2008, Kilpatrick honed her skills in the kitchens of some of Boston’s top chefs, including Lydia Shire and the late Moncef Meddeb. Locals know that anything coming out of Kilpatrick’s oven will be delicious and unusual.

Sofra Bakery and Cafe Earthquake cookies; chocolate-hazelnut baklava

CHAIN THAT LAUNCHED 1,000 DIETS Curse you, Joanne Chang, and your addictive pecan sticky buns! If only the Harvardeducated Chang had stuck to applied mathematics and economics, Bostonians wouldn’t have to use every ounce of willpower to resist those Princess Leia-size buns, to say nothing of the flourless chocolate cake oozing with chocolate mousse. It’s getting more difficult to avoid these temptations now that Flour Bakery + Cafe has eight locations in and around Boston. Chang, who had planned to be a consultant, enjoyed baking in her spare time. Once she stepped inside a restaurant kitchen, however, a new career path was charted. After stints in the pastry departments of restaurants in Boston and New York, Chang opened her first Flour Bakery in Boston’s South End in 2000. Since then, she has authored five cookbooks and now operates a contemporary Chinese restaurant, Myers + Chang, with her husband, Christopher Myers. The joy of baking is as pure as ever for Chang: “I love making people happy with amazing pastry! I know how much absolute pleasure I get out of a perfectly baked croissant or sugary Kouign Amann, and sharing that joy with others is my true passion.”

NOW THAT’S A DOUGHNUT

The Holy Donut Dark chocolate sea salt and bacon-cheddarfilled doughnuts

Portland, Maine, is justifiably famous for its food scene: You must really try the bivalves at Eventide Oyster Co., the crudo at Central Provisions, the Belgian fries at Duckfat, the pizza at Otto … the list goes on. But foodies know that you must arrive by noon to procure Portland’s most craveworthy desserts at The Holy Donut. Owner Leigh Kellis uses a not-so-secret ingredient in her treats: fresh mashed potatoes from Maine’s Aroostook County. She began making doughnuts in her kitchen before opening the first Holy Donut in 2012; now there are three locations selling more than 2 million hand-cut, scratch-made doughnuts >

NORTHEAST

Adam Young at Sift

annually. Flavors rotate (about 20 choices daily) and might include maple bacon, toasted coconut, Allen’s Coffee Brandy (it’s a Maine thing) and ginger-glazed sweet potato. While doughnuts aren’t exactly a health food, Kellis does her best to ratchet up the wholesome factor, using unbleached flour, fruit and vegetable juices to color her glazes and 60 percent cocoa chocolate chips. No wonder the gospel of The Holy Donut

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is spreading beyond New England. “Doughnuts make people happy. We can all use more of that,” Kellis says.

HARVEST OF CREATIVITY Rhode Island native Joshua Livsey was a finalist on Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship in 2017 and Best Baker in America in 2019. Off-screen, he has won legions of fans thanks to his glorious creations at Harvest restaurant in

Cambridge, Mass. Livsey’s fanciful Buche de Noel was a showstopper on TV, and this telegenic baker makes the competition nervous with his intriguing combination of flavors. For Harvest, his exquisite creations have included yuzu posset with goat cheese ice cream, strawberries and matcha cake, and chocolate almond cake with avocado ice cream. The Johnson & Wales University graduate worked as a baker at a golf

club and ran his own custom cake business. After a stint at the Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta, Livsey joined Harvest and was named executive pastry chef in 2016. Livsey’s masterful pastries draw diners to Harvest, but this self-proclaimed cookie lover is really a kid at heart: His recent doughnut pop-up at Harvest was Star Warsthemed, featuring flavors with names (Chew-Babka and Obi-Wan-Cannoli) as creative as the desserts.

DIANE BAIR (3); KRISTIN TEIG (2); RYAN HOWE/THEHOLYDONUT.COM; LAUREN LEAR

Sift pastries

Joanne Chang at Flour Bakery + Cafe

MUST TRIES:

Earthquake cookies at Sofra Bakery and Cafe

The Holy Donut’s bacon cheddar treat

Sift Chocolate raspberry torte; carrot cake

FRENCH-INSPIRED FOODIE CELEBRITY If you happen to see Adam Young in one of his bake shops, or if you’ve seen him on a Food Network baking show, your first thought might be: How does he make such delicate desserts with those big hands? Young, who stands 6 feet, 5 inches tall, was an imposing presence on the 2018 Best Baker in America. Not only was he the go-to guy for fetching ingredients

on high shelves, but he also won the competition, impressing the judges with his version of the ultimate chocolate cake, which prompted judge Jason Smith to proclaim he was “happy as a hog in mud” while eating it. Young was also a finalist on Food Network’s Spring Baking Championship in 2017. Heady stuff, considering Young had opened his French-inspired pastry shop, Sift, just two years

earlier. Trained at the New England Culinary Institute, Young opened his first Sift in Mystic, Conn., in 2016, followed by a bakery in Watch Hill, R.I. “I am blessed with a team that is (as) committed to quality and service as I am — a team of people who don’t believe dessert is an afterthought,” Young says. Join his TV fans in a pilgrimage to Sift, and you, too, can be as happy as a hog in mud. l

Harvest Lemon tart with Sorrento lemon cream and coconut sorbet; toffee cake with figs

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Glimpse bygone grandeur at historic Mid-Atlantic homes BY CHERYL RODEWIG

ou might expect turrets and medieval tapestries on a European tour, but you can find similar splendor stateside throughout the Mid-Atlantic. These large homes were built by larger-than-life personalities. The characters are distinctly American — industrialists, immigrants,

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entrepreneurs — but the grand estates they left behind shine with Old World charm. And while you can walk through these fantastic castles and mansions and see what life might have been like for the wealthy owners who once lived there, you can’t rent a room for an overnight stay or an extended visit. Fortunately, there are lodging options nearby that will have you feeling like royalty.

FONTHILL CASTLE Doylestown, Pa. Inspired by medieval fortresses, Fonthill Castle is unlike anything you’ll find along the Rhine River. Its creator, Henry Mercer, was a well-to-do tile maker who dreamed of building a “Castle for the New World.” He began in 1908, with no architectural training or blueprints, a process that rambled across four years, resulting in a Byzantine-Gothic hybrid of 32 stairwells, 21 chimneys and more than 200 windows. Colorful tiles cover nearly every interior surface, forming patterns, phrases and unusual illustrations. Stay: The Doylestown Inn, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, gives a nod to its former life as a speakeasy, cigar shop and more with clever touches in the bar and restaurant that include reclaimed wood, antiques and period photos.

KEVIN CRAWFORD; NORMAN BARKER AND JAMES T. VAN RENSSELAER; DUMBARTON OAKS

Great Estates

EVERGREEN MUSEUM & LIBRARY Baltimore On 26 acres with Italianate gardens, Evergreen Museum & Library houses a treasure trove of art, including Chinese porcelain and Degas drawings. But it’s just as much an art piece itself. Renovated and reimagined by a 19th-century railroad family, the mansion dazzles with Tiffany lamps, mosaic floors, silver trim and walnut paneling. The upstairs bathroom is a visitor favorite, with a toilet you could justifiably call a throne: The seat is 23-karat gold. Stay: Housed in a restored 1890s mansion, The Ivy Hotel features luxurious rooms, a spa and fine-dining bistro.

BLENNERHASSETT MANSION Parkersburg, W.Va. The Blennerhassett Mansion crowns a river island once owned by Irish aristocrats, now a state park accessible by boat May to October. The Blennerhassetts built their Palladian dream home in 1800, furnishing it lavishly and hosting the cream of society. “It’s a very short, tragic history,” says Miles Evenson, park superintendent. The family lived there only briefly, he explains, before getting caught up in a conspiracy with Aaron Burr that left them destitute. Their mansion was ransacked by the Virginia militia and later burned. Today, a faithful reproduction stands on its foundations, and visitors can enjoy candlelight tours and horse-drawn carriage rides.

DUMBARTON OAKS

Stay: The Blennerhassett Hotel is also a historic landmark. Guests enjoy European-style décor, granite bathroom countertops and triple sheeting.

Washington, D.C. Dumbarton Oaks grew from an 1801 Federal-style home to a sprawling Georgetown mansion, thanks largely to Robert and Mildred Bliss, a diplomat and heiress who purchased it in 1920. The couple added extensive gardens and expanded the building to accommodate their vast art collection. Overhead in the Renaissance-style Music Room is a reproduction of the guardroom ceiling in the Château de Cheverny. The ornate chimneypiece is authentic, acquired from another 16th-century château. This stately setting formed the backdrop of the 1944 Dumbarton Oaks Conversations that led to the formation of the United Nations. Stay: Eaton Hotel, just a mile from the National Mall, has amenities to cater to its mindful clientele: sustainable snacks, curated vinyl records, books and artwork, a wellness center with meditation and organic pillowtop beds.

NEMOURS ESTATE Wilmington, Del. After passing through iron gates imported from a Russian palace, you enter the home of a turn-of-the-century industrialist. Indoors, touches of royalty — a chair from King George VI’s coronation, a portrait of Marie Antoinette — suit the space. Outside, the theme continues in fountains, Italian travertine and a temple to the goddess Diana. “The overall design of the estate is Frenchinspired, from the glass-topped stone walls that surround it to the symmetry of the landscape and the reliance on classical elements such as columns and statues,” says John Rumm, Nemours Estate executive director. “People who’ve been to both places say the estate reminds them of Versailles, which it does, though on a smaller scale.” Stay: The Hotel DuPont, a 12-story Italian Renaissance building in the heart of Wilmington’s financial and legal district, boasts 217 guest rooms amid ornate woodwork, mosaic and terrazzo floors, handcrafted chandeliers and gilded hallways.

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SCOTT HAMILTON’S

Nashville, Tenn. Not only is Scott Hamilton a celebrated Olympic figure skater, he’s also a cancer survivor and author. Hamilton lives in Nashville with his four children and shares some of his favorite places to visit in and around the Music City.

BEST PLACE FOR

A SCENIC DRIVE “Driving the Natchez Trace is beautiful and quiet. Whether you are in a car, (or on a) motorcycle or bicycle, the views are gorgeous, and the experience brings down your blood pressure by 50 percent.” nps.gov/natr

“

BEST PLACE TO

BEST

CATCH A SHOW

COFFEE SHOP

“Easily the Ryman Auditorium. Lately, there are many of the bands I listened to growing up that started to play the Ryman. ZZ Top, Cheap Trick, Ian Anderson of Jethro Tull, and last November, The Doobie Brothers. Awesome place.”

“Honest Coffee Roasters is my favorite place to get a little buzz juice early in the day, or a little later in the day to get through it. Delicious and beautifully presented, they rise above the coffee culture that Nashville celebrates.”

ryman.com

honest.coffee

We love to go to 12th Avenue South. It’s great for food, shopping, strolling, being a tourist and people-watching.” — SCOTT HAMILTON

visitmusiccity.com/ explore-nashville

BEST PLACE FOR

A NIGHT OUT “Where else? Downtown Nashville and all the honky tonks on Broadway and the surrounding streets. There’s music, food, entertainment and my favorite, the Nashville Predators hockey. The best NHL experience!” bridgestonearena.com/teams

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— SARAH SEKULA

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Take a walk through civil rights history BY ROBIN ROENKER

Kelly Ingram Park, Birmingham, Ala.

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CHRIS GRANGER

Lasting Legacy

he civil rights movement in America is a story of resilience and determination. It’s a story of leaders — trailblazers like Martin Luther King Jr., Rosa Parks and Medgar Evers — as well as local heroes and everyday citizens who pushed for equal rights in voting booths, on buses, at schools and lunch counters. It’s also a story of place. The culmination of events across the South in the 1950s and 1960s — historic marches and activism in cities like Birmingham and Montgomery, Ala., Sarasota, Fla., New Orleans and more — helped lead to the passage of the 1964 Civil Rights Act. These iconic, touchstone sites are now part of the United States Civil Rights Trail, which launched in 2018, covering more than 100 sites across 15 states and Washington, D.C. Many of the marquee destinations are in regions along the Gulf Coast. Visiting sites along the trail offers the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of America’s great civil rights leaders and to learn essential truths about the power of the human spirit and the importance of equality for all. “When you’re exploring the civil rights era, you are going to encounter some details that aren’t all that comfortable to talk about because it involves a lot of suffering,” says Michael Morris, director of public relations for the Mississippi Department of Archives and History, which oversees the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum in Jackson. “But at the same time, you leave (the exhibits) thinking, ‘These folks went through a lot, but they were able to accomplish so much.’ It makes you wonder what we can accomplish today, now that we’re not facing those same barriers.”

Rosa Parks Museum

FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF CIVIL RIGHTS ICONS IN ALABAMA

ALABAMA TOURISM DEPARTMENT(2); THE REDMONT HOTEL; JOHN'S CITY DINER

Alabama is home to nearly 30 sites on the U.S. Civil Rights Trail — the most of any state — so it’s a great place to begin your journey. In Montgomery, see the pulpit where the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. preached at Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church. Then, stop by the Rosa Parks Museum, located at the site of her 1955 arrest, for insights on

Parks’ life, her decision not to give up her seat and the communitywide bus boycott that followed. In Birmingham, you can view the actual door from the cell where King wrote his Letter from Birmingham Jail and see a replica Freedom Riders bus, among many other exhibits at the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. “A lot of people, even those who have lived in Birmingham their whole

lives, come through and tell us, ‘I never learned this in my history books,’ ” says Joi Brown, the institute’s marketing manager. While you’re in the neighborhood, make time to visit Kelly Ingram Park, home to several striking statues commemorating the city’s civil rights journey, including Four Spirits, a moving tribute to the four young girls killed in the 1963 bombing at the 16th Street Baptist Church, just across the street.

Edmund Pettus Bridge

The Redmont Hotel — Alabama’s oldest operating hotel — is a 14-story historic landmark that embraces the glamour of its Jazz Age beginnings, while offering newly renovated rooms and easy access to downtown attractions.

John’s City Diner serves Southern comfort food with a gastropub approach, for a new take on favorites like meatloaf and macaroni and cheese.

SOUTHEAST

EXPERIENCE CITIZEN ACTIVISM IN FLORIDA In Sarasota, you can follow the Newtown African American Heritage Trail to learn more about the historic role the African American community played in organizing “wade-ins” at Sarasota’s Lido Beach in the 1950s to advocate for beach integration. The wade-ins drew national media attention at the time, but the community’s push for desegregation dates back as early as 1914, as outlined by the 15 historic markers on the trail. Enjoy a narrated, two-hour trolley tour of the area — often with insights by activists who share their firsthand experiences — from the community history preservation group Newtown Alive. Don’t be surprised if you break out in song along the way: “Spiritual songs took the African American community through some pretty horrific times,” says Vickie Oldham, Newtown Alive’s consultant and community scholar. “Some parts of the story can be sad for some, so we often sing freedom songs on the tour.”

Ruby Bridges

SEE WHERE BARRIERS BROKE DOWN IN LOUISIANA You’ve likely heard of Ruby Bridges, known for bravely integrating New Orleans’ formerly all-white William Frantz Elementary School in November 1960 as a 6-year-old student. Tours of the school — including a statue of Ruby that sits in an interior courtyard — are available on a limited basis with advance notice by contacting Akili Academy, a charter school that now operates within the building. While in New Orleans, be sure to explore the historic Tremé neighborhood, which deems itself America’s oldest African American neighborhood and is home to the New Orleans African American Museum as well as Louis Armstrong Park.

Siesta Key Palms Hotel offers either studios or suites with beach-inspired décor, plus two pools, rentable bikes, and a yoga and activity deck.

Whether you’re craving classic Southern seafood favorites like lobster bisque, shrimp and grits — or even a cheeseburger or Philly Cheesesteak — KaCey’s Seafood & More has you covered.

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Situated in the heart of the French Quarter, Hotel Monteleone is steps away from celebrated restaurants and entertainment. But you may spend the bulk of your time enjoying the hotel’s heated rooftop pool and iconic Carousel Bar & Lounge — the only revolving bar in the city.

Brennan’s has been serving up classic Creole favorites — with a contemporary spin — since 1946. Order the “Taste of New Orleans Dinner,” and you can enjoy Gulf Fish Amandine, followed by Praline Leidenheimer Bread Pudding.

VISIT SARASOTA; ASSOCIATED PRESS; PROVIDED BY THE ESTABLISHMENTS

Newtown Alive tour

isit ra ton

.org

or o r ne t a vent re

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LEARN ABOUT THE MOVEMENT IN MISSISSIPPI

Freedom Rider mug shots

The Westin Jackson offers easy access to the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum and other downtown attractions and features an on-site spa and fitness studio.

Specialties at The Iron Horse Grill in Jackson include stuffed Delta catfish and a French-cut pork chop, but be sure to save room for the Mississippi praline cheesecake. Enjoy live music three nights a week.

Juneteenth reenactment

CELEBRATE FREEDOM IN TEXAS It was in Galveston that Juneteenth — a holiday celebrating the abolition of slavery — began. On June 19, 1865, Union Maj. Gen. Gordon Granger, who had arrived in the city with 2,000 troops the previous day, announced from the balcony of Galveston’s Ashton Villa the freedom of some 250,000 former enslaved persons in Texas. While more than 24 states now celebrate Juneteenth, Galveston marks the holiday’s origin there with more than two weeks of special events each June — including a parade, re-enactments, a gala and barbeque, as well as live music, an emancipation march and a reading of the Emancipation Proclamation from the Ashton Villa balcony.

A Galveston mainstay for more than a century, the Hotel Galvez blends history with touches of modern luxury, including full-day cabana rentals and an on-site spa.

Rudy & Paco serves American steak and seafood staples like bone-in ribeye and grilled salmon — while incorporating South American and Central American flavor profiles.

Explore the 100+ sites of the U.S. Civil Rights Trail — including an interactive state-by-state map — at civilrightstrail.com.

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At the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum in Jackson, you can explore the lives and impact of the state’s civil rights activists such as Medgar Evers, Fannie Lou Hamer and Vernon Dahmer. You’ll also learn how the brutal 1955 murder of teenager Emmett Till affected black residents in the state and throughout the nation. Be on the lookout for Mississippi Freedom Trail historic markers throughout Jackson — and other cities in the state — that highlight important dates and events in Mississippi’s civil rights timeline. With advance notice, you can also schedule a tour of the Medgar Evers Home Museum in Jackson, site of the activist’s 1963 assassination. “People are taken aback, seeing the house restored as it was then and hearing stories about that time,” says museum curator and tour guide Minnie Watson.

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The Little Easy New Orleans isn’t just for grown-ups

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BY DIANE BAIR AND PAMELA WRIGHT

hen we told a New Orleans mom we’d be visiting her city with two kids in tow, her advice was: “Just stay away from Bourbon Street after dark and you’ll be fine.” In fact, we were more than fine — we were enchanted. Who knew that this soulful Southern city would totally charm our children with its albino alligators, spooky stories and sugar-sprinkled beignets? Here’s a sampling of familyfriendly fun in our new favorite city:

SEE ART FOR KIDS BY KIDS Thirteen years in the making, the Louisiana Children’s Museum is a $47.5 milliondollar, 56,000-square-foot space designed for kids ages 10 and younger and includes elements created by them. A 9-year-old conceived an exhibit featuring sounds of the city, and much of the artwork was done by 5- to 7-year-olds. “We’ve created a set of indoor and outdoor experiences that showcase the capacity of the young child,” says museum CEO Julia Bland. Features include a sensory room for infants and toddlers, an exhibit on food and where it comes from (with edible plants), and a Mississippi River display where kids can crank pumps, make dams and enjoy other aquatic activities.

SOUTHEAST | LOU ISI A NA

CONNECT WITH CREATURES

HUNT FOR GHOSTS Wandering around the French Quarter is always interesting, and it doesn’t cost a cent (except maybe for the pralines you’ll ultimately spring for, and tips paid to busking musicians). Shops sell distinctive, colorful wares like Mardi Gras masks, and palm readers ply their trade at Jackson Square. But a tour that caters to kids makes the city really come alive. There are several to choose from, including the Spooky Tour by French Quarter Kids Tours for tykes ages 5 to 10. Led by a teacher, the 90-minute tour begins outside the most haunted house in the city (once owned by actor Nicolas Cage) and gets kids involved looking for the presence of ghosts by following a paper clue left by pirate Jean Lafitte that leads to actual booty. It’s all great fun, interesting for adults as well as youngsters, and not at all nightmare-inducing.

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FRENCH QUARTER KIDS TOUR; AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM

There’s plenty for small hands to touch at the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, including stingrays and sharks in the new touch pool that opened last fall. There’s an albino alligator too, but no touching that one. Kids will be enthralled by the southern sea otters, seahorses and African penguins. “With all the colors and things moving around, even the littlest people are entranced,” says Lauren Messina Conrad, director of public relations for the Audubon Nature Institute. If your kids are more interested in creepy, crawly things, put the Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (a quick stroll down Canal Street from the aquarium) on your itinerary. Insect encounters and edible creatures are among the wonders here, where you’ll gain added appreciation for the largest group of animals on the planet.

FEED A GATOR Alligators are a real comeback story in Louisiana. Endangered in the 1970s, guide Sonny Watts of

MAKE A TRIP OF IT

Cajun Encounters Swamp Tour Company, says there are now roughly 2.5 million of the critters in the state. Plan to see dozens of gators — and perhaps a wild boar named Little Mama — as you cruise through Honey Island Swamp on the Pearl River in Slidell. The guide will stop along the way to feed an alligator a snack pellet on a stick, so kids can see those fierce, spiky gator teeth up close ... but not too close!

NURTURE A LOVE OF NATURE Another place to stretch your legs and get to know the city’s outdoorsy side is the

Audubon Louisiana Nature Center. It’s a

GETTY IMAGES (3); AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE

wonderland of trails, including a 1-mile boardwalk, a 1.3-mile adventure trail and a shorter Discovery Trail, offering a look at Louisiana’s forest ecosystem. Get the skinny on everything you’ve seen at the 4,000-square-foot interpretive center.

SPEND A DAY IN THE PARK A trip to City Park accomplishes two things: It gives the kids a chance to romp around a lovely space that is larger than New York’s Central Park, and you can ride the Carrollton streetcar line. In addition to being the new site of the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the park is home to the recently expanded Besthoff Sculpture Garden, City Putt mini-golf, botanical gardens and Storyland, featuring larger-thanlife fairy tale motifs.

For older kids, additional options include venues such as the National WWII Museum, Mardi Gras World (where you can watch carnival floats being made) and some live jazz clubs. The Maison, on Frenchmen Street, is open to all ages until 10 p.m.

The New Orleans Marriott on Canal Street is a short walk to the French Quarter, the Mississippi riverfront, the Audubon Aquarium and the Insectarium. Plus, the streetcar is accessible right outside this 1,275-room hotel. The on-site Canal Street Pantry is open from 6 a.m. to 1 a.m. for snacks, salads, sandwiches and drinks — convenient for parents and children. Also popular with families is the 285-room Loews New Orleans Hotel. The property is near outlet shopping and attractions, and it partnered with NOLA food purveyors to offer local eats. The venue provides baby strollers and childrens' game tablets, too.

Some of the things you must try on a visit to NOLA include a feather-light beignet — basically, puffed-up fried dough with powdered sugar — at Café Du Monde and a classic muffuletta sandwich at Central Grocery & Deli, a true slice of New Orleans. You don’t have to avoid fine dining just because there are small fries in your party. The venerable Brennan’s offers a kids’ menu and skewers with banana slices or shrimp so children can feed the resident turtles at the turtle pond. The courtyard is always open, so rambunctious kiddos can stretch their little legs between courses. If your kids are Chopped TV show contestants in the making, sign them up for a clinic at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. They offer drop-off cooking classes for kids ages 7 to 11 and a master class for 11- to 14-year-olds.

SOUTHEAST | FLOR IDA

Happy Camper Bond with nature and stargaze all night long BY SUSAN B. BARNES

itch a tent or pull up your camper and be lulled to sleep by the sound of waves lapping on the shore at these beachside campsites on Florida’s Gulf Coast — no white noise app necessary.

Accessible only by private boat, ferry (Captiva Cruises from Captiva Island, Punta Gorda and Pine Island; reservations required) or kayak, campers who stay at Cayo Costa State Park will feel they have the entire 9-mile-long island to themselves. Each of the 30 primitive tent campsites has picnic tables, ground grills and access to potable water, and the nearby restrooms have cold showers and flush toilets. Other than that, campers are on their own to enjoy fishing, swimming, snorkeling, shelling, walking and bicycling along the nature trails, not to mention the 9.5 miles of undisturbed beach. Wildlife spotted from the island may include manatees, dolphins, shorebirds and even sea turtles that nest on the island’s beaches.

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Make sure you visit The Bubble Room, an iconic restaurant on Captiva that has been serving lunch, dinner and fabulous desserts in its distinctive setting for 40 years. If you don’t find enough shells on Cayo Costa, ferry over to the islands of Sanibel and Captiva and perform the “Sanibel Stoop” as you sift through the 400 varieties.

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DESTIN Henderson Beach State Park was established for the preservation and protection of the region’s natural features, including the last remaining coastal scrub area in Destin. The park’s 60 campsites can be reserved up to 11 months in advance and accommodate tents or recreational vehicles with water, electricity, picnic tables and grills. Additional amenities include heated and air-conditioned restrooms with showers and coin-operated washers and dryers. Follow the boardwalk through 30-foot white sand dunes to the pristine, mile-long coastline where you can swim, fish and watch for wildlife.

Overlooking Destin Harbor, nearby Dewey Destin’s restaurant serves up a fresh catch of the day, plus a variety of other seafood options in a casual setting. The calm waters of the Gulf of Mexico are perfect for paddleboarding, and for those who have some experience, Paddle Tribe Co. also offers paddle yoga classes. Fishermen and women will want to visit the Destin History and Fishing Museum, with a mission to preserve and honor the history of the “Luckiest Fishing Village in the World.”

Set up camp for up to 30 nights at Turtle

Beach Campground on Siesta Key,

Siesta Key Oyster Bar

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known for its powder-soft white sand and turquoise waters. Reservations for the 40-plus campsites, which accommodate tents and RVs, can be made up to 12 months in advance. Each campsite includes electricity, water, sewer and free Wi-Fi; laundry facilities and restrooms with showers are centrally located, and a picnic area with grills is available. From May through October, there’s a good chance campers can spot loggerhead and green sea turtles laying eggs and hatching on the beach at night.

Take the free, open-air trolley from the campground to Siesta Key Village, where you can find a variety of dining options, including Siesta Key Oyster Bar, which offers live music. Campers can don their gear and enjoy some of the best snorkeling in the waters around Point of Rocks at Crescent Beach, a short, free trolley ride away.

VISITSARASOTACOUNTY; HENDERSON BEACH STATE PARK

SIESTA KEY

Fort De Soto Park

TIERRA VERDE Locals love to set up camp at Fort De Soto Park, south of St. Pete Beach, and

Henderson Beach State Park

enjoy all of the outdoor activities the park has to offer: fishing, canoeing, kayaking and boating, not to mention its nearly 3 miles of white sand beaches. More than 230 campsites for tents or RVs can be reserved six months in advance; each includes electricity, water, charcoal grills and picnic tables. Modern restrooms with showers, laundry facilities and a camp store are nearby. Campers can also hop the ferry or kayak over to Shell Key Preserve, accessible only by watercraft, for primitive camping. Free permits are required to camp.

Grab a bite to eat or toast the sunset with a waterfront view at Billy’s Stone Crab and Seafood restaurant, which has been serving locals and visitors for more than 40 years. Add a bit of surrealism to your beachside stay with a visit to The Dalí Museum in downtown St. Petersburg, which houses more than 2,400 of artist Salvador Dali's works.

SANTA ROSA BEACH

VISITSTPETECLEARWATER.COM; ALISSA ARYN PHOTOGRAPHY

Grayton Beach State Park on Florida’s

Black Bear Bread Company

Panhandle is considered prime camping real estate with 59 sites that can accommodate tents or RVs. The campgrounds are pet-friendly, come with electricity and water and can be reserved up to 11 months in advance. If you’d rather not camp, 30 two-bedroom, one-bath duplex cabins are also available and feature heating and air conditioning, a kitchen, screened-in porch, outdoor grill and a gas fireplace for cooler winter temperatures. A 4.5-mile hiking and biking trail leads to the backwaters of Western Lake, popular for fishing and paddling.

Start your day with coffee and a pastry at Black Bear Bread Company. They also serve breakfast sandwiches and and tartines such as smoked salmon and avacado. The Grayton Beach Bike Tour, offered by Eventure Tour Co., guides electric bike riders through the beach town to Western Lake and the Gulf of Mexico.

SOUTHEAST | MISSISSIPPI

here. Whether you are an incoming student or just in town for the game, there are now a plethora of fun things to do, from cool places to eat to live music venues and outdoor activities (such as) golf and kayaking.”

ENTERTAINMENT ABOUNDS Hardy Action Theatre hosts monthly performances at Hattiesburg Ballroom & Beyond, and if you want your moment in the spotlight, Keg and Barrel hosts an open mic on Mondays for aspiring comedians. The Thirsty Hippo and

The Thirsty Hippo

Hats off to Hattiesburg This college town offers much more than tailgating BY LICI BEVERIDGE

ith music, restaurants and recreation, Hattiesburg, Miss., is a small town with a lot to offer. Sinclair Lundy has lived in several Mississippi cities, but Hattiesburg is the place she calls home. “Columbus was fun, and it’s another college town,” she says. “Greenwood is where I got my training for finding great things to do, but I only want to live here. It’s more amazing every week.” Andrew Wiest, a history professor at the University of Southern Mississippi (USM), says that “Hattiesburg has come a long way as a university town since my days as a student

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host trivia nights, or you can test your problem-solving skills at College Town Escape Rooms. The city is also a great place to catch musical acts. “Hattiesburg is a way station for bands as they make their way across the Southeast,” says Dave Davies, a USM professor of journalism and public relations. “The Thirsty Hippo is a draw and stopping point for bands as they head to or out of New Orleans.” The Saenger Theatre in downtown Hattiesburg hosts a number of events throughout the year, including national musical and comedy acts. “Downtown has become a studentfriendly, funky nightlife venue,” Wiest says. “Midtown is getting rolling and is right across from campus. And out west is loaded with lots of eating and entertainment options ... every (USM) student should know Hattiesburg’s a vibrant community with tons of stuff going on,” >

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Home to the Georgia National Fairgrounds, Perry is bustling year-round with rodeos, sports championships, agricultural shows, and the Georgia National Fair. Yet, there’s more to Perry than roller coasters and cotton candy... Take a ride on the local side and explore all the unique charms that Perry has to offer!

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Park off U.S. Highway 49 South; kayaking on the Okatoma Creek north of Hattiesburg or Little Black Creek to the southwest; or taking canine family members to one of three dog parks — at Jackson Road Station, Pine Street at Fourth Avenue and in Petal on Dawson Cutoff.

LEARN FROM THE LOCALS

Davies says.

Town Square Park is home to the city’s farmers market on Thursday afternoons March through October. The market features arts activities for children each week and live music and yoga on the first Thursday of each month. Local shops such as The Lucky Rabbit and Captain Kidd’s Treasure House carry antiques and vintage items.

EAT UP “Hattiesburg is as good a food town as you’ll find in Mississippi,” Davies says. “There are tons of local restaurants of every stripe and variety of food." One of Lundy’s favorite downtown hot spots is Blu Jazz Cafe, which opened in 2017 in a small building on Front Street. It outgrew its original space within months and moved to a larger location a block away. The restaurant features weekly live music and serves salads, burgers and nachos, plus seafood options like fried catfish

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and shrimp po’boys.

T-Bones Records and Café not only feeds the city’s need for vinyl records, CDs and books, it also dishes up a variety of soups, salads, sandwiches and coffee drinks or brewed teas. The store also offers a jazz brunch on Sundays and occasional in-store performances. Barbecue is a Southern staple, and the city is home to Leatha’s Bar-B-Que Inn, which boasts NFL quarterback Drew Brees, actor Christian Slater and talk

show host Dan Vega as past customers. Murky Waters BBQ hosts local musicians and offers an extensive menu of drinks and smoked barbecue specialties.

GET MOVING There are multiple recreational activities in the Hattiesburg area. Options include biking, walking or running on the Longleaf Trace, which extends 44 miles from downtown Hattiesburg to Prentiss; a variety of outdoor activities at Paul B. Johnson State

T-Bones Records and Café

Mississippi Armed Forces Museum at Camp Shelby, where they can learn about the state’s role in the military, starting in the 1800s. The African American Military History Museum, located on East Sixth Street, explores the contributions of black Americans to the armed forces. And those curious about civil rights can learn more about Hattiesburg’s role through the Freedom Summer Trail, which takes visitors to 15 locations of historical significance. l — Lici Beveridge writes for the Hattiesburg (Miss.) American.

WILL CROCKER; ELI BAYLIS/HATTIESBURG (MISS.) AMERICAN

Saenger Theatre

Tom Michael is a Hattiesburg native who has lived in several U.S. states as well as various countries such as India and Austria, but returned to the area and now works at Camp Shelby Joint Forces Training Center. “From all the places in the world that I have lived, I’d say Hattiesburgers are so much more friendly than anywhere else,” Michael says. “People say ‘thank you,’ and they ask how you’re doing. I love Hattiesburg, and I think it’s the best place in Mississippi.” Michael recommends vistors make a trip to the

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MASON CROSBY'S

Green Bay, Wis. Although he’s a Texas native, for NFL kicker Mason Crosby, Green Bay, Wis., feels like home. After 13 seasons, Crosby is one of the longest-tenured members of the Green Bay Packers. He shares some of the favorite Green Bay spots he and his family like to visit. — ANNA KATHERINE CLEMMONS

BEST

BEST PLACE TO

INDULGE “My guilty pleasure is ice cream, (or) in this case, it’s gelato. We have a friend in town who owns Sara’s Artisan Gelato. She studied in Italy and has some amazing gelato, made with Wisconsin milk.” sarasartisangelato.com

“

In the summer, we drive up to Door County ... to a place called The Farm, where you can let the kids run around and see a variety of animals. It’s beautiful up there, with great shopping and great food to eat.” — MASON CROSBY

thefarmindoorcounty.com

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MUSEUM “Our favorite place is The Children’s Museum of Green Bay. It has lots of fun, interactive stuff.”

www.browncountywi.gov

gbchildrensmuseum.org

BEST VENUE FOR

ENTERTAINMENT “On Saturday nights, we’ll go to a place called The Bottle Room — a wine bar just north of town. They have live music there on Saturdays. We’ll have a small meal, a glass of wine and listen to music. It’s a fun spot.” the-bottle-room.com

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“There’s a park right by our house called Pamperin Park. It’s a really cool area with lots of trails and a great playground that the kids love.”

GREEN BAY PACKERS; GETTY IMAGES; AMENSON STUDIOS; SARA'S ARTISAN GELATO

PARK

ART IS TRULY EVERYWHERE IN SALINA As you make summer plans, think of Salina, Kansas. We wish you safe travels and want to be part of your recovery memories. #SalinaStrong #6740Wonderful #VisitSalina

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Ryba’s Fudge Shop

Westblade family

Marvelous Mackinac Step back in time on this idyllic island BY KRISTEN A. SCHMITT

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The Pink Pony

he honk of the ferry horn, clop of horse hooves and heady aroma of lilacs mixed with chocolate signal that you’ve arrived on Mackinac Island. Located in Lake Huron between Michigan’s Upper and Lower Peninsulas, the island is a destination steeped in history, nature and relaxation. M-185, the two-lane blacktop highway looping the island, is the only state highway where cars are forbidden; only horses and bicycles are allowed. The road runs parallel to a bustling harbor filled with hundreds of visitors who disembark ferries every hour; some visiting for the day, others for longer, especially if they’ve made a reservation at one of the many bed-and-breakfasts that line the bustling downtown resplendent with historic monuments, gift shops, restaurants and fudge shops. >

PROVIDED BY SHANNON WESTBLADE (2); RYBA'S FUDGE SHOP; THE PINK PONY

Haan’s 1830 Inn

Photo By: M. Sirach

w w w.metropolistourism.com

Come play at Lake McConaughy! Biggest lake in the NE/CO/KS region 55+ square miles of water White sandy shores

Plan your trip at ilovelakemac.com Choose from hotels, lodges & campgrounds Just oďŹ&#x20AC; I-80 at Ogallala, NE

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LIVE THE ISLAND LIFE Want to experience Mackinac like a true islander? Here are a few suggestions from local bed-and-breakfast owner Shannon Westblade:

EAT DINNER IN THE WOODS “I love the whole experience of The Woods (restaurant)” says Westblade. “Getting in the taxi, having the horses take you up through the woods to get to the restaurant … I love the whole package that The Woods provides.” The restaurant is housed in a Tudor mansion in the center of Mackinac Island, surrounded by nature. It’s an upscale but casual eatery where guests can bowl before or after dinner in one of America’s oldest operating duckpin alleys.

SLOW DOWN AND WATCH THE WORLD GO BY Many visitors are there to see the sights, but Westblade recommends other ways to experience the real gift of the island. “I really try to sell sitting in (Marquette Park in front of Fort Mackinac) and looking at the marina or sitting on the porch and watching people and horses go by. ... Going for a

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walk and looking at everyone’s gardens doesn’t sound like something you’d put on your list, but it’s something I always recommend.”

TAKE IN ALFRESCO MARINA VIEWS The Pink Pony is one of the most iconic restaurants on the island, and there’s a reason why. “It will never let you down,” she says. “The food’s always good, and the atmosphere is great, especially if you can get a seat out on the patio where, most nights, there’s live music.” The restaurant’s patio overlooks the island’s marina, creating the perfect setting for enjoying a drink or two.

DO SOME LOCAL SHOPPING If you’re looking for a souvenir, check out Little Luxuries of Mackinac Island. “I really like this store. It has really functional island items like candles, artwork, pillows and stuff for your home,” she says.

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Of course, if you’re up for an amusing experience while you shop, check out Caddywampus, a store filled with ironic, tongue-in-cheek items with an eco-friendly vibe. “If my husband and I are strolling down Main Street, he definitely picks this store to check out.” For any sweet-tooth hankerings, stop by Ryba’s Fudge Shop. The long-adored shop uses a fudge recipe perfected decades ago and also serves saltwater taffy, brittle and caramel corn.

GO OFF THE BEATEN PATH “A lot of people don’t know that mountain biking is a thing on the island, but you could spend all day on single-track trails. It can be pretty challenging.” While the island doesn't have steep elevations, Westblade says, “We have great hills and really technical trails with roots, rocks, cliffs and trees.” If you don’t want to bring your own bike, there are several places on the island to rent bikes by the hour or for the day.

Visitors who turn left down Main Street as they exit the hubbub of the ferry dock will wander past Doud’s Market (a family-owned grocery since 1884), Fort Mackinac (a military outpost established in 1780) and the Mackinac Island Yacht Club (founded in 1937 and home of the annual yacht races) before arriving at the family-owned Haan’s 1830 Inn. “It’s honestly always been my dream to run it even before I inherited it,” says owner Shannon Westblade, who previously worked in the hospitality industry in Montana. “I love helping people have a great vacation.” Haan’s opened in 1980 after Westblade’s grandparents, Vernon and Joyce Haan, decided to buy and remodel the home. In 1988, the business transitioned to Westblade’s parents, Nick and Nancy Haan, who ran the nineroom inn for about 30 years, before Westblade inherited it in 2017. She’s remodeling bathrooms and updating décor. “We want to keep that historical charm, but want to keep things clean and updated,” notes Westblade, adding that rooms are booked nearly 100 percent of the time during the main season, which starts in May and ends in mid-October. For Westblade, “breakfast is the highlight of the day. That’s when the guests come in and you get to chat and learn about them. I remember one time we had the lighthouse keepers. They lived in an actual lighthouse. You really get people from all over the world.” After breakfast, Westblade gets into the nitty-gritty of running a bed-andbreakfast: dishes, baking, laundry, reservations and fitting in errands like trips to the post office or bank — while also juggling a toddler whom she wants to raise to appreciate Mackinac Island like she did as a kid. “Mackinac Island is a great place to grow up,” Westblade says. “It feels more like heaven than other places. When you’re on a walk in the woods you’re connected to the hundreds of years of history, knowing that there were French fur trappers also walking that trail in the woods a couple hundred years ago.” l

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Say Cheese Wisconsin creameries churn out decadent artisanal creations BY KRISTINE HANSEN

GETTY IMAGES

he most common question that Ken Monteleone gets at his Madison, Wis., cheese shop, Fromagination, is "Where can I visit a creamery?" Wisconsin is home to dozens of creameries producing artisanal cheese — earning about 60 percent of the awards at the U.S. Championship Cheese Contest — and its cheesemakers are eager to show off the scene to visitors. With a few days to travel around the state, you can easily delve into veined blue cheese, award-winning Gouda and tangy chèvre while learning more about Wisconsin’s cheese industry. The Dairy State, as it’s rightfully called, isn’t limited to one style of cheese: More than 500 varieties are produced here, representing 26 percent of the nation’s cheese supply. Here are a few Wisconsin creameries to visit: >

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Wildlife Prairie Park Santa Fe Train Caboose Lodging

EnjoyPeoria.com

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Where else

can you take a wilderness hike through a national forest at dawn, enjoy delectable coffee and pastries at a trendy cafe for lunch, peruse a local record store for some fresh vinyl, and catch an evening art exhibit to wind down the evening... all without traveling more than a few miles?

Only Carbondale.

126 S Illinois Avenue Carbondale, IL 62901 618-529-4451 carbondaletourism.org

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DOOR COUNTY CREAMERY Sister Bay Jesse and Rachael Johnson debuted their creamery in 2013. The couple offers a town-and-country-type experience that includes a self-guided tour of the facility in downtown Sister Bay and goat yoga and cheese tastings at the farm a short drive away. Farm tours are offered from May through October. Jesse’s culinary background as a chef at nearby Waterfront Restaurant, as well as cooking in France and Italy, means to-go food served at the creamery is top-notch: goat’s milk gelato, anyone? Culinary gadgets crafted by Wisconsin artisans, as well as Wisconsin wine by the glass are other staples sold in the café.

CLOCK SHADOW CREAMERY Milwaukee One of a handful of urban creameries across the U.S., Clock Shadow opened in an eco-friendly building in Milwaukee’s Walker’s Point neighborhood in 2012. Clock Shadow primarily sources from dairy cows, but also features products from goat’s and sheep’s milk. Owner Bob Wills, who also runs Cedar Grove Cheese in Plain, opened the creamery with a goal of getting fresh curds to the market as quickly as possible. Peer into the world of cheese-making production through the creamery’s glass walls, and afterwards, be sure to sample more local flavor at nearby Purple Door Ice Cream.

LANDMARK CREAMERY Paoli Owned by two women named Anna — Anna Landmark, left, makes the cheese while Anna Thomas Bates operates the café — all but one of the varieties in this creamery’s cheese portfolio is crafted from sheep’s milk. (Tallgrass Reserve folds in cow’s milk from Uplands Cheese’s farmstead cows.) The first cheeses debuted in 2014. Paoli is an artsy town with galleries born into barns and a historic schoolhouse. Lunch at the café features designer grilled-cheese sandwiches, such as the creamery’s Anabasque cheese with red-wine shallot confit. Don’t leave without picking up some cured sausage and jams — all with Wisconsin roots.

MARIEKE GOUDA Thorp Nearly everyone who loves Wisconsin cheese knows the Marieke Gouda brand. Originally from the Netherlands, Marieke Penterman crafts her line in Thorp, in the northwest part of the state. Penterman, along with her husband and five young children, operate the farm, handling tasks such as milking cows and serving breakfast and lunch at Café Dutchess. Summertime means Book in the Barn, a storytelling series where grilled-cheese sandwiches are served to kids seated on hay bales. In 2013, Penterman’s Marieke Gouda Mature (six to nine months) was named Grand Champion of the U.S. Championship Cheese Contest.

Malone Cheesemaker Katie Fuhrmann’s parents have managed this goat farm since the late 1970s. It's a true family business: Katie works with three of her four siblings, with Jessica running the café, Anna overseeing the goats and Greg as plant manager. Some of the cheese names are mashups of the children’s grandmothers’ names. Two years after Katie learned to make cheese, LaClare’s Evalon variety won Best of Show in the 2011 U.S. Championship Cheese Contest, and its Chandoka placed in the top three of two classes in the 2018 World Championship Cheese Contest. (Bonus: You just might find chèvre to take home for a few bucks.)

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PROVIDED BY THE CREAMERIES

LACLARE FAMILY CREAMERY

un ami y- riend y and ree! KING TURKEY DAY

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL

...AT THE CENTER O THE NAT ON

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Trave er info Center of the Nation Monument Historic ohnny Spau ding Cabin estern Museum and gift shop Mon-Sat 9 to 5 Sun 1www.thetristatemuseum.com 6 5- 2 -12

Worthington Area Convention & Visitors Bureau 507-372-2919

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Discover the Mount Rushmore State South Dakota offers presidents, parks and patriotism BY ROBIN ROENKER

Mount Rushmore

ts official nickname may be “The Mount Rushmore State” — appropriate, since that iconic presidential façade is destination-worthy all on its own — but there’s plenty more to see and do in South Dakota, a state rich in both history and breathtaking natural beauty.

MOUNT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MEMORIAL

Custer State Park

Gazing up at those four faces — George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln — carved into the mountainside near Keystone, in South Dakota’s famed Black Hills, is an experience to remember. You’ll be awed by the sheer scale of the memorial, but the history of how it came to be is fascinating, too. Self-guided audio tours (available for $6 from the visitor center) shed light on sculptor Gutzon Borglum’s motivation for the design and factors shaping its construction between 1927 and 1941. Be sure to stay until dark, when the memorial is beautifully illuminated. “The evening lighting

ceremony is one of my favorite things to recommend,” says Katlyn Richter, global media and public relations director for the South Dakota Department of Tourism. “The park rangers explain why each president’s face was chosen. There’s a huge patriotic element, too. The national anthem is played, and the American flag that flew that day is retired, with the help of military service members in attendance. It’s a very moving and meaningful ceremony.”

CUSTER STATE PARK With an array of National Park sites to visit in South Dakota, your first impulse might be to skip a spot with “state park” in its name. Don’t. “You cannot miss Custer State Park. It is a shining star. It is a gem,” says Julie Schmitz Jensen, president and CEO of Visit Rapid City. Set amidst 71,000 acres of pristine natural beauty, the park is home to some 1,300 buffalo, which you can see up-close via guided jeep tours. For a full taste of the Old West, book a room at one of the park’s lodges and enjoy an old-fashioned hayride and chuck wagon feast. >

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH These lesser-known South Dakota attractions are worthy of a visit: WALL DRUG STORE Located in the tiny town of Wall, since 1931 this roadside mecca has been offering food, souvenirs and more, and has become a muststop tourist destination of its own. With plenty to do for kids, including a toy emporium and the chance to pan for gemstones, the store also boasts an on-site restaurant, making it the perfect spot to grab a burger after a full day exploring Badlands National Park.

BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK

CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL

You can explore the almost otherworldly rock formations that permeate Badlands National Park by foot or by car. The park’s popular hiking trails range from easy quarter-mile treks offering views of the so-called Badlands Wall to the 10-mile-round-trip Castle Trail, which puts hikers right in the midst of Badlands formations. For a stunning drive, take Badlands Loop State Scenic Byway, which weaves 38 miles through some of the park’s most photo-worthy landscapes.

Not far from Mount Rushmore, another prominent face emerges from the Black Hills granite: that of legendary Lakota leader Crazy Horse. Conceived by Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear and sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski as a way to honor the culture and contributions of all Native Americans, construction on the memorial started in 1948 and remains underway. Crazy Horse’s face is fully formed, but visitors can watch as workers chisel out his hand and arm. “It’s a lot of work, but it’s beautiful to see it coming along,” says Jadwiga Ziolkowski, the memorial’s CEO and director of public affairs — and daughter to its original sculptor. The on-site Indian

Museum of North America features Indian Museum of North America

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art and artifacts representing more than 300 Native Nations. l

CITY OF PRESIDENTS Following a trip to Mount Rushmore, take more photos with former presidents — all 44 of them — via the popular City President Thomas Jefferson of Presidents statues that dot the street corners of Rapid City. “They’re life-size and beautifully done, and really show the personality of each president,” says Julie Schmitz Jensen, president and CEO of Visit Rapid City. DEADWOOD A National Historic Landmark, the former mining town of Deadwood still boasts plenty of Old West fun, including daily reenactor “shootouts” along Main Street. Tour an authentic gold mine; visit the Adams Museum, with artifacts linked to Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane; and end the day with a modern taste of fun at one of the area’s many breweries, wineries, spas or casinos. — Robin Roenker

WWW.TRAVELSOUTHDAKOTA.COM; VISIT RAPID CITY; CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL FOUNDATION

Badlands National Park

MINUTEMAN MISSILE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Dive deep into America’s Cold War history at this decommissioned nuclear missile site in Philip. The visitor center features exhibits outlining the technology and science behind the ballistic missiles once at the ready there. With advanced reservations, you can take a ranger-led tour of the site’s underground Delta-01 Launch Control Facility.

MEET THE LOCALS

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Donut-cha Wanna Eat Your Way Through Ohio? Taste how sweet the heartland is on this 80-mile doughnut trail BY MATT ALDERTON

2 MAG NAME XXXXXXXXXX

Holtman’s Donuts

BUTLER COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU; MAP ILLUSTRATION: HAYLEIGH CORKEY

f you’re obsessed with wine, an obvious place to fill your glass is Napa Valley. If you crave steak, Chicago’s probably king. And if pizza is your jam, New York is a top contender. But let’s face it, for foodies, sometimes the only way to shush a hangry stomach is with something sweet. And few things are sweeter than the simple, humble doughnut, with its unofficial epicenter being wholesome — or rather, hole-some — Butler County, Ohio. BUTLER COUNTY Situated like jelly filling between Dayton and Cincinnati, Butler County has one of the highest ratios of doughnut shops per capita in the Midwest, according to the Butler County Visitors Bureau (BCVB), which says the region is home to one doughnut shop for every 19,000 residents. You can experience all of them by traveling the Butler County Donut Trail, a string of locally owned doughnut shops where the offerings promise to make your fried-dough dreams come true. Forget Disneyland. To some people — including certain sweet-toothed travel writers — Butler County might be the happiest

place on Earth. “People just really love a doughnut,” says BCVB Vice President of Marketing and Communications Tracy Kocher. “When you go into a doughnut shop, you can’t help but be happy. It’s a joyous experience.” The Butler County Donut Trail debuted in January 2016. Spanning 80 miles, it takes approximately 4.5 hours to complete, which trailgoers can tackle in a single, sugar-packed outing or piecemeal over the course of several days, weeks, months or even years — whatever their schedules and stomachs permit. “You can do it at whatever pace you’d like,” states Kocher, who recommends downloading a “passport” from BCVB’s website or picking one up at its welcome center in West Chester or at any of the trail’s 12 shops. When they get their passport stamped at each shop and return it either in person or by mail, visitors receive a free T-shirt that reads, “I Dared to Donut … You Jelly?” More than 23,000 people — including visitors from 22 countries and all 50 states — have dared to doughnut, according to Kocher, who >

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Jupiter Coffee & Donuts

More than 23,000 people — including visitors from 22 countries and all 50 states — have visited the Butler County Donut Trail.

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says visitors should feel good instead of guilty about indulging because every calorie consumed puts a coin in local businesses’ coffers. One of those businesses is Kelly’s Bakery in Hamilton. Started in 2015 by manager Kelly Hansel and her mother, owner Diana Ramsey, it was just a year old when the Butler County Donut Trail debuted. “The Donut Trail has created a significant economic impact,” Hansel says. “We’ve seen people from all over the world in our shop, and that’s because of the Donut Trail. It definitely has impacted the amount of traffic that comes

through our doors. We’re very fortunate.” Each doughnut trail stop is unique. Kelly’s Bakery, for example, has a retro design with teal walls, black-andwhite floors and diner-style tables and is known for its toppings, including sprinkles, chocolate chips, crushed cookies, marshmallows and cereal. Its signature offering, the Buckeye, is a yeast doughnut that looks like a deer’s eye, thanks to its chocolate frosting and peanut butter cream filling. Another standout is Jupiter Coffee & Donuts in Fairfield, which is known for gourmet coffee and “goofy” creations,

according to owner Cindy Wallis, who likes to thematically decorate both her shop and her doughnuts. In March, for example, she celebrates J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter franchise with Harry-themed pastries and décor. And every July, things get fishy for Discovery Channel’s Shark Week programming. “We just really like to have fun here,” says Wallis, whose signature doughnuts are the Red Storm Roll and the Miami Maple Merger. Named for the planet Jupiter’s Great Red Spot, the former features raspberry filling and cream cheese frosting. The latter — a nod to Wallis and her husband, who met at Ohio’s Miami University — is topped with candied pecans and maple fluff icing that’s made with locally sourced syrup. Maple also is a star ingredient at Holtman’s Donuts in West Chester, where the signature confection is the Maple Bacon doughnut, topped with maple icing and crispy bacon bits. Co-owner Katie Plazarin opened the shop in 2017 with her husband, Danny, whose family inherited the original Holtman’s from his grandfather and has subsequently expanded it. Besides eating them, of course, the highlight at Holtman’s is watching bakers cut, fry and decorate doughnuts through the large window that overlooks the kitchen. “It’s breakfast and a show,” Katie says. One word of caution: On the Donut Trail, the “show” starts early, as some shops close when they run out of doughnuts (sometimes as early as 10 a.m.). So set your alarm and chart a course for the tasty treats and caffeine that await. l

BUTLER COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU

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Holtman's Donuts

TASTE THE BUTLER COUNTY DONUT TRAIL These 12 Ohio shops welcome you with an array of sweets and treats:

CENTRAL PASTRY SHOP Signature Doughnut:

The Ugly (glazed, oldfashioned cake doughnut) HOLTMAN’S DONUTS Signature Doughnut:

Maple Bacon

MIMI’S DONUTS & BAKERY Signature Doughnut:

Peanut Butter Reese’s Cup OXFORD DOUGHNUT SHOPPE Signature Doughnut:

Kettle-Fried Red Velvet JUPITER COFFEE & DONUTS Signature Doughnut:

Red Storm Roll (raspberry filling, cream cheese frosting) KELLY’S BAKERY Signature Doughnut:

Buckeye (chocolate frosting and peanut butter cream filling) MARTIN’S DONUTS Signature Doughnut:

Twisted Sister (twisted plain, chocolate) MILTON’S DONUTS Signature Doughnut:

ROSS BAKERY Signature Doughnut:

Klunker (triangularshaped cake doughnut) STAN THE DONUT MAN Signature Doughnut:

Pineapple Fritter THE DONUT HOLE BY MILTON’S Signature Doughnut:

Fried Cream Cheese Danish THE DONUT SPOT Signature Doughnut:

Raspberry Cheesecake

Oreo

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DANIELLE LEONI'S

Phoenix

A James Beard Award 2020 semifinalist, chef Danielle Leoni’s restaurant, The Breadfruit & Rum Bar, has also been lauded for its sustainable practices. Outside the kitchen, Leoni takes advantage of many of Phoenix’s cultural gems. — LISA DAVIS

BEST

PIZZA

BEST

DAYTRIP “If I’m going to hit the road, you’ll find me heading northbound to Cottonwood. On the Main Street stretch, there are wine tasting rooms and great food. It’s surrounded by beautiful Arizona scenery that beckons for you to discover a waterfall, babbling river or take a picnic in the woods.” visitcottonwoodaz.org

“

The best part of city life in Phoenix is that it’s truly central — an urban core with the most progressive places to dine, drink and explore all surrounded by breathtaking desert views.” visitphoenix.org

grandavenuepizza company.com

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SHOPPING “Antique Sugar (is) an incredible vintage store; Bunky Boutique for cool Arizona T-shirts; MADE for artistic, locally made goods.” antiquesugar.com; bunkyboutique.com; madephx.com

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CULTURAL INSPIRATION “The Phoenix Art Museum is a work of art in itself and houses a labyrinth of art spanning centuries. There’s always a thought-provoking art installation amid beautiful grounds, a lovely café and even a theater.” phxart.org

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BEST

PROVIDED BY DANIELLE LEONI/THE BREADFRUIT & RUM BAR; BUNKY BOUTIQUE; BILL TIMMERMAN; VISIT COTTONWOOD

“Grand Avenue Pizza Company optimizes the artistic funky awesomeness of downtown Phoenix. They support Arizona agriculture, use local and organic, all their dough is non-GMO and everything is made from scratch. Beat that!”

Welcome!

Morgan County, Colorado is Where Prairie Meets the ky Only an hour drive from metro Denver on nterstate 7 , find clear blue skies, waves of rich farmland and the beauty of the winding outh Platte River. o crowds, just jam-packed experiences! Plunge into the outdoors, or be a Pioneer transcend across the unknown. We re ready when you re ready, just breathe - beauty awaits. Enjoy frisbee golf, hiking, Pawnee Butes, scavenging for barn uilts with our drive tour, biking with the family, exploring the Texas Cattle Montana Trail, going for a morning hunt, or admiring the river off the Rainbow Bridge.

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National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame

Fort Worth on Foot Discover museums, shopping and restaurants in one walkable area BY RINA RAPUANO

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Art Museum, Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame, Amon Carter Museum of American Art and the Fort Worth Museum of Science and History. During a recent visit, I fueled up for a day of exploration with breakfast at Righteous Foods, which serves healthy acai bowls, hearty omelets, excellent juices and flavorful coffees. This spot positions you nicely for a 15-minute walk southward to the National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame or

the Fort Worth Museum of Science and History, situated next door to one another in the Will Rogers Memorial

Center. I opted to hit the cowgirl museum — and even though I was interested and optimistic, I was still pleasantly surprised by how fun this place is. From the moment you look up in the atrium and see the slowly moving mobile and realize some portions are actually screens that show videos, you know this is going to be an entertaining experience.

NATIONAL COWGIRL MUSEUM AND HALL OF FAME

n case you hadn’t noticed, Fort Worth, Texas, is a lot more than a name tacked on to the end of a Dallas airport. And while Fort Worth is a mere 32 miles west of the Big D, the city affectionately known as Cowtown feels worlds apart with its relaxed, salt-of-the-earth cowboy vibe. That doesn’t mean Fort Worth lacks sophistication, as a visit to the city’s vibrant cultural district proves. The area is a walkable treasure chest of museums — including the Kimbell

KIMBELL ART MUSEUM; GETTY IMAGES (2)

The second floor reopened last year after a $5.5 million renovation that focused on how horses, women and the West intersect in the areas of ranching, competing, healing, business and inspiration. Yes, there are the expected outfits and artifacts, but there’s also the Wonder Woman costume worn by Gal Gadot in the 2017 movie and a gorgeous collection of Hermès scarves with Native American motifs. This new space feels modern, cool and edgy. A short walk north brings you to the the Kimbell Art Museum, a stunning modern building designed by renowned American architect Louis I. Kahn. This free gallery showcases a collection of masterpieces from Michelangelo’s first known painting to early 20th-century stars like Edgar Degas and Henri Matisse to abstract 1980s sculptures dotting the lawn. From there, you can mosey across the street to the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, housed in a light-bathed space thanks to soaring ceilings and windows to match. The permanent collection of nearly 2,600 objects — including some on the grounds — focuses on post-World War II art employing a variety of media. By now, you’re probably feeling a bit peckish, which means it’s time to head east to Crockett Row for a bite. If you’re not sure what you’re craving, you can't go wrong at the Food Hall. The 16,000square-foot facility features a dozen food-and-drink concepts ranging from Mexican street food to Hawaiian poke to Belgian waffles. Sushi fans might want to take the few extra steps beyond Crockett Row to indulge in fish and rice tucked into seaweed at Hatsuyuki Handroll Bar, which was named one of Yelp’s Top 100 Restaurants of the Year for 2019. There’s still plenty to explore in the cultural district after lunch, including the Fort Worth Botanic Garden, Casa Mañana Theatre and other museums, but it might be time to rest up for a visit to what claims to be the world’s largest honky-tonk, Billy Bob’s Texas — because we all know culture doesn’t exist solely within the walls of museums.

Kimbell Art Museum

Modern Art Museum

Fort Worth Botanic Garden

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Breathtaking Beauty Embrace your inner explorer at Zion National Park STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH SEKULA

he rock spires known as hoodoos transport me back to childhood, when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d spend hours making drip castles in the sand. They have that same lumpy structure, like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. Likewise, walking amongst these giants, ranging from a few feet to 10 stories tall, makes me feel quite small and very giddy. >

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ALPINE TX

your BIG BEND starts here

ÂŠ E. Dan Klepper

Texasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Big Bend region boasts spectacular national and state parks in a desert mountain landscape. From Alpine, you can enjoy shopping, dining, live music and easy day trips to Marfa, McDonald Obser vator y and more. For information, give us a call at (432) 837-2326 or

visitalpinetx.com

WEST | U TA H

I’m on a hoodoo hunt at Zion National Park, which celebrated its 100th anniversary as a national park last year. The crumbly spires have been here for 30 million to 40 million years. The hoodoos are especially brilliant before dawn or around sunset, glowing in shades of red, orange and tan. They are challenging to find here, but one thing is certain: There are many ways to explore the rest of the park. Hiking is highly recommended. Full-day excursions to Zion National Park will have you walking some seriously amazing terrain, including The Narrows, the slimmest section of Zion Canyon, where the walls rise 1,000 feet. A hike will have you trekking through zebra-striped slot canyons and wading in the Virgin River. Just ask Kim Menninger, a California resident who has hiked The Narrows twice. “It was, hands down, the highlight of our trip,” she says. “There is nothing like hiking through a canyon with water rushing around you and natural beauty everywhere you look.” Her warning: “Even the most skilled hikers and guides can end up in the water,” she says. “Walking sticks and good water shoes make the world of a difference.” Another Narrows hiker, Jerrilyn Bogart, agrees. “The depth of the water surprised me a couple times,” she recalls. “It was a really nice September day, and I still got into chest-deep water a few times. It makes you understand the danger you face if a sudden rain shower comes through.” After a full day of exploring, it’s time to relax. If you prefer the luxe route, make your way to Red Mountain Resort, a holistic retreat in St. George, Utah. A bit of a drive from Zion, it’s a solid choice

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for blissful exhaustion and restorative pampering (like cactus gel wraps, gentle yoga and sleep-tonic massages). Another way to soak up Zion’s grandeur is by glamping in an Under Canvas luxury tent on the park border. Choose from tents with adjacent tepees or suites that sleep five. At your fingertips: a wood-burning potbelly stove, comfy beds and private bathrooms. Days begin with a hearty breakfast, then it’s time for rock climbing, a hot air balloon ride or stand-up paddleboarding. For something a little more strenuous, try your hand at canyoneering (an epic combination of rappelling, scrambling, hiking and swimming). Basically, it’s impossible to be bored. Last but not least, try living

the #vanlife by renting a teardrop camper or rooftop tent from Off the Grid Rentals in St. George. You’ll need a vehicle capable of towing the camper (or supporting the tent) and some food supplies. If you rent a teardrop camper, be sure your vehicle has a towing capacity of 2,500 pounds. For rooftop tents, the vehicle needs to have flat roof racks. Teardrop campers sleep up to five adults and offer storage space, a solar panel, a 12-volt battery, a propane stove and cooking utensils. Rooftop tents have a full-size memory foam mattress that sleeps two. Both are a step up from tent camping and make for a neat way to experience southern Utah’s national parks, state parks and national monuments. l

Zion National Park offers a variety of hiking trails with varying levels of difficulty.

WEST | OK L A HOM A

Finger Lickin’ Good Taste the crunchified goodness of chicken-fried steak

’m a Southerner through and through, which means that most of my favorite foods are fried. Fried okra, crispy, salty and fresh from hot grease. Smothered pork chops that were dredged through flour with specks of black pepper and seasoned salt, then dipped in buttermilk making for a crunchy coating. And my less talked-about favorite: chicken-fried steak. Although the exact origins are impossible to determine, chicken-fried steak is strikingly similar to schnitzel and was likely introduced by German immigrants to the Hill Country of Texas. Several Oklahoma establishments have gained rousing reputations for their versions, and you can find your favorite by visiting one (or more!) of these spots, based on USA TODAY’s 10Best readers’ picks:

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CHEEVER’S CAFE Oklahoma City An OKC favorite for its contemporary comfort food, Cheever’s Cafe serves a stellar chicken-fried steak with jalapeño cream gravy and a side of garlic red-skinned mashed potatoes.

PROVIDED BY THE RESTAURANTS

BY NNEKA OKONA

THE RED B RESTAURANT Idabel An off-the-beaten-path gem in the town of Idabel, The Red B Restaurant is known for its hearty three-course meals of made-fromscratch food. The hand-cut, deep-fried chicken-fried steak is tender enough to cut with a fork.

CHARLESTON’S RESTAURANT Multiple locations The chicken-fried steak is a house specialty at Charleston’s Restaurant’s 10 locations across Oklahoma. The hand-breaded steak is fried and served with black pepper chipotle gravy, mashed potatoes and glazed carrots.

BLACK BEAR DINER Five locations The Bigfoot Chicken Fried Steak from Black Bear Diner is made with tender beef that’s breaded, deep-fried and covered in house-made country gravy. The steak comes with either soup or salad, as well as a freshly baked corn muffin, mixed veggies or Italian green beans, and a choice of mashed potatoes, french fries, onion rings or a baked potato.

THE PIONEER WOMAN MERCANTILE Pawhuska The chicken-fried steak at The Mercantile, helmed by Food Network personality Ree Drummond and her husband, Ladd, begins with a beef rib-eye that's pounded, breaded and griddled. It’s topped with creamy gravy and served with mashed potatoes, a salad, freshly baked dinner rolls and the Pioneer Woman’s Cowboy Butter. Smaller appetites can order a half portion.

SUNNYSIDE DINER Oklahoma City Breakfast is the name of the game at Sunnyside Diner, where big appetites can feast on chicken-fried steak with eggs and two sides, or à la carte.

SAVOY RESTAURANT Tulsa The kitchen at Savoy Restaurant only uses choice top round beef, cut and tenderized in-house, for its chicken-fried steak. Seasoned only with salt, the steak is cooked on the flattop and served with house-made gravy at lunch or with eggs and choice of hash browns, home fries or grits for breakfast. Make sure you get there early — the Savoy closes at 2 p.m. daily.

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

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Honoring First Americans Long-awaited museum has a new name

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The new museum will showcase cultural artifacts from Oklahoma's 39 tribal nations.

tions to our state,” says Bill Anoatubby, Chickasaw Nation governor and chairman of the Native American Cultural and Educational Authority, the state agency building the facility. “Tribes are an active and stabilizing force in Oklahoma with deep and permanent roots. Through this museum, we carry forward our stories and culture for the benefit of all Americans today and in the future.”

SHANE BROWN; MATT BROWN/FIRST AMERICANS MUSEUM

he much anticipated American Indian Cultural Center and Museum in Oklahoma City is getting a new name. Last December, city and tribal officials announced the facility will be called the First Americans Museum (FAM). Construction on the 175,000-square-foot facility, expected to open next spring, began in 2006 but was delayed for years after the project ran out of funds and the local legislature refused to allocate more. An agreement was ultimately reached in 2016 between the city, state and tribal nations to finish construction. “As we approach the opening of this world-class museum, I was in full agreement with the leadership of the initiative that it was appropriate to move forward with a brand that truly reflects the story we’re going to tell here,” says Oklahoma City Mayor David Holt. “As a proud Osage and a proud mayor, I am thrilled to see this exciting project move forward as the First Americans Museum. FAM will be a unique, global destination where we celebrate our native culture and the 39 tribal nations in Oklahoma today.” The museum, located along the bank of the Oklahoma River just south of downtown Oklahoma City, will house artifacts that tell the history of the state’s federally recognized tribes. It will showcase art, host educational programs and include a family discovery center with immersive activities. A full-service restaurant will offer Native American-inspired cuisine, and the museum store will sell authentic handmade items created by First American artists. “This cultural center and museum will serve as a dynamic venue where tribal voices celebrate Native American culture and contribu-

WHERE TRADITIONS BEGIN.

PACIFIC | M Y TOW N

JEANNIE MAI’S

San Jose, Calif. Growing up in San Jose with a Vietnamese father and a part-Chinese mother, The Real co-host Jeannie Mai says she found it easy to embrace her multiethnic heritage. Though she lives in Los Angeles, Mai returns home regularly to reacquaint herself with the sights, sounds and tastes of the Bay Area. — ALLISON W. ENTREKIN

BEST PLACE TO

SHOP

BEST

RESTAURANT “You have to get the sizzling catfish dish at Thiên Long. Every time I take someone there, they say it’s the best dish they’ve ever had.” yelp.com/biz/thien-longvietnamese-restaurant-san-jose

“

Day or night, there’s always something going on in downtown San Jose. The culture is flowing, there are cool-looking kids and there’s live music everywhere.” — JEANNIE MAI

sjdowntown.com

simon.com/mall/ stanford-shoppingcenter

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DAY TRIP “Growing up, we’d take the family van to the Santa Cruz Wharf. I loved going to the penny arcade, buying saltwater taffy and feeding the sea lions.” cityofsantacruz.com

BEST PLACE TO

HANG OUT “I’m a huge supporter of preserving aquatic life, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium is extraordinary. I’ve been a member (for) 14 years because it’s absolutely magical.” montereybayaquarium.org

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BEST

GETTY IMAGES (2); MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM; VISIT SAN JOSE

“I am obsessed with the Stanford Shopping Center. You can collect the coolest pieces at every price, and they have great handmade shops and vintage collections.”

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Toast to the distinct character of this lively seaside community, located only a short distance from some of California’s ﬁnest wineries.

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PACIFIC | C A L IFOR N I A

The Need for Speed Buckle up for luxury life in the fast lane BY MATT ALDERTON

alifornia and cars naturally go together, but driving in the Golden State is a head with two faces. You can see the first on any given day in Los Angeles, where the average resident spends 128 hours in traffic every year. An exasperated grimace, it snarls like the motorists on the 405 Freeway, who spend rush hour crossing town like snails through a garden. If one face is enraged, the other is elated. An uncontrollable grin emerges while driving a sports car through the Hollywood Hills, a convertible down the Pacific Coast Highway or a classic car down Beverly Drive. Or better yet, while burning rubber at the BMW Performance Center West in Thermal, Calif., 30 miles south of Palm Springs. I experienced the latter on a sizzling Thursday in July. Although the temperature outside was a skin-searing 115 degrees, the air conditioning was utterly arctic inside my BMW M3 Competition — one of four BMWs I sampled during my two-hour visit. Still, I sweated through my shirt. Blame it on the G-force, which at speeds of up to 120 mph agitated the adrenaline in my body like a cocktail in a shaker. Under its hood, the car’s engine was wrestling the laws of physics. Under my own hood, however, the only thought my brain could muster was, “This is crazy fun.” That’s what the luckiest drivers experience every time they get behind the wheel of their high-performance luxury vehicle: fun. If your commute typically elicits any other ‘f’ words, it might be time to learn how the other half drives.

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(The Porsche Experience Center) is like an adult theme park except there are no long lines, and the food is exceptional.” — JENNIFER MALACARNE, CENTER MANAGER

PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER LOS ANGELES Carson

PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER (2); GINA TOOLE SAUNDERS; BMW PERFORMANCE CENTER WEST

Driving a Porsche is a quintessential bucket list item for many car enthusiasts. You can cross it off yours at the Porsche Experience Center Los Angeles, where showcasing the Porsche ethos while molding safer drivers is the goal. Opened in 2016, the 60,000-square-foot facility features a rotating race car exhibit, a fine-dining restaurant serving Porsche-inspired cuisine, a simulator lab where visitors can experience world-famous racetracks from behind the wheel of a virtual Porsche, and a 4.1-mile driver development track where visitors can learn new skills while putting latemodel Porsches through their paces. The driver development track features eight training modules, including two handling circuits, an ice hill, an off-road course, a dynamics pad for agility training, an acceleration straight for fullthrottle driving, a low-friction handling circuit, a low-friction circle and a hydraulic kick-plate

for skidding and spinning. During personalized 90-minute experiences with a professional instructor ($450 to $1,095), visitors can choose any Porsche and any combination of modules. The Porsche Experience Center “is like an adult theme park except there are no long lines, and the food is exceptional,” says center manager Jennifer Malacarne.

BMW PERFORMANCE CENTER WEST Thermal For more than 40 years, BMW’s motto has been “The Ultimate Driving Machine.” The BMW Performance Center West was designed to show consumers why. Opened in 2015, it now occupies 32 acres of The Thermal Club, a private motorsports country club. Its members generously share BMW's three professionally designed racetracks. There’s also a dedicated BMW track; a polished wet skid pad; an 8,500-square-foot building with classrooms and a café; and a fleet of 100 BMWs and 20 MINIs. Visitors can enroll in a one- or two-day Car Control School ($849 to $1,699) or purchase a two-hour Performance Drive Experience ($299). The former are all about the drivers, who receive instruction in areas like vehicle handling and accident avoidance. The latter, on the other hand, are all about the vehicles, which strut like models on a runway as they show off their superior engines. During the two-hour BMW performance drive, visitors choose from a menu of highspeed programs. They can zip around a handling course in four different BMW models or enter a timed autocross, where they compete to get the fastest lap. There’s also the one-hour M Track Drive ($299), which >

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includes six circuits around one of The Thermal Club’s professional tracks. Each program ends with a “hot lap,” during which visitors sit in the passenger seat as a professional driver races around the track at top speeds. “This is about as much fun as you can have in a car,” says operations manager Stephen Saward. “BMWs can perform all day long with a high degree of performance, safety and responsiveness. You can’t necessarily capture that on a test drive at a dealership.”

LAND ROVER EXPERIENCE DRIVING CENTER Carmel-by-the-Sea If brands were people, Land Rover would be a brawny outdoorsman with impeccable style — at once rugged and refined. At the Land Rover Experience Driving Center at the Quail Lodge & Golf Club, visitors sample both power and panache during off-road driving lessons and adventures. The first Land Rovers “weren’t really about luxury and comfort,”

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says instruction manager Justin Demayo. “They were used heavily on farms and … off-road for hunting and fishing. They became luxury vehicles over time, but they have not strayed away from their heritage.” Land Rover proves that every day to center visitors, who can book one-hour, two-hour, half-day or full-day experiences ($275 to $1,200) in any current model, as well as half- or full-day “Heritage” experiences ($1,200 to $1,500) in a 1997 Defender 90. Whatever the program, expect equal parts education and adventure as your instructor guides you over wooded off-road trails packed with steep inclines and descents, hairpin turns, rocks, logs, water crossings and mud — obstacles that begin to look like opportunities from behind the wheel of a Land Rover.

LINCOLN EXPERIENCE CENTER Newport Beach Luxury driving isn’t all — or even mostly — about horsepower. It’s about creature comfort and exceptional service.

Visitors can use interactive tech to custom design a new Lincoln.

That’s what Lincoln showcases at its Lincoln Experience Center on Newport Beach’s Fashion Island. The facility features a lounge, a café, a “Story Wall” that teaches about the brand, an interactive studio where visitors can design their own vehicles and a listening room where audiophiles can experience the Revel audio systems that make Lincoln vehicles sound as good as they drive. The center also offers complimentary 30-minute test drives in the latest Lincoln vehicles. For out-of-towners, this provides an ideal way to experience not only Lincoln, but also Southern California, as test drives can take visitors on the iconic Pacific Coast Highway, through Newport Beach and up scenic Newport Coast Drive. “We seek to bring local California experiences to life,” says Lincoln Client Experience Manager Becca Anderson. “There’s so much more to our brand than our vehicles. We also want people to experience our effortless service and hospitality.” l

LINCOLN EXPERIENCE CENTER; LAND ROVER EXPERIENCE DRIVING CENTER

PACIFIC | C A L IFOR N I A

IT’S SO LEAVENWORTH IT

From the Bavarian-inspired culture, charm, and experiences, to the alpine adventures here in the heart of the Cascades. Don’t just escape the everyday. Leavenworth it. LEAVENWORTH.ORG

PACIFIC | SE AT T L E

Exploring Emerald City Discover natural beauty in and around Seattle

eattle offers countless riches to its residents and visitors. Chief among them: natural beauty that simply cannot be beat. Whether the skies are gray or blue (which they are more often than the rumors suggest), it’s imperative that you pencil in sufficient time to explore the great outdoors. Here’s where you should go, according to USA TODAY’s 10Best:

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GAS WORKS PARK On the north end of Lake Union, this 21-acre former gas plant was transformed in 1975 into a recreational complex. Activities in the park include kayaking, sailing, picnicking and bicycling. From atop the park’s 60-foot hill, visitors enjoy some of Seattle’s best views and can watch seaplanes taking off and landing.

GETTY IMAGES

BY C ORINNE W HITING

SEATTLE PARKS & RECREATION (2); FARZAD KHOSROWNIA

MAGNUSON PARK The second-largest park in Seattle, it includes pieces of the city’s military past (it’s situated on the former Sand Point Naval Air Station at Pontiac Bay, Lake Washington). Visitors can enjoy boating, walking, kiteflying and swimming. The beach here includes a tiny pebble shoreline, the perfect gateway to refreshing waters that average 67 degrees during summer months. Grassy flats west of the beach provide perfect lounging territory, and guests can also find a children’s wading pool, picnic shelters and tables nearby.

HIRAM M. CHITTENDEN LOCKS AND CARL S. ENGLISH JR. BOTANICAL GARDEN Built more than a century ago, these locks (known locally as Ballard Locks) offer a fascinating lesson in technology from days gone by. Observe ships and sailing vessels as they enter the locks and — following a series of mechanical adjustments — depart into Puget Sound, Lake Union or Lake Washington at a completely different water level. Visitors can also see salmon run from fresh to salt water (June through October and March through April). And be sure not to miss the 7-acre Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden, which hosts nearly 2,000 varieties of plant life.

DISCOVERY PARK Situated on Magnolia Bluff overlooking Puget Sound, Seattle’s largest park offers 2 miles of beach trails, 9 miles of winding footpaths and breathtaking views of the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges. Ostensibly a bluff-top reserve, Discovery Park protects a remarkable urban wilderness and is a great place for nature-watching. The Daybreak Star Indian Cultural Center, which features art and cultural exhibits, is also located at the park, as is a marine reserve. Pack a picnic to enjoy on the beach near the West Point Lighthouse; built in 1881, it is the oldest lighthouse in the area.

WOODLAND PARK Located on approximately 90 acres, this multipurpose park and recreation space is just southwest of Green Lake and north of the Fremont district. Bisected by Aurora Avenue, the part to the west of Aurora is largely occupied by the Woodland Park Zoo, but it also has picnic space, a formal rose garden, open fields and a play area for children. East of Aurora, you’ll find an ideal spot for picnicking, as well as grills, trails and an off-leash dog area.

OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK Stroll the 9-acre grounds and admire the fascinating large-scale works on display. Extensive landscaping enhances the park’s beauty, and a walkway, extending from the beach to Belltown, provides views of Puget Sound and downtown landmarks. Among the pieces on view along the way are Eye Benches I, II, III by Louise Bourgeois, a series of functional carvedgranite benches that take the form of giant eyeballs, and The Eagle, a work from famed sculptor Alexander Calder.

GREEN LAKE PARK This park attracts joggers, in-line skaters and sunbathers who exercise and bask along the greenbelt that circles Green Lake, the park’s picturesque centerpiece. The area also serves as a natural preserve for hundreds of species of trees and plants, as well as for numerous birds and waterfowl. Make sure to visit the Green Lake boating house, which offers rowing, canoeing, kayaking and sailing rentals.

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

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PACIFIC | C A L IFOR N I A

Rockets and Rosé Enjoy liftoffs and libations on California’s central coast BY AMY WU

ou don’t have to be a space fanatic to appreciate viewing a live rocket launch — especially if it later involves wine. On California’s Central Coast, pairing the two is an unforgettable experience. Vandenberg Air Force Base, about 10 miles northwest of Lompoc, Calif., is one of two spaceports in the U.S. that conducts government and commercial rocket launches viewable by the public. But what elevates Vandenberg is its proximity to great wineries. With some careful planning — and a flexible attitude — you can bookend your day with both. Start by visiting spaceflightnow.com, which provides updated information on launch scheduling, delays and cancellations. Check often, as mission details and weather dictate launch times. My friend, a native Californian who spent a decade working in the aerospace industry, talked me into watching a rocket launch in May 2018. We planned to watch the InSight Mars lander launch aboard an Atlas V-401 rocket, heading on a six-month journey to research the Red Planet.

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Santa Maria Inn

SR. AIRMAN IAN DUDLEY; SANTA MARIA INN

Minuteman III launch

CASA DUMETZ WINES; THE BUBBLE SHACK

Casa Dumetz

Using the charming and historic Santa Maria Inn in nearby Santa Maria as our base, we awoke at 3 a.m. to heavy fog. Typically a hindrance to viewing launches, the fog wasn’t stopping us, and we headed out. While there’s no science to picking prime viewing spots, a few miles away is ideal. For launches out of south Vandenberg, one of the best viewing spots is along Santa Lucia Canyon Road. If you want to be farther out, take Highway 246 about 5 miles west of Lompoc. For launches out of north Vandenberg, take Highway 1 a mile north of the main gate to Firefighter Road. Roughly a quarter-mile up Firefighter is a large open area with fields and roadsides where you can park and look down on the launch complex. About 5 miles away from the launch pad, we found a spot already well-occupied by fellow launch watchers. The base has a viewing area south of the main gate called the Hawk’s Nest that’s typically open to the public for daytime launches, according

The Bubble Shack

to 1st Lt. Amy Rasmussen, a public affairs officer for Vandenberg. Other prime viewing spots include Lompoc Airport, Allan

Hancock Community College and along West Ocean Avenue. Even in the predawn hours, you’ll find plenty of company — families with bleary-eyed children in pajamas, college students wrapped in fleece blankets and space fanatics gripping smartphones tuned to live streaming feeds. The countdown started, and the distinct sound of a sizzle could be heard. While heavy fog and early morning darkness masked the view of the launch, the sound — which lasted less than a minute — was crisp and haunting until it steadily diminished into nothing. Launchgoers remained silently transfixed. Afterward, some of us nodded at each other, shaking our heads, mouthing “wow.” Later, refreshed from a post-launch nap, we ventured out in the late-morning sun to some of the area’s wineries. You can follow numerous established

wine trails, including Santa Maria Valley and Foxen Canyon. “You can literally hit 10 wineries in a 15-mile drive — it’s a beautiful area,” says Ryan Swack, general manager for the Santa Maria Inn. We headed first to Casa Dumetz Wines, a small production winery in Los Alamos. Run by Sonja Magdevski, a highlight was The Feminist Party wine, a blend of grenache, syrah and Mourvèdre that Magdevski created to honor the “fabulous women” and “wonderful men” in her life. The Bubble Shack, in the heart of bustling Los Olivos, was our next stop. In the tasting room, traditional reds and whites divert into bubbly blanc de blancs, brut rosé and blanc de noirs. We loved the Sibling Bubblery Sparkling Grenache. Our final stop was the charming Carhartt Vineyard, tucked inside a tiny shed in Los Olivos’ downtown. This one stood out for being purposefully pint-sized. It’s always packed, but sampling the 20 different wines is worth the squeeze.

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PACIFIC | A L A SK A

All Aboard the Alaska Railroad Take in the grandeur of the Last Frontier BY SUSAN B. BARNES

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the cliffs and even the odd moose terrific place to not only take in the walking along the tracks. fresh, crisp air, but a vantage point for The entirety of the Alaska Railroad photographers, too. And tourists are spans 470 miles, from Fairbanks in the enjoying this leisurely way to take in north to Seward in the south. Stops the state. In 2019, more than 522,000 along the route — including passengers rode the Alaska Denali National Park and Railroad. Preserve, Talkeetna and There are a few options Seward — provide ample when it comes to traveling Visit alaskarailroad. opportunity for exploration. com for schedules and by rail in Alaska. To help route maps. Riding in a rail car simplify planning, a number harkens back to the way of summer (and even travel used to be — slow and enjoyable. winter) round-trip packages are availWithout Wi-Fi onboard, guests instead able from Anchorage that range from focus on the awe-inspiring beauty that two to 10 days and include accomextends as far as the eye can see. The modations. For example, the five-day open-air platform on each train is a Taste of Alaska tour from Anchorage

On Track

MICHAEL SULLIVAN

rom my seat in the glassdomed Coastal Classic rail car, I watch as we roll out of Anchorage, Alaska, and travel south into the wide open spaces of the Last Frontier. To the right, the Seward Highway winds along the coastline of Turnagain Arm, following the same path as the Alaska Railroad. The conductor and onboard tour guides share the area’s history and point out natural highlights along the route. Lucky travelers may see wildlife such as beluga whales breaking the water’s surface, bald eagles soaring overhead, Dall sheep perched precariously upon

TRAIN TRAVEL TIPS travels aboard the Denali Star north to Talkeenta; if the weather is clear, just south of Talkeetna passengers may be able to spot Denali from their rail cars. The packages also include a flightseeing tour of Denali and the Alaska Range in a small plane and a jetboat ride into Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gorge for an overnight stay. Travel back to Anchorage and then hop aboard the Coastal Classic south to Seward for a cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park, a dog-sled ride and a tour of Exit Glacier. For those short on time, Alaska Railroad also offers daytrips, and the railroad is one of the last in all of North America to offer whistle-stop services.

This is where adventure truly comes into play: You can hop off the train in a remote area such as Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop (accessible only by train) for hiking, fishing or guided river rafting. When it comes time to return to Anchorage, simply stand beside the tracks, wave down the approaching train, climb aboard and be on your way. Those who prefer to travel on their own schedule can map out their routes and accommodations, and book tickets to embark and disembark as they choose. All in all, an Alaska Railroad adventure is an opportunity to slow down and enjoy the breathtaking scenery of the Last Frontier.

Two classes of services are available on the Coastal Classic and Denali Star trains: GoldStar Service and Adventure Class. GoldStar Service includes meals in a private dining car, soft drinks and two complimentary adult beverages per trip, as well as seats in a glass-domed train car for panoramic views. Adventure Class, which is offered on all Alaska Railroad routes, includes confirmed seats in train cars with large picture windows, and dining and drinks in the onboard cafĂŠ. All Alaska Railroad trains are cashless, so be sure to bring along a credit card.

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Discover Newport at Sunset

The Coast You Remember 1-800-COAST44

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Our National Parks The National Mall welcomes millions every year, but what they see is hardly welcoming.

It welcomes the world to our most significant monuments and memorials. But like many national parks, the National Mall in Washington, D.C., desperately needs our help, including $350 million in federal funding for maintenance, repairs, and preservation. You can help with a simple letter. Visit NPCA.org/mall. Or call 1-800-NAT PARK.

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DESTINATIONS

LAS VENTANAS AL PARAÍSO, A ROSEWOOD RESORT

MEXICO 144 | CANADA 148 | EUROPE 152 | CARIBBEAN 156174

FIND YOUR ZEN Fall in love with Mexico's exquisite dining and world-class recreation, not to mention its pristine beaches (page 144).

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Eat. Play. Love. These Mexico locations offer an array of possibilities BY ANA CONNERY

CABO SAN LUCAS

MEXICO

PUNTA MITA AND SAYULITA

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ith its ancient ruins, breathtaking beaches and renowned cuisine, it’s no surprise that Mexico is a popular travel destination. Here’s a peek at three areas where you can savor exquisite dining and world-class recreation, all while falling in love with the country:

CANCUN

CANCUN This Mexico hot spot seems to always have something new up its sleeve. But two things that never change, thankfully, are its powder-soft alabaster sand and stunning blue waters. From wading in the crystal clear surf to exploring cultural

CLUB MED; MAP ILLUSTRATION: HAYLEIGH CORKEY

Club Med Cancun Yucatan

Reef, the world’s second-largest reef system. Snorkel by life-sized sculptures at the underwater art museum known as MUSA or check out the view from above on a glass-bottom boat tour.

LOVE If you want to fall off the grid, the

Zoëtry Villa Rolandi Isla Mujeres Cancun is a romantic, adults-only,

Club Med's Aguamarina

35-suite oasis with a secluded beach and a Jacuzzi tub on every balcony. It sits just offshore on the island of Isla Mujeres. “They have a house yacht that takes you to and from the mainland in 15 minutes, and spa treatments are included in the rates,” says Jenna Mahoney, travel editor of Bridal Guide magazine. “I also love how the rooms are decorated with antiques.”

CABO SAN LUCAS Known as “Los Cabos,” or simply “Cabo,” this resort destination at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula is actually two seaside pueblos: Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Despite a major building boom, the region retains an authentic, small-town vibe that draws vacationers from all over the world.

EAT

Manta

sites that are thousands of years old, this is one of the Caribbean’s best playgrounds.

CLUB MED; MAUREEN EVANS

EAT Experience the special Yucatan tastes at Lorenzillo’s, one of Cancun’s oldest establishments. The restaurant has a deck that extends over the Nichupte Lagoon, so ask for a table overlooking the water to take in the view. And with a lobster farm on the premises, you can’t go wrong with any of the many dishes that feature the crustaceans.

PLAY For more fiesta than siesta, there’s no better place than Club Med Cancun Yucatan. Nestled on the tip of the Riviera Maya, accommodations at the 22-acre resort include unlimited access to dozens of activities, such as tennis, snorkeling, archery, windsurfing and trapeze. The resort’s new Aguamarina has 60 oceanfront rooms with patios big enough to accommodate day beds and outdoor showers, and a pool dedicated to families with pint-size lounge chairs. Just offshore sits the Great Mayan

His restaurant in Mexico City has received accolades, and now Mexican chef Enrique Olvera has a waterside outpost to brag about, too. Tucked into The Cape, a Thompson Hotel, Manta’s seafood-heavy menu includes a popular suckling pig “cochinita,” but the fried bananas dessert earns just as many rave reviews. Its perch high above the Sea of Cortez means dinner comes with an amazing view.

PLAY Known as the marlin capital of the world, sportfishing put Cabo on the map as a vacation destination. Cast a line with the experts at Picante Sportfishing, and chances are you’ll go home with dorado, wahoo or yellowfin tuna (ask your captain for a list of local restaurants that are happy to cook your fresh catch). >

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Golfers can tee off where the desert meets the sea at multiple championship links. Both the Quivira and Diamante courses are huge draws, but there are also nine new holes on the popular Jack Nicklaus course at Puerto Los Cabos and two more newbies worth noting: The Rancho San Lucas course by Greg Norman and a Robert Trent Jones Jr. course at Costa Palmas.

LOVE If having your own private hideaway on the beach is your idea of romance, you’ll fall in love with Las Ventanas al Paraiso, a Rosewood Resort. “There are few properties on the planet that match the level of service and amenities,” Mahoney says. “Villas have accordion glass walls that open to private beachfront pools — I have the floor plan saved for when I win the lotto and can build my own hideaway.” The ceviche bar and the rainforest-inspired spa are also standouts. “You may want to do nothing else but have fresh-made guac, the ceviche and spa treatment on repeat.”

PUNTA MITA AND SAYULITA Compared with Cancun and Cabo, 1,500-acre Punta Mita is tiny, but this former fisherman’s town just north of Puerto Vallarta on Banderas Bay is

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the best beginner breaks, which is why so many surf schools are there.” The Lunazul Surf School has been offering lessons for more than 15 years. Or you can rumble through the back roads of Punta Mita on an off-road utility terrain vehicle. Vallarta Adventures’ open-air dune Grilled octopus at Hector’s Kitchen buggies accommodate up to four people for an adventure on jungle trails having a moment, with recent celebrity that includes a stop in Sayulita. sightings including Selena Gomez and Gwyneth Paltrow. Sayulita, a laid-back LOVE surf town just 8 miles away, offers a “For romance, the hotel I love best is nice counterpoint to Punta Mita’s more Villa Amor in Sayulita,” Mahoney says sophisticated vibe. Together they offer of the boutique resort with thatchedan oasis for families, couples and solo roof villas. Perched on a hillside travelers alike. between two beautiful beaches, all rooms are individually appointed and EAT look onto the cove; some even have Situated in the epicenter of Punta private plunge pools. Mita, Hector’s Kitchen, with creations For something less intimate but by local chef Hector Leyva, has a with more amenities, the brand new modern design that belies the rustic Conrad Punta de Mita has suites with nature of the Oaxacan dishes it serves, freestanding soaking tubs and intimate especially the grilled octopus dipped plunge pools perfect for two. An in mole coloradito and the pork belly indoor/outdoor spa has seven cocoon confit with plantain puree. treatment cabanas connected by a tropical tunnel of plants and flowers PLAY and a traditional temazcal for couples “If I were to go off-grid, I’d live in Sawho want to sweat out their stresses yulita,” Mahoney says. “The beach has together. l

CONRAD PUNTA DE MITA; HECTOR'S KITCHEN

Conrad Punta de Mita

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CANADA | TORON TO

Museum Mecca Toronto truly has something for everyone’s taste BY BRIAN BARTH

Bishop White Gallery of Chinese Temple Art, Royal Ontario Museum

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ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM (2)

anada’s largest city is known for its eclectic neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and waterfront attractions. But art and history lovers know Toronto’s best-kept secret: its plethora of museums. “Museums in Toronto come in all shapes and sizes,” says Marie Lalonde, executive director of the Ontario Museum Association. “From carefully preserved historic homes and cutting-edge technology to contemporary art, Toronto’s thriving collection of museums offers something for every visitor.” Toronto’s museum and gallery scene includes international heavyweights, including the Royal Ontario Museum,

Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, Royal Ontario Museum

a natural history buff’s paradise, and the Art Gallery of Ontario, home to one of the most extensive collections in North America. And the province’s capital also includes destinations you’ll find nowhere else, such as the Bata Shoe Museum and the Aga Khan Museum, the first in North America devoted exclusively to Islamic art. There are dozens of other museums devoted to specific areas of interest, from ceramics to hockey. The city government maintains its own network of 10 museums, which focus on local history. These offer an inexpensive way to get off the main tourist track and learn about some of the city’s historic neighborhoods. Cheryl Blackman, director of museums and heritage services for the city of Toronto, says the city-run museums are not staid history displays — they are eccentric and interactive, with special events throughout the year that bring the history to life. “Unlike being in an art gallery or a traditional museum where you have a lot of constraints on getting up close to the displays, these are living history museums. You’re literally smelling, touching and tasting — you’re fully engulfed in a sensory journey,” she says. “The 10 sites are a way to see 10 distinct chapters in the story that is Toronto.” Here are some of the city’s many museum offerings to check out:

Bata Shoe Museum, All About Shoes exhibit

Bata Shoe Museum

Museums in Toronto come in all shapes and sizes. Toronto’s thriving collection of museums offers something for every visitor.” — MARIE LALONDE, DIRECTOR ONTARIO MUSEUM ASSOCIATION

BATA SHOE MUSEUM (2); GARDINER MUSEUM (2)

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM (ROM) Arguably Canada’s most storied museum, the ROM is home to 13 million pieces of artistic, cultural and historical artifacts, spread across 40 exhibition spaces. The stately landmark building was established in 1914, and the otherworldly Michael Lee-Chin Crystal addition was completed in 2007. Admission is free on the third Tuesday night of each month.

BATA SHOE MUSEUM Sonja Bata, the wife of Czech-Canadian shoe magnate Thomas Bata (whose eponymous company has long been known for its trademark plain white canvas shoes for children), spent her life traveling the world and indulging >

Cracked Wheat, Gardiner Museum

Pottery class at Gardiner Museum

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her passion for footwear. Her collection of rare and historic shoes grew to epic proportions, and is now housed in this one-of-a-kind museum, where you’ll find more than 13,000 artifacts from across 4,500 years of shoe history.

architecture, is jaw-dropping. The museum sits on the 17-acre Aga Khan Park, one of the city’s most stunning attractions, with an enormous reflecting pool at its center.

ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO (AGO)

GARDINER MUSEUM

On par with any art museum in New York or London, the AGO houses a full spectrum of art from ancient cultures to Renaissance masters to the latest avant-garde contemporary artists. But it is particularly known for its collection of Canadian artists, including famed indigenous sculptors from the Arctic and members of the Group of Seven, a collective of painters known worldwide for their depictions of Canadian landscapes.

More than 4,000 artifacts are found in this museum, just steps from the ROM in downtown Toronto, including world-renowned collections of ancient American earthenware, European porcelain and traditional Asian porcelain, plus revolving installations by contemporary ceramics artists. If you love pottery — its history, art and culture — you will find yourself in heaven at the Gardiner.

AGA KHAN MUSEUM

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCA)

Built in 2014, this is one of Toronto’s newest jewels and the pre-eminent venue for Islamic art on the planet. The building, a sleek, contemporary take on ancient Middle Eastern

Founded in 2018, MOCA is the newest — and arguably, hippest — addition to the Toronto museum scene. Located in a renovated industrial building in a neighborhood of trendy galleries and

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eateries, you won’t find any art here that is more than a few years old. There are no permanent collections on display, only a few temporary exhibitions at a time, many of them interactive.

FORT YORK NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Part of the city’s network of 10 museums celebrating Toronto history, Fort York includes buildings that have stood on-site since the War of 1812, when an important battle was fought here. Spanning 43 acres in the downtown core, this is where the city was born — the perfect place to understand the roots of what is today a delightfully entertaining, cosmopolitan metropolis. l

TONI HAFKENSCHEID/MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART TORONTO; GABRIEL LI

Striking a Balance — Rehearsing Disagreement, Museum of Contemporary Art

Quebec’s Far North

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Defend her right to childhood.

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EUROPE

Macs Adventure Engadin Valley + Mont Blanc Tour

Europe by Foot Gain a new perspective on the Old World

ant to see the world in a way that most people never will? If experiencing new destinations at a slower pace and spending every evening in a different quaint village,

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all while recharging your soul hiking well-trod trails sounds like your type of vacation, then a village-to-village walking holiday might be a perfect fit for you. It’s a special way to travel that doesn’t contribute as much to the over-tourism that many sought-after

locations experience, says Kimberly Daley, president and CEO of MT Sobek, a full-service guided adventure travel company founded in 1969. “When you’re doing a hiking trip, you can go to these more popular destinations, but you’re doing it from an adventure perspective — you’re seeing a different

MACS ADVENTURE

BY KRISTEN SEYMOUR

Germany

MACS ADVENTURE; MARK AND LAUREN OPITZ (2)

Scotland

side of that area,” says Daley. “It allows you to really unplug and recharge, and you tread a little more lightly than you otherwise would.” Trails allowing for this type of trip exist all over the world, although Europe is especially well-suited for it. “Out of the 700 different itineraries we offer, our most popular walks are consistently those bucket list, ‘Great Walks of the World’ types of destinations,” says Connor Frey, director of sales for Macs Adventure, a travel company offering self-guided tours. “For Europe, that includes the West Highland Way in Scotland, the Cotswolds in England

Italy

and the Camino de Santiago in Spain,” among others, he says. There are almost as many ways to embark on a European village-tovillage hiking adventure as there are destinations in which to do it — and each option has its perks. Whether you backpack on your own or opt to put your trip in the hands of professionals, one thing remains the same: You’ll want to show up with a love of adventure and a willingness to embrace the unknown, because this type of tour is truly about the journey (although the destinations aren’t half bad, either).

HELPING HAND FOR HIKERS For those who like traveling independently but prefer to leave the planning and luggage transfer to the pros, a self-guided tour company may be just the ticket. Macs Adventure offers a wide selection of vetted, self-guided and customizable tours. “Customers can choose when to travel, who to travel with and what difficulty level they want. Hotel grade, rooming preferences, departure dates, additional nights or combination tours are all things we regularly customize,” says Frey. “The great thing about self-guided tours is you have all the information >

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you need to explore at your own pace while engaging with local communities and soaking up the local culture.” Luggage transfer not only allows travelers to wear just a day pack holding what they need on their hike, but also makes packing less stressful because travelers are not constrained to fitting all of their items in a backpack. They simply drop their luggage at a designated spot by an appointed time in the morning, and by the time they arrive at the next location, their bags are usually already there. And, although travelers hit the trails on their own, they’re not truly alone, says Frey. Macs Adventure offers route notes, insider travel tips, 24/7 trip support and access to their app with offline GPS route guidance.

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ALL THE ADVENTURE, NONE OF THE HASSLE While hiking will always present its own physical challenges, MT Sobek’s goal is to remove any other difficulties its customers might face, both through its all-inclusive approach and its experienced guides — many of whom have been with the company for 25 or 30 years. “Travel can be hard,” says Daley. “How much money do you need to carry? How much do you tip? What customs or phrases do you need to know? We don’t want you to worry about that, so from day one, every single thing is included. We don’t want people to have to take out their wallets during their trip.” The attention to detail begins long before travelers leave home. “We

start with a phone call or email with a regional specialist who walks you through the trip,” says Anne Wood, MT Sobek’s senior director of product and partnerships. “We make sure people are signing up for the trip they want and try to demystify the process.” This includes assisting travelers with visa requirements and providing packing lists and information on currency, customs and even which electrical adapters are needed. They offer physical training tips for specific trips on their blog, but can refer customers who want a personalized approach to an online personal trainer. Group tours of between four and 16 people are what the company is best known for, although they also offer custom trips for families or private

MT SOBEK

MT Sobek Mont Blanc Tour

Macs Adventure Engadine Valley + Mont Blanc Tour

CHOOSING THE RIGHT CHALLENGE Most tour companies offer difficulty ratings or activity levels for their tours to help travelers choose wisely. “Understanding the difficulty level of a particular hike or bike trip is very important for an enjoyable experience,” says Connor Frey of Macs Adventure. And while he says that most of the Macs Adventure tours are built for the average walker, keep in mind that “average” in this case still means walking eight to 12 miles per day. Distance isn’t the only challenge, of course. Elevation, weather, type of terrain and whether or not equipment is required can also impact the difficulty of a trip. So before you go, make sure you know what you may be in for. That being said, don’t let fear hold you back from doing something you want to do, says Anne Wood of travel company MT Sobek. “My favorite moments on these adventures are when you’ve had a great but challenging day, and you’re all high-fiving each other and smiling because, oh, what a day it was!”

groups. Still, they believe that group tours offer something truly special, especially for solo travelers (who make up close to 30 percent of their customers). “We have a lot of people come out who weren’t quite sure they wanted to do a group travel trip and realized they loved making friends,” says Wood.

MACS ADVENTURE

SOLELY SELF-SUFFICIENT Those who enjoy researching and planning a vacation almost as much as the trip itself – and who are up for the challenge of carrying whatever they might need on their back as they hike from one inn to the next – will be drawn to a self-sufficient approach, which is what Mark and Lauren Opitz of Sarasota, Fla., took when they hiked the Rob Roy Way in Scotland in March

2017. “We don’t like to sit around on vacation – we’re pretty active – and we love being in nature,” says Mark, “so this type of trip sounded perfect.” Although the Opitzes initially talked to a tour company that facilitated group trips, they weren’t sure they wanted to travel with strangers or follow any set itinerary. And, perhaps more importantly, Lauren loves the research aspect of travel and quickly realized that the preliminary information she’d gathered was on par with what the agency offered to provide. So, the couple decided to forego professional assistance and handle everything themselves, including choosing their route, booking accommodations and carrying their belongings from one stop to the next.

“There are lots of walking ways — or long-distance hiking trails — in Scotland,” says Lauren. “We knew how much time we had, so we looked at how long tours typically were for the different paths.” Even though they’re both accomplished runners, they were conservative with the distance they planned to cover each day because they knew they’d be carrying packs weighing more than 20 pounds – and they wanted to ensure they’d arrive in each location with plenty of time to relax, explore and sample the local fare. The couple covered the Rob Roy Way over the course of nine days, hiking between eight and 12 miles each morning, then arriving in each new village early enough to shower, rinse out anything needing a quick wash and enjoy their new surroundings. While there were a few things they say they would do differently, such as packing even lighter and perhaps taking a slightly more leisurely approach, it was so successful that, the following year, they did another (albeit shorter) self-planned village-to-village walking tour along the Cinque Terre in Italy and are looking at Ireland next. Still, Lauren stresses that the fully self-sufficient route may not be for everyone. “I spent hours and hours online doing research,” she says. “But I love doing it, so that wasn’t a problem for me.” It wasn’t only a matter of picking a path and booking accommodations, she says, but also identifying the right maps and guidebooks.

NOT THE PATH FOR EVERYONE As incredible as this type of trek may sound, before you book your trip, make sure you’re considering all aspects of adventure travel. “There are people who want a bulleted list of what they’re doing every hour of every day. These people are not made for adventure travel,” laughs Wood. “There’s no way any company can plan for every aspect, like weather or needing to reroute around a landslide or wildfire. We’re in nature. It’s full of the unknown and that’s what makes it an authentic experience. Most of our customers understand and even appreciate that.” l

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SoufriÃ¨re Village, Dominica

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SABA GUADELOUPE ISLANDS

BARBUDA DOMINICA

CARIBBEAN

ST. VINCENT

Cabrits Resort & Spa Kempinski Dominica

DISCOVER DOMINICA AUTHORITY ; MAP: STUDIO GANNETT; CABRITS RESORT & SPA KEMPINSKI DOMINICA; GUADELOUPE TOURISM BOARD

Caribbean Secrets Discover these under-the-radar gems BY LISA DAVIS

hile many islands in the Caribbean are popular vacations spots, several lesser-known locations are equally inviting. Here are five worth discovering:

DOMINICA Not to be confused with the popular Dominican Republic, Dominica is a roughly 290-square-mile island located about halfway between the French isles of Guadeloupe and Martinique. What makes Dominica a standout for a vacation is its scenery: mountains, rainforests and 365 rivers, including the Indian River flanked by mangroves and multigreen foliage. The island is also home to the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a picture-perfect landscape of lakes, fumaroles, volcanoes, waterfalls, hot springs and dense forests, including the Valley of Desolation with boiling mud ponds and small geysers and the Emerald Pool, a green-hued waterfall grotto. The Waitukubuli National Trail covers 115 miles and spans the length of Dominica, passing through coastal villages, woodland hills, rainforests, waterfalls and more. Spend the night at the five-star Cabrits Resort & Spa Kempinski Dominica, perched in Cabrits National Park with 151 nature-inspired guest rooms.

THE GUADELOUPE ISLANDS A territory of France, French is the main language spoken on the Guadeloupe archipelago, which consists of several uninhabited islands and six inhabited ones. The two largest inhabited islands, Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre, are connected by short bridges. On Basse-Terre, Parc National de la Guadeloupe offers hiking trails to the Chutes du Carbet waterfall and La Grande SoufriĂ¨re, an active volcano. The islands of Les Saintes feel much like a French seaside village. The well-preserved Fort Napoleon gives visitors a 360-degree view of Les Saintes Bay, designated by UNESCO as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. At the Tendacayou Ecolodge & Spa on Basse-Terre, you can escape from technology in the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s treehouses, villas and ground-level bungalows, which are all television- and phone-free.

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HONORABLE MENTIONS These lesser-traveled Caribbean isles are also worth a trip: Anegada This is the only coral island in the Virgin Islands’ volcanic chain, and native pink flamingoes roam the pristine sands. Visitors can enjoy surfing, snorkeling, kayaking and paddleboarding.

BARBUDA Considered the sister island to Antigua, Barbuda is less developed than its larger sibling, but it’s packed with options for nature, adventure and downtime, including secluded pink and white sand beaches; the Frigate Bird Sanctuary at Codrington Lagoon National Park where more than 5,000 frigates (the world’s largest colony) gather in the mangroves; and Darby Cave, a sinkhole surrounded by vegetation that resembles a mini rainforest. The island’s hotels endured significant damage in 2017 from Hurricane Irma, and some have not reopened, but the Barbuda Belle offers oceanfront bungalow-style accommodations and a new beach bar and grill.

Bocas del Toro Province Panama’s Bocas del Toro’s nine islands, 52 cays and thousands of inlets, all accessible by boat taxi, give travelers easy access to marine life and stunning beaches.

Martinique Part of the archipelago of the Antilles, this island is known for miles of hiking trails and is a top scuba diving destination, as well as home to the volcano Mount Pelée, which first erupted in 1902. Nevis There are no traffic lights, retail chains or casinos to detract from Nevis’ gentle charm. Located in the West Indies near St. Kitts, this island is unvarnished with coral reefs, palmfringed beaches and freely roaming goats and green vervet monkeys. Roatan This small island, about 40 miles from Honduras’ mainland, spoils vacationers with its beaches, rainforests and proximity to the underwater coral gardens of the Mesoamerican Reef.

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SABA Dubbed by islanders as “The Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean,” the volcanic Saba is abundant with scenery and biodiversity. Saba National Marine Park encompasses roughly 25 dive sites with numerous coral formations, 150 species of fish and plenty of turtles and dolphins. Saba’s hot springs, where the hot water rises through vents in the sea floor, is another must-see dive site with sculpted underwater pinnacles created by volcanic activity. Prefer to stay on land? Trek up the roughly 1,000 stone steps to Mount Scenery, the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Post-hike, enjoy a massage at the Queen’s Gardens Resort & Spa near Windwardside, the island’s main commercial village.

ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES The island of St. Vincent is known for its waterfalls, hikes up rainforest-covered hillsides and black sand beaches, which owe their dark hue to volcanic activity. Be sure to visit Wallilabou Bay, where part of the original Pirates of the Caribbean movie was filmed. St. Vincent is part of the Grenadines, and ferry service connects many of the islands and cays. One of the closest islands from St. Vincent is Bequia, where you can overnight at The Liming resort. Spend a day at Princess Margaret Beach, which is framed by palm trees and seagrape plants and located near the town of Port Elizabeth with its colorful wooden houses and produce markets. You can also take a day trip from Bequia to the Tobago Cays Marine Park or venture to the tiny one-road island of Mayreau, home to beautiful Salt Whistle Bay beach. And Canouan is a hook-shaped, pint-sized island surrounded by coral reef where you can stay at the luxurious 1,200-acre seaside Mandarin Oriental.

JENNY BLOCK

Bonaire Boomerang-shaped Bonaire, located off Venezuela’s coast, is a draw for scuba divers who come for the island’s reefs, the world’s first to be protected as a marine sanctuary in 1979.

ONE FOR THE ROAD

Welcome, White Sands National monument becomes newest national park THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

contains the world’s largest gypsum dunefield — including gypsum hearthmounds found nowhere else — and is home to the globe’s largest collection of Ice Age fossilized footprints. Aside from the name change, the federal legislation included provisions for a land exchange between White Sands and the U.S. Army, which operates an adjacent missile range. Efforts to establish a national park in the area date back more than a century when locals lobbied to protect the dunes from commercial interests that were attempting to mine the gypsum. White Sands sees hundreds of thousands of visitors every year, more than any other park service location in New Mexico. In 2018, the area logged more than 600,000 visits and spurred more than $32 million in spending for the local economy. New Mexico Sen. Martin Heinrich, who was among those who pushed for the redesignation, says he expects the change will boost the local economy and spur more recognition for the unique spot.

GETTY IMAGES

hite Sands National Monument in southern New Mexico is now White Sands National Park. White Sands became the 62nd designated national park in December with President Donald Trump’s signing of the National Defense Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2020, which included a provision on the redesignation. “Our staff are very excited for White Sands to be recognized as a national park and to reintroduce ourselves to the American public,” says Park Superintendent Marie Sauter. “We are so appreciative of our partners, local communities and congressional leaders who made this achievement possible and look forward to continued success working together.” White Sands National Monument was established on Jan. 18, 1933, by President Herbert Hoover to preserve “the white sands and additional features of scenic, scientific and educational interest” and

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Endless servings of flame-grilled meats cooked over a wood-charcoal fire Chef-crafted gourmet salad area Ultimate caipirinhas, award-winning wines and much more! Visit TexasdeBrazil.com for list of domestic and international locations

For stocking up, chilling out, and savoring summer. Zero sugar. Flavor for all.