GO ESCAPE TEXAS & SOUTHWEST 2020

TEXAS & SOUTHWEST 20 20

HEALTHY HABITS Traveling during a pandemic

CULINARY CULTURE Sample regional cuisine, brews

URBAN VIBES Take in the bright lights of big cities

HONOR HISTORY Visit museums, landmarks

Explore Guadalupe Mountains National Park in northwest Texas

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USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

CONTENTS

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TEXAS & SOUTHWEST

URBAN COWBOYS Even the cities are bigger in the Lone Star State

VISITFORTWORTH.COM

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CONTENTS THE REGION

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This is a product of

TAKE A BEERCATION Tap into the Southwest’s brewery scene

EDITORIAL

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DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes

TEXAS Experience Austin by paddleboard

jbstokes@usatoday.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com

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ARIZONA

MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington

The Grand Canyon continues to dazzle

mjwashington@usatoday.com

ISSUE EDITOR Harry Lister

NEVADA Neon Museum illuminates Las Vegas history

Dune sledding at White Sands National Park DIANA LAMBDIN MEYER

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UP FRONT

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EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Tracy Scott Forson Deirdre van Dyk Debbie Williams

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NEW MEXICO

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Winterlike wonder of White Sands National Park

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OKLAHOMA

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UTAH

Be inspired by historic adobe churches

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FIND A FLAT Feel at home on the road in an apartment-hotel

STAYING HEALTHY Tips for traveling safely during the pandemic

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HUSS BREWING COMPANY

ISSUE DESIGNER Debra Moore

New museum to honor First Americans

Moab is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts

DESIGNERS Hayleigh Corkey David Hyde Gina Toole Saunders Lisa M. Zilka CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lisa Davis, Jennifer Bradley Franklin, Dawn Gilbertson, Jefferson Graham, Diana Lambdin Meyer, Leila Najafi, Kae Lani Palmisano, Robin Roenker, Sarah Sekula, Sandy Smith, Kathryn Streeter, Stacey Zable

ADVERTISING VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914

SOULFUL SERENITY

pburke@usatoday.com

Heal your spirit in Sedona, Ariz.

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Vanessa Salvo | (703) 854-6499 vsalvo@usatoday.com

FEATURES

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FINANCE

BOTANICAL BEAUTIES

Billing Coordinator Julie Marco

Let nature nourish you at these Southwest gardens

ISSN#0734-7456 A USA TODAY Network publication, Gannett Co. Inc

GIANTS OF GASTRONOMY UNESCO cites San Antonio and Tucson for their food scenes

La Gloria, San Antonio LA GLORIA

ON THE COVER El Capitan, Guadalupe Mountains National Park PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Arches National Park in Utah GETTY IMAGES

THE OUTBREAK OF AND response to COVID-19 has affected our lives, our livelihoods and the economy at the local, national and global levels. And it has had a profound effect on the travel industry.

As we grapple with the unprecedented scope of this pandemic, many events, festivals and celebrations have been suspended or canceled. However, across the country businesses that provide lodging, food and transportation are starting to reopen with varied stipulations and baseline measures in place that aim to reduce the risk of spreading the coronavirus.

The USA TODAY Network is committed to providing timely, engaging and accurate information in our coverage, but given the evolving nature of this health crisis, we realize that there will undoubtedly be changes to the accessibility of many of the locations, venues and services mentioned throughout this publication. Please check directly with businesses for the latest updates.

We also know that the travel and tourism industry is resilient.

It has rebounded from natural disasters, economic recessions and other crises before, and while this pandemic is uncharted territory, it is our hope that national and international exploration will resume soon. In the meantime, we will continue to look beyond today and provide you with the amazing sights, sounds, tastes and experiences that await.

Harry Lister Issue Editor

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UP FRONT | ACCOMMODATIONS

Find a Flat Apartment hotels will make you feel at home on the road

By Leila Najafi

F

IRST THERE WERE VRBO and Airbnb; now apart-hotels (also called hometels) are getting in on the action. In any case, travelers no longer have to choose solely between a hotel room and a stranger’s house when seeking accommodations on the road.

This hybrid option is designed for road warriors who want the warmth of a home with the consistency of a hotel.

Apart-hotels are gaining a foothold in the hospitality world with a concept that enables travelers to immerse themselves in the local culture and still feel like they’re at home when they lay their heads down at night.

Here are two apart-hotel options that USA TODAY’s 10Best recommends during your next visit to Dallas, Houston or Austin, Texas:

LOCALE This Austin-based company, with seven locations in five markets, merges the essential elements of home with exceptional amenities and technology-enhanced service.

Nightly rates for one-bedroom units range from $191.50 in Austin’s Rainey Street to $249 at the Latitude at Texas Medical Center.

“Pre-COVID, we were gearing up to launch in two new cities and triple our footprint by the end of 2020,” says Nitesh Gandhi, founder and CEO of Locale. “We slowed down our growth over the last few months, but have still generated over 70 percent occupancy across our portfolio since April given our success in attracting longer-term stays.” ▶ locale.com

Locale Rainey Street, Austin

Victory Park, Dallas

Latitude at Texas Medical Center, Houston LOCALE (3); GETTY IMAGES

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UP FRONT | ACCOMMODATIONS

The Hogg Palace, Houston

East Eleventh, Austin

Butler Brothers, Dallas SONDER (3); GETTY IMAGES

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

SONDER What started with a college sophomore trying to make side money by temporarily leasing out his apartment has turned into a Silicon Valley startup that has caught the eye of investors seeking to reinvent hospitality. The mission is to create inviting spaces ranging from studios to three-bedroom apartments in less touristy neighborhoods while offering the amenities and services of a hotel.

Sonder has a footprint in 35 markets worldwide — which, in addition to Austin, Dallas and Houston includes Phoenix and San Antonio in the Southwest — with carefully curated rooms that draw inspiration from the local neighborhoods.

Sonder guests have access to 24/7 support via a mobile app for cleaning requests, concierge help or general assistance with their stay. ▶ sonder.com

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UP FRONT | SAFETY

Well Traveled Tips for staying healthy while venturing out

By Amy Sinatra Ayres

Avoid touching your eyes

Avoid touching your nose

Avoid touching your mouth

T

HE ONGOING THREAT OF the coronavirus

has many travelers wondering what to do about trips they’ve already booked, what to consider if they’re planning a new trip and how to stay healthy while getting there.

Most states are allowing businesses to reopen with precautions. “Presently, travel in the U.S. appears to be safe, but we need to be smart about our actions,” says Dr. Harry Oken, a practicing internist and clinical professor of medicine at the University of Maryland School of Medicine.

“I suspect more people will keep social distancing in mind as they make ... travel plans. I also suspect people will bring with them their own travel kits

that include cleaning supplies,” Oken adds. “If you’re traveling, everyone should wear a face mask and practice decontamination of the mask. An easy way to decontaminate a face mask is to spray it with hydrogen peroxide.”

Oken recommends travelers “minimize your touches in common areas,” such as airports, train stations or taxis and ridesharing services. If you’re getting on an airplane, bus or train, Oken says to use an antibacterial wipe to disinfect your seat, the table attached to it, the armrests and headrests — then wash your hands.

Making healthy decisions about what you’re eating is also important when you travel, Oken says. He advises selecting “cooked meat instead of uncooked, unless you feel 100 percent confident in the food

preparation.” In addition, “Stay away from street vendors. If you do partake, have cooked food.

Ask for drinks without ice.”

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says travelers should follow any state and local restrictions and warns that you may be asked to self-quarantine at home if you come in close contact with someone who has the virus.

People who are at a higher risk of severe infection may want to reconsider their travel plans, says Oken. “Advanced age can be a factor, particularly if associated with comorbidities (multiple chronic diseases).” Individuals with underlying immune deficiencies could be at risk, as well as anyone with chronic conditions such as diabetes, lung disease, heart disease and those undergoing chemotherapy or radiation, Oken says.

Avoid physical content

Avoid crowded places

Wash hands for at least 20 seconds

Use hand sanitizer

Use noncontact temperature checks

Wear a face mask

GETTY IMAGES

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Get nourished by nature at these Southwest gardens

By Robin Roenker IT’S EASY TO GET LOST IN THE BEAUTY OF NATURE. A single, breathtakingly colorful cacti blossom. A meandering, tree-lined path. A bed bursting with fall chrysanthemums.

All have the power to leave you feeling renewed.

Wondering where to find such a natural refresh? The Southwest is home to many of the country’s finest botanical gardens, where experts curate beds and create displays so beguiling, you may never want to leave. Here are some of the best:

Tulip at ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden

Bromeliad at ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden

Chain cholla at Desert Botanical Garden

ABQ BIOPARK BOTANIC GARDEN (2); DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN; GETTY IMAGES

USA TODAY SPECIAL EDITION

BELLAGIO CONSERVATORY & BOTANICAL GARDEN Las Vegas Located near the hotel lobby, Bellagio’s indoor conservatory and botanical garden features 14,000 square feet of eye-catching floral fantasy. New displays are rotated in each season in addition to a special annual installation to celebrate Chinese New Year.

This fall’s themed show, Into the Woods, includes a treehouse, waterfalls, whimsical foxes made from natural materials and stunning displays of “fall Aspen trees that will bring a lot of yellow and orange throughout,” says Jerry Bowlen, the Bellagio’s executive director of horticulture. The current show also includes a new guest experience where parties of up to four can dine among the conservatory’s meticulously curated beds. Contact the hotel concierge for details.

Open 24/7. Admission is free. bellagio.mgmresorts.com

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DALLAS ARBORETUM AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Dallas

RED HILLS DESERT GARDEN St. George, Utah

Enjoy 66 acres bursting with seasonal color, dotted by 21 distinct gardens — including The Eugenia Leftwich Palmer Fern Dell and the Martha Brooks Camellia Garden — with no shortage of benches, so you can linger to soak in the beauty. “We probably plant more flowering plants than any other botanic garden in the United States, so there are always a lot of beautiful things in bloom, even in fall and winter,” says Dave Forehand, vice president of gardens.

The annual Autumn at the Arboretum (Sept. 19 to Nov. 1) features 150,000 fall flowers and a Pumpkin Village, a series of houses and creative displays fashioned from more than 90,000 pumpkins, gourds and squash.

Open daily. Due to COVID-19, visitors must prepurchase timed admission tickets online. dallasarboretum.org

Stroll through a nearly 5-acre interactive desert garden showcasing more than 5,000 waterefficient plants — and walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs. Fossil tracks made by prehistoric animals are on view throughout the garden.

Enjoy the 1,150-foot undulating stream stocked with some of the rarest fish species on Earth, take in panoramic views of the nearby red rock formations or visit the adjacent Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, a 62,000-acre conservation area — home to the protected Mojave Desert Tortoise — with miles of trails for hiking and biking.

There is even a replica slot canyon in Utah’s first desert conservation garden.

Open daily. Admission is free. redhillsdesertgarden.com

BELLAGIO CONSERVATORY & BOTANICAL GARDEN; DALLAS ARBORETUM AND BOTANICAL GARDEN; RED HILLS DESERT GARDEN; GETTY IMAGES

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ABQ BIOPARK BOTANIC GARDEN Albuquerque, N.M.

MYRIAD BOTANICAL GARDENS Oklahoma City

DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN Phoenix

There’s something for everyone at the ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden, home to native desert plants, a Mediterranean conservatory, a BUGariam, a Children’s Fantasy Garden and a functioning re-creation of a 1930s-era Rio Grande homestead.

Watch for native wildlife in the garden, as well: Bobcats, porcupines and an array of migratory birds are known to visit from the nearby Rio Grande Bosque, the city’s riverside cottonwood forest.

The BioPark also includes a zoo and aquarium.

“From the BioPark’s Tingley Beach, you can walk right out to the Rio Grande,” says Maria Thomas, curator of plants. “That connectivity to nature is what makes the park as a whole such a special place.”

Open daily. Some indoor exhibits may be closed due to COVID-19. abqbiopark.com

A 15-acre natural oasis in the heart of downtown Oklahoma City, this gem has been “a source of serenity” for visitors — offering a safe space to enjoy the outdoors while socially distancing, says director of marketing and public relations Leslie Spears.

Admission to the outdoor grounds, including a prairie garden, dog park, children’s garden and interactive splash park, is free. The fee (free up to $8, depending on age) to enter the indoor Crystal Bridge Conservatory is worth it for the stunning architecture alone. Inside the 13,000-square-foot acrylic tube, enjoy displays of 750 varieties of plants ranging from dry zone succulents to rainforest orchids. But visit before December, when the conservatory will close for a two-year interior remodel.

“When it reopens, it will be glorious,” Spears says.

Open daily. Hours vary. myriadgardens.org

Roam the garden’s five themed trails to discover the rugged, resourceful beauty of hearty desert cacti and wildflowers — plants that thrive in some of the harshest climates in the world.

Watch for special pop-up events with socially distanced themes on Friday nights in the garden.

“We are being very careful with our COVID-19 safety precautions. We want to give people a place to come and enjoy being outside,” says marketing communications manager Clare Hahne.

A beloved Phoenix holiday tradition, Las Noches de Las Luminarias — when the garden is lit by 8,000 luminarias — is set for Nov. 27-28 and Dec. 4-6, 11-13, 17-23 and 26-31.

Open daily. Due to COVID-19, visitors must prepurchase tickets online. dbg.org

ABQ BIOPARK BOTANIC GARDEN; MYRIAD BOTANICAL GARDENS; DESERT BOTANICAL GARDEN; GETTY IMAGES

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Two Cities A Tale of

SAN ANTONIO AND TUCSON RECOGNIZED BY UNESCO

FOR CREATIVE GASTRONOMY

By Jennifer Bradley Franklin YOU MIGHT SAY IT’S the best of times for Tucson, Ariz., and San Antonio, the only UNESCO Creative Cities of Gastronomy in the United States. The food in both Southwestern destinations is terrific, but garnering the honor goes well beyond simple flavors. They were selected for their excellence across criteria, such as their efforts to encourage the use of indigenous ingredients, their many traditional food markets and festivals and their respect for the environment, including the promotion of sustainable local products.

“We have a responsibility to use our gastronomy — that is, our food and culture — as a driver for sustainable economic development,” says chef Elizabeth Johnson, owner of Pharm Table and one of the people who helped draft San Antonio’s UNESCO application. The confluence of flavors and traditions has created some dynamic destinations:

Taqueria Pico de Gallo in Tucson TAYLOR NOEL PHOTOGRAPHY; GETTY IMAGES

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TASTES OF

Tucson Label Person, Place or Product

Label Person, Place or Product

Mariscos Chihuahua

UNESCO is a division of the United Nations tasked with advancing peace through education, science and culture.

There are 246 locations designated as UNESCO Creative Cities around the world in design, film, gastronomy, literature, music, media arts and crafts/folk art. Of those, 36 are dedicated to gastronomy.

Mission Garden

El Güero Canelo TAYLOR NOEL PHOTOGRAPHY; VISIT TUCSON (2)

Located in the Sonoran Desert, Tucson has a 300-plus-year history of agriculture, with orchards, ranches and vineyards dotting the landscape.

“Tucson is the longest continuously cultivated region of the United States and is the most biodiverse region in the country,” says Janos Wilder, the James Beard Award-winning chef/owner of Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails and president of Tucson City of Gastronomy, a nonprofit dedicated to maximizing the impact of the UNESCO designation the city received in 2015. The blend of diverse topography and bounty of ingredients and influences that draw from Mexican, Native American, Mission-era Mediterranean and cowboy traditions creates a dining scene you can’t find anywhere else.

Experiencing Tucson’s cuisine doesn’t have to be a high-brow affair. “We have wonderful finedining and modern restaurants, but the heartbeat of the city is its street food and mom-andpop places,” Wilder notes. He loves to bring guests on a tour of South Tucson, starting at Tacos Apson for charcoal-fired tacos, followed by Taqueria Pico de Gallo. He insists that the soulful, unpretentious restaurant that started as a food cart serves the city’s best cinnamon-flavored horchata.

Another must-visit is El Güero Canelo, which is often credited with popularizing the Sonoran hot dog. “It’s become an iconic food of Tucson,” Wilder says.

Try the classic version of a griddled bacon-wrapped wiener inside a fluffy bun with beans, tomato, mayo, mustard, onions and jalapeno sauce CONTINUED

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at one of El Güero’s four locations.

It might seem odd to find stellar seafood in Tucson, but Wilder swears by Mariscos Chihuahua, which serves fish stew, seafood tacos and ceviche with ingredients sourced from the Sea of Cortez/Gulf of California.

For an up-close look at the area’s heirloom fruits and vegetables, head north

and take a tour of Mission Garden. The picturesque walled gardens are built on the historic site of the San Agustin Mission.

To taste the terroir of the region through locally produced wine and beer, visit Arizona Wine Collective, a tasting room and bottle shop, or Sand-Reckoner Vineyards, which serves vintages from its winery in nearby Willcox.

SAVOR

San Antonio

Cured

La Gloria

La Gloria

2M Smokehouse Pigs Cheek Poutine RICK CORTEZ; 2M SMOKEHOUSE; LA GLORIA

Europeans began settling in San Antonio in 1718, but the area has “been continuously inhabited for the last 11,000 years,” says Johnson. “San Antonio is a very special place; it’s been sacred to many people.”

The UNESCO designation in 2017 pays tribute to the food traditions left by a vast confluence of cultures: Indigenous people, followed

by Spaniards, Berbers from the Canary Islands off the coast of Africa, Mexicans, Germans and others in a stream of migration that’s spanned millennia and continues today.

To experience one of the cuisines that makes this south-central Texas city special, check out 2M Smokehouse for world-class barbecue. Known for its crisp-tender brisket, pork ribs and sausage studded with serrano peppers and Oaxaca cheese, you won’t believe pitmaster Esaul Ramos, a 2020 James Beard semifinalist, started as a backyard griller.

It’s practically impossible to talk about San Antonio’s culinary scene without extolling the virtues of chef

Johnny Hernandez’s take on Mexican street food.

Try some of his signature dishes at La Gloria, where queso fundido chorizo con rajas (melted cheese with sausage and roasted poblano peppers), camarones agua chile (shrimp in fire water) and al pastor (pork) tacos in housemade corn tortillas earn rave reviews.

Another James Beard semifinalist, chef Steve McHugh, draws inspiration from regional ingredients and time-honored curing techniques in charcuteriefocused restaurant Cured.

It’s not uncommon to find creative uses of indigenous ingredients like mesquite flour and nopales (prickly pear cactus) in elements like caramel and relish, respectively.

Johnson, who views food as a form of medicine, draws inspiration from Africa, Asia and the Mediterranean at Pharm Table, where she serves a primarily plantbased menu. “I see more and more richness in our culinary landscape in terms of the different ethnicities represented, and that gives me hope,” she says.

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THE REGION 22

SOUTHWEST ROAD SIP

Take a trip to sample the region’s best breweries

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TEXAS

City lights shine bright statewide

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ARIZONA

Grand Canyon National Park still dazzles

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NEVADA

The Neon Museum casts a glow in Las Vegas

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NEW MEXICO

View natural and architectural wonders

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OKLAHOMA

New museum honors Native Americans

44 UTAH Moab is a gateway to adventure in untamed southern Utah. Under Canvas provides a luxury glamping experience along with the ultimate room with a view.

BAILEY MADE PHOTOGRAPHY

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SOUTHWEST | BREWERIES

Ultimate Beercation

ELK VALLEY BREWING COMPANY Oklahoma City Owner John Elkins has been brewing for nearly 20 years and has dedicated himself to craft beer since opening Elk Valley in 2014. Four “core brews” — Firefly Crew (witbier), Magic Juice (double IPA), Tenkiller Pilsner and Straight Razor Pale Ale — are joined by a rotating menu of specialty and seasonal releases. ▶ elkvalleybrew.com

Road trip to some of the region’s best breweries

By Kae Lani Palmisano

T

HE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST IS ideal for road trips.

Travelers are drawn to the long stretches of highway that wind through landscapes that shift from prairies to desert. For beer lovers looking for a roadside libation, here are 10 of the region’s best breweries:

LA CUMBRE BREWING COMPANY

HUSS BREWING COMPANY Tempe, Ariz.

With a wide range of styles on tap, Huss Brewing has a beer to suit any taste.

But if you want to try the best that Huss has to offer, sample the Oktoberfest, a 2019 Great American Beer Festival silver medal winner in the Americanstyle amber lager category, and 2015 sweet stout bronze medalist Husstler Milk Stout. ▶ hussbrewing. com

LA CUMBRE BREWING COMPANY Albuquerque, N.M. La Cumbre means pinnacle, peak or summit, which speaks to this brewery’s aspirations. The results can be experienced in its Elevated IPA, a 2011 gold medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival, and the simply named La Cumbre Beer, which took gold for international-style lager at the 2016 World Beer Cup. ▶ lacumbrebrewing.com

HUSS BREWING COMPANY

BAD BEAT BREWING Henderson, Nev. Bad Beat is located just south of Las Vegas, and a visit is no gamble. The brewery has four beers available year-round and eight beers that rotate seasonally. A crowd-pleaser is The Ringer, a German-style pilsner that’s crisp and flavorful, yet balanced. ▶ badbeatbrewing.com

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SOUTHWEST | BREWERIES

REVISION BREWING COMPANY Sparks, Nev. In only its second year of operation, Revision Brewing’s Revision IPA took gold and its Doubled-Up IPA took silver at the 2018 World Beer Cup Awards.

Last year, its barrel-aged Finite Madness stout won gold at the 2019 European Beer Star competition. ▶ revision brewing.com

ROUGHTAIL BREWING COMPANY Oklahoma City Hop lovers will enjoy the beers from Roughtail Brewing Company. The Hoptometrist IPA is a great starting point, but to see just how far this brewery can go with a strong-butbalanced hoppy beer, Everything Rhymes With Orange is a citrusy, hazy, unfiltered IPA that is flavorful, but not overpowering. ▶ roughtailbeer.com

REVISION BREWING COMPANY

ARMADILLO ALE WORKS

ARMADILLO ALE WORKS Denton, Texas Between its year-round beers, specialty brews and super rare limited releases, there’s always something interesting at Armadillo Ale Works.

If your craving runs to sweet and mild, 2018 World Beer Cup honey beer gold medalist Honey Please is sure to satisfy. ▶ armadilloaleworks.com

WREN HOUSE BREWING COMPANY

WREN HOUSE BREWING COMPANY Phoenix There’s always something new at Wren House Brewing Company, and crowds often line up whenever new limited-release beers go on sale. To get a taste of Wren House’s Arizona flair, try the Valley Beer, an American-style lager and silver medalist at the 2020 Best of Craft Beer Awards. ▶ wrenhousebrewing. com

TRULY SOCIAL

BOSQUE BREWING COMPANY Bernalillo, N.M. For a flavorful and adventurous beer trip, be sure to swing by Bosque Brewing Company. Its inventive beers are paired with creative pizza pies from sister restaurant Restoration Pizza. Try the Elephants on Parade, a fruited wheat ale. ▶ bosquebrewing.com

POLICY KINGS BREWERY Cedar City, Utah Family-run Policy Kings opened in late 2018 and is leading the nascent brewing scene in southern Utah with high-quality craft beers, including a Kolsch and the Green Wood Porter. ▶ policykingsbrewery.com

10Best.com is your source for what’s tops in travel, food and culture, providing inspiration to explore the world around you.

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TEXAS | TOURISM

Urban Cowboys Even the cities are bigger in Texas

Austin’s Wild Basin Wilderness Preserve AUSTIN CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

By Sandy Smith

EL PASO

FORT WORTH

DALLAS

TEXAS AUSTIN HOUSTON SAN ANTONIO

J

UST AS TEXAS IS known for its regional charms — canyons in West Texas, the greenery of hill country and beaches along the Gulf Coast — it also has six of the country’s 20 largest cities. Each has a “different personality and flavor, offering up distinct experiences that make Texas the perfect destination for any traveler,” says Chelsea Hartnett, who as a communications specialist at Travel Texas knows these attributes well. Dallas-based travel blogger Jasmine Alley agrees. “They say everything is bigger in Texas, and there’s no exception when it comes to the cities in Texas. Each city also has its own culture, which draws people in.”

Sure, the stars are big and bright in the heart of Texas, but the city lights sparkle, too. Here’s a look at what makes them attractive destinations:

Austin is the state’s capital, home to the University of Texas and the selfproclaimed “Live Music Capital of the World.” But don’t ignore what Alley says is “arguably the prettiest (urban) nature in Texas.” Hartnett agrees, calling the nation’s 14th-largest city an “outdoor enthusiast’s paradise.”

Once normal scheduling resumes, live music is a must at spots like Antone’s, The Continental Club or Scoot Inn. And the annual South by Southwest Conference and Festivals brings the music and film industries to town each spring. austintexas.org

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TEXAS | TOURISM Dallas, the ninth-largest city in the country, and No. 16 Fort Worth are separated by about 30 miles and are often collectively referred to as the DFW Metroplex.

Dallas is considered the more cosmopolitan of the pair. “It is known for its food and great shopping,” Alley says.

Hartnett suggests the Bishop Arts District, which features 60 independent boutiques, galleries, restaurants, bars and coffee shops. And speaking of libations, Dallas lays a strong claim as the place where the margarita was first mixed and pays homage with the Margarita Mile, featuring some of the best places to enjoy the drink frozen or on the rocks. visitdallas.com

Franklin Mountains State Park TEXAS TOURISM

Fort Worth “has a rich cattle ranching background, and you’ll find Old West cowboy vibes throughout the city,” Alley says. A twice-daily cattle drive at the Fort Worth Stockyards National Historic District “brings the Old West to life right before your eyes,” Hartnett says. fortworth.com

Dallas Arts District JOSEPH HAUBERT

El Paso may be the 20th-largest city in the country, but it “is a big city with small-town vibes,” Alley says. Known as “Sun City” for its abundance of sunshine, it borders Mexico and New Mexico and captures the feeling of both, Hartnett says. It is a launching point for a tour of historic missions, the oldest dating back nearly 340 years. Franklin Mountains State Park and the sacred desert sanctuary Hueco Tanks State Park are each less than 50 miles from downtown and offer year-round hiking, mountain biking and rock climbing terrains. visitelpaso.com

River Walk VISITSANANTONIO.COM

Space Center Houston SPACE CENTER HOUSTON

Houston, the nation’s fourth-largest city, is inextricably linked with spaceflight.

NASA’s Space Center Houston, the official visitor center of NASA Johnson Space Center and a Smithsonian affiliate, is a must-see attraction, Hartnett says.

The center includes 400 space artifacts and special experiences like lunch with an astronaut.

But why settle for Tang when you can enjoy world-class dining and cocktails — including 14 semifinalists in the 2020

James Beard Awards. And reserve time in the spring for the massive Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, which features cowboys, horses, barbecue and celebrities. visithoustontexas.com

San Antonio is ripe with history, Alley says. Who could forget The Alamo?

But other Spanish colonial missions are also worth exploring in the nation’s seventh-largest city. At the annual Fiesta San Antonio — held almost every spring since 1891 — parades are abundant, with Tejano, jazz and mariachi performances.

While San Antonio’s famed River Walk is always worth a visit, Hartnett says it is more energetic than usual during the Fiesta. visitsanantonio.com

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TEXAS | AUSTIN

Aquatic Austin Paddle your way around the capital city LIVE LOVE PADDLE

By Kathryn Streeter

A

FTER LIVING IN AND

paddleboarding around Austin, Texas, for a few years, I realize how deeply I’d absorbed the psyche of the city from that vantage point. In fact, I would argue that paddleboarding presents the city in fresh, interesting ways, inviting travelers to know it

more intimately.

To help deepen your appreciation for Austin, hop aboard a standup paddleboard (SUP) and onto the Colorado River, Lady Bird Lake or Barton Springs.

Consider these five waterfront rental companies operating along the Ann and Roy Butler Hike-and-Bike Trail, Austin’s 10-mile river-hugging path. For post-SUP refreshments, each operator offers a favorite establishment:

LIVE LOVE PADDLE A personable operation on the south bank of the Colorado River, Live Love Paddle (livelovepaddle.com) was opened in 2009 by wife/husband team Beverley and Casey Vick. Its policies reflect a distinctive customer-friendly orientation. For example, it does not charge a weekend rate on Fridays, and

it offers free storage lockers for your valuables while you’re on the water. If you want a private customized tour, Live Love Paddle will make it happen.

Afterward, walk the few steps to 1618 Asian Fusion restaurant (1618asianfusion.com), a favorite of the Vicks, where you can refuel on pho with brisket and a tropical cocktail.

EPICSUP On the quieter end of the river near Snake Island, where the water widens to form a cove, EpicSUP (epicsup.com) offers a peaceful paddleboarding experience.

Manager Dale Rogers describes the location as more serene, with less water traffic, making it especially desirable for those wanting a strong nature boost. It’s also a terrific choice for novices. “We spend time and teach beginners everything they need to know; no experience is necessary,” Rogers says.

Rogers’ go-to restaurant is Mour Café (mourcafe.com) for locally sourced fare and a full bar showcasing regional craft brews on tap.

EPICSUP

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TEXAS | AUSTIN

TEXAS ROWING CENTER Located near Austin High School, Texas Rowing Center (texasrowingcenter. com) is the city’s largest SUP rental operation with more than 400 paddleboards. It’s perfectly placed to begin a long, lazy afternoon on the water drinking up city sights.

Glide eastward past Zilker Park and under various bridges.

Owner Matt Knifton gives the nearby “Austin-casual” Pool Burger (poolburger.com) a hearty thumbs-up.

If prompted, he’d urge you to try the cheeseburger, crinkle-cut fries and a mai tai.

MATTHEW GODWIN

AUSTIN PADDLE SHACK If you’re hoping to learn about Austin’s iconic buildings and landmarks, Austin Paddle Shack’s (austinpaddle. com) two-hour Skyline Tour will weave history and lore to educate and entertain. You’ll gain a new appreciation for the city’s urban architecture and explosive growth, and with the business’ low guest-to-guide tour ratio,

you’ll probably make some friends.

Paddle Shack co-owner Michael Fischer recommends the smoked meats at nearby Terry Black’s BBQ (terryblacksbbq.com). Black hails from Lockhart, the unofficial barbecue capital of Texas, and the restaurant offers an authentic experience. “My favorite barbecue joint in the country, hands down,” Fischer says.

CONGRESS AVENUE KAYAKS Austin is a paddle-happy town, according to Congress Avenue Kayaks (congresskayaks.com) owner Darla McDonnell. The highly visible water rental business is in the Waller Creek Boathouse and occupies an enviable footprint near the Congress Avenue Bridge, home to the largest urban bat colony in North America. For the

ambitious, join the 2.5-hour guided downtown-to-Barton Springs tour, a blended urban-nature adventure that introduces you to the quiet spring-fed waterway of Austin’s Barton Springs.

Afterward, McDonnell suggests heading to Alta’s Café (altascafe. com) for a healthy, energy-boosting King Kale smoothie that “tastes like a Christmas tree — piney and woodsy.”

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ARIZONA | GRAND CANYON

Still Shining Grand Canyon begins its second century as a national park

View from the South Rim GETTY IMAGES

By Lisa Davis

O

NLY ONE OF THE Seven

Natural Wonders of the World resides in North America: the Grand Canyon. The canyon has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 for being “the most spectacular gorge in the world.�

The visually powerful landscapes, including temple-esque buttes and

multihued topography, typically attract 6 million visitors each year to Grand Canyon National Park (nps.gov/grca), which celebrated its 100th anniversary as a national park last year.

To see just a glimpse of what the canyon has to offer, take the Bright Angel Trail on the South Rim, which drops into the canyon from Grand Canyon Village and includes the Indian Gardens, a lush ecosystem with cottonwood trees, grasses and a variety of wildlife. Or

take the shuttle bus from the village to another hiker favorite, the 7-mile South Kaibab Trailhead, which leads down to the Colorado River.

Hiking, camping, canoeing, biking and other outdoor activities have made the Grand Canyon a popular travel destination for a century, but there are newer offerings, too. In 2019, the area was designated an International Dark Sky Park. The Grand Canyon holds its annual Star Party events in June,

but visiting in the winter and spring promises smaller crowds, shorter lines and easier parking, and the lowhanging sun projects stunning shadows inside the canyon.

Stargazers should stop by the El Tovar Hotel, Yavapai Point or any overlook on Desert View Drive to enjoy the sunset and watch millions of stars shine. And catch sparkling-clear views of the Milky Way at Mather Point and Yavapai Point.

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NEVADA | NEON MUSEUM

By Dawn Gilbertson and Jefferson Graham

City Lights

Y

Las Vegas history meets Instagram opportunity

THE NEON MUSEUM

THE NEON MUSEUM

DAWN GILBERTSON/USA TODAY

OU COULD BREEZE THROUGH the

outdoor Neon Museum (neonmuseum.org) in less than 30 minutes, snapping a few photos of vintage Vegas signs before returning to the action on nearby Fremont Street or the Las Vegas Strip.

But then you wouldn’t learn about the city’s first racially integrated hotel casino (the short-lived Moulin Rouge) or why the Golden Nugget casino featured the year 1905 on its glittery facade instead of 1946, the year it opened. The Las Vegas history lesson comes only with a guided tour of the downtown museum, a boneyard filled with 250 neon signs from Vegas’ past, 17 of them restored and still glowing.

Along with the hot-pink sign from the defunct Liberace Museum and giant nugget from the Golden Nugget casino, visitors will find artifacts from closed or renovated casinos and hotels.

The giant skull from Treasure Island’s family-friendly pirate show days is there, and so is the genie’s lamp from Aladdin Hotel and Casino.

There are signs from roadside motels and a mini-mart that beckoned hungover travelers headed back to California with free aspirin and “tender sympathy.”

In addition to Las Vegas trivia, the guide on our onehour night tour taught us the chemistry of neon and about the notorious gambler, casino owner and criminal Benny Binion of Binion’s Horseshoe, who Vegas visitors have to thank for replacing sawdust with carpeting on casino floors.

Our guide also gave us a tip for dating signs: Those built before 1970 have spikes or ladders, on which workers used to climb eight to 10 stories to change the bulbs.

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NEW MEXICO | ARCHITECTURE

Adobe Abounds Discover these historic New Mexico churches

By Stacey Zable

A

RCHITECTURE AND HISTORY ENTHUSIASTS need only take

a short drive from Taos, N.M., to view prime examples of the state’s iconic adobe structural style. Still active places of worship, these 200-year-old parishes offer a tribute to the legacy and enduring culture of New Mexico:

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS CHURCH

EL SANTUARIO DE CHIMAYO

Ranchos de Taos Built between 1772 and 1816, this majestic Spanish colonial beauty lies in a quaint village only 4 miles south of Taos. This National Historic Landmark has inspired such artists as Georgia O’Keeffe, Ansel Adams and Paul Strand.

Striking features of this 120-foot-long example of Franciscan architecture include twin bell towers, an arched portal entrance, 6-foot-thick walls and high viga (wooden beam) ceilings. The church is so revered that its walls receive a new layer of adobe from parishioners during an “enjarre” — or re-mudding — every June.

The interior is a controlled environment designed to protect the 19th-century painting by Henri Ault, The Shadow of the Cross, which casts a mysterious glow in the dark. sfdataos.org

Chimayo Approximately 50 miles south of Taos, this Spanish colonial National Historic Landmark was built from 1813 to 1816 on soil that is said to have healing properties. Attracting close to 300,000 visitors a year, the church is a popular destination for Catholic pilgrimages in addition to being a draw for those seeking a cure for their afflictions.

The small adobe church offers such architectural elements as wooden doors and twin front towers with belfries. Inside, one of the chapel’s walls is filled with hanging canes, braces and wheelchairs, paying homage to those who found “cures” at the church. A small prayer room houses “El Pocito,” a hole filled with the purportedly magic soil. holychimayo.us

VISIT TAOS (2)

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NEW MEXICO | WHITE SANDS

No Mirage Newest national park is a winterlike wonderland DIANA LAMBDIN MEYER

By Diana Lambdin Meyer

A

MERICA’S NEWEST NATIONAL PARK spreads

across the New Mexico landscape like a snowy playground. Families sled down brilliant white hillsides, laughing and screaming, then climb back up to do it all over again.

But it’s not snow. This is White Sands National Park (nps.gov/whsa), 275 square miles of the world’s largest dune field of gypsum sand, a mineral found in drywall and plaster of paris. The Permian Sea, rich in calcium and sulfate, covered this region nearly 250 million years ago. When it retreated, the calcium and sulfate created layers of gypsum, which have since been crafted by the wind into hills and dunes of sand.

One 8-mile road loops through the dreamscape of White

Sands, which had its status changed from national monument to national park last December. There are five short hiking trails totaling about 9 miles, but otherwise, people are allowed to climb and play and explore wherever. For a rare warm-weather treat, bring your snow saucer — or purchase one, subject to availability, at the visitors center.

Located 52 miles north of Las Cruces, White Sands is near the U.S. Army’s missile testing range of the same name.

It’s a sparsely populated area of New Mexico, and the park occasionally closes for several hours while the military conducts tests. That’s one reason you should call the park or visit the website before you visit.

You also want to ask about the weather — specifically the wind. The park contains 4.5 billion tons of gypsum sand, and even the slightest wind can create an unpleasant experience, so it will occasionally close if it’s very gusty.

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OKLAHOMA | CULTURAL HERITAGE

Honoring First Americans Long-awaited museum has a new name

T

First Americans Museum

HE MUCH ANTICIPATED AMERICAN Indian Cul-

tural Center and Museum in Oklahoma City is getting a new name.

Last December, city and tribal officials announced the facility will be called the First Americans Museum (FAM).

Construction on the 175,000-square-foot building, expected to open next spring, began in 2006 but was delayed for years after the project ran out of funds and the local legislature refused to allocate more. In 2016, the city, state and tribal nations reached an agreement to finish construction.

“As we approach the opening of this world-class museum, I was in full agreement with the leadership of the initiative that it was appropriate to move forward with a brand that truly reflects the story we’re going to tell here,” Oklahoma City Mayor David Holt said at the time of the announcement. “As a proud Osage and a proud mayor, I am thrilled to see this exciting project move forward as the First Americans Museum. FAM will be a unique, global destination where we

celebrate our native culture and the 39 tribal nations in Oklahoma today.”

The museum, located along the bank of the Oklahoma River just south of downtown Oklahoma City, will house artifacts that tell the history of the state’s federally recognized tribes. It will showcase art, host educational programs and include a family discovery center with immersive activities. A full-service restaurant will offer Native American-inspired cuisine, and the museum store will sell authentic handmade items created by First American artists.

“This cultural center and museum will serve as a dynamic venue where tribal voices celebrate Native American culture and contributions to our state,” says Bill Anoatubby, Chickasaw Nation governor and chairman of the Native American Cultural and Educational Authority, the state agency building the facility. “Tribes are an active and stabilizing force in Oklahoma with deep and permanent roots. Through this museum, we carry forward our stories and culture for the benefit of all Americans today and in the future.”

MATT BROWN

“Tribes are an active and stabilizing force in Oklahoma with deep and permanent roots.

Through this museum, we carry forward our stories and culture for the benefit of all Americans today and in the future.”

Representatives of 39 tribal nations

— BILL ANOATUBBY, Chickasaw Nation governor and chairman of the Native American Cultural and Educational Authority SHANE BROWN

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UTAH | ADVENTURE

Moab Mood Red-rock landscape is an ideal playground for outdoors enthusiasts

Canyonlands National Park BAILEY MADE PHOTOGRAPHY

By Sarah Sekula

I

F YOU’RE ITCHING FOR adventure,

Moab, Utah, is a solid choice.

Situated between Arches and Canyonlands national parks, it has its share of rough and rugged terrain jampacked with boundless beauty.

Settle in at Under Canvas (undercanvas. com), a glamping site about 7 miles north of town and a stone’s throw from Arches National Park. The deluxe tents, complete with a king-size bed, private bathroom, deck with lounge chairs (and dreamy views) and wood-burning stove,

make the perfect jumping-off point for adventure.

Where to first? Because you’re so close to Arches, a morning hike on the Devils Garden loop trail is a no-brainer. Plan for several hours since it’s nearly 8 miles round trip. And it’s a popular trail so be sure to go early.

Canyonlands National Park should also be high on your list, especially if you enjoy climbing, canyoneering and rappelling. Windgate Adventures (windgateadventures.com) will have you conquering towers, sheer sandstone cliffs and low-angle slabs in no time.

“The geography of the area, much like the rest of Utah, is so diverse and unlike anywhere else throughout the rest of the country,” says Ethan Peck, who lives in Carbondale, Colo., and travels to Moab often. “You’ve got the sun on the Martian-like rocks in the mornings and evenings, the red rocks against a pure blue sky or reflected in the Colorado River, the trail running, mountain biking and a refreshing swimming hole to wrap a long day.”

For more hiking during your stay, trek to the La Sal Mountains, located approximately 20 miles southeast of Moab

and nestled in the Manti-La Sal National Forest. Rob Steffens, who spends many winter weekends in Moab, recommends Mount Tukuhnikivatz and Mount Waas.

“Even if you didn’t want to do summits, just getting up to the passes around them (is) pretty phenomenal,” he says.

You can also sign up for a photography tour with Tom Tills (tomtilltours.com), who has 40 years of experience and knows Moab well. The red-rock arches, spires and hoodoos look spectacular at the golden hour, and you can learn to capture the Milky Way and star trails after sunset.

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ARIZONA | SEDONA

SOULFUL SERENITY Beyond the breathtaking beauty of its red-rock formations, Sedona, Ariz., has a reputation as a destination for soothing the soul. Many believe the town sits at the confluence of four energy vortexes — one male, one female and two combined male/female — that aid mental, emotional and spiritual rejuvenation.

GETTY IMAGES

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