From the Heart of West Berlin

Amorph Black / Berlin. With their premium shop right next to the Kurfürstendamm, Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl are fulfilling their dreams. Extraordinary items for an informed, highfashion clientele.

Text: Jan Joswig. Photos: Amorph Black All good things come in threes. Amorph Black is the third women's fashion store Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl have opened in West Berlin. Since 2008, the Amorph Concept Store and Amorph Blue have been doing pioneering work for progressive, young designers on the sleepy Westside. Now the old City West has been reawakened, from the Bikini Haus to Haus Cumberland. The Kurfürstendamm is on its way. With Amorph Black, the self-confessed "complete Westsiders" Jorde and Brennenstuhl used their intimate knowledge of the area, and they set up their premium store in the very place where the Kurfürstendamm is once again becoming sophisticated and luxurious, without having to flaunt or be flashy. With Amorph Black, the two adventurous fashion enthusiasts have managed a further pioneering achievement in the rapidly transforming Charlottenburg – and they have managed to set up the exact store they have always dreamed of.

No Bland Mediocrity

In the minimalistic, elegant interior that works with dynamic alignments and shiny surfaces, Jorde and Brennenstuhl present their unconventional mix of established names and new discoveries. Alongside Acne, hang washable silk tops by Toupy, beside T by Alexander Wang, you can find chunky knitwear by

Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl in their dream store.

Berlin designer Maiami. Jorde and Brennenstuhl are expanding their own label, Amorph, from scarves to T-shirts and cashmere sweaters. In order to be successful in an increasingly cramped market, you must go against the tide. You have to be a brave forager, searching the more secret corners of the fashion world and making clear statements. In these worrying times of conformity, individual distinctiveness is the best way to surprise and delight your customers. This is how Christian Brennenstuhl summarises the philosophy: "Buy extremes, then you'll be successful. Don't go for bland mediocrity." Iris Jorde adds: "We had a label like Iro for quite a while before it became an InStyle talking point. We had high top sneakers very early, as far back as last year. Everyone only Isabel Marant's in the magazines. We had the good fortune to buy them from Serafini and Monika Corte. The customers quickly notice something like that – and also that the Isabel Marant sneakers cost 550 euros, ours cost 250 euros."

Well-Prepared for the Hype

Just six months after opening at the end of March 2012, word of the store has spread so rapidly that the first brands are already coming knocking. Jorde and Brennenstuhl will be viewing Forte Forte in Milan, and, in Paris, Helmut, the second line by Helmut Lang. The jeans brand 1921 Jeans cooperated with the two for an exclusive trousers design, "finished by Amorph." With a top brand portfolio at a top location, Jorde and Brennenstuhl are delighted about the West Berlin hype. They back it up with substance. Christian Brennenstuhl's eyes light up: "Amorph Black is the essence of everything that we always wanted to be."

Amorph Black

Schlüterstrasse 37, 10629 Berlin/Germany, T0049.30.60924916 shop.amorph-berlin.com Opening: March 2012. Owners: Iris Jorde, Christian Brennenstuhl Staff: 4. Retail space: 150 sqm Labels: 1921 Jeans, Acne, Amorph, Avelon, Forte Forte, Goldsign Jeans, Helmut, Humanoid, IRO, Lala Berlin, Maiami, Marlene Birger, Mother Jeans, Roberto Collina, T by Alexander Wang, Toupy Shoes: Acne, Malene Birger, Monika Corte, Serafini

Confessional and Padded Cell

St offs ücht ig / Ham burg. Swim with the masses? That's not for Philipp Kaczmarek and Alessandro De Pasquale, with their Stoffsüchtig in Hamburg they show just how exciting multi-brand stores can be.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Matthias Wolf A room height of five metres, red concrete walls, LED wall installations – many people entering the store for the first time stop dead in their tracks and stare. This is exactly what the two owners who opened Stoffsüchtig in May 2011 in Hamburg's HafenCity want to see.

New Spirit

Philipp Kaczmarek founded Stoffsüchtig as a platform for special fashion plus bar about four years ago. Studying fashion and design at the AMD, he had already created Stoffsüchtig as part of his final assignment and so this has now turned into a reality. Initially in Hamburg's Rotenbaumchaussee – together with Felix Nitschke at the time still - Alessandro De Pasquale has taken on his role since January 2011. "But we wanted to grow, the old location was too normal and hardly had any foot traffic", says Philipp Kaczmarek. There are significantly more fashion shops in the Überseeboulevard. In two, three years, says Philip Kaczmarek, the HafenCity will be one of the most sought after shopping addresses in Hamburg. That in future there could also be large chain stores there, doesn't put him off. Stoffsüchtig is too different for that. The lifestyle surrounding it is all part of it, the fashion parties and late night shopping. And the bar next door which is to be relaunched in the spring.

Wearable to Challenging

Berlin, Copenhagen, London and Amsterdam all number amongst the preferred order goals of Kaczmarek and De Pasquale. Wearable items are mixed with a healthy portion of challenging items, including the vegan high fashion label Umasan whose designer learned at Yamamoto. Tigha from Düsseldorf is more commercial, or Johnny Love from Norway with timeless jackets in a perfect fit. Added to this are extravagant evening gowns by David Tomaszewki and

Sopopular for men with unusual mixed pattern shirts. The range for men and women is vast, there are many labels. Also because Stoffsüchtig offers young designers a forum. "That makes it even fresher and more vibrant", says Philipp Kaczmarek. In May of last year, the two Bochum lads raised their fledgling online shop stoffsuechtig.de and are pleased with the positive response. They can imagine having other shops in different cities. But it still has to be personal, as Stoffsüchtig reflects the essence of its owners. "We are very much alive, we love going out and having fun with fashion, we are open to everything", says Philipp Kaczmarek. That's something that can be felt and hits the clientèle's nerve.

They march to a pleasantly different beat. Philipp Kaczmarek and Allessandro De Pasquale, owners of Stoffsüchtig.

Stoff süch tig

Überseeboulevard 2, 20457 Hamburg/ Germany, www.stoffsuechtig.de, www.stoffsuechtig-hafencity.de Opening: May 2011 Owners: Philipp Kaczmarek and Alessandro De Pasquale Staff: 4 Retail space: 222 sqm Women's labels: including Ann Soho, Blonde No.8, Coatpeople, Crumpet, Diamond in the snow, Esther Perbandt, F.rau, Firma, Franzius, Gestuz, Julia Starp, justJunkies, Kilian Kerner Senses, Libertine Libertine, Mio Animo, Modström, Nanni, Philippa Lindenthal, Pop CPH, Saint Noir, THVM, Tigha, Alles aus Liebe Men's labels: including Big E, Firma, Hannibal, Homecore, J.C.Rags, Junk de Luxe, Kilian Kerner Premium, Libertine Libertine, Patrick Mohr, Pop CPH, Red Collar Project, Saint Noir, Sixpack France, THVM, Umberto Valati, YMC Accessories: including Gretchen, House of Cases, Hüftgold, Kiss, Nineteen Eighty-Eight