Urban Forest

Cap: Friendly Hunting Scarf: Friendly Hunting Backpack: Luis Trenker Waistcoat: Cervolante Denim shirt: Barbour Trousers: Habsburg Shoes: Red Wing

190 FASHION Parka: Woolrich Jumper: Strellson Shirt: Arido Trousers: Scotch & Soda Shoes: Wolverine

FASHION 191 Jacket: Swiss Chriss Shirt: Steiner 1888 Trousers: Luis Trenker Boots: Handstich

Parka: Parajumpers Suit: Windsor Jumper: Strellson Shirt: Hartford Belt: Luis Trenker Shoes: Handstich

Duffle coat: Windsor Jumper: Henry Cotton‘s Shirt: Interlectual Leisure Trousers: Peuterey Shoes: Handstich

Jacket: Mountain Force Jumper: Friendly Hunting Trousers: Han Kjøbenhavn Shoes: Wolverine

FASHION 195 Jacket: Meindl Scarf: Friendly Hunting Trousers: SLVR by Adidas Shoes: Red Wing

A Homogeneous Whole: The gallery from the Viennese Palais Liechtenstein integrates seamlessly into the interior decoration of the new 14 oz. in Berlin's Kurfürstendamm.

A Homage to Berlin

14 oz. / berlin. The new 14 oz. on Kurfürstendamm is setting standards – not only when it comes to architecture. The western branch of Karl-Heinz Müller's store in Haus Cumberland is truly grand, spanning 600 square metres, it's a concept worth seeing.

Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Ingo Robin Cary Grant donned his effortless smile – the black and white photo over the counter of the new 14 oz. stands for subtle, masculine luxury. And is key to the concept, on which the store relies. It was one the events of the autumn for the industry, when, in October, the red carpets were rolled out over the heated pavements of Kurfürstendamm 193/194. Karl-Heinz Müller had issued invites to the opening of his third store. The 600 square metre store is setting standards, and not only when it comes to architecture. Originally, Haus Cumberland, once a boarding

Spoilt for choice: In Karl-Heinz Müller's new store, too, every- thing revolves around the blue product.

house in Wilhelminian times, was supposed to become a luxury hotel, a sort of second Adlon in the West.

Patina, bricks and a library

For the interior decoration alone, this is worth a trip to Kurfürstendamm. With a light touch, the architects integrated an old art nouveau library from the Viennese Palais Liechtenstein into the new 14 oz. So custom made that many guests are under the illusion that this gallery was always there, just as with its ceiling which seems old and which in reality was transformed into this state by a skilful painter. Nothing is coincidental here, everything on site has been agreed upon, worked on and patinated until it finally "fits in." There are some details that the guests don't consciously notice – like the specially-made spotlights on the ceiling, which hark back to film studios in the golden '20s, and which fill the whole room with warm light, or the electronically-adjustable LEDs in the library wall, with which the products can be bathed in different atmospheres. There are separate entrances for men and women, the back part of the store links both. The product range comprises luxury items that don't rely on big designer names, but on a quality product. "The same woman who wears a Dior dress in the evening, for example, obviously also needs an outfit for the daytime," says Karl-Heinz Müller.

Solid oak, rather than veneer The use of old and new building materials with spolia and set pieces made of a combination of "raw luxury" and new technology was already characteristic of

"You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time." Karl-Heinz Müller, owner of 14 oz.

A launch with friends: from the left Jason Denham, Karl-Heinz Müller, Adriano Goldschmied and Nigel Cabourn.

the first 14 oz., which Müller likes to call his "head office." The look of the new store is, no doubt thanks to the height of the ceilings, more spacious and more imposing. Nothing was quickly thrown together here: solid oak instead of veneer, real pieces rather than plastic veneering, real brick walls instead of fake wallpaper. "You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time," describes Karl-Heinz Müller, who clearly enjoyed working on his new project. As well as the others, who helped him with it. F.C. Gundlach, a German fashion photography grand seigneur, personally chose black and white motifs from decades gone by for the store. It's not only a homage to Berlin, a reminiscence of the '50s, when Ku'damm was still the centre of fashion and German couturiers like Uli Richter shaped the look. In other respects too, the future is telling the team around the trade fair boss to "go west": the headquarters of the Bread & Butter will move from Central Berlin to Haus Cumberland, and will take up two storeys and 800 square metres.

14 oz. in Haus Cumberland

Theodor-Heuss Straße 15, Kurfürstendamm 193–194, 10707 Berlin/Germany Opening: October 2012 Owners: Karl-Heinz Müller Retail space: 600 sqm. Women's labels: 45 r.p.m., AG Adriano Goldschmied, Barbour, Bergfabel, Blauer, Canada Goose, Closed, Cruciani, Current/Elliott, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Equipment, Fidelity, Gloverall, Happy Sheep, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jbrand, Johnbull, Lavenham, Liebig, Ludwig Reiter, Mackintosh, Majestics, Meindl, Nudie Jeans & Co., Sahaja, Shoto, Splendid, Tricker’s, True Royal, Windsor, Woolrich Brands for Men: 3×1 by Scott Morrison, 45 r.p.m., Alden, Andersen-Andersen, Atelier LaDurance, barbour, Bergfabel, B.D. Baggies, Buttero, Canada Goose, Carhartt, Closed, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Edwin, Gloverall, G.R.P., Haversack, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jean Shop, Lavenham, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Ludwig Reiter, Meindl, Merz B. Schwanen, Mackintosh, Monitaly, Momotaro, Nigel Cabourn, Nudie Jeans Co., Quoddy, Prps, Red Wing Shoes, Salvatore Piccolo, Schiesser Revival, Shoto, Spiewak, Schott N.Y.C., Tellason, Ten C, Tricker’s, Viberg Boot, Windsor, Wolverine, Woolrich, Yuketen Accessories: Ben Alder, Borsalino, Ca4la, Drakes, Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan, Felisi, Filson Bags, GlobeTrotter, Headhunter, Himalaya Cashmere, King Baby Studio, Laco, Midori, Mühlbauer, Pantherella, Piet Breinholm, Stetson

Bright Sparks on the Back Burner

Meindl Auth ent ic Luxury / Munich . The right idea at the right time in the right place. Or, the right place at the right time for the right idea...that‘s it!

Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Meindl Authentic Luxury

Because the idea for a Meindl Lifestyle Store was sparked by Rolf Griesinger, Managing Director of the fashion agency "International Mode GmbH" with headquarters in Munich, as early as 2009. At the opening of the Meindl flagship store at the Kirchanschöring headquarters. "I loved the product, its haptic, its modernness. I was really taken with it that evening. And it was clear that Munich is the perfect location."

Sometimes you need luck

But, even for a man as wellconnected as Griesinger, finding the right location in Munich can still be a bit of a problem and as there were still lots to do, the spark remained on the back burner for the time being. But then! Then a stroke of good luck got the thing rolling again. Griesinger was offered the perfect shop at one of the most Munich of Munich's addresses, "Am Kostor" a mere stone's throw away from the Maximilianstrasse. At terms, that by Munich standards, were almost suspicious. But there weren't any catches to be found, even on closer inspection. So Rolf Griesinger quite simply grabbed it with both hands. On spec. Because it wasn't until this had been done that he called Markus Meindl, Managing Director and Head Designer of Meindl clothing. "Hi Markus, I have an idea..."

Honest and without kitsch

And because Markus Meindl had also had the idea of an authentic store in Munich going on the back burner for a while, the two of them quickly struck an agreement. The name was also found quickly too. "Meindl - Authentic Luxury", short and sweet and to the point. In terms of the product as much as the shop. Together with the Salzburg architects office "raum_bau : architekten", Griesinger and Meindl found the perfect means of implementing their vision. A fine balance between tradition and modern. The materials used, oak, raw iron and leather, were combined together perfectly to unfold their own unified strength. One special highlight can be seen in the smoothed copper floor which will produce a more intense patina over time. This honest store design is completely free of kitsch and provides a harmonious framework for the high-quality, handcrafted Meindl products. After all, the product is the main focus and covers 155 m2 and three intelligently-interwoven levels. Without any elitist posturing and despite the exclusivity of the materials and price range. People shouldn't be frightened

Rolf Griesinger: „I want the customers to handle the merchandise.“

of entering the place at all. Rolf Griesinger: "I want the customers to handle the merchandise so they can feel what's special about it. The haptic is a large part of what Meindl is about." The Meindl range was planned to be selective and harmonious right from the start and be complemented through the addition of special products. These include shirts by Salvatore Piccolo, belts by Dukes and bags by Filson and have been added since the launch. Griesinger and Meindl have exclusive Meindl shoes produced by the K+S shoe manufacturer. The stylish sneakers are made from the finest kidskin velour or the super-soft boots from chamois-tanned deerskin have emerged as winning products. Griesinger is especially delighted that the public is a mixed bag. "Some people make a special trip to get here, others simply drop in as they're shopping. We get young and old, tourists from the four corners of the earth, but mainly locals, they immediately respected the shop at the heart of their stamping grounds as genuine." That is an accolade that cannot be appreciated highly enough for anybody who knows Munich a little.

Meindl Authentic Luxury

Am Kostor 1, 80331 Munich/Germany www.meindl-munich.com. Opening: September 2012. Owner: Rolf Griesinger. Staff: 3. Retail space: 155 sqm. Labels: Meindl, Salvatore Piccolo, Filson, Dukes, Care Label, Dating New York.