30 minute read
A New Desirability
Blogger Zura Lindner of Shortstoriesandskirts presents fashion by Airfield.
Airfield CEO Walter Moser and Chief Marketing Officer Sophia Bitter are preparing the brand for the future.
Airfield. A NEW DESIRABILITY
The latest trends are already ingrained in Airfield’s fashion DNA: great news for the Austrian brand that has recently made some key adjustments on the way back to success. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Airfield
The look is simultaneously sporty and feminine, with strong colours and the occasional burst of opulence. Jersey-bonded nylon jackets, parkas in fresh silhouettes, and technical materials with playful details are all typical of Airfield’s womenswear, which has stood for these feminine, sporty looks since long before the athleisure trend hit the streets.
Out with the Old After years’ of success, the past five have been rather quiet for the brand from Seewalchen, mainly due to cleaner and more stern fashion trends. Airfield CEO Walter Moser considers these years to have been a time for stock-taking. “We have commissioned a wide market study in order to find out where we are and how consumers view the brand. The results have shown that we must focus on the essence of our brand in order to modernise it for the future.” Outdoor fashion, blazers, and indoor jackets are the core competence of Airfield, founded in 1994, which has its roots in functional sports and skiwear. Andreas Angerer joined the young Airfield design team as head designer a year ago in order to strengthen these core competences and to streamline the collection. “We went through all company levels right up to public image step by step,” says Moser. Aside from production and logistics, there is a new focus on sales. “Before, salaried employees were responsible for sales. The disadvantage here lies in the isolated display in the showroom,” says Moser. “We now cooperate with sales agencies for Germany. Airfield is a perfect match for their brand portfolios.” The agencies Boumans and Seebach are responsible for the North and the East, respectively. Berning is in charge of North Rhine-Westphalia and Michaelis of Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland. “The agents have a different approach and the necessary overview to place our brand in the correct position within the trade.” In other markets such as France and Russia, sales have been changed accordingly. Canada and the United States are to follow. “We want to work with our wholesalers to achieve sales that see Airfield regain its desirability,” says Walter Moser.
An Image – A Goa Gradually, all Airfield Stores and shop-inshops will be updated to a contemporary store design: with the appeal of a concept store where there is a lot to discover, from fashion to accessories. The new Airfield store in the “Fünf Höfe” in Munich, which opens in July, is a great example. In terms of communication it was also time for some modernisation. “We have been present in social media for several years now and we have strengthened this presence,” says Chief Marketing Officer Sophia Bitter. “Airfield was one of the first labels to take well-known blogger VikyandtheKid on board for the summer campaign one and a half years ago and among the first to book fashion icon Carmen Dell’Orefice for a generational campaign. The credo of our brand is modernity.” Airfield cooperates with bloggers and influencers like Annette Weber from Glamometer and Füsun Lindner from Shortstoriesandskirts. June will see the release of an online corporate blog with a style report, in addition to print campaigns in leading fashion magazines. “It is important to convey the same image across all channels,” says Sophia Bitter. Walter Moser adds: “We want to make sure the product is once again met with the appreciation and desire it deserves.” www.airfield.at
WANT IT
The Little Sister?
SEIDENFELT. When Freds Bruder launches a new bag collection, the first question that comes to mind is whether this is the little sister. However, Seidenfelt is clearly an influ encer-affine label right from the outset. It’s too cool to be cocky, too stylish to stand in the shadow of its brother for even a moment. To this end, the new label has hired an entire design team. Seidenfelt relies on a manufac tory approach, which it translates into clean styles for the commercial price segment. The purchase prices for shoppers, bucket bags, cross-bodies, and bowling bags range from 18 to 36 Euros, with a mark-up between 2.7 and 2.8. The base collection consists of 10 designs and is continually updated with up to 10 current trend styles. Seidenfelt entered the German retail market in October 2017. It is currently serving this market exclusively via its own online shop, but the plan is to place the brand at selected retailers after its appearance at the Panorama in July 2018. For now, however, customers such as Conleys have already committed to Seidenfelt.
Freds Bruder, Dinslaken/Germany, T 0049.2064.6042121, vertrieb@fredsbruder.de, www.seidenfelt.de
A Nest With Wings
NIÙ. The history of this brand is based on two opposites that link the two founders, the siblings Serena and Bruno Cibischino, in a rather exciting manner. On the one hand, Niù, the name of the Udine-based firm, is based on the Friulian word for “nest”. The brand is clearly proud of its “Made in Italy” pedigree. On the other hand, the 21-strong design team seems magically drawn to the most mysteri ous places in the world - mostly in Africa - to find inspiration for the coming seasons. The Eyegasm agency has been representing the sophisticated total look collection in Germa ny and Austria since last January. “We took over Niù when it had 20 customers with the aim of adding 70 to 75 more,” Damir Prins-Ju ric and Henk Prins, the agency owners, say. The extraordinary cut of the Niù designs, the nonchalance of its styles, the exotic patterns and colours, and the exact fits had convinced them immediately. Niù produces two col lections per year within a classic pre-order model. The average purchase price for the summer and winter collections lies at 70 and 75 Euros respectively. The mark-up ranges from 2.7 to 2.8.
Niù S.R.L., Udine/Italy, T 0039.0432.526990, info@niu-fashion.it, www.niu-fashion.it
Fair Trade Knitwear From the Andes
KARINFRAIDENRAIJ. The collection of Munich-based designer Karin Fraidenraij immediately reveals her passion for finest camelid wool and sophisticated cuts. What one cannot see is the underlying philosophy. The high-quality llama and alpaca wool is sourced from traditional breeding farms in the highlands of the Andes. Karin Fraidenraij puts the idea of sustainability into practice by producing on-site under socially and ecologically fair conditions. Since 2011, she has been selling her knitwear collection for women via her own web shop, in a studio store in Munich’s “Wagnerstrasse”, and via se lected green fashion stores such as Glore. The designer produces one winter collection per year; it consists of approximately 25 items at retail prices between 30 and 300 Euros. In the long term, she intends to participate in trade shows and to acquire new e-retail partners. Her collection is currently available in Germa ny, Switzerland, and Japan.
Karin Fraidenraij, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.38898136, sales@ka-fraidenraij.com, www.karinfraidenraij.com
Nouveau Chic
HIRONAÉ PARIS. When Jennifer Druyer and Emilie Messal introduced their brand Hironaé Paris in January 2015, the heart of the collec tion was a fine selection of intricately crafted leather designs that focused primarily on the tradition of craftsmanship and the character istics of the material itself. Over the years, the collection has been expanded considerably and now offers basics such as t-shirts and jeans, as well as suits. Today, Hironaé Paris stands for contemporary French fashion and has positioned itself in the premium market alongside brands such as Anine Bing, Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, and Chloé in more than 10 European countries. The Style Manifest Agency has been representing the brand since the last autumn/winter collection and placed it at retailers such as Anita Hass and Jades. The purchase prices, which start at 32 Euros for a t-shirt and end at 389 Euros for a current bestseller like a jacket made of organic leather, have a mark-up of 2.7. Steve Hermann, the CEO of The Style Manifest Agency, plans to pursue a cautious expansion strategy in Germany. In the long term, he sees Hironaé Paris as a candidate for the standard ranges of contemporary department stores.
Hironaé SAS EMJD, Gemenos/France, T 0033.808.151781, emilie@hironae.com, www.hironae.com
Urban Adventures
HEIMPLANET. This Hamburg-based business is known primarily for its inflatable tents. However, the backpacks of the innova tive label are equally impressive. This season, Heimplanet introduces a revised version of its popular Monolith Daypacks. A whole range of improvements make this backpack the ultimate companion for travelling and everyday life. These include a larger laptop compartment, redesigned handles, and new colours and patterns. T-shirts featuring the proven Coolever technology, which ensures that sweat is immediately absorbed and thus removed from the body, are also available in new designs. The fibre combination of cotton, polyester, and spandex guarantees a high wearing comfort. The surface texture, which is 30 percent higher than in conven tional shirts, allows particularly fast moisture absorption and dries quicker. Naturally, this proves advantageous for sports and travelling, as the t-shirts can be reused much sooner after washing and hardly crease.
Heimplanet, Hamburg/Germany, T +49.40.999995500, info@heimplanet.com, www.heimplanet.com Do It Yourself
COSCOON. This Berlin-based natural cosmetics label has been breaking new ground in the industry since 2015. Customers are afforded an opportunity to “self-produce” natural cosmetics without extensive research and shopping. The pretty gift packaging not only contains the exact ingredients for the recipe, but also crucibles, hygiene gloves, labels, and detailed instructions. “We strive to offer everyone an opportunity to mix fresh cosmetics without anything that pollutes the skin and environment,” explains Sonja Steberl, a co-founder of Coscoon. “We believe many people enjoy the DIY angle. And we facilitate that.” Coscoon’s products use organic raw materials and natural ingredients of the highest quality. While selecting the recipes and suppliers, the two founders made sure that the products are free of silicones, parabens, synthetic fragrances, paraffin, and other petroleum derivatives. The oils and butter are from certified organic sources. In addition, none of the formulas use preserva tives of any kind.
Coscoon Cosmetics, Berlin/Germany, T +49.30.21954969, hello@coscoon.com, www.coscoon.com
Arrivederci Michelin Silhouette
BACON CLOTHING. That down is experiencing a revival is not least due to strong silhouettes that were first used in the avant-garde. Bacon Clothing is one the latest new players to enter the fray. The down jackets by the Italian brand impress with comfort, chic, and extraordinary features. The designer duo Andrea Pilato Barrara and Chiara Capitani combine new fits, exciting over-cuts, and innovative proportions with strong colours. The materials are sourced from companies around Milan. The down feathers are certified to European standards. The special blend ratio is responsible for the amazing lightness of the jackets. At a mark-up of 2.6, purchase prices range from 179 to 299 Euros. Per manent orders are possible via a stock list; the minimum order volume is 15 jackets. In addition, Bacon Clothing offers fast re-orders and delivery routes, as well as one collection per year. Customers in the German-speaking markets include Anita Hass Hamburg, Jades Düsseldorf, Zoë Saarbrücken, Ortner Dort mund, Abseits Stuttgart, Reyer Hallein, Diva by Makole Salzburg, and Attitude Verbier.
Bacon Clothing, Cernusu sul Naviglio/Italy, T 0039.02.38263654, office@agordat.com, www.baconclothing.com
Wunderkind
AXEL ARIGATO. A new sneaker star is born - and how it shines! When insider media chan nels are just as excited as Vogue, it’s clear that something special is happening. In this case, it’s a label founded by Max Svardh and Albin Johansson in 2014. The initial idea was to offer high-fashion sneakers at a reasonable price. Retail prices range from 180 to 230 Eu ros. The mark-up for NOS items and fashion styles is 2.4 and 2.6 respectively. The pace is high: there’s a “Drop of the Week” model on Instagram every week. The aim is to avoid seeming old-fashioned in the fast-paced world of social media. The label, which add ed clothing to its portfolio in 2017, opened its first flagship store, designed by renowned architect Christian Halleröd, in London. This first minimalistic sneaker temple was soon followed by others. Some of them - like the one in Stockholm - were only temporary. Retailers such as Le Bon Marché, Opening Ceremony, Lane Crawford, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges have already recognised the brand’s potential. The distribution partner for the German-speaking countries is Ben And.
Axel Arigato, Stockholm/Sweden, T 0046.76.0515429, wholesale@axelarigato.com, www.axelarigato.com
Fresh Catch
ROOS+ROOS. The euphoria with which Marion Hoferer of Munich-based agency Modeist speaks about her latest discovery is so contagious that “fresh catch” has two meanings in this case. On the one hand, Hoferer literally “fished” designer Michael Patrick Roos, whose bag manufactory was hidden in a courtyard in Cologne over the last few years, out of nowhere. On the other hand, Roos has been working with a rather unusual material for some time now: Nanai leather. It is salmon leather obtained in a pro cess developed over many years of research. The salmon skins, which are an industrial by-product of certified organic salmon farms, are tanned without using chromium. Roos cooperates with the Bavarian firm Nanai, the only German producer of salmon leather. Roos perceives his preferred material as the perfect substitute for exotic leathers such as ray, snake, ostrich, and alligator. He knows no limits when it comes to processing. Roos has developed his own braiding techniques, utilises washed and oiled leather, and uses coloured skins. Each bag is unique and every model is only manufactured in strictly limited quantities. As of next season, a limited edi tion will be sold through the Modeist agency. Purchase prices range from 150 to 450 Euros. Hoferer believes these bags are the perfect accessory for demanding customers who enjoy new things, product innovations, and sustainability.
Roos+Roos, Cologne/Germany, d7conceptstore@t-online.de, www.roosundroos.eu
Spirit of Milan
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI. The heart of Milan’s fashion world is Brera, an inspiring neighbourhood of small boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and cafés. Brera Essentials by Maurizio Baldassari pay homage to the spirit of this district. The casually elegant “Made in Italy” collection is run by a Milan-based family business that is highly customer-ori ented. The NOS menswear, consisting of timeless and modern pieces, is made of materials such as cashmere and antiperspi rant, multifunctional merino wool. The latter is also used by the sports industry. The focus is on knitwear such as blazers, sweaters, and cardigans, which are complemented by short coats and sporty blousons. Agentur Moor mann, which has a showroom in Düsseldorf, introduced the collection to the German market last season. The average purchase price for jackets and coats from the last win ter collection is 350 Euros. Cardigans set you back 198 Euros, while trousers cost 50 Euros. The mark-up is 2.8.
Maurizio Baldassari, Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.6596523, lisa@mauriziobaldassari.it, www.mauriziobaldassari.it
True Luxury
WOMMELSDORFF. Anne Schramm learned how the interplay of tradition and perfection can shape a product during her time at the couture house of Christian Dior. Today, she has turned both aspects into characteristic features of her Wommelsdorff knitwear collection, which combines old craftsman ship with modern innovation. Born in the Ruhr area, the designer founded her label in 2008 and named it after her grandmother Maria Wommelsdorff, who passed on her enthusiasm for traditional handicrafts to her granddaughter. The collection is made of highly exclusive materials processed by German knitters for a small, international customer base including Barney’s New York and Bon Marché Paris. In doing so, Schramm reflects on the original definition of luxury that excludes perpetual availability. As she knows every knitter and her knitting style personally, Schramm knows who is the best choice for each model. At the end, she sews the label into every item herself. This appre ciation, the time investment, and attention to detail are present in every piece. Purchase prices for cashmere sweaters and cardigans range from 330 to 410 Euros and from 380 to 850 Euros respectively.
Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt, Pahlen/Germany, T 0049.4803.6011, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.wommelsdorff-berlin.com
Relaxed Contemporary
JC SOPHIE. The collections of Netherlands-based brand JC Sophie convinced Colorful Trade’s Jörg Korfhage instantly with a carefree, feminine, and clear fashion state ment that underlines a very modern attitude. JC Sophie’s four collections per year deliver a playful total look that edges ever closer to the actual time of sale due to a split of delivery dates. Since the introduction of the brand in the German market with the autumn/winter 2018 collection, Colorful Trade has managed to win over customers such as 5 Secrets Fashionstore in Hamburg and Baily Diehl. The compact collection consists of 120 to 150 pieces and is clearly structured by theme. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices range from 49 Euros for tops to 99 Euros for knitwear. A B2B web shop is currently in the works and will offer customers additional digital services. As a first step, the agency intends to place JC Sophie in boutiques and owner-managed stores. After that, it will target the modern woman and contemporary fashion depart ments in fashion stores.
JC Sophie, AD Doorn/The Netherlands, T 0031.613.947041, info@jcsophie.nl, www.jcsophie.nl
Colourful Knitwear
ROSA & ME. Düsseldorf-based Dagmar von Schmaus launched her fashion label Rosa & Me in 2004. She places special emphasis on the comfortable fit of her high-quality gar ments and combines her cashmere products with silk, wool, micro modal, bamboo, and linen. The collection is inspired by various fashion trends from other countries and the respective production techniques. Rosa & Me strives to surprise with a variety of shapes and colours. The label interprets cashmere with a keen sense of what young women like to wear. This is how high-quality classics turn into new, light, and colourful trend pieces. The designs are characterised by comfortable cuts and modern shapes. Prints, inlays, cool slogans, and eye-catching appliqués adorn the approximately 80 different styles. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices range from 139 to 769 Euros for pullovers, cardigans, jogging pants, and scarves. The summer collections also include t-shirts and hot pants. Since the beginning of the year, Rosa & Me enjoys the support of Fashion Logistik GmbH in terms of delivery implementation. The collection can be viewed at the Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich.
Fashion Logistik GmbH, Schönau am Königssee/Germany, T +49.8652.65630.33, a.aschauer@fashion-logistik.com, www.fashion-logistik.com
Greater - Not Smaller, Not Equal
>A. The name Aksel Lund Svindal stands for many things: Alpine skiing, success, and popularity. Since this spring, the name also stands for an ecologically reconcilable and sustainably manufactured fashion collec tion. And while we’re discussing names: it’s called “Greater Than A”. In cooperation with renowned fashion designers and product developers, Svindal himself masterminded the creation of a sporty lifestyle collection for men made exclusively of recyclable or com postable materials. To mark the autumn/winter 2018 season, Michael Hoehenberger’s Munich-based agency Sta-yle officially launched the brand and started distribution in the German-speaking market. “I was convinced by the product after the very first meeting in Oslo, not only because of Aksel Lund Svindal, but also because of the design, the quali ties, the sustainability aspect, and my good experiences with Scandinavian companies. We were on the same wavelength immedi ately,” Hoehenberger says. In two collections per year, >A focuses on an uncomplicated, timeless, and up-to-date design language, as well as on a particularly luxurious athleisure look in terms of materials. Average purchase prices range from 20 to 40 Euros for t-shirts and from 100 to 255 Euros for jackets. All prices are subject to a 2.7 mark-up. In its very first order season, >A managed to acquire customers such as a A Better Story in Munich and Jennewein in St. Anton. This is just the beginning…
Atulus AS, Oslo/Norway, T 0047.950.24399, marius@greaterthana.no, www.greaterthana.no
For Urban Nomads
VEECOLLECTIVE. Berlin-based designer Lili Radu, who made a name for herself with innovative handbags, has launched a new, independent bag collection. “With VeeCol lective we have created a completely new, unique, and very modern product,” Radu says. “The lightness and wearability of the bags are unique in the market; we weave the very robust and waterproof nylon material ourselves.” A typical feature is the geometric design of the quilting, which ensures that the bags are collapsible and lends them a sculp tural look. The bags can be used as sports bags, shoppers, and weekenders. The models are available in three sizes and strong colours such as silver, platinum, gold, electric blue, hot red, neon lime, warm yellow, midnight blue, and black. The collection is comple mented by a backpack, a Vee Side Bag, and Vee Slides. The latter are summer slippers. A price example: the purchase price for the small bag is 55 Euros and it is sold for 149 Euros in retail. The two collections serve 130 stores worldwide, among them Ludwig Beck, Steffl, and Barney’s Japan.
VeeCollective GmbH, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.25781367, sales@vee-collective.com, www.vee-collective.com
Wearable Art
ABSTRACT. Fashion and art truly are the perfect combination. Anna Molteni, the designer and photographer who founded the accesso ries brand Abstract, is of the same opinion. The scarves and shawls of the label, which is located on the picturesque Lake Como, are exclusively manufactured in Italy and com bine craftsmanship with innovative weaving and finishing techniques. Sustainability and a respectful handling of natural resources have always been the top priorities. Molteni’s pas sion for photography and modern art forms the foundation for Abstract’s extraordinary look. Exclusive multi-stripe photographs look particularly striking on scarves and shawls made of high-quality organic cotton or espe cially soft linen. In addition to photo prints, Molteni enjoys experimenting with extraor dinary material blends and various finishing techniques. Abstract’s collection includes fashionable bandanas made of pure silk, extravagantly pleated scarves, and models featuring exceptional weaves - for both wom en and men. Purchase prices between 50 and 65 Euros mean that Abstract is at home in the premium segment. The calculation factor stands at 2.8.
Alberta Pepe, Milan/Italy, T 0039.393.1373868, albertapepeshowroom@gmail.com, www.am-abstract.it
The Perfume
AER SCENTS. Modern, complex, and distinctive - Stefan Kehl, a session make-up artist, and Ted Young-Ing, who has worked as an Art Director for brands such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Topshop, Brooks England, and Habitat in the past, launched their own perfume label in December 2017. Aer Scents combines their long-standing passion for fragrances, luxury, beauty, handcrafted products, and sustainability in one brand. The two founders create the recipes, look for the ingredients at small suppliers around the globe, and even design and fill the flacons. Aer Scents only uses herbal ingredients and has been awarded a cruelty-free certificate. All products are hand-crafted in Berlin. Most ingredients are organic or were foraged in the wild. The first series consists of the four extraordinary fragrances Nagarmotha, Cade, Amber, and Cedar. Aer Scents is currently available at selected retail partners such as The Store x Soho House Berlin, 10 Corso Como, and Wheadon. The retail price for 30ml of perfume is 120 Euros.
Aer Scents, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.178.5012882, aer@aerscents.com, www.aerscents.com Folkloric Patterns
DEVOTION TWINS. Greece is currently one of the most popular rediscovered tourist destinations. Blue seas, endless sunshine, good food, whitewashed houses, small islands, and light summer dresses - what more could one ask for? The Devotion Twins collection from Athens is inspired by folkloric patterns. One can choose from long and short dresses, wide tops and overalls, and shirts and shorts. The approximately 60 pieces, which are made of silk, viscose, and cotton, are produced in Greece. Accessories will be added next season. The label, which was founded in 2001, has 35 customers in the capital alone and another 60 throughout the country. Purchase prices range from 55 to 85 Euros, while retail prices range from 149 to 269 Euros. Workmanship and quality are first class. Customers in Germany include Baily Diehl, Classico, Typosphäre, Punch & Judy Düsseldorf, Shopfashion Hamburg, and Lemoni Munich. The collection is on display at the Premium in Berlin.
Wholesale Company, Athens/Greece, T 0030.210.2619679, info@devotion.gr, www.devotion.gr
Family Ties
NV-3. Fashionable, piece-dyed stretch pants made of cotton wool form the DNA of the NV-3 brand and its first collection for the spring/summer 2019 season. The label is as pragmatic as its name, but details add the spice. The driving force behind NV-3 is none other than designer Rino Stilli, who developed the elegant, highly fashionable trouser collection, which is manufactured in Italy, together with his two children Valentina and Manuel. The collection, which consists of approx. 20 items, focuses on two main silhouettes, a more commercial high-cut waist, a highly fashionable fit, and - above all - colours. “I was convinced by the interplay of elegance and streetwear, as well as the deli cate flair for a well-balanced colour palette. There are currently very few fashionable trou sers on the market, even though the jeans market is completely dormant,” says Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz. While the collection is aimed primarily at women, it also offers a small capsule programme for men. Following a successful test run for the autumn/winter season, the D-Tails agency plans to start distributing the brand in German-speaking countries in summer 2019. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices range from 69 to 199 Euros.
NV-3, Milan/Italy, T 0039.349.3639809, sales@nv-3.com, www.nv-3.com
The Shirt for Women
EDELLE. “Why can’t I have that?” is a question that Hilke Blömeke, the founder of the men’s shirt collection Edward Copper, was asked frequently in the past. “This demand became my personal incentive to create a blouse of the same quality.” This motivation has resulted in Edelle, an entire collection of women’s blouses. Once again, the focus is on modern cuts, the use of high-quality fabrics supplied by European manufacturers, and - last but not least - production within Europe. To achieve optimal wearing comfort, the collection pays great attention to details. The labels that come into contact with the skin have weaved edges, the mother-of-pearl buttons are not too thin, and the blouses boast soft cotton inserts. “When the first female customers started buying Edward Copper shirts in the smallest size available, we implemented our most popular model with female measurements, including a small shark collar featuring removable stiffeners and turned, soft-washed sleeves,” Blömeke explains. That was two years ago. Today, in the fourth season, Edelle also offers tunics, casual oversized styles, and subtle A-shapes made of TwoPly cotton qualities that can sometimes be garment-dyed. Some models are plain, while others sport fine or blocked stripes. The colour palette includes white, light blue, and pink, as well as navy, burned red, khaki, and indigo. Common to all models is the typical simplicity of Edward Copper and its understatement. Purchase prices range from 53 to 99 Euros, while retail prices range from 149 to 279 Euros. So how is Edward Copper itself doing? It’s still performing well at retailers such as Hirmer Studio Munich, Sportiv Kampmann Heidelberg, and Roberto Bauer Lichtenfels. On an international level the brand is listed at the likes of Rialto Living in Palma de Majorca. In Germany, Blömeke distributes both collections herself. Swit zerland is covered by Zurich-based agency EinsZweiZweiEins, while Austria is served by Salzburg-based agency Knaus oder Knaus.
Edelle, Düsseldorf/Deutschland, T 0049.170.5447676, showroom@edwardcopper.com, www.edwardcopper.com
Wanderlust
ROA. Hiking is experiencing a huge comeback. Studies claim that 70 percent of the German population explore nature on foot regularly. The great outdoors are appealing to everyone - singles, young families, couples, and the so-called Best Agers. Roa, an Italian hiking shoe brand, caters for the needs of mountaineering enthusiasts who value func tionality, but also have a flair for aesthetics. All models of the 20-piece unisex collection boast trekking-suitable Vibram soles. In addition, the shoes are made of lightweight materials that are also used in bullet-proof vests, are particularly impact-resistant, and offer a high shear resistance. Roa is listed at stores such as Slam Jam Socialism, KM20 Moscow, Soto Berlin, and Mr Porter. Retail prices range from 250 to 425 Euros. The col lection is on display at the Pitti Uomo, as well as during the Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, and New York in the respective showrooms of Italian distributer Slam Jam. Among others, Slam Jam also represents the brands Aries, Kappa Kontroll, Napa by Martine Rose, Office, United Standard, and U.P.W.W.
Slam Jam, Ferrara/Italy, T 0039.0532.251211, info@slamjam.com, www.roa-hiking.com
Offline Premiere
BALR. When the two e-commerce experts and football fans Juul Manders and Ralph de Geus launched their leisurewear brand with Netherlands football star Demy de Zeeuw in 2013, they naturally did so in their own web shop only. The launch was orchestrated with loads of star appeal and accompanied by hype on Instagram and the like. As of the upcoming season, BALR will, for the very first time, approach selected stores in the German-speaking markets, represented by Timothy Hoferer from Modeist Men. The agency has showrooms in Munich and Düs seldorf. The brand, which is headquartered in the Netherlands, offers a comprehensive NOS programme to supplement the classic pre-or der model. BALR embodies the lifestyle of the international football jet-set. It produces relaxed, sporty leisurewear with reduced logo prints and sophisticated details. The t-shirts, hoodies, sweatpants, sneakers, and caps for women and men are only available in black and white. At a mark-up of 2.7, purchase prices range from 35 Euros for a t-shirt to 66 Euros for sneakers. Trousers cost 62 Euros.
BALR, Alkmaar/The Netherlands, T 0031.88.2257368, info@balr.com, www.balr.com
Between ReadyTo-Wear and Casualwear
GAZZARRINI. In January, Gazzarrini’s Italian menswear collection staged its big comeback after a complete re-launch at the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence. The brand was taken over by Gruppo GGM Italia in 2017. Shortly after the aforementioned trade show, Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s D-Tails agency agreed to become the label’s sales representative for the German-speak ing markets. No coincidence, as he explains: “I had been monitoring the brand for quite some time and was completely convinced by its performance at the Pitti. The look is neat and smart, but also appeals to younger customers. The quality is very high due to production facilities in Naples.” Gazzarrini is owned by a family business that operates an old leather factory within a conglomeration of suppliers in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. The close proximity to other traditional man ufactories, including a fabrics manufacturer, is why Gazzarrini can offer its customers max imum flexibility. The brand offers two main collections, two flash programmes, and - for some customers - even a Fine Pezza range (a limited edition of surplus materials with a high mark-up). Marco Ciampalini, who was appointed as Creative Director in 2010, has injected an exciting formal menswear/sports wear twist into the collection. At a mark-up of 2.7 to 2.9, purchase prices range from 55 Euros for shirts to 70 Euros for knitwear. Suits cost between 120 and 140 Euros.
Gazzarrini, Milan/Italy, T 0039.081.5109035, info@gazzarrini.com, www.gazzarrini.com
Sustainable Cup To-Go
KAFFEEFORM. During a shopping spree or on the way to work, a quick coffee on the go is automatism for many of us. In Germany alone, 320,000 disposable cups are used every hour. They have a life cycle of a mere 15 minutes. The cups cause bins to overflow and pollute parks and squares. As a rule, they are not made of recycled fibres - trees are felled to aid the production process. Given that most cups are made of plastic, crude oil is needed too. And let’s not forget that plastic lid. Kaffeeform, a Berlin-based label which has been producing cappuccino and espresso cups from recycled coffee grounds since 2012, now also offers a to-go cup that recently received the Red Dot Design Award in the “Best of the Best” category. Character istic properties of Kaffeeform’s material are the marbled, wood-like surface, the smell of coffee, the long life cycle, and the light weight. The retail price stands at 14.90 Euros. Apart from the fact that coffee tastes terrible in paper cups, the label’s aim is to fight against mountains of garbage and the waste of resources.
Kaffeeform UG, Berlin/Germany, mail@kaffeeform.com, www.kaffeeform.com
The Mastermind’s New Project
EVEN IF. The creative mastermind behind Even IF, a fresh Italian brand, is none other than renowned designer Rino Stilli. After gaining experience in high fashion and suc cess with his brand Novemb3r, Even IF is his new canvas for a clean look that is reduced to the essence of special silhouettes, qualities, and avant-garde cuts. For the spring/summer 2019 season, D-Tails has taken responsibility for sales in the German-speaking market. The agency intends to increase the num ber of customers from currently 10 to 40 in the medium term. “This is exactly the look that customers, who are struggling to find intellectually implemented and clean styles after the departure of Jil Sander and most Japanese designers, have been looking for,” Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz argues. At a mark-up of 3.0, the purchase prices for blouses range from 55 to 60 Euros. A dress costs approx. 90 Euros, while knitwear items set you back roughly 70 Euros. The two collections per year are produced exclusively in Italy - in a tradition-steeped factory near Venice to be precise.
Even IF, Venice/Italy, T 0039.0415.702609, sales@evenif.biz, www.evenif.biz
Quiet Eccentricity
LALO. In her home country of Georgia, Lalo is celebrated as a shooting star among local designers. Her creations are feminine and extravagant. Her colourful and daring designs electrify at first glance. The cuts are avant-garde, yet still very wearable - a fasci nating quiet eccentricity. Lalo has a passion for special hand-knitting and manufacturing techniques for coats and jackets, preferably in combination with transparent dresses in bright colours, with batik patterns, or de gradé sequins. An exuberant adornment with high-quality deco elements such as feathers, embroidery, and glam buttons lends the glowing pieces trendy opulence. Lalo cele brates the glamour of the pleasure-seeking Roaring Twenties, a style defining era charac terised by excess, enjoyment, and emancipation that propagated the image of strong women. The designer injects the ideals of the time, as well as today’s female independence and individuality, into her collection. Her bold and artistic design language internalises the image of a modern, self-confident woman who enjoys attracting attention with extrava gant accents.
Lalo Cardigans, Tbilisi/Georgia, T 0099.5.579725511, info@lalocardigans.com, www.lalocardigans.com
From Woman to Woman
TANJA HELLMUTH STUDIOS. “Limit everything to the essential, but do not re move the poetry.” Tanja Hellmuth chose this credo of the Japanese Wabi-Sabi doctrine as the guiding principle for her new label. “It is a collection created by a woman for women,” Hellmuth explains. She was responsible for the design department of St. Emile for 18 years. Today, she consults the brand Hessnatur as a CCO in addition to running her own label. Her collection certainly reflects an artistic approach. After all, Hellmuth, who is an award-winning artist, has a diploma in painting, sculpturing, drawing, and design. She focuses on all-season dresses such as brightly coloured silk twill dresses with exclu sive prints that can be casually or elegantly enhanced with accessories, uni-coloured shaping jersey dresses, and luxurious sweaters. Purchase prices for the designer dresses, which are manufactured in Hungary and Italy, range from 143 to 286 Euros. Retail prices range from 399 to 799 Euros. Hellmuth has enjoyed success from the outset. The customer list already includes renowned retailers such as Bungalow Stuttgart and Mike Shay Sylt.
