One For All

…and all for Club Homeboy. Jürgen Wolf has pulled off quite a coup. He managed to gather the “who-is-who” of the right retailers around a table and conceived a collection that bundles the experience and expertise of all participants in a joint concept. From an economical point of view, no other (private) label can compete with this approach.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photo: Club Homeboy

Jürgen Wolf has already done pretty much everything one can do. He started his career in sales, practically founded the Homeboy brand on a return flight from Los Angeles to Frankfurt, acquired the largest action sport publisher in 1998, and lost just about everything overnight due to a failed IPO. He used the unexpected break for activities outside the industry and was therefore able to look at the street wear market from the outside through the eyes of an insider. It was an exciting change of perspective which showed him that there is a large target group of men around 40, who grew up with skate and street wear in the 1990s, but have now literally outgrown that particular fashion segment. Jürgen Wolf could write many books about the cultural roots of skate and street wear; it is also the story of his own youth. In 2013, the idea of re-launching Homeboy as a grown-up brand for a new customer type seemed pretty obvious. “I believed that the gap between street wear and menswear was simply too big and the more I considered the topic, the more I saw the demand in the market.”Thus, the idea for Club Homeboy was born. “I wanted to sit down with a handful of multi-brand retailers and design a collection together; a collection that gives all parties what they need. I already knew all the partners I wanted, so I casually called them and invited them to meet up. Among those present were - among others - Reischmann, Yeanshalle, and Wöhrl. We exchanged opinions and I presented my thoughts on the market and the target audience.” After three hours it became very clear that we all had the same problem and that the idea was excellent.

10 PERCENT CLUB FEE

There are six collections per year. During the first meeting, Jürgen Wolf presents his collection idea for the next six months, but he only showcases the top range items to be discussed. Then he and his team analyse the feedback and incorporate the commercial element. “The ultimate result is a sample collection that has been developed and sharpened together. It is subsequently delivered eight weeks later, which means that the order is very close to the delivery date. The implementation of fashionable rush jobs is part of the concept. I pass on all items to the club members for the production price. This means we can launch products with an incredible margin that is higher than that of any other private label. As a reward, I take 10 percent of the retail price as a club fee, which includes the costs for design, production, and marketing.” At the end of this year, Club Homeboy will face its baptism of fire when it has to prove itself in the retailing world for the very first time.

“WHEN WE AGREE WITHIN THE CLUB TO ALL REDUCE THE PRICE OF INDIVIDUAL PRODUCTS ON THE SAME DAY AND NOBODY ATTEMPTS A SOLO EFFORT, THEN THAT IS ONE OF THE MANY BENEFITS THAT CLUB HOMEBOY CAN OFFER THE RETAIL INDUSTRY.” – JÜRGEN WOLF

& (Always) Here

Made in a place far, far away? Today’s consumers find such a label increasingly un-chic, especially in the high-end segment. However, there are even better arguments in favour of producing on your own doorstep. Speed is just one of those arguments. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

When sausage manufacturers start offering vegetarian products, one may be forgiven for thinking that the world has gone completely mad. Or maybe that’s a completely sane development? The food industry has, after all, proven that it‘s possible to change consumer behaviour. Organic foods have gradually become everyday products and purchasing locally produced food has become just as important as the fair trade seal on our coffee, bananas, and chocolate. Slowly but surely, the fashion industry is following suit. The grievances of the textile industry - for instance in Cambodia, Bangladesh, and Turkey - have made more and more consumers question their own purchasing patterns. They now afford themselves the luxury of buying textiles and shoes more consciously by scrutinising the production conditions of the products. Dominik Meuer’s Die Hinterhofagentur represents brands such as Cape Horn and Breco’s from Italy, as well as Des Petits Hauts from France. All the aforementioned brands produce in their respective home countries or within the EU almost exclusively. Meuer explains: “The customers have certain expectations when they see ‘Made in Italy’ or ‘Made in France’. In the high-priced sportswear segment, it is now almost a prerequisite in order to justify a corresponding price level and to gain a head start over Asian products with sophisticated finishing, exclusive quantities, and high-end qualities. Producing in Europe ultimately means that one is willing to invest in the product, not in transport costs. People have started basing purchasing decisions on their conscience. Clothing produced in the EU guarantees that no toxins have been used and that all social and safety standards have been met.”

Fair Rules “Fairness is an essential part of the sport”, the website of the German Football Association states. This is a motto that can be transferred easily to the business

practices of many family-owned businesses in the textile industry, of which many have survived decades without eye-catching certifications and seals. Often the mindset of the entrepreneurs is more important than a compliance certificate. A prime example is the Swiss brand Artigiano, which has

“The customers have certain expectations when they see ‘Made in Italy’ or ‘Made in France’.” - Dominik Meuer, Die Hinterhofagentur

manufactured shirts and blouses - some of them custom-made - in its own production plant in Ticino and in North Portugal since the 1970s. In September 2014, the brand opened a new production site with twelve employees, again in the Swiss province Ticino. The tailor studio is equipped with the most up-todate machinery and is a mere two and a half hour drive away from the company’s headquarters in Neerach. This means Artigiano can react to trends swifter and can optimise its logistics capacities and costs. “Customers can re-order several times during the season”, explains Aline Aeberhard, the project manager. In the Swiss production plant, shirts are manufactured on location, from the cutting process to the laying table. This means that every shirt boasts the “Made in Switzerland”, and justifiably so. The silk fabrics for the women’s blouses is, for instance, sourced in Italy and dyed on the shores of Lake Como. “Short distances to the suppliers allow faster and more flexible action, which translates into better service levels for our customers. It is now also completely unproblematic to manufacture smaller quantities and limited editions”, Aeberhard says. The shirts and blouses from Switzerland are subsequently exported to no less than 18 countries. “It is becoming increasingly important for customers to know what materials are used for a product and who manufactures it. We have made the conscious decision to utilise Swiss manufacturing capacities. This also has a marketing aspect and strengthens the brand itself. First and foremost, however, we strive to fulfil our responsibilities. A shirt from Switzerland ensures that it wasn’t manufactured under questionable circumstances. The production costs alone are not decisive in our market segment. The price must remain competitive, the fabric quality needs to be higher, and the product must be finer and more sophisticated. A mere guarantee of origin from Switzerland simply isn’t enough.”

Address the Right Target Group Men are especially enthusiastic about durable, high-quality products “Made in Germany”. This plays into the hands of Albstadt-based Mey, which launched its Mey Story brand this summer. The renowned underwear manufacturer managed to place the ten-piece collection at leading menswear stores. All Mey Story products are hand-crafted exclusively in Germany from the finest hand-picked Peruvian Pima Cotton. The innovation is that the line represents a completely own brand world, which is separated from the classic underwear collections and is only available at upscale retailers and selected concept stores. In Germany and Austria, Mey Story is

“It is our aim to manufacture the finest white t-shirt possible.” - Michael Prues, head of business development at Mey Story

represented by Heritage Agents, while the Swiss market is covered by The Wearhouse. The products hit the shelves for the first time in mid-September. They were launched with a bang too - in renowned stores such as Andreas Murkudis, Lodenfrey, Schnitzler, Engelhorn, Volls, Sagmeister, Kastner & Öhler, and Neumann. The retail prices for t-shirts - available with v-necks and crew necks - start at 59.90 Euros, while the prices for undershirts and shorts start at 39.90 Euros. Michael Prues, head of business development at Mey Story, explains: “It is our aim to manufacture the finest white t-shirt possible. It is a product without a half-life in terms of fashion and of top quality. The specially developed fit is the result of our German production site’s many years of experience. They place great emphasis on the highest ecological standards, from the fibre to the finished

“It is becoming increasingly important for customers to know what materials are used for a product and who manufactures it.” - Aline Aeberhard, Artigiano

item. Mey Story is aimed at a very demanding target group that sees sustainability, environmentally friendly production, and traditional handicraft as vital priorities. The feedback from the retailers proves that the wearing experience and price/performance ratio are perceived as absolutely unique. In addition, we are talking about products that we have in stock. This means that we can re-stock retailers at any time.”

Quality Does Not Equal High Prices Quality has its price. However, Espadrij l’originale has proven that products of a better quality can still come at an affordable price for consumers. In 2009, Felix Staeudinger, the owner of the agency Panorama Europe, started producing classic canvas espadrilles featuring jute soles coated with natural rubber. “Producing shoes with a significantly longer lifetime is an important step towards sustainability. I was eager to prove that it is possible to produce in Europe and still offer shoes at a commercially viable price to ensure that a lot of people can actually afford our shoes”, Staeudinger explains. The fabrics are woven in Spain. The Mediterranean slippers are sewn by hand in the traditional way in a small village in the French Pyrenees. A pair costs 29.95 Euros. The shoes are particularly popular among the 30 to 40 year olds, for whom the shoes often bring back childhood memories they connect with Mediterranean vacations. “Our ‘Made in France’ label plays a major role. We want to strengthen the EU as a production location. Our production partner accommodated us at the start, mainly to ensure that we can remain competitive during the market entry despite low volumes. Today, we are still paying the same price as six years ago despite much higher volumes. Live and let live is the motto of the day in this respect.” The small factory currently has ten employees. Due to the global expansion of Espadrij l’originale, the brand is in the process of building a new production hall. Today, consumers can choose between Chukka boots for men and various models with wedges for women. The latter are made of either canvas or suede with retail prices up to 79.90 Euros. The brand produces all year round; the warehouse in Düsseldorf stocks all colours and

“I was eager to prove that it is possible to produce in Europe and still offer shoes at a commercially viable price.” - Felix Staeudinger, Espadrij l’originale and Panorama Europe

sizes at all times. Current export markets include Australia, China, Japan, and the United Arab Emirates. The next step is both smart and logical: soon children will be able to enjoy the benefits of running around in sustainably produced espadrilles.