God Save the Sneaker

New Balance. God Save the Sneaker

The US sports equipment specialist, has been producing running shoes in the English Northwest since the early 1980s. Today, the factory in Flimby predominantly produces premium sneakers for the brand’s Lifestyle Collection. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: New Balance

“Made in Flimby” is a code that means something to sneaker collectors around the world. In the past, the British origin was revealed by a discreet “Made in UK” on the inside of the shoe’s tongue. However, New Balance now communicates the fact that it produces its sneakers in the EU more aggressively. Be it the Union Jack or an embroidered “Made in England”, the brand is clearly proud of its 6,000 square metre production plant in England’s rather rough North-West. After all, England is synonymous for quality that distinguishes the company from its competition. The shoes from Flimby are perceived as extremely durable and comfortable. On top of all that, the production conditions in line with European norms means that a clear conscience is included in the price. New Balance has never obscured the fact that the price for its British sneakers is higher than the ones produced in China.

Heritage All Lifestyle Collection shoes are based on running shoes that were produced in Flimby in the past. Today, however, New Balance utilises high-quality leather and suede, sometimes in combination with classic mesh or nylon inserts, as well as high-end Harris Tweed. The decision whether a shoe model is produced in Asia or England depends on the value of the materials and the time intensity of the production process. Chris Hodgson, the senior footwear developer who has been with the company for more than 30 years, explains: “The higher the value of the materials is the more sense it makes to manufacture the shoes

The Real Ale Pack is the current “Made in UK” Premium Edition of New Balance and is based on British beer and pub culture.

Passionate - sneakers from Flimby are hand-made with exquisite craftsmanship.

here in this factory. We produce our high-performance running shoes in Asia; they require a lot more time to manufacture. It is also easier to manufacture lifestyle sneakers with a high percentage of synthetic materials in Asia. Here we focus increasingly on high-end classics made of high-quality leather sourced preferably in Europe, but also imported from the US or Asia.” The price for shoes produced in Asia ranges from 70 to 130 Euros, while models produced in the UK cost between 130 and 180 Euros. In Europe, shoes manufactured in the US set you back between 160 and 190 Euros. And the prices are rising…

The Subtle Difference The English factory is New Balance’s only production plant in Europe. Working here almost seems idyllic. When you glance out of the window, you can gaze at sheep and cattle pastures and two windmills against the backdrop of the open sea. If the weather is good, you can even spot the coast of Scotland and the Isle of Man. “Our 270 employees work 39 hours a week from Monday to Thursday. We currently produce slightly more than 420,000 pairs of shoes per year; next year we are hoping to produce 450,000 pairs”, says Andy Okolowicz, who has been a factory manager at New Balance for 19 years. New Balance operates five other plants in the US, where the brand produces both classics and modern running shoes. Production capacities of this magnitude in high-wage countries set New Balance apart from its competitors quite substantially. Moreover, the production plants in Europe and the US are profitable. The family business employs approximately 4,000 people worldwide and generated roughly 3.5 billion Euros last year. And the company is growing…

www.newbalance.co.uk

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Weber+Weber Raw Sophistication

“This is a completely slick collection from Austria with a really earthy and masculine statement. It mainly uses Austrian fabrics and is produced exclusively in Pisa. It utilises the best of all worlds”, says Patrick Coppolecchia Re inartz, the managing director of Munich-based fashion agency D-tails, about Weber + Weber, a brand that he started representing for the autumn/winter 2015 season. Manuel and Christian Weber, the brand’s designers, have effortlessly translated Austrian heritage into a cool, reduced, and urban menswear collection with an uncomplicated twist. The brand’s best sellers include sprayed shirts, lined parkas, and casual vests, as well as Lederhosen made of hemp, which are available in up to four colours. In accordance with the high-quality fabrics and the elaborate processing, the purchase price for the latter stands at 120 Euros. Jackets cost 180 Euros, while the purchase prices for polo shirts range from 40 to 50 Euros. D-tails represents the collection in Germany, Austria, and Switzer land and has already won over customers like Lodenfrey in Munich, Sagmeister in Bregenz, and Einwaller in Innsbruck. Weber+Weber, Grutis/Austria, T 0043.5522.20340, info@weberweber.it, www.weberweber.it

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Let’s Go Basic Keep it Simple

Classic gym wear reduced to its essence - in this simple equation one can find all the sophistication within the collection of Let’s Go Basic. Small details characterise the recognition of the young sportswear brand. The label keeps its promises: casual, sporty basics made of jersey and knitted ma terials supplied by Italian and Japanese sources. The collection for men and women was launched in 2014 and now offers a collection for spring/summer and autumn/winter. The latter is mainly defined by materials and qualities with more warming properties. In addition to the urban, sporty Basis Line, the label also offers a Conceptual Line that picks up fashionable trends. Supported by the Munich-based fashion agency Komet & Helden in the German-speak ing markets, the brand has managed to win over customers such as Liebling steil, Ehlers, Simonsen by Simonsen, and Strolz in Austria. Sales highlights of the last summer season were mainly short and long jogging pants, sweat shirts, and t-shirts. The retail prices range from 50 to 64 Euros for sweat ers and 50 to 60 Euros for pants. The calculation factor stands at 2.8. C.P.A. Srl, Cona Ve/Italy, T 0039.0426.302189, ufficiocommerciale@cpasrl.com, www.letsgobasic.com

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03.

Black Mountain Clothing Company No Compromises

Matt Francis and Don Ernens founded Black Mountain Clothing Company during a business trip to Sydney. At the time, both had already worked for American, European, and Australian lifestyle labels and therefore had plenty of expe rience in building brands. Over a dinner and a few beers, they developed a business plan and a modern outerwear collection with products for men. “We do not compromise. Ultimate quality and outstanding performance are our maxims. We focus on classic models in clean, contem porary designs and superb materials, in order to win over the best customers the market has to offer”, Don Ernens explains. All jackets are cut using laser technology and boast taped seams. The materials are sourced from the best Italian and Japanese weaving mills and are manu factured in Portugal. The retail prices for the jackets range from 350 to 700 Euros. The first summer collection consists of seven models in two to three colours, including a hunting jacket, a bomber jacket, and a deck jacket. The brand also offers a few t-shirts, trousers, and shorts. Black Mountain Clothing Company BV, Amsterdam/The Netherlands, T 0032.474191020, info@blackmountainclothingcompany.com, www.blackmountainclothingcompany.com

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Human Scales Second Skin

In 2007, the two Swedes Mikko Kärmäräinen and Peter Ferber founded the menswear brand Human Scales. “We rely on transparency in terms of manufacturing processes and materi als. For us it is very important that our customers know how our products are manufactured, which is why we have uploaded a number of videos about the manufacturing process to our homepage”, Ferber explains. Human Scales stands for a casual, masculine look for men from 25 years of age onwards. The collection consists of roughly 220 pieces. The retail prices for shirts range from 100 to 165 Euros, while blazers, jackets, and coats cost between 220 and 550 Euros. The retail prices for trousers range from 110 to 220 Euros, while jerseys set you back between 55 and 155 Euros. The cal culation factor stands at 2.8. The leather jackets and leather shoes are offered at a calculation factor of 2.5. Human Scales is already listed at more than 80 retailers in Sweden, Norway, Finland, Denmark, England, Ireland, and Spain. The most important key accounts to date are Peggs and Son, Stuk in Gothenburg, and My o my in Helsinki. In Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, Human Scales is marketed by the Berlin-based agency Anotherproject. GSL AG, Stockholm/Sweden, T 0047.70.7751278, hi@humanscales.se, www.humanscales.se

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05.

Gabba Dedicated to Denim

Rough looks, rough boys, and even tougher denim - the Danish Gabba label offers a typically Scandinavian ur ban collection. The label has been run by designer Ole Madsen since 1983. In Germany, Gabba is in its fourth season and supplies approximately 100 cus tomers. Gabba develops two complete collections per year. The main focus is on denim and non-denim pants with elaborate washings. The product range also includes coarse and fine knitwear, leather jackets, shirts, sweaters, shirts, and belts. Tokyo’s trendy Shibuya dis trict acts as the inspiration for the looks of summer 2016: asymmetric shirts and cardigans, shirts based on vintage work wear, rustic denims, and Twill pants. Gabba’s purchase prices start at 20 Euros for shirts, while a leather jacket costs approximately 140 Euros. The purchasing prices for denim products start at 43 Euros and can reach 71 Euros for more elaborate finishes. To date, Gabba is stocked by customers such as Daniels Cologne, Zeitzeichen Würzburg, Crämer & Co Nuremberg, Geschwisterliebe Stuttgart, and District One/Steffl Vienna. Gabba, Kolding/Denmark, T 0045.28265051, nicolaj@yycc.dk

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06.

Hancock Let it Rain

There is no bad weather, only the wrong clothes - this motto also applies to the rainproof rain jackets à la Mackintosh. Thomas Hancock is the real inventor of the water-resistant all-rounder from Scotland. In 2012, Daniel Dunko, a former director of Mackintosh Ltd., teamed up with his brand manager, Gary Bott, to found his own brand named Hancock. The experienced duo established itself on the inter national market swiftly, struck up a partnership United Arrow, and secured numerous additional creative co-operations. Today, Hancock utilises a Scotland-based production site to produce a 50-piece, high-quality jacket collection for men and women. The collection is masterminded by designer Colin Oliphant. Other products, such as luggage and accessories, are in the planning stages. Hancock’s purchase prices start at approximately 235 Euros; the calculation factor ranges from 2.8 to 3.0. The complex manufac turing process is documented in every jacket. The beautiful, simple design has already won over many top retailers. Hancock is stocked by the likes of Andreas Murkudis in Berlin, Diehl & Diehl in Frankfurt, Eder in Kitzbühel, L’Eclaireur in Paris, Bloomingdales and Barneys in New York, and Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam. Thomas Hancock & Co, London/Great Britain, T 0044.207.6367058, info@index-london.com, www.hancockva.com

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07.

The Suitcase Once Around the World

The designer Agnes Kemeny has travelled extensively and has worked for the likes of Ver sace, Etro, Dondup, and Nigel Cabourn. Now she has decided to change her life completely. She moved from the city into the Italian coun tryside, where she has designed a 15-piece collection that fits into a suitcase. Accordingly, she named her label The Suitcase. Own less while living life with good products and travelling more, that is her motto. She utilises special ma terials, thereby creating durable items that can be worn both in autumn and spring. A life in line trends is her commitment to a robust wardrobe. The blouses, dresses, and shirt jackets in her collection are made of rougher Italian fabrics for men; they can be washed and ironed easily, are robust companions for everyday urban and rural environments, and are available at retailers for between 300 and 700 Euros. During the pro duction process in Italy, she is eager to involve the employees in the weaving mills and seam stresses in her own work. The first customers included stores such as VMC in Zurich, Faoro in St. Moritz, Walburgis in Lausanne, John Tweed in Zurich, and Jeanslive in Winterthur. Agnes Kemeny, Fossombrone/Italy, T 0039.1833.9257, info@thesuitcaseclothing.com, www.thesuitcaseclothing.com

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Philomena Zanetti Sustainable and Urban

Julia Leifert named her label, Philomena Zanetti, after her great-great-grandmother from South Tyrol. It was founded in Berlin three seasons ago. She showcased her products at the Premium trade show as early as last summer. What makes Philomena Zanetti so special is that her first two collections attracted a lot of attention from numerous blogs and online mag azines such as LesMads, Journelles, Stylemag, and Berliner Morgenpost. The reason is that Julia Leifert has been living a vegan lifestyle for many years and takes great pride in producing her products in an environmentally friendly and fair manner. Furthermore, she largely refrains from using leather and other animal-based materials. Her collection consists of a mere 10 pieces, including a dress and a skirt made of Cupro or, alternatively, of GOTS-certi fied organic cotton, as well as a trouser model, a blouse, and a pullover. All items are designed to the point in terms of fashion and can be worn simulta neously. With a calculation factor of 2.5, the retail prices range from 200 Euros for a blouse to 1,100 Euros for a Loden coat. The latter is manufactured in Austria. The current autumn/winter collection is available ex stock. Julia Leifert, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.176.60001764, info@philomenazanetti.com, www.philomenazanetti.com 09.

Lolli Queen Soft and the City

“We actually met by chance on the street”, says Katrin Conrads while describing the birth of her collaboration with Brazilian-born Rosangela da Silva. At the time, she was, for medical reasons, wearing a pair of flip-flops to an elegant dress by Patrizia Pepe. This look was very well-received and the snapshot led to the foundation of the Lolli Queen brand. Flip-flops are a dime a dozen, which means that they had to differentiate right from the start. The recipe for success involves an extreme ly comfortable, soft foot bed made of 100% natural rubber with no toxic additives and a thong made of PVC that is softened by body heat. The flip-flops, characterised by a distinc tive design with a lot of bling and fashionable extras, are handcrafted in Brazil. “It feels like walking on clouds”, says Marion Hofer, the owner of the fashion agency that will represent the brand from summer 2016 onwards. She is absolutely enchanted by Lolli Queen. The purchase prices range from 21 to 25 Euros. Lolli Queen is already listed at fashion retailers such as Oberpollinger, Alsterhaus, and KaDeWe. Lolli Queen GmbH, Cologne/Germany, T 0049.151.40150196, T 0049.178.4734787, info@lolliqueen.de, www.lolliqueen.de

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Gvyn Between High Street and High End

Ulrike Seeber set out to fill the gap mentioned in the headline with a high-end - but none theless affordable - collection of bags and accessories. In 2014, she launched her Gvyn label at the London Fashion Week and instantly convinced image stores such as Harvey Nich ols, Shoppyramid Cambridge, Lala Berlin, and Ludwig Beck. Gvyn is notably the label’s muse: a fictional girl in her twenties, who is feminine, cool, and non-conformist. She acts as the sty listic role model for the collection. The leather used for manufacturing comes exclusively from Italy, where it is handled as little as possible to retain its natural structure and glossy surface. The products are manufactured in a high-end production facility near Krakow. With retail prices ranging from 299 to 499 Euros, the clean, purist designs position themselves in the entry price range of the upscale segment. The collection also convinced Marion Hoferer, the managing director of the ModeIst fashion agency in Munich. She added Gvyn to her port folio for autumn/winter 2015. “Gvyn is a great, concentrated programme from London with 10 models in six colours”, the agency owner explains. The collection can be ordered in her showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. Gvyn, London/UK, T 0044.7447.084447, ulrike@gvyn.com, www.gvyn.com

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Bruno Parise Italia Closely Intertwined

Bruno Parise is an Italian entrepreneur who is defined by his own beautiful story. He is a native Italian, which means he comes from a culture in which traditional crafts - in this case the handicraft of straw weaving - still play a central role. This cultural legacy has shaped his individual creative work. The hallmarks of Italian handicraft, namely the pursuit of excellence and the weaving’s high recognition value, are deeply embedded in Bruno Parise’s high-quality accessories collection, which was launched in 2010. Quite literally, because his bags are woven from exclusive soft leather obtained from a source near Venice. The bags are manufactured on Venetian looms from the 18th century. Today, only very few people have the skills necessary to operate such looms. In 2011, Ales sandra Parise, his daughter, joined the company as a communications expert to handle the fast growing company’s marketing measures. In the summer season of 2015, the brand presented its first shoe collection. It also plans to introduce an accessories collec tion for men for summer 2016. Every item of said collection will be named after famous actors such as Dustin Hoffman, Richard Gere, and Leonardo di Caprio. Today, Bruno Parise Italia is represented in the top segment of the Swiss, Russian, and Japanese markets. In Germany, the brand is represented by D-tails, the Munich-based fashion agency owned by Patrick Coppolec chia-Reinartz. The retail prices for the bags range from 600 to 900 Euros. Bruno Parise, Marostica/Italy, T 0039.393.9703675, info@brunopariseitalia.com, www.brunopariseitalia.com 12.

My Cosy Couture To The Point

Marion Hoferer, the owner of Munich-based fashion agency ModeIst, strives to offer the right items at the right time. The brand My Cosy Couture allows her to utilise an extensive stock programme, which enables her custom ers to re-order at any time. She will represent My Cosy Couture from the upcoming season onwards. The designs of the colourful woollen shawls and ponchos are created in Hamburg, while the items themselves are produced in Greece. The handwriting of Lisa Weinhold, the designer at My Cosy Couture, is characterised by charismatic paisley patterns and current colour trends. She places them subtly on large, square cashmere shawls made of a merino/ cashmere/polyamide blend and ponchos with fringes (purchase price: 58 Euros; recommend ed retail price: 159 Euros), on poncho capes and pullovers (purchase price: 48 Euros), and extra long shawls and ponchos (purchase price: 58 Euros). “The great benefit for retailers in the case of My Cosy Couture is that every item comes straight from stock. This means that everyone can order small batches and re-order a lot! In addition, the supplier shoulders most of the risk. This is a really great partnership”, Marion Hoferer adds. New trends can be implemented on a monthly basis and the brand will also offer t-shirts with special prints from January 2016 onwards. My Cosy Couture, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.174.1734732, info@mycosycouture.com, www.mycosycouture.com

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