style in progress 4/2015 – English Edition

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WHAT'S THE STORY 077 RETHINK

New Balance. God Save the Sneaker The US sports equipment specialist, has been producing running shoes in the English Northwest since the early 1980s. Today, the factory in Flimby predominantly produces premium sneakers for the brand’s Lifestyle Collection. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: New Balance

“Made in Flimby” is a code that means something to sneaker collectors around the world. In the past, the British origin was revealed by a discreet “Made in UK” on the inside of the shoe’s tongue. However, New Balance now communicates the fact that it produces its sneakers in the EU more aggressively. Be it the Union Jack or an embroidered “Made in England”, the brand is clearly proud of its 6,000 square metre production plant in England’s rather rough North-West. After all, England is synonymous for quality that distinguishes the company from its competition. The shoes from Flimby are perceived as extremely durable and comfortable. On top of all that, the production conditions in line with European norms means that a clear conscience is included in the price. New Balance has never obscured the fact that the price for its British sneakers is higher than the ones produced in China.

The Real Ale Pack is the current “Made in UK” Premium Edition of New Balance and is based on British beer and pub culture.

Heritage

All Lifestyle Collection shoes are based on running shoes that were produced in Flimby in the past. Today, however, New Balance utilises high-quality leather and suede, sometimes in combination with classic mesh or nylon inserts, as well as high-end Harris Tweed. The decision whether a shoe model is produced in Asia or England depends on the value of the materials and the time intensity of the production process. Chris Hodgson, the senior footwear developer who has been with the company for more than 30 years, explains: “The higher the value of the materials is the more sense it makes to manufacture the shoes

Passionate - sneakers from Flimby are hand-made with exquisite craftsmanship.

here in this factory. We produce our high-performance running shoes in Asia; they require a lot more time to manufacture. It is also easier to manufacture lifestyle sneakers with a high percentage of synthetic materials in Asia. Here we focus increasingly on high-end classics made of high-quality leather sourced preferably in Europe, but also imported from the US or Asia.” The price for shoes produced in Asia ranges from 70 to 130 Euros, while models produced

in the UK cost between 130 and 180 Euros. In Europe, shoes manufactured in the US set you back between 160 and 190 Euros. And the prices are rising… The Subtle Difference

The English factory is New Balance’s only production plant in Europe. Working here almost seems idyllic. When you glance out of the window, you can gaze at sheep and cattle pastures and two windmills against the backdrop of the open sea. If

the weather is good, you can even spot the coast of Scotland and the Isle of Man. “Our 270 employees work 39 hours a week from Monday to Thursday. We currently produce slightly more than 420,000 pairs of shoes per year; next year we are hoping to produce 450,000 pairs”, says Andy Okolowicz, who has been a factory manager at New Balance for 19 years. New Balance operates five other plants in the US, where the brand produces both classics and modern running shoes. Production capacities of this magnitude in high-wage countries set New Balance apart from its competitors quite substantially. Moreover, the production plants in Europe and the US are profitable. The family business employs approximately 4,000 people worldwide and generated roughly 3.5 billion Euros last year. And the company is growing… www.newbalance.co.uk

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