What do a visit to a restaurant in Vienna and a fashion magazine have in common? A lot, as Stephan Huber’s longview with Ann Berry and Anna Graf shows (Senses Unleashed, from page 102). The three of them discuss options for the future of retail and repeatedly arrive at a term with which we adorn ourselves a little: omnisensoric. It was coined by Ann Berry in an interview in the last issue - and this term has also shaped our work on this issue. Because fashion is a champion when it comes to appealing to all the senses, we are dedicating the focus of this issue to this aspect. We have found examples of consumption that inspires all the senses all over the world. Whether Isabel Faiss’ journey through opening highlights in global retail (X-tended Reality, from page 178) or Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek’s declaration of love for Milan (Per un Amore Nuovo, from page 192). A city that has developed considerably beyond the obvious, (elective) Milanesi from our industry take us into backyards, galleries, or pilgrimage sites of the fashion trade.
Nicoletta Schaper and Martina Müllner, on the other hand, work out the quiet signs of major changes in womenswear and menswear. The conclusion: nothing here is blatant, on the contrary. Consumers who have grown up are quietly using their credit cards to vote. They opt for fashion that gives them the feeling of investing in eternity. Longevity is the magic word, also in fashion. Is that boring? Absolutely not, it is perhaps the most exciting thing we are currently experiencing: a new sense of reality that is also inspiring industry and retail. We are entering the new season with a down-to-earth attitude instead of superlatives. Partnerships, eye level, respect - these are words that our entire editorial team has heard again and again in the preparation of this style in progress issue. Breathing life into these terms is perhaps the even more exciting task facing our industry. We wish you every success and, as always, hope you enjoy reading this issue!
Your style in progress team
Alexander Wells, a digital artist and illustrator living in the windy coastal town of Brighton, England, masterfully blends traditional and digital mediums to craft vibrant, dramatic illustrations.
Drawing inspiration from his love for science fiction, iconic movie soundtracks, anime, computer games, and pop culture, Alexander’s bold and dynamic style captivates diverse audiences. His work, spanning from sports publications to editorial features, is celebrated for its well-observed portraits, conceptual futuristic themes, energetic sports depictions, and striking editorial illustrations. Alex is a coffee addict and a cinephile with a very interesting top 3 list: Spirited Away. The Darjeeling Limited. Gattaca.
His clients include Apple, Sony, Rolling Stone, The New York Times, Glenfiddich Whiskey, The Guardian, Wired, BBC and The Washington Post.
www.wellsillustration.com @lexanderwells
Cover
Artwork: Alexander Wells
006 EDITORIAL With All Senses
FASHION
Noir ‘n’ Bleu: Pursuit of Perfection
Windsor: “We Dress Strong Women”
Bloom: More Sophisticated
Caractère: Masterpieces
Nineto9: Fluid
People of Shibuya: Back to the Roots
Bugatti: Creating an Identity
Sportalm/Ulli Ehrlich: New Styles
Keeling: The Mangrove Collection
Ragman: Basic Was Yesterday
LONGVIEW
102 Senses Unleashed
Ann Berry and Anna Graf discuss the future of omnisensoric retail
WHAT’S THE STORY
126
“My Fashion Expresses Freedom” – Sophie d’Hoore on womenswear that outlives trends.
124 New Power
130 Confidence! Nicoletta Schaper explores a new understanding of female fashion.
138 “We Show What Excites Us”: Hüsken Studio transposes a womenswear store into the here and now.
140 Dance of the Molecules – how Escentric Molecules has been defining niche fragrances for 20 years.
142 “I Love Science,” says Poland’s model entrepreneur Joanna Ryglewicz, founder of clean beauty brand Oio Lab.
150 Responsible Everyday Care: How Ecoalf is conquering the wellness segment.
158 Unique Adventures: Niù invites women to join them.
164 Female Power: Celebrated by new jersey brand Zwei Studio.
Photo: Sportalm/Ulli Ehrlich
166 The Future is Omnisensoric
168 “Virtual? Real? Who Cares?” Digital fashion designer Stephy Fung and tech and future expert Anne-Liese Prem in conversation.
174 Art Space for Illusions –Ikono/Vienna.
176 30 Years Omnisensoric. Avant Toi celebrates an anniversary.
212 Growin’ up
178 X-Tended Reality
Retail concepts from around the world.
188 Less Is More: JNBY rolls out its retail concept across Europe.
190 “Relationships Do Not Thrive in 17-Page Contracts” –AlphaTauri and Schnitzler define partnership.
192 Per Un Amore Nuovo
Milan through the eyes of Milanesi from the fashion industry.
214 You Fall or You Grow –Drykorn mastermind Marco Götz and artist MadC on living and growing with target groups.
222 “We Have Ambitious Plans,” says Reinhard Haase about True Religion’s European license.
228 “Retailers Provide Proof” –Why D2C-born brand Reternity relies on the authenticity of retailers.
230 Elegant Simplicity: Scandinavian Edition places new focus on its men’s and women’s collections.
232 (Out)Growing Children’s Shoes – the coming of age of shoe conglomerate Falc, formerly known as Falcotto.
224 Setting Sail: Basic Net Vice President Lorenzo Boglione on his sporting plans with K-Way.
234 It’s a Choice
236 “Fashion Risks Becoming As Unpopular As Cigarettes,” warns Scandinavian Mind’s Konrad Olsson.
239 “Everything but Touch” is the motto of digitisation specialist Swatchbook.
240 All In: The polar opposite of outsourcing: insourcing!
248 Same, Yet So Very Different: How menswear focuses on style instead of trends.
254 “We Are Not Here to Flood the Market,” the creators of NN07 explain.
257 Joint Effort: Union in Berlin is a menswear hotspot.
260 Lace Up: New silhouettes, new shoes?
IN STORE
274 House of Auster/Vienna Community Is the New Frequency
276 Nugnes/Trani “We See Fashion Retail as Art”
277 Santagatha/Noto A Place of Pilgrimage
278 Galanterie/Wiener Neustadt “We Are Wabi-Sabi-Danish”
280 Galerie Wasser/Cologne Scope
280 EDITOR’S LETTER Touch Me!
280 ABOUT US
Photo: AlphaTauri
IGHT NOW r
CG-Club of Gents
Natural Lightness
Division Head Ralf Klute has perfectly captured his desire for lightness for spring/summer 2025. This season’s must-haves are wide-fitting pants combined with overshirts made of super-light jersey. Linen-look jersey suits in natural tones are presented with knitted T-shirts. He sees the suit trends in double-breasted jackets and straight cuts. Your Own Party by CG is vintage boho style meeting luxury wedding. The suits in flowing silhouettes, combined with jacquard vests and matching ties. Savile Row by CG, inspired by Peaky Blinders, focuses on double-breasted suits with wide lapels and collarless blazers. www.cg.fashion
Mainetti Italia Cool as Denim
Mainetti Italia, world leader in the production of hangers, paper packaging, flexible fabric solutions and branding, presents its sustainable innovation: the line is called 85 and is created through the circular Blue Dust process. Disposed-of jeans and production waste are ground into a powder, which can then be used to print anything using a screen-printing process: boxes, shopping bags, labels, tags and much more. The texture and blue shade of the material make 85 so special.
Stetson
Shared Vision
With the store in the heart of Lisbon, Stetson Europe not only opened its sixth store in Europe, but also expanded its collaboration with an industry expert: the store manager is Rita Rua, whose great-grandfather opened the first hat store in Portugal - so she is deeply influenced by this profession. Most recently, she represented Stetson as an agent in Portugal for several years. This makes it all the more logical to continue the joint success story with the new 70 square meter store in the visually harmonious Stetson style. www.stetson.eu
This is how recognition value works: Stetson uses its iconic style in the historic setting of the building in Rua Nova do Almada.
A bag made from old jeans remnants and leftovers: Blue Dust by Mainetti Italia.
The single piece becomes a trendy summer look.
Daniele Fiesoli Italia Icons
To mark its seventieth collection, Tuscan knitwear label Daniele Fiesoli Italia presented its Capsule Archivio at Pitti Uomo. The limited edition comprises four knitwear styles from the 1990s and 2000s, which Daniele Fiesoli has reinterpreted from his archive. The Everlasting Icons are made from Egyptian Giza cotton and are known for their long and soft fibers. “This collection is a reminder that beauty and style are timeless and retain their value over generations,” explains Daniele Fiesoli. www.danielefiesoli.com, @danielefiesoliitalia
Duno
A New Home
The outerwear specialist has moved its headquarters to the industrial area of Empoli, one of the most strategic locations in the Italian fashion industry.
The new premises extend over two buildings, with more than 4,000 square meters and a further building for administrative, sales and marketing offices as well as a showroom and logistics. The architecture combines minimalism and geometric elements that create a strong aesthetic impact.
“The decision to purchase a new headquarters is a result of the continued growth of our brand and the desire to better support customers through new global strategies,” explains CEO Chris Wang.
Conceptual
Maximilian Rupp’s strategy for Hacoy? To create timeless fashion with a sustainable approach, which is successively supplemented by individual areas. After swimwear and sportswear, now comes travelwear: minimalist, elegant, comfortable and easy to care for. Silk, linen, organic cotton and Lycra are used, with production taking place in Italy and Lithuania. The high-quality packaging also demonstrates the claim to think the product through to the end. A linen shirt, for example, costs 180 Euros/retail price, while a sports shirt is available for 100 Euros. The launch was exclusively B2C, but Hacoy is now set to gain a foothold in B2B. www.hacoy.com
Hacoy
New headquarters in the brand’s DNA: Duno.
Hacoy Travelwear combines style with sustainability.
Campaign image from the 1990s.
Reissued polo shirt made from Giza cotton.
Mey
Top Performance
PRFRMNC+ is the new functional winter sports underwear from Mey. An absorbent material is used, especially in the back and the rear section of the leggings, which keeps the skin feeling dry even during intense activity, and defies low temperatures. Perfect for ski tourers and other extreme athletes who sweat at the back when carrying a backpack. Odor build-up is prevented thanks to a special bacteriostatic fiber. Virgin wool with Coolmax yarns provides warmth and temperature regulation in areas of the body that cool down quickly. There are T-shirts, long sleeves, standup collars, cyclists and leggings, for women from XS to XXL and for men from S to XXL. The colors for men focus on contrasts with Olive Beech and Indigo Melange, combined with Yacht Blue. Black dominates the women’s line, while Energetic Red is accentuated with golden stitching. The new line in high-quality packaging will be available in the NOS range from October 2024. www.mey.com
Bringing Back the Good Times
Is Menno van Meurs a romantic? Absolutely, because he has a passion for the unconditionally high-quality denims by Levi’s or Calvin Klein of the 1980s and 1990s. And no, because this love shows him the way for Tenue. “Jeans are sexy, strong and self-confident, but this sexiness has often been lost in the industry because quality has been neglected,” says the Dutchman. “That’s why we are investing all the more uncompromisingly in high quality - with the supply chain in mind, for the best possible version of Tenue and ourselves.” This can be seen in the collection, which uses organic cotton and recycled denim. There are a handful of core silhouettes in different lengths, with new colors and washes added each season. The T-shirts,
sweatshirts and shirts in casual vintage colors don’t overdo it either. The fact that all Tenue jeans can be repaired free of charge in the company’s own studio is part of the sustainable understanding and commitment to their fans. What else gives Tenue customer proximity? Menno van Meurs is a passionate retailer himself. Over the past 16 years, he has built up a worldwide reputation as a specialist for jeans and fashion lovers. The mono-label store also provides the brand with important feedback. Sales, for which First Floor Agency is responsible for the D-A-CH region, are developing with a corresponding focus on specialist retailers. “We love Tenue, the passion of the team behind it,” says agency co-founder Ludovico Nees. “Our eyes always sparkle when we leave the Amsterdam headquarters.” www.tenuejeans.com
PRFRMNC+ from Mey promises function in extreme conditions and low temperatures.
Made in Italy, unconditionally high quality: Denim by Tenue.
Tenue
Charismatic, idealistic, convincing: Menno van Meurs.
Regardless of the Season
Wear underneath? Wear on top? Both are possible with the tops, T-shirts and long sleeves from Seamless Basic. “We’ve been looking for a collection like this for a long time,” says Bettina Groeger from Agentur Knallgrau, delighted with her new addition from Denmark. There are different styles in seven qualities such as cotton and organic cotton, silk and merino wool, in soft, flattering colors, at purchase prices starting at 16 Euros. As few seams as possible ensure a purist look and a good feel. Another plus point: the collection can always be reordered and is available at short notice. www.seamlessbasics.com
Porter
Craftsmanship
The Tanker bag series by Japanese label Porter is not only celebrating its 40th anniversary, but is now also made from nylon, which is extracted from corn and castor oil. The material, manufactured by long-standing partner and producer Toray Industries Inc., is called “Ecodear N510” and ensures that both texture and appearance of the 40 new Tanker models remain unchanged. The only difference is that no petroleum is used. Perfect: not even the machines for production need to be changed - that’s a world first! www.yoshidakaban.com
On Tour
Four Saturdays, four cities, four collection pieces. Influencer and designer Justin Fuchs took his highly hyped Peso collection to a stationary format for the first time. His first offline drop took place in May in a twelve-meter-long overseas container, with which he made guest appearances in Berlin, Düsseldorf, Vienna and Munich. “We wanted to come up with something really special, something that the whole Peso community could be part of. Not just a store in one city or a pop-up tour, we wanted to do it the top-notch Peso way!”
Peso
Made in Japan: Porter’s tanker models are now made from purely plant-based nylon.
Seamless Basic
Purist styles in pastel colors: Seamless Basic is new at Agentur Knallgrau.
Meta Reality Labs Digital Tailoring
With Garment3DGen, Meta Reality Labs presents a design software that seamlessly bridges the gap between vision and reality - without the need for specialist knowledge. With just one image or text prompt, detailed, simulation-ready 3D models are created - a game changer for designers and brands. The focus is on the precision of the textures and the adaptability to various body shapes, supported by highly developed algorithms. The texture estimation module enables very accurate mapping of the given designs, including colors and patterns.
As light as summer in Puglia - the women’s collection from Circolo 1901.
Quite Comfy
A double-breasted blazer and trousers with a double pleat - and the perfect grandpa style is complete! The bonus: the ladies’ suit is made from extra-light premium jersey. Other highlights of the spring/summer collection include: a coach jacket with parachute trousers, short and long-sleeved blouses, culottes and trench coats in a super-light, technical material. The color palette ranges from rust red and lagoon to neutral tones such as cream and ash grey. Stripes in various widths, denim effects, glen check, Prince of Wales, checks and floral prints characterize the prints. www.circolo1901.it, @circolo_1901
Garment3DGen transforms designs and ideas into detailed 3D models.
White
Milano
Let the Sunshine In ...
From June 15 to 17, 2024, over 100 brands came together to give an insight into their resort collections. Particular emphasis was placed on those labels that represent summer fashion for different occasions - from relaxed beach days to evening cocktail events. To name a few brands: Sruti Dalmia, Tallulah, Yola Neme, Cansuxi, Apaya, BukawaSwim, Sorbet Island. This resort event of White was a preview of the edition that will take place on September 19-22. Renowned agencies such as Summer Games from Luxembourg and Victor Showroom from South Korea were also in attendance.
Circolo 1901
Sorbet Island: Entrepreneur Sophia Mamas stands for a taste of the summer.
spring/summer ‘25
WER TE TRA GEN
Perhaps the perfect formula: Italian in its stylistic roots but shaped by an active life - because the woman who juggles many roles has no time or desire to iron a blouse, starch a collar or be met with wrinkles when unpacking her suitcase.
“Comfort and performance in modern essentials, that’s empowerment,” says Roberto Ricci, founder of the brand. RRDs Womenswear is reduced, not unadorned, pragmatic, not puritanical, elegant, not superficial: with a clear commitment to premium prices, RRD Women occupies a niche that is larger than you might think. www.robertoriccidesigns.com
Camping in Style
Helinox is a pioneer in ultra-light outdoor and camping furniture. The Korean brand is constantly committed to collaborative innovation and design through collabs with Patta, Maison Kitsuné, Pendleton, Neighborhood, Carhartt, Off-White and RVCA, among others. The Helinox bags, which have now been added to the range, are all the rage, as are tents for fans of the outdoors.
@helinox
On the move: RRD’s womenswear is aimed towards modern women.
Helinox
since 1949
Shirtmakers
COME RAIN OR SHINE
“We have been working with Pret pour Partir for over ten years,” says Berit Petersdorf, owner of Angelo’s in Hamburg. “The jackets and coats are particularly popular with women with their own style. Seasons? There aren’t really any, and you don’t miss them either. The great qualities protect against wind and weather.” www.pretpourpartir.fr
TRAVEL COMPANION
In the fashion industry, it feels like it’s always travel season. The founders of Carl Friedrik want to offer high-quality, timeless luggage with a good price-performance ratio to a discerning audience. Their unisex suitcases, briefcases, rucksacks and weekenders are already available at Harrod’s and Selfridges. Brothers Niklas and Mattis Oppermann founded the brand in London in 2013. @carlfriedrik
PRACTICAL, BUT PRETTY!
“There are hardly any attractive AND smart urban outdoor products,” says Katharina Rottkemper, who wants to change that together with Sabrina Ahrens. Terrycloth dresses are all-rounders, the waterproof beach bag can be used as a shopper and the picnic blanket has an integrated washable garbage bag. Clever! www.gokoho.de
Koho
IQ Studio Key Shapes
Fashion takes center stage, in even higher quality fabrics that set themselves apart from the mainstream. Outdoor meets indoor, for blousons and trucker jackets in nylon, denim, cotton and boiled wool. The Icon Bomber comes in a variation of colors and sometimes in a quilted look, with an oversized cut and matte gold trims. The new bomber is the blouson - with a recognizable orange lining. The bomber in leopard print is sensational and a blouson made of pure silk in Cosy Summer Colors is particularly elegant. Also new are piece-dyed denim jackets, ultra-light windbreakers, safari blazers in techno jersey stretch and boxy trucker styles. www.iq.studio
Colorful on Both Sides
Colorful polo shirts have always been an important part of the Italian label BOB’s collection. For the spring/summer 2025 collection, the theme has been further developed into a concept for reversible garments, i.e. wearable on both sides. After reversible pants and jackets, the reversible polo is now available in many different, finely nuanced color combinations. The little wink in the details with a lot of love for fabric qualities and finishing once again characterize the unmistakable and always wearable style of BOB. @bobcompanytheoriginal
Gant’s collaboration with Nando Studio opens up a fascinating connection between fashion and art and invites you to discover the creative passion of both worlds.
Gant
Artistic Dialogue
In collaboration with Nando Studio, Gant is presenting an exclusive carpet collection that breaks new ground. The works, designed in the style of Gant’s new summer collection, will be on display at Café Cøffe in Düsseldorf. Nando is known for his handmade carpet artworks featuring unconventional color and shape combinations. His works radiate joie de vivre and offer an inspiring escape from everyday life. His artistic creation process is a personal journey that he works out in his studio in Cologne. @gant, @nando_studio
BOB is getting really colorful this season.
Fashion piece: The leopard-print bomber from IQ Studio.
BOB
Blauer USA
Modern
Lifestyle
The Italian outerwear brand unveils its spring/ summer 2025 collection, consisting of five lines for men and women: B.Essential, B.Urban Police, B.Department, B.Rider and B.Project. Each of these capsules has its own special characteristics and yet has a lot in common with the others: timeless elegance, technical innovation and functionality, all for a modern lifestyle. At B.Essential, the highlights for men are shell and bomber jackets in vibrant colors such as sand green and yellow plum. The women’s collection offers elegant blazers, trench coats and versatile pants in pastel shades and neutral colors. B.Urban Police, as the name suggests, pays tribute to the brand’s uniform origins, which meet luxury streetwear. Men can look forward to cargo pants, sweaters and waterproof jackets in navy blue and sand. Women, on the other hand, will find blazers and dresses in blue and white that offer great freedom of movement and durability. Adventurousness and practicality take center stage at B.Department. For men, models in brown and military green, made of high-density nylon and cotton, for women jackets with large pockets made of lightweight materials. B.Rider is inspired by motorsports and features jackets made of nylon, leather and cotton in bold colors and with printed monograms. B.Project: this line is characterized by innovation, with practical details such as an LED-lit pocket. The line pushes safe and stylish mobility with cutting-edge materials and smart technologies.
B.Essential from Blauer USA features a beautiful range of pastel shades.
B.Rider, not just for bikers.
FAMILY BLISS
“GoFranck offers innovation at prices ranging from 200 to 400 Euros/retail price,” says Susanne Lindner, owner of Lindner Fashion. “Everything is well thought out, from the jacket pockets to the back reflector for cycling. The outerwear is compostable and inspires with fashionable unisex styles. How nice that my customers sometimes even dress the whole family in the jackets!” www.gofranck.com
Mizuno MINIMALIST AESTHETICS
The Japanese sports brand’s new Technical Line combines style and function. It represents Mizuno’s most innovative silhouettes, combined with pure performance components. The launch includes a Sportstyle edition of the 2012 Wave Prophecy LS made from mesh and synthetic leather. The spectacular sole underlines Mizuno’s expertise in structural technology. @mizuno_sportstyle
BAUHAUS COLAB
Three limited edition models were created in cooperation with Bauhaus. For the production of the backpacks, the color was applied to cork using silver foil and then integrated into the design. Consistent: The models were also photographed on the Bauhaus grounds. @ucon_acrobatics
Ucon Acrobatics
The
Nim Standard “Our Passion Is What Drives Us”
Congratulations on the tenth anniversary of The Nim! A brief look back: How has the brand developed?
Claudio Parolini, owner of The Nim: Thank you! A small start-up has become a globally recognized denim brand with a complete collection for men and women and loyal customers. It’s great what we’ve achieved thanks to everyone’s hard work, from the design team to the suppliers and our customers! It’s our passion that drives us to go the extra mile. Today, our distribution covers most of Europe through our partner network and we are focused on strengthening our presence and increasing awareness. You always listen to customer feedback. Your secret to success?
Yes, definitely. We incorporate feedback from retailers into our product development in order to constantly improve. For example, together with our strong partners, we have focused even more intensively on fabric research and the development of washes, with an increasingly sustainable approach, for example through water-saving techniques. In terms of fashion, the focus of our menswear is on comfort and modernity, with our bestsellers slim and tapered fit, complemented by new styles with straight and wide legs. The women’s collection is much more diverse, also with wide fits, which we have now expanded to include super-light, soft denims. We will continue to focus on innovation in the future and intensify our commitment to quality and sustainability. www.thenimstandard.com
SALT
Fully Booked
The Salzburg order fair SALT is fully booked again this summer. The mix of fashion, manufacturing and traditional clothing brands now attracts guests not only from the Alpine region, but from all over Europe. The successful concept of combining two consecutive events per season with the opportunity for non-committal browsing or relaxed ordering is becoming increasingly popular. “The community grows with every edition, and everyone is enthusiastic about the working atmosphere,” explains organizer Hubert Stolzlechner. Basics such as free parking in sufficient numbers, the proximity to Brandboxx and the nearby highway access do the rest. “We will be looking for suitable spaces on site again for the coming winter so that we can offer another expansion.”
SALT Ordertage Salzburg, Gusswerk
SALT01: July 23 to 24, 2024
SALT02: August 23 to 25, 2024
@saltsalzburg, www.salt-salzburg.at
Comfort and modernity: Menswear from The Nim.
Tradition and modernity skillfully combined: SALT in Salzburg wins over visitors and exhibitors alike.
Stylish and diverse: The Nim women’s collection.
Carl Gross Modern Composure
With Concept Green, menswear brand Carl Gross focuses on suits in relaxed cuts, summery half-lined jackets made of linen and linen blends and shirt jackets with a linen structure. The shoulders of the blazers are becoming rounder and the lapels more voluminous. The double-breasted suit is back in focus. Crisp cotton fabrics, seersucker and high-twist wool create new looks in shades ranging from gray to black, natural tones or blue, accentuated with rosé and dark berry. The Black Line looks more dressed up in silk and silk blends, while the new silhouette of the occasion capsule Say Yes seduces with light, flowing fabrics in fresh pastel shades. www.carlgross.de
Interactive
Neonyt Düsseldorf is moving into the Bilker Bunker and is opening its concept to the public on an hourly basis. “The Bilker Bunker is open to everyone and offers the setting to showcase sustainable fashion,” says Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director Igedo Exhibitions. The Fashn Rooms order platform is also moving to the cold steel hall within Areal Böhler. Daylight, industrial charm and the opportunity to view the collections in a single tour are the advantages. The Showroom Concept for brands and agencies, which starts on July 26, remains unchanged. neonyt-duesseldorf.com, fashn-rooms.com
Neonyt Düsseldorf moves into the Bilker Bunker.
Fashn Rooms at the Areal Böhler.
Inviting
A great atmosphere at Glockenstraße 16: “For Düsseldorf Fashion Days, our showroom becomes a small trade fair during the fair,” says Sabine Lamann from the agency of the same name. “In addition to my agency, six others will be exhibiting here on 600 square meters, such as Good Stuff Fashion by Silvano Rose, Agentur Michalski and Agentur SAS.” The agencies Knallgrau, Gabrielli Fashion Consulting, Pluslavie Denies Fröhlich and Bety Mitsch will also be there. There are 30 labels on show, including Yippie Hippie, Flona, Marlon, Purschoen, Viamailbag, Staff Jeans, Niu, Anokhi, Cordwainer, Noumeno Concept sowie Armagentum. www.agentur-lamann.com
Fashn Rooms/Neonyt Düsseldorf
Black Line Highlight Piece.
Space can be rented temporarily in Sabine Lamann’s Düsseldorf showroom.
Showroom Glockenstraße
Superdry Summer is Magic
The spring/summer collection celebrates infinite freedom and timeless looks. Inspired by sunny beaches and azure waves, it captures the essence of a summer adventure. Flowing silhouettes and earthy tones reflect the tranquility of the ocean and the beauty of the desert. Bright colors and high-quality materials meet versatile cuts that combine comfort and style and emphasize the inner strength of the wearers. For Spring/Summer 2025, Superdry transforms the magic of the hot season into wearable pieces and invites you to rediscover it in all its facets.
Perfect Fit!
Still wider, or narrower leg shapes? The trouser label 9AM by Dolores has a simple answer: anything goes! The brand shows its expertise in its collection with three delivery dates. Commercial yet edgy, this season sees the premiere of a raw denim range in a summery, thin quality. Because the fabric is so popular, the same material is also used to make tops such as shirts and blouses, polo shirts or sweaters, as well as dresses. The price range of the pants, from 66 to 74 Euros purchase price, allows for good calculations. In the D-A-CH region, Modeist relies entirely on fashion retailers with a strong focus on consultation. @modeist_
Meyenberg For the Bath
Cool packaging, natural contents: Meyenberg’s soaps are vegan and free from sulphates, parabens, phthalates, and minerals. “We make the soap in France, where this craftsmanship has been practiced for many generations,” says Ida Meyenberg, who is behind the Swedish start-up. The liquid soap is available in Bergamot and Sea Salt, Wild Moss and Coriander, as well as Lavender and Sandalwood. 0.5 liters cost 28 and refill packs of one liter cost 47 Euros/ retail price. “All items are NOS and are calculated at 2.5,” says Johannes StrasserNunziati from First Floor Agency, which has newly taken on the label for Germany. www.meyenberg.se 9AM
ingredients.
Meyenberg soaps are made from natural
The perfect outfit for dinner on the beach.
Laidback cool: The Superdry man.
Light, summery raw denim is one of the highlights of 9AM by Dolores.
Plan-C Genderfluid
For Carolina Castiglioni, there was nothing more obvious than designing a men’s collection for Plan-C in addition to womenswear. In any case, the often geometrically created styles have an androgynous character that blurs gender boundaries. The launch of menswear was presented at Pitti Uomo with an artistic installation. For the market launch, there is a compact collection of ten pieces, which are complemented by accessories, shoes and bags. The look is typical for the brand, which harmonizes tailoring, sportswear and utility. www.plan-c.com
Eleh
SelfExplanatory
Understated, minimalist, self-explanatory. “This collection hits the nail on the head,” says Michael Schulz from Agentur SchulzAco about the high-flyer Eleh. “In a season when few retailers were interested in something new, Eleh won over 40 new customers in Germany and Austria with its unbeatable combination of style at a good price, including Richy in Saarbrücken, Bailly Diehl, Room Nine in Bonn, Marie Bernal in Wetzlar and You & Style Bado in Munich.” The collection comprises 80 pieces, with particular expertise in jackets and dresses, most of which are monochrome, with lots of black and white, as well as soft camel tones to make the styles stand out particularly well. www.eleh.shop
Rich in Contrast
New at Agentur SchulzAco is Ermanno Firenze, the young debut line from Ermanno Scervino - with urban, feminine looks. “The versatile complete collection thrives on contrasts: sporty and formal, strict and flowing, masculine and feminine,” says Michael Schulz, who has taken over sales for Germany, Austria and Switzerland with his agency. The particular strengths of the spring/summer 2025 collection are dresses and knitwear with a summery lightness as well as expressive colors and prints. The prices are on the higher side, with an average purchase price of 130 Euros. www.ermannofirenze.com
Ermanno Firenze
A women’s collection is often added to an existing men’s collection - Carolina Castiglioni does it the other way around for Plan-C.
Feminine power looks: Ermanno Firenze.
Timeless elegance: Eleh.
PERFECT MATCH
“The collaboration with Rossi is a matter of the heart,” say Patricia and Clemens Wirschke. “We share a vision and are overwhelmed by the demand for the Noa Cropped.” More than 100 pairs of pants were sold at the launch event at C. Wirschke in Düsseldorf. For the release of the bestseller, more than 400 pairs of pants were ordered in the online store, 230 of them within the first ten minutes. @rossi_pants
WINTERPROOF
Sporty, authentic and functional - this is how the first snowboard capsule collection from Strellson presents itself. Two jacket models with welded shoulder seams, laser-cut details and adjustable hood and collar width form the heart of the collection. Completing it are cargo pants and a variety of must-haves made from thermoactive materials. strellson.com
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Ineos is launching a limited edition of its Grenadier SUV model to mark Belstaff’s 100th birthday. The 1,924 vehicles in Magic Mushroom and Inky Black with shiny black wheels and an exclusive leather interior will feature a Belstaff anniversary emblem and can be ordered from June 26. Ineos CEO Lynn Calder: “Style that lasts a century deserves to be celebrated.”
Grasegger
Above the Times and Regional
The traditional costume and fashion store in Garmisch-Partenkirchen has been part of the family business since 1984. Now, with the freshly renovated ladies’ and fabric department, the last area is also shining in new splendor. Everything complete? For now. What was important during the renovation? Franz Grasegger, owner: We wanted to work with local businesses. Some of them were already involved in the original construction in 1984. We also wanted to reflect the region. How did you achieve that?
By relying on traditional elements, but also being able to be modern. We also attach great importance to sustainability. It is important that the designs stand the test of time. My parents achieved great things 40 years ago. What was the biggest challenge?
Our customers are buying much more consciously. It’s not so much about quantity, but how something hangs and is presented in the store. Does that suit me too? I see it as an opportunity. I know my customers, I know my product and I can create something beautiful. www.grasegger.de
Munich Fabric Start
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start
Trusting One’s Intuition
What will be needed in the future?
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start: The industry needs to trust its intuition again. For us, every season is a new beginning, a reset, a new season full of commitment, motivation, and further development. If these times are otherwise all about maximum effectiveness and efficiency, then our trade fair offers the space for the opposite: opening up to new things as much as possible and taking away as many impressions as possible. We are working together tightly with our exhibitors to offer this.
What can we expect?
Exciting highlights, ground-breaking innovations and aesthetically sophisticated trend areas by high-quality, internationally relevant exhibitors showing innovative fabrics, sustainable materials, and pioneering technologies to encourage our industry to trust itself again and regain confidence in itself. We are particularly pleased that Li Edelkoort is returning to the stage of our trend seminar!
Munich, September 3-4, 2024 www.munichfabricstart.com
Save The Duck
A New Standard: Digital Product Passport
While many brands are still puzzling over how to implement the Digital Product Passport, Save the Duck is already in the middle of the solution: the company has been using networked product smart tags via Certilogo since the 2024 summer collection. Customers can scan the QR code that is attached to the product itself and then not only register it - which guarantees authenticity and helps in a later resale - but also retrieve all the information about the product. This promotes transparency, traceability, and the circular economy. www.savetheduck.com
Joint coup with Certilogo: Save the Duck provides Digital Product Passports via QR codes.
“We are 100 percent Garmisch-Partenkirchen,” says Franz Grasegger.
Academia Competence and Coolness
Fashionable blouses that usually retail for less than 200 Euros and are priced at 2.8 to 3.0? That’s what the Academia women’s collection from shirt specialist Alessandro Gherardi in Pieve Santo Stefano offers. “We are absolutely ecstatic about the cool oversized styles that make Gherardi’s expertise tangible and visible,” says Ludovico Nees from First Floor Agency, which is responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. Cotton, linen and silk are used, often piece-dyed for even more casualness. The best styles? Button-down versions and slightly oversized Borrowed Shirts. www.alessandrogherardi.com
Triumph Heritage Collection Storytelling
The motorcycle brand from Hinckley in the UK inspired Hollywood films of the 1950s and 1960s. The images from The Wild One, in which Marlon Brando rides a Thunderbird 6T, are unforgettable. Triumph is commemorating these iconic moments with the Heritage Collection, which is distributed in the D-A-CH region, Belgium and Luxembourg by Dirk Thomas from Berlin. The 60-piece collection includes T-shirts, sweatshirts, and pique longsleeves made in Portugal at retail prices ranging from 59 to 149 Euros. The highlight is leather jackets at 600 Euros, plus pants, shirts, bags and caps. Customers already include Riders Room, Kentaurus and Clampdown. @triumphheritage
Ghigorotto Passion Project
As Global Sales Manager for brands such as Stone Island, C.P. Company, Woolrich and now RRD, Arianna Sacchetto has seen half the world, just like her husband Luca. A house in Langa/Piedmont was to be their place for a grounding balance to the fashion bubble, for hospitality, as they had experienced it time and again on their travels, for a new beginning - also for the house and its 80,000 square meters of hazelnut farming and forests that surround it. With completely regenerative agriculture, Ghigorotto is a place to recharge and reconnect - with three suites in this hidden gem for guests, for whom Arianna makes lasting experiences in the Unesco World Heritage Langhe and Monferrato possible. www.ghigorotto.com, @ ghigorotto
Backed by 20 years of knowhow: Academia.
Hidden Gem: Ghigorotto.
McQueen-style dirt bike conversions.
IGDS
As a Guest in Berlin
The IGDS World Department Store Summit 2024 will take place on September 12 and 13 in Berlin. This event provides a platform for CEOs and executives to discuss the latest developments and trends in retail. Under the motto “Embracing Experiential Retailing”, topics such as innovation, consumer behavior and the creation of omnisensoric shopping experiences will be addressed. Top-class speakers, including CEOs from Bloomingdale’s, Selfridges and Hugo Boss, will share their success stories and future strategies. In addition to professional input, the event focuses on networking and exchange. www.wdss2024.org
Bonaveri
Iconic Beauty
The collection includes nine different poses, seven standing and two seated.
What does the acquisition of the British brand Adel Rootstein mean for Bonaveri?
Susanne Oelmann, Exclusive Representative Austria and Germany: With the acquisition of the Adel Rootstein brand, Bonaveri is honoring the good things in history. The world of visual merchandising is so colorful and needs the kind of tools that Bonaveri has made available internationally in exemplary fashion and has added another facet with Rootstein.
Describe the magic of Adel Rootstein.
Bonaveri has built his international reputation with artistically sensitive and relatable abstractions of the human physiognomy, while Rootstein focuses on real-life icons of the fashion world, such as Twiggy or Yasmin Le Bon. This fosters the creative’s desire to use beauty as a projection surface for current fashion trends.
The new Yasmin Collection is the epitome of timeless elegance; the beauty of Yasmin Le Bon, the supermodel of the 1980s, reinterpreted.
Yasmin was originally captured as the epitome of timeless elegance by sculptor John Taylor. Now the new collection presents itself as a renaissance of this icon with respect for tradition and a forward-looking perspective in fit and slight alterations to the face. www.rootstein.com
Coming to Berlin: The IGDS World Department Store Summit.
The Yasmin collection not only inspires existing friends of the Adel Rootstein universe.
Photo: @igor_guskich_
BY AND FOR THE OCEAN
Twothirds was founded in 2010 by surfing enthusiasts in Barcelona. The name is derived from the fact that two thirds of the earth’s surface is covered by the sea. Production takes place in Portugal and Spain. All styles are made from at least 78 percent recycled materials. The swimwear is made from quick-drying Seaqual, which consists of recycled plastic from the ocean. @twothirds_bcn
CLASSY BUT DIFFERENT
SKATE OR BIKE
The legendary London folding bikes from Brompton are now available in a limited Palace Skateboards Edition. Special features include the unique color combination of Glowstick Yellow with Disco Silver, saddles and carrying bags branded with Palace lettering. To mark the launch of the collaboration, Palace has made a film with skater Rory Milanes, directed by Stuart Hammond. www.palaceskateboards.com
Circolo’s 1901 competence? Jackets! Perfected in every detail and optimized in volume, fabrics and color palette, they are the pillar of the brand from Apulia. This season’s must-see is an ultra-light cotton canvas fabric that is perfect for pants and outerwear: Fresh, light and comfortable to wear.
Neuw Denim
Modern Simplicity
Cross Australian and Northern European roots and you get an exciting, modern and uncompromising denim brand: Since its founding in 2009, Neuw Denim has established itself as a denim brand that puts cultural integrity above profit.
Born from the vision of three friends from Stockholm and Melbourne, Neuw Denim connects supposedly opposite worlds. The story of Neuw Denim begins in the Neuwlandstraat in Brussels, where creative director and co-founder Pär Lundqvist began to create something new from his vintage denim collection. These roots can be felt in every detail of the brand today. With denim archives dating
Culture in every detail: Neuw Denim.
ID Eight Eco-Conscious
The Italian brand produces vegan unisex sneakers made from organic materials. ID stands for identity and Eight embodies infinity. Materials obtained from agricultural or industrial waste are used for the upper material. These include recycled PES and biopolyols from maize crops, apple or grape skins and seeds as well as recycled plastics and cotton from Europe. There is a choice of three models in up to 16 colors at retail prices between 185 and 225 Euros. High Five Brands of Henning Kaesebier from Munich has taken over distribution in Germany and Austria. www.id-eight.com
back over 100 years, Neuw focuses on the best cuts, fabrics and finishes, combining vintage inspo with modern silhouettes.
Attention to Detail
At the heart of each collection are modern jeans, which impress with their attention to detail, fit and quality craftsmanship. Neuw Denim regularly collaborates with emerging and established artists, designers and musicians to create exclusive collaborations. Previous collaborations with artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, New Order, Joy Division, Jeremy Zucker and Jessalyn Brooks underline the brand’s creative approach. This summer, Neuw Denim will deliver its latest global collaboration: “Salvador Dali by Neuw Denim”. This collection promises to further blur the boundaries between fashion and art.
Fair Pricing
The price range is between 129 and 169 Euros, making it excellent value for money in the premium segment. Starting this season, Neuw Denim is relying on a new sales power: Patric Maly and his agency 4pm The Agency have taken over the agendas of Neuw Denim. “Internationally, the brand is well positioned with companies such as Selfridges, Liberty, Stockamann and Volt, and retailers such as Breuninger, Greta & Luis, Daniels and Snygg are on board in the German speaking countries. “I am convinced that it is a good moment – many buyers are looking for a new denim brand at a non-over the moon price point and a strong NOOS service”, says Patric Maly.
ID Eight sneakers are made from 87 percent recycled materials.
RAGMAN
Canadian Lightness and Freedom (of Movement)
The spring/summer 2025 collection from Canadian embodies lightness and freedom of movement. The label continues contemporary outerwear trends in the men’s segment and is characterized by clear, minimalist lines. Inspired by classic utility wear, parkas, biker jackets and field jackets are modernized with technical details such as breathable mesh, waterproof zippers and elasticated drawstrings. Stretch fabrics offer maximum comfort and functionality, while innovative surfaces such as crinkled cotton-nylon add a unique touch. The women’s collection features a more classic elegance with trench coats and ultra-light safari jackets. There is a creative capsule showcasing oversized parkas and bomber jackets in an almost transparent, ultra-lightweight ripstop nylon, embellished with oriental-inspired embroidery. Canadian relies on the art of design to create original looks. One of the highlights is a short bomber jacket with a fabric of quilted squares that create a dynamic effect of movement and lightness.
Trench with clean lines and soft tones.
Functionally well thought-out, neat, with a touch of the Alps: Maximilian from Tyrol.
The long-established Tyrolean company Steinbock is making its mark in the jacket segment. “After the insolvency of a competitor, we were clearly called to the pitch. Filling this niche of a sophisticated, richly finished jacket was something we were very keen to do, and that we were trusted to do,” reveals Managing Director Joseph Payr. He launched the Maximilian brand with a well-coordinated team. “We have goals, but we also have the calmness to achieve them. We are a flexible team, enjoy the trust of our suppliers and production facilities and have a solid reputation.” www.maximilian-fashion.com
Field jacket in technical nylon with a crinkled effect for him.
Maximilian “We Are Trusted to Deliver”
for adventure.
Wesentlich Essential
Aeronautica Militare Fascinated by Flying
Eye-catching decorations, military emblems and the Frecce Tricolori logo are the hallmarks of Aeronautica Militare. Their distinctive leather pilot jackets are worn by numerous aerobatic squadrons around the world. The Italian air force unit of the same name is also equipped by the Italian label. The shoe collection will be available in Austria for the first time from spring/summer 2025 and will be shown at Schuh Austria in Salzburg in August. From this season, Niko Fasthuber’s agency will be responsible for sales in Austria, Agentur Uli Masuch for Germany. www.aeronauticamilitareofficialstore.it
A manufacturer of sustainable cosmetics and care products that is committed to offering their customers essentials for body, mind and soul. From carefully selected oils to premium dry products, the German company offers top quality at fair prices. The team is made up of people with a strong passion for the best natural ingredients, and their commitment to quality and fairness is reflected in every aspect of the company. With multiple organic certifications, Wesentlich strives to capture the essence of nature in every product they offer. Available wholesale via Adventure Fashion Agency. wesentlich.shop, @wesentlich.shop
Dynamo The Good Company Helping Is Easy!
With the slogan “Right to Happiness”, every year the creators of the Dynamo Foundation in Italy realize the dream of 2,000 children with physical disabilities or cancer to spend a week of active vacations at a vacation camp. All this is made possible by over 1,000 volunteers and 500 qualified employees. Their team clothing is now available as a complete collection for children, women and men. WP Lavori is responsible for distribution in Italy, while the Munich-based agency Rosh Studio is responsible for distribution in Germany and Austria. www.dynamoshop.it
All profits go to the Dynamo Foundation.
Aeronautica Militare conveys freedom and a thirst
A CLASSIC!
Anyone who has created an icon like Sebago with their Dockside sailing shoe model can rest on their laurels? No way! In addition to traditional blue or brown, there are models in lacquer, red and white, as well as in metallic shades such as gold and silver.
RUNNING CIRCULAR
A classic goes fashion: Dockside from Sebago.
A TWINKLE IN THE EYE
Star stylist Brian Lichtenberg - who works with Rihanna, Beyoncé and Nicki Minaj - turns the world’s most famous fashion brands into wearable memes. The T-shirts and hoodies with inscriptions such as Party in the Prada triangle, Bucci in the Gucci gold or Homies in the Hermès style are available at retail prices ranging from 95 to 189 Euros; the agency for D-A-CH is Collective Fashion Agency. www.brianlichtenberg.com
The ballerina trend in sustainable? Ecoalf’s Margot model is knitted from ocean yarn, which is spun from plastic bottles collected as part of the Upcycling the Oceans project. The flat slippers are reduced to four components for better recyclability. In addition, the sole is sewn directly to the upper to make the materials easier to recycle. @ecoalf
AGENCIES IGHT NOW r
SchulzAco Agentur
FOCUS!
First of all, dear Michael: What’s new with you?
Michael Schulz, owner of SchulzAco Agentur: The Ermanno Firenze collection, which impresses with its urban, luxurious contemporary style.
You came out of the last season with a plus. That makes you strong for the coming one.
Sure, but you can’t rest on your laurels. That’s why we’re focusing on the brands with which we did good business last season. We are investing in our Düsseldorf and Munich showrooms with new employees. Our service has become even more important. Which collections are outstanding?
The big five Italian contemporary brands impress with their consistency: Pinko and Patrizia Pepe with brand awareness and a
high trend share, Twinset with the most new customers, Elisabetta Franchi with a clear DNA and Liviana Conti with exceptional quality standards. Furthermore, the Alessia Santi collection, minimalist and trend-independent, and Eleh, which won over 40 new customers from a standing start with cool elegance at democratic prices.
The biggest surprise?
The fact that we dare to tackle the topic of teenagers. From July 8 to 18, we will only be showing three girls’ collections in the Munich showroom, from Patricia Pepe, Twinset and Spinach Mafia, the little daughter of Salty Skin, a summer collection with super saleable prints and dresses.
F.l.t.r: Feminine coolness: Pinko. A permanent fixture at Agentur SchulzAco: Patrizia Pepe. Strong appearance: Elisabetta Franchi.
Adventure Fashion Agency FULL STEAM AHEAD
Marc Kofler has a clear strategy: “For the coming seasons, we will concentrate on consolidating our brands and focus on developing them further with retailers and emphasizing their strengths.” What are the strengths? “In the case of Cruna, it lies in the successful combination of Italian aesthetics with an excellent price-performance ratio.” The women’s collection has been with Adventure for three seasons now. At Duno, the focus is on combining looks with ready-to-wear. Kofler explains: “We won’t be taking on any new brands. We have labels whose potential has not yet been fully realized, that will be our task.” He also sees this trend in retail, where budgets are being cut and proven brands are being strengthened. Maintaining and expanding long-term relationships with partners in both directions is therefore a priority.
Cruna’s women’s collection is a highlight at Adventure Fashion Agency.
block2block Agency NEW ADDITIONS
New to the portfolio of Soran Mohammadi and Allan Jensen - with a showroom at Schirmerstraße in Düsseldorf - is LPFP, a denim label for men and women, which is only presenting its second collection. The brand stands for high-quality materials with a focus on sustainability. The pants, which retail from 140 to 220 Euros and are priced at 3.0, are complemented by basics and cool leather jackets, with an upper price limit of 800 Euros.
The second newcomer is Organic Basics from Copenhagen. The T-shirts, sweatshirts, underwear and leisurewear are available in sizes XXS to XXL at retail prices ranging from twelve to 60 Euros. The styles are available in three or six colors, some in twelve. They are made from vegan fabrics such as PETA- and GOTS-certified organic cotton, Tencel Lyocell, Lenzing Ecovero or recycled nylon. www.block2block.de
Distretto 12 Woman is a new addition. “The capsule contains 40 pieces made from a technical and functional material in fresh and classic colors,” says René Michaelis, who sells the collection in Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. The main prices for blazers and outdoor pieces are between 169 and 279 Euros/retail, while pants and skirts cost 129 to 179 Euros. A tried and tested classic? “Absolut Cashmere, because the twelve-gauge cashmere can be worn all year round and the collection surprises with new, feminine styles in 30 colors,” says Daniela Michaelis. Goldgarn continues its success story: soft stretch denims take center stage without diluting the DNA. Absurd by OP is also successful, with jackets, trenches and parkas ranging from 179 to 299 Euros/ retail. The good mood factor is brought into play by Yippie Hippie, with bright colors and lovely details. www. michaelis-fashion-agency.com
Brands: Absolut Cashmere, Absurd by OP, Distretto 12 Woman, Goldgarn, Goldgarn My White Tea, Leomax Cashmere, Oakwood, Yippie Hippie
LPFP stands for Limited Products for People and offers a compact selection of contemporary silhouettes.
Easy sporty look: Distretto 12 Woman.
Room Nine Agency OUTSTANDING
What’s new with you, Torsten?
Torsten Müller, owner of Room Nine Agency: Distretto 12 is developing enormously, there is a new line of performance suits and jackets. The Ceremony theme is also being greatly expanded. Love Brand is growing into a real resort brand. In addition to the swim shorts, there will be a linen collection that will now include pants, jackets and shirts as well as the familiar shirts. And Afterlabel is finally showing a summer collection with light jackets, shirts and shorts. What has proved successful at the agency?
Distretto 12 is extremely successful because the menswear is very easy to understand. Another favorite label? Tom Ripley, with very well-fitting knitted polo shirts and T-shirts made of ice cotton, for example, which have a climate-regulating effect thanks to their structure. Incidentally, hardly any other collection has such a low return rate, because the quality is outstanding.
Brands: Afterlabel, Distretto 12, Love Brand, Ma.Strum, Tom Ripley www.roomninefashionagency.de
Lagom Fashion Agency NEW SHOWROOM IN DÜSSELDORF
The agency run by Christian Sanders and Philipp Schlösser is moving into a new showroom at the iconic 1950s Drahthaus on Kaiserswerther Straße in Düsseldorf. The portfolio is also being expanded to include two new brands for Germany and Austria. The unisex footwear brand Mono comes from Norway. The design office is based in Oslo, while the warehouse and production facilities are located in Portugal. For spring and summer 2024, the brand is offering sporty lifestyle sneakers such as low-tops for men and women with a leopard print or sandals, some with high-quality Vibram soles. The retail prices range from 170 to 220 Euros and the sizes are freely customizable without a minimum. In winter, customers such as My Classico had already launched with lambskin-lined boots in a classic mountaineering look.
The Swedish jewelry label Edblad was founded in Stockholm in 2006 by designer duo Cathrine and Hans Edblad. Durability, Scandinavian simplicity and sustainable production are the brand’s core values. The management team includes well-known faces from the Scandinavian fashion industry. The collection by head designer Karin Fritz is divided into three lines: Charms & Essentials with retail prices from 30 to 50 Euros, Seasonal Pieces and Fashiondesign with prices from 50 to 90 Euros and Statement Pieces, Fine Jewellery and Handmade Iconic Items for 90 to 200 Euros with a calculation of 2.5. Brands: Ay Studios, Edblad, Garment Project, Mono, Pig & Hen, Scandinavian Edition www.lagom-fashionagency.com
The jewelry brand Edblad has been on the market in Sweden since 2006 and is already positioned in many top stores in Scandinavia.
with
Mono from Norway impresses
high-quality sneakers in a cool look.
Tom Ripley stands for a perfect fit and great quality.
Agentur
Lamann
“I THINK REBELLIOUS AND MODERN!”
Sabine Lamann offers fashion and bags in a wide price range for premium retailers. Even in a segment that is often neglected.
Sabine, anyone who comes to your store at Glockenstraße 16 in Düsseldorf is initially impressed by the inviting atmosphere. What can people find here?
Sabine Lamann, owner of Agentur Lamann: A lovingly designed showroom with a special selection of labels. I want to inspire with emotions. We also try to find niche products for our customers: Fashion and bags with the best price-performance ratio. For example, cashmere from Flona, which offers super quality at prices ranging from 139 to 289 Euros/retail price. Likewise, the bags from Marlon, which interpret designer trends and cost only 19.90 to 65 euros/purchase price, and all this with a triple calculation. Among other things, I see a great need for the initial price ranges in the premium segment. But we are not limited to one price category, I see us as a democratic showroom where everyone can find something.
For example, you can find a lot of color.
Yes, that’s why I love the unique design of Yippie Hippie, which is completely developed in-house, including the prints. For me, the womenswear symbolizes the fun in fashion, and the women who have found the label once love it forever! The hand-embroidered bohemian-style bags from Viamailbag or the tote bags from Anokhi are just as rich in detail.
Finally, what’s new for you?
We’re picking up on the jeans trend with Staff Jeans from Greece, from skinny to cargo at 99 to 129 Euros/retail price. And Niù from Italy, which I also look after for NRW, is a new addition: An extraordinary complete collection with expressive prints that can be wonderfully combined.
www.agentur-lamann.com
Brands: For GER: Marlon. For NRW: Anokhi, Flona, Niù, Staff, Viamailbag, Yippie Hippie
Sabine Lamann offers a unique concept in Düsseldorf with space for six additional agencies and a total of 30 brands.
Cashmere at good prices: Flona. A collection for enthusiasts: Yippie Hippie.
The bags from Marlon are available in 20 colors at short notice.
Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734
Agentur Knallgrau PENTHOUSE
And now the penthouse: at the beginning of June, Agentur Knallgrau moved from the ground floor to the fifth floor of Frankfurter Ring 193a in Munich. “Here we have great light and a fantastic view of the mountains,” says Bettina Groeger. What’s more, the showroom area has doubled to 300 square meters. “We are expanding in all areas: The collections are growing, we are looking after more customers and are therefore also increasing our staff.”
A new addition to the portfolio is Seamless Basic with fine tops and T-shirts in silk, merino and organic cotton that can be worn not only underneath. Another advantage? The items can be worn all year round, a service that the agency is very keen to offer both existing and new customers. Liv Bergen got off to a promising start last season. “We were able to win over 30 new customers straight away with our casual jersey looks, and we now want to build on that,” says Harry Heinrich. “Floor is also doing extremely well, the brand is doing everything right and retailers appreciate the collection as well as the great service.”
Brands: Cute Stuff, Dawn x Dare, Floor, Liv Bergen, Noumeno, Seamless Basics, Shades, Shirtaporter, Tomorrow Denim, Wuth www.knallgrau-agentur.de
Agentur Matthias Schwarte PERSONAL RELATIONSHIPS
Anyone who has been managing brands for more than 30 years can be expected to prioritize the long-term. “Personal relationships are the basis for us,” says Matthias Schwarte. “Our brands are reliable and well positioned, so we currently see no reason to introduce new labels. We prefer to work in depth.” A good example is Balr, which is performing extremely well despite the market situation. Schwarte is also looking forward to the People of Shibuya collection, which was created by a new Head of Design, or the Collezione NO1 women’s collection by Daniele Fiesoli. “This line has real potential.” The team in Munich has invested in streamlined internal processes as well as internal and external communication. Brands: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione NO1, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Sundek, Whats, Weber + Weber, Whyat agentur-schwarte.de
Fashionable: Tomorrow Denim.
Summery easywear: Shades from Antwerp.
Three jacket models 16 years ago turned into a success story that helped shape Agentur Matthias Schwarte: Parajumpers.
Strong womenswear: Shirtaporter.
Unifa LOVE FOR L. A. DENIM!
Reinhard Haase has retained his love of denim and Los Angeles to this day. His latest find is Boyish from L. A.: the sustainably produced women’s collection is based on the style and authentic fabrics of typical denim menswear and uses organic cotton, recycled denim and animal-free ingredients, with retail prices starting at 279 Euros. The second new denim collection is called Ética from L.A., with lifestylish womenswear and menswear and also with sustainable aspirations. The style stands for easy sexiness with trendy details. Ragdoll is the third new addition to the Düsseldorf agency, known for its luxurious L.A. loungewear style.
The True Religion brand, which Unifa carries under European license, is getting a new boost. First and foremost the womenswear, which is different to True Religion Originals from the USA - namely quieter, high-quality and with sophisticated details.
Multinational: fashion agent Meta Pesch is now responsible for sales in Switzerland as well as Austria for her brands Derbe, 8Beaufort and Ooley. “The Ooley sock brand is really taking off!” she says happily. She also relies on proven brands with purpose: Racines du Ciel and Nicole Pietag, both of which are showing stable growth. What counts? “Service, service and service.” www.metapesch.com
La Fabrica
“Fair working conditions and high-quality craftsmanship are important to us,” says Ana Jaen, who founded the agency for shoes and bags made in Spain together with Miriam Gomez. The most important collections include, for example, KMB with great expertise in modern classics, sneakers and sandals, as well as the label Ann Kurz, which stands for minimalist and multifunctional leather bags and shoes. www.la-fabrica.de
Sock start-up from Bremen in happiness colors: Ooley.
Passion for shoes: KMB.
Authentic denim: Boyish.
Easy sexiness: Ética.
Fashionist
“RETHINKING PARTNERSHIPS”
Some labels stay in your portfolio for a very long time, others you say goodbye to quickly.
Marion Hoferer, founder of Modeist: I am convinced that we as an agency have to be just as inspiring, fast and uncompromising as our retailers are. If a label doesn’t work perfectly, we part ways out of a sense of responsibility towards our retailers - because they want to see things from us that they can be successful with and make money with.
What are you passionate about?
Timothy Hoferer, co-owner of Modeist: For brands with enormous potential like JNBY or Less, I got to know the structures in China, an impressive billion-dollar company with a lot of desire for Europe. I also immediately liked Alysi, the look is contemporary feminine. Behind it is a highly professional company that supplies the 700 best retailers worldwide.
What do you wish for?
Marion Hoferer: More time on the part of the buyers. Those who make the decisions for half a year’s sales should not rush through them. Potentials such as Less or JNBY, where the labels are also prepared to invest in partnerships, need to be discussed strategically. The same applies to our core brands Pride to Be, Soldout, 9AM by Dolores and Nineto9 - we can develop so much together! Whether it’s special models, private labels or coherent cross-brand packages where one part fits into anotherit takes more than 30 minutes. What new additions are there?
Timothy Hoferer: Alysi and Day Birger et Mikkelsen are joining us, as well as Less, a brand from the JNBY universe. We’ve had Alohas for a while, but now we’re in the groove and see that both shoe areas for department stores and small, fine essentials for fashion retailers work really well. Brands: 9AM by Dolores, Alohas, Alysi, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, 8 PM, JNBY, La Milanesa, Less, Nineto9, Pride to Be, Seventy Venezia, Soldout
Alysi (pictured left) and Less. Perennial favorite: Pride to Be (pictured right).
9
TO 5 S/S 25 COLLECTION
FORMAL WEAR
Introducing our spring/summer 2025 menswear collection, where we redefine formal wear for the modern office. Embrace the ease of our new office essentials, designed to effortlessly transition from desk to dinner, without sacrificing style or ease.
MULTIBRAND STORES ARE WORKING
Elvis, how was the last season?
Elvis Giglione, owner of Elvis Fashion Agency: The market conditions are not easy, but the smaller multibrand stores are working and so are our labels. Despite lower footfall in retail, especially in the large stores, we were able to record small growth rates. What will spring/summer 2025 be like?
We remain realistic and are focusing on consolidating the brands that continue to perform well, even in ready-to-wear. We are constantly receiving new orders, which gives us courage and excitement for the coming season.
Is there any news?
Yes, I decided to round off the top end of my portfolio with Gabo, a third-generation ready-to-wear label from Naples. These are very high-quality, almost tailor-made suits and jackets in which I see a lot of potential.
GIANNI KLEMERA, CEO & FOUNDER FATTORE K-HOUSE: A lot: 2024 marks my 40th anniversary in business, the tenth anniversary of Fattore K and the launch of K-Lab with six brands.
K-Lab is a new concept.
Under the motto “Out be in”, we are opening a second showroom in Via Tortona with K-Lab. The focus is on lifestyle, outdoor, sport and performance wear.
And the roof is called Fattore K House?
Exactly, consisting of K-LAB and Fattore K. With two showrooms in Milan and a back-office team in Bolzano, we are ready to continue making really good Cool Hunting and take advantage of new opportunities. We are looking forward to this chapter.
Brands: Anonymous Ism, East Harbour Surplus, G.H.Bass, Howlin’, Karhu, Merz b. Schwanen, Nobis, Norse Project, Ordinary Fits, Paraboot, Pop Trading Company, Portuguese Flannel, Purple Mountain Observatory, Red Wing Shoes, Stepney Workers Club, Service Works, Taion, Universal Works, Wild Donkey, Youmustcreate www.fattorekmilano.com
The readyto-wear brand Tagliatore shows a knitwear line.
Ventrella TIMELESS FEMININITY
Detailed collections made in Italy that impress with the unique mix of Gaby and Michele Ventrella: “Our collections embody the essence of timeless femininity, seamlessly blending the labels from our portfolio to create a sophisticated and elegant style,” explains Gaby Ventrella. Highlights include Tagliatore’s knitted capsule made from fine materials and Nine in the Morning’s innovative denim collection featuring embellished jeans. Bazar Deluxe is also introducing a beachwear line for the first time, which perfectly complements their characteristic hippie chic. At Sorelle, the many skirts and tops that can be combined to create elegant ensembles are particularly appealing.
Brands: 813, Anitroc, Avant Toi, Al Ain, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, Le Sarte Pettegole, NDV, Nine in the Morning, Nove, PAO, Sorelle, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei www.agentur-ventrella.de
New: Gabo, craftsmanship from Naples.
Fattore K House
Gianni Klemera is celebrating 40
New addition to Komet und Helden: Nomad Society, a sneaker brand with a good price-performance ratio.
Komet und Helden
EUROPEAN CHAMPIONS
Henrik, your prediction, European champions?
Henrik Soller, co-owner of Komet and Helden: We can do it!
In the agency business, as well?
We’ve seen a shrinking market for many years, players are leaving the field every year and new ones aren’t always coming in. That’s a fact, just like the rising costs. The fact that retailers with a 2.5 to 2.6 can no longer cover their costs is actually crazy. We need to reposition ourselves. How does the next generation have to work in the agency business? Operationally, not much differently, but they must keep the end consumer in mind. Our generation of agencies always asked themselves what the retailer wants and how we can work so well that the retailer wants to buy
as much as possible from us. My son’s generation has to focus on the end consumer.
Is the system of a large agency like yours agile enough?
Not when it comes to compensating for these very short-term economic fluctuations that we are experiencing now. This is not possible for many good reasons, such as employee protection. But flexibility is not the only quality you have to offer as a large agency - I clearly see our strength in the fact that we offer commercial brands that bring reliability and consistency to sales. Because in addition to all the challenges we are currently facing, there also need to be things that simply work.
Brands: 7 for all mankind, Aspesi, Baracuta, Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Denham, Deus Ex Machina, Dickies, Elite 55, Filson, Flower Mountain, Icon Denim, K-Way, Le Bonnet, Nomad Society, Save the Duck, Sunspel, Superdry, Ten C, Two Jeys, Universal Works www.kometundhelden.de
First Floor Agency IN EXCHANGE
The three of you founded your agency last season. How are you going into the next round?
Samuel Schatten: We got off to a good start and are super happy with our partners! The close exchange is also decisive for the next season: Where can we improve as an agency?
Ludovico Nees: At White Sand, we have just helped design a new waistband solution that fits even better with the sporty pants. We are emphasizing the fact that White Sand stands for Fabric Research with information banners on the bag that point out the material, such as cotton cashmere or high-quality Pima cotton. We think communication with the end consumer is very important. What’s new with you?
Johannes Strasser-Nunziati: Academia from Gherardi, a collection of shirts for women with a fashionably casual fit and piece-dyed in cotton, linen and silk. There is nothing comparable in the core price range of 160 to 220 Euro/sales price, calculated at 2.8 to 3.0.
Dressed up and sporty at the same time: White Sand.
Ludovico Nees: This is how we round off our portfolio: Denim from Tenue and outerwear from Paltò, which impresses with stylish blousons, overshirts and field jackets, while Krakatau stands for fashion and outstanding technical performance.
With Bongusta, you are also moving in the direction of lifestyle. Samuel Schatten: Yes, the terrycloth products and the rugs are unique and everything is NOS. We will be expanding the lifestyle area and our customers can look forward to new things.
Brands: Anonymous Apparel, Bongusta, Krakatau, Paltò, Tenue, White Sand www.firstflooragency.com
Independent with the labels Maximilian and I’m Fine Knitwear: Michael Schippers.
Schippers Die Modeagentur UNDER HIS OWN FLAG
Many customers know him as the sales manager of Schneiders in Germany and Austria - Michael Schippers has now been sailing under his own flag since December 2023. His agency is home to the outdoor brand Maximilian, which is backed by the long-standing Austrian company Steinbock. A home game for Michael Schippers, both in terms of a large number of his former companions and the segment and potential customers. “There is a need for a smart jacket that is high-quality and stylish and not immediately crazy expensive, and I am delighted that we can offer a highly competent range with Maximilian,” says the sales professional. The second brand in the portfolio is I’m fine Knitwear, a men’s knitwear from the Netherlands that can fulfill almost any retailer’s wish and scores with a strong stock and NOS.
ms@schippers-dieagentur.de, @schippers.dieagentur
stands for a luxurious everyday look.
Pegaso Consulting
“Quality is the best recipe,” says Kristin Beyer from the Pegaso Consulting agency in Düsseldorf. “That’s why we like to work with product specialists who produce high-quality, long-lasting fashion.” For example, contemporary womenswear from Jucca, timelessly elegant and luxurious, or Grifoni for men and women: A rather quiet style with recognizable craftsmanship, also made in Italy.
www.pegasoconsulting.de
The human touch is important: Ludovico Nees, Samuel Schatten and Johannes Strasser-Nunziati.
Great for gifting: The NOS items from Bongusta.
Jucca
Agentur Stolz ROOM FOR IDEAS
“The realignment of Habsburg by the new owners is complete and the last season was already extremely satisfactory. We are looking forward to a great new summer collection,” says Hubert Stolzlechner, owner of Agentur Stolz in Salzburg. The same applies to the Josef & Anna collection. The new owners, under the direction of designer Christian Weber, will also be launching a joint collection this year to mark Pleamle’s anniversary. Agentur Stolz’s showroom can now be rented for events all year round. Whether for 20 or 350 guests, the historic brick building in a modern loft style with its surrounding gallery on the upper floor offers numerous possibilities, from art exhibitions to car presentations.
Brands: Atelier Alpiniste, Dirndl und Bua, Josef & Anna, Habsburg Kleidermanufaktur, Lodenwear by Steiner, Manufaktur Grasegger, Me°rchen Me°dchen, Pleamle, Steiner1888, Wallmann www.hstolz.at
Die Hinterhofagentur UNCOMPROMISING
“We believe in great products at a reasonable price. It was with this enthusiasm that we dedicated ourselves to the fashion industry. We don’t let ourselves miss out on the fun,” says Dominik Meuer from Die Hinterhofagentur. A new addition to the portfolio is the French blouse and dress label Sacrécoeur, originally a fabric manufacturer from Lyon, who has been running its own label since 2016. The casual men’s brand Keeling, which was successfully launched in January, is set to take off. The collection focuses on knitwear and knitted fabrics with a patented piece-dyeing process that allows for many color variations. “We are delighted when special products eventually become brands. However, the most important brand is the retailer itself. We want to strengthen that.”
Brands: Atelier Alpiniste, BOB, Des Petits Hauts, Four Ten, Hartford, Hetregó, Keeling, Koike, Noir’n’bleu, Original Vintage Style, Portofiori, Prime Shoes & Hamlet, Sacrécoeur, The Jack & The Jackie, Wool & Co. www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Niko Fasthuber
POOLED POWER
“I work together with my client Bugatti full of energy and in a wonderful dynamic,” enthuses agency boss Niko Fasthuber about the new vibes that he wants to utilize with Tobias Penegger for the order round. Wholesale expert Fasthuber and retail professional Penegger exude combined power and want to show what their brands are capable of. The showroom in the Salzburg Fashion Mall is being remodeled and expanded to three units. A perfect setting for the presentation of the entire Bugatti world and, as of now, Aeronautica Militare. Both brands are heartfelt projects, managed by family businesses with tangible values, flat hierarchies and short decision-making paths. “As a pilot, I feel connected to Aeronautica Militare, a brand with aviation origins and a touch of acrobatic elegance,” says Fasthuber, emphasizing the collection’s excellent price-performance ratio.
The Stolz agency showroom can be booked for events, concerts, or conferences.
Sacrécoeur is a new addition to the portfolio.
Power duo Niko Fasthuber and Tobias Penegger.
High Five Brands x Rosh Studio NEW SHOWROOM
Henning Kaesebier and Roshan Paul are bringing their agencies together in the new joint showroom near the Prisco Haus in Munich-Altbogenhausen. The rooms on the second floor of a historic building offer a perfect presentation space for the brands.
Rosh Studio, known for high-quality sneakers and shoes, is expanding its portfolio to include exclusive sportswear from Dynamo The Good Company from Milan, founded by the initiator of free vacation camps for children with disabilities or chronic illnesses in Italy. The profits go to the Dynamo Foundation.
High Five Brands represents a variety of menswear and sportswear specialists. Brand new this season are the vegan unisex sneakers from ID Eight and the sportswear from Suns Board.
Brands: Deperlu, ID Eight, La Martina, La Martina Shoes, Magazzino Ricambi, Peserico Uomo, Sense, Suns Boards, Traiano, Walbusch www.high5-brands.com
Brands: Abica, Baldinini, Corail, Dynamo The Good Company, Lemon Jelly, Nobrand, Nubikk www.rosh.studio
Orderlounge FOUR NEW BRANDS
“Sales for the spring/summer 2024 season are very good for our brands. At Blauer, some of the women’s items are already sold out. A lot is happening at Napapijri at the moment, as the new Creative Director Christopher Raeburn is working on a capsule for their most exclusive customers. Replay is impressing at the POS with its immense marketing power and No Name is popular with all customers,” explains Managing Director Darius Herges. The new additions are: Coccinelle, a bag brand with great premium models. Liu Jo’s shoe line impresses with its authentic style. Starhype, a new brand that produces sneakers made of butter-soft calfskin in the Veneto region and refreshes the fashion sneaker segment. Colors of California showcases colorful sandals at prices ranging from 49 to 99 Euros that not only appeal to fashionable customers.
www.orderlounge.de
Brands: Blauer USA, Coccinelle Shoes, Colors of California, Ecoalf, Foamers, Liu Jo, Napapijri, No Name, Replay and others.
Sportswear by Dynamo The Good Company.
Peserico Uomo is Silent Luxury made in Italy.
The showroom in Kennedy Park at Kaiserswerther Strasse 117 displays 16 brands on 750 square meters.
KNALLGRAU/Agentur für Mode / Bettina Groeger & Harry Heinrich GbR www.knallgrau-agentur.de / office@knallgrau-agentur.de / +49 89 62819414
Heritage Showroom LOOKS THAT CALM
Michael, what’s new?
Michael Brockmann, co-owner of Heritage Showroom: A new showroom at Kaiserswertherstraße, Düsseldorf. We have expanded from 85 to 170 square meters and can now show the collections in their full glory.
What are you focusing on this season?
Communicating the strengths of our brands. Storytelling is crucial now, in the showroom and on the floor. Our communication is based on predictability, quality, service and calmness. In addition to great emotion, retailers also need calming looks that don’t offend - that’s what Circolo 1901, Myths and Robert Friedman offer.
What are the highlights?
Linen in all its facets. Robert Friedman is a very strong blouse specialist. Circolo 1901 has introduced linen blazers and even trenches and jackets. Myths has developed a wide range of pants and is defining its DNA more and more clearly. Brands: Circolo 1901, Myths, Robert Friedman www.heritage-showroom.de
Select Studio KEEP THE PACE
Düsseldorf and Munich, two locations with high visibility, put Select Studio at the heart of the local agency scene. Susann and Bernard Waage are the power couple behind the sales agency. Their aim is to find a balance between the interests of suppliers and retailers. Facilitating, adapting to domestic markets, and scaling. For the new season, only one new name has been added to the existing portfolio - Hidn-Ander, the sneaker brand made in Italy with new ambitions. A task that Select Studio faces with humility. “We see so much potential in our agency’s existing brand line-up, which we want to consolidate and establish first,” says Bernard Waage.
Brands: By Malene Birger, Dante6, Essentiel Antwerp, Gestuz, Gianne Chirarini, Herskind, Hidn-Ander, Iceberg, John Smedley, Montecore, Munthe, Norse Projects, Paul & Shark, Solotre, Stine Goya, Stand Studio, Studio AR, Suncoo, Toral www.select-studio.com
Modeagentur Klaus
“Customers trust us,” says agency boss Christian Klaus and is delighted with his agency’s performance. The feminine portfolio promises a high level of fashion, innovative design and an attractive price-performance ratio with brands such as Absolut Cashmere, Gustav, Henriette Steffensen, JcSophie, Freedomday, Marc Aurel, Margittes, Knit-ted, Kyra, Oakwood, Reike, Penn & Ink N.Y or Unio Hamburg. www.modeagentur-klaus.at
New at Select Studio: Hidn-Ander.
Dedicated to his customers: Christian Klaus.
Beautiful, flowing fabrics in deep colors: Robert Friedman.
In Munich, the second location in Kurfürstenstraße is also active again, bringing the total floor space to 1,400 square meters in Munich and 1,600 square meters in Düsseldorf.
Agentur
Schröder/Berning
LAUNCH IN MUNICH
600 square meters of showroom space at Leopoldstraße 18, that’s quite an announcement: with this commitment to Munich, the Düsseldorf-based Agentur Berning is expanding to Munich in a joint venture with Matthias Schröder. Tim Sauer is the new showroom manager in Munich and will manage sales for the South and for some brands for Austria from there. The portfolio of Agentur Schröder/Berning offers a wide variety of international brands.
Brands: + People, Billy Belt, Bella Dahl, Canadian, CNC, Cotton Candy, Dixie, Emma & Gaia, Geox, Lunar Moon, Princess Goes Hollywood and others. www.agentur-berning.de
“WE
Ben And
ARE NOT A FASHION AGENCY”
But? “Fully committed to what can make this brand great,” says agency owner Ben Botas. “We have invested in our structures: four departments - progressive, contemp, premium and trend - are each led by their own team lead and sales management, with a management level above them with Mark Weerts as CEO, Max Schäbitz as CFO and Wolfgang Lohe as Sales Director.” A total of 45 employees visited 700 customers between seasons, analyzing their needs and potential in detail. Ben And manages 32 brands, including high-caliber newcomers such as APC, Maison Kitsuné, Sporty & Rich, From Future, Cheap Monday, All Saints and Love Stories. “A merchandise control team visits our partner spaces every two weeks, takes care of staff training, Friday and Saturday sales, merchandising and reporting, right through to suggestions for re-orders,” explains Ben Botas, “we have also developed a tool with Salesforce that centralizes all the data and allows us to support our retail partners much better.” www.ben-and.com
New at Shangri-Land: PDPAOLA from Spain, an insider tip at Europe’s best stores.
Shangri-Land HAPPIEST PLACE
She is Mrs. Feelgood: Ilka Nagelschmitz inspires her customers with a great deal of personal commitment, dedication to her brands and an understanding of the challenges retail holds. “Warm Me is constantly developing well, Sea Me Happy is gaining more and more fans and House of Dagmar is a real gift.” What is important to the agent? “The people behind the brands, on all sides,” she answers without hesitation. A new addition to the agency is the Spanish jewelry brand PDPAOLA, which rounds off Ilka Nagelschmitz’s portfolio. “Very contemporary, exactly the kind of jewelry a modern woman wants to wear, I really spent a long time looking for the right brand.” Further highlights of the portfolio that Ilka Nagelschmitz is showing in Paris, Düsseldorf and Munich: Neeve with GOTS-certified jerseys and the resort collection Nikben. Brands: House of Dagmar, Neeve, Nikben, PDPAOLA, Sea Me Happy, Warm Me www.shangri-land.de
meters
the most beautiful old building in Munich: Agentur Schröder Berning.
600 square
showroom in
• 2964 Garmisch
• Alpe Piano
•• Alpenherz
• Apple of Eden
• Anno Domini Design
•• Atelier Alpiniste
• Bella Susi
• Cocovero
• Creation Bauer
•• Daddy’s Daughters
• Dirndl & Bua
•• Farm um’s Herz
• Glanz & Zauber
• Glücklich
• Goiser
• Gottseidank
•• Grasegger Manufaktur
•• Grenzgang
•• Habsburg Kleidermanufaktur
• Heimatglück
• Hutfabrikation Josef Kepka & Söhne
•• Josef & Anna
• LederGott
• Lembert Hutmanufaktur
• Lena Hoschek
•• Lodenfrey 1842
•• Lodenwear by Steiner
• Litzlfelder
•• Luis Trenker
•• Me°rchen Me°dchen
•• Meindl Fashion
• Michaela Feyrsinger
• Mimmu
•• Münchner Lodenfabrik
•• Ostwald Bags
• Orginal Haferl
•• Pleamle
•• Ploom
•• Ploom xx Daddy’s Daughters
• Poldi
•• Resi Hammerer
•• RH 2023
• Rita in Palma
• Rockmacherin
• Romy North
• Schwangau Schuhe
• Säckler
• Seenberg
• Stajan Kunst & Mode
• Stephan Barbarino
• Stokton
• Thea Mika
• Verbenas
• Von & Zu
•• Wallmann
• Wildstelle
• Wolkenstricker
• Waterville
4pm the agency BOOM, BOOM, BANG
“We are well positioned,” says a delighted Patric Maly from 4pm. With a portfolio consisting of Butcher of Blue, Kiefermann (for southern Germany) and National Standard, the agency has joined the showroom collective at Colorful Trade and Lollys Laundry at Lodenfreypark. “We complement each other perfectly.” New at 4pm is Neuw Denim, cool jeans for men and women that score points with prices slightly below the usual premium price range. “Many people are shopping more price-consciously and denim is on the rise anyway, I think this combination fits in perfectly with the current times,” says Patric Maly. He is convinced that personal commitment makes the difference: for brand launches such as Butcher of Blue at Kastner & Öhler, where the Dutch brand has developed excellently in a very short space of time, he himself is present on the sales floor. Events such as at Steffl in Vienna or The Budims are also part of his self-image. Brands: Butcher of Blue, Kiefermann, Marie Stella Maris, National Standard, Neuw Denim www.4pm-agency.com
Agentur Prins-Juric “KEEP GOING”
“Things are picking up again,” Damir Prins-Juric is convinced. “We had a very good pre-order and the general impression that many retailers had not pre-ordered enough. This is a clear sign that things turned out better than expected.”
The agency is starting the season with many new items, whether from Aeon from Greece, Deblon or Janice from Holland, Silk Laundry from Australia, or Falguni Shane Peacock from India, it will be creative, colorful and exciting in the Prins-Juric showrooms. And fun, as always! Brands: Aeon, Amaranto, Ana Alcazar, Bobi Los Angeles, Deblon, Devotion Twins, Falguni Shane Peacock, Floor, Freshy, Front Street 8, Herzensangelegenheit, Icon, I’m Brian, Ivko, Janice, Johnny Was, Koon, Les Hommes, Les Tricots d’O, Lotus Eaters, Nebo, Newtone, Nimo, Outryght, Penn & Ink, Silk Laundry, Sincere, Smaak Amsterdam, Smashed Lemon, Sorena, Sura, Theras, Vilagallo, Voluspa, Wande Vos, Wushu www.prins-juric.com
Les Hommes is new at Prins-Juric.
Collective Fashion Agency
Carsten Strauss has sharpened his agency portfolio: in addition to brands such as cashmere brand Leap Concept, there are two new additions from this season: Elena Nancu, a designer with many years of experience, whose collection comes with a lifetime guarantee - anything that breaks will be repaired. Also new are the ironic shirts and hoodies by star stylist Brian Lichtenberg from L.A. - a wearable wink. www.collective-fashion-agency.com @collectivfashionagency
Neuw Denim - latest entry at 4pm.
Christian
M: +49 162 605 77 77
Chris@lagom-fashionagency.com
M: +49 174 106 99 88
Philipp@lagom-fashionagency.com
See You
at the 25!
It was a blast! Our thanks go not only to our many dear guests, but especially to our partners: Mainetti, Torrefazione Chelotti, Ecoalf, Wesentlich, Avant Toi and of course to the team of the 25hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino! Kay Alexander Plonka, Claudia Jordan, Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Stephan Huber, Martina Müllner, Nicoletta Schaper.
It‘s slowly becoming a tradition. On the eve of Pitti Uomo in Florence, an ever-growing crowd of fashion‘s finest meet up for the style in progress cocktail at the 25hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino, to catch up with old friends and make new ones, have good conversations and start the season in the best of moods. But above all to toast the future together!
See you at the 25… in 25!
Photos: Marco Pasquini
Carla Cuschié, Nicoletta Schaper (style in progress), Allessandra Cuschié (Owner Room Nine Concept Store)
Claudia Jordan (style in progress), Marco Lanowy (CEO Alberto)
Stephan Huber, Sara Cherubini and Raffaella Imò (Press Office White Milano)
Philipp Schlösser (Lagom Agency), Leandro Bobig (Komet und Helden)
Martina Müllner (style in progress), Kay Alexander Plonka (style in progress), Gerhard Knaus (Owner Knaus oder Knaus), Peter Balzarek (Gründer Deniba)
Julian Daynov (THE Julian Daynov)
Ralf Klute (Devision Head of CG Club of Gents)
Erica Galasso (Avant Toi)
Axel Schukies (Owner The Agents Agency), Holger Petermann (Owner Think.Inc)
Clarissa Debiel (Alberto), Philipp Walendy (Management Director Product Management Alberto), Michelle Bost (Alberto)
Stephan Huber (style in progress), Henrik Soller (Owner Komet and Helden), Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (style in progress), Florian Ranft (Owner Komet und Helden)
Achim Repp (Adventure Fashion Agency), Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (style in progress), Alexandra Stalherm (Adventure Fashion Agency), Marc Kofler (Owner Adventure Fashion Agency), Kay Alexander Plonka (style in progress)
Carla Cuschié, Nicoletta Schaper (style in progress), Torsten Müller (Room Nine Fashion Agency)
Dipika Dave (Brot von Engeln Communications), Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (style in progress), Julian Daynov (THE Julian Daynov), Lucrezia Compagnucci (Elisa Gaito Showroom), Elisa Gaito (Owner Elisa Gaito Showroom), Nicoletta Schaper (style in progress)
Olaf Hesser (Sales Dressler), Martina Müllner (style in progress), Andreas Weitkamp (Modehaus Schnitzler, Weitkamp)
Ronald Becker (Fashion Director Playboy)
Sophie Gentil (Marketing Rossi)
Malte Kötteritz (Owner Heritage Showroom), Peter Warth (Owner Warth), Robert Röhlich (Warth), Michael Brockmann (Owner Heritage Showroom), Alvaro Zenglein (Warth)
Maximilian Rieger, Leandro Bobig (both Komet und Helden), Stephan Huber (style in progress)
Dominik Apostolopoulus, (Modehaus Hecht), Petra Graf (Fashionconsulting)
Barbara Messina (Marketing Avant Toi)
Kristina Finken (Senior Marketing Manager Dressler), Carmen Seeber (Product Manager Dressler), Claudia Jordan (style in progress)
Florian Wortmann (Creative Director Bugatti), Stephan Huber (style in progress), Julius Brinkmann (CEO Bugatti)
Tatjana Matouskova (Ragman)
Dominik Meuer (Owner Die Hinterhofagentur)
Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (sytle in progress), Andrea Di Dente, Sara Chelotti (Owner Torrefazione Chelotti)
Alessia Rizzo, Ilaria Cassone, Chiara Cecconi, Gabriele Franci (all from Creative Digital Agency)
Franz Bäumler (Designer Tom Ripley), Wolfgang Müller (Owner Tom Ripley), Alexandra Holler (Tom Ripley), Hannes Eckert (Sales Tom Ripley)
Martina Müllner (style in progress), Elisa Gaito (Elisa Gaito Showroom), Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (style in progress), Lucrezia Compagnucci (Elisa Gaito Showroom)
Johannes Strasser-Nunziati (Owner First Floor Agency), Ludovico Nees (Owner First Floor Agency), Nicoletta Schaper (style in progress), Sammy Schatten (Owner First Floor Agency)
Gianni Klemera (Owner Fattore K and K-Lab), Massimiliano Giannelli (Owner Societé Anonyme), Stephan Huber (style in progress)
Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek (style in progress), Matthias Schwarte (Owner Agentur Schwarte), Max Schwarte (Agentur Schwarte)
Janina Lange (Team Lead Marketing and PR Roy Robson)
Inspired by the dynamic everyday life of modern women, the spring/ summer 2025 collection is divided into the two lines Hiking Life and Daily Adventures and aims to bring a touch of elegance to even the busiest of days. As always, Creative Director Fabiano Ragosta skillfully plays with the jux taposition of contemporary minimalism and the timeless beauty of vintage pieces, merging past and present. Alongside casually washed-out dungarees with used effects, highlights include wide patchwork silhouettes and worker styles with double-knee attachments that are made entirely in Italy. New stretch qualities ensure perfect-fit denims that guarantee comfort and durability. A light summer vacation feeling is created thanks to cotton-linen combi nations, while technical materials such as silk cotton give even the simplest garments an elegant sartorial look thanks to new piece-dyeing techniques. www.noirandbleu.com
Stylish, casual and feminine - Noir ‘n’ Bleu intertwines a passion for fashion and a fascination for history with an unmistakable identity.
NOIR ’N’ BLEU
“WE DRESS STRONG WOMEN”
Windsor has broken new ground with the Dolder Grand capsule. A new understanding of luxury?
Jan Mangold, Managing Brand Director Windsor: No. Luxury means treating yourself to something, being a little unreasonable. But how people express this is changing. This is a capsule that celebrates fun and indulgence.
Staying true to the brand’s DNA without ageing is a challenge. How do you connect with the social media generation?
Our claim “Relaxed Tailored Luxury” is more popular than ever. We always want to turn new people into fans, with exciting events at the POS, social media campaigns and collabs like the Dolder capsule. Ideally, like this we will meet the social media generation several times over. Our growth is primarily driven by new customers. So it is working.
The image of women has changed dramatically. Genderless is a defining buzzword. For Windsor too?
The Windsor woman’s look has always been strong and self-confident. Our Dolder pajamas may be genderless, but not our ready-towear. Our understanding of fit is too perfectionist and the sexes too different for that. www.windsor.de
STRONG LOOKS: WINDSOR.
MORE SOPHISTICATED
FEEL-GOOD COLLECTION: BLOOM.
“We stand for high-quality knitwear with lots of modernity and thoughtful details,” says Cora Isabel David, Head of Design of the collection from Hamburg. For the spring/summer 2025 season, Bloom is putting this knitwear expertise to even greater use. New items include overshirts, bomber jackets, shorts as well as mini and maxi skirts in fine knitwear, which are particularly elegant and soft, in line with the brand’s philosophy. The eyecatchers in the collection? Sweaters, short jackets and shirts in a preppy style with sporty attributes. These include, for example, patch pockets, polo collars and accentuated shoulders for short styles that go perfectly with wide pants.
100% cashmere is being further expanded with hairy, fluffy knitwear in an angora look thanks to a new washing process, with many chalky shades such as off-white, ivory, silver-grey and powdery pastels. Blouses and dresses made of stretch silk with a matt sand finish are added to match the knitwear. “With mesh knitwear, we are also meeting the demand of retailers for very light, airy summer knitwear,” says Cora Isabel David. The colors in this range show consistency with white, black and sand.
www.bloom-fashion.com
Caractère is luxurious, trend-conscious and classy at the same time. Agentur SchulzAco is responsible for sales in Germany and Austria.
MASTERPIECES
“We are working hard to convey a strong, clear image of the Caractère woman who is leading a dynamic life,” says Martina Bucalo, co-owner of Caractère. “For her, elegance meets casualness in a collection in which the pieces can be interpreted and combined in different ways.”
Washed denim, silk, jersey crepe and Tencel are used as well as summery linen, voile and poplin. A Sahara jacket and a jumpsuit in a warm camel color are among the masterpieces and, like Tailleurs, speak for the brand’s tailoring expertise. Long organza skirts with expressive prints go well with blouses. The variety of dresses is particularly powerful: for example, they are long and embroidered, minimalistically sophisticated as blouse dresses or made of light crepe for summery airiness. The colors start with navy, white, grey and cream and build up to warm sand nuances and midsummer rainbow colors. www.caractere.it
CARACTÈRE
by JNBY
SENSES UNLEASHED
S“The future is omnisensoric,” Ann Berry claimed in a memorable interview in the January issue of style in progress. A hypothesis that is worth exploring in-depth. Is the loss of sensory encounters the fashion industry’s fall from grace? Have we opted for convenience over experience?
Moderated by Stephan Huber, Ann Berry and Anna Graf take us on a visionary and at the same time realistic journey into the omnisensoric future of retail in which the boundaries between the physical and the virtual are becoming increasingly blurred.
Artwork: Alexander Wells, @alexanderwells
“ PHYSICAL CONCEPT STORES STILL THRIVE BECAUSE THEY PROVIDE A TANGIBLE EXPERIENCE THAT DIGITAL WORLDS CAN’T FULLY REPLICATE YET.” ANNA GRAF
Stephan Huber: Before I dive into my questions, let me share a remarkable experience I had recently. I was in Vienna and had the opportunity to have lunch at Steirereck, one of the world’s top ten restaurants. This place is truly amazing, offering a dining experience that engages all senses at the highest level.
One course that stood out was a char dish. It began with raw fish presented in a wooden frame. They then poured over a mixture of oil and honeybee wax, heated to a specific temperature, encasing the char in this golden mixture. After exactly 10 minutes, they removed the solidified oil and beeswax, revealing the beautifully cooked fish. The dish itself was extraordinary, but the entire experience—from presentation to the final reveal—was simply unforgettable.
Ann Berry, Threadneedle founder: That sounds incredible, Stephan. It reminds me of our conversation in Dubai about the future of fashion and retail being omnisensoric.
You coined this term then. What does it truly mean? And why do you believe it’s so crucial for the future?
Ann Berry: Retail has always been inherently multisensory because it exists in the physical world. For instance, when you walk into a store, you’re immediately greeted by a carefully chosen fragrance that evokes emotions compelling enough to make you want to purchase something. Retailers have mastered the art of playing the right music to excite us and to elevate our shopping experience. Fashion, too, has always been about touch—the feel of the fabric and the texture of textiles have always been integral to the shopping experience. Sight has played a crucial role as well, from the way merchandise is displayed to the overall aesthetics of the store. So, traditionally, retail has engaged all our senses: sight, sound, touch, and smell.
However, with the advent of digital retail and omnichannel strategies, shopping has transitioned to screens—mobile devices and computers—where the sensory experience is drastically reduced. In this digital realm, we can see the product but can’t touch, smell, or taste it (though taste is more relevant to restaurants than retail stores).
When I talk about moving towards an omnisensoric retail experience, I’m suggesting a truly
holistic experience. We’re aiming to bring the rich, sensory engagement of physical stores into the digital world. Technology is paving the way for this transformation. With virtual reality, we can immerse ourselves in a simulated 3D environment. Emerging technologies are even capable of transmitting fragrances, allowing us to smell products digitally.
Thus, the future of retail lies in blending the multisensory experiences of the real world with the convenience and reach of the digital world, creating a truly omnisensoric shopping experience.
Anna, how central can digital worlds actually become? This is a major topic when discussing Web3 and its future.
Anna Graf, Innovation Lead Emerging Tech, Arvato Systems: The integration of senses in digital worlds is fascinating. We might even add artificial fragrances and tactile systems, enhancing our immersive experiences. However, the current technology, like the Apple Vision Pro, offers great visuals but lacks in social connectivity and full immersion. We’re testing more realistic avatars and improving social interactions, but we’re not quite there yet. Heiko von der Gracht, a leading futurist, suggests we need more elements to achieve true immersiveness. Presently, we mix real-life events with immersive technology, using hardware to hint at future possibilities. For example, luxury brands like Porsche create impressive virtual experiences, allowing customization of car features. However, these experiences are supplemental and not fully integrated into the purchasing process. Digital worlds can enhance our sensory experiences, but we still crave real-life connections. Physical concept stores still thrive because they provide a tangible experience that digital worlds can’t fully replicate yet. On the other hand, more traditional retail concepts like Germany’s Galleria Kaufhof are failing because they lack this immersive appeal. People now seek out comprehensive, visually rich environments.
We’re at the brink of a shift, with advancements expected in the next five years. Devices will become lighter, and companies like Meta are already introducing voice-interactive glasses, enhancing our digital experiences. This progress shows promise, and as we’ve tested together, Stephan, we’re moving closer to this immersive future.
“ENGAGED, EMPATHETIC, AND HIGHLY TRAINED STAFF ARE CRUCIAL IN CREATING THIS OMNI-SENSO- RIAL EXPERIENCE.” ANN BERRY
Ann Berry: I agree that there’s an innate human desire to be in a physical space that offers a multisensory experience. As Anna mentioned, technology is evolving to mimic physical spaces more closely, with virtual reality creating environments enhanced by fragrances and tactile sensations. Retail is lagging behind in this area, while other industries are pushing boundaries. For example, I recently saw U2 at The Sphere in Las Vegas. Just before that, I saw Madonna at Madison Square Garden. The setup was spectacular, with huge digital screens, rapid image projections, incredible lighting, and a powerful sound system. The energy of being with other fans was palpable, making it a memorable concert. However, The Sphere takes it to another level. It’s an enclosed space with digital screens wrapping around and above you, providing stunning visuals. The sound system is groundbreaking, offering an unparalleled immersive audio experience. The seats even move and vibrate in sync with the visuals, heightening the sensory impact. The Sphere blends traditional concert elements with cutting-edge technology, pushing the limits of sensory immersion. While retail has yet to fully embrace this approach, other sectors like hospitality and art are leading the way. Immersive experiences, such as the Van Gogh or Klimt exhibitions, are combining traditional art displays with digital enhancements, transforming the way we engage with art. In essence, the omnisensoric experience is evolving in both the physical and digital worlds, with various industries exploring new ways to captivate and engage audiences.
Anna Graf: We see this trend intensely in Industry 4.0. Businesses need efficient onboarding processes. If it takes a year for things to run smoothly, how can you onboard the workers who will actually be there? It’s already a constant issue. Regarding Web3, we now have physical spaces to consider. Digital technology extends these spaces, overcoming their limitations. Take Taylor Swift concerts, for example—sold out instantly. Not everyone can physically be there, not everyone can afford it, but still, they long for the experience of being close to the star. Digital solutions can offer this. For instance, with Apple Vision Pro, experiencing Alicia Keys in a private concert felt incredibly intimate, almost like standing next to her. It was surreal, but profoundly immersive. This fusion of physical and digital spaces is just the beginning. In the art world, digital
artist Refik Anadol exemplifies this blend. His work creates a dreamlike reality in physical spaces, transforming audience behavior. People in galleries experience his art as a calm, almost meditative session, unlike anything seen before. This omnisensoric experience captivates and influences human behavior in unique ways.
Ann, in September, you’ll be hosting the IGDS Summit in Berlin with the theme “Embracing Experimental Retail.” How can retail catch up? What steps can they take to speed up and provide an exciting experience across all channels?
Ann Berry: Without an emotional experience beyond just purchasing, consumers gravitate towards the convenience and cost-efficiency of online shopping. However, the high demand for concerts, major sports events, or unique dining experiences like the one you mentioned at Steirereck, proves that people are willing to pay for remarkable, memorable events. Crafting these experiences is essential for retail. Stores must offer in-store experiences so compelling that customers overlook the inconvenience and costs. This involves engaging all senses with fantastic textiles, stunning merchandise, great music, delightful scents, and even a glass of champagne. Engaged, empathetic, and highly trained staff are crucial in creating this omni-sensoric experience.
Anna Graf: Entertainment, especially gaming, is key here. Gaming appeals to Gen Z, Gen Alpha, and even older generations. It’s the ease and fun of gamified elements that can enhance our shopping experiences. While the luxury sector can afford these immersive experiences, we can bring similar elements to smaller environments using gamification and AI. AI can help personalize our shopping experience, making it more efficient and tailored. Imagine scanning your body to get the perfect fit every time, avoiding the hassle of wrong sizes. Hyper personalization can transform shopping, saving time and reducing production costs.
Oh… I tried to introduce this already before the pandemic, the ignorance was astonishing.
Anna Graf: On the one hand, the technology for personalization and virtual try-ons is really at a completely different level today than it was two
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“DIFFERENT RETAIL MODELS WILL CONTINUE TO COEXIST, FROM FAST FASHION TO LUXURY, EACH WITH ITS OWN APPROACH TO HYPERPERSONALIZATION.” ANN BERRY
or three years ago. And the fact that the fashion industry is not necessarily one of the early adopters in these areas is part of the problem.
Ann Berry: I completely agree with Anna. Personalization and sensory experiences are merging profoundly, especially in the luxury sector.
Will this development spell the end for niche markets, or could it be a unique opportunity for them to shine?
Ann Berry: That’s a really interesting question. The niche, especially in retail, has always been a sanctuary for exquisite taste and individuality, offering unique products in beautifully curated settings with a personal touch. These values are arguably more crucial now than ever in our rapidly changing competitive landscape. While adapting to new technologies might seem tough at first, it’s also a golden opportunity for innovation and growth. Smaller businesses need to stay innovative, even if the technology is expensive now. Over time, it will become more affordable and accessible.
Anna Graf: That’s exactly how I see it and I would like to emphasize that collaboration is crucial in both physical and digital realms. In the context of Web3, we must shift from a competitive mindset to a collaborative one. For instance, at the Technical University of Munich, we’re developing platforms to help small and medium-sized businesses remain competitive with the help of AI. While not everyone can afford their own large language model, pooling resources allows access to top-notch expertise.
In retail, we can draw inspiration from physical spaces and apply it digitally, and vice versa. Sharing resources can significantly enhance the shopping experience. When you’re in a niche market, your biggest competitor isn’t necessarily another nearby niche business. Most likely it’s your partner.
Ann Berry: The real-time recommendation capability online is a huge advantage for shopping. Online platforms can use algorithms to personalize recommendations in ways stores currently cannot. However, boutiques could integrate smart changing rooms with digital mirrors, offering personalized product suggestions, including items from
other brands beyond their own range. This gives boutiques a unique edge as they can offer more choice and a better shopping experience, while also providing a human touch.
But doesn’t this mean that fashion retail needs to change its model, especially online? It was all about pushing people into consumption. In the future, should it focus on helping people find exactly what they want?
Ann Berry: I think it’s the same goal, Stephan. Online retailers aim to do both – drive consumption and personalize the shopping experience. Look at companies like Shein. They offer a massive variety of products at low prices, but make it feel personalized. They’re pushing volume while also making it seem like they cater to individual tastes. Different retail models will continue to coexist, from fast fashion to luxury, each with its own approach to personalization.
I agree to some extent. My concern is that overconsumption undermines the personal and exceptional nature of fashion. Ideally, in the future, people should be encouraged to buy what they truly love.
Ann Berry: I like your idealistic point, but being a realist, I think the future will still have a wide range of retail experiences. We’ll see everything from mass-market to high-end luxury, with personalization being a key advantage across the board. Whether it’s a fast fashion brand or a luxury boutique, each will find ways to make their offerings feel personal and unique.
Makes sense. I also believe politics should ensure companies like Shein and Temu pay for their environmental and social impacts. This would make the market fairer and more sustainable.
Anna Graf: On the topic of consumption, we should also consider digital fashion. People are increasingly willing to buy digital items, like a Gucci bag in Roblox. This trend could lead to a more sustainable future where owning physical items isn’t as important. Digital fashion allows for endless creativity and personalization without the environmental impact.
“THE NICHE MUST OFFER MORE THAN JUST A PRODUCT—THEY NEED TO DELIVER AN EXPERIENCE.” ANNA GRAF
Let me come back to the IGDS summit in Berlin this September. Considering our discussion, do you think department stores, primarily focused on physical retail, can evolve into urban epicenters of an omnisensoric experience culture?
Ann Berry: Absolutely. Department stores have the potential to turn the narrative around and lead in omnisensory retail. They are already trusted curators, both online and offline, and possess the scale and financial capability to invest in cutting-edge technology. This positions them well to become theme parks of retail, especially in urban centers with high foot traffic and excellent public transportation. Department stores need to adopt a learning mindset from other industries like hospitality, music destinations, hotels, casinos, and cruise ships—industries adept at creating captivating experiences and entice people to spend once they’re on-site.
Anna Graf: Ann already mentioned her mind-blowing experience at The Sphere. There’s other examples: Disney’s evolving use of technology is a prime approach. Disney integrates advanced sensory elements without needing vast spaces, enhancing the visitor experience through innovative floors and virtual reality. Another example is HoloRide, which uses VR in cars to sync with driving movements, reducing motion sickness and enhancing the journey. These technologies are spreading into various sectors, preparing customers for their experiences long before they reach the store.
So, fashion retail needs to transition from a supply-focused model to one centered on entertainment?
Anna Graf: It’s a balance. Basic supply remains crucial, but especially the niche and luxury sectors must offer more than just a product—they need to deliver an experience. Recent moves by brands like Bumble, which emphasized returning to real-world connections, highlight the shift towards creating meaningful, memorable experiences. The younger generation, impacted by the pandemic, craves real-world interactions that combine digital and physical elements seamlessly.
So, the key to success lies in engaging as many senses as possible?
Ann Berry: Indeed. And this is about exactly what has always characterized retail: optimizing sensory elements such as music and scents to boost sales. Now, it’s about extending these principles digitally. The more senses are engaged, the more successful will the retail experience be.
A simple equation, actually... thank you both very much for this exciting exchange!
Ann Berry: Born and raised in London, Ann now resides in New York City. The first in her family to attend college, she has Filipino-English heritage and champions equal opportunities and financial inclusion. A sought-after speaker, Ann has captivated audiences in Milan, Dallas, London, San Francisco, Dana Point, and Boston with her humor and storytelling. Ann regularly appears on Bloomberg, CBS, CNBC, CNN, Fox, and Yahoo, interviewing top executives and covering hot topics from tech IPOs to global trade wars. With deep business experience, she has invested billions as a Wall Street money manager and led 5,000 employees as a corporate CEO. Ann advises C-suites as a venture capitalist, CIO, and angel investor.
As founder of Threadneedle, Ann offers strategic advisory and capital to private companies. She holds a B.A. from Cambridge and an MBA from Harvard. www.annberry.com, www.threadneedlestrategies.com @annberry_nyc, www.linkedin.com/in/annberry-nyc/
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Anna Graf is the Innovation Lead for Web3 and the Metaverse at Arvato Systems Bertelsmann, she focuses on the integration of loyalty programs, Web3 technologies, and the Metaverse within the company. She has a broad expertise in digital transformation, having previously worked as the NFT Director at Expanded.art, where she partnered with prominent artists like Refik Anadol and Jon Burgerman. Anna continues to explore art tokenization as an Advisory Board member for arttrade.io. Based in Hamburg, she actively participates in networking and education as a board member of the Hanseatic Blockchain Institute and lends her knowledge to the Foundation Metaverse Europe, contributing to future recommendations on these emerging technologies. @the_annagraf, www.linkedin.com/in/anna-graf90/
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Easy Everyday Chic: Nineto9 convinces with outstanding wearing properties. Soft, smooth and easy to care for.
jersey fabric that fully reflects the label’s easy-to-wear philosophy. Made for women who know no boundaries in their lives: where work and leisure
Hoferer, “but that’s exactly what Nineto9 is: even the blazers are washable at home. Hang it up, wear it again, Nineto9 is the backbone of a wardrobe. For spring/summer, we have expanded dresses that can always be added to. Whether it’s a jacket or blazer, all pieces can be combined with each other and with previous seasons.” Exclusively solid colors, black, white, plus navy to cream or pink, “all colors that support the beauty of women and bring calm and class to an outfit,” says Marion Hoferer. Production takes place in Europe, deliveries are traditionally made early and Modeist is always open to special editions with retailers. www.modeist.com
BACK TO THE ROOTS
PEOPLE OF SHIBUYA
What are the highlights of the spring/summer 2025 collection?
Alberto Premi, Creative Director People of Shibuya: The new creative team has gone back to the origins of the brand. We have refined the logo, used a new color, Avio, and renewed the labeling on all garments. This new direction aims to convey an innovative lifestyle and develop total looks within the collection. What inspired you?
The main inspiration is Tokyo. We focused on a detailed aesthetic and the meticulousness of Japanese culture. What are the most important innovations?
We have reissued 25 percent of our bestsellers from last year. The collection can be divided into five color worlds. Chalk tones are for travel wear; navy blue unites all the new designs; Avio offers hybrid models with ultra-light padding and jersey; military green and sage for models made of cotton, linen and nylon that are suitable for summer. There are vests, short jackets and trench coats for each theme.
peopleofshibuya.com
Tokyo as inspiration for clean lines and an unagitated total look with chalk tones for travelers and blue for the new items in the collection.
CREATING AN IDENTITY
The collection is characterized by a sophisticated, luxurious style, structured in three menswear lines: Blue is maritime-inspired, with high-quality, functional materials in casual cuts. Main brings essentials and outfits for leisure time, with a variety of blousons in a mix of materials and designs that are worth a second glance. Navy and camel meet modern sea green and clay. The third line is Gold, classy and fashionable, with high-quality materials and sophisticated details. The highlight is a suit made from particularly fine new wool, which combines style and comfort at a high level. Pants, shirts, polo shirts, hoodies and knitwear harmoniously complete the Bugatti world. And womenswear? It playfully picks up on the elements of menswear and varies modern silhouettes in shades of blue, off-white, cognac and camel: wide pants with short blouses, boxy jackets and airy shirt dresses. Innovative materials such as bouclé, summer wool and neoprene make a statement, as do feminine jacquard prints. www.bugatti-fashion.com
BUGATTI CREATES A WORLD OF ITS OWN WITH HIGH-QUALITY DESIGNS AND HARMONIOUS COLORS.
BUGATTI
A new take: Floral paisley pattern in an elegant cream shade combined with deep black.
NEW STYLES
Timeless color combinations radiate elegance and impress with their sophisticated feel and the matt sheen of the fabrics.
The summer theme Golden Overcast of the Sportalm Ulli Ehrlich line for spring/summer 2025 combines sporty influences with feminine elegance in a modern way. The designer contrasts sporty masculinity with a world of floral prints, whether all-over prints or detached paisley elements. These are implemented in a modern way with new puffy techniques or embossed looks. The unique mix of materials ranges from technostretch, scuba qualities or textured haptics such as an innovative floral jacquard and 3D-embossed nylon to bouclés with a metallic look and matt-gloss surfaces. Highlights include elegant cream shades harmoniously combined with various romantic red tones or eye-catching, flashy hot pink. Neutral dark nuances or sporty deep black in a matt sheen round off the color world and give the theme a contemporary feel.
THE MANGROVE COLLECTION
KEELING
Sustainability is a key aspect of the new complete look line from Italy. The sale of every Keeling item supports the expansion of mangrove forests with the help of a B-Corp-certified reforestation project that protects both salt and freshwater ecosystems in Guatemala. Keeling’s signature wash-out effects are created using molecular piece dyeing technology, which saves 95% water and 92% electricity throughout the dyeing process. This season’s designs are inspired by textures from the sea and the rainforest. Dozens of unique designs that reflect the color nuances of the jungle and the ocean are a testament to the love of nature. The collection includes knits, sweats, jerseys, pants and jackets with a three-piece calculation. Distribution for the D-A-CH region is handled by Die Hinterhofagentur from Munich. @keeling.io
You’ve been CEO of the Swiss company Ragtex AG and the Ragman brand for twelve months now. What has happened in that time?
Markus Holas, Managing Director of Ragtex: In order to achieve our planned sales growth, we have made some significant adjustments. The site was relocated to Uster to our own premises, Villa Ragman, staff were increased and the sales structures in Switzerland and abroad were adapted. We have supported and expanded our production partners worldwide. Sustainability is increasingly being implemented in the collection; since 2024, we are allowed to carry the “Fair Trade Peru” label. In addition to Thylie, our constantly growing premium women’s wear brand, we are further expanding the collection of proven Easy Care Softknit quality to fashionable target groups.
So Ragman is being positioned more boldly? Ragman continues to focus on men as a loyal target group, but also on their sons. We are combining the casualness of proven Easy Care qualities with the demands of today’s boys. This means a new casualness for spring/summer 2025.
Yes, sporty elegance in bold colors and a dolce vita feeling in harmonious color gradations with new prints. www.ragman.de
BASIC WAS YESTERDAY
RAGMAN
WANT IT
HYGGE
ANNE VEST What do Nordic art, food and nature have in common? They inspire designer Anne Vestesen to create her collection. The Danish designer has been creating the highly fashionable Anne Vest lambskin collection for over a decade now. Fun fact: she selects the skins depending on how much stability she wants the jackets to have. Icelandic sheep for oversized biker models, butter-soft skins from South Africa for long, flowing coats. The designer is present in summer, too, with a feel-good collection that translates hygge in a very feminine way. Purchase prices range from 60 Euros for a hat to 1,100 Euros for a long vest. www.annevest.dk @_annevest_
THE POWER OF FRAGRANCE EQUALITY FRAGRANCES
The perfume house was founded in 2019 by Lukas Görlitz and Basti Fischer. Fragrance has the unique power to trigger memories and influence actions. Their gender-neutral perfumes are associated with a statement on tolerance and an approach for a clear, modern value system and social change. All fragrances are produced in Germany with high-quality ingredients and in compliance with IFRA guidelines. Together with the NGO International Justice Mission, the creators are fighting the sexual exploitation of children on the internet in the Philippines. Ten percent of the profits are donated to the psychological treatment of abused children.
www.equalityfragrances.com
(DYS-) FUNCTIONAL FUSION
POST STUDIOS
After the B2B premiere at Seek, the Berlin label with its compact collection soon followed up with a launch event at the Superconscious Store. Post Studios combines streetwear with high-fashion elements and multifunctional cuts. The collection is inspired by a crossover attitude in which practical outdoor textiles meet urban chic. With his line, founder Collins Folarin aims to create a new dimension of fashion that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, perfectly suited to a world that is often perceived as dysfunctional. At the same time, he invites people to become part of a vibrant community. www.post-studios.com
SIMPLICITY
ZENGGI She has found her style and designs for women who can say the same about themselves. Marian Wigger is the woman behind Zenggi. Does the name ring a bell? Yes, she was the designer behind Turnover. Her stylistic signature is refined and has matured. A wardrobe in which each piece fits perfectly to the next, with the aim of being well-dressed without any morning headaches in front of the wardrobe. Zenggi is mainly produced in Europe and scores with a consistent 2.75 calculation. The collection also includes trans-seasonal pieces that guarantee recognizability. www.zenggi.com
STATEMENTS
SAINT SASS
The Berlin-based tights label by Vivien Wysocki and Larissa Schmid stands for a life full of contrasts, independence, self-confidence, effortless elegance and self-determination - always with a pinch of humor. Made for women who don’t want to be pigeonholed. For women who enjoy reinventing themselves every day and who love contrasts. With interwoven statements such as “Not Your Babe, The Future is Female”, female independence and the self-ironic courage of women are expressed. The garments are made in Germany and Italy from a particularly robust yarn, which makes them circulation-enhancing, similar to thrombosis stockings. www.saintsass.com
NO PASSING TRENDS
ZONA20 MILANO
With their label Zona20 Milano, the Wang sisters want to redefine fashion. They break traditional norms with their gender-neutral collections and invite people to be bold and self-confident. Geometric lines transform garments into canvases for personal expression, perfecting the connection between casual looks and wearable art. Zona20 Milano is more than a fashion label. It is a community that promotes inclusivity and creativity, bringing together people from different backgrounds while placing a strong focus on sustainability. Distributed through Elisa Gaito in Milan. www.zona20milano.it, @ zona20milano
SIZZLING SUMMER STRIPES
WOTE Moving away from fast fashion and towards real favorites: the fashion start-up from Würzburg focuses on sustainability, scores points with seasonal themes and constantly reinterprets organic cotton. Purchase prices start at 19 Euros for T-shirts and tank tops. Wote is available via their online store and in selected concept stores. Distribution is handled by the brand itself.
the-wote.com, @the.wote
BATHING IN WOOL COZY VAN DORLE
FAMILY BUSINESS
TORREFAZIONE CHELOTTI
The former head of online at German Vogue, Doris Huber, knows the feeling from her childhood: in her father’s traditional knitting business, a master knitter, she used to bathe in mountains of balls of wool. Now the neo-fashion entrepreneur and coach wanted a jacket that would envelop her in this coziness and fit everything from pyjamas to evening dresses - and not just women. Cozy van Dorle was born as a unisex brand, a mono-product in a luxurious volume, with retail prices between 499 and 539 Euros. Selective expansion of the distribution network is now beginning. Five basic colors, warm, washable, versatile - and dedicated to the beloved dad! doris@ cozy-van-dorle.com
Coffee made from the best beans in the world, traditionally produced by hand, is a matter of pride for the Chelottis. Father Lauro learned the art of coffee roasting from his mentor Giovanni Maraviglia and passed this knowledge on to his daughters Sara and Martina. The special thing: “We have retained the traditional method of wood roasting over an open flame. This takes around 20 minutes, depending on the type of coffee, but adds unique aromas and flavors. The use of oak wood is crucial here. Wood roasting takes more time and is more expensive, but it ensures superior quality,” explain the sisters. www. chelotticaffe.com
MADE IN GERMANY
ELENA NANCU
Founded in 2009 by designer Elena Nancu, the collection offers timelessly elegant fashion for women who value long-lasting quality. Each item of clothing is handmade in Germany and is crafted from natural materials such as merino wool, silk, cashmere and linen. The collection comprises around 50 styles and is available in sizes 34 to 42. The retail prices in summer: blazers 690 to 890, pants 350 to 495 and tops/blouses 195 to 345 Euros. Sustainability is a core principle, as demonstrated by a lifetime guarantee with free repairs. The collections are available in the D-A-CH region via Collective Fashion Agency, which has showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. @elena_nancu
INDIAN GLAMOUR
FALGUNI SHANE
PEACOCK In India, this couple is almost as famous as the Bollywood and international stars that they dress. Anyone who is anyone gets married in couture by designer Falguni and her husband Shane Peacock (yes, that are actually their names). Richly decorated with pearl sequins, glitter, feathers and patterns, each gown is an artistic dream! The Ready-to-Wear line, which will be shown during New York Fashion Week, offers a scaled-back version. Dresses and matching sets with floral or ornamental prints, modern and priced in the contemporary segment. Distribution is handled by SASAtrend; Agentur Prins-Juric is responsible for the D-A-CH region. A guaranteed wow effect! @falgunishanepeacock.nyc
FATTO A MANO LEDAF
A studio in Lecce, Italy, is the place where accessory marvels are created. LeDaf is the name of Fernando Pertuzzo’s collection. The central element is the clip fastener, which is handturned in Tuscany, just like the handles of the bags. Everything else is also made in this paradise. The bodies of the bags are made from leather, canvas, terrycloth or, currently in great demand, raffia, in a wide range of colors and variations. Antones GmbH has taken over distribution from Sarah Freise in Königsstein, Germany. The bags have a purchase price between 43 and 130 Euros and will be on display in the showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich, as well as at Supreme in both cities. www.antones.de @le.daf_
new
power
Is the image of women changing? Absolutely, and this manifests itself most clearly in casual, effortless, no less strong looks in womenswear. Brands with character are making just as much of a statement by showing personal responsibility and focusing on values that go beyond the product. In this way, they create identity without imposing a certain imageand thus correspond infinitely more with how modern women see themselves.
She loves a deep dive: Sofie D’Hoore launched her eponymous collection in 1992.
SOFIE D’HOORE
“MY FASHION EXPRESSES FREEDOM”
Sofie D’Hoore may well be the secret star of quiet luxury. Pureness and elegance have always been the Belgian’s inner compass for her collection, and she is gaining increasing international recognition. Is this indicative of her style reflecting the new, more self-determined image of women?
Sofie, it feels like the last few years in particular have brought more attention and recognition to your brand. What do you think has changed: the market and culture, or the collection?
Sofie D’Hoore, owner of Sofie D’Hoore: I would argue that we have continued to develop in the spirit of slow evolution and fortunately, even during the pandemic years, did not suffer too much in terms of declining sales. Recognition for the collection has grown slowly but steadily over the years, not least in markets such as the US, Japan, and South Korea, which makes me very happy! This is certainly a result of being represented in great stores there, such as A’maree’s and La Garçonne in the US, BShop and Bianca Brillante in Japan, and Beaker in South Korea.
We are witnessing a new self-perception among women, which is also evident in their fashion. To what extent does Sofie D’Hoore’s success reflect this changing image of women?
I actually always applied my personal style to the collection: feminine-androgynous, sophisticated, and as
functional as possible. It seems these attributes appeal to women more than ever today. However, I also believe that we are all looking for more stability in a generally turbulent global situation. This suits my fashion because it is timeless and meets high quality standards. Are brand values more relevant today? Is the era of quiet luxury the era of smaller brands?
Yes, people are more aware of what is happening in the world and are also expressing their opinions in their consumption, as I hear in many conversations with my customers. Our collection is not loud, we tend to fly under the radar, and I would not want to equate myself with the big quiet luxury brands, as I lack the opportunities to do so anyway. Yet I love the fact that women who wear my fashion enrich it with their personality and make it their own. I have no desire to impose my image on anyone. Are modern women really less dependent on pleasing men?
Yes, modern women feel much freer! I grew up in a very traditional family, where my father worked hard while my mother was the typical devoted homemaker who kept the house perfectly clean and brought up the children well. I did not like that setup at all and strove to be independent from an early age. I value freedom above all else, be it in terms of style, beauty, or space. I intuitively design collections that express this freedom and allow the wearer scope – for example by playing with volume, or by ensuring that the pieces can be worn in different ways, sometimes fitted at the waist or casually oversized. By
freedom, I also mean that you can wash the pieces often, which makes them all the more beautiful. For me, this is easy-to-wear in the truest sense of the term. Are seasons a thing of the past?
Fashion should be utterly timeless! This materialistic approach of always chasing trends is definitely a relic of the past. In today’s world, we have to think differently. That does not mean that fashion needs to become more classic, not at all! Rather, it means that we designers should think differently and approach our collections differently.
As in your example?
It starts with the material. We dedicate three months to researching each new collection, which is the amount of time we need. Out of 1,000 fabric samples, we are ultimately left with ten. I love discovering fabrics and never miss a stand at trade fairs to make sure I miss nothing. For me, the most modern materials are cotton and wool, which have been treated without chemicals, like in the old days. This throwback approach is very much in keeping with the times – people are realising that we need to return to this mindset. Our production reflects this, too. We manufacture in Portugal and Italy to minimize distances and strive for the highest possible quality in our workmanship. We take the same care with the outside and inside of our pieces. For example, the seams are triple stitched for even greater durability.
How do you manage not to overshoot the mark despite your success?
We are a small organisation with 20 employees. The prototypes are created here in-house, and I work very closely with our three modellers. I feel great when I can delve deep into something; superficiality makes me unhappy. Chantal Spaas, who is responsible for international sales, is just as down-to-earth, meaning we complement each other well. There is no question of us expanding, as our organic way of functioning is part of our success. We are currently experiencing a globally challenging economic situation that is putting retailers under pressure. Do some retailers occasionally ask to change the collection because they think it would sell better? It may seem strange, but we are not approached with such requests – with the exception of Japan and South Korea, where people are generally smaller, and we added a size 32 at the request of retailers. Basically, Sofie D’Hoore is a niche collection that is not designed for everyone. Yet it speaks a language that is primarily understood by independent women with their own personality. Fortunately, such women can be found all over the world. Thank you very much for the interview!
Sofie D’Hoore represents luxurious easy-to-wear that is not limited to any particular season. It is characterised by its interplay of volumes and the fact that the pieces can be worn in different combinations.
campaign agencies showrooms
Dušan is a prototype for the new womenswear, which charges minimalist elegance with new modernity.
CONFIDENCE!
Is this the dawn of a new era? One thing is certain: the way women perceive themselves is changing. A shift towards more self-determination is reflected in their fashion, as well as in the communication and visual language of brands. What's behind it all?
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
Sarah Richardson, former Fashion Creative Director of Document Journal, is demonstrating her feel for the zeitgeist by launching the new Beyond Noise format. She hopes to do nothing less than modernize the traditional women’s magazine, going beyond the ever-same content such as fashion, beauty, social affairs, and celebrity news. After all, the London stylist claims: “The modern woman is so much more than that.”
The fact that the image of women is evolving is particularly evident in fashion. The looks
express confidence and substance. Instead of indulging in bohemian romanticism or following the same old sexy female cliché, they respond with minimalist elegance, understatement, and coolness from the sportswear sector. The Row shows oversized and gender fluid fashion, The Frankie Shop offers broad-shouldered blazers, Plan-C plays with geometric shapes, and Sofie D’Hoore is androgynous and sophisticated. These wow looks are highly casual and, at the same time, demonstrate functionality and pragmatism. “Given the hectic pace of modern life, we are more casual, comfortable, and self-determined in what we wear,” says Floor founder Daniela Cipolli. “We
wish to be well-dressed from the morning at work to the evening aperitif, without having to change outfits.”
Ready-to-wear is also undergoing a necessary makeover. The usual classics are still frequently reprised in the tried-and-tested canon of shapes, but tailoring definitely looks more modern when strict contours are blurred, for example through layering, new cuts, and flowing materials by Carven, Givenchy, and Forte Forte, or by street and workwear elements at Fendi. This casually redefines sexiness: Fashion is ultimately much more sexy by brain than sexy by body.
Cool understatement! The looks correspond to self-determined women in their nonchalance.
From left to right: Drykorn, Circolo 1901, Fendi, Joop, Less, Windsor
MINDSET
The key term is Quiet Luxury for fashion that is as timeless as possible and uncompromisingly high-quality at the high end of the market. The meaning of luxury has evolved: away from lavish opulence and towards a greater appreciation of nature and its limited resources. Accordingly, fashion brands are exhibiting more attitude. One example is the sustainable brand Another Tomorrow by Vanessa Barboni Hallik, which now has Angelina Jolie on board as a strategic advisor – a commitment to a brand that addresses its target group with clear imagery and transparent content, showing that it takes them seriously. “Sustainability is defined as meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future
generations to meet their own needs,” the label states. “Based on the climate in which we currently find ourselves – both politically and environmentally – for us this means meeting the needs of today, while laying the foundation for another tomorrow.”
The trend points towards responsible and conscious consumption, with smaller collections. Seafarer, for example, is conceived with statement pieces, classics, and essentials that are easy to combine in order to adapt to the lives of modern women, rather than the other way round. Fewer pieces – yet exactly the right ones – are designed to simplify life and decisions for consumers. This is easy-to-wear in the truest spirit of the term.
BY WOMEN, FOR WOMEN?
Given that this new fashion is now more tailored to women, is it also being created by more women? Women still remain underrepresented as fashion designers. According to McKinsey, less than 50 percent of all garments were designed by women in 2018, and only 14 percent of the top management positions at major fashion houses are held by women. Figures that are unlikely to have changed significantly since then. All the more celebrated are women like Miucca Prada and Phoebe Philo, whose coveted personalities come close to that of Jil Sander. Like Louise Trotter for Carven and Sofie D’Hoore, they are identification figures and role models for future generations of female designers.
Timeless and contemporary: the looks are no longer designed for special occasions, but can be worn in a variety of ways. From left to right: Plan C, Cruna, Liviana Conti, Christian Wijnants, Rossi
SCAN CODE TO VIEW THE LOOKBOOK
PERSONALITY
In a complex, increasingly data-driven world, identification and personality are more important than ever. The visual language of strong womenswear brands focuses on women with character, which reveals itself all the more as they gain greater life experience. The comeback of supermodels from the 1990s is just one of many examples: Isabella Rosselini’s celebrated appearance for Pucci, Christy Turlington at Ralph Lauren, and Maggie Smith for Loewe. The message resonates with a broad consensus: wow, these women are cool! Brands like Twinset also benefit from Sienna Miller in their campaign. Yes, fashion visualizes dreams, but it now also paints a multi-layered and more realistic picture of women.
PURCHASING POWER
It is therefore only logical to address the older target group. “Gen X and the Baby Boomers wield the real purchasing power, not the next generation,” the trade magazine BoF headlined. “It is not the 20-year-olds, but women aged between 45 and 65 who are at the pinnacle of their purchasing power and who often take more time off work at this age, which gives them all the more time to shop.” Other women in this age bracket are relaunching their careers, perhaps because the children have left home, and desire day-to-day womenswear that is versatile and with which they can identify. The majority of customers at the Mix stores in Mantua and Salò are also aged 45 and over. “These women have discovered their
identity and appreciate fashion that is not loud – away from logos, towards high-quality, natural materials and a look that radiates calm and serenity,” says Morena Gandini, who stocks brands such as The Row, Margiela Maison, Sportmax, and Marni. These are women whose identity minimalist womenswear emphasises, rather than imposing a different identity on them. Perhaps they have emancipated themselves from the one-dimensional concept of beauty that fashion has propagated without reflection for so long. After all, it has become abundantly clear that breaking down these boundaries not only means freedom, but also unleashes new creativity.
Reduced to the essentials: Quiet Luxury also shows the longing for longevity and responsible consumption.
From left to right: The Loom, niLuu, Windsor, Valentine Witmeur, Fendi, Forte Forte
“WE
SHOW WHAT EXCITES US”
A fashion store as a flexible space featuring womenswear that reflects the lives of its customers: Helen Hüsken has created a contemporary concept in her new Bielefeld store. Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Aimilia Theofilopoulos für Hüsken
Helen, what are the thoughts behind the new store?
Helen Hüsken, Managing Director of Hüsken Studio: The idea is to show what really excites us: contemporary womenswear with modern coolness, such as the unisex looks of Ami Paris and Studio Seidensticker. We add a French twist with smaller Parisian atelier collections. Yet we deliberately refrain from following a rigid concept for the studio.
Meaning?
We wish to remain flexible, especially in uncertain times. We will experiment a lot with what is well-received and also use the space as a pop-up. A recent
example of the latter is our collaboration with Jacquemus, which we are launching in Bielefeld before presenting it in our fashion store directly opposite. The studio allows us to show luxury brands in a new context, such as the Patou collection, which appeals to me greatly with its clear design language and playful details.
The womenswear in your store represents a new, more self-determined image of modern women, correct?
Yes, absolutely! Bielefeld is an industrial hub with companies that employ many women who desire excellent clothes. I, too, enjoy working hard and wish to be well-dressed at all times. I occasionally miss the fashion that fulfils this requirement. Too many collections are still conceived for specific occasions, while workwear for women is still often translated as form-fitting ready-to-wear clothing. Fashion needs to be as versatile as needed to reflect the lives of modern women. That is why I am planning my own collection with my sister Hannah Hüsken for Hüsken Studio and our web shop, featuring high-quality basics in understated colors that remain affordable. I believe that is exactly what the market lacks.
With Hüsken Studio, Helen Hüsken is realizing her own project within the family business.
Perfumer Geza Schön is among the best fragrance developers worldwide, having created scents for many well-known brands and fashion labels. Escentric Molecules, his proprietary brand, celebrates its 20th anniversary next year. The company is currently realigning its sales activities in German-speaking countries with a focus on innovative concept stores, owner-managed fashion stores, and perfumeries specialising in niche fragrances.
Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.
ESCENTRIC MOLECULES
DANCE OF THE MOLECULES
Kate Moss is considered an early fan, Lionel Messi is an avowed customer, and Escentric Molecules has been a constant feature in the Harvey Nichols range since its wholesale launch in 2005. It all began with Molecule 01, which is based on the synthetic fragrance Iso E Super. This light fragrance is characterised by a velvety, warm wooden note with a minimalist approach and a radical ingredient concept within the beauty industry: a perfume that is
not really a perfume, with only one raw material as an ingredient. “This synthetic molecule has been proven to dock onto pheromone receptors in humans, creating a physical attraction,” explains Geza Schön. The unisex eau de toilette, which comes in a classic flat bottle of 100 millilitres, is now sold in 80 countries. The brand is headquartered in London and also manufactures in the UK. The Molecules series comprises five variants, as does the Escen-
In search of innovative retail partners: Thorsten Biehl, Geza Schön and Christian Ast (from left to right).
Photos: Anatol Kotte, Manufacturer
tric series. Launched in 2021, the M+ series comprises six fragrances, each of which adds another raw material to the Molecule 01 base: iris, ginger, patchouli, mandarin, black tea, and guaiac wood.
CONNECTIVITY AND CONTRIBUTION
“While conventional perfumes usually feature between 30 and 150 raw materials, the Molecule series utilises just one. There are many people who appreciate exactly that,” smiles Thorsten Biehl, Managing Director of WBAB GmbH, the firm responsible for sales and logistics in the DACH region with
a warehouse in Berlin. “Our focus lies on connectivity and contribution, and we are constantly looking for the right partners to grow organically. Proximity to our partners and a lively dialogue are just as important to us as being accessible for consumers. This also applies to our strategy in the premium segment of serving the entry-level price range,” adds Christian Ast, Commercial Director of WBAB. Retail prices range from 140 to 155 Euros. Current partners include Apropos, Andreas Murkudis, Amicis, Fifty Eights, Hasardeur, Hayashi, Illum, Ludwig Beck, Lodenfrey, and Selfridges.
In preparation for the 2025 anniversary, a retail marketing tour covering the DACH region is about to begin this year, starting with a series of consumer events at existing customers, followed by pop-up stores and redesigned soft shops. The recently expanded body wash range has just been supplemented with a functionally matching body lotion range. A new addition is the introduction of the Atomiser 3-set series with sprays, 8.5 millilitres in 16 different colours. The brand is still on the lookout for suitable retail partners in many cities and holiday regions in Austria and Switzerland.
The Atomiser 3-set series is a brand-new addition.
Escentric Molecules is now available in 16 varieties, divided into three series.
OIO LAB
“I
LOVE SCIENCE!”
With Oio Lab, Joanna Ryglewicz has created a compact clean beauty sensation that combines the best of two worlds: nature and technology. In an interview with style in progress editor-in-chief Stephan Huber, she explains her success formula. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Oio Lab
In short, with Oio Lab you are a lateral entrant and founder of a sensationally successful clean beauty product. Tell us the long version.
Joanna Ryglewicz, founder of Oio Lab: Initially, I aspired to be a lawyer and studied British and international law in London. After ten years of law school, I returned to Poland and worked in a few law firms until I realised that I actually disliked the job! (laughs) However, I have always harbored a passion for the beauty industry, which is why I came up with the idea of selling some products that are not available in Poland via eBay. This turned out to be rather complicated, however. In 2009, I came across the pharmaceutical brand Laboratoires Embryolisse at London Fashion Week and began marketing it in Poland, and later across Europe, in 2011. We started with 20 products in Poland, and the company is now very successful on a global scale. In the meantime, I was developing ideas for my own beauty label. It was difficult, however, to find a producer willing to work with a small customer – until I finally found the right fit. I have to admit that I am not an easy customer and refuse to accept just anything.
Is it because you already had a clear vision of clean beauty and your product?
Yes, I simply followed my heart, without any market analysis, and asked plenty of questions. This one company helped with the first batch, but would not work with us beyond that. They had also laid off the chemist who had assisted us in the development and who shared my passion for the product. So, I hired her, and my friend and sister-in-law, who has a PhD in chemistry. I rented a room for my own lab and purchased our first machine. Since then, we have been growing steadily, buying new machines and recruiting new staff. Today, our production is GMP-certified and also FDA-certified.
At this point, your legal background started to pay off, correct?
Yes, my legal background is really helpful, especially when it comes to ingredients and regulations in different countries. Clean beauty has become an inflationary buzzword. How do you define the term? I agree. Clean beauty has somehow evolved into a term that suggests purity and efforts to save the world. To me, clean beauty means that we use ingredients that are scrutinised at every stage of the supply chain. We never use preservatives or synthetic substances, and we know exactly where our ingredients originate. We collaborate with medical universities to ensure full control over the entire process. You also focus on giving thought to the product right down to the packaging. Yes, we use FSC-certified paper and biophotonic glass to preserve our high-quality
ingredients inside. We also team up with many charity organisations, for example to plant biodiverse forests and help clean up the Baltic Sea.
Do you think it makes a difference that your company is female-orientated?
Yes, because women do not act from a position of power. However, I never deliberately planned to run a female-owned company. Rather, it developed that way because I encountered such talented women. Our team now also includes two men, which adds a different, positive energy. In managing the company, I attach great importance to not being afraid of change and utilising new technologies. Flexibility is very important for our business.
Interesting, because many people think that clean beauty means that everything has to be natural and handmade.
I reckon it would be pretty crazy to neglect science, because our products should not only be natural, but also have an effect.
The hype surrounding clean beauty can be compared to the boom of the organic concept. Why do you think it has gained so much momentum?
People are more aware of what they are putting into their bodies. It is a new standard of living that combines the wisdom and power of nature with new technology. It also implies a new understanding of luxury.
This is why so many new brands are joining the market. What role does Oio Lab play in this competitive environment? What is your USP?
As a small company, we take the initiative to research the ingredients in detail with many tests. We rely on data supplied by excellent partners. This means that we not only act intuitively, but also utilise a great deal of research. Our three chemists in the laboratory have developed a unique preservation technology based exclusively on plant-derived substances. Poland seems like a good country to start a company like yours, right?
Yes, Poland produces for many large international companies. The new generation in Poland now also has the courage to say what they think out loud and develop their own ideas. Moreover, we boast a high standard of education, especially in natural sciences. As in other Eastern European countries, it is completely normal for women to work in science.
For me personally, it was important in terms of development to first de-programme the mind from what we had been programmed to do all our lives, in order to gain own experiences and learn from them. I love data, and I love science!
I feel the same way! What are your next steps?
We intend to open our laboratory to newcomers and are now capable of producing skincare, haircare, and nutritional supplements for young start-ups who share our values and and wish to start their own journey into the realm of clean beauty. Our database of over 10,000 natural ingredients, which are EcoCert and Cosmos certified, is a great resource, and the start-ups benefit from the knowledge we have already acquired.
What does the future hold for the Oio Lab brand?
We strive to continue our growth journey and develop new products. We never set ourselves rigid targets to allow everything to unfold naturally. Oio Lab remains an experimental space, according to our own subjective standards, which are much higher than those of the EU. www.oiolab.co
Oio Lab harnesses the best of nature in a high-tech process.
The IGDS World Department Store Summit is the annual get-together of CEOs and senior executives from leading department stores, brands and business partners.
The two-day in-person Summit is an exceptional platform to exchange important experiences and network with peers from around the world.
The 15th IGDS WDSS will cover the industry’s most prominent topics, including how to build customer traffic on all channels and increasing conversion rates; strengthening store brand and reputation; transitioning from conventional to progressive retail strategies; building collaborative leadership and teams.
The cosmetics line Biancamore, which harnesses the natural power of buffalo milk, is developed in Paestum near Naples. Founder Daniela Senatore discovered the regenerative properties of buffalo milk baths during her pregnancy and decided to share this ancient remedy, along with the associated rituals, with the world. In collaboration with her brother Pasquale and the Barlotti family, experts in buffalo breeding, she devised a unique skincare formula. From face creams to body lotion and haircare, Biancamore promises to make the beneficial properties accessible to all customers. www.biancamore.it, @biancamore_skincare
Psophía ARTFULLY INDIVIDUAL
The “P” in Psophía represents former Hoss Intropia designer Paloma Vázquez de Castro. Her creations fuse architectural silhouettes with extravagant details. The Spanish designer advocates a return to pieces that combine craftsmanship, high-quality materials, sophisticated design, and a modern fit – away from the mainstream towards artful, feminine, individual. The collection is available, among others, at Corso Como 10, Pauw, Moosbrugger and Amicis, and marketed by Elisa Gaito in Milan. www.psophia.com, @psophia_official
Jucca ACCESSIBLE
Lorella, do you consider Jucca an Italian or a European brand?
Lorella Manicardi, designer Jucca: The collection is Italian in its aesthetics, attention to detail, and craftsmanship. The vision, however, is European, featuring a versatile style for everyday life that is appreciated and understood by women all over the world. Many premium brands have become expensive. How does Jucca maintain affordability?
By ensuring we remain competitive with core retail prices between 200 and 500 Euros. We succeed in doing so by finding the right producer without compromising on quality, and by constantly optimising our distribution chain. Our brand should be widely accessible.
Also in terms of age?
Yes, Jucca appeals to women from 18 to 80. The styles are both fashionable and timeless and we offer plenty of style options for women of different body shapes. We wish to make them feel confident and encourage them to express their personality –without any restrictions.
Biancamore MILKY
Daniele Fiesoli Italia FEMININELY CONFIDENT
Daniele, your label is renowned for men’s knitwear. What motivated you to create the Collezione N_01 womenswear collection?
Daniele Fiesoli, CEO & Creative Director of Daniele Fiesoli Italia:
The sketches had been in my drawer for a while, and after the pandemic I finally went for it. We are now presenting our sixth collection. It was a natural step for us to creatively transfer all our skills in men’s fashion to womenswear.
How would you describe the style?
We combine generous knit volumes with flowing cuts in skirts, trousers, and dresses made of high-quality materials. Our collection epitomizes a confident, feminine aesthetic for everyday wear.
Which challenges did you encounter while developing the womenswear collection?
We have a reputation for quality, and I particularly enjoyed combining this with the fashion level of womenswear. We love working on every detail, no matter how small, because in the end these little innovations are what inspire customers.
Batakovic Belgrade MULTIFACETED
Created in Belgrade, the brand redefines luxury by fusing exquisite design and comfort. Rooted in the values of courage, family, and passion, designer and founder Ivana Micić’s label is not only committed to quality, but also to the comfort of its wearers, who are meant to feel strong and affirmed in their femininity in her collections. This successful blend of unusual aesthetics and timeless elegance allows the Serbian brand to achieve the impossible: Looks that are suitable for both the office and a cocktail party – multifaceted and luxurious. batakovic.com, @batakovicbelgrade
Daniele Fiesoli’s dream come true: The Collezione N_01 womenswear collection.
“Traditional role models are obsolete.”
– Anke Ratzsch
Joop Jeans Women “WE ARE PROUD OF OUR HERITAGE”
The relaunched Joop Jeans Women collection is described as younger and cheekier, with a cool sexiness. Does this reflect modern women?
Anke Ratzsch, Brand Director Joop Jeans Women: Yes, women are presenting themselves very differently than before. Revolutionary changes in society, such as those brought about by the pandemic, have contributed to this, not least by further fuelling social media. It had an impact on the self-presentation of women, who are now more in touch with themselves and have the courage to express this with their fashion.
What remains of the cult character of Joop jeans? What needs to be new?
What would a pair of jeans be without its heritage, as shown in the authentic denim, the wash, or the use of rivets? This is what Joop Jeans Women represents, as well as a certain logomania in blue, white, and red. We are proud of our heritage! At the same time, we have expanded the variety with new, fashionable fits to suit the most diverse types of women.
How significant is the new line within Joop?
With the relaunch of womenswear in 2020, we created the counterpart to menswear and filled the last gap in our house with Joop Jeans Women. The aim is for womenswear to be just as successful as Joop Men. The potential is enormous: jeans epitomise the casualness that defines fashion today. Besides, nine out of ten women have at least one pair of jeans in their wardrobe –and often want more! www.joop.com
THE NEW CLASSIC
Established in 2019 by Cristina Parodi and Daniela Palazzi, the label epitomises understated elegance and Italian craftsmanship. Manufactured in Bergamo, the collection requires no transport and celebrates classic style with a modern twist. Cristina, a journalist and TV presenter, and Daniela, a PR expert and stylist, on their Made in Italy collection: “The greatest inspirations come to us collectively, somewhere between everyday challenges and dreams.” Crida Milano, marketed by Elisa Gaito in Milan, is stocked in stores such as Le Bon Marche, Neiman Marcus, Anita Hass, and Frauenschuh. cridamilano.it, @crida.milano
Crida Milano
Authentic fit and lifestyle: Joop Jeans Women.
nineto9.de
Carolina Alvarez-Ossorio is CMO of the brand and the wellness line is particularly close to her heart.
ECOALF WELLNESS
RESPONSIBLE EVERYDAY CARE
Wellness and skincare seem to be the logical next step in Ecoalf’s mission to create a sustainable and responsible lifestyle brand. In an interview with style in progress, CMO Carolina Álvarez-Ossorio explains how consistently and innovatively the idea of clean beauty has been implemented in every detail. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Ecoalf Wellness
Stephan Huber: Ecoalf has launched a beauty and wellness line that aims to take clean beauty to a new level. Please tell us a bit about the background.
Carolina Álvarez-Ossorio, CMO Ecoalf: We started in 2009 to protect our natural resources and promote a sustainable lifestyle. Our goal is to develop products that solve problems without creating more waste. The cosmetics industry generates millions of plastic waste yearly—120 million plastic containers, with 95% being single-use and only 10% recycled. Plus, it consumes billions of liters of water for formulations. We believe it’s essential to change our habits. That’s why we launched an everyday care line with zero plastics and refillable packaging, promoting circularity. It includes six simple daily products, all meticulously designed with plant-based, biotechnological, and upcycled ingredients. This line not only offers sensory benefits but also has the lowest environmental footprint. Our Ecoalf Wellness line saves the planet up to 53 plastic containers per year and reduces CO2 emissions by up to 74% and water usage by up to 70% compared to conventional products.
What is different about Ecoalf’s approach?
Our line was developed over three years with high standards. We focus on zero plastic to stop waste production. Instead, we use aluminum, a material with the longest lifecycle that can be 100% recycled. For saving water, which makes up 85% of beauty products and contributes to the CO2 footprint, we created solid and powder formulas. My favorite innovation is our body and hand soap powder and shampoo, where rice starch replaces water, offering sebum-regulating properties while keeping your skin cleansed and hydrated. Our formulas are clean and upcycled, free from harmful ingredients like sulfates and parabens, and use upcycled ingredients from food industry waste. They’re 100% vegan, with up to 90% natural origin ingredients.
Packaging is a big challenge. How can a brand be “clean” here too?
We’ve invested a lot of time with experts to innovate clean packaging. Aluminum was our choice for its durability and ability to maintain formulas perfectly without alteration. Our refill system can be recycled after many years, helping to avoid plastic waste. By 2025, our mission is to prevent the production of over 78,000 plastic containers. With our six products, you save 53 plastic containers per year, a significant step toward adopting new habits.
Consumers are hesitant to accept refilling concepts. How can you push this?
This is our biggest challenge. Changing habits requires education. People often don’t realize the damage and waste caused by single-use
products. By highlighting the benefits for both skin and the planet, we can initiate this change.
We educate and raise awareness through fashion, and naturally, we extend this to wellness. Our products are developed with a clear purpose, offering great benefits and convenience for the gym, travel, and everyday life. It’s crucial to have influential voices and engaging content to communicate these simple steps effectively. As we say, we are not simply storytellers but storydoers. Once we identify a problem, we aim to provide solutions with the best quality and design. It’s not the easiest way, but that’s why we’re here.
Ecoalf is celebrating 15 years. What’s next for your mission?
We aim to show that things can be done differently, without harming the planet, while offering great design and quality products. For our 15th anniversary, we launched the “Because there is no planet B” Manifesto, a call to action to regenerate our planet for future generations. Our goal isn’t to be the largest company but the best for the world, as recognized by B Corp.
We are also developing regenerative projects to give back to the Earth, emphasizing soil and farmer regeneration. With the Ecoalf Foundation’s Upcycling the Oceans project, we collaborate with over 4,000 fishermen to remove marine waste. Since 2015, we’ve expanded from Spain to France, Greece, Italy, and now Egypt, removing over 1,500 tons of waste through 70 ports. Our vision is to collaborate with 10,000 fishermen and clean the Mediterranean Sea.
Six products to the highest standards with the smallest possible footprint.
TSTYLE HAMBURG – AGENTUR HECK
Equazione BELLA SICILIA
Drawing on the expertise of pharmacist Giusi Aricò, her Equazione beauty line represents a perfect combination of naturopathy and beauty care. Inspired by Sicilian botanical treasures such as cestrum, finger lime, plumeria, and yuzu, each product offers a sensory experience. From volcanic soils to healing sea waters, Equazione epitomises the authenticity and beauty of the island. Each fragrance essence is extracted with respect for its natural active ingredients and is free of parabens, colorants, and allergens. The minimalistic packaging is eco-friendly and fully recyclable. www.equazionebeauty.com, @equation.botanical.essence
“The Holy Goat represents my attitude to life.” –Simone Goschler
The Holy
Goat
“MY FASHION REPRESENTS AN ATTITUDE TO LIFE”
Simone, The Holy Goat clearly bears a female signature. How does that show?
Simone Goschler, founder of The Holy Goat: We are a small team of women, self-confident and colorful when it comes to fashion. The Holy Goat reflects all that. I never create a collection to see it become a bestseller, but to realize myself and my attitude to life in it – regardless of trends, because I have to like it first and foremost. That is the only way I can inspire women with a similar mindset with my fashion.
How does the collection relate to modern women’s active lives?
By remaining unconstrained. Our knitwear in particular is incredibly changeable and versatile. It can be worn very casually at times and smartly at others, which is important given that you need to react much quicker to external demands these days.
To me, this also means that a modern collection is no longer conceived in categories. A plaid just for the theater? That's how it used to be, nowadays you have to be able to wear it for camping, too.
The Holy Goat defines quiet luxury in the best sense of the term. What does the concept mean to you?
That we are returning to old values, which I believe are all the more relevant today. We favor investing in craftsmanship and quality, which also has its price. It has to be economical and fair for everyone – a balancing act! Our goats, for example, are only shorn once in spring to ensure that they have enough fur to survive the following winter. Ultimately, the goats provide the foundation for our collections. www.theholygoat.com
Long-lived comfort wear: The Holy Goat.
Marcella DEMOCRATISE FASHION!
How does one democratise design?
Siyana Huszar, co-owner of Marcella: We achieve this through our holistic approach. We utilise materials that offer the highest quality and design aesthetics, but our bottom-line price remains much more affordable. Why do you prioritize the empowerment of women?
Empowering women across all aspects of business has a positive, long-term impact on our community and the world. Regardless of their socio-economic status, women have historically experienced inequality. We seek to change this narrative, both through our business practices and by funding girls’ education through our school project.
How do you verify that workers in your supply chain earn sufficiently, and labour protection is observed?
All these conditions are automatically honoured because we manufacture in the EU, where social security and occupational health and safety are extremely important.
What else does the fashion industry need to change with regard to the advancement of women?
It concerns all areas! Of course, human rights and fair wages are paramount, but we also need to look at the availability of clothing and its adaptability to lifestyles, where women are represented, and how brands treat their customers.
marcellanyc.com
Mix/Salò und Mantua “FASHION AFFORDS WOMEN A NEW FREEDOM”
Morena, how might you describe your customers?
Morena Gandini, owner of Mix in Salò and Mantova: They are self-confident and independent. Instead of asking their husband whether they should buy the blouse, they decide for themselves to please themselves.
Is it still relevant to think of fashion in terms of occasions?
No. Since sports have come into fashion, this has changed –great! The sequin top is not just suited to jogging trousers in the evening, and the row blazer suits women at all times. Even ready-to-wear is being reimagined by brands such as Maison Margiela, Sportmax, and Marni, featuring layering and casual cuts that not only flatter slender women.
Do you agree that women over 45 have the greatest purchasing power?
Absolutely. At that age, women have discovered their identity and appreciate fashion that is not loud - away from logos, towards high-quality materials and a look that radiates calm and serenity.
She buys for modern, self-confident women: Morena Gandini.
The inspiration from travelling is reflected in the patterns and colors of the collection.
UNIQUE ADVENTURES
The creative journey of Serena Cibischino, CEO and Creative Director of Italian label Niù, began 25 years ago when she set up her own business after winning a project tender. Her collections reflect values such as authenticity, freedom, respect, and the beauty of blending different cultures. Interview: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Niù
How would you describe the typical Niù style?
Serena Cibischino, CEO and Creative Director of Niù: We embrace the idea that every woman should be able to combine clothes and accessories creatively. Our collections are inspired by stories, traditions, and emotions that we pick up when travelling.
Each season is inspired by a trip to a different country. Which continent fascinates you in particular?
Africa is close to our hearts. It is a place that has transformed our view of the world, where our most beautiful projects have been created.
Every trip is an adventure from which we return changed. Our destinations are always places with an all-enveloping atmosphere and beautiful, little-known artisan traditions. Tell us about your Africa project! We often say that Niù has an African heart. During our first trip to Kenya in 2012, we created a jewellery collection that enables mainly female-run small workshops to operate independently. This wonderful project yielded our jewellery, belts, and Kitenge fabric bags. Why do you not maintain your own online store, or even relationships with large e-tailers?
We opted for upmarket stationary multi-label retailers. The boutiques in which we are represented invest a great deal of time in the selection process and value relationships. We love that! We firmly believe that these shops convey the emotions that we pour into each piece. This creates a connection between the women who inspire us, or who manufacture the products, and those who wear them. This wonderful bond between women forms the soul of our brand.
www.niu-fashion.it
Serena Cibischino: “I would not want to do anything differently.”
Cinque ALL EYES ON THE CUSTOMER
“We have continued to hone the profile of the Cinque customer over the last two years, adapting the collection and product content to seasonal purchasing behaviour and repositioning areas at the POS,” says Claudia Kessler, Head of Sales Womenswear at Cinque. “This focused positioning means that Cinque womenswear continues to grow.” The collection centers on signature pieces and favorites. “The style is anything but loud or obtrusive,” says Verena Geiger-Idalie, Division Head of Design Womenswear. “The strength rather lies in a sophisticated upper casual look that can be worn anytime.” www.cinque.de
Labo.Art PERFECTION THROUGH REDUCTION
Ludovica Diligu never tried to turn Labo.Art into fashion. “My collection is more about design than fashion,” explains the Italian, who was born into a family of architects. “My designs are based on the Bauhaus philosophy: perfection is not achieved when something is added, but when there is nothing left to omit.” Accordingly, Labo.Art focuses on a condensed selection of essential styles that can be combined with each other – intelligently designed to simplify the customer’s choice. The materials employed are natural, such as cotton and linen, while the cuts are geometric for casual comfort. Labo.Art is fuelled by content. “I perceive a strong movement against fast fashion; the days of short-lived trends at cheap prices are over,” the designer argues. “Our customers find themselves in a turbulent and crisis-ridden world. This awareness creates a desire for clarity and essence, which is what we strive to offer with Labo.Art.” Does Ludovica Diligu consider the modern, self-determined type of woman, who dresses casually and feminine, equally prevalent in all European countries? “No, I believe that Germany is way ahead in this respect. Countries like Italy and Greece, where I live, are still catching up.” Labo.Art is presented annually at the Milano Design Week with an installation, while the collection can be viewed in showrooms in Milan and Paris. Petra Esparza McAlpine Fashion Agency handles the DACH market. www.laboart.com
A charismatic woman: Ludovica Diligu.
Timeless, ageless, essential: Labo.Art.
Floor FASHION WITH A MINDSET
What would you call the currently dominant look on the street?
Daniela Cipolli, founder of Floor: I would say that the predominant style is clearly metropolitan casual. Given the hectic pace of modern life, we are increasingly self-determined and wish to be well-dressed from the morning at work to the evening aperitif, without having to change outfits. Is it realistic to advertise brands to 15-year-olds when the average wearer is aged 40 and over?
I certainly believe so. We need to focus on new generations as they are our future, and our customers of tomorrow. How do you exhibit attitude as a brand?
We use wool, cotton, Tencel, and linen sourced from ecologically sustainable supply chains for an environmentally friendly production cycle. Fashion and sustainability absolutely go hand in hand.
Flowers for Friends THE COMEBACK OF FEMININITY
Quiet luxury meets boho: the collection favors feminine blouses, dresses, and trousers in high-quality fabrics. Ruffles, flounces, and lace details make a comeback, while leopard prints and stripes add athleticism to short blouses and shirtdresses. A standout feature is Lyocell Summer Tencel, which, like denim, is piece-dyed and reinterpreted with details and ruffles. Broderie anglaise is an eye-catcher, e.g. as a mini dress with balloon sleeves. A shiny jersey lends tops, flared trousers, and mini dresses casual elegance. Easy to wear: shirt blouses and dresses, slim or wide-leg trousers, and miniskirts in Eurojersey. www.flowers-for-friends.com
Manufactured in Europe: Flowers for Friends.
FEMALE POWER
“Every style bears our individual signature,” says Kerstin Bernecker. Together with her long-time collaborator Sabine Ruppert, the experienced designer has launched Zwei Studio. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Zwei Studio
The target audience are women who are in the prime of life and recognize quality. To this end, authenticity is a priority. The Finest Premium Jersey range extends from oversized to body-hugging, from casual to sexy. A great deal of attention is devoted to high-quality materials with a special flair, which are developed, lovingly sewn, and processed in Portugal according to the wishes of Zwei Studio.
The founders visited the production facilities themselves in advance to become acquainted with the owners and their employees. “We are interested in the underlying commitment and passion.” The result is a subtle aesthetic with a soft feel that is designed to evoke emotions. Zwei Studio also incorporates the entire diversity of modern jersey production. The first collection demonstrates just how versatile jersey can be.
The fabrics created and processed are Single Jersey with a carbon finish, Ecocell, Pima cotton, Super terrycloth, finest linen, Cupro, recycled techno-polyester, high-quality pique cotton, and a knitted fabric for sweatshirts with a cashmere feel.
“Cross-over combinability was extremely important to us. We asked ourselves what would go well with every single piece,” the two dedicated women explain. For the first order round for spring/summer 2025 in July and August, around 65 pieces are available with two delivery dates (February and March/April). On top of that, a follow-up program allows orders in November with a May delivery date. Customized NOS programs are in the pipeline and will be installed in a focused manner. Zwei Studio’s recommended retail prices range from 69 to 249 Euros. @zwei_studio
Avoiding the limelight: Sabine Ruppert and Kerstin Bernecker at the harbor in Porto during their sourcing trip for the Zwei Studio jersey collection. The collections combines the essence of both designers’ experiences.
Zwei Studio
THE FUTURE IS omni
sensoric
Deep emotional connections are forged by experiences, and new sensory impressions at the POS ensure that shopping reclaims its experiential status. Be it scent, pleasure, immersive look and feel, music, or human touch – in an increasingly digitised world, stationary retail is developing into a new refuge of sorts. Strolling, letting yourself drift, and enjoying an escape from everyday life: A discipline that lends retail a future.
VVIRTUAL? REAL? WHO CARES?
Digital fashion, NFTs and the Metaverse all suddenly emerged as the hottest shit. Only to seemingly disappear again very quickly. But really, only seemingly. In fact, the technological, conceptual and economic development has even radically accelerated beyond pure hype.
Stephan Huber spoke to digital fashion designer Stephy Fung and emerging tech and future expert Anne-Liese Prem about the nature of digital fashion, the expansion of consciousness and immersive experiences.
Artwork: Alexander Wells, @alexanderwells
Stephan Huber: Congratulations right off the bat, Stephy. Forbes has included you in their “30 under 30 Europe” in the Art & Culture category...
Stephy Fung: Being among so many other incredible young creatives is a fantastic feeling. Above all, I’m thrilled about the awareness it brings to my work. It’s crucial for the further development of Digital Fashion.
What exactly drew you to this field? In this relatively young discipline straddling fashion, digital art, and gamification, you are, if I may say so, quite the seasoned pro.
Stephy: When I started with digital fashion in 2020, it was still very new. NFTs were just becoming a buzzword. For me, with my background as a 3D motion designer, it was incredibly exciting that I could immerse myself as a person and an artist into my British-Chinese identity and thus make the stories, culture and identity visible. It was also a very personal journey to discover myself. All I really needed was a computer and some software. I already had the technical skills. So, it was quite swift to develop my own identity as a designer. After all, fashion is not just about what you wear, but also about who you are. About identity, about self-confidence. Digital fashion offers entirely new possibilities for this.
What’s so new and different?
Stephy: Ultimately, there are no limits. At least no physical ones. So, you can experiment a lot, test out ideas, discard or rethink them quickly, without worrying about lead times, supply chains, or production costs. I like this speed. At the same time, I’m convinced that we can also learn a lot for future processes in physical fashion. I launched my first physical drop at the beginning of the year and thought and worked very hybridly.
Anne-Liese, your path to becoming an Emerging Tech Scout and a globally sought-after Digital Branding Expert has been quite the extraordinary journey. What drove you?
Anne-Liese Prem: People like Stephy. Just listening to her does something to me. I’m very curious and eager to learn. I started my career in fashion and luxury communication and worked for Swarovski over 20 years ago, publishing their trend magazine. Throughout my career, I’ve always been searching for future trends. Then I founded my agency, where I also collaborated with forward-looking brands. About three years ago, I started working with Crunchyroll, the anime streaming platform, and began following gamers and people living and working at the intersection of technology and culture. I was immediately thrilled by the idea of Web 3 and blockchain, and the notion that this could be the future of the creative industry. Co-creation and digital ownership, and so forth. And of course, this also opened the doors to digital fashion for me. Prada Timecapsule,
Metaverse Fashion Week, Roblox... I connected the dots for myself and realized this is also MY future. So, I’ve been constantly expanding my network and knowledge. Because projects are born from and within this wonderful, tightly-knit community. And we’re really just at the beginning.
The fashion industry itself is still struggling to not pigeonhole Digital Fashion into the “something with gaming”-category. What’s needed to leverage the enormous potential of this topic, especially for the challenging transformation of the industry, more quickly and directly?
Stephy: I see it as a fairly normal transition process. A lot is already on the way. Programs like CLO 3d are becoming more important in design, planning and production processes today, spurred on by the rapid development of AI. I’m convinced not only that this can optimize efficiency and thus costs, but I also see a strong positive impact on creativity. A particularly exciting question for me is the willingness to buy, collect and also use digital products. But ultimately, this is a generational issue. For the younger part of Gen Z, the idea of a digital identity is simply part of everyday life. What must come, and will, is on the one hand simpler access. But even more important is another point. If I want to transfer a digital outfit from a platform like Decentraland to Roblox or Fortnite today, it’s super difficult because so far, they’ve always been separate, closed worlds. For me, this is a challenge for providers. Users don’t want a closed, but a seamless experience. That’s actually the idea of the Metaverse.
Anne-Liese: For me, the Metaverse always was more than just a virtual meeting place with legless avatars. Rather, it stands for the digital transformation that drives us forward. Companies like Siemens and Apple are integrating Metaverse concepts into their technologies and transforming the internet into an immersive 3D space, where digital and physical worlds merge and technologies like AI come into play. Digital fashion already encompasses so much more than most people might think. There are augmented reality concepts, where you can try on clothing via your phone, and virtual fashion, like the skins in games. Then there’s digital fashion as a new field in complied art, which can be collected via NFTs, but also worn in games and possibly soon everywhere if the APIs of the various platforms are standardized. I completely agree with Stephy here. The seamless transition is crucial for the user experience. However, the biggest challenge is still the question of monetization for brands, figuring out how they can profit from these digital innovations.
Stephy, establishing working business models for Digital Fashion is not unimportant to you...
Stephy (laughs): Yes, I think we’re all trying to figure it out right now. The company I still look up to the most is RTFKT. They had this NFT community going and used the on-demand system to reward their collectors with digital
pieces. I’m not sure how sustainable this will be in the long run because the hype around NFTs has definitely cooled off. But the community aspect is something I really admire, because they really involved their community. They’ve incorporated them into their IP and encouraged them to develop their own versions of their 3D assets and models. Because it’s all about the community. And I think that’s something that should continue in this field. I also like the idea of collaborating with physical fashion brands, like The Fabricant with Maison Margiela, also based on the sense of community. You can even order a physical piece of their virtual Tabby boots. Quite cool. I think the bridge between digital and physical is really important.
So, a sort of hybrid on-demand model? If you love something digital so much, then you can order it as a physical product?
Stephy: Exciting thought, right? My community has pushed me: “Hey Stephy, we don’t just want to wear your clothes virtually, but physically as well!” If you’ve studied fashion and know how to make patterns, you can translate them quite well from a digital to a physical form. But for people like me, who are gradually learning about patterns and fits, there are things that look great in digital form but just don’t work physically or are too expensive. As a 3D artist, you don’t have to worry about things the camera can’t see. But in real life, you see everything that’s visible. It’s a challenge and a very exciting process for me. I’m working with a company called Phygital Twin to help bridge the gap between digital and physical. I believe so much in digital integration. And it would just be great if there were this free choice in the future.
Anne-Liese: We need to think about this development from the perspective of Gen Z and even Gen Alpha. This generation will soon have purchasing power and approaches digitalization in a completely different way. Fashion brands are like big ships in an ocean, and now a wave is coming that they need to adjust to. They must understand the perspective, the hybrid reality of their future target audiences. Digital fashion cannot be considered in isolation; it’s part of a new way of storytelling and a new way for customers to get to know the brand—first digitally. Digital fashion designers will be as influential as couture designers. They shape aesthetics and technology and show what’s possible with digital tools. This will be an integral part of fashion overall.
My pretty smart friend Vahe rhetorically asked me back in early 2020, “Hey Stephan, do you think something’s not real just because you can’t touch it?” So, let’s talk about how we might expand our concept of reality or our omnisensoric perception.
Stephy: Again - the great thing about the digital world is that we’re not bound by physical laws, to put it simply. And now we can experience things in a new, immersive way, right? Mixed reality is still quite a new topic. This just opens up so
many more and new options for exploring what it means to express yourself. I don’t have a final answer on what it could be, because with technology there are so many possibilities to play, and technical progress is so breathtaking. Even for me. But I really enjoy seeing how we, the younger generation, are driving a new form of self-expression and how it spills over to mass consumers.
Anne-Liese: I remember a few years ago, I shared a video on LinkedIn where Keanu Reeves was explaining ‘The Matrix’ to some teenagers. He basically said, it’s about this guy who doesn’t know what’s real or what’s virtual. One of the teenagers just looked at him and said, ‘Who cares?’ And I thought that was a brilliant way to show how the next generation navigates the digital world. Belonging to Generation X, my personal reality check was when I stood online next to Maghan McDowell from Vogue Business at the Metaverse Fashion Week. She was downright stylish, while I was in the standard look you get when you first appear in Decentraland. I hadn’t bothered to buy an outfit and felt totally underdressed. I really wanted what she had. It’s funny how you have the same feelings in these digital spaces as in real life.
Recently, I tried the Apple Vision Pro. The mixed-reality experience was overwhelming. I was told to pick up a Formula 1 tire, and I thought, ‘I can’t pick it up; it’s not really there.’ But it felt like I could touch it. Really! It’s confusing and at the same time fascinating to see how our brains deal with it and where all this might lead. It’s definitely interesting times to be in the fashion industry, VERY interesting times.
Stephy Fung is a leading digital fashion artist, educator and content creator who is on a mission to blend physical and digital fashion with phygitals, NFTs, digital wearables for the Metaverse and augmented reality. She has also collaborated with renowned brands such as Gucci, Highsnobiety, Lenovo, Dell and Snapchat, setting the stage for the growth of her brand. And most recently has been listed on Forbes 30 under 30 for representing Arts and Culture in Europe.
www.stephyfung.com
Anne-Liese Prem is the founder and CEO of tomorrowstories, a future trends & innovation consultancy at the intersection of emerging tech and culture. Anne-Liese has worked internationally in places as diverse as Australia and Uganda, for global brands like Swarovski and Red Bull. She focuses on next-generation storytelling, including spatial computing, immersive experiences, gaming and generative AI and collaborates closely with C-suite executives and startups as an advisor, helping them sharpen their future strategy. She is the editor of several trend reports on digital transformation and a speaker at academic institutions and metaverse related events. www.tomorrowstories.com
Ikono/Vienna
ART SPACE FOR ILLUSIONS
Ikono defines itself as a cheerful break from everyday life, an immersive art museum for hands-on participation, and a multi-sensory experience featuring fun and games. Spaniard Fernando Pastor Troya founded Ikono in 2020. In the last four years, the 25-year-old CEO has rolled out his concept in Barcelona, Madrid, Rome, Budapest, and Vienna.
Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Ikono
Ikono clearly fulfils a need. How would you describe it?
Fernando Pastor Troya, founder of Ikono: Ikono’s experiential world fulfils the need for imaginative activity. In a world that is predominantly digitally driven, this focus on creativity and shared physical
experiences is an appealing juxtaposition. People visit Ikono in search of something new and exciting. They wish to fully immerse themselves in this visually stunning environment. Although it is a stationary experience, the concept also radiates into the digital world, with millions of visitors posting their impressions online. Is this media by-catch, or a central tactical element of Ikono?
This relationship between stationary experiences and the digital world is particularly appealing to our visitors. They appreciate surprises that are not only fun in the moment, but also shareable. At Ikono, sharing is a natural consequence of the experience, not the main motive. We genuinely invite our visitors to immerse themselves in the moment and enjoy the spaces. The fusion of physical immersion and digital connectivity is particularly compelling for our customers, who are on average 30 years old, as it satisfies their need for authentic experiences that resonate with their communities.
Gallery of the future: Ikono takes its visitors on an experiential journey with interactive art installations and immersive spaces.
30 YEARS OMNISENSORIC
“Art to Wear” – is the claim to mark the 30th anniversary of Avant Toi, a brand that has been emphasising uniqueness and wearing experience since 1994. Quality and artistic craftsmanship appeal to all senses. style in progress spoke to Fiorella Ghignone, founder and owner, and her daughter Giulia Marini, head of marketing, about growing up and their omnisensoric approach.
Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Avant Toi
30 is a good age - still youthful, but wise enough to have figured out a great deal. How are you experiencing this anniversary, Fiorella?
Fiorella Ghignone, co-founder and owner of Avant Toi: The most rewarding aspect of this anniversary is seeing that our disruptive approach to cashmere was proven correct, and that we have set new standards. Some customers have been by our side all these years, which makes us proud. We grew alongside them. Excellent companions are the best aspect of such a journey.
Giulia Marini, Head of Marketing at Avant Toi: 30 is a significant number. You are grown up, yet still have a lot to learn. You are dynamic and willing to reshape the future. Looking ahead is in our DNA.
What does the future hold?
Fiorella: We intend to enhance the physical experience, be it in our showroom or at our partners’ POS. Customers should be able to immerse themselves in our world of colors and haptics. Our product needs a 360-degree experience in order to enjoy it fully.
How do you implement this?
Giulia: By organising art workshops with Mirko (Creative Director), for example. Our recent event in Paris at Leclaireur is a prime example: a mix of fun, art, food, drink, and dancing, with our collection at the centre.
Is the future omnisensoric?
Fiorella: Absolutely. It was and remains omnisensoric for us. Giulia: And omnichannel… This omnisensoric approach must be realised digitally. That is what we are working on.
Avant Toi
Fiorella Ghignone and daughter Giulia Marini. (1) – Mirko Ghignone at the Leclaireur workshop in Paris. (2) – Mirko is not only a talented artist, but also a sportsman. Here he is performing a Capoeira interlude. The Brazilian martial art is often featured at Avant Toi events. (3)
X-TENDED REALITY
The avant-garde art scene and the entertainment industry are currently outlining a disturbingly ingenious example of what is becoming an increasingly important distinguishing factor in the retail sector: immersive experiences that explore the thrill of the fluid interface between tangible reality and levels of perception enhanced by technical tools. The room itself is merely the screen on which a film unfolds on several levels. Virtual reality and augmented reality merge to form the new buzzword x-tended reality by allowing visitors to experience them without the use of technical devices. The new experience economy is pushed to the extreme in multi-entertainment domes such as the Sphere in Las Vegas, the Cosm in Dallas, or immersive art galleries such as Inter_ in New York. Such concepts sprang up like mushrooms in 2023. While these are not exactly blueprints for retail, they are a source of inspiration that is hard to ignore and can also be realised in a figurative sense: with retail concepts that appeal to all senses. The growing desire to peer beyond the surface of a product, to expand one’s own sensory reality in multiple layers, to escape from it to a certain extent - stores cater to this demand in fascinatingly different ways.
Next level entertainment. A hot topic ever since the
The Sphere, a dome-shaped multimedia event hall in Las Vegas, boasts a 54,000 square-meter outer layer equipped with LEDs for visual entertainment. Inside, the world’s first 16K LED display on 15,000 square meters broadcasts live events so vividly that visitors feel as if they are actually physically there.
Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores
Super Bowl:
Inter_/New York “IS THIS STILL AN ART GALLERY?”
The team of Inter_ founder Ryan Nelson considers this question from a surprised visitor a compliment, because Inter_, as a sensual and interactive overall concept, no longer merely fulfils the function of a gallery, but rather actively interacts with the art on display while inviting its visitors to do the same. Technical innovations such as an interactive, digital projection show, a mesmerising, digitally animated floor, interactive mirror effects, and an AI-controlled, free-to-use photo box for Instagram and the like are available for this purpose. Each room offers a new experience that incorporates art.
Cosm/Dallas SHARED REALITY IN XXL
The technology and media company Cosm, an expert in the construction of planetariums and research centers for 75 years, is the driving force behind the planned 2024 opening of this immersive XXL event hall in Texas. Cosm in Dallas is poised to combine all of the company’s expertise for the first time: 3D film technology presented in immersive multimedia events for the seamless fusion of virtual and physical experiences. Visitors should feel like they are at a live event, even though it is being shown as a recording or live broadcast on the spherical XXL screen – be it a concert, sporting event, or expedition film.
Cosm calls it shared reality: The venue has cooperation agreements with leading sports associations such as the NBA for broadcasting numerous championship games.
“Inter_ invites visitors to immerse themselves in our carefully curated collection of audiovisual digital experiences full of quirky art and technology exhibits,” says Ryan Nelson, founder of the interactive gallery.
The Illuminarium promises its visitors an experience that cannot merely be seen and heard, but also smelled and sensed.
Illuminarium/Toronto NO STREAMING SERVICE CAN MATCH THAT…
… is their compelling argument. Such sensual community experiences are simply not possible at home! Illuminarium opened its third location in North America in Toronto last August. In one sentence, one could describe the concept as an interactive fusion of cinema and theater. Illuminarium, a specialist in experimental entertainment, has successfully expanded in collaboration with Secret Location, an Emmy award winner for unique VR and AR productions. In the After Dark series, the Illuminarium also operates as a nightclub where robots serve drinks and DJs perform in front of a gigantic backdrop.
Club 21 @ Como Orchard/Singapore A NEW DEFINITION OF AN EXPERIENCE COMPLEX
This is the latest addition to entrepreneur Christina Ong’s Como Group. The success of the group – which is now active in 15 countries with hotels, resorts, fashion stores, and spas – stems from Ong’s multi-brand concept Club21. It all started with fashion, however. It is therefore no coincidence that the superior Como Orchard hotel in Singapore, which opened in 2023, features its own Club21 store across two floors. The Como Group traditionally embeds all Club21 stores in holistic worlds of experience. At the Orchard Hotel, guests can therefore enjoy more than a highly unusual selection of high-fashion brands such as Alaïa, Alexander Wang, Oscar de la Renta, Jacquemus, and Tom Wood. They also have a personal stylist at their disposal and can book personal shopping appointments.
Embedded in the luxury lifestyle of the Como Orchard Hotel in Singapore, the Club21 multi-brand store by Christina Ong extends over two levels.
Mason Prince/Guangzhou BEYOND THE PRESENT
Photos: Free Will Photography
Chinese streetwear brand Mason Prince staged a journey back in time through the most style-defining decades of the past century, combined with utopian visions of the future, for its first offline store in Guangzhou, which opened in April 2023. The concept illustrates the high standards that both the triplets Qiusen, Qiumu, and Qiulin Zhou as designers and owners of the brand, and their Gen-Z clientele place on a space like this. The store, which resembles a cult site, appears at first glance to be a bizarre fusion of art gallery and apocalypse scenario. Customers need to search and find the products behind cupboard doors and drawer fronts. This playfulness and sense of discovery invites customers to travel back in time through the entire store, featuring office equipment from the 1950s and 1960s. The changing rooms are designed like lifts, allowing customers to time travel imaginatively.
Why not? The store experience at Mason Prince in Guangzhou deliberately challenges its customers to discover, contextualise, and ultimately not fully comprehend elements.
The Arsenale/Doha JUMPING FROM BOAT TO PLANE
This slogan by co-owner and designer Marcela Mayorga Meignan not only describes the mobility patterns of a prototypical customer she has in mind when designing her own activewear fashion line, but also the idea behind The Arsenale. One feels transposed to a James Bond film from 2039. Everything at The Arsenale revolves around the intoxication of speed and – because the former charm of tuning garages and motorsport romanticism has lost considerable ground to climate protection – also around the future of (more sustainable) mobility. Translated extremely stylish, of course. Owners Patrice and Marcela Mayorga Meignan showcase the exclusive and expensive lifestyle of The Arsenale in numerous collaborations with trendy designers and engineers. The brand’s concept store, which opened in Doha at the end of 2023, is the fourth of its kind after New York, Miami, and Macao, and is a showroom for its universe. High-end art and design meet the latest technology, futuristic visions, and the art of engineering - and appeal to all senses of the customers. Embedded in a sophisticated range of brands that the trained designer, fashion journalist, and publisher of Regia selects herself, Marcela Mayorga Meignan complements her portfolio in Doha with her own collection of activewear and jewellery for the first time. Anyone who has tuning in their blood understands the desire for madeto-measure and customised products. The Arsenale has applied this idea to all areas.
Arrived in Qatar: The Arsenale opened its fourth store at the end of 2023. Doha is the ideal location for a concept described as the pursuit of engineering excellence, boundless creativity, and visionary innovation.
Xydrobe @ Harrods/London LARGE-SCALE PREMIERE
For the small team of Xydrobe founders Nell Lloyd-Malcolm, Isabella Gallucci, and Michael Pegrum, it is the most ambitious project to date. After prestigious projects with luxury brands such as Manolo Blahnik, Givenchy, and JW Anderson, Harrods announced its plans for the extensive collaboration with the London-based agency for experimental retail technologies in April. Xydrobe’s most successful project to date is the Xydrobe Pod, a visually stunning one-man entertainment cabin in an elegant spherical shape that uses VR technology to immerse its occupants in a multidimensional brand world with all their senses. The opening of a dedicated VR 4D cinema on the fifth floor of the famous Knightsbridge department store is now scheduled for June. The aim is to take storytelling and experience to a new level. This sensory super tool allows selected brands to inspire and entertain their customers in an unprecedented way – accompanied by stylistic devices such as wind, temperature, surround sound, VR film technology, and fragrances.
Modular shopfitting with lots of design options: JNBY and Less already have several thousand stores in China. The collection can do both: Stand in dialogue with other brands in multi-brand retail as well as stand-alone retail.
LESS IS MORE
What we know of JNBY in Europe is only a small part of the impressive portfolio of the Chinese billion-dollar company with around 2,000 POS in its home market. Its European ambitions represent a great opportunity for retailers.
“Many people know JNBY for hero products like the down vest, but it’s worth taking a deep dive into this company,” says Timothy Hoferer from Modeist after his trip to China with European importer Michael Bax. “A huge campus that is impressively busy and at the same time has an almost Zen-like calm,” he describes. “You can feel the professionalism and the will to prove its strengths in Europe in every fiber of the company.”
Specifically, in addition to a broader JNBY selection for men and women, which will also be distributed across Europe via Marcona3, the promising label Less will also be joining Modeist starting spring/summer 2025. “Less fits perfectly into contemporary collections and fills a gap with its reduced but very distinctive style. The name says it all.” From the almost 1,500 samples per main delivery
date, the European team chooses a selection of 150 to 200 styles for Less just as it does for JNBY. In summer, it becomes abundantly clear that outdoor wear is just one pillar of the brand. JNBY is everyday wear from clean to very fashionable. Less, on the other hand, has its roots in ready-to-wear, a next-gen complete look that skillfully combines fashion and advanced basics.
GROWTH THROUGH SPACE
A franchise store at Bikini Berlin is just the beginning. “Shops, concessions, space, JNBY and Less take on investments in the store construction and provide support as partners.” Even before the sales season begins, Modeist is looking to talk to potential partners, and JNBY and Less are supporting awareness with an event in Düsseldorf. “An unbiased look at Asian-born brands shows that our market can learn a lot from the modern culture of these companies.” Drops such as a men’s capsule with Neil Barrett, shopfitting by the renowned architecture studio Linehouse or the general brand aesthetic: “This could become something really big,” Timothy Hoferer is convinced.
JNBY
patric@4pm-agency.com
Well-rehearsed: The AlphaTauri and Schnitzler teams.
AlphaTauri x Schnitzler
“RELATIONSHIPS DO NOT THRIVE IN 17-PAGE CONTRACTS”
A customer since day one, maintaining an amicable relationship that nevertheless embraces critical dialogue: AlphaTauri and Schnitzler are quick to mention each other’s names when asked who they collaborate with particularly successfully. The most recent example involves a joint evening event for which Schnitzler customers were invited to the German headquarters in Düsseldorf. A conversation with Ahmet Mercan and Andreas Weitkamp about the value of the brand/retailer relationship.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Fabian Heigel
Ahmet, what does it mean when 65 customers of Modehaus Schnitzler travel from Münster and many other cities on a Friday evening to spend an evening with your brand?
Ahmet Mercan, CEO of Alpha Tauri: First of all, I have great respect for how much Schnitzler inspires its customers. This is exactly the kind of community building that everyone speaks of. Of course, it also honours us as a brand, because these customers are obviously keen to immerse themselves in the world of AlphaTauri. Andreas, why did you invite people to the AlphaTauri showroom when the store would be the more obvious choice?
Andreas Weitkamp, CEO of Modehaus Schnitzler: I think we are renowned for the fact that the obvious, or what everyone else does, does not come easy to us. (laughs) The idea initially came about when a customer asked me if there was a chance of coming along to order from AlphaTauri. We then put this idea together, and here
we are today – with a respectable number of customers who were more than willing to accept traffic jams, car journeys, and – in some cases – even overnight stays in hotels to spend an evening with us. What was the surprise of the evening?
Ahmet Mercan: I really took the time to exchange a few words with as many customers as possible. I was not only impressed by the interest in our products and their innovations, but above all by the interest in the people behind the brand.
Andreas Weitkamp: The commercial factor. We deliberately planned an event without any added sales pressure. Of course, our most discerning customers came beforehand to buy a new outfit for the evening itself. Yet the highlight was that they were treated to a preview of the autumn/winter range in the showroom, and that we returned with a whole list of pre-orders. Something we had not expected: in detail, with photos and size requests.
Let me ask you directly if is it possible to realize such an idea with every brand?
Andreas Weitkamp: No. Many brands simply use the word partnership as the title page of a 17-page contract that primarily regulates the obligations of us retailers. That is why we at Schnitzler have decided to strengthen the others all the more rigorously: the brands that imbue the term with mutual respect and a shared desire for success.
Ahmet Mercan: Schnitzler has been a customer since day one, since the first wholesale collection in 2019. This means we have experienced every moment of our evolution as a brand together: two years of the pandemic, collections that were occasionally viewed quite critically, many fantastic events, steady growth in sales and importance at Schnitzler. This mutual commitment is certainly unique in our young brand history.
In conversation with customers: Alexander Gibmeyer, Schnitzler.
Andreas Weitkamp, CEO Schnitzler, and Ahmet Mercan, CEO AlphaTauri.
Per Un Amore Nuovo*
*from La canzone dell’amore perduto by Fabrizio de André, the incomparable, who died 25 years ago in Milan, Città Studi. Fondazione Fabrizio De André Onlus: Via Morozzo della Rocca, 9 - 20123 Milano
Milan is fashion! Everyone who works in this industry needs to come here, merge with the Quadrilatero della Moda and pay homage to the giants of yesterday (and today): Armani, Versace, Valentino, Prada - what resounding names. They take us straight back to the era of Milano-da-bere, the iconic era of the yuppies in the 1980s. A time when the capital of Lombardy became the capital of the global fashion scene alongside Paris and New York. But what does Milan stand for today? For the opulent elegance of the Sciura Milanese, for outstanding cuisine in exceptionally chic restaurants, the ever-breathtaking cathedral, the Derby della Madonnina (Inter vs. AC Milan) ... but also for the innovative energy of a new generation of designers, fashion creators and artists. Through the eyes of five selected personalities who are deeply rooted in the creative soul of the city, we have taken a new look at Milan. Brenda Bizzi Bellei (White Milano), Elisa Gaito (Elisa Gaito Showroom), Paulina del Torre and Youwie Roes (Lomme2018), Antonio Longo (Marcona3) and Giorgio Mallone (Family First) take you on a multi-sensoric walk and invite you to fall in love all over again. Enjoy!
“Milan is my second home. Milan is the cradle of my dreams, my aspirations, my potential!”
The Giuseppe Meazza stadium (today still known as San Siro) (1) is the place in Milan where I feel best and have the most fun. Before every Inter game, I meet up with my friends at the Baretto to prepare myself mentally. It’s a place of friendship and sports - I love it. Kanye West has also been a guest here, featuring the Curva Nord choir on his album Voltures 1. BBQ (3) quickly became “my” restaurant: it’s just around the corner from the showroom and the owners, Danila and Andrea, are like family. They often serve dishes from my home region of Puglia: orecchiette cime di rapa are my favorite. And when I want to escape the hustle and bustle, I go to Piazza del Carmine (2). I feel like I’m on vacation there, sipping my coffee as if I were in any square in southern Italy. It’s a piece of paradise where Milan turns into something else. Here, Milan is not Milan. San Siro, sansirostadium.com/stadium/stadio-san-siro – Piazza del Carmine, chiesadelcarmine.net, @chiesadelcarmine –BBQ, ristorantebbqmilano.it, @bbq_milano
3
Although I’m not from Milan, I feel very connected to this city. This is where Projekt White originated, which has been taking place for over 20 years in the Tortona district, including at Superstudio più (1). Milan is an international metropolis, a place full of opportunities for courageous entrepreneurs. To appeal to an international audience, it is undoubtedly important to present modern and innovative projects like White. I love the city’s cultural treasures. I am particularly fascinated by Roman architecture, and the cloister of Sant’Ambrogio (2) is one of my favorite destinations. The basilica is one of the oldest churches in Milan and, along with the cathedral, one of the most important - after all, Sant’Ambrogio is the patron saint of the city. I love historical places by nature and the Portrait (3) is an extremely well-kept and cozy place, ideal for my business meetings and for networking. I appreciate the exclusivity, the coziness and the good food. Superstudio più, superstudioevents.com, @superstudio.events – White Milano, whiteshow.com, @whiteshowofficial – Portrait Milano, lungarnocollection.com/portrait-milano-hotel, @portraitmilano – Chiostri di Sant’Ambrogio by Bramante, Via Lanzone, Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 12 noon and 2.30 pm to 6 pm, Sunday 3 pm to 5 pm, free admission
Brenda Bizzi Bellei, CEO White Milano
“A place full of opportunities for courageous entrepreneurs”
“Milan is a vibrant city - modern and efficient - with many hidden corners of extreme beauty to discover.”
Elisa Gaito, CEO Elisa Gaito Showroom
My three favorite places in Milan are all run by women. The first is Pasticceria Cucchi (1), now run by Elena and Giulia Bulleri-Monti and their parents Marco and Tiziana. The family business, rooted in Italian culinary tradition thanks to their grandfather Giacomo, offers a delicious mix of traditional Milanese sweets and savory treats in a charming setting. With its nostalgic atmosphere and modern touches by designer Alessandro Enriquez, Pasticceria Cucchi is the perfect place for a cozy aperitif or a light lunch, a must if you’ve been shopping at Biffi. Tea Rose (2) concept store is a unique mix of flowers, gift ideas, perfumes and fragrances, beauty products and fashion accessories. Under the management of Tina, visitors can expect a very personal service and expert advice in a calm and welcoming atmosphere. Lu Bar (3), meaning “The Bar” in Sicilian, began with Ape cars selling Sicilian street food on the streets of Milan. The start-up has since grown into a bistro in a romantic 19th century setting reminiscent of a greenhouse. Founded by Lucrezia, Lucilla and Ludovico, the children of designer Luisa Beccaria, the restaurant offers a variety of delicious Sicilian starters.
Pasticceria Cucchi, pasticceriacucchi.it, @pasticceria_cucchi – Tea Rose, tearose.it/boutiques, @tearosevents – Lu Bar, lubar.it, @lubar 3
“In Milan, traditions, history and the current fashion system merge. Whatever you’re looking for, you’ll find it here.”
Paulina de La Torre & Youwie Roes Showroom Lomme2018
The Bocciofila di Enzo e Mimmo (1), formerly known as Cooperativa Sempione, is our centerpiece as it represents the authentic, working Milan away from the historic center. With over 100 years of history, it began as a cooperative for workers and later developed into a bocciodromo in the 1960s. It’s a place where you can eat well and simply and spend the afternoons playing cards, bocce or billiards. We really do spend a lot of time here. The Fondazione ICA Milano (2) is an institute for contemporary art and culture that is characterized by its ecological approach to art. Founded by five art lovers, it emphasizes the importance of community involvement and public participation. It’s where we go when we’re looking for artistic inspiration. [ 2.1 Erika Verzutti. Notizia, curated by Chiara Nuzzi and Alberto Salvadori, April to July 2024. – 2.2 Formafantasma. La casa dentro, curated by Alberto Salvadori, April to July 2024. Courtesy of the Fondazione ICA Milano and the artis ] When it comes to shopping, it’s usually ENDClothing (3) - we always find what we’re looking for here. Bocciofila di Enzo e Mimmo, facebook.com/daMimmoedEnzo – ICA Milano, icamilano.it, @ica_milano – ENDClothing, endclothing.com/it, @endclothing
My absolute favorite place in Milan is actually my home (1). I grew up in Zona Pagano and now live in the Bocconi University neighborhood, which is lively, young and university-like. One of my favorite spots in town is definitely the Trattoria del Ciumbia (2) run by my friend Davide Ciancio (one of the owners). You can eat incredibly well there and then party at the disco/bar in the basement. Really a hotspot at the moment. Finally, I would like to mention the Milan subway (3) with its graffiti: That’s where life is, where everything mixes, a melting pot of cultures and styles - a place of inspiration for fashion designers like me. Trattoria del Ciumbia, trattoriadelciumbia.com/en/home-eng, @trattoriadelciumbia
Giorgio Mallone, co-founder and creative director of Family First “Milan is my birthplace, I am third generation Milanese, who can still say that today? I am very proud of this and I love my city!”
Dolly Noire – Being the Black Sheep
Gioele Castelvetere, Daniele Crepaldi, Federico Ferrero and Alessandro Malandra were 15 years old when they decided to design a group T-shirt for their 40-strong clique. The symbol quickly became clear: the stylization of a park bench - the place where they met every day. Finding a name was also pretty easy: Dolly was the name of the first cloned sheep in 1996 and it stands for a perfect, uniform world, represented by a flock of white, identical sheep. Noire, on the other hand, is the color of the soul, of those who want to be different. Being a black sheep means having courage, not conforming, making a difference and living out your creativity. This is the only way to make dreams come true, explains Daniele Crepaldi (pictured above left), now Brand Manager of the brand. It was 20 years ago when all this came about. Today, the company generates over five million Euros in sales and is one of the most important creative fashion labels.
Dolly Noire, dollynoire.com, @dlynrmilano
Notprinted – Hand-Painted
Brothers Paolo and Lorenzo Caranti are actually trained printing experts: they have always printed and embroidered sports and fashion items in their studio cum shop in Porta Ticinese. Their own label has also been available since 2016: Notprinted. A collection of hand-painted military jackets and shirts (mostly second-hand), T-shirts, hoodies and cappies. “Our artists paint each picture freehand to ensure that each item is unique. The resulting splashes and stains are deliberately placed to emphasize the differences between each garment. The paintings depict reinterpreted characters, landscapes and symbols that aim to inspire the wearer and the viewer alike,” says Paolo about the label. These unique pieces have long been successful beyond the borders of Milan and Italy, and from next season onwards the collection will be available not only in Europe, but also in Japan.
Notprinted, notprinted.it, @notprinted.it
Ceresio 7 Gym & Spa – Training on Cloud Seven
The club at the Dsquared2 headquarters in the heart of Milan offers an innovative approach to wellness. Founded by fashion twins Dean and Dan Caten, the gym and spa aims to take its members on a journey of positivity, energy and inspiration. Divided into Gym & Fitness, Beauty Spa & Wellness, Metabolism & Nutrition and Medical, the club offers a wide range of personalized services. The fitness area features Technogym equipment and offers customized training sessions. The wellness center includes a pool, whirlpool, steam room, sauna and first-class massages and beauty treatments. Nutrition experts assist with metabolic analysis, while the medical area examines and prevents postural problems. Ceresio 7, ceresio7.com, @ceresio7gymspa
Faak – Star Cuisine for All
Renowned Michelin chef Viviana Varese has shaken up the Milanese restaurant scene with the opening of “Faak - Food and Wine with a Natural Rebellion” in January 2024. Located in the Farini district, Faak promises to break every norm with its bold cuisine and relaxed atmosphere, starting with the name. Today, Varese wants the luxury of cooking whatever she feels like, escaping the pressure of a Michelin-starred kitchen. The restaurant is open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. and offers a varied menu ranging from Varese’s famous baked goods to grilled dishes, as well as a fine selection of natural wines. The absolute highlight is Varese’s specialty: pizza. With prices starting at seven Euros, Faak aims to be a place where locals and tourists alike are welcome to enjoy the lively atmosphere and innovative cuisine. Faak, faakfaak.it, @faakfuoco
Cool & Good
In Porta Ticinese, there is another store that makes streetwear lovers’ hearts beat faster. The world’s first Funky brand flagship store has been here since 2021. Founded by Isacco Mantegazza and Luca Cozzi, the label offers a wide range of skateboards, snowboards and matching fashion. The interior design of the store pays particular attention to sustainability and ecology. Everything here is made from recycled industrial containers and Moso bamboo, decorated with inlays made from recycled Vibram rubber. Cool and good at the same time. Funky, funkysnowboards.com, @funkystore_milano
Kia is once again presenting “Opposites United” at Milan Design Week in collaboration with Zero. The exhibition and the public program invite international personalities to reflect on disciplinary and thematic overlaps (1,2,4). Stone Island is also back with Research_Series. These are models made with fabrics and/or processes that have not yet been industrialized. In general, Fuori Salone was a great success again this year with 1,125 events, 838 participating brands and 630,000 online users from 162 countries - an increase of 23 percent compared to 2023.
Milano Design Week – hotspot of interdisciplinary creativity
What began as a furniture fair in Milan in 1961 has developed into a spectacular festival of art, craftsmanship and innovation that attracts visionaries from various creative fields.
Today, the Salone del Mobile and Fuori Salone shine as a hotspot for interdisciplinary creativity. Every year in April, Milan transforms into a spectacle loved and lived by the whole city, blurring the boundaries between fashion, art, design and technology and creating a whole new energy. Fashion brands and designers have recognized the Salone as an important platform for presentation and inspiration and use the unique atmosphere to present their identity beyond seasonal obligations and commercial constraints to an international audience. www.salonemilano.it/it, @isaloniofficial – www.fuorisalone.it, @fuorisalone
Fashion Week or Design Week?
Which is cooler for fashion brands today: Fashion Weeks or Design Week in April? Both? style in progress talked about this with Save the Duck CEO Nicolas Bargi, Carlos Pellegrini, Vice President Global Sales & Marketing Aspesi and Dirk Schönberger, Chief Brand Officer Vetsak.
Save the Duck – “Design Week Is Democratic”
The Design Week is gaining relevance for fashion brands. Why?
Nicolas Bargi, founder of Save the Duck: It creates scope for innovation, creativity, and the convergence of different design disciplines. Fashion not only encompasses clothing, but also lifestyle, identity, and expression, all of which are closely interwoven with design principles. Design Week attracts a diverse audience of design enthusiasts, professionals, and media, providing brands with a platform for greater visibility. It allows them to reach a wider and more diverse clientele, which represents a democratic approach – unlike the Fashion Week events, which are mostly reserved for insiders.
How does Save the Duck perceive this overlap between design and fashion?
As a natural and exciting development. This year marked the third time that we served as the main partner of the Design Pride organized by Seletti. We organized the closing party on Piazza Sempione, where some of the most famous Italian artists performed. We utilized video installations to highlight this year’s project on clean drinking water.
How significant are such omni-sensoric touchpoints with end consumers for a brand?
Omni-comprehensive experiences, as I refer to them, are gaining in importance. Consumers seek out deeper connections with brands and products, and these immersive experiences create lasting impressions. Events like Design Pride appeal to the public on all levels by combining visual, auditory, and tactile elements.
Save the Duck CEO Nicolas Bargi has been investing in Design Week for years.
Impressions of Design Pride, with Save the Duck as main sponsor.
Aspesi x Vetsak – A Natural Brand Extension
Aspesi was among the first fashion labels to recognize the potential of Design Week. At the latest edition, the brand presented Transformation, a capsule with German next-gen furniture company Vetsak.
Why has Design Week become so important for fashion brands?
Carlos Pellegrini, Vice President Global Sales & Marketing Aspesi: It has developed into a unique platform for combining fashion and design. Our DNA is linked to art, architecture and photography, so participating is a natural extension of our identity. The perfect moment to present our Milanese soul with a global perspective. Over the years, we have collaborated with renowned brands and creatives such as Hans Ulrich Obrist and Patricia Urquiola, transforming our boutique and showroom into exhibition spaces. Design Week is the perfect way to connect with our community. Each edition gives us the opportunity to interpret our past and project our style towards the future. Design is an essential part of our identity, this fusion is embodied in our stores and offices, designed by architects such as Antonio Citterio. Our heritage, which includes innovation and material research, is expressed in our collaborations with brands such as Moroso and Fondazione Achille Castiglioni. Our commitment to responsibility has been underlined by our recent collaboration with Vetsak. Dirk, how important is the cross-pollination between design and fashion in your opinion?
Dirk Schönberger, Chief Brand Officer Vetsak: Since the early 2000s, the boundaries between design, fashion, architecture, music and art have become increasingly blurred and the disciplines inspire each other. This broadens the creative perspective for everyone involved. While these interactions lead to highly innovative results that push the boundaries of the respective fields, there is also a danger that such references become mere facsimiles that lack real innovation. However, in the collaboration between Aspesi and Vetsak, we have succeeded in transforming an abstract idea rooted in the heritage of both brands into a unique product.
Vetsak’s modular sofa and Aspesi’s parachute fabric merge for the Capsule Transformation (1). In addition to three sofas, oversized teddies are also part of the Capsule (2). One of the transformation installations during Design Week (3).
growin'
up
The coming of age of brands is a gradual, constant journey. There is a moment when visions become clearer, and character solidifies. How fascinating it is to watch maturity develop over the years! Yet staying young is equally tempting. Does fashion ever recognize age? This is especially true of our generation, where age limits sound like something from a bygone era that has long since passed its peak. Nobody needs pigeonholes anymore!
YYOU FALL OR YOU GROW!
“But when they said, ‘Sit down’, I stood up!” This is how Bruce Springsteen already summed up the fact that constant friction and resistance are at the heart of growing up.
Stephan Huber discussed with graffiti icon and artist MadC and Marco Götz, founder and owner of Drykorn, how to credibly meet the challenge of “growing up” as a company, as a brand and ultimately, as a person.
Artwork: Alexander Wells, @alexanderwells
Stephan Huber: Claudia, today you are not only an established artist, but also a brand. You grew out of a scene that is still perceived as a youth or counterculture. Tell us about this journey, which was summarized in the monograph “From Street to Canvas” published about you in 2021.
MadC: Funny that you should mention that! My tax advisor also thinks I should no longer see myself as a freelance artist, but as a brand. That has changed my perspective. I originally started with graffiti, which was very formative for me as a teenager. I was looking for my identity and wanted to challenge society. Then there was the fact that street art is a globally networked culture and community. It’s all very attractive if you come from a small town in East Germany. Over the years, I made a name for myself as a graffiti artist, locally, nationally and eventually internationally. It was an incredibly exciting journey. Not least as a woman in a very male-dominated community. But at some point, I realized that I needed to develop further. Graffiti has many rules and codes and I wanted to grow beyond them. So I started to work more abstractly and paint on canvas. That was a break with what I had done before, and some people were shocked or even turned away. On the other hand, I also gained a lot of new fans. Marco Götz: That’s an interesting parallel. You start with something, very consistently, you have a clear direction. Then you reach out to a wider and wider audience, consumers, followers or fans, and try to grow. Some people stand still because they don’t want change, so you have to decide how far you want to go and who to take with you. Because you can’t stand still - you have to evolve. The challenge as a company or brand is to find a balance that makes things credible but also commercially successful.
MadC: You either fall, or you grow. If you want to grow, you have to constantly evolve. You cannot and must not stand still. Maybe in the graffiti scene, but not in art. That’s exciting and challenging.
It’s exciting to see how you’ve maintained your essence while experimenting with new formats and media. Your identity and signature are always noticeable.
MadC: I have always remained true to myself during this long development process. I’ve also kept my name: MadC. Some artists change to their real names in galleries and erase their graffiti roots - not me. My graffiti past is crucial to my identity as an artist.
Marco, I’ve known Drykorn almost since the first pair of pants. Would you also say that you have remained true to yourself?
Marco Götz: The longer you’re in the game, the more you’re tested. I would often like to be much further ahead or be more radical. But how disruptive am I allowed to be as an entrepreneur and as a brand? What are my goals? What can I still achieve? And who can I inspire with all this? That is the real challenge. Over time, you lose the flexibility to try out everything. That’s also quite natural, because a company also needs to be able to plan. To break completely new ground, you might have to launch something completely new. But for starters, I do that under the radar for now. Like our art project “Copyshop”, for example.
MadC: It’s never just a personal journey, it also has an impact on your followers or customers and gets them involved. Not everyone joins in, but many are becoming more open due to social changes. The evolution of street art towards more figurative
styles has made it more accessible. In addition, the commercial potential of art has been recognized, especially in the USA. In Miami, for example, art has driven up real estate prices considerably, a phenomenon that can also be observed in places like Soho in New York. When art comes in, it enhances the whole area.
The fact that art enhances an environment is actually a very nice thought. At the moment, art often enhances fashion in very different ways.
Marco Götz: I’ve only been really intensively involved with art for about 15 years. Which I kind of regret, but before that I simply had a completely different everyday life. Initially, I found my way into art mainly through invitations to openings or from art institutions. But somehow, I didn’t feel welcome. The art scene seemed very distant, almost dismissive. I was simply a potential buyer, nothing more.
One formative experience was the 25th anniversary of Drykorn, which we celebrated together with the “Copyshop” art project as part of a truly extraordinary exhibition. Directly on the banks of the river Main in Frankfurt in the old customs building, next to the Städel Museum. That’s why we also offered young, up-and-coming artists space for an exhibition. Simply to do something cool together in an interdisciplinary way. Although we tried really hard and despite support from the Frankfurt Senate, the Städel ultimately turned us down. Because “our” artists didn’t have an academic degree. Almost 30,000 people attended our event, and everyone had a great time. There were also a lot of purchases. Crazy, isn’t it?
MadC: That’s very, very German.
And very very art scene... but this kind of elitist distinction is not entirely foreign to parts of fashion either.
MadC: The classical art scene is actually very elitist in its habitus. It’s always been that way. For a long time, people tried to marginalize the graffiti scene because they couldn’t control it. Control is extremely important in this business. Art should be as easily accessible as possible.
Have you found a way of dealing with that?
MadC: Somehow, I was always an outsider. Initially as a girl in the graffiti scene in the Deep East [of Germany], then again on my way into the academic art world. I was viewed with extreme skepticism, and I had to prove myself before I was accepted. In Germany, the situation is improvingthis year I am participating in two great exhibitions. One at the Museum Reinhard Ernst and the other at the Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt. But it was a hard journey. You need a thick skin and a modest ego, especially if someone questions your presence or intentions. Just stay cool, stand your ground and then everything will be fine. And it helps enormously not to be solely dependent on the acceptance of others. If I can’t exhibit here, I’ll just find space somewhere else. This independence is crucial.
I’m not a fan of terms like “democratic luxury” or “democratic art”, but I have to admit that new driving forces like AI are making art and creativity more accessible. How has this change affected you? And what do you think it means for society and its relationship to creativity?
MadC: It’s really fascinating because that’s exactly what I’m working on in my studio right now. In 2022, I released an NFT series with Heni in London. I teamed up with a programmer to develop an algorithm that paints in my style. But
I wanted it to be clear that although it’s my style, it’s not me. We also developed a second program that learns to generate its own titles. And a third program to read the pictures and match them with the titles. Now I have taken up this series and responded by painting canvases inspired by these digitally generated images. There will be an exhibition in London this year showcasing this ping-pong dynamic.
So you’re embracing it?
MadC: Yes, I’m embracing it. It’s reminiscent of the time when people thought television would replace radio. But new media complement the old, rather than replacing them. Vinyl records are still around, maybe not as many, but they’re still there. Deep machine learning, however, is another matter with unprecedented impact. But who are the consumers in the end? They are people. And in general, people appreciate what has been created by other people. We admire old cities, paintings, crafts, books, music. People who have mastered their craft, so to speak, whether in art, fashion or music, will continue to be in demand. Perhaps even more so than before.
Marco Götz: And yet another parallel... very exciting. With Drykorn, we have done all our lookbooks and most of our photo shoots with the same photographer for over 20 years. He has a collection of more than 35,000 images. We are now using a special algorithm to develop a Drykorn DNA from this huge archive. I have no idea what will come out of it, but I’m afraid it will be pretty good. I’m torn, because on the one hand I’m excited to see where this goes, but on the other hand I love the creative process with products, fabrics and people. Ideally it will all come together seamlessly, but I don’t know how that will work yet.
MadC: I can very well understand this inner contradiction, i.e., the fascination on the one hand and the question of controllability on the other.
What you’ve just described is somehow a completely new, explorative approach to your creative process.
MadC: I think it’s crucial not to simply be driven by the current transformation process, but to actively help shape it. AI-generated art, independent or fakes, is a reality. I have to face up to that. And I want to, because it’s always exciting to break new ground.
Omnisensoric experiences are the future, including the future of consumption. Recent studies show that over two thirds of GenZ and Gen Alpha prefer physical or hybrid experiences to purely digital ones. I am convinced that this is one of the reasons why Farfetch, Matches etc. ultimately failed so spectacularly. There was a lack of sensory or omnisensoric depth. Can new, immersive technologies such as Meta Quest or Apple Vision Pro compensate for or perhaps even enhance this?
MadC: That’s a very interesting question. Today, a picture on instagram simply doesn’t offer anywhere near the intensity of a 50-meter-high wall you’re standing in front of. And online shopping is hardly as impressive as an in-person shopping experience in a special place. These multi-sensory experiences are unique and shape us.
Marco Götz: Thank goodness that’s the case! The value of music has suffered massively due to its permanent availability on Spotify and other platforms. It’s similar with images: I have thousands of screenshots on my phone and no time to process them. We used to do very elaborate photo
campaigns with Drykorn. They don’t work at all on social media because they are too complex and not striking enough. If we do a mixed reality project instead, like a virtual scarf that is unrolled in front of KaDeWe: a five million reach. Pretty cool. But artistic standards are changing radically. Today, algorithms determine what we see. As a fashion brand, it’s hard for me to escape this. But art shouldn’t be dictated by algorithms.
MadC: And we shouldn’t make ourselves slaves to algorithms.
That’s quite a challenge. Nowadays, most people consume content on small screens, so art and fashion have to work in this format.
Marco Götz: No matter what format or medium, it’s always about credibility within the community you’ve built up. Claudia does this in an exceptionally authentic way on instagram. She always combines her art with her personality. It’s like watching a friend do cool things all the time. In fashion, it’s more difficult to maintain such a precise narrative.
MadC: Last but not least, fashion has to follow the human body, unlike my art where I can choose what I portray. In fashion, you are limited by the anatomy. Algorithms and video platforms like TikTok offer new ways, but the limitations remain. Fashion cannot surprise so easily; its form is predictable.
Stephy Fung, a fascinating digital fashion designer (see page 168), would now say that this is precisely why she loves the expansion of creative freedom in the virtual space. There she can break all these rules, just as art has abstracted physical, representational norms.
Marco Götz: In digital worlds like Roblox or the Metaverse, certain rules naturally don’t apply, which I am bound to with Drykorn. I have to sell physical products to real people. I can challenge my followers, i.e. the consumers, but not overtax them. It’s a different path with necessary compromises. I admire your creative freedom, which I as a company cannot exploit to such a radical extent.
MadC: I’m not completely free either. People know my style and who I am. If I suddenly do something completely different, I would have to integrate it into my brand or start again. We both have to take our audience with us if we want to make a living from it, even if my approach is freer.
Even if the term “commercial” has a bad reputation in art, you ultimately live off the people who are willing to pay for your work.
MadC: Exactly. Art has always been associated with commerce. That’s what made it art in the first place. Before that, it was a craft. I don’t see anything wrong with that.
Marco Götz: I don’t see anything wrong with it either. In fact, I think it’s great when someone creates something so cool that others are willing to pay for it.
MadC: I think there’s a difference between doing something to earn a lot of money and doing something out of passion and then making money from it.
Marco Götz: That’s something we both share. Of course, I also have to earn money, but I do what I do because I enjoy it. I love my work. I could probably stop now and make ends meet for a while, but I
enjoy the process - working on the product, bringing everything together, exploring new avenues and connecting with people. I do it because it makes me happy, not just for the money.
Perfect closing words. Thank you very much.
MadC, born Claudia Walde in Germany in the 1980s, is a leading urban contemporary artist with over 25 years of experience. She holds degrees in graphic design and has published three books on street art. Her 2021 monograph "From Street to Canvas" charts her career. Known worldwide for her luminous murals, she has painted for institutions such as the Sinkka Museum and the Dulwich Picture Gallery. Her roots in graffiti are evident in a dynamic, layered calligraphy that captures the essence of street art. Celebrated in major publications such as National Geographic and The Guardian, MadC's work transcends cultural boundaries. www.madc.tv, @mad_c1
Marco Götz is the founder of Drykorn, a successful, contemporary fashion brand that has made a name for itself internationally since its beginnings in 1996 with a consistent design and visual language. The passionate entrepreneur combines curiosity about the future, the courage to innovate and commercial value awareness.
Parallel to the consistent international development of Drykorn, Götz initiated the interdisciplinary creative project “Copyshop” together with Joachim Bosse in 2021, which combines fashion and contemporary art and promotes a challenging cultural dialog. www.drykorn.com
True Religion’s casually luxurious womenswear is much more subdued than the US brand’s image: On show at the Unifa showroom in Düsseldorf and at Trading Pool in Munich.
“We Have Ambitious Plans”
Are you still stuck with the age-old image of jeans with thick seams and a horseshoe in your head? True Religion womenswear, designed by the Unifa Group under licence for Europe, speaks a new language. How is this achieved without neglecting heritage?
Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: True Religion, Unifa Group
When you look at the current True Religion womenswear collection, it is clear that the US brand’s heritage is expressed in a completely different way. What is the strategy?
Reinhard Haase, CEO of Unifa Group: The European Exclusives have been evolving for several seasons now. The focus lies on the core competence of womenswear, which pursues high-quality standards with a clear style. We benefit from our expertise in denim, which we complement with ready-to-wear pieces such as tops, knitwear, blouses, and dresses. Feminine, sophisticated, and contemporary, they are much more understated compared to True Religion Originals from the US, which we also market in the DACH region.
What has changed?
Since acquiring the licence in 2016, we have adapted and further developed the European collection to suit our markets and customers. In the process, the desire for greater visibility of the current look was expressed. We are now satisfying these requests with casual modernity and elaborate details. We rely on the best materials in high-quality finishes for a luxurious look that is suitable for everyday wear.
True Religion’s success in the early 2000s was legendary, but in recent years the US brand has become less appreciated over here.
We encountered more of a problem with the US styles, which no longer pursued a consistent line. Nevertheless, we remained true to our line with the European Exclusives. We enjoy a strong positioning with the European collection and our licences, and we are proud to be part of a brand that has been on the market for over 20 years and is clearly regarded as a denim icon. The Originals by True Religion are currently celebrating their global comeback, and we intend to build on their success. Our priority is the specialised retail trade. It is important that we can react quickly to customer requests, and the growth in sales is already showing us that we are on the right track.
What are the next objectives for True Religion? How will the US True Religion Originals collection be delineated?
We wish to further develop both lines and are expanding sales separately. The Originals line is, however, clearly targeting younger people. Our collab with 6 PM, which we dropped in spring, has already provided a push. We are also feeling the popularity of True Religion in our womenswear positioning. We are having a great deal of fun, and we will continue to utilize our denim expertise while maintaining our focus on the customer. www.truereligion.de
True Religion
Reinhard Haase goes his own way for True Religion’s womenswear.
Setting Sail
K-Way has been part of Basic Net Spa Group since 2004, is celebrating its 60th anniversary next year, and has created an icon in the form of its packable windbreakers. Lorenzo Boglione, vice president of the parent company and managing director of the Italian label, reflects on growth and generational change. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Basic Net Spa
Basic Net Spa is turning 30 this year. That means the company has grown up, but still has a long way to go.
Lorenzo Boglione, Vice President of Basic Net Spa: Basic Net is now a solid company in all respects. We are no longer youngsters, none of us. (laughs) The numbers prove that we have never been in a better position. Admittedly, the markets are a little unstable at the moment, but that only spurs us on to build on the growth of the last ten years. Was this growth linked to you and Alessandro joining the company?
That is difficult to verify. I joined the company in 2010, as part of a natural process to contribute to the company that my father founded in 1994. Like all of us, I initially started in retail, then worked in business development, which suited me very well, and today I am also responsible for marketing and product development. My brother and I introduced a younger mindset, but never distorted the DNA of the brands (Kappa, Robe di Kappa, Jesus Jeans, K-Way, Superga, Sabelt, Briko, and Sebago). In the beginning, one out of ten ideas we had was realized. Today, we have a better success rate with nine out of ten. (laughs) “Piano, piano, senza fretta” (Slowly, without haste) is your father’s motto – yours too? What characterized your generational change?
Generational transitions fill books, and everyone can imagine that it is never a seamless process in practice. It is important to allow for compromises: the older generation must learn to accept the new generation in its entirety, and the young generation must learn to contribute unreservedly. It requires humility, which we have managed quite well so far. It was crucial that our father allowed us to make mistakes. But is the generational transition ever truly complete?
Which mistakes?
Many. Mistakes that you learn from should be considered normal and welcome in any corporate culture.
K-Way is a success story. Which direction is the brand heading in?
K-Way has experienced strong growth over the last decade. We indulged in experiments, for example a fashion show that lent the jacket high-end appeal. However, we recognized that rain jackets and windbreakers should also be represented in sports. We are now setting sail towards sports sponsorship with K-Way. This summer, we are the outfitter for the Orient Express Racing Team at the America’s Cup and sponsor surfer Leonardo Fioravanti. Athletes are the actual influencers.
K-Way is established, and even enjoys cult status, in many markets. What is the strategy for new countries? Yes, K-Way is an icon in many countries. Here in Italy, K-Way is synonymous with rain jacket. Wherever the brand is not such a self-seller, we act. In London, for example, we opened a store. In other countries, we are investing in communication. Anything to maintain growth.
K-Way was launched in Paris in 1965 as the brainchild of Leon Claude Duhamel. The brand was acquired by Basic Net Spa in 2004 and is represented in 27 countries. K-Way counts 112 flagship stores worldwide, with six new openings planned (London, Knokke, Chamonix, Taipei, Strasbourg, Aix-en-Provence). The brand’s bestseller is the Le Vrai 3.0 model - a rain jacket icon. The label started staging a fashion show at Milan Men’s Fashion Week in 2021.
K-Way
Lorenzo Boglione, Vice President of Basic Net Spa.
K-Way symbolizes a product icon.
K-Way sponsors the Orient Express Racing Team in the upcoming America’s Cup.
The men’s line has been featured at Milan Fashion Week since 2021.
Overwhelming response: Rossi.
Next generation: Tobias Schellenberger.
Evolution
Rossi is the latest collection to emerge from the Schera family business. Tobias Schellenberger explains how it has benefited Raffaello Rossi and Seductive.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Rossi, Raffaello Rossi Tobias, what impact has the new collection had on Raffaello Rossi and Seductive?
Tobias Schellenberger, Managing Director of Schera GmbH: A reciprocal dynamic has emerged. When we launched in 2023, our core brands provided the necessary foundation for us to be recognised. At the same time, Schera benefits from Rossi’s attention as a collection that lives the “new now”, where fashion is an expression of style and attitude that transcends gender boundaries. We have also gained new B2B customers for the core brands.
Is Rossi intended as a pilot project for the younger generation? Yes. My brother David is committed to digitization, while I have the urge to create something new. Rossi, however, quickly progressed from pilot project status. The response was so overwhelming that we now boast three great independent labels in our portfolio. Your parents already had plans to step away, but they continue to support you due to the challenging last few years. In what areas does their experience prove helpful?
They are a tremendous help in terms of fabric sourcing, production, and warehouse logistics. I am delighted to have my parents on board! In addition, my brother and I have developed a wonderful symbiosis within the family, which has allowed us to develop together in terms of digitalization, brand building, and desirability.
Where Does All the Energy Stem From?
Even after 50 years in the business, Erwin O. Licher remains a consummate entrepreneur. He tells us why his brand is successful, and what he hopes to pass on to young people.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Herrlicher
Other almost 80-year-olds resort to organizing their pills, yet you remain passionate about your job. Where do you draw your energy from?
Erwin O. Licher, owner of Herrlicher: In the 1990s, someone once told me that I had a natural drug. That was the era of techno drugs, which I did not need to energize myself. Maybe it is in my genes, but I still enjoy what I do.
That was palpable when we met at Shoes Düsseldorf and you unveiled the new Herrlicher shoe line.
Yes, I soaked up everything and learned so much there! I strive to provide excellent quality, including shoes. Herrlicher is currently doing really well.
Not many people can say that, especially these days. Perhaps we are successful because we are guided by what our customers need. Wherever I am, I observe people: what are they wearing?
I also study our pre-orders and repeat orders. My wife Christine Lambrecht, with whom I’ve been working for 25 years, and I usually arrive at the right decision. Sometimes the buyer presents an obstacle, but I remain stubborn, and a good buyer realizes that I am usually right (laughs)
You know all about disruption in retail. Which retailers will Herrlicher be working with in the future?
Over the past five years, retailers such as L&T, Grasegger, Engelhorn, and Breuninger have noticed us. We have worked our way in and know what they expect from us. The small retailers in small towns remain our most important customers. We supply 700 in total, but we still have not reached all of them.
What would you like to pass on to young people?
Do not let the market bend you. What is a guiding principle that people associate with me? We can do it.
Herrlicher
Raffaello Rossi
After Pash and Freeman T. Porter, he launched the Herrlicher denim brand: Erwin O. Licher, pictured here with his wife Christine Lambrecht.
FTC
Trust
and Solidarity
Jana Knezovic-Grau and Adrian Knezovic have been at the helm of FTC since 2017. We asked them how they handle this responsibility. Text: Claudia Jordan. Photo: FTC
FTC is considered a shining example in terms of generational handover.
Jana Knezovic-Grau and Adrian Knezovic: Generational handovers are very individual, involving factors such as company structure, personalities, and areas of responsibility that are difficult to compare. We were involved early on and complement each other perfectly. Our parents guide us, and they allowed us to gain our own experiences. Trust and solidarity are the decisive factors. How do you reinterpret the topic of sustainability?
We implement sustainability out of conviction, not as a strategy. Authenticity and a holistic approach are essential for credibility. Topics such as circularity have gained momentum, and we can see a trend towards platforms like “Good on You” being perceived as additional validation.
What influence does the younger generation have on the collection?
We feature total looks for men, new knitwear styles, and more oversized items. The zero-waste line Up-Cycling is in its second instalment. For women, we offer shapes inspired by the 1990s. Our capsule “Inspired by Ai - Designed by FTC” is entering its third cycle. Here, we use text-to-image generators and realize designs that are authentic to FTC. The fact that the pattern process is completely abandoned is particularly exciting; we move directly from the image to the sales pattern, thus creating an even more sustainable capsule.
Hola Formentera
As part of its branding and uptrading endeavours, the lifestyle brand from Varese prioritizes sensual experiences. The beach club takeover has now reached Ibiza’s sophisticated sister, Formentera. It is one of Managing Director and President Andrea Dini’s favorite projects, as it reflects his passion for seaside living. Restaurant Juvia on Formentera is sporting the Paul & Shark look all summer. In the heart of Es Pujols, the focus is not only on the restaurant and enjoyment: Paul & Shark also supports the local marine conservation initiative Vellmarì, a local organisation that has been dedicated to protecting the marine ecosystem for more than 30 years. Through this collaboration, Paul & Shark will actively contribute to the planting of 700 new Posidonia plants. The temporary furnishings of the beach club in the Paul & Shark look emphasize recycled and upcycled materials. The result is a genuine brand oasis: from the cushions on the chairs to the signature cocktails. As host, Paul & Shark also utilizes the beach club for their own purposes, inviting ambassadors and friends of the brand, as well as the press, to visit the location. www.paulandshark.com
New designs for sophisticated and relaxed looks.
The FTC management duo: Jana KnezovicGrau, Director Brand & Product, and Adrian Knezovic, Co-CEO.
Paul & Shark
Perfect backdrop: Juvia beach club on Formentera in Paul & Shark look.
“Retailers Provide Proof”
Launched as a pure D2C brand, Reternity is now selectively opening up to retailers. In an interview with style in progress, co-founder Lauren Riedel describes how wholesale, which accounts for 10 percent of sales, is challenging for the brand, and why it is nevertheless worth investing both manpower and brainpower in this area. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Reternity
Reternity goes wholesale. How does this align with the strategy and structure of a D2C-born brand?
Lauren Riedel, co-founder of Reternity: When we launched our first printed t-shirts six years ago, we had not given it any thought. Naturally, we repeatedly received enquiries from retailers, but we set the issue aside for a long time. That was until we started to selectively branch out into this area with the Sunshine Agency in Germany and Marcona3 in Milan. From the outset, we turned down more retailers than we accepted, even if it might have been commercially tempting. There is a clear market trend right now towards young Instagram or social D2C brands opening their doors to the wider retail sector. Our aim was to clearly distance ourselves from this and pursue a different path because, ultimately, money is not the most important factor for us.
What makes you appealing to retailers?
We are willing to share our customer data and have access to an exciting young target group for retailers, which we can also activate through our legendary events and parties. We always prioritize content that we can fully leverage before, during, and after the events.
What makes retailers appealing to you?
Brand building! These retailers lend credibility to our brand; they provide proof from the offline world that we are not a hype brand that disappears
just as quickly as it emerged. Being featured by a retailer like BSTN is a goosebump moment for us, as we have great respect for their selection.
Did you encounter any stumbling blocks?
Yes, we initially focused too much on catering to wholesale rhythms and almost forgot that we have a very young target group waiting for drops. Losing this youngest target group would have been a strategic mistake.
Do you have to deal with prejudices?
Perhaps it is difficult to properly categorize us, especially in Germany. We attach great importance to having an opportunity to communicate our long-term vision, and not simply being labelled as a streetwear brand from Germany. In other countries, we notice that we are a perfect fit in a well-balanced mix of sports and designer brands. We do not want to be pigeonholed, which is why we refuse to label ourselves. Perhaps accessible luxury is the right term, but in a way that allows us to be interpreted differently by each store. Our worst-case scenario would be to end up in the same space as all the other streetwear or D2C brands, because menswear is modern when it breaks down the boundaries of segments.
The typical look of Parisian street signs is an integral part of the brand identity.
Tom Schmidt and Lauren Riedel: Friends and business partners.
Reternity is characterized by high standards in terms of quality and aesthetics.
Elegant Simplicity
The Norwegian brand stands for jackets combining minimalist design with maximum functionality. Scandinavian Edition founder and creative director Eystein Wang develops increasingly cross-seasonal hybrid models, creates a NOS programme for bestsellers, and focuses on the autonomy of the womenswear collection. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Scandinavian Edition
Too cold in summer, too warm in winter. What shape will the jacket of the future take?
Eystein Wang, founder and Creative Director of Scandinavian Edition: Our approach has always been to design versatile, season-independent jackets for different temperatures and weather conditions. We are constantly innovating adaptable materials that are as suitable for warmer weather as they are waterproof and insulating. Depending on the degree of activity, layering should act like an intelligent technical thermostat. This applies equally to cycling, travelling, or even walking. A lightweight, breathable rain jacket as an outer layer, combined with a synthetic or down-filled inner jacket or gilet, offers protection for eight to twelve months of the year in many parts of Europe.
Do you envisage year-round models for certain regions in the future?
Definitely. We are witnessing a marked shift towards all-season garments and are developing even more versatile models that are tailored
to specific climate zones in Europe. These jackets and layering concepts are designed for the mild winters in southern Europe and the conditions in northern Europe.
What are the highlights?
We have added two new women’s pieces for milder transitional weather, as well as a larger proportion of independent styles featuring a modern, loose fit to complement the oversized look. On top of that, we now utilize lighter materials that improve breathability and stretchability without compromising on wind, rain, and cold protection, or durability for that matter. We are also extending the Loro Piana capsule.
How relevant are hybrid models?
Ultimately, a city commute is no different to spending time in the mountains or by the sea. You always need to be prepared for changing conditions. Classic 3-in-1 jackets have been around for a long time. Hybrid models are essential due to their year-round suitability. We now combine different fabrics and materials, e.g. for models with a synthetically insulated
torso, which are then complemented with woollen sleeves. These can be worn individually in milder weather and in transitional periods. In colder temperatures, they can still be worn as a base layer under a water- and wind-repellent hardshell.
Which features are particularly popular at the moment?
On the one hand, practical add-ons such as fold-down reflective elements. On the other hand, there is a desire for jackets that can be folded up compactly. The important aspect here is that aesthetics remain at the forefront. The practical features must not detract from the unobtrusive elegance.
What else is new?
Looking forward, we aim to provide reliable access to our bestsellers all year round. We are currently developing a NOS system which, in combination with occasional flash programs, will ensure continuous availability of the most popular jackets.
www.scandinavianedition.com
Scandinavian Edition
Weather protection and comfort – uncompromising premium outerwear, not just for Scandinavian weather conditions.
Eystein Wang prioritizes a fusion of outdoor function and urban design.
The Falcotto children’s brand developed into a global enterprise that now unites six brands under one roof. (1) – Voile Blanche is synonymous with ultra-light urban sneakers. (2) – Flower Mountain blends Japanese heritage with urban attitude. (3) – Candice Cooper: A high performer in the GSA region (4).
(Out)Growing Children’s Shoes
Five friends founded footwear company Falc S.p.A. 50 years ago in Civitanova Marche (Italy). Today – with six brands, 3,000 retailers, three own production facilities, 1,000 employees, and two million shoes produced per year – the company is among the most important players in the industry. style in progress spoke to CEO Salina Ferretti. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Falc S.p.A.
How did the founding of Falc come about?
Salina Ferretti, CEO of Falc S.p.A.: The company was founded in 1974 by Piero Luzi, still co-owner today, and his four friends. They had ambitious plans, starting by revolutionising the children’s shoe market. Until then, children’s shoes were limited to a few colours and designs, but then Falcotto came along with its fashionable, comfortable shoes in soft leather and colourful Italian design. It was equally remarkable that the five were focused on internationalisation right from the start. Naturino was added to the portfolio in 1988, and its innovative sand-effect technology helped to establish it as a leading children’s footwear brand.
This was followed by a move into the adult business. We at Falc love a challenge, so in 2004 we felt ready to launch the first label for adults: Voile Blanche. Our 220 model represented an ultra-lightweight shoe made of recycled Dacron. The material has its origins in the world of sailing and the collection was also inspired by the sport: an athletic urban sneaker for men and women, featuring a lightweight sole and Italian design. This paved the way into the adult segment, and new lines gradually followed: Candice Cooper, Flower Mountain, and W6YZ.
With six brands, you must have a favorite child. (laughs) We manage six very different brands. We also employ a brand manager for each label and they genuinely consider each other to be competitors – that creates a very healthy and enriching competition within the company. It is not easy to pick a favorite, but its huge success over the years may place Naturino at the top of my list. Yet Flower Mountain, with its Japanese style, is new and allows us to experiment a great deal. What were the most important lessons the company had to learn over the years?
That is a tricky question. Most lessons are associated with crises. They are very essential for growth. I suppose the hardest lesson we learnt was around 2008, when the financial crisis had shaken the markets and we were faced with the question of whether we wanted to continue on our growth path or not. In order to expand, we had to abandon the idea of producing everything in Italy and invest abroad. That meant laying off people in Italy, which was not an easy decision for us as a family business. Today, we are very fortunate to have opened production facilities in Serbia and Asia, as well as offices in New York and Shanghai. To use an appropriate metaphor: Growing out of our infancy involved growing pains.
Falc
Salina Ferretti – with the company for 30 years, CEO for the last five.
it's a
choice
Complexity is both friend and foe of creativity. Deep immersion in fashion is a source of incredible inspiration and the essence of every designer: uniqueness, novelty, exclusivity. Yet the downside of innovation frequently involves processes that are difficult to manage and squeeze margins and earnings. This is not always the case, however, as many companies prove that they maintain complete control over creative chaos in the supply chain. They even harness said chaos as a strength. Menswear has exchanged blind faith in trends for a new consistency. If every collection is the evolution of a style, it not only represents an active response to the actual needs of consumers, but also a means of combating overproduction through more precise planning.
“We do not produce 100 million cars and then take 30 million down to a landfill in Africa – yet in fashion we still do that,” says speaker, author, journalist, and digital pioneer Konrad Olsson. His trademark Scandinavian Mind is more than an online magazine; it is a network for digital transformation, which Konrad Olsson also drives forward as an investor and consultant to companies like the fashion-tech startup Impulso.
Scandinavian Mind
“Fashion Risks Becoming As Unpopular As Cigarettes”
Konrad Olsson is the founder of Scandinavian Mind, a Sweden-based hybrid of an online magazine and a brand consulting agency. At the same time, he is an entrepreneur, investor, and advocate for change through digitisation and data. style in progress spoke with him about real sustainability and the beauty of data.
Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Konrad Olsson
What challenge do you currently see as the most pressing in fashion, especially from a Scandinavian perspective?
Konrad Olsson, founder of Scandinavian Mind: I believe brands, retailers, and e-tailers across Europe are struggling to achieve sell-through, and there are countless reasons for this. However, the real challenge in our industry, in my opinion, is to bring clarity into data, not least because the new EU guidelines demand new transparency. On a macro level, still, no one knows how much clothing we produce each year, so overproduction is a fundamental issue. Especially with younger generations, who unlike us, do not feel that working in fashion is the most awesome thing you can do in your life, we risk a tobacco
moment for fashion, where it is perceived as something negative.
Do you think technology – or let us call it intelligence, because it is not just tech – can guide a way out of overproduction? I do. One reason is that we cannot solve some of these macro issues unless we have the data. The second reason is that there will be better tools to listen to the consumer and serve what he is actually demanding. This will bring better solutions for producers and the environment. To date, there are too many severe decisions based only on gut feeling. I am not saying gut feeling does not matter, especially in fashion. Yet in terms of ordering enormous amounts of goods from the other side of the world just to try to sell them with very scarce data – is that still commercially viable? I remain amazed that
an industry that is perceived as modern and at the forefront is absolutely one of our most traditional and conservative industries in terms of the way it works.
What are the reasons for that?
I think one of the reasons is that the industry has been both blessed and cursed with such high margins for so long. The reason brands can calculate with these levels of overproduction is, of course, because it works from a financial perspective. If it did not work from a financial perspective, it would not continue. It made fiscal sense to calculate with these overproductions and to stock up retail outlets and whatnot, it made sense to just push things out there.
Now with AI and all these new opportunities coming in, are we experiencing a Google moment, as in a chance to change the way this industry works?
I believe you do not need to look too deeply into the crystal ball; you can also learn a great deal from other things. For example, the business model of Shein and similar companies is actually worth a look. They produce in much smaller batches, much more precisely for actual demand – and therein (and of course in all the unorthodox production and working conditions) apparently lies such great potential for savings that Europe can be flooded with cheap ultra-fast fashion. Do not get me wrong, I find this model more
than reprehensible, but we also have to learn from our enemies and ask ourselves if precise forecasting of demand could help the good companies in fashion too. A few startups are already doing this, and I am curious to see what comes out of it.
Are there new business models that impress you?
My perspective has been changed in the past six months because there has been so much hope for new business models: renting clothes, resell, repair, fashion in the Metaverse, and fashion in gaming. I do think that has merit long term. Do we have to make garments last longer? Of course! Yet most of the excess in energy and waste is actually the industry’s fault. I am very sensitive towards initiatives that put the responsibility of fashion’s sustainability problem on the consumer only. We cannot ask all that of the consumer. We cannot ask that of a market that’s unreasonable. What is reasonable is, pardon my French, to get your shit in order. You are producing this stuff. You are ordering this stuff from factories and putting them on the market. If you do not know if this will sell or not, you are doing something wrong – so do not blame the customer for the outcome.
What will bring fundamental change?
The idea to industrially manufacture clothing and offer it four times a year under a new flag is relatively new, just about a hundred
years old. What a brilliant business idea! Yet when you look closely, there has been no disruption of this business model so far. We thought e-commerce would have the power to do things in a new way, but in the end, it just meant more of the same. Especially in the golden years of e-commerce, we witnessed an explosion of production of clothes, it nearly doubled. So, what we have not done is change the way we produce or wear clothes. We just amplified it.
Do you believe in digital fashion as one of the steps into the future?
I think it is a generational shift. When I think of my now 13-year-old daughter a couple of years ago, she just started buying digital goods within the environments that she spent time in, like Roblox and Fortnite. These are environments that she was not only gaming in, but where she actually connected with her friends. They met inside these worlds and hung out. I will never forget the one time she called me from her room saying: “Daddy, do you think I should wear this hat?” When I came into the room, she was holding her phone up, showing me her avatar. Yet she said: “Do you think I should wear this hat?” So, she equated the avatar with herself. That was her identity. Having said that, is there potential that, as we spend more time in digital environments, we bring some of our need for identity and expression that fashion fills into these worlds? Absolutely.
Konrad Olsson aka Scandinavian Mind has managed several magazines and today helps shape fashion tech start-ups such as Impulso as a spokesperson or investor.
Everything but Touch
What would that look like? Material for a new dress or shoe design is traditionally selected from a thick pattern book containing fabric samples. Swatchbook digitises this process. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Swatchbook
The journey from idea to shirt is littered with fabric and pattern samples that are ultimately binned. This, as well as the time and cost connected with shipping physical samples globally, could be avoided by using digital samples. Swatchbook provides designers with 3D videos and AR to help them test fabrics, knits, leather, and embossed prints. How translucent is it? Does it sparkle when moved? What would it look like on my shoe design?
“We are reducing the dependency on physical samples early in the development process,” says Thomas Teger, co-founder and CPO of Swatchbook. Like CEO Yazan Malkosh, he has a background in tech. Yet the company does not create virtual material samples. Manufacturers ship real fabric samples to one of the three digitisation centers in China, Japan, and India, where specialists have collected almost 200,000 fabrics by means of high-tech scans. This allows Swatchbook to solve at least one of the fashion industry’s digitisation challenges, for which suppliers lack the expertise, equipment, and time.
However, only around a quarter of the digitised material actually reaches the fabric library accessible to all subscribers. The reason lies in the fact that global brands have their own supply chain, says Teger: “These suppliers are not necessarily interested in selling a mere ten yards. They are looking for deals involving hundreds of thousands of yards.” Suppliers frequently collaborate with brands on specific designs to, for example, determine colors and patterns without wasting time and money on samples.
Such efficiency is only slowly gaining traction. According to Teger’s observations, the principle of “producing too much and throwing it away” seems more convenient to many than endeavouring to meet demand. With some exceptions, it is shocking how far behind the majority of the best-known fashion brands are in terms of digital transformation. Nevertheless, Swatchbook set up a European branch in Munich last year. “We cannot wait for the industry to catch up. We are ready to expand.” swatchbook.us
Swatchbook
A tech company that seeks to revolutionise fashion: Swatchbook.
All-In
Outsourcing was the success formula of this industry for many years: a collection was designed and then placed in the hands of many different parties who handled the processing, timely production, and delivery. Intransparency was the order of the day to protect sources and secure competitive advantages. Frequent changes were a way to maintain exclusive prices or expertise for longer periods of time. And now? Suddenly things seem very different.
Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Interviewees
The pressure is mounting. This is caused both by legislative measures – the incoming EU transparency laws will oblige companies to disclose their supply chains – and by the fact that the era of looking the other way has come to an end. The Italian authorities have placed part of the Armani empire, Giorgio Armani Operations Spa, under judicial administration on suspicion of labor exploitation. The accusation is that the company had not adequately supervised subcontractors to which it had outsourced its production. Chinese undeclared laborers in particular were employed there under exploitative conditions. In the best-case scenario, such judicial administration lasts a whole year.
This extreme example drastically demonstrates that old paths can be dead ends. “When Funky Staff closed down, my wife and I were very critical of ourselves and questioned whether we should have realised earlier that Pronto production in Italy had a face that nobody wanted to look into,” says serial entrepreneur Uwe Bernecker. For him, the disruption to the supply chain that he was accustomed to had far-reaching consequences. His successful Funky Staff label has had to be discontinued completely. “Towards the end, we suffered a chain of complaints of up to 30 percent and repeated delivery delays. In the years before, we were always the best in class in terms of value for money and delivery reliability. When both began to erode, we knew that we could not and would not continue in this manner.”
What has happened to the (European) supply chain? Rising resource prices, an exodus of skilled labor and expertise, and an entire generation of workers retiring with their talents are a major issue. New regulations and higher standards in production are also piling pressure on European competitiveness. This is compounded by a permanent shortage of funding in the fashion and textile industry. One manufacturer reports: “We had a fantastic production facility in Poland, but we were the only ones who paid our bill. The company with 160 employees ultimately had to file for insolvency.”
The cancellation of products or entire delivery dates is no longer an isolated occurrence. Whilst retailers with full warehouses are not always bothered by this, the other parties involved can rarely make up for lost sales.
Independence Equals Service
“We strive to be autonomous in our production planning to ensure that we deliver on time and in full,” says Gennaro Dargenio, founder of Circolo 1901. “I understand that this reliability is a top priority for our retail customers, and we need to do everything we can to guarantee this quality of service.” Yet another reason why the entrepreneur has developed a reliable network for the seasonal production of around 100,000 pieces in Romania. “It is virtually impossible to find suitable production partners at short notice these days. We have been loyal to our structures since 1999. As our order volume has grown so dramatically, however, we now operate at five different locations and employ around 450 people.” Indispensable in the creative process: “We need to be able to put our heads together and develop or change things quickly - such innovation simply cannot be limited by anything.” For Gennaro Dargenio, the benefits that the end consumer derives from consistency in the supply chain are self-evident: “Maintaining quality levels has become so important, as has the certainty that we can maintain our price-performance ratio - because once the end consumer has got to know us, they will return to our brand. Never disappointing this trust is our top priority.”
Venetian Tradition
As the example of Cruna shows, the classic model of collaborating with external manufacturing facilities is by no means impossible. The relatively young brand, which is committed to elevated casual, favors short distances in the cradle of Italian ready-to-wear: the Veneto. “Our strategy is based on pillars that have regained popularity: rigorous Made in Italy and short supply chains. We cooperate with renowned companies that have shaped Veneto’s reputation as a production hub,” says the brand’s CEO, Alessandro Fasolo. “Their expertise forms the foundation for our style, which combines innovative design with typical Italian stylistic features. We utilise very high-quality materials, and our direct line to the manufacturing facilities allows us to grow sustainably alongside these partners and never have to compromise on quality.” As a new player, it is essential that Cruna maintains its quality standards: “Cruna draws on the Italian tradition of ‘bel vestire’. The excellence of 100% Italian production and design characterize our brand: a modern interpretation of a timeless, sustainable, and yet extremely sophisticated wardrobe. Intuitive pieces that are light, comfortable to wear, and feature an urban look.”
Service and Dynamism
A New Face
“Our objective is clear: an end product that fulfils our quality expectations. I firmly believe that the advantage of in-house production is evident. We get to set our own standards and have direct control over every step of manufacturing right up to the final product.” According to Duno CEO Chris Wang, high-quality suppliers with spare production capacity are now in short supply in Italy. For his own brand, the innovative entrepreneur has therefore implemented a supply chain that is controlled at every stage by members of his family. “Manufacturing costs in Italy pose quite a challenge, but that is not the only issue we face. We are currently seeing large luxury groups and brands buying one independent company after another.” A smart strategic move if, like Chris Wang, you brought your supply chain under your own control long before LVMH or Kering embarked on a shopping spree.
The numbers that Alberto Zia quotes are impressive: the two Italian production plants of Botto Giuseppe Spa employ 350 staff, producing 1.2 million meters of fabric and 500,000 kilograms of yarn per year, on a total of 80,000 square metres. All this is achieved with 83 percent self-produced energy, more than two thirds certified primary materials, 45 percent recycled packaging, and 20 percent reclaimed water. This unique setting is the cornerstone of the Pin 1876 luxury scarf collection, one of the company’s flagship projects. “In-house structures are essential in a company that still relies so heavily on manual labour. High-quality Made in Italy demands special expertise and the fact that we operate on a completely vertically integrated basis is a real treasure,” says the entrepreneur. “Manufacturing in other countries, or even outsourcing, would jeopardise this unique position. Quality, speed, service, dynamism – these are the key values on which a company like ours should be moulded.” At the end of the day, Alberto Zia is convinced that this is what makes the noticeable difference in quality. However, he does doubt whether these benefits are always evident to the end consumer: “We invest a great deal in communication, but in my opinion still not enough to create awareness at the POS, or among end consumers. Yet in this respect, we practise the opposite of insourcing, which is essential in production, and for good reason. Communication is a task that we can easily outsource.”
leading position in premium fashion footwear is realised through visionary commitment: Andreas Klautzsch, Managing Director of Kennel & Schmenger.
“Craftsmanship
and Technology Make Us Competitive”
Anticipating challenges, acting with foresight, and prioritising quality at all levels is what Kennel & Schmenger is all about. By investing heavily in their Pirmasens site, the company has proven it is capable of shaping its own future.
Did people initially declare you crazy for investing as much as Kennel & Schmenger did in Pirmasens?
Strategically Early
The Cerretelli family controls an invaluable asset. Now run by the third generation, the brand was quick to realise that the special attention to detail and ingenuity that trouser specialist 40WEFT applies to its products is only possible within its own structures. Especially in the trouser sector, and in such innovative qualities and washes, experience is what sets you apart from the competition. The family is convinced: “Bestsellers and pillars of the collection cannot be developed overnight; they are all the result of a constant process of innovation and evolution that never rests. There is no aspect that we do not constantly tweak, no quality that we do not think about again and again to see if we can make it even better. We no longer need to create emotion through marketing, it is already embedded in our product, which is developed with so much love and passion.” The in-house structures also facilitate experiments that would almost certainly fail due to minimum quantities in external contract manufacturing. “Our customers are always impressed by 40WEFT’s huge range of colours, and the same applies to prints. As a result, we have become the go-to brand when it comes to imagination, colour, and emotion.” Last but not least: “It is more enjoyable to invest in our own structures.”
Andreas Klautzsch, Managing Director and CEO of Kennel & Schmenger: (laughs) Not exactly crazy, but it required persuasion. At the end of the day, everyone understood why we have to think ahead so radically and invest, especially in such times. We wish to be prepared for the future. Be it through the Supply Chain Act or possible CO2 emissions taxation – and I fully expect this to happen –it will pay off to have the processes under your own roof and be able to provide data at the touch of a button. We are currently completing the ISO certification process and are open to anything that combines our craft with technology.
The footwear trade is currently in a state of flux, with many brands endeavouring to find their way into the fashion retail sector, which has its own rules. How is Kennel & Schmenger responding?
We were quick to recognise this development and opened our first own store 15 years ago, because we concluded from numerous price-related discussions that the shoe trade would tend to move downwards rather than upwards in terms of price. There was criticism, of course, but today we run 22 own stores. We now realise that this also benefits our retail partners, as the stores increase brand awareness. Naturally, we also appreciate excellent retailers who allow us to present our products alongside other brands in our price segment. The problem is that the number of such partners is dwindling, and if one of them disappears, it is not easy to find a replacement in the shoe trade. We are glad to be represented in the fashion trade, but they are completely different worlds, with different processes and logics. It takes a great deal of mutual understanding for both sides to enjoy a win-win situation.
His ambition to occupy Europe’s
Open doors: 600 people recently attended the open house event at the plant in Pirmasens.
Integrity Is Key
Strong sales figures inspire a positive mood. In an interview with style in progress, Goldgarn founder Kerem Özcelik explains why things are going well.
Denim is really hot again. A good time for Goldgarn?
Kerem Özcelik, founder of Goldgarn: Definitely. We have had a fantastic season, exceeding our expectations. The orders were strong, but – above all – the sales are going exceptionally well, especially in terms of womenswear. Our warehouse is practically empty. That soothes the soul.
The truth always lies in the sales figures… I am completely on board with you there. The sales figures are the most important factor, and they reflect the success of our approach. Our philosophy is all about understanding the retailer’s perspective. We have been in retail since my parents opened the first jeans store in Mannheim in 1975, on no more than 10 square meters. That shaped us. We understand the customer, because we have stood on both sides of the counter.
Resource issues, responsibility, environment – these topics are particularly important for denim, not least economically. How does Goldgarn approach these?
Integrity is key. Denim production is resource intensive. Instead of
greenwashing, we have taken concrete steps. We invest in certified fabrics from renowned suppliers, such as Bossa and Isco, and pay premiums for traceability. We also donate a portion of our revenue to charitable projects through our own Goldgarn Charity initiative, which focuses primarily on water initiatives.
Because denim uses so much water?
It is our obligation to address this issue directly. Our customers can scan our products to explore the water projects we support, be it in Kenya, Mali, or Bangladesh. By working with organizations like Help Me or WIR – Water is Right, we can make a real difference. Even if it may seem like a drop in the ocean, every effort counts.
We are currently realising our third regional art collaboration with up-and-coming artist Timi Rössing. We not only sell the charity shirts ourselves, but also through our retail partners. This enables us to generate additional income and, at the same time, support up-andcoming artists in our home city of Mannheim.
The soul of Mannheim: Kerem Özcelik, founder of Goldgarn.
Goldgarn has had a successful season; the warehouses are empty. Denim is hot.
Consistency Is the New Sexy
Alberto’s latest campaign was shot in a Richard Neutra house. This will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Marco Lanowy’s passion for consistency. The motto of the Alberto campaign has been Cool Germany for a decade, and the model and photographer have accompanied the brand for just as long. “We created a compilation of the best photos and videos from the ten years, and you can see the common thread that runs through all these years,” enthuses Managing Director Lanowy. Similarly consistent are the reliability of the collection, loyalty to manufacturing facilities, and innovation through active market listening. “We will not be discussing innovation much this season, as it has become part of Alberto’s soul,” says Lanowy. “We have always attached great importance to reliability in every respect and have long since begun to establish a process-oriented mindset within the company. As a result, we make few mistakes and get plenty of things right – yet we do not take either for granted. This vigilance characterizes our team.”
Was it a perfect solution to commit the entire supply chain in the long term? “Any other approach to business would not be compatible with our philosophy. For us, long-term loyalty to all our partners is a core value that we, as a family business with more than 100 years of history, have firmly entrenched in our philosophy. It is this trust that makes the constant product evolution, for which Alberto is known and appreciated, possible. A generous serving of reliability paired with innovation and emotion is our promise.” If he had one wish? “I wish the market paid just as much attention to these values when selecting its partnerships.”
Quality-Conscious Decision
“Lodenfrey has always manufactured its own products and has been doing so in Romania for 20 years,” says Lodenfrey Managing Director Leonard von Pfister, highlighting a second Romanian factory opening under his stewardship. He considers these facilities to be the backbone of the brand, along with the 125 employees at the heart of operations. The responsibility of maintaining a 180-year history and highest quality standards is fulfilled. Leonard von Pfister identifies clear advantages in optimal quality assurance, easier monitoring, and flexibility, but he acknowledges the time and financial costs involved – especially during non-production phases when the factories are not fully utilised. Punctual delivery safeguards the reliability of the brand and is another important benefit for the managing director. According to Leonard von Pfister, the EU supply chain law only has an indirect bearing on Lodenfrey’s cooperation with major partners, but it does exert tangible pressure.
Gut instinct and brain power in harmony: Leadership as practised by Marco Lanowy.
Alberto’s shooting location: one of the few Richard Neutra houses in Germany.
The Perfect System
Michaela Sassenbach had one key objective right from the outset: maximum flexibility and freedom for her retail partners. Consequently, the German designer invented a system that is rare in the fashion industry. Sassenbach imposes virtually no restrictions on orders. A minimum order does not exist, neither in terms of quantity nor investment. Retailers are free to start with a small order program before reordering at their leisure at a later date. This prevents cluttered clothes rails and overcrowded storerooms, while simultaneously building trust. How is this possible? The secret lies in a clever company structure, including a close partnership with a manufacturer in the Swabian Alb. Founded by a young seamstress, all Sassenbach collections are manufactured there and dispatched directly. Every repeat order ends up there too, to be produced within two weeks. “I am proud of how successfully we have both evolved. This progression also connects us on a personal level,” the designer says about the partnership. Organic growth, incidentally, also characterizes the style of the collection. “Classic jersey remains our signature material, but prints, denim, and knitwear are now also part of our collections,” says Michaela Sassenbach.
Portugal – The European Manufacturing Hub of the Future
“Portugal is the first-choice destination for clothing manufacturing in Europe for so many reasons,” emphasizes Dirk Nienaber, owner of Marlino Porto Lda. Under “Private Lab”, the production office in Porto offers a comprehensive service encompassing the procurement of fabrics and ingredients, sampling, placing orders with the production facilities, quality control, and delivery. Anyone wishing to produce and source in Portugal can choose between full service or agency service. An established network of factories – as well as Portuguese, German, and English-speaking employees on site – guarantee smooth workflows, regardless of whether customers opt for partial or full-service packages. “Brands, retailers with private labels, creators, start-ups, merchandisers - our clients are diverse,” reveals Nienaber. Alongside woven goods – primarily blouses and dresses – jersey, and knitwear, the network also has experts in ready-to-wear clothing. “The standards in Portugal are exceptionally high and, above all, vertically organised; you can source fabrics, ingredients, and sewing operations in all facets. Fair, legally regulated wages and state-of-the-art factories with high sustainability standards impress our customers. Business in Portugal is very promising. Our tried and tested structures, combined with the factories’ eagerness to deliver, create security on all levels,” says the entrepreneur. The potential is enormous.
Marlino has set up a production office north of Porto.
Designer Michaela Sassenbach.
Photo: AlphaTauri
Somewhere between an impressive sense of reality and more freedom than it has ever enjoyed, menswear is undergoing a transformation. All boundaries between formal, sports, and streetwear are obsolete. Success depends on placing the consumer at the heart of everything.
Text: Martina Müllner.
Same, Yet So Very Diff rent
Let’s start with some good news: the economic data for the European menswear market indicates a stable growth trend. According to a Statista study, sales of menswear accounted for around 27 percent of the total clothing market in Europe in 2023, which corresponds to around 87 billion Euros. A McKinsey & Company survey predicts that the global market for menswear will reach a volume of 550 billion US Dollars by 2025, which translates into an average annual growth rate of 4.4 percent.
UNIFYING INSTEAD OF DIVIDING
The evolution of men’s fashion can be felt everywhere: on catwalks, in offices, on the streets. Formal and athletic elements are merging, inspiration is drawn as much from historical archives as from the street. Origin, job, status, gender – what relevance do all these aspects still have? Restriction has been abandoned. The idea that a suit is exclusive to the office – or shorts exclusive to leisure time – is considered a notion from another era. A variety of forces have facilitated this change of mindset. New social rules mean that even the most powerful politicians of the world now meet in casual attire. Coat and tie have been left by the wayside. Nevertheless, a new
desire for suits is returning, as if the pendulum were also swinging in the opposite direction. With unprecedented creativity, men are utilising the diversity of clothing to find fashionable expression for special occasions. “When he wants to express attitude” is when a man reaches for a suit, says Roy Robson’s Director Brand & Product Sven Brüggemann. Changing three times a day is equally a thing of the past. Alessandro Sartori, Creative Director of Ermenegildo Zegna: “Our collections reflect the lifestyle of the modern man, who transitions seamlessly between the office, leisure, and social occasions.”
AWAKENING THROUGH DISRUPTION
Has menswear really changed that much? “In the last seven years, more has changed in menswear than in the previous thirty,” says Ottmar Zwicker of the eponymous menswear outfitter on Lake Constance. “We all remember entire walls covered in the colours grey, blue, and black.” Many have lost all desire for a classic core department, at least when their business wishes to address more inspirationally inclined customers. “For all our enthusiasm about new concepts, we must never forget that we are still primarily catering to on-demand customers. The visual message of having plenty of trousers in stock
for customers remains the correct strategy for this target group,” says Thorsten Grönlund, the new managing director of trouser specialist Hiltl.
SPECIAL OR SPECIALIST
The distinction between the terms special and specialist is an exciting question. Be it A.P.C., Norse Project, A Kind of Guise, Butcher of Blue, NN07, a whole range of up-and-coming complete collections demonstrate that you can roll out your individual expertise from hats to socks. With a great deal of thought, these collections are not only coherent in themselves, but also remain stylistically consistent over many seasons, so that immersing yourself in the brand becomes a wardrobe-building experience. Consistency beats trends, style beats fashion. An idea that also influences many specialists and reaches its peak in mono-product brands. GTA, Phil Petter, Mey Story, 40WEFT, Daniele Fiesoli, Traiano, Tom Ripely, Fil Noir – life is particularly pleasant in the niche of one’s own expertise. In both cases, the place where everything is harmoniously combined is of essential importance. The second piece of good news concludes: These men want to go shopping, experience advice, and engage with sales staff as equals.
He cultivates a passion for the style and ironic elegance inherent in the Tom Ripley brand: Founder and managing director Wolfgang Müller.
TOMBOLINI “CASUAL, CONFIDENT, SINCERE”
In-season is gaining in importance. In the suit segment, suppliers who do not rely exclusively on pre-orders are coming out on top. How do you handle these developments?
Silvio Calivigioni Tombolini, Head of Marketing & Communication at Tombolini: Responding efficiently to customer needs has been our priority for years. The most important factor is our NOS service. Icons such as the Zero Gravity models, the more formal suits, and the TMB Running series are always available and can be delivered to all European retailers within three days. We have also managed to guarantee that we can re-produce a large percentage of our seasonal models. Service is the foundation for building solid and lasting relationships with partners.
What micro and macro trends have you identified, and how do you implement them?
Fashion has changed a great deal in recent years, and our design department is prioritizing convincing designs in terms of everyday use, comfort, durability, and quality. We are witnessing a comeback of the classic era,
featuring a casual, confident, and sincere look. Sartorially manufactured to a high standard, the sense of security it exudes is a value in itself. With Zero Gravity, we have been modernizing the classics from the inside for the past ten years, making readyto-wear seem lighter.
Menswear boundaries are breaking down, especially in terms of presentation at the POS. What does that signify?
Our products have to hold an iconic status. For me, this entails delivering clear added value. In the case of TMB Running, it is the ultimate freedom of movement and adaptability to different silhouettes due to stretch materials.
TOM RIPLEY “QUALITY IS ALLOWED TO BE EVIDENT”
With the novel character Tom Ripley, you picked a man for whom being welldressed is a matter of course. Have you noticed a new clothing culture (even) in our country?
Wolfgang Müller, owner of Tom Ripley: Blanket answers are always difficult. We definitely believe that men are becoming more interested in fashion, presumably
Thanks to Torsten Müller’s Room Nine Agency, Tom Ripley has taken an important step forward on the German market.
driven by social media and the need to present themselves.
Do you think the hidden qualities of Tom Ripley are the deciding factor, or rather everything you see and feel at first glance?
I believe in the obvious. Qualities such as terry, bouclé, and modern retro knit polo shirts and blazers, some of which were already sold out in mid-May, are something we are now systematically expanding at Tom Ripley.
You have a European vision and intend to achieve success outside the DACH region. Does this place new demands on the collection and design, or does a pan-European style apply?
We have a keen eye on Scandinavia and Benelux, and even had our campaign shoot in Sweden. I am convinced that Tom Ripley’s message has matured and become so international in recent years that we will be able to tackle these markets next year at the latest. By the way, in Switzerland we have gained an experienced and well-connected agent in Thomas Raue in Zurich.
At the cutting edge: Tombolini.
Quality and a keen sense of trends are the key elements of Antony Morato’s spring/summer 2025 collection.
“Every season represents a new start for both retailers
Christian
Fenske
ANTONY MORATO URBAN INSPIRATION
How important is flexibility for Antony Morato in the fast-moving fashion business?
Lello Caldarelli, CEO and Creative Director of Antony Morato: Flexibility is a cornerstone of our philosophy. The fashion industry is highly dynamic, and trends shift quickly. We maintain a balance by manufacturing garments that are in line with seasonal trends, yet can also be combined with iconic pieces, while still representing the heart of the brand. Which trends impacted the spring/summer 2025 collection and how were they implemented?
Our creative concept, which can be summarized as Urban Exotica, fuses constructed and technical elements. Travel also plays an important role. Each mood in the collection is linked to a specific city, from which we draw characteristic shapes, elements, and colors to incorporate into our garments. For 2025, these cities are Marrakesh, Jakarta, and Ho Chi Minh City. We associate Marrakesh with a Mediterranean atmosphere in terms of color nuances and soft shapes. Square pockets, metal zips, and drawstrings are reminiscent of the working world and Jakarta, while
bright splashes of color in minimalist and sophisticated styles are inspired by Ho Chi Minh City.
What is your mission statement?
Our designs blend casual and formal styles, creating versatile garments that are suitable for a variety of occasions. Yet they are also the result of fusing innovative design and contemporary trends. By doing so, we strive to make fashion more accessible to our customers.
DRESSLER “EACH SEASON REPRESENTS A NEW START”
Made-to-measure and repeat orders continue to play a major role in the menswear business. Does this also apply to Dressler?
Christian Fenske, Head of Design at Dressler: Yes, we offer a year-round stock service program that many customers use. Madeto-Measure is an equally important aspect of our history. Dressler celebrates its 95th anniversary this year, and the values of founder Eduard Dressler remain alive today. Made-to-measure is being steadily expanded and we are pushing ahead with digitization to simplify handling for customers.
Are fashion brands valued less if they are successful in repeat orders and bestsellers?
Even a bestseller can be fashionable! The key to success is to liaise closely with retailers right up to the reorder stage. This makes the offering at the POS all the more compelling. Post-pandemic, ready-to-wear rose like a phoenix from the ashes, fuelled by special occasions.
Correct, occasion wear has regained market share due to revenge shopping. In terms of fashion, we are witnessing a return to the classic suit, which we also interpret in a much more modern guise: more comfortable and casual, with jackets in soft versions and lighter, washed qualities that make them more versatile to wear. This diversifies the classic style and allows us to contribute our expertise. The end of ready-to-wear is by no means in sight, especially as every trend creates a counter-trend. So, if gorpcore celebrates outerwear, the suit is equally justified as a counterpart.
www.eduard-dressler.com
Reduce complexity, strengthen brand essence: The mission of Hiltl’s management duo Thorsten Grönlund and Roland Strauss.
HILTL “FOCUS IS KEY”
Reordering capability and in-season orders have become major sales factors. Is it possible to combine fashion level with a stockable product?
Thorsten Grönlund, Managing Director of Hiltl Hosenmanufaktur: That is a question of prioritization, which varies from retailer to retailer. Our strategy is to ensure that items that retain relevance over an entire season are also available from stock. At the same time, we maintain a pool of trend themes. These seasonal one-off themes can evolve into basic items, depending on their success. How do you perceive the significant transfer of risk and financing of merchandise to manufacturers?
Business models, especially for basic items, have changed fundamentally over the last ten years. We have adapted accordingly. Wherever it is economically viable to maintain warehouses, we do so. The important factor is to ensure effective planning in collaboration with retailers. What would you wish for as a manufacturer?
Do not be afraid of transparent data exchange! The better we know our sales, the more efficiently we can restock.
What are your priorities as the new management duo at Hiltl?
Reducing complexity. There are too many models and variations that even our retailers cannot always understand, let alone end consumers. Instead, we would like to emphasize our brand expertise. We have been manufacturing trousers for 70 years and are among the very best. That is our value, which deserves to be at the heart of the brand. This means that we intend to discontinue side projects to bring back brand accessibility with entry-level models in an appropriate price range.
ROY ROBSON
“EXPRESSING ATTITUDE”
“I am convinced that a competent event range is beneficial to the brand building process,” says Sven Brüggemann, Director Brand & Product at Roy Robson. “This expertise allows us to accompany our customers in the happiest moments of their lives.” It is always lovely to treat yourself to a special outfit for a wedding, celebration, or night out. “There is a broad spectrum between three-piece suits with lace-up shoes and hoodies with trainers,” he smiles.
“From our more than 100-year history, we are suit-orientated and formally driven, but more open than ever to celebrating the new desire for fashion with consumers and retailers,” says Brüggemann. “We represent the first generation of men who no longer regard ready-to-wear as a must, which allows for a much more playful approach.” When does this man reach for a suit in this new work reality? “When he wants to express attitude,” Brüggemann asserts. The design premise could be described as backbone without stiffness: soft jersey fabrics, only slightly constructed shoulders, bold design, and plenty of concealed comfort. Versatility is yet another crucial factor. “We think in sets. Our trousers need to work with a blouson, and a double-breasted suit with gold buttons needs to work with a t-shirt underneath.” He considers the suit, in which a jacket and trousers look lost without each other, to be a dated concept. “We consider this an opportunity because outfits give us the chance to extend our brand impression.” One concrete example: colored suits, which were presented with colourful turtleneck jumpers in pop-up areas in autumn. “This earned us knitwear
After working for Adidas and Boss, Sven Brüggemann joined Roy Robson in 2017 as Director Brand & Product, working alongside family entrepreneur Frederick Westermann, who has channelled more than 100 years of tradition into the future.
credibility because the turtlenecks sold well. This is our way of earning the trust of our retail partners.” Not to mention the reliability that has become a pillar of the brand thanks to its own production facility in Turkey and in-depth expertise in NOS and reordering. “Perhaps our most important argument against the interchangeability that is inevitable in this industry,” surmises Brüggemann.
TAGLIATORE SOFT SILHOUETTES
Creativity, bold fashion, the pleasure of a really great suit – that is what Tagliatore embodies. How has the target group for this type of ready-to-wear clothing changed in recent years?
Pino Lerario, Creative Director at Tagliatore: Men’s demands have changed, and therefore our designs have redefined the concept of ready-to-wear. Today, the male wardrobe consists of softer silhouettes. The aim is to offer versatile looks in which unstructured blazers are combined with trousers featuring fluent lines.
On an international level, we are experiencing two megatrends. One is the comeback of the formal, the other a trend
towards comfort without restrictions. How can Tagliatore reconcile these two trends?
Our collections combine aesthetics and comfort. Jackets and outerwear are at the heart of the brand. I am very demanding, so the cut needs to be impeccable. These days, blazers are even worn with trousers with jogging waistbands – as long as they are stylish.
What do consumers expect from a brand? Constant innovation or consistency in cuts, shapes, and fit?
The answer lies in striking a balance. Staying true to your own DNA is essential. We offer quality, innovation, and reliability; the ability to continuously evolve is key to our success. We have always been experimental.
RRD “IT’S A NO-BRAINER”
RRD is seen in many countries as what it truly is – an urban collection that meets all day-to-day demands. Yet in Germany, you are pigeonholed as outerwear. Why?
Roberto Ricci, founder of RRD: Honestly, I don’t know. (laughs) The brand has evolved, but sometimes my water sport roots push us into the performance corner. I’m happy about
every customer who views the collection without prejudice. I’m convinced that we occupy a niche like no other collection. Which niche is that?
Part of the challenge is that there’s no term for our type of fashion. We use innovation and function to give the modern man, who is always on the move, an elegant appearance and the utmost comfort. Modern, reduced, sharp, yet untailored, because our fabrics don’t require tailoring.
In what ways are you Italian, and in what ways international?
Undoubtedly Italian in our unwavering belief in style. No matter how high-performance a pair of pants is, they should still look great and flatter the figure. International in all other aspects, especially in our internal structure.
Describe your kind of store.
We perform best once we are presented in stores capable of conveying our values of detail, quality, and innovation by providing consumers with an experience that showcases the extreme comfort and durability of our garments.
The jacket is the centrepiece of the brand.
24/7 wardrobe for a man who is constantly on the move: The intention of RRD designer Roberto Ricci.
“WE ARE NOT HERE TO FLOOD THE MARKET”
The Danish brand NN07 is emblematic of a new breed of menswear brands that prioritize style over fashion. Founder and CEO Anders Rahr and CSO Jonas Bach have always focused on the consumer and their needs. The key to the brand’s success is to listen, and to reflect their desires. Moreover, NN07 celebrates an emphatic commitment to the specialized retail trade. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: NN07
Is NN07 a philosophy, or a fashion brand?
Anders Rahr, CEO of NN07: For us, style and philosophy are inseparable. What you call philosophy, we call values. Style and values are connected. That is why we identify as a lifestyle brand, because we represent a decision on how to live your life. As NN07, we have chosen to live by very strong human values: being open-minded and celebrating diversity. That translates to fashion for the modern man, who is comfortable in his own skin. He wants to embody a style that is easy-going and wearable both at work and after work, without having to change. This life without borders is not only about traveling around the world, but also about disregarding everyday limitations.
Jonas Bach, CSO of NN07: Demand is also very closely linked to a trend. We cannot separate ourselves from demand. It is all about listening to the consumer and what they are looking for. Yet we strive to avoid pigeonholing the consumer. Yes, we have a target group, but consumers wish to explore. Our brand invites them to do so.
The key aspect is consistency?
Jonas Bach: Yes. One season may be defined by super-oversized, loud, and baggy styles, but consumers desire consistency. How do you explain that one season looks like this, yet the next looks completely different? Consumers wish to feel safe with a brand, and our job is to give them that feeling. We help them create a beautiful wardrobe that has all the essentials in place. Our definition of value-for-money entails that the pieces are made to last. Like a fine wine, our clothes should improve every year.
Anders Rahr: We need excellent retailers to show consumers what we do and what we stand for. The only way to get those retailers is to treat them as best-in-class. We draw inspiration from the best local retailers. They are more important than anything else, because they are the best storytellers and translators.
Jonas Bach: It is all about consumers and our retail partners. This approach differentiates us from other fashion brands, even
brands in general. We are not a push company, but a pull company. We enjoy growth, but not excessively. It needs to be organic – what comes fast, goes fast.
How many retailer partners do you have worldwide?
Jonas Bach: Around 600.
Are you happy with that number? Where do you see room for sustainable evolution?
Jonas Bach: Our strategic approach is to grow and evolve with our retail partners. We are not in the business of flooding the market. We invest our time in understanding consumers, retailers, and local communities – that is our focus.
Anders Rahr: Consumers enjoy buying brands they cannot find everywhere. They desire a feeling of exclusivity. When they travel, which they do frequently, they should be able to find us in similar stores in the US or UK as in Germany.
No longer listening to customers and partners killed the spirit of many big brands, especially coupled with the arrogance
Anders Rahr (left), founder and CEO of NN07, has Jonas Bach – formerly of G-Star – at his side as CSO. The latter is a great advocate of multi-brand retail. “There is always a good reason why we collaborate with a particular retailer, and we never forget that reason, even if a second retailer in that city is really keen to stock our brand.”
“Listening to the consumer is our absolute priority.”
Anders Rahr, NN07
of a brand claiming to know better what customers and retailers should wear and buy. That top-down thinking surely has no future?
Anders Rahr: I agree completely. We strive to be a brand that has your back, keeps you comfortable and confident. At the same time, we are a brand that offers options to express your individuality if you desire to do so. Even then, we have your back.
Jonas Bach: One of the biggest changes is that a 15-year-old can wear the same as a 75-year-old. The older generation has evolved most; they are much more open-minded. Consumers know good quality from bad. That is the common denominator, not the interest in fashion.
Yet we are still working in the fashion industry. How do we ensure that people fall in love with such – sorry for using the term – elevated basics? What triggers that must-have feeling for such pieces today?
Anders Rahr: I believe the answer is extraordinary attention to detail. We invest so much hidden effort in design and all the small functions. We spend a great deal of time choosing the right button functionality, the length of a t-shirt or jacket. We strive to ensure that you can jump on your bike in our long jacket and live your everyday life in our clothes. That is how we make people love our products. You only truly love products in which you can sense effort and attention in every detail. I am curious to hear if it has become harder to pay so much attention to all these details in an era of disruption to product planning and sourcing.
Anders Rahr: It has always been difficult, but I feel you always have a choice to make. You can either spend less time and do things faster, or you can plan your way out of a crisis. Planning provides peace of mind. We decided to be more structured to reconcile creativity and attention to detail with
longer lead times. This allows us to maintain standards despite the windows being much tighter now than five years ago.
Jonas Bach: A couple of years ago, our collections were twice the size as now. Focusing on smaller collections allows us to spend more time on each garment. That has positively impacted our development process. Let us talk about your wholesale strategy. You maintain in-house teams in many countries. Was that a deliberate choice?
Jonas Bach: We chose the best people. If the best person or company is an agent, they become our agent. If they prefer to be on our payroll, then we do that. We do not treat agents or employees differently. They are all family, and we give them all the same levels of attention.
Anders Rahr: If a label wishes to evolve into a brand that is taken seriously, it needs to show and prove that it is capable of controlling distribution. Yet again, you need to be consistent.
No Nationality and the year in which the brand was launched result in the abbreviation NN07. In the 17 years since it was founded, the Copenhagenbased company has gradually gained 600 retail partners worldwide.
UNION JOINT EFFORT
The sixth edition of the invitation-only ordering event takes place from the 30th of June to the 2nd of July 2024 at Kühlhaus am Gleisdreieck in Berlin. Launched three years ago featuring 15 brands, the portfolio for the upcoming edition includes more than one hundred labels. The name speaks for itself: Union is all about putting common interests into practice – from the selection of participants to invitation management. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Union Showroom
“Union is an exclusive working platform for people who are focused on buying and selling menswear in the high-quality niche,” explains initiator Felix Engelmann. Over the last two seasons, the event has experienced a steady increase in international visitors from Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Australia, North and Central America, and many European countries, who come to work undisturbed and without distraction for three days in a relaxed atmosphere. On the newly developed ground floor, the Denim Factory area makes its debut this summer as a platform for numerous innovative brands from the Japanese
and American indigo culture scene. As usual, the Union Showroom area on the first to third floors of the massive brick building features a wide range of high-quality menswear and accessories.
“When curating the brands, we always have the customer in mind: 30-plus, passionate about finding the right products that suit them and each other – a healthy mix of denim, wool, and a touch of function – and certainly a few customers with an interest in adult streetwear or sporty sneaker accounts. Union’s medium-term goal is to offer retailers
a platform on which they can effectively and easily place around 50 percent of their budget within just a few days a year,” says Engelmann. Another new feature is the “Only By Appointment” area on the fourth floor with its own reception counter, where brands and customers can conduct their business undisturbed and exclusively by appointment from 10am to 7pm every day. @unionshowroom www.unionshowroom.com
Five floors for talking shop and igniting enthusiasm.
Union is about conducting business passionately with like-minded people.
Due to popular demand: Fil Noir Uomo is expanding its range to include business shirts.
FIL NOIR BLACK LABEL
Heiko Storz and his Swiss Hest GmbH have some great news concerning Fil Noir. “The Finest in Casual” is gaining an elegant brother in Black Label: Business shirts that claim to be “The Finest in Business”.
Heiko, you have big news about Fil Noir Uomo. You are dressing up and adding business models to the traditional terrain of casual shirts. Are there not enough business shirts around as it is?
Heiko Storz, owner of Swiss Hest: There are enough cheap ones and enough expensive ones, but we believe there is room for a shirt with an exceptionally attractive price-performance ratio. Made in Europe with such attention to detail that it almost
has a manufactured quality, with a subtle but recognisable Fil Noir signature that makes all the difference.
Can consumers recognise this difference? Definitely, if they are in those competent specialised stores that we prefer to work with. I also trust that our consumers can sense this quality, especially once they wear the shirts. What is the secret?
They are made of fine Italian full-twill fabrics, ethically produced, with a particularly fine seam pattern and all the little extras that others have sacrificed to cost cutting. We refuse to settle for compromises in any detail and deliver a ready-to-wear shirt that is almost unheard of.
How difficult is it to manage the supply chain efficiently?
It is a constant challenge. Many years of experience and loyal partners help. Without this network, it would currently be impossible
to deliver reliably, and that is our first priority for all lines.
How do you impress customers?
Fil Noir Uomo and Donna are all about fantasies, patterns, and designs; shirts, blouses, and dresses that are a perfect fit for sophisticated ranges in the casual segment. We remain highly competent specialists by refraining from covering the whole spectrum. Our 20-strong team in Radolfzell promises the type of precise reliability that retailers rightly demand from their suppliers today. Last but not least: We deliberately decided against an own e-commerce platform, which constitutes a commitment to specialist retailers.
TRAIANO I CAN’T BELIEVE IT’S NOT BUTTER!
The charming logic of this advertising slogan, which is currently hyped in the US, is being applied to the choice of fabric for Traiano shirts. How did it evolve into your working motto?
Josef Reiter, Managing Partner of Hatico (Traiano licence holder): I can’t believe it’s not cotton effectively describes in one sentence what a Traiano shirt is all about. We exclusively use technical performance fabrics that are far more comfortable to wear and easy to maintain than natural fibres. At the same time, it is impossible to tell from the first look and feel that it is not cotton. That often surprises people.
Traiano is the Tesla of shirts: trendsetter, young, innovative, cosmopolitan, unconventional. Through your family business Hatico, you have experienced the shirt
market over decades. It is demanding, to put it mildly. How do you cope?
I believe the shirt market has never been as difficult as it is today. As a family business, we have the opportunity to position a product like Traiano in a niche that may be small, but it covers the two biggest trends in current menswear.
What are they?
On the one hand, there is performance with easy-care, technical fabrics that feel like a second skin, do not require ironing, and can be combined to suit any occasion. On the other hand, there is casualisation. The idea we developed was to use high-quality fabrics from sportswear and outerwear, which are usually used for performance collections, to design fashionable shirts that meet our high standards for contemporary menswear.
GUGLIELMINOTTI
LUXURY RESIDES IN QUALITY
Guglielminotti is one of six brands of Giemme Brandscorporate, epitomising the elegance of Italian style. Guglielminotti represents excellence in shirt making by combining ancient sartorial techniques with innovation to ensure comfort and a perfect fit. The collection is characterized by refined lines and fine fabrics, reflecting traditional craftsmanship. In a segment dominated by mass production, Guglielminotti sets itself apart with a commitment to preserving the sartorial art of Milan.
Shirts crafted in many sartorial steps: Guglielminotti.
Performance fabrics, premium look: Traiano.
Lace Up
It is only logical that a change of silhouette in menswear is mirrored by footwear. The neat white sneaker is gradually being replaced by new icons. Be it boat shoes, loafers, or brown shoes, the absolute favorite has not yet been chosen. This favorite spot, however, is clear: shoe brands prefer to be seen together with fashion. Clever, yet the battle for limited space is tough.
Floris van Bommel, the creative head of the eponymous company, knows that the brown shoe will always remain a niche compared to the sneaker - which is why he injects all the more creativity into his creations.
FLORIS VAN BOMMEL “MOTIVATION TRUMPS INSPIRATION”
The menswear silhouette is shifting from skinny to oversized – what about shoes?
Floris van Bommel, Creative Director: Fashion has changed dramatically, yet not so much in terms of footwear. We are still observing a trend towards vintage sports shoes, fuelled by the Adidas Samba, which I, too, consider timeless. Meanwhile, there is a great deal of momentum in more innovative and technical trainers. The more voluminous trainers are also still around. Well-crafted shoes remain, however, a niche.
Men are keen to know who is behind their favorite brands. How do you answer?
Our company is over 300 years old. We do not shout this fact from the rooftops, but we invite anyone willing to immerse themselves in our history to experience it. I sometimes wonder why we communicate it so little, especially when others with a much briefer history overemphasize it. Yet we maintain our brand-building constants: Surprising, enjoyable collaborations that creatively incorporate elements of our history. What inspires you?
I do not believe in inspiration, but rather in motivation. When I come across something that I find beautiful, it motivates me to create something truly beautiful myself. This creates a little inner creative furore that compels me to perform. I then start to work entirely empty and simply let everything that comes to mind bubble to the surface. In
everyday life, of course, external influences also fuel my creativity, but I never actively seek inspiration.
SEBAGO “FASHION CONFIDENCE IS ON THE RISE”
The specialized shoe retail sector in the DACH region is in a state of flux. Many brands are moving into fashion retail, but only six to eight percent of the floor space there is dedicated to shoes. How do you approach this challenge?
Melanie Bruss, Head of Marketing & PR DACH for Sebago: Sebago’s broad collection and categories – Dockside/Boat Style, Campside/Outside Style, and Cityside/ Fashion – have always appealed to fashion
retailers. We endeavour to showcase the shoes by presenting looks and styling to make them easier to sell.
There is, as the jargon says, a behavioral gap between “desire to own” and buying at regular prices. How realistic do you think it is for consumers and retailers to be fashion-conscious about shoes? We recently started noticing that the confidence from other European countries is filtering through to the DACH region. We observed a clear increase in this respect, even in the higher price bracket.
The scarce spaces in the specialized fashion trade for footwear harbor the risk of becoming a one-hit wonder. Look at brands such as Autry, Philippe Model, Golden Goose, which are often only known for one model and its variants by
the broader public. How do you prevent this from happening?
Sebago does not feature an icon in the shoe sector, but instead represents a broad collection through the categories, which is rounded off by textiles and accessories. Sebago is a heritage brand that represents a lifestyle, not a single shoe model.
HIDN-ANDER NEXT STEP
The Made in Italy sneakers by designer Alessandro Viganò are gearing up for growth. Adam Kakembo, who comes from Aesop and previously held numerous other positions in the fashion business, has been appointed as the new CEO. Sales in the DACH region have been transferred to Select Studio, with spe-
cialist retailers, both in footwear and fashion, remaining at the epicenter of the growth strategy. “We need retailers as our ambassadors; our brand always performs best when it is explained passionately,” explains Viganò. Kakembo believes that accounts such as Le Bon Marché in Paris raise the brand’s visibility. “We must leverage all modern means of communication and brand building to share the passion that Hidn-Ander sneakers can inspire with a wider audience,” says the CEO. The brand aims to expand its footprint in an authentic manner through a series of events, for example at Jofré in Barcelona, and collaborations, most recently with Kiton. hidnander.com
CEO Adam Kakembo and designer Alessandro Viganò rely on partnerships with retailers.
COMING UP
GOLD MINER Munthe
RECHARGE
TRENDS & FORECASTS FOR UPCOMING SEASONS
DEFENSIVE PLAY
Editorial: Isabel Faiss Photos: Brands
Bugatti
Joop
GARDEN OF EDEN White Sand
DEFENSIVE PLAY
Both x Dion Le
Batakovic
Canadian Classics
Marc Cain
G-Star
Happy Socks
Parajumpers
Less
Whether for diversity, recognition, or freedom –fashion is showing its dominant, combative, progressive and self-determined side. Attributes of uniforms, martial volumes and cuts, bold colors and deliberate allusions to fetish elements meet extreme elegance through the choice of fine wool and silk fabrics, as well as the corresponding glamor of sequins and patent leather.
Gestuz
Dante 6
Steve Madden
Herskind
Mantù
Aandrs
Essentiel Antwerp
GARDEN OF EDEN
Ba&sh
Fil Noir
Hidn-Ander
Eleh
Niù
Absolut Cashmere
Roy Robson
Carl Gross
g1920
Duno
Valentino
Seductive
The longing for tranquility, peace and serenity brings the comeback of this nature-loving romanticism.
Herrlicher
Duno
Tallulah
Sportalm
JC Sophie
Alohas
Yuliya Magdych
Sassenbach
W6YZ
GOLD MINER
Hope
Stetson
CG Club of Gents
Sportalm
Mou
Tomorrow
Dornschild
Paul & Shark
Dante 6
The Wild West is un stoppable. However, the trend is a new mixture of vintage aesthetics, a thirst for adventure and pioneer romanticism combined with plenty of glamor. The dominant stylistic element is denim, often in an all-over look, both washed and bleached, coarse and rough. Details such as fringes are also indispensable. A little gold dust on top and the hat is on point.
Floris van Bommel
Éthica
Windsor
Penn & Ink
Sacrécoeur
Avant Toi
DL1961
Carl Gross
Savile Row by CG
Suncoo
RECHARGE
Sebago
People of Shibuya
Viamailbag
The Holy Goat
AlphaTauri
Goldgarn
Rice
Nineto9
Bloom
Penn & Ink N.Y.
The law of e-mobility has been applied to fashion: batteries need to be recharged. Take casualization one step further and you end up with this silent, deep need forhighquality natural materials, simple looks, casual naturalness, and luxury.
Knit-ted
Daniele Fiesoli
Fresh ’N Rebel
Dressler
Alberto
Bongusta Windsor
Voile Blanche
Circolo 1901
Traiano
Cruna
Blauer USA
WIDER SENSE
Herskind
Marcella
PNTS
Tagliatore
Malej
Save the Duck
Gant
RRD
Caractère
Huge volumes have spread from trousers to tops and jackets. Boxy, linear cuts in flowing fabrics meet oversized looks and tone-on-tone styles.
Solotre
Liviana Conti
Scandinavian Edition
Sruti Dalmia
Joop
LPFP
True Religion
Ecoalf
The Nim
Sofie D’Hoore
9AM by Dolores
House of Auster, the shoppable apartment, was created in an historic apartment building on Vienna’s Neubaugürtel.
HOUSE OF AUSTER/VIENNA
COMMUNITY IS THE NEW FREQUENCY
Content creator Carola Pojer and architect Andreea Cebuc have opened the Shoppable Apartment House of Auster in Vienna’s 7th district. For their concept of design icons, furniture, interiors and vintage fashion, they deliberately chose an apartment instead of a store. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: House of Auster
As an influencer, she is also known under the name Vienna Wedekind Avantgarde: Carola Pojer’s aesthetic has stood out from the crowd from the very beginning, and she has always protected her account against commercialization. The photographer is too concerned with longevity, simplicity and quality. Her co-founder at House of Auster is the perfect counterpart: as an architect, Andreea Cebuc has worked for Hermes, Julius Meinl am Graben and the Park Hyatt Group. At House of Auster, the two entrepreneurs combine their talents: Andreea’s interior company C’est Design and Carola’s ceramics label One of a Kind, for example. In addition to these two individual companies, House of Auster comes to 190 square meters in the most beautiful old building in Vienna. Design classics, art, furniture, some of which they designed themselves. “From the very beginning, people saw House of Auster as a place where they could experience major investments such as a sofa or our table made in
Austria,” says Andreea Cebuc. With a simple aesthetic and carefully curated, design fans will also find preloved fashion. “The House of Auster is designed like an apartment, so fashion makes sense,” says Carola Pojer. The range is deliberately mixed: from take-away items to investments for a lifetime. In order to market such a selection, female entrepreneurs of this generation do not need a runway. “It wouldn’t fit in with our concept,” Andreea Cebuc is convinced. There are regular opening hours from Wednesday to Saturday, and the House of Auster also hosts events and workshops or can be rented as a location. Is community the new frequency? “Definitely,” say the two in unison.
Neubaugürtel 20/7, Vienna/Austria, Owners: Carola Pojer and Andreea Cebuc, Sales area: 190 square meters Brands: among others Marie C., Susanne Kaufmann, Tylko, Uncommonmatters
Shaping aesthetics and style for many years: Andreea Cebuc and Carola Pojer, the founders of House of Auster.
NUGNES 1920/TRANI
“WE SEE FASHION RETAIL AS ART”
Photos: Paola Pansini
Tradition can be inspiring - if, like Beppe Nugnes, you understand it as something alive. He is the third generation to run the store, which was founded in 1920, and has completely renovated it in 2021 together with Studio Dini Cataldi. At home in Palazzo Pugliese in the picturesque town of Trani, Nugnes is an institution. What makes it unique? “We differentiate ourselves through a very personal approach to consulting and the sales process.
In Italy we see fashion retail as art, here in the South even more strongly. We passionately keep our customers at the center of everything. We even have an expression for this personal care: we call it coccola. This makes a visit to Nugnes more than just a shopping trip; it really is an experience for all senses.”
250 brands on two floors, lots of staff, because people fill the minimalist rooms that are almost imposing at the entrance with life.
The first floor is divided into two men’s worlds. On one side, there is classic and formal fashion, including tailored suits, designed as an intimate reinterpretation of a gentlemen’s club. The second section features looks with a more modern vision for trend-conscious men.
On the second floor, womenswear is divided into several lounges with different ambiences. International trends with plenty of local color - that’s the magic formula at Nugnes. Corso Vittorio Emanuele 189, Trani/Italy
Opening after renovation: 2021, Owner: Nugnes family Sales area: 1,000 square meters, @nugnes1920
Brands: Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Céline, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Gucci, Jil Sander, Marni, Loro Piana, Off White, Zimmermann and others.
Beppe Nugnes loves his store.
True history: Magnificent wall and ceiling paintings in the women’s department.
Completely renovated in six months despite UNESCO monument requirements: Santagatha.
SANTAGATHA/NOTO
A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE
In the truest sense of the word: PozziLei opened its fourth store in Italy in a Sicilian church. Noto’s baroque church of Sant’Agata is a more than extraordinary setting. “We renovated the rooms in just six months, in close consultation with the monument protection authority and the city council. We find this location so suitable because it shows that fashion can have a deep connection with art, culture and history,” explains Laura Avanzi, one of the three siblings of the owner family. It goes without saying that the selection cannot be mundane in such an ambience. “Noto is an insider tip for anyone looking for genuine but quiet luxury. Our very international customers don’t focus on the brands, but on the content. We arrange new sensory trails, as we call them, every month.” Frescoes, marble, columns - the church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A perfect place for the colorfulness of the range, which also includes haute perfumery, accessories, jewelry and books. The company is also planning its own women’s collection. It will be called Santagatha. Of course.
Via R. Trigona, Noto/Italy, @santagathanoto, Opening: 2023, Owner: The Avanzi family, Sales area: 300 square meters Brands: Alaïa, Alémais, Burberry, Cabana, Forte Forte, Gucci, MaxMara, Ralph Lauren, Stone Island, Zimmermann and others.
GALANTERIE/WIENER NEUSTADT
Clean lines, minimalist design: in Wiener Neustadt, Scandi chic has been a priority for (almost) ever. “ Galanterie has been around since 2003. In the first two years, the style was very Francophile,” explains owner Sabine Zellinger, who has a soft spot for Danish design magazines. “Except for the decorative line, where we followed the Scandinavian look right from the start.” Twice a year, the certified decorator traveled to trade fairs in Copenhagen and used the opportunity to shop for fashion. The customers liked it, more space was needed. From a 40 square meter concept store, Galanterie grew to 80 square meters and was expanded: Zellinger opened a second store with a focus on fashion on 160 square meters. When her parents fell ill, she gave up the larger space and integrated the fashion segment into Galanterie.
“Galanterie has always also been a living room where people
meet to chat. Since Covid, we’ve also been serving sourdough bread every Saturday. It is important to involve everyone, even those customers who are not yet regulars.” Sabine Zellinger pays attention to quality and sustainable production. The fashion range is casual, but not too elegant. Small brands provide variety. “Sometimes we even get tips from influencers who contact us. If we like the brands, we go to the fashion agencies and buy them, sometimes just ten or 20 pieces. The brands know that we present them well. This trust makes us happy, and the smaller quantity takes some of the pressure off.”
Domgasse 2, 2700 Wiener Neustadt/Austria @galanteriezellinger, Opening: 2003, Owner: Sabine Zellinger Sales area: 85 square meters, Brands: Closed, Daddy’s Daugthers, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Lanius, Moss Copenhagen etc.
For Sabine Zellinger, the Danes have the edge when it comes to design - this is also reflected in her carefully curated concept store.
Agallery as a flexible space that not only caters to art sounds inspiring. What do you envisage in this space?
Gloria Massaro, gallery management: In addition to art exhibitions, pop-ups, events, coaching sessions, and exclusive tastings are equally possible. The same applies to a showroom presentation of a fashion brand, a reading, or a pop-up to celebrate a retailer’s anniversary. The possibilities are endless. Our gallery in Cologne city centre brings together people who enjoy being surprised anew. Sounds visionary, especially given the increasing number of empty shops in city centres.
Absolutely. The man behind the concept is entrepreneur and visionary Björn Wasser, who intends to revitalise city centers with creative impulses. Pop-ups with an artist and fashion brands such as Lala Berlin have already proved very popular, and demand is high. The little sister of the Cologne gallery opened in Berlin-Mitte last year, and further galleries are planned for Leipzig, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, and Munich. Only flexible and creative ideas can inspire consumers and motivate them to shop locally. With our gallery, we strive to be pioneers and friendly hosts.
www.galerie-wasser.de
A space with an aura: Galerie Wasser is available for short-term rent.
GALERIE WASSER
TOUCH ME!
The warmth of a sincere hug, the smell of brambles in the sun or fresh snow up in the mountains, three bars of a song that was once a beloved companion coming from the radio in the bar where we are drinking our (equally fragrant) morning espresso - in the symphony of everyday life, our senses play the decisive emotional melody that influences our every action and decision. And the more senses are involved, the more deeply we are “touched”. It is no coincidence that this expression refers to how crucial touch, i.e. tactile, physical sensuality, is.
How intensely omnisensoric experiences also shape our consumer behavior, especially when it comes to things we don’t need but (hopefully) want, has recently been rather painfully rubbed in the fashion industry’s face. While people have been and continue to be happy to whip out their credit cards for a chic boutique hotel in Lisbon, a romantic wellness weekend in Leogang, a farewell dinner at Noma or Taylor Swift tickets, fashion has been, shall we say, a little tougher. Not everywhere, not for everyone, but in the big picture. The question of why is an obvious one, and one that I have been asked very often in recent months. The answer is very simple. And it also contains the solution. In recent years, our industry has worked hard and unfortunately successfully to devalue itself (emotionally). The extremely clever Carolina Alvarez Ossorio, CMO Ecoalf, put it perfectly in a nutshell during a conversation at Pitti Uomo in Florence: “We have prioritized convenience over experience!” And, if I may add, price over value.
No one goes out to eat at Noma or Steirereck - I mentioned this telling experience in my primarily intellectually omnisensoric conversation with Ann Berry and Anna Graf (page 102) – just because they are hungry. No woman buys a Phoebe Philo blazer because she’ll be cold otherwise. Beyond everyday needs, it’s always about the overall sensual experience. Especially when you can only spend the money once. And that tends to be the norm, also in the target group with high spending power.
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As already mentioned, the answer also contains the solution. And as simple as it may seem, it requires a paradigm shift in many respects. It won’t happen overnight. And it won’t be easy either. Most of the more or less spectacular (near) bankruptcies of recent months – Farfetch, Matches Fashion, P&C... you name it – were the soundtrack to a transformation that has only just begun, even though it feels like we’ve been debating it for so long.
An amazing thing happened to me in Florence. During a Pitti Uomo that was omnisensoric, intense and successful in every respect, I didn’t meet anyone who complained. Nobody! And YES, I did meet some or even a lot of my German friends ;-) Sorry, couldn’t resist.
Grounded confidence and a self-confident entrepreneurial spirit have replaced the paralyzing fatalism (But the pandemic! But the war! But inflation!) of recent years. Optimism does not mean turning a blind eye to challenges or problems. Rather, optimism means being firmly convinced that we can overcome these challenges. And that we want to.
With this in mind: The Future is Wide Open!
Your Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com
English Translation
Georgmaria Prock
Manfred Thurner
Editor Georgmaria Prock
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