Difficult Times? We Prefer the

DIFFICULT TIMES?

WE PREFER THE TERM CHALLENGE!

The changes experienced by the fashion market are evident, but difficult to grasp. Those who don’t react now, will lose out. But what measures need to be taken? style in progress caught up with some of the industry’s retailers and decision makers to find out more. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

PROVIDE A

STAGE Simone and Roy Komorr, owner of Roy, Sylt

“It’s not enough to merely know your customers; you need to shirt cleaning, ironing of suits, shoe repair, and tailoring, are well received. Another important factor is the quality of materials and the craftsmanship needed to process the fabrics. In this context, we place special emphasis on manufacturing sites in Germany and Europe. We need strong brands - not broadly diversified. The depth of a collection is more important to us than having a mass of labels in our stores. Expressiveness is key in this context.” “We meet the challenges of a changing market by focusing on a single store. For us and our longstanding team, this is the best way to maintain personal contact with our customers and build new ‘friendships’ that allow us to offer individual advice and adapt our buying strategy to customer needs. We pair this approach with the courage to offer an authentic and inspiring merchandise concept. This means that WE are the brand! We perceive our store as a stage - on the one hand in the form of ‘entertainment space’ and, on the other hand, because we believe the customer is the ‘star’. All our attention is

LONGEVITY Alexander Manns, owner of Blum seit 1846, Deesen

know your customers very well. This means that we also visit our customers at home or at the office, if necessary outside our regular business hours. Our numerous services, such as focused on our customers and their personal style!

COMMITMENT Jörg Korfhage, country manager for Germany at Liu Jo

“Who bears which risk for sales on the floor? Who fulfils which roles?

We are increasingly convinced that traditional distribution models are becoming outdated. This is why Liu Jo has developed co-operation models that require the commitment of the retail industry and vice versa. Many customers have told us that they need an option to revisit faster fashion themes during the season. However, one is told too often during the season that there is a lack of funds. This makes it even more important to co-ordinate and define such issues in advance. At the same time, we are waging war on compartmentalisation. One brand is known as a pre-order supplier, a different one stands for warehouse service, while another brand is seen as Pronto Moda. Liu Jo has to work towards also being perceived as a brand that offers excellent stock programmes and flash fashion by retail customers. Both the brand and the retailer need to optimise sales, which requires a lot of effort from both sides. This optimisation process is the biggest challenge.”

PERSONALITY Dorothea Haselmann, owner Purpur. Mode & Design, Bamberg

“The success of a business has always stood or fallen with the personality and the physical presence of the owner.”

ECO FASHION AS BONUS Markus Leicher, owner of Dailys

“Many retailers are under pressure due to the fact that larger sales floor concepts, which require high minimums, no longer work as well as they used to. As a young Eco Fashion label, we believe that retailers being willing to accept more responsibility is an opportunity for us. We have a clear sense that the acceptance of environmentally correct fashion has increased considerably. Furthermore, we have the bonus that our label is stylish and offers good value for money. It would have been more difficult for us to gain a foothold in the market three years ago, but now we have earned our breakthrough and will have reached more than 300 retail customers in 2017. This shows that a crisis also always offers opportunities.”

PERSONALITY IS THE KEY Barbara Ulmer, owner of Etoile, Constance

“Our individual challenge was that we had to move from a 1a to a 1f location in November due to a 500 percent (!) rent increase. We mastered this challenge in a surprisingly satisfactory manner, mainly because we focused heavily on maintaining personal contact with regular customers. We are known for not buying brand-oriented, but very individually. We focus on brands that are not available in the immediate vicinity and don’t have a massive footprint in terms of e-retailing. Although we are the among the largest Bruno Cuccinelli buyers, we offer our customers a very special selection of this well-known brand. Our very personal product range has allowed us to become this self-sufficient. Personality is the key word for me. The store is my living room, while my employees and customers form my private environment. Our success proves that customers who feel and appreciate this approach still exist.”

UNDERSTANDING THE CUSTOMER Oliver Beuthien, managing director at Engelhorn

“In my opinion, there is no ‘single, most important measure’. I believe we need a set of measures that can only have an effect in combination. It’s all about advice, the product range, digitalisation, and - as I call it - ‘eventisation’ to lure customers into the city and increase the amount of time they spend in our store. It’s not enough to simply hang up clothing in the shop. Furthermore, it’s no longer about saying: ‘Dear customer, come and buy!’ We need to communicate: ‘Come to us. We understand you.’ This means that we have to perfect our role as host and to charge our sales floors emotionally, not only with a product range that reacts to trends faster, which is why it is no longer enough to operate with just one pre-order per season. The gastronomy aspect is just as important, as it contributes to turning a shopping trip to Engelhorn into a real experience. There’s also no denying that digitalisation is necessary. We are working hard on linking online with offline. The combination of all these measures leads to long-term success.”

GUT FEELING AND LONG-SELLERS

Ralf Fischer, owner of Ralf Fine Garments, Munich

“Instead of relying on highly complex enterprise resource planning software, I trust my gut feeling when it comes to buying. Instead of chasing new models and cuts every season, I prefer to rely on proven long-sellers. I don’t do clearance sales. Instead I prefer to give regular customers a little bonus in the form of a hand-picked bottle of gin or a good bar of chocolate from time to time. That not only increased the well-being of the customers, but also avoids the value of the goods being questioned.”

REMAIN TRUE TO YOURSELF Stefan Dietzelt, owner of Eisdieler, Berlin

“Our store has always been a platform for our own fashion labels. In 1999, we started extending the range of merchandise. Even though fashion in general, the appearance of the store, and the number of shareholders have changed significantly since then, we have always remained true to our basic concept. There is no clearance sale at the end of the season. The single-unit productions from the past have transformed into sought-after low-volume productions. If possible, the brands we buy remain just as unique, rare, and sustainable. So far, this mix works in our location and we strive to optimise our niche via portfolio management and excellent customer relations.”

CONSTANT

CHANGE Antje Leinemann, managing director at Bikini Berlin

“Constant change has been the most important measure for

Bikini Berlin ever since it opened two years ago. Concretely, that means that we always showcase new brands and products in our boxes on the ground floor. These boxes are pop-up areas that form an integral part of the concept shopping mall. Constant change also means that we review our product range continually.

We optimise things that aren’t successful yet and expand things that are well-received by our customers.”