Man-cipation

The menswear market is on the move. The reasons why men are developing into the industry’s favourite customers are manifold and include an improved range of choice, more courage in terms of fashion, and a newly-found confidence. style in progress looks at the current joys of operating in the menswear segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

“Men are the new girls - that’s clear”, Matthias Schwarte summarises. “In the menswear market, we are currently experiencing what happened in the womenswear market maybe ten to fifteen years ago. We have interested customers who are open to trying new things when advised accordingly and willing to give a new look or brand a chance.” Of course, this does not mean that they are willing to clown around. “They are interested in stories with an immediately visible added value, as well as items that explain themselves quickly and leave no questions unanswered”, the fashion agency owner adds. People of Shibuya is a prime example. The label offers functional - yet sophistically designed - jackets that, alongside many technical features, work predominantly in accordance with the tried and tested 2-in-1 principle. “These features can lead to the entire Masculin Modekreis ordering in the very first season. Buyers are similar to the customers they strive to serve. They are also on the lookout for products that are uncomplicated and innovative”, Matthias Schwarte explains. Naturally, the retail industry is a little more restrained in its jubilation. Even the menswear stores have been affected by the negative results of the first few months of autumn. Nevertheless, Clemens Sagmeister, the head of Sagmeister Der Mann in Bregenz, is content with the position he finds himself in. “The menswear segment is definitely more crisis-resistant; we don’t feel the highs and lows as strongly as other segments. For example, a business customer, who needs to buy ten shirts and two suits per year, will not stay at home just because the consumer climate is currently clouded. Once such a customer is in the store, one can seduce him by making new materials more appealing or highlighting new fashion topics such as wearing sneakers with a suit.” Seduction is the measure of all things. Even customers who buy out of requirement are no longer content with clothing presented in rank and file. That concept is beyond outdated. Our main tools are to remain surprising and - in some cases - persistent. A customer may reject a look three times before agreeing to give it a chance the fourth time. This art of persuasion is, after all, our core competence.”

Rooster or Egg? “In terms of fashion, men have certainly caught up. There is a clear progression”, says Lars Braun, the owner of Braun Hamburg and the operator of an eponymous online shop. But what triggered this development? What came first: an improved fashion range or the demand for it? What came first: the chicken or the egg? “I

believe strongly that the chicken came first. There is no supply without demand. The demand “The menswear segment is definitely more for a casual, non-conformist look has been palpable for some time. The uniformity is being crisis-resistant.” Clemens Sagmeister, Sagmeister Der Mann Bregenz broken up and that is good for the menswear market. The the purchase on a more rational whole season in terms of media dividing line between work and basis. We need to provide the recognition and - most imporleisure is not as defined as it right arguments.” tantly - visual perception. The used to be. We have noticed that key term is “street styles from many fashion topics are being Egg Hunt Florence”. Today, these street presented in a more open and Every season at the epicentre styles play a significant role in casual manner. This automatiof men’s fashion… Some race established media channels, as cally creates a fresh image and through the Pitti Uomo like well as on blogs and Instagram. makes customers more willing they have been stung by a ta“It is always difficult to generalto be seduced.” The fact that rantula to ensure that they don’t ise in this respect, but the conmen allow themselves to be miss any of the more exciting sumers are, in my perception, seduced by new clothing styles is labels. “Others simply visit their much more enlightened than a relatively recent phenomenon. regular suppliers and spend half they used to be”, Lars Braun “Men have become vainer, more an hour talking to them. Then argues. “No matter whether you hedonistic, and more enlightthey complain that they didn’t look at fashion shows online, ened in style matters. It is, for see anything new”, says Heritage read magazines on the web, or instance, quite impressive how Agents’ Michael Brockmann in peruse Instagram and the likes, well-informed our customers a deliberately exaggerated tone. these image worlds have become are about what happens in the “But let’s be honest. Those who more important and inspire design houses. They know when return from the Pitti Uomo many men to try fashion styles the designer has been replaced, claiming that they didn’t see that they simply wouldn’t have for example. In the past, nobody anything new either didn’t look known about in the past.” The stylish gentleman, who posts “This interest in fashion his outfits on a daily basis, is a new quantity due to the emerdoesn’t come from nowhere. gence of Instagram. In a recent It is promoted by a change interview with style in progress, Nick Wooster said: “I believe to the way we live.” that street styles and blogs have Rob Kriescher, Dreist Aachen allowed men to be interested in fashion and talk about it.” Lars Braun: “In fact, there are role outside the industry would have properly or spent their entire models with whom men can noticed such a change.” time standing in the Colle Bereidentify. Unlike with women, Rob Kriescher, the owner of to. When we stroll through the these role models are more the menswear store Dreist in trade show, we can’t stop raving real and natural. They don’t Aachen, adds: “This interest about all the cool stuff we get necessarily have to be living in fashion doesn’t come from to see. That is our version of the icons. After all, the likes of Steve nowhere. It is promoted by a Champions League. One needs McQueen are still personalities change to the way we live. A to be awake, switched on, and that men enjoy looking up to.” visit to a barber or grooming in active. One needs to be open general, beautiful accessories or for new things and willing to What Does the Hen Say? shoes and their appropriate care give them a chance. I am always “At Stereo/Muc, our customers - an entire cosmos has developed amazed when I hear retailers expect the full-service treatin recent years. It allows men saying that trade shows are unment. They want to know to indulge in the finer things of necessary. Where else would you everything about the product life. The most important thing is find the innovations for your and are particularly interested that there is a good background store? Of course, maybe you in how and where it is manustory. As a shop assistant, one don’t need to add a new supplier factured and what materials it is must not tire of telling this every season. But when you no made of. The brand itself plays a story over and over again. After longer enjoy discovering, then subordinate role in this respect. all, this story will be passed you will definitely not be able to on when the customer talks about his recent purchases with do your customers justice.” This applies especially to “The uniformity is being his friends over a beer. A man doesn’t highlight the beauty of a product he recently acquired. customers of today, who know exactly what the retailers wish to withhold. An event such as broken up and that is good for the menswear market.” He wants to be able to justify the Pitti Uomo is formative for a Lars Braun, Braun Hamburg

“At Stereo/Muc, our customers expect the full-service most likely completely negligible in statistical terms. “All the brands that have their own That’s a fallacy! When a man realises that there is no way to negotiate a price, he focuses on treatment.” retail operations and secured areas at large retailers - they the essential: the substance. Lo and behold, suddenly he is willFlorian Ranft, Stereo/Muc, Komet und Helden all look the same. Boredom is ing to pay quite a different price, inevitable”, Matthias Schwarte because the product is either In addition, most men want to Now we can see that many men argues. Harm Hesterberg, who ‘rare’ or he believes it is worth it buy a complete look from us. don’t need a special occasion was at Stiesing in Bremen before on a personal level. Oversupply In this context, the outfit as a and enjoy fashion as it is. I like recently opening his own store has never spawned dreams!” whole is more important than to compare this process with named Sailor & Harbour in individual items. Thus, we strive the configuration of a car. Men Bremerhaven, puts it this way: to showcase as many outfits as enjoy choosing the leather and “The oversupply of fashion - possible in our store in order the colour of the interior. And even in the high-end segment - to inspire our customers anew we are more than happy to assist permeates through all channels: upon every visit”, says Florian them.” stationary, in outlets, and Ranft, the owner of Stereo/Muc, online. This has inevitably led to several Woolrich stores, and Laying Battery? Free Range! fatigue and ignorance in many the fashion agency Komet und Indeed, one could gain the men. The key term is ‘rarer than Helden. “Most men go shopping impression that expansion is on rare’. Those who can cover that alone and place all their trust the horizon. The KaDeWe has particular topic, mix unexpected in their favourite sales assistant. decided to rid itself from the small brands, skilfully present In parts, the latter shoulders the shackles of concession areas by unknown manufactory labels, role of the women who used to appointing new procurement and promote things that are not regularly advise their partners in managers, the ready-to-wear available online, will generate terms of fashion choices.” Every specialist Lanieri has opened its successful consultation results in yet another loyal customer. own flagship store in Munich, Apropos The Concept Store has “When we stroll through This rather naive assumption remains valid in times of online competition and vertically intelaunched a menswear store in Hamburg, Marco Burresi has dedicated a store in Frankfurt Pitti Uomo, we can’t stop raving about all the cool stuff grated conglomerates. “Women are like butterflies flying from flower to flower in the hunt to men’s fashion, and retailers in many smaller and medium-sized cities are finally courageous we get to see.” Michael Brockmann, Heritage Agents for the best product available. enough to look at the untapped Men are much more decisive”, potential of fashion-conscious more attention. Especially if Michaela Schirlbauer says while men. In addition, names that they pair all the aforementioned describing her personal experiwere previously only seen as with a different quality of stay, ence. Even Clemens Sagmeister, womenswear specialists are consultants who actually have who offers the majority of pushing into the men’s marsomething to say, and - possibly his product range online via ket. For example, myclassico. - have even mastered the art of Farfetch, confirms the statement com Men is entering its third making an excellent cappuccithat men are more loyal. “It is season. In July, it even opened no. Those retailers have a real quite logical, really. The more a stationary store in Hamburg’s chance of breaking free from the high-end a product that a man “Grosse Bleichen”. “We are the predominant phlegm.” Hesbuys is, the more it is necessary antithesis of the haberdasher, terberg’s principle is a mixture for a tailor to adapt the product mainly because the modern man of inspiration and keeping to his individual needs. No man is now more fashion-oriented things tight: “Every man loves would burden himself with buyand self-confident in terms of to play. This playfulness and ing a suit online and then taking purchasing decisions. I believe desire to hunt for things that it to a tailor himself. This means that this shows a radical change not everyone can own needs to he has to visit a specialised in the market”, says Lennart be satisfied.” After all: “Fashion retailer whom he fully trusts.” Heldmann, the myclassico. has nothing to do with freezing The sewing machines have never com manager responsible for or sweating! Desire comes from hummed more than today. “Our the menswear project. It is quite wanting to own something, not in-house tailoring department is clear that this is not a significant from having something thrown making more changes than ever. upturn or even a boom, but at you. Today, the reaction to a The awareness has increased rather a shift of revenue that is demand is to offer the best price. yet again. When a man buys something, he wants everything to fit perfectly. In addition, we “Desire comes from wanting to have added customised clothing to our service range, which was originally intended for imporown something, not from having something thrown at you.” tant occasions such as weddings. Harm Hesterberg, Sailor & Harbour Bremerhaven