How Green is Blue?

The denim business is dirty from top to bottom, from cotton to long delivery routes. Washing, dyeing, and finishing also contribute to the utterly grim life cycle assessment of jeans. This needs to change. Leading manufacturers share their views with style in progress. Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka. Illustrations: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler

ALWAYS ON THE LOOKOUT Sara Maier, Denim Designer at Armedangels

“Our Detox Denims are GOTS-certified. This means that no harmful pesticides are used during cotton pro duction and no toxic chlorine during washing. These jeans are also free of heavy metals and 100 percent vegan. We are always on the lookout for ways to be come even greener: in the sourcing of raw materials, the reduction of chemicals, or the saving of water. Our new goal is to manufacture denims with recycled ma terials and to eliminate dirty wastewater. At the end of the day, it’s the right fit that counts for the customer.”

GREENWASHING IS A PROBLEM Rosey Cortazzi, Global Marketing Director of Isko

“To make 100 percent green denim, we would have to stop producing. We do everything we can to decrease the environmental impact of denim whilst having a positive effect on people. One of the biggest challenges is greenwashing, which makes it difficult for fashion professionals to make informed choices. All Isko’s CSR achievements are verified by third parties and we pro vide concrete proof to underline our endeavours to help

build a more responsible industry.”

THE FUTURE BEGINS NOW Elena Engel, Head of Marketing at Goldgarn Denim

“We’ve always had a long-term approach. We’ve launched, for example, an integrative fundraising campaign for ‘Aufwind Mannheim’, a charity for so cially disadvantaged children. We donate one Euro for every pair of jeans sold. Denim depletes natural resources during manufacturing, so our top priority always was – and still is – a careful selection of business partners. For example, we buy denim exclusively from Isko Denim, a company that boasts strictly audited certificates such as ÖkoTex 100, GOTS, OEP, ISO 9001, ISO 9002, and others. This lends us a feeling of certainty. Isko Denim has also been working on organic components and recycling processes for a long time, both of which are tipped to replace cotton in jeans in the future. Even our little manufactory was chosen carefully. It’s very familiar and fair. Every employee feels valued and identifies with the product.”

CHANGE WITHOUT PRICE INCREASE Susanne Schwenger, CPO of Marc O’Polo

“The use of natural materials has always been engrained in Marc O’Po lo’s DNA. Twelve years ago, we were one of the first brands to switch to organic cotton. We are significantly expanding the range of modern organic products in our main Marc O’Polo Casual collection. We cur rently offer 70 styles, but this number rises to 90 in spring/summer 2020. The Casual Men delivery date in June 2020 relies exclusively on organic cotton. As part of our initiative, we are also switching important key items and volume drivers to organic cotton, without increasing the price. Our young Marc O’Polo Denim line follows the main collection’s example by promoting the use of organic cotton and Tencel, as well as recycled materials. We’re equally proud of our Less-is-More Denim range, where special garment finishing techniques save water and energy. Depending on the look, we can even forego the use of chemical substances.”

GREEN AND BLUE DON’T MIX Erwin Licher, Founder of Herrlicher and Mr. Licher

“As soon as a pair of jeans has a certain wash, it involves the use of water and chemicals. But consumers, retailers, and employees rightly expect companies to take responsibility for their actions. We have been working with European weavers and washing plants for many years; they continuously improve envi ronmental credentials. Our washing plants use ozone and have replaced grinding and sanding with laser technology. Our jeans are manufactured exclusively by family businesses in Europe and Morocco. Thus, we can guarantee that no child labour is in volved. For us, it is important to ensure sustainability – even after purchase. We use special yarns that have higher rebound values, meaning our jeans retain their shape longer and don’t have to be washed immediately after wearing.”