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AVIATION STYLE. ONBOARD WITH CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS ALEXANDER KRAFT, FROM MEZZATORRE ISCHIA TO J.P. TOD’S CLUB BESHOES, EIGHT TOP COBBLERS OF THE WORLD TOGETHER IN FLORENCE SARTORIA DOLCE & GABBANA COMITÉ COLBERT, DREAMING 2074
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editorial Dear friends, the incoming time will be remembered for a long time for many different reasons. The big crisis of global markets, which moved the centres of financial and economic power from old Europe to new Southeast Asian countries, doesn’t seem decreasing. However, some important signals highlight a clear turnaround. An example is the "reshoring" movement, with the homecoming of the highest sections of Made in Italy production, the absolute quality ones. At last, people understood the outsourcing of high range market isn’t an essential alternative anymore: also the emerging countries demand for more refined products, those manufactured by Italian artisan companies only. Nowadays, also the rich Chinese people need to smell the perfume of a product created in an Italian or European workshop and if companies are looking for far and exotic markets, it is only for the manufacturing of unique and inimitable products than can be created only in the old and legendary Italian small workshops. "Heritage", "History", "Tradition", "Quality" are the bases for luxury goods requirement; these are the essential words through which entrepreneurs will measure themselves to obtain profits. So, BeSpoke offers itself as a nonprofit organization dedicated to the certification of absolute quality. Also in this issue we give us the task (not always easy) to find the best quality hidden around the world. Finding it, it is a point of view matter: it depends on the point you want to set the problem. Bespoke bicycles, mountain chalets with unique panoramas and services, hotels and restaurants with great ambitions, stories told as only we can do it, with that vintage "troubador" taste. Oscar de la Renta: an homage to the great Dominican couturier and his gorgeous genius that left us too early. A story about civil aviation lifestyle with an incredible special reportage exclusively shot on board of a Cathay Pacific aircraft, departing from Milan to Hong Kong. A Sicilian old-mood tale about Dolce & Gabbana dressmaker. Enjoying, through the tale, the making of bespoke globes and felt hats as they were used to be created in the last century. Private events, like the Tod’s one: the Italian brand kindly invited us to the launch of the first bespoke man collection. But a special thanks goes to two friends: Tommaso Melani and Simon Crompton. Tommaso Melani who, like a Renaissance Florentine patron, made his workshop-deconsacrated church available to us, in order to host the first event dedicated to the meeting of the most important international cobblers.
A great international event difficult to fulfil, because cobblers are like tenors: they prefer exhibiting by themselves. Simon Crompton, well-known columnist who joined our team. I want to thank also our photographers all around the world to prove that "beauty exists in different shapes". Last but not least, a great honour for me, the invitation I received from Paris to attend the celebrations for the 60th anniversary of Comité Colbert, the association who rules the large part of companies that still create quality in the world. In Versailles, the CEOs of all "Comité" companies waited for us to prove their commitment and desire to continue this task in the future in order to keep the same high attention to quality sector. They accompanied us in a back-in-time tour remembering us all the splendours here kept were created by skilful artisans; those objects prove a great past and a bright future. Moreover, we dedicated a story to an other artistic expression of a great artist, Mikhail Baryšnikov as photographer, symbol of the continuous research of a balance among quality, beauty and love. Because people do some things for love only, the only engine can create beauty in life. It’s not easy to do, to make it grow. People have to work hard everyday to fulfil the exercise of love. We are surrounded by art, music, literature, cuisine, objects. Even a glass of red wine and a frugal well-cooked meal can mirror this inclination... A very difficult exercise the noble art of love for Quality. We can have it before our eyes everyday without recognising it. Sometimes people run from beauty and its lovely engine without seeing it. Also Mary J. Blige needed to wash her musical cloths in Thames recording her new musical production in London, the London Session. Also in this case, a back to the origins, symbol of the times, for less noble arts than the artisanal ones. Quality and love must be practiced everyday with coherence, passion and creativity. "Oh when you’re gone | I’d miss you like I did when we were first together | No one in this world could hold me better | Just tell me when you’re coming home". Don’t forget to recognise the Great Beauty when you have it at your fingertips. Goodbye and see you soon. In May, in Milan, during Expo 2015, at our "beHouse", the beSpoke House: day by day, with love and passion, we are building it in order to tell you our point of view about beauty and happiness. By Giansandro Cantori
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Cover: Hers from the shooting at p. 90 in front of a B777-300ER Cathay Pacific Airways | Photo by Andrea Zak Zaccone PUBLISHER IN CHIEF/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Giansandro Cantori - publisher@bespokemagazine.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF - Paola Perfetti - paola.perfetti@bespokemagazine.it MANAGING EDITOR - Paolo Giola - paolo.giola@gurkhanewmedia.com ART DIRECTION - Amelia Bardelli EDITORIAL STAFF - via Conca del Naviglio, 18 - 20123 Milan CONTRIBUTORS Delfina Ashley, Patrick Bay, Alessia Bellan, Amélie Belmonte, Annalisa Betti, Patrizia Brownie, Giansandro Cantori, Simon Crompton, Alberto Gerosa, Natalia Jeziorek, Ivan Kasaj, J.A. Kent, Giulia Lenzi, Andrea Maggi, Luca Manzoni, Fabrizio de’ Marinis, Beba Marsano, Andrea Vasquez Medina, Gianni Mercatali, Julie Parfaits, Paola Perfetti, Virginia Ricci, Sarah Smith, Aviel Tan, Susanna Tanzi, Sylvia Villa, Alyssa Viola PHOTOGRAPHERS Tanya Alexis, Peter Bellerby, Quentin Bertoux, Marzia Bettoli, Livio Bez, Claudia Calegari, Luke Carby, Chris Close, Corbis, Amie Ferguson, Matteo Ferrari, Stuart Freedman, Francesco Italia, Annie Leibovitz, Ashley Noelle, Francesco Panunzio, Julio Piatti, Franco Pizzochero, Gareth Pon, Roberto Quagli, Francesco Rastrelli, Roberta Roccati, Seychelles Tourism Board, Lido Vannucchi, Zak Andrea Zaccone PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING AND ADMINISTRATION Gurkha New Media s.r.l. - Via S. Vittore, 40 - 20123 Milan www.bespokemagazine.it PRINTING River Press Group S.R.L. - Via Menalca, 30 - 00155 Roma Tel. +39-062294420 - riverpressgroup@libero.it INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTOR PineApple Media Limited - 172 NothernParade Portsmouth - PO2 9LT - United Kingdom Tel. +44 (0)22392787970 - www.pineapple-media.com ITALIAN DISTRIBUTOR Intercontinental s.r.l. - Via Veracini, 9 - 20124 Milan (Italy) Tel. (+39) 02 6707 3227 - www.intercontinental.it ADVERTISING info@bespokemagazine.it INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING Gruner + Jahr Limited - Silver House, 31 Beak Street - London W1F 9SX - United Kingdom - Tel. +44 (0) 20 / 74 37 43 - 77 - guj.uk@guj.de French office: G+J International Media Sales c/o Prisma Presse - 17, rue Henri Barbusse - 92230 Gennevilliers - France Tel. +33 (0) 1 / 73 05 65 32 - gruner.paris@guj.de Benelux office: G+J International Media Sales bvba Coupure rechts 64/1 9000 Ghent - Belgium - Tel. +32 (0)9 235 02 12 - guj.benelux@guj.de www.gujmedia.com TRANSLATION Francesca Gatto, Giulia Perfetti, Alexander M. Synge MILAN COURT AUTHORISATION no. 61 OF 15-02-2010 - BESPOKE THE CHIC & COOL
6 The editors obtained copyright permission to publish them from the owners of the photographs. Where this was not possible we are available to settle any claims.
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Riva Yacht Trophy History of waves and heritage BY VIRGINIA RICCI | PHOTO BY FRANCESCO RASTRELLI - ROBERTA ROCCATI
When Matisse arrived in French Riviera he said: "When I realised that each morning I would see this light again, I could not believe my luck". Hangout for intellectuals and aesthetes, chosen by high society, from the Twentieth century Côte d’Azur has maintained its magnetizing charm. In a sunny weekend of September, it became the background of a painting: that of the last edition of Classic Riva Trophy, 2014. Not only a painting, a triptych if we consider owners from Brazil, Japan and Europe who came here and gathered in the amazing atmosphere of Saint Tropez. Lia Riva, heir of Carlo Riva - who turned this Italian shipyard into a real symbol of great Made in Italy, welcomed all the guests. The most famous models left for Cannes with a happy spirit of competition: Super Ariston, Iseo, Aquarama, Aquariva,
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Rivarama, Rivale, 63 Virtus, 86 Domino, 92 Duchessa... more than 20 units challenged in different races in order to reach the Riva Cannes Boat Service, in view of a delicious surprise. But after these efforts, not the usual lunch: a rich aperitif with Italian delicacies tasted on board by looking Îles de Lérins. Then, ahead to Saint Tropez, destination so beloved by international actors and celebs, like Brigitte Bardot who, in these waters, paid homage to Riva yachts during the Sixties. The French charm was combined to South American rhythm with the Brazilian Night: traditional food and drinks, music and dancers. Then, everybody came back to that Saint Tropez protagonist of magazines’ covers and celebrated on the big screen. After the brunch of the following day, it took place a contest of elegance where
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LIA RIVA, PRESIDENT OF MONACO BOAT SERVICE.
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boats brought the spectators back to Monte Carlo. The logbook of these two days made of sport and entertainment continued at the Yacht Club de Monaco for an award ceremony which celebrated the Japanese crew and their Aqua di Gioia (an Ariston 1968 model), at the top floor of a terrace with a Rivastyled lounge bar. Listening to Madame Lia’s words,
through her important memories (like the charm of Sophia Loren and Ingrid Bergman, motorboats in the desert, the history of the real Riva’s debut in American jet-set) it was easy to understand how this yacht, in the waters of heritage, will always find its right direction. www.riva-yacht.com
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