Issue 6: A New Earth by subculturedmag

SUBCULTURED. MAY 2020

a new earth

SUSTAINABILITY SPECIAL / THE CORONAVIRUS DOCUMENTED / ART SUBMISSIONS / GREENER WAYS TO BLEED / AN INTERVIEW WITH THE HIDEOUT CAFE / ECO-ANXIETY / & MORE 1

EDITO LET It has been two years since an issue of SUBCULTURED was released, as our team of directors had a very busy final year, but we are back with Issue 6, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A New Earth' - a tribute to our relationship with the ever-changing world. In the past year, I have witnessed how quickly circumstances can change, both on a personal and global level, all of which has made me cherish the present moment, as you never know what the next day may bring. Nature has provided me with a sense of stillness and a reminder of the ever greater need to protect and sustain the Earth around us. In the midst of the COVID-19 lockdown, as we retreated into our homes, each of us forced to go within and reflect, nature bloomed, animals took over the streets and air pollution fell drastically, paving the way for a new Earth after the crisis. In addition to sustainability-focused articles commissioned by our editorial director, Eve Willis, I invited readers and staff to submit their artwork to further showcase the theme of 'A New Earth'. I was blown away by the quality of submissions, which are displayed throughout the issue and in the art section. A huge thank you to those that contributed to this edition, and I hope you enjoy the issue. - Rebecca Cofie, Founder

ORS' TTERS Our sixth issue, A New Earth, is finally here: the joyful antidote to the pandemic gloom. In our editorial section, we have strived to cover issues that matter a lot to our readers, with sustainability at the heart of our content. This issue is an ode to all things green, which remain an inspiration in a rapidly changing world. We have sought to explore difficult topics that don't always have an easy answer. Join us in questioning how fast fashion is an issue for feminists (p. 8) , why activism is always connected to class (p. 32) and why talking about environmentally friendly sanitary products can help bust period shame (p. 24). Semester two may have been snatched from us, but reminisce on your favourite campus hangout with Barneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interview on the talented duo behind The Hideout (p. 14) and get some meal inspiration with our plant-based recipes (p.34). - Eve Willis, Editorial Director

SUBCULTURED. Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director Rebecca Cofie Managing Director Alice (Vasiliki) Papadopoulou DIRECTORS AND ASSISTANTS Art and Design Assistant Shinal Maheshwari Social Media and Digital Director Juliey Pham Marketing Director Will Brook Marketing Assistant Tarryn Burrows Editorial Director Eve Willis Editorial Assistant Declan Purcell Photo Directors Amy Parry, Natalie Carter Photo Assistant Clarise Ferreira Street Style Directors Roshni Rai, Celia Marianou Signatories President Alim Haque Videography Director Niki Ho WRITERS Will Brook, Daisy Colley, Eve Willis, Alice Papadopoulou, Declan Purcell, Barney Venable, Beth Roberts, Sophie Williams SUBMISSIONS ARTISTS Abraham Chinye, Manzoor Zafi Ioanna Fotiadi, Karolina Jacรณbczyk, Sophia Newman, Vita Levytska, Alim Haque, Victoria Koch, Patricia Pelea, Patricia Santos, Amel Talli, Chris Lee, Wajeeha Abassi, Chryssa Kanakaki

SUBCULTUREDMAG.COM

CONT

MAY

FASHION

8 FEMINISM, FAST FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY Sophie Williams explores the link between feminism and the way we consume fashion.

CULTURE

14 INTERVIEW WITH THE HIDEOUT CAFE

An interview with the dynamic duo, Charlie and Beau, on what lies behind their creative coffee enterprise. 6

20 ECO-ANXIETY Exploring the impending sense of doom, generated by the environmental crisis.

22 GREEN GOT 2 GET Seven tips to reduce waste.

24 GREENER WAYS TO BLEED A guide to sustainable sanitary products.

TENTS

Y 2020

28 WHY YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE BEFORE VOLUNTEERING ABROAD Eve Willis argues against "voluntourism".

32 THE PROBLEM WITH MIDDLE-CLASS ACTIVISM Declan Purcell discusses the rise in activism amongst the middle class.

34 PLANT-BASED MEAL PLAN FOR STUDENTS Beth Roberts' guide to breakfast, lunch and dinner.

BEAUTY

38 SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY A student-friendly guide for sustainable beauty products.

42 ART

42 SUBMISSIONS

Photography and design work from readers and staff, including the cover shoot.

68 THE CORONAVIRUS DOCUMENTED A photo series of Paris in lockdown. 7

FEMINISM, FAST FASHION & SUSTAINABILITY Forget Keeping up with the Kardashians: keeping up with the latest fashion trends has become far more popular – but at what cost to our society and environment?

WORDS BY SOPHIE WILLIAMS PHOTO SUBMISSION BY KAROLINA JACÓBCZYK

Social media has amped up the pressure for all of us to be wearing the latest brands and accessories, causing a sharp rise in ‘fast fashion’. Online brands like Missguided, Pretty Little Thing and I Saw It First are a few names among the growing fast-fashion industry fighting to keep up with changing trends and to stay ahead of competitors on the high-street. Even the likes of Zara or Topshop aren’t exempt from this category. But this comes at a terrible price, to both the environment and those who make the garments. Shopping for clothes is cheaper than ever, but the environmental consequences of fast fashion are shocking. The fashion industry is the second biggest polluter after oil, which comes as no surprise when we look at our shopping habits. The UK is the epi-

single domestic wash o 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon emissions were produced by the global fashion industry (2015) o 3,781 litres of water are used in the lifetime of a pair of Levi’s 501 jeans Synthetic fabrics, like polyester, require a lot of energy to be produced, and the production process emits a lot of harmful gases into the atmosphere. See it this way: when we buy polyester clothes, we’re wearing fossil fuels. Not such a cute look now, is it? So where does feminism come into this? Most garment workers in the factories creating the latest cycling short or organza top are women or young girls. Put simply, they are exploited for their cheap labour in thirdworld countries, as this type of work is considered more “feminine” because of the intricacy of sewing and working

"THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS THE SECOND BIGGEST POLLUTER AFTER OIL, WHICH COMES AS NO SURPRISE WHEN WE LOOK AT OUR SHOPPING HABITS". centre of fast fashion in Europe with each person buying around 26.7kg of clothing every year – the equivalent of over forty-three pairs of shoes! I think we can all agree this is a bit excessive, right? But we just can’t seem to help ourselves. Because of our buying habits, fashion items are fast becoming another type of single-use product – the ever-changing fashion trends meaning that the lifespan of clothing can be very short. According to the Environmental Audit Committee: o 235 million items of clothing were sent to landfill in 2017 o 700,000 fibres are released in a

with fabrics, in comparison to more industrial jobs. In 2013, the horrific Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh began to open people’s eyes to the harsh reality behind these fast-fashion brands. The collapse of the building, which housed five garment factories, killed over 1,130 people and injured a further 2,500. Since then, a further 109 accidents have taken place across the globe due to the poor working conditions and unsafe working environments - and these figures are only the ones we know about. How can we be more sustainable with our fashion choices? There are ethical fashion brands out there fighting fast fashion which use

eco-friendly fabrics and non-toxic dyes, all while paying their workers a fair wage. Although slightly pricier, they tend to last longer and are recyclable. However, if you’re short on money, there are ways to shop on a budget and still be environmentally conscious. Charity shops are a great alternative to high-street brands; you’ll be sure to find unique, one-ofa-kind pieces that have been donated by others – often in excellent condition and at a much cheaper price. Next time you’re tempted by the flash sale at your go-to store, firstly ask yourself: “Do I need more clothes?” Do I really need the same (or very similar) top in a different colour?” If the answer is yes, try to make a conscious effort of checking the clothing label to see whether the fabrics are Fairtrade or recyclable. This simple check can help reduce the impact your spending has on the world around us. Ethical Alternatives: People Tree - Working with Fairtrade producers, garment workers and farmers in the developing world to produce ethical clothing items. H&M - The high-street brand has a Conscious Exclusive collection, as well as its Global Garment initiative where you can recycle any unwanted clothes, regardless of the brand. Cudoni - sell and shop luxury goods in a more ethical way by letting others get good use out of them. Charity Shops – shops like Scope, Cancer Research UK, and Marie Curie are great alternatives to high-street and online brands. You’ll often find the same brands, sometimes even a designer piece or two, for a much lower price.

The Broristas

The Hideout has been the campus go-to for a catch-up with your mates, a retreat from the term-time stress and a haven of quality coffee at affordable prices (ÂŁ1.80 for a flat white is giving Starbucks a run for its money!). SUBCULTURED writer Barney catches up with the dynamic duo, Charlie and Beau, to see what lies behind their creative coffee enterprise.

What’s been the best thing about running The Hideout this year? C: I think my answer would be, I have learnt so much about mindset this semester. Is that too deep? Tell me more. C: I realised that The Hideout is as good as we feel it is, if that makes sense. So if we come in in a good mood, it’s literally the most wonderful place on planet earth; the energy, the atmosphere, the conversation. It’s perfect, man, it’s just hanging around with friends all day making pretty coffee. That’s a very, very cool job. B: Yeah, what he said. I think it’s so much more of a business than the coffee cart was last year. Now it’s more respectable. Who loves coffee more? C: Beau. B: (nods) Maybe… I think I care more about it. Well, not care more, but I’m a bit of a nerd when it comes to it. I’m always on Pinterest, looking at how to do latte art, different ways of brewing. But in terms of skill, it’s fairly level... What’s your usual at a coffee shop? C: A filter coffee or an espresso. What do you like about filter? C: The barista can’t f*ck it up is the short answer. So if you don’t trust them, then filter? B: If you go to Starbucks, then filter coffee. C: Yeah, I don’t trust anyone but Beau, I promise. I have trust issues. B: Likewise.

C: I mean, you’ve got the best baristas in Surrey here my man, why stoop lower? Let’s just get a filter coffee and move on, you know. You don’t wanna waste three quid here in Guildford, do you? C: Not on a burnt espresso. So, a bit more about yourself, Charlie. With the music - how long have you been playing guitar? C: I’ve been playing guitar since I was... fourteen? I always wanted to perform, not necessarily with a guitar, but it just so happened that I needed a guitar in order to perform. Is that a character trait of yours, wanting to get up there? C: Maybe I like people positively reinforcing me with their clapping - it feels good, I guess. It’s quite addictive. It’s like the best drug you can have, having a room full of people like, “Wow, he’s really good at what he does”, it’s very nice. That’s the thing, I don’t need confirmation from thousands of people; a handful of people in the moment is doing its job, actually making me feel on top of the world. And Beau, I know you’re into writing. Would you say you’re a poet, or you just like poetry? B: I know that on my Instagram it says I’m a poet... Poetry is really just the thing that I write most at the moment. I’ll write anything, to be honest. Articles, essays, the occasional short story. Is there a pinnacle of what you want to achieve, or just whatever comes? B: In terms of achievements, I wouldn’t

say there’s an ultimate goal. To be able to earn a living from it, I guess, that would be sweet. To be able to do it full time and not have to do anything else, I guess that’s the goal… I just like writing, anything more than that is just a bonus.

you argue with someone that you love that much?

So what brought you guys together, then? Did you bond over something? C: There was a cafe in Haslemere. They served mediocre coffee and the management was mediocre, and Beau and I found that the only thing that wasn’t mediocre there was each other, and we developed this really beautiful sense of humour together, [we had] lots of private jokes and managed to fill our days with laughter. As soon as Beau got the opportunity for someone to come and work with him, it was like, “Yo Charlie, come on man, and ... instantly, it was like we had started a new life.” B: The crazy thing is, when it’s midshift and you’ve got hundreds of orders coming in, and everyone’s f*cking miserable around you, it’s just hell. What you need is that person next to you, like that brother, that you can lean on and they can lean on you and they can carry you through the shift. That’s what I found in Charlie and I guess that’s what he found in me. Also with the music, the writing, the creativity, we just vibed on a whole bunch of other levels. And we were like, wouldn’t it be great if we started our own coffee shop? C: Ha-hahhh, yeah! B: And then a year later, what happened? C: We are running our own coffee shop. B: Yeah! C: We smashed it, man. Considering that we live together and work together, we’ve never ever had a disagreement. We’re both so honest with each other, there’s just a lot of love. How can

We <3 Coffee

ps! u C y a w a N o Take What would you say are the biggest sustainability issues for your customers? C: I think there’s still a massive lack of awareness, and a lack of desire to change. And also, a lot of the biodegradable packaging isn’t actually

time to make the effort. But they need to, we all need to. So solution 1, ‘No Takeaway Cups’ that’s what’s written on your wall, isn’t it?

BRORISTAS

C: Yeah, just get rid of them. I think someone needs to come up with smarter material to make these cups out of, because it’s frustrating when you want a coffee, but you walk into a coffee shop without your cup and you feel bad because you’ll put it in a bin and know it’s gonna go somewhere where it’s not supposed to. That’s why we just say, bring in your own [cup]. And it helps when your prices are so good. That £1.80 flat white! B: Yeah, we wanted the prices to be super super cheap to encourage people to come, and the university puts us under no pressure to sell at what we should be selling it for. Is there that temptation to charge more?

The Hi deo u t xo biodegradable or it takes years for it to biodegrade... cups, straws, lids, packaging... I think the main problem is that everyone is saying, “Okay, there’s a problem with the environment, here’s our solution”, but the solution isn’t a solution. B: And people will take it at face value because it’s convenient… People are busy, they don’t necessarily have the

C: No. I could have it lower, to be honest. Because, I like it when people go “WOW! That’s so CHEAP.” B: We just want people to be able to taste what really good coffee tastes like, and not for them to be priced out of it. So - The Hideout in a nutshell? C: You can be anyone, you can be doing anything, you don’t have to have a lot of money, you don’t have to be doing anything… Anyone can use it for whatever they want and I think that’s what I like about it. It’s not a coffee shop, it’s a space with good coffee in it. Words by Barney Venable Photography by The Hideout

we need to talk about...

ECO-ANXIETY

Some bad news: humans are facing an environmental crisis, and a lot of us are getting rather nervous about it. Does all the talk of emissions, pollution, or climate change ever fill you with an impending sense of doom? You may be suffering from eco-anxiety.

Words by Will Brook But some good news: the best way to

crisis, with this figure as high as 40% among 16-24 year- olds. fight the fear is to take positive action In many ways, eco-anxiety seems that benefits yourself and others. So keep reading if you want to learn more to be a rational response to a threat that continues to intensify. 2019 was about this ugly new term, as we look labelled by many as ‘Year Zero’, or the at ways to help students keep their beginning of the ever-worsening clieco-anxiety at bay. mate crisis. Last year, Europe sweltered What is eco-anxiety? Defined by the American Psychological Association through the hottest month ever recorded with 20% of Aussie forests reduced in 2017 as ‘a chronic fear of environmental doom’, eco-anxiety is a relatively to ash and severe flooding drowning much of central and eastern Africa. Unnew term. It hasn’t been classified yet fortunately, these are just a handful of as a medical condition or disorder, but the extreme weather occurrences conthat doesn’t make it any less real. In fact, it appears to be on the rise. Recent firmed by climate scientists to be the research by Triodos Bank found that on direct result of our actions. It doesn’t take a genius to work out that as sea average 29% of Brits feel levels rise, so too will our overwhelmed by the climate change

Photo submission by Abraham Chinye

concerns surrounding the environment. But if we act fast, there’s still time. How can I manage my eco-anxiety? The main root of our eco-anxiety is guilt. We’re all guilty of, well, feeling guilt from time to time. But cut yourself some slack! Doing your bit, be it big or small, is something to feel proud of. You don’t have to be faultless in your quest to mitigate climate change. David Attenborough, whose adventures have left him with a pretty hefty carbon footprint, is one of the main faces of environmental activism … but is anyone calling him out? Of course not – some aspects of our lives are unavoidable. It’s about trying to have the greatest positive impact based on the things you can change. Why not make an effort to reduce your fast-fashion consumption by rocking some vintage clothes and encouraging others to do the same? If fashion isn’t your thing, why not create eco-friendly vegan recipes to share with your pals? Ethical consumption (thinking carefully about the products you purchase) is another simple, but large, positive contribution you can make to reduce climate change. Maybe you’re a social media junkie with a strong following – try using your account as a voice for change. You can share news and tips to encourage others to start thinking about the environment more ... If you manage to influence even one person to change their behaviour for the better, then you’ve absolutely nothing to feel guilty about . Other ways to do your bit for the planet You might be thinking to yourself: ‘I already do all I can for the environment, but I don’t think it’s enough’. It’s important to remember that taking

action can go beyond lifestyle changes - though they go a long way. Another way to alleviate the ‘planet panic’ is by engaging in politics. Influencing government policy will be crucial in overcoming the ongoing climate crisis, and thanks to a little thing called democracy, students like you can help shape the future of our planet. The next time you have the chance to vote – whether it’s in a national, local or university election – vote, and make your vote count. Stay informed 2020 is the age of connectivity, social media and globalisation – almost everyone and everything has a voice. But the noise of the web can make it difficult to distinguish between information and misinformation. The next time you read something that alarms you, take time to evaluate the source before clicking the link. It’s not worth getting anxious over sensationalist headlines or fake news. That said, it’s still important to educate yourself. Why not take advantage of your Surrey student status and enrol for free into the GGA (Global Graduate Award) class on sustainability? Each weekly two-hour lecture informs students about a specific topic in sustainability - there’s even a lecture on the psychology of sustainability, ideal for gaining a deeper understanding of eco-anxiety. Further support If you feel your eco-anxiety is getting in the way of things, or if it’s seriously affecting your emotional well-being, it may be time to seek professional help. At Surrey, you have access to counselling at the Centre for Wellbeing, the ideal place to get advice and support. Feel free to contact them via email at centreforwellbeing@surrey.ac.uk.

Green Got To Get Are you concerned about the amount of waste you produce? Or are you looking for a lifestyle change that will save you some money? Think smart and say goodbye to the guilt of generating waste with our list of every day switches. Photo submission by Manzoor Zafi

Words by Daisy Colley

Ditch cling film for reusable beeswax wraps Cling film is everywhere in our lives. It is used in food manufacturing, in supermarkets and in most households. Reusable beeswax wraps are one of many innovative solutions to cutting out plastic. Each wrap is water-resistant, easy to clean and moulds to fit its purpose. These completely natural and organic wraps are compostable and cuter than cling film.

Switch to soap nuts

deal and buy a reusable lunch kit, containing cutlery and a lunchbox to put food in. It can be used for both packed lunches and your favourite lunchtime takeaways. These lunch kits are widely available online in a range of styles, ethically sourced bamboo, stainless steel or glass, to suit your aesthetic.

Never forget to bring a bag

Packing your bag before you go anywhere to anticipate how you might create waste on the go is a great way to cut down. A trusty tote can fit a water bottle, coffee cup and any spontaneous purchases, so you can limit waste before you even leave the house.

2 6 3 7 Washing detergent contains chemicals which harm aquatic life. A sustainable and low-cost way to remove such dangerous waste is by swapping to Indian wash nuts. These 100% biodegradable nuts have been used for centuries and are known for their antibacterial properties. The nuts lather naturally when put in the wash with hot water, and can be used for multiple washes before being composted in your garden. This way of washing your clothes is more sustainable, gentler on your skin and kinder to your bank account.

Elevate tea time with loose leaf tea

Being British, drinking tea is a way of life, but sadly this means a lot of teabags are thrown away; with many containing microplastics, it is a nightmare for the planet. Buying loose leaf tea and a tea-strainer means that not only your tea tastes better, but it literally comes with no strings attached as the tea Try compostable sponges leaves can be composted. A guilt free Synthetic household sponges are made cuppa is always a win! using plastics that canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be recycled and end up polluting the oceans with Bulk buy microplastics. By contrast, compostable sponges can be used multiple One of the best ways to cut out waste is times and are 100% biodegradable, so by shopping in stores which allow you you can compost them when they are to bring your own containers, such as ready for the bin. Whole Foods, Waitrose and local markets. Foods are stored in bulk without any packaging, and you can take your Go old school and dig out the own containers along to avoid generatlunch box ing unnecessary waste. Because price is calculated by weight, food shopping Takeaway, fast food and pre-packaged can often work out much cheaper, and lunches generate 11 billion items of buying in larger quantities means that packaging waste a year. Ditch the meal your cupboard reserves last longer.

GREENER WAYS TO BLEED Your Guide to Sustainable Periods Words by Alice Papadopoulou

menstrual products is also beneficial to our own health. More sustainable alterenstruation is a regular part natives significantly reduce the risk of of the month: along with bleeding, contracting bacterial infections or Toxic cramps, headaches, and an intense Shock Syndrome, which are associated craving for something sweet, or something salty, or both, one after the other, with tampons. Though the risk is not it also brings with it the necessary para- high, it is a fact that during the bleachphernalia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; tampons and sanitary pads. ing process tampons are treated with chemicals, and, as a result, they have Sanitary products, although a also been held accountable for drying monthly necessity, amount to 200,000 the vaginal wall of its lining and affecttonnes of waste per year. Plastic from menstrual products can take anywhere ing its natural flora. This is a problem that eco-conscious manufacturers are from 500 to 800 years to decompose actively trying to avoid. in a landfill and those disposed of by Switching our routine can be flushing the toilet can pollute the sea with microplastics. Given the frequency overwhelming with all the options available and there is no one fool-proof, of use, it is estimated that the average woman will throw away 10,000 to 15,000 100-percent green and perfect product, but the goal is to start incorporating pads and tampons in her lifetime, so any step towards reducing that amount more sustainable products into your routine and find alternatives that work of waste will have a huge impact. for you. Taking a different approach to

Illustration by Wajeeha Abbasi, @wa_illustrations

Here are a few ideas to get you started...

BABY STEPS: SUSTAINABLE PADS AND TAMPONS TOTM (Time of the Month) This brand is a classic. If you are concerned about the carbon footprint involved in the transport of shopping to you, then this one is a winner, as all it takes for you to pick it up is a walk to your nearest Tesco or Superdrug. The company offers organic pads, tampons with or without applicators, and liners, all made from organic cotton and in biodegradable packaging. Unlike conventional cotton, which is a pesticide-heavy crop, the farming of organic cotton is more sustainable. The brand takes special care in the ingredients of its products and each product caters to all levels of flow, be it light, medium, or heavy.

ic. The emphasis for the brand is clear: be kind to the planet and your body. Exactly because of those kind ingredients, Natracare pads and tampons can be composted.

Dame Dame is the first reusable tampon applicator, the answer to the thousands of applicators thrown away each year. The applicator is self-sanitising, which means there is no particular disinfecting ritual required between uses, and it works with all tampons. The first subscription box is free if you are based in the UK and it offers six tampons along with the applicator – enough for you to practice using it, guided by the instructions. Once you become used to it, you won’t be needing an applicator for at least 10 years.

Wear ‘Em Out

Another thing you could try is buying reusable pads. These are shaped like conventional pads and include wings Natracare that clip on your underwear. Unlike conventional pads, they are made of You may have glanced at Natracare breathable, leak-resistant, absorbable in one of those special trips to Waitmaterial that reduces the risk of bacrose, but it can also be ordered online terial infection and can last for years. for fans of organic tampons and plasOnce you are done with them, you tic-free pads – or even biodegradable chuck them in the wash and hang wipes. The products are also chlothem to air-dry. WEO pads come in a rine-free, as they forego traditional range, so you can find one that suits bleaching methods which produce diyour flow, and are made in Britain. oxin, a pollutant that is also carcinogen- Other brands for organic or reusable

tampons and pads include: Callaly, OHNE, Hey Girls, Maxim, Bloom and Nora, Honour Your Flow, Earthwise Girls.

UP YOUR GAME Period Underwear. Literally. We all probably have some sad, wornout underwear that we reserve for ‘those days.’ But the sustainable period community has put a spin on that by offering actual period pants that keep the comfort of your designated period-wear but can also retain up to four tampons worth of your blood without you feeling a thing. They have received a lot of love from people who find them ultra-cute and attest to wearing them all day. They work similarly to reusable pads: a rinse will do to quickly get the blood out, then throw them in the wash and hang to dry like normal underwear. Thinx is a very popular brand, committed as much to ethical manufacturing as to offering many cute designs, but also take note of WUKA and Modibody.

Menstrual Cups – Moons, Divas, and everything in between. Last but not least, let us address what has been called all sorts of names, but is essentially a cup that collects your blood. Another long-lasting and

cost-effective solution, these cups are reusable funnels, made usually from silicone, that you unfold and place at the base of your vagina. The silicone degrades much more easily than plastic and the cup is less invasive than a tampon. It is not that much unlike a pad, except you get to empty your little cup of blood instead of throwing it away. If placed correctly (and yes, it takes practice, just as wearing that first tampon did), the cup is designed to support you even in your heaviest days and is secure enough for swimming and other exercise. One cup needs to be changed once every 12 hours – which is basically only twice a day – and, with proper care, can last up to 10 years. Curious? You can have your pick of cute names and designs to try: Mooncup, Intimina Lily Cup, Saalt Cup, Diva Cup, OrganiCup, the Cup Effect. Some helpful resources to get you started:

o Video: I Tried Every Sustainable

Period Product So You Don't Have To | Lucy Moon

o How to Have a Period Without Ruining the Planet (vice.com)

o A Guide to Getting Into Menstrual Cups (vice.com)

o 7 of the best eco-friendly sanitary brands you need to know about (stylist.co.uk)

VOLUNTE 28

WHY YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE BEFORE EERING ABROAD Words by Eve Willis Photo submission by Ioanna Fotiadi

there. When it comes to building a school or health centre, counselling children, or rehabilitating endangered OVID-19 has put an abrupt halt wildlife, students and gap-year travon all our upcoming travel plans, but ellers alike are largely unqualified or rest assured: it will pass. Before you unsuited for the task. know it, we’ll all be back on KAYAK or Samantha Nutt, founder of War Skyscanner spending our well-earned Children Canada, has worked with the money and freedom trawling the United Nations for many years. Nuty Internet for holiday inspo and cheap Ryanair flights. However, for the many argues that the money spent by students travelling to remote locations young people looking to travel or go on a gap year, volunteering (usually in would be far better spent on training some far-flung country) is high on the the local population and providing reagenda. At the click of the button, you sources to encourage a self-sufficient community. The most common miscan find countless websites offering wholesome, enriching and life-chang- take we make is presuming that we need to do the work ourselves to help ing “volunteer experiences”. these communities when in reality, “Voluntourism” experiences are the best model for international deoften advertised with a deluge of benefits: enriching your CV, travelling velopment is when the members of disadvantaged communities are givabroad, making lifelong friends and en the tools necessary to enact posimemories, all while making a meaningful impact. The increasing demand tive, sustainable change. Although voluntourism is an for these experiences has been capitalised upon by these volunteer-tour- industry injected with thousands of foreign dollars from young globe ism companies - and it is easy to see trotters, this wealth is not translated why. Many people are willing to pay into any considerable societal benefit. up to $2000 for a single week of volIn fact, the money is often retained by unteering! So, what’s the catch? the international volunteer compa Unfortunately, the lucrative nature of the industry means that many nies themselves. The UN has declared that the volunteer-tourism experiences are designed first and foremost to benefit number of orphanages in Cambodia has continually risen since the Khmer the volunteer, without much considRouge regime, with little genuine eferation for the people in need of the fort, or incentive, from these projects aid provided by such schemes. to reduce the number of children livVery few people who travel to less ing in poverty. If anything, the endaneconomically developed countries germent of children is perpetuated: as realise the true impact of their visit. long as foreign visitors keep shelling The reality is that as well-intentioned as the volunteer may be, undertaking out to come and “help out”, these children will be kept in poverty. This apa volunteer-tourism program often proach to development is damaging, causes more harm than good. especially to children. The majority of volunteers are We all know the classic Instaunskilled young people, who typically have little to offer to the communities gram posts where Westerners take pictures with big groups of kids, all for the short period of time they are

grinning and laughing. In reality, though, the short period of time people spend volunteering in orphanages or at schools creates an unnatural environment where children are encouraged to treat strangers with undue affection. This behaviour is indicative of psychological issues that arise in children who regularly experience the instability of building bonds with volunteers who always leave. The orphanage is a societal model commonly deemed by countries such as the UK or US as detrimentally damaging to children. So why is it acceptable for orphanages to exist in Asia for the sole purpose of tourists to fulfil their saviour fantasy, when 80% of these children in Cambodia have a living parent? Why are the social issues which lie at the root of the cause, such as education and healthcare, not being addressed? Sadly, it all comes down to money. This is not to say all voluntourism is bad; there are many organisations that work hard to provide sustainable support in developing countries. However, the cruel commercialised market that has risen in tow with the popular wave of eco-tourism has given rise to superficial voluntourism experiences which only cause further harm. More than anything else, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s money that goes far in struggling countries. So before you spend thousands of your hard-earned pounds on some volunteer-tourism experience, try to consider whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll actually be causing more harm than good. Sometimes, spending money responsibly as a tourist, sight-seeing and shopping in local markets or booking adventure trips could be a much more sustainable way of supporting people at a disadvantage.

Photography by Eve Willis

The Problem with Middle-Class Activism

Now more than ever, taking a stance and fighting for what you believe in is vital. The activism of Gandhi, Martin Luther King, Mandela paved the way for socio-political change and has revolutionised the way people fight for issues that truly matter. But come the

21st century have we lost our readiness or our ability to campaign, march and chain ourselves to buildings in protest? Is being an activist really possible for young people? And are campaigns to combat the climate crisis being taken seriously enough?

Scrolling through Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, it seems like everyone with Internet access is now a self-proclaimed “activist”. OK – that sounded a bit too ‘boomer-y’, didn’t it? Let me try again: with all the (mis)information circling around nowadays, it is arguably our moral obligation to stand up for important issues, particularly if the consequences of inaction involve the overall collapse of modern human civilization. But liking a post or retweeting Greta Thunberg at 2AM perhaps isn’t sufficient to call yourself an activist… or is it? Doing your bit when you’re on a budget makes things that much harder. As Heng Chen wrote for the London School of Economics, within most movements it’s usually the middle classes that do most of the advocating. For movements like Extinction Rebellion and Greenpeace, as well as other

But vigilante-type protest puts others at risk; the protesters targeted tube stations at rush hour, which jeopardizes people’s livelihoods. For many, the reality is that they simply cannot afford not to go to work. But it’s not only a question of time or money – it’s also one of race, class and gender. Take Vanessa Nakate, a 23-year-old Ugandan activist who saw herself cropped out of a photo where she stood alongside Greta Thunberg and other white climate activists. Or take the recent Feminist Marches in Paris which saw police officers detaining women, using tear gas and hurling sexist abuse at peaceful protesters. Activism doesn’t pay the bills, and it’s risky. Even for those that are able to put themselves out there, fighting against the current can feel futile. Of course, this doesn’t mean you

"Activism doesn’t pay the bills, and it’s risky. Even for those that are able to put themselves out there, fighting against the current can feel futile" environmental groups or lobbies, this is undoubtedly the case. Of course, environmental issues affect everyone. So why don’t we see more people becoming activists and challenging the status quo? “But going to that march means I’d have to book a day off work, and I’m pretty tight on money … now that I come to think of it I need to save money for groceries. I’d totally buy vegan, Fairtrade and organic but it’s like three times the price. Oh, but I’ll totally stop using my ca- no, actually, my commute to work would double, and have you seen the cost of public transport nowadays? …” In October last year, Extinction Rebellion protestors were seen climbing on top of tube carriages, temporarily bringing tube lines to a standstill.

shouldn’t try to do your bit. It’s not about one person doing it perfectly, it’s about enough people, from all walks of life, doing their bit in any way they can to make changes in the world around us. There are plenty of things you can do to raise awareness and ensure meaningful, positive change: how about signing and sharing petitions? Writing letters to your local MP or getting in contact with lobbies? Reposting or supporting movements on social media? Or even boycotting brands and companies that are part of the problem? Regardless of your personal situation, there is always something to be done … whatever you can manage, whenever you can, now more than ever, it’s so important that we all take action. Words by Declan Purcell Photo submission by Chryssa Kanakaki

PLANT-BASED MEAL PLAN for students

Deciding what to eat can be such a hassle, especially if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re trying to include more plant-based options into your diet. Eating well and eating enough is very important, but we should also do our best to start eating sustainably. This helpful vegan meal plan will hopefully provide some ideas for some healthy, tasty meals that everyone will be able to make and enjoy, without having to break the bank!

By Beth Roberts

Recipe inspiration and image credits on page 90

BREAKFAST Apple Crisp INGREDIENTS o 5 granny smith apples, peeled and chopped o 3 tbsp coconut oil, melted o Â˝ pack chopped nuts (optional) o 120g flour, sifted o 120g shredded coconut (optional) o 2 crushed bananas o 2-3 tbsp brown rice syrup or coconut syrup o Âž tsp salt o 2 tbsp cinnamon

METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 180 degrees. 2. Place chopped apples in a baking tray. 3. Melt the coconut oil in a saucepan. 4. Mix the nuts (optional), melted coconut oil, flour, shredded coconut (optional), syrup, salt and cinnamon in a large bowl. The syrup can be adjusted for taste. 5. Add the bananas to the bowl and mix until crumbly. 6. Sprinkle the mixture over the apples and cover them completely. 7. Bake for 35-45 minutes. 8. Reheat each morning. 35

LUNCH Vegetable Sesame Noodles INGREDIENTS o 3 tbsp sesame oil o 1 tbsp soy sauce o 1 ½ tbsp rice vinegar o 1 tsp chili paste o 2 tbsp chopped fresh garlic o ½ packet fresh rice noodles o ½ red pepper, chopped o ½ pack edamame beans o a sprinkling of sesame seeds

METHOD 1. Put the sesame oil into a frying pan and sauté the garlic over a medium heat until the garlic begins to brown. 2. Add the soy sauce, rice vinegar and chili paste and stir together. 3. Mix the red pepper pieces and edamame beans into the frying pan. Cook for 3 minutes on high heat. 4. Pour the fresh rice noodles into the mixture and stir through until the noodles are coated in the sauce. 5. Sprinkle the sesame seeds on the noodles. 6. This meal can be served warm but the cold leftovers are also delicious! If you would like to incorporate a meat replacement, such as Quorn or tofu, this can be sautéed 36 with the garlic (see Step 1).

DINNER Red Lentil Dahl INGREDIENTS o 300g red lentils o 1 tsp salt o 2 tsp turmeric o 1 tbsp coconut oil o 1 clove garlic, chopped o 1 large chilli, chopped (depending on how much you like spice) o 3 chopped tomatoes o 6 chopped mushrooms

METHOD 1. Rinse and drain the lentils. Add up to 1 litre of water. 2. Add the salt and turmeric. Bring 5. Add the boiled lentils to the sauceto a boil. pan. Simmer for 10-15 minutes. 3. Simmer for 20 minutes. 6. Serve the meal with a leafy salad, 4. While the lentils are simmering, rice or steamed vegetables. As with the heat the coconut oil in a saucepan and sautĂŠ the garlic and chili. Add the noodles, a meat replacement can be added and you can sautĂŠ it with the tomatoes and mushrooms and cook garlic and chilli. for 3-4 minutes.

DESSERT Chocolate Banana Ice Cream INGREDIENTS o 1 frozen banana o 1 tsp cocoa powder

METHOD 1. In a blender, mix the frozen banana with the cocoa powder until the mixture is smooth. 2. Enjoy!

SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY REGIME

The beauty industry often finds itself in hot water when sustainability is mentioned. From the wide use of single-use packaging to animal testing, it can often be difficult to figure out which beauty brands are truly good for the planet, beyond their greenwashing marketing campaigns. To make it easy for you SUBCULTURED have put together a guide to sustainable beauty, with products from a number of brands in student-friendly prices!

Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) and offer a deliciously rich moisturiser at the low cost of £7.95, with no plastic packaging. It can be purchased at lookfantastic.com.

MAKEUP

Face

If you are looking to stock up on essentials, there’s nowhere better than The Body Shop with its 100% vegan makeup range. The Loose Face Powder is a perfect example; simultaneously lightweight and long-lasting at just £12.50, your makeup bag will thank you. Body PHB are a UK business and a rare exShop products are available at thebodample of a family-run company. They yshop.com, where you also have the offer a £16 Coffee Bean Scrub & Mask on option to send a care package for whotheir website phbethicalbeauty.co.uk, ever needs some support during quarwhich uses organic coffee beans. It is a antine. 2-in-1 exfoliating scrub and face mask, which aims to brighten and smoothen skin. The product is handmade, 100% vegan, not tested on animals, alcohol and palm-oil free, ethically sourced and Mascara is an essential item for most 20% of the profits made go to charity… makeup lovers, but it is difficult to find what’s not to love? a trusted brand! Arbonne’s £28 Speak Volumes mascara, although a little pricier, is worth the investment as it creates voluminous and natural-looking lashes. Available at arbonne.com. Shaving is a daily routine for many people and Bulldog has created a shave cream for sensitive skin, packaged in tubes derived from ethically sourced sugarcane. Whatever area you are shaving, this is a must-have product and it’s Axiology is mostly organic and sourconly £3.50. They also sell reusable bam- es packaging from a Bali-based, female-led initiative which recycles waste boo razors at £12; both products are products. The lipstick is slightly pricy, at available at bulldogskincare.com. £23-25 per item on axiologybeauty.com, but each one is totally palm-oil free, branded as “the only 10-ingredient lipstick,” and a percentage of the profits is Weleda are recognised by the Union for donated to the Orangutan Foundation.

SKINCARE

Exfoliate

Eyes

Shave

Lips

Moisturise

Tools Everyone needs a high-quality brush and whilst there are a number of makeup brushes with bamboo handles on sale, few companies are dedicated to a sustainable future. Spectrum Brushes, however, have cut their plastic packaging by 50% in 2018 and give 1% of revenue to plastic clean-up companies. Their MB06 brush is an easy choice and at only £5.99 you will be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner. Available at spectrumcollections.com.

Be beautiful and help the planet MAKEUP REMOVAL Last year, Simple became one of the first mainstream brands to switch to 100% post-consumer recycled bottles (seen as PCR on labels), a huge step away from the single-use plastic favoured in the industry. Simple’s Micellar Cleansing Water is gentle and soft and it removes heavy makeup effectively. It is also widely available in most supermarkets and drugstores at only £6.99. Finally, if you want to get rid of those plastic cotton buds, Hydro Phil have developed biodegradable bamboo and cotton swabs which come in a recycled box. These buds are £2.50 for 100 and are available at plasticfreedom.co.uk. Words by Beth Roberts

Photo submission by Amel Talli

ART T

For issue 6, SUBCULTURED hosted a competition, inviting readers and staff to submit their photography, design or illustration work under the theme 'A New Earth'. The quality of work was incredible and we couldn't resist showcasing a further selection of art submissions from young creatives on topics such as sustainability, nature, climate change, and the coronavirus pandemic.

Photo submission 26 by Alim Haque, @alimagery 43

27 46

“People and the Ocean” by Victoria Koch 48

Art submission by Sophia Newman 51

63 52

Photo submission by Patricia Pelea 53

Poster submission by Patricia Santos

Illustration by Polilovi in collaboration with creative agency Superfriendly: https://superfriendlydesign.systems/covid19/

COVER GIRL Model and exchange student Vita Levytska submitted a photo-shoot she was featured in, earning her spot on the cover of the issue.

Photographer: Arsen Krasii Stylist: Marta Levytska Nails: Alina Svyryd Model: Vita Levytska

41 64

45 68

THE CORONAVIRUS DOCUMENTED Photographer Chris Lee takes us on a journey around Paris during lockdown.

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59 84

REFERENCES Plant-Based Meal Plan for Students Godwin, S., 2016. Vegan Chocolate Banana Ice Cream. [online] BBC Good Food. Available at: https://www. bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/vegan-chocolate-banana-ice-cream [Accessed 5 May 2020]. Smith, M., 2019. Thai Noodle Salad with Sesame Peanut Sauce. [online] Available at: https://grilledcheesesocial.com/2019/07/31/ thai-noodle-salad-sesame-peanut-sauce/?fbclid=IwAR2jMSAd_2zZ3UyZeachsnzR2SiQJeTnIl84lfl3D2UKw0dRk2jGzgLn69o [Accessed 5 May 2020]. The Wanderlust Kitchen. 2020. Indian Red Lentil Dal. [online] Available at: https://thewanderlustkitchen. com/indian-red-lentil-dal/?fbclid=IwAR1zEzePM_ o5R3kIdIUZweZ6egUfbsLhf5pCNKmLH2j31s-ykIPe1Jrfbmo [Accessed 5 May 2020]. Wellness And Workouts. 2019. Best Paleo Apple Crisp Recipe. [online] Available at: https://www.wellness-and-workouts.com/best-apple-crisp-recipe. html?fbclid=IwAR38QNguq7x2uQAIk9K-6eogUPJfKEzQlSDm_Ma9Uid8Hg0BNFxAH_AS874 [Accessed 5 May 2020].

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