SUBCULTURED. Issue 5: The Student Issue - May 2018 by subculturedmag

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR. Welcome to our first print edition, ‘The Student Issue’, curated for you, our student readers, who have supported and read SUBCULTURED for the past two years. This time last year, we were preparing for our first print issue but due to an unforeseen error, it didn’t happen. It was devastating, but as a team we learnt from our mistakes and took responsibility for our actions. As a result, we were able to acquire the funds a second time for our first print issue with the support of the Students’ Union, which I’m incredibly grateful for. Now on my placement year, I have been able to apply the skills I’ve gained from SUBCULTURED to my placement company, MATCHESFASHION.COM and conversely, I’ve been able to gain knowledge from work which I have utilised for the magazine. At times it has been difficult to balance the two, alongside maintaining my health, social life and general adulting, but slowly but surely I’ve learnt how to balance my life as a ‘working professional’ alongside everything else, and get some rest and relaxation in the process. #WelcomeToAdulthood On the other hand, we had an exciting time producing the content in this issue, tailoring it to our student readership, including an interview with Oxford graduate and former producer at Wonderland Magazine, Emmanuelle

Soffe, on her budding career in shoot production and casting, a trip to Cornwall photographing the creative students of Falmouth University and an article detailing the hidden hotspots of our university town, Guildford. Our digital issue on issuu.com/subculturedmag also contains more exclusive content, including a feature with embroidery artist Hannah Hill (@hanecdote), and other student-focused editorials. 2018 marks an interesting year for SUBCULTURED as many of our original team members from the magazine’s launch in 2016 are graduating from the University of Surrey. Fortunately, the majority are staying on the SUBCULTURED team due to undertaking postgraduate studies, however, our Editorial Director, Katherine Skippon, will be moving on to pastures new. She has been a vital contributor to SUBCULTURED’s success and has guided the editorial content of the magazine since day 1 with her strong work ethic and enthusiasm, which has allowed us to provide you with weekly content on our website. We are going to miss her but I look forward to seeing where the rest of her editorial career will go! I also want to give a shout out to the rest of the #SUBCULTUREDSQUAD – directors and content creators alike, for putting this issue together. And lastly, I’m really looking forward to coming back to university for my final year and continuing the SUBCULTURED journey. But for now, I hope you enjoy our first print issue!

SUBCULTURED. Editor-In-Chief and Creative Director REBECCA COFIE Managing Director Alice (Vasiliki) Papadopoulou DIRECTORS Editorial Director Katherine Frances Skippon Editorial Assistants Holly Butteriss, Florrie Reeves Photo Director Setareh Sanjarani Photo Assistant Natalie Carter Art and Design Director Esther Woodbridge Online Director Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham Picture Researcher/Instagrammer Donna Darafshian Videography Director Niki Ho Videography Assistants Ana-Maria Udriste, Shelly Waksman Marketing Director Olivia Mitchell Marketing Assistants Ailsa Davidson, Atika Budianti Street Style Director Alim Haque Street Style Assistant Diana Shaplyko Events Directors Shyla Gautam, Chimuka Mukonka WRITERS Alastair McGinness, Alice (Vasiliki) Papadopoulou, Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham, Katherine Frances Skippon, Olivia Mitchell, Rebecca Cofie, Ellie Hamill, Serim Park, Holly Butteriss PHOTOGRAPHERS 99 Piece: Dev Darbar Students in Dorm Rooms: Alim Haque Kids of Falmouth: Rebecca Cofie The Hidden Gems of Guildford: Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit: Anna Irina MODELS 99 Piece: Abi Burns, Ella Gannon, Tobi Hassan, Tyler Mondesir Kids of Falmouth: Janelle Joyce, Monetté Allison, AÏDA The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit: Donna Darafshian, G.K, Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham, Nathaniel Jr. Berthier, Simon Ebenezer MAKEUP 99 Piece: Soraya Babolhavaeji The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit: Holly Gibbons POST-PRODUCTION 99 Piece: Dev Darbar Kids of Falmouth: Janelle Joyce The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit: Anna Irina MAY 2018

SUBCULTUREDMAG.COM

SUBCULTURED. CONTENTS MAY 2018

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Life After Graduation: An Interview with Emmanuelle Soffe 99 Piece

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Presha: An Interview with Connor Giltrap

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Meet South Korean Model So Young Sim

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A Conversation with Hanecdote

Surrey University Campus Street Style

Students In Their Dorm Rooms

The Kids Of Falmouth University The Hidden Gems Of Guildford The Truth About Placement Year The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit

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Life After Graduation: An Interview with Emmanuelle Soffe Text: Katherine Frances Skippon

he university year is fast drawing to a close and for many final year students, this can be a daunting time. From the nerves about impending exams and coursework, to the downright fear of stepping into the world of unemployment sans student loans; graduate life can appear impossible to navigate. However, SUBCULTURED spoke to Emmanuelle Soffe, an Oxford graduate, working in fashion production and casting in London having worked as the Production Director at Wonderland Magazine, Gay Times and Man About Town Magazine. We asked about her first year going it alone and how you can make it after graduation too. Discussing her initial interest in fashion, Emmanuelle said “At the end of my first year at Oxford, I decided to apply to an editorial role at the student paper- I wanted to be the Arts Editor. They didn’t give it to me, but they offered me the fashion editor role and told me that if I did it for a term, I might have a better chance of getting the Arts Editor role the term after.I was outraged at first; I didn’t know anything about fashion and because of all of the conventional stereotypes I assumed it was all a bit superficial. But with a bit of thought, I realised that I had actually always loved conceptual shoots in magazines like Hunger, i-D and Dazed, and that fashion and art weren’t actually worlds apart.

So I started working on the shoots for the student paper and after a few weeks, realised that despite the fact that I didn’t know anything about the industry, I had a good sense of aesthetics and had a bit of a knack for art direction. Afterwards, I founded my own fashion, arts and identity politics magazine called PAN. My team and I wanted to create a magazine that really pushed for diversity and intersectionality, covering a wide range of social issues.” Aside from the extra-curricular activities, for some graduates university may have just made them realise they don’t click with the subject they chose. So how important are specific degree subjects for getting a job in the fashion industry? Emmanuelle studied History of Art, and replied “I think that the really high levels of pressure at Oxford, particularly whilst juggling a silly amount of extra-curricular projects - helped me cope with the intense pressures of being a Production Director so soon after uni . It definitely helped me hit the ground running.” So, perhaps it’s less about your subject, and more to do with the work ethic you have? “History of Art as a subject is really broad and so elements of it have of course helped me since. We did a lot of reading on post-colonialism and gender and the constructs of sexuality- all things that have helped me see existing social inequality and perhaps think about how our work in fashion can help deconstruct embedded prejudices and ease existing divides. I’m not sure that History of Art specifically helped me get into fashion; it definitely came down to the extra-curricular I was involved in. I’m really glad that in my second year I realised that a degree from Oxford wouldn’t be enough to get me a job in fashion and so threw all of my energy into getting as much intern experience as possible.” And Emmanuelle’s best advice for students graduating this year, looking to get into the industry? “Unlike a lot of industries, it’s a lot less common to apply to graduate schemes in fashion and it’s unlikely that you’ll get very far applying to jobs without any experience in the industry already. If you don’t know anyone in the industry who can help you get an internship then it’s definitely not the end of the world- which is contrary to what everyone told me when I first started. My advice would be to email people directly- if you can find one person’s email from the team then you basically know everyone’s email from the team, all you have to do is switch the names around. Go on Models. com and look through the names and the portfolios of the people in the industry who are achieving what you want to achieve. Then: Google them, find them on LinkedIn and if that doesn’t find you their email address then use Instagram as a last resort. Pop them a short introductory message and ask for their email address and you can 10

continue on there. Don’t be afraid to ask people for internships or work experience. Actually most of my interviews and small jobs have come through messaging on Instagram- people are a lot less likely to ignore you that way because I guess you feel more like a real person.” And some advice on making your social media profile a hireable one: “Make sure your Instagram looks good and that you put your work on there- people look at that and they’ll have formed an opinion of you within a minute or two. It’s unlikely that you’ll get anything paid at the start, but it isn’t impossible to manage this either- despite what people say. You’d be surprised at the amount of of successful people in the industry who didn’t have financial support from the parents and who have fought really hard for what they now have; and if it meant working 9 hours a day interning and then 5 hours in the evening behind a bar six days a week, then so be it.” So what about when you actually land a job in the industry? “I think that all magazines are slightly different when you intern there and interns often don’t have an entirely positive experience, though it’s by no means always as bad as people say. You should always give a hundred and ten percent to everything because even if it seems like no one is paying attention to you, people do notice a good intern. If you do well at your job and people like you, you can get yourself a paid position pretty quickly- even as quickly as two or three months; because the industry has such a high turnover, they’re always looking for new people- you just have to prove yourself. A lot of internships are unpaid in fashion and that’s also something you should be prepared for if fashion is what you want to do. It can be difficult but I would always remind myself that it was going to pay-off in the long term.” If you want to get a good job in the fashion industry, London is the best place to start interning and getting experience. We asked Emmanuelle how she finds living in such a notoriously expensive city, and why she thinks it’s totally worth it: “London is such a fantastic city- you can really find the people you vibe with, explore a dozen different nightlife scenes and every week come across a new bubble in the city that you didn’t know about . I grew up in a small village on the northern border of England and Wales, and so I think that the opportunities available to me in London still fill me with so much excitement. If you’re someone like me who is super-fast-paced, wants a wide range of life-experiences, and to meet lots of diverse characters, perspectives and cultures, then London is a big playground. It has such a great energy.” 11

“Of course, living in London can be a job too. nightmare financially. London is one of the most expensive cities in the world and Speaking of expensive living costs, and what would be seen as a decent wage the struggle to get where we want to be, back up North, in London is often barely Emmanuelle discussed some of the lower enough. I have struggled financially, like points in her career so far: “Fashion is not everyone else- but I think that at the end an easy industry. Nothing is going to fall of the day, your drive and passion for what into your lap- if you don’t go out of your you are doing keeps you afloat. If you want way to email people (repeatedly), call to make places up, something “The two important things to remember chase contacts work, it’s etc. then it’ll about the fashion industry are this: going to feel like it’s an work. If firstly, you’ve got to want it more than impenetrable it means world. But the anything. Secondly, you can’t give up.” doing more people stupid you meet and hours, tutoring online, buying and selling the more you go out of your way to show clothes on eBay for a profit, or even taking people that you’re keen and willing to six months out to work behind a bar and learn, the more things will work out for you. save money for rent. I’m not willing to The two important things to remember let my lack of financial means disrupt my about the fashion industry are this: firstly, career in the long run, so I’ve really gone you’ve got to want it more than anything. to all extents to make it work- it’s been Secondly, you can’t give up.” tough, but I’ve managed it.” But if financial support is an issue for you when you Ultimately, what seems to ring true graduate, there’s always the possibility of in everything Emmanuelle says is the finding alternative routes to your dream importance of determination and doing 12

everything you can to achieve your goals, because when it starts to pay off, it’ll be more than worth it. “Often, the highlights for me have been some of the sets that have just fallen into place effortlessly. It’s so nice when you have an entire team that vibe really well together and everyone has fun on set. It’s often reflected in the quality of the images too.” When asked about where she’d like her career to go from here, Emmanuelle said “Funnily enough, I entered the fashion industry with the intention of moving into film as soon as I had a decent amount of production experience under my belt. Recently I decided that now is the time to transfer to the film industry and start working as a freelance producer . A lot of the skills I gained as Production Director at Wonderland Magazine are pretty transferable to film. The experience I gained with fashion of hammering down people’s doors to get where I want is invaluable but people are a lot more responsive in film. I guess what that shows really is that fashion is the worst industry when it comes to email replies/ successful

job applications and that if you don’t get a positive response straight away, it’s not at all a reflection of you. You just have to keep going! And finally, Emmanuelle gave her 3 top tips on how to survive life after graduation, and getting into the industry you want: 1. There are probably people who have a better CV than you and have more relevant experience. Don’t let that deter you- let it motivate you! Learn how to make yourself stand out more than them. 2.Always be friendly, nice and down-to-earth with everyone you work with. People will remember you for that and it’s so important not to let a job title change the way you treat people whose position is below yours. In fashion, you can lose your position at any point, tables turn all the time. Don’t be a dick- it won’t work out for you. 3. Never turn down an opportunity to gain experience, no matter how small. The absolute key to success is to be an opportunist. 13

99 PIECE Not many students can boast about having their own headwear line, but Toren Scott is not one of these students. With a diverse and stylish range that focuses on authentic designs and quality, 99Piece provides statement headwear that fits well with the student spirit. Only 99 of each design are produced and sold, highlighting the uniqueness of the products and the care that is taken to produce each item. The designs speak for themselves. More on: 99piece.com

Creative Direction: Setareh Sanjarani Creative Assistant: Natalie Carter Photographer: Dev Darbar Models: Ella Gannon, Abi Burns, 14 Tobi Hassan, Tyler Mondesir, Toren Scott

Presha: An Interview with Connor Giltrap Text: Olivia Mitchell Photography: Akash Mattoo and Ed Gilbert Marsh

here is one thing that we think students at Surrey can do well – party. In the time I’ve been here, I’ve really seen Presha grow their monthly underground dance music events, where they showcase local talent and bring in headliner DJs for one-off events. If you haven’t been to Presha before, I’d recommend you try it out at least once whilst you’re here – Presha brings together a widely diverse range of music, with DJs that have the freedom to successfully bring these sounds to campus, which can lead to some incredible nights out. I was recently lucky enough to catch up with Connor Giltrap, one of the DJs and the current President of Presha.

So, Connor, why don’t you introduce yourself to SUBCULTURED? Hey, I’m Connor, aka ‘CG’, and I’m a DJ and a lover of weird and wonderful music! I’m currently in my 4th and final year at Surrey. I’ve also been involved with multiple club nights in Guildford, including a residency at Thirty3hz and a show on Kane FM, but I’m most proud of my work with Presha. How long have you been DJing? I’ve been DJing since I was about 14 – if you remember those year 10 house parties, I used to bring my own sound system and little midicontroller and spend the night playing music. I then started doing weddings and general events when I was 16, but I felt this wasn’t ideal for me as I had to play music that was requested for the event, rather than playing what I felt was right for the occasion. I personally feel DJs should never take requests, and should play what they feel works for the environment that they are playing in. What inspired you to become involved with Presha? Well, I started going to Presha events in my first year at Surrey, and it is so different to anything else the university has to offer in terms of musical direction. I loved the sense of community that the night brought to the attendees. Everyone that attends a Presha night has such a mutual respect for each other and valued the music that was playing (which is incredible!) After going for just over a year, I sent a mix to the former President, Ricky Cato. I’ll be honest with you – it wasn’t a great mix, and my musical taste was completely different to what it is now. Ricky, being the legend he is, still gave me a chance to get involved – which I really feel is a strong ethos behind Presha. We are a community that values different musical tastes. Ricky graduated that year, and I got involved with the next committee whilst on placement which was awesome! That year was arguably the biggest year of Presha to date, with the bookings of Jackmaster and Artwork to name a few! It really took Presha to the next level. Those guys really helped me understand how to run a successful club night, which I think I’ve brought into this year. 34

What do you love about Presha? Everything! But if I had to pick something, the variety of different types of music we bring to the nights is unique. Every type of dance music is represented here, from

Disco to House, Electro to Funk. The sense of community that our events bring is also special, everyone is welcome, and we pride ourselves in being a safe space for any individual.

What’s the best memory Presha has given you? The best memory I have was from Jackmaster’s set last March in Rubix. Having someone you look up to, playing for your night? That’s extremely special. As a side note, his journey as a DJ is incredible, and I highly recommend watching the Origins YouTube documentary on Jack – it just shows you how committed he was to making a success of himself, despite his troubled upbringing. During his set, he played Artworks ‘Let Go Of This Acid’, and the crowd went absolutely nuts! He even pulled it up and played it again. I was standing right behind him when he did. Scenes.

to the last minute. Be organised! What would you say to someone who might be interested in DJing, but doesn’t have much experience? I’d say keep practicing and never be afraid to talk to someone if you want to get involved. There are opportunities to practice at university, so keep an eye out for opportunities at Stag Radio, Kane FM and with us. You’ll never get the experience until you ask for it! Is this something you’d like to continue post-uni life? Yes! I’m currently looking into opportunities within the music industry, but also the

“Running Presha can be tough, but I’ve got a fantastic team of people around me who take the weight off my shoulders and ensure the nights run smoothly.” How do you balance this with student life, especially as you’re a final year student? This is a hard one, I’ll be honest with you. Every minute of final year is important, and balancing work and partying is key. My friends and I have a saying that it’s our ‘final year, final chance’ – you need to not miss out on any opportunities that you have this year. Yes, working on your degree is important, but you also need to have fun as you won’t have this year at university again. Running Presha can be tough, but I’ve got a fantastic team of people around me who take the weight off my shoulders, and ensure the nights run smoothly. Shout out to Taslo Value, Keynes and North for all your support this year! Couldn’t have done it without you all. So, I guess my advice is this: be tired, have fun and live your student life until you graduate – but don’t be silly and leave everything 36

entertainment industry. I believe my experience at university has put me in a good position to be able to work within these industries. As with DJing, I’m also looking for new opportunities to play sets so by all means, hit me up! Any plugs you’d like to make for any upcoming Presha events? We’ve got our last Rubix show of the year on Thursday 3rd May, with a few smaller shows in-between. This one at Rubix is going to be unreal – and I’m super excited with the headliners we’ve booked. Watch this space, more details to come soon! Interested in getting involved? Please contact them at: preshabass@gmail.com

Photography: Alim Syed Haque & Diana Shaplyko 38

Campus Street Style

Shyla Gautam - English Literature Instagram: shyla_28 Outfit: Top - Superdry, Jeans - Topshop, Coat - Zara 39

Betsy Kalaora - International Business Management Instagram: betsykalaora Outfit: Nike, Oasis, Primark, Moncler

Barney Alexander - Economics Instagram: barnabyalexander Outfit: Top - Hollister, Jacket - Topman, Jeans & Boots Burton 42

Rhoma - Accounting and Finance Instagram: rhomie Outfit: Coat -Warehouse, Dress - Zara, Boots - Asos, Bag Zalando

Yivon Cheah - Health and Medical Sciences Instagram: voncheah

Zheni Paskaleva - Accounting and Finance Instagram: jenipaskaleva Outfit: Coat & Jeans - Zara, Knitwear - Topshop

Meet So Young Sim The South Korean star discusses her rise in the modelling world, wanderlust and capturing her youth.

Text: Serim Park

o Young Sim, a model from South Korea based in Seoul, made her debut in 2016 and is now a shining star of the modelling industry. A clever, enthusiastic and playful 24-yearold, So Young has already put her name in various works ranging from GD & T.O.P’s (the famous South Korean boyband BigBang) music video Zutter to a Korean TV show and the S/S 2018 HiSeoul Fashion Show runway. As her Instagram proves, she always feels young. Having started university at the age of 17, she soon found university life boring, as she was in a women-only college without much to do and surrounded by older peers. So Young came back to South Korea for a study exchange, but her winter break lasted a while. As she describes: “I had to find something to do. Most people would go for an internship, but I was always interested in modelling as a career. So I visited the model academy, to give it a go without any regrets.” Although she did not have much hope, So Young was the only one to sign a contract with an agency amongst the other aspiring models. But as is the case with most jobs, it wasn’t exactly what she was dreaming of. “Before, I thought a career in modelling would enable me to show more of my own

‘colours,’ but now I’m realising it isn’t so easy to show 100% of myself to the public. So I started to really think about who I am and what I want to achieve in this career path. I would like to show more of who I really am as a person to the public”. So Young is a traveller; she has lived in Australia, she went to university in the US and is now currently working as a model in South Korea. She has experienced the diversity of human culture through her studies, travels and her new career. “My favourite place I’ve visited so far is Iceland” she says. “I planned the trip to see the Northern Lights mainly, but once I got there I saw many other natural spectacles, such as the Blue Lagoon. You can see every aspect of nature in Iceland. For instance, on one side of the mountain, there is sunlight and it is warm, but on the other side of the same mountain there is snow everywhere. Because they never really harmed or even touched nature in Iceland, it has all stayed as it was from the beginning. Since you have to drive a lot there, when you wake up in the car you see the whole world is white and when you wake up again it becomes all blue. It is always changing. I felt like I was on another planet.” 49

Not only does she travel for leisure, but she also goes around the world for her modelling work. So Young recently visited Paris for a TV show and is now getting ready for a fashion show on a cruise ship going around South Korea and Japan. “Actually, my first ever photoshoot overseas was in Bali for a commercial for a swimwear brand in 2016. I was very excited at first - as I love travelling, I was like wow! I’m going to Bali! But as I came to realise, when you go abroad for a shoot, the production costs get doubled. So such high production cost, the staff wants to get maximum results and therefore everyone had to work, work, work.” Given her vast experience in travelling, she shares some of her tips for what to do when on board and how to stay stylish when you are away from your closet. “To sleep, I mostly just work out the time difference and make sure I get enough hours on the plane. If not, I might take some cold medicine because I

find them better than heavier medication. To stay hydrated, I use facial mist and cream a lot as my face gets dry easily. I’ve seen some people wearing facial masks as well.” I use them sometimes, I tell her. So Young, laughing, responds: “I’ve never tried them myself because I’m scared of freaking the flight attendants out!” So Young said she would always bring her diary around wherever she goes, to make notes of each moment. “I’ve been writing in my diary almost every day since last year, so it’s been a year now.” I want to do the same, but I always fail to keep it up, I said. “Yes, this is the only time I’ve actually started writing one. It is a difficult habit to continue!” So Young would also bring her polaroid camera with her around the world. So Young is a bit of a daredevil, as she has chosen to put Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, the Giraffe Manor in Kenya and the Antarctic on her bucket list for travelling. “I like

experiencing something new. I’d rather go to unfamiliar places rather than somewhere more accessible. But as a model, I’d definitely want to go to New York one day. It would be a dream for any fashion model”. She uses Instagram or travel blogs as a guide when choosing destinations. “Models are like freelancers; we have flexible schedules. So I’d go travelling around holiday periods, like right after the Fashion Week. But I only get to know my schedule a month in advance, so it is not easy to plan ahead. For example, once I was seeing a friend and my agency just called that evening saying they needed a beauty model.” Despite all these inconveniences, So Young still enjoys working with different people in various areas. “I have worked in different areas. For modelling, all that matters is the look; whereas on TV shows or when acting, you need to be able to speak and communicate with others. For a photoshoot, I would normally work alone, but for TV shows or entertainment programmes, the whole chemistry among other broadcasters becomes very important.” Finally, she recommends some South Korean brands to our SUBCULTURED readers. “Before I started my career in modelling, I didn’t know much about brands from South Korea. But as I got closer to the designers, they would sometimes send gifts and when I like something I become even fonder of their brand.” So Young’s favourite brands include: Romanchic, Johnny Hates Jazz, Fleamadonna, Andersson Bell, Modern Alchemist, Vintage Hollywood, and MUNSOOKWON. Now being a professional fashion model for over 2 years, So Young is looking out for more adventures. She is constantly looking for a challenge, recently re-opening her YouTube channel, to show different sides of herself to fans. If you are interested and want to find out more about So Young Sim, follow her on Instagram (@feelssoyoung) and on her YouTube channel (FEELSSOYOUNG).

Students In Their Dorm Rooms Text: Alastair McGuinness We entered the dorm rooms of university students and found out how their bedrooms reflect their style, personality and life experiences...

Ralitsa, final year media and film student Top room decor tip: Go for mirrors, they make a room look larger and brighter

Ralitsa’s own description, “simple, with meaning”, best fits the look of her room: Soft colours and natural imagery are the staple of the decor here, with watercolours and oils on the walls. The only print is a classic grayscale photo from a 1971 edition of Vogue, the first in a series of Charlie perfume ads by Revlon.

We were welcomed with a Martenitsa, a small red-and-white bracelet for Baba Martaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day, meant to bring health and luck and welcome the coming spring. Given Ralitsaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity as a former member of the Bulgarian society and a folk dancer, it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t surprising that her room has strong ties to her native country, Bulgaria.

“Everyone has a poster”, was in part the logic for her quote board, framing snippets from Wilde and Fitzgerald in a background of natural scenery, specifically seascapes, which are Ralitsa’s favourite.

itsa by her mother over the last few years. Ralitsa elaborated on the reason; tradition is that back home, Bulgarians celebrate their name day, or rather the source of their name’s meaning. Ralitsa is named after the flower that is known in English as Larkspur; The most loved decoration in her room are hence the paintings. three miniature oil paintings, given to Ral56

For style, Ralitsa decided “Girl Boss” was the best fit. The outfits she showed us were classic black and white pieces, (“Why do I need to be a bride to wear a white dress?”) with the fearsome heels to match. The brightest colour in the room, red, was

reserved in accents - a red beret here and a pair of red boots there, but Ralitsa also owns a collection of distinctively bold red lipsticks, a splash of colour in a cosy room.

HANECDOTE EST. 2012

Text: Ellie Hamill

Real name: Hannah Hill Age: 23 From: N. London Occupation: Visual Artist specialising in hand embroidery Key Themes: mental health, feminism, gender, race, body positivity, sexuality Featured in: Fader, Vice, Gal-Dem, BBC R4 + R1 Xtra, Metro etc. Puts a modern twist on a classic art form, making it accessible to those previously excluded from art scene Grime lover, self-care + body positivity 58

f I said Hannah Hill, you might not bat an eyelid. Mention ‘Hanecdote’ however, and your lids might start moving faster than a bat outta’ hell. With her needle and thread ‘Hanecdote’, a 23-yearold visual artist from North London, stitches powerful stories into each handembroidered piece of art, spreading important emotional and political

messages spanning gender, mental health, and race. Following her feminist take on the internet sensation and much-loved Arthur meme, which sassily slams sexism in the art world, Hannah has been in high demand appearing in the likes of gal-dem Fader, Vice, and on BBC Radio 4 and 1Xtra. We had a lil’ chat with her to find out more about what makes her tick and the stories behind her original designs. 59

Hi Hannah, how you doing? Good and bad to be honest. Working my way through my first heartbreak but also got loads of exciting projects to try and focus my energy on instead of crying. When and why did you start experimenting with embroidery? I was 17 and studying for a BTEC in Art and Design; one of the modules was Textiles and that’s the first time I properly tried, but my mum has always sewn and knitted so it’s something which has always been around me. I almost instantly fell in love with the medium as a new way to make your mark.

What are the biggest challenges you face when starting/developing a new design? When designing new pieces I struggle to execute some of my ideas because I still lack confidence in my drawing skills, especially when drawing people or body parts! My biggest challenge in stitching is probably maintaining confidence in myself throughout the project, especially if it’s a big piece. I sometimes struggle to believe in myself to execute certain parts of a design if it’s complicated, but I always manage to prove to myself that I can do it.

What usually inspires your designs? First and foremost, my feelings. Mental health issues, body confidence, representation in art, grime and other UK music, everyday objects and day-today life, love, sexuality, identity. You’re very open about your own struggles with self-care and mental health on social media. Why do you think these issues are so important currently? I think it’s people’s responsibility to be open and honest on social media because soooo much of what is represented online is fake and unattainable and not people’s lived realities. I want to encourage people to be more empathetic towards themselves and others, so being honest about my daily struggles help others realise they’re not alone. I think people should be more transparent online. Do you think being a woman and of mixed ethnicity makes it harder to break into a creative industry? Thankfully my parents have always supported my creativity so in my own home I haven’t been stunted, I don’t pay too much attention to the wider

art world; I just make art from my heart and put it into the world. I need to push myself and get more involved in group shows and work with brands. Music seems to feature quite a bit on your Twitter and Insta, especially grime. Has this increasingly popular genre helped inspire your designs? The energy that I get from listening to grime music is indescribable. More often than not I’m listening to UK music, so it not only inspires me as I’m stitching, it has inspired the content of my work too. In 2015 I included an Air Max and microphone to represent grime’s place within the art world for a commission for Tate. In 2016 I made a piece inspired by growing up in London which paid my respect to a lot of MCs who I look up to as well as other iconic imagery. In my Art is For Everyone piece I wanted to include grime and how important representation is. To me this music represents youth culture, emotion, energy, DIY attitude, community and it’s really important for me to promote that through my visual art.

You’ve been featured in the Metro talking about how big brands steal designs from emerging artists and get off, seemingly, scot-free. How do you think this can be avoided and how do you feel about it? Big brands don’t care about independent artists and they don’t have to because they have huge budgets for their legal department. One thing I have appreciated is the support and outrage on social media any time a company has plagiarised me. People’s power can really work as far as kicking up a fuss and getting attention from the brand in question as well as interest from publications. Which of your designs means the most to you? My biggest piece to date, Art is For Everyone probably means the most to me because I put so much pressure on myself to really make some important statements in that piece. Sort of a manifesto for my future art career. You don’t shy away from taboo. What drives you to include things like periods and sexuality in your work? These subjects are usually taboo to oppress or shame people about things that are natural and normal parts of human existence. I deal with debilitating periods, and it’s not something I will ever be ashamed of, and to talk openly about symptoms teaches others to be more understanding. I love sex and expressing your sexuality as a woman has always been met with judgement and shame, I want to inspire women to express their naughtiness! What’s next then? What’s in store for 2k18? I’m working on a big new piece for an Embroidery Prize, working on a couple of exciting collaborations, and I will hopefully have my first solo show by the end of the year! Lots of personal and professional growth.

Hill is one talented cookie and judging by her successes since 2012, it looks like Hannah won’t be peaking for a good while yet. Represent Han! Follow Hannah on Instagram: @hanecdote

Photography/Creative Direction/Text: Rebecca Cofie Models: Janelle Joyce, Monetté Allison, AÏDA 64

Introducing the...

KIDS OF FALMOUTH

ust over a month ago, I embarked on a trip to the quaint town of Falmouth, Cornwall to visit my dear friend Monetté Allison at her university. I had heard about Falmouth University and its rise through the ranks as a top arts institution, so I was curious to discover more about the Falmouth lifestyle and meet Monetté’s creative friends. I was also excited to return to university for a few days and take a break from placement. Looking back, art school is an institution which I always feel I could’ve fit into due to my strong interest in the creative subjects. Maybe in some parallel universe, I went to Falmouth, UAL or some other arts university. Either way I would get an insight into it that weekend.

After a surprisingly relaxing 5 hour train journey with stunning views of the Cornish coast, I arrived. It was a sunny, almost-spring day and I was greeted with the breathtaking view of the blue sea, quite literally at the end of England. There were staggeringly steep hills due to the uneven cliff terrain, including the famous ‘Jacob’s Ladder’ staircase leading up a hill, which seemed like it was almost at a 90 degree angle. A wander around town landed us at the amazing tea room, ‘Full Bloom’, run by wonderful Falmouth graduate, Rose. Deep chats over chai latte and cake ensued.

JANELLE JOYCE, 22 , Creative Advertising

That night, I met my next Falmouth friend, Janelle Joyce, at an exclusive gig hosted by students, for students. She created the popular events night Hidden Jam (@hiddenjam_), for a coursework module to showcase talented Falmouth musicians. Although it originally started as a university project, the venture continued due to its success, as it gave Falmouth students a chance to socialise, showcase their talents and/or

support their friends. Although Janelle studies Creative Advertising, her journey with Hidden Jam has inspired her to pursue events management as a potential career option. With a bottle of Rattlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cornish cider in our hands, we watched the talented acts perform, including cool Glaswegian DJ Angel Baby (@angelbabyvevo).

Janelle describes her favourite aspect of Falmouth. “Living in a place like Falmouth reminds you that the pace you live your life is a choice”, she states. “You don’t have to rush to get from one point to the next, from one goal to the other. It’s ok to

live slow and to stop and smell the roses.” Coming from a cosmopolitan city like London, her quote perfectly echoed my thoughts so far on this university town.

Janelle, MonettĂŠ

MONETTÃ&#x2030; ALLISON, 21, Popular Music

The following day, Monetté and I continued to explore the town of Falmouth, including a visit to Gyllyngvase Beach. Whilst we were there, I decided to take some of Monetté’s pictures, braving the cold wind to capture her against the Falmouth coast, before taking refuge in the beach bar. Monetté Allison, my original Falmouth friend, is a musician and neo-soul/folk singer-songwriter. Describing herself as a romantic at heart, her

songs explore love. They also inspire her listeners through her emotive lyrics. We originally met on social networking app, Bumble, and can safely call ourselves ‘Bumble BFFs’. Born and bred West Londoners, we immediately clicked and found common ground with our interest in the arts.

After a night of partying to celebrate St Patrick’s Day, including a pub crawl and 3 house parties (yes, all in one night!), we decided to have a slow Sunday. That wild night, I witnessed how the Falmouth students create their own entertainment in this small university town, through vibrant gatherings, DJ’ed by music students. Sunday began with a super delicious breakfast at independent cafe ‘The Ope’ (@ the_ope_), before it started to snow. Fresh white flakes covered the tropical palm trees in their garden, forming a perfect backdrop for the shoot. 76

With Princess Nokia’s ‘Soul Train’ playing in the background and its iconic lyric ‘Freak freak y’all, yes yes y’all, to the beat y’all!’ echoing in my ears, I photographed my final Falmouth friend, Aïda. Hailing from an Afro-European background and able to speak four languages, she has lived in Washington D.C, Berlin and now Falmouth. Also a Popular Music student, she lives with Monetté. The two have been close since 2nd year. A dedicated vegan and a natural in front of the camera, her room is adorned with silver tinsel with a rack for her favourite fashion items, displaying her unique sense of style.

AĂ?DA, 21, Popular Music 77

My last day in Falmouth consisted of unexpectedly shooting street style at Falmouth University campus to get a further insight into the Kids of Falmouth (stay tuned on our social media) ahead of the journey back into London Paddington. I left Falmouth feeling completely refreshed and relaxed, ready to take on another week of work. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a

prospective student or even in need of a holiday, based on this weekend, I would highly recommend Falmouth. Follow the Kids of Falmouth on Instagram: @janellejoyce_, @monetteallison, @ aiiiidaxo

The Hidden Gems Of Guildford Text and Photography: Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham If you are looking to spice up your student days in Guildford, we have quite a few ideas for youâ&#x20AC;¦

Shere Village With its quintessential Englishness, the charming little village of Shere is THE destination for a one-day get-away from your busy university life.

Shere is only a 20-minute-bus-ride from Guildford town centre (Compass Travel – buses number 25, 32, 125 buses or Buses Excetera – bus number 32). The village is full of cute cottages, cafés, shops, quaint streets, a stream with ducks, the 12th-century St James Church as well as two pubs, the White House and The William Bray. 82

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fun fact: Did you know that Shere has been a popular shooting location for Hollywood films (mostly romcoms or dramas)? The Bridget Jones film series and The Holiday (2006) feature shots filmed in this beautiful village. With a stunning and quaint scenery, Shere is truly Guildfordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best kept secret. Go there before all of our other SUBCULTURED readers do! 83

Guildford Castle Grounds Castle Grounds is not really a “hidden” hotspot as it is one of the most popular destinations in Guildford. But this list will not be complete without it, especially in spring. Yes, this means flowers will be beautifully blooming everywhere in the grounds and there comes your chance to take the most colourful and Instagrammable photos ever. So what are you waiting for? Go to Guildford Castle after you’ve finished reading this issue and prove us right!

Riverside Walk Are we right in thinking the walk along River Wey is a bit underrated? Do give this spot a try if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t already done so. The best place to start this walk is at the front of The White House pub at the end of High Street. The calm and peaceful scenery will help you de-stress during exam season. It is also perfect if you need a place to think, or have too much on your plate and just want to take a break from life.

Westnye Gardens Don’t miss out on the little Westnye Gardens as you’re walking along River Wey. It’s a pretty garden that is literally the same size as your backyard, which makes it look like a little playground you can have all to yourself. Westnye Gardens is open to the public all year round and a great alternative if the Castle Grounds are too busy on sunny days.

The University of Surrey Campus If you only visit campus to go to the lectures or to camp in the library, you.are.missing.out. Our beautiful campus provides ideal spaces for relaxation, hang-outs with friends, or pictures, all year around, in whatever weather. The Surrey campus is definitely one of Guildfordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best hidden gems that we students may have overlooked.

The Mount This steep hill in Guildford may be a popular spot, but at the same time it is still a hidden gem. This is because you can easily see the big and high hill from the Guildford town centre, but not many people know how to get up there! The Mount offers spectacular viewpoints to the whole Guildford town, including the Guildford Cathedral, town centre, Surrey campus, Manor Park student village, and small streets with cute houses. It is also a great location for picnic trips, de-stressing walks, quality time with your friends and loved onesâ&#x20AC;Ś How to climb the Mount: Now this is the bit where we may have to charge you if you want the information! At the end of Guildford Park Road, where it cuts Farnham Road and there is a roundabout, you will see a narrow and steep footpath. Follow that path and head straight towards Wodeland Avenue, then take the first right turn to a road also called The Mount. Keep on walking until the very last house on this road. 90

You will see a fingerpost sign that directs you to a nearby small path that leads to the hill, located right behind the sign. The hill itself is picture-perfect. From certain points, it feels like the ‘grass carpet’ in front of you just doesn’t have an ending point. … and many more hidden gems in Guildford waiting to be found by YOU! Guildford is a romantic and charming town, there are so many hidden hotspots that you will be able to explore if you’re a wanderlust like us. An idea to make your adventure in Guildford even more fascinating is to get on a bus from town: 26 to Stoughton, which Hazel Farm residents may have been underestimating (since you’re so caught up in how it’s “too far from campus”); or 36 to Burpham, 37 to Merrow, the two poshest areas in Guildford, and see for yourself the many things Guildford has to offer! Photos by Juliey Pham (@julieythe1st).

The Truth About Placement Year Text: Holly Butteriss

ne of Surrey’s biggest selling points is the placement year. It’s one of the reasons I chose Surrey; I knew I wanted to take the opportunity to spend a year working full-time in a role linked to the kind of career I’d like to have in the future.

Of course, actually finding a placement that I’m interested in and that is paid, conveniently located and willing to at least interview me, was much easier said than done. But for any of you that are considering going on placement, or are currently looking for one, I’m happy to say I’m now over half way through my placement, so there’s definitely light at the end of the tunnel. Having done the job search process in the past, I never imagined just how difficult it was going to be to not only find something I was interested in, but

also to actually, y’know, get the job. In the process of applying for placement roles I received outright rejections, interview offers and sometimes nothing at all. I won’t lie and say that the rejections aren’t hard to swallow, because they are, but you soon move on to the next job, the next application or the next interview. It’s a long, often tedious process. But believe me when I say that getting that job offer at the end of it is so worth the hours you’ve spent writing cover letters.

The university are pretty good at supporting you throughout, but really it was my friends who I relied on the most. We were all in it together, checking CVs and hyping each other before interviews and consoling each other after another rejection. Of course, one by one my friends accepted job offers and meanwhile I was still scrambling to find any job at that point. It’s disheartening, stressful and it makes you question whether it’s worth it. But without the support of my friends, I probably wouldn’t have found the

placement I have now. And of course, now that I’m actually on placement, I realise how valuable those experiences were. The different styles of interview, being turned down for roles I really wanted and researching the different types of jobs I was interested in. Those experiences have helped prepare me (I hope) for grad job hunting, boosted my confidence in interviews and given me a good idea of the sort of career I’m looking for.

I’ve been working in social media and marketing for over 6 months now, and the skills I have managed to acquire are invaluable. Working events, learning how to use Adobe Premiere Pro and Photoshop and developing my photography skills are all things that will boost my CV. Placement gives you a real taste of what life is going to be like when you leave Surrey. For me, I’ve moved and now rent a flat, pay my bills and commute to work, like a real adult. Of course, none of that was easy to achieve either. Turns out finding a flat you can afford, isn’t grim and/or miles away from work isn’t that easy!

getting drunk three times a week and spending the whole day in bed because you’ve got no place else to be. Adulting is hard work.

And as much as I love my placement, the reality is that it’s basically a whole year of having a mandatory 9am lecture. In the winter you’re often going to work and then coming home in the dark. Getting the commuter train can be painful and sometimes you spend hours at your desk wondering why you ever thought placement was a good idea because you’re definitely not cut out for this real-life stuff. You miss being a student, skipping lectures,

Ultimately, placement is one of the best things I’ve done since coming to Surrey, but while I’ll be sad to leave the office come July, it really has been too long since I’ve been to Rubix (I’m sure I’ll be regretting these words once dissertation stress sets in). So, for anyone considering doing the placement year, do it. And for those of you still looking for one, persevere! The right one will come along eventually and it’ll be worth the wait.

But that doesn’t mean you lose touch with uni life! While I can’t exactly hit up Rubix every Wednesday for Citrus, I’ve still made the trip back to Guildford to visit friends and make it to Popworld a time or two at the weekends. And I have been known to ‘work from home’ every now and then so I can have lie in. I still eat pasta out of the saucepan and I’m still using my student discount as often as I can

New trends are here and, as always, we have done our homework, translating catwalk fashion into more wearable outfit inspiration. So get ready for the (hopefully) sunnier months with some of the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular picks.

The Spring/Summer 2018 Edit

Models: G.K, Donna Darafshian, Juliey (Mai Anh) Pham, Simon Ebenezer, Nathaniel Jr. Berthier Makeup: Holly Gibbons Photography and Post-Production: Anna Irina Creative Direction: Rebecca Cofie and Setareh Sanjarani Creative Assistant: Natalie Carter Text: Alice (Vasiliki) Papadopoulou 97

Denim: Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic high-waisted jeans, dungarees, pinafore dresses or denim-ondenim, nothing is off-limits for denim fans.

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Slips: Slip dresses are a big favourite; layered or on their own, they give off a cool, carefree vibe and just enough skin exposure to attract some looks.

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Pastel hues: Bright colours are the usual spring/summer update, but pastel hues are actually preferable this spring. If you are a fan of a darker colour palette, investing in some pastel items can be your induction to a more summery look.

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Layering: This one is not hard. The catwalk takes it one step too far for everyday wear, but it is absolutely necessary for a British summer. Experiment with layering different textures or going for a beige fluffy coat over your pinafore.

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Pink: This season officially claims pink as the colour for both womenswear and menswear. So go bold with a pink bomber casually thrown over the standard summer tee and embrace the new status of pink as unisex and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;a mustâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

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