Bold New Beginnings by Susan Campbell Gone are the days when the typical first-course offerings would consist of shrimp cocktail, French onion soup, and escargots. Today’s savvy chefs are blazing new trails with amazing appetizers, and showcasing their culinary flair and prowess in the kitchen.
Classification confusion
The tradition of offering small delicacies designed to whet the appetite and prepare the palate for further culinary exploration dates back to Ancient Rome. Though many other cultures also share the tradition, it is really the French that made the practice a part of everyday dining by establishing a set order of courses. Over the years, however, there has been collective confusion as to what officially constitutes an “appetizer”, especially in North America where the term entrée became associated with a main course rather than a first course as originally established by the French. Then appetizers became entangled with the term hors d’oeuvres since these little bits and bites were typically offered before a meal. Hors d’oeuvres, however, were not designed to whet 8
the appetite as appetizers do; rather these foods served at French banquets were meant to encourage digestion between courses and were served at any time during the dining. Literally translated, hors d’oeuvre means “outside of the work”, but over time they became better known as snacks that go with cocktails, much like Spanish-style tapas. As if to confuse things further, nouvelle cuisine then introduced amuse-bouches (meaning “to please the mouth”), and folks wondered if these little bites should be classified as appetizers. They should not. The purpose of an amuse-bouche is to show off the chef ’s culinary creativity in a small, bite-sized dish. It is usually offered as a complimentary extra whenever the chef feels like it, and you generally cannot order an amuse-bouche off the menu. E Photos by Veer
9
With so much blurring of lines regarding what does and does not constitute an appetizer, many dining establishments these days are getting smart and simply labeling absolutely anything that might be consumed before the main meal as a “starter”. Shareables are trending
The way we dine is evolving these days. At one time, sampling something off another’s plate or asking for two plates for the same appetizer might have been considered déclassé, and ordering only an assortment of starters as a main meal might have been perceived as miserly. But today, table-wide sharing is not only socially acceptable but actually celebrated. Chefs like it when their guests are culinary adventurers and the best way to do that in today’s economy is to share appetizers (or “apps” and “appies”, as they are sometimes called). Diners are also demanding that shared apps remain on the table throughout the meal, not be whisked away to make room for the main course; many folks like to create their own grazing buffet, especially when dining in large groups. And let’s not forget about dippables! Spreads, tapenades, salsas, and chutneys are also really popular for table sharing. It’s this new demand for interesting shareables that has many establishments going above and beyond with creative offerings in the appetizer arena.
10
A fusion revolution
Borrowing inspiration from other cultures and boldly combining two distinct ethnic cuisines are resulting in starters like sushi pizza, tuna tataki nachos, and quinoa tabbouleh. Or how about Italian calamari fritters with creamy Asian lemon ponzu dipping sauce? On Aruba, where the local cuisine is by definition a fusion cuisine, you’ll find Gouda cheese balls served with a creole dipping sauce. And fusion is not limited to mixing cultures, but also flavors. Sweet and savory combos like Asiago-stuffed dates with bacon and smoked paprika, glazed E
Top photo by Charles Knox. Bottom photo by Mateusz Gzik
smoked duck with candied kumquats, or grilled scallop and watermelon kabobs are taking the top of the menu by storm. Spicy is also prevalent in newly minted starters like jalapenos stuffed with smoked trout, bacon, and avocado. Seafood starters are evolving, too. You’ll see dishes like seared crab cakes served on mesclun greens with pineapple mango salsa, or vanilla-skewered scallops and crab cocktail with caviar and lemon verbena vinaigrette. Ceviche is also a savvy chef ’s favorite offering, especially in tropical climes like Aruba’s where fresh fish and seafood are always at the ready. And almost anything goes when it comes to adding herbs and spices to make ceviche an establishment’s signature recipe. Out of the box
Chefs are experimenting with salads, sprucing them up with added protein surprises like foie gras terrine and baby beet and passion fruit salad; smoked beef rib eye and grilled vegetables with blue cheese sauce over mixed greens; or grilled Russian kale with lamb sausage, toasted hazelnuts, and yogurt dressing. Soups are getting a makeover, too. How about the delicious
Aruban cream of banana soup with cilantro and nutmeg; lobster cappuccino bisque; or apple pie soup with toasted walnuts and sour cream? Chilled soups served in martini and shooter glasses, big ceramic spoons, or in a demitasse allow for a fun change of pace. E
Lobster bisque from Texas de Brazil
12
Top photo by Veer. Bottom photo courtesy of Texas de Brazil
Cheese is another appetizer favorite that has come a long way from deep-fried mozzarella sticks. You’ll see amazing creations like baked brie in puff pastry with onion marmalade, or goat cheese and red bell pepper in puff pastry with honey and sugared black olives. The opportunity to sample from a big plate of rare and expensive assorted cheeses is an adventure and entices diners to order more from the top of the menu. And options for vegetarians are also cropping up everywhere. Those who choose to eat meatless will never go hungry with starters like roasted pumpkin and smoked tofu risotto, carpaccio of artichoke with melted goat cheese and honey sauce, stuffed shiitake mushrooms with pecorino cheese, dates cooked in wine and honey and stuffed with chopped pine nuts, or pan-fried eggplant with saffron mayonnaise… Getting hungry?
14
Thankfully, Aruban diners are spoiled with a high number of restaurants per capita. This means that innovation from the top of the menu right on down is a given at the island’s best tables. And with so many fine-dining establishments to choose from, you can be sure that whatever flavors please your palate, there’s an app for that! K
Top photo by Charlotte Lake. Left photo by Val Thoermer. Right photo by Flavio Aquino