COR - The Local Magazine #3 (EN) by Südtirol / Alto Adige

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L O C A L

M A G A Z I N E

LOOK

LISTEN

ENJOY

Architectural gems

Classical music meets the bagpipes

Winter in all its glory

Wo es schmeckt!

Linger a While Longer

Ein Heft über den Genuss und die Berge

An issue dedicated to hiking and happiness

B R I X E N

K L A U S E N

G I T S C H B E R G

J O C H T A L

N A T Z - S C H A B S

L Ü S E N

South Tyrol seeks

nature lovers.

South Tyrol seeks you.

suedtirol.info/storiesfromsouthtyrol

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Contributors 1 A few days before the editorial deadline, our colleague Debora Nischler suffered from a serious muscle ache after a long hike. Then she recalled our interview with Christine Lageder. She followed the herbal educator’s advice (p. 14) and took a relaxing bath – the next day, she felt completely better. 2 When our editor-inchief Lenz Koppelstätter embarked on the hike featured in our cover story, he spent most of his time walking alone. However, when a cow suddenly broke free of its herd and started galloping towards him, he recalled our tips for dealing with grazing animals (p. 15), and after initially furiously waving his hands at it, stood completely still. The cow came to a stop right in front of him, gave a deafening moo and turned around. Phew!

3 Patrick Schwienbacher takes photographs for a living. And in his spare time, he loves nothing more than to ride his snowboard. For this issue, he got to do both when he went out to take photos of Tiziano Stimpfl, who spends his days working on the slopes. “We got on brilliantly,” says Schwienbacher, which is hardly surprising.

Cor. Il cuore. Das Herz. The heart. The mountain air makes it beat faster and beautiful artworks set it aflutter. And when the two come together, it’s enough to make it leap with joy. This is what we call pure happiness! Dive into this issue to discover snow-covered slopes, exhilarating hikes and architectural gems. We take you on a journey through deep valleys and steep hillsides, and reveal exactly what makes Brixen/Bressanone, Gitschberg Jochtal/ Rio Pusteria, Klausen/Chiusa, Natz-Schabs/ Naz-Sciaves and Lüsen/Luson stand out: their perfect blend of stunning nature and superb culture. Happy reading! The Editorial Team

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What a Blaze of Colour! Beautiful blues, greens and whites

New & Approved News from the region

Q&A with... Harald Gasser, who grows 800 varieties of vegetables

Up and Away The powerful effect of a solitary hike

Something for Everyone Five very different hikes

Winter in All Its Glory Ten tips for the winter months

The Magic Number 7 A piece of history

Musician Meets Composer An interview with musical genius Hans Jocher and the keenly experimental Manuela Kerer

Beautiful Things Products from the region

What Does This Man Do for a Living? Out and about with ski guide Tiziano Stimpfl

A Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol Part 3: For the love of food

A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean Understand what the locals say

A Valley Steeped in History A journey through time

My Favourite... Mountain Lake Insider tips from the locals

The Perfect Snapshot Three photography tips

Credits PUBLISHERS Brixen Tourismus Genossenschaft Tourismusverein Gitschberg Jochtal Tourismusgenossenschaft Klausen, Barbian, Feldthurns und Villanders Tourismusgenossenschaft Natz-Schabs Tourismusverein Lüsen IDM Südtirol – Alto Adige CONTACT info@cormagazine.com

EDITORIAL TEAM Exlibris www.exlibris.bz.it PUBLISHING MANAGERS Valeria Dejaco (Exlibris), Karin Niederfriniger (IDM) EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Lenz Koppelstätter ART DIRECTOR Philipp Putzer www.farbfabrik.it AUTHORS Valeria Dejaco, Kristina Erhard, Cassandra Han, Lenz Koppelstätter, Ariane Löbert, Debora Nischler, Silvia Oberrauch

Architecture! Time-honoured and modern – a selection of impressive buildings V is for Variety Tips from sommelière Alexandra Erlacher

PHOTOS Acquarena, AH Bräu, Alamy, Autostrada del Brennero SpA, Damiano Benedetto, Alessandra Chemollo, Valeria Dejaco, Alex Dvihally, Edition Raetia, Eisacktal Wein/Hannes Niederkofler, Alex Filz, Galerie 90, Stefan Gamper, Matthias Gasser, Erika GrothSchmachtenberger archives, IDM Südtirol - Alto Adige, IDM/Florian Andergassen, IDM/Frieder Blickle, IDM/Dietmar Denger, IDM/Alex Filz, IDM/Alexandra Korey, IDM/Manuel Kottersteger, IDM/Laurin Moser, IDM/Benjamin Pfitscher, IDM/Helmuth Rier, IDM/Harald Wisthaler, IDM/Clemens Zahn, Oliver Jaist, Manuel Kottersteger, Klaus Kranebitter, Christine Lageder, Konrad Lamprecht, Annelies Leitner, Matthias Michl, Hannes Niederkofler, Michael Pezzei, Günther Pichler, Paolo Riolzi, private, Pur Südtirol/Marion Lafogler, Rene Riller, Arnold Ritter, roterrucksack.com, Schloss Velthurns Castle, Patrick Schwienbacher, Shutterstock, Anita Stizzoli, Andreas Tauber, Torggler/Domenikus Gruber, Touriseum, TV Gitschberg Jochtal, TV Klausen, TV Ritten/Sophie Pichler, TV Terenten, unsplash/Brooke Lark, Waldharthof/Ingrid Heiss, Gustav Willeit ILLUSTRATIONS Elke Ehninger (4, 64), Evi Gasser (12)

TRANSLATIONS AND PROOFREADING Exlibris (Valeria Dejaco, Charlotte Marston, The Word Artists) PRINTED BY Tezzele by Esperia, Lavis

Kindly supported by:

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What a Blaze of Colour! From a town lit up in blue to a green sea of vineyards and a white winter idyll, the intense beauty of such scenes casts a spell on the beholder time and time again

Every May, the Water Light Festival bathes Brixen/Bressanone, Klausen/Chiusa, Neustift/Novacella and Franzensfeste/Fortezza in vibrant lights. Visitors can look forward to contemporary light art exhibitions and an exclusive programme of cultural events which shine the spotlight on water from every angle.

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Green represents air, life and nature. On the steep slopes of the Eisacktal valley, vine roots wind their way through the mineral soil. Warm, sunny days and cool nights favour the growth of the grapes on vineyards between 400 and 850 metres above sea level.

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In winter, fruit and wine growing is suspended and the land becomes a paradise for snow hikes. Near Natz-Schabs/ Naz-Sciaves, the view extends from the Ă&#x2013;lberg viewpoint across the apple orchards planted on the plateau and all the way to Brixenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s valley basin.

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NEW & APPROVED News from the region

P is for... Pure SELLING 2,200 HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCTS from 240 regional farms and manufacturers, the Pur Südtirol gourmet food shop has recently celebrated the opening of its fifth branch in Brixen/Bressanone. A new addition is the loose produce section, where customers can fill up on products like nuts and coffee beans as well as grains and cereals from local mills without any plastic or waste. Shoppers can take a break on the sun terrace or relax and admire the elegant architecture in the bistro, where they can sample premium wines from the shop’s selection or enjoy snacks and salads made from organic, seasonal ingredients. There are also daily specials, such as spelt fusilli or spare ribs. The gourmet products can also be purchased online: www.pursuedtirol.com

Curious Creatures LEGEND HAS IT that a creature known as a Hottile once wreaked havoc on the Kreuzwiese meadow near Lüsen/Luson. Every evening, it would whistle, yodel and clatter around, terrifying the locals. The

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villagers said, “The Hottile will only stop terrorising us when it sees something it has never seen before.” So they cobbled together a plan... Over the years, countless wondrous stories have grown up around the Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture. These myths and legends can now be read about on a themed hike across the plateau. Starting at the Herol car park, the route passes along the Lüsner Alm Panoramaweg panoramic trail and features display boards with drawings depicting the fables as well as information about life on the pasture and cheese

production. Crossing meadows and woodland, the gently undulating hike runs past an upland moor and is suitable for the whole family. But how does the Hottile story end? The villagers gathered together piles of pitchforks, logs, spoons and shoes and arranged them into crosses on the meadow. When the creature appeared at midnight, it threw up its hands in horror at this sight and disappeared, never to be seen again. And this is how the Kreuzwiese, which literally translates as “cross meadow,” got its name.

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? A LLAMA CAN SPIT as far as five metres. But don’t worry, they only spit during disputes with other llamas in their herd. Otherwise, they are just as suitable for trekking as their smaller relatives, alpacas. The Tauber family at the Waldharthof farm in Raas/Rasa offers hourlong llama treks through woodland, marshland and the nearby biotope every Thursday, led by the farmer’s son, Andreas. The farm also owns alpacas, and children in particular benefit from taking these therapeutic animals on walks in the great outdoors. After the trek, visitors can enjoy an afternoon snack back at the farm, with the chance to try homemade jams, speck bacon and flower syrup. Participation is free for Almencard holders. For more information and enquiries, please visit: www.waldharthof.it

Look Out for the Eagle THE RITTNER HORN/CORNO DEL RENON is home to a new family park – where visitors are welcomed by an eagle wearing a red, medieval hat. The park is located directly alongside the mountain station of the Rittner Horn cable car. On the circular trail featuring 11 stops, children can explore a maze of mountain pine trees, play skittles, hop over tree trunks, swing on witches’ broomsticks and whoosh down a tube slide. At each stop, the family park’s mascot – Toni the Eagle – looks on in his distinctive red hat. There is, of course, a story behind his attire: one of his ancestors was said to have saved the life of famous troubadour

Walther von der Vogelweide when he fell into a rocky crevice and broke his leg. To express his gratitude, the singer gave him the hat and it has been passed down the generations of the eagle family ever since. Visitors can read this and other stories and legends as they walk along the trail. And after all that family fun, the Unterhornhaus, Feltuner Hütte and Rittner-HornHaus lodges are fantastic places to stop for a break to refuel.

Did You Know That... There Are Accessible Hiking Trails in South Tyrol? he online portal “Südtirol für alle” or “Alto Adige per tutti” is helping to make South Tyrol/Südtirol a more accessible destination for visitors in wheelchairs, families with pushchairs and the elderly. The website gives each hike a difficulty rating from one to five. The route from Zumis to the Rodenecker Alm Alpine pasture, for example, is rated as 2, meaning it is suitable for people in electric wheelchairs. Information is also provided on possible barriers, such as gates, the path surface and the incline. The EU-funded project also recommends accommodation, inns, bars, restaurants and leisure activities which are accessible to wheelchair users and offers guidance on public transport. To find out more, please visit:

www.suedtirolfueralle.it

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The Luge Runners Expert

Peter Torggler from Klausen/Chiusa has been building luges for 35 years and has even worked for South Tyrolean elite athletes such as three-time world champion Evelin Lanthaler.

“I WAS A KEEN AND SUCCESSFUL LUGER myself back in my younger days. Until the 1980s, we bought our luges in Austria, but I soon started to make my own improvements and modifications to them. I turned this hobby into my career in 1986 and founded my own company. Today, we produce around 2,000 luges a year. A good luge requires top-quality materials, such as parts made from ash wood for the runners and bars, as well as precise workmanship and adjustments so that it moves in a straight line. And you need to know how to get them reaching top speeds. That, of course, is something I keep secret... I still enjoy luging in my spare time – and own three of my own luges – and I also help to test our racing luges and wheeled luges. Nothing makes me prouder than seeing an athlete win a world championship or a World Cup race on one of my creations.” www.torggler-rodelbau.com

The Healing Power of Nature Four tips from herbal educator Christine Lageder from Barbian/Barbiano REDUCE INFLAMMATION WITH LIME BLOSSOM TEA Recipe: Mix together 20 grams of lime blossom, 20 grams of lemon balm, 20 grams of fennel, 15 grams of elderflower, 10 grams of lemon thyme, 10 grams of rosehip and 5 grams of mullein blossom. Steep in boiling water.

Christine Lageder uses thyme to make an oil for rubbing onto the chest to help relieve coughs.

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USE SALT TO BOOST THE IMMUNE SYSTEM Recipe: Mix together 1 kilogram of salt, 20 grams of salad burnet, 15 grams of winter savory, 15 grams of sage and 10 grams of each of the following: thyme, ribwort, yarrow, rosehip peel and mallow blossom. Use like table salt.

TAKE A RELAXING BATH Recipe: Mix together 100 grams of salt, 15 grams of thyme, 15 grams of sage and 10 grams of marjoram, and add to your bath water. RELIEVE COUGHS Recipe: Fill a third of a bottle with dried thyme and top up with olive or sunflower oil. Leave to soak in a warm place out of direct sunlight for three weeks, shaking daily. Then strain. Rub onto the chest to soothe a cough. www.oberpalwitterhof.com

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Mountain Etiquette Five tips on how to deal with grazing animals on Alpine pastures

Stay on the path: Do not leave the hiking trail. Walk around any animals blocking your path, giving them a wide berth.

Keep your distance: Give the animals space and do not make contact with them, stroke them or feed them.

Keep calm: Cows have a limited field of vision and are very easily scared. Do not sneak up on them and always behave quietly and calmly around them.

Do not stand between animals: A mother’s natural instinct is to protect her child – with this in mind, do not approach young animals or stand between a baby and its mother.

South Tyrol – a Pasture Paradise Pastureland spread over 1,739 pastures accounts for around 34 percent of South Tyrol/Südtirol. The majority of these pastures are high-mountain pastures located above the tree line. Around 73,700 animals spend the summer grazing on South Tyrol’s pastureland. They keep the pastures free from trees and undergrowth, helping to preserve the region’s unique cultural landscape.

Keep dogs on leads: Grazing animals often feel threatened by dogs. Please keep your four-legged friends on their leads.

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Q&A with... Harald Gasser, who grows 800 varieties of vegetables at Aspingerhof farm in Barbian/ Barbiano

How did you come to grow vegetables? I used to be a social worker but there came a point when I was on the verge of burning out. To help me relax, I began experimenting in the small garden on my parents’ farm, eventually turning my hobby into my job. I started out growing 200 varieties of vegetables, including some I chose just because of their name – lucky clover, for example. I had no experience, made mistakes and soon came to the realisation that I didn’t want to plant vegetables in monoculture plots anymore. So I switched to mixed cultures and familiarised myself with the principle of permaculture. I love the variety – it keeps me from ever getting bored. I’m quite different to the average person, who only eats around 30 different types of vegetable.

Good vegetables may cost more but at the end of the day, it all comes down to setting priorities. What’s more important – the latest iPhone or an excellent kintoki carrot? You grow a lot of exotic and forgotten varieties, such as the skirret, a sweet root vegetable popular in the Eisacktal valley back in the 15th century. What is your favourite vegetable? My favourite is always the latest variety added to my garden. You have to dedicate a lot of time and patience to growing something new. At the moment, I’m focusing on the achira, a type of bamboo, and the taro, a potato-like tuber. And this year, I’ve also finally succeeded in growing camas bulbs. That gave me a fantastic sense of achievement! www.aspinger.com

Who buys your vegetables? Although I specialise in selling to restaurants, everyone is welcome to buy from me.

What is permaculture?

Harald Gasser also grows taro, a potato-like tuber from South-East Asia.

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Permaculture is based on the important principles of caring for the earth, caring for people, limiting consumption and growth, and sharing what you don’t need. These principles can be applied to all areas of human activity. In the field of agriculture, they centre on sustainability and creating a stable, living ecosystem which considers the needs of all beings.

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B y — L E N Z K O P P E L S T Ä T T E R P h o t o g r a p h y — D I E T M A R D E N G E R

Running past the spectacular peaks of the Dolomites, the Dolorama Track extends from the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the village of Lajen/Laion. A chance to discover where a four-day hike high above civilisation can take you

and

Away

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“There is one thought for the field, another for the house. I would have my thoughts, like wild apples, to be food for walkers.”

ritten by 19th-century pencil maker turned author and philosopher of nature Henry David Thoreau, these are the words on my mind as I begin my ascent. The pale blue, early morning sky fades into a milky white hue on the horizon, the first soft rays of sunshine illuminating the rock on the distant summits of the Dolomites, but not yet strong enough to dry the dew on the lush meadows. Groups of cows huddle together, gently chewing cud and seemingly unimpressed by the beauty surrounding them. The distinctive calls of the Alpine choughs can be heard above the jingling cowbells. It doesn’t get any more idyllic than this.

I’m on the Dolorama long-distance hiking trail in the heart of South Tyrol/Südtirol. Running past the spectacular peaks of the Dolomites, it extends from the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to the village of Lajen. Hiking along its entire 61 kilometres takes four days and leads you high above civilisation. What effect does that have on people and what effect will it have on me? What makes a journey like this so alluring? What am I doing here? All around me, everything is calm. Without the hubbub of everyday life, all I can hear are the sounds of nature. It’s as if I’m listening to what’s going on inside myself. The sounds I make as I breathe in and out, perspiring, the crunching of stones under the soles of my hiking boots. As I set off, the chaos of everyday life still had me firmly in its grip, my mind working in overdrive. Filled with thoughts of yesterday’s deadlines and those looming over me for next week, of the last tiresome meeting at work, my hefty electricity bill and the unsettling newspaper headlines. But with every step I take, the sheer effort of climbing uphill causes these thoughts to gradually fade away. And after two or three hours, I find myself completely immersed in the beauty of nature, having left everyday life far behind. It’s like a switch has been flipped. Just like that, and all my worries are gone. Equally as sudden is the unforeseen wave of happiness washing over me, which hits me full on. From my legs, which only a moment ago felt so heavy, to my calves, just a second ago still aching – all at once everything

The view across the valleys extends all the way to the Dolomites.

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Four days. 61 kilometres. What effect does that have on people? What makes a journey like this so alluring?

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The route is well signposted and dotted with mountain lodges and benches for when you need a rest.

feels so light. It’s as if I could fly away, take off from the gravel path and float up among the trees. My senses are so alive that I can taste, smell and hear the meadows and dusty stones under my feet so intensely that I’m almost at one with them. After finishing my ascent, I continue across the ridge almost in a trance. So this is what long-distance hikers rave about, I realise in some sort of epiphany. My mind focuses solely on the bigger picture, on the beauty all around me. Everything becomes clear, everything will be okay, everything is okay. Mountain lodges keep popping up among the lush green grass, like small, dark splashes of paint in a watercolour landscape. I decide to take a break at one and stop for a moment to chit-chat with the landlady. But up here, people don’t talk all that much. There’s no need to among such beauty. A glance, a nod, a quick murmur of agreement or a smile often suffices. I continue on my way, soon leaving the blooming pastures behind me. The rugged rocks of the Dolomites are now towering above me, seemingly close enough to touch. Known since time immemorial as the “Pale Mountains”, these imposing, bizarre rock formations are a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s easy to see why. The very sight of them is so moving that I can hardly take my eyes away. Standing in the midst of these mountains, I have a sudden sense of how small and insignificant I am – and yet I feel strong, too. And so alive. So, this is what life really amounts to, I think, realising that this new-found

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World Heritage site Designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site can be compared to winning a Nobel Prize. The criteria for selection include uniqueness, exceptional qualities and universal value.

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awareness of my insignificance in the grand scheme of things actually feels good. As I stop to take a rest, the spell is abruptly broken when my mobile phone falls out of my rucksack. I notice three missed calls and two WhatsApp messages before quickly turning it off and stuffing it back into my rucksack under my anorak. And with that, I keep on hiking. All those worries which were weighing me down yesterday or even a few hours ago have disappeared into nothing and I can see things clearly again. I look forward to taking my next step, to enjoying an evening tucking into dumplings in a cosy mountain lodge, before shivering as I get into bed, where I’ll wrap myself in a warm blanket and drift exhausted into a deep sleep. I look forward to waking in joyful anticipation of the cold, clear mountain air and to taking my first steps as the sun rises. And I even look forward – not quite yet, but at some point – to reaching my final destination, descending back into the valley and returning to civilisation. To everyday life, safe in the knowledge that after a hike like this I’ll be able to face it with a smile, at least for a few days. All the deadlines, work meetings, bills and newspaper headlines won’t seem so bad after all – with the mountains and the sense of happiness I felt still ablaze in my mind. Being up in the clouds in the heart of nature gives you an inner strength, a renewed love of life, restored energy. As a species, we have an innate need for nature, a need which runs deep in our veins, often without us even being aware of it. Standing with my eyes fixed on the mighty Peitlerkofel and Geisler peaks, I take off my rucksack and dig out an apple. In all honesty, I’m not a huge fan of apples and I hardly ever eat them down in the valley. But it’s all I have left and so, full of a joyful exhaustion, I bite into its juicy flesh. And I suddenly feel as if I’m eating the best apple I’ve ever tasted in my life. I can’t stop thinking about a sentence written by Henry David Thoreau, that wise American itinerant philosopher I mentioned at the start. “I wish to speak a word for Nature, for absolute freedom and wildness, as contrasted with a freedom and culture merely civil – to regard man as an inhabitant, or a part and parcel of Nature, rather than a member of society.” He was right.

For further information about the Dolorama Track and places to stay, please visit: www.suedtirol.info/ dolorama

Nestled beneath the Peitlerkofel mountain with views across the Geisler massif, the Schlüterhütte lodge is a welcoming end to one of the hike’s stages.

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I can see things clearly again. I look forward to taking my next step – and to enjoying a wonderful evening.

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The Outdooractive app is the perfect companion for hiking, biking and other outdoor activities.

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The Dolorama Track at a Glance Divided into four one-day stages, the Dolorama Track (Dolorama-Weg) consists of easy forestry paths and hiking trails and runs from the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture via the Maurerberg mountain and the Würzjoch pass, past the Peitlerkofel and Aferer and Villnösser Geisler peaks, before finishing in the village of Lajen/Laion above Klausen/Chiusa. Instead of embarking on the full four-day hike, it is possible to complete the sections individually. The access paths and descents as well as the start and end points of each stage are all accessible by public transport. Refreshments are available from the numerous mountain lodges found along the route. We recommend booking overnight accommodation in advance.

Length: 61 kilometres Total walking time: approx. 20 hours Start: Zumis car park, Rodeneck/Rodengo End: the village of Lajen/Laion Ascent: 2,356 metres Descent: 3,004 metres Difficulty:

www.suedtirol.info/dolorama

Schlüterhütte lodge to Schutzhütte Raschötz lodge (approx. 5 hours)

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The stages of the route 1st stage Zumis car park on the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture to Maurerberghütte lodge (walking time: 6 to 7 hours) 2nd stage Maurerberghütte lodge to Schlüterhütte lodge (approx. 5 hours) 3rd stage

4th stage Schutzhütte Raschötz lodge to Lajen (approx. 3 hours)

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Something for Everyone Five other hikes for all interests and abilities

For mountaineers The Pfunderer Höhenweg High Mountain Trail Crossing lush meadows and rugged, rocky terrain, this route takes you off the beaten track through pristine nature, which has been left virtually untouched for centuries.

Length: 72.5 kilometres Total walking time: approx. 30 hours Start: Sterzing/Vipiteno End: St. Georgen/San Giorgio near Bruneck/ Brunico Ascent: 4,710 metres Descent: 4,830 metres Stages: 6 Difficulty:

Route highlight: the Edelrauthütte lodge and its intriguing architecture at 2,545 metres above sea level

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Route highlight: Säben Abbey (Klausen/Chiusa, pictured) and Velthurns Castle (Feldthurns/Velturno, see p. 54)

For lovers of autumn The Keschtnweg Chestnut Trail This easy hike among vibrantly coloured chestnut trees is particularly beautiful during harvest season, although its low altitude also makes it ideal for springtime. Numerous farmhouse inns serving South Tyrolean specialities can be found dotted along the route.

Length: 62 kilometres Total walking time: approx. 20 hours Start: Kloster Neustift Monastery, Brixen/ Bressanone End: Runkelstein Castle, Bolzano/Bozen Ascent: 2,070 metres Descent: 2,330 metres Stages: 4 Difficulty:

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Route highlight: the Latzfonser Kreuz mountain refuge and the neighbouring church, the highest pilgrimage site in Europe at 2,296 metres above sea level

For versatile hikers The Hufeisentour Horseshoe Hike A classic hike through rustic, often unspoilt nature. Panoramic views across the Eisacktal valley can be enjoyed on three of the stages and anyone who completes all seven will be rewarded with a badge to remember their achievement by.

Length: 81.5 kilometres Total walking time: 35–40 hours Start: Rittner Horn/Corno del Renon, accessible from Barbian/Barbiano, Villanders/Villandro and Klausen/Chiusa End: Sarnthein/Sarentino, Sarntal valley Ascent: 4,060 metres Descent: 4,000 metres Stages: 7 Difficulty:

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For lovers of spring The Apfelweg Apple Trail Located around Natz-Schabs/Naz-Sciaves, this short, easy walk takes you through the apple plateau, which transforms into a sea of blossom every spring. The route passes through the Sommersürs and Raiermoos biotopes, which are home to an impressive variety of plants.

Length: 8 kilometres Walking time: 2.5 hours Start: Natz/Naz End: Natz/Naz Ascent: 130 metres Descent: 130 metres Stages: 1 Difficulty:

Route highlight: the Ölberg viewpoint with comfortable loungers

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For extreme sports enthusiasts Dolomites Ultra Trail Once a year, teams of two compete in this spectacular, incredibly tough mountain race through the majestic Dolomites.

Length: 84 kilometres Total running time: max. 20 hours Start: Brixen/Bressanone cathedral square End: Brixen/Bressanone cathedral square Ascent: 4,728 metres Descent: 4,728 metres Difficulty:

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The next Dolomites Ultra Trail event will take place on 3 July 2021. More information: www.brixenmarathon.com

Route highlight: the section in the Puez-Geisler Nature Park

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ADVERTORIAL

Discover an Artists’ Town Shopping, indulgence, and culture in Klausen/Chiusa

Store opening hours + Monday through Friday, from 9 am to 12 pm and from 3 pm to 7 pm Saturday 9 am to 12 pm www.klausen.it/shopping

Stadtmuseum (Klausen Municipal museum) + The museum is open from the end of March through the beginning of November from Tuesday through Saturday, 9.30 am to 12 pm and 3.30 pm to 6 pm. The Stadtmuseum is closed on Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. www.museumklausenchiusa.it

A Quiet Christmas + During Christmastime, the small medieval town transforms into a quiet place full of atmosphere: Instead of crowds, here you’ll find candlelit alleys and seasonal decorations made from natural materials.

Little Klausen, situated in the lower Eisacktal valley, was selected as one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia”, i. e. one of Italy’s most beautiful historic towns. The medieval flair of its alleys and striking town houses with their narrow, beautifully coloured façades has always been a magnet for artists and poets. The Säben mountain towering over the valley is home to what was once one of the most important episcopal sees of Tyrol. Säben—now a Benedictine convent—as well as the Gothic churches in town, the Capuchian monastery, and the mighty Branzoll castle are testament to the town’s history as a mediaeval customs station. Approx. 2,500 people live in Klausen, nestled among a picturesque landscape of vineyards and chestnut groves that have seen centuries of active farming. The town was Albrecht Dürer’s source of inspiration for the copper engraving titled “The Great Fortune”, depicting the Greek goddess Nemesis balancing on a sphere over the town. In this modern day and age, numerous little owner-run shops and trendy independent boutiques attract shoppers

to stroll along the historical old town streets. Check out the colourful flower vendors, find traditional and modern craftwork, shop top-of-the-range women’s fashion, and explore native, regional, and fair-trade products. The inns situated alongside Klausens’s winding alleys have been around for centuries, serving guests back when the main road from the Brenner/ Brennero pass to the South still crossed right through the town. Today, the town inns offer plenty of home-made, traditional Alpine dishes from South Tyrol as well as Italian-Mediterranean specialities.

www.klausen.it/medievalchristmas

In the weeks before Christmas, Klausen’s night watch light hundreds of lanterns in the town’s narrow streets.

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Get Into the Christmas Spirit A festive stroll

Winter in All Its Glory In and around Brixen/Bressanone and Klausen/Chiusa, the winter months have much to offer in addition to skiing and snowboarding. Ten things to do â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from night-time excursions to cultural tours

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From picture-perfect wooden stalls and air filled with the warming scent of cinnamon and cloves to fairy lights illuminating the wintery evening sky, Brixenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Christmas market is a true classic. The splendid location at the foot of the magnificent cathedral and the Spectaculaires light and music show at Hofburg palace make it a magical place to visit. In December Klausen transforms into a quiet, atmospheric town with candlelit cobbled streets and Christmas decorations made from natural materials. For a few years now, the Ronegga Platzladvent Christmas market in Vill/Villa in Rodeneck/Rodengo has been ideal for escaping the hustle and bustle. Visitors can purchase mulled wine, tea, homemade biscuits and handicrafts, with some of the proceeds being donated to charity. The Tearna Advent experience in Terenten/Terento is particularly popular with locals and families. In addition to the petting zoo, biscuit baking and a fairy-tale night for children, stall holders can be found selling an array of handmade products and rural specialities from traditional huts in the Stockner Waldile forest next to the playground.

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Ski After Dark Night ski touring and skiing While some can be found enjoying a leisurely dinner after the sun goes down, the more adventurous among us may prefer to strap on some touring skis and head up the mountain. Most of the skiing areas in and around Brixen and Klausen give their snowcats a few hours off one night a week and safely open their slopes to ski tourers. On the Plose, for example, skiers can climb from St. Andrä/S. Andrea to Kreuztal/Valcroce on the Trametsch slope every Friday between 6:00pm and 11:00pm. Every Wednesday and on the nights of a full moon, also from 6:00pm to 11:00pm, ski tourers have free rein over the slopes on the Rittner Horn/Corno del Renon. The Feltunerhütte lodge, Unterhornhaus lodge and Schafstall hut below Rittner-Horn-Haus lodge are open on each of these evenings. The main slope in the Jochtal skiing area is also open from 6:00pm to 10:00pm every Tuesday. On these nights, the Jochtal mountain restaurant also opens its doors, and the cable car runs from 8:00pm to 11:00pm. Remember: When embarking on an evening of ski touring, it is important to wear a headlamp and reflective clothing. By the way, those who aren’t quite up to ski touring but can’t get enough of skiing during daylight hours can carve a few extra turns in the snow every Friday from 7:00pm to 9:30pm by the Terenten ski lift, before relaxing with a mug of mulled wine or hot tea in the ski bar.

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Sample Local Craft Beer A new passion for artisanal brews South Tyrol is traditionally known as a wine-growing region. However, this isn’t the only string to its bow, as it has recently also turned its hand to producing beer. In the early 2000s, Klausenbased Norbert Andergassen became one of the area’s first beer-brewing pioneers. His Gassl Bräu brewery is known for its seasonal beers – including basil beer in summer and chestnut beer in autumn – which he serves alongside hearty dishes at his inn of the same name. To the north of Franzensfeste/Fortezza, the AH Bräu brewery in the historic Sachsenklemme inn serves up beers made exclusively from organic ingredients. Alongside traditional lagers and wheat beer, the brewery’s shop offers exotic creations like ginger-flavoured beer, a lupine-infused stout, and beer liqueur. The Harpf family, owners of the eponymous pizzeria in Brixen, also aimed to strike out in a new direction: Bettina Harpf trained as a beer sommelière and, together with head brewer Fabrizio Leo and her father Peter Harpf, she created the Dahoam beer, which is sold as both a classic lager and golden ale variety. www.gassl-braeu.it www.sachsenklemme.it www.harpf.net

Get Close To Nature Relaxing winter hikes Boots crunching through the snow is probably one of the loveliest sounds of winter. An easy snow hike is the circular route from Natz/ Naz to Raas/Rasa, which passes through the Sommersürs biotope and around the Flötscher Weiher lake. Snowshoes are recommended for hikers wishing to climb higher into the mountains. The route on the Terner Jöchl mountain near Terenten is very popular for its views, which extend from the Dolomites’ world-famous Three Peaks to the Schlern mountain. Despite covering 10 kilometres and ascending to 2,400 metres, this hike is relatively easy and offers a fantastic, quintessentially Alpine photo opportunity in front of the cast iron cross at the summit. The numerous winter hiking and snowshoeing trails on the Rodenecker-Lüsner Alm Alpine pasture are also very atmospheric. And anyone who would rather take a break by sitting beside a chapel instead of on a tree stump can snowshoe their way to the Totenkapelle chapel on the Villanderer Alm Alpine pasture. Visitors should always stick to the maintained hiking trails or, when snowshoeing, keep up to date with the latest weather conditions and avalanche forecasts.

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Reach for the Skies Thrilling climbing adventures An intriguing tower with a wavy silver design is visible from afar on the Brixen skyline. It is only on closer inspection – once the white strip splashed with blobs of colour comes into view – that it becomes clear that the tower belongs to the Vertikale climbing gym in Brixen. The centre boasts almost 200 outdoor and indoor climbing routes as well as 700 square metres of bouldering space and various additional facilities, including three auto belay devices. The climbing gym is suitable for beginners and proficient climbers alike, with the levels of difficulty ranging from 3a to 8c. After all that exertion, the Horizontale bar is the ideal spot to take in the climbing action on the wall or to enjoy views across Brixen’s old town. www.vertikale.it

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Take a Plunge Swimming and enjoying a sauna in relaxing surroundings The Acquarena in Brixen and the Alpinpool in Meransen/Maranza are the perfect places for skiers to rest their weary legs in a bubbling whirlpool or to find relief for sore muscles in the soothing, mild temperatures of the bio sauna. In addition to its large indoor pool area featuring a sports and saltwater pool, the Acquarena also boasts a sauna complex with a roof terrace, shallow Kneipp water treading pools and a relaxation room illuminated with soothing green lights. The site also features a fitness centre for anyone looking to get their heart pumping and a physiotherapy centre for those wishing to ease their aches and pains. With its beautifully warm water and three pool depths suitable for babies through to teenagers, the swimming pool in Meransen provides fun for all the family. It is also an idyllic venue for anyone seeking some peace and quiet away from the hubbub of the region’s town centres. Sauna fans shouldn’t miss the outdoor facility, which is heated to a sweltering 90 degrees, and the open-air area for cooling down in afterwards – in winter, guests can even jump straight into the snow. www.acquarena.com www.alpinpool.it

Marvel at Some Impressive Art Cultural inspiration The South Tyrolean Artists Association is an important platform for promoting the local art scene. As part of this endeavour, it acquired and renovated the Stadtgalerie Brixen city gallery in 2019. The gallery now hosts four to five contemporary art exhibitions every year. The small artists’ town of Klausen, on the other hand, has a wealth of religious art, including works found in the Gothic Andreaskirche and Apostelkirche churches and the Loretokapelle chapel, which is a replica of the Holy House of Nazareth in Loreto in the Italian province of Ancona. Klausen is overlooked by the impressive Säben Abbey, which towers high above the town. Mühlbach/Rio di Pusteria is a hidden gem for art lovers. The village’s Wolkensteiner Haus has been home to the Galerie 90 art gallery since 2006. Every year, five to six themed exhibitions showcasing contemporary art from the region and abroad are organised here under the direction of Alex Pergher. Advance booking is required. www.kuenstlerbund.org www.klausen.it info@alexpergher.com

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Hit the Cross-Country Ski Trails Cross-country skiing with panoramic views South Tyrol offers an array of cross-country skiing trails, where skiers can rhythmically wind their way through the mountains against the backdrop of the Dolomites. Two shorter trails starting directly in the village of Terenten run across the local plateau. For those looking for more of a challenge, a longer trail of around 17 kilometres leads up to the Würzjoch pass near Villnöß valley. The tour across the RodeneckerLüsner Alm Alpine pasture is similar in length and is suitable for both the skating and traditional diagonal technique. In winter, skiers can take a break in the Oberhauserhütte, Ronerhütte, Rastnerhütte, Starkenfeldhütte or Kreuzwiesenalm mountain lodges. The Schönalm panoramic trail on Rittner Horn is ideal for those looking to take things at a more leisurely pace and is easily accessible from the mid station of the ropeway. If you prefer to train far away from the hustle and bustle and in the middle of nature, the 13-kilometre-long cross-country ski run on the Villanderer Alm Alpine pasture is just right for you.

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Enjoy an Exhilarating Ride Long toboggan runs At 9 kilometres, the RudiRun on the Plose is one of the longest toboggan runs in the Alps, making it perfect for thrill seekers looking to lean back, gather speed and swing around corners. Another highlight for tobogganing fans is the slightly shorter Brimi Winter Run on the Gitschberg mountain. It is divided into two sections, which provides an excellent excuse to stop for refreshments halfway down the hill. Visitors with small children can zoom down the new toboggan run in Vals/Valles, which starts at the mid station of the Schillingbahn gondola lift and is one kilometre in length. Children up to 14 years of age are required to wear a helmet, and older teens and adults are recommended to wear one as well.

Tantalise Your Taste Buds Michelin-starred cuisine Featuring red, semi-circular bench seating and walls elegantly adorned with statues of saints, the Apostelstube in Hotel Elephant is Brixenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first star-rated restaurant. Here, head chef Mathias Bachmann serves five-, six- and seven-course tasting menus in a wonderful art deco dining room. Before the first course is served, he takes guests on a culinary voyage of discovery with an appetiser inspired by the journey made through Europe in the 1500s by Suleiman the elephant, after whom the historic hotel is named. Suleimanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels began in Lisbon, and this is marked by a lime macaron with a red prawn. He then continued on to Barcelona, which is represented by a baked potato praline served with pata negra. In Brixen, Suleiman stopped at the Haus zum hohen Felde, as the inn was originally known before it later became Hotel Elephant. This leg of the journey is remembered by a buckwheat flour tartelette with whitefish caviar. The final stop is Vienna, which is of course brought to life by nothing other than a bite-sized Viennese schnitzel. Closed every Wednesday and Thursday; booking a table is recommended. www.hotelelephant.com

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“Music has shaped my life.”

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“I like my compositions to reflect my roots.” T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

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Folk musician Hans Jocher plays over 23 instruments, while composer Manuela Kerer has even been known to use electric toothbrushes in her work. We sat down with them to talk about music from their childhood, genuine folk music and how to capture the sound of a town

I n t e r v i e w — A R I A N E L Ö B E R T P h o t o g r a p h y — M I C H A E L P E Z Z E I

Manuela Kerer and Hans Jocher outside the latter’s house in St. Andrä near Brixen. They may have been born 47 years apart, but they are united by a love of music.

Interview

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bomber was shot down above Mellaun/ Meluno – one of the wings landed not far from here in the forest and the other ended up on higher ground beneath Kreuztal, while the fuselage fell into a farmer’s garden. The smaller parts were strewn about everywhere. From the debris, I was able to pick up the metal I needed to make the rings and tuning key, and I wound together strings out of various wires. My future father-in-law was actually the one to rescue the pilot from the forest, more than likely saving him from freezing to death. He set out with his dog and hunting rifle and spent half a day looking for him. But when he found him, the pilot was unarmed and was probably more afraid than his rescuer. The pilot has since passed away, but we are still in contact with his family and they come to visit us regularly.

Hans Jocher Multi-instrumentalist Hans Jocher was born on the Frötscherhof farm in Obermellaun/Meluno di Sopra in 1933. He learnt to play his first instrument – the zither – at the age of 11. This was quickly followed by the flute, guitar and many other instruments, with over 23 now in his repertoire. As a young boy, he sang in the church choir, played in the church orchestra and trained to be a band conductor. He completed his teacher training in Meran/Merano and worked as a primary school teacher in St. Andrä/S. Andrea until his retirement. He has conducted a number of orchestras and choirs, including the mixed choir at his teacher training college and a girls’ choir at the Kloster der Englischen Fräulein school. He has appeared as a musician in numerous films and stage plays, and still likes to sing folk music for locals and visitors to this day.

Mr Jocher, how many instruments can you play? Hans Jocher: I’m honestly not sure anymore. The last time I counted, I made it 23, but I’m sure it’s more than that by now. From the violin, harp, dulcimer and zither to the bagpipes, jaw harp, flute, hurdygurdy and trumpet, it’s a long list! Manuela Kerer: 23 – that’s really impressive! What instrument did you start with? Hans Jocher: A zither given to me by one of my uncles in 1944. It must be around 160 years old now, but I still play it today. A precursor of the zither is the Raffele. It’s a traditional instrument around these parts, and I can be seen playing it in numerous films from the seventies set in Tyrol. Manuela Kerer: There is also a Raffele in my opera TOTEIS. Your first zither has an interesting history, doesn’t it? Something to do with an American bomber, I believe. Hans Jocher: Yes, that’s right. The zither was missing its tuning key and the rings you use to pluck the strings. Objects like these were very hard to come by at the time. On 29 December 1944, an American

What attracted you both to music? Hans Jocher: Music has been a huge part of my life since I was a small child. We used to have a gramophone in our living room – one of those huge, box-shaped ones – and I liked to stand in front of it as a small boy and pretend to be a conductor. Manuela Kerer: The first instrument I learnt to play was the hammered dulcimer, a widely played instrument in the German-speaking Alps. I began my lessons at the same time as my sister started to play the zither. I was only four years old at the time and couldn’t read a single note, but I wanted to learn an instrument as well. So the teacher painted colours on the strings and the sheets of music. I later switched to the violin, while my siblings all began to play wind instruments, which are much more typical in South Tyrol/Südtirol. Hans Jocher: Wind instruments were a later addition for me too. My brother learnt the clarinet but didn’t want to walk to his lessons in the evening through the dark forest on his own, so I went along with him. The conductor of the village band must have noticed my enthusiasm for music and handed me a flute. From then on, I was allowed to learn as well. This was 1945 – and just a year later, I started to play in the band. At that time, people played music everywhere. I even used to take my instruments with me into the field. I sent the horses off to plough on their own, while I stood nearby with my piccolo. And while sheepherding, I used to take my clarinet, flugelhorn or even my small home-made zither with me. Later, the band leader picked me for the church choir, gave me violin lessons and sent me on a conductor course – all of this happened before my 13th or 14th birthday.

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Growing up, my house seemed so peaceful. I remember hearing the low murmur of the TV in my friends’ houses. It wasn’t like that at home. Manuela Kerer

Hans Jocher’s collection of instruments includes an Alpine horn, hurdy-gurdy and zither.

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I’ve played the piano for years and learnt the double bass whilst at music school. And yes, I’ve also been known to use very strange instruments like egg slicers or electric toothbrushes on occasion! When composing music and working with musicians, how important is it to be able to play several instruments and to understand all the ways in which they can be used? Manuela Kerer: It’s definitely a huge help. Knowing my way around a violin so well is especially important when composing particularly complex passages. If a musician tells me that they can’t do something with their instrument, I can show them how it’s done. This surprises them and builds trust.

Despite all this, you never chose to pursue music as your main profession. Why was this? Hans Jocher: No, I actually always wanted to be a teacher, especially because of my primary school teacher, who I really looked up to. Whilst completing my teacher training in Meran/Merano, I had the chance to learn the organ as well as the piano and music theory. Music was always a huge part of my life and even helped me when I was drafted into the military service... Tell us more! Hans Jocher: I was called up in the middle of my training and told that I’d have to move away from Meran. But the military band leader was looking for a trumpeter, and a colleague recommended me. This meant I didn’t have to go away. Ms Kerer, you also use unusual instruments in your compositions. Manuela Kerer: The subject I’m writing about always inspires my choice of instruments and although I write contemporary music, I like my compositions to reflect my roots. For example, I play the Raffele in a piece where you really wouldn’t expect it! But I use traditional instruments, too.

What has influenced your style of music? Manuela Kerer: Growing up, my house seemed so peaceful. I remember always hearing the low murmur of the radio or TV in many of my friends’ houses. But it wasn’t like that at home. This definitely shaped me as much as my parents’ household goods shop, where I practically grew up. It was here that I discovered the egg slicers I’ve already mentioned. But what I recall most clearly are the huge bundles of newspapers we used to wrap china in and the rustling they used to make. Another sound I associate with this time is the clinking noise the glass or china would make when we tapped on it to check it was intact. Besides using unusual instruments in your compositions, you also create music with somewhat unusual themes. For example, you’ve written music inspired by articles in the Italian Penal Code and by your home town of Brixen/Bressanone. Can you describe what Brixen sounds like? Manuela Kerer: It has a very diverse sound, which is both quiet and loud and includes a variety of people’s voices. And since it is an episcopal town, the cathedral bells are also a part of it. Unfortunately, contemporary classical music usually only reaches a very small audience, and there are often more people on the stage than in front of

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Music has always been a huge part of my life and has helped me time and time again. Hans Jocher

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it. This is why I made a conscious decision to premiere the piece somewhere I knew there would be a lot of people, and so I arranged for it to be performed at the opening of Brixen’s Altstadtfest town festival. I believe that many people don’t realise what they are missing out on. Music is also a matter of habit, as something you’ve grown up with sounds very different to something you listen to for the first time. Sadly, the radio has made our tastes very one-sided.

Manuela Kerer Composer Manuela Kerer was born in Brixen in 1980. She studied violin and composition at the Tyrolean State Conservatory at the same time as reading law and psychology at the University of Innsbruck, subsequently gaining PhDs in both subjects. In her contemporary music compositions, Manuela places immense value on exploring and pushing the boundaries of musical expression and on using unusual instruments. Her other areas of focus include musical theatre and opera. Her most recent opera is TOTEIS, which premiered with a chamber orchestra in Vienna in September 2020 and premieres with a symphony orchestra in Bolzano/Bozen in March 2021. Manuela also composes for ensembles such as Kaleidoskop Berlin and Klangforum Wien. She has received numerous awards, including the Austrian State Grant for Composition and the Walther von der Vogelweide prize. www.manuela-kerer.bz

And what does the Italian Penal Code sound like? Manuela Kerer: It contains some very curious laws, such as the parts concerning public obscenities or bigamy. I was quite bold with my representation of bigamy, as I started off with two voices and then added more and more into the mix. In the section on public obscenities, the string players had to put earplugs between their strings during one part – new music is often about tweaking and extending an instrument’s scope so that you can keep breaking even more new ground. How much of your music is inspired by South Tyrol and how much by London or New York, where you have also spent a lot of time? Manuela Kerer: My music is partly influenced by my roots, which – as is also the case with Hans – lie in genuine folk music and not in the popular, folk-like genre derived from it, which nowadays is sadly all too often mistaken for the real thing. Later at school, I began to study art music by the likes of Johann Sebastian Bach, Ludwig van Beethoven and, to name a more modern composer, Alban Berg. All of these musicians have also used elements of folk music because this formed part of their roots as well. Having said that, travel,

other musical cultures and foreign instruments shape you just as much. Moral influences are also important, in the sense that music is and must be political and is always a reflection of society. In addition to studying the violin and composition, you have also studied and even gained PhDs in both psychology and law. Where do these wide-ranging interests stem from? Manuela Kerer: I believe that fundamentally everyone has a broad range of interests, and I’m no exception. Initially, I thought to myself that I’d just complete the first section of the course and that I wouldn’t have time to get any further due to all my other commitments. This relaxed attitude definitely helped me, especially when it came to getting through the difficult law degree. I also find that psychology and law complement composing very well and have enriched my compositions. Can you each tell us about a special moment in your musical careers? Manuela Kerer: One of my stand-out memories also has to do with Brixen. During the town’s first Water Light Festival in 2017, I set up five grand pianos on the peninsula at the confluence of the Eisack and Rienz rivers in preparation for a series of sunrise concerts at 5:00am. We were warned that hardly anyone was expected to come at that hour, so we were absolutely astonished when the first concert attracted an audience of 800. On top of this, the special location and the chance to spend a morning in such beautiful natural surroundings made it a truly memorable event. Hans Jocher: Music has been such a huge part of my life that it has given me many special moments. I’ve travelled to so many countries and have met musicians from all around the world. And we’ve had so many come here to us. One particular memory I cherish is meeting musicians from Japan and watching them play the zither. What projects are you both working on at present? Manuela Kerer: I’m primarily focusing on my opera TOTEIS, which is about the life of Viktoria Savs, who disguised herself as a man so she could serve in the First World War. She was later glorified as a heroine by the Nazis and died a lonely death in Salzburg in 1979. She was someone who tried to get close to leading members of the Nazi party and subsequently never dissociated herself from her past life. Hans Jocher: I have a lot of music left in me. I still perform in various local hotels and one of the first questions regulars often ask when they arrive is whether Hans will be playing again.

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Architecture!

Many stylishly renovated and new buildings shape the landscape in this part of South Tyrol/Südtirol, each of them full of character and charm. From Bauhaus to Romantic, time-honoured to modern – here are a few examples

A Small Gem The Briol guest house in Barbian/Barbiano was built in the Bauhaus style in 1928. In addition to planning the simple cube-shaped building with its flat roof, artist Hubert Lanzinger designed the entire interior – from the chairs and tableware to the use of colour. The total work of art has remained virtually unchanged to this very day: You won’t find an internet connection here. The steep access route is also the same, as the guest house can still only be reached on foot or by taxi pick-up. www.briol.it

• Franzensfeste • Rodeneck

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2 4 • Vahrn • Lüsen 3 • Brixen

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Modern Romance

Designed by Brixen-based architectural firm raum3, the Oberhauser HĂźtte lodge was constructed in 2019. The building stands out for its blissfully peaceful location on the plateau of the RodeneckerLĂźsner Alm Alpine pasture and its distinct style, which contrasts vividly with its idyllic surroundings. www.oberhauserhuette.com

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Curved Landmark

The long-established Brixenbased company Durst specialises in printing technologies. Completed in 2019, its headquarters – planned by monovolume architecture+ design in Bolzano/Bozen – features a striking flat wing which soars up into a 35-metre-high tower visible from afar. The metal façade with its windows arranged like pixels and illuminated in various colours houses a customer service centre, offices for around 150 staff members and training and conference rooms. www.durst-group.com

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Beer and Ice Cream

Brewery, farmhouse tavern and ice-cream parlour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Hubenbauer inn in Vahrn/Varna has lots of strings to its bow. In 2020, its owners installed state-of-the-art brewing equipment in the existing barn. The space now also features a gallery used for beer tasting. Architect Lukas Mayr used simple concrete, glass and wood from the old gable roof, with the aim of preserving the barnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rustic atmosphere. www.hubenbauer.com

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Careful Renovation

The Huberhof farmhouse is a listed building and has stood in the centre of Natz/Naz for centuries, first appearing in records in 1182. After being left deserted for years, it was extensively yet sympathetically restored in 2011. Overseen by architect Stefan Gamper from Klausen, the project is an excellent example of how to perfectly blend the old with the new. www.huberhof-natz.com

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New Life Breathed into Historic Walls

A masterpiece of Austrian military architecture, the Franzensfeste Fortress was opened in 1838. Despite appearances, no military action was actually ever played out here and it never fulfilled its role as an insurmountable stronghold. The fortress was finally awoken from its 150-year slumber when it was renovated in order to host both the Manifesta 7 international art exhibition and the South Tyrolean Provincial Exhibition in 2009. The renovation work was undertaken by the three architects Markus Scherer, Karl Walter Dietl and Klaus Plattner. The fortress has since become a popular venue for a variety of exhibitions and events, its historic walls serving as a brilliant backdrop for displays showcasing contemporary art by young artists. www.franzensfeste.info

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Truly Exceptional The renowned Vini d’Italia 2021 wine guide published by Gambero Rosso distinguishes three wines from the Eisacktal valley with its top rating of “Tre Bicchieri” (Three Glasses), which is only awarded for truly exceptional wines.

1: STIFTSKELLEREI NEUSTIFT WINERY Grüner Veltliner Praepositus 2019 2: STRASSERHOF WINERY Sylvaner 2019 3: KÖFERERHOF WINERY Sylvaner R 2018

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V is for Variety Tasting, drinking and talking shop: how to do it properly. Alexandra Erlacher, a sommelière at the Eisacktaler Kellerei winery, shares some expert tips

Alexandra Erlacher Born in 1978, she grew up in Brixen/Bressanone and completed her sommelier training at the South Tyrolean Sommelier Association in 2014. She works as a brand ambassador for the Eisacktaler Kellerei winery.

Which varieties of wine thrive in the Eisacktal valley – and why? Nestled between the prehistoric rock forming the Alps and the towering peaks of the Dolomites, the Eisacktal valley provides excellent growing conditions for white grape varieties, such as the Kerner, Sylvaner, Müller Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. The high and steep vineyards at altitudes of 350 to almost 1,000 metres, the wide range of soils, locations and orientations, the ability to customise the incidence of sunlight to requirements, and the special microclimate are what make the area ideal for white wine varieties. Why are so many varieties grown here and across South Tyrol/Südtirol? South Tyrol is located at an intersection between Alpine and Mediterranean vegetation, meaning we have a wide array of soil formations at our disposal. The microclimate changes many times over in the space of just a few kilometres. The range of climatic, geographical and geological factors provides ideal conditions for a vast assortment of red and white grape varieties. Close your eyes. What springs to mind when you hear the words “wine” and “home”? Gently rolling vineyards bathed in sunlight and peppered with a colourful mix of flowers, steep slopes with neatly constructed dry stone walls running through them, the sound of birds chirping, and winegrowers and their families gathering the grapes.

If a friend with an interest in wine visited you for the day, where would you take them? I would take them to the Eisacktaler Kellerei’s highest vineyard, which stands at 950 metres above sea level. As we admire the spectacular views across the Geisler peaks and the vineyards on the opposite side of the valley, we would sample the wines produced from the winery’s Müller Thurgau and Kerner grapes. Increasing temperatures are forcing grapes to be grown at higher altitudes. What does this mean for local winegrowers? South Tyrol has not evaded the noticeable effects of climate change. However, the Eisacktal valley is fortunate in that its vineyards lie at an average of 600 to 800 metres above sea level. Some are even located at altitudes of 900 to almost 1,000 metres. While the grape varieties chosen need to be suitable for these higher altitudes, these dizzy heights have several advantages, including lower temperatures, greater differences in temperature between day and night, and more intense sunlight. This has a positive impact on the constituents of the grapes and creates wines with a more distinctive character. For further information, please visit: www.eisacktalwein.com www.eisacktalerkellerei.it

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Drop in Velthurns Castle is located directly on the Keschtnweg Chestnut Trail, which is particularly beautiful in autumn (see p. 25)

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A P I E C E O F H I S T O R Y

The Magic Number 7 oodworkers spent seven years, seven months and seven days handcrafting the seven types of wood found in the magnificent state room at Velthurns Castle. This at least is the legend which has been handed down over the centuries. The magic number seven, over and over! But is the story really true? What we do know for certain is that the state room was first occupied by Prince-Bishop Johann Thomas von Spaur in autumn 1584. He arranged to have the room ornately decorated with intarsia inlays by Meran/Merano-based master craftsman Hans Spineider, who most likely learnt this handicraft whilst working as a journeyman in Augsburg. At that time, the city was regarded as an important centre for intarsia, and in the 1530s, a machine was even invented there to assist with the cutting of exceptionally fine inlays. The inventor kept his innovation a secret, however, and the mechanics behind it

remain shrouded in mystery to this day. Less of a mystery but by no means less impressive is the blue-green colour found in some of the pieces of wood, which is actually attributed to a species of fungus and not a dye. The ruins depicted in this piece were a popular motif found in the style of intarsia originating from Augsburg. The crane towering above them with a gripper – known as “the wolf ” – carrying a building block is particularly curious. But it isn’t a sign that the ruins were being restored or rebuilt. In actual fact, the crane represents the rebirth of antiquity. Going back to the magic sevens, the legend did not quite hit the mark, as in reality eight types of wood can be found in the state room: pear, ash, spruce, cherry, lime, walnut, olive and pine.

Velthurns Castle + The former summer residence of the prince-bishops of Brixen/ Bressanone, Velthurns is one of the best preserved Renaissance palaces in the Alps. Besides its original murals and panelling, the castle houses an archaeological museum with artefacts found in Feldthurns/Velturno and the Eisacktal valley. The castle is open to visitors from March to November. + Dorf 1, 39040 Feldthurns, +39 0472 855 525 www.schlossvelthurns.it

Inlay work in the state room Age: approx. 450 years Material: various types of wood Master craftsman: Hans Spineider

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Beautiful Things

Products from the region

1 Made by hand

The Oehler family know their craft inside out and still make all their leather goods by hand in their Fashion Factory today. Their creations include bags, leather bracelets, chic phone cases and swish leather belts. Products are available for purchase in Oehler’s boutiques in Brixen/Bressanone and online, with belts starting at 125 euros and handbags at 189 euros. www.oehler-fashion.it

2 Plastic free

The plastic-free organic “Novo” supermarkets opened by Maria Lobis and Stefan Zanotti stock everything you need for your weekly shop – in the form of environmentally friendly, organic products sold without packaging wherever possible. The pair have also developed their own brand, “be aware”. The new “be aware” safety razor for use on the face and body is made from bamboo and stainless steel and is available in the Brixen branch and online for 27.90 euros. www.novo.bz

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3 Cheese matured in a bunker

4 Fire and flame

Since founding Degust, Michelinstarred chef Hansi Baumgartner and his wife Edith have focused all their energy on refining cheese, pairing it with ingredients ranging from walnuts to orange. They store their gourmet creations in a bunker, where the conditions are just right for maturing the cheese. Their products include the Chocobert, a Camembert infused with chocolate (45.60 euros/kg), and the Golden Gel, a buttery, fruity cheese refined with grape pomace (31.14 euros/ kg). Available in the shop in Vahrn/ Varna or online.

Angelika Priller from Klerant/ Cleran near Brixen has devoted herself to the art of pottery. Her preferred firing technique is the Japanese raku method, which uses sawdust to smother the fire, giving the glaze its characteristic cracks. In addition to crockery, her online shop sells a range of decorative items including lamps and flower pots. No two objects are the same and prices vary, with plates, for example, starting at 35 euros. www.keramik-angelika.com

www.degust.com

7 5 Light snack

On the Obergostnerhof farm above Säben Abbey, the apples grown by the Gasser family ripen on sun-drenched slopes. After harvesting, the sweet fruits are made into crispy apple chips by cutting them into slices and gently drying them without the addition of ingredients like sulphur or sugar. They are available for purchase (3.50 euros for 90 g) in the family’s farm shop. Dried pears, strawberries and plums are also on sale here. 5

6 Natural sweetness

Natural and, wherever possible, regionally sourced ingredients, fresh fruit and compostable tubs – the Brixen-based cult ice-cream parlour Feli & Fuchs places immense value on authentic taste and sustainability. The shop also sells delicious Italian pastries and in summer, the ice cream is additionally sold from a travelling carrettino or ice-cream cart. The flavours include exotic combinations like “Mascaber” – mascarpone, chocolate and raspberry – or “Feldthurner Walnuss”, which features candied green walnuts. One scoop costs 1.40 euros.

www.gasser.bz.it

7 Soothing honey

Beekeeper Erich Larcher has dedicated his life to bees since 1988. Besides selling honey, he uses it to create soothing and fragrant personal care and cosmetic items. His products include soap, moisturiser and hair balm made from honey as well as a range containing the health-promoting active ingredient propolis. Propolis drops, for example, cost 12.50 euros (20 ml). Available online or directly from Larcher’s business premises, ERLA, in Vahrn. www.larcher-honigprodukte.it

www.feliefuchs.shop

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B y — K R I S T I N A P h o t o g r a p h y —

E R H A R D P A T R I C K

S C H W I E N B A C H E R

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Tiziano Stimpfl has the best job in the world: He’s paid to spend his days skiing and putting a smile on people’s faces. But that’s not always as easy as it sounds

iziano Stimpfl has the “best job in the world.” Or at least this was the description used in the job ad forwarded to him by his friends on WhatsApp. “That’s right up my street,” the now 34-year-old thought to himself as he applied for the position of Il Cavaliere, a charming ski guide, for the winter season in the Gitschberg Jochtal skiing area. That summer two years ago, he was working in record temperatures of over 37 degrees as a mountain bike guide in Arco on Lake Garda. “Mountain biking is my first love, but snowboarding comes in at a close second.” He started imagining what it would be like to work as a ski guide and get paid for spending the whole day on the slopes. Summer on the saddle and winter on skis. Che figata – how cool! He simply had to apply. Despite there being more than 40 applicants, he was the one chosen for the role – thanks, so he was told, to his cheerful nature and his previous experience as a mountain bike guide. Standing by the radiator next to his bed, Tiziano buttons up his thick, black, woollen tailcoat as he gazes out of the window. The winter sun is rising over the Dolomites and a beautiful new working day is dawning.

There were more than 40 applicants, but Tiziano Stimpfl got the job – and now spends his winters on the slopes.

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7:20am In Meransen/Maranza, a village lying at 1,400 metres above sea level, the only sound disturbing the still winter morning is the noise of the snow groomers being returned to their garages by the cable car valley station. Tiziano has always loved the mountains. “I used to spend my winters working as a waiter in an Italian restaurant in Sydney. I prefer it here,” he says, sipping an espresso from the small coffee machine in his accommodation’s common room. Throughout the winter season, he lives in a room right next to the valley station. He was born and raised in Cadine, a village in Trentino with 1,400 inhabitants at the foot of Monte Bondone, the mountain on which he learnt to ski and snowboard. Today, he’s living the dream by being able to walk to work and getting paid to spend the entire day on the slopes. “Having this job means a lot to me. I couldn’t sit around in front of a computer in an office all day,” he says, glancing at his watch. It’s time to go!

10:00am Tiziano has a sunny personality. This is how he’s always been described by his nonna, his beloved grandmother, whom he visits in Arco as much as possible on his days off, which usually fall on a Sunday and Monday. He has the gift of being able to make people laugh without always having to clown around, which is an art form not everyone can master. His warm, friendly nature leaves skiers eager to join him for a weekly Italian aperitif at the Nesselbahn cable car mountain station, a glass of Prosecco or cloudy apple juice in their hands. Entertaining children and their parents in the Gitschberg Jochtal skiing area is all part of Tiziano’s job description. His daily work includes handing out

Il Cavaliere English for cavalier. The word used to mean a horseman and later referred to a knight. Today, it describes an attentive, very polite man.

drinks, providing all manner of information about the skiing area, having tissues at the ready for all eventualities and presenting medals to youngsters after they complete their skiing lessons. Sometimes he will even open a bottle of sparkling wine with the edge of his skis, occasionally allowing the trick to go wrong to make everyone laugh. In a nutshell, Tiziano’s job is to do whatever he can to make the ski resort an even more pleasant place to be. And he’s never off duty – he even has to stay in character during his lunch break. At the Nesselhütte mountain lodge, children stare in amazement as Tiziano walks through the door with a large, black top hat firmly attached to his ski helmet. It’s not always easy to act spontaneously or to smile on cue. “With children, cheerfulness seems to be infectious, but with adults it’s all about getting the timing right. Women laugh more than men, Austrians more than Italians and some Germans are a little harder to crack,” he explains with a twinkle in his eye. Someone like Tiziano needs to be able to raise laughter among people from all corners of the globe and this calls for

humour and sensitivity in almost equal measure. The ski guide takes off his top hat, opens a small flap on its round rim and reaches into it to pull out mini packs of gummy bears, which he hands out to a group of children taking skiing lessons. He then sits down at an empty table. “Most children think I’m a magician. And in a lot of ways, they’re right – I’m always good for a surprise. It can be a lot of fun,” he says. But it is also exhausting after a while.

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Part of his job involves him spending lunchtime sitting and chatting with visitors, but he himself only gets a chance to eat once they are all back on the slopes. His favourite dish is fried potatoes and he often shares his lunch break with Giacomo, who is also from Trentino and works on the slopes as a Carabinieri police officer. “I’m sure some visitors find us a funny sight – me wearing my huge top hat and Giacomo in his dark-blue ski uniform with the word Carabinieri printed on the back,” laughs Tiziano. Giacomo also spends all day on the slopes in winter and if anyone is going to understand how physically demanding that can be, then it’s him. “Our jobs are more similar than you would think,” continues Tiziano. “Police officers on the slopes provide information, give directions and try to make visits to the skiing region as pleasant as possible. Just without the jokes and gummy bears.” Tiziano smooths down his tailcoat and stands up. He needs to get to his next engagement – a snowcat tour at the Jochtal mountain station.

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Tiziano also gives snowcat tours. Holidaymakers are fascinated by these 14-tonne behemoths.

2:00pm

“Children think I’m a magician. And in a lot of ways, they’re right.”

Weighing in at 14 tonnes, snowcats are a source of fascination for many holidaymakers. The children hesitate before edging their way towards the snow groomer, their curiosity getting the better of them. The ski guide explains in German, English and Italian how this behemoth of a vehicle works, lifting the little ones into the driver’s cab. “I think many children used to dream of driving diggers or captaining ships, but today they want to be snowcat drivers – or at least they do here in South Tyrol,” he says. Grey-white clouds are gradually building over the Valler Jöchl

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ridge and the neighbouring Hinterberg mountain. It looks like it’s going to snow. The slopes slowly empty as visitors start to make their way back to their accommodation. And with that, the ski guide should also be thinking about heading home to Meransen.

4:00pm Sitting in the Gaisjochbahn cable car, which connects the Jochtal and Gitschberg skiing areas, Tiziano leans back and rests his head against the cabin’s window pane. In the strip of forest down below, he catches a glimpse of the occasional fallen spruce or fir tree, reminders of the violent storms which raged in the mountains around Brixen/Bressanone and in the Pustertal valley the autumn before last. Tiziano is tired and drained. Making peo-

ple laugh all day is hard work, and these are the moments he notices it the most. “I’m not superman,” he says, disembarking and strapping on his snowboard. And yet, he spends all day pretending to be a kind of superhero whose superpower is his ability to put people in a good mood. It’s now time for Tiziano Stimpfl to clock off for the night from the best job in the world. He shuffles along on his board until he reaches the side of the slope, spins around and gives a friendly smile and wave to a few children standing nearby, before disappearing over the edge and carving sweeping turns in the snow as he makes his way down the wide run towards Meransen.

At around 4:00pm, it’s time for Tiziano Stimpfl to clock off for the night from the best job in the world.

Making people laugh all day is hard work. By evening, Tiziano is very tired and looks forward to spending some time on his own.

55 kilometres In the Gitschberg Jochtal ski & holiday area, 55 kilometres of slopes with guaranteed snow offer a wide range of fun, family-friendly skiing opportunities. There’s even a children’s park to keep the little ones happy. The rustic mountain lodges are ideal for enjoying regional specialities and hot drinks on the sun terrace. www.gitschberg-jochtal.com

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The Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol PART 3:

For the Love of Food

t was only a couple of years pizza, polenta, pasta and risotto and are quite confused ago, after I had been living when the table next to us orders a very un-Italian beef here for a while, that I regoulash or sauerkraut. alized how atypical dining Another American friend of ours was very well inculture is in South Tyrol/ formed of the fact that South Tyrol is not Positano: He Südtirol. And I had to return wanted us to take him to a “typical Tyrolean inn, with to New York to notice it. hunting trophies on the walls” and came prepared, We’re eating on the terin hiking boots and with a very serious-looking backrace of a nice restaurant on pack. My husband was able to persuade him to leave New York’s Upper East Side. the climbing rope and carabiners at home, at least… We It’s chilly, so our daughter went to a typical South Tyrolean Gasthaus, or inn, just Valentina asks the waiter if around the corner from our house, whose menu actually she might have a blanket. featured a very inviting venison steak, the owner being The poor guy – normally able to fulfill every whim of his a hunter himself. Nonetheless, our friend was a little high-maintenance clientele – is completely stumped. I disappointed: He had thought that the only way to enjoy jump in, explaining that my kids grew up in the Alps. these Alpine culinary delights was to go on an adventurWhich doesn’t really seem to clarify things all that ous mountain tour to a remote Alm, an Alpine pasture. much, to be honest. Which brings me to Alm culture. Meanwhile, our son Luca scans It took me years of living here to the menu. Closes it. And confidently fully understand that on a true South announces, “I’ll just have a couple of Tyrolean Alm, very particular rules “Never, ever, Speckknödel.” apply. The most important one is also ever cut Knödel with Simply ordering Knödel dumpa warning for all those who are cona knife!” lings in the knowledge that they are cerned about their figure: Forget your available just about anywhere, and diet! Let’s just say they don’t eat a lot a warm, cozy blanket draped over of alfalfa sprouts and tofu up there. every chair when dining al fresco: South Tyrolean cuisine was created Those are just two of the many South by Alpine folk who farmed steep terTyrolean quirks we now miss when we travel. rain under harsh conditions – which burns a lot of calWhen friends visit us here, though, they are often ories. And makes you hungry, really hungry, for hearty, confused by the eclectic mix of foods – Alpine and rustic and traditional food. Hooray for Speck, cheese and Mediterranean! – and the seemingly myriad rules and carbs! traditions around eating that are observed to the letter. And because South Tyrol, after all, somehow, beThe most crucial of them: Never, ever, ever cut Knödel longs to Italy at least a little bit (and a bit more in culiwith a knife! You use your fork only. nary terms), South Tyroleans – down in the valleys and Friends who come to visit us are often looking for even up on the Alpine pastures – have adopted a lot of one thing only, as soon as they have one foot on South Italian food-related traditions and rules, in addition Tyrolean ground: dolce vita! They expect cozy Italian to their iron “never cut dumplings with a knife” rule. trattorias where there’s still a nonna, a grandmother, Which has not been to their disadvantage. So the folpreparing the food. They want (and, of course, get) lowing holds true here as much as in all of Italy: Don’t

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A Short Dictionary of South Tyrolean Understand what the locals say

Notscherle ever drink a cappuccino after 11 am! Don’t even ask for Parmesan cheese to put on that seafood pasta! Do start eagerly discussing your next meal before you’ve even finished the one you’re currently eating! And: You’re not full until the hostess who cooked for you decides you are full. At some point, German-speaking South Tyroleans understood that as a true Italian you never, ever purchase ravioli from a grocery store: You make them yourself. And at some point, Italian-speaking South Tyroleans learned how to cut Speck properly: paper-thin and bite-sized. That’s how this mountain province created its strange but immensely pleasurable fusion food culture, the likes of which you won’t find even in New York. And there’s one last rule that, in my experience, holds true whether in the South Tyrolean dialect or in Italian: If there’s a vociferous, passionate debate going on at the other end of the table or across the room, you might be tempted to think it’s about politics. No way. Listen closely: They’re arguing about… food!

[ˈnɑt͡ ʃʁlə] This is an affectionate nickname for piglets. Interestingly, it is phonetically similar to the Italian word “norcino”. The Italian town of Norcia in Umbria is famous for its pork, so “norcino” means both “someone from Norcia” and “pork butcher”.

Do a “Purzigagele” [pʊʁt͡ sɪˈgaːgɛlə] Children love doing them anytime and anywhere, while most adults attempt them a lot more reluctantly and almost certainly a lot less elegantly. But what are we talking about? The answer is a forward roll!

Pims Cassandra Han

[ˈpɪms]

Born and raised in the US. In 2008, she moved to South Tyrol, where her husband Lorenzo’s mother is from. In this column, she writes about how she learned to love South Tyrol’s quirks and peculiarities… and how she herself slowly became a true South Tyrolean.

South Tyroleans take a “Pims” with them whenever they go hiking. After all, what could be better at staving off pangs of hunger halfway through a walk than a bread roll stuffed with your favourite fillings?

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A Valley Steeped in History

The banks of the Eisack river have always been used as a transit route. First came Albrecht DĂźrer, then an elephant, finally Goethe and, more recently, modern tourism. A journey through time in a place which has never stood still

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Beautiful town Brixen/Bressanone viewed from Milland/Millan in around 1835. Produced by Friedrich Salathé from a drawing by Frédéric Martens, this is one of the most exceptional and beautiful engravings portraying Tyrol. This is roughly how Brixen must have looked around 50 years earlier in 1786 when Johann Wolfgang von Goethe explored the Eisacktal valley at the start of his legendary journey through Italy. Interestingly, in his records Goethe somehow managed to mistake the Eisack river for the Etsch river.

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Grey giant

Good fortune

Shortly before Christmas 1551, the people of Brixen laid eyes on an elephant for the very first time when a grey giant called Suleiman made his way through the town’s streets on his journey across the Alps to Vienna. The elephant was a gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew Archduke Maximilian of Austria. This painting of an elephant in the cloister of Brixen Cathedral, however, was completed earlier, in around 1470. Fresco painter Leonhard von Brixen had clearly never seen an elephant before and based his depiction of a war elephant on descriptions passed down over the years.

This copper engraving by Albrecht Dürer dates from around 1502 and depicts the Greek goddess Nemesis hovering over Klausen/Chiusa. The piece is called Nemesis – The Great Fortune and shows the small town on the ancient Kuntersweg route from Italy to Germany. Dürer passed through Klausen on his journey through Italy in 1494. Centuries later, numerous other artists have fallen in love with Klausen, including Franz von Defregger, Albin Egger-Lienz and Carl Spitzweg.

Black locomotive A feat of engineering was achieved in 1867 when the completion of the Brenner line between Innsbruck and Bolzano/Bozen meant that the Munich-to-Venice railway connection was finally finished. In this piece, a steam train can be seen passing through the narrowest point between Brixen and Bolzano deep down in the gorge running through the Eisacktal valley, where the track had to be cut through the rock. The railway embankment was prone to frequent flooding and in 1882, the river even washed large parts of it away. Soon, the towns and villages along the line, including Brixen, developed into health resorts – and with that, the first, tender shoots of tourism had sprung.

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Exceptional sight This idyllic photo from 1951 was taken from the main road running past Säben Abbey near Klausen. The “holy mountain” on which the imposing abbey has stood since the end of the 17th century began to be inhabited by settlers as early as the Neolithic period. Säben Abbey became a tourist attraction in the 20th century when the economic boom caused tourism to surge in the 1950s. Cars became status symbols at around the same time – and were a popular feature in holidaymakers’ photos.

Controversial project Work on the A22 Brenner motorway finally began in 1963 after years of bitter disputes over the route. The tourism industry and businesses in Meran/Merano were strongly in favour of constructing a route through the more westerly lying Passeiertal valley – probably out of fear of being cut off from modern life. The final decision, however, was to build the road through the Eisacktal valley. This photo shows the exit near Klausen, which opened in 1974.

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Magnificent panorama The view across the Eisacktal valley today. The motorway can be seen running through the foot of the narrow valley and is overlooked by the familiar, age-old sight of SĂ¤ben Abbey. The Benedictine nunnery is still home to silent cloistered nuns today. The spectacular panoramic views across the valley and the surrounding mountains are also enough to render some visitors speechless.

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Locals reveal hidden gems

My Favourite... Mountain Lake 1

1: Schrüttenseen lakes

2: Totensee lake

Where the rhododendrons blossom

Where I find inner peace

“No outing with the entire family including my nieces and nephews would be complete without a trip to the Schrüttenseen lakes to keep the little ones happy. The lakes are by far the best place for skimming stones or paddling in the cool water. There are two possible routes to the lakes but when we are with the children, we almost always choose the easier option, which starts at the Steinwend car park near Schalders/Scaleres, not far from Brixen/Bressanone. The beautiful, shady path runs through the forest, making it ideal on hot, sunny days. The lakes are especially breathtaking in early summer when the rhododendrons are in bloom, their pink petals contrasting spectacularly with the dark-green forest surrounding the shoreline – it’s heavenly!”

“I’m mesmerised by places around which curious legends have grown. And this is why I can often be found hiking from the Gasserhütte lodge and across the Villanderer Alm Alpine pasture to the Totensee lake. The route passes the Totenkapelle chapel, which is where the last plague victim is said to have been found in the Middle Ages. But is this true or just hearsay? In actual fact, the small chapel and lake, known in English as the Chapel and Lake of the Dead, are named after the desolate yet impressive landscape which surrounds them. My children are fascinated by these mysteries. The hike is relatively easy so sometimes I head out on my own to help me gather my thoughts. On arriving at the lake, I like to lie down on one of the wooden loungers on the shore and completely switch off, if only just for a moment.”

Claudia Oberhofer, 31, marketing assistant

Sabine Prast, 48, office worker Altitude: 1,957 m Hiking route: 12 km Swimming: permitted

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Altitude: 2,208 m Hiking route: 11 km Swimming: permitted

? Cooling off? Before jumping into a mountain lake, please always enquire if swimming is permitted.

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3: Radlsee lake Where the dumplings taste the best “As someone born and bred in Feldthurns/Velturno, I feel compelled to visit the Radlsee lake multiple times each summer. The lake and the adjacent Radlseehütte lodge have cult status. Where else can you enjoy such a magnificent panoramic view of a mountain lake from the terrace? The best way of reaching the lake is to park at the Kühhof farm and then hike uphill through the flowering meadows. Thursday is known as ‘dumpling day’ and there are over ten varieties on the menu.” Marianna Messner, 63, retired

Altitude: 2,250 m Hiking route: 10.2 km Swimming: permitted

4: Großer Seefeldsee lake

5: Weitenbergersee lake

Where the cowbells ring out

Where there is a rustic charm

“Whenever I’m craving a bit of peace and quiet, I hike to the large Großer Seefeldsee lake. The first part of the route from Meransen/Maranza through the Altfasstal valley is a very popular hiking trail. But as soon as you start walking further uphill at the head of the valley, you leave everything and everyone behind you, and all you need to focus on is the steep ascent to the lake. I love sitting amidst the craggy rocks on the shore listening to the rhythmic ringing of the cowbells. On the way back, I treat myself to a refreshing beer from the Pranterstadelhütte lodge. And I can’t resist the Kneipp hydrotherapy facilities along the Großbergbach stream, which do wonders for my tired feet.”

“The Weitenbergersee lake is my favourite secret spot. I love the rustic, unspoilt Pfunderer Tal valley, particularly early in the morning when there are very few people around. The best place to park is in Dun/ Dan, at the end of the valley. The route takes you past the Grindlbergsee lake and on to the Weitenbergersee lake. It is here that you really feel at one with nature and find what people often search for in vain: stillness and calm. It’s a challenging hike, but it’s worth it, especially if you stop to take a break on the Weitenbergeralm Alpine pasture on your descent. Here, you’ll even find a small, traditional dairy farm which makes its own mountain cheese, yogurt and butter.”

Judith Piazza, 31, snowboard instructor

Altitude: 2,271 m Hiking route: 15 km Swimming: not recommended

Anna Volgger, 64, hiking guide & forest bathing expert

Altitude: 2,479 m Hiking route: 17 km Swimming: not recommended

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The Perfect Snapshot Photo bloggers Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler share their tips on how to capture different moods and the light shining on the Dolomites

Deep-snow skiing on the Hinterberg slope in the Jochtal ski area, Instagram photo by Michael Grossrubatscher (@michael_n_granruaz)

The best reader photo With its boldly contrasting shades of blue and white, the photo perfectly captures a wonderful day of skiing. You can almost hear the sound of the powdery snow being sprayed up under the skis.

TIP #1 Take photos from behind This rather unique way of composing images makes viewers feel as if they are up close and personal to the landscape. The hiker’s position and line of vision automatically create more depth and three-dimensionality, transporting those left at home into the photo.

TIP #2 Keep your eyes peeled South Tyrol/Südtirol is renowned for its famous photo spots, such as the Seiser Alm Alpine pasture or the Pragser Wildsee lake. But there are also many lesser known sights which are just as picturesque to capture. One of these special places is Gernstein Castle, which stands proudly in a small side valley near Klausen/Chiusa. So keep your eyes peeled the next time you go on a hike and you might just discover something new.

www.roterrucksack.com

Send us your best shots!

TIP #3 Capture the mood It’s mesmerising how the light changes minute by minute as the sun rises and sets. You can use a weather app to keep track of the exact sunrise and sunset times in different locations. A tripod is a handy piece of equipment for preventing your photos from turning out blurry and unfocused. Don’t forget to look behind you, as here, too,

T H E L O C A L M AG A Z I N E

Judith Niederwanger and Alexander Pichler run a successful blog called “Roter Rucksack” (German for “red backpack”). Their Facebook page of the same name has almost 16,000 likes and they have racked up more than 11,000 followers on Instagram. In 2019, they released a German-language book showcasing the most beautiful tours and photo spots in South Tyrol. They also regularly publish calendars featuring stunning imagery.

3 the landscape is bound to be bathed in beautifully coloured light. The light cast on the Dolomites during sunset is particularly spectacular.

Post your pictures from Brixen/Bressanone, the Gitschberg Jochtal ski & holiday area, Klausen/Chiusa, Lüsen/Luson or Natz-Schabs/ Naz-Sciaves with the hashtag #cormagazine on Instagram or send them to info@cormagazine.com! We will select another reader’s photo to print in the next issue of the magazine.

www.skiweeks.it

Gitschberg Jochtal – Brixen

Ski week special 7=6 08.01.–29.01.2022 The exclusive promotional weeks of the ski areas Gitschberg Jochtal-Brixen in January. Take advantage of our special

MORE THAN 100 KM OF PISTES – ONE SINGLE SKI PASS

deals in all areas: accommodations, ski tickets, ski rental, ski lessons. Included services: - 7 nights for the price of 6 - 6-day ski ticket for the price of 5 days (discount valid from 09.01.2022) - Equipment rental and group ski lessons with the 6 for 5 formula

Firn, skiing & snow 7=6 12.03.–18.04.2022 Included services: 7 nights for the price of 6 6-day ski ticket for the price of 5 days (discount valid from 13.03.2022) Equipment rental and group ski lessons with the 6 for 5 formula The packages can only be booked at participating accommodation establishments. All information is provided without guarantee. Offer time frames are subject to change. All up-to-date information can be found on our website.

Foto: J. Eheim / Oehler

mybrixen.com

COR - The Local Magazine #3 (EN)

Articles inside

The Perfect Snapshot Three photography tips

What Does This Man Do for a Living? Out and about with ski guide Tiziano Stimpfl

A Beginner’s Guide to South Tyrol Part 3: For the love of food

Architecture! Time-honoured and modern –a selection of impressive buildings

Musician Meets Composer An interview with musical genius Hans Jocher and the keenly experimental Manuela Kerer

My Favourite... Mountain Lake Insider tips from the locals

Up and Away The powerful effect of a solitary hike

Winter in All Its Glory Ten tips for the winter months

Q&A with