RhB Contua Autumn/Winter 2013/14 by SÜSSKIND SGD

www.rhb.ch Rhaetian Railway Inc Bahnhofstrasse 25 CH-7002 Chur Tel +41 (0)81 288 65 65 Fax +41 (0)81 288 61 05 railservice@rhb.ch

Autumn / Winter 2013 / 14

Contura The magazine of the Rhaetian Railway

The RhB online News, competitions and discussion forums with us and other RhB fans. www.rhb.ch/facebook Exciting films and exclusive views behind the scenes. www.rhb.ch/youtube Pictures and impressions from our fascinating world of railway experiences. www.rhb.ch/flickr Selected stories, offers and excursion tips. www.rhb.ch/newsletter Tickets round the clock? Welcome to the online ticket office. www.rhb.ch/ticketshop

Customs

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By vocation

Glacier Express

A man with a plan: Multi-culti world of the timetabler the Glacier Express 23.08.13 17:51

Wild Card

A journey in the 19th century

Before we commence our wanderings through the hitherto untravelled valleys around the Bernina, it may be useful to gather together a few of the principal characteristics of a region at present but little known in England. Von Tschudi says, "Nowhere do we find more intricate heights, lovelier valleys, or more luxuriant vegetation", than in the Grisons. "It contains more than one hundred and fifty valleys, and must be held to surpass every other district in the exhibition of those wonderful contrasts of sternness and beauty in which Nature gives play to her caprices." To no part of the canton can this description be more truly applied than to the Ober-Engadine and its many lateral valleys, which spread their branches far into the mountain region round the Bernina, extending upwards until they meet the chilling embraces of the glacier, or are envelÂ oped in a mantle of snow. Nature is here seen in her most varied and attractive forms, â&#x20AC;&#x201C; sparkling, transparent lakes, enshrined in rich pastoral valleys, reflecting the wooded slopes around; or verdant alps, surmounted by giants of the Alpine world, in their wildest, most imposing, and most beautiful aspects. From: "A Summer Tour in the Grisons and Italian Valleys of the Bernina", Mrs. Henry Freshfield ÂŠ Longman, Green, Longman, and Roberts, London 1862 (available print on demand from Amazon through the British Library Historical Print Editions programme)

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Editorial

Traditionally at the forefront

For almost 125 years now, the Rhaetian Railway has been going strong. It's impossible to now imagine Graubünden or Switzerland without it – one of the world's foremost railways. However, the rapid progress made by the RhB, even in the 21st century, cannot be taken for granted. And it is not so easy to achieve as might be supposed. We Ivo Hutter are currently ordering traction units and commuter trains Head of Rolling that we will need in five to ten years and which will still Stock be operating in 40 years' time. It takes vision to predict how and how often people will be travelling by train that far ahead. Anyone without a century of experience will be lost, or consigned to the sidelines. I guarantee that you will be able to rely on an ultra-modern RhB now and in the future.

Stephanie Rielle La Bella Head of Human Resources

Everyone knows the RhB is an attractive employer in Graubünden, the third-largest in this mountainous canton. It focuses on the long-standing, but not the old fashioned. Around 1,400 employees keep our railway moving – and keep it young. At present, we are training 107 apprentices while also seeking to attract more women train drivers. Of course not all the company's talent works full-time: some pursue other careers, such as airline pilot or oenologist, as well as driving trains. They are all prepared to go that extra mile for the RhB – like veteran track worker Walter Gubser, whom we accompany in this edition of "Contura".

I wish you lots of fun on your literary journey with the RhB and its employees.

PS: Keep up to date with the exciting RhB newsletter – www.rhb.ch/newsletter subscribe today:

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Contents

Which way?

Customs Annual traditions of Graubünden

Tradition Bündner Röteli: a full-bodied juice

UNESCO World Heritage RhB Bernina: mountain of legends and passion

Next stop Engadin Skimarathon: rolling along!

Publishing details: © Copyright /Published by: Rhaetian Railway Inc, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 7002 Chur | Technical details: Rhaetian Railway | Concept / text: panta rhei pr gmbh | Graphics: Süsskind SGD Chur | Photos: Archive of the Rhaetian Railway, Archive of Graubünden Ferien, Y. Andrea, A. Badrutt, G. Brüngger, Foto Geiger, T. Keller, M. Kobald, G. Krischker, A. Mettler, Museum für Gestaltung Zürich, Poster Collection, © ZHdK, M. Schade, Sedrun Bergbahnen, Chr. Sonderegger, Tourist Board St. Moritz, S. Triacca | Printed in Switzerland, issue no. 3, 2013

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Contura is available online via www.rhb.ch/contura or as an app for your iPad.

16 Scena Once upon a time …

44 Famous names The locomotive: 'Bernina'

10 By vocation A man with a plan: the timetabler

45 We proudly present 'C 2012': the oldest RhB third-class carriage

14 C ustoms Annual traditions of Graubünden

46 N ext stop Engadin Skimarathon: rolling along!

20 Tradition Bündner Röteli: a full-bodied juice 24 W indow seat

50 From the workshop A local hero: the sledge maker from Sri Lanka

26 T he Albula Line The world’s most beautiful railway at night

56 R ail network Highlights of the Rhaetian Railway

32 UNESCO World Heritage RhB Bernina: mountain of legends and passion

Good to know 58 Green, red, orange: RhB signals and signs

36 G lacier Express Multi-culti world of the Glacier Express

60 Competition

41 D id you know? A world of figures 42 W hat do … … the PistenBully drivers in Sedrun do in summer?

61 For your diary Our events at a glance RhB to hand 62 Brochures and tourist maps 63 Railshop Souvenirs for all ages

Handy: RhB tourist maps and brochures to download. Webcode ▶ ▶ 2187

How does the webcode work? Enter the corresponding number into the 'webcode' field at www.rhb.ch to receive more information about the relevant offer.

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Scena

Once upon a time … Discover Graubünden: The Engadin Circular Tour through the Inn Valley. ▶ ▶ 1579

Poster from 1921: Zuoz – Switzerland – Engadin, design: Ernst Emil Schlatter

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Climb 1,000 metres in an hour: The Arosa Line takes you to the climatic spa. ▶ ▶ 552

Poster from 1937: Arosa, design: Hugo Laubi

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Fun on ice: With the RhB special trains to the championship games of HC Davos. ▶ ▶ 974

Poster from 1914: Winter in Davos, design: Burkhard Mangold

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History in St. Moritz: With the elegant 1930s Pullman Express from St. Moritz to Zermatt. ▶ ▶ 234

Poster from 1924: St. Moritz, design: Carl Moos

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By vocation

A man with a plan: the timetabler

Working for the RhB: Get your career on track – find out more at  89

A visionary with 35 years’ experience: Marco Margadant in front of "his" timetable in Chur

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Every minute counts: Head of Timetabling Margadant personally ensures punctuality – naturally with the legendary 'station clock' on his wrist.

You could call him the Head of the rolling timetable. Here at the Operations Centre in Landquart is where all the strands come together – and things can get pretty tricky here when the weather wreaks havoc with the points or power supply. Marco Margadant, RhB Head of Timetabling, makes split-second decisions to keep the trains running on time. Punctuality is his absolute top priority. Is that a spider’s web or maybe even a sewing pattern laid out on the table of Office 003 at the RhB’s administrative HQ? Both seem fairly appropriate in relation to the work of Marco Margadant – the company’s senior timetabler. Seated at his computer screen, he is currently pondering how the timetable for the year after next might look: "We are always ahead of time. We have to be, because partners such as SBB or PostBus, who guarantee feeder services and connections, also draw up their schedules eighteen months in advance." "We are always

ahead of time. We

Simulation with a mouse click With a few clicks he first drafts the graphic timetable, like our partners." based on a defined concept. A confusing jumble of lines Marco Margadant appears on the screen, the rail network so to speak; the first step in drawing up timetables is devoted to the route. "Although, to be precise: top priority always goes to what the customers want – provided it is economically viable. We have to ask ourselves: does it make sense to operate this line and can we generate sufficient capacity?" A new click, new colours: a locomotive and a train formation with carriages have been assigned to the line. Another click, again in a fresh colour: the train now has its very own driver and guards. The task may still involve manual labour, but not like in the old days when all the timetables were drawn by hand in pencil and had to be pinned onto the wall. Now, standard software takes care of everything. "If my PC crashes, all I can do is fetch the post. I’m useless without it." But if you think Margadant spends all his time in front of his PC, you’d be wrong: 50 per

have to be – just

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The devil is in the detail: line by line, level by level, Marco Margadant develops his network plan – until everything is just right.

cent of his working time is spent in coordination meetings – with colleagues from the Production side, or with members of the Human Resources department. Learning from scratch Margadant learned his craft from scratch. Initially he worked with the RhB from 1974 to 1978 as a mechanical draughtsman at the companyʼs works in Landquart. After training to become an engine driver in 1979, he drove trains across the entire network until 1990, including a year on the mountainous track from Chur to Arosa. "That was really interesting. Technically, as we were operating with a different voltage – 2,400 VDC. And in practical terms, as the special traction units had a tendency to malfunction and the track itself isn’t without challenges. In winter we often came across surprises: a fallen tree that cut overhead power lines or snow masses blocking the way." In the meantime Margadant knows almost every sleeper on the 384 kilometres of track. In 1990 he began training other engine drivers, in 1995 becoming head of this area. He has a passion for the 1,500 to 3,200 kW RhB machines. "Being a train driver is a kind of disease. And even as a timetabler, I still like to visit my colleagues on the front lines." Margadant, who has been Head of Production (or more properly: Network Planning and Control) since 2001, is convinced that "travelling the routes in person is the best way to identify the trouble spots in scheduling terms so that I can plan more realistically."

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Headache over six minutes It’s a matter of only a few minutes when it comes to Margadant’s highest maxim (alongside safety): punctuality, punctuality, punctuality. A target achieved in 96 per cent of cases, where RhB trains run within the permitted tolerance of five minutes. It becomes tricky when work on the line calls for slow speeds. That’s what eats up the most time. Together with infrastructure specialists, he must knowingly factor in delays months in advance to ensure his plan works out. The two "Travelling along interchange stations, Landquart and Chur, where pasthe routes in person sengers have to catch their SBB connections, are key. lets me identify Margadant allows for a buffer time of six per cent and a the trouble spots." changeover time of just six minutes. And every now and Marco Margadant again this otherwise calm man can lose his patience. "My job is actually a thankless task: I’m always having to tread on other people’s toes. But that cannot be avoided. The structure must stand – by whatever means necessary." And if the worst actually comes to the worst, Margadant recalls a tip he was given by a high-ranking police officer during a stint at the World Economic Forum in Davos: "Tomorrow is another day." As was the case in 1999, for example, the winter of avalanches where the timetablers didn’t know from one day to the next what was happening, or rather what was running. He takes a sporting view of special days Speaking of challenging moments: when does Marco Margadant really start firing on all cylinders? "When I can draw up my own timetable. For example, during the Swiss Alpine Marathon in Davos", is the answer. That’s when this visionary from Chur produces an interim timetable – with planned delays! "Leaving nothing to chance, of course, but following an exact special timetable of whose details customers are not – and don’t need to be – aware. The main thing is that we have the expected delays under control." Margadant loves having a role to play at major sporting events of this kind, where a large number of passengers require transport. It gives him the freedom to do as he likes, to his heart’s content.

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Customs

Annual traditions of Graub端nden

In Graub端nden, traditions like the romantic 'Schlitteda' shown here are very important

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In Graubünden, ancient customs and traditions are given pride of place. Every year, centuries-old traditions are observed in the local communities and villages.

RhB RailHit: One person pays, the other travels free.  2308

January 'Twelfth Night and Carol Singers' In Catholic regions, children dressed as the Three Kings go from house to house on Twelfth Night. They sing old and new Epiphany carols and religious airs from the 17th century. Often, the kings are accompanied by someone carrying a star, as well as by servants or soldiers. Dressed in colourful costumes with glittering crowns, they make their way through the villages, collecting money for child relief organisations – as well as for sweets!

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February 'Schlitteda Engadinaisa' Every year, on a Sunday in January or February, the inhabitants of Oberengadin celebrate the 'Schlitteda Engadinaisa'. The exact date of this village festival is decided by the 'Guiventüna', a committee of young men. On this occasion, the villagers – dressed in their traditional red-and-black Engadin costumes – embark on a two-hour ride through the snow-clad countryside in festively decorated horse-drawn sleighs. In the old days, only unmarried couples took part in the 'Schlitteda'. A young man would formally invite his girl to accompany him on the sleigh ride. Over the years, this custom has turned into a village festival for both singles and married couples alike. The 'Schlitteda Ball' brings the festivities to a fitting end.

February / March 'Scheibenschlagen' On the first Sunday of Lent, the young men of Untervaz leave home at dusk and make their way up to a place overlooking the village, each carrying a burning torch, a long hazel stick and discs made of beechwood. At the agreed spot, each of them places his disc on the end of the stick, lights it with the torch until it glows red-hot and then propels it from the starting ramp into the valley below. As each disc is thrown, the young man shouts out a dedication to a special girl or unmarried woman. Afterwards, there is a torchlight procession accompanied by a brass band. Back in the village, the young men visit the girls, who serve them food and drink. This ancient tradition is also celebrated in similar fashion in the Surselva region.

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March 'Chalandamarz' On 1 March, children wearing peasant smocks and pointed red caps make their way through the village singing songs, ringing cowbells and cracking whips. The din is supposed to drive away the winter. The tradition of 'Chalandamarz' is beautifully described in the famous Swiss children’s book 'Schellenursli' ('A Bell for Ursli'). This custom exists in the valleys of Engadin, Müstair, Bergell, Puschlav, Misox, Oberhalbstein and Albula, although it may vary from village to village. In Scuol, a whip-cracking contest is held. In Ftan, the 'Chalandamarz' resembles a carnival procession – young men dress up and torment the girls with inflated pigs’ bladders. In Poschiavo and Misox a snowman is burned as a symbol of winter.

April 'Hürnä' After the snows have melted, the men and boys from Furna meet on two or three Sundays to play 'Hürnä', a simpler version of the Swiss sport of 'Hornussen'. 'Hürnä' is only played in this village in Prättigau. The wooden starting block is set up at the bottom of the slope. The target area lies about 20 metres higher up. Players have to propel the 'Huri' (a wooden disc rather like the puck used in ice hockey) from the starting block into the target area, using a two-metre-long hazel stick. The defending team tries to stop the Huri in mid air with shovel-like catching boards. Every Huri reaching the target area without being caught scores a point. If the Huri hits a member of the catching team, the throwing team scores two points.

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May 'Maiensässfahrt' For nearly 160 years – since 1854 – schoolchildren in Chur have made an annual trip to the alpine pastures, the 'Maiensässfahrt', on a sunny day in May. At seven in the morning about 3,000 schoolchildren and their teachers leave the town through its upper gateway and proceed to the surrounding alpine pastures, where they spend the day playing and enjoying a barbecue. In the evening, the townsfolk line up to welcome the children back. This is followed by a procession to the Quaderwiese. After the official speeches everyone sings traditional songs to mark the occasion. The highlight of the day is when one of the teachers calls out to the children: "… there will be no school tomorrow!"

The Alpine town: Chur offers both mountain air and city life.  2203

May / June 'Kränzli and Tschäppel' Every year on Ascension Day, mothers and grandmothers in Prättigau pick gentians, forget-me-nots, buttercups, daisies and other spring flowers growing in this region. The flowers are intricately woven into garlands for their daughters and granddaughters. The boys receive sprays of flowers, known as 'Tschäppel', which they affix to their lapels. Thus adorned and dressed in either traditional costume or their Sunday best, the villagers make their way to the church, where a special service is held. In Luzein and Pany, the children have the honour of being driven to the church by pony cart. Each village celebrates Ascension Day a little differently, and there is often a festive procession before or after the church service.

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November 'Kastanien-Klopfen' The ancient tradition of 'Kastanien-KloÂ pfen' (chestnut tapping) is encountered only in Bergell. In this region the chestnuts are dried for five to six weeks in special huts ('Cascine'). During the merry festivities in November the inhabitants of Bergell 'tap' the chestnuts to separate the fruit from the shell. In most of Italian-speaking Switzerland and the Bergell region of GraubĂźnden, chestnuts were a staple food of the population for hundreds of years. In the old days, it also used to be considered very important to store the chestnuts correctly in purpose-built outhouses. To this day, the people of Bergell celebrate the chestnut festival every autumn in honour of 'their' chestnut.

December 'Barchinas' In Scuol, the villagers celebrate the end of the year on 31 December by making little candlelit boats or 'Barchinas', as they are called in the Vallader dialect of Romansh. This festival of lights is of pagan origin. On New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve, the children fill little boats made from walnut shells or bark with liquid wax and provide them with a wick. Then they light them and float them on the village fountain in the old part of Scuol. The significance of this festival is the celebration of the winter solstice on 21 or 22 December, but it now takes place a few days later to make room for the Christian festival of Christmas. The floating candlelit boats serve to symbolise the victory of light over the darkness of night.

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Tradition

Bündner Röteli: a full-bodied juice

Balance is the name of the game, says Rico Kindschi, Producer of Kindschi Bündner Röteli

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Bündner 'Zwipf': The RhB 'Marenda' (snack) box is filled with Bündner specialities – including a Röteli from Kindschi.  33

No need to be ashamed if you’ve not (yet) heard of Bündner Röteli! But we can promise you that once you have tasted this spicy, dark red traditional drink, you will love it. It may put you in holiday mood - or make you feel homesick. People who are on their way to the Landwasser Valley and Davos often stop off in Schiers for a glass of Röteli produced by Kindschi Söhne AG. "My grandfather was a charmer. He went from one farm to the next, wooing all the farm girls. Surreptitiously, he managed to elicit each girl’s secret recipe. And that’s how we created our own secret recipe for Bündner Röteli", says Rico Kindschi with a straight face that reveals the dry humour typical of mountain people. This wine merchant and producer of schnapps, who lives in Davos, is something of a sly old dog when it comes to the ingredients of this fine product, which has recently also found its way into the supermarkets. For centuries, people from Graubünden have enthused about this cherry liqueur, which is actually made from dried cherries. Who invented it? The Walser folk Rötelis used to be two a penny. Or, in the words of Rico Kindschi, "They say there are as many Röteli recipes as there are mothers-in-law." Every farmer’s wife in and around Davos, in Prättigau, Domleschg and even the cantonal capital of Chur would prepare her own Röteli. Wherever people drank Röteli, there would be a Walser settlement nearby. This tribe of mountain dwellers, who migrated long ago from the Valais over the passes into Graubünden, invented this amazing drink which later became wide-

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To make good Röteli you need pailfuls of highquality cherries and spices.

spread. Recipes were handed down from family to family and from generation to generation. Basically, Röteli is no more than water, schnapps, dried cherries and seasoning. This fine macerate used to be drunk on New Year’s Eve. "In the old days, the married men would see the old year out. And the bachelors would see the new year in. They would go from one farmhouse to another to wish the occupants good luck and prosperity in the new year, particularly in their stables. Or, more precisely, it gave them a chance to woo the farmers’ daughters. As a reward, they received a sip of Röteli. One sip followed another – as did the (more or less virtuous) wishes they expressed", says Kindschi with a grin. He grew up in Davos Dorf, where Kindschi Söhne AG operated their distillery until 2012. He too used to visit the farmhouses in this manner. He says it was a novel way of dating, long before Internet and Facebook. Thanks to this magic potion, many a friendship or life-partnership was formed. The best Röteli is well-balanced "Good Röteli should release a variety of flavour notes onto the palate. No individual spice should predominate. Balance is the name of the game." It is not without a touch of pride that he mentions the 100,000 litres that he produces every year. And his production is on the increase. Davos is clearly the leading centre of production of this liqueur. So, how do you make good Röteli? First, he needs good-quality dried cherries. I beg your pardon? Cherries in Davos, 1,500 metres above sea level, far above the level for fruit-growing? A long time ago, dried cherries (which could be kept a long time) would be transported here on pack animals from Italy and the Orient. Later on, the cherries came from Switzerland. Nowadays, however, he has to order 3-4 tons of cherries from Turkey, because Swiss producers can no longer guarantee that they can deliver sufficient quantities. Each steel tank contains 240 kilograms of cherries and 16 kilograms of spices including cinnamon, vanilla, cloves and cardamom - the other ingredients remain a secret. Then he adds 2,000 litres of fruit schnapps (mostly from apples or pears) with an alcohol content of 40 per cent. The cherries are left to ferment for five months. From time to time, they will be stirred. "The main thing is that the schnapps should release as many flavouring

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substances as possible, including aromas from the cherry stones, which lend the Röteli its bitter almond flavour." Then the macerated cherries and spices are distilled again. This refined cherry nectar is then diluted with water, brought to the desired 22 per cent volume, filtered, filled and labelled. The Bündner Röteli, with its well-known label on the packaging, is then sent out into the big wide world, for example to Bangkok, where a customer sells typical Swiss specialities, or to the World Economic Forum, where the Röteli is served to participants in glass 'Alp horns'. People know and love it "You cannot imagine the emotions that our Röteli arouses. For example, there is the ibex on the new label", says Kindschi. When he and his advertising agent decided to change the picture on the label, some customers were over the moon because now they felt closer to the mountains of Graubünden, while others supposedly detected a change in taste, which was definitely not the case because the recipe has remained unchanged - for generations. Rico Kind"The name comes from schi has worked in the distillery since he was a child. 'rote Kirschen', which He learned the art of distilling schnapps at the Inmeans red cherries." stitute for Fermentation and Biotechnology in BerRico Kindschi lin. After that, he worked as a distiller at Volg before he and his brother took over the family business. "We don’t yet know whether a sixth generation will be able to carry on the family business. Although we hope so. This is why we continue to invest in the business", says Kindschi. Like their ancestors with their pack animals, the Kindschis moved down towards the valley in 2012. They relocated to Schiers (also a former Walser settlement). There, you will find his state-ofthe-art distillery and sales centre, right opposite the station. And Rico Kindschi commutes to his new workplace on the RhB.

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Window seat One-franc special: Free pass to skiing fun in selected winter sports regions! ▶ ▶ 222

Shep Sonstegard (23) from Minnesota in the US is en route from Bergün to Basel.

"I’ve already covered the entire Rhaetian Railway network on my travels." Hi, do you mind if we sit next to you for a moment? Excuse me? I don’t understand.

a really beautiful country – and the best way to enjoy the stunning views is on board a train.

Oh, you speak English. Where are you from? From Minnesota, USA. That’s near the border with Canada.

What other places in Switzerland have you visited? I’ve also been to St. Moritz, Davos and Laax – that is definitely where I had the biggest fun snowboarding!

And what brings you to Bergün, on board this RhB train? I’m currently on a two-month trip around Switzerland and do all my travelling by train. My father and brother are here too, in Basel – that’s where I’m heading for right now, via Chur. What did you do in Bergün? I went snowboarding today. But I also came here once for the night sledging, that was really awesome! Switzerland is

So this isnʼt the first time you have travelled with the RhB … As a matter of fact, it isn’t. I think I’ve already covered the entire RhB network on my travels. And what did you like best about your trips with the RhB? That’s easy: the ride on the Glacier Express was fantastic! I would recommend it to every tourist who comes here.

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Anette Joos with her husband Ingo Geiselhart and two sons Lukas and Fabian.

"That the RhB gets you to the top of the sledge run from Bergün to Preda is really practical." Grüezi! You are quite obviously kitted out to go sledging. Are you heading back up to Preda? Yes, we’re just waiting for the train up to Preda. But our sledging adventure is over for the day. And why are you making the trip back up to Preda again? We’re staying there overnight. We’ve been here a few times before for sledging – this is our … fourth time. Then you obviously like the sledge run from Preda to Bergün … And how! It’s extra long – that’s really great. And the fact that we can travel back up to Preda as often as we like with the RhB one-day travelpass makes it particularly practical. But we don’t just come here for the toboggan run.

We also like the whole area and all the small villages. Do you understand the Swiss German dialect that is spoken in the villages here in Graubünden? Our town, Weingarten in the south-west of Germany, is just over half an hour’s drive from Lake Constance and the Swiss border. And, as we mentioned, we come here a lot. Swiss German isn’t a problem for us – at least we can understand it … So have you already travelled with the RhB many times on your previous visits here? We travel by train a lot – even back home in Germany. On train trips with the Rhaetian Railway, however, the landscape is especially beautiful.

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The Albula Line

The world’s most beautiful railway at night

Railway adventures: The RhB offers original rail trips for railway fans and nostalgists.  233

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Night shift on the RhB tracks - a unique atmosphere

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The section of the RhB line between Bergün and Preda is impressive enough by day. After ten at night it is even more exciting. "Contura" looks over the shoulder of track worker Walter Gubser as he works on the tracks of the RhB. Why do all small boys want to be train drivers when they grow up? The real heroes are not the engine drivers, but the men in orange overalls. Walter Gubser is one of them. On this night in spring, he guides us over the Albula Line of the Rhaetian Railway. Countless stars shine on the tracks, viaducts and helical tunnels; every now and then the moonlight is reflected in the eyes of a grazing stag. Shortly after 10 pm the last train from Bergün rumbles through on its way to Preda. Then the track is ours and we do something not normally allowed. We walk between the rails and over bridges while Gubser gives us an insight into the workings of this railway, which has UNESCO World Heritage status. Hard work - yesterday and today The railway worker knows every inch of the track, every sleeper and probably every stone as well. No, that’s not an exaggeration: "In the old days, our signature tune was tic, tic, tic, tic", he says – the noise made by each team of four as they packed the crushed stones under the sleepers with their pickaxes. "And woe betide anyone who got out of rhythm", says Gubser. In time, the pickaxe crews became track assemblers and, later still, track workers. Nowadays a tamping machine does the work of the pickaxe crews. Nevertheless, the job is still pretty tough. Gubser, who sometimes describes himself as a federally certified track ballast tamping officer, works on the railway at night for 10-15 weeks a year. With so many trains using the track, there is no other solution. No matter whether it’s 25 degrees below freezing, snowing or "merely" raining: damaged rails must be replaced, fallen rocks removed and points

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UNESCO World Heritage RhB: The Albula Line – a masterpiece of railway engineering.  2180

Even at night one must be alert: working on the track is not without danger.

freed of ice and snow. "It starts out all right, but after about two in the morning time seems to fly too fast. You pickaxe, shovel away, check the sleeper fastenings, look at the time and try to get a move on, then the first train is already due." Any breaks? Mostly standing when working at night. And what about food? You bring your own. Snow against ice The sleepers are placed 60 centimetres apart and, as he proceeds from one to the next, Gubser shows us the ballast shoulders – perfectly symmetrical banks of stones along each side of the track. They look like works of art but they are not there for decorative purposes: "The shoulders are essential for the stabilisation of the track and we have to check them out constantly." When we arrive at the Zuondra Tunnel we cannot believe our eyes: Although it’s already springtime, the ground inside the tunnel is covered in snow. "We shovel the snow in there as a protection against the cold", explains Gubser. "Otherwise the water in the tunnel drainage system will freeze." Several years ago, some bright spark decided to save time by dispensing with the snow-shovelling: "The rails kept getting encrusted with ice and we had to hack at it with our pickaxes like madmen. For days on end."

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Walter Gubser in his element: at night on an inspection trip along 'his' track.

At the Rugnux Tunnel a different solution has been found: between trains the tunnel is closed by gates. A dream job â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even if nobody applauds you Gubser cannot imagine a better job than this. Not even when he has to remove the remains of a stag that has been hit by a train. Not even when he is accomplishing a dangerous job close to the power lines on a steep slope. Not even when he had to fear for his life: once, he was driving a draisine (a light auxiliary rail vehicle) through a tunnel at night when he suddenly saw a pair of headlights "We want our trains coming towards him. But the headlights belonged to a and passengers to car and - for a seemingly endless moment - they were travel safely on the shining into the tunnel from a nearby bend in the road. RhB network." Scary incidents may come and go, but the pleasure in his work remains. "It is our job to keep the railway line Walter Gubser and the engineering structures in perfect working order, maintain the track and keep it open, as well as looking after the area surrounding the track and a host of other tasks - and we do it all against this fantastic backdrop", says Walter Gubser. "Naturally, we are proud when a train with its passengers safely passes along a stretch of track that we have just finished reconstructing or repairing." The next morning we are on the platform at the station in BergĂźn. Our train pulls into the station and several tourists wave to the driver. Further away is a group of men dressed in orange overalls. Nobody waves to them. Text: Franz Bamert

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The steam-powered monster

Snow cannot always be used to insulate the rails - sometimes it needs to be removed from the track: in winter, it takes a crew of up to ten to pilot the steam-powered snowplough Xrot 9213 through walls of snow which may be several metres high along the Bernina Line. The RhB possesses the world’s only steam-powered snowplough still in operation. This 60-ton monster is over a hundred years old. On the Bernina Line the three-ton rotating blade of the Xrot 9213 has no problem in casting the snow aside. In an emergency this ancient snowplough can even force its way through places where there has been an avalanche and free the track of rocks or whole trees. However, as far as the employees are concerned, working inside the monster is not a piece of cake: the driver and the stoker are confronted by smoke and steam everywhere, poor visibility, unbearable heat and the need to keep shovelling coal. That’s an experience not to be missed! And with the RhB it all comes true. For vintage railway enthusiasts, a trip on this unique piece of railway history dating from 1910 is a must: here, you can experience the battle against the snow close up. A member of staff will explain the technical processes - from lubrication to firing up. And the trip is worthwhile in more ways than one: this stretch of railway has UNESCO World Heritage status. The trip with the snowplough train takes you from Morteratsch to Alp Grüm or from Cavaglia to Ospizio Bernina. At the Ristorante Albergo Alp Grüm you can enjoy Engadin specialities: the train and its passengers One of the smaller have earned a break. wonders of the world: Experience a snowplough trip with the Bernina monster.  988

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UNESCO World Heritage RhB

Bernina: mountain of legends and passion

Bernina Express: The panoramic journey from glaciers to palms is a spectacular experience. ď&#x20AC;´ ď&#x20AC;´33

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Bernina: one mountain, a thousand tales

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The Bernina is Gian Luck’s greatest love. In the truest sense of the word: the guide from Pontresina knows the mountain like the back of his hand. His enthusiasm is infectious. Patrick Burger from the Bellaluna cultural centre in Filisur prefers to admire the 4,049-metre giant from a distance. And recommends it to his sporting guests. Two stories. One mountain. "When I finished school it was already clear to me that I wanted to earn a living outdoors." An aim that Gian Luck has clearly achieved. The 31-year-old native of Haldenstein spends his life in the mountains: as a mountain guide in Pontresina, as managing director of the climbing school in Pontresina – and as president of the Graubünden mountain guide association. And why did he decide to settle down here in the Engadin? "I practically work in my own front Gian Luck, passionate yard. The Bernina range is where I feel most at home." mountain guide from But it was also love for his girlfriend that drew him Pontresina. towards Pontresina. A move he doesn’t regret – on the contrary. Gian Luck spends around 200 days a year showing visitors Piz Bernina and Piz Palü. "It’s such a great feeling to see people’s eyes light up and feel their joy. I get to share an outdoor experience with them that they will never forget. And that makes me happy." Gian Luck’s eyes also light up as he talks, waxing lyrical on the subject: "The Bianco ridge is also called the ‘stairway to heaven’. You stand beneath the long white ridge that stretches out endlessly towards the blue of the sky. And from the summit you can see the Alps in all their glory: from the Ortler to Monte Rosa and all the Bernese peaks." The people he guides are looking for an unforgettable mountain experience. Every participant requires prior knowledge of alpinism and must already have completed a number of demanding tours. Because the Bernina is by no means an easy climb. The Pontresina mountain guides generally

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offer a 2.5 day tour, including an overnight stay. On the first day, you walk about eight to nine hours. From July to September is the best time. Gian Luck: "Sunrise on the Bernina is absolutely fantastic", he enthuses. And where passion comes into play, myths and tales are never far away. Gian Luck also has a story to tell: "At the end of the 1970s, there was a cat living on the Diavolezza, known as the Palü cat. It sometimes accompanied tourers up the Piz Palü. It followed in their tracks right to the top. One day when two climbers were on their way up the Bumillerpfeiler, the weather turned bad. Arriving at the summit, they decided to pitch camp there. They awoke in the middle of the night, hearing miaows, and were convinced they were going mad or about to die. Imagine their relief when they opened their bivouac sacks to discover that the Palü cat had sought refuge there." Of course, Gian Luck is happiest when he’s up on top. But he also finds the Bernina "otherwise" beautiful. For example, when viewed from the train on a trip through the UNESCO World Heritage site. "Anyone who has ever travelled on the Bernina Express and enjoyed the splendid views of the Bernina range is unlikely to forget this wonderful landscape. Alpine lakes of every colour and the lasting force of water, which has formed our valleys. And here and there an animal, timidly surveying its surroundings. What could be more beautiful?" asks Gian Luck, a passionate mountain guide who takes a philosophical view of a region that means ev erything to him. Text: Angela Cadruvi

Where Gian Luck is in his element: guiding climbers on the Bianco ridge of the Bernina. www.bergsteiger-pontresina.ch

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Bellaluna – a magical place

Witches, ore and tales of murder: the stories surrounding the Bellaluna restaurant in Filisur always raise a shudder. And make listeners curious to see the place for themselves. We talk to owner Patrick Burger. Why is the building called Bellaluna? There are a number of different stories. Miners are said to have given the house its name one drunken full moon night. Other sources claim it is derived from 'Bal a l’üna', a dance at one in the morning. Our forest clearing is reputed to be one of the most famous spots for witches in all Graubünden. This is where they met to dance by the light of the full By the light of the full moon: The mystical trip from St. Moritz to Alp Grüm is a special experience.  1745

moon, before taking off on their broomsticks for Holland. Paula Roth, Bellaluna's former owner, was murdered in 1988. How does that make you feel? It's part of our everyday lives. There is a room dedicated to her in Bellaluna and a small Paula Roth museum. There's also an interesting film about her and many books. Have you ever seen a ghost here? There are pictures by Paula Roth in the museum. One summer they fell off the wall for no apparent reason. And a cassette recorder once turned itself on without anyone pressing the play button. Aren't you scared living here? No – we have a lot of respect for Paula. There are always people dropping by who knew her. She must have been a great woman! What is it that makes this place and this area so magical? At night you can reach for the stars. The Albula babbles – at times loudly, and at times softly, quietly and meditatively. The natural world here is unique.

A mixture of curiosity, nature and a desire for culture and good food attracts guests to Bellaluna. www.bellaluna.ch

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Glacier Express

Multi-culti world of the Glacier Express

It’s always worth a trip: Just as delightful in winter as in summer – a trip on board the Glacier Express.  34

Loving the food and the views: Namrata Surendar and Rahul Prasad on the Glacier Express

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It’s among the world’s top ten rail journeys: the Glacier Express. The RhB’s flagship line attracts people from every corner of the globe. Every day a new mix of nations creates a microcosmic world on board: three encounters as this cultural melting pot makes its way from St. Moritz to Zermatt. Coach 44, seats 11 and 12, 2nd class: Indian food with Namrata Surendar und Rahul Prasad They have only been in Switzerland for ten days. Both come from Bangalore in the south of India. And they are now living in Passug, just above Chur. How on earth did they end up here in this Swiss holiday region? The answer is tourism. The budding professionals are pursuing postgraduate studies at the Swiss School of Tourism and Hospitality. And the Glacier Express marks their inaugural visit. Their first impression? "Unbelievable. I can’t get enough of the views", she says. He casts a professional eye: "This is actually a hotel on wheels. Except that you can’t stay here overnight, sadly. And the train does sway from side to side a bit – the waiting staff have to be really careful not to spill anything." Of course, the two of them have seen the Swiss mountains and trains in Bollywood films – many times. But he didn’t expect the natural landscape to exude such a sense of tranquillity. This breathtaking experience is perfect for Indian visitors, she adds. Apropos: the two hotel professionals have preordered Indian meals. Namrata is enjoying the vegetarian jalfrezi dish. She doesn’t eat meat, owing to her religious beliefs. Rahul has chosen the chicken masala. But first, they dutifully consume the salad. Something they would never eat at home – it’s unusual in India. The yoghurt dressing tastes just fine. They go without bread: "We’re not used to dark bread. We eat pitta bread, roti prata or naan, usually together with the main course and rice – all with our hands", Namrata explains. Both agree that the main courses taste authentic. They could be a little bit spicier, though. But the Europeans are cautious in that respect. "Maybe pickles would be a good idea, so people

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could decide the hotness of the meal for themselves", Rahul suggests. The rice meets with approval: "A few candied fruits, roasted cashew nuts and mustard seeds or a couple of deep-fried curry leaves would make it that bit more Indian." And she adds: "I would maybe replace the beef with lamb, because cows are sacred in India." They are both clear about dessert: Swiss chocolate, of course! "It’s perfect for this train, which represents the best of Switzerland in concentrated form." Coach 44, seats 45 and 46, 2nd class: Celebrating with Renate and Friedrich Schliephake "We wanted to treat ourselves to something out of the ordinary for our silver wedding anniversary. St. Moritz, Zermatt plus the Glacier Express in four days seemed just the thing, especially when you get a good package deal by booking well in advance", say Renate and Friedrich Schliephake from near Goslar in Germany, where they normally travel on the Brocken railway – sometimes even by steam train. The train winds its way through the autumnal Rhine Gorge, Switzerland’s very own 'Grand Canyon'. The Schliephakes admire the view in silence. "Fantastic. I never imagined it would be so impressive", she says. He agrees: "It looked really spectacular on TV – you know, the show on which the singer Leonard travels around. He’s Swiss, isn’t he? But … wow!" They watched the travelogue twice before finally embarking on their own trip. One that is now exceeding all their expectations. They display not a trace of boredom. "Everyone is so nice and friendly, eager to help." The dish of the day is served: goulash, rice and vegetables. They reserved their seats in advance, but not the meal. They wanted that to be a surprise. They appear to be enjoying it, eating in silence as they listen to the information through their earphones. If only the little earbuds didn’t keep falling out.

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Souvenir photo in front of the Glacier Express – the train that embodies the best of Switzer land in concentrated form.

They have to laugh. "How do those Koreans over there manage it? They seem to be able to get them to stay in. Maybe our ears are just too big or we’re too clumsy. The system itself is perfect, very discreet, it doesn’t disturb anyone." And it’s already time for dessert: tiramisu. Grinning, Renate Schliephake pushes her plate over to her husband’s side of the table. He tucks in, the two portions disappear in record time. Did it taste good? "Can’t you tell? I’m surprised you even need to ask! I would have preferred potatoes rather than rice with my main course. But that’s a matter of taste", he says. Apart from that, he is totally satisfied. They will come again. And go on the Bernina Express next time. They have bought a souvenir DVD. "Seventy minutes of the Glacier Express. Instead of taking thousands of photos, we would rather show our friends back home these professional images. Rest assured: we are just the first of many visitors to come."

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Everything is taken care of on the Glacier Express: great views and fine catering.

Coach 45, seats 43 and 44, 1st class: The view from Japan with Shoichi Tamura and Satuki Hirata A first-class carriage, full of Japanese tourists. A mixed bunch of people on a special excursion. All equipped with at least one camera. The sound of nonstop clicking. And laughter. For just as popular as photos of the landscape are snapshots taken with two or three friends on the train. We are now on the stretch of track between Chur and Disentis, where everything is high speed. The three-course meal is served up with military precision. Salad, followed by rice and fish, specially prepared for the group. Dessert is standard: tiramisu. "My visitors love sweet things – especially Swiss chocolate", the tour guide explains. Everyone eats quickly. After all, they don’t want to miss anything. The panoramic view from the outsize windows is superlative – everyone is agreed on that. And the windows in the roof of the coach top it all off – they’ve never seen anything like it. You won’t find anything quite so spectacular in Japan. Maybe the Odoriko train on the Ito line, someone suggests, the express train between Tokyo and Shimoda. It also has "nice views". But the Glacier Express is unbeatable. "Only the Hiram Bingham from Cusco to Machu Picchu is comparable. That’s an amazing line, also with valleys, ravines and water everywhere", comments Shoichi Tamura from Tokyo. He travelled on the classic train in the Andes with his wife. Today they are accompanied by a friend. Have they bought anything yet? "Too expensive", he groans. And for fun takes out his wallet: "EmpThe slowest express ty, you know." The Japanese are a little tired of train in the world shopping, the tour guide explains. If they buy The eight-hour journey is unforgettable – offering highlights anything at all, they tend to splash out on luxfrom start to finish. St. Moritz, ury items. "In a few minutes we will be arrivplayground of the rich and ing in Andermatt", the loudspeakers announce, famous, the alpine air of Davos, sparking a flurry of activity. Headgear is quickly and Zermatt with the famous Matterhorn. donned, warm jackets buttoned up. Ready for the rest of the journey to Visp by motor coach. In winter, St. Moritz to Zermatt from CHF 128.50 incl. 3-course Faster than on board the slowest express train meal served at your seat in the world. www.rhb.ch/glacierexpress

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Did you know?

A world of figures Around 1,400 people work for the Rhaetian Railway in more than 200 different occupations: from railway track workers on the Bernina Line (or 'navvies' as they used to be known) to train guards on the slowest express train in the world to IT specialists. Alongside Swiss citizens, the RhB employs people from Albania, Austria, Croatia, Germany, Italy, Macedonia, Morocco, Nigeria, Portugal and Serbia – a veritable potpourri from 11 countries around the world. The average age is 45.8 years old – ranging from the 107 apprentices and trainees to the 12 pensioners who support the RhB as tour guides, for example. On the subject of helping out: in 2003, the umbrella association 'historic RhB' was founded for the preservation, restoration and maintenance, public display and operation of the RhB’s historic rolling stock. The umbrella organisation comprises six member associations – devoted to various aspects of railway history ranging from saloon cars to steam engines, narrow gauge and model railways to tourism – as well as the 'Bahnmuseum Albula Bergün' foundation. Its catalogue of the historic rolling stock currently includes 52 objects that it aims to preserve for future generations. In 2014, the RhB will celebrate its 125th anniversary: during all these years, 241 locomotives and trains have been travelling on the rail network, including 47 different types of engine – not counting service vehicles.

Keeping the RhB tracks in top condition: the 'navvies', or railway maintenance workers

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What do ...

... the PistenBully drivers in Sedrun do in summer?

Their job is to tame the snow – that force of nature – in a landscape of extremes where temperatures can fall as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius. The drivers of the snow groomers in the Sedrun Oberalp ski resort brave the frosty conditions from early December to just after Easter. But what happens when the snow is gone? 33-year-old Armin Manetsch is actually a trained mechanic, who has taken over the running of his parents’ farm, where he is actively involved – as long as there is no snow. For Manetsch’s true passion is driving ski slope preparation vehicles. "We PistenBully drivers mostly have seasonal jobs that require manual dexterity – this is something we all have in common", the farmer says. 'Snow grooming', or 'piste bashing' as it is known in the trade, is considered an ideal way for farmers, joiners, lorry drivers, construction and forestry workers in the mountain regions to make money on the side. "You really have to be mad about big machines to do this job", states Manetsch, who dreamed about driving a snow groomer since he was a boy. "As a mechanic, I am naturally fascinated with the technol-

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Snowshoe tours: The GPS route finder guides on the best tours along the RhB network.  1756 Operating heavy snow grooming vehicles requires a great deal of finesse.

ogy behind these gigantic machines." Viewed from this angle, there are certainly parallels to be found between his two jobs: large vehicles are a part of his everyday work in both, whether a tractor or a snow groomer. Waiting until nature is ready In farming and snow grooming alike, it is nature that determines the work rhythm: in good weather, the PistenBully vehicles swarm out onto the slopes as early as 5:00 pm, only returning well after midnight. If snow is falling, the drivers start work at four in the morning. They then groom the snow until just before nine o’clock, only stopping when the first skiers hit the well-prepared slopes. "As a PistenBully driver, you need to be flexible", explains Armin Manetsch, who first ventured behind the wheel of one of these monsters at the age of 20. "The length of a shift varies. In exceptional cases, you can work up to 13 or 14 hours a day – on a nice day following heavy snowfall, for example." Patience with nature is also required when there is a danger of avalanche: at times like these, the drivers sometimes have to stay on the mountain for four or five days as it would be too dangerous for them to drive back. Luckily, there are enough restaurants in the ski resorts where they can stay overnight. And where do the difficulties lie in working with slope preparation vehicles? "Fresh snow makes it difficult to climb the steep slopes. But the biggest challenge is the weather: fog and snowstorms make the landmarks and contours disappear. The only thing you can do then is wait until visibility improves." Ultimately, the slopes should appear smoother than smooth. No easy task: "The tracks left by the snow groomers are four metres wide – to get these narrowly aligned without any unevenness is a true art. It requires a lot of finesse to operate one of these machines", explains Manetsch, for whom piste bashing is more of a hobby than an occupation. Armin Manetsch (33): Does Armin Manetsch also flit across his beautifully prepared farmer in summer, slopes on skis? "I ski, but not every day because I’ve already proud PistenBully driver in winter. spent too much time out there - in my PistenBully."

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Famous names

The locomotive 'Bernina'

On 7 March 2012, the 'Bernina' was sent into well-earned retirement. However, that doesn't necessarily mean a quiet life for this locomotive, which was constructed in 1947. On the contrary, the "old lady" is spending her retirement at the Swiss Museum of Transport in Lucerne. A fitting final assignment for a locomotive that can look back on an exciting life. The Rhaetian Railway loaned the 'Bernina' to the Transport Museum for five years in 2012. However, this is nothing compared with the 66 years that the locomotive has already clocked up. During her career, the 'Bernina' covered a total distance of over six million kilometres â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with 1,600 horsepower and a weight of 47 tons. The locomotive was not the only one of its kind: between 1947 and 1953 the RhB purchased ten type Ge 4/4 l locomotives bearing the serial numbers 601 to 610. Classic locomotives on the RhB network For several decades, the 'Bernina' and her sisters dominated the scene, supplementing the fleet of engines of the RhB, which until then had been largely comprised of the legendary 'Crocodiles' dating from the 1920s. The Ge 4/4 I No. 602 'Bernina' will be on display at the Transport Museum until 2017. Her sister 'Badus' (serial number 603) has been sent even further afield and is now exhibited at the Railway Park Augsburg in Germany. Still in service are the 'Silvretta' (605) and the 'Viamala' (610). In 2013, these veterans continue to operate on the railway network of the Swiss canton of GraubĂźnden.

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We proudly present

'C 2012': the oldest RhB third-class carriage

In 1889 it was still called 'C 32', in 1911 it was known as 'C 2012' and in 1940 'X 9034'. But during its long years of service, the historical third-class carriage experienced much more than a few renumberings. In 1994 the Rhaetian Railway sent the carriage into permanent retirement on the sidings. It took 'Club 1889' to bring the relic back to life.

In 1989 the Rhaetian Railway celebrated its centenary. To mark the occasion, it brought its very first steam locomotive, the G 3/4 1 'Rhätia', back to Graubünden. However, the accompanying carriages were overlooked: a complete, authentic composition of two passenger cars and a luggage coach was languishing in obscurity, demoted to the status of service vehicle. In 1996 this fact spurred a few natives of Samedan, RhB employees and railway lovers to found the 'Club 1889' for the preservation of the RhB's historical vehicles. The aim: to restore the down-at-heel 'X 9034', which had served as an electrical workshop for years, to its former state as the 'C 2012' third-class carriage. No easy task, given that practically all the wood was rotten and the interior fittings had disappeared over the decades. For three long years 28 club members – young and not so young, professionals and laymen – worked on this reminder of railway history in the RhB's workshops in Samedan. It took 5,600 hours of work to painstakingly transform the former pile of scrap, before the faithfully reconstructed 'C 2012' finally stood on the RhB tracks. Since 1999 the oldest RhB carriage has been riding the rails of Graubünden once more as part of historical train compositions. www.club1889.ch

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Next stop

Engadin Skimarathon: rolling along!

More than 12,000 cross-country skiers all requiring transport on the same day: for the Rhaetian Railway as transport partner, the Engadin Skimarathon is a logistical tour de force. But of course the 42 kilometres also present a challenge for those taking part in the race – including Samuel Rindlisbacher, Head of Controlling at RhB. Contura "ran" the race with him. Just time for him to enjoy one last cup of tea and a banana, change his shoes, deposit his bag of clothes at army truck no. 21, then it’s off – lug ging his skis – in the direction of the starting area. A few short sprints, a swing of the arms and a couple of stretches, then the skis get buckled on and Samuel Rindlisbacher lines up next to hundreds of other participants. Vangelis’ "Conquest of Paradise" blasts out – somewhat melodramatically – from the loudspeakers. Although: maybe the 12,000 or so skiers gath

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: ering on the snow-clad Lej da Segl – as Lake Sils is known locally – for the start of the 45th Engadin Skimarathon on this beautiful sunny morning in Maloja really do feel as if they are about to conquer their very own piece of paradise. Three, two, one – and they’re off. After a few minutes, the sportsmen and women are no more than tiny dots, barely visible on the frozen surface of the lake. Recipe for success: relaxation and pasta In 2013, Samuel Rindlisbacher is taking part in the ski marathon for the third time. Already an old hand, he shows almost no sign of nerves: "I’m just doing this for fun", he says. He wasn’t able to train as hard this year as on previous occasions, having just recently become a dad. A full-blooded sportsman, however, he makes sure he eats mountains of pasta the eve ning before the big race. The 34-year-old took up cross-country five years ago – "out of curiosity", as he puts it. He used to be a downhill skier. But now he enjoys the fact that there is no more queuing up for ski lifts and no jostling for position on the slopes. Samuel Rindlisbacher is entered in the 'general class' category: "I just missed out on qualifying for the 'main class B' category last year by two minutes." Those taking part in the gen eral class are energetic but nevertheless relaxed; the ambition to traverse the 42 kilometres from Maloja to S-chanf via Pontresina on cross-country skis is palpable, and there’s a touch of excitement in the air, but the mood in the starting area on this sunny winter morning seems pretty relaxed. "The Engadin Skimarathon is always perfectly organised; there’s never any chaos", according to Rindlisbacher.

A good warm-up and a drink stop in Pontresina: Samuel Rindlisba cher makes the marathon (almost) look easy.

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Samuel Rindlisbacher in good shape at the halfway mark in Pontresina: "It's going well!"

A breather with Pippa Middleton We catch up with him again in Pontresina, the finish point for the half marathon: as predicted, Samuel Rindlisbacher arrives at the food and drink station after one and a half hours. Dozens of volunteers line the edges of the course, handing out drinks to the thirsty participants. Music, party tents and barbecued sausages: the atmosphere here gives the spectators some idea of what the celebrations will be like at the finish in S-chanf. Pippa Middleton has just whizzed past, the loudspeakers announce. Prince Wil liam’s sister-in-law finishes in 233rd position (out of 494) in her category. Samuel Rindlisbacher is also doing well at the halfway mark: "I got off to a really nice start across the lake", he tells us. "But the Staz forest just outside Pontresina is always hard going – however, I’m happy with my time so far." Party mood in S-chanf By car we – naturally – reach the finishing line long before the marathon skiers. Although: the fastest participants cover the 42-km distance be tween Maloja and S-chanf on cross-country skis in less than ninety min utes. Our man from the RhB takes a little longer: Samuel Rindlisbacher crosses the finishing line after three hours and 33 minutes. He is very happy: "I was only one minute slower than last year! I enjoyed myself and felt really great up to the halfway mark. But the 'Golan heights' at the end were really quite tough. There are two or three brutal climbs – everyone is made to suffer so close to finishing." He has no trouble whatsoever in re trieving his stuff from army truck no. 21. Perfect organisation, like he said. And then a satisfied Samuel Rindlisbacher disappears among the crowds of skiers and spectators milling around the food and drink stands, bands playing carnival music and massage tents.

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Get on board and immerse yourself: with the RhB spa package – Pure relaxation not just for athletes.  553

Three questions to the Head of Production Region West Patricia Demarmels coordinates the transport for the Engadin Skimarathon in collaboration with the event organisers.

and spectators. And the scheduled trains also make an additional stop at the specially set-up 'S-chanf Marathon' station.

How many RhB employees are called out specially for the Engadin Skimarathon? Just over 50 employees who would not normally be working put in a special shift on race day. They are involved in shunting activities, directing customers or in signal operations. Our staff always look forward to this event – it makes a nice change from their normal working day.

And does transporting so many people always go smoothly? On the day of the marathon, the RhB conveyed more than 12,000 people – that’s quite impressive. But we’ve got the hang of it. And, of course, we always have emergency plans. This year there was a problem with one of the engines, but our passengers didn’t notice this at all. On a big occasion like this, we usually run no more than Patricia Demarmels, one or two minutes behind Head of Production schedule. Region West at

How many additional trains does the RhB make available to ensure this major event runs smoothly? In 2013, we operated 25 additional trains on marathon day for participants

Rhaetian Railway.

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From the workshop

A local hero: the sledge maker from Sri Lanka

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Sledging fun: Along the famous track to pure excitement on wooden runners.  223

A Sri Lankan refugee now at home in Graubünden: carpenter Kavithas Jeyabalan

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It’s a stable construction on two runners, made entirely of high quality ash and freshly lubricated: the Schanfigg sledge – handmade in the Kavi joinery in Peist. "Kavi" himself is personally committed to preserving this traditional Swiss craft: Kavithas Jeyabalan, who came to Switzerland in 1984 as a Tamil refugee. A true life fairytale. How on earth did he end up here? The question unavoidably comes up on the train ride from Chur to Peist, which has been home to one-time Sri Lankan refugee Kavithas Jeyabalan for almost 30 years now. Mountains and deep gorges meet the eye. Here and there a small village, none with more than 200 residents. Like Peist, 30 minutes from Arosa. A picturesque, idyllic landscape: picture-postcard Switzerland, although seemingly in the back of beyond. It was actually the RhB that first brought him here: "I was curious to know where the red train went to", says Kavi, as he is known to everyone. And so one day he climbed aboard the little red train in Chur, where he was living in the asylum centre, and rode up to Arosa. He found work at a local joinery, the agreed two months "The Swiss appreciate ultimately turning into ten whole years. good quality. When

they buy something,

Raised in the workshop Today, Kavi runs his own woodworking business and Kavithas Jeyabalan employs seven people. What started off as a one-man outfit in a shed is now a flourishing three-storey enterprise. However, Kavi does not owe his success to the famous sledges, which he and his team manufacture here: "There’s not a lot of money to be made with the sledges – not even enough to pay one of my employees", he laughs. At least eight hours of manual labour and material costs of up to 300 francs go into the making of a sledge. At a unit price of 400 to 500 francs, that leaves little more than 20 francs profit. But the sledges are more of a passion, a hobby rather than a business – Kavi actually makes his money from fitted kitchens and interiors. The emphasis is on quality in

they want it to last."

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Traditional Swiss craftsmanship: Kavi’s sledges are "built to last", with no loose joints.

all his work: "Switzerland has a reputation for high quality. And for me it is the best form of advertising." His skills as a craftsman were most likely inherited from his father, who also owned a woodworking/woodturning business. As a child, Kavi grew up in the workshop, so it comes as no surprise that he went on to study carpentry at technical college in Sri Lanka. But it was his former boss in Arosa who first introduced the 49-year-old to the Arosa sledge – or Schanfigg sledge, as Kavi has renamed it following a few improvements. Hand-made and built to last Isn’t it rather strange that someone from as far away as the Indian Ocean should have saved the traditional Swiss sledge? "No", he answers. "I am proud of being able to help preserve this Swiss craft." The wood for his Schanfigg sledges comes from a joinery in the Sargans area. It has to be Swiss ash: the wood is durable and barely warps when moist. The 22 individual parts that make up a Schanfigg sledge are cut to size using a milling machine. What makes Kavi’s sledges special is that there are no metal sup-

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ports and almost no screws. "All the pieces are mortised together", Kavi explains in the local dialect. A mortise and tenon joint, as it is known in the trade, involves sliding the longitudinal body slats through holes in the horizontal cleats, or cross bars. This is what makes the sledge particularly stable: "Nothing will come loose. A sledge like this will last for at least 20 to 25 years", says the carpenter. Kavi and his employees also pay particular attention to the two runners: they are Even Eros Ramazotti fashioned into the right form as a single piece and only owns a genuine then split into two parts. This is to ensure that the two Schanfigg sledge. runners are absolutely identical and will not bend out of shape differently – the only way to guarantee that the sledge will stay perfectly in the tracks. Once they are finished, the wooden sledges are given one final inspection to check that the runners lie flat on the ground, and only then is the stainless chromium steel applied to make it run fast. This painstaking care pays off: at sledge races in the valley, Kavi’s vehicles are regularly up there among the leaders at any rate. But the sledges from Kavi’s workshop are not only popular with locals – customers come from as far away as Bern and Basel, and even Eros Ramazotti is the proud owner of a genuine Schanfigg sledge. This all goes to show that quality work really is the best form of advertising. Not just Swiss, but a local too Kavithas Jeyabalan’s success as a carpenter has been hard won. Everyone in the village and the valley knows and respects him – itʼs a tale of successful integration that is almost too good to be true. But a great deal of hard work has gone into it: when Kavi fled to Switzerland almost 30 years ago he didn’t speak a word of German, never mind the local dialect. "Apart from the cold climate, this strange language was definitely the hardest thing to which I had to become accustomed. At one point I asked myself: should I go back to Sri Lanka or stay here in Switzerland? Well, of course, I had a job here. And then I met Vreni, who later became my wife. So I decided to stay." And from that day on he did everything he could to learn the local language, so that he could communicate with people and integrate. Word by word, he wrote down what he heard in German and Swiss

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Perfect to the last detail: when making his famous Schanfigg sledges, Kavi pays attention to high quality at every step in the process.

German. Today, Kavi is almost more fluent in the Schanfigg dialect than in Tamil: "At the moment I have two employees from Sri Lanka so I do speak Tamil now and again. But I mostly make a point of speaking German, even with them." In 1990 he married Vreni and started a family: the couple and their five children now live in an old farmhouse right opposite the joinery. It goes without saying that Kavi renovated the interior himself. His wife claims that he is every bit as Swiss as the locals: hard working, punctual and aware of quality – Kavi embodies all of these typical Swiss values. Vreni and Kavi Jeyabalan are both members of the local folk dance group, for which they dress in traditional attire. He became a Swiss citizen in the early nineties. However, the man from "It took two years Peist has retained his typical Tamil openness: "Right from before I was able the start I went up to the people here and spoke with all to communicate in of them. It didn't matter whether they were young or old. the local dialect." I actually get on well with everyone in the village. And my family has become like me: we enjoy having visitors or Kavithas Jeyabalan inviting people round for a drink or a meal, often spontaneously and with a minimum of fuss." It’s clear: the Tamil Kavithas Jeyabalan has made the mountain village of Peist his second home. And what about the sledges? They are going well as always – both metaphorically and literally, in terms of sales and on the sledge run. And if Kavi has his way, they will continue to do so for many years to come: that’s why he has passed on the secrets of this traditional craft to his employees. But he is content to hold onto the reins for the time being: "Iʼll certainly keep going for at least another 20 years", Kavi states emphatically.

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Rail network

Highlights of the Rhaetian Railway

Rhine Gorge

Zürich

Basel Bern

Chur

SCHWEIZ 2

Langwieser Viaduct

Genève

Graubünden

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Landwasser Viaduct

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Sed run

Oberalppass

Wiesner Viaduct

Andermatt Visp Zermatt

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Lukmanier Biasca

Albula viaducts and spiral tunnels

no rdi rna Be n Sa

SCHWEIZ SWITZERLAND SVIZZERA

Ospizio Bernina

Brusio Circular Viaduct

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graubündenPASS: Travel fun throughout the canton. All aboard!  1037

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Good to know

Green, red, orange: RhB signals and signs

Have you ever wondered what our railway signals with their different-coloured lights and strange signs mean? Everyone knows that you need a highway code for road traffic. The same applies to railways: train drivers and railway workers need a set of rules to help them do their job properly. Perhaps the biggest difference between road and rail traffic is that a train cannot stop within its line of sight because - depending on its speed - it may require a very long braking distance before it can come to a standstill. That is why there is always a distant signal giving the driver advance warning of the main signal ahead, so that he can prepare himself to react correctly when he reaches the main signal. How fast? What do the lights say? In order to distinguish between the two types of signal, the distant signals of the RhB are square, while the main signals are upright rectangles. The meaning of each signal depends on which lights and colours are lit up: for example, if the two orange upper lights of the distant signal are lit, this means that the driver will have to stop the train at the next main signal. At the main signal itself, there will be a red light. The maximum permitted speed on a particular section of the track is stipulated in the route table. But to make things more complicated for the driver: unlike on the road, speed limits on the railways are not always indicated in figures, but in certain cases through a combination of green and orange lights. When a train passes a signal showing a speed limit, the driver must keep to this speed until the next signal shows a different speed limit or gives the "go ahead" to proceed. However, on winding stretches of track where it is necessary to drive slower than usual, speed signs are displayed indicating the permitted speed in figures. Here, too, there is a distant signal showing the permitted speed, as well as a starting signal and an end signal, after which the driver can return to driving at normal speed.

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Signals The train driver must react correctly to the distant signal in order to observe the rules when he reaches the main signal – for example, by driving at the prescribed speed. So open your eyes! Here is a small selection of signals.

Speed signs Distance signal Reduced speed This distant signal shows that after the next starting signal the maximum speed restriction indicated here will apply. Starting signal Reduced speed The speed restriction applies after this signal.

Distance signal Main signal

Stop at the main signal The driver will have been warned in good time by the two orange lights of the distant signal that the main signal indicates "stop" by means of a red light.

End signal Reduced speed The speed restriction no longer applies after this signal – but only after the very end of the train has passed the signal.

Proceed The green light indicates that the maximum speed permitted in the route table applies.

Drive at a speed of 30 km/h These two signals warn the driver and tell him that on the following stretch of track he may not drive faster than 30 km/h.

Drive at a speed of 45 km/h A few more green lights, placed differently – and the RhB has yet another signal: here, the distant signal warns the driver that the maximum permitted speed will be 45 km/h after the next main signal.

Footplate rides: Get to know the UNESCO World Heritage RhB line in a way only otherwise experienced by the driver.  256

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Competition

How well do you know the RhB?

Quiz question: How many metres in altitude does the Arosa Line of the RhB climb on its way from Chur to Arosa in just one hour?

This little animal scurries from tree to tree, nibbles a hazelnut, then resumes its climb. What creature of the forest could this be? The dotted picture below gives you a clue. Our tip: you’ll see lots of these furry animals on the hiking trail of the same name in Arosa …

a) 650 metres

b) 880 metres

c) 735 metres

d) 1,000 metres

6 76 73

74 78

70 69

82 81

15 16

61 60

68 66

117

91 52

116

92 94

56 50

114 115

105 97

113 112 20 110 108 111 22 24 106 109 107

102

103

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49 48

46 45

104

101

19 21 23

29 36

38 41 43 44

30 31 33

Pure nature: Visit the hiking trail named after me in Arosa.  552

40 42

We are giving away two 2nd class return train tickets from your nearest station to Arosa. Send your answer marked 'wettbewerb' (competition) to contura@rhb.ch or send a postcard to: Rhätische Bahn, Marketing Kommunikation & E-Business, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 7002 Chur. Participation is free of charge and without obligation. Ticket valid for travel in Switzerland. Winners will be notified in writing. Prizes will not be paid out in cash. No correspondence will be entered into in connection with the competition and all decisions are final. All personal data will be treated with strict confidentiality and will not be passed on to third parties.

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For your diary

Our events at a glance

125 years of the Rhaetian Railway 10 May 2014 The RhB has been providing fantastic railway experiences on its mountain lines since 1889 – a cause for celebration! ▶ ▶ 125

100 years Chur – Arosa 13 / 14 December 2014 The RhB celebrates the centenary of the Chur – Arosa line: a festive winter weekend with numerous surprises. ▶ ▶ 100

Clà Ferrovia – the children’s guide 19 / 20 October 2013 and 15 and 20 / 21 December 2013 Clà Ferrovia will guide you to adventures full of colour and light. www.cla-ferrovia.ch

Swiss National Park centenary 1 August 2014 Straight to the National Park Zernez and a host of centenary events with the RhB. ▶ ▶ 1039

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RhB to hand

Brochures and tourist maps

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Railshop

Souvenirs for all ages

Discover our extensive range of gift items and souvenirs www.rhb.ch/railshop

Railway Adventure Trail Albula Enjoy nature at its best on the eightkilometre-long Railway Adventure Trail Albula from Preda to Filisur. Find all information in the accompanying guidebook.

iPhone case from stone pine wood The new RhB iPhone case made from genuine Swiss stone pine exudes the smell of the Engadin.

Viaduct jigsaw puzzle Thanks to this puzzle you can admire a true landmark of the RhB network at home: the 1,000-piece jigsaw shows the Glacier Express crossing the famous Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur.

The RhB credit and prepaid card: benefits all along the line The RhB credit and prepaid card lets railway enthusiasts and RhB fans benefit from all the advantages of cashless payment. Choose your favourite design from the three attractive images on offer. www.rhb.ch/cornercard

RhB card: Info on the new credit and prepaid card is available at:  2534 63

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www.rhb.ch Rhaetian Railway Inc Bahnhofstrasse 25 CH-7002 Chur Tel +41 (0)81 288 65 65 Fax +41 (0)81 288 61 05 railservice@rhb.ch

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