Michael Bamford
Wandering Albatross
Photo: Michael Bamford
A South Atlantic Odyssey 36 Tubenose species and counting A trip from Patagonia to Ascension Island March/April 2016 I had been lately starved of the sea, so took up this voyage organised by Wildwings with Oceanwide Expeditions, on the Dutch ship Plancius, as it made its way from its Southern Ocean voyages in the Antarctic summer, to its North Atlantic summering ground. We boarded the ship on the 26th March, after I had spent a couple of days by the beautiful Beagle Channel seeing many Patagonian birds, including my first Magellanic penguin, Antarctic Fulmar, Chilean Skua, Sooty Shearwater, Kelp Gull, Dolphin Gull, Imperial and Rock Shag as well as many goose and duck species. The ship was not entirely full. For economic reasons I had taken a berth in a 3-man cabin, however I found I had it to myself. Amongst the 70 or so passengers there were some die-hard birders, but many travellers with different interests, which made the trip a varied experience. There was a full complement of expert support, and our group was led by Simon Cook who mixed experience, expertise, patience and humour in a very helpful blend. The first leg of the trip was from Ushuaia to South Georgia – four days at sea in the latitude 50s, which made for some impressive ocean swells and at times fewer folk at breakfast. Ample access to the decks produced our first Wandering, Southern Royal and Black-browed Albatross, and, as we neared South Georgia, Grey-headed
12
THE HAR R I ER – W inte r 2 0 1 6
and then the charismatic Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. We were accompanied by Southern Giant and Cape Petrel, our first prions – Antarctic and Slender-billed. Petrels included: White-chinned, Soft-plumaged and Wilson’s Storm Petrel plus both Magellanic and Common diving Petrels, and at South Georgia Grey-backed and Black-bellied Storm Petrel as well as Antarctic Tern. Three days on and around South Georgia made for a remarkable experience, with unseasonably sunny weather; visiting the old whaling station at Grytviken and the grave of Ernest Shackleton. We made two RIB landings on the King Penguin colonies at Salisbury Island, and St Andrew’s Bay, where huge colonies of late season birds and chicks mixed with Antarctic fur seals, and were remarkably tolerant of our presence. The colonies were accompanied by scavenging Pale-faced Sheathbills, Brown Skuas and Giant Petrels, including white phase birds. Small numbers of Gentoo and Macaroni Penguins were seen at different colonies, and we saw the endemic South Georgian Pintail and South Georgian Pipit – the most southerly passerine in the world. A landing at Prion Island showed nesting Wandering Albatross and Southern Giant Petrel. Apart from its rugged beauty and history, South Georgia has recently been declared free of rats following an extended eradication programme, and bird populations are
