A Summer in Provence 2015 by A Summer in Provence

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Out and about Gastronomy Entertainment Discovery

Museums

Practical ideas

Market…

Luberon Gordes,

a jewel in Luberon

Aix-Salon

Saint-Chamas,

Life in a troglodyte dwelling, a timeless haven

Alpilles

Les Baux-de-Provence,

“art must be original and deliver a punch”

Provence

The must-do things this summer…

N° 4 - 2015 - Provence - 40

000 copies - Free

Provence | Traditional Fare |

Traditional Provençal markets

Where to find the main markets: Monday morning: Luberon: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris, Velleron Alpilles: Fontvieille, Saint-Etienne du Grès Aix region: Les Milles, Luynes Tuesday morning: Luberon: Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste Alpilles: Cabannes, Rognonas, Tarascon Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles Salon region: Alleins, Eyguières Wednesday morning: Luberon: Le Thor, Gargas Alpilles: Mollégès, Mouriès, Orgon, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Meyrargues Salon region: Mallemort, Salon de Provence Thursday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Ménerbes, Robion, Roussillon Alpilles: Aureille, Maillane, Maussane les Alpilles, Noves Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, La Roque d’Anthéron Salon region: Sénas

Friday morning: Luberon: Bonnieux, Cavaillon, Lourmarin, Lagnes Alpilles: Barbentane, Eygalières, Eyragues, Fontvieille, Graveson, Saint-Andiol Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, Lambesc Salon region: Eyguières, Mallemort, Salon de Provence Saturday morning: Luberon: Apt, Cheval Blanc, Le Thor, Ménerbes, Oppède, Petit Palais Alpilles: Cabannes, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Venelles Salon region: Salon de Provence, Charleval, Miramas Sunday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Coustellet Alpilles: Châteaurenard Aix region: Jouque, Aix-en-Provence, Vitrolles, Meyrargues Salon region: Pélissanne, Salon de Provence

SUMMER IN PROVENCE Directeur de la publication, gérant : Nicolas Coissard Rédacteurs : Anne-Sophie Sourd, Eric Morichaud, Rémi Lacassin Traduction : Irene Chalmers Preire Crédits photos : X Impression : Rotimpres Rédaction-Publicité : 06 09 98 67 49 - 06 63 75 06 96 redaction@aureliaeditions.fr Publicité et communication : Béatrice Bettinelli, Le Journal des Alpilles : www.journaldesalpilles.fr Nadine Lefebvre Marseille, Le Journal du Luberon : www.journalduluberon.fr Lionel Matteoda, Le journal du Pays Salonais : www.journaldupayssalonais.fr 44, rue Lafayette - 13 300 Salon de Provence sont édités par la SARL de presse Aurélia Editions, au capital de 1500 euros. RCS B 419 512 918

Editorial

If there is one thing that the Alpilles, the Aix region, the Luberon and the Salon region all have in common it’s the weekly market; virtually every town and village has a morning market. Local fruit and vegetables, traditional crafts, olive oil, honey … the fare on every stand more mouth-watering than the last. Make a point of visiting one!

By Anne-Sophie Sourd

Enjoy it! From the Alpilles to Sainte-Victoire via the banks of Etang de Berre and the slopes of Mont Ventoux, Provence is a place to live. How can we advise you to visit one place rather than another? There are just so many things to see and do here. So many treasures spread out here and there, will you choose to visit the country, or the mountains, or the seaside? Make the most of your stay to discover that Provence, let yourself be inspired by our markets and chat with the merchants who want nothing more than to share their skills and experience with you. Enjoy the beat of our festivals, puzzle over the secrets in our museums, taste the products of age-old traditions that are at the origin of our region. Life is good in Provence. Enjoy it! ASS 2

Marseille soap, a true story … The cube of soap with the stamp on the side is a legend in its own right and has been part of everyday life down through the ages. Let’s take a trip into the world of the traditions surrounding the fragrant and inimitable Marseille soap. By Eric Morichaud

rom Cresca Davin, who was officially (according to the story) the first soap-maker in Marseille, to those few families who still carry on the tradition, the recipe has apparently remained unchanged and its secret relies essentially on the maker’s skill and the use of natural ingredients. 72% vegetable oil, 28 % moisture content, a little soda, a little salt, a fire that is lovingly stoked, and a master soap maker who, like the alchemist that he is, reaps the fruit of his magic. It is a recipe for success that is closely tied to the history of Provence; a recipe that has its roots in distant lands, colonies of yore and partners of today - Aleppo in Syria, for instance, with thousands of years of ritual soap making. Marseille soap is based on the same principles. The method arrived in France with the return of the Crusaders, pilgrims, and merchants. The only part of the original ancestral recipe that was kept was the use of olives; this was a way of using the residue (skin, pulp and crushed pits) left over after the first cold press of olive oil, the veritable green gold of the region… There followed a boom at the end of the 16th century where Marseille built the first soap “factories”, taking the activity from a small scale traditional level and raising it to a more developed stage of production that still used the original methods. In the 17th century, Provence cashed in on one of the natural local assets, gathering large quantities of salsola soda (opposite-leaved saltwort) a plant native to the Camargue coast, adding salt and a major part of the olive oil production. As hygiene practices and the need for washerwomen in Marseille increased, as it did in the rest of Provence, in fact as it did everywhere else in France and Western Europe, so did the need for Marseille soap. The political climate was also favorable for this expansion because France was at odds with Spain at the time and could hardly count on raw material supplies from the other side of the Pyrenees.

An edict to the rescue In Marseille in 1660, seven soap factories brought the annual production to nearly 20 000 tons. The reputation of the soap went beyond the limits of the realm, beyond the Channel, the Netherlands, beyond even the Holy Roman Empire, and the buyers were legion. Inspired by the success of a booming industry, there appeared a number of fake products on the market using the common name of Marseille soap. The situation was such that Louis XIV took steps to prevent fraud with an edict signed by Colbert the Younger, Minister for the Maison du Roi. The edict specified, among other things, the rules for soap-making - that it should be free of animal fats and that only pure olive oil should be used. Besides this, manufacture must stop in summer because the general heat was bad for the storage of the product as it was then. The edict also drew popular attention to the importance of using Marseille soap every day, which in turn fueled the expansion of soap-making in the Provençal hinterland. Salon de Provence, given its location between the merchant port of Marseille and the Camargue, gained its place on the map from this.

Uses and health benefits Whether it is white or green, Marseille soap is, first and foremost, a forerunner of ecological products; it is100% biodegradable, ideal for skin care and recommended for sensitive skins. Besides this, it is indispensible for washing and removing stains from modern fabrics. It has also been called a miracle product – put it under the covers at the bottom of your bed to fight cramps, use it as an antiseptic for slight wounds and place it in the wardrobe as a moth repellent. The “black” version is used in the home. Potash is added instead of soda and liquid black soap becomes part of our daily home care products replacing washing powder, floor cleaners, degreasing agents, paint thinners, animal shampoos, and plant insecticides.

The ups and downs of an economy At a time when the Age of Enlightenment was drawing to an end, overcome by a deep social upheaval, the Marseille soap industry was thriving with nearly 50 soap factories and a thousand workers who could be supplemented, if necessary, with prisoners. Production continued to increase, virtually unaffected by the uproar of the French Revolution. The early 19th century saw ground-breaking progress such as the addition of chemically produced soda (sea water, sulfur, charcoal, soda produced by the Leblanc process) and the use of oils from exotic places. The port of Marseille saw palm, copra, sesame, and ground nut oil arrive from Africa and the Middle East and, with these, the emergence of the white version of Marseille soap that was so prized to silk manufacturers, hosiers, spinners, dyers and other textile craftsmen (notably those who produced Indienne textiles). It was a time of industry and international trade, and Marseille soap saw the arrival of a threat that came from “Perfidious Albion” and from Paris, with competition from products that were cheaper to produce but were based on animal fat … With the 20th century came a shortage of workers and of raw materials. Marseille soap was the victim of naval blockades and suffered its first bleak times during the Great War when production dropped by two thirds. At the end of the war, a little under 53 000 tons left the factories per year (as opposed to 180 000 tons before the war). The inter-war period saw new growth for Marseille soap aided by increased mechanization of the traditional recipe. The Second World War was sounded the death knell for soap factories in Marseille, Salon, Toulon and Arles. After the war, the emergence of new products such as detergents and the first washing machines seemed to condemn Marseille soap to a limited production.

…A well known ambassador 108 soap factories in Marseille and 14 in Salon de Provence during the height of production and only 3 and 2 respectively today. It looked like the end of an era. Not true says Julie Bousquet, great-great-grand-daughter of Marius Fabre, the founder of one on the last two soap factories in Salon in 1900. As she reminds us, “Traditionally made Marseille soap is becoming more and more popular in France and the rest of the world, notably in Japan – the main importer.” So it’s a leading product in the Provençal economy and thousands of fans of all nationalities come to discover at its fragrant source!

Murs

Le Thor

Mérindol

Lacoste

St-Saturnin d’Apt

Buoux

Oppède le Vieux

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Gargas | Hôtel***** Gastronomy - Spa - vineyard - cycling |

Coquillade***** Village, gourmet delights, well-being and good living Leisure and recreation, Coquillade***** Village …

From one taste experience to another, gourmet cuisine, bistro tones and Italian sunshine

The food is exceptional, extracting the quintessence from the ingredients, taking a new look at traditional, regional cooking, purely and simply creative. A chef who loves the season’s fresh flavors, who highlights the restaurant’s kitchen garden and the morning market. A vegetable-based cuisine from both sea and land, favoring the association of the subtle and the fragrant, toying with textures and ensuring surprises from start to finish. A style that is both simple yet elegant that discerning palates will appreciate in the Menu des Saveurs du Marché (changed every week) at 72€ or the Chef’s menu (changed every season) at 95€. Reservation is recommended. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Le Bistrot and Le Jardin dans les Vignes Le Jardin dans les Vignes will be opening for another season on 26th June. You can savor all the “bistronomical” flavors and seasonal produce suggested by the Bistrot outdoors on the terrace overlooking the vineyard. Food for the moment, focusing on simplicity and lighter dishes for both lunch and dinner. Open for lunch and dinner 7/7 A la carte menu. Starter, main course and dessert menu (39€)

Le Gourmet, fine fare … naturally

Stopovers and longer stays … for an outstanding experience

On the estate or in the Luberon Regional Natural Park, trails through the vines, cycle tours, visits and workshops to help you discover wine or develop your appreciation of it, organized excursions as well as a selection of other activities to choose from. There is a wellness area with various treatments and massages. Also a 25m lap pool and heated swimming pool. © Coquillade

For a break, to enjoy the food, to relax and take time for yourself, or just to explore the Luberon … there are so many reasons to come to Coquillade***** Village and settle into its totally unique lifestyle. The setting is remarkable, the atmosphere is that of efficiency and comfort, here is a place where you can spend time with family and friends, or make use of the exceptional infrastructure at your disposal for your professional requirements.

The authenticity of a Provençal village, and a setting of stones worn smooth by time and surrounded by greenery. Private terraces with an exceptional view of the surrounding hills. Absolute comfort, peace and quiet, discreet and helpful personnel. Welcome to Coquillade***** Village, why not discover our incomparable atmosphere and services in one of our new rooms or suites?

Discover the Coquillade SPA this summer!

Il Ristorante, a taste of Italy © Brice Toul

Specialties from the purest Italian traditions, from the whole country over. Wood smoke pizza, finest charcuterie, servings of Italian-inspired sunshine, to enjoy beside the pool with the view! Open at lunchtime 7/7 and from Tuesday to Saturday in the evening.

Summer evenings at Coquillade***** Village ... Information and booking by telephone. Piano evenings: Fridays (until 23rd October) at the Bistrot. “Italian wine” evening: 19th June at Il Ristorante. “Soirée Rose”: 3rd July in Le Jardin dans les Vignes, organized by the Aureto team Claudine François vernissage: Friday 17th July “Petit Miracle” evening: 1st August at Il Ristorante Great Burgundy wines evening: 29th August at Le Gourmet Four-handed evening with Eric Jambon: 25th September at Le Gourmet

For hotel guests or visitors, there is an entire complex dedicated to wellness, health and personal care covering over 1500 m2. There are 5 distinct zones: Relaxation, Total Beauty, Fitness, Food and Body, Health and Well-being. SPA, private spa, spa for one, spa for two, 4 booths for facial and body treatments, double booths for facial and body treatments, an exfoliating bar, a hydrotherapy room, a spa hair salon, a spa pedicure room. Regular visitor subscriptions are available and prices will soon be on the www.coquillade.fr website.

All your professional events … At your disposal for the promotion of your activities or for launching your products (cars, high tech, Haute Couture collections, ready to wear collections, etc.), partner days, customer reception is a 400 m2 room, entirely adaptable, with all the audio and video equipment you need.

At the Aureto winery ... Two open-air cinema evenings showing “La Strada” on 24th July and 21st August. Bring your own picnic and enjoy the Aureto wines! Le Bal du rosé. Friday 14th August: A festive, musical evening celebrating rosé wines by Aureto. Cave Aureto Tours and tasting Chemin des Lièvres, 84220 Goult Telephone: 04 90 74 54 67 Opening times: Every day from 10 am to 7 pm.

Coquillade***** Village Wheelchair access – Visitors car park Hameau Le Perrotet - 84400 Gargas – Tel.: +33(0)4 90 74 71 71 - info@coquillade.fr - www.coquillade.fr - GPS: 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E 5

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Luberon / Alpilles | Period building materials – Originals and reproductions |

hen renovating or building, indoors or out, nothing compares with the charm of period building materials and the patina of time. In Apt in the Luberon and in Maillane in the Alpilles, the Chabaud family has been nurturing a passion for all things genuine, for stonework charged with history, woodwork that survived the centuries, and terracotta and wrought iron made by the hand of the craftsman. There are roof tiles, floor tiles, natural flagstones, square and round beams in all sizes, rafters, roof boards, not to mention interior and exterior stone elements such as staircases, window and door frames, pillars, troughs, gates, handrails and balustrades on thousands of square meters of display. Whatever you are seeking, you can be sure to find an element that suits your taste, that will perfect your interior design, or that will form the basic structure of your home while adding a lot of character. Hunted down for you all

Jean Chabaud, for a home full of charm and character

LES MATÉRIAUX ANCIENS JEAN CHABAUD over France, then dismounted, repaired, and cleaned … everything here has been carefully prepared for a second life by a team of specialists who are also experienced in stonecutting and who can reproduce an existing model or breathe life into a project that you designed yourself, like a garden pond, for instance. We were particularly taken by the many styles of fountains as well as the fire-

Z.I. Avenue Roumanille (Rte de Gargas) - 84400 Apt Tel.: 04 90 74 07 61 - Fax: 04 90 74 48 15 Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 1.30 pm to 6 pm. Open on Saturdays from 8 am to noon. GPS: lat. 43°53'13" - long. 5°22'36"

places in the showroom, both the genuine originals and the reproductions. Besides that, we also noted the Provençal-style ceilings and floor tiling in terracotta and cut natural stone. All of these elements can, of course, be shipped to you in France and abroad.

Z.A de la Praderie 13910 Maillane – Tel.: 04 84 51 01 88 Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 1.30 pm to 5.30 pm. www.chabaud-materiaux-anciens.com contact@chabaud-materiaux.com THE

Technical advice and assistance in selection. Stonemasonry workshop. Tailored creation of articles and copies of originals

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Luberon | Wine - Vineyards – Enotourism |

Wine discovery events … by Aureto

ureto is the product of passion and genuine winegrowing know-how. Now that the fine days are here, it’s even more tempting than usual to discover their vintages and find out what producing Luberon and Ventoux PDO, and Vaucluse GPI red, white and rosé wines actually entails. There are wines for special occasions or just for a personal treat. Here we are between Goult and Apt, among the wines, preparing for the many summer events ahead.

Visiting the wine warehouse …

Come to one of our guided tours to discover our wine cellar, our winemaking techniques, the winegrower’s work and expertise and taste our reds, white and rosés! On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6 pm on the dot.

of wine (salty, sweet, acidic, sour) The nose: recognizing aromas and essences Tasting: theory and practice, the stages of wine- tasting

A stroll in the vines …

Walk the Sentier Vigneron with a guide on Wednesday mornings or visit it without a guide at any time (map supplied). There are 3 discovery trails through the vines and hills of the Luberon and take from 30 minutes to an hour and a half; they are free of cost for individuals. Please contact us for groups. The wine warehouse is the meeting

These take place twice a month until September (12th and 27th June, 10th and 25th July, 7th and 22nd August, 5th and 18th September); Fridays at 6 pm, Saturdays at 10 am. Reservation is obligatory: 15€ per person. Workshops can be set up for groups of 4 to 10 persons.

point (La Coquillade village) – Gargas. Call us for information or ask on site.

Tasting workshops … for one and all!

Wines and festivities … by courtesy of Aureto! Friday 3rd July, Soirée Rose with Aureto, at Le Jardin dans les Vignes in La Coquillade***** Village Friday 14th August: Le Bal du rosé. A festive, musical evening celebrating Aureto’s rosé wines at the wine shop.

Ciné Aureto picnics – La Strada!

Learn in simple steps how to appreciate wine. Spoil a friend or spoil yourself! Sensory analysis: the 4 basic tastes

CIn the evenings of 24th July and 21st August, at the Aureto wine shop for an open-air showing of “La Strada”; all the conviviality of open-air cinema, while enjoying your picnic, and accompanied by Aureto wines. Further information at the wine shop.

AURETO – WINE SHOP - WINE-TASTING

D 900, chemin des Lièvres - 84220 Goult – Tel.: +33 (0) 490 74 54 67 - info@aureto.fr - www.aureto.fr – Open every day from 10 am to 7 pm - GPS: 043° 51.47.00’’ N, 05° 17.12.00” E

AURETO VINEYARDS – WINE WAREHOUSE

Hameau de la Coquillade - Perrotet - 84400 Gargas - GPS : 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E

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Coustellet | Vision Plus Optician - Sunglasses and spectacles |

Sun protection from leading brands

In Vision Plus in Coustellet, your English-speaking opticians Jérôme and Cédric have made sunglasses their specialty, in a decidedly “fashion” approach. They have one of the best selections in the region for men women and children, whether your tastes are trendy, elegant, laid-back or sporty. They also have exclusive models, due partnerships with selected creative artists and designers, that go with all styles as well as special offers on high quality spectacles and sunglasses for all budgets … Our summer selection …

Sunglasses: technical glass lenses and stylish frames …

Glasses for women and men signed by the very much in vogue designer Michaël Kors. These are spectacles and sunglasses with classical frames of sophisticated elegance, with timeless rounded contours, subtle color effects, or with a more fashionable look, but always very stylish.

With models for both women and men, in retro, design, classical, and timeless styles in all shapes and materials, Vision Plus protects your eyes and ensures your stylishness with references in the field from Vogue, Stella Mc Cartney, Persol, Maui Jim, Paul Smith, Michael Kors, Persol, Rayban, and Julbo technical sunglasses... Glasses by Oliver Peoples are an obvious choice as are the fun and offbeat sunglasses by Opposit... not forgetting Oakley expertise for sports activities.

A look that fits your vision ... Classical or offbeat but always naturally elegant … the best known brands are waiting for you at Vision Plus with summer collections by Starck and Eleven Paris, not to mention Ray Ban, Vogue, Vision Plus: Summer specials Stella Mc Cartney, Oliver Peoples, Paul Smith, as Sunglasses, V-I-P collection well as Persol, Humphrey's, Air Ligh, Stepper, Michael Exclusively from Vision Plus. Frames and protective Kors, and Julbo...On the more whimsical side are sun glasses at 29 €!* sunshine colors by Pépé Jeans, Opposit’s offbeat style with citrus colors and curves, while Façon50 % off the second pair! nable reveals their refined French Riviera line, starBrand name frames in store (reduction on the ting at 180 € (frames and lenses)*. cheaper of the two pairs)* Vision Plus packages... An example: packs with frames and prescription or sunglass unifocal, scratch resistant unifocal, or anti-glare unifocal lenses at 37, 57 and 87 € *

THE

Vision + is committed to ...* Ensuring appropriate guarantees so you can be sure of making the right choice for breakage (free repairs for 2 years), maintenance, payment (payment in instalments, partner with most supplementary health insurance companies), providing quality products and services, corrective lenses made in France.

AFNOR certified. Provision of services throughout the Vision Plus network. Payment in 3 or 4 instalments with no extra charge. Third party payment. Breakage, adjustment, quality, maintenance guarantees. English Spoken

*See Vision Plus for conditions.

104, route de Cavaillon (across from Place du Marché) - 84660 Coustellet – Tel.: 04 90 05 85 51 Parking for clients in front of the shop, easy access. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2.15 pm to 7 pm.

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Coustellet | Sale and rental – Electric cars, motorbikes, bicycles, mountain bikes |

ikes, mountain bikes, 50 and 125 cm3 scooters, trail bikes, personal transporters, cars and, as from September, utility vehicles too … At Electric Move, (opened on 1st June in Coustellet) they all have one thing in common, yes, you’ve guessed it, they’re all electric! Some may say that there’s nothing new about that, yet Eric Patural and his team have been enjoying their success since the opening day and they have a lot of exclusive items! “We only rent or sell models from catalogues by prominent manufacturers known as much for their quality as for their reliability.” For their style too because Electric Move’s difference is to carry ranges that combine a very original vintage look with cutting edge technology in engines and electric batteries. Sev for the trail bikes, Italjet and its remarkable model that is a cross between a Californian beach cruiser and a 1920’s motorbike, “Vaillante”, if you want an electric mountain bike bearing the colors of the comic strip pilot, Michel Vaillant … C-zen, Noun’ and its Mini

Everywhere! Everyone! Go with Electric Move!

Moke called “nosmoke”, a nod to the environment and cars … So many ways of getting about without polluting; practical, economical and stylish, perfect for everyday use and for holidays too! Why not try them out on the nearby Calavon bicycle route, stretching from Cavaillon to Apt, between the Luberon and the Alpilles, for long but feasible outings where you explore hills, country roads,

paths and trails in comfort? Rental (you can test first) from ½ hour (you can book online), for yourself, with your family, or in a group, there are over 40 different models in different styles, all of them practical and all of them fun! Electric move is also a showroom entirely dedicated to the sale of bikes and motorbikes, to see, test and choose the model that suits you best, with expert advice, ranges

of accessories, helmets, bags, and clothes – all of them with a vintage feel and all very stylish. Our favorite was their Rec watches. Their cases are made from pieces of bodywork from authentic minis, the car with the glorious past! On site are also a workshop and a washing area for stress-free maintenance, accessorizing or repair of your bike or rental!

213, rte d'Apt - Coustellet - 84220 Cabrières d'Avignon Tel.: 04 65 30 00 10 - contact@electricmove.fr - www.electricmove.fr June and September: Monday to Saturday 8 am to 12.30 pm – 1.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Sunday 9 am to 1 pm July and August: Monday to Saturday 8 am to 7.30 pm. Sunday 9 am to 7.30 pm THE

Online reservation. Possibility of a guide for ½ days and longer

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Pertuis | Cabinet-maker and Fitter |

“

Excellence for the exceptional” has been the motto of l’Atelier des Remparts for nearly 30 years in the world of cabinet making and fitting where traditions are respected and craftsmen’s skills are passed on. This objective has been taken up by Nicole and Michel LIMOUSIN, at the head of the company since 2014, demonstrating their love of architecture, the trades that work with wood, and for the quality and the value of “work well done”. “L’Atelier des Remparts is, first and foremost, a story of collective handicraft workmanship, bringing together all the know-how of a team of forty professionals with a single aim, that of being part of unique projects for a demanding clientele, working alongside well-known architects, each with his or her specific style.” The complex road that leads to these exceptional achievements is underpinned by a veritable quality-centric approach from draft board to manufacture – l’Atelier has its own glazing and paint-

L’Atelier des Remparts … Passion ingrained in the wood

lacquer-varnish department – right up to installation in the customer’s premises. In order to meet the customer’s demands as closely as possible, l’Atelier des Remparts has an organization based on two ranges. The first is the “Signature” range for private projects, in either the “Bastide and Tradition’’ style, respecting technical and artistic techniques

projects are followed by a project manager who is in charge of quality and the signature of each of the L’Atelier contributors is required at each stage in the project. Some projects highlight tree species such as oak, walnut, lime or exotic woods. Rough sawn wood from environmentally responsible producers become windows, solid wood front doors, hardwood flooring, staircases, terraces and also walk-in closets, bookshelves, kitchens or bathrooms, either in fine wood veneer or in synthetic materials (Corian, laminate, silestone, etc.) in more modern styles, all elaborated by l’Atelier. “It’s not a question of luck, only of appointments. So let’s meet and together we can fulfil the project you are dreaming of.”

that are typical of Provence, or the “Contemporary – High Tech” style that is both modern and innovative, as much by the materials used as in the design of the projects. The ”Mercuriale” range is designed for a professional clientele – “starred” and luxury hotels, wine-growing estates and wineries, stores and businesses, listed buildings, etc. In both ranges, all of the

ATELIER DES REMPARTS

ZAC Terre de Fort - 235, rue Alain Bajac - 84120 Pertuis Tel.: 04 90 79 50 63 – Fax: 04 90 09 76 67 contact@atelierdesremparts.com www.atelierdesremparts.com THE

A network of partner craftsmen specialized in hardwood flooring, patinas, glass and glazing.

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Lourmarin | Hôtel - Restaurant - Edouard Loubet |

f Lourmarin (one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France) is rightly considered to be one of the jewels of the Luberon, the same could be said for this exceptional place located in its center. It was originally an oil mill dating from the 17th century and has been restored and converted by the Loubet family into a luxury hotel and restaurant in true Provençal style. Welcome to Le Moulin de Lourmarin, a legendary venue for top notch accommodation focussing on elegance and conviviality, as do all of Chef Edouard Loubet’s establishments. Stone walls, wooden paneling, cast iron, faïence and terra cotta create a refined and cozy atmosphere in a sober Provençal style, based on natural and noble materials. In the dining room, beside the fireplace, in the lounge, on the shaded patio, on the terraces … Le Moulin de Lourmarin can be enjoyed with the same pleasure in all seasons. Whether for a meal, a weekend, or a longer stay, you will

A day in the Luberon at Le Moulin de Lourmarin ...

real cuisine, genuine flavors, the use of fresh seasonal produce selected on the market that very morning, and highlighting local Luberon produce. appreciate the attentive and unobtrusive conviviality of the staff as much as you will the place itself. This is an open invitation to enjoy and share the moment. The atmosphere is cocooning-type cozy and permeates the comfortable 17 rooms and 2 suites

in the establishment. Why not discover it with the special offers on their Internet site or on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of Les Châteaux & Hôtels Collection® that Le Moulin de Lourmarin is a member of? The art of hospitality shines

through at Le Moulin’s restaurant in the Provençal style so dear to Chef Edouard Loubet, decorated with elegance and precision. You have the choice of 2- or 3-course menus at lunchtime, a set menu and à la carte menu in the evening, with the emphasis on

You can find information on Le Moulin de Lourmarin restaurant and hotel, and the current special offers at: www.moulindelourmarin.com

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple - 84160 Lourmarin - Tel.: 04 90 68 06 69 reservation@moulindelourmarin.com www.moulindelourmarin.com Rooms from 90 to 210 €. - Suites from 200 to 300 € depending on category and season.- The restaurant is open from Wednesday lunchtime to Sunday evening.- Menus at 26 and 30 € at lunchtime. Dinner menu and blackboard menu.

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Bonnieux | Domaine de Capelongue - Edouard Loubet |

“La Bergerie” – Good old-fashioned food

n Bonnieux, la Bastide de Capelongue has become a veritable Luberon gastronomic institution. For over a year now, chef Loubet has been serving a cuisine, an art and an atmosphere in his new restaurant “La Bergerie”. It is located at La Ferme de Capelongue, not far from his gourmet restaurant, and has an exceptional view of the Luberon and the hilltop village of Bonnieux. Located in an unspoiled site, the place is exactly as Isabelle and Edouard Loubet imagined it. La Bergerie breathes the Provence of yesteryear; its aromas of wood smoke, its realm of wooden panels and whitewashed walls, candlesticks and other daily items found here in a huge luminous dining room with cross-ribbed vaulting, opening up onto a landscaped park of 2 hectares. A cozy feeling of peacefulness draws you in to enjoy a moment of gourmet bliss in the Luberon, a place to share with friends and family … Rediscover the local flavors, signed by the chef who manages to blend elegance and simplicity. You are sure to notice the influence of, and simi-

larity with, Edouard Loubet’s other restaurants. Culinary precision and the presentation and decoration of plates make use of the textures and flavors in season. The fireplace reigns supreme alongside the renovated range. The cooking techniques and recipes conjure up earthy produce, traditions, and our mothers’and grandmothers’ cooking. Handwritten slates,

à la carte and set menus propose fresh produce straight from the market, herbs and spices, local meat and charcuterie, vegetables, fruit, cheeses from Luberon producers, all friends of the chef. From season to season, soups, Provençal starters, pizzas, pissaladières, ham boards, charcuterie, cheeses, gratins, crozets … are all served in a simple,

warm and friendly atmosphere. “La Bergerie” is the perfect place to stop for lunch when out with family, when staying at La Ferme de Capelongue, for a special theme evening, or for any type of event that you might want to organize there.

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LA FERME DE CAPELONGUE, LES CLAPARÈDES

84480 Bonnieux - Tel.: 04 90 71 04 61 reservation@capelongue.com - www.capelongue.com A la Carte & Suggestions from the slate. 2-course menu at 27€ / 3-course menu at 38€ Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays. Open 7/7 on summer evenings.

All the latest news about Le Domaine de Capelongue, theme evenings and weekends, on www.blog-culinaire-edouard-loubet.com

Gordes: a jewel in Luberon THE VILLAGE OF BORIES On the slopes of the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon mountains, the Bories village with its sheep-pens, stone bread ovens, wine vats, threshing areas, narrow alleys and “city walls” bears witness to the numerous generations of hard working people that have inhabited this place. Since the Bories (a "borie" is a stone hut characteristic of the Apt area), can be traced back to the Bronze Age, it is about 3000 years of continuity that one contemplates, the newest huts having been built in the XVIIIth century. The French Government has classified the Bories Village a Historical Monument in 1977. It is the most important group of houses of its kind in the region.

acing Mount Luberon, Gordes spirals upwards towards the limpid Provencal sky around a spectacular outcrop of rock rising from the Vaucluse hills. Its cobbled streets meander among tall houses built directly on the rock of moun- tainsides vibrant of a thousand stories and legends. Gordes is further enriched by the presence of a visual arts tradition that has inspired such painters as André Lhote, Marc Chagall, Jean Deyrolle, Victor Vasarely, Pol Mara and others.

The Village, neglected for over a century had suffered the assaults of time and was disap- pearing under the overgrowth. It had also been used as a resource for cheap building materials. Thus, it was high time to restore and preserve it. The Village, which is a rare and fine example of spontaneous architecture, is well integrated to its surroundings. This is due to the use of natu-

ral raw materials, and a design using a minimum of shapes and means. It is now under protection, yet open to visitors. Organised as a museum it shows a rural habitat and exhibits a collection of objects and tools traditionally used in the area. There is also a whole documentation on Gordes' History, the Bories and the tradition of building without mortar in France and in the world. To discover the Bories Village is a unique experience. One cannot but be touched by the harmony of the horizontal and vertical lines; the balance between minerals and vege- tation, the play between shadows and light, particularly at the rising or setting sun; time best suited for a visit. Information : Ph : (33) 4.90.72.03.48 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39 Open every day from 9.00 am to sunset. Parking: Buses: 1.7 km away from the Village, Senior Citizens: the Municipality of Gordes organises a shuttle bus, free of charge. To book the bus, please Phone: (33) 4.90.72.02.08 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39

While strolling through the old village cobbled alleys you will discover its treasures : one of them is the cellars under the Palace Saint Firmin ( Historic Monument). The surrounding leave you the choice of three exceptional sites, classed as Historic Monu- ments: the Village of Bories, the Cistercian Abbey of Senanque and the Gallo-Roman Bouillons Mill.

Gordes | Exhibition |

“Of light and stone …” Gordes castle will be hosting an exceptional exhibition entitled “De Lumière et de pierre …” (Of Light and Stone) until 30th September. The photographs on show are by Christophe Ballot and the chandeliers by de Mathieu Lustrerie.

égis Mathieu has been internationally recognized for over 20 years for his restoration work on large chandeliers belonging to the national heritage, his copies of originals, and his contemporary creations (he is particularly well-known for his work on the Galerie des Glaces in Versailles, Opéra Garnier, and Château de Chantilly). He nurtures a veritable passion for chandeliers and considers them to be works of art, creating a magical atmosphere of light. Jean Christophe Ballot is a photographer whose work focusses essentially on sculpture. He pursues suspended time and describes his work as contemplative photography. In his work he plays a four-handed score for two with the sculptors of the past and endows the stone work with elements of photographic impression, namely framing and lighting. At the origin of this encounter between chandeliers and sculptures photographed as architectural bodies, is an essential, revealing, epiphanic element … light. The architectural correspondence between chandeliers and

the photos is sublimated by the key presence of light. Subtle play between light and darkness, the harmony between the movement of light and the photo that takes life, that moves, the details of bodies fixed in stone that suddenly shudder and move: faces, hands, breasts, hips, entire bodies naked under a shroud, all those illustrious people who left their mark on his-

tory, kings and queens of France revealing themselves like models striking a pose for the artist. The weightlessness of chandeliers, the fragility of materials, these dangling jewels decked with light bring out the intensity of the bodies set in stone.

Evenings to remember … As every year, the Festival Soirées d’Eté in Gordes is an outstanding event. The Théâtre des Terrasses is located in the village itself, snuggling against the rock face and has a panoramic view over the plain and the Luberon mountain. It seats 495 and the places are laid out in an amphitheater style so that the audience can be particularly close to the artists making each show an absolutely exceptional occasion. This year’s program: 3rd August: Daniel Sidney Bechet Quintet 5th August: Surprise guest 7th August: Dino fait son crooner 9th August: Faada Fredy 11th August: Nicole Croisille 13 August: Pierre Lapointe

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Cadenet | Ironwork - Boutique du Métallier |

2JP, a metalwork artist ...

JP stands for Jean-Jacques Pichon. He’s a real artist of the kind you don’t often see nowadays. One of those who are humble when faced with materials and creation, who prefers you to take a photo of his work rather than of him. One of those who believes firmly in apprenticeship, in the craftsman’s experience, and that practice makes perfect. Yes, he’s an artisan, an ironworker and, with his son, he creates all sorts of metal interior and outdoor furnishings and equipment (staircases, balustrades, mezzanines, pergolas, verandas, conservatories, etc.). His genuineness is what made him choose to set up his studio in a small business park rather than in one of the more desirable villages in the Luberon or the Alpilles… For 2JP is not your typical artist and certain enlightened minds already hold him in great esteem. With the Boutique du Métallier, he has chosen to share his world, his visions,

his creations, and all are unique. You’ll find coffee tables, bars, stools, shelves, side tables, bureaus as well as mirrors of all shapes and sizes, clocks, bed headboards, light fixtures, even heads of animals and other, more specific, articles … Everything he makes stems from his fertile imagination and is worked with his hands to be trimmed, bent, drawn, solde-

red …in polished metal or unwrought metal that has been left outdoors to rust and then varnished or glazed to give it an effect of golden tinted contemporary paint. This is metal work, where the artist uses industrial and craftsman techniques, patiently learned and that time has allowed him to master completely, resulting in his unique signature.

As unique as each of his pieces, each of his creations (tables, furniture made entirely from metal, from wood and metal, or glass and metal), that you can have made to measure from a drawing, a photo, an idea …Drop in to discover the mind and the universe of the artist …as well as the individual!

2JP - BOUTIQUE DU MÉTALLIER

ZA les Meillères - Lots 5 & 7 - 84160 Cadenet Tel. 06 52 02 71 46 - 2jp@gmx.fr THE

An exhibition of the works of painter Adeline Dutel (www.adelinedutel.fr).

Aix-en-Provence

Ventabren

Eguilles

Salon de Provence

Berre lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Etang

Saint-Chamas

La Barben

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Salon de Provence | Restaurant |

Café des Arts, specialists in refreshing platters and woodsmoke cooking

n the heart of Salon de Provence and in the shade of La Fontain Moussue, Frédérique Le Penven and her team are ready every day with a smile and a menu full of flavor. Locally produced vegetables (a guarantee of seasonal food) from the market, fish (sea bass, bream, and swordfish depending on the day’s catch, meat (boneless rib steak, bull meat, fresh French magret, beef rib with marrow bone) and desserts that are 100% made on site (oh, that palette of desserts!) are an ode to fine fare. Before the diner’s

produce used, and the shaded terrace ensure that once you’ve been here you’ll come back again,” says a delighted Frédérique Le Penven. Colorful presentation is a bonus here. There is a choice of three sides to go with the range of savories served: fresh fries, steamed vegetables or baked potatoes with chive sauce. Holder of a Tripadvisor certificate of excellence, Le Café des Arts will delight your taste buds with home-made hamburgers, fish platters (tuna tartare, salmon tartare, smoked salmon, shrimp, home-made aioli mayonnaise, genuine surimi)… Springtime menu blackboards, refreshing salads, dishes of the day, gourmet set menus to (re)discover on the terrace or in the dining room and it’s crackling fireplace. This summer, Le Café des Arts is the only place in town to serve traditional bruschettas.

very eyes the chef juggles grilled fish and meat to produce dishes where flavor is of the essence – for the pure delight of locals and visitors alike. Add to this reasonably priced (establishment policy) wines so you can try everything according to your needs and your budget. “An excellent reception, multi-lingual personnel, the freshness of the THE

Design your own menu with the gourmet formula menu at 25.50€ (starter, main course, dessert, and an 18 cl glass of wine).

LE CAFÉ DES ARTS

20, place Crousillat (Fontaine Moussue) 13300 Salon de Provence - www.cafedesarts-restaurant.fr Tel.: 04 90 56 00 07 (it is advisable to book your table) Open 7 days a week, at lunchtime (noon to 2 pm) and in the evenings (7pm to 9.30 pm) except for Sundays (7 pm to 9 pm). Complete menu for children at 11€. Luncheon vouchers, holiday checks and American Express are accepted.

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La Barben | Zoo |

Fun and games

A paradise for young and old alike

ow that the heat of the summer has hit Provence, immerse yourself in the magical and refreshing 33 hectares of the Zoo de la Barben, where over 700 animals from 120 species await your visit for an unforgettable day, and it’s only 5 minutes from Salon de Provence. Take the little train or stroll around to discover this park rich in fauna and flora, where the live show is constant,

thanks to events that are geared towards both children and adults. Among the major attractions are the vivarium and the fascinating world of reptiles, the baby dromedaries, the monkeys and wolves born in 2015, English workshops for children, and more besides. The Zoo de la Barben has been a veritable institution for nearly 45 years and is a joy for nature lovers.

• Birds of prey demonstrations, 7/7 except for Fridays: the birds of prey are released in the countryside. • Daily meeting with the zoo keepers: friendly exchange between the specialized personnel (the zoo has 13 keepers) and visitors, discussing the various species, what they eat, etc. • 100% carnivore days from 12th to 14th July: Faced with legends about these animals (lynx, wolves, bears, etc.), the professionals “rehabilitate” them using drawings and coloring, making paw prints … and remind us why it is so important to protect them. • From one pole to the other from 19th July to 16th August: a recreational and educational show (puppet show…) for children about global warming and its consequences.

ZOO OF LA BARBEN

www.zoolabarben.com – Tel.: 04 90 55 19 12 Between Aix-en-Provence and Salon - GPS: 43.6235 N / 5.2058 Free car park. Open 7 days a week 9.30 am to 7 pm. THE

A play area for children, picnic tables, on-site restaurant

Life in a troglodyte dwelling, a timeless haven

ademoiselle Berthe left a long time ago. The time has long gone when the lonely woman, stripped of everything she had by her family, would gather plants on the hillside before going home to her grotto to light a fire. Jean Rittore recalls this period when his grandfather allowed the vagrant, who survived on local charity, to live in the “hole” that was hollowed out in 1630 and whose walls date back to prehistory. At the time, Jean was no more than a child. From the age of about 5 or so, when playing with his cousins, Jean would seem completely fascinated by this place that that was full of history and … scale deposits (2-3 mm thick). “It was Ali Baba’s cavern! Before that it was used to store furniture, cereals, clothes and even bits of cars … But I always knew that, one day, I would live there. It was my dream!” he says with enthusiasm, fifteen years after having moved into the cave. It took fifteen years and a lot of work on a near Herculean scale to create this cozy and quite unique little nest where prehistoric fossils sit alongside the wifi. A colossal worksite that needed rock breakers, wire brushes and even a backhoe loader “that we took to pieces outside and then put back together again inside the grotto…” because, a cave dwelling is worth it …

Humidity, thermal and sound insulated! “When I’m worried or when I wake at night, I open my eyes and let my imagination roam over the ceiling …And the view over the glittering Etang gives much food for thought the whole day long, all year round,” continues Jean Rittore, a lover of sculpture and hiking. It’s a soothing panorama that gives a feeling of wellbeing. The walls shield you from the cold (as well as from damp and outside noise) and keep the place at a constant 19°C. No air-conditioning, no heating, no CMV (other than the natural air flow due to its east-west orientation), and the shelter also has great sunlight exposure: in the summer, the sun goes right over the hill so you don’t suffer from the heat and in winter the sun floods the living room… And all of this just delights Jean, a Marseille-born lover of Saint-Chamas. He has never denied how much he loves the place and he likes to talk about it in the small room built in the rock next to his home. Some would call it a guest room, he prefers to consider it as a place of meditation… reflecting on history and prehistory. by Rémi Lacassin

For an exceptional vacation At a time when women still gave birth at home, Richard Ravel was born in a grotto near Jean Rittore’s one, bought in 1910 by his grandfather who worked at the gun-powder factory in Saint-Chamas. “It was used for storage and later served as a shelter during the war and, finally, as a home. We brought it up to standards in the 90s”, explains Richard who lives in Vitrolles with his wife Sylvette.

The world over Troglodyte: a member of any of various peoples (as in antiquity) who lived or were reputed to live chiefly in caves according to Merriam-Webster. True troglodyte dwellings came about in the Neolithic period of prehistory. Whether a seasonal or permanent shelter, they were fashioned in the rock whereever the geology and climate permitted. They can be found in Asia, the Middle East, Africa, America, the South Pacific and, of course, in Europe – in other words, on every continent! From Provence to the Loire Valley, from the Dordogne to Picardy, France abounds in troglodyte dwellings … 16

The apartment nestling in the rock is a holiday rental that can be found on a specialized website, Abritel. It is an ideal location for an unusual vacation in the heart of a picturesque village. The visitors come from France, Canada, Australia, Belgium and many other places besides. “You sleep really well in there. Even turbulent children become calm and sleep well due to the positive energy it gives off”, Sylvette and Richard tell us. 20°C in the summer and the winter alike, with no air-conditioning or heating, it’s a dream come true…

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Mallemort | Tourisme |

Heritage and nature trails

hanks to a range of accommodation that is as rich as it is diverse (camping sites, bed and breakfast, furnished apartments, holiday lodgings, luxury hotels, etc.) Mallemort is the annual focal point for nature and history lovers. The bilingual plan from the Tourist Information Bureau (it can also be downloaded from their website) helps curious visitors explore the local points of interest in Mallemort, a town that is surrounded by the Alpilles, the Luberon and Mount Saint-Victoire. Typical Provençal landscapes can be admired from the viewpoint indicator at the highest point of the village. From the foot of the keep (all that remains of the castle of the bishops of Marseille, destroyed and pillaged during the Revolution … and that later served as building material for houses in Mallemort), the panorama is breathtaking. Looking down over the banks of the Durance River, the Prise dike and the old suspension bridge on one side and the hills of the Alpes de Haute Provence on the other, it encompasses all of Mallemort’s past. A past that can be told during a one-hour stroll through the town center from Eglise Saint-Michel (built in the 18th century) to the former Rue du Presbytère via the keep; a veritable discovery of the architectural heritage that blends so well with the wilder aspects of the town. The suspension bridge was built under Louis-Philippe, spoiled by floods and damaged by bombing in WWII, and is the crossing point between the village and nature. Local ecotourism is inspired by Durance River, a breeding ground for migratory and local birds (more than 200 species identified to date). Creatures that bird watchers come right to the edge of the water, bordered by the famous Durance pebbles, to observe. A biological diversity that can be explored by heading for the fishing site at La Roubine des Vernégaux (take the D23 in the direction of La Roque d’Anthéron), where there are picnic tables and that is accessible to disabled visitors. Another place that is a favorite with hikers is Le Gros Mourre, an area of garrigue crossed by the GR6 hiking trail that stretches from Merindol to Alleins via the village center.

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Evening market every Tuesday From 7th July to 25th August, the center of Mallemort becomes the heart and soul of summer with much animation around exhibitors’ and craftsmen’s stands from 7 pm to 11 pm. The shops in the Rue Fernand Pauriol and the nearby streets remain open so you can stroll around in the cool of the evening and rediscover the village or try a Provençal culinary specialty (a different one every week). The other major summer events are: A world music and choir festival on 4th July, a dance and fireworks display on 14th July and the Fête des Moissons (harvest festival) on 18th July, a traditional ball on 1st and 15th August, and a piano recital “La route de la Durance aux Alpilles” on 11th August… Tourist information bureau: 04 90 57 41 62 contact@mallemortdeprovence.com www.mallemortdeprovence.com THE

A tourist information flyer in English and bicycle tour from the Tourist Information Bureau

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Les-Baux-de-Provence | Contemporary art | Eguilles | Cooperative winery |

Ben, "art must be original and deliver a punch”

An organic rosé that is perfect for summer

acked by expertise dating from 1923 and continued by impassioned growers, the Cellier d’Eguilles has numerous Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence PDO wines (85% of the winery) as well as Bouches-du-Rhône and Mediterranean PGI wines. However, this year there is a new feature - the Domaine des Baoux 2014 wines are certified organic. The red is full-bodied, and composed of cabernet, carignan and syrah. There is also a fruity rosé based on syrah, grenache and cinsault, that won a silver medal at the “Amphore” international contest for organic wines in Paris. It goes marvelously well with summer food, from cocktails to grilled meats, from salads to carpaccios … Other rosé wines from the cooperative winery (40 small producers in Puyricard, Aix, Saint-Cannat and Eguilles on 220 hectares) were award winners in 2015: Le Sieur d’Eguilles won a gold medal at the Vinalies Internationales contest and a silver medal at the

ince 1st April, the Musée Brayer has been host to contemporary art and humor in the form of Ben, one of the major 20th century artists. Not only has the work of Benjamin Vautier (famed as Ben) given rise to numerous publications and over a hundred exhibitions the world over but he has also reached a much broader audience with a series of school items signed with his name, BEN. In his own words, Ben will sign anything that isn’t already signed: “holes, mysterious boxes, kicks, God, chickens, etc.” connecting art to life, explaining that everything is art and that everything is possible with art, that there are no barriers between daily life and art. Waxing poetic about life or utter trivialization of art? The visitor can make up his own mind at this exhibition which, as its name suggests, is a moment of humor and of good humor.

Concours Général Agricole in Paris where the Ophélie vintage took the bronze. Though the Cellier d’Eguilles production is mainly rosé wines, there are wines for red wine lovers too. The Blason Pourpre vintage won the silver medal in Mâcon. These are wines that go well with the local products (tapenades, terrines, condiments, honeys, preserves, etc.) that are also on sale in the shop; this is an opportunity of taking home a souvenir of Eguilles, a village that is typical of the Provençal way of life. An authentic rural setting that combines discovery of local history, trails through the vines, visits to the winery, and … a day harvesting grapes the old-fashioned way! The event continues with wine tasting and a meal in midSeptember. However, the number of places are limited so book now! While waiting for the day to come round, choose your gift box either already prepared or make it up yourself.

BOUTIQUE AND CELLIER D’EGUILLES

30, avenue du Père Sylvain Giraud 13510 Eguilles - Tél : 04 42 92 38 19 Email: celliereguilles@orange.fr Order on www.lecellierdeguilles.fr Facebook.com/pages/Le-Cellier-dEguilles Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm, Sundays from 9 am to 1 pm.

"IL FAUT EN RIRE" (“YOU HAVE TO LAUGH”) BEN

Musée Yves Brayer From 1st April to 15th August Open every day from 10 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm Entry: Adults 5€ - Groups 3€ - under 18 years free Musée Yves Brayer, Tel.; 04 90 54 36 99 – www.yvesbrayer.com

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wines in 3, 5 and 10 liter capacities. + Boxed Parking spaces reserved for customers

Les Baux-de-Provence

Saint RĂŠmy de Provence

Graveson

Maussane-les-Alpilles Tarascon

Aureille

MouriĂ¨s

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Saint-Rémy | Les Terrasses de l'Image |

Maillane | Floral design |

What’s cooking? A great work policy … Fleurs de Mistral - originality in a class of its own

hat of a cuisine based on seasonally available fresh food, using nothing processed and only local ingredients – serving only food made with ingredients raised, produced, or fished within a radius of 200 km. It’s a concerned view of the present and the future alike, accepting no compromise on taste, diversity and creativity. Chef Christophe Chiavola points out that Les Terrasses de l’Image has their own kitchen garden and that the first radishes and early spring vegetables are bringing crunch and delicacy to a refined cuisine rich in vegetables. His signature is much appreciated by the finest palates accustomed to eating in this extraordinary restaurant in the Alpilles. At lunchtime or dinnertime, there are Chef’s Suggestions, Ephémère dishes (from 19€), lunch menus (30€) and the Instant gourmand (45€), and an à la carte menu to choose from – on the theme of bistro foods with more elegant dishes for dinner, including classic dishes revisited or born of the moment. The whole team is involved in putting the daily delivery to good use. Each dish is crafted according to the available produce, making the most of the flavors, so as to better surprise lovers of good food. This was the fate of the magnificent Bluefin tuna that was caught yesterday, the John Dory fresh from

olande Roussel set up business in the village two years ago and is fluent in one of the most beautiful languages in the world, the language of flowers. She has passion and talent, no doubt inherited from her landscape gardener grandfather and her mother, a keen flower enthusiast. Now that she’s nearing 40, she decided to share her secret garden with us, a place where she gives free rein to her creativity, Fleurs de Mistral. Creativity and imagination inspired by the techniques of a major Parisian florist school, and by some fascinating encounters too, contribute to her totally different view of floral art. Let’s begin with her shop, it’s a village house steeped in history and decorated with cut flowers, house plants, outdoor plants, and seasonal arrangements. It’s an unusual shop that feels like home; a place where you can take

the coast, the lamb from the Crau-Alpilles region, the first strawberries... These are whims and ideas of the moment to rediscover with gusto whether the occasion be large or small, in a cozy dining room with dabs of color or, of course, on the terrace overlooking an astonishing park, a natural setting in the heart of Saint-Remy. Thursdays see casual and chic musical evenings in the cocktail lounge with drinks before diner or just for the simple pleasure of relaxing with friends or family.

FLEURS DE MISTRAL

12, avenue Lamartine - 13910 Maillane Tel.: 09 83 58 52 08 - 06 15 64 47 77 Facebook: Fleurs-de-Mistral-by-Rolande-Roussel Open on Mondays from 3 pm to 7pm, and on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 7pm. Sunday opening from 9.30 to 1 pm. Open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays on appointment only.

RESTAURANT LES TERRASSES DE L'IMAGE 36, bd Victor Hugo 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel.: 04 90 92 51 50 reservation@hoteldelimage.com www.hotel-image.fr Open every day for lunch and dinner.

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Eygalières | New |

Les Sentiers de l’Abondance, a veritable ode to nature

spiral of aromatic plants, an orchard, a square of fresh herbs, an osier bed, pollen-producing wildland, a maze of medicinal plants, a kitchen garden … 1.5 km from the village , the theme gardens in Les Sentiers de l’Abondance are an enticing invitation to peacefulness and well-being. Aesthetic, educational and productive, these vast landscaped gardens are open to the public for guided tours and workshops (cosmetics, cooking, crafts, etc.) to better transmit the world of plants, their medicinal properties and their flavors. After three years dedicated to the creation, layout, development of the plants, the founder and owner of Mas des Boeufs, Marie Falquet, is delighted to inaugurate this unique 3-hectare estate in the heart of the Alpilles regional natural park. It is a veritable ode to nature in 3 trails – botanical, poetic, and taste and discovery. When they accepted support from the Arles region “Leader” program, Les Sentiers de l’Abondance turned the spotlight on the exceptional plant wealth and natural and agricultural environment of the Mediterranean massif. Their approach combines aesthetic endeavor with ethical obligation to promote traditional expertise, culture techniques and irrigation (1.6 km of canals on site!). For this reason, planting respects biodiversity and organic agriculture, illustrated by the processing plant (Lab’bio). A number of local restaurant owners, hoteliers, mills, distilleries, producers and stores are already associated with the project. 100% natural produce “bas-

kets” can be found every Friday morning in the market in Eygalières. Another place worth visiting is the tiny “Table des Sentiers” where, on Friday and Saturday mornings, you can indulge in a menu based on garden produce devised according to the inspirations of Chef Pierre Louis Poize from the restaurant Sous les Micocouliers.

LES SENTIERS DE L’ABONDANCE

Mas des Bœufs - D74A - 13810 Eygalières Cell: 06 22 36 61 83 info@lessentiersdelabondance.com www.lessentiersdelabondance.com Facebook.com/EarlLesSentiersDeLabondance Guided tours: at 10 am on Fridays and at 10 am and 5 pm on Saturdays (from June to October) for groups of 6 persons and over (8 €). Workshops on the 1st and 3rd Saturdays of the month. THE

the time to discuss, make your choice, and find out what you need to know. “I have every sort of bouquet, arrangement, and customized wreath for your life events …” explains Rolande, while emphasizing the quality and freshness of these (she receives several deliveries per week). The quality of her work has made her name and it is carried from one flattering customer to another. “I make my choice according to the tastes of my customers and, naturally, from the flowers and plants that are in season. In summertime, succulents are very much in demand.” We would love to spend time strolling through Rolande’s world to discover her remarkably original plant creations and micro-gardens - green walls, wall tubes, driftwood supports, lanterns, jars, glass gardens, … We were particularly taken with the Christmas tree revisited as a flower arrangement and the flower cake! Come and be enchanted by this magical atmosphere where flowers reign supreme.

herbs, seasonal produce + Fresh and local specialties for sale 19

art lessons for yourself or as a gift + Floral (5-6 persons maximum), gift cards, etc.

Outings in Provence Fête de la Vannerie Every year in the month of August (8th and 9th this year), Vallabrègues holds La Fête de la Vannerie (basket-weaving festival). It’s a European festival and a great opportunity to discover the activity. On the agenda are weaving workshops, a medieval garden, processions and lots more. 35 basketmakers from the world over and 35 craftsmen attend the event every year. Town hall: 04 66 59 20 52 - fetedelavannerie.com Avignon Festival From 4th to 25th July, Avignon will be the national capital for culture: dance, theatre, exhibitions, children’s events, cinema, concerts, videos, and more besides. There will be events and shows in the town and its architectural heritage will become performance venues. The atmosphere will be festive with a twist, between unknown participants and stars … Don’t miss the nuggets from the Festival OFF (fringe festival) with talented independent companies. Tel.: 04 90 27 66 50 - www.festival-avignon.com Blessing of the Calissons The traditional Blessing of the Calissons takes place on the first Sunday of September in Aix-en-Provence every year to the sound of local pipes and drums. The 20th edition will be held on 6th September and will be accompanied by demonstrations of sugarprocessing and calisson-making. The statue of NotreDame des Calissons is carried from the Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur to the Place des Quatre-Dauphins by the elite of the profession in full ceremonial dress. www.benediction-calisson.com

Melon Festival On the 11th and 12th July, Cavaillon will, once again, become melon capital in a huge popular festival with producers, restaurant owners, craftsmen, cooking competitions, various events, tastings, recipes, etc. The event combines the pleasures of the melon with the passion of the bull-fighting world. Abrivado, roussataïo, bodegas, peñas, games for children, and processions. A dance and firework display will round off the festive weekend. Office de Tourisme: 04 90 71 32 01

Nego Chin A mi-chemin entre sport et culture, le Nego Chin est un spectacle à part entière, à découvrir tout l’été sur les bords de la Sorgue. Nego Chin boats are part sport and part culture. They are a spectacle in their own right and can be seen all summer long along the River Sorgue. These are former fishing boats that participate in friendly races in the town of L’Isle sur la Sorgue. The Nego Chin boats will be present at the Féerie Nautique (14th July) as well as at the old-fashioned floating market, and will also take part in contests on the river much to the joy of tourists and locals alike. The dates to remember are 14th, 19th, 27th July and 2nd, 8th, 15th, 22nd, and 23rd August. www.negochin.fr

International Piano Festival 77 concerts, 4 piano evenings, 12 orchestra concerts, 6 jazz concerts … the 35th edition of the international piano festival in La Roque d’Anthéron will be held from 24th July to 21st August. The venues are in the park at the Château de Florans, the cloister at the Abbaye de Silvacane, Cucuron, Lourmarin, Rognes, Gordes, St-Martin de Crau, Mimet, and Aix, for the enjoyment of lovers of piano, harpsicord, organ and jazz music. Boris Berezovsky, Anne Queffélec, Renaud Capuçon, Trio Wanderer and many others will be playing. www.festival-piano.com

Fêtes Votives In Provence, every town and village hosts their annual fête votive (village festival) with pride. In the Alpilles, the festival of Saint-Eloi (patron saint of blacksmiths, carters, goldsmiths, gunsmiths and also … of donkeys and horses) is a veritable institution. When summer arrives, traditional festivities flourish in parades of carts, all highly decorated and brightly colored, to the music of local fifes and drums. 4th and 5th July in Châteaurenard, 11th and 12th July in Rognonas. Contact the tourist information bureau for further information.

National Heritage Days Created in 1984, these will take place on 19th and 20th September. This year, the theme will be “21st century heritage, tales of the future”. This 32nd edition will be an opportunity for tens of thousands of visitors to discover public and private buildings that open their doors just for these days, revealing what is behind the scenes as well as their “secret” collections. www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr

Foire à la Brocante Just a year before its 100th anniversary, the Foire à la Brocante Art & Antiquités (art, antiques and second hand goods fair) in L’Isle sur la Sorgue should once again draw over 100 000 visitors between

Thursday 13th to Sunday 16th August. This is a summer happening that is not to be missed by bargain hunters and art lovers. The event receives over 200 exhibitors associated with the 250 shops in the town. Besides the antique and second-hand dealers, book sellers and artists exhibit their goods and works as do designers who specialize in 20th century furniture and vintage items. www.foire-islesurlasorgue.com Fête des Olives vertes Mouriès is the number one oil producing town in France and will be welcoming lovers of olives and Provençal produce to the 43rd edition of the Fête des Olives Vertes (green olive festival) on 21st and 22nd September. It will be a festive weekend in the Alpilles with art and craft exhibitions, sale and tasting of local produce, aioli making contests, and music. The main highlight will be the world olive cracker (with a glass) contest and the Provençal procession through the streets of the village. Maison du Tourisme de Mouriès: 04 90 47 56 58. Trophée des Maraîchers On Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th September, fruit and vegetable producers and bullfighting aficionados will be flocking to Châteaurenard to celebrate a tradition that started in 1965. With half a century of history behind it, the Trophée des Maraîchers (market-gardeners trophy) will include cooking demonstrations from carts in the streets, a 5-meter high pyramid of fruit and vegetables, a procession of lights, abrivado, and the Course des As (a bloodless bullfighting game) in the arenas with the very best players. Office de Tourisme: 04 90 24 25 50.

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Saint-Etienne du Grès | Vineyard |

rom 3rd July to 29th August, Domaine Dalmeran will be putting on an exhibition, “Grandeur Nature” where nine artists will leave their mark on this remarkable place located on the north-west slope of the Alpilles, surrounded by pine forest, vines and garrigue and swept by the Mistral. It is a vivid landscape with romantic overtones that leave their trace in the park, in the greenhouse, on the castle terrace, in the chapel and all around the vineyard. For it is here, just a few kilometers from Saint-Rémy-deProvence, that Béatrice and Neil Joyce have breathed new life into enotourism, taking an original look at their passion for wine. “We have been winegrowers here in the Alpilles since 2006. We promote personal awareness, a hedonistic approach to wine to promote the beauty and the diversity of the Alpilles”says Béatrice. Domaine Dalmeran has many features. It was built on a hillock covered with Gallo-Roman remains and bordered

The magic of art and wine takes root at Domaine Dalmeran Nature work her magic. It is but a small step from culture to agriculture, and it will be taken during the traditional “Déjeuner sur l’herbe” on 25th July in the presence several artists. Chef Olivier Scola (Ze

Bistrot in Aix-en-Provence) will be the culinary host of the event, providing gourmet meal platters in this lush green setting in an elegant and relaxed atmosphere.

In praise of local produce Throughout the summer and on reservation only, Domaine Dalmeran will be hosting mini-workshops (4 to 8 participants) to present their wines with the gastronomical wealth of the Alpilles: goat cheese, tomatoes, vegetables, strawberries... A whole range of produce from the Alpilles and their vegetable garden will be presented to broaden awareness of the know-how of local producers, of the flavors in Provençal culture, of respect for nature …

DOMAINE DALMERAN by the former Via Domitia and has been living and breathing vines and olives since 1531. For a summer wine the owners recommend the“rosée de saignée” delicate on the palate, ideal with food that is light and creative, traditional or unusual. The

white with its broad range of aromas is a surprise to the taste buds. Lovers of red wine are sure to appreciate the Chateau 2007 and 2009 vintages (gold medal winners at the independent winegrowers’ contest), true expressions of a vineyard full of

character. Discovering a vintage over several different years is another Dalmeran particularity – they treat the grapes with care (harvesting is done by hand) and then let Mother THE

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Saint-Rémy | Restaurant |

Château des Alpilles, the pleasures of a poolside lunch

ow could one not be captivated by this 19th century manor carefully set in a haven of greenery on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy de Provence? The period décor is superbly restored and combines with contemporary furniture to give that subtle blend of comfort and luxury that is known as the Château des Alpilles. This five star establishment where your table must be booked in advance is also a must for its simple yet refined cuisine, much appreciated by those in the know. Whether you decide to lunch by the pool from a summer menu (a different one for every day of the week) or dine on the hotel’s enchanting terrace under the plane trees, facing the majestic avenue, Chef Mathias Bettinger and his team have vibrant recipes of Provençal inspiration for a real moment of pleasure. This year, le Château des Alpilles added a private sports room with the best of Technogym equipment (running machine, bike, and Kinesis) for use by residents on reservation. And even if the summer proves to be hot, those who are sensitive to cold will appreciate the heated pool. As you can see, though the hotel may seem like an elderly, but well-to-do, manor but is in reality a very modern, chic and elegant establishment.

LE CHÂTEAU DES ALPILLES ★★★★★

Hôtel - Restaurant Route du Rougadou - 13210 St-Rémy de Provence Tél : 04 90 92 03 33 chateau.alpilles@wanadoo.fr www.chateaudesalpilles.com Facebook.com/lechateaudesalpilles Restaurant by reservation. Closed on Wednesday evenings. A la carte menu and gourmet set menu at 49 €.

THE

fitness room (rowing machine, running + The machine, bike, barbells, etc.) can be privatized 21

45, avenue Notre-Dame du Château (formerly route du chemin d'Arles, between Saint-Etienne du Grès and Saint-Rémy de Provence, via Le Moulin du Calanquet) 13103 Saint-Etienne du Grès – Tel.: 04 90 49 04 04 www.dalmeran.fr - www.facebook.com/domaine.dalmeran.1 Open 7/7 from 10 am to 12.30 pm and from 3 pm to 6.30 pm (by appointment only on Sundays)

Discover the wines from their LA CELESTIERE estate (PGI Vaucluse, Côtes du Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) - www.lacelestiere.fr

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Maussane | Provençale Cuisine |

Jean Martin - from gourmet nibbles to local specialties

ecommended by the Guide du Routard, the Jean Martin store invites foodies and lovers of Provence to discover their latest innovations among their 100% guaranteed artisanal products. The mild cream of garlic can be savored on toast with drinks, as a sauce for meat or fish, or even as a subtle base for a vinaigrette dressing. Another very popular spread this season is the cream of chick pea seasoned with preserved lemon and Ras el Hanout (spices used in couscous); discerning palates will serve it with a fillet of mackerel on a chunk of crusty bread. In the cooking aids department (much appreciated by enthusiastic chefs in search of inspiration), are Provençal-style tomatoes cooked with parsley and garlic - highly recommended for savory tarts. Products created from the experience that Jean Martin (established in Maussane-les-Alpilles in 1920) enchants our taste buds with can also be served at aperitif time with a range of spreads – red pistou, cream of artichoke, mild anchoïade and cream of sweet peppers - as well as for cooking with. Other treasures from the Mediterranean and Provençal regions are Barbier cooking utensils made

of olive wood. A rainbow of color to bring texture, warmth and personality to your summer meals … that blends perfectly with the new “made in France” collection of oven-proof ceramic dishes! With both good taste and lots of color, this summer promises to be a good one with Jean Martin.

JEAN MARTIN

9, rue Charloun Rieu 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 34 63 - www.jeanmartin.fr facebook.com/jeanmartin.fr Special offers all year round in the store and on the website. Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm. THE

ideas (regional produce, artisan + Gift tableware, etc.) for all the family