Scott Avett
ON TOURING + CHEERWINE
7 trains
FOR FALL FOLIAGE
Spooky Savannah america's most haunted city
Southern Fare and Wine Pairings
Virginia Terroir
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OCTOBER 2012
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and Earthkeepers are trademarks of TBL Licensing LLC or its affiliates. Š 2012 TBL Licenisng LLC. All rights reserved. Timberland,
The EarthkeepersÂŽ Apley boots and fitted leather jacket. The boots are 100% waterproof with a recycled PET lining. The jacket is constructed using the highest quality leather. Traditional craft. Forgotten by most. But not by us. See the collection at womens.timberland.com
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breathe magazine
table of contents
editor in chief
features
Marissa Hermanson marissa@readbreathe.com
contributing writers
15 Dinner with Friends
Cara Kelly Colleen Oakley Jennifer Schingle Jessica Schneidman Amelia Walton
Southern fare and wine pairing menu
20 The Old & New
copy editor
Thibaut-Janisson sparkling wines
Beth Waldman
art director
22 The Spooky South
Megan Jordan
senior designer
America's Most Haunted City, Savannah
Amanda Powers
associate designer Lauren Walker
contributing photographers Amanda Powers Kristin Luna Megan Jordan
15
27 The Thrill of the Railroad 7 train trips to see fall foliage
IT director Craig Snodgrass
digital media coordinator Chase Lyne
publisher Charles Leonard charles@readbreathe.com
president Blake DeMaso blake@readbreathe.com
account executives Dusty Allison: dusty@readbreathe.com Martha Evans: martha@readbreathe.com Leah Woody: leah@readbreathe.com Nick Noe: nick@readbreathe.com Amy Allison: amy@readbreathe.com
business manager Melissa Gessler
22
12
distribution manager Chuck Grigsby chuck@readbreathe.com
departments
contact us 116 West Jefferson Street Charlottesville, VA 22902 434.817.2755
5 Food Fall fig and gorgonzola pizza
56 College Street, Suite 303 Asheville, NC 28801 828.225.0868
7 Books Southern Gothic literature
Š 2012 Summit Publishing, LLC. To carry Breathe in your store call 434.817.2755.
cover
8 Beauty Treat your skin to oatmeal
Amanda Powers & Megan Jordan ŠBreathe Magazine, readbreathe.com * Special thanks to our cover models and hosts! *
27
10 Style This season's leather jackets and boots
12 Q&A Scott Avett of the Avett Brothers 30 Travel Visit Knoxville, Tennessee October 2012
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food
FIGS you should know Figs are rich with sweet fall flavors and are great for preserving, drying or eating fresh. Be sure to add this nutrient-packed fruit into your diet this season.
Varieties to look for Black Mission: dark purple skin, pink flesh Kadota: yellow-green skin, purple flesh Calimyrna: greenish skin, amber flesh Brown Turkey: purple skin, red flesh Adriatic: light green skin, pink flesh
Text By marissa Hermanson Recipes by Jennifer Schingle The sweet, pear-shaped fruit is an excellent source of minerals, vitamins and dietary fiber. Anti-oxidants include vitamins A, E and K, which together help rid the body of harmful free radicals that cause cancers, diabetes and other chronic illnesses. Research suggests that the chlorogenic acid found in figs helps lower blood sugar and control blood-glucose levels in type 2 diabetes. Another study suggests that women who eat fiber-rich fruits such as figs (also apples, pears and dates) can reduce their risk of breast cancer. A handful of figs can help jump-start your metabolism. The fruit contains B-complex vitamins such as niacin, pyridoxine, folates and pantothenic acid, which help metabolize carbs, proteins and fats. And, even better, the low-cal fruit is a great source of dietary fiber, helping with weight management. Nutrients in figs will help you score well on your blood tests, too. Potassium helps control heart rate and blood pressure, copper boosts red blood cell production and iron increases red blood cell formation and oxidation.
Fig, Arugula and gorgonzola Pizza
Sources: USDA, George Mateljan Foundation’s World’s Healthiest Foods, Nutrition and You
Serves 4
1 whole wheat pizza crust 6 to 8 figs, sliced 1 cup gorgonzola cheese crumbles 1 cup ricotta cheese 2 tbsp olive oil, divided 1 lemon (zest and juice) 1 cup balsamic vinegar 1 tsp sugar 1/4 cup chopped sweet onion 2 cups arugula 1 tsp salt and pepper 1 tbsp butter
To select and store Figs perish quickly, so it’s best to purchase one or two days in advance. Make sure they are rich in color and soft – not mushy or bruised. They should have a sweet smell. To store, keep in the refrigerator for two days. Figs bruise easily, so to avoid mushing, don’t stack. Cover and wrap to ensure freshness. For dried figs, store in a cool, dark place or refrigerator for six to eight months.
1. Preheat the oven according to package instructions. 2. Simmer the balsamic vinegar on the stovetop until it has reduced (about 5 minutes). Stir in the sugar and add the sliced figs. Set aside. 3. In a separate bowl, combine the ricotta, 1 tablespoon olive oil and lemon zest. 4. Spread the ricotta mixture on the pizza crust. 5. In a skillet, cook the onions and butter until the onions caramelize. 6. Top the pizza with the sliced figs, onions and gorgonzola. 7. Bake according to pizza crust instructions (for about 10 minutes). 8. While the pizza is cooking, toss the arugula in the remaining olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Dress the pizza with the arugula before serving. Drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the reduced balsamic vinegar and serve. October 2012
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books
Southern Gothic Southern Gothic, a
speed reader?
Go to readbreathe.com/southerngothicpicks for additional Southern Gothic reads and recommendations!
subgenre of Gothic fiction, uses dysfunctional and eccentric characters, decayed settings, and bizarre and sinister events to explore social issues in the American South. — mH
theater A Streetcar Named Desire
Tennessee Williams’ Pulitzer Prize-winning play, “A Streetcar Named Desire,” was first performed at the Barrymore Theatre in New York City on Dec. 3, 1947, and was turned into a feature film in 1951, starring Vivien Leigh and Marlon Brando. The Warner Bro.’s film recycled nine of the actors and actresses from the original Broadway play, except for the star actress. Vivien Leigh was chosen to play Blanche DuBois after her role as Scarlett O’Hara in “Gone With the Wind.” The story is set in a poor neighborhood in New Orleans and opens with Blanche visting her younger sister, Stella. Stella and Blanche have a heartwarming reunion, but Stella’s husband, Stanley, is suspicious of Blanche’s eccentric personality, damselin-distress act and believes she is lying about her reasons for visiting. Tension builds between Blanche and Stanley during her visit as Stella tries to keep everything amiable between the two. Blanche thinks Stanley is common and a brute, and Stanley thinks Blanche is an immoral woman. Through hearsay, Stanley finds out the truth about Blanche’s visit and why she fled her hometown, and attempts to shame her with the truth, driving her out of town and away from Stella.
short stories Flannery O’Connor: The Complete Stories
novel Swamplandia!
Karen Russell’s "Swamplandia!" is a bizarre and somber song for the Everglades. The Miami native makes the ominous Everglades magical and surreal with her eccentric characters and strange narrative. The story is told by 13-year-old Ava Bigtree, whose family runs a gator-wrestling theme park in the Florida Everglades. With the passing of Ava’s mother, their star gator-wrestler, Ava makes it her mission to save the family business as they all become dysfunctional. Ava’s sister starts dating ghosts, her father (Chief Bigtree) pulls away and her brother abandons them to work for another theme park, The World of Darkness, on the mainland, leaving Ava alone and forcing her to grow up. The story is morose, but also humorous. Ava takes you on a wild adventure through the Everglades where she meets mysterious characters and searches for The Underworld. The second half of the book is a rollicking ride, and you can only hope Ava gets out alive.
Thirty-one of Flannery O’Connor’s stories are compiled in chronological order starting with “The Geranium” and ending with “Judgement Day,” a revised version of “The Geranium” sent to her publisher before her death in 1964. O’Connor’s stories give you a peek into the South during the mid 1900s with racial tensions, prejudices and grotesque characters. Her short stories have an ominous feel from the get-go, with gloomy imagery and bizarre character interactions, giving you the uneasy feeling that something peculiar is on the brink of happening. O’Connor died at 39 from lupus, but left behind a treasured collection of stories that won the National Book Award for Fiction in 1972, and that was named Best of the National Book Awards Fiction 1950-2008. Her more popular works are her novel, “Wise Blood”, and book of short stories, “A Good Man Is Hard To Find.” October 2012
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beauty
The Oatmeal Rx
It isn't just the perfect fall morning treat — oatmeal is the latest skincare ingredient to boost your beauty factor.
— Colleen Oakley
There’s nothing like a warm bowl of oatmeal on a chilly autumn morning to fill you up and keep you going all day long. But it’s not just for breakfast anymore — applied topically, it can be the perfect treat for your skin, too. “Oats have long been used for enhancing the quality of skin,” says Randi Ragan, holistic lifestyle expert and owner of the Green Bliss Eco Spa (greenblissecospa.com) in L.A. “They are chock-full of phytonutrients and antioxidants, which help keep you glowing and youthful.” Oatmeal is also high in zinc, she says, which helps the healing process of the body and skin, so oatmeal is a great ingredient for treating acne, as well as itchy skin rashes like poison ivy. And ground up, the texture of oatmeal becomes a great exfoliator. So put down your spoon and pick up one of these oatmeal-infused beauty products to keep your skin healthy all autumn long.
PRODUCTS worth USING
DO IT YOURSELF: Apple exfoliating mask
Skip the beauty counter and make your own oatmeal skin treatment with this recipe from Randi Ragan, holistic lifestyle expert and owner of the Green Bliss Eco Spa (greenblissecospa.com) in L.A. This dual-action scrub rids the skin of dead cells and the apple juice tightens and tones. Honey has natural anti-microbial properties and works with the oatmeal to calm inflamed skin. HOW TO: Mash oats, cornmeal and honey into a thick paste with a fork. Combine with the apple pieces in a food processor or blender until smooth. Apply in a circular motion on face and then let sit for 20 minutes. Rinse with warm water.
2 tbsp. Rolled oats
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1½ tsp. cornmeal
1 tbsp. honey
(any sticky syrup will work)
½ apple,
peeled and cut into chunks
Lather Up: This Breakfast Bar soap by Tracey Gurley is made with ground oatmeal and local honey; it’s a perfect exfoliator for your whole body. $6, traceygurleybathandbody.com Mask It: Reduce redness and fight wrinkles with the Kantic Brightening moisture mask by Alchimie Forever. Oats are combined with wild pansies to speed the recovery of distressed skin and calm irritation, while antioxidants from grape extracts protect the skin from environmental stressors. $60, alchimie-forever. com Smooth Operator: The Wholesome Body Lotion from Joa Bath and Body is made with oats and honey, is unscented and hydrates as it nurtures. $16.95, joabathandbody. com Face Off: The Oatmeal Papaya Face Wash by Dirty Beauty Skincare is a soap-free concoction that gently exfoliates without over-drying. $18.95, dirtybeauty.com Bath Time: This three-in-one Milk & Honey Wild Oats Soap Tartlet by Dolce Bella is made with organic milk powder, coconut butter and coconut milk and is finished off with organic wild oats for a unique combo that exfoliates, moisturizes and protects the skin. $7.95, dolcebellaorganic.com
We’re for
Dawn Johnson Esmont Heart Patient 2009
Sometimes, we’re not just for treating illnesses, but the threat of them. That’s why doctors like Dr. Amy Tucker collaborate with the top minds across specialties to bring heart disease prevention to neighbors like Dawn. Because no matter what innovations we develop, they’re only meaningful when they keep Dawn active and on the daily walks she loves. UVA. We’re for Charlottesville, and more importantly, the people who live here. | uvahealth.com
style
Leather or not, here it comes … BY Cara Kelly
Few items in a woman’s wardrobe are as timeless as a leather jacket. From the Schott Perfecto to Yves Saint Laurent’s creations for Christian Dior and Kate Moss’s work at Topshop, the item has become a staple on par with trench coats and black sheaths. The garment’s perennial presence, versatility and durability qualify it as an investment — a piece that will balance a substantial expense with the number of times it is worn. Choosing a jacket with a high price tag that could last for a decade, however, is a daunting task. “If you’re going to spend that much money on one item, you want to absolutely love it,” Élan Image Management’s Natalie Jobity says. “You should feel good in it, it should fit you to perfection.” Jobity recommends starting with an analysis of garments already in a wardrobe as well as personal preference. “Timelessness is determined by one, the love you have for the item, and two, its fit with your personal style,” she says. In her book, “Frumpy to Fabulous: Flaunting It,” Jobity divides personal style into seven categories: the traditionalist, outdoorsy, sophisticate, seductress, romantic, diva and eclectic. While the sections are not mutually exclusive, they provide a solid starting point that can be useful while shopping for big-ticket items. Romantics should look for jackets with feminine cuts and softer lines, while someone with an eclectic bent should look out for statement details like zippers and rivets. Divas may be drawn to an item with sleek, architectural designs, and the traditionalist a conservative style with minimal details. All buyers looking for a garment that will transcend several years should be wary of elements that will date a piece. Trends such as color blocking, a style en vogue over the last two seasons, can be easily identifiable as out-ofdate once the popularity has faded. Bomber and motorcycle jackets have become classics in American fashion, Jobity says, and are fairly safe bets. Helmut Lang re-envisioned several fitted moto jackets in his Fall 2012 collection, while oversized 10
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and asymmetrically draped leather was the center of the Proenza Schouler show in New York. Alexander Wang made a solid vote for leather this fall by dressing Gisele Bündchen in a full-length version with a gaping slit and thigh-high boots, a harsh but sexy look that might not translate off the runway, but will certainly have women lusting for leather looks for evening this season. The capacity that the jacket will be worn is another crucial element. “If you are going to have one jacket, you want to make sure you can wear it many places,” Jobity says. A mid-length jacket that ends at the top of the hips will easily transition from a casual look with dark jeans to a formal look that can provide edge to a cocktail dress. Cropped varieties can also be appropriate for the office over a pencil skirt and silk blouse, or with black riding pants and a T-shirt. The quality of leather and fit are the concluding factors in the process. Lambskin and cowhide are the two most common materials; lambskin is more supple and can look dressier but it carries a higher price. Megan Evans, personal stylist and owner of The Well Coiffed Closet, suggests checking that the leather is smooth on both sides and looking for a consistency in the cut of the hide. “Also, check that the stitching isn’t dull, which will indicate that it is cotton. It’s best to have bonded nylon stitching, which will keep the coat together better,” Evans says. “Check the stress points, like elbows and pockets for strength. You don’t want them to stretch." Faux leather has also come en vogue as of late, with a variety of goodlooking options emerging under labels such as Free People and Donna Karan. When looking into faux materials, Evans advises buyers to steer clear of anything with too much sheen. Most importantly, Evans says to shop around. “Try on a number of different leather jackets before you settle on one. And enjoy the process: It should be fun because, at the end of the day, it will be a piece you wear probably more than anything else in your closet over time.” Kellyn leather jacket $818; joie.com
timberland Earthkeepers® Apley Tall Waterproof Boot $250; timberland.com
Sorel conquest Carly Boots $220; sorel.com
patagonia Tin Shed buckle $200; patagonia.com
KEEN Akita high boot, $180; keenfootwear.com
ISABEL MARANT Dicker suede ankle boots $580; net-a-porter.com
These boots were made for walkin’ Once the novelty of the mesh neck and mouth covers wore off at the Alexander Wang Fall 2012 runway show, the truly captivating accessories — pairs of knee-high heeled leather boots — began to take the spotlight. Mixed alongside mid-length skirts with slits that exposed enough skin to break up monotone ensembles, the footwear added an element of sleek sophistication and even a touch of practicality for women who must brave a winter chill. The curtain-heeled style at Givenchy and sparkly fishnets at Versace helped solidify the knee-high shaft as a trend this fall. A departure from the thigh-length styles that dominated a few seasons ago, the height encompasses a variety of options from riding boots to chunky heels and moto-inspired looks. “If I were only buying one boot this season, it would be the perfect knee-high boot — either with a stacked heel or a flat boot, depending on which you would wear most,” says Alison Lukes Teer, a stylist and personal shopper based in Alexandria, Va. Teer suggests focusing on a classic shape and structure when shopping for an investment piece that will transcend seasons. Riding boots have become a staple for autumn months, and when looking for a traditional shoe that will last, Ralph Lauren is a mainstay. His tribute to "Downton Abbey" and the English countryside in his Spring 2012 collection drove home a nostalgia for days of fox hunts and riding parties. Elizabeth and James, likewise, did a play on a rugged riding boot with lightly distressed leather and raised seams at the toe and ankle line. The mid-calf length pairs perfectly with skinny jeans or a thick pair of leggings, Teer says. The London Olympics similarly brought international attention to British fashion. The rainy weather that dominated the city’s
DV JuJU Boot, $119; dolcevita.com summer reinvigorated an interest in Hunter Wellingtons — the classic rain boots worn by British soldiers in WWI and WWII and endorsed by the monarchy. But one of the more pervasive trends this season is booties. Ankle-length varieties have been popular for years, but velvet and textured boots are being paired with cocktail dresses and short hemlines in new ways. At the spring Balmain show, models walked in black booties and gold embroidered mini dresses with matching boleros. Dree Hemingway executed the look flawlessly at the 2012 CFDA awards in a Creatures of the Wind silk pleated dress and Wind silver patent leather boots, showing enough sophistication for a night of mingling with the style elite and a sufficient edge to keep it interesting. “Textures [both in skins and details] are huge for fall, as are crystal or studded embellishments,” Teer says. “Color is also a huge trend. Look for reds, blues, grays and varying shades of taupe and brown and dazzling metallic.” Marc Jacobs' petrol-blue leather booties with gold stud closures are a chic option to transition from summer dresses to skirts and opaque tights. DV by Dolce Vita has a similar look in velvet with side zipper for a more reasonable price. But for comfort and versatility, the Isabel Marant “Dicker” ankle boot is a must-have item. Celebrities like Diane Kruger, Katie Holmes and Kate Bosworth have sported the low heel everywhere from music festivals to running errands around town. Similar pairs with lower price tags have been popping up everywhere from Asos to Nine West and Steve Madden, making it easy to incorporate fall’s essential shoes into an existing wardrobe. — CK October 2012
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The album was finished a year ago for us, creatively, and to present it and allow it to live and breathe, it starts now. — Scott Avett
Scott Avett on touring, family & cheerwine
We caught up with Scott Avett while he was on tour to chat about the band’s new album, “The Carpenter” — just released last month — and their Legendary Giveback concert with Cheerwine on Oct. 19 in Charlottesville, Va. Scott also opens up about writing music and what’s on the band’s agenda for the rest of the year. — MH You all just released your new album, "The Carpenter." What’s been the feedback from fans? SA: The album was finished a year ago for us, creatively, and to present it and allow it to live and breathe, it starts now. We start performing these songs live and it’s the second chapter. That’s a very different perspective for a fan. They’ve just now been offered this thing all at once, which is something we’ve been living with for about two and a half years. And before that, the songs began to write themselves, so it’s a way 12
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different perspective for me than for someone who just purchased the CD, and how amazing it is for them at first. For a person, any of us, we make our opinions on something at first listen or tenth listen, and I’ve listened to these songs hundreds of times. My perspective is so different. I can’t put too much time into worrying or celebrating.
Are you guys incorporating a good mix of the songs from the new album into the tour? SA: We’re bringing them in now. The main focus and priority each night is not to sell the new songs on
people but to craft a set that is representative of us, that represents where we are. We’ve been eager to play many of those songs live. We don’t want to neglect the older material because that’s an essential part of what we do and what our art is.
Where did you draw inspiration for the new album? SA: I guess not much has changed with us over our 10-year, 11-year life — whatever it be in the band. It’s always just been about our personal experiences. It’s about living life and growing and changing — and that’s the common theme, inspiration and concept for each song. And as many facets as there are in life for one person, not to mention millions, there’s plenty of material there. We haven’t shut off any avenue to be inspired in any department in our lives. It’s in all departments: it’s in retrospect, it’s in present states, it’s in dramatic and it’s
in sad and angry — and all types of moments of life. We really just write about our daily experiences.
You and Seth grew up in Concord, N.C., and now you are raising your kids there. What made you want to stay in the area? SA: There are things I was very appreciative of with the way I was brought up and very thankful for, and I can't help but fight the urge to try and imitate that a little. Concord is very near and dear to me.
You and Seth are on the road a lot, and you have a wife and kids. How do you balance family life and music? SA: It’s truly one day at a time. There are ways that I’d like to see it go, things I’d like to see continue, and I project and speculate that I will maintain the family interaction, family life — and the only way to do that is one step at a time. We
just try to approach each challenge that comes with it individually and with high paths of communication with one another. They occasionally will come out and visit with us, but work is very demanding for us. It’s a total balance like anything. And there’s certainly a pull. We know we physically need to be there and present, without a doubt.
How did you all get involved with Cheerwine to create the Legendary Giveback concert that’s coming to Charlottesville? SA: I did some voiceover work for Cheerwine — some commercials. I went to college first for art and then radio broadcasting and then back to art. Art was really the calling, but I was sidetracked with radio broadcasting. When I had an opportunity to work with Cheerwine on their radio campaign, I saw it as a really awesome opportunity to exercise some of that practice. They also originate from Salisbury, N.C., which is just 10 to 15 miles from our house. They have a very strong family-oriented business sense and they put a lot of care into it — how they present themselves and market themselves — and that is admirable to us. The concert is an opportunity to be involved in something charitable that a big group of people can be involved in. No one person is taking credit for it, which is so important. We saw a good opportunity to throw in a chance to be generous. … Everybody was born to help something, and I just say let’s just spread it as well as it can be spread. If someone needs help and they ask, then there’s no reason to question that.
We’re very excited the Legendary Giveback concert is going to be here in Charlottesville. Last year we saw you here and Langhorne Slim opened for you. SA: The first time we saw Langhorne in New York City in 2003 he just sat down on a stool and just delivered lifechanging songs. And I was like, “My gosh, this guy is born to be a star.”
What do you guys like to do when you all are in Charlottesville? SA: In the past, we’ve done lots of walking and eating at some great places that we just stumbled upon. We just kind of follow our noses and go. It’s hard to say how any trip turns out. We play at so many places. Every stop in a town, even the same town, it’s a different angle every time we go. The perspective is always changing, so who knows. We’ll see.
What’s on the agenda for the rest of the year? Are you all doing more touring or recording? SA: We’ll tour up to November and we’ll probably do some TV appearances through the early winter months. Then we reconnect with our families for the winter. I imagine during the winter months we’ll probably start putting together the many new songs that we’ve been seeing come to life. I think it’s time for us to make a new album. So we’ll probably start doing that. It’s always happening and the way we tour, it’s hard. You need quiet space. You need focus time to inventory what has happened and what has been written. And when we go back, we find mounds of songs started and fragments started, and it’s really terrific to have the time and let those songs be made at home.
A GREAT HERITAGE OF ARTS & AGRICULTURE. BOTH ARE ROOTED IN APPALACHIA. abingdon is famous for its love of the arts — visual, performing and even culinary. local chefs are creating masterpieces every day with fresh and delicious local ingredients. visit our website for a list of participating restaurants, inns and retailers.
GIVEAWAY FOR BREATHE READERS Win “The Carpenter” album, a Legendary Giveback Avett Brothers T-shirt and two cases of Cheerwine. Proceeds from the Legendary Giveback will support Operation Homefront, Big Brothers Big Sisters, and UVA Children’s Hospital. To learn more about the cause, visit cheerwine.com/giveback. October 2012
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of W - G I V EA
AY -
EARTH K EE P ER S 速 A P LE Y TALL W ATER P ROO F
EARTH K EE P ER S 速 BETHEL B U C K LE TALL Z I P
AND BAG!
THIS
EARTH K EE P ER S 速 AL P INE TALL W ATER P ROO F
r e a d b r e at h e . c o m / t i m b e r l a n d
A P LE Y S HO P P IN G BA G
womens.timberland.com
dinner Southern Fare & Wine pairing Menu
by Marissa Hermanson
with friends
recipes by Taylor Troxell October 2012
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e threw a fall feast to celebrate Virginia’s terroir, coupling regional wines with traditional Southern food. Follow along with our pairing guide to create a delicious autumn spread.
wines that made our list Bubbles
Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Blancs Made of 100 percent Chardonnay from the Monticello Appellation, this crisp and refreshing wine has vibrant aromas of pear and ripe apples. whites
White Hall Chardonnay This Chardonnay has a lively, fresh acidity with a hint of oak flavors. It has pear aromas, a palate of citrus and melon, and a crisp apple finish with hints of vanilla.
Blenheim Viognier This Viognier has scents of honeysuckle and soft notes of apricot and pineapple with a bright but smooth citrus finish.
Jefferson Vineyards Pinot gris This white wine has light, crisp mineral aromas with floral notes and a bright acidity. RedS
Pollak Meritage This full-bodied wine has silky tannins and sound acidity with flavors of blackcurrant, black cherry and leather.
DelFosse Vineyards Petit Verdot This full-bodied red has hints of vanilla and oak flavor, and has aromas of blackberry, vanilla and a hint of violets.
ChÂteau Morrisette Cabernet Franc This lush red wine has wild berry and cedar aromas with plum and black cherry flavors. 16
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After Dinner
King Family Loreley This sweet yet tart dessert wine was fermented and aged in oak and acacia barrels. It has floral, tangerine, quince, sesame and mushroom notes.
King Family Seven Made in the traditional Porto style, this port wine is made with 100 percent Merlot, is fortified with brandy and aged in Kentucky Bourbon barrels.
Whole Bone-In Chicken
Savory Fig Jam
whole bone-in chicken (8 pieces) 2 cups all-purpose flour salt and pepper 2-3 cups Italian-style bread crumbs 3 large eggs, lightly beaten olive oil cooking spray
2 tbsp unsalted butter 1 small shallot, minced 1/2 cup port wine (we used King Family Vineyard’s Seven 2010) 6 fresh figs, finely chopped 1 fresh sage leaf salt and pepper, to taste
8 pieces
1. Remove chicken from refrigerator and pat dry. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Allow chicken to sit on your countertop until the chill from the refrigerator is gone (20 to 30 minutes). Preheat the oven to 425 F with the rack positioned in the middle of the oven. 2. Lightly coat a cast iron skillet with olive oil spray. Set up your dredging station by filling three pie pans, one with the beaten eggs, one with the flour and one with the bread crumbs. 3. Dredge the thighs, wings and legs in flour, egg and finally bread crumbs. Use your hands to pat the bread crumbs onto the chicken if necessary. 4. Place the dark meat pieces (legs, thighs, wings) into a 12-inch cast iron skillet, being careful not to let them touch in the pan. Lightly spray the tops of the breaded chicken with olive oil spray. 5. Bake the chicken for 20 minutes then carefully flip the chicken pieces over using tongs. Bake another 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 160 F. Let the chicken rest 5 minutes on a cooling rack placed on top of paper towels. The internal temperature of the chicken should come up to 165 F. 6. Follow these same steps for the breast, but use a separate cast iron skillet if baking them at the same time as the dark meat, as they will take a bit longer to bake. Flip the breast after 25 minutes and continue to bake for approximately 25 minutes more. The breasts should be removed when the internal temperature of 160 F is reached. Allow to rest 5 minutes. TIP: When taking the internal temperature of the chicken, use a digital probe thermometer; if you have the type that can stay in the oven while the chicken bakes, even better. Be sure that the probe is inserted in the thickest part of the meat and does not contact any bone.
WE APPRECIATE YOU! Special thanks to our friends at Whole Foods in Charlottesville, Va. – Jan Van Deventer for selecting our wine pairings and Taylor Troxell for creating these delicious recipes.
medium-low heat. Add the minced shallot and sauté until tender. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Add the port and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Add the chopped figs and simmer, reducing for 1 to 2 minutes.
1. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium to
3. Add fresh sage leaf and remove from heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter and stir to melt. Season the jam and serve.
Pungo Creek Mills Spoon Bread
Upside-Down Bananas Foster Skillet Cake
1 cup Pungo Creek Mills Indian Cornmeal 1/2 cup flour 1/3 cup sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp salt 3 well-beaten eggs 1 stick butter 2 cups water 2 cups milk Preheat oven to 400 F. Bring butter and water to a boil. Pour hot mixture over dry ingredients and stir well. Stir in beaten eggs and milk and mix well. Pour into a greased 8 x 12 casserole dish and bake for 30 minutes.
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus 3 tbsp 3 tbsp rum 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 1/2 cup loosely packed brown sugar, plus 1/2 cup 2 large eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp salt 1/4 tsp cinnamon 1/8 tsp allspice 1/8 tsp nutmeg 1 1/4 cups mashed bananas, plus 2 bananas, sliced 1/3 cup milk
Brown Ale & Greens
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. In a small bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg. Set aside.
6 bunches collard greens, stems removed and leaves chopped 1 smoked ham shank, meat trimmed from the bones 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, diced 22 oz Legend Brewing Brown Ale 1 cup Kitchen Basics low sodium chicken stock Pinch cayenne pepper 1/4 cup turbinado sugar salt and pepper, to taste 1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavybottomed pot; add the shank bones and meat. Sauté until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and caramelize, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. 2. Turn the heat to medium high. Add half of the collard greens, chicken stock and the bottle of beer. Stir with tongs or a spoon, and let it wilt some before adding the rest of the greens. Stir until the greens are mixed with the liquid and add the cayenne pepper, turbinado, salt and pepper. Turn down the heat, cover and let cook for 30 minutes or until greens are tender.
2. Heat a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat and add 3 tablespoons butter to melt with the rum. Whisk in 1/2 cup brown sugar and add the sliced bananas to the bottom of the skillet in a single layer. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, remove from heat and set aside to cool. 3. In a large mixing bowl, use a whisk to evenly combine the 1/2 cup melted butter and granulated and brown sugars. Whisk the eggs and vanilla into the butter and sugar combination until the texture becomes smooth. 4. In a separate bowl, combine the dry ingredients and stir until evenly mixed. Add the dry ingredient mixture to the first bowl, stirring to combine with wet ingredients. Mix in mashed bananas and then the milk. Stir to evenly combine. 5. Pour this batter into the cast iron skillet over the bananas. Spread evenly with the back of a spoon. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, using a toothpick to make sure the interior of the cake has set and cooked through. The cake should be golden and set in the middle. Let cool for 5 to10 minutes. October 2012
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VIRGINIA
W
WHERE LOVE GROWS
ine travel in Virginia offers a rare combination of the sensory delights that flavor-seekers love. Imagine savoring a crisp, delicious Viognier as you watch the afternoon sun set over the Blue Ridge mountains. Or enjoying Cabernet Franc and a quiet moment together along the shores of the Chesapeake Bay. Or gathering with friends to discover new varietals, basking in the comfort of a tasting room to rival any stylish restaurant. Connoisseurs and novices alike will agree – the best way to enjoy a journey through Virginia’s more than 200 wineries is to pace yourself. You’ll find dozens of wine trails to lead you from small, family-owned vineyards offering lovingly crafted artisanal wines, to thriving wineries producing award-winning efforts year after year.
Make a winemaker’s dinner the highlight of your trip with a travel package, or plan your visit around an event or festival. Wineries throughout the state are well-practiced in the art of Virginia hospitality, offering live music and special experiences like kayak tours and hot air balloon rides to make your visit truly unforgettable. In addition to lush scenery and breathtaking views, you’ll have a chance to explore quaint small towns and Virginia’s famed historic sites. This is your moment to take a deep breath and relax – and enjoy a culture that blends tradition and each year’s harvest to create new moments for you to savor. And yes, they have figured out how to bottle this experience. The wines you take home may prove to be the best souvenirs ever.
Old�New
bubble
making in Virginia
by Jessica Schneidman
For winemaker Claude Thibaut, the stateside half of the Thibaut-Janisson traditional method sparkling wine label, being the toast of the booming Virginia wine industry is cause for celebration. Just don’t tell him you like his Champagne. “Sure, I could call it ‘Champagne,’ but then I could never go back to France!” says Thibaut with a laugh. The strict commandments of enological law prevent any sparkling wine bottled outside of Champagne, the north east province of France’s wine country, from bearing that hallowed stamp. Not even Thibaut and his partner, Manuel Janisson, who both grew up on vineyards in the region and descend from long lines of Champenois vintners, dare drop the name. The two men are lifelong friends and had always talked about one day seeing their names side by side on a glossy label. Thibaut first learned the art of turning grapes into celebration on his father’s 5-acre Grand Cru (“great growth,” the highest level of classification) vineyard and spent the next 25 years on vineyards in France, Australia and California; while Janisson honed his skills in managing and financing the operations of his family’s internationally distributed winery, Champagne Janisson & Fils. Thibaut was recruited to Virginia in 2003 by the late Kluge Estate to lead in the creation of a sparkling wine, and in 2005, with the experience in place and enough contacts made, the time felt right to finally branch out on their own. Nearly a decade later, after adjusting his tastebuds to Thomas Jefferson’s terroir (a noted wine-lover himself), Thibaut has become known by many of the most discerning sippers as the sage of Virginia wine. According to Frank Morgan, of the popular vinoblog Drink What You Like, “Claude has influenced — either directly through consulting/winemaking or indirectly from his expertise shared with the industry — most sparkling wine production here in Virginia.”
The Bubbly Thibaut-Janisson retails two varieties of non-vintage bubbly — the Virginia FIZZ and the Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay — which are bottled in leased space on the Veritas Winery and Vineyard in Afton, Va. Both bottles contain less than 1.5 percent residual sugar, classifying them as Brut, the driest of sparkling wine’s potential designations. The FIZZ is a zippy, more affordable option, retailing at just over $20 per bottle, made from riper grapes for a creamy mouthfeel, less yeastiness and lower bubble density. Less acidic Bruts, such as the FIZZ, are lovely when mixed into cocktails like the classic mimosa, brightened with a dash of bitters or sweetened with a splash of fresh fruit shrub. 20
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The Blanc de Chardonnay, priced just under $30 a bottle on average, is the wine Thibaut says he “would like to be remembered for,” as well as the one first lady Michelle Obama is reported to have enjoyed at the White House State Dinner in 2009. The Blanc boasts a gorgeous golden color, packed tightly with carbonation. Though very dry, it is bright with a floral nose and sweet flavors of tart green apple, lemon and honey, and is perfect for pairing with almost any entrée, especially lighter summer fare, such as fresh fish and grilled vegetables. Both sparklers are made in the “méthode champenoise,” the meticulous process that employs a double fermentation, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle, dégorgement (removal of the yeast sediment) and dosage (liqueur added before the final corking). The process undoubtedly has been modernized from the time Thibaut’s great-great-grandfather was pressing grapes, though the bones of the process remain from the time Champenois Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon was experimenting with bubblies in the late 17th century. An automated “riddling” machine, for example, which Thibaut uses to gently rotate the yeasted bottles onto their tip (“sur pointe”) to settle the yeast sediment for removal, saves him from the labored process of slowly turning each by hand. Traditionally, Champagne may only be made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes. Thibaut uses 100 percent Chardonnay — grown on four farms in the Monticello region — primarily for its ability to keep a preferable sugar to acid ratio in the sometimes extreme heat of the Piedmont’s harvest conditions. “I love the spring here,” Thibaut says, “and I don’t mind the winter, but the summer? I don’t care for it — I am not a real farmer!” The notorious swelter of summer afternoons in Virginia and the threat of tropical storm season can potentially ruin crops for the region’s winemakers. Whereas the summer temperatures in northeastern France reach highs of only about 65 degrees Fahrenheit in July and August, it is not uncommon for growers in the Piedmont to harvest just as the sun comes up, or even before, to avoid their grapes from over-ripening. Despite the climatic challenges, Thibaut is quite happy to be pressing grapes in Central Virginia. He enjoys the closeness to the music, art and culture of Washington, D.C., where he used to travel weekly, “Though it is not like Paris.” Bien sûr. Another advantage according to Thibaut: “You don’t have to pay your way onto the winelists of three-star restaurants,” or
Sure, I could call it ‘Champagne,’ but then I could never go back to France! — Claude Thibaut
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give your wine away sub-cost, as is often the case in trying to break into the competitive French market. He also finds retailers and restaurateurs here more accepting of new, smaller labels — if your wine is really good, that is. Thibaut-Janisson currently moves about 2,000 cases per year; and when asked if he hopes his distribution will proliferate, Thibaut grins and says simply, “Why not?” Of the more than 200 farm wineries in Virginia, only 14 currently produce a sparkler, adding to the demand for Thibaut’s wines. “It’s like you’re a racehorse,” Thibaut says of the push to expand, “but you can’t quite go as fast as you want.” The bottleneck being the expense and time-consuming nature of the traditional methods, and space; sparkling wine will optimally age for two years, and storage is limited, even in the cavernous cellars of the Veritas winery. Ideally, the pair would like to move 4,000 to 5,000 cases per year — still a modest yield considering that “small-sized” wineries by California’s standards produce up to 50,000 cases per year, and extremely modest in comparison with behemoths like E. & J. Gallo winery (the largest in the world), which produces 75 million. Perhaps the most exciting element of the Thibaut-Janisson philosophy is Thibaut’s belief that sparkling wine should not be reserved solely for the mile-marking celebrations of graduation, birth and marriage. Rather, it should be thought of, as it is in France, “as a highly versatile wine that pairs well with an assortment of foods and can stand on its own as a daily pleasure and petite indulgence.”
FREE admission to 150 artists from across the country. One of the East coast’s finest shows of original art for the past 40 years. Sample wine from some of the areas best wineries.
October 2012
21
South The
Spooky
Travel Savannah
by Marissa Hermanson 22
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photography by Kristin luna
t
he Hostess City of the South, brimming with chatty Southerners and reciprocity, also just happens to hold the title of America’s Most Haunted City, a moniker given to Savannah by the American Institute of Parapsychology for its poltergeists, human possessions, hidden cemeteries and ghost sightings. With Bonaventure Cemetery, home of Southern Gothic writer Flannery O’Connor, and the Mercer Williams House as inspiration for John Bererdt’s non-fiction novel “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” Savannah is the perfect place to embrace the spooky South. savannah’s birth
Savannah is America’s first planned city, designed by General James Oglethorpe, whose ship Anne landed on the banks of the Savannah River in 1733. Oglethorpe named the 13th colony “Georgia” for England’s King George II. The city of Savannah was created as a buffer, protecting South Carolina from the Spanish in Florida. Oglethorpe designed the city in a grid system with 24 squares (now 22), making the city walkable and perfect for sightseeing. The 22 lush squares are meticulously manicured and are home to live oak trees with drooping Spanish moss, pink ombre azaleas and monuments celebrating Savannah’s history. At the heart of the historic district is Forsyth Park with walking paths and a giant central fountain on 30 acres.
get the goods
Nourish Natural Bath Products (202 West Broughton St.) is your go-to for bath and body products, aromatherapy and candles. The family-run business makes eco-friendly, nontoxic and biodegradable body products. They also have a baby line. nourishsavannah.com C’est la vie at The Paris Market and Brocante (36 West Broughton St.). Purchase bath and beauty products, jewelry, home and garden décor and antiques. Marvel at the one-of-a-kind curated treasures from markets around the world. The shop and window displays are works of art on their own. theparismarket.com Savannah Bee Company has two downtown locations (104 West Broughton St. and 1 West River St.), as well as the bee factory outside of the historic downtown on October 2012
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Wilmington Island (211 Johnny Mercer Blvd.). The shop sells honey for the grill, cheese and tea, as well as honeycomb that is produced from their very own beehives on Wilmington Island. Savannah Bee also produces a line of body products ranging from Royal Jelly Body Butter to beeswax hand salves. savannahbee.com ShopSCAD, Savannah College of Art and Design’s shop, (340 Bull St., corner of Bull and Charlton streets) sells the funky and artistic wares made by the college’s creative students. The shop is located in Poetter Hall (originally Preston Hall), SCAD’s first building and historic restoration project. Purchase fine art — prints, paintings and drawings, sculptures, photographs and fibers — as well as handmade jewelry, fashion and home décor. shopscad.com
tours Historic Walking Tour
Savannah’s historic district is seen best by foot. Get the history behind Savannah with an hour and 45-minute tour from Sellers and Higgins. sellersandhiggins.com
eat & drink
Standing in the line that snakes down West Jones Street is well worth it for a seat around one of Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room’s big round tables. The restaurant (107 West Jones St.) serves the best traditional Southern fare in town. Settle in with strangers and enjoy plates of fried chicken, collards, mac ‘n‘ cheese, candied yams, okra and tomatoes, pickled beets, black-eyed peas, mashed potatoes, rice and gravy and cole slaw. The menu changes daily. mrswilkes.com
Day Trolley Ride and Night Ghost Tour
Spend the day getting off and on the trolley with Old Savannah Tours as you see the best of Savannah. Or opt for a night tour to hear the historic haunts of Savannah. oldsavannahtours.com The Tea Room (7 East Broughton St.) is open for lunch and afternoon tea. “A proper tea” includes an assortment of finger sandwiches, scones and preserves, and fruit served along with your teas. The gift shop sells fine loose-leaf tea grown from around the world. savannahtearoom.com Back In The Day Bakery (2403 Bull St.) will satisfy sweet and savory palates alike. All the treats are made in small batches from scratch — tarts, breads, pastries and cupcakes. Also, the owners recently published a cookbook, “Back In The Day Bakery Cookbook,” where they share their recipes and baking secrets. backinthedaybakery.com Leopold’s Ice Cream (212 East Broughton St.) has been around since 1919 and still makes the same topsecret, delicious ice cream recipes. The shop is run by Hollywood movie producer Stratton Leopold, who was born and raised in Savannah and came back to reopen the ice cream shop in 2004 to carry on his family’s legacy. The ice cream shop also serves soups and sandwiches for lunch. Try the cream cheese and olive and the pimiento cheese sandwiches; and for dessert, go with an ice cream sundae. leopoldsicecream.com For dinner, head over to Alligator Soul (114 Barnard St.). To start, order tempura frog legs or carpaccio, and for dinner choose from a traditional Southern entrée, such as shrimp and grits, fresh seafood or wild game. alligatorsoul.com Enjoy views of the Savannah River as you dine at Vic’s on the River (26 East Bay St.). Start with an order of fried green tomatoes, crawfish beignets with Tobasco syrup or Oysters Rockefeller. Dinner entrées include jumbo crab cakes, flounder po’ boys, lamb shanks and Southern meatloaf. End with the peanut butter ice cream sandwich ... if you have room. vicsontheriver. com
historic spots
The Mercer Williams House (429 Bull St.) was originally designed for Confederate General Hugh W. Mercer, great-grandfather of musician Johnny Mercer. General 24
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bed & breakfasts With more than 45 historic inns in Savannah, there are plenty of places to choose from, but here’s our top picks. Azalea Inn and Gardens
Mercer began construction in 1860 but because of the Civil War, construction was put off and then later completed in 1868 by another owner. In 1969, Savannah restorationalist and antiques dealer Jim Williams purchased the house. In 1981, Williams was arrested for the alleged murder of his assistant and love interest, Danny Hansford, and was later tried four times and then finally acquitted. He died in the home, and rumor has it in the exact same spot where Danny Hansford was shot dead. The Williams trial was the centerpiece for John Bererdt’s non-fiction novel “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” a must-read before visiting Savannah. mercerhouse.com Visit the childhood home of writer Flannery O’Connor (207 East Charlton St.) to learn about her Catholic upbringing, family life, struggle with lupus and how she grew from a precocious and peculiar child into one of America’s best fiction and Southern Gothic writers. Then walk across the square to the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, where Flannery O’Connor attended mass as a child. flanneryoconnorhome.org This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Girl Scouts, a perfect time to visit the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace (10 E. Oglethorpe Ave.), founder of the organization. And from Oct. 28 through Nov. 4, the city of Savannah will host events for Juliette Gordon Low’s 152nd birthday celebration. In the 1950s, after Low’s passing, the house was scheduled for demolition; but just in the nick of time, local Girl Scouts came to the rescue, raising money from troops around the country to save the house. Now the home draws more than 17,000 Girl Scouts from 90 countries around the world to hear about Low’s life and the history of the organization. juliettegordonlowbirthplace.org The Bonaventure Cemetery was made popular in the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” and where musician Johnny Mercer, poet Conrad Aiken and famous military generals are buried. The cemetery is open every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. bonaventurehistorical.com
Located in the Forsyth Park area, this inn has a pool, gardens and private balconies. Enjoy a full breakfast, afternoon appetizers and wine, and after-dinner sherry as part of your stay. azaleainn.com Dresser Palmer House
Built in 1876, this 11,000-square-foot townhome has a giant front porch and back terrace. Full breakfasts and a nightly wine and cheese reception are included in your stay. dresserpalmerhouse.com Green Palm Inn
Located in Savannah’s Landmark historic district, this restored 1897 seaman’s cottage is decorated as a cozy tropical getaway. Full breakfast, wine and afternoon sweets are part of your stay. greenpalminn.com Zeigler House Inn
Situated on the scenic Jones Street, the rooms in the inn have mini kitchens stocked with complimentary goodies. Stay includes continental breakfasts served in suite. zeiglerhouseinn.com October 2012
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The Thrill of the
Railroad by Amelia Walton
October 2012
27
magine riding comfortably through the rolling ochre-colored autumn hills, taking in the fall foliage and dreaming about a slower, simpler time. While you might be able to accomplish this feeling from a lazy car ride on a cool fall day, nothing will call on the powers of nostalgia like taking a trip on a train. The Southeast is home to many wonderful train trips, ranging from the old-time vintage feel of a classic diesel strolling along the James River for an hour to a romantic overnight getaway in the Great Smoky Mountains. With the train comes an inherent desire to unplug and slow down, to take care in packing a picnic basket full of cinnamon and spice fall-flavored treats and an unparalleled thrill from the novelty of it all. This fall, Breathe invites you to take a morning, a day or a weekend to leave all of your 21st century cares in your inbox and strike out an adventure that is sure to make an impression. Leave your car keys behind and let your heart fall into the soft rhythm of the train wheels chugging down the track as you point to the sweeping gorgeous colors of the changing leaves and marvel at the long train snaking along the tracks behind you. Dine in style in first-class accommodations, or round up a group of friends to sit on a classic wooden bench in an open-air car and see the world chug on by. Delight in the historic depots where you start and end your journey, and don’t forget to get swept up in the memories that the mountains hold of a time when there was nothing faster or more powerful than the locomotive. No matter which trip you take, definitely don’t forget your camera; this will surely be an adventure to remember. We’ve rounded up a couple of our favorite fall foliage trips for you to consider. All aboard! Autumn Leaf Rambler
The Three Rivers Rambler
Everyone in the family will delight in this one-hour ride along the picturesque James River. Starting at the beautiful historic depot in Dillwyn, the train offers coach seating or open-air sightseeing cars. Picnic lunches are encouraged and the lovely autumn sightseeing tours are the perfect way to enjoy fall with the whole family. odcnrhs.org
This quaint train experience boasts a 1925 steam engine name Lindy or a newly unveiled 1890 steam engine. Passengers are encouraged to bring their own picnics and take in the beautiful scenery and history of a railway experience that is truly straight out of the history books. Three Rivers Rambler is operating on a weekend schedule, so make sure to look at their website before planning your trip. threeriversrambler.com
Dillwyn, va.
Durbin and Greenbrier Valley Mountain Rail Adventures
Elkins and durbin, W. va.
Enjoy the beauty of West Virginia from either the Elkins or Durbin Depot on one of four trains. This adventureloving railway offers five Mountain Rail Adventures that include, but certainly aren’t limited to chugging up some of West Virginia’s steepest mountains, following its tranquil rivers or navigating two of the sharpest mainline curves in the United States. Make a date out of it and take in a show at the nearby American Mountain Theater, enjoy a rare but fully refurbished steam engine or reignite the mystery of childhood on the Polar Express. mountainrailwv.com 28
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knoxville, tenn.
Big South Fork Scenic Railway
Stearns, ky.
Enjoy scenic views along the Kentucky & Tennessee Railway, a 16-mile, threehour trip into the Daniel Boone National Forest and Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. The train descends 600 feet into a gorge before stopping at the Blue Heron Mining Camp. Ticket also includes a visit to the McCreary Country Museum in Stearns. Two special haunted trains run in October. The Haunted Hollow Express (for big kids) on the last two Friday and Saturday nights of the month. Listen to spooky ghost stories and view ghoulish scenes along the railroad track. For younger children, a Trick or Treat Train runs Oct. 13. bsfsry.com
My Old Kentucky Dinner Train
bardstown, ky.
Make it a fall dinner (or lunch) to remember on this refurbished 1940s train. Enjoy a romantic four-course gourmet meal as the world passes by outside on a beautiful two and a half hour tour of the Kentucky countryside. This luxe Bardstown, Ky., experience is the perfect mix of modern convenience and vintage flare. Learn more at kydinnertrain.com.
Great Smoky Mountain Railraod
bryson City, n.c. Nothing says Western North Carolina like the Smoky Mountains; and of all of the available trip options, this railroad provides the most variety. Take in the scenery from a 21 and older First Class car, enjoy it with your kids in the family car or just hop on board for a day trip. Between the beautifully refurbished interiors and the breathtaking views of the mountains, you won’t know where to look, so be sure to bring a friend to share it with. gsmr.com
South Carolina Railroad Museum
winnsboro, S.C.
This rustic Winnsboro, S.C., train offers a variety of cars and riding options on 5 miles of restored track. Our favorite fall pick is the Pumpkin Patch Ride on Oct. 27; ride the trains from Winnsboro to Greenbrier and help your kids pick out a pumpkin. Learn more about the Pumpkin Patch ride and all South Carolina Railroad Museum trips at scrm.org.
Blue Ridge Scenic Railway
blue ridge, ga. This two-hour, 26-mile trip offers the option of an authentic indoor or open-rail cars, depending on the season, and will take you along the beautiful Toccoa River from Blue Ridge, Ga., to McCaysville, Ga. A two-hour layover will leave you with enough time for lunch in the sweet town of McCaysville and a chance to stand in two states at once as you straddle the Tennessee-Georgia border. Trips run daily starting Oct. 3 and don’t miss the Pumpkin Pickin’ special or the Santa Train. brscenic.com
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October 2012
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Travel
Prefer "Glee" over "Friday Night Lights"? Then book your tickets for "Rock of Ages" — the Broadway tour makes its stop in K-town on Oct. 2 and 3 at the beautifully restored Tennessee Theatre. Also performing: Oct. 7: Pat Benetar; Oct. 20: Rocky Horror Picture Show; Oct. 26 and 28: Opera Die Fledermaus.
Knoxville, Tenn. Just four hours from Atlanta and Charlotte and three hours from Nashville, lies Knoxville, Tenn., a college town with a lot more to offer than cute coeds and cheap beer. Come for the football, stay for the small-town charm. — Co
where to stay
Last year, Knoxville’s preeminent boutique hotel built in 1876 was renovated and re-envisioned. The result? The Oliver Hotel, a trendy inn that features 28 chic rooms replete with handcrafted furniture that puts you in the heart of the action. Located on Market Square, you have a bevy of restaurants, shops and people-watching opportunities at your disposal, but you don’t have to go far to belly up to a bar. Walk downstairs and enjoy a drink at the Peter Kern Library, a speakeasy that names its drinks after famous literary characters. On Saturdays, head to the Square to peruse the Farmers Market, a mish-mash of fresh local fare, including eggs, honey, breads, salsa and artisan crafts. Kids can cool off in the interactive fountains or drop a dollar into the hat of a local guitarist strumming tunes.
EAT UP
Head to the intersection of Central Street and Jackson Avenue, an offbeat urban mecca for hipsters and locals who know where to go for good eats. The Crown & Goose is a British gastropub where you can get everything from the common bangers and mash to an inspired crispy 30
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DID SOMEONE SAY SHOPPING?
lamb belly terrine — and its dark, cozy London Underground-esque interior makes you feel like you hopped the pond directly into Great Britain. Head back toward the main drag on Gay Street and find the Downtown Grill & Brewery where seven craft-brewed beers await you on tap. You’ll need one to wash down the Fire & Brimstone wings and the mesquite-grilled pork chops. Once you’re sufficiently stuffed, grab a nightcap next door at the swanky Sapphire. Admire the 70-year-old jewelry cases that now house something much more precious — liquor — as you imbibe a signature cocktail or a glass of one of their 60 wine options. Still hungry? Share a plate of Maytag chips or Black-eyed pea hummus.
THAT’S ENTERTAINMENT
No trip to Knoxville would be complete without experiencing a University of Tennessee football at Neyland Stadium. Known as one of the loudest venues in college football, make sure you bring your earplugs and your favorite orange duds. For tickets to watch the Volunteers take on Alabama at home Oct. 20, go to uttix.com, or troll Craigslist for lastminute deals. In the meantime, start memorizing Rocky Top so you can sing along with fans.
Downtown is full of stores that will leave your friends gasping “Where’d you get that?” First try Reruns on Union Avenue, a consignment shop that takes second-hand to a whole new level. With vintage and designer duds at a fraction of the price, you’ll be super fly, with cash to spare. Then head a few blocks down to räla, a smorgasbord of creativity. Part art gallery, part store, local artists offer up their unique paintings, jewelry and crafts — perfect for that friend who’s impossible to shop for. Finally, find your happy place (or at least a lot of things to decorate with) at Bliss and Bliss Home. With funky clothes, crazy kitchen gadgets and oneof-a-kind home décor, you might wish you had brought a U-haul to carry your wares back home.
GET WILD
Get your sweat on somewhere on the 1,000-acre Knoxville Urban Wilderness Corridor that runs along Knoxville’s downtown waterfront and contains 10 parks, nearly 20 miles of recreational trails, three Civil War forts, historic settlement sites and diverse ecological features and recreational amenities. The month of October is host to numerous outdoor activities including 5Ks, bike races, kayak tours and more. Go to outdoorknoxville.com for a complete calendar.
gather ’round Bring loved ones together to share a harvest table. Serve the season’s bounty in bamboo bowls skillfully shaped into graceful curves.
Nguyen Thi Hoc is part of the three-generation family workshop that crafts these bowls by hand.
Coiled Bamboo Bowls, $59, $29 hanDCraFTeD in VieTnaM
Bring in this ad to receive 25%
Off one item.
Offer valid at participating stores until 10/31/12. not valid with other discounts, purchase of gift cards, Oriental rugs or Traveler’s Finds.
Visit www.tenthousandvillages.com to find a store near you.
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Use this logo for reductions only, do not print magenta. Do not reduce this logo more than 30%. Magenta indicates the clear area, nothing should print in this space. You may reduce the logo to 20% without the tag and strap lines. Color of Wood Block Motif critical match to Pantone 1805.