Blue Ridge Outdoors September 2019 by Summit Publishing

SEPTEMBER 2019

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BEST BIKE PARKS F I V E FAV O R I T E S F O R FAT T I R E A D V E N T U R E

CLASSIC ADVENTURES THROUGH BIG SOUTH FORK AND PISGAH

THE RISE OF HIGH SCHOOL BIKING + B AC K I N T H E S A D D L E : C O M M U T I N G PA S T F E A R + T H E B AT T L E F O R S H E N A N D OA H M O U N TA I N + SHOES FOR GOOD

E A R N Y O U R VA R S I T Y LET TER IN CYCLING

ADVENTURE ED: HOW TOP OUTDOOR PROS GOT THEIR START

Your Parks, Your adventures YORK RIVER STATE PARK

A short drive from Williamsburg, the park offers miles of multi-use and mountain bike only trails. Elevation changes challenge your skills as you ride double and single track through the woods. Rent a kayak to explore the tidal estuary. River fish from your boat or the accessible pier. Or hike the Mattaponi Trail down to Fossil Beach. It’s the perfect park for a day in nature. SHENANDOAH RIVER

DOUTHAT STATE PARK

WIDEWATER CALEDON LAKE ANNA

NATURAL BRIDGE

BREAKS INTERSTATE

WILDERNESS ROAD

NATURAL TUNNEL

GRAYSON HIGHLANDS

WESTMORELAND

DOUTHAT JAMES RIVER

HUNGRY MOTHER

MASON NECK

LEESYLVANIA

SEVEN BENDS

With 22 trails of varying difficulty and length, there are more than 40 miles of mountainous multi-use trails. Fish in Douthat Lake from a rented canoe or the pier. Enjoy the lake-view restaurant before staying in a lakeside campsite or a mountainside cabin. A great weekend getaway.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA MUSEUM

SKY MEADOWS

CLAYTOR LAKE SHOT TOWER NEW RIVER TRAIL

FAIRY STONE

BEAR CREEK LAKE

BELLE ISLE POWHATAN

HIGH POCAHONTAS BRIDGE TRAIL HOLLIDAY SAILOR’S LAKE CREEK TWIN BATTLEFIELD LAKES

SMITH MOUNTAIN LAKE

STAUNTON RIVER BATTLEFIELD STAUNTON RIVER

YORK RIVER

CHIPPOKES PLANTATION

KIPTOPEKE

FIRST LANDING FALSE CAPE

OCCONEECHEE

POCAHONTAS STATE PARK

Year-round fun is just half an hour from Richmond. The park is part of the Richmond Regional Ride Center and offers more than 50 miles of mountain bike trails for all skill levels, including directional and multi-use trails and single-track and hand-cycle friendly routes. There’s also boating, picnicking, camping, camping cabins, yurts and three lakes for fishing. The 2,000-seat amphitheater hosts the Pocahontas Premieres concerts, so the fun won’t end at sundown.

| 800-933-PARK (7275)

Learn about all of Virginia’s State Parks at www.VirginiaStateParks.gov/find-a-park

WHO SAYS THE BEACH IS JUST FOR SUMMER? LOVE VIRGINIA BEACH. ALL YEAR.

THE WATER'S STILL WARM AT VISITVIRGINIABEACH.COM

OPINION

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com P U B L I S H E R L E A H WO O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R L AU R E N WO R T H lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N S E N I O R E D I TO R J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER AMELIA MCCONNELL amelia@blueridgeoutdoors.com T R AV E L E D I TO R E L L E N K A N Z I N G E R ellen@blueridgeoutdoors.com O U T D O O R N E W S E D I TO R

KIM DINAN

C O N T R I B U TO R S M A S O N A DA M S A.K. CLEMMONS DA N I E L D E W I T T IAN DZILENSKI

WA L LY S M I T H E L I Z A B E T H M C G OWA N DAV E S TA L L A R D

C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE ADVERTISING & BUSINESS S E N I O R AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E

M A R T H A E VA N S

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PFCS

IS YOUR WATERPROOF GEAR TOXIC? THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRY ADDRESSES WIDESPREAD CARCINOGENIC COMPOUNDS IN ITS PRODUCTS BY MICHAEL WELCH

Music & Mindfulness

WHILE MANY FANS OF THE OUTDOORS HAVE

been practicing Leave No Trace principles since before the nonprofit was founded, they might be surprised and disappointed to learn how much of their favorite gear leaves trace amounts of perfluorocarbons (PFCs) that will remain in the environment long after the wearers are gone. Since the 1940s, more than 4,700 PFCs have been developed that repel both oil and water, reduce friction, and maintain stability when exposed to a wide range of temperatures. They’ve been used in common household products such as Teflon and Scotchguard, but their hydrophobic properties mean PFCs are also a key ingredient in the durable, water-repellent finishes that coat your favorite rain jacket, tent, and sleeping bag. It wasn’t until the early 2000s that the scope of the PFC problem began to emerge. PFCs are a suspected human carcinogen that have been linked to cancer, kidney damage, and reproductive problems, and weakened immune responses in children. They can also contaminate drinking water in less than one part per trillion. In nearly all cases, waterproof or water repellent gear contains a PFC coating unless there’s a tag on the garment specifically indicating that it doesn’t. As the problem gains attention, outdoor gear companies are scrambling to find safe and sustainable solutions without sacrificing performance. At Outdoor Retailer’s 2019 Summer Market, a few manufacturers were showcasing their alternatives to PFAS chemicals. German apparel and gear brand Jack Wolfskin completely eliminated PFCs from its products. Mountain Hardwear removed PFCs from all tents, making it the first major North American brand to do so. Mountain Hardwear also chose a PFC-free treatment for its line of GORE-TEX

OCTOBER 11-13 ° 2019 IX ART PARK C’VILLE ° VA

jackets that launched this spring. W.L. Gore & Associates – an ingredient brand for some of the largest apparel manufacturers in the world, including Patagonia and The North Face – is also aiming to eliminate what it calls PFCs of Environmental Concern. The company worked with Greenpeace to determine what constitutes PFCs of Environmental Concern, and it aims to eliminate use of these chemicals by 2023. Swiss textile manufacturers Schoeller and HeiQ have also joined the cause. Both have created alternatives to PFCs for waterrepellent coatings that perform as well or better than conventional PFC water repellent coatings. These alternatives are being used by Black Diamond, Wolverine, and Levi’s. Toxic chemicals such as PFCs should not have a place in an industry that champions environmental stewardship. A few brands are leading the way, and PFC-free alternatives are now available. It’s up to customers to speak with their dollars and support PFC-free products—for the planet’s health and our own. We go outdoors to be healthy. We should be using gear and apparel that isn’t poisoning us or the planet.

Dawes ° Della Mae ° Samantha Fish ° ROBERT RANDOLPH FAMILY BAND ° Langhorne slim Lost at last band ° Anders osborne ° rubblebucket ° Giant panda Guerilla dub squad ° Kendall street company ° jeremy garrett’s bluegrass jam ° david wax museum ° REV. SEKoU freedom fighters ° agents of good roots ° The dead tongues ° erin wildfire ° Jackie Venson ° Down north ° fireside collective ° adar ° AND THE

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SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

ADVENTURE TRIATHLON S U N D AY, N O V E M B E R 1 O T H RICHMOND, VIRGINIA

TEAM UP OR RACE SOLO. MOUNTAIN BIKE, TRAIL RUN, WHITEWATER PADDLE.

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SEPTEMBER 2019

PLAYING IS FOR THE YOUNG AND YOUNG AT HEART. STAY THAT WAY.

Never stop playing.

R I D E R S M O U N TA I N B I K I N G I N T H E G E O R G E WA S H I N G T O N N AT I O N A L F O R E S T O U T S I D E O F HARRISONBURG. / PHOTO BY JESS DADDIO

F E AT U R E S

48 ENDANGERED The most important 25 conservation law BIKE PACKING Follow in the muddy tread on the books—The of two classic bikepacking Endangered Species Act—is under attack, adventures in Big South and it’s not just wolves Fork National Recreation Area and Pisgah National and salamanders that will suffer. Your favorite Forest. adventure spots are also critical habitat for 31 many rare species. THE RISE OF HIGH SCHOOL BIKING 23 In the last ten years, the BACK IN THE SADDLE National Interscholastic After her mom was Cycling Association has hit by a car, a rookie added 27 leagues in 26 rider faces her fears states. Will competitive and begins bicycle cycling be coming to a commuting. high school near you? 53 ADVENTURE ED Want a job in the outdoors? Learn how guides, search and rescue leaders, environmental attorneys, river keepers, outdoor educators, and adventure sports coaches got their start.

58 THE BATTLE FOR SHENANDOAH MOUNTAIN Is there really enough room in the woods for everyone? A dispatch from deep in the weeds of a generationlong effort to protect Shenandoah Mountain.

D E PA R T M E N T S 5 BACKTALK Is your waterproof gear poisoning you and the planet? The outdoor industry tackles toxins. 9 QUICK HITS Wheels of Fortune— Industry Nine’s winding road to success · Best bike parks in the Blue Ridge · Shoes for Good · 15-year-old canoeist wins bronze at World Cup 64 THE GOODS Best bike gear—Andy Beckman’s favorites for fat tire adventure. 66 TRAIL MIX Four Southern musicians on the rise CORRECTION: THE PHOTO OF WATERFALL CHASER JUSTIN HOPKINS IN THE JULY ISSUE SHOULD HAVE BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO THOMAS MABRY.

It’s always play time in Abingdon. visitabingdonvirginia.com • 888.489.4144

ON THE COVER Brandon Blakely rides Slate Rock in Pisgah National Forest. Photo by Derek DiLuzio |

@derekdiluzio | derekdiluzio.com SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Your Charlottesville home for every celebration.

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OUTDOOR NEWS

BY JEDD FERRIS + KIM DINAN

LAID OFF MINERS IN KENTUCKY PROTEST OVER THEIR UNPAID WAGES Around 60 to 100 coal miners in Harlan County, Kentucky, blocked a railroad track, preventing coal trucks from leaving a mine owned by Revelation Energy LLC. The miners occupied the track in protest, after Revelation Energy LLC filed for bankruptcy and laid off the miners without paying the wages owed to them. Some of the miners were carrying signs that said “No pay, we stay” and all of them are demanding to be paid for the work they completed for the company. “We get our money, this load of coal that’s on this train can go by,” Shane Smith, one of the protesting miners, told news station WYMT. “But until then, there’ll be no trains coming in, there’ll be no trains going out.” Smith also told WYMT that he’d be arrested before he would move, a sentiment shared with many of the other protesting miners.

96-YEAR-OLD RECORD BREAKING RUNNER This summer Roy Englert, 96, of Springfield, Va., broke the men’s 5K world record in the 95-99 age category at the USATF Masters Outdoor Championships. At the race in Ames, Iowa, on July 11, Englert posted a time of 42:20.33, handily beating the previous record of 50:10.56. Englert is making a habit of setting records for nonagenarian runners. Last year at the USATF Masters Indoor Track & Field Championships in Maryland he posted world records in the 800-meter, 1500-meter, and 3,000-meter races. He told the website Run Washington that he trains at least three days a week and admitted continuing to run isn’t always easy: “It’s not fun while you’re doing it. It’s fun when you’re finished. It’s hard work, actually.”

PLANS TO MINE NEAR GEORGIA’S OKEFENOKEE SWAMP POSE ‘SUBSTANTIAL RISKS’ The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service says that a private company’s plans to mine minerals near Georgia’s Okefenokee Swamp poses “substantial risks,” and potentially irreversible damage, to the environment. Twin Pines Minerals LLC wants to mine titanium dioxide within four miles of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. The permit request is currently under consideration. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is still reviewing the plans but wrote in a memo back in February that the agency has “concerns that the proposed project poses substantial risks for significant effect to the environment,” and that “should impacts occur they may not be able to be reversed, repaired or mitigated.” The swamp has been protected since 1937 and serves as habitat for alligators, bald eagles, and other protected species. It is the largest federal refuge in the east. The administration of then-President Bill Clinton dismissed a similar mining plan by DuPont 20 years ago.

MOUNTAIN LION VS. METALLICA A hiker in British Columbia was walking her dog when she noticed a mountain lion watching her. It began to approach her, and then it crouched in a prowllike stance. She yelled at the mountain lion, but it continued to stare at her. The hiker quickly found Metallica’s “Don’t Tread on Me” on her phone and turned the music on full blast and pointed it at the cougar, which bounded out of sight into a bush.

VIRGINIA GOVERNOR TO CREATE NEW OFFICE OF OUTDOOR RECREATION Virginia Governor Ralph Northam has announced the creation of a new Office of Outdoor Recreation. The office will lead efforts to promote the outdoor recreation industry in the state and work on attracting new outdoor businesses. According to a press release issued by Governor Northam’s office, the outdoor recreation industry contributes $22 billion each year to the Virginia economy and employs more than 197,000 Virginians. Deputy Secretary of Commerce and Trade, Cassidy Rasnick, will lead the office. The first order of business is to spearhead an initiative to recruit manufacturers of outdoor products like kayaks, bikes, and gear. “In establishing a statewide Office of Outdoor Recreation, we are taking significant steps to recognize the importance of this industry as a true driver of economic development in the Commonwealth, and demonstrate why Virginia is the natural fit for outdoor business,” said Governor Northam.

FEDERAL COURT THROWS OUT TWO KEY PERMITS FOR ATLANTIC COAST PIPELINE A judge with the U.S. 4th Circuit Court has ruled that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service didn’t follow its order to protect endangered species when it fast-tracked and re-issued two permits for the Atlantic Coast Pipeline. Judge Robert Gregory ruled that, “in fast-tracking its decisions, the agency appears to have lost sight of the mandate under the ESA (Endangered Species Act): ‘to protect and conserve endangered and threatened species and their habitats.’ Construction for the Atlantic Coast Pipeline has been held up since December 2018 due to regulatory setbacks. Dominion Energy, the major developer of the pipeline, released a statement saying that they expect the permits to be re-issued and the pipeline to be completed by late 2021.

SNOWSHOE HIGHLANDS NAMED NEWEST IMBA RIDE CENTER The West Virginia Highlands of Pocahontas County were selected as a bronze level IMBA ride center, one of only 40 ride centers in the world. Snowshoe Mountain is the hub of the ride center.

CYCLING FOR LIFE Three bone marrow transplant survivors known as Team Lifeblood pedaled across the country this summer to raise funds for Be the Match, a nonprofit that assists those in need of bone marrow transplants.

HUNTER SHOOTS AT BIGFOOT NEAR MAMMOTH CAVE CAMPSITE Authorities are investigating a report that hunters camping at a backcountry campsite in Kentucky’s Mammoth Cave National Park fired a gun after allegedly seeing Bigfoot. A bystander reported that he was camping with his girlfriend in a backcountry campsite when a man and his son awakened them around 1 a.m. The man said that both he and his son had heard strange noises and were going to investigate. About a minute later, a gunshot was fired. The man and his son then returned and told the camper that Bigfoot had emerged from the woods and so he had fired at it. The camper and his girlfriend decided to leave the area and report the gunfire.

17 Number of ski areas acquired by Vail Resorts in a summer deal, bringing the slope giant’s total to 34. They include Pennsylvania's Liberty Mountain Resort, Roundtop Mountain Resort, Whitetail Resort, Jack Frost, and Big Boulder.

A 24-YEAR-OLD WOMAN HAS DIED WHILE HIKING TO THE “INTO THE WILD” BUS A young woman from Belarus drowned while crossing the Teklanika River in Denali National Park on the way to Fairbanks Bus 142, a landmark made famous by the book and movie Into the Wild. Christopher McCandless died in the bus in 1992 while attempting to live off the land. After the book and movie about McCandless were released, the bus became a destination for some hikers. The fatality occurred after Veramika Maikamava attempted to cross the Teklanika River by using a rope but was swept under water by the swift current. Her husband, Piotr Mrkielau, unsuccessfully attempted to rescue her, pulling her body out of the water about 100 feet from where she fell in. Maikamava is not the first hiker to die while attempting to reach Fairbanks Bus 142. In 2010, a hiker from Switzerland died in the same river while on her way to the bus. Many others have had to be rescued. SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Home of the Original Pedal Kayak Explore more of the Virginia Capital Trail from Richmond to Jamestown SettlementÂ

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T H U R M O N T, M A R Y L A N D

Gateway to the Mountains!

Relax. Retreat. Recreate. ThurmontMainStreet.com THURMONT MAIN STREET

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Explore the Hiking Trails at Catoctin Mountain Park Enjoy Cunningham Falls State Park where you will find the largest Cascading Waterfall in Maryland | Wildlife Preserve & Zoo Experience Covered Bridge History | Take a Stroll Down Main Street Unwind at one of our 4 Wineries | Savor the Freshness of our Orchards Enjoy Local Cuisine at Our Restaurants

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THE REGION'S BEST

BIKE PARKS OF THE BLUE RIDGE LIFT-ASSISTED MTB PARKS BRING CONVENIENT, IMMERSIVE THRILLS FOR RIDERS OF ALL ABILITY LEVELS. HERE ARE FIVE OF THE REGION’S BEST. B Y E R I C WA L L A C E

WITH THOUSANDS OF MILES OF KILLER MTB TRAILS

crisscrossing the mountains of the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, paying $35-plus to shred in a resort bike park can be perplexing for old school riders and neophytes alike. I was formerly of this camp. But a trip to Virginia’s Bryce Resort last year led to a conversion: I now consider myself an Apostle of Park Riding. How did it happen? Bike trips with my 13-year-old son had atrophied to an average of zero per month. Desperate for a solution, I turned to Bryce. “It’ll be just like snowboarding,” I promised, confronted by his reluctance and suspicion. “We’ll take the lift up the mountain to the trailhead, drop in, ride a professionally manicured route with giant bank curves and more than 50 jumps to the bottom, then hit repeat.” He remained dubious going into the first run. Then came a chute into a give-or-take 10-foot-high berm, followed by a tabletop that sent his Specialized gliding about two feet through the air and into a buttersmooth downhill landing. The raw joy of what could only have been an inadvertent “Yee-ha!” made my heart sing. The bottom found him pedaling hard to the lift. By the end of the day he’d put in at least 25 miles of (comparatively) hardcore gravity riding. Better still, he said he couldn’t wait to come back and “work on getting better.” For me, the takeaway was clear: In terms of immersion, convenience, skill-building and sheer downhill funfactor, park riding is hard to beat. Trails range in difficulty from beginner to pro-level hard, tend to be crafted by world-class professionals, and appear almost neurotically well-maintained. Amenities are close at hand. Jumps and nifty wooden

features abound. Trails begin atop high peaks and typically deliver 1-2 miles of pedal-free riding. While a cross-country day at my go-to spot— i.e. Massanutten’s Western Slope— usually brings about 18-20 miles of riding, I spend 70 percent of my time pedaling up hills. But parks streamline the process: A day pass brings all the gravityfueled bliss my legs can stand. Following the Bryce visit I looked for more great regional rides. What follows are five of the best the Blue Ridge and surrounding mountain ranges have to offer.

Blue Mountain, Pa. This northern Pa. ski resort has been recognized by mountain biking website MTB Parks as one of the East Coast’s top-five resort bike parks for four of the past five years. Despite a diminutive summit height of 1,540 feet, Blue Mountain compensates for its lack of elevation with 25 top-notch trails that drop 1,100 vertical feet and make the most of the mountain. Beginner-friendly green runs segue progressive-style into steep, twisty, and rocky intermediate and advanced routes like Formula, Jambalaya, Moto, Miles of Smiles, and OCS that showcase the natural terrain. In addition to dual slalom runs and tons of wooden features, Ewok Village and the newly added El Camino bring jumps, berms and drops. Tip: The resort offers cheap campsites close to the lift. Day passes, $40. Bike rentals from $99. skibluemt.com

Snowshoe Resort, W.Va. The Beast of the East boasts more than 100 miles of worldclass biking trails and will host the 2019 UCI Mountain Biking World Championships this September. The park offers a whopping 1,500 vertical feet of descent. Its 40 routes were designed by trail-building titan Gravity Logic and cater to everyone from first time riders to U.S. national downhill champions like Neko Mulally. High-speed quad lifts bring swift rides to trailheads. Try the smooth and flowy Skyline, which is 2.9 miles long and features massive berms and more than 50 jumps. Take note: Snowshoe is located in a very rural area, so those traveling from any distance will likely want to stay. Plenty of lodging is available atop the mountain or at the nearby

Cass Scenic Railroad State Park. Day passes, $45. Bike rentals from $40. snowshoemtn.com

Bryce Resort, Va. This small family-owned ski resort delivers an unexpected punch with its compact but powerhouse bike park. Situated around 35 miles northwest of Harrisonburg in the Alleghany Mountains, the park’s seven trails— which can be combined to form routes more than 2 miles long—are the result of a partnership between Trek and Gravity Logic. They are serviced by a quad lift and offer 500 feet of vertical drop. Trails were custom designed to promote skill-building and progression. They are punctuated by an array of fantastic wooden bridges and features, tabletops, gaps, drops, and berms. If you’re looking for more smooth-riding flow than rooty, rocky, and technical, this is your jam. Day passes from $38. Pass with bike rental from $95. bryceresort.com

Beech Mountain Resort, N.C. Billed as the highest lift-assisted bike park east of the Mississippi, this northwestern N.C. ride center brings 5,500-foot summits and some of the best downhill runs in the Southeast. Accordingly, it hosted USA Cycling National Championships in 2011 and 2012. Ten trails of varying ability levels wind through forests alongside the resort’s ski slopes—the longest of which is about 1.5 miles. Routes offer everything from ultra-advanced

B R Y C E B I K E PA R K ' S S U M M E R R A C E S E R I E S WELCOMES RIDERS OF ALL AGES AND SKILL L E V E L S T H E S E C O N D S AT U R D AY O F E A C H M O N T H THROUGHOUT THE SEASON. / PHOTO BY ANDREW DEVIER-SCOTT

technical sections with loads of rocks, drops and multiple lines, to a terrain park and buttery beginner course. Cross-country and enduro fans will enjoy the adjacent Emerald Outback area. Hosting collegiate national mountain biking championships in 2013 and 2014, Beech is home to a 7-mile loop of exquisite singleand double-track. Day passes from $38. Bike rentals from $135. beechmountainresort.com

Windrock Bike Park, Tenn. The only park on the list that doesn’t have a lift gets the nod for being one of the most interesting new operations on the East Coast. Co-owned by Neko Mulally, Windrock was purpose-built for enthusiasts by enthusiasts—and subsequently brings 16 of the rawest and gnarliest cross-country and downhill trails in the region. Made infamous by opening with difficulty levels that started at advanced and continued to extreme, the 550-acre park now offers two flowy, machinebuilt beginner routes, with another three for intermediates. Vertical drop clocks in at an impressive 2,150 feet from a 3,200-foot summit. Weekend van shuttles carry riders to mountaintop trailheads. Camping is available onsite. Weekend passes with unlimited shuttle: $35. Bike rentals: $130. windrockbikepark.com

SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Corbin is The Premier Outdoor Adventure Destination! Where Adventure, History & Hospitality Awai t!

Conveniently located off of I-75 at exit 25, Corbin is home to Laurel Lake, Cumberland Falls State Park, Daniel Boone National Forest and other natural jewels! Your next outdoor adventure awaits in the peaceful grandeur of southeastern Kentucky.

Corbin Tourism & Convention Commission 606-528-8860

www.corbinkytourism.com

Trail BATH Magic.

A trail is a special place for outdoor lovers. It represents a new journey and the start of an adventure. If you’re lucky enough to be on a trail in Bath County, the adventure will also include plenty of unspoiled mountain beauty. That’s a Made in Bath County experience. DiscoverBath.com · 800-628-8092 · #CountyofBathVA 12

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

QUICK HITS

WHEEL OF FORTUNE

TREY THOMAS RIDES BENNETT GAP IN PISGAH N AT I O N A L / P H O T O B Y JOE HOEPER

ASHEVILLE’S WHEEL OF FORTUNE

INDUSTRY NINE'S LONG AND WINDING PATH TO SUCCESS

BY MICHAEL WELCH

WHEN CLINT SPIEGEL GRADUATED COLLEGE AND

and returned to Asheville to work in his family’s Turnamics, Inc. machine shop, the facility was ramping up production for mountain bike suspension company RockShox. But then Rockshox relocated to California and moved production overseas. It was a crippling blow in an industry where work was slowly drying up. Unable to compete with the low labor costs of international manufacturing, the future of Turnamics was looking grim. When RockShox departed from south Asheville, a few employees stayed behind to form a new brand. Cane Creek grew up in the same factory vacated by RockShox, and the offshoot began creating high-end headsets and suspension for bikes. They also had a plan to sell their own line of hubs, which transfer power from the rider to the rear wheel by engaging a drive ring mechanism when the pedals turn. Hubs are a

complex part that must be built to withstand the forces produced by the strongest riders, with the durability to take years of battering on a mountain bike. It was a tall order, but Cane Creek contracted Spiegel and Turnamics to create a new hub. Spiegel reminisces about the gamble, admitting that “They didn’t have money to pay me, but it would be my design and they would be the marketer. I spent a couple years and a quarter-million dollars trying to develop a hub. Ultimately, I couldn’t make it light enough and strong enough, so they dropped the project.” Over the years, Spiegel produced parts for everything from nuclear submarines to medical devices to aircraft landing gear, but the humble bike hub had him stumped, and the design was shelved for a decade. Even during the boom in Turnamics manufacturing brought on by the bike industry, Spiegel had never been a biker. His primary outlet for recreation was whitewater kayaking, but the realities of a growing family and a demanding job had pushed him into a phase that many kayakers experience. Risk tolerance and free time begin to wane, and the aging kayaker starts to see the appeal of land-based alternatives. “Having kids made me realize that risking my life kayaking probably wasn’t the smartest thing. I also needed something that would get me in shape with less of a time

HARDCASE ROLLER LUGGAGE SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

THAT TIME you created a new fall

TRADITION. If you love to hike, bike or paddle your way through autumn’s magic, Chesapeake is where you need to be. Named Top Adventure Town by Blue Ridge Outdoors, we have thousands of acres of parks and nature trails and miles of waterways at your disposal. From food festivals and farmers’ markets to great restaurants and shops, we’ve got you covered. So come to Chesapeake and let the adventures begin.

Let the moments begin. Ches_ Blue Ridge Outdoors_sept 2019_1/2 page print ad_WO 590M_Due 8-9Bƒ_r.indd 1

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WHEEL OF FORTUNE

commitment, so I started riding.” Of course, riding brought Spiegel face-to-face with his old nemesis – the hub project. “Every time I rode, I started thinking about those old designs and how they kicked my ass.” Those rides led to new ideas, and he would stay in the machine shop late at the night and emerge the next morning with prototypes ready to run. “When I finally came up with good stuff, I decided to launch the company.”

INDUSTRY NINE HAS REINVENTED THE BIKE WHEEL. / PHOTO BY B U R K E L AW R E N C E

THE BEGINNING OF A LEGACY

As a tip of the hat to the eight mostly failed ventures that came before, Spiegel named his new wheel company Industry Nine – i9 for short. I9’s first hub was called the Legacy, and while it gained a niche following, there was room for improvement. Besides excessive weight and drag, the bearings in the hub tended to wear out early and cause annoying creaking noises. The team went back to the drawing board. The next iteration was called the Torch, and the vast improvements in every category garnered immediate attention from mountain bikers

around the country. Thanks to some innovative engineering, turning the cranks just three degrees would allow the hub to engage the rear wheel. At a time when most hubs required 15 degrees of pedaling to reach engagement, it was a standout that managed to keep weight and drag to a minimum without sacrificing durability. The Torch hub also generated a literal buzz. While coasting, the sound of each of the six pawls engaging with the drive ring produced a signature sound that’s been likened to a swarm of angry bees.

Since the Torch, i9 has continued to reinvent the bike wheel with eye-catching anodization, highstrength straight-pull spokes, and a breakthrough new hub called the Hydra. Today, the multimillion-dollar company occupies a building next to the revitalized Turnamics machine shop, employing 45 people and utilizing about 60 percent of the manufacturing capacity of Turnamics’ additional 45-person staff. Bike culture at i9 is ubiquitous. The manufacturing floor is covered in employee rides, from the burliest enduro rigs to gravel

grinders and single speeds. There’s even a pump track behind the shop for lunch breaks, and it’s seen more than a few backflips. No matter how good things get, they’re never good enough for Spiegel and his engineers. “I play around with new ideas constantly. Test them out, see the strengths and weaknesses, refine them. We’re always working toward the next thing.” With advanced manufacturing capabilities onsite, the innovation produced at i9 is likely to continue. “Because we manufacture everything here, when we do have a new idea, we can pretty much immediately make prototypes and start testing them rather than waiting. No matter what we’re making, we’ll go through tons of iterations before we reach the final product.” Spiegel’s manufacturing company itself went through plenty of iterations, but his persistence paid off. The evidence isn’t just in Asheville. Trails around the world are buzzing with the sound of i9 hubs, and every trailhead parking lot features wheels in a kaleidoscope of colors. For at least one determined entrepreneur, the ninth time is the charm.

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As America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital, Virginia’s Blue Ridge is a bucket list destination for mountain bikers. With over 300 miles of singletrack and riding for all types of skill levels, the region is the perfect destination for your next getaway. Be a #Trailsetter and check out these top five reasons Virginia’s Blue Ridge is your next spot to go mountain biking.

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Virginia’s Blue Ridge is an IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center™ Virginia’s Blue Ridge is designated as a Silver-Level Ride Center by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. It’s the only destination in the eastern half of the country to earn Silver-Level Ride Center status, as Virginia’s Blue Ridge emerges as America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital. The Ride Center designation is awarded based on a region’s collection of trail offerings, accessibility and connectivity of trails, bike-friendly amenities, and local biking infrastructure & culture.

Guided Adventures & Group Rides When you’re unfamiliar with a trail, know that a guide is nearby and willing to show you the ropes, as well as warn you of any tricky surprises. These services are also awesome for connecting you with like-minded adventurers when you want company for the excursion. Check out Roanoke Mountain Adventures, the Blue Ridge Off-Road Cyclists (Roanoke Chapter of the International Mountain Bicycling Association), Downshift Hand Crafted Bikes & Brews, UnderDog Bikes, and East Coasters Bike Shops to choose the best option for you and/or your group of trailsetters.

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An Awesome Urban Trail System Many cities boast about close proximity to the mountains, but Roanoke is one of the only cities in the U.S. featuring a mountain within the city limits – and it’s a fantastic spot for mountain biking! Located less than three miles from Downtown Roanoke, Mill Mountain Park offers nearly 10 miles of trails across 650 acres of mountaintop space, and you’ll get to check out the awesome view of the city from the Roanoke Star & Overlook.

BIKING & BEER OPTIONS There’s a vibe in Virginia’s Blue Ridge in general that pairs the great outdoors with craft beer. The two are embraced as “go have a blast and then unwind with local suds,” and we have excellent trail systems paired with breweries on Virginia’s Blue Ridge Cheers Trail for the enthusiasts who love to do both. Pair a ride at Carvins Cove with a pint from Parkway Brewing Company or unwind at Ballast Point Brewing Company after a day of backcountry riding in the George Washington & Jefferson National Forest. Traveling on the Blue Ridge Parkway? Hit the trails at Explore Park at Milepost 115 and then check out what’s on tap at Twin Creeks Brewing Company. Cheers!

Epic Trails Brag a little when you conquer some of the most epic, hardest, grandest trails in Virginia’s Blue Ridge. We challenge you to dig in and roll over the technical trails of North Mountain (Dragon’s Back), Fort Lewis Mountain, and of course, Carvins Cove Natural Reserve – highlighted by Singletracks for having some of the best mountain bike trails in the Southeast. Make time to also check out the awesome riding on our newest trails – Morningside Park in Roanoke and the Old Buzzard Trail at Waid Park in Franklin County.

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WOMEN'S CANOE SLALOM

MAKING WAVES

NRC PADDLER EVY LEIBFARTH EYES OLYMPIC GOLD BY ADDIE OLDHAM AND ELLIE BOWEN

AS A TEENAGER COMPETING AGAINST MOSTLY

adult athletes, Evy Leibfarth is making waves in the paddling community. After taking the gold medal in the Women’s Canoe Slalom at this summer’s Pan-American games in Peru, Leibfarth is looking ahead to the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo. Leibfarth, 15, grew up in Bryson City, North Carolina. At age four, she got involved with the Nantahala Racing Club because her father, paddler Lee Leibfarth, was a volunteer coach for the Kid’s Club. “I practically grew up at the Nantahala Outdoor Center,” she said. “I would spend hours there playing in the water, watching the paddlers, and hoping to be out there with them someday… Now, I try to help coach sessions when I’m home, and I hope to be one of the older athletes that

kids look up to and train hard to beat.” Leibfarth credits the NOC’s famous tater tots, which her father used as a reward when she mastered tough moves, as a major factor in her development as a paddler. “Some challenges took me months to complete, but it certainly was good for motivating me when I was little,” she said. BRO sat down with Leibfarth to talk about her recent win and plans for the future. What are your earliest memories of being on the water and how did you realize this was a sport you wanted to pursue? I remember when I was pretty young, maybe around five, I was paddling the Nantahala River and my dad wouldn’t let me run Nantahala Falls until I got my roll. I started crying, and everyone thought that I was scared— but I wasn’t, I was just frustrated. But I finally got my roll and was able to run the rapid. Later, while watching canoe slalom at the 2012 Olympics, my dad planted the seed in my head that I would have to decide how serious I

incredible. Because he knows me so well, he knows how to encourage me and push me to do well, while keeping the sport fun for me. Even before I started training slalom, having athletic parents helped me develop good activity and nutrition habits early, which is huge. Also, because my parents often travel with me, it makes it easier to be away from home for long periods of time for races and training camps.

PHOTO BY JEAN FOLGER

was about slalom after the next quad. And I did decide I really wanted to pursue the sport after paddling at the 2016 Olympic trials and truly realizing how much I loved the competition environment. Even though I had been training a lot before, that’s when I really decided to get serious. Both of your parents are accomplished paddlers. How did they influence your athletic career? What is it like working with your dad as a coach and a parent? Having my dad as my coach is really

What kinds of things do you do to train on and off the water? Off the water, I do strength training at a gymnastics gym and focus mainly on just body weight exercises. Also, to improve my aerobic capacity (which is what’s needed to paddle hard all the way to the end of a 100-second course), I like to mountain bike and run. On the water, I do mostly technique workouts with video review afterwards, as well as longer courses and race simulation to improve my anaerobic endurance. A challenge of slalom is being balanced and precise while trying to go as fast as possible, so not having to focus on being out of breath or being really tired at the

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WOMEN'S CANOE SLALOM

bottom of the course is important.

L E I B F A R T H R U N S T H E S AVA R I V E R D U R I N G T H E W O R L D C U P I N TA C E N , S L O V E N I A . / P H O T O B Y JEAN FOLGER.

You compete in both slalom canoe and kayak. What are some of the differences between the two events? In slalom canoe, I am on my knees and using only one blade. It’s a lot harder to balance than a kayak, where you’re sitting down and using two blades. Because of this, though, it’s often harder to do well in kayak because the race times tend to be really close together, and there is less room for errors. At the beginning of August, you won gold in the Pan-American games in Peru. What was it like competing on such a big international stage, and how is this helping you prepare to qualify for the 2020 Olympics? All race experience that I get is helpful for qualifying for Tokyo. Learning how to mentally prepare for big events is such an important part of racing. This event is the first Games I attended, and I got to learn a lot about how to deal with stress, and also handle interviews and other media while still preparing for a race.

What are your future plans for your athletic career and life in general? I definitely plan on training and competing in canoe slalom for a long time and competing in the 2028 Olympics in my home country is definitely something I’ll have my sights set on. I’d like to go to college while still training full-time after I graduate from high school, and I hope to become either a surgeon or graphic designer... two very different career paths.

Which are your favorite rivers to paddle, and where are some bucket list spots? The Upper and Cascades sections of my home river, the Nantahala, along with the Cheoah, are my favorite natural places to paddle. Most canoe slalom venues are artificial, so my favorite training “rivers” are Penrith, Australia and Bratislava, Slovakia. A few spots on my bucket list are Okere Falls in New Zealand and the Futaleufu in Chile.

How has your paddling career influenced your relationship to environmental issues such as wastewater management and chemical runoff? My paddling career has made me keenly aware of the many environmental issues that rivers are facing. Both nationally and internationally, much of the water I paddle on is polluted, and I am constantly brainstorming ways that I could help solve some pollution issues in the future. I recently took an environmental science course and did a project on wastewater management. Even small steps like placing nets where treated wastewater enters waterways can significantly improve river conditions. My favorite rivers to paddle on are those which haven’t been very influenced by human actions, and I hope those rivers such as the Cheoah can continue to be preserved for the next generation.

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SHOOD

SHOES FOR GOOD ELITE RUNNERS ARE HELPING HOMELESS GET BACK ON THEIR FEET BY EILEEN ABBOTT

IT’S CALLED SHOOD (SHOES FOR GOOD), AND IT ALL

started when runner Robin Telfian of Richmond, Virginia, was volunteering at her church’s food pantry. One of the regular guests she had befriended, David Hewlett, showed her his shoes, which had holes in the soles, and asked her to help find him a new pair. "I believe we’re all put on this planet to help one another, ” says Telfian, about wanting to assist Hewlett. “David asked what happens to runners’ shoes after a big race,” recalls Telfian. “That was the big question. Light bulbs went off. I remember thinking, 'This is a big moment.'” Telfian asked Hewlett to join her in this mission because “David knows the community we are serving. He’s lived on the streets. He understands what’s needed. He’s all about the

dignity piece.” Teaming up with volunteer community partners such as Fleet Feet running store owner Jeff Wells, who collects running shoe donations at his two Richmond Fleet Feet stores, SHOOD is profoundly transforming thousands of lives. “The idea a runner can run past someone they can turn around and help is really powerful,” says Telfian. SHOOD volunteers clean and recondition the used running shoes to look like brand new. "We’re picky about shoes we give away, no holes, no tears, good treads on the bottom," explains Telfian. One guest at a giveaway thanked Telfian saying, “What you all are doing is different. You aren’t giving me a pair of shoes you wouldn’t wear yourselves.” Telfian believes, “Everybody deserves a comfortable well-fitted pair of shoes. The folks we serve, the primary mode of transportation is walking.” And for some guests, they turn into runners after receiving the donated shoes. A Richmond 10K training team with volunteer coaches decided

to help recipients reach a running goal by completing a race. "There's something magical that happens when people get the right pair of shoes. It’s kind of that Cinderella moment. You know the shoe goes on and the face lights up, and it’s happiness. One man did a happy dance. We have that all the time, those moments where you know what you’re doing matters." It mattered to Peter Zetts, one of the recipients of donated shoes who joined the 10K training team. Struggling with drug addiction from challenges in life, the running offered new hope for better ahead. "It's a natural antidepressant," says Zetts, about the healthier road he's taking. What has also affected him is the caring of the dedicated volunteers at

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SHOOD, the 10K training team volunteers, CARITAS, and The Healing Place. "They don't have to do this. They're sacrificing a lot of their free time. Yet they volunteer to invest in you." And on race day, the donated running shoes meant a lot to Zetts. "I think it helps you feel more a part of the community, not so cast out, as you do as an addict." "I feel this is what I’m meant to do," Telfian reflects, at a running shoe giveaway. "I can watch it all unfold, the connections our guests and our volunteers have together, and the conversations that are much bigger than shoes."

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Back in the Saddle

A NEWBIE BIKE COMMUTER FACES HER FEARS BY ELLEN KANZINGER

IT WAS A FEW DAYS BEFORE MY FIFTEENTH BIRTHDAY. I REMEMBER

waking up and running downstairs, eager to soak up every minute of the summer day. I was confused to find my grandpa in our living room that early. “Ellen, there’s been an accident,” he said. “Your mother is fine, but she was hit by a car.” During the summer, my parents would ride their bikes early in the morning before their three children got up and the North Carolina humidity made it almost unbearable to be outside. That morning, a driver was stopped at a red light, waiting to turn right. He looked left before pulling out into traffic but didn’t see my mom crossing on the trail in front of him from his right. She was lucky. He wasn’t going very fast, having just started to accelerate. The car fractured her tibia, and she spent the rest of the summer on crutches. But it could have been a lot worse. Ever since that summer, the idea of riding a bike on the road causes my heart to start beating faster. Even riding to my grandparents' house, less than a mile on backroads, seemed treacherous. There’s so much out of your control when it’s you, on a bike, versus a car. And I had seen what could happen up close. That’s what I’m thinking about as I prepare to bike to work for the first time. For the past year, I lived close enough to walk to and from work every day. It was part of my effort to be more conscious about the impact I have on the environment around me. But my new apartment is farther away, and the commute comes with more hills than I am willing to walk after a day in the office. So, biking it is. Working for an outdoor magazine, it can be intimidating to think about all the people out there doing “radder” things than I am. I talk to them, write about them, and am inspired by them. For me, riding to work will be my own personal mountain. I decide to do a test run the night before I planned to do my first commute. It’s been a while since I’ve been on a bike and I don’t want my first ride to be in the middle of morning rush hour. It’s been so long that I actually can’t remember the last time I was on a bike. I find that a little sad considering how much I used to love riding up and down our street. That was a time before I could drive, and riding my bike was a taste of independence, riding far enough to where I could no longer see my house. But I’m back on the bike now and that’s what matters. Helmet? Check. Bike lights? Double check. I’m not going to lie. I am wobbly and uncertain as I ride out onto the street. My pulse picks up as I hear a car come up behind me. I take in a deep breath as I 22

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

sense it beside me. I don’t let the air out until the car is past me and I’m on my own again. Once I get going, I am coasting for the first mile. Literally. I live on top of a hill and barely have to pedal at all. I am cruising. The wind in my face helps keep the heat away. As each car passes me, I feel less threatened. “This is going to be a breeze,” I think, immediately jinxing myself. As I shift into the lowest gear to get up the first hill I’ve faced, I feel it. I don’t know what’s happened, but I no longer feel tension on the pedals. The panic, the racing pulse, immediately comes back to me. I’m no bike mechanic, so I do what any reasonable person would do. I pull off into a parking lot and call my mom. We come to the conclusion that the bike chain has slipped off the gears. By this point, my hands are covered in grease and I just want to get home. But I also know that if I don’t get this chain back on, I have a long walk home. Uphill. Once the chain is in place, I am back on the bike. Now I’m sweating and cursing. My thighs BURN. I am nowhere near in biking shape for the hills of Charlottesville. How did I think this was going to be easier than walking? By the end of the ride, I am walking my bike up the hills. Although it’s almost eight o’clock and the sun is beginning to set, it still feels like it’s 90 degrees

ELLEN KANZINGER RIDES HER BIKE AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. PHOTO BY RACHEL STONE

outside. In this moment, I am glad I decided to do a test run before trying to commute to work. Before I go for another ride, I go into research mode. Do I need to get my bike looked at or was it user error that caused the chain to slip? I find myself deep in biking forums, reading about the proper shifting technique, cable stretch, and derailleur limit screws. The more I read, the more I realize the old saying “just like riding a bike” is not as simple as it seems. Just getting on the bike didn’t take away all of the anxiety I feel about riding in traffic. And it didn’t address my lack of technical knowledge when it comes to maintaining my bike. But I still did it. I rode beside cars, crossed intersections, and managed to get myself home. Although that ride did not go how I expected it to, I proved to myself that this was something I could do and want to do again. I bring up my fears about riding on the road with my mom one weekend when I am home. Like me, she says she thinks about riding again every summer but readily admits she’s just not as comfortable on her bike anymore. The twinge in her knee is a reminder of what happens when things go wrong. Maybe this will be the year we both start to ride again.

BIKEPACKING THE BLUE RIDGE

PHOTO BY JESS DADDIO

THE BIG SOUTH FORK’S UNTAPPED BIKEPACKING POTENTIAL BY MALEE OTT

DRIVING ALONG THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE BIG SOUTH FORK National River and Recreation Area, there’s no doubt we’re in horse country. Shards of morning sunlight illuminate wildflower-freckled pastures, and the roadside is dotted with equine-friendly accommodations. There’s even a diner called The Hitching Post. But, the 125,000acre recreation area spread over northeastern Tennessee and southeastern Kentucky has also emerged as one of the Southeast’s premier mountain biking destinations – thanks in large part to one man, Joe Cross. I’m with an old friend, Tommy Safranek, a ranger at the Big South Fork for the past three years. Bikes balanced atop my Subaru, we’re headed to meet Cross for the Moonshine Bikepacking Event, a ride he’s organized to showcase the region’s untapped potential. "Joe is the reason there’s mountain biking in the Big South Fork," Tommy says as we turn onto Alfred Smith Road, toward the west rim of the 40-mile gorge splicing the recreation area. A semi-retired pharmacist, trail builder extraordinaire, and founder of the Big South Fork Bike Club, Cross has been championing mountain biking in the region for more than three decades. As a result of his trail stewardship, the Big South Fork was among the first National Park Service units to embrace mountain biking – and the recreation area’s off-road offerings put the region on the map for singletrack seekers more than a decade ago, when options for mountain bikers in national parks were still scarce. In 2012, the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) recognized five of the Big South Fork’s trails as Epic Rides, making the recreation area the first National Park Service unit to receive the prestigious designation. The pioneers of mountain biking were known for forging rogue routes, and pirate trails have been etched into landscapes across America, from the White Mountains to the red rock desert of Sedona, Arizona. But, in the Big South Fork, Cross took the opposite approach. He was hooked on mountain biking back in the early days, not long after the sport’s Californian creators first started pedaling the fire roads of Marin County. By the 1980s, Cross was cycling the old logging roads lacing the Big South Fork, and craving more miles to ride. But, instead of blazing illicit routes, he approached the National Park Service and made a deal, promising that if allowed to ride inside the Big South Fork, the local mountain biking community would both build and maintain trails. More than thirty years later, both sides are still keeping up their ends of the bargain. The Big South Fork Bike Club still spends about 250 hours volunteering in the park annually, and Cross himself puts in 150 hours. We find Cross sifting through rain layers, in a clearing along Alfred Smith Road. With a battery of thunderstorms forecasted, Tommy and I are the only other cyclists for the ride. As darkening clouds furrow overhead, Cross SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 25

proposes a route linking two of the park’s IMBA Epics. We’ll start on the Grand Gap Loop, then hop on the 40 mile John Muir Trail, featuring a 7.5 mile section designated as an Epic Ride. I follow Cross along a ribbon of singletrack fringed by mountain laurel, toward the edge of the gorge flanking the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River. The Grand Gap loop is named for a fissure in the precipitous cliffline once used by homesteaders to reach the river, and the circuit is studded with some of the park’s most spectacular overlooks. The upland loop is also splintered with trails for off-road riders. Heading north, the John Muir Trail meets Duncan Hollow Road, where riders can gravel grind toward the Bandy Creek Campground – and the park’s other three IMBA Epics. South of Grand Gap, the John Muir Trail forms part of the 319 mile Sheltowee Trace, a multi-use National Recreation Trail threading the Big South Fork and two neighboring recreation areas, Pickett State Park and the Daniel Boone National Forest. "By combining all three of the adjacent managed areas, you give yourself a lot of variety," says Cross. "Don’t just limit your bikepacking to the Big South Fork. Explore the entire region. That’s part of the beauty of our area." Cross also recommends the Big South Fork for novice bikepackers. "The IMBA Epic route is easy for newbies," he says of the 33 mile circuit linking the park’s five epics. "It stays close to Bandy Creek Campground, which provides an easy bail out if your trip goes wrong. That’s a big mental comfort." First-time bikepackers don’t even have to camp. Cabins are available at Pickett State Park, and there’s a backcountry inn nestled in the heart of the Big South Fork – Charit Creek Lodge. The property includes structures dating back to 1817, built by long hunter Johnathan Blevins, one of the region’s earliest homesteaders. Although off-grid, the lodge serves family-style meals, keeps a stash of craft beers, and is home to Instagram celebrity Booger Blevins, the resident mutt. Cross might be partial to the region’s singletrack, but he also touts the offerings for gravel grinders, especially the Rock Creek Area, tucked along the northern edge of the Big South Fork, in the Daniel Boone National Forest. The land belonged to the Stearns Coal & Lumber Company until 1935, and decades of coal and timber extraction left Rock Creek virtually devoid of life. But after targeted restoration efforts, the stream is now both a Blue Ribbon Trout Fishery and a Kentucky Wild River. For gravel aficionados, Divide Road parallels the waterway, skirting Pickett State Park, and intersecting both the John Muir Trail and the Sheltowee Trace. Near one of Grand Gap’s shadowy rockhouses, once a shelter for long-hunters, moonshiners, and traveling Cherokee, Cross calls out for me to stop. There’s a lady slipper beside the trail. Adorned with a bulbous lilac bloom, the rare orchid is flowering, a process that can take 16 years. It’s almost like Cross knew exactly where to find the flower, and I can’t help wondering how many times he’s pedaled this loop. I ask if it’s his favorite trail. "I have no real favorites,’ he admits. "Whichever one I’m riding is my favorite at the time.’ 26

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

B I K E PA C K E R S C A R R Y G E A R ON THEIR HANDLEBARS AND IN FRAME BAGS. / PHOTO BY JESS DADDIO

GRAVEL GRINDER: FOR A BACKPACKER, THERE MAY NOT BE A BETTER WAY TO SEE NORTH CAROLINA THAN ON A BIKE. B Y R YA N W I C H E L N S

“I HOPE WE DON’T KILL THE BACKPACKER.” Funny joke. The folks I was having dinner with—a handful of cycling gurus from bike gear manufacturer Blackburn Design—clearly knew my schtick, and it was just starting to sink in, to them and me, that this would be something different. Personally, I hadn’t really put much thought into this trip. More an expert in boot-based camping, I was asked along to experience backpacking’s hybridized cousin during three days of bikepacking along gravel roads outside Asheville, North Carolina. I’d always been curious about bikepacking and had never been to Asheville, so the only real consideration I put into the trip centered around needing to run to a local gear shop to get a pair of real chamois. For my hosts, I was clearly a reasonably fit guy who (at least, they assumed) knew how to pedal. Eh, he’ll be fine. But now we were huddled around a map on someone’s phone looking at the specifics. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 175 miles and close to 15,000 feet of climbing in those three days. I took another sip of my beer hoping it wouldn’t be my last one. Yeah, let’s try not to kill the backpacker. Even if I was far from ever calling myself a cyclist, I was no stranger to bikes. Riding around the hills of upstate New York, where I grew up, on the simple hardtail that my parents had given me for my 16th birthday was my workout of choice (running was never fast enough), and the same bike was still my preferred commute around Seattle. That said, the longest I ever spent on it was one or two 40-mile days, I never owned any cycling-specific clothing, and aside from a vague understanding of how to change an inner tube, I put little time into knowing how the bike worked or what anything not attached to the handlebars did. Loading my bike with camping gear and riding for three days straight, let alone for 50, 60, or 70 mile days, was going to be a shock. Thankfully, I was able to leave the nearly 10-year-old bike at home in favor of borrowing a much lighter, better-geared gravel bike, loaded up with a couple of gifted bike bags. The camping gear I was no stranger to, but where it should go on the bike took some trial and error. Before long, though, I had a system together. One bag, which could quickly come off the bike at the end of the day, had my tent and sleeping bag in it. My hydration tube snaked out of my frame bag and sat in easy reach, as did my phone. A rain jacket was strapped to the top of my seat bag for quick access. The bike suddenly felt a little homier and comfortable—at least for

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the first few miles of the ride the next morning, until I ate it crossing a small creek deeply cut into a section of singletrack. This was going to be a long weekend. I don’t think I’ve ever felt pain in my forearms like this before, but I can’t let go. Careening down a windy, bumpy gravel road somewhere deep in Pisgah National Forest, they’re the only thing keeping me from picking up too much speed, hitting one rock the wrong way, and skidding out into the loose stones. My guts feel like a shaken cocktail and my handlebar bag is bouncing enough to occasionally tap the tip of my front tire. I’m somewhere close to halfway through day two, and while it is my lower half killing me this morning as we climb up and over the Blue Ridge Parkway, now it’s the top half. I wasn’t expecting this to be a full body workout. I have to walk my bike a few times. There is some muddy singletrack that I just cann't pedal through, and there is a crazy steep gravel hill that almost no one is able to pedal up. The organizer hyped it as "the hardest 100 yards you'll ever ride." I don't make it far up that at all. By the time I roll into our camp that night, having ridden 70 miles and climbed 6,500 feet, I was even more worked. I lay in the grass of the discreet hollow we were camping in, the hills rising up around me and the cool air sinking into the damp ground. I feel like I’d seen it all: Dark tunnels of green hiding scrambley doubletrack, wide open vistas looking down on a carpet of green, the “cradle of American forestry.” Waterfalls cascading over sheets of shale, and broad granite domes rising like bubbles from

the woods. Quiet towns crisscrossed by gravel, and muddy singletrack on hillsides that look like they haven’t been touched in centuries. All in one day. That night, I quickly set up camp and join my companions in a circle of sleeping pads, our backs against soggy logs. Local beers cool us off as the fall sun weaves through the trees and a warm breeze reminds us of the sweat still clinging to our backs. Bikepacking has all the best parts of backpacking: A comfortable camp, good friends, drinking beers in the dirt, scenery, and a connection to the environment that only comes from traveling for a few days under your own power, outside. The difference? I had seen a whole lot more today than I ever could have on foot. It may have worked me a little harder than a similar amount of time spent walking, but so far I was surviving better than I thought I would. It was worth it. The next morning starts like any day on the trail. I crawl out of my tent, careful not to touch the dewy nylon, eat some breakfast, then start to break things down. By now I know precisely how everything packs onto my bike, and before long, I’m ready to start the ride back toward Asheville. As disappointed as I am to be wrapping up the trip, I feel better about heading home after three days than I normally do after a quick two-night backpacking trip in a new place. I feel like I know it. The picture I’ve gotten of this region this weekend is a long one, covering nearly 200 miles through towns, forests, and mountains. And it was a hard one, forcing me to push for every hill and hold on tight for every descent. I can’t help but think grinding gravel might have been the most effective

way to really become familiar with the Pisgah. I could never kill the backpacker inside of me. But trading the boots for pedals might be the ultimate way to explore someplace new.

INSIDE RYAN’S BIKE PACK: • Handlebar bag • Tent • Camera • Sleeping pad • Frame bag • Phone • GPS • Hydration bladder • Basic bike tools (multitool with hex wrenches, screwdriver, spare tube, tire levers, etc.) • Cookware (bowl, mug, silverware) • Book • Headphones • Seat Bag • Sleeping bag • Extra riding clothes (long pants, extra shirt) • Camp clothes (gym shorts, clean shirt, socks, clean underwear) • Rain jacket (strapped to the top)

MY LIGHT MY WAY

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Come explore Patrick County, Virginia. Picnics at a covered bridge or along the Blue Ridge Parkway, canoe rides, traditional mountain music, artisan studios, local wineries, bed and breakfasts, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and fishing are just a few of the attractions awaiting you. From the rugged outdoors to 5-Star luxury, there is so much to discover in Patrick County. www.visitpatrickcounty.org

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Within our 30 miles of privately stocked freestone streams, you’ll find plenty of trout – brook, brown, golden, and rainbow. And there’s also plenty of smallmouth for bass anglers. Get to know them up close and personal by planning an overnight adventure here: VisitCherokeeNC.com | 800.438.1601 VisitCherokeeNC.com

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

HIGH SCHOOL BIKING IS BIG IN THE BLUE RIDGE. H E R E ' S W H Y.

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

efore the National Interscholastic Cycling Association (NICA) was officially founded in 2009, you’d be hard pressed to find mountain biking in middle and high schools across the country. A school here or there might have a club formed by a few dedicated students. Otherwise, you’d have to look into highly specialized schools or compete in your free time if mountain biking was your sport. In the last ten years, NICA has added 27 leagues in 26 states with plans for more in the future. But even though the league has been growing, at a rate of about 40 percent a year, NICA is not a common acronym that rolls off of the tongue. “Outside of the cycling industry, still not many folks have heard about us,” said parent Kristine Urrutia. “If you say Girls on the Run, people know Girls on the Run. Their numbers are larger than ours. But I do feel like at some point we’re going to break that ceiling, and everybody is going to know what NICA is.” Kenny Griffin, the Georgia league director, has seen the sport explode since Georgia became the ninth league to launch in 2013. “The first year, we started with 121 high school student athletes, 50 coaches, and 10 teams,” he said. “In year two, we expanded our programming to middle school student athletes as well. This year, we’re expecting 1,200 student athletes, 750 coaches, and 74 teams across the state of Georgia. So, in six years, it’s been an explosive rocket that we’re all riding.” As the organization works to reach more kids, league directors and coaches are addressing issues of accessibility within the sport. Through private donations, sponsorships, and grants, leagues are able to provide financial aid and loaner bikes to students who demonstrate need. “If we want to reach more kids, we want the barrier to entry to be as low as possible,” Griffin said. “We don’t want to make it $5,000 per kid to join because we would probably cap out at 200 kids because not very many kids can afford to join a $5,000 sport.” Teams also have to work on finding a place to practice. “In order to have a team, you gotta have a trail system,” Griffin said. “Arguably, the reason Georgia has been so successful is because the timing of our league being created and the evolution of trail infrastructure have been very cohesive. Without that, we wouldn’t have been able to be as successful as we are. We do find some scenarios where there are no trails for kids to practice. We have a model that works on a soccer field or grassy open area where you can build fitness and teach skills. But we’re very lucky to have good support from land management and local governments for new trails.” R I D E R S I N T H E P E N N S Y L VA N I A L E A G U E H E A D O U T O N T H E T R A I L . PHOTO BY AARON PUTTCAMP

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A NICA season is comprised of four or five weekend race events in the fall or spring depending on the state. Mike Kuhn, director of the Pennsylvania league, said the organization intentionally did not want it to be a year-round sport. “We absolutely want all of our student athletes to go do other stuff, whether it’s other sports, academic clubs, work,” he said. “All around athletic development is showing to be potentially more effective because it reduces burnout and there’s less likelihood for injury.”

RIDERS IN THE P E N N S Y L VA N I A L E A G U E ROUND THE CORNER. PHOTO BY AARON PUTTCAMP

The Coaches

The key to the NICA model is the coaches. The organization strives to have no more than four student athletes per coach. And as the number of students participating continues to rise, so is the number of coaches involved. Kuhn said NICA is not so much a mountain bike racing organization as it is a youth development program. “In the real world, intervals aren’t making you a better person,” he said. “Competition itself doesn’t make you a better person. The interactions that you have with all of the people around that process, how you build community, camaraderie, and connectivity, that’s what matters. So, we want to be very deliberate about that. A big piece of this is coaching. We do ask a lot of our coaches. I think the coaches get as much out of it as the students do.” Every coach goes through NICA training, including risk management, on-the-bike skills, and coaching philosophy. “You have to understand how to identify trails that are appropriate for the wide range of student athletes,” Kuhn said. “We have really elite level competitors down to student athletes who may be four or five rides into mountain biking. The first ride they did at practice was how to get on and off the bike properly. So, we want them to have a good time, and we want our elite racers to have a good time. It means that maybe a course isn’t as East Coast technical as it might otherwise be, but it can still be twisty and feature good singletrack and all of the things that still make for a fun experience.” Alaina Dietz is heading into her fourth year of coaching the Keystone Composite team in Pennsylvania. “Interesting thing about our team, it was started by three women, none of which have children on the team,” she said. “We have coaches that are just passionate about mountain biking and sharing their sport with you. And have the time resources and financial resources to be able to share that.” Dietz started advocating for more women and kids in the sport after years of racing, including a national cross-country championship. When she heard a NICA league was coming to Pennsylvania, she knew she wanted in. “We thought maybe we’d get five kids in our first year,” she said. “We’d be super stoked to make our little team and see what happened. In our first year, we had 30 kids come out to the team. So, then we had to recruit all of these other adults to help us. Now the team is in its fourth year. We’re well into the 40s and probably 20 coaches that help out with the

team.” With mountain biking, coaches aren’t on the sidelines with a whistle. They are riding with the kids, moving and engaging through the sport. “A lot of our coaches are parents who are mountain bikers who are like, yes, my kid rides,” Dietz said. “This is wonderful. I can now ride trails with my daughter. This is a dream come true. We even have some parents who weren’t mountain bikers but gave it a try and have become good cyclists in the meantime. So, we have parents who come in and learn with their children. It’s cool to see a whole family evolve in the sport.” In the last two seasons, the Pennsylvania league has tested two pilot programs for NICA, Adventure Programming and Teen Trail Corps. “We know that there are a bunch of students out there who may not be driven by competition,” Kuhn said. “We just want to get them engaged, riding, and stoked about it. Once they try it, maybe they’ll like doing some gravel, bike packing, enduro, or cyclocross. It’s not really about just being a mountain biker. It’s find out about cycling and see where it takes you. We hope it’s something that you enjoy so much you’re going to do it some way, shape, or form for life. Whatever that might be for you is great.” The Adventure Programming allows students to

still participate with the team, including practices and weekend events, without the pressure of racing. Students can also get involved with maintaining local trails and advocating for new ones. “Many years ago, Pennsylvania mountain bikers lost access to about 1.5 million acres of state game lands,” Kuhn said. “With that legacy and history, we want to be clear that this is super important to us. I don’t separate riding a mountain bike from trail stewardship. To me, it’s all mountain biking. If you’re riding, you’re raking.” Pennsylvania decided to make stewardship an integral part of the season scoring. Teams can earn half of their points for the team championships by reporting their trail work hours. “Mountain biking is a privilege,” Dietz said. “It’s not a right to go and ride public lands. We can advocate to have better land access to keep our trails and help our sport.” However a student chooses to get involved, whether it’s racing or helping out as the team mechanic, there is a place for them in mountain biking. “I feel that giving kids a healthy outlet for adventure is super valuable, especially in an age where kids who don’t have a healthy outlet for adventure may go and seek that in other not so healthy ways,” Dietz said. “So many parents saw

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significant changes in their children in other areas of life. Their kids had better attitudes at home. Their kids had a better attitude about school. Their kids just had an overall better sense of well-being once they found a sport that they really connected with. I think there’s something magical about being on a bike, moving, balancing, riding through the trails, seeing great scenery, sweating, and getting dirty that makes this sport a little bit different than other sports.”

The Students

As she’s waiting on her bike at the start line, Juliet Breit can feel the adrenaline start to kick in. “It’s really nerve wracking because you’re at the line and you’ll see all of the grades before you go,” Breit said. “They call out 30 seconds and then you start with this really loud buzzer. You’re so nervous the first couple minutes of the race. But then once you actually get into the race, you really get into the flow of it. You don’t see that many other girls on the course with you, even though they’re all out there. You get to go at your own speed. I love racing with the other girls because every time I’ll pass somebody, we’ll encourage each other to keep it up and stuff like that.” Heading into her sophomore year, Breit is gearing up for her fourth season racing with NICA. She got hooked in seventh grade when a few parents started a team at her middle school. Breit, 15, was drawn to sports like cross country and power lifting that had more of an individual

component. While she had ridden her bike around town with her family, she had never tried mountain biking before. “I was really nervous going into it,” Breit said. “None of my friends were doing it. The first race I was really nervous. But the rest of the races, I got less nervous and more excited for them. I just really liked the experience of them. And then, of course, we grew as a team and bonded together. But it was hard being one of two girls out of a team of 20.” Although Breit really enjoyed the sport, her new high school did not have a mountain biking team. So, her dad decided to start one. “I love having my dad there because it feels like he can understand me,” Breit said. “It’s nice having somebody who you know really closely be in the sport with you, come to all of your races, and support you in that way.” The NICA model offers flexibility for students and coaches. Depending on the number of kids interested, the team can be based around a specific school, like other traditional sports, or can be a composite team made up of students from all over the area. “School based teams means sustainability because you have school pride,” Griffin said. “It’s associated with an administration, so you get announcements, a trophy in the trophy case, parents are involved, varsity kids letter, your team is on the school website as an endorsed activity. Some schools even provide bus transportation and coach stipends.” With a composite team, the practices can

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be tough when everyone has a different school schedule and can’t get out to the trails during the week. They’ll do skill work at local parks during the week and then travel to trails on the weekends. But when a team is first starting out, it’s a great way to get kids excited in hopes that they will recruit more riders. The races are big events, with pre-rides on Saturday and the races on Sunday. Breit said she’s worked out a system where she’ll ride the course a few times on Saturday to get a feel for the trail. “Maybe one time I ride it slower,” she said. “The next time I’ll try to push myself more and see what pace I’ll go at.” Last year, Breit also participated in NICA’s new program, Girls Riding Together (GRiT). “As a female rider, it’s hard because there are so many more male riders,” she said. “The environment is more focused towards them in some ways. But on Saturday, we [GRiT] get together, hang out, focus on skills, and do a pre-ride together. It was just such a great part of the season for me because I feel like it really boosted my confidence and made me feel more comfortable in a sport that has more male riders. A couple seasons ago, I only had three girls racing against me. There were 30 or 40 boys. Having that program has helped me and it’s created a stronger bond between racers.” She hopes this program will help encourage other female riders to get out on a bike. “It’s hard to get girls into it,” Breit said. “Whenever I tell my friends to join, they think of it as doing flips off of rocks on your bike. But that’s

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really not what it’s about. It’s more trail riding. So, I think getting girls into it and having them see how much fun it is, is a key part of the program. It doesn’t matter how big your team is or how good you are at the sport, just enjoy it. It’s a great way to just be outside in the environment, but also still riding with your teammates.”

The Parents

Before her three kids joined their local NICA team, Kristine Urrutia was not a mountain biker. “I didn’t know how to mountain bike and I wasn’t interested in mountain biking,” she said. Although she was a triathlete and did some road cycling, she would run behind her kids when her husband took them mountain biking. That is, until he got her a mountain bike for Mother’s Day. “He was like no longer are you going to run behind us,” Urrutia said. “You’re going to learn to ride. The family is moving the needle on me. You really need to learn how to mountain bike, mom. That was roughly four or five years ago, and I started mountain biking at 44 years old.” In addition to getting on the bike herself, Urrutia has seen all three of her kids excel in various ways through mountain biking and competing with NICA. Her middle son, who was born with global low muscle tone, was in various forms of physical, occupational, and speech therapy for most of his life. “Mountain biking, in so many ways, has changed him completely, being a part of a team,” Urrutia said. “I took him to therapy one day and his physical

therapist told me to stop bringing him. You’re doing all he needs with his mountain biking. All of his synapses that need to be firing are firing. Joining NICA and being a part of the cycling community has just opened up his world and built his confidence.” With the success she saw with her own kids, it didn’t take Urrutia long to get involved with the organization at the state and national level. “I drank the Kool Aid about the idea,” she said. “It had a mix of everything I loved. It was kids getting exercise and kids being outdoors in the woods.” As part of the management team, Urrutia is helping connect with more partners and raise funds for NICA. “We’re at the point now where our growth is sort of exceeding our capacity as an organization,” she said. “But that’s a good problem for us to have.” All of this, Urrutia said, is part of the push to create the next generation of lifelong cyclists. “We don’t want this to be a one and done sport,” she said. “Like where you were the great football or soccer player in high school, and then as you went into your adult life, you weren’t playing those sports anymore. We look at this as something that someone can do for the rest of their life.”

Learn the skills you need on the trail with a public or private class. Equipment provided. Once you’ve got the basics, tour this IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center with guides who will customize a trip for your skill level. CLIMB Works Smoky Mountains (Gatlinburg, TN): Take a tour through the Smokies on an e-bike, a mountain bike with electric pedal-assist. They will guide you through the first loop and set you on your way for an adventure. Bearings Bike Shop (Atlanta, Ga.): This community bike shop allows kids to earn their bike as they work and complete tasks in the shop. Along the way, they pick up mechanical and critical thinking skills to prepare them for life. Spoke’n Revolutions (Carrboro, NC): Youth can hit the road on a multi-day bike packing experience with a focus on history and environmental destinations.

Classes Near You

Take Aim Cycling (Shenandoah Valley, VA): From beginners to pros, the Shenandoah Valley to Massanutten Bike Park, individuals to groups, these instructors will help you fine-tune your skills for the trails.

Roanoke Mountain Adventures (Roanoke, VA):

Arrowhead Bike Farm (Fayetteville, WV): Rent a bike or bring your own for a mountain bike clinic right in the mountains of West Virginia and the New River Gorge.

Check out these groups around the region for workshops and group rides geared towards getting more people out on the trails.

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SUSQUEHANNA RIVER VALLEY, PA

Whether you prefer cycling across rolling hills on paved terrain or tearing down mountains as you power over rocks, Pennsylvania’s Susquehanna River Valley has it all. At Raymond B. Winter State Park, mountain bikers will find more than 25 miles of off-road trails. Located within Bald Eagle State Forest, these trails connect with almost 100 additional miles of forestry roads to keep the fun going. Depending on the season, take full advantage of the park’s resources as you fill your day with hiking, swimming, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling. Stay the night at one of several campsites and cottages in the park. Hop on the Buffalo Valley Rail Trail for 9.5 miles of riding off the road between Lewisburg and Mifflinburg. Paved on both ends with a gravel surface in the middle, this trail is the perfect route to take in the sights and sounds of the valley for riders of all ages and abilities. Head to Shikellamy State Park, located where the West Branch and North Branch of the Susquehanna River come together, and ride the 1.5-mile paved trail that takes you around the marina. Bike rentals are available during the summer. Launch your boat or rent one to spend a day fishing or just enjoying the water. Looking for some road cycling? Ride along Penns Creek for 42 miles of local scenery, tourist attractions, and food stops. Or try the 24-mile Farm and River Ride for a taste of the woods and farms located in the river valley. Don’t have a bike? Stop by Earl’s Bicycle Store and choose from a variety of recreational, mountain, and tandem bikes to fit your adventure while you’re in the area. They can also handle all of your gear and service needs. Plan your visit for the middle of October for the second annual unPAved bike race. Choose from four different routes, ranging in

2. length from 30 miles to the full 120 miles. This race features a rail trail, gravel roads, beautiful fall foliage, and 10,000 feet of climbing. STAY AWHILE Visit Historic Penn’s Cave and Wildlife Park for the United States’ only all-water cavern. A guided boat tour will take you deep into the cave, past giant formations, columns, and cascades. Learn about the regional geology, biology, and geography as you tour the 1,600-acre wildlife preserve, including a natural butterfly garden, bison, and mountain lions. Mine for gemstones or complete the maze on site. Clyde Peeling’s Reptiland highlights reptiles and amphibians from around the world. Escape the city to the Ned Smith Center for Nature and Art. Wander the trails through more than 500 acres of hardwood forest, waterways, and scenic overlooks of the area. Three galleries on site display the work of wildlife artists from around the country. Soar above the valley with the U.S. Hot Air Balloon Team with daily sunrise and sunset flights. For some indoor fun, head to the Carlisle Sports Emporium for a day of go-karts, miniature golf, laser tag, and more. Refuel at any one of the local restaurants, featuring fine dining, homestyle cooking, and sweet treats. Unwind at one of the 13 breweries on the River Rat Brew Trail or the 16 wineries on the Susquehanna Heartland Wine Trail as you enjoy a drink with a view. Extend your vacation when you stay at one of the many campgrounds, RV parks, and hotels in the area. Sleep beside the Susquehanna River or on a family farm as you rest up for another day of fun. No matter your speed, the scenic Susquehanna River Valley is the perfect getaway for your next biking adventure. VISITCENTRALPA.ORG

1. Cyclists enjoying the the ride in Pennsylvania’s Susquehanna River Valley. 2. Hike the trails at Chimney Rocks for some great views.

OFF ROAD AND FORESTRY RIDING Raymond B. Winter State Park offers 25 miles of off-road riding and connects with an additional 100 miles of forestry roads in Bald Eagle State Forest. UNPAVED BIKE RACE Choose from four different routes, ranging in length from 30 miles to the full 120 miles at the unPAved bike race.

LAUREL HIGHLANDS, PA

The Laurel Highlands, home to Pennsylvania’s highest point and deepest gorge, features diverse terrain that cyclists of all types will enjoy. Home to eight state parks, two state forests, and five national park sites, this region is a recreation mecca. From bike packing trips to a downhill course built for speed, miles of roads and trails will keep you entertained for days. Head to Ohiopyle State Park for a variety of singletrack, cross country, and rugged mountain biking trails. Beginners and experts alike will have fun playing on the big climbs and downhills while taking in the stunning landscape. Take a short hike to view Ohiopyle and Cucumber Falls, boulder at one of several climbing areas, or hop on the natural waterslides in Meadow Run. Run the Youghiogheny River with a whitewater rafting or float trip. Technical riders will appreciate Laurel Mountain’s extensive trail network and unique rock garden features. Connect with miles of gravel roads through Forbes State Forest to make the most out of your day in the saddle. Choose from several routes, varying in length, for great views, swimming holes, and blooming mountain laurel in June. Check out the recently opened, machine-built Quenahoning Trails which offers flowy singletrack rides around a mountain reservoir. Pedal the Great Allegheny Passage, a 150-mile rail trail, for multiple days of riding through the countryside. Connect with other trails, like the C&O Canal Towpath, to extend your ride from the Laurel Highlands to Washington, D.C. Stop by Seven Springs Mountain Resort for the only downhill rated course in the region. Test your skills on black diamonds, rock gardens, table tops, and everything in between. Two high-speed chair lifts will take you back to the top to do it all over again. Rent a bike and protective gear or take a lesson to get started on the trails.

5. While in town, the folks at Wilderness Voyageurs can hook you up with rentals, maintenance services, and shuttles for a full day of riding in Ohiopyle. At Route 31 Bike, Board, and Ski, you’ll find the top brands the industry has to offer. Confluence Cyclery and West Newton Bicycle Shop are conveniently located along the Great Allegheny Passage for riders in need of repairs, rentals, or parts. Demo a bike or join a group ride with Flat Tire Co. STAY AWHILE Round out your trip to Laurel Highlands with a mixture of outdoor adventures, culture, food, and drinks. Standup paddle board on Laurel Hill Lake or Youghiogheny Lake. If you’re looking for a long-distance excursion, hike 70 miles along the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail that runs along the ridge. Cool off at Idlewild & SoakZone, named one of the “Best Children’s Park” in America, featuring classic amusement park rides and a giant outdoor waterpark. Spend all day ziplining, horseback riding, and swimming at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort. The area is home to five national park sites, including the Flight 93 National Memorial and Fort Necessity National Battlefield, and four Frank Lloyd Wright houses, including Fallingwater which was recently named an UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a long day playing, fill up with food and drinks at one of the many hot spots in the area. Falls City Pub and Restaurant is the place to go in Ohiopyle State Park with its extensive beer menu and live music. Hop off the Great Allegheny Passage for a drink, or two, from Bloom Brew. If you’re riding in the state forest, take your pick of libations from Helltown Brewing, Christian W. Klay Winery, and Ridge Runner Distillery. There’s always something to do when you visit the Laurel Highlands of Pennsylvania. LAURELHIGHLANDS.ORG

3. Ohiopyle State Park, courtesy of the Laurel Highlands Visitors Bureau. 4. Great Allegheny Passage bike trail, Ohiopyle State Park, courtesy of the Laurel Highlands Visitors Bureau. 5. Seven Springs Mountain Resort courtesy of the Laurel Highlands Visitors Bureau.

TRAIL VARIETY Ohiopyle State Park offers a variety of singletrack, cross country, and rugged mountain biking trails. ALONG THE WAY Bike shops and restaurants along the Great Allegheny Passage will keep you fueled as you ride from the Laurel Highlands to Washington, D.C.

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TUCKER COUNTY, WV

Whether you prefer singletrack, gravel roads, or greenways, Tucker County, West Virginia has plenty to offer biking enthusiasts. Head to Monongahela National Forest for the Plantation Trail, the area’s most famous singletrack. Prepare for rocks, roots, creeks, and elevation change as the trail branches off. Moon Rocks’ notorious bedrock is a giant chess game that has been challenging riders for decades in the Camp 70 trail system. Over 100 miles of singletrack trail are all accessible from the town of Davis. The Allegheny Highlands Rail Trail offers panoramic views of the countryside. Be prepared for some steep climbs and descends as this 24-mile trail passes through small towns and rural farmland. Link up with Blackwater Canyon Rail Trail as the old rail line meanders through the canyon and provides a sense of solitude among the trees. Stop by Blackwater Bikes for all of your cycling needs while you’re in town. Rent a bike for the day, ask for trail recommendations from local riders, or sign up for shuttles to nearby trails from one of West Virginia’s premier bike shops. Mark your calendar for the Canaan Mountain Bike Festival hosted by former Trek World Team member and Canaan Valley resident Sue Haywood every June. This three-day festival is all about riding bikes and connecting with friends, both old and new. Take part in the bike skills clinics with professional instructors from around the region. You’ll want to come back year after year for the group rides, music, food, and trail work. When you’re done with your bike, explore all of the public lands Tucker County has to offer. Depending on the season, you’ll find plenty of hiking, biking, tubing, and skiing to keep you going all day at Canaan Valley Resort State Park. Take in the wildlife and scenery by horse with Mountain Trail Rides. Hike to the waterfalls and play disc golf at Blackwater Falls State Park.

3. Explore the highest plateau east of the Mississippi at Dolly Sods Wilderness and Scenic Area. Refuel with unique burritos from Hellbender Burritos or pizza from Sirianni’s. Head to TipTop for some coffee and Stumptown Ales or Mountain State Brewing for after ride craft beers. Hit up the Purple Fiddle for live music, ice cream. See what makes West Virginia home to some world-class mountain biking trails when you visit Tucker County. CANAANVALLEY.ORG

PRESTONSBURG, KY

Prestonsburg is a backroad biker’s dream, from winding roads to mountain-side biking trails. Road running cyclists will enjoy the Appalachian air on a scenic ride along Dewey Lake, located within the Jenny Wiley State Resort Park. Thrill-seeking enthusiasts can take an adventure into the wilderness on the Sugarcamp Mountain Trails. The 20-miles of hand dug trails should be on every seasoned mountain biker’s wish list. When you’re ready to jump off the bike, plan a hike or grab a kayak and hit the Levisa Fork River. Whatever floats your boat. For those ready for indoor entertainment, catch your favorite new performer at the Mountain Arts Center or wander through a NASA exhibit at the East KY Science Center and Planetarium. History buffs will be enthralled with the Middle Creek National Battlefield. Enjoy one of the five bike-friendly hotels or set up camp outdoor. When the day is done, pull up a seat at a local eatery and delight in live music and a cool craft beer brewed with local hops. Here, music is plentiful, food is grandma approved, and visitors become kin. So, grab your bike and let Prestonsburg help plan your next adventure. PRESTONSBURGKY.ORG

1. Moon Rocks in Tucker County. Photos by Brian Sarfino. 2. Canaan Mountain Backcountry. Photo by Tucker County CVB. 3. Sugarcamp Mountain Trails. Photo courtesy of Prestonsburg Tourism.

EASY ACCESS Over 100 miles of singletrack trail are accessible from the town of Davis. FOR THE THRILL-SEEKER Sugarcamp Mountain Trails offers 20-miles of hand dug trails for thrill-seeking enthusiasts.

WINCHESTER, KY

Nestled in the heart of the Bluegrass Region, Winchester, Kentucky is a picturesque destination filled with miles of rolling hills and winding curves. Bike the River Route, starting and ending in downtown Winchester. Ride for 28 miles through some of the most scenic and historic sites in the area, travelling alongside the Kentucky River. Break for a snack at Hall’s On The River and Waterfront Grille and Gathering, both stops on the regionally-renowned Beer Cheese Trail. Visit Harkness Edwards Winery for a locally-grown red or white wine. If you’re in the mood to hop off the bike, Lower Howards Creek is a great place to explore beautiful trails. Avoid road traffic with the Alley Tour that winds through several historic neighborhoods and downtown. If you’re looking to challenge yourself, try the Century Route as you ride through Clark County for 101.3 miles Need a bike? Rent one from Winchester-Clark County Parks and Rec for just 10 dollars per bike. Legacy Grove Park is the perfect place to get your kids on a bike. A multi-use, ADA accessible path loops through the 31 acres, including play areas, rain gardens, and open green spaces. From the historic downtown to the lush scenery, discover all that Winchester has to offer by bike. TOURWINCHESTER.COM

SHENANDOAH COUNTY, VA

Surrounded by the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains, Shenandoah County sits in a valley marked by rolling hills and beautiful mountain views around every turn. Beginners and technical riders alike should check out the mountain biking trails at Bryce Resort. Access eight different trails by lift to spend all day on the mountain. Bring your own bike or rent one from the shop. Hardcore mountain bikers can ride more than 480 miles of singletrack in the backcountry as the Virginia Mountain Biking

8. Trail winds through the George Washington and Jefferson National Forests. Road cyclists will enjoy cruising from town to town along the scenic Route 11. Take the back roads as you pass by miles of mountains, wineries, and the Meems Bottom Covered Bridge. While you’re in the area, spend your nights at the Hopewell House Bike & Bed. With a twist on the traditional B&B, the owners provide a hearty breakfast before a day of riding and a storage facility with an “on your own” maintenance shop. For a small fee, they will pick up rental bikes from a nearby bike shop so you’re ready to ride. Experience all Shenandoah County has to offer by bike on your next weekend getaway. VISITSHENANDOAHCOUNTY.COM

VIRGINIA STATE PARKS

From the Chesapeake Bay to the Blue Ridge Mountains, Virginia State Parks are ideal for bikers to explore. Virginia State Parks have more than 55 miles of biking and mountain biking trails, approximately 138 miles of hiking and biking trails, and around 256 miles of multi-use trails for hikers, biker, and horseback riders. (It’s difficult to measure exactly how many miles of trails exist in Virginia State Parks, because more trails are added every year. Here are just a few examples of biking opportunities in Virginia State Parks. Just 20 miles from Richmond, Pocahontas State Park is a mountain biker’s dream destination. With more than 58 miles of trails available for mountain biking, you can choose from directional and multi-use trails, including singletrack, machinebuilt flow, and hand-cycle friendly routes. These trails are part of the International Mountain Bicycling Association Bronze-Level Richmond Regional Ride Center, making it one of the top biking destinations in the region. Choose from on-site yurts, cabins, and campsites to be close to the action and to extend your visit. Visit again and again as more trails are added and the system

4. Civil War Fort at Boonesboro. Photo by Chris Radcliffe.

5. Lower Howards Creek. Photo by Chris Radcliffe. 6. Palmyra Church Road Group riding in Edinburg. Photo by Synaptic Visuals. 7. Palmyra Church Road Group riding in Edinburg. Photo by Synaptic Visuals. 8. Photo taken at Pocahontas State Park.

ON THE TRAIL The River Route travels 28 miles through some of the most scenic and historic sites in Winchester. SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Bryce Resort has eight different trails to access by lift for beginners and technical riders alike.

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1. continues to expand. In coastal Virginia, York River State Park was the first Virginia State Park to create a bike-only trail guide. Nine multi-use and eight mountain bike-only trails are enough to fill a day with excitement and fun. Trails range from short and easy to the Marl Ravine Trail. The 6-mile, singletrack trail is for advanced riders only. HELMETS ARE REQUIRED. Twists and turns follow steep ravines cut into ancient shell deposits from the Tertiary Period when the entire area was under a shallow sea. The trail is steep and narrow in places, with occasional overhanging obstructions. Riders should familiarize themselves with trail etiquette and rules of the road before attempting Marl Ravine Trail. Surrounded by the George Washington and Jefferson National Forest, Douthat State Park sits among the mountains near the Virginia border. Choose from 22 different trails varying in difficulty and length as you explore this mountainous retreat. All told, the park has more than 40 miles of multi-use trails. Fish for trout and bass in Douthat Lake or rent a canoe from the boathouse for some fun on the water. Fuel up at the restaurant overlooking the lake or pack a picnic to eat by a waterfall. Reserve a campsite by the lake and fall asleep to the gentle sounds of the water. In central Virginia, Staunton River State Park is the perfect biking destination by the water. Take in views of Buggs Island Lake, Staunton River and Dan River as you race along one of eight multi-use trails. Beginner and intermediate riders will find plenty of loops to choose from as they test their skills outside. Cool off after a day on the trails with a paddle on the water, freshwater fishing, or a swim in the pool. This International Dark Sky Park is also the perfect spot to make camp and watch the stars. Rent a telescope from the park for ideal viewing, and don’t forget to check the schedule for interpretive programs. For more on everything Virginia State Parks has to offer, visit VIRGINIASTATEPARKS.GOV.

BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAIN BIKING CONFERENCE, VA

Are you interested in developing and attracting mountain bike events to your area? Do you want to help develop the next generation of mountain bikers? Are you looking for funding sources for your next mountain bike project? Then mark your calendar for the 2020 Blue Ridge Mountain Biking Conference in Roanoke, Virginia. Serve the future of mountain biking while shifting economic development, tourism, recreation, and business into high gear in America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital and IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center. Gordon Wadsworth, a professional mountain biker and Roanoke resident, will be headlining the conference as a keynote speaker. “There is no better place to dive into mountain bike and outdoor tourism than the heart of Virginia’s Blue Ridge at the Blue Ridge Mountain Biking Conference,” he said. “As an epicenter of growth in the cycling industry, Roanoke, Virginia, is the perfect place to gather outdoor and economic development industry leaders and mountain bike stakeholders in one place with an eye toward developing more engaged, informed and prepared outdoor communities.” The conference, created by Virginia Tech and presented by Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge, will bring together stakeholders from around the region, from parks and recreation professionals and bike event organizers, to land managers and economic development authorities. As more communities recognize the importance of mountain biking and outdoor recreation on the economy and health of a region, this conference is a chance to connect with other industry leaders and mountain biking enthusiasts in one place. “Communities can leverage their outdoor assets to attract tourists, grow businesses, attract talent, and influence their global narrative,” Beth Doughty, executive director of the Roanoke Regional Partnership, said. “The outdoor economy creates significant economic impact if you know how to take advantage of the opportunity.”

1. Photo taken at Pocahontas State Park. 2. Carvins Cove, Roanoke, VA. Photo by Sam Dean Photography, Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge. 3. Dody Ridge, Roanoke, VA. Photo by Sam Dean Photography, Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge.

YORK TRAILS York River State Park has nine multi-use and eight mountain bike-only trails. MULTI-USE Douthat State Park has more than 40 miles of multi-use trails to explore. DON’T MISS Gordon Wadsworth, a professional mountain biker, will be headlining the Blue Ridge Mountain Biking Conference as a keynote speaker.

4. Attend breakout sessions on how to build relationships with local governments and community members through public and private partnerships. Discuss ways to engage new groups of potential mountain bikers with other leaders in the field. Get a behind-thescenes look at what goes into building and maintaining trails. While you’re in the area, discover all that Roanoke has to offer, including hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, food, and drinks. The conference will be held May 6-8, 2020 at The Hotel Roanoke & Conference Center. Register by February 21 before the price increases. If you’re dedicated to growing mountain biking tourism and recreation in your community, this is a conference you won’t want to miss. BLUERIDGEMTB.COM

ROANOKE- VIRGINIA’S BLUE RIDGE

As America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital, there’s no better place to get outside than the Roanoke Valley in Virginia’s Blue Ridge. With more than 300 miles of trails and 15 breweries, it’s the perfect place for a day of mountain biking, capped off with a beer or two. Check out these bike and brew matchups to make the most out of your trip. For some urban trails just minutes from Downtown Roanoke, head to Mill Mountain Park. Challenge yourself as you take in the views of the valley below. Make sure to view the iconic Roanoke Star while you’re at the top. Take advantage of the location and visit one of several breweries in the city, including Big Lick Brewing Company, Soaring Ridge Craft Brewers, Deschutes Brewery, and Starr Hill Pilot Brewery. Beginners will enjoy exploring Waid Recreation Park, including several ADA accessible trails, winding paths along the Pigg River, and the new Old Buzzard jump line. Kick back and relax at Hammer & Forge Brewing Company on your way back into the city. Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway, discover more than 14 miles of trails at Explore Park. Rent a tube and float the Roanoke River or soar above the trees on an aerial adventure course. Be close to the action when you stay at one of the cabins or campsites on the property. Head over to the nearby town of Vinton to Twin Creeks

5. Brewing Company for a rotating tap, food trucks, and live music. North Mountain, or Dragon’s Back as many local riders call it, has some of the best backcountry riding in the region. You’ll be sweating and smiling all day as you follow the technical trail along the ridgeline. Stop by Olde Salem Brewing Company for a reward for working hard for every mile. If you’re looking for singletrack, look no further than Carvins Cove. With more than 60 miles of multi-use trails, riders of all levels can test their skills over multiple days. A reservoir on the natural preserve is the perfect place to cool down as you paddle or fish the afternoon away. There’s no better way to relax than a cold one on the patio at the Parkway Brewing Company. Explore the area surrounding Philpott Lake by bike at Jamison Mill Park. Spend the afternoon riding through the woods and along the lake on the three primary loops. Go for a swim or a paddle on the lake, surrounded by 100 miles of undeveloped shoreline. On your way back to Roanoke, grab a drink at Chaos Mountain Brewing Co., an award-winning craft brewery known for its flagship brews and seasonal options. Head deep into the backcountry on the Price & Patterson Mountain Trail system. The two ridgelines run parallel to each other with trails connecting the routes between the two mountains. If you enjoy singletrack and downhill runs, keep an eye out as groups are working to connect more trails in the George Washington and Jefferson National Forest. Visit Ballast Point Brewing Company’s first tasting room on the East Coast, featuring stunning views of Virginia’s Blue Ridge and a fire pit. From singletrack and paved paths to a pumptrack and skills areas, Falling Creek Park has something for every kind of rider. Stretch out your legs with a round of disc golf. If you prefer German-style beer and barbecue, the menu at Beale’s will have your taste buds watering all night long. The whole family is welcome, including your pet, on the outdoor patio. Enjoy the best of biking and beer when you visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge- America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital. BIKEVBR.COM

4.Enchanted Forest at Carvins Cove. Photo by Jared Ladia, Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge.

5.Ballast Point

Brewing Company. Photo by Sam Dean Photography, Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge.

CLOSE TO THE PARKWAY Explore Park offers more than 14 miles of trails just off the Blue Ridge Parkway. CAN’T BEAT CARVINS COVE Carvins Cove offers more than 60 miles of multi-use trails where riders of all levels can test their skills over multiple days.

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VIRGINIA BEACH, VA

Get ready to explore Virginia Beach by bike. With more than 200 miles of bikeways and trails, and new ones being added all the time, you’re sure to find an adventure that fits your style. Explore the seven distinct ecosystems at First Landing State Park. Bike 19 miles of interpretive trails through protected habitats like the maritime forest community. At 7.5 miles, the Cape Henry Trail is the longest in the park. Pass by old neighborhoods, wildlife, and secluded beaches before the trail connects with the boardwalk. The Virginia Beach Boardwalk was built for cyclists. Separate biking and pedestrian paths allow riders to cruise along the coast unimpeded by cars and people. Rent one of the four-wheel surrey bikes from one of several stations easily accessible right off the beach. Cherie’s Bike and Blade Rentals has a bike for everyone along the entire oceanfront, including tandems, in-line skates, and beach umbrellas. Bike all the way to the North Carolina border from the Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge and False Cape State Park. You can escape the city and noise in this secluded environment, one of the last undeveloped areas on the East Coast. Pass by marshes, swamps, and wildlife as you ride to the beach, inaccessible by car. Experienced riders will enjoy the challenge of the Sand Ridge Trail, the longest in the park. If you prefer riding pavement, there are several options available in the area. The Lynnhaven Parkway Trail is perfect for beginners looking for an easy ride. At six miles in length, you can stretch your legs without turning your ride into an all-day event. Extend your ride as you connect with other pathways in the area. The Independence Boulevard Trail will take you south to the scenic Stumpy Lake Natural Area with raised overlooks of the water. Check out the Pungo Loop Trail, a local favorite for its unbeatable views of vineyards, strawberry fields, and

waterways. At just under 20 miles, this loop is perfect for road riders of all kinds. While you’re in the area, stop at one of the many farms to pick your own produce. Explore the culture of Coastal Virginia on the Bike, Brew, and Arts Trail or the Bike, Brew, and History Trail. These two long distance rides will take you through the city to where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean. Stop at restaurants, breweries, the Cape Henry Lighthouse, and more along the way. Those with little ones will enjoy the Family Fun Trail. This shorter ride will take you past a water park with slides, an adventure park with ziplining, and the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center. Try a ride with an ocean view when you take to the sandy beaches with a fat tire bike. Check out Surf and Adventure Company or Ocean Rentals LTD for bikes made for riding on wet sand. Back Bay Getaways offers guided mountain bike tours and daily rentals. Paddle the bay or take an overnight trip into False Cape State Park. Prefer riding with a group? Join one of the free morning rides Fat Frogs Bike and Fitness offers seven days a week. A variety of pace and distance offerings allows riders of all abilities to join in on the fun through the Pungo Area. All rides depart at 7:30 in the morning and include free bagels and coffee. At the end of the day, dine by the water and spend the night at one of the many lodging options in the area. No matter your speed, you can enjoy all of this, and more, when you visit Virginia Beach. VISITVIRGINIABEACH.COM

TOWNSEND, TN

Escape the hustle and bustle of your day to day in the Peaceful Side of the Smokies. Townsend, Tennessee has everything to make your relaxing getaway a memorable experience.

1. Cyclists enjoy the views at First Landing State Park in Virginia Beach. 2. Cruise along the coast on the Virginia Beach Boardwalk. There are plenty of rental options for riders.

N.C. STATE LINE You can bike all the way to the North Carolina border from the Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge and False Cape State Park. DID YOU KNOW? The Virginia Beach Boardwalk has separate paths for cyclists and pedestrians.

3. Grab your bike and ride the Cades Cove Loop in the Smoky Mountains. This must-do ride is an environmentally-friendly way to see the cove and minimize your impact. Bring your own or rent a bike from Cades Cove Campground Store. Plan your ride for a Wednesday or Saturday between May and September when the loop is closed to car traffic before 10 a.m. Ride along the Maryville-Alcoa Greenway as it follows Pistol Creek and Greenbelt Lake, connecting existing parks along one path. Cyclists of all abilities will enjoy riding along this paved path with access to restaurants, shopping, and picnic spots. Not enough room to pack your bike for the trip? Stop by Cycology Bicycles for a bike that fits your needs or join one of their weekly group rides. They are fully equipped to handle all of your bike’s tune-ups and repairs. Rent a bike and helmet from the Smoky Mountain Outdoors Center for a few hours or a few days. Or spend the day floating down the Little River in a tube as you take in the sights of the Smoky Mountains. Stop by the Little River Trading Company or More to Life Outfitters for all your last-minute gear needs before heading out for the day. If you’re looking to get more out of your visit, connect with Just Get Outdoors for customized adventures. They will tailor their environmental education programs, naturalist outings, guided hikes, and photography workshops to fit your group. If you want to get on the water, look no further than Smoky Mountain River Rat for a day of tubing and whitewater rafting. Take in the majestic views of the Smoky Mountains as you soar above trees and streams. Next to Heaven offers breathtaking views of Wears Valley as you zipline in the forest canopy. Cool off when you take a trip beneath the surface at Tuckaleechee Caverns. Estimated to be between 20 to 30 million years old, you will experience caverns rich in history and formations.

4. STAY AWHILE When you’re done playing outside, explore the towns of Maryville and Townsend for restaurants and entertainment for the whole family. Experience the hospitality of the Walnut Kitchen, a neighborhood restaurant with a seasonal menu. For a true farmto-table dining affair, the Dancing Bear Lodge Appalachian Bistro uses fresh produce grown on-site and sources the highest quality local ingredients to create their dishes. Head to the Foothills Milling Company for some classic southern dishes. Unwind with beer, burgers, and the best blues music in the region at Brackins Blues Bar. Keep an eye on their event list as they host various artists and bands throughout the year. The brewers at Blackberry Farm Brewery have something to offer for everyone from their menu of well-crafted beers. Or check out the award-winning wines and beautiful views at Cades Cove Cellars, located at the foot of the Smoky Mountains. Extend your getaway when you stay at one of the dozens of bed and breakfasts, cabins, and hotels in the area. Sleep close to the action by reserving a campsite nearby, complete with full hookups and glamping options. Discover the gateway to Great Smoky Mountains National Park when you visit Townsend, Tennessee. SMOKYMOUNTAINS.ORG

3. Running the Maryville -Alcoa Greenway. Photo courtesy of Smoky Mountain Tourism Development Authority. 4. Ride along the Maryville-Alcoa Greenway as it follows Pistol Creek and Greenbelt Lake.

ONE PATH, TWO PARKS The Maryville-Alcoa Greenway follows Pistol Creek and Greenbelt Lake, connecting existing parks along one path.

BRYSON CITY, NC

Escape from the city and spend your weekend biking and fishing in Bryson City, North Carolina, the Gateway to the Great Smoky Mountains. With 42 miles of trails, the Tsali Recreation Area Trail System is a must visit for mountain bikers of all abilities. The four flowy loops are considered among the top ten riding destinations in the country. Visit the Nantahala Outdoor Center for bike

CADES COVER LOOP Ride the Cades Cove Loop before 10 a.m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays when the road is closed to car traffic.

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OUR FAVORITE TIME SEPTEMBER 2019 The kids are back in school, the days are getting shorter, and the temperatures are starting to fall… sort of. September is the beginning of our favorite time of year. Now that the crowds have dispersed and it’s easier to watch the sun rise, we’ve got more time to see the beautiful West. This month, we’re taking a road trip to all our favorite national parks accessible from Colorado. Stay tuned with updates on the ‘Gram @liveoutsideandplay. G E A R W E ’ R E LO V I N G

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The plaid Eddy has become our go-to mountain shirt. The water- and wind-resistant long-sleeve can take you from the mountain, lake, or river straight into the office. When you’re on the road and a washing machine is a few hundred miles away, this is the shirt you want. It’s hard to keep clothes looking nice in a van, but we store our Eddies in our perpetually cramped drawers and they always look sharp every time we dig them out.

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1. Fire Mountain Trails. Photo by Tsali Cycles.

rentals, rafting trips, and more. Hop on the nearby Fontana Lake for some of the best walleye, muskie, and smallmouth bass fishing around. Hikers can easily access the Appalachian Trail, which crosses Fontana Dam, and explore more of TSALI RECREATION AREA this wilderness area. TRAIL SYSTEM Spend a quiet morning on the water and The four flowy loops at Tsali experience the solitude of the Great Smoky Recreation Area Trail System‘s Mountains while you fish Deep Creek, just are considered among the top minutes from town. Families will enjoy biking ten riding destinations in the beside the water on the Deep Creek and Indian country. Creek trails for a flat, out and back ride through the national park. Keep an eye out for several waterfalls along the way. Find a spot to cast your line on the Nantahala, Little Tennessee, or Tuckasegee River for excellent trout and smallmouth bass fishing. In the afternoon, check out the Fire Mountain Trail System in Cherokee for machine-cut trails loaded with tables, rock gardens, and berms. While you’re in town, check in with the people who know the area best for trail info and stream reports. The folks at Tsali Cycles offer everything from bike rentals and repairs to weekly group rides on local trails. The guides at Fly Fishing the Smokies can help you plan a wade or float trip you’ll never forget. Stop by the Tuckaseegee Fly Shop for all the supplies you’ll need and private water trips. Plan a visit for the whole family in October to take part in the annual Smoky Mountains Fly Fishing Festival, including rod demos, casting clinics, and the latest gear. Afterward, spend your day exploring the trails in the area. After a day outside, there is still plenty to do in this mountain town. Learn about the evolution of fly fishing, influential anglers, and the art of fly tying at the Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians. Kick back and have a drink at Nantahala Brewing Company, Mountain Layers Brewing, or Deep Creek Winery to relax. Spend your days surrounded by the mountains and waters of Western North Carolina when you visit Bryson City. GREATSMOKIES.COM

Want to turn your current vehicle into an all-out adventure rig? The Falcon is the latest in Roofnest’s line of lightweight, easy to use roof-top tents. The Falcon attaches to any vehicle with cross bars, and it takes just minutes to install. When collapsed, the Falcon is only 7 inches tall, which helps save gas mileage. Really want to step your game up? The Falcon has two accessory channels on all four sides for mounting light bars or an awning. You also have the option to add a set of crossbars that can carry a bike, kayak, or skis.

LEKI: LEGACY LITE COR-TEC AS (MEN’S AND WOMEN’S)

Leki knows a thing or two about making trekking poles. They’ve been in the business for over 60 years. The Legacy Lite COR-TEC AS brings together all of that experience. These poles feature Leki’s ultra lite, high-tensile strength aluminum shafts, and we can tell you from experience they can handle some serious abuse. (We even took a pair skiing this spring.) Available in both men’s and women’s specific versions. SCHEDULE

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THE MOST IMPORTANT CONSERVATION LAW ON THE BOOKS—THE E N D A N G E R E D S P E C I E S A C T— I S U N D E R AT TA C K . I T ’ S N O T J U S T W O LV E S A N D SALAMANDERS THAT WILL SUFFER. OUR FAVORITE ADVENTURE SPOTS ARE ALSO CRITICAL HABITAT FOR MANY RARE SPECIES. BY NOAH POULOS

t is perhaps the most selfless law our country has ever passed: the Endangered Species Act (ESA). The ESA was signed into law in 1973 by—of all people—Richard Nixon, with strong bipartisan support, ushering in a new era of conservation in the United States. Under the ESA, species with declining populations can be listed under the titles threatened or endangered. Threatened species are those that are at immediate risk of becoming endangered, while the endangered species are those that are at risk of becoming extinct. Most importantly, species on the Endangered Species list must have their critical habitat protected. The endangered red wolf, for example, must have a designated amount of habitat protected in the wild so it can recover. By conserving vital habitat for threatened and endangered species, the ESA has had a 99 percent success rate in preventing extinction since its inception. “The ESA has allowed the designation of millions of acres of critical habitat, which is crucial to species' survival and recovery,'' according to Noah Greenwald, endangered species director at the Center for Biological Diversity. “In fact, imperiled species with federally protected critical habitat are twice as likely to be recovering as those without.” The Southeast and Mid-Atlantic boasts some of the highest biodiversity in the country, largely because of the many different ecosystems, from mountain tops to ocean bays. The places we go to play are the same places that species, endangered or not, need to survive.

WEAKENING THE ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT?

In August, the Trump administration isannounced a series of revisions to the ESA, primarily to reduce obstacles it places on the oil and gas industries. Trump-appointed Secretary of the Interior David Bernhardt, a former oil lobbyist, claims that the 48

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

changes will minimize “regulatory burdens” placed on oil and gas companies. The changes narrow the scope of protections for species, allow agencies more leeway, and give industry more influence. The changes will also weigh economic impacts of listing a species more heavily. The ESA currently bases their listing of endangered or threatened species solely on scientific data, “without reference to possible economic or other impacts of such determination.” The administration has removed that phrase, opening the door for roads, pipelines, golf courses, and other development to occur in places where listed species would previously have been protected. While economics should be considered when creating policy solutions to protect wildlife, doing so when determining whether a species should be listed “would be like considering the costs of treatment when making a medical diagnosis,” argues Holly Pearen, senior attorney with the Environmental Defense Fund (EDF). “The cost of treatment in no way determines the science-based diagnosis. The same must hold true for diagnosing the health of at-risk wildlife.” A pressing example in our region is the development of the Atlantic Coast Pipeline, which is proposed to go through West Virginia, Virginia, and North Carolina. The pipeline would degrade sensitive habitats of four listed species in its path, the clubshell mussel, the madison cave isopod, the indiana bat, and the rusty-patched bumble bee. The Atlantic Coast Pipeline claims that it is, “a critical infrastructure project that will strengthen the economic vitality, environmental health, and energy security of the Mid-Atlantic region.” While construction has been halted to assess impacts on endangered species, it is currently under review by the Supreme Court. Under Trump’s proposed changes, this and future development of its kind will

T H E F L O R I D A PA N T H E R I S O N E O F D O Z E N S O F E N D A N G E R E D S P E C I E S I N T H E S O U T H E A S T W H O S E R E C O V E R Y I S J E O PA R D I Z E D B Y T H E T R U M P A D M I N I S T R AT I O N R O L L B A C K S .

be allowed to take place, regardless of the impact it has on endangered species. Additionally, the administration is seeking to make it easier to delist species from the ESA. Bernhardt argues that the standards for delisting a species have been pushed higher than the act initially intended. “The goal [of the act] is recovery — to send the healthier patients home where they can continue to receive the lower level of care they still need.” The concern with Bernhardt’s approach is that species will be delisted prematurely, sending recovering populations plummeting. “The stated intent [of the revisions] is to expand oil and gas drilling,” says Greenwald. “It is quite possible we will lose species because of the hostility and callousness shown by this administration.” In the first 22 months of the Trump administration, only 15 species were listed, the fewest since Reagan. “They are gumming up the works. We are hearing from people inside the Department of Interior that biologists’ recommendations to list certain species are just sitting there, unsigned. They are basically following an oil and gas wishlist to weaken protections,” Greenwald says. The proposed changes have yet to be finalized after a period of public comment last fall. Once finalized, the provisions will have to be passed by both houses of Congress, where representatives backed by extractive industries will push hard to have it passed.

THE ESA IS NOT ENOUGH

“The ESA is a landmark act that is the cornerstone of species recovery in our country and a model for the rest of the world,” Mays says. “But federal listing of a species should not be a primary goal by itself. Rather, we should invest in holistic conservation

(LEFT) ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING RED WOLVES ( C A N U S R U F U S ) AT A R E F U G E I N E A S T E R N N O R T H C A R O L I N A . / P H O T O B Y H E N R Y G AT E S

of ecosystems—with listing of critically imperiled species as a measure of last resort.” While the ESA has been extremely successful at preventing species on the edge of extinction from being lost forever, it is not intended to protect biodiversity as a whole. “The ESA does benefit species where they have become so rare that recovery is impossible otherwise, but it is important to note that recovering a species before they need listing is much easier than after they need listing,” Mays argues. “For many species, what is left to work with by the time of listing is not enough to have good options for long-term recovery. We may be able to prevent extinction, but may be left with too few healthy populations to effectively recover the species.” J.J. Apodaca, associate executive director and director of science with The Amphibian and Reptile Conservancy, argues that citizens and scientists alike should be doing everything in their power to save biodiversity. Prioritizing the protection of all species, whether or not they are on the brink of extinction, is vital to our well-being as humans. “Eventually, the loss of wildlife, plants, and all biodiversity will impact everyone. Whether that is the loss of iconic species, the loss of ecosystem services, or recreation, the loss of biodiversity really does impact our mind, body, and soul.”

Gunshot mortality remains the numberone killer of red wolves, whose numbers have dwindled to as few as 25. Despite the challenges that red wolf conservationists face, the public has shown immense support for recovering red wolf populations. Of 55,000 comments submitted to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service regarding public opinion of red wolf conservation, 99.8 percent supported their recovery. But how can this be done? Ben Prater, a biologist with Defenders of Wildlife, argues that efforts should be focused towards more captive breeding programs and identifying other suitable recovery sites, including in other Southeastern states. “We have the habitat and ability to facilitate recovery. It comes down to political will and capital.”

APPALACHIAN ELKTOE MUSSEL

A small and unassuming creature, the Appalachian Elktoe Mussel lives in scattered populations in portions of several river systems in North Carolina and Tennessee. Once ranging throughout these rivers, the federally endangered elktoe mussel has seen a rapid decline, largely due to their specific habitat requirements. “The elktoe seems to be evolved to occupy the upper reaches of mountain rivers where the availability of food and minerals are scarce. A side effect of that specialization is that they are less resilient to alteration of their habitat,” explains Jason Mays, recovery biologist with the FWS. Mays says that elktoe require very clean water and a stable riverbed to survive. Sedimentation from construction projects and new roads prevents the mussels from completing their life cycle. “Young mussels need to settle onto very stable river bottoms where they can burrow down into the sand, but they must also receive sufficient oxygen. When the river bottom becomes fouled with silt from poor land practices, the juveniles don't get enough oxygen and die.” Appalachian elktoes are an indicator of excellent water quality, so prioritizing their survival means ensuring clean water in our region for us and future generations.

THE SOUTH’S MOST ENDANGERED SPECIES

Meet the species in our region that will be extinct within a few decades (or sooner) without urgent and immediate interventions.

RED WOLF

The red wolves’ deep howls were once heard throughout Appalachia and the entire East Coast. Because of its wide distribution, the red wolf played an important role in a variety of ecosystems, from coastal lowlands to forested mountains. Now living in only a fraction of its range, the red wolf persists on small tracts of protected land in Eastern North Carolina. The red wolf is the world's most endangered canid, and the Southeast’s only native wolf. It has lost more of its historical territory—99.7 percent—than any other large carnivore, including lions, tigers, and snow leopards. A relative of the better-known gray wolf, the red wolf is distinguished by its reddish hue and smaller size. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, red wolves were nearly hunted to extinction. By 1980, hunting and habitat loss left less than 20 individuals in the wild. These same wolves were captured by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) and put

(ABOVE) AN EASTERN HELLBENDER (CRYPTOBRANCHUS ALLEGANIENSIS) FORAGES ALONG A STREAM BANK IN THE RIVER. P H O T O B Y H E N R Y G AT E S

into a captive breeding program to bring back their population under the ESA. The population rebounded remarkably to over 140 individuals in the 21st century. Unfortunately, a small group of hunters and landowners have taken aim at the red wolf and convinced the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service to suspend its protections for the endangered wolf.

HELLBENDER

The largest salamander species in North America, the Eastern hellbender is native to cool, clean streams throughout watersheds along the Appalachian mountains. Reaching sizes of up to two feet, Hellbenders spend their lives on the bottoms of streams feeding on crayfish, other invertebrates, and in some cases even other hellbenders. These

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incredible, prehistoric-looking amphibians have been a part of Appalachian rivers for over 65 million years. However, pollution, particularly sedimentation, of these waterways has dramatically decreased hellbender populations. Hellbenders, and many other amphibians, breathe through their skin, making them especially vulnerable to pollutants. High levels of sediment on the riverbed bury their eggs, as well as the eggs of many other amphibians and fish, snuffing them out before they can hatch. These remarkable creatures are in peril, but they have not yet received federally endangered status. Though they are considered endangered in some states, including North Carolina. “Unfortunately, that holds very little power over actions. It doesn’t even really affect what the state does in terms of development,” says Apodaca. That development and the subsequent sedimentation are some of the main reasons hellbenders are in decline. As a result, they are mostly only found on large chunks of public land, where the streams they rely on remain relatively clean. Apodaca argues that conservation efforts outside of the ESA should be prioritized by politicians and the public if non-listed species like hellbenders are going to recover. “[The ESA] definitely has its strengths and weaknesses. However, without other conservation efforts, very few species actually recover due to ESA programs. We as a community need to build other tools that help facilitate recovery.”

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

ENDANGERED PLANTS

There are many endangered plants throughout the Southeast, from magnificent wildflowers to tiny lichens. While preventing these plants from going extinct is just as important as it is for their animal counterparts, plant conservationists face a different set of challenges. “One of the main distinctions between plants and animals under the Endangered Species Act, is the act makes it illegal to take an animal without a permit, but no such protection exists for plants,” FWS Biologist Gary Peeples explains. “The reason for this is that animals are a common resource, held in trust for all, so no one has the right to do what they want with wildlife. However,

H E L L E R ’ S B L A Z I N G S TA R ( L I AT R I S H E L L E R I ) C A N B E F O U N D O N H I G H E L E VAT I O N R O C K Y O U T C R O P P I N G S N E A R B O O N E , N C . / P H O T O COURTESY FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE

plants are personal property. Ownership of a plant goes with ownership of the land where the plant grows.” Though many endangered plants are in trouble because of this distinction, outdoor enthusiasts can do their part in protecting these plants as well. The Fish & Wildlife Service suggests to “tread lightly and stay on designated trails. Vegetation on popular high mountains has virtually been destroyed by human trampling.” Though wandering several feet off trail may seem harmless, it can be the difference in keeping an endangered plant alive.

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ALL IN A DAY’S WORK

naKiesha Bridgers

HOW DID OUTDOOR PROFESSIONALS GET THEIR START? BY ELLEN KANZINGER

s more people are headed outside, outdoor recreation is increasingly an economic factor for towns and states across our region. Virginia just became the fifteenth state to establish an Office of Outdoor Recreation. In its most recent report, the Bureau of Economic Analysis found outdoor recreation accounts for around 2.2 percent of the U.S. GDP. That’s billions of dollars Americans are spending and thousands of jobs they are supporting. So, who are the people protecting these spaces, keeping you safe, and making sure you have a good time outside? And how did they get there?

Outdoor Recreation

When Nakiesha Bridgers studied biology in college, she thought she would go into teaching or the medical field. That is, until she found out outdoor recreation specialist was a full-time position. “My dad always told me follow your passion and everything else will follow,” Bridgers said. “It feels like sometimes in society it’s about following that degree, following where the money is. But when I finally just let go and accepted this is what I enjoy doing, it let me find a way to do this.” Her role with the city of Suffolk, Virginia combines everything she loves about the outdoors as she creates programs to get more people outside. “It is what I make it,” Bridgers said. “I do conservation, education, and recreation, all in one. I spend my free time in the outdoors anyway. They pay me to do what I love.” She uses her instructor certification from the American Canoe Association and USA Archery to lead canoe trips down the river and teach introductory archery classes. Other times, her programs focus on outdoor skills like building fires and pitching tents. “We have this natural environment, and it’s a gift to us,” Bridgers said. “I want to teach people how to really love and appreciate it. It’s important to figure out ways that you can introduce people to the outdoors in a way that makes them feel comfortable.

You have to meet people where they are. I don’t think there’s any traditional route to doing this.” Even if you haven’t found your dream job, Bridger said there are ways to prepare for when you eventually find it. “Find a way to incorporate your passion in the job that you have now,” she said. “When it is time, when that job does become available, you’re able to say this is how I was able to make a difference. Because your passion will show in that area.”

luke ritter

Search and Rescue

When his father suggested they use a drone to help with roof inspections, Luke Ritter saw the potential for the technology beyond construction. He started a business as an aerial real estate photographer to help people show off their homes. That’s how Andrew Herrington, founder of a search and rescue team operating in the Smoky Mountains, found him. Team BUSAR was looking for someone to develop a drone program that could assist in backcountry missions. “We’re putting something in the sky and trying to find people on the ground super quick,” Ritter said. “That’s one of the benefits of drones. It’s very easy to deploy. We’re talking minutes instead of a few hours. When someone’s in trouble, that’s the difference.” As the team’s unmanned aerial systems specialist, Ritter has a Remote Pilot Certificate from the FAA that he must renew every two years. “It’s looked at as a manned aircraft, and we have to treat it as such,” he said. “When we put something up in the sky, we’re very cognizant of what’s on the ground in the event that those things crash. It’s technology. It’s not perfect. It messes up.” Part of Ritter’s job in building up the drone program is networking with others in the field on the best ways to use the rapidly changing technology, such as attending the annual Public Safety UAS Conference and working with the Oak Ridge National Lab to develop a drone better suited for backcountry SAR work.

TOP: NAKIESHA BRIDGERS LEADS A TRIP ON THE RIVER. ABOVE: LUKE R I T T E R D E P L O Y S A D R O N E F O R S E A R C H A N D R E S C U E O P E R AT I O N S .

Right now, most affordable drones have trouble penetrating the canopy forest, struggle with longrange communication, and don’t have a very long flight time. Adding sensors to see through the canopy and designing models that could be carried in a backpack on long treks through the mountains could increase a drone’s usefulness in search and rescue scenarios. If you’re looking to get into unmanned aerial systems, Ritter emphasized knowing your stuff before even buying a drone. “Don’t just go to Best Buy, get a drone, find a field, and start flying it,” he said. “That’s the impulse, and I understand it. There are safety aspects you don’t think of because you’re so excited to fly this awesome piece of technology. But know the regulations, know what the FAA requires, and understand what that drone can do, both good and bad, before you even get in the air.”

Environmental Protection

On any given day, the lawyers at the Southern Environmental Law Center are working on any number of environmental issues. Working at the local, regional, and national level, these attorneys want to ensure the land, water, and air can be enjoyed for generations to come.

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They might be fighting to protect water quality like Chandra Taylor, who knew she wanted to work in the public interest when she went to law school. At SELC, water quality issues were a natural fit. “For me, it’s very tangible,” she said. “Water is one of those things that everybody understands we want. We want enough water, and we want it to be drinkable, fishable, swimmable. So, it resonated as a resource that should be protected.” As an attorney, Taylor’s job is about more than arguing cases in a courtroom. She regularly visits the sites she is trying to protect, monitors self-reporting facilities chandra taylor to ensure they comply with waste water treatment guidelines, and actively works to prevent environmental harm before it happens. “In order to actually allow us to enjoy being outdoors and have clean water, we’re having to monitor these really small units,” Taylor said. “If we let it get so far that humans are getting sick from drinking contaminated water or breathing air that has so many particulates in it that we can’t even take a deep breath, then we know things have become really bad.” They might be opposing offshore drilling on the coast like Sierra Weaver, whose interest in coastal protection began at a young age when her father was diagnosed with chemical poisoning. Her family moved to the coast to get away from the things that were making him sick. “Protecting those areas are really important for people to be able to breathe the air, drink the water, and have a clean environment to live in,” she said. “But also, to be inspired and to experience awe.” According to Weaver, one of the leading threats to the Southeast coast is offshore drilling for oil and gas. “The one thing that is very clear is that when offshore drilling gets into an area, it doesn’t get out of an area,” she said. “Whether we’re saving wetlands or preventing pollution, all of those victories are potentially at risk with this potential of opening that up to offshore drilling.” That is in addition to the global threat of climate change. “Climate change is remaking our coast, and so what does that mean for protecting the places we love, protecting public access, and protecting our national wildlife refuges and national seashores?” Weaver said. “The need for those protections is even greater as our population continues to grow. These are issues we are all going to need to grapple with.” Or they might be advocating for clean energy like Gudrun Thompson, who started her career as a gardener before making the transition to law. “I liked that work, but I started feeling like I was seeing a lot of unsustainable development, more forest and farmland being gobbled up by big, suburban developments,” she said. “I was feeling like I wasn’t helping to address the root causes of some of our really serious environmental problems, like climate change.” Now Thompson focuses on projects like energy

DREAM TEAM: TAY L O R , THOMPSON, A N D W E AV E R HANDLE KEY CASES AND ISSUES FOR SOUTHERN E N V I R O N M E N TA L L AW C E N T E R , PROTECTING T H E A I R , WAT E R , AND HEALTH OF THE REGION'S MOST BELOVED LANDSCAPES.

sierra weaver

efficiency, natural gas pipelines, and alternative energy sources. “Our region is pretty utility friendly in a lot of ways,” Thompson said. “There are really powerful interests that are opposing what we’re trying to do. We have utility companies and other polluting industries that have deep pockets and a lot of political power.” The challenge is to decide which issues need the most attention. “We can’t take on every worthy project or case that we would like,” Thompson said. “Even though we’ve got a big organization with a really great legal team, we don’t have unlimited resources. We have to make hard choices about the kinds of cases we’re going to take on.” But environmental protection is not just a job for lawyers. “We’re in the courts and legislatures,” Taylor said. “We’re working with agencies. That is our approach. But everyday citizens can be making decisions that are helping to protect the environment for everybody. We all need somewhere to live. There’s not a plan B for us if we don’t protect what we have here.”

Adventure Sports

Thomas Sheaffer has come full circle, working at the very place he learned how to snowboard as a teenager. At Wisp Resort in Maryland, his job differs depending on the season. As safety coordinator, he ensures the staff has the proper training and personal protection equipment. In the warmer months, he oversees the bike center where the resort provides rentals and intro to mountain bike classes. And in

the winter, he heads up the ski tuning shop, making sure guests are prepared for the slopes. “When you work in the outdoor recreation industry, you're wearing a lot of different hats,” Sheaffer said. “It’s rare that you’re wearing one hat and you’re doing one thing year-round. That’s challenging to get pulled in different directions but it’s also one of the things that attracts the full timers and lifers. It makes it fun because you’re able to do different things seasonally.” gudrun Sheaffer got his start in the outdoor thompson industry leading trips for the Army’s Morale, Welfare and Recreation Division in Germany. When he returned to the United States, he wanted to get an undergraduate degree in something he could build a lifestyle around. Sheaffer was naturally drawn to the Adventure Sports Management program at Garrett College and Frostburg State University. The classes were a combination of theorybased and skills classes. They covered a variety of topics, including bike mechanics, backcountry living skills, entrepreneurship, and risk management. “It’s not just how thomas do I keep people safe sheaffer and minimize risk with inherently dangerous sports like rafting, climbing, mountain biking,” Sheaffer said. “But also, how do I manage the risk of my business, liability, barriers.” Then students put their learned skills to the test with expedition planning. “Experiential learning and education is a big piece of it,” Sheaffer said. “We have an immersion semester where we actually planned trips and traveled around along the Eastern seaboard.” All of the things that he gravitated towards as a kid, snowboarding and mountain biking, were enhanced by the leadership and management skills he learned later in life. Now Sheaffer gets to share his passion with beginners and other instructors, helping to inspire new adventure seekers.

Riverkeeper

For most of his career, Fred Tutman traveled the world as a television and radio journalist. “There became a point where I felt my social conscience got the better of me,” he said. “We got to look and see a lot of things going on around us, but through the lens of a journalist, we really couldn’t be advocates or activists.” In 2004, Tutman founded the Patuxent

SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

I am KIMBALL PAYNE. I’ve been fishing up and down the James River since I was a boy, and I witnessed the decline in water quality firsthand. But as a member of the James River Association, I’ve been able to help the organization lower urban and wastewater pollution to the lowest levels in decades. There’s still work to be done—and I’m glad to be part of the comeback story. I AM A JAMES CHANGER.

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Riverkeeper to help restore the river in his community. “In some respects, we embody the hopes and aspirations for a whole community of people around a particular body of water,” he said. “Those are the people who really pay attention to what we’re doing anyways, the people who already care about that water. Other people care in a general way, but they’re not reading our newsletters, they’re not engaged, and they’re not volunteering with the organization.” Tutman is part of a network of waterkeepers around the world fighting to protect the water we drink, fish, and swim every day. They employ any number of tactics, from monitoring the water quality and raising awareness to filing litigation to clean up or prevent contaminants from entering the waterway. In the decade and a half that he has been doing this work, Tutman said it can be hard to maintain the energy, stamina, and focus needed to keep fighting for this single body of water. “You can go and get paid to clean up a stream after somebody else screwed it up with toxins,” he said. “I’d much rather fight pollution at its source because then we won’t have to keep cleaning these places up… Are we ensuring there will always be a lot of jobs doing good or are we really working to change what’s wrong with society so maybe someday we can retire those jobs? We won’t have to have full time environmentalists because it’ll be embedded in the system.” Instead of relying on corporate funding and grants, Tutman has centered his work around communitybased donations from the people whose lives depends on the Patuxent River. “There’s a world of difference between the work that changes the world and the work that people are inclined to pay you for,” Tutman said. “Symptoms are easy. It’s easy to find a job that will help you fight symptoms. Underlying problems require

fred tutman

tony brown L E F T: T U T M A N O B S E R V E S T H E R I V E R F R O M A B O AT. P H O T O B Y D R . M A R K B U N D Y. C E N T E R : R I C H A R D S B E L AY S A S T U D E N T. P H O T O B Y H E N R Y L E Y. R I G H T: B R O W N D U R I N G T H E VA H S R A C E AT B L U E R I D G E S C H O O L T H I S PA S T S P R I N G . P H O T O C R E D I T: @ VA H S M T B .

katie richards

structural change, which is considered revolutionary. And revolutions aren’t funded.”

Education

When Tony Brown was asked to build up the outdoor program at Blue Ridge School in 1998, it was just an afternoon activity. Now, the program is an integral part of the school. “Money doesn't make a program,” Brown said. “People, time, and the administration supporting it do. I had to figure out what to spend the money on and what battles do I want to fight. In the last 20 years, we’ve seen more and more students kind of run away from traditional sports. It becomes more of a natural fit and you don’t have to sell it quite so hard.” Each trimester, the all-boys boarding school offers outdoor electives just like they would computer science, music, or art. Students can enroll in classes like outdoor living skills, wilderness first aid, or outdoor service learning. In the afternoon, students participate in any number of activities, such as the climbing tower, trail maintenance, paddling, and caving. Over 15 miles of trails on campus are open for hiking and mountain biking. “We have so many things going on that it’s a little difficult to manage,” Brown said. “The trail system is huge now. On certain days, it’s crowded.

You have a mountain bike team, an outdoorsman group on a run, an outdoor program doing something, and a cross country team on a run.” Working at a residential school, Brown is able to interact with the students in all aspects of their lives, from seeing them in class and on campus to coaching them on the mountain biking team. “Every kid who graduates does something in the woods,” he said. “When kids are graduating, I can say almost 99 percent of the time, that kid did this trip or that kid was on this team. That took a lot of work to get to that point.” At The Asheville School, Katie Richards is facing a similar situation. Although the outdoor program has already been established, the new director of mountaineering is working to make the activities more accessible to a wide range of students. “Our modern sense of mountaineering is big, steep snow or ice on big mountains,” Richards said. ”The older understanding of mountaineering is more an ability to appreciate, be safe, and enjoy the outdoors and to share that with other people. That’s the definition that we’re working off of. There is certainly opportunity to take trips that have involved those more serious expedition type experiences. But I think the main goal of mountaineering is to prepare

students to be able to make their own way in the world, feel confident, be kind, and take risks that are appropriate and thoughtful. I think it is really healthy for high schoolers who may be experimenting with risk in other ways to be able to think about what they’re doing, why they’re doing it, what the outcomes may be, and how they can mitigate undesirable outcomes.” Richards brings all of her knowledge from her recreation management program at Appalachian State University, her time as a Girl Scouts Ranger in Utah, and her experience building an outdoor program for University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, to working outside with high schoolers who are still trying to figure out who they are. “High school is just a hard time for everybody,” she said. “Seeing authenticity and some vulnerability coming out of people who are going through a hard time in their lives is the best reward I could ever have. Being in a place where you’re dependent on others, and where you feel awe and inspiration, all of that stuff naturally goes away. I don’t think you can say that about a lot of environments. You can’t go to the mall and find that everybody’s being themselves all of a sudden.” Plus, she gets to spend her summer climbing, biking, and skiing. “It’s not just a vacation, it’s professional development,” Richards said. “I am getting to be better for my students by doing what I naturally want to do anyway, which I think is the pinnacle of everything. It’s so great to work in a field that brings you joy, helps you understand humans and yourself better, and challenges you. All of those things are really important to me.”

SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

THE BATTLE FOR SHENANDOAH MOUNTAIN I S T H E R E R E A L LY E N O U G H R O O M I N T H E W O O D S FOR EVERYONE? A DISPATCH FROM DEEP IN THE WEEDS OF A GENERATION-LONG EFFORT TO PROTECT SHENANDOAH MOUNTAIN.

BY ANDREW JENNER

M O U N TA I N B I K E R S A N D W I L D E R N E S S A D O V C AT E S C A M E T O G E T H E R TO PROTECT 115,000 ACRES OF S H E N A N D O A H M O U N TA I N .

n the summer of 2002, Lynn Cameron stepped nervously into Shenandoah Bicycle Company in downtown Harrisonburg. Involved in wilderness advocacy in Virginia since the late ’80s, Cameron had an ambitious plan in mind: having more land designated as wilderness on Shenandoah Mountain. The 70-mile ridge in the George Washington National Forest (GWNF) forms the western skyline of much of the Shenandoah Valley; among its many treasures is the 29,000-acre Little River Roadless Area, the largest roadless stretch of public land east of the Mississippi. Thomas Jenkins, the owner of the bike shop, also loved Shenandoah Mountain and had been biking in the GWNF ever since a love-at-first-sight ride in 1989. Some years before Cameron’s visit, the Forest Service had bulldozed some singletrack on the mountain to create a fire line. Jenkins realized that the forest can’t protect itself, and helped turn him into a more outspoken advocate for preservation. At the same time, federal law prohibits biking in wilderness areas, making the topic a wedge issue between hikers and bikers. And so, Cameron wasn’t sure how Jenkins would respond. Could the two sides, she asked, find common cause in the effort to keep Shenandoah Mountain wild? Their conversation that day led to the formation of a coalition of bikers and wilderness advocates that began meeting regularly. By 2004, the group agreed on a plan known as the Shenandoah Mountain Proposal, and formed a new organization called Friends of Shenandoah Mountain to champion it. The proposal called for the creation of a 115,000acre Shenandoah Mountain National Scenic Area (NSA), with several new wilderness areas embedded in it. The bikers agreed to support wilderness designations that would keep them off two major trails they previously rode. The wilderness people agreed to support a boundary adjustment to an existing wilderness area that newly opened several miles of the Shenandoah Mountain Trail to bikes, and kept their wilderness “ask” in the Little River Roadless Area to just 12,600 of its 29,000 acres. “Compromise is hard,” says Cameron. “I remember how hard it was to make that decision.” Still, the plan represented major progress, on paper at least, by permanently protecting a huge swath of Shenandoah Mountain from development. It included new wilderness on some of its most remote bits, and would accommodate biking throughout the rest of the NSA, a designation with much more flexibility than allowed by the federal Wilderness Act. “Each side had a lot to give and a lot to lose, but they were willing to do that,” recalls Jenkins. “That’s the beauty of this agreement. It’s all just to protect Shenandoah Mountain.” Jenkins remains troubled by the entire premise of a wilderness area and its blanket ban of biking. “But I can’t let that cloud my judgment about what I think is best for this area,” he says. After finally signing the Shenandoah Mountain Proposal one day at the public library in Harrisonburg, the entire group went across the street for a round of celebratory drinks. Still, they knew their work was far from done. Creating an

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NSA requires federal legislation, with many tricky boxes to check along the way – especially given that the Shenandoah Mountain NSA would be the largest permanently protected piece of national forest land east of the Mississippi. And while much has happened in the decade and a half since, Congressional approval still looks to be years away.

As a result of the group’s work, Friends of Shenandoah Mountain whittled its proposed NSA from 115,000 acres down to 90,000 acres. On the roughly 25,000 acres carved out from the original proposal, the preservation faction supports increased timber sales, burning and other management that serves the interests of other stakeholders.

n 2007, the Forest Service began revising the GWNF management plan, giving Friends of Shenandoah Mountain an opportunity to have their proposal formally written into it – another key step toward realizing their goals. The plan revision, however, became an arduous process. In 2010, unhappy with the options they’d been presented so far, a group of forest users far more diverse than Friends of Shenandoah Mountain began meeting amongst themselves, searching for common ground and driven by a conviction that the 1.1 million-acre GWNF was big enough for all of them. What emerged became known as the GWNF Stakeholder Collaborative, including bikers and hikers who represented a “preservation” faction, plus “active management” advocates like hunters, fishermen and the timber industry “That’s unusual. We kind of threw everything into the pot,” says Mark Miller, executive director of the Virginia Wilderness Society. “[We said], ‘instead of arguing, let’s create a win-win where everybody gets some of what they want.’” While the preservationists worry about things like fracking on Shenandoah Mountain, active management advocates have long been concerned

that there’s too little human intervention on the GWNF. “There’s a lot of wildlife species that are in decline, some in significant decline, that require early successional forest habitat,” says Al Bourgeois, a biologist recently retired after 29 years with the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries. Maintaining wildlife clearings are one way of accomplishing that. Timber sales are another, and align precisely with the goals of the logging industry, another group represented on the GWNF Stakeholder Collaborative. While the group remained committed to the general concept that the forest was big enough for all of them, hashing out the details was tricky at times. Where, exactly, on Shenandoah Mountain could the wilderness folks stomach timber sales? And where would the timber industry support new wilderness areas from which it would be permanently excluded? At some points, Cameron says, it felt as if the stakeholders’ differing priorities were too great to & kets they ticslowly, bridge. Get But at inched toward agreement. w o n r te regis “We insisted that we wanted to listen to each com efest.

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other,” she says. A field trip to Mud Pond near the northern edge of the proposed NSA stands out in her memory. At one specific spot in the road, the preservationists stopped to admire a looming stretch of mature forest; on the other side was a stretch of early successional habitat that the active managers desperately want more of. “It was a moment where we realized we can both be happy,” Cameron recalls. As a result of the group’s work, Friends of Shenandoah Mountain whittled its proposed NSA from 115,000 acres down to 90,000 acres. On the roughly 25,000 acres carved out from the original proposal, the preservation faction supports increased timber sales, burning, and other management that serves the interests of other stakeholders. In the end, with the support of the entire stakeholder group, that amended version of the Shenandoah Mountain Proposal was included in the GWNF management plan that was finalized in 2014 (albeit with a few differences, including reduced wilderness acreage).

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hile having more actively managed forest land around the proposed NSA was key to the entire stakeholder group’s support of preserving the rest of it, actually planning and overseeing that work falls to the Forest Service. Now, thanks to a number of converging factors, some stakeholders worry that the large-scale active management projects they’d envisioned around the NSA might not happen – potentially jeopardizing their entire grand bargain. “As our capacity and priorities change over time, [GWNF] leadership must continually revise our program of work to equitably focus resources across the combined George Washington and Jefferson National Forest land areas,” wrote North River District Ranger Mary Yonce, in an email. “This reflects the Forest Service’s need to respond to increasing public demand for recreation, increasing need for vegetation management, aging infrastructure, and decreasing capacity across the forest. This does not diminish the importance of achieving Forest Plan objectives in the vicinity of the proposed Shenandoah Mountain NSA, nor the importance of the Stakeholders’ strong advocacy for healthy public lands.” Bourgeois, one of the active management proponents in the stakeholder group, says it’s a “tough question” as to whether the whole group would continue to support the Shenandoah Mountain NSA. “We’re continuing to work with [the Forest Service] to see how we can get active management done,” he says. “I do not want to paint the Forest

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

Service here as the bad guy because they’re not … There’s things beyond their control that are keeping them from [doing more].” One is money. In the current fiscal year, the George Washington and Jefferson National Forest (the two forests were administratively combined in the ‘90s) has a budget of $21.8 million, a 29 percent decrease from a decade earlier. Another is neartotal turnover among leadership since stakeholders began working alongside the GWNF during its management plan revision. “We’ve had a vision for how we thought things should move forward,” says Miller. “Where we missed the boat is when agency staff turnover occurred, we didn’t do a really good job of articulating the vision.” In late June, members of the GWNF Stakeholder Collaborative – which is being facilitated by The Nature Conservancy – met with the Forest Service to discuss their concerns about the lack of management work being planned for Shenandoah Mountain. According to Miller, it was a productive meeting. “We talked about priorities for the Forest Service and how we as a group might be able to assist the agency in meeting the goals of the forest plan,” he says. “It was an open frank discussion, [and] we agreed to meet again in a few months.” And Bourgeois says he remains committed to seeing the plan move forward in a way that everyone can live with. “It’s not easily solved, but that’s why we’re working together on it,” he says.

n the meantime, Cameron continues working on securing the support of several local governments in Virginia directly affected by the proposed NSA. It’s a step that’s generally another prerequisite for eventual Congressional action. On June 26, the Augusta County Board of Supervisors passed a resolution of support for the Shenandoah Mountain NSA, and Cameron expects similar votes before long in neighboring counties. It’s just one of the current obstacles to a plan that she and many others have been actively pursuing for coming up on two decades. Over that time, there’ve been major breakthroughs, hard choices and setbacks, and much is still up in the air. Who knows what the future holds; they won’t hazard a guess as to when their dream might become reality. “It’s a crazy long process,” says Jenkins. “It’s going to be an incredible feat if it can get all the way to the act of signing on the dotted line with everyone being satisfied.” Thrilled is probably too high of a bar, he says, when it comes to this many different groups and their different visions of an ideal outcome. Compromise has been and surely will continue to be key. But one thing that’s for sure at this point, Cameron says, is that they wouldn’t have even gotten this far without everybody giving a little in search of a greater common good. “Over time, I was able to see the point of view of others more clearly, and recognize the value of working together,” Cameron says. “Now that I’ve been through 15 years of advocating for [the Shenandoah Mountain NSA], I realize how helpful those compromises are.”

Tangled Roots

GINSENG POACHING IN APPALACHIA BY WILLIAM FUNK

IT USED TO BE THAT THE HARVESTING OF WILD GINSENG WAS

an honorable occupation. Or at least that was the verdict among the people who lived for centuries off the land in the rough-cut Appalachian Mountains of Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee. And in fact, the “sustainable harvest” of ginseng root is still very much a part of the historic culture here, now melding uncomfortably with the new online foreign markets, based mainly in Asia, whose incessant demand for traditional medicines is grounded in the same pseudoscience wiping out Africa’s rhinos and elephants. Right here, just outside our windows, our commonly-held natural resources are being carefully plundered by people with no more regard for natural cohesion or historical perspective than for anything else aside from immediate profit. And that’s where ginseng comes in. Ginseng poaching is not quite as clearly a criminal scam as wildlife trafficking, and there are many legit ginseng dealers in the Blue Ridge region whose products are sold both at home and abroad. What exactly is wild ginseng’s supposed pharmacological value? What is spinning this ageold herbal supplement into ochre gold in the global black market? Is ginseng, like bear gall and pangolin scales, merely an elaborate scam rooted in disproven superstition? Or is there something more to it? American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius) is native to deciduous forests of the United States from the Midwest to Maine, primarily in the Appalachian and Ozark regions. It is also grown on ginseng farms. It has long been used for medicine, originally harvested by many different Native American tribes and used in Asian medicinal products. According to a 2017 study published by the National Institutes of Health, dried and processed ginseng root avails a number of the traumas inherent in our hyperactive present, including depression and anxiety, as well as in controlling hormones, producing beneficial effects on the heart and brain, and alleviating erectile dysfunction. Prevention and treatment of chronic inflammatory diseases such as diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, and allergic asthma can also be addressed by ginseng treatment. However, the mechanism underlying the effects of ginseng on these stress-related diseases has not been completely established. It appears that this ancient herbal remedy, utilized by Native Americans for millennia and then, as with so much else, absorbed into colonial American culture over several centuries, is something with historical bona fides that speak to its strength; if it

didn’t work at all, and there were no cultural reasons for its continuance, why go through the labor and expense of making it available for either legal purchase or through the black market? Ginseng root is exported in larger volumes than any other native plant listed by CITES (Convention on International Trade in Threatened and Endangered Species) plant species. The majority of American ginseng harvested is exported to China. This isn’t a recent phenomenon: In the United States, the harvest of wild American ginseng for international trade began in the mid-1700s. Today, the harvest continues to have strong economic and cultural importance to many communities in the United States and to American Indian tribes. But getting this tangled knobby root from the forest to the market makes ginseng one of the most profitable and complex poaching problems in Appalachia. And like all other aspects of the poaching wars, this one can be murderous. James Willett is a Special Agent with the U.S. Forest Service based in Marion, Virginia, with jurisdiction over both the Jefferson and George Washington National Forests. A graduate of Randolph-Macon, Willett claims that he’s “done everything but deliver a baby” while on duty, having assisted with cuts, fractures, gunshot wounds and car wrecks. He strapped on a bulletproof vest casually, but

WILD GINSENG ROOT CAN FETCH THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS PER POUND.

with an air of deliberate profession honed by decades of public service. On his belt, along with handcuffs, a taser, a radio and body camera, was a .40 caliber Glock semiautomatic handgun, weapon of choice for most police departments (and gangsters) these days. In the backseat of his looming SUV (no official decals, emergency lights hidden) were a cooler (everyone’s gotta have lunch, and these patrols can literally take days), a jump bag with spare ammo and a tourniquet for field triage, and also a folding chair. In a secured compartment in back was a 5.56 caliber AR-15, along with an evidence collection kit, EMS equipment, a fire investigation unit and a 12-gauge Remington 870 loaded with buckshot and slugs. Willet claims to have pulled a gun on suspects a lot over the years, but he’s never had to fire a shot. He’s known officers who weren’t so lucky. “During tough times, individuals look for ways to make ends meet. Ginseng just happens to be one method to earn money,” explains Willett. And this pirating of a public resource is often done more through desperation than through any overarching criminal plot. When interviewing suspects who have poached ginseng, Willett has been told by poachers C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 6 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

THE GOODS

FAVORITE GEAR

BEST IN BIKE GEAR ANDY BECKMAN’S MUST-HAVES FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING BY IAN DZILENSKI

“I GREW UP RIDING BIKES UP AND

down the street as every kid does,” racer Andy Beckman said. “It all progressed from building little ramps in the driveway and just having fun with friends.” The enjoyment of riding continued through childhood and far beyond. In middle school, Beckman started racing, mostly mountain bikes but some road here and there, and continued to race through college. Nowadays, Andy calls the rolling hills of Western North Carolina home, citing his love of biking as one of the main motivators in deciding where to live. “There's a great selection of trails around here and this is an amazing community for mountain biking.” From the countless trails throughout Pisgah National Forest to lesserknown spots in the Asheville area and his local park here in Boone, Beckman still rides with excitement that began nearly three decades ago. With that much time spent on the trail, Beckman has picked up a tip or two when it comes to the best gear to have and why. From helmets to hydration to tools on the go, the gear you bring on your rides plays a part in their success. Here are Andy’s go-to pieces of gear for every ride:

1. Use your head…wear a helmet. The importance of protecting your head while biking cannot be stressed enough. Look into different styles and brands and try some on at your local shop. A 64

biking came in the early 2000s with the automatic dropper seatposts. With the simple push of a lever, you can adjust the height of your seat to best suit that moment's riding. By allowing you to sit high and pedal hard on climbs to dropping the seat, and thus lowering your center of gravity for downhills, dropper posts allow you to be an efficient rider on different terrain while saving you time in the process. There are lots of options to choose from on the market, but Beckman is steadfast and happy with his Contact Switch Dropper Seatposts made by Giant Bicycles. Giant Contact Switch Dropper - $168

helmet that fits the right way, and comfortably, is the key to maximizing this crucial safety feature. For cruising around the hills of Western North Carolina, Beckman turns to the stylish but highly protective Chronicle MIPS helmet. Chronicle MIPS helmet $100

2. Hydrate or diedrate! Average adults should consume anywhere from 2.7 to 3.7 liters of water per day, and even more when participating in physical activity like mountain biking. Being properly hydrated starts before your ride even begins, but to quench your thirst as you go, Beckman recommends the M.U.L.E. 100oz pack by Camelbak. Even at full capacity, this pack is comfortable and rugged, all while providing plenty of liquids for the long rides ahead. Camelbak M.U.L.E. 100oz Hydration Pack - $110

3. Be prepared to make fixes on the go. We’ve all heard it before: “Hope for the best, but plan for the worst." Things go wrong, especially when it’s least expected, which is why Beckman urges all riders to carry a quality multi-tool. Something like the Crankbrothers M19, which comes stacked with a chain tool, hex wrenches, screwdrivers, a spoke wrench and more, is ideal for its variety of tools but also for its compact size and light weight. Crankbrothers M19 Multitool - $33.99

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

6. No more bumps and bruises.

4. Stay grounded. Grounded to those pedals that is! When it comes to riding in comfort, one of the most important pieces of gear you can have is a good pair of shoes. Known for their durability and sticky grip, the Five Ten Freerider Pro shoes are some of the best in the game. This lightweight, synthetic shoe offers top of the line protection and weather-resistant materials to maximize its capabilities as a first-rate riding shoe. Five Ten Freerider Pro - $150

5. Come ready for the ups and downS. One of the most important innovations in mountain

Mountain biking is an inherently dangerous sport and inevitably ends with a crash here or there. For general protection, Beckman suggests a solid pair of gloves, which helps with both deflecting debris and limbs as you ride while also protecting your whole hand in case of falls, and a quality set of knee pads that serve that same purpose. Both of these items depend on personal preference as they are sold in a wide variety of styles, so head to your local shops to try some out. Whether he’s running laps in Pisgah National Forest or taking his sons to the local downhill park, Beckman suits up in his Fox Launch Enduro Knee Pads and a pair of Pro-Lite Gloves. Fox Launch Enduro Knee Pads - $59.95 Pro-Lite Gloves - $29.95

MORE GEAR Gregory Quadro Pro, $199 Built using a bombproof polycarbonate shell, the carryon 22” Quadro Pro combines absolute gear protection with Gregory’s expert-level design. An ActiveShield compartment separates dirty gear from clean clothes in a fully removable vapor- and odor-resistant compartment. Six Moon Designs Flight 30 Pack, $190 Ultra lightweight and minimalist, the Flight 30 is even slimmer and more streamlined; it shed 4 ounces in its newest version. For long distance hikers, the Flight 30 is small and compact, but can still carry enough to travel several days between resupply. Ridge Solstice Hoodie, $80 Lightweight? Sun protection? This simple styled hoodie gives you both. With a natural UPF of 25+ and a longer hem in the back for more coverage, the Solstice Hoodie is the perfect layer for long days spent in the sun. Hydro Flask National Park Foundation Collection Wide Mouth 32 oz Water Bottle, $49 Durable yet easy to carry, the National Park Foundation Collection features double wall insulation to keep beverages ice cold for 24 hours or piping hot for up to 12. Proceeds benefit the National Park Foundation. Kitsbow Cyclone Tee, $79 This high-performance shirt is built for biking, but our weartester ended up wearing it off the bike just as often. Polartec side panels provide active cooling, and the lightweight breathable fabric keeps you cool, dry, and comfortable.

C O N T I N U E D F R O M E PA G E 6 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

that ginseng is an easy way to come up with money when other ways have failed. “There’s almost nothing in the forests of the Blue Ridge that doesn’t have a price tag nowadays,” Willett said as we drove. “The question is who gets to it first.” We were headed to Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. Our journey would take us along the Smyth and Grayson County line, weaving on and off of Highway 16 and onto gravel or dirt roads, occasionally crossing private lands in this hodgepodge of federal and privately held “inholdings.” Part of his professional challenge, Willett told me that morning, was addressing the ongoing local resentment in some areas of his patrol range against public lands. One of the problems with dealing with ginseng poaching is the irregularity of the federal and state laws that vary widely by jurisdiction. In Virginia, there are many legal distributors of wild ginseng, but how do these businesses know where their product comes from? Was it legally grown on private land? Was it legally or illegally harvested on public lands? Legal harvest in Virginia begins on September 1 and runs through December 31, and the following criteria apply: no plants younger than five years of age and no plants with fewer than three prongs can be harvested. Furthermore, and perhaps most interestingly, “A person who harvests wild ginseng must plant the seeds of the harvested plant at the harvest site at the time of harvest.” Harvesting ginseng without a permit is a violation of both state and federal law. Ginseng poaching also violates international law; it is listed in the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, meaning it can’t legally be harvested from public lands in the U.S. without a permit from federal agencies. Agent Willett has served a total of 18 years in natural resources law enforcement. In this rugged terrain, “the patrols get hard,” he said. Over 40 pounds of body armor, the rancorous heat of summer, and the ever-shifting cabals of traffickers make it especially challenging. “You have to know the sellers,” Willett says. We’re less than a mile from the North Carolina and Tennessee borders, both visible from the Whitetop summit (5,520 feet), the highest drivable place in Virginia. Willett tells me that Carolina ginseng poachers are a consistent problem, but that “nothing is ever typical.” Patrols like the one I was on are “very little” of what his job currently demands, he says. “I spend most of my time these days in desk work, court appearances, interviews, and ‘windshield time' driving to distant legal necessities.” As is the case most everywhere else, illegal drugs are playing a serious role in the management of our public lands here in the Blue Ridge. Agent Willett says that, “drugs are everywhere” within his jurisdiction, and this isn’t all good ol’ boys trying to mimic granddaddy’s moonshine side trade with therapeutic marijuana. We’re talking “meth, opioids, heroin, used needles at campgrounds, gangs, bikers.” At each turnoff into a more rugged road. Agent

Willett stops to examine the dirt at the junction, scanning it for signs of a fresh entrance into heavily wooded terrain that only a few would legitimately seek. He advised me that it was squirrel season, and to keep my ears attuned for shotgun blasts. After a brief and uneventful pause at each crossroads, we proceeded. While there are many legal ginseng distributors in our area—the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services supplied me with a list of 90, few of which I called over several months would pick up the phone, much less grant an interview— the nebulous association between what’s legal and what’s not, where ginseng has been gathered and where it might have been, remains a fundamental problem within the Blue Ridge region’s contribution to this rocketing environmental issue. Your herbal ginseng, its health effects nebulous but aspirational, may or may not have been poached from public lands, and may or may not have been transited through criminal networks. I did talk with one dealer—“Roger” (he wouldn’t provide a surname). He’s in charge of sales at American Ginseng, an online market offering both fresh and dry wild ginseng roots, as well as powder and leaves. He says his business is family-owned, and that he’s the third generation of ginseng harvesters, or “diggers” as he refers to them, buying only wild ginseng from licensed harvesters in Virginia, West Virginia and North Carolina. Roger says that the ginseng market is very competitive among diggers,

W I L L E T T D I S P L AY S P O A C H E D G I N S E N G C O N F I S C AT E D B Y L AW E N F O R C E M E N T.

processors like himself, and sellers and exporters. He claims that his company sells only wild ginseng so as to assure buyers that pesticides and herbicides won’t impair the finished product. American Ginseng even distributes over 100,000 ginseng seeds annually to diggers looking to maintain their wild sources. “I’m passionate about selling ginseng,” he told me, “as well as buying it from licensed diggers and preserving it for future generations.” Roger listed the immunological and memory benefits of wild ginseng root, as well as its applicability in treating the aftereffects of chemotherapy, such as fatigue and nausea. Agent Willett and I didn’t round up any poachers the morning I rode with him, but the message was clear: folks are viewing our public lands as personal reservoirs of profit. Typical of our entangled relations with the natural world, the harvest and consumption of wild ginseng has many opposing angles. There’s a legitimate desire, rooted in the deepest echoes of American history, for this appealingly natural solution to a host of infirmities. The issue is how to conduct this healing harvest in a responsible manner, one that will allow succeeding generations to enjoy the restorative remedies of centuries past through a plant that holds potential hope for human health, if we can just learn to give it room to grow.

SEPTEMBER 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

TRAIL MIX

EMERGING REGIONAL ACTS

ON THE RISE

FOUR SOUTHERN ARTISTS YOU NEED TO HEAR BY JEDD FERRIS

Kelsey Waldon LISTEN IF YOU LIKE: Loretta Lynn, Nikki

Lane

THE SOUND: Originally from the small

community of Monkey’s Eyebrow, Ky., Waldon possesess a classic country voice and wry wit that helped her earn a loyal following when she moved to Nashville and started diligently working the local singer-songwriter circuit. That effort continues to pay off, as earlier this year she became the first new artist signed to John Prine’s Oh Boy Records in 15 years. On October 4, Waldon will release her first album for the label, White Noise/White Lines, a record that continues her approach of taking traditional twang forward with gritty originality. As Prine recently put it: “Her music continues an important arc of traditional folk and country music.” KEY TRACK: “Anyhow,” which leads off

Waldon’s new album, is a honky-tonk throwback with a resilient message about staying true to yourself. CATCH HER: September 7 at Hopscotch

Festival in Raleigh, N.C., and October 6 at Mountain Stage in Charleston, W.Va. 66

If you’re searching for new tunes this fall, check out the sounds of these four emerging regional acts.

Chatham Rabbits

Trigger Hippy

LISTEN IF YOU LIKE: Mandolin Orange, Gillian

LISTEN IF YOU LIKE: Little Feat, Blackberry

Welch

Smoke

THE SOUND: A new act to emerge from

THE SOUND: Reborn after a five-year layoff,

the fertile roots scene in the North Carolina Triangle, Chatham Rabbits is the husband-and-wife duo of Austin and Sarah McCombie, who captivate with intimate close-harmony singing in the vein of recent predecessors Mandolin Orange. The couple favors rustic, minimalist acoustic arrangements—mainly clawhammer-style banjo and guitar— that showcase old-time reverence with compelling original songwriting. The group has been touring rigorously around the Southeast in support of the debut album All I Want from You, which was produced by Jerry Brown (Doc Watson) and features an appearance by Mandolin Orange’s Andrew Marlin. KEY TRACK: “Chattanooga” from the band’s

debut has a gentle mountain melody but the song’s protagonist is on the run from a troubled past. CATCH THEM: September 7 at the Lincoln

Theatre in Marion, Va., September 20 at Library Amphitheater in Brevard. N.C., September 21 at Bristol Rhythm and Roots Reunion in Bristol, Tenn., October 24 at Pale Fire Brewing in Harrisonburg, Va., and October 26 at Isis Music Hall in Asheville, N.C.

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | SEPTEMBER 2019

Trigger Hippy is a side-project collective led by drummer Steve Gorman, a founding member of the Black Crowes, and bassist Nick Govrick. The group released a self-titled album in 2014 when members included Joan Osborne and Jackie Greene, but this fall Gorman and Govrick are returning in a reconfigured quartet that includes guitarist Ed Jurdi and singer Amber Woodhouse. Accompanying the reboot is the sophomore effort Full Circle and Then Some (released October 4), a sturdy, soulful set of Southern-hued roots rock that features appearances by Willie Nelson’s harmonica ace Mickey Raphael and Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit’s guitar shredder Sadler Vaden. Quick aside: If you’re into behind-the-scenes band dirt, Gorman is also publishing an account of his time in the Black Crowes.

Ian Noe LISTEN IF YOU LIKE: John Prine, The

Byrds

THE SOUND: Back in the spring, this

rising singer-songwriter released a stunning debut album, Between the Country, a 10-track set of vivid hardluck story songs, inspired by struggling characters that surrounded him growing up in rural eastern Kentucky. Produced by roots studio ace Dave Cobb, the record chronicles dark realities with literary vision, as Noe uses a powerfully simple folk delivery reminiscent of early John Prine while also incorporating some of the vintage electric jangle of the Byrds.

KEY TRACK: “Strung Out on the Pain” is

KEY TRACK: The stark yet soulful “Junk

CATCH THEM: The band just finished

CATCH HIM: October 5 at Songbyrd in

a country road song about leaving love behind that’s highlighted by wide-open pedal steel lines. getting its live chops back in shape with a Nashville residency this summer, and more dates supporting the new album are on the way.

Town” channels Prine’s classic “Sam Stone,” a similarly mournful look at the pitfalls of addiction. Washington, D.C., October 8 at the Neighborhood Theatre in Charlotte, N.C., and October 25 at the Earl in Atlanta, Ga.

5% ALC/VOL

100 CALORIES

2g CARBS

There are also less strenuous trails for the uninitiated. And lots of shops and galleries for people who like to walk around indoors. 800.852.9506 ExploreBoone.com