Blue Ridge Outdoors September 2020 by Summit Publishing

SEPTEMBER 2020

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BIKEPACKING

THE TRANSVIRGINIA ROUTE

The Woman Who Saved a Forest + A.T. T H R U - H I K E R S T H WA RT E D + FA L L M U S I C P R E V I E W

FA M I LY

MOUNTAIN BIKING

C YCLING TIP S FOR BEGINNER S

WANDER.. WANDER U.S. NATIONAL WHITEWATER CENTER

Charlotte. A lot of pockets of this city are simply begging to be explored. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll quickly find that those who wander are never lost in this humming metropolis surrounded by natural beauty that boasts lush landscapes, natural havens, and even whitewater rapids. charlottesgotalot.com

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CONTENTS

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com P U B L I S H E R L E A H WO O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Great American Outdoors Act signed into law and a regional triathlon takes place in the time of COVID-19.

E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N S E N I O R E D I TO R W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com

09 | EXPLORE

A writer travels to Alabama to visit the Ghost Towns of Old Cahawba, an archaeological park preserving over 500 years of mysterious ruins.

T R AV E L E D I TO R E L L E N K A N Z I N G E R ellen@blueridgeoutdoors.com

KIM DINAN

C O N T R I B U TO R S

44 | THE GOODS

NICK CARTER BETTINA FREESE J E S S DA D D I O

46 | PERSPECTIVE

You can learn more about mountains and forests through the simple life of the Junkman. Fresh albums coming this fall from Delta Spirit, Steep Canyon Rangers, and Lydia Loveless.

M A R T H A E VA N S

martha@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E H A N N A H C O O P E R hcooper@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E TAY LO R L E A L taylor@blueridgeoutdoors.com

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R M E L I S S A G E S S L E R melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com

D I G I TA L M E D I A O N L I N E D I R E C TO R C R A I G S N O D G R A S S webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com

S H A N N O N M C G OWA N

26 | BIKEPACKING THE TRANSVIRGINIA TRAIL

C I R C U L AT I O N I N Q U I R I E S circulation@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Follow the journey of an epic eight-day adventure across the Commonwealth.

PUBLISHING

31 | THE FOREST SHE SAVED

977 SEMINOLE TR PMB294 C H A R LOT T E S V I L L E , V I R G I N I A 2 2 9 0 1

GOT A STORY IDEA OR COMMENT? B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F S H E Q U AYA B A I L E Y

200 DISTRICT DRIVE, UNIT 8 ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA 28803

submit@blueridgeoutdoors.com

10 | BIKE BOOM

In pandemic times, biking has become more popular than ever. For those finding new passion for pedaling, we asked seasoned riders for advice on gear, safety, and top destinations. See the region’s best fall foliage on the byways and blueways of the Blue Ridge.

shannon@blueridgeoutdoors.com

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

F E AT U R E S

19 | COLORFUL GETAWAYS

D I G I TA L C O N T E N T S P E C I A L I S T

49 | TRAIL MIX

ADVERTISING & BUSINESS S E N I O R AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E

At OM Sanctuary, Shelli Stanback has preserved 54 acres just outside Asheville, restoring what is now the North Carolina city’s largest remaining urban forest.

34 | THRU-HIKERS THWARTED

In March, aspiring Appalachian Trail thru-hikers were asked to get off the trail in the name of public health, leaving many to deal with the disappointment of a lifelong dream dashed.

41 | A FAMILY'S BIKE FLEET

An avid mountain biker shares how upgrades made his kids love riding singletrack.

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

Spin your wheels with these new cycling favorites.

C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

SUMMIT

SEPTEMBER 2020

06 | QUICK HITS

A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com

D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N E R I C J. WA L L AC E MIKE BEZEMEK

IN AN EARLY MORNING SUNRISE SESSION, D A G N Y PA L M E R R I D E S D O W N U P P E R I N D I G O AT B E E C H M O U N TA I N R E S O R T ' S B I K E PA R K . P H O T O B Y C Y N T H I A V I O L A .

D E PA R T M E N T S

C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R L AU R E N WO R T H lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com

O U T D O O R N E W S E D I TO R

ON THE COVER

QUICK HITS

OUTDOOR NEWS

BY KIM DINAN

A NEW LOOK FOR C O M P E T I T O R S AT T H E A S H E V I L L E T R I AT H L O N . PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ASHEVILLE T R I AT H L O N

Great American Outdoors Act Signed Into Law

In late July the Senate voted 310 to 107 to pass the Great American Outdoors Act, ensuring national parks and public lands receive the funding they need for years to come, and President Trump signed the bill into law soon after in early August. Lauded as the biggest conservation win in a generation, the bill permanently funds the $900 million annual Land and Water Conservation Fund and establishes the National Parks and Public Lands Legacy Fund which will direct up to $9.5 billion in additional funding over the next five years to address the most pressing repairs needed in national parks and on other public lands. “Our national parks and public lands are incredible shared resources,” Anders Reynolds, Southern Environmental Law Center’s federal "Making the Great legislative director, said in a statement. “They American Outdoors provide outstanding Act law accomplishes recreational what the outdoor opportunities for tens industry has always of millions of outdoor endeavored to do – enthusiasts, supporting support thousands the economies of countless local of jobs, open up communities while also access to outdoor preserving sensitive areas for more ecosystems and people, and give habitats from overlocal communities development. It’s past time we devoted the more tools to thrive appropriate resources economically." to their upkeep.” The Land and Water Conservation Fund directs royalties from oil and gas drilling toward the conservation of public lands. “Once signed into law, this bill will dedicate nearly $1 billion per year to address a variety of needs; from neglected hiking trails and visitor infrastructure in popular national parks, to U.S. Forest Service projects that ensure clean watersheds for local communities, to the restoration of coastal marshes that protect against flood waters,” said Reynolds. Currently, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the most visited national park in the country, faces a maintenance backlog of $236 million. Shenandoah National Park faces a maintenance backlog of over $90 million. “Making the Great American Outdoors Act law accomplishes what the outdoor industry has always endeavored to do – support thousands of jobs, open up access to outdoor areas for more people, and give local communities more tools to thrive economically,” added Lise Aangeenbrug, executive director of the Outdoor Industry Association. “This achievement is all the more important in today’s environment as it will bring muchneeded hope back to communities and businesses reliant on outdoor recreation.

Competitive Triathlon in the Time of COVID-19 The pandemic has changed a lot of things, but it 6

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

couldn’t stop one group of hardcore triathletes from competing this summer. Last Sunday, just over 100 participants showed up at a park in Hendersonville, N.C., to do something that most athletes used to take for granted: toe the line at an in-person race. The Asheville Triathlon, held at a new location in nearby Hendersonville’s Patton Park, set an example of what in-person events may look like in the future during the time of COVID-19. “This coronavirus has really forced us to make some big changes in the endurance event industry,” said Daphne Kirkwood, owner of iDaph Events and race director of the Asheville Triathlon. “There just isn’t a cookie cutter way to design and produce an in-person event during a pandemic. But I’m really happy with how safely everything turned out.” Race participants wore face coverings before and after the event, had their temperatures checked, and stayed socially distant from other participants. Instead of having typical transition zones, which usually include close quarters, participants were asked to transition at their vehicles. The rebooted transition zones “went really well,” said Kirkwood. “[Racers] had plenty of room to set up their things… we also had spaces in between some cars giving additional space.” During the swim portion of the race, participants were given a wave start time based on their projected

swim time and were given a full minute before the next swimmer entered the pool. “We never had more than 25 swimmers at the pool or on the deck at a time,” said Kirkwood. “Everything was very spaced out from start to finish.” And all of those cheering fans? Forget about it. “No spectators were allowed at the pool or at the finish line,” Kirkwood said. Eighty-three percent of participants indicated they would come back and do the race again. According to one satisfied participant, “I felt safer racing…than going to the grocery store.”

Great Smoky Mountains National Park hosting hiking series focused on diversity and equality Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Great Smoky Mountains Association are hosting a series of hikes called ‘Smokies Hikes for Healing,’ which use the backdrop of the park to inspire conversations about race and racial bias. Eight hikes will be held through December. During the hikes, a facilitator will lead discussion around race and help participants learn to identify biases through a deeper level of self-awareness and reflection, WKRN reports. Space is limited to 10 participants per hike. To learn more or to apply to participate visit smokieshikesforhealing.org.

Experiencing Charlottesville and Albemarle County at its natural best is simple, no matter the season.

njoy the outdoors at an easy pace along a riverside trail, on a hike to a ridge or peak, from the seat of a bike, aﬂoat on one of our rivers, relaxing comfortably in the shade at a winery with a clear view of a sunset over the Blue Ridge Mountains… however you’d like to appreciate our spacious countryside, we can point you in the right direction. In an effort to ensure the safety of all, wearing a face covering is now mandatory in all public spaces. Local restaurants, shops and attractions have implemented comprehensive plans to ensure that your visit is both exceptionally enjoyable and appropriately responsible. Visit by car in order to maintain a comfortable social distance and maximize mobility for the duration of your trip: everything mentioned above and detailed below can be enjoyed within a 25-minute drive of downtown Charlottesville. Kayak, tube, raft, or paddleboard on the James or Rivanna Rivers. The Rivanna is calm and wide, lined with shaded rocky banks, and close to the heart of downtown. The James, broad and beautiful, is our biggest river. On your way to or from the James, stop by Scottsville’s quaint, historic downtown for a drink or a bite to eat. From the Rivanna, try the pedestrian mall in the heart of Charlottesville, an eight-block stretch of shops, restaurants, cafes and public art. It’s a great place to enjoy a sociallydistanced outdoor lunch, dinner or morning coffee. Don’t worry about bringing your own equipment to either river. Look to the Rivanna River Company at the Rivanna, and James River Runners or James River Reeling and Rafting near the James for any rentals you may need. Be sure to spend some quality time in our parks and natural areas during your visit. The highest and most iconic trails can be found in the Blue Ridge Mountains along the Blue Ridge Parkway or Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park. Try the Humpback Rocks Trail, a steep, short hike to a 360-degree view atop the rocky peak. There you’ll see as much of the

Shenandoah Valley and the mountains of Albemarle County as you would out of the windows of a private jet. The ever-popular Saunders-Monticello Trail, adjacent to Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello and Carter Mountain Orchard, is another excellent place for a hike, no matter the season. Put the Rustic Highland Trails at nearby James Monroe’s Highland high on your list for consideration as well. The USA Cycling National Team trained here in Charlottesville and Albemarle County prior to the 2015 UCI Road World Championships for a reason. Scenic and hilly, our roads make for perfect training grounds. The southern end of Skyline Drive, the road at the center of Shenandoah National Park, meets with the northern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway just west of Albemarle County, and either route is perfect for an intense bike ride. Find ﬂatter, breezier trails and roads closer to the city. The roads and trails in and around downtown Charlottesville are excellent for biking, running, hiking and walking with friends or family. The most spectacular season in our part of Virginia in terms of natural beauty has to be fall. Leaves near the peaks of the mountains begin to change in late September. Peak fall color usually arrives in mid to late October. Visit Carter Mountain Orchard, from which you can see the entirety of downtown Charlottesville below and the Blue Ridge Mountains in the west in all their fall splendor. And, of course, for the ultimate perspective on the area, ﬂoat overhead in a hot-air balloon. When it’s time to rest up after your outdoor adventures, our area boasts the full range of lodging options, from resorts and boutique hotels, to remote bed and breakfasts and everything in between.

Should you have any questions when planning your visit, give us a call, visit our website, or stop by one of our visitor centers to speak with our knowledgeable travel specialists. Plan your trip today at www.visitcharlottesville.org.

Trail BATH Magic.

A trail is a special place for outdoor lovers. It represents a new journey and the start of an adventure. If you’re lucky enough to be on a trail in Bath County, the adventure will also include plenty of unspoiled mountain beauty. That’s a Made in Bath County experience. DiscoverBath.com · 540-839-7202 · #MadeInBathVA

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

EXPLORE

HISTORY

AT O L D C A H AW B A VISITORS FIND THE RUINS OF ALABAMA'S F I R S T C A P I TA L . P H O T O BY MIKE BEZEMEK.

GHOST TOWNS OF OLD CAHAWBA AN ALABAMA ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK PRESERVES OVER 500 YEARS OF MYSTERIOUS RUINS BY MIKE BEZEMEK

ain pools on my windshield faster than the blades can wipe it away. I’m 10 miles south of Selma, driving a cracked road through dripping wilderness toward the Alabama River. Arriving at Six Mile Creek, I find a mostly empty campground. The lower riverside sites have a veneer of damp mud from recent flooding. It’s hot and steamy, so I set up my cot inside my mesh bug shelter and sweat through the night. The next morning, I drive to the Old Cahawba visitor center, then walk down Capitol Street, the eerie main road running through dense forest. Like many American cities, there are intersecting roads laid out in a grid. Block upon block, each lined by jungle instead of buildings. Today, Old Cahawba Archaeological Park preserves more than the location of Alabama’s first state capital. Hidden amid thick foliage, visitors can explore remnants from over 500 years of communities and towns. Each establishment ultimately vanished, often under mysterious circumstances. Though the park offers free use of cruiser bikes, I wander on foot, roughly chronologically. The park’s website includes detailed site history, which I use as a guide. My first stop is the old town center on a bluff above the confluence of the Cahaba and Alabama Rivers. It’s now a field of grass and oak trees draped in Spanish moss mostly used for picnicking, but a closer look reveals signs of the site’s first inhabitants. For thousands of years, the region was home to tribes of the Mississippian culture. Sometime between the 11th and 16th centuries, a Native American town was built here, possibly by people who came up the river in canoes from near Mobile Bay. Excavated pottery shards suggest huts arranged atop an earthen mound next to the riverbank. On the land side, there was a semicircular defensive wall and moat. Walking around the southwestern corner of the field, I follow portions of this moat, which today resembles a dry creek bed. The disappearance of this early village is dated to around 1540, roughly the same time that Hernando DeSoto’s expedition was traveling through the area. An encounter with Chief Tuskaloosa at an unknown fortress quickly turned violent. The conquistadors were armed with advanced weapons, like crossbows, swords, and possibly harquebus—a type of early musket. The Native Americans probably fought with spears or bows and arrows. Around 200 of the 600 Spaniards were killed or injured, while almost the entire native force of 2,500 to 3,000 was killed. Little is known about the area during the next hundred years, but by the late 1600s the region was controlled by European colonial powers. First the French, then the British, and later the Spanish. In 1795,

IF YOU GO the land was ceded to the recently opened Cahaba Federal Prison, which In addition to touring the ruins of Old Cahawba by foot or independent United States. Around eventually held 9,000 Union inmates. bike, the park offers two canoe 1815, after a series of wars and treaties, While conditions were poor, the prison ramps, which allow for a 3-mile the federal government removed the had one of the lowest death rates during paddling trip on the Cahaba and Choctaw and Creek tribes, opening the war because of the availability of Alabama Rivers. Nearby, Forever the Alabama wilderness to white fresh spring water. Many of these wells Wild is developing the Old settlement. This prompted a land and spring pipes remain today. Cahawba Prairie, with birding rush of farmer and cotton plantation When the Union won the Battle and hiking opportunities. More owners. The area became known as of Selma, in April 1865, Generals info: alabamaforeverwild.com/ the Black Belt, both for the dark rich Wilson and Forest met in Cahawba. old-cahawba-prairie soils perfect for growing cotton and for Thirteen days after John Wilkes Booth the large enslaved black population assassinated President Lincoln, around who worked the fields. 2,300 soldiers released from Cahaba Continuing my walk, I turn north and follow Vine Street, and Andersonville Prisons were aboard the steamship past info markers for antebellum stores. I soon reach one Sultana. The boat was dangerously overloaded, and of Old Cahawba’s highlights, remnants of a building called while ascending the Mississippi River, the Sultana’s the Crocheron Columns. boiler exploded, killing nearly 2,000 soldiers, the largest Alabama became a territory in 1817. The following maritime accident in American history. year, Governor William Bibb selected Cahawba as the My next stop is the Barker Slave Quarters, still capital city, due to its river location and abundant blufftop standing after the Barker mansion burned in 1935. From springs. A two-story brick building was erected in the there, I wander through what was called the Negro town center and Cahawba rapidly expanded. There were Burial Ground, and then onward past the Fambro House. stores, hotels, river ferries, two newspapers, a theater, By 1870, the population of Cahawba was down and a state-owned bank. President Monroe relocated to 431, with 302 being African American. During the the Federal Land Office to Cahawba and land prices Reconstruction Era, Cahawba was given a derogatory skyrocketed from $1 per acre to between $60 and $70. nickname by residents in Selma, “Mecca of the Radical Within a few years, vacant lots downtown cost around Republican Party,” because freed black men met in $5,000, or about $100,000 in today’s money. the damaged courthouse to organize politically. After The capital city’s unraveling began with the emancipation, some African American residents became economic devastation of the National Panic of 1819. landowners. One was Ezekel Arthur, who traveled to Yellow Fever broke out during the summers of 1821 and surrounding states to find relatives who had been sold 1822. During the latter year, heavy rains flooded the away. Returning with family members to Cahawba, he town. In 1825, the state legislature moved the capital to became a successful farmer and eventually bought the Tuscaloosa. Residents packed their belongings—and Fambro house, which was occupied by his descendants their houses—moving them brick by brick in some cases. until the late 1990s. The population dropped to only 300 residents, but On my return, I pass construction work at the site Cahawba revived during the mid-1800s as a hub for of the original state house. Site director Linda Derry plantation cotton distribution. Steam-powered paddleexplains they’re erecting a “ghost structure,” a building wheelers plied the waters below the town, and a railroad frame that outlines the dimensions of the long-gone spur was built from nearby Marion. In 1861, the Civil capitol. “We’re preserving the story of Old Cahawba,” War came to Cahawba. The confederate government she says. “You can read the landscape like you can a confiscated the rail line, dismantling the rails and spikes, book. To understand what is happening in our country reusing them on a new line connecting Selma with now, we must think critically about our past.” Demopolis. During June 1863, the Confederate Army SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 9

S H E Q U AYA B A I L E Y I N H E R R I D I N G K I T. PHOTO COURTESY OF BAILEY

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

BIKING BOOM Since spring shutdowns, cycling has become extremely popular. For those finding a new passion for pedaling, we asked seasoned riders of road, trail, and gravel for advice on gear, safety, and destinations.

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

cross the Blue Ridge region, bike shops are selling out of stock. Kids bikes, leisure bikes, mountain bikes, stationary bikes—people staying isolated for safety are ready to ride, keeping inventory low, while the wait time for bike repairs can sometimes be weeks as mechanics try to keep up with demand. Whether you’re new to biking or rediscovering your love for riding on two wheels, we caught up with cyclists across disciplines and riding styles to get the best advice for beginners looking to take their skills to the next level.

Sharing the Road The Rider: Shequaya Bailey Home Base: Pennsylvania Riding Style: road rider and bike commuter When you first start riding, it’s important to understand what you want to get out of biking. “Know who you are,” said cyclist Shequaya Bailey. Do you want to ride around your neighborhood alone? Do you prefer cycling with large groups? Do you eventually want to get into the racing scene? These are all things you will come to understand the more you ride and the more you interact with the cycling community. When Bailey first started cycling, she connected with the Pittsburgh Major Taylor Cycling Club. “Major Taylor helped me learn how to be a better cyclist,” she said. “I didn’t know about the whole gear thing, cadence, and all these terms. Why are people clipping in? What are the benefits to that? And then learning about all different types of saddles and why it’s important to find the right one. There’s so many things that I didn’t anticipate.” Bailey now serves as the president of the club, but when she started, more experienced cyclists were a resource for information on new routes, bike maintenance,

and gear tips. When looking to join a cycling group, Bailey recommends trying out several in your area to get a feel for your preferred riding style. “There’s so many and you won’t like every club,” she said. “They have different riding styles, different cultures. Maybe they ride too early or too late. Find something that fits your life.” A club’s ride descriptions will clue you in on what to expect from the group in terms of how fast and far they go. No-drop group rides are a great place to start as they don’t leave anyone behind, no matter your pace. Once she started riding more consistently, Bailey connected with other cyclists through the Allegheny Cycling Association, which puts on a local race series in Pittsburgh. “I met other racers and got into that culture, learning a whole new type of bike riding,” Bailey said. “Training can be fun but it’s also work. I think having a group of people who see the fun in it but are also going to push themselves is really important.” For aspiring road cyclists, it’s also important to learn how to ride comfortably alongside cars. Be aware of where cars are on the road, look out for hazards, and read about proper biking etiquette. Bailey also recommends finding parallel routes or multi-use trails that will get you onto safer routes. “Always expect the worst from drivers,” Bailey said. “I know that sounds awful but it’ll save your life.”

Bailey’s Top Tips BEGINNERS’ ADVICE: “Don’t get caught up in the brand thing or what’s the latest,” Bailey said of cycling gear. “That stuff doesn’t matter. Just make sure you’re comfortable and happy when you’re riding.”

so she knows she has everything before heading out. For longer rides, she adds pannier bags to the rack on the back of her bike to carry a lock, bungee cords, and more. And she always carries a light for her bike. “This is especially true when you’re commuting or going for a ride after work and you think you’re going to get back in time before it gets dark,” Bailey said. “You just never know if you’re going to be caught out there. It’s always good to have light so that you can be seen.” FAVORITE PLACES TO RIDE: When not biking around the city of Pittsburgh, Bailey likes to get out on longer routes like the Great Allegheny Passage, Montour Trail, and Panhandle Trail in Pennsylvania and West Virginia. “[The] Blue Ridge Parkway is definitely the number one destination ride for any cyclist that has been cycling for a bit,” Bailey said. “Definitely not for the novice. It’s very hilly, but beautiful roads. It’s really long so you could be riding the Blue Ridge forever and never get sick of it.”

Hitting the Trails The Rider: Korey Hopkins Home Base: Maryland Riding Style: mountain biking and enduro racing Korey Hopkins started cycling after college for recreation and exercise, and he quickly gravitated to bikes with fat tires

IN THE PACK: Bailey has a checklist of all the things she needs, including a pump, tubes, multi-tool, tire levers, and patch kit,

SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Sounding Knob Fire Tower • Virginia Maple Syrup Trail • Barn Quilt Trail • Hiking • Fishing • History

Epic Road Trip

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Relax. Recharge. Reset. WanderLove is about doing what you love with the people you love. Experience the unspoiled views and hidden gems in our mountain community. Plan your next road trip at highlandcounty.org

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VTC, Tony Hall

David Cockerham Photography

This is Lynchburg. In the City of Lynchburg, we know life is more valuable than the hours clocked. We look forward to time outside, enjoying a picnic on the Downtown Bluffwalk overlooking the James River and a long ride on our urban trails. We invite you to come see for yourself the beauty and vitality of our urban oasis in the heart of Central Virginia.

lynchburgvirginia.org

Image courtesy of Storming Thunder Ridge

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

"Definitely work on the fundamentals. Get an understanding of how your brakes work, how the suspension works under you. On easier trails, start trying to tackle small logs and rocks. Keep in mind that it’s all fun. So never lose track of that."

and cushy suspension systems. Now, as an avid mountain biker, he spends most of his time in the saddle on singletrack trails laden with rocks, roots, water crossings, and fallen trees. He says new riders should be patient and take time to learn how to clear obstacles, change gears, and take the corners on the rougher terrain. “Definitely work on the fundamentals,” Hopkins said. “Get an understanding of how your brakes work, how the suspension works under you. On easier trails, start trying to tackle small logs and rocks. Keep in mind that it’s all fun. So never lose track of that.” Although the internet has plenty of resources for aspiring mountain bikers, Hopkins recommends connecting with a local bike shop, something he wishes he’d done before he unknowingly picked the wrong size bike. Experienced shop owners

KOREY HOPKINS HITS THE TRAILS. PHOTO BY HOPKINS

Yuto Hirkai ’20, Japan Photo: VAHSMTB

At Blue Ridge School, we are experts in how boys learn best. The result is a college prep program that guides boys to reach their full potential in the classroom and beyond. Our 750-acre campus at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains is home to a renowned Outdoor Program that fosters a respect for nature and leadership skills that last a lifetime.

MILES OF

TRAILS

ALL BOYS. ALL BOARDING. ALL COLLEGE BOUND. BLUERIDGESCHOOL.COM

can make sure you have the right frame size, saddle height, and handlebar reach to make your ride more comfortable. “Not having anybody to actually help me with what was going on gave me a lot of issues,” he said. Hopkins also suggests connecting with local bike clubs, biking advocacy organizations, and Facebook groups. The locals in those groups can help with gear questions and point you towards the best trails in town. “Don’t be afraid to change it up,” Hopkins said. “If you ride the same trails after work, there’s nothing wrong with that. But there’s definitely something to be said about riding new trails to get a fresh perspective.” On the competitive side Hopkins enjoys enduro races, which mix elements of cross-country and downhill mountain biking. “For enduros, you need a mix of the technical skills and fitness,” he said. “You’re using completely different fitness, muscles, and skills.” But overall the mixed discipline stage events are considered approachable for new racers. “You don’t have to have specialty bikes,” Hopkins said. “(It’s) good for somebody looking to get into the sport without having to make a big investment in tires, bikes, and other gear.”

Hopkins’ Top Tips BEGINNERS’ ADVICE: “Be ready to explore and try out all the disciplines,” Hopkins said. “It doesn’t matter which way you fall, all of it is good. Find where you fit in as far as discipline and just run with it.” IN THE PACK: “For me, it was definitely a learning experience,” Hopkins said. “For shorter rides where I’m close to home and know the trails, I’ll try to just carry a multi-tool and tire changing [kit]. Depending on the time of year, a bottle [of water] works for me. But it’s definitely personal preference.” For longer rides, he adds food and a small CamelBak hydration pack to maintain energy on the trail. FAVORITE PLACES TO RIDE: For mountain biking, Stokesville Lodge in Virginia and the Frederick Watershed trails in Maryland. On the gravity/ downhill side, Windrock Bike Park in the Cumberland Mountains of Tennessee.

Grinding Gravel The Rider: Ashley Finch Home Base: Georgia Riding Style: gravel rider and bike commuter Rougher than road but less technical than singletrack, gravel riding is becoming increasingly popular in the Blue Ridge

A S H L E Y F I N C H S TA N D S W I T H H E R B I K E . PHOTO BY SARAH LASHINSKY

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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and beyond. For those new to gravel, avid rider Ashley Finch says one of the first things to figure out is how tires handle differently than they do on pavement or trail. “I always recommend for people getting into gravel to set their tires up tubeless if they can,” Finch said. “You have sealant that seals all of the holes from all the little nicks that the gravel is going to put in your tires. If they’re constantly popping, you’re not going to get very far.” While setting up tubeless tires might take a while to master, it will save you time when you aren’t having to make frequent patch stops on the long remote stretches typical of gravel rides. These lengthy jaunts on steadily bumpy terrain can also take a gradual toll on the body, so Finch says proper nutrition and hydration are key. “Make sure, especially in the Southeast,

"I always recommend for people getting into gravel to set their tires up tubeless if they can,” Finch said. “You have sealant that seals all of the holes from all the little nicks that the gravel is going to put in your tires. If they’re constantly popping, you’re not going to get very far."

you carry a ton of water,” she said. “Gravel cycling can be really strenuous, especially if you’re up in the mountains. You’re going up super steep grades. It takes a lot out of you. You have to eat a lot while you’re on the bike. Fine tune how much you need to eat, what foods make you feel good on the bike.” As you get more comfortable spending longer periods of time in the saddle, consider multi-day bikepacking trips that will allow you to cover more distance. But taking longer trips doesn’t necessarily mean you have to invest in a pricey touring rig with expensive accompanying gear—all becoming more prevalent as gravel riding gains buzz. Finch found cycling groups like WTF Bikexplorers ATL are great about sharing gear with new riders. She also visits secondhand shops and repurposes old equipment. “For new cyclists, it can be really intimidating and daunting when

you start to look into cycling online and everyone has really expensive gear,” she said. “But you don’t need all of that stuff. If you already have some camping gear and you have a way to fix it to your bike, just experiment.”

Finch’s Top Tips BEGINNERS’ ADVICE: “Understanding your limitations and your bike’s limitations are important,” Finch said. “Make sure your bike is equipped for the terrain that you’re interested in going on.” Finch also uses apps like Ride With GPS and Strava to find new routes that other cyclists recommend. IN THE PACK: “In the Southeast, I’m always going to have a rain jacket on me,” Finch said. “You never know. Especially in the summer, the rain comes out of nowhere.” FAVORITE PLACES TO RIDE: The gravel routes at Mulberry Gap Mountain Bike Getaway in the mountains of North Georgia and Chattahoochee National Forest.

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colorful getaways Fall Escapes on the Byways and Blueways of the Blue Ridge BY ELLEN KANZINGER

s the humidity finally gives way to cooler temperatures, fall colors emerge throughout the peaks and valleys of the Blue Ridge. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for a scenic escape to do some leaf peeping at a safe distance, we have routes for colorful exploration via roads, trails, and waterways. Follow one of these byways and blueways of the Blue Ridge to create the perfect autumn adventure.

W R I G H T ' S C R E E K F A L L S AT LAKE JOCASSEE OFF THE CHEROKEE FOOTHILLS SCENIC B Y WAY. P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F UPCOUNTRY SOUTH CAROLINA

Ocoee Scenic Byway, Tenn. Distance: 26 miles

Highlights: Take the Ocoee Scenic Byway through Cherokee National Forest, the first designated national forest scenic byway. Stop at one of the overlooks for views of the Ocoee River Gorge, Sugarloaf Mountain, and more as you drive up Chilhowee Mountain. SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Parksville Lake for boating, swimming, and picnicking. The Chilhowee Recreation area has 25 miles of hiking and biking trails, views of a waterfall, and a campground. In the warmer months visit the Ocoee Whitewater Center, where you can paddle class III and IV rapids at the site of the 1996 Olympic canoe and kayak slalom course.

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Alternative Route: Head westward and hop on the Tennessee River Blueway. You can paddle more than 45 miles through downtown Chattanooga and the Tennessee River Gorge as you take in the fall colors. There are a number of access points and campsites along the way, including Maclellan Island and Prentice Cooper State Forest, if you want to turn this into a multi-day trip.

leaves turn a brilliant red, Big Walker Mountain Scenic Byway offers stunning views of the mountains and valleys of Jefferson National Forest, including Mount Rogers. Keep a lookout for eagles, hawks, and other birds of prey as they migrate through the area in the fall.

Alternative Route: With 17 ramps, explore 48 miles of the Chattahoochee River National Water Trail, the first designated national water trail, by boat. This river, with a few shallow sections, stays cool year-round and is a great spot for cold water trout fishing. You could spend days exploring all of the stops along the way, including the Buford Trout Hatchery, Chattahoochee River Environmental Education Center, and Chattahoochee Nature Center, as well as several parks with riverside picnic spots.

Ridge and Valley Scenic Byway, Ga.

Midland Trail, W.Va.

Highlights: Drive the Ridge and Valley Scenic Byway as it loops through the mountains of north Georgia. Take a

Highlights: Road trip across West Virginia as you take in the state capital, river valleys, and more from the

Southern Virginia Wild Blueway, Va. Distance: 100+ miles

Highlights: Traverse three rivers—the Dan, Staunton, and Banister—and two lakes—Kerr and Gaston—on the Southern Virginia Wild Blueway. Along the way, you will pass through waterfront towns, with plenty of

short walk to see the falls at Keown Falls Recreation Area or hop on the Pinhoti Trail for miles of climbs and descents. Hike or bike the trails at John’s Mountain Wildlife Management Area or spend the night at the Pocket Recreation Area surrounded by the changing colors.

places to stop for a bite to eat, and undeveloped land to make this a peaceful, secluded trip downriver. The many surrounding state parks and public lands provide opportunities for hiking, fishing, and camping. Turn your eyes towards the sky at Staunton River State Park, a designated International Dark Sky Park with telescopes to rent and interpretive programs. Alternative Route: Whether you’re driving the 16-mile state highway in the spring when the rhododendron are in bloom or in the fall as the

Distance: 50.7 miles

Distance: 180 miles

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Midland Trail. At the New River Gorge, hikers, mountain bikers, climbers, and paddlers alike will find plenty of options to keep them occupied. View the fall colors at the gorge from the aerial tramway at Hawks Nest State Park. Snake around 156 turns as you cross Sewell Mountain. Or take in the tranquil scene at one of the 12 waterfalls along the route, including Kanawha Falls. Alternative Route: If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re really looking to get into the woods, the Greenbrier River Trail offers a getaway without access to cell service in this National Radio Quiet Zone. Experience fall along this 78-mile stretch of gravel rail trail however you prefer. Hike or bike the trail as it follows the water or paddle sections of the river. Be sure to check water levels as the river can quickly become unrunnable.

Upper Saluda River Blueway, S.C. Distance: 120+ miles

Highlights: Float the Upper Saluda River Blueway past hardwood forests and farmland in upstate South Carolina. Most sections are doable for beginner paddlers with a few granite

outcrop shoals that require more technical maneuvering. Choose to start at the south, middle, or north fork of the Saluda River and incorporate a number of additional recreation opportunities. Caesars Head and Jones Gap state parks and Pleasant Ridge Park offer over a hundred miles of hiking and biking trails, several waterfalls, fishing spots, and river access. While you paddle, watch for blue herons, ospreys, bald eagles, largemouth bass, and more. Stop for lunch at Irvin Pitts Memorial Park and enjoy a meal by the water. Be prepared to portage dams along the way. Alternative Route: Discover 118 miles of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Byway. This route is full of excellent fishing spots, towering waterfalls, and beautiful overlooks. For side trips, there are 10 state parks just off the byway or within a short driving distance. Make sure to check out the views at Table Rock State Park or get on Lake Jocassee at the only public boat ramp at Devil Fork State Park. Just off the byway, walk across Campbells Covered Bridge, the only remaining covered bridge in South Carolina.

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Mountain Waters Scenic Byway, N.C. Distance: 61 miles

Highlights: Pack a full day into driving the Mountain Waters Scenic Byway through the Nantahala National Forest. View the three major waterfalls— Cullasaja Falls, Dry Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls—as the Cullasaja River drops through the gorge. Take a side trip to Wayah Bald and the historic fire lookout tower at the summit. Water lovers of all kinds will enjoy getting on the Nantahala River, whether for whitewater rafting or trout fishing, or boating on Fontana Lake. Take one of the many trails off the road to explore more of the area’s color. Alternative Route: No matter your skill level, paddle a section of the French Broad River Paddle Trail through the mountains of western North Carolina. With several access points and camping spots along the way, you can go for an afternoon or a few days.

FA L L O N T H E O C O E E R I V E R . P H O T O COURTESY OF THE TENNESSEE O V E R H I L L H E R I TA G E A S S O C I AT I O N

Red River Gorge Scenic Byway, Ky. Distance: 46 miles

Highlights: From the soaring sandstone cliffs to the naturally carved stone arches, experience the geological wonder from the Red River Gorge Scenic Byway. Make sure to have your lights on as you drive through the Nada Tunnel, a one-way section of the road that leads into the gorge recreation area. Extend your trip with the extensive rock climbing, canoeing, and backcountry camping options in the area. Or hike the Sheltowee Trace National Recreation Trail for more than 300 miles. Just down the road, take in the grandeur of the Daniel Boone National Forest along Zilpo Road with stops for the Tater Knob Fire Tower, Clear Creek Iron Furnace, and Cave Run Lake. Alternative Routes: Paddle the Green River to experience fall in Mammoth Cave National Park. Experience the abundance of wildlife in the national park as you take in the dramatic bluffs and surrounding landscape inhabited by turkey, deer, reptiles, and beavers. Stop at one of the small islands along the way or find a spot to go swimming.

Mountain Maryland Byway, Md. Distance: 193 miles

Highlights: Make your way through the mountains and valleys of western Maryland on the Mountain Maryland Byway. You will have several chances

to view the fall colors over water at one of the parks along the route. Start off at Maryland’s largest lake at Deep Creek Lake State Park for public boat ramps and miles of trails. When it opens again, explore the Discovery Center to learn more about the local ecology. Stop off at Swallow Falls State Park to view the 54-foot waterfall or head to Big Run State Park for some paddling and fishing on the Savage River Reservoir. Finish at Dans Mountain State Park for sweeping panoramic views of the area. You can also take a side trip on the C&O Canal, with 184 miles of gravel trail as the former railway line follows the Potomac River, the perfect fall biking route. Alternative Routes: Follow the Monocacy Scenic Water Trail for 41 miles of fall scenery as you pass by historic towns, battlefields, and parks. You can view Michael’s Mill, a gristmill built in 1739, on a bluff overlooking the river. Stretch your legs at the Monocacy River Natural Resources Management Area for some hiking and fishing. This river is best run in the late fall, spring, or early summer.

Mountain Parkway takes you through three states dotted with opportunities to view the changing leaves along the way. Drive along the rim of the Little River Canyon Natural Preserve, a 700-foot-deep gorge with exciting paddling and rock climbing opportunities. The rugged terrain at Cloudland Canyon State Park gives visitors panoramic views of the mountains, ravines, and waterfalls from 64 miles of trail. Take the passenger railway to the top of Lookout Mountain on a clear day for views of seven states. While there, view Ruby Falls, the tallest underground waterfall open to the public. Alternative Routes: The Alabama Scenic River Trail offers more than 5,000 miles of paddling from the northern part of the state to the Gulf of Mexico. The 650 miles of the Alabama River make up the core section of the route starting at the Alabama-Georgia state line. Discover any number of recreation opportunities along the way, from parks and preserves to historic Southern towns. You’ll find outfitters along the way to help you get on the water.

Lookout Mountain Parkway, Ala., Ga., and Tenn.

Laurel Highlands Scenic Byway, Penn.

Highlights: From Gadsden, Ala., to Chattanooga, Tenn., the Lookout

Highlights: Journey through southwestern Pennsylvania on the ENTER TO WIN: BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 23

Distance: 93 miles

Distance: 68 miles

Laurel Highlands Scenic Byway. Hike part, or all, of the 70-mile Laurel Highlands Trail featuring sections of rugged, steep terrain starting at Laurel Ridge State Park. Stop and marvel at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater, a house notable for its relationship with nature. More options abound at Ohiopyle State Park, including hiking, biking, and climbing, as well as access to a section of the Great Allegheny Passage. The park also holds the Youghiogheny River Gorge—a popular spot for class III and IV whitewater rafting—and multiple waterfalls, including the stunning Ohiopyle Falls from the accessible observation deck. Alternative Routes: Paddlers of all backgrounds will find something on the 72-mile Lehigh River Water Trail. More experienced paddlers will enjoy the northern section of the river, starting at Lehigh Gorge State Park, with a few class III rapids and fast moving water. As the river widens, paddlers looking for more of a leisurely trip can float the southern section as the Lehigh River flows into the Delaware River. Please check local guidelines and regulations before making plans to get outside. Check locations to make sure access is open to the public. Remember to practice social distancing guidelines, wear a mask, and respect others' health.

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BIKEPACKING THE TRANSVIRGINIA BIKE ROUTE BY JESS DADDIO

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

THE TRANSVIRGINIA BIKE ROUTE RUNS FOR 550 MILES FROM WA S H I N G T O N , D . C . , T O D A M A S C U S , VA .

To feel the highs of bikepacking, you have to endure the lows.

well be riding through wet concrete. Maybe it’s snack time. Or maybe it’s the prior day’s 9,000 feet—and the past week’s 37,000 feet—of climbing sapping the strength from my legs. Either way, I cram a handful of gummy bears in my mouth. I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful. This refrain—borrowed from Bill Murray’s character Bob Wiley in the 1991 classic "What About Bob?"—has been our mantra from day one. Day after day I recite it to myself, timing the cadence of the words “I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful.” with the rotation of the cranks and the (annoyingly) Lindsey smiles, but doesn’t respond. We both persistent and rhythmic click-click of my creaky are toasted from the day’s 70 miles of hard riding. bottom bracket. It’s a silly, paradoxical sort of With 30 miles still to go—all uphill—even talking chant, but its hypnotic effect distracts me from the feels like a waste of precious energy. I put my head attrition in my limbs. down and pedal on. Of course, this is precisely what I love about It is day seven of our trip down the TransVirginia bikepacking. Not the slumming, necessarily, but the Bike Route, a 550-mile mostly gravel route that overcoming of the slumming. Like most adventure begins in Washington, D.C., and ends in Damascus, sports, bikepacking can be as easy or as hard as Va. Our eyes are set on the Comers Rock you want to make it. More often than not, I find Campground high up on Iron Mountain. If we reach myself just cresting the threshold between Type I it tonight, we’ll finish the route tomorrow. and Type II fun, the difference between fun in the As we climb away from the New River south moment and fun in retrospect. Having bikepacked of Pulaski and into the Mount Rogers National the 2,700-mile Great Divide Mountain Bike Route Recreation Area, a bone-deep fatigue settles over and shorter routes like the TransVirginia and the me like a weighted blanket. Every pedal stroke 250-mile RockStar route, I know full and well feels labored. I chug along, so sluggish I might as SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 27

that on any given day of a bikepacking tour, I can experience the gamut of emotions, sometimes all within the same hour.

NO VALLEYS, NO PEAKS Even on day one, it was clear that the TransVirginia would be fraught with ups and downs. Our 8 a.m. departure from Washington D.C., was hardly early enough to escape the heat last September. By 10 a.m., temperatures had soared above 95 degrees. Humidity hung heavy in the air. The changing of the seasons was only a week away, but summer still reigned mercilessly. The first 50 miles of the route skirted northern Virginia’s traffic via rail-trails. We made quick work of the flat miles, but not without consequence. By mile 55, we both were cooked. Head swimming, legs shaking, I was so hot I’d stopped sweating. As we neared an intersection at the 60-mile mark, Lindsey called over her shoulder. “Are we going right or left up here?” I looked down at my phone and zoomed in on the route. We were approaching a left hand turn onto Yellow Schoolhouse Road. “Yellow,” I blurted. Lindsey paused, looking back at me, her eyebrows raised. “I mean, left.” I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful. I forced down some electrolyte drink mix. We still had another 20 miles to go before we reached the sole campground in a sea of private land. We pedaled on, and just as we were tapping into our final energy reserves, the Bluemont General Store appeared like a mirage. A sign touting ice cream, fresh eggs, and harness bells lured us inside. Sitting on the deck with a cold lemonade and a handful of hard-boiled eggs, I felt reborn, or perhaps just rehydrated. By day three, the heat had abated but the humidity had not. Our shirts and chamois were perpetually damp. Soaked with sweat as we were, the land around us was completely parched. Every stream and creek and spring we passed was dry, a disconcerting realization given the 8,000 feet of climbing ahead that day. The first 3,500 feet of climbing came painfully slow, following washed-out singletrack and steep gravel Forest Service roads, but I forgot about the effort as soon as we started to descend. In five miles, we ripped down 1,400 feet in elevation to the unincorporated community of Mathias, West Virginia. But soon, we were climbing again, this time on chunky doubletrack littered with baby-head-sized rocks. Our pace slowed from 13 mph to 10, then 8, then 5. I was down to one half-empty water bottle for the remaining 20 miles. If the dry riverbed beside us was any indication of the water to come, we were screwed. As we topped the ridge, thunder rumbled overhead. At the first drops, we took cover beneath the scrawny limbs of a pine tree. Rain poured from the sky in a heavy curtain, but just as soon as it started, the downpour stopped. The previously hard-packed road was now 28

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

miserably muddy. We navigated around the edges of hub-deep puddles the color of tomato soup. Soft clay turned to sand turned to grass. For the next eight miles, we picked our way along overgrown doubletrack. Stinging nettle and briars stung and tore our skin. Downed branches threatened to rip the derailleurs from our bikes. I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful. As we rounded a bend in the track, late-afternoon light filtered through the trees. The forest sparkled in brilliant hues of gold. Even the stinging nettle looked magical. Our spirits boosted, but our thirst still far from satiated, we cranked out the final miles, unsure if our next creek crossing would be flowing or dry. We were in luck. Out of the many feeder creeks that dump into Switzer Lake, only one remained flowing.

SPARED, AGAIN Back in the highlands of Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, Lindsey and I run into a road closure, the second one we’ve encountered on our trip. At the first closure 130 miles ago, we’d ignored the sign, choosing to take our chances instead of rerouting and adding mileage to our already big day. The road, we discovered, was closed for good reason. The Virginia Department of Transportation was rebuilding a bridge that crossed over a steep ravine. Were it not for the temporary catwalks—and some good-natured VDOT workers who used their crane to get our bikes from one side of the bank to the other—we would have been forced to backtrack and reroute. It is getting dark. We are exhausted and, unsurprisingly, almost out of water. We decide to take our chances again and forge ahead. Before long, we come upon two bulldozers bookending a construction site and blockading the road. We waste an hour bushwhacking through the thick rhododendron to get around. Finally, some three hours later, we top out on the climb and begin the final descent to our campsite at Comers Rock. Our water bottles are empty, stomachs grumbling, legs entirely worked, but we have made it. The day’s 97-mile haul sets us up perfectly to finish the TransVirginia the following day. We collapse in a pile of bikes and gear at the first campsite we see and stumble over to the water pump. In the fading light, I can just barely make out a sign hanging on the spigot. OUT OF ORDER. Lindsey and I don’t need to say anything. The despair is palpable. We are too tired to ride farther in search of water, but too thirsty to go without. Not even Bob’s words can help me now. And it is here, at the bottom of the barrel, that the universe steps in with a simple act, a fortuitous meeting of time and space that, the more it happens, feels less coincidental and more like fate. After not seeing a soul for hours, we hear a voice call to us from across the otherwise empty campground. It’s the campground host, and he has water. We are spared.

Interested in riding the TransVirginia Bike Route? Check out these FAQs to get started. ?

When is the best time of year to ride the TransVirginia?

Mid-April through October is typically the most ideal weather window for riding the TransVirginia. Snow and freezing temperatures are known to linger in elevations above 4,000 feet in April and October, so be prepared to experience a wide range of temperatures during those months.

How long does it take to ride?

Most riders touring the route will take anywhere between nine and 15 days to complete the route, riding an average of 36 to 61 miles per day. The current fastest known time for a southbound independent time trial is 3 days, 14 hours, 58 minutes.

What is food/water availability like?

The TransVirginia passes gas stations and country stores every 50-60 miles. Riders will not have trouble finding surface water to filter; however, some springs can dry up during the heat of summer.

What bike should I ride?

This route features a variety of terrain, from smooth pavement and well-maintained gravel to chunky doubletrack and singletrack. A gravel bike with bigger tires (at the very least, 40-45mm, but 2.0” is recommended) and low gearing will make the rocky roads and steep climbs much more enjoyable.

How does the TransVirginia compare to rail-trails like the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal?

The TransVirginia is a serious step up from touring railtrails. The route features almost 46,000 feet of climbing in 550 miles, with 60% of those miles navigating off-road terrain. However, TransVirginia route developers recently released a “Valley TransVA Alternate Route,” which reduces the overall elevation gain by 13,000 feet. This alternate can more comfortably be ridden on a gravel bike with 30-40mm tires. For more information on all things TransVirginia, visit www.transvirginia.org.

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get Back to your own path

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the forest she saved

RE STO RTATIO N E FFO RTS CR E AT E A WOOD ED SAN CT UA RY JU ST O U TS IDE ASHEVILL E'S CI T Y L I M I TS BY ROBERT MCGEE

helli Stanback first stood on the grounds of OM Sanctuary holding her small daughter two decades ago with no idea that she would one day be called to save this urban forest from the chopping block of development. Back then it was home to the Richmond Hill Inn. But in 2011, with the property facing bankruptcy foreclosure after suspected arson engulfed the historic Pearson Mansion, Stanback formed a nonprofit to purchase the surviving buildings and 54 acres to create North Carolina’s OM Sanctuary, a retreat center whose mission is to inspire healthy lifestyle practices through holistic education and connection with nature. “I felt that Asheville was becoming fragmented,” Stanback says. “I thought the community would benefit from a center where people could learn from and immerse themselves in nature.” The mansion that burned was famous for housing a 5-star restaurant run by a chef who once worked for film legend Robert Redford. But what Stanback acquired was far from glamorous. A pile of rubble, neglected buildings, tin cans left by squatters, and a forest strangled by invasive species. It’s the forest that’s become central to what OM is and plans to be. In 2015, Stanback worked with the Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy (SAHC) to place an easement on 42 acres containing cove and oak forest, low mountain pines, and term economic gain continues in "Natural places mixed hardwoods, ensuring that this surrounding areas, Stanback keeps are essential for land just three miles from downtown her long-range vision of preservation human health," Asheville will remain intact forever. in mind. “With few urban open says Stanback, “Natural places are essential for spaces remaining near Asheville,” who grew up human health,” says Stanback, who she says, “protecting the forest with grew up playing outside in Minnesota. a conservation easement was the playing outside in “Once they are lost to development, clear, sustainable choice.” She takes Minnesota. "Once they are gone forever. We must forest stewardship as seriously as her they are lost to preserve them now for our sake, and role as OM’s Founder and CEO. In development, they 2019, OM partnered with the Nature for the sake of the future.” are gone forever. Conservation of the forest not Conservancy and the Asheville Fire We must preserve only provides carbon sequestration Department to complete phase one along the I-26 corridor, it helps of a prescribed burn to help protect them now for our protect tributary streams of the against forest fires while reinvigorating sake, and for the French Broad River Watershed from the woodlands. Despite all she’s sake of the future." accomplished, Stanback is quick to sources of sedimentation and other pollution. Carl Silverstein, SAHC’s credit others, whether it’s her small executive director says, “It’s a rare gem containing staff enduring unprecedented events, her husband an uncommon cluster of natural features near Brad for his insights into land restoration, or the Asheville’s urban core. In addition to providing people at MountainTrue for the work they’ve done to ecosystem services, it preserves a scenic view control non-native invasive plants. seen by many people every day: recreational “Goodness,” Thoreau said, “is the only users of the French Broad River and everyone who investment that never fails.” And those who visit to drives past it.” attend wellness programs or stay in OM’s 25 rooms While rampant development for shortand cottages benefit from close proximity to the

O N L A N D O N C E S L AT E D F O R D E V E L O P M E N T, O M S A N C T U A R Y, C R E AT E D B Y S H E L L I S TA N B A C K ( P I C T U R E D ) , N O W H O L D S A N E X PA N S E O F PRESERVED FOREST JUST THREE MILES FROM DOWNTOWN BUILDINGS. P H O T O B Y I L O N A S TA N B A C K .

major dividend of Stanback’s efforts: an evolving forest with mossy paths bordered by ferns, mountain laurel, and rosebay rhododendrons leading past American beech and holly to reach ephemeral pools and habitat for salamanders. On a plateau overlooking the French Broad River, a former heap of broken bricks has been removed to make way for Prayer Rock Circle, a beloved spot favored for sacred ceremonies and where a traveling Buddhist recently spent several weeks offering blessings in the wake of Covid-19 closures. Just before the pandemic struck, Prayer Rock Circle was also visited by a group of children introduced to OM through Muddy Sneakers, an organization that brings fifth-grade students onto protected lands with the goal of introducing them to the wonders of the natural world. OM’s master plan includes more such synergistic alliances, as well as self-directed hermitage retreats for individuals who wish to take a break from technology and the frenetic pace of the outer world. While the region abounds with many opportunities to test one’s physical limits on more

SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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strenuous ascents, OM’s forest is staking out its own unique territory, attracting visitors who, for a variety of reasons, wish to spend time in nature without necessarily needing to set a speed record or bag the highest peak. Mildred Barya, a Richmond Hill neighbor who first visited OM for a wellness retreat, says, “Walking the OM trail has taught me to become fully human. At first I thought I was just getting exercise, fresh air… but then realized that I was becoming more observant, not because I was expecting to chance upon a bear or mother turkey with her poults, but other aspects of my life were changing as well. I would return to work with greater focus and attention. I started to hear sounds I had not heard before, to see clearly, and to feel a deep, comforting "Walking the OM trail has knowing taught me to become fully about certain issues I’d been human. At first I thought I pondering. I was just getting exercise, thank the trail fresh air… but then realized for bringing that I was becoming more into my life a observant, not because I new level of appreciation, was expecting to chance joy, and clarity.” upon a bear or mother OM’s trail isn’t turkey with her poults, but for outwardly other aspects of my life visible rewards. were changing as well. I It’s a place would return to work with simply to be. One greater focus and attention. program OM I started to hear sounds I offers to help had not heard before, to guests do just see clearly, and to feel a that is forest deep, comforting knowing bathing (the Japanese about certain issues I’d been practice pondering. I thank the trail of shinrin for bringing into my life a yoku), led new level of appreciation, by Wellness joy, and clarity." Director Mary Liske. Forest bathing not only lowers heart rate and boosts the immune systems; it’s been proven to reduce stress, boost creativity and increase feelings of happiness. A daily dose of just half an hour in nature works wonders. EPA studies have shown that the average American spends more than 90% of their time indoors. And as we’ve learned these past months when we’ve been denied access to parks, never have we needed nature so much. “People feel overbooked and too busy,” Stanback says. “We want to help them to unplug and slow down.” Stanback often speaks of the symbiotic relationship between humans and nature, and she hopes to cultivate a similar symbiosis between OM Sanctuary and the community it’s being created to serve. During OM’s temporary closure forced by Covid-19, Stanback is visibly moved each time even the smallest donation arrives to help with trail maintenance and ongoing forest restoration. When the sanctuary reopens in mid-September, Stanback looks forward to involving those interested in the many facets of OM, be they cultural evenings,

TRAILS RUN THROUGH THE WOODS OF OM SANCTUARY'S 54 ACRES. PHOTO C O U R T E S Y O F O M S A N C T U A R Y.

educational events, learning seminars around bee pollination and food gardens, or the creation of more mind-body programs to benefit heart and soul. “Whole people,” she says, “are needed to create a whole planet.” Indeed, if we’ve learned anything during the pandemic, it’s that being closer to nature is more crucial than ever. With limited access to parks and beaches these last several months, it’s become abundantly clear that we are less human without it. When seeing firsthand this forest that Stanback has saved, one can’t help but view OM’s accomplishment as something of a sublime protest to benefit all. Her action is perhaps quieter than many of the turbulent conversations swirling about our country right now, but that does not make it less profound. As so many urban forests vanish, Stanback stands her ground firmly as if to say, “I nurture this forest so that the forest may nurture all.”

The week we met, Stanback, still adjusting to the many challenges brought on by pandemic closures, wasn’t as daunted by revenue losses and uncertainties as she was excited about OM’s future and its many possibilities to serve. In the midst of many financial and logistical hurdles still to clear during this worldwide cosmic reset, Stanback not only remains undaunted; she also takes a moment to embody all that OM is when she celebrates a fawn being born in OM’s forest one Sunday in June. The tiny deer seems not only a good omen, but also serves as inspiration to strengthen Stanback’s resolve to be even more certain of her work during uncertain times. That fawn will hopefully give birth in OM’s forest next year. And one day in the distant future, a child first introduced to nature in the OM forest will stand holding her own daughter just as Stanback did long ago in these wondrous woods so close to town. SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 33

Should I Stay or Should I Go?

H O L D I N G B AC K T H E A .T. C L AS S O F 2 0 2 0 B Y J U L I A G R E E N | P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y C AT H E R I N E T U R G Y

ear carefully selected and tested, resupply boxes packed and addressed, training miles covered to condition the body, negotiating a leave of absence work or resigning entirely—preparing to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail comes with a sizable and complex to-do list. Many people spend years finding the right time to pause regular responsibilities and prepare for the physical and logistical challenge of walking more than 2,000 miles with a backpack and a dream. The Class of 2020 started strong. By March 20, 1,367 thru-hikers had registered at Amicalola Falls, the approach trail in Georgia that leads to the beginning of the A.T., a seven percent increase from that date one year earlier. While those hikers were settling into their journey, preoccupied with mileage and nourishment, excited and nervous for the path ahead, the coronavirus was also on the move. By that time, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) had convened a task force of representatives from public land management agencies, volunteer clubs, and other stakeholders. They sent three emails in the last two weeks of March, first asking long-distance hikers to postpone their thru-hikes, then asking all hikers to stay off the trail, and finally stating that thru-hikers who continued would not be recognized in the class of 2020. “We had to face the reality of the disease,” said Sandra Marra, president & CEO of the ATC. “The median age of our volunteer base is 65 to 70. They are in the sweet spot of highest risk groups.” Hikers could be “walking infectors and going into small communities could have led to serious infection.” Thru-hiker Carl McDonald, a longdistance cyclist who has completed numerous tours including one from Anacortes, Washington, to Bar Harbor, A S P I R I N G A . T T H R U - H I K E R S W E R E A S K E D T O L E AV E THE TRAIL IN MARCH.

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Maine, started the A.T. on February 25, after spending months covering 800 miles on trails near his Florida home. On his way to Hot Springs, N.C., in mid-March, McDonald met hikers recounting “all kinds of doom and gloom about what we could expect in Hot Springs—restaurants closed, laundromats closed, hotels closed.” But when McDonald arrived in Hot Springs around March 20, that was not the case. He stayed overnight, did laundry, resupplied, and spoke to his concerned sister in Florida, who had already started driving north, intent on picking him up. They agreed he would continue on and check in with her when he got to Erwin, Tenn., five days later. “In the timber, we were not aware of how serious things were. But when [the ATC] said get off the trail, that was enough for me.” He left the trail with almost 350 miles behind him. Catherine Turgy, who lives in Montreal, Canada, also heeded the call. She was 109 miles into her thruhike when she left the trail and flew home via the eerily empty Atlanta airport. “I was shocked to see the airport empty. I thought maybe I was in the wrong terminal, that they were doing renovations.” At customs, when Turgy explained where she’d been and why she was traveling to Canada, the agent felt so bad for her she wanted to give Turgy a hug but couldn’t because of the virus. The pandemic stopped Jim MacKay’s thru-hike before it even began. MacKay had given notice at his job, which ended March 12, and had his gear packed and by the door, ready for a March 27 departure that never came. “The universal feeling is disappointment. I feel for everybody in the class of 2020 that wanted to go and didn’t.” MacKay said with trail towns closed and no shuttles, the possibility of resupply seemed impossible, not to mention the community impact. “I didn’t feel like I could possibly justify spreading this disease to Appalachian towns. Hell,

they don’t even have his own reaction and "The hiking healthcare to start with, the divisiveness that community is let alone healthcare to has emerged. “It breaks generally the take care of this.” my heart, because most cooperative But not everybody the hiking community group I’ve ever stayed off the trail. “The is generally the most encountered. On thru-hikers didn’t totally cooperative group I’ve stop,” said Mike Hill, the trail everybody ever encountered. On commissioner of Carter is equal. Hikers are the trail everybody is County, Tennessee, equal. Hikers are famous famous for having which includes Roan for having a terrific sense a terrific sense of Mountain, a town that of community. But now community. But calls itself Tennessee’s there is a huge schism.” outdoor playground. His own judgment of now there is a “Many continued even those who chose to stay huge schism." though there was the on the trail, McDonald directive to come off the said, violates one of the trail, because thru-hikers are rebel main mantras of the A.T., hike your hellions.” Where permitted by state own hike, which encourages hikers to regulations, some local businesses acknowledge that everybody’s journey chose to stay open, trying to provide is different and others’ choices deserve safe service to those continuing on. respect rather than judgment. Still, he Roan Mountain’s new tourism slogan, doesn’t abide those who disregarded “We’ll see ya when you get here!”, the greater good in favor of their own reflects the town’s desire, Hill said, to agenda and draws a parallel to the continue to welcome visitors seeking current reckoning with racism, saying outdoor recreation. “We’ve got all the that hikers who continued on “need to room in the world to social distance.” check their privilege. I can’t help but Carl McDonald is frustrated by guess that people of color would never the hikers who continued. “I think be able to get away with what these it’s spectacularly selfish behavior to hikers are doing by defying orders and put yourself above others and stay sneaking around law enforcement on on the trail.” But he struggles with closed trails.”

Maybe Next Year

M A N Y T H WA R T E D T H R U - H I K E R S H O P E T O T R Y AGAIN IN 2021.

The pandemic has destroyed our best laid plans and challenged us to come up with new ways to persist and deal with continuing disappointment. When it comes to the life-changing experience of thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail, it’s hard to let the dream die. Some aspiring A.T. hikers haven’t given up on 2020. Between July 1, when Baxter State Park, home

of Mt. Katahdin, re-opened and July 17, 72 thru-hikers began southbound journeys, taking their chances on a late-start thru-hike whose last few months will surely be filled with challenging winter conditions. Those who stayed behind are weighing 2021. The ATC said they would certify 2020 hikers who exited

SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

C AT H E R I N E T U R G Y H I K E D 1 0 9 M I L E S B E F O R E L E AV I N G T H E T R A I L A N D FLYING HOME TO CANADA.

HYDRATION DAY HIKING

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

the trail this year before A.T. and the people "As much as I March 31 and returned to and the experience, loved the A.T. and complete it once it was I fear that 2021 will the people and the be overcrowded. If safe to do so, even if that experience, I fear time is next year. After it’s overcrowded, you that 2021 will be hearing that, McDonald don’t want to be one knew he would go of the humans among overcrowded. If back. “Provided the trail 60 at the tent site. It’s it’s overcrowded, opens next spring, on gross, and it destroys you don’t want March 25, the same day the trail.” She is to be one of the I walked off, I intend to considering the Pacific humans among step back on at Erwin Crest Trail, which limits 60 at the tent site. Tennessee and continue the number of hikers, that journey north. That or possibly a lessIt’s gross, and it saves me a month of crowded southbound destroys the trail." winter and some brutal A.T. thru-hike. hills and mountains that I’ve already For MacKay, a helicopter pilot who paid dues for.” became fascinated with the trail over Others aren’t so sure. Back in two decades ago when he was in Canada, Turgy, who’s been captivated college, it’s taken time to work past with the trail ever since she met his initial frustration. “After the 100th a woman thru-hiking solo in New person told me ‘the trail will be there Hampshire’s White Mountain, held next year,’ I wanted to punch them,” hope through the spring that the said MacKay, who has found contract borders would reopen and she could work for the next several months. His return to the U.S. to resume her hike. wife encouraged him “to be authentic But in late May, when the Canadian to his goal,” and he hopes to find a few government extended the border good days of weather toward the end closure another month, she realized of March 2021 to set off again—if it’s that her A.T. thru-hike would not safe to do so. “My biggest fear right happen this season and decided now is that next March nothing looks instead to hike the Quebec National substantially different. None of us Trail. She remains unsure of her plans know what the world will look like in 8 for next year. “As much as I loved the months.”

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y 15-year-old son, Kayden, noses his bike onto the Puzzler trail from the roughly 3,000-foot ridgeline overlooking Massanutten Resort’s Western Slope area. The 1.1-mile-long black-diamond quickly gets down to business. A chute of deceptively smooth singletrack leads to a series of bouldery stairsteps that release into a big, switchback berm and a long downhill run punctuated by rock hops and small drops. We swoop left around a mature oak tree, enter a ravine, and discover the Puzzler’s namesake feature: a hundred-yard-long, doubletrack-wide bridge made of huge flat stones. It descends through a boulder field with steep, sheer drops to the right. Treetops blur by and I realize Kayden’s really pushing it. Then we bank into another ravine, where a flowy downhill plunge brings more speed. Ahead, a tree splits the trail. I avoid what looks to be a stone runway for a serious jump and go right. Glancing portside reveals Kayden’s front tire sailing through the air a foot above my head. He lands it smooth, hooting like an adrenaline junky on a bender. Who is this kid and where is my son? I’d faint of astonishment, but am too busy gassing the pedals— he’s caught Evel Knievel disease and will at any moment bash his brains out on a tree! That said, the enthusiasm is infectious. We blaze into the mile-long Special K trail and shred the first of its long, high berms. Something in the way Kayden bobs and weaves makes me want to pass R I D I N G T R A I L S N E A R S TA U N T O N , VA . P H O T O B Y S A G E L ATA N E

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and leave him in a wake of dust like a runner-up chump. I look for an opening. He pedals harder. It goes on like this until we reach the bottom. “Dude, that was awesome,” he pants, turning up the gravel shuttle road and commencing the .8-mile hike-a-bike to the top. “What’s got into you?” I ask. He’s always been a fairly timid rider, especially on unfamiliar slopes. What’s more, he detests uphill pedaling. At this point, he typically invents an ailment and v-lines for the lower parking lot, abandoning me to a lonely and guilt-ridden last run. “This bike makes my old one look like junk,” says Kayden. Up to now, he thought “mountain biking was kinda blah. But riding this bike, I see why you’re so about it. It’s actually mad fun.” Aha! I was so absorbed in convincing him to come along and getting his mind blown by the thrash-fest I’d forgotten: This was his maiden park ride on a dual-suspension rig. Though he’d technically inherited my 2016 Specialized Camber when I upgraded to an Alchemy Nine7Five last spring, this was our first legit outing. He’d previously been riding a 2014 Scott Aspect hardtail. It was a quality bike (and brought a $650 price tag), but was ultimately unfit for the Virginia Blue Ridge. Its climbing gear was a joke; relatively skinny tires with tubes led to frequent flats; its geometry felt antiquated and clunky; and big air was a no-no. The list goes on. U P G R A D I N G M O U N TA I N B I K E S H A S M A D E R I D I N G S I N G L E T R A C K A F A M I L Y A F F A I R F O R T H E A U T H O R . P H O T O B Y S A G E L A TA N E

My elation is bruised by regret: I’d attributed his habit of consta-griping during rides to a disdain for tough cardiovascular exercise and the fact he’d rather be skateboarding with his bros. Had I known it’d yield such a positive reaction, I would’ve shelled out the cash ($1,650, new) for a second Camber years ago.

parlay the interest, I surprised her with a new Trek Roscoe 24. It has mid-fat, 2.8-inch tires to absorb bumps and an eight-gear, wide-range cassette and trigger shifter that facilitate easier climbing; disc brakes offer predictable and reliable stopping power. She was overjoyed at the unveiling, so I suggested a daddy-daughter trial run: a curated hat day at Massanutten proved revolutionary. medley of wooded park trails. “Like, 90 percent Kayden started going out of his way to downhill,” I promised—followed by smooth-riding suggest new ride spots—feature-rich parks bike lanes into downtown for curbside ice cream. at nearby resorts like Bryce and Snowshoe That afternoon, I watched in amazement as Zoe in particular. But he doesn’t balk at afternoon purposefully steered over jump-like whoops, tried spins through trails in, say, the George Washington her hand at naturally banked curves, and laughed National Forest at Reddish Knob, either. We’ve gone as she dabbed to maintain balance. She charged from misadventures à la Clark Griswold to mutually climbs with unprecedented determination and enjoyable father-son experiences, essentially made it through them without walking. As her trust overnight. in Roscoe grew, so did the speed with which she The success led me to consider a similar approach approached downhill sections. It was as if the bike with my nine-year-old daughter, Zoe. Like Kayden, had transformed her brain. Fear and apprehension she' s a fan of action-oriented outdoor recreation like were erased by the unmistakable symptoms of skiing, kayaking, river snorkeling, and bouldering, stage-one MTB addiction! but hadn’t warmed to mountain biking. Revisiting Exiting the shadowy woods, we took a quick green-level singletrack in local parks always ended breather and a sip of water. Her face was plastered the same: Her peeved and me apologetically pushing with a perma-grin that was one-part pride, one-part two bikes back to the car. As such, replacing her confidence, many parts good time. She pointed to hand-me-down Mongoose with a real-deal mountain my gloves and informed me she’d need a pair of her bike seemed like a waste of $450. own to avoid blisters. The pandemic helped change that. Afternoon “Especially if I’m gonna try that crazy stuff where rides exploring side streets in our home city of you and Kayden ride,” she says. And just like that, Staunton, Va., became an evening staple. Zoe we went from backyard greenways to talking about quickly became more adventurous. She looked for tackling trails in one of the state’s three IMBA Ride shortcuts through wooded lots, powerline clearings, Centers. “What do you think, would that be fun to abandoned alleys, and down grassy hills. Hoping to try next?” SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 43

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Situated among the Appalachian Plateau and Allegheny Mountains and bordered by the Potomac River, Allegany County is a scenic biking destination in the ‘Mountain Side of Maryland.’ A convenient drive from major regional cities, including Washington, D.C., Baltimore, and Pittsburgh, you will find plenty to do in your saddle and off. A quarter of Allegany County is preserved as public land, giving riders plenty of options to choose from. Bike the trails around Lake Habeeb, known for some of the bluest water in the state, at Rocky Gap State Park. Hang out on the park’s beaches or take a boat out on the water for a change of scenery. Green Ridge State Forest offers more than 80 miles of trail for hikers and bikers to discover. More experienced riders will enjoy the Green Ridge Mountain Biking Trail, a 12.5-mile circuit made up of mostly singletrack. Additionally, two internationally recognized trail systems meet in Allegany County to give you countless riding options. Head north from Cumberland, Md. on The Great Allegheny Passage, a 150-mile rail trail that finishes in Pittsburgh, Penn. Or take the C&O Canal Towpath 184.5 miles south to Washington, D.C. on one of the most visited National Parks in the country. October 2020 marks the 170th

Anniversary of the completion of Paw Paw Tunnel and the 50 miles of the C&O Canal to Cumberland, Md. If you are looking to rent a bike or need a quick tune up, Cumberland Trail Connection is conveniently located where the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal meet. They also oﬀer shuttles along the two trails. Get Out and Play! Outﬁtters has something for everyone, from kayak and canoe rentals and

Nestled between the Blue Ridge and Allegheny mountains, bike the rolling hills and pastoral farmlands of Shenandoah County, Va. Route 11, known as The Old Valley Pike, takes you through six small, historic towns filled with restaurants, shops, and galleries. Discover farmers markets, berry farms, a covered bridge, and the North Fork of the Shenandoah River as you bike the backroads. If you are looking for trails, take the ski lift up the mountain at Bryce Resort for a day of downhill riding. Backcountry experts will love the Virginia Mountain Bike Trail, a continuous off-road mountain biking trail linking eight major trail systems in the George Washington and Jefferson National Forests. The trail covers 480 miles and climbs 65,000 feet on mostly singletrack. Finish your adventure with a stop at one of the five breweries or eight wineries in the area for a refreshing drink and views of the mountains. At the end of the day, check into the Hopewell House Bike and Bed for a twist on the traditional bed and breakfast with ample storage for bicycles, pick up bike rentals, and a small shop for “on your own” minor repairs. VisitShenandoahCounty.com

Bryce Bike Park, VA

Just two hours west of Washington, D.C., get away to Bryce Bike Park in the mountains surrounding Basye, Va. Since the park’s inception in 2013, Bryce has been growing its reputation as a well rounded mountain biking destination for all skill levels. The mountain oﬀers 10 lift accessed trails ranging from beginner to advanced. Gravity Logic, the company behind the initial design, made a return to Basye this spring to help the park expand into new terrain oﬀ the backside of the mountain and plans to return in the fall to continue with the expansion project.

bryce bike park, va With Great North Mountain looming in the distance, the area has something for those who enjoy exploring backcountry singletrack over the lift accessed terrain. Even if biking isn’t your thing, the area boasts a network of local hiking trails. Or take the hour long drive across the valley for a day in Shenandoah National Park. When the heat becomes too much to bear, Lake Laura provides a refreshing reprieve from the sun just a couple miles from the main resort facilities. Cap oﬀ the day with a refreshing beverage and meal at the base of the mountain in the Copper Kettle or venture over to the Basye Brew Hollow. BryceResort.com

Rockingham County, VA

In the heart of the Shenandoah Valley, bounded by two magniﬁcent mountain ranges and the impressive Shenandoah River, Rockingham County, Va. is a must see destination that boasts diverse biking opportunities, a thriving cultural scene, vibrant and inviting small towns, numerous historical attractions, and farm-to-table dining opportunities. Situated just two hours from D.C. and minutes from the George Washington National Forest and Shenandoah National Park, its central location makes it an easy destination for a day, weekend, or week-long trip. The area is designated a “Bronze Level Bicycle Friendly Community” by the League of American Bicyclists for its mix of familyfriendly road riding and challenging mountain biking. The George Washington National Forest is the crown jewel of the region with several hundred miles of backcountry trails and trail projects that have been built and optimized for mountain biking. Make sure to check out Narrowback Mountain, Lookout Mountain, and Wolf Ridge trails while you are out there. A biking trip to Rockingham County wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Massanutten Resort. As one of only two lift-accessible mountain bike parks in the state, the lower and upper lifts take riders up the mountain so they can enjoy the rocky terrain

rockingham county, va on the way down. Additionally, the Western Slope Trails offer more than 30 miles of a dense trail network. Bikers of all abilities should take advantage of the progressive trails from beginner to advanced. Experienced riders should check out the Massanutten Ridge Trail for excellent views of the mountains and resort. Stop by Mole Hill Bikes in Dayton for all of your bike needs while in town, including accessories and repairs, or the Elkton Appalachian Trail Outfitters for any gear you need to stay happy and healthy out on the trail. Fill the rest of your visit with kayaking and tubing the river, exploring the natural wonders at Grand Caverns and Endless Caverns, and sampling a taste of the local scene, including farm fresh eateries and craft drinks. At the end of the day, rest up at one of the historic bed and breakfasts, quaint inns, or Massanutten Resort before another day outside. With over 177,000 acres of National Park and National Forest land, you are sure to find something new every day of the year when you discover your next adventure in Rockingham County. VisitRockingham.com

Virginia’s Blue Ridge

Find an adventure that ﬁts your speed when you visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge, the only IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center on the East Coast. With over 400 miles of mountain biking trails, riders of all abilities can experience America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital. Start oﬀ at Mill Mountain Park in Roanoke’s city limits, one of the best urban parks

franklin county, va

PHOTO BY MATT ROSS — FRANKLIN COUNTY PARKS & RECREATION

Shenandoah County, VA

PHOTO BY ANDREW DEVIER -SCOTT

shuttles to guided adventures, archery, and escape rooms. When you are done on your bike, check out the other trails in the area for a refreshing taste of the mountains. The Ice Cream Trail features eight stops with menus full of sweet treats, including seasonal, homemade ice cream ﬂavors and specialty sundaes. Drive the Mountain Maryland Tap and Pour Craft Beverage Tour for a roundup of the area’s best wineries, breweries, and distilleries. After a long day outside, grab a glass of your favorite drink while you enjoy the mountains of Maryland. Get away and ride all day in Allegany County, the ‘Mountain Side of Maryland.’ MDMountainSide.com

salem, va

Giles County, va the best places to ride in the area. For some off road riding, follow the Mary Ingles Trail along the New River through an undeveloped area. Mountain bikers will find more than 20 miles of technical singletrack and accessible doubletrack at Mill Creek Nature Park, plus three waterfalls and a native trout stream, in addition to another 22 miles of trail at Mountain Lake Wilderness. When you’re done on your bike, Giles County offers 37 miles of the New River Water Trail, 62 miles of the Appalachian Trail, 92 square miles of Jefferson National Forest, and five small towns to enjoy. GilesCounty.org

PHOTO BY SAM DEAN — VISIT VIRGINIA’S BLUE RIDGE

Russell County, VA

in the country. Make sure to view the iconic Roanoke Star while you’re at the top before riding ten miles of intermediate and advanced trails down the mountain. Beginners will enjoy exploring Franklin County’s Waid Recreation Park, including several ADA accessible trails, winding paths along the Pigg River, and a jump line trail. Take your riding to the next level at Falling Creek Park with a skills loop and pump track to hone your technique. You could spend a few days riding the multiuse, singletrack trails at Carvins Cove. Less than ten miles from Downtown Salem, there are more than 60 miles of fire roads, cross county singletrack, and downhill trails to keep you entertained. For some backcountry riding, head to North Mountain in the Jefferson National Forest. Known locally as “Dragon’s Back,” ride the ridge of the mountain on challenging singletrack. After a full day of riding, visit Downtown Salem to kick back, relax, and try some local craft brews. Located just off Hanging Rock Battlefield Trail, Parkway Brewing Company offers a rotating selection of beers brewed and bottled right in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. There’s a little bit of history in every glass at Olde Salem Brewing Company and

something for every beer drinker to enjoy, particularly those with a penchant for sours. Just off the Blue Ridge Parkway, discover nine miles of trails by the Roanoke River at Explore Park. While you’re there, check out additional paddling, camping, and ziplining opportunities for a full day of adventure. If you’re looking to explore the whole area, the Roanoke Valley Greenways offer more than 30 miles of paved trails connecting public parks, the river, and downtown destinations. No matter what kind of terrain you’re looking to ride, stop by Roanoke Mountain Adventures for bike rentals while you are in town. Or rent a kayak, tube, standup paddleboard, or crash pad for a different mountain adventure. Downshift Bikes &

Brews is your one stop shop for all things bikes, coﬀee, and beer in Downtown Roanoke. They recently started oﬀering e-bike rentals for those looking to get around the city. VisitVBR.com VisitSalemVA.com

Giles County, VA

Tucked in southwest Virginia with easy access from major cities and interstates, Giles County, Va. is a biking destination for cyclists of all skill levels. Road cyclists, mountain bikers, competitive riders, and leisure riders can all find their adventure in Giles. In the fall, the roadways and surrounding mountains burst with colors enticing you to explore this small Americana hometown. Ride the Bluefield Century Loop for one of the flattest and fastest routes in the region or take on the Elgood Loop for long, steep climbs and switchbacks. Check out the New River Valley Bicycle Association for more information on

russell County, va

Russell County, a rugged and mountainous area of southwestern Virginia, is one of the most beautiful and biologically rich areas in the world. Discover all the county has to offer as you bike the TransAmerica Trail along Route 80. While the full bicycle route is more than 4,200 miles from Astoria, Ore. to Yorktown, Va., you can enjoy a slice of backroad riding in Russell County. When planning your trip, be sure to stay at the Biker Hostel in Elk Garden, provided by the Elk Garden United Methodist Church. Here, bikers can rest, spend the night, and enjoy the quiet, beautiful stillness that Elk Garden offers. Bikers are welcome to enjoy whatever is in the kitchen and the cabinet. Park your bicycles under the picnic shelter and prepare your sleeping pallets wherever you feel comfortable, inside or out, with a cold shower located behind the parsonage. Don’t forget to sign the bikers’ log as one of the thousands of cyclists who comes through the county on this route. When you’re done on the bike, experience the biodiversity southwestern Virginia has to offer at one of the wildlife management areas or preserves in the area, including Clinch Mountain Wildlife Management Area. ExperienceRussell.com •

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THE GOODS

FALL CYCLING

Turn the cranks THE WEATHER IS COOLING DOWN AND IT’S TIME TO GET OUT AND EXPLORE VIA TWO WHEELS. HERE’S THE BEST IN GRAVEL, MOUNTAIN, AND COMMUTING BIKES AND ACCESSORIES TO GET YOU OUT AND AWAY DURING THESE DAYS OF SOCIAL DISTANCING. B Y D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

BIKES Liv

Devote 2 Women-specific bike builder Liv hops into the gravel game with this reasonably priced machine that can handle everything from gravel racing to bikepacking adventures. The aluminum frame and composite fork feature female geometry that allow for all-day riding and precise handling on gnarly rides. Internal cable routing protects componentry from dusty roads, and it has the clearance to run big 45c tires. $1,150; liv-cycling.com

LIV DEVOTE 2

run 29 x 2.2 inch tires and bomb some singletrack if you are so inclined. Redesigned geometry ensures it can haul a large frame bag, and you can order the bike with a wide range of build options, including a choice of steel or titanium frame, along with custom paint jobs and frame sizes. The basic GRX comp build gives you a steel frame and carbon fork along with Shimano GRX shifting and Vittoria Mezcal, 29 x 2.1, tubeless tires. $4,699, GRX Comp build; reebcycles.com

Pivot

Switchblade Want one mountain bike that can handle it all? The incredibly well-balanced Switchblade has the guts to handle the bike park, but it’s svelte and nimble enough to climb singletrack like a champ. Credit that performance to the dw-link suspension that engages to climb and sucks up the hits, as well as a compact frame design. It also has the ability to run both 29-inch and 27.5inch wheels. That versatility

won the Switchblade a 2020 Peak gear award in our sister publication Elevation Outdoors. $6,799 and up; pivotcycles.com

Priority

Embark E-bike We are big fans of Priority’s no-hassle, belt-drive commuter bikes and the brand continues to impress with its new electric model. Ringing in at an affordable price for an e-bike,

the Embark sports comfortable geometry that allows you to pedal upright, as well as a bit more aggressively, and plush 27.5-inch tubeless tires that take the chatter out of bumpy rides. The Bosch motor and battery keep charged for about 50 miles of riding time. $3,999; prioritybicycles.com

TerraTrike

Rambler Not everyone can handle

REEB THE SAM'S PANTS

PIVOT SWITCHBLADE

GIANT REVOLT ADVANCED 0

PRIORITY EMBARK E-BIKE

Giant

Revolt Advanced 0 This gravel machine is the perfect steed for those who want to race dirt—or just train hard in the hills. With a composite frame and fork, the bike weighs in under 20 pounds and can suck up the bumps of those rocky rides. Moreso, the Contact XR D-Fuse handlebar and D-Fuse seatpost work to ease impact on rutted forest roads, and the bike can handle 45c tires for big bikepacking forays. $3,700; giant-bicycles.com

Reeb

The Sam’s Pants Designed specifically for the rigors and abuse of bikepacking, this beast features the clearance to 50

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

an upright bike, but that doesn’t mean they can’t grind gravel. This recumbent trike can get anyone anywhere and is a blast to ride. In fact, the three tires give you even more stability and power when cruising up long ascents and the nimble handling can run the gauntlet of a tricky downhill. $1,799; terratrike.com

ACCESSORIES Thousand

Chapter MIPS A helmet and taillight in one, this innovative lid gives you the option to use that light on the back of your helmet or on your ride. MIPS tech helps lessen the chance of a concussion should you crash, and Thousand’s nifty lock system lets you run a cable right through the helmet. $135; explorethousand.com

Machines for Freedom

Indigo Print Jersey Comfy and moisture-wicking, this performance jersey flashes some low-key style at the starting line. But the real winner here is the fit. Founder Jenn Kriske created a cycling apparel brand that caters to all body types so everyone can feel comfortable out on a ride. $178; machinesforfreedom.com

Pearl Izumi

Summit Knee Guards A little extra protection can make a big difference when you go down. Forget those big balky knee pads: Built with four-way-stretch Cordura, these light, sleek guards don’t get in the way of your riding but could save those precious patellae should you take a spill. $85; pearlizumi.com

Shimano

MT7 Hikeable Mountain Bike Shoe Racing shoes are great … for races. But all too often when you are out mountain biking you just need shoes that can handle the indignities of hike-a-bike or maybe a little exploring when you stop to take a break. With a dial-in BOA system and sturdy outsole, these kicks are tough and comfy whether you are pedaling or walking. $140; bike.shimano.com

Sena

PEARL IZUMI SUMMIT KNEE GUARD

R1 Evo Bike riding can be social again without compromising the need to be socially distant. The hands-free voice connection in this helmet

not only allows you to talk to other riders—you can also make and pick up phone calls or listen to FM radio. $159; sena.com

Big Agnes

Copper Spur HV UL2 Bikepack Designed specifically for bikepacking this 3-pound, two-person tent fits the short spaces of cycle-mounted bags and compresses down into a 6-inch by 12-inch bag. Once deployed it’s quite spacious at 29 square feet and a vestibule gives you a spot for muddy shoes and clothes. $470; bigagnes.com

MACHINES FOR FREEDOM INDIGO PRINT JERSEY

Kuat

NV 2.0 This hitch-mount bike rack makes it easy to haul your ride and even provides the functionality of a repair stand on the back to work on your bike in the field. A foot-operated lever makes it simple to extend or fold up the rack, and adjustable trays mean you can fit a wide range of bikes and tire sizes with no hassle. $689; kuatracks.com

KUAT NV 2.0

THOUSAND CHAPTER MIPS

SHIMANO MT7 HIKEABLE MOUNTAIN BIKE SHOE

TERRATRIKE RAMBLER

BIG AGNES COPPER SPUR HV UL2 BIKEPACK

MOUNTAIN LIVING

THE JUNKMAN HE WEARS OVERALLS AND COLLECTS SCRAP METAL—AND KNOWS MORE ABOUT THE FOREST THAN ANY ADRENALINE JUNKIE DRIVING PAST BY WILL HARLAN

anny Barnett lives next to a one-lane bridge at the entrance to Pisgah National Forest, where each day, SUVs loaded with bikes and boats drive by. He waves at each one that passes. Danny looks after the one-lane bridge, weedeating alongside it in the summer, filling potholes in the winter. Usually, though, Danny is working in his junkyard, littered with broken washing machines and rusted tractor parts. For years, I had driven by Danny’s junkyard on my way to the trailhead. Eager to get to the forest for my ride or run, I zipped past Danny, windows down, tunes blasting. Sometimes I forgot to wave back. Then a few years ago, Danny was fishing from the bridge, and I rolled down my window to chat. It turned out that Danny knew more about the forest than anyone motoring past. I have stopped to talk with Danny many times since. Danny is a church-going Baptist who wears overalls and is missing a few teeth, yet he is one of the most accomplished outdoor explorers I know. He knows every holler and creek in the mountains that surround his homestead. Danny has been roaming the forest since he was five. He knows where to find secluded fishing holes better than any guide, and he can hike steeper and deeper into the mountains than most backpackers. He bushwhacks across ridgelines to find an old stand of chestnuts or a patch of ginseng, reading the cartography with his eyes and memory rather than with a map or GPS. Danny has spent his whole life in these mountains. He grows most of his own food using heirloom seeds 52

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

that his family and neighbors have passed down for generations. Most of his food is grown organically, although he doesn’t call it that. Danny is not a tree hugger; in fact, he cuts them down regularly. Nor is he a vegetarian. He doesn’t belong to any environmental group. He’s never seen Forks Over Knives or any eco-documentaries by Leonardo DiCaprio, though he knows a lot about climate and where his food comes from. He slaughters and butchers his own meat. He heats his house with wood selectively harvested from the forest. Though he has never heard of permaculture, he knows how to use what’s available: manure from his cows fertilizes the gardens; ash from his woodstove is used to make soap; rocks from the fields become a dry-stacked stone wall. For decades, he has been meticulously sorting through discarded appliances and reselling scrap metal. He repurposes and repairs, and in so doing, goes way beyond the most militant recycler. Unlike some well-intentioned environmentalists who buy carbon offsets and renewable energy credits to continue buying and doing everything they want, Danny has lived simply, sustainably, and selfsufficiently his entire life. Living simply doesn’t mean living easily. The simple life means dawn-to-dusk days of backbreaking labor: hauling manure, splitting firewood, digging fencepost holes. It means eating only what’s in season, which can seem dull and repetitive to our supermarket stomachs. It means staying put. His carbon footprint is negligible. He doesn’t buy much. He fixes everything himself. He doesn’t travel. He is content to spend his days on the farm or in the forest. “I don’t need to go anywhere,” he says. ”There’s no other place I’d rather be.” There are probably others like Danny in these hills. They don’t call themselves eco-anything, but they are greener than most environmentalists. They’re not members of nonprofits, but they give all of their surplus harvest to neighbors in need. They’re not living in a commune or eco-village, but they are bartering food, labor, and skills in their own self-

sustaining community economy. On my way to the nearest trail or river, I have probably driven by many old-timers like Danny who know and love the forest even more deeply than I do. It’s just that I rarely take the time to stop and listen. I don’t want to be just an adrenaline-fueled adventurist parachuting in to my favorite forest. I want to know the land as deeply and intimately as Danny does. I still have a lot to learn about what I need—and what I don’t. The trailhead is often filled with clean-shaven suburbanites wearing sunglasses and Spandex, their roof racks loaded with the latest gear. Danny walks into the forest with only a water bottle and some fishing hooks, but he can hike and camp for days— gathering wild edibles and catching trout. He can name every species of tree in the forest and identify an animal by its tracks, but he never once read a guidebook. “I just pay attention is all,” Danny says. We mountain bikers and trail runners may know a few narrow ribbons of trail through the forest, but usually we are blasting across the terrain, checking our Strava splits along the way. We rarely take the time to explore the forest beyond the well-groomed paths, where bears and old trees take refuge. Danny is a lot like the bridge he fishes from. He straddles the junkyard and the wilderness. He connects the city slickers driving past to the rural folk that have looked after the forest for generations. He waves at everyone who drives by, no matter who they are or where they come from. He accepts anyone’s junk. On our way to the pristine forest, he deals with the clutter we seek to leave behind. At age 76, Danny has debilitating arthritis from decades of manual labor. He once rolled a tractor on top of himself and permanently injured his back. He lost two fingers from his right hand in a logging accident. Danny feels the changing seasons in his bones, he told me on my last visit. His wife is battling cancer. Nearly all of his kin have passed. “Life goes by,” he said. “We’re only here a few days and then we’re gone.”

PHOTO COURTESY GETTY IMAGES

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TRAIL MIX

NEW TUNES

Fall Music Preview

There,” their first album in six years, this month. After a restorative hiatus, the indie roots-rock mainstays sound rejuvenated on tracks like the soulful, dance-ready “It Ain’t Easy.” Own Words: “I’m really proud of our body of work, but especially proud of where everybody has gotten to now,” front man Matthew Logan Vasquez, said in a statement, admitting the 15-year-old band really needed the break before being able to reunite for recording sessions in Texas. “I have a lot of hope for us. There’s a lot of raw honesty in the music. It’s a record for right now, instead of pandering to the past. It’s the next step.”

FOUR UPCOMING MUSTHEAR ALBUMS BY JEDD FERRIS

LYDIA LOVELESS

T itle: Da u g h t e r Release D at e : S e p t e m ber 2 5 Alt-country rocker Lydia Loveless is returning with her first new album in four years, channeling the emotional upheaval of a divorce and road exhaustion into the songs on her latest effort, “Daughter.” Following a period a deep of reflection and a move to North Carolina, where she slowly crafted her new album’s 10 tracks, Loveless traveled to Chicago to record at Wilco’s studio, The Loft. The result features Loveless at her most candid, especially in the lead single “Love is Not Enough,” which laments a draining relationship. Own Words: “For the first time I felt completely insecure about what I’d made,” she explains. “But recording brought things back into focus. I couldn’t back out of playing and explaining my songs and vision.”

THE WAR AND TREATY

T itle: “He ar t s To wn” Release D at e : S e p t e m ber 2 5 Coming off the lauded 2018 breakout effort “Healing Tide,” husband-and-wife duo Michael Trotter and Tonya BlountTrotter are returning with another set of uplifting gospel-rock highlighted by the couple’s intimate and energetic vocal interplay. The new effort shifts between roots-based styles, from the classic soul of the heartfelt love songs “Five More Minutes” to the haunting rock dirge “Beautiful,” which features an appearance by Jason Isbell on guitar. The album’s title comes from the nickname the group has for their loyal fan base. Own Words: “Hearts Town is a neighborhood strictly made up of people who all share the same kind of heart: hearts that love, hearts that heal, hearts that don’t see division,” says

NEW COVERS

T H E WA R A N D T R E AT Y ' S N E W A L B U M , " H E A R T S TOWN," COMES OUT THIS MONTH. PHOTO BY D AV I D M C C L I S T E R .

Michael. “There’s all different types of people within that neighborhood, but they’re still somehow all working together—which is exactly the kind of town we want to live in.”

STEEP CANYON RANGERS T i t l e: "A r m i n A rm" Rel e a s e Da t e: O ctober 1 6

North Carolina bluegrass aces Steep Canyon Rangers have been on a prolific streak, following up last year’s two releases—the live record “North Carolina Songbook” and collaborative “Best Still Moses,” which found the band working with the Asheville Symphony and the R&B outfit Boyz II Men. “Arm in Arm,” the band’s thirteenth album, is a studio set of 11 new originals, recorded in Nashville with producer Brandon Bell (Zac Brown, John Prine). The Grammy-

winning pickers keep stretching their acoustic borders, embracing anthemic country-rock in standout “Every River.” Own words: “The record is all over the place. It captures a lot of different layers of the Rangers and some new layers,” lead singer and guitarist Woody Platt told the Asheville Citizen-Times back in July.

DELTA SPIRIT

Ti tl e: “What Is There” Rel eas e Date: S eptember Delta Spirit had big plans for their long-awaited reunion, including a lengthy tour and high-profile festival appearances. The shows will have to wait until (hopefully) 2021, but in the meantime the band will release “What Is

Late last month, two covers-based albums surfaced that reinterpret familiar material in new ways. Fruit Bats—the performing moniker of indie folk singer-songwriter Eric D. Johnson—just dropped a full reboot of the Smashing Pumpkins’ 1994 landmark “Siamese Dream.” Johnson plays all of the instruments on the record, and in his hands the album loses its angsty fuzz in favor of dreamy acoustic arrangements. Most lovely is his take on the ubiquitous radio hit “Today,” which sways effortlessly as a pastoral folk waltz. On August 28, flat-picking guitar whiz and introspective singer-songwriter Molly Tuttle released a full LP of various songs by some of her favorite artists called “… But I’d rather be with you.” The title comes from lyrics in the Grateful Dead’s “Standing on the Moon,” which Tuttle imbues with an emotive country lilt, but the eclectic collection features tunes by a wide range of acts, including the Rolling Stones, FKA Twigs, and Harry Styles. Tuttle started the project while sheltering at home in Nashville back in March, and then, as pandemic collaborations go these days, remotely worked with producer Tony Berg (Phoebe Bridgers) and some guest musicians, including Taylor Goldsmith of Dawes and Old Crow Medicine Show’s Ketch Secor. The album’s standout is a delicately futuristic reading of The National’s “Fake Empire,” which replaces the original’s dark piano chords with airy, percussive acoustic guitar, adding an atmospheric, soul-searching layer to the song’s message of apathetic indifference. •

SEPTEMBER 2020 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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