Easy DIY Issue 44 Autumn

AUTUMN 2022

WORKSHOP ■ UPDATE ■ MAINTAIN ■ LIVING

WWW.EASYDIY.CO.ZA

A SE P OW E R T O F TO PAGE 14OLS

PROJECTS > TIPS TO ENSURE YOUR HOME RENOVATION RUNS SMOOTHLY > MUST-DO PROJECTS FOR IN AND AROUND THE HOME

Autumn Workshop HOW TO CREATE MITERED JOINTS

BESPOKE FURNITURE MAKEOVER

TAKING CARE OF YOUR WATER TANK CHOOSING THE RIGHT CIRCULAR SAW

R40 incl VAT

9 772221 941042 9 772221 941042 ISSUE 44 • 2022

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Getting creative with furniture redesigns

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DIY 101 BATHROOM ACCESSORIES l GARDEN TABLE l HOW TO REFINISH A BOOKCASE 2022/02/25 4:24 PM

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ADVERTORIAL

THE INGCO 1 000 VOLT VDE range is here

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he latest additions to the INGCO VDE range of products are the three-piece screwdriver set and the six-piece VDE toolkit. These new additions expand the VDE product family from screwdrivers to pliers.

A critical tool range for any electrician, the INGCO VDE range will ensure that you are safe when working with electricity and on electrical installations. These tools are intended to help prevent injury from electric shock.

Perfect for home improvement enthusiasts to professional electricians, the 1 000 volt three-piece plier set consists of three high-quality VDE pliers: • 180mm VDE Insulated Combination Pliers • 160mm VDE Insulated Diagonal Cutters • 160mm VDE Insulated Long Nose Pliers

The INGCO six-piece VDE tool kit (INGCO-HKIST3061) contains a selection of essential hand tools that include screwdrivers, pliers and cutters. It consists of: • • • • •

125mm VDE Insulated Screwdriver 2x 100mm VDE Insulated Screwdriver (SL4.0 x 100mm and PH2 x 100mm) 7” VDE Insulated Combination Pliers 6” VDE Insulated Diagonal Cutters 100-500VAC Test Pencil

Each product comes with a VDE certificate conforming to the DIN EN 60900 International Standard.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? A VDE-approved tool means that every INGCO VDE product has passed a series of rigorous tests ensuring that the required safety, quality, ergonomics and construction standards have been met.

Scan this QR code to go directly to the INGCO website.

For more information LIKE OUR FACEBOOK PAGE @ingcosouthafrica www.ingco.co.za

The International VDE standard is being increasingly recognised and, due to health and safety regulations, is common in the building trade.

The INGCO VDE range is so varied that only 10 companies in the world can compete with it. Plus, the level of quality and performance at the INGCO price point is highly competitive.

The INGCO brand has grown in leaps and bounds over the last year and is now becoming a household name.

Keep an eye out for the next issue and see how you can continue to expand your INGCO hand tools range. P

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CONTENTS

AUTUMN 2022

42

31

13 REGULARS 2

7

14

EDITORIAL COMMENT If you’ve entered one of our competitions, turn to this page to see if you are a winner.

BITS ‘N’ BOB Must-have products for in and around the home, from leaf blowers to sleek bathroom taps; Colour tips and innovation; All year-round pool maintenance.

WIN! Win your own Makita tool set.

26 DIY 101 26

34

39

FEATURES 16

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MUST-DO HOME PROJECTS Owning a home means never-ending maintenance, fixing up, and sometimes, revamping. Here are some tips and techniques for a couple of simple projects for the home.

RENOVATE OR BUILD Renovating an outdated space in your home or expanding a room not only adds to your enjoyment of the living space, but also the value of your home.

Here are some tips to help you ensure that your project runs smoothly.

FURNITURE MAKEOVER It’s time to get creative and makeover a piece of furniture with your own bespoke look – the question is, which style will you choose?

GARDEN TABLE Build a solid garden table designed to take anything thrown at it NEW-LOOK BOOKCASE Over the years, the humble bookcase has transformed into an important decor piece in any room. Here’s how to recreate your own.

WORKSHOP 42

CHOOSING THE RIGHT CIRCULAR SAW DIY tips on how to make sure you buy the right circular saw and fit it with the correct blade.

44

MITERS Simple techniques and easy-to-use guides to make it easy to create mitered joints that are accurate and fit together tightly using a circular saw.

50 MAINTAIN 47

WATER TANKS Big or small, professionally installed or DIY’ed, water storage tanks need regular maintenance to ensure good quality greywater and the longevity of the tanks.

GUIDE TO 50

FAUX CERAMICS Create your own clay pots and vases using discarded glass and plastic containers.

LIVING 52

HOME SAFETY Great tips on how to ensure your house is safe and secure when you are not around.

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EDITORIAL COMMENT

CHANGING COLOURS

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Published by:

utumn reminds us that change is good. In this issue of EasyDIY we were inspired by colour ... so we’ve put together an array of projects that will see you transform your indoor and outdoor spaces with this in mind.

The Plascon team advises what hues to use for your indoor transformation, and we share some creative makeover tips for bespoke

furniture reinventions.

We also take a look at some much-needed leaf blowers to keep your garden and

outdoor areas neat as a pin, and our tooling experts share how to choose the right circular saw for your needs and provide an easy-to-use guide to create mitered joints.

The projects in this issue of EasyDIY are really easy to do ...

Picasso Headline, a proud division of Arena Holdings (Pty) Ltd Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Postal Address: PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010 easydiy.co.za businessmediamags.co.za

EDITORIAL Content Manager Raina Julies rainaj@picasso.co.za

Raina Julies

Contributors Rod Baker, Gina Hartoog, Alena Hrbkova, Chris Warnes

CONGRATULATIONS TO

OUR WINNERS FROM ISSUE 43 – SUMMER

Copy Editor Brenda Bryden Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne

ART Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson

GARY BEUKES is the winner of a Makita MT Power Tools set (comprising a M4000B Blower, M4301B Jig Saw and M5802B Circular Saw)

Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo Advert Designer Bulelwa Sotashe Cover Image Alena Hrbková/Sunray photo/magazinefeatures.co.za

SALES Project Manager Gavin Payne gavinp@picasso.co.za +27 21 469 2477 I +27 74 031 9774 Sales Consultants Jacqueline Bezuidenhout, Natalie Sanders

PRODUCTION

KUTLOANO STOBBER is the winner of the 106-piece Kraftwerk Toolbox.

Production Editor Shamiela Brenner Advertising Co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne Subscriptions and Distribution Fatima Dramat fatimad@picasso.co.za Distribution On the Dot Printing CTP Printers, Cape Town

MANAGEMENT Management Accountant Deidre Musha Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer

Copyright: Picasso Headline. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for unsolicited material. EasyDIY is published by Picasso Headline. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher.

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP

Bits ‘n’ Bobs

Must-have products for in and around the

HOME

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HEAVY-DUTY TEXTURED WIPES

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THE LEAFJET BLOWER

The WORX Leaf Blower WRX WG543E LEAFJET™ is a complete redesign of the traditional blower. Extremely lightweight and compact when compared to other models in the marketplace, it weighs only 1.3kg. An innovative two-speed design incorporates a venturi to provide maximum speed or maximum air volume, achieved by the use of air amplifier technology.

Simply, it draws air in from outside the tube, creating a greater volume of air to be blown out for higher performance. This also allows for noise dampening, making the LEAFJET one of the quietest high-performance blowers on the market.

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These new ACTION CAN multipurpose textured wipes are designed specifically for professional use. Super absorbent, they lock in all grime and dirt and provide antibacterial protection. The wipes are suitable for removing all greases, oils, sealants, silicon, and paint.

They are quick-drying, odour-free and nonsticky, providing a heavy-duty deep overall clean. TW-90 wipes come in a handy large tub with a unique cut-away lid pull-out dispenser. Each tub contains 100 extra-large wipes.

4 THE CORDLESS ANGLE GRINDER

Festool’s new addition to the 18-volt family is the AGC 18V cordless angle grinder that boasts a durable design and perfect ergonomic features for cutting work.

The AGC 18 is battery-operated and suitable for carpenters, joiners and painters as it can be used to complete cutting tasks and small sanding jobs on construction sites without any cables.

The brushless and maintenance-free EC-TEC motor boasts a smooth start-up function and features additional electronic overload protection. The digital temperature monitoring and motor brake make the machine even safer and more durable. These functions make it easier for users to control the machine, and ensure greater safety while working. The speed of the AGC 18 can be continuously adjusted from 4 500 to 8 500 revolutions per minute, making it possible to adjust it to the working material. A completely sealed motor housing protects the EC motor against dust penetration. These clever innovative features make the AGC 18 extremely robust, reliable and durable.

THE TURBINE

The TURBINE™ Cordless Two Speed Leaf Blower WRX WG547E moves from solid surface sweeping to a full-blown leaf tornado. It features a two-speed control function that allows for light-duty cleaning to full leaf removal on any type of surface.

The TURBINE is a lightweight cordless blower with technology that delivers up to 10 cubic metres per min of air velocity. This takes the job away from that heavy, loud petrol blower and puts it into a lightweight quiet tool that everyone can use. These blowers can do everything from sweeping the driveway and path to piling up leaves.

Key features are the air speed: 88/120 km/h, air volume: 7.6/10 m3/min, lightweight and ergonomic one-hand operation, and hyperstream air nozzle for extra tough conditions.

EasyDIY

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E V SA20%

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP

SUBSCRIBE

1 year of EasyDIY, 4 issues to enjoy for R130 (incl VAT)

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CALL 0860 52 52 00

Make sure you have your bank details handy when you call. Lines are open Monday to Friday, 8am-4pm

TERMS & CONDITIONS n Offer valid for SA residents only. n Subscription activation is subject to payment confirmation.

8

To make bathtime one of the more exciting times of day for the little ones, hansgrohe’s Jocolino children’s shower has a cute and colourful shower head that fits perfectly in a child’s hands, thanks to its narrow handle. It comes in three different fun animal designs – the black and white zebra, the beige lion and the green crocodile. Varying jet types allow you to tailor-make a bathtime experience for each child, providing family fun and comfort.

EasyDIY

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PAMPER YOUR POOCH

Experience a revolution in dog washing with a shower tailored for your pet. The hansgrohe DogShower has three different spray types for gentle cleaning of the paws and other sensitive areas. Adjust it for dirt against legs or a full fur spray with over 74 generous, stroking nozzles to effectively rinse dirt residue and shampoo from the coat while giving your fur-baby a back massage.

With the select button on the handle, you can effortlessly switch between spray types. The integrated water brake is activated when the shower handle is released for a short time, reducing water pressure and ensuring you don’t get wet during the shower session. The targeted leg shower jet removes dirt and you can increase the water pressure by pressing the button on the bottom of the DogShower for “Waterboost”. The paw shower waterjet reaches even those tricky spaces in between and feels good at the same time.

The hansgrohe DogShower is suited to every type of coat and the brush-like spray jets groom and clean at the same time. You can even brush while the jets are on. P

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MAKE BATHTIME FUN TIME

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PAINT KNOW-HOW

Autumn

COLOUR TIPS

Plascon’s Colour Advice team has devised an autumn palette of expressive blues, rich reds and shell-tinted pinks that will help you to shore up memories of beach walks, cliff-path discoveries, and mysterious tidal pools

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

he new seasonal colour collection has been dubbed the Coastal palette. Plascon’s head of marketing, Suvasin Moodley, says that Plascon’s new coastal palette brings both warm and cool elements into your home. He advises that you cocoon in a rosy-hued living room or turn your bedroom into a seaside sanctuary with the richness, ease and dreaminess of this versatile palette.

For free advice on how to use the palette or any other Plascon colours, please contact the Plascon Colour Advice team via email: ColourAdvice@kansaiplascon.co.za 10

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THE PALETTE The rich, inky depths of Plascon Moody Blue (108) and the mid-tone aquatic Plascon Azurbeen (B1-C1-4) bring the timelessness of coastal light to mind, while the light green/blue cast of Plascon Feathery (105) is reminiscent of sea-mist and summer pleasures, bringing a softer touch to your walls.

These evocative hues will do wonders for your living spaces, whether you want to recreate an underwater cave or imagine a life on the ocean waves.

The marine hues are complemented

by Plascon Hot Terracotta (R5-C1-1) – which delivers a powerful enveloping accent – and tonal partner Plascon Walnut Spice (02-C2-2). Recalling sunsets and sea creatures, the warm pink hues lend a note of sensuality to the tranquil palette. The interplay of light and dark shades mimics changeable coastal moods. P

Crack filler

INNOVATION Plascon Micatex, a proudly South African product for over 40 years, introduces Polycell Fine Crack Filler.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

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his Polycell innovation means that Micatex can now securely cover all hairline cracks and help prevent damp – a very common problem on exterior walls – by retarding water seepage … with a 15-year guarantee.

THE FORMULATION Plascon Micatex with Polycell derives its WeatherTough Protection™ from the unique combination of special grades of mica and marble. Tests have shown that the paint film of Plascon Micatex is twice as thick as conventional paints. It also has very low dirt pick-up, ensuring that dirt and dust wash off easily. P

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POOL MAINTENANCE

Bits ‘n’ Bobs

CRYSTAL CLEAR POOLS, even in autumn The experts at Builders share that taking care of your pool doesn’t need to be a seasonal activity

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f you keep up some basic maintenance throughout the year, you’ll find it much easier to keep pools looking pristine. Here are a few tips:

CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER: Having a pool can be low maintenance if you remember to do it regularly.

• The first thing you need to do is check the pool pump, skimmer basket, filter and pool cleaner. Listen for gurgling, look for holes and make sure everything works. If you have a pool cover, be sure to remove it carefully so that any stagnant water on top of it doesn’t affect the pH of your pool. If

you don’t have a pool cover, get one as a matter of urgency.

• Next top up your pool and then test the chemical balances of the water.

The pH levels should be 7.2 to 7.8. The chlorine levels should be 1 to 3ppm and the alkalinity 80 to 125ppm.

Finally the stabiliser should hover around 30ppm and the calcium hardness at 150 to 280ppm. These numbers may seem daunting, but you can take a jug of your pool water to your nearest Builders and they will do the rest for you.

• Once you know your numbers, balance your water’s pH. That may mean doing shock treatment, or just adding a few

sprinkles of chlorine. Again, your advisor at Builders will be able to help.

• Keep your pool water healthy with a regular balance of algicides, balancers and sanitisers.

• Should it turn out that Ninja Turtles do live in your pool or it is beyond saving in some other way then you may just need to drain it and start from scratch again. P

REVIEW: PATTEX no more nails

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attex’s new click & fix 20-dose glue stick (well, they call it a click device) promises to make mounting indoor and outdoor household items easy-breezy … and it doesn’t disappoint at all. This little click device is a great solution for mounting items without needing to drill holes into your wall, and it dries translucent after 48 hours.

Where can you use it?

How to use your click & fix click device

Basically anywhere! It is suitable for use on brick, ceramic, concrete, hardboard, plasterboard, plywood, stone, MDF, wood, metal, uPVC, glass, plastics, painted surfaces, and mirrors.

Pretreatment: The surfaces to be bonded must be clean, free from oils, grease, dust and loose particles and should be dry.

Limitations?

One bonding surface must be porous and not water-resistant.

Wow factor?

Instant grip.

Application: - Just click and fix …

1. Remove the cap and aluminium foil, then press the device until you hear the click.

2. Fix your item on the surface and press firmly. It will be adjustable for a few minutes and then you are done!

WIN!

To win your very own Pattex click & fix glue device, send your name and address to our SMS line.

Watch a tutorial on what your click & fix glue stick can do.

To enter and be included in our Business Media Mags newsletter database, SMS EASYDIY 44 PATTEX 1 followed by your full name, email and physical address to 33089. SMSes cost R1.50 each.

To enter without inclusion in the newsletter, SMS EASYDIY 44 PATTEX 2. SMS errors are billed; free SMSes do not apply.

For full terms and conditions, visit easyDIY.co.za. Competition ends 13 April 2022.

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WIN with Makita

Makita MT Power Tools set (comprising M9204B Random Orbit Sander, M3700B Trimmer and M1902B Planer) per issue to one winner.

Makita’s MT range of standard duty industrial power tools provides the quality you expect from Makita at an affordable price.

Makita MT M9204B Random Orbit Sander

The Makita MT M9204B Random Orbit Sander is one of the most useful tools that a contractor, small business entrepreneur or DIY expert can have in their tool arsenal. The sander is ideal for stripping paint off furniture, preparing new moulding or cleaning up between finish coats. Even metal and composite materials such as solid surface countertops can be smoothed and cleaned. Any rough spots and swirls left by other sanders can effectively be removed with a sanding pad that spins at 12 000 orbits per min.

The Makita MT M9204B is fitted with a dust bag and includes some abrasive paper.

Makita MT M3700B Trimmer

Makita’s MT M3700B Trimmer is of real benefit to readers who do plenty of woodworking projects requiring an easy and effective way to accomplish small routing tasks, as this versatile tool can be operated using only one hand. The transparent plastic base increases visibility of the area you are working on. Plus, it’s lightweight as well as highly manoeuvrable, which makes it all the more appealing.

The MT M3700B has a 530W motor with a standard collect of 6.35mm, using standard router bits (purchased separately), providing you with variety of applications. It has a plunge capacity of 0–42mm, a no-load speed of 35 000 r/min and is supplied with a 2m power cord.

Makita MT M1902B Planer

Makita’s MT M1902B Planer provides reliable performance with a maximum planing depth of 1mm and 9mm rebate. Featuring Makita’s characteristic double installation against electric shock, the M19012B has a standard 82mm cutting blade.

This planer has a continuous rating input of 500W and a no-load speed of 16 000 r/min. It is 285mm in length and weighs only 2.7kg. The planer comes standard with a 2m power supply cord.

The Makita MT M1902B is the perfect tool for removing unwanted timber from soft and hard wood.

To enter and be included in our Business Media Mags newsletter database, SMS EASYDIY 44 MAKITA 1 followed by your full name, email and physical address to 33089. SMSes cost R1.50 each.

To enter without inclusion in the newsletter, SMS EASYDIY 44 MAKITA 2. SMS errors are billed; free SMSes do not apply.

For full terms and conditions, visit easyDIY.co.za. Competition ends 13 April 2022.

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Feature

HOME MAINTENANCE

Top household

TASKS TO TACKLE FREE UP THAT JAMMING DOOR!

Here are some tips and techniques for a couple of simple projects for the home.

Sometimes in high humidity, the wood of a door may swell or warp, making it difficult to open and close the door.

A door can also jam if the jamb (the frame that surrounds the door) is distorted for some reason. First find out where it is touching the jamb. If it’s on the outer edge, you may get away with sanding or planing down the edge without removing the door. If it’s the top or bottom of the door, then you probably will have to remove it. With luck, only sanding will be needed, but if you have

By Rod Baker

O

wning a home means never-ending maintenance, fixing up, and sometimes, revamping. In this feature, we take a look at some tasks you may decide to take on, and offer some tips to make the work easier.

to remove a lot of wood, you may have to cut the door or plane it. If doing the latter, a block of wood clamped to the far end of the door will stop the wood chipping. It must be clamped firmly in position with its edge flush with the edge of the door.

Place the door, driving the hinge pins in only a little way, or attach the hinges with just one screw each (attach the top first, then the lower one). Open and close the door a few times to check that the problem has been solved and then complete the reattachment.

HERE’S HOW:

Bare wood where the protective varnish has been worn off is the giveaway.

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Tap the hinge pins out a little using a nail so that you can grip the end with a pair of pliers. Grip the pin firmly, tap the pliers lightly and the pin should slide out.

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4 Remove material where you have to, either by planing or sanding, as here.

If planing, firmly clamp a block of scrap wood to the end to stop the door’s wood splitting.

NOTE: Bear in mind that the problem might not be due to the door warping or absorbing moisture and swelling … the problem could actually be that one or both hinges have corroded to such an extent that they are essentially “locked” and instead of rotating on their hinge pins, they flex – moving the far edge or top and/or bottom of the door out of alignment. So check the hinges first and if they are badly corroded, switch them out for exact replacements, then check if the door still jams.

Alternatively, remove the screws. Note: whichever method you use, work on the lower hinge first and then the top one – otherwise the door may fall. The best way is to remove all but one screw from one flap of the bottom hinge, then all but one screw from one flap of the top hinge. Then with someone to hold the door, remove the last screw from the bottom hinge, and then the last one from the top, freeing the door.

5 When a hinge is this rusted it can lock solid, causing the door to jam as its flaps are flexed. In extreme cases, this could cause the wood or the screws to fail, or for the hinge itself to fracture due to metal fatigue – suddenly you open or close the door and it falls – probably ripping the other hinge out of the door jamb.

6 When refitting the door after planing or sanding the jamming section/s, attach it with just one screw top and bottom and check the work you have done has sorted out the problem. If not, it is still easier to remove the door again and do further work on it.

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THE BEST WAY TO PAINT A DOOR

YOU WILL NEED: • 120-grit abrasive paper

Painting a door is pretty straightforward, but there is one way to make it even easier – without getting finish all over your door handles

• Cover and paint tray • Hammer and screwdrivers

HERE’S HOW:

• Lint-free cloth • Masking tape or painter’s tape

• Remove lockset hardware, sand door with medium-grade abrasive paper to dull glossy paint, and then wipe away any dust. Clean the door with a lint-free cloth. Prime it if necessary.

• Use a mirror to inspect the bottom edge of the door to ensure that it has been painted or sealed. If not, take out the hinge pins, remove the door, and apply a sealer. Paint the door’s edges first, using a 25mm brush.

• Paint a panel door, one side at a time, in the following order. First paint the moulded edges of the panels (using a 25mm brush), and then paint the panels (using a 75mm brush).

• NOTE: When painting sliding doors, complete one door before starting the other. With flush doors, work from the top down.

• Use a clean rag to wipe off excess paint that has dripped onto the vertical stiles and horizontal rails.

Using a 75mm brush, paint the centre stile next, but only the areas between panels. Then paint the rails, feathering the edges where you meet an already painted area. Finish with the two outside stiles.

• When the door has dried, paint the trim with a 25mm brush. On the in-swinging side, paint the architrave (the interior moulding that fits on to the frame around a door or window) and the jamb up to the stops with the same colour as the in-swinging side of the door. On the opposite side, paint the second colour on the architrave, the remaining jamb, and the stops.

Instead of totally removing the door handle for the duration of the job, try this:

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4 2 Pull the plastic bag tightly over the handle.

• Paintbrushes (25mm and 75mm) • Primer (if needed) and paint • Small mirror

TOP TIP

Pop a couple of nuts into your paint before you close it. When you need to use it again, shake it and the nuts will help speed up mixing. (It’s the same principle used in aerosol paint spray cans, except they have a small ball-bearing to do the same job.)

3 Note that the handle can be pulled away from the door. A gap of about 5mm is about right, so you can get the tip of the brush in under the handle plate.

Remove the door handle and lightly sand the area around the handle plate. Then place it in the bottom of a plastic shopping bag and reattach it partly with its securing screws, so that the screws just grip the door.

• Paint roller (ensure that it is the correct one for the paint you are using)

Secure the plastic bag firmly with a rubber band, ensuring that no part of it is close to the door.

5 This means that you can – using care – still move the door. Once the paint is dry pull the plastic bag away and secure the handle firmly in position on the door.

HINT You can avoid removing the door from its hinges to paint the bottom edge of the door like this (if there is a gap of 10mm or so between the bottom edge of the door and the floor… use a strip of old carpet, about 300mm long by 50mm wide. Wedge the door open and cover the floor below its bottom edge with newspaper or a drop cloth. Holding both ends of the carpet, dip the bottom of the ‘U’ (pile uppermost) into the paint or sealer and pass it along the bottom edge of the door in a sawing motion. Use a mirror and apply paint or sealer to any missed areas.

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Feature

HOME MAINTENANCE

REPAIR THAT CARPET

Carpets bear the brunt of feet scuffling over them and having stuff dropped on them, resulting in unsightly stains. And, in winter with fires going, carpets stand the risk of embers landing and leaving burn patches.

Fortunately, both issues are not difficult to repair.

So, when you have your home recarpeted, always ensure that you keep the leftover pieces of carpet. They can serve two purposes: you can have selected left-over pieces edged and turned into carpets for the bedside and entrances, and you’ll have a ready supply of identical carpet pieces for patching up stains and burns.

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HERE’S HOW:

To check for a snug fit, press it in around the corners and edges first, finishing off by pressing the centre down flat. Now you can see if you have achieved a really neat repair. This is also a good time to very carefully snip off any stray strands of carpet warp or weft.

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Many stains can be removed, but a stubborn one like this requires a more drastic remedy.

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Make sure you don’t cut through the underfelt, and keep the patch as small as possible. Note that the hole is a perfect rectangle. It could also be a square, but the main thing is that it has straight sides. It is not circular – to match the stain – because that would mean cutting across the warp and weft, which is not what you want.

2 Cut out the damaged portion, making sure you cut carefully between the weave.

TOP TIP

The patch ready for dry fitting.

Ensure that your patch is cut along the same plane as the damaged portion.

If you have a patterned carpet, take extra care to ensure your patch comes from the same part of the pattern.

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7 Use contact adhesive to first secure the carpet surrounding the patch to the underfelt. If using contact adhesive, allow the glue to cure as per the manufacturer’s instructions before completing the repair. To finish, apply glue to the open area of underfelt and the underside of the patch and press the patch into position as you did when dry fitting, again lightly pushing in the edges first and then the centre, before pressing it down firmly. Carefully snip off any other loose tufts and put some heavy books on to the repair while the adhesive cures completely.

The completed repair – all but invisible.

Cut your patch, slightly larger than the hole it is to fill, and dry fit it. If your patch is a little too big, rather cut another or trim it carefully. Don’t enlarge the hole in the carpet – it should be as small as possible.

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GET RID OF CARPET STAINS A few general hints relating to carpet stains, the substances that cause them, and the substances used to remove them.

• Always use clean white cloth and/ or tissues when mopping up stains to avoid any colour transferring to whatever you are cleaning.

• Quickly mop up as much of the spill as you possibly can.

• Work from and around the edges steadily towards the centre. That way

you will help confine the stain and limit the damage.

• Once you have removed most of a deposit from a carpet or fabric, spray it with a strong jet of water from the other side, this tends to force the debris out. Spraying on the upper surface tends to drive the particles further into the weave. Naturally, you cannot do this with fitted carpets, only with loose ones.

• Alternatively, if you have a wet-and-dry

vacuum, use that to suck up as much of the spilled material as possible.

• Be careful when using bleach or any other strong fabric cleaner. If you are not sure of the product’s effect, seek the manufacturers or carpet installers advice. Ideally you should have some offcuts from the carpet installation and can test the product on a small section of one of those. No offcuts or advice from the experts? Then test the product on an out-of-the-way spot.

HOW TO GET RID OF THE MOST COMMON STAINS • BEER – squirt some soda water over the patch, rinse with clean water and blot dry.

• BLOOD – wash the blood out with cool water. If it has dried, dab it with meat tenderiser and add cool water. It will take about 20 minutes or so to soften the stain, after which you should sponge off with cool water. The remedy used to remove a beer stain is also said to be effective.

• CANDLE WAX – scrape off as much as you can and remove the rest by laying tissue paper over it and the toe of a warm iron. In polypropylene or nylon carpets, do not allow the metal of the iron to come into contact with the carpet material. Dab with methylated spirits to remove any colour if the candle was a decorative, coloured one.

• CHOCOLATE – remove the worst of the deposit. Then use a clean cloth to dab a solution of half a teaspoon of mild detergent in 500ml of water. If the stain is persistent, try a solution of a tablespoon of ammonia in half a cup of water, and dab as before.

• COFFEE – mop up as much coffee as you can with white paper towels or rags, then sponge on a solution of borax. If the stain still remains, mix two cups of warm water with one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid and one tablespoon of white vinegar and blot the stain with the mixture. Repeat blotting until the stain is gone. Sponge off with cold water to rinse and a clean cloth to dry the carpet as much as possible.

You can also spray with a branded stain remover and then rinse in clean water.

• EGG – remove with salt water and tissue paper, then rinse with clean water.

• FAECES – remove as much as you can by lifting the material – not rubbing or wiping it from one side.

Once you have the worst off, apply a proprietary carpet cleaner and use a wet-and-dry vacuum to

•

•

•

•

• •

•

remove any debris caught in the carpet fabric.

Finish off by rinsing with clean water and a cloth and blot dry.

GRASS – rub the stain with a pad dipped in liquid detergent or a diluted solution of alcohol. White vinegar, a mild solution of hydrogen peroxide, or bleach – if safe for the fabric – can be tried on very stubborn stains.

LIPSTICK – treat the stain with methylated spirits or salad oil, or rub in petroleum jelly, cold cream or white margarine and wipe with white bread. Soak the stain in lemon juice if the fabric is white and in a 50/50 water/juice solution if it is coloured.

OIL STAINS ON PAVING – you can remove the worst of the stain by brushing dry cement over it or using your hand to roll cat litter over it and then brushing it off. Repeat as necessary. If using cement, ensure that you remove all of it. If it sets, it can become as big a problem as the original stain.

RED WINE – pour a little white wine on to the red wine stain, leave it for a couple of minutes, then rinse off with a clean white cloth or tissue and then dry it.

RUST – rub a vinegar/salt paste into the stain, leave to stand for 30 minutes and wash.

TEA – apply some soda water, sponge, rinse and blot dry, finish off by dabbing the area with a 50/50 mix of water and peroxide, and finally sponge with clean water and blot dry.

WHITE WINE/SPARKLING WHITE WINE – blot with a clean white cloth or paper towel to remove as much of the liquid as possible. Then soak the area with tap water using a clean sponge or cloth and blot again with a dry cloth until it is as dry as possible. Allow it to dry completely. Vacuum over the area to remove any debris that might have settled on the damp area and to raise the carpet fibres.

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Feature

HOME MAINTENANCE

TIME

20 minutes (longer if you want to add a shelf)

COST

R80–R100 for casters, plus cost of table/ workbench and any shelving materials

SOMETHING FOR THE KITCHEN Here’s how to make a simple rolling trolley-table to solve a space problem.

Add casters to the feet of a small workbench and you will have a mobile extra surface where and went you want it. This trolley/table has a worktop of 450mm x 450mm.

HERE’S HOW:

SKILL HIIII

ASSISTANT NO

YOU WILL NEED: • Small table or workbench • Four casters – 40mm wheels should be fine (if you have a tiled floor, larger wheels will negotiate the gaps between the tiles far better than small casters).

1 Attach a caster to each foot/leg of the table/workbench.

4 It can also serve as a place to keep the cookbook you are using well out of harm’s way …

• Securing screws

2 Ensure that they are centred on the base of the foot/leg and, if necessary, drive the securing screws in at an angle – towards the middle of the leg so that you reduce the risk of cracking the timber.

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5 … and even as your very own mobile cookbook library, by using the shelf below, or fitting one yourself – if the table you use does not have one. P

Materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Here it is as a supplementary work surface. Even though on the smallish side, it can accommodate quite a few items.

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ADVERTORIAL PRODUCTS: • Replacement tiles • Tile adhesive • Grout • Bonding liquid (if you are tiling upstairs, outside or in a wet area) • A priming system

How to remove and replace

A CRACKED OR BROKEN TILE Use this easy-to-follow guide to successfully replace cracked or chipped tiles

C

racked, chipped and broken tiles are not only unsightly, but if in an outside area, there is an added risk of water penetration into the tile installation, which could lead to further damage of your tiled area. The process is fairly simple but calls for a careful hand and some patience to avoid damaging the adjacent tiles.

You can complete this project comfortably over a weekend, particularly if you make use of a quick-setting tile adhesive. The difficulty level is intermediate, requiring some DIY experience.

For mor TOOLS: e inform ation, You Tube ch an

• Grout rake

visit the atch thei TAL Website fo r selectio n of how r DIY tips or se -to videos e the TA .

L South paddle A

nel to w

• Adhesive mixing • Hammer • Small chisel • Spirit level

• Block brush (if priming the surface) • Small scraper • Adhesive trowel

HERE’S HOW:

• Squeegee • Grout sponge • Dust sheets

1 Start by checking the tiles around the cracked one/s. If they sound hollow, you may have a bigger problem than just a cracked tile and should consider getting professional advice from a reputable tiler.

Ideally, you should have some spare tiles saved from when you tiled your room, which can now be used as replacements for the tiles that are damaged. If the tiles were in the room when you bought the property, you may not have that reserve stock available. There are two ways to solve this problem: one is to look for a similar tile that will blend in with the existing tiles. Alternatively, depending on where the cracked tiles are within the space, you can replace them with a patterned or contrasting tile. You may need to remove an extra tile or two in this instance to make the substitution look purposeful.

2 To make the repair blend in with the rest of the tiled area, it’s important to use the same colour grout. If you know the original grout brand and colour use that, alternatively, try to make a match as best as you can to the existing grout.

Dry grout powder is the same colour as it will be when cured/ dried, so use the viewing window on the bag to check that the colour is right.

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ADVERTORIAL

7 Once all the adhesive and grout has been removed, prime the cleaned area with a slurry of TAL Keycoat and TALFIX or TAL Keymix.

3

TOP TIP

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Start by removing the grout from around the cracked tile using a grout rake. Carefully rub the blade back and forth in the middle of the grout joint – take care to avoid touching the edges of the tiles. You will need to remove the grout all the way down to the substrate so take your time with this step.

Protect the corners by placing a piece of cardboard or something similar at the end of the grout joint.

Once all the grout has been removed from the grout joint, cover the tiles surrounding the one/s you are replacing with a dust sheet to protect them. Now break the damaged tile with a hammer and remove the fragments with a chisel.

Work from the centre out to avoid damaging the surrounding tiles.

8 Wait until the primer slurry is touch-dry before installing the replacement tile. Depending on ambient conditions, this should be between 4–6 hours. To save on costs and reduce waste, use TALFIX tile adhesive, which is available in a handy 5kg bag, ideal for small repair projects like this.

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9

5 Now remove any tile adhesive remaining on the substrate and make sure the surface is clean and dry.

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6 Working carefully to avoid chipping the adjacent tiles, remove the grout that remains attached to the sides of the tiles using a small chisel and hammer.

To prepare the adhesive, pour 1.25L of clean water into a bucket then add the 5kg bag of TALFIX. Mix with a mechanical mixer or adhesive paddle mixer, to a creamy, lump-free consistency.

Wait for 3–5 minutes and mix again. If you are tiling upstairs, outside or in a wet area like a bathroom, replace the water in the mix with 1.25L of TAL Bond to provide flexibility and water resistance to the installation.

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

When replacing damaged tiles, it is not always possible to apply the TALFIX directly to the floor because there may be limited space in which to work. In this case, it is best to apply the tile adhesive in a solid bed onto the back of the replacement tile, ensuring complete coverage.

Gently trace the notched side of a flooring trowel through the adhesive to create ‘ridges’.

11

Be sure to scrape any excess tile adhesive out of the joints between the tiles before the adhesive dries. Leave to dry for at least 6–8 hours before grouting. We recommend checking the instructions on the back of the pack to confirm curing times of the tile adhesive.

Once you are sure that the tile adhesive has dried, you can finish the project by applying grout to the grout joints with a squeegee. Using a damp, not wet, grout sponge, gently clean the excess grout off of the tile face before it sets.

This is particularly important if you have added TAL Bond to the grout mix. Allow the grout to set fully before walking over the replacement tile, or before cleaning the area with water. If there is any grout haze on the face of the tile, gently polish off with a clean dry cloth. P

Position the tile in place, pressing down firmly.

Use a spirit level to check that the face of the replacement tile is flush with the surrounding tiles.

You can use a rubber mallet to gently tap the tile and help bed it into the adhesive.

Finished project All installation materials for this project are available from leading tiling retailers and hardware stores nationwide.

For more information: Visit the TAL Website for DIY tips or see the TAL South Africa YouTube channel to watch their selection of how-to videos

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Feature

HOME IMPROVEMENTS

RENOVATE or build?

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SUPPLIED

Renovating an outdated space in your home or expanding a room not only adds to your enjoyment of the living space, but also the value of your home. Here are some tips from TimBuild Stellenbosch, to help ensure that your project runs smoothly

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IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, SUPPLIED

1. Set up a budget. When renovating or building, costing is essential.

Create a budget and stick to it. If a contractor is helping you, he must give you a clear and detailed quote. Be sure to thoroughly check references from his/her previous clients. It is always a good idea to have a 10–20 per cent contingency to allow for unexpected expenses.

2. Have a clear design and end goal.

Do you want to restore the original appearance or create a whole new dramatically different style? Think carefully about functionality, and focus on introducing natural light, which has the power to transform a living space.

3. Write up a schedule of works. This will also give you a timeframe for your project and ensure that you plan around the impact each task will have on another. For example rewiring before plastering and painting.

4. Remember the 3 Ss. Salvage anything you can re-use such as old sanitary ware that can be cleaned up. Sell things that can be re-used, but are not necessary. Send stuff that can be re-used by someone or an organisation in need, such as charity stores, and pay it forward.

5. Put your personal stamp on the finishings. Skirting boards and wardrobes can be put in, floor finishes can be laid, tiles can be applied, and the decorating work can begin. Save money on expensive floor finishes by not installing it underneath kitchen units and islands – it can prove a false economy if you decide to change the layout later. The colour scheme you choose depends on whether this is a home for life or a project you plan to sell on in a few years. It is best to stick to a quality, classic design over passing interior trends – less is definitely more. Think longevity when choosing a design.

If you’re creating your own home, luxury items can always be addressed at a later date, so look at creating a strong canvas to build upon over the coming years.

cupboard units are available in a wide range of shapes, styles and finishes.

All you need to do is bring specific measurements to a store near you and let us assist in the design of your new storage space. Our team of professionals is always available to guide you in-store, as well as advise and provide you with top-quality hardware and tools. With your ideas and our expertise, you can create an entire cupboard structure according to your work surface layout, the amount of storage space you need and the traffic flow in the room.

An Insta-Cupboard saves you hours of time. TimBuild does the cutting, drilling and edging all before delivery of your pre-assembled cupboards. However, if you’re uncertain about the designs you want, there are several kinds of pre-assembled cupboards available to choose from • Floor units – free-standing storage units that include drawers, grocery and floor corner cupboards.

• Wall units – affixed to surfaces, the choices comprise wall-end display, multilevel shelving and corner units.

• Specialist units – made to order using your dimensions, including double-door shelves, hanging cupboards and sink cabinets. (These are not assembled or drilled, but rather specialist units clients need to assemble and drill). P

WATCH EASY DIY VIDEOS HERE: DIY cupboard units

Hardware and safety equipment

CUPBOARDS MADE EASY TimBuild’s range of Insta-Cupboards could be the perfect solution when renovating kitchens and bedrooms. Best of all, you don’t have to worry about drilling planks together, constructing from scratch, or finding the right screws. These DIY and pre-assembled

Power tools

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DIY 101

FURNITURE MAKEOVER

SPLIT

It’s time to get creative and makeover a piece of furniture with your own bespoke look – the question is, which style will you choose?

THE INDUSTRIALIST

THE OCCIDENTALIST Obsessed with the Western world, she is fun, frivolous and a little materialistic.

What better item to represent Western culture than a pair of jeans?

Has no time for fanciness – it’s all about practicality. She feels some things were just made better back in the day so will often choose vintage over new.

THE ORIENTALIST

Nods to the traditions of the East. She appreciates simplicity and nature and takes great pleasure in rituals and customs such as taking tea.

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THE ANARCHIST Is a non-conformist, who likes to challenge the rules in every way.

She is gregarious, flirty and lots of trouble ... in a good way!

Gets a little snap-happy. She takes her camera everywhere she goes and always has eye-to-lens to capture the most candid moments.

THE MONARCHIST Loves the royal family, but doesn’t take it too seriously – it’s all about the glamour associated with the monarchy.

THE PAPARAZZA

personalities

THE POET A lover, dreamer and constant writer – always has a notebook at hand to pour her soul into. She can be a bit cheeky with her wordplays, too.

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DIY 101

FURNITURE MAKEOVER

THE MAKE

THE OCCIDENTALIST AND THE ORIENTALIST TO MAKE LEFT SIDE Step 1. Use masking tape to mark legs about halfway down. Paint the top half of the legs. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat. Remove tape.

Step 2. Use sewing scissors to cut pockets out of denim jeans. Cut as close to the seam as possible to ensure the fabric doesn’t fray.

Step 3. Secure denim pockets one at a time with craft glue (the more random the better). Use pins to hold in place while glue dries.

TO MAKE RIGHT SIDE Step 1. Paint legs in your chosen colour.

Allow to dry, then apply a second coat.

Step 2. Apply craft glue over the whole chair (excluding legs).

Step 3. Drape floral fabric over the chair, letting 50cm hang over the left and right sides. Press fabric down to secure to glue on the seat, backrest and reverse.

Step 4. Use sewing scissors to trim excess fabric, but leave fabric hanging on sides to create a “flowy” look.

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THE INDUSTRIALIST AND THE MODERNIST Step 1 Paint desk with a primer. Allow to dry.

TO MAKE LEFT SIDE Step 2. With a sponge, apply dark grey paint to the desktop using a “dabbing” technique. This creates a worn look as white shows through.

Step 3. To add an industrial edge, paint numbers at the end of the desktop using a numbered stencil and metallic spray paint.

Step 4. Paint legs black. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat.

TO MAKE RIGHT SIDE Step 2. Paint desktop black. Allow to dry, then apply asecond coat.

Step 3. Use masking tape to create a Mondrian-inspired pattern on the desktop.

Step 4. Paint blocks in a selection of bold colours. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat.

Step 5. Leave legs white but paint rope black.

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CHRIS WARNES/AREMEDIASYNDICATION.COM.AU/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA PROJECTS & STYLING JACKIE BROWN, STYLING ASSISTANT MARTIN POLLEY

THE ANARCHIST AND THE MONARCHIST

THE PAPARAZZA AND THE POET

Step 1. Paint chest of drawers with primer.

Allow to dry.

Step 1. Paint front of door with magnetic primer. Allow to dry, then repeat twice more.

(Product works best with three thin coats.)

TO MAKE LEFT SIDE

TO MAKE LEFT SIDE

Step 2. Use a combination of coloured spray paints to create a “graffiti” look. You can try freehand or download stencils off the internet. Allow to dry with drawers open so they don’t stick together.

Step 2. Use masking tape to mark out chevron patterns.

Step 3. Paint pattern in a mix of grey, white and fluoro yellow (or colours of your choice).

Allow to dry, and then apply a second coat.

Step 4. To make magnetic decorations, print your favourite photos onto high-gloss paper.

Cut each piece out individually and stick a piece of magnetic tape to the back.

TO MAKE RIGHT SIDE Step 2. Use masking tape to mark out a British flag (or flag of your choice).

Step 3. Bring the flag to life using spray paint in your chosen colours. Allow to dry with drawers open so they don’t stick together, then apply a second coat and allow to dry with drawers open.

TO MAKE RIGHT SIDE Step 2. Paint in black. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat. Creating one block colour makes a plain backdrop for magnetic words or pics – poetic ones, of course.

Step 3. Paint the doorknob in a contrasting colour for added interest.

Step 4. To make magnetic decorations, print your favourite songs or poems onto high-gloss paper. Cut each piece out individually and stick a piece of magnetic tape to the back. Arrange on your new door! P

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BATHROOM ACCESSORIES

DIY 101

Beautify your

BATHROOM

These bathroom accessories can be easily made from tree branches.

Their beauty is their simplicity

YOU WILL NEED: • Wood screws 5 × 80mm • Prisms (spruce, pine) 40 × 40 × 3000mm • Branches without bark • Peeled wood: we recommend treating with wax or other protective preparation

DUMB SERVANT HERE’S HOW:

1 Cut the prism into four pieces of 75 cm each.

Determine the width and length of the dumb servant to straddle the bath, then cut both ends of the prisms accordingly. Ensure that the upper connected ends align; that way you get the basic shape. Drill insertion holes into the prism partitions from branches, sand them and paint.

2 In the branch that will form the upper rung, cut out notches according to the width of the prism so that it fits onto the lid created by the feet of the dumb servant.

4 3 Screw the upper rail on to the prism of the foot.

Screw the upper rail onto the second prism. Paint the screw heads. Finally slide the other two ready partitions from branches to the openings in prisms.

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DIY 101

BATHROOM ACCESSORIES

STOOL YOU WILL NEED: • thicker branches without bark, with a diameter of about 50mm and a length of approximately 50cm • spruce log with a diameter of about 30cm and a height of 15cm • wood glue

HERE’S HOW:

1 Drill holes for the legs in the block at an angle.

2 Cut the holes for the feet, cut on a flat surface so that they rest on the floor.

3 With feet extended, sand and paint. Drop the glue on the feet and push back.

LADDER YOU WILL NEED: • Branches about 170cm long • bars with a diameter of 20mm • wood glue

1 The branches should have roughly the same curvature to make the bars parallel. Drill openings for bars in both branches. Place the top and lower bar and then cut the others as needed. Sand and paint the bars.

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2 Glue all the bars into one branch first and then to the other. P

IMAGES: ALENA HRBKOVÁ/SUNRAY PHOTO/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA

HERE’S HOW:

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Untitled-11 1

2022/02/16 11:29 AM

DIY 101

GARDEN TABLE

TIME

5–7 days

COST R1 000

SKILL ★★★★✩

ASSISTANT

Yes, for lifting the slabs

YOU WILL NEED: • Paving slabs – 600x600x45mm – two • Treated SA pine: • Seven 1.8m lengths of 22x69mm – • One 3m purlin – 76x50mm • Two 3m battens – 38x38mm • Decking screws • 40 of 10x40mm

A table for ALL SEASONS This solid garden table is designed to take anything thrown at it.

• 20 of 10x75mm • Timber fix hex-head fasteners

By Rod Baker

• 30 of 12x50mm

P

• 10 of 12x75mm

aving slabs are extremely strong and durable. This table takes advantage of those qualities, plus the durability of treated pine, to give you a long-lasting, table for the garden or patio.

As the dimensions of table may differ according to your preferences and slab sizes, I have not provided a cutting list. However, this table is 1 295mm x 690mm x 535mm.

The table is very heavy, so we carried the frame to where the table would stay and fitted the slabs there.

I went for the 600x600x45mm slabs. If you decide to use smaller slabs, you might need to adapt the design quite substantially.

• Finish of your choice – I chose to leave this table unfinished and in its natural state

TOOLS: • Circular cut-off saw • Drill/driver • Router • Random orbital sander • Chisel

HERE’S HOW:

1 The inner frame for the slabs must accommodate them with a little play on each edge. I wanted to have a double insert between the slabs to simulate a pair of tables pushed together when viewed from above, so I put two 22mm spacers between them.

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2 I measured the two, which worked out at 1 244mm so my working length for the inner length of the table would be 1 254mm – which allows 2.5mm on each end of each slab (2.5mm – 600mm – 2.5mm – 44mm – 2.5mm – 600mm – 2.5mm).

3 I cut two 38x38mm battens to the 1254mm lengths, checking them for fit.

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9 Then at the other end, I marked off the cut line.

4

14

2.5mm was a bit close for comfort, so when positioning the cross battens, I added an extra 6mm – using a piece of 3mm perspex as my spacer.

Here’s the first fastener driven in and standing proud of the wood’s surface.

10 One length of the outer frame clamped onto the inner frame batten. The bottom edge of the two should be flush.

15

5

When spacing out the rest of the fasteners, I measured between the outer two and then came up with a spacing of 120mm between each. The battens must be securely fixed to the outer frame as they have to bear the weight of the slabs.

I used bar clamps to hold the frame securely together.

11

6 I cut four 38mm thick blocks from the length of purlin to be used as corner attachment blocks.

The underside of a corner of the inner frame with one length of the outer frame added – the batten’s lower surface is flush with the outer frame’s lower edge. The positions of the two corner block securing screws are marked so that I know where they are and can avoid them when fitting the outer frame.

16 With the top frame – inner and outer complete – it was time for the legs. I used six legs, each 500mm long, cut from the 76x50mm purlin.

7 I pre-drilled pilot holes for the 10x75mm decking screws that will secure the corners and then drove in the screws four per corner to make the join very secure.

12 I drilled pilot holes for each of the 12x50mm fixing screws, spacing them evenly and starting 60mm in from each end and 20mm up from the bottom edge of the outer frame.

17 I aligned them and clamped them together.

8 I did a visual dry-fit of the completed inner frame by placing it over the slabs on the floor to confirm they would fit into the inner frame. Now for the outer frame, which will enclose the slabs. I placed one end flush with the outer edge of the inner frame cross-member.

13 Use a nut setter to insert the hex-head self-drilling screws. This is the 8x48 version.

It is equipped with a magnet insert, which holds the screw head in the socket. The fastener heads are 8mm hexagonal with a flange so are not intended to be countersunk.

18 I set the circular cut-off saw cutting depth to 28mm.

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DIY 101

GARDEN TABLE

19 Position one of the blade’s cutting tips to directly below the centre of the blade so that your depth is precise.

28

24 I rounded off the top and outer front edges, and the base of each leg.

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20 I made the first cut and then the others, progressively reducing the cutting width to cut a number of slots.

A central leg fixed in position using a 12x75mm fastener that passed right through into the batten, reinforcing that union. It is 20mm up from the lower edge of the outer frame.

25

I cut six blocks from offcut 22x69mm.

Here are the six legs showing (left to right) outer surface, rebated top on side, rebated top and three views of the feet.

30 21

I clamped each one to the inner surface of the leg, using a 22mm spacer to fix it 22mm above (when the table is right way up) from the bottom of the foot.

Then I used a pry bar to break them out.

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Finally, with a length of purlin on the cut side to help steady the router, I used a straight cutter to clean up the rebate in the legs’ tops.

27 23 I fitted a rounding off bit.

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I set the legs in by 105mm as the corners already have four screws going in this way and that and I didn’t want the leg fastener to come up against one.

31 I used a single 10x75mm decking screw to secure it to the inner surface of the leg. I repeated this procedure with each leg.

32 I cut three cross-braces to fit snugly between the legs and secured them from underneath with two 10x40mm decking screws.

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Attaching the legs … this is how the underside of the frame sits in the rebate on the leg, ensuring that the leg takes the full weight of the tabletop.

The leg has been clamped down firmly to ensure that it is hard up against the underside of the frame. This will ensure that it is locked in place – even with the single 12x75mm fastener.

33 I cut a pair of lengthwise braces and fixed them to the cross-braces using three screws per join, again from underneath. None of the attachment screws are visible when the table is the right way up.

34 Next was the floating divider, which is not fixed to the frame, but helps support the slabs where they almost meet at the middle of the table. I cut two 22x69mm lengths to fit into the frame and joined them using 10x40mm decking screws.

37 The table’s frame all complete.

38 I put the slabs into their positions and lightly sanded the tops to get rid of the odd scuff marks.

39 35

Nice and clean.

I cut two battens to fit and attached them to the floating frame, using six 10x75mm decking screws on each side to make a strong join. These screws pass right through the battens and into both centre lengths of the floating divider. Having marked off the cutting line and having cut it, I used a chisel to make the tongue on each end of the floating divider.

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The completed table. P

36 The floating divider resting on the main frame battens.

These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

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NEW-LOOK BOOKCASE

DIY 101

BEFORE

TIME

Three hours

COST R450

AFTER

SKILL HIIII

ASSISTANT

Yes, to help with sticking the contact

YOU WILL NEED: • Sandpaper/sanding discs (80 and 120 grit) • Acrylic or chalk paint • Paint tray • Paintbrush • Small foam roller • Mineral turpentine • 1 or 2 rolls of contact adhesive or wallpaper • Cloths • Wood filler (if needed) • Wax or sealer (optional)

Refinish a

BOOKCASE A bright new look and a great place for your books. By Gina Hartoog

O

ver the years, the humble bookcase has transformed into an important decor piece in any room. It now showcases plants, photographs and ornaments as well as books.

This old pine bookcase was definitely up for a revamp. It’s part of the decor – both aesthetic and functional – in a young boy’s nautical-themed bedroom. We opted to paint the unit in a funky turquoise colour with a contrasting backboard to give the unit a modern spin. We opted for contact adhesive in checker plate aluminium to suit the nautical theme. Contact adhesives can be tricky to work with, but it’s cost-effective if you’re working on a budget.

You can also use wallpaper to cover the backboard. This depends on the size of the bookcase and if you have any offcuts from a previous DIY project. Buying a full roll of wallpaper for a small bookcase won’t be cost-effective.

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DIY 101

NEW-LOOK BOOKCASE

TOOLS: • Screwdriver • Pliers • Orbital sander

HERE’S HOW:

• Plastic ruler • Hammer

6

1 Remove the backboard. We used a screwdriver to pry the board loose.

4 Apply the paint. We opted to use acrylic, slightly watered down to allow the wood grain to show through. A colour wash produces a much lighter look and a more prominent wood grain. We used 75 per cent paint and 25 per cent water. You can also use 50 per cent paint and 50 per cent water for a lighter finish. If you want a solid paint finish, apply two to three coats of paint. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next one.

Cut the contact to size. Depending on the length of your roll and the size of your bookcase, you may need to join two or more pieces. To create a seamless look, measure and cut the piece so the join falls behind the shelf and is hidden.

7a 2 Once the nail is slightly out, use a pliers and screwdriver to grab it and gently pull. Remove all the nails and set aside the backboard. Keep the nails in the safe place so you can reattach the backboard after painting.

7b

5

Apply contact from the top left corner of the backboard, working downwards in the shape of a triangle. Have your assistant pull off the backing paper as you apply the contact.

A ruler works well to remove any air pockets.

[Pic 7A and 7B]

Wipe down the backboard to remove any dust or residue.

3 Use the 80-grit sandpaper to sand down and remove the old finish. Give the unit a final sand with 120-grit. Dampen a cloth with a little mineral turpentine and wipe down the unit to remove dust. Give it a complete check and repair any nicks and cracks with wood filler.

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You can seal the item after painting. This is recommended for items that will face heavy use or if you want to add a sheen to the unit. Choose a clear wax top coat (chalk paint) or clear water-based sealer (acrylic), depending on the type of paint used. Allow to dry completely before applying a second coat if desired.

8 Reattach the backboard using the nails and hammer and arrange the ornaments. P

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Workshop

CIRCULAR SAWS

Choosing the right

CIRCULAR SAW AND BLADES

shares DIY tips on how to make sure you buy the right circular saw and fit it with the correct blade

Kreg

I

t’s easy to get overwhelmed when buying a circular saw because of the many different saws on offer. There’s no single answer for which circular saw is right for you, but here are a few things to know that will help you decide.

Many DIYers rely on cordless tools these days, so you may be surprised to know that corded circular saws remain quite popular among DIYers and, especially, professionals. There are pros and cons to both types, even though technology has moved both options way ahead of their time. “Today both corded and cordless top brands offer the same features, power and torque, and will do the job,” says Greg De Villiers, Vermont Sales tool guru.

“In South Africa, as a regular user, I would certainly go for the cordless option.”

Today there are not many big advantages between the two; corded does have consistent power (doesn’t fade with long continued use), but requires direct access to an electrical outlet, however, they are not that mobile and the cord can get in the way. With cordless, the power decreases as the battery drains. However, many top models have long-lasting batteries, and the latest quick chargers. Also, the battery is interchangeable with other tools.

You need to check costs and determine what best suits your needs.

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If you’re buying your first circular saw, and not planning to use it often, a corded saw is probably the best way to go. In general, you’ll get more cutting power and capacity for less money.

A cordless circular saw may make sense as your first saw, though, if you can find a great deal on a multitool combo pack or if you already own cordless tools from the same manufacturer. You may even be able to buy the saw without a battery. That way, you can reduce the purchase cost and use the batteries you already have.

What circular saw features and controls do I need to be familiar with?

A circular saw isn’t a super complicated tool once you understand the parts, the controls, and what they do. Familiarise yourself with them, and you’ll be able to easily set your saw up correctly, use it safely and confidently, and get better cutting results.

Whatever type of circular saw you buy, and whether it’s corded or cordless, the basic features and controls will be essentially the same.

They might look slightly different on your particular saw, but will perform the same functions.

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CORDED OR CORDLESS?

GETTING STRAIGHT CUTS How do I make straight cuts with a circular saw?

Some people think that it’s difficult to get a straight, smooth, and accurate cut with a circular saw.

However, you can get great results once you’ve learnt a few tips and tricks.

CUTTING BRIDGE The first thing is to support the pieces you are cutting so they won’t move around or fall as you work. Kreg has a free plan for an easy-to-build cutting support that bridges two work supports to hold your pieces while you work.

After that, you’ll want to know how to set up your saw easily, as well as how to align and control the saw as you cut. You can find some helpful videos on the Kreg website.

BLADE CUTTING QUALITY COMPARISON

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Do I need different saw blades for different cuts?

One of the biggest frustrations people have with a circular saw is getting rough cutting results. It’s not the saw’s fault, though, nor is it yours. It’s usually the blade. Circular saws come with blades that are made for making fast cuts in framing lumber, and special blades for smooth cuts in project boards and plywood. You can fix this easily, though, by just swapping out the blade with a “fine cut” blade. This type of blade has many more teeth with sharp carbide tips that will produce a smooth, clean cut. P

Kreg is a major international brand from Vermont Sales and is available at leading outlets countrywide. For more information, talk to your local retail outlet or contact, Vermont Sales on 011 314 7711 or visit their web site www.vermontsales.co.za

WATCH USEFUL TUTORIALS HERE Kreg Academy – Building confidence to build anything

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CUTTING MITERS

MAKE THE

CUT RIGHT These simple techniques and easy-to-use guides make it easy to create mitered joints that are accurate and fit together tightly using a circular saw. By Kreg

W

hen you’re building projects with mitered joints, accurate cuts are important. Without them, you’ll end up with assemblies that don’t fit together correctly or have visible gaps in the joints. That’s especially true if you don’t have a miter saw and you must make your miter cuts using a circular saw. It’s challenging to align the blade with your mark, hold the saw steady as you start the cut, and keep the saw moving perfectly straight along a marked line.

You can cut miters accurately and more easily using a saw guide.

ALIGNING YOUR CUT Before we look at how to cut a miter, let’s cover what a miter is. Simply put, a miter is a cut across a workpiece at an angle other than 90° to the edge. A mitered joint connects one piece to another piece at an angle. Though a miter cut can be at any other angle other than 90°, the most common miter angle is 45°. Put two 45° miters together, and you’ll get a 90° corner, like on the corner of a picture frame. We’ll concentrate on those 45° iters here.

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When you cut miters with a circular saw, the three biggest challenges are: aligning the saw blade with your cut line, holding the saw steady as you start, and keeping the saw moving straight. Many people cut using a tool called a speed square, which is a compact square used in framing and roofing. While a speed square helps guide your saw straight, that only solves one of the three challenges.

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The Kreg Portable Crosscut is equipped with two cutline indicators – one on the 90° side and one on the 45° side.

The indicators are adjustable so, when you get your Portable Crosscut, you set the indicators to show exactly where your saw’s blade will cut. The spring-loaded indicators retract so that they’re out of the way as you cut.

After a simple one-time setup, the cutline indicator will always show where you should place the tool to guide your cut. Simply push the indicator outward and align the end of the indicator with your cutline. Then hold the Portable Crosscut against the edge of the board. Take your thumb off the indicator button, and a spring retracts it out of the way. That’s all it takes to align the Portable Crosscut. You know it will be positioned correctly every time –without you having to measure for the blade offset. The Saw Support Ledge provides a stable place to rest your saw as you start the cut, this ensures that the blade will be held perpendicular to the face of the wood.

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HOLDING THE SAW STEADY Next, while you hold the Portable Crosscut in place with one hand, place your saw so the edge of the baseplate is aligned with the Portable Crosscut’s 45° saw edge guide. A saw support ledge supports the part of the saw baseplate that’s not on the wood, so you don’t have to worry about holding the saw steady and level as you start the cut. The ledge keeps the saw from tipping, which ensures that the edge of your miter will be straight and flat from the beginning of the cut to the end.

By simply holding the base of the saw against the saw edge guide, you can be confident that your cut will be straight and at the 45° angle that you want.

KEEPING THE SAW STRAIGHT

With the saw in position, cutting an accurate 45° miter is as simple as pushing the saw forward while keeping the saw’s baseplate against the saw edge guide. You’ll get a straight and accurate cut, and you’ll end up with a great miter cut.

The Portable Crosscut makes the process even easier by staying solidly in place on your board. The design allows you to hold the Portable Crosscut in place and hold the wood. A Kreg GripMaxx™ surface grabs onto the wood to prevent slipping.

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FIND SUCCESS WITH A CUTTING STATION

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If you make a lot of miter cuts with your circular saw, you may want to step up to a more sophisticated setup to guide your saw. That’s where a tool like the Crosscut Station can be handy.

The Crosscut Station makes your circular saw operate a lot more like a miter saw in a few ways. First, the Crosscut Station holds your work in place against a fence. Second, the Crosscut Station sets your cutting angle for you. Finally, this handy cutting station guides your saw blade precisely along a single line so you’ll know exactly where your saw will cut every time. The fence can be positioned at any angle to the saw’s cut line. Moulded-in lines every 5° make alignment easy.

You can slide the fence closer to the cut line for maximum support near the blade.

HOLDING YOUR WORKPIECE AND SETTING THE ANGLE With the Crosscut Station, you don’t hold the cutting guide on your workpiece. Instead, you place your workpiece in the guide. You can cut at 90° or set the adjustable fence at any miter angle, including 45°, by using the lines moulded into the station’s base. Then you can hold the piece in place using the built-in clamps or by hand. That ensures your workpiece will stay put at 45° for accurate miters.

Guide rails adjust to fit your saw’s base exactly so that it travels smoothly and precisely along the same cutting path every time.

GUIDING YOUR SAW BLADE To ensure that your saw moves precisely as you cut, the Crosscut Station uses a pair of rails to guide your saw. After a one-time setup to fit the rails to your saw’s base, all you must do is push the saw forward. The rails guide it straight, so you don’t have to worry about the saw wandering off your intended cutline. Your saw and your saw blade move on the same line every time.

The design of the Crosscut Station makes clean, accurate miter cuts because the saw blade cuts predictably. That makes your circular saw perform like a miter saw. Because the saw moves on the same line every time, the Crosscut Station also makes it easy to cut to the exact length you want. Just align the cut mark on your workpiece with the kerf in the station’s base.

You’ll end up with a piece that’s cut at the exact length and angle you need.

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EASY WAYS TO CHECK MITER ACCURACY

When you’re putting mitered joints together, accuracy is important to ensure the correct angle. With 45° miters, there are a few easy ways to check that the angle you’ve cut is correct.

Use a combination square to check the cut angle or the Kreg Multi-Mark™. Just set the square to 45°, and then hold it against the cut. You’ll get the most accurate result if you capture the workpiece in the square. If the square fits tight to the mitered end and the edge of the workpiece, you know the angle is correct.

If you’re assembling two mitered pieces to create a 90° joint, you can check the 45° miters using a framing square. Just place the pieces against the legs of the square and then check for gaps. If you don’t have a square handy, you can check the accuracy of mitered joints using a straight edge.

Just flip one of the two pieces and line them up straight. If your miters are accurate, the angles will cancel each other out, and both pieces will lay flat against a straight edge with no gaps. P

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WATER TANKS

Maintain

Treat your

TANK TO SOME TLC Big or small, professionally installed or DIY’ed, water storage tanks need regular maintenance to ensure good quality greywater and the longevity of the tanks. Here’s what you need to do. By Brenda Bryden

Y

ou invested in a water storage tank to save water and costs by harvesting rainwater to use for several purposes, so treat it like a valuable asset.

Water tank inlets and outlets, pipes, screens or mosquito blocks should be inspected every six months. Every two to three years, an inspection of the tank should be conducted to determine the presence of sludge.

WHY REGULAR MAINTENANCE IS IMPORTANT Regular maintenance will ensure: • A long service life. Regularly checking your water tank for existing and possible potential damage means you can quickly identify and rectify any issues, thereby extending the tank’s storage life.

• Optimal performance. By identifying and eliminating any problems timeously, the tank and any connected parts will operate at their best.

• Better water quality. Clearing gutters and the tank’s inlets and outlets regularly will minimise contamination of the water and prevent sediments from collecting and sinking to the bottom of the tank.

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Maintain

WATER TANKS

SIX MONTH CHECK • Inspect the condition of all fittings and pipework for leaks or other damage, tighten any loose connections, replace any worn fittings, washers or damaged pipes.

• If you have a pump, check that it is fully operational.

If you notice it switching on or off intermittently, you may have a water leak. However, this should be easy to fix this by tightening or replacing any connections or fittings.

• Clean any filters if you have these fitted using the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Check that the tank lid still fits and seals securely.

• Open the tank to inspect the quality of the water and kill and remove any mosquito larvae. A teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil to every four litres of water will kill the larvae quickly. The oil forms a layer on the water’s surface and smothers and suffocates the larvae. You can then scoop out the dead larvae.

Other effective solutions include cinnamon oil or a tablespoon of paraffin. None of these will affect the water quality. Adding a mosquito screen or block to the tank will help prevent a huge mosquito population from settling in your tank.

• Inspect your roof and gutters and remove any leaves, droppings, or dead insects that may have collected and could fall into the tank contaminating the water. Also cut back any branches that may overhang the roof or tank.

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Use thread (pumber’s) tape to make sure connections are properly sealed.

TWO TO THREE YEARLY CHECK Water storage tanks should be inspected on a two- to three-year basis to check if there is a sludge build up from accumulated sediments.

If sediment has gathered at the bottom of the tank, it must be removed by either siphoning the sludge without emptying the tank of water or by emptying the water and cleaning the tank.

HOW TO SIPHON SLUDGE Place an inverted funnel onto the end of a hose and move it carefully back and forth across the bottom of the tank, then allow some of the water with the sludge to be released as waste.

Empty the tank, then mix hot water with laundry detergent (powder or liquid form) and using a hard-bristled broom, scrub the inside of the tank with the solution. Rinse the tank with running water from a garden hose. P

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If you don’t have a hard-bristled broom, use a scrubbing brush attached to a long pole.

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Guide to

FAUX CERAMICS

BEFORE

TIME

2–3 hours (with drying)

COST

R100–R150

SKILL HIIII

ASSISTANT No

YOU WILL NEED: • Plastic, glass or metal containers • 120-grit sand paper (plastic containers) • Paintbrush (12mm) • Acrylic or chalk paint – stone, cream, terracotta or brown

AFTER

Decorative eco-friendly

POTS AND VASES Create your own clay pots and vases using discarded glass and plastic containers. By Gina Hartoog

D

id you know that ceramic ornaments, pots and vases are making a comeback in home decor? You can create your own faux ceramic items while doing your bit for the planet. Upcycling is a great way to turn unwanted glass or plastic items into something useful. Using a simple paint technique, you can turn numerous items into faux ceramics that add colour and style to any room. Choose glass or plastic containers or upcycle cans. A tuna can makes an interesting container for small succulents, or you can upcycle plastic nursery pots to display plants. If you use the paint technique on a glass container, you can use the jar for fresh flowers. Just be careful to avoid spills on the outside of the container when you fill it with water.

Prepare glass containers for painting. Soak the jar in water to loosen up the label.

The printing layer should peel off easily, but it may leave a sticky residue. Use a little peanut butter or mineral turpentine on a damp cloth to remove. Wash the jar with washing detergent in warm, soapy water or run it through the dishwasher.

Dry thoroughly before painting. If you are using cans, remove the lids and labels, then wash and dry them before starting the project

• Containers to mix paint • Wood stirrer or a kebab stick • Cloth • Wax or baking paper • Old measuring cups/spoon – 1 cup or ½ cup; ¼ cup or tablespoon

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TAKE NOTE If you are using plastic containers, you will need to sand the piece to key the surface before applying the paint. This will help the paint to adhere better. There’s no right or wrong way to do this – just roughen up the surface and wipe afterwards to remove small particles of plastic that could spoil your finish.

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• Bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)

HERE’S HOW: Apply the first coat using a paintbrush.

The key to getting the correct finish is to paint horizontally using single strokes. Let the brush create texture on the item.

1 Prepare your containers for painting as indicated.

4

2 If you have small amounts of paint from a previous project, use different colours to create a hue of your choice. You can mix white with brown to create a lighter tone or use shades of orange for a terracotta look.

5 Place the jar/container upside down on a sheet of wax paper to dry. This helps it not to stick to the surface and you can turn it over and paint the rim once the bottom is dry.

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3 Pour half a cup of acrylic paint into a clean container and add a quarter cup of bicarbonate of soda (bicarb). Use a kebab stick or wooden stirrer to mix the paint. If you are using chalk paint, use less bicarb – half of a quarter cup or 30ml (two tablespoons). This will create a basic mix. If you want less texture on the item, add less bicarb. For a rougher finish, add more.

6

7 Use your completed faux ceramic containers for decorative purposes or plants. They should not be regarded as food-safe. P

Allow the first layer to dry thoroughly – the paint is thick and it can take a while.

This is an important step to ensure good adhesion of the paint. Check the finish before you apply a second coat. The bicarb changes the texture of the paint considerably, creating a thick, porridge-like consistency, so depending on your item, one coat may be enough to provide the coverage you need. Optional step: if the look is rougher than you wanted, brush on a layer of paint only to soften the look.

Allow to dry to a matt finish.

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Living

HOME SAFETY

HOME safety hacks has compiled this list of easy home security hacks to ensure that your home is safe and remains secure when you are not around

Builders

LIGHT UP

SEAL YOUR PEARLY GATES Having a well-secured door is one of the best ways to keep out unwanted guests. While most of us have locks on our doors, they may not always be in the best condition. Ensuring that your door lock is well maintained can be a lifesaver and it’s easy to do. All you need are the replacement locks and a screwdriver.

Here’s how: Unscrew the handle on one side and remove the steel inner bar that connects the handle to the lock. Then unscrew the lock from the face of the door and pull it out.

Double-check the orientation of the new lock before popping it into the door and screwing everything back in. Voila!

“In the hustle and bustle of our day-to-day lives, it can be easy to forget about things like making sure that the entrances to our homes are well maintained and safe. Be sure to check that door hinges and handles are well oiled,” says Burnett.

WATCH EASY DIY VIDEOS HERE Replacing a door lock

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Builders DIY home security tips

BAR NONE Having the right set of burglar bars installed is great for your peace of mind and your insurance premiums. But what constitutes the right set of burglar bars? Here are some things to consider when picking a set: • Figure out whether your windows open inwards or outwards. Certain types of windows will require specific types of burglar bars.

• Think about the design and shape of your windows as well.

• It is also crucial to keep in mind the way the latches open.

Finally, before you head off to spend a few weeks reading that book you’ve been eyeing for months, just remember that load shedding is an unfortunate reality of South African life. So, take care to have contingencies in place. If possible, get someone to swing by periodically and check on your home. P

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“K

eeping your home safe could just take a few simple DIY maintenance measures.

Ensure your peace of mind by getting your security ship-shape,” says Roshana Burnett, senior manager of integrated campaigns at Builders. Here are a few tips:

Outdoor lighting is a great way to get rid of any dark corners in which criminals may consider hiding. So, before you leave, do a quick overhaul of your outdoor lighting situation. Should you decide you need some changes or improvements, these options are easy to install: • Motion-sensing lights. These lights typically have very bright bulbs on either side. They generally have built-in motion sensors and three different settings (light, lux and time) to suit the environment. Make sure you check the IP (ingress protection) setting, as this will tell you how well the light will withstand the rain.

• LED lights use very little power for the amount of light they emit and are consequently suitable to be left on all night.

• You can also install CFL globes if you are looking for a softer light. These globes come with a built-in motion sensor and can be installed the same way as you install an indoor globe.

• Consider getting your hands on the Magneto Solar Home Lighting System, which charges via both solar energy and AC cable. Once charged, it has three light settings, can keep an area illuminated for 18 hours on one charge, and charges mobile phones.

• You can also get the Eurolux Emergency Bulb Solar Light, an outdoor light bulb that stores solar energy in case of an emergency like load shedding.

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