The inspiration: Slept-in makeup, post-fight bruised skin, subversive beauty, Julia Fox, Doja Cat
As seen at: Moschino, Valentino, Avavav, Antonio Marras, Gypsy Sport
At Gypsy Sport, Valentino and Antonio Marras, there was a huge focus on temporary tattoos and piercings that added an edgy twist with zero commitment. Models’ pared-back coverage was given a severity by way of temporary tattoos applied to the entire face and faux piercings placed across brows, lips, noses, cheeks and ears. At Valentino, models were sent out with eyelinersuper-elongated spanningwings the whole temple, complemented with lip rings.
one are the days when the runways showed only one beauty standard. As inclusivity becomes more important, so does the representation of all types of beauty. With the influence of Gen Z continuing to govern social-media trends, we now live in an era that’s tired of the perfect “Victoria’s Secret model” kind of beauty. Instead, people want a more realistic look, as seen in TikTok trends such as faux freckles, dark-circle makeup and crying-girl makeup. With celebrities such as Julia Fox and Doja Cat constantly challenging the beauty standard with shaven heads, bleached eyebrows, hairy body parts and subversive makeup choices, one could say that we have entered an era of “anti-beauty”. The trend is not just about “looking ugly-beautiful”: at its core, it pushes for the celebration of self-expression, real beauty and man-repellent makeup, reclaiming the power to look however you want and not be governed by the male gaze. On the runways, amid a sea of fresh-faced, angelic beauties, there has been an exciting rise in anti-beauty looks that incorporate faux piercings, face tattoos and makeup applied in a way that unsettles the eye with its imperfect, colour-outsidethe-lines, smudged-up messiness.
At Avavav, skin embodied all the things you’d usually want to hide. With the help of special- effects techniques,makeupcoverage mimicked skin that looked tired, beaten up and rough. Some models sported sunken, dark circles, bruises or broken capillaries while others had fake broken noses, bloody nostrils and faux freckles.
At Moschino, smudged-up makeup stepped away from the considered, soft, diffused look we’ve been seeing and entered a territory that look messier and more worn. With patchy red lipstick barely clinging to the lip edges and creased eyeshadow cracking along the eyelids, makeup was made to look very lived-in.
OLFACTORY BUZZ: SUN, SEA, LAND
Maison Margiela Replica On A Date EDT 100ml, R2 700, arcstore.co.za
Marc Jacobs Daisy Wild EDP 100ml, R2 305, edgars.co.za
N EWS
Let Mother Nature inspire your beauty arsenal
with a few additions that
pay homage to dreamy, summer landscapes
JARDIN IMAGINAIRE
T he third collection from Chanel’s Cometes Collective is the perfect excuse to experiment with colour. Created by global creativemakeuppartner Ammy Drammeh, the Summer 2024 Makeup Collection is inspired by an imaginary garden. Bursting with rich hues of tangerine,chartreuse, violet and soft pink, it has dreamy textures and pearlescent finishes with a solar allure. Chanel Baume Essentiel in Solar Glow, R970; Chanel Stylo Ombre Et Contour in 50 Atardecer, R860; Chanel Exclusive Complexion Creation Blush and Highlighter Duo in Gold and Peach; Light and Berry, R1 505
Inspired by a sunset date on a summer’s evening overlooking the vineyards of Provence, this fruity floral scent is a must. With notes of bergamot, blackcurrant-liquor accord, patchouli essence and rose-petal essence, along with the juicy, sweet tartness of red grapes, it slowly settles into a lively, warm and sensual floral note of rose.
LFor all those times we’ve wanted to bottle the feeling of the ocean, Australian brand Goldfield & Banks has done us a solid with the creation of Pacific Rock Moss. Inspired by the sea spray from waves crashing against rocks, the scent is aquatic, zesty and aromatic with a composition of botanicals and essences — Australian coastal moss, lemon, sage, geranium and cedarwood.
We love a bunch of flowers any day, especially if it comes in the form of Marc Jacobs’s Daisy Wild, inspired by the outdoors and wildflower bouquets. From its playful bottle to its free-spirited floral scent profile, this fragrance is the picture of spring, with notes of banana-blossom accord, jasmine, macadamia accord, sandalwood and vetiver des sables.
ouis Vuitton’s collaboration with artist Alex Israel has been taking us on an olfactory journey along the Californian coast since 2019. Ocean BLVD, a three-dimensional pictorial stroll along an imaginary Los Angeles boulevard, features five colognes — Pacific Chill, On The Beach, City Of Stars, California Dream and Afternoon Swim — in a 2m-long sculpture crafted from Taurillon, Taiga and natural leather by 20 artisans over 500 hours. This installation showcases not only the fragrances but also the maison’s craftsmanship, born from its trunk-making heritage. louisvuitton.com
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Maison Margiela : 2.
Goldfield & Banks : 3.
MARC JACOBS :
BODY
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/ Swarovski Harmonia necklace, R9 300, Spilhaus; hooded maxi dress, R7 299; tank top, R3 699, both Diesel; holographic bandeau, R250; sequined panties, R390, both Georgie Rattle Apparel; shortie, R400, Bras N Things; Twenties comfort tights, R970, Wolford; pumps, R3 290, Europa Art
4. Docker beanie, R1 850, The Real Crystal Birch; Mabé pearl earrings, R154 000; pearl necklace with art deco clasp, R548 000; pearl necklace with white-diamond roses, R257 000, all Charles Greig; bracelets, model’s own; Gradient Amiri repeat bowling shirt, R5 550; crosshatch trousers, POR, both Amiri; Cole Haan ZeroGrand Outpace sneakers, R3 290, Europa Art
6. Mabé pearl earrings, R154 000; pearl necklace with art deco clasp, R548 000; pearl necklace with white-diamond roses, R257 000, all Charles Greig; crosshatch blazer, R10 800; crosshatch skater shorts, R6 900, both Amiri; socks, model’s own; Cole Haan ZeroGrand Outpace sneakers, R3 290, Europa Art
7. Mabé pearl earrings, R154 000; pearl necklace with art deco clasp, R548 000; pearl necklace with white-diamond roses, R257 000, all Charles Greig; shirt, R4 000, Ephymol; loose-fit contrast V-neck wool sweater, R5 695, Lacoste; leatherette shorts, R3 600, Ephymol; socks, model’s own; Cole Haan ZeroGrand Outpace sneakers, R3 290, Europa Art
One could easily look at Yuri George Pailman — an impressive 1.8m tall with laser-cut cheekbones and an unmarred complexion — and assume that his move into the fashion industry was obvious, inevitable and entirely purposeful. And yet, as I settle into a burgundy armchair in the in-house studio of modelling agency My Friend Ned, Pailman laughs, recalling his eight-year-old self’s plans to become a diplomat.
The 27-year-old model and talent booker is perched on a small stool opposite me, his long legs crossed, as he recalls the early days of his interest in fashion. Drawn in by the allure of Mexican telenovelas and encouraged by his mother’s love of accessorising, the eight-year-old Pailman “became obsessed with everything fashion related”. It wasn’t just the glamour that called to him but also the core human need for community. “I always tried to infiltrate the industry in some way when I was younger because I saw other queer people and I tried to find people like me.”
Waving a ring-clad hand, he recalls the first campaign he booked, an ice-lolly advert for the elections. “[I had to] take off a wig and that was a character, because I was so in the closet at the time that no one knew that I was gay, but I really wanted the role because I also resonated with [it]. I am a queer being. I remember that, while shooting it, I was so terrified for my family to finally see the ad… but once it came out, it helped me [come] out to my family.”
A certain level of emotional turbulence tends to accompany a queer individual’s revelation of their preferences to loved ones. Despite being what he jokingly refers to as “a kitchen child”, more interested in baking and TV romances than soccer, he noted his family’s hesitance during his coming out. “I think it comes from a place of fear rather than anything else. It’s more [that] they were scared of what I was going to experience, trying to protect me from the world, not knowing that I [would] have to go on this journey.”
Seven years later and Pailman’s otherworldly looks and passion for embodying a designer’s narrative have seen him model for brands such as Viviers Studio, Wanda Lephoto, Thebe Magugu and A Better Mistake, as well as Hunger Magazine. In every image, whether standing broad-shouldered in a suit or posing sultrily in false lashes and a wickedly sharp eyeliner, Pailman radiates confidence. His favourite work, however, is not the conventional. “The crazier the better,” he says with a laugh. “Especially this shoot felt like the representation of my soul rather than the outside of me. In a shoot, when someone has the craziest ideas [of what] to put me in, I am like, ‘Yes,’ because I feel like my soul is the most colourful part of me.”
His eyes sparkle as he explains his deep love for his work; for the storytelling, the performance and the dynamic collaborations needed to create. “The reason why I use the word ‘story’ is because it always comes from something,” he explains. “We’re all vastly different. We come from different backgrounds, but we meet at one place to create something. There’s a beauty in that.” As a queer South African and an advocate for alopecia awareness, Pailman brings a uniquely compassionate, cultured and insightful perspective to an industry known for its cut-throat tendencies. For this young model and creative, fashion and pride are intricately intermeshed as he builds both his career and himself. “Pride means more to the young me. It’s really for that child, because I never knew I could be who I am today. That was never in my plan. I had this curated [idea of] life for myself and I think pride is telling that boy that that’s not the direction you need to go. That, whatever you feel is your truth, you have to chase [that] rather than make sure your parents or other people are happy. Make sure that you are happy first and the rest will follow.”
1, 5. Mabé pearl earrings, R154 000; pearl necklace with art deco clasp, R548 000; pearl necklace with whitediamond roses, R257 000, all Charles Greig; sequin boucle shirt-jacket, R36 600, Amiri
2,3. Mabé pearl earrings, R154 000; pearl necklace with art deco clasp, R548 000; pearl necklace with whitediamond roses, R257 000, all Charles Greig; crosshatch blazer, R10 800; crosshatch skater shorts, R6 900, both Amiri; socks, model’s own; Cole Haan ZeroGrand Outpace sneakers, R3 290, Europa Art
ANDILE BUKA
1. “We made this in 2014. It was a different time in terms of South African fashion; a lot of young people were wearing suits, dressing up sartorially.”
2. “That’s my favourite set. They were done on the same day at around the same time, so, as much as the horse and Tshepo are prominent, the tree has the same weight.”
7. “The taxi rank is the heart of the city. This is where a lot of people meet, they get dispersed to wherever they work, they come back again and then they get dispersed to wherever they live.” 8-10. “For me, it’s the body language. They could be reminiscing or talking about how the city has changed. Photography allows you to imagine [that].”
3. “This is me. With my own family photographs, I didn’t want to make myself the centre of what I’m trying to do.”
4. “I’m fascinated by people. I’m fascinated by how they shape and change their environments or their surroundings. You’d be surprised at the stories they tell you, the conversations you have.”
5. “It’s always very jarring to be on set with these seasoned industry people and you are given the task to bring a vision to life. And it came out beautifully.”
6. “There’s weight to this photograph because there are these two gay guys in a male-dominated area and here you are, in 2015, shooting these two gay artists, but it worked out.”
