www.michel-herbelin.co.za | Stockist enquiries: (011) 448 2210 Michel Herbelin South Africa
@mherbelinsa
the art of luxury
ed’s letter
CREATIVE INSPIRATION
MALCOLM DARE
SHEENA BAGSHAWE
Which is your favourite gemstone? Tanzanite — it’s my birthstone. What is your dream watch? The Rolex Oyster Perpetual. What is your idea of luxury? A getaway in a five-star private game lodge.
Which is your favourite gemstone? Amirite and diaspore. What is your dream watch? The Santos de Cartier Galbée. What is your idea of luxury? Being able to take time to do simple things, or having the time to travel.
JENNY ANDREW
MATT MORLEY
Which is your favourite gemstone? I am a redhead and I adore emeralds! What is your dream watch? I am torn between the Ballon Bleu de Cartier
Which is your favourite gemstone? Bronzite, lapis lazuli, and opal. What is your dream watch? A classic
PHOTOGRAPHER
It all began with a painting…
EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR
W
WantedOnlineSA
WantedOnlineSA
WantedOnlineSA
and the Clé de Cartier. What is your idea of luxury? Time is the biggest luxury.
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
06
WRITER
minute repeater from Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. What is your idea of luxury? The time and means to travel the world.
LOUW KOTZE
THOMO SETSHOGO
Which is your favourite gemstone? As a set stone, the Alexandrite. What is your dream watch? A Breguet
Which is your favourite gemstone? It has to be an emerald. What is your dream watch? The Vanguard Skeleton by Franck Muller.
STYLIST
hand-engraved pocket watch. What is your idea of luxury? I feel very elegant eating slappies with Dom Perignon. Luxe is, after all, a state of mind.
WRITER
What is your idea of luxury? A really good cold Chardonnay, in the company of my favourite people and a stunning setting.
EDITOR’S PORTRAIT DAMON FOURIE; SHEENA BAGSHAWE PORTRAIT ANNA-BELLE DURRANT
Jacquie
STYLIST
C O N T R I BU TO R S
hen we started work on this beautiful magazine, I was feeling particularly enchanted and inspired by Cape Town artist Kurt Pio and the dramatic and graphic precious stone-inspired paintings of his Diamonds collection. Gazing deep into the heart of the most precious stone of all, Pio had unpacked all that sparkle onto gem-shaped canvases in a fashion that I bet Andy Warhol would have wished he’d thought of — creating a contemporary art series that has found favour far and wide. See our interview with Pio on page 12; he takes his gems to the US any day now. Buying art is a bit like choosing jewellery, or collecting watches. One person’s treasure is not necessarily the same as another’s. That’s why it’s been such a delight putting together this gentle guide to the “art” of luxury — showcasing the latest watch and jewellery designs and trends, and trusting that somewhere each of our readers will find the pieces that talk to them. It is something of an art, after all, knowing your own style, and committing to those pieces that best express your tastes. We’ve pretty much covered it all: from fine jewellery by the most famous maisons in the world, to intriguing pieces by our local jewellery rock stars, and the irreverent millennial approach to diamonds. We’ve also explored the realm of timepieces, from the most complicated watches that dreams are made of, right through to the stylish designs that are must-haves in every collection. For some watch lovers, the ultimate luxury will be laying your hands on a Rolex with its new generation movement, or the limited edition Breitling Navitimer. For design lovers, it’s going to be the new take on the iconic Movado Museum watch, and for those with sporty style, the hypnotic Omega Planet Ocean Deep Black collection cannot be launched soon enough. And I’ll bet there are more women than men who covet a larger than life Panerai or TW Steel timepiece... This year the most dramatic jewellery news has been the launch of the first Bulgari boutique in Africa. Others will be delighted with the fact that the Nom Nom necklaces from Elegance Jewellers are now being made with black pebbles as well as blue! So follow your art — we have no doubt you’ll find your own brand of luxury somewhere on these pages.
12 Kurt Pio’s hypnotic diamond paintings
58 The watch shapes and straps of the season
82
24 PAPER TRAIL
102 Bulgari brings la dolce vita to SA
The latest timepieces to covet
104 112 What to buy when you’re starting a collection
16 MASTER PIECES
Jewels that dreams are made of
All you need to know to keep your life luxurious
Contemporary jewellery for a new generation
I S S U E 143
The making of five magnificent covers
62 GOLD PLATED The allure of glittering gold and sparkling stones
114 Summer’s most beautiful scents
118 Where to find luxury
119 Win a Nom Nom necklace worth R30 000
120 Understanding watch certifications
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
08
W J L E D I T I O N 2016/17
10
I N S I D E LU X U RY
contents
EDITOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly (jacquie@mwebbiz.co.za) MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure 011 280 5605 or 082 446 0747 (mcclurem@bdfm.co.za) ART DIRECTOR Megan Guyt BEAUTY EDITOR Mathahle Stofile (stofilem@timesmedia.co.za) SUBEDITOR Ann Baker-Keulemans FINAL EYE Theresa Mallinson EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR Sheena Bagshawe EDITORIAL INTERN Lerato Mokgomong CONTRIBUTORS Jenny Andrew Malcolm Dare Matt Morley Louw Kotze Thomo Setshogo Elizabeth Bosman BUSINESS DAY EDITOR Tim Cohen PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER Print and Digital Reardon Sanderson GENERAL MANAGER Group Sales Trevor Ormerod MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill BUSINESS MANAGER & ADVERTISING HEAD Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 (shaffy@timesmedia.co.za) ADVERTISING ASSISTANT Yvette Mehl 021 439 4907 (yvette@yvonneshaff.co.za) Wanted is available with Business Day nationwide, to subscribers only. Subscription enquiries: 0860 262 626 Printed by Paarl Media for Times Media (Pty) Ltd, 4 Biermann Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg
D E L A I R E G R A F F E S TAT E , H E L S H O O G T E PA S S , S T E L L E N B O S C H , S O U T H A F R I C A + 27 21 885 8160 GRAFFDIAMONDS.COM
behind the scenes
the artof the
COVER C
REATING FIVE EXQUISITE covers for the annual edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury was no mean feat. It took the Wanted production team from our favourite Johannesburg studios to a top-secret location in the Stellenbosch winelands where, in some cases, precious jewels were flown into the country just for the day to be photographed. Red carpet jewellery doesn’t come our way that often, but this time we had the privilege five times over! Working with some of the most beautiful — and valuable — jewellery in the world truly is the stuff that fairy tales are made of. May you all live luxuriously ever after.
photography MALCOLM DARE
photography MALCOLM DARE
She wears: Serpenti earrings, R256 000; Serpenti necklace, R1 100 000; Serpenti bracelet, R279 000; Serpenti ring, rose gold with diamonds and mother of pearl, R140 000; Serpenti ring, yellow gold with mother of pearl, R65 000; Serpenti ring, rose gold with diamonds, R98 000, all Bulgari. Dress, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla He wears: Bulgari Caliber BVL 328 Velocissimo watch, 41.5mm, stainless steel and 18k rose gold case and bracelet, R217 600, all Bulgari. Tuxedo, Row-G
Red Carpet stackable bangles, 34.5cts in total, price on request; Red Carpet long baguette earrings, 18.61cts in total, price on request; Red Carpet diamond hairpin, 6.37cts in total, price on request, all Forevermark. Dress, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
PRODUCTION TEAM PHOTOGRAPHY MALCOLM DARE AND SASHA WALDMAN AT INFIDELS STYLIST LOUW KOTZE HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY AT LAMPOST, USING MAC AND MERLE TITUS NAIL TECHNICIAN JESSIE-LEIGH SCOTT MODELS KIA, DJ, AND ANNA AT
FANJAM, JENNA AT ICE MODELS, MIAS AT FUSION PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS HUGH FROST AND TIMOTHY GERGES STYLIST’S ASSISTANT PETRONELLA ROUX SHOT ON LOCATION AT FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND DELAIRE-GRAFF ESTATE
photography SASHA WALDMAN AT INFIDELS
photography SASHA WALDMAN AT INFIDELS
She wears: Perles Impériales rose gold earrings with 20 diamonds and two Tahitian pearls, price on request; Perles Impériales rose gold ring with 27 diamonds and a Tahitian pearl, price on request; Perles Impériales timepiece with diamond-set bezel and Tahitian pearl dial, diamond-set flange, diamond set-caseband, diamond-set chaton, and diamond-set crown, price on request, all by Breguet. Dress from Callaghan Collezione He wears: Gents La Musicale watch, 18k rose gold case and leather strap, chiming La Badinerie by J.S Bach, R1 003 900, Breguet. Tuxedo, Row-G
White round diamond pavé-set triple butterfly cluster earrings with white marquise diamond centre, price on request; Butterfly necklace set with white round and marquise-shaped diamonds, price on request; white round diamond and fancy shape butterfly motif watch, price on request, all Graff Diamonds. Dress, Callaghan Collezione
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
10
photography MALCOLM DARE Foliage earrings, Zambian emeralds and round white diamonds set in 18k white gold, price on request, Fabergé for Gemfields; 15.3ct Emerald tennis necklace, R350 500, Elegance Jewellers for Gemfields; Emerald necklace in yellow gold, R42 735, Aya for Gemfields. Dress, Wolford
art Q: What inspired the Diamonds collection? The gems started in early 2011, when I was doing an artist’s residency in Amsterdam. They grew from patterns I started drawing each day, until they began to resemble diamonds. Being far away from home, and a bit homesick, I looked back and started exploring more of my own country’s natural resources. The idea of taking a faceted object and then reproducing it onto a shaped canvas took about two years, and in the early days of these artworks, no one really showed any interest. But I enjoyed the pieces and so I kept making them.
luxury
Who could fail to be transported by the hypnotic gemstone paintings by Cape Town artist Kurt Pio? His latest collection will shortly be on exhibit in New Orleans in the US
the ART of
Q: And then it took off… At first I received attention from the diamond and jewellery industry locally and internationally, even getting invited to show my work in Antwerp, Belgium — the diamond cutting capital of the world — in September 2015. Then there was interest from art collectors and fans. Without mentioning my clients’ names, I can tell you that my works have found homes in collections in America, Europe, Australia, Africa, China, Malaysia, and the Middle East, as well as being owned by a royal family from a certain country. Q: In the beginning you painted only diamonds, yet your latest pieces are of emeralds. Are you going to do all the precious gems? At first I focused only on clear cut diamonds and then, after a while, I started exploring the “fancy” stones, such as the canary yellows, champagnes, blues, and greens. I will stay with the emeralds right now, as I am totally stuck on this beautiful emerald green colour and love it. I want to surround myself with it, paint whole rooms in my home with it, and wear it. Q: The magic is clearly catching. Can you explain the appeal of this unique art? I think the pieces are different, and also a mixture of painting and a bit of sculpture. I think people like the idea of taking a tiny precious object and blowing it up to such a size that it almost becomes abstract. I also have to mention that I have had several suitors from a non-traditional background who have proposed to their partners with one of my paintings instead of with a real diamond. With it being a leap year this year, and women being able to ask their partners to marry them, and it being rare for men to wear diamond rings, the idea of a diamond gift or painting was, therefore, more appealing in this situation. Q: What effect does the sparkle of a beautiful gemstone have on you? It creates a childlike excitement within me, like seeing a bit of magic, or the first time you see a rainbow reflecting from a crystal. Q: Where can we see any of these pieces? My next exhibition, showcasing my Gems and Champagne Bottles collection, will be in New Orleans, US, at Gallery Orange, from November 12 2016. I also do commissions on these pieces from my studio in Cape Town. Look out for me on Instagram, @kurtpio, for all my latest work and news on my upcoming shows.
kurtpio.co.za
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
12
L u 0 er::: <( l'.)
> _J
O'.l
ROMA DIAMOND WALK. SANDTON CITY. 011 883 1325
SERPENTI
She wears: Top; skirt, both Ermanno Scervino at Catheryne Gaeyla; citrine necklace worn on wrist, Elegance Jewellers; handbag, VanaShree; heels, Europa Art Shoes He wears: Shirt; shoes, both Kurt Geiger; suit, Ermenegildo Zegna; tie, Thomas Pink
www.mbworld.co.za
high jewellery
G R A F F D I A M O N D S G
raff Diamonds is arguably the most famous London-based jewellery house. Graff is involved in every stage of the jewellery making process â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from the sourcing of each rough stone through to the cutting, polishing, and final setting of each exquisite jewel. Graff has 50 stores around the world, including its flagship Africa boutique on the Delaire Graff wine estate in Stellenbosch. Throughout its rich history, Graff is said to have handled more diamonds of rarity, magnitude, and distinction than any other jeweller. Diamond and sapphire pendant from the Graff Diamonds Sunburst Collection
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
16
F
high jewellery
master
P I EC E S LEADING LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY HOUSES ARE CREATING EXQUISITE MODERN CLASSICS TO BE WORN AND ADMIRED BY ALL
B U L G A RB I Charles Greig, Elegance Jewellers, Shemer, Shimansky Photography MALCOLM DARE Bulgari, Graff, Forevermark images SUPPLIED
ulgari, the master of coloured gemstones, is arguably Italy’s best-known jeweller, and its designs are often inspired by Bulgari’s home town of Rome. Unapologetically bold, Bulgari jewellery shines with colour, and collections are immediately recognisable by the presence of emeralds, sapphires, and rubies alongside sparkling diamonds, with its high jewellery pieces often featuring Bulgari’s signature cabochon gemstones.
The Bulgari Giardini Italiani pendant necklace in diamonds and emeralds, featuring a 6.32ct emerald centrepiece
17
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
high jewellery
F A B E R G E
F
abergé, founded in 1842, is known for its heritage as the official jeweller to the Russian Imperial Court, and as the name behind those lavishly embellished Imperial Easter eggs. Today, Fabergé continues to work with the world’s finest coloured gemstones to create unique and original designs, as well as award-winning jewelled timepieces.
Impératrice ruby tassel pendant, featuring round rubies, round white diamonds, and ruby beads, set in 18k white gold
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
18
high jewellery
F O R E V E R M A R K F
orevermark is the diamond brand from the De Beers Group of Companies, and red carpet stars have consistently showcased the sparkling glamour that comes with more than 127 years of diamond expertise. Every Forevermark diamond carries a unique inscription that is an assurance it meets exceptional standards of beauty and rarity, and is responsibly sourced. Less than 1% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diamonds carry this unique microscopic inscription, which is 1/5000th the width of a human hair.
Diamond cuff by jewellery designer Jade Trau, featuring a 12.06ct Forevermark Exceptional Diamond
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
20
In our constant pursuit of absolute beauty, every Forevermark diamond undergoes a journey of rigorous selection. This is why less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are worthy of the Forevermark inscription – our promise of beauty, rarity and responsible sourcing.
© Forevermark 2016. Forevermark®,
® and
™ are Trade Marks used under licence from The De Beers Group of Companies.
It’s a long journey to become the one.
CR0806 FM Ad - WANTED FIN.indd 1
Find an authorised jeweller at Forevermark.com
24/08/2016 5:53 pm
high jewellery
SHEMER 18k gold earrings with black diamonds and white pearls, Shemer Jewellers
ELE
GANC 18ct yell
ow diam
CHARLES GREIG Four-claw handcrafted solitaire diamond ring, set with a 16ct radiant cut diamond in 18k rose and white gold, Charles Greig
SHIMANSKY Intense fancy yellow 4.8ct diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, flanked by two 1ct D colour diamonds set in platinum, Shimansky
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
22
ond and
rose cut sapphire ring, Ele gance Je wellers
E
TEL 011 622 4735 ADDRESS SHOP U9, BEDFORD CENTRE, BEDFORDVIEW www.shemer.co.za
watch
STATEMENT MAKER AND TIMEKEEPER, A WATCH IS MORE THAN MERE ADORNMENT, ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S AN INVESTMENT photography MALCOLM DARE styling JENNY ANDREW paper artist ELIZABETH BOSMAN text SHEENA BAGSHAWE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, 41mm, steel and Everose gold with diamond dial, R183 700
PAPER
trail
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
24
watch
Clockwise from top left: IWC Pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watch Double Chronograph Edition Le Petit Prince, 44mm, stainless steel case and brown calfskin strap, R146 000; Panerai Luminor Marina 8 days, 44mm, titanium case, R104 400; IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Expedition Charles Darwin, 44mm, bronze and rubber strap, R159 000; Drive de Cartier, 40mm, 18k rose gold case and leather strap, R292 000
25
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
watch From left: Patek Philippe Gentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Annual Calender, 38.5mm, rose gold with brown alligator strap, price on request; Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, 40mm, pink gold case, R490 000; Breguet La Musicale, 48mm 18k rose gold case and rotating platinum plated dial, R1 003 900
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
26
L U M I N O R S U B M E R S I B L E 1 9 50 C A R B OT EC H T M 3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C - 4 7 M M ( R E F. 6 1 6 )
P A N E R A I . C O M
watch
Blancpain Quantieme Complet, Demi-Savonnette, 40mm, 18k rose gold, R322 900; Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Small Duetto, 34.2mm, pink gold and diamond finish, R234 000
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
28
AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.
ROYAL OAK K OFFSHORE E CHRONOGRAPH RAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL
JOHANNESBURG · CAPE TOWN
watch
Clockwise from left: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster, 39mm, in Everose gold with aubergine diamond dial, R826 300; Patek Philippe Ladies Annual Calendar, 38mm, white gold with blue strap, price on request; Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon, 39mm, pink gold case, R680 000 W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
30
watch
Patek Philippe Aquanaut, 40.8mm, rose gold case with tropical rubber strap, price on request
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
32
The superlative-charged chronograph. 50 mm case in BreitlightÂŽ. Exclusive Manufacture Breitling Caliber B12 with 24-hour military-style display. Officially chronometer-certified.
086 100 1884 info@breitling.co.za
BREITLING.COM
AvengerHurricane_210x265.indd 1
2016/08/22 10:15 AM
watch
Clockwise from left: Rolex Cellini Dual Time, 39 mm, 18k white gold case and leather strap with an 18k white gold buckle, R249 900; IWC Pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watch Automatic, 36mm, stainless steel case and leather strap, R68 600; Blancpain Quantieme Complet, 35mm, mother-ofpearl dial set with diamonds, steel case and leather strap, R141 100
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
34
watch
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider, 47mm, black titanium case, R4 375 000
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
36
HEUER MONZA
TAG Heuer Boutiques; Sandton City & V&A Waterfront. Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide. For further information please call 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za
FIFTH GENERATION JEWELLERS AND PURVEYORS OF
FINE TIME PIECES SINCE 1899
The Charles Greig brand has been synonymous with fine time keeping for 117 years, ever since the arrival of the Scottish Clockmaker Charles Greig, in the gold rush town of Johannesburg in the late 1880’s. His son, Charles Hector, relocated the business from Bree Street to fashionable downtown Market Street opposite the Carlton Hotel. Grandson, David, who was at the helm of the business for 40 years, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel, Switzerland and on his return to South Africa in 1949, introduced Rolex, Jaeger LeCoultre and Omega. David’s three sons - Christopher, Donald and Richard - entered the business in the 1980’s and have proudly continued the Charles Greig legacy, introducing the Richemont brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and Mont Blanc. Donald’s daughter Tamsin, joined the business in 2015 as a fifth generation family member. Collectively, the four Charles Greig stores carry a superior selection of Swiss watch brands.
www.charlesgreig.co.za CAPE TOWN 021 418 4515
JOHANNESBURG 011 325 4477
SANDTON 011 883 9393
PRETORIA 012 460 7415
Selectively available
watch
Omega Ladymatic, 34mm, yellow gold case and bracelet, R477 000
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
40
KHAKI NAVY FROGMAN AUTOMATIC SWISS MADE
watch
From top: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sedna Black, 44.25mm, black ceramic case and black strap, R185 000; Bulgari Carbon Gold, 40mm, carbon gold case, black dial and leather strap, R53 000; Breitling Avenger Hurricane, 50mm, Breightlight case and military rubber strap, R135 100; Cartier de Santos 100, 41.3mm, steel and amorphous diamond-like carbon case and calfskin strap, R115 000 W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6
00
watch
n rba rU e k nd l a se Wa er, ime teel ca al Tim T c s u n ; s a D l s e 500 nle ntb stai rChrom , R39 alve Mo , : t f v le pe mm rap rom ph, 43 do Hy and st helium ssima a se f a i e r la h R s t g w i ; r a 0 c her w ie ck no erc leat Clo hro R73 90 ramic ium M C n n a e w d t & c e ti ro p, e Spe m, db um stra tech her rey hi- n, 46m 00; Ba ase an c leat a 9 g l m, ogm R22 ss stee 42m lton Fr case, le n i i l a t e Ham ed bez mm, s r 40 , c i and at om 9 600 Aut 2 , p R stra
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
44
watch
From left: Longines Heritage 1918, 41mm, stainless steel case and honeycomb alligator leather strap, R22 000; Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze, 43mm, bronze case and leather strap, R56 740; Michel Herbelin Newport Yacht Club Squelette, 33mm, stainless steel case and leather strap, R33 250 W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
46
watch
From top: Michel Herbelin Citadines Automatic, 41mm, stainless steel case and leather strap, R15 500; Buren, 42mm, rose gold case and brown leather strap, R1 795; Tissot Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s T-Sport, 29.8mm, rose gold and stainless steel, R9 750
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
48
Cut loose, be bold and let the good times roll. This new Maverick MS14 features a big caliber chrono movement, a black sandwich dial with luminous green indexes and a cognac vintage leather strap with Quick Change Construction.
watch
From top: Ferrari RedRev T, 44mm, silicone strap, R4 250; Guess Connect, 45mm, rose gold case and silicone strap, R5 695
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
50
From left: TW Steel Maverick, 48mm, stainless steel case and genuine leather strap, R11 950; Hugo Boss Jackson Ultra Slim, 40mm, stainless steel case and brown genuine leather strap, R3 650; Rotary Tradition Burlington, 40mm, stainless steel case and leather strap, R12 950 W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
52
PHOTOGRAPHER MALCOLM DARE; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT L’MRIE ERASMUS; PRODUCTION AND STYLIST’S ASSISTANT SHEENA BAGSHAWE; STYLIST JENNY ANDREW; INTERN LERATO MOKGOMONG
watch
watch
ht rt Yac ewpo N strap, n i e and erbel s H a l eel c e l ich ess st stee stainl top: M , stainless , m m o r m F m , 38 33.5m egacy Club, tary L o R ; 0 50 9 50 R16 7 ap, R nd str a e s ca
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
54
watch
Clockwise from top: Calvin Klein Color watch, 40mm, sandblasted black aluminium case and silicone strap, R2 800; Swatch Popmoving, 45mm, plastic case and silicone strap, R1 100; Swatch Popdancing, 45mm, plastic case and silicone strap, R1 100
55
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
She wears: Jumpsuit, Paul Joe at Catheryne Gaeyla; coral necklaces, all Elegance Jewellers; belt, Kenzo at Catheryne Gaeyla; sandals, Tosoni at Spitz He wears: Blazer, Gant; T-shirt; trousers, both 100% Capri; sandals, Kurt Geiger at Spitz
www.mbworld.co.za
trend
watch
TRENDS for 2016 T
Keep an eye out for these bold, distinctive, and exciting new trends text MATT MORLEY
ALK TO WATCH executives in Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong and you’ll hear that Swiss watch exports are down due to the strong Swiss franc, the ongoing anti-corruption campaign in China, and the threat of terrorism in France keeping high-spending tourists away from Europe. Only the African continent, followed by South America, is currently in a growth phase for Swiss watch purchases, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. From a product perspective however, this has been a comparatively bright year, with a number of bold new collections, collaborations, and collector’s items coming to market. Cartier led the way with the launch of a distinctive, cushion-shaped watch called the Drive in a full suite of variations. Most brands would phase these additional models in over several years, starting with the entry level and gradually adding complications, diamonds, and so on. Not so at Cartier. From day one in the life of the Drive we have stainless steel and rose gold editions, with white, grey, or black dials in three versions: hours and minutes only, a second time zone and day/night indicator, and a flying tourbillon. The rose gold iterations are shown here, with the white dial and brown leather strap making for an elegant match with the Roman numerals and vintage styling. There is only a marginal price difference between the hours and minutes model and its big brother with two additional indications; some may prefer the simplicity of the former as the latter’s dial is undeniably busy. It is with the high-end Flying Tourbillon that the Drive truly finds its groove, picking up a prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification for its aesthetic detailing. Graff is a comparatively niche player in the watch market, yet it too played a strong card this year. The release of its Vendôme collection celebrates the launch of a stunning new Graff boutique on Paris’s prestigious Place Vendôme, arguably the most desirable address in the luxury industry. The collection, which takes its design cues from the shape of the iconic landmark is available in both men’s and women’s ranges, in white or rose gold, with blue, black, or brown dials. Our attention was immediately drawn to the more colourful iterations set with sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. At 30mm for ladies, these bright and cheerful yet high-end timepieces stand apart from the more sober diamond versions. Powered by a quartz battery and displaying just hours and minutes, each precious stone variation is paired with a matching alligator leather strap. Jaeger-LeCoultre also played the colour card this year, but in a very different way, working alongside eclectic French designer Christian Louboutin to create a commemorative edition of the iconic Reverso watch for the brand’s 85th anniversary. An unlikely pairing in many ways but, it turns out, a clever one.
Drive de Cartier in rose gold, prices on request, cartier.com
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
58
trend French designer Christian Louboutin
The release of its Vendôme collection celebrates the launch of a stunning new Graff boutique on Paris’s prestigious Place VendÔme Ladies Graff Vendôme in sapphire, ruby, or emerald; prices on request, graffdiamonds.com, delaire.co.za
59
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
trend
The previously rather subdued Reverso model has been pushed and pulled in a variety of new creative directions and it seems to have enjoyed the ride Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso by Christian Louboutin, price on request, jaeger-lecoultre.com
The previously rather subdued Reverso model has been pushed and pulled in a variety of new creative directions and it seems to have enjoyed the ride. Shown here is a brightly coloured iridescent strap, paired with a standard Reverso face on one side and a similarly exuberant iridescent dial on the reverse, framed by diamonds above and below. This type of palette is virgin territory for the Reverso and only a man such as Louboutin could have led Jaeger-LeCoultre so far out of its comfort zone; the Frenchman’s name brings added allure and, of course, ensures this limited edition is likely to be a sell-out before its 12 months in the boutiques are up. Unlike in fashion, where definite trends in colour and style are common each season, in watches these things generally move at a far slower pace and are restricted to more practical elements, such as case size and thickness, rather than dial or strap colour. In this light, Panerai’s launch of four blue dialed watches for 2016 has more to do with the brand’s internal connections with sailing, diving, and nautical lifestyle than any external trend factors. A distinctive blue satin finish gives each of the dials depth and character, and when paired with a blue alligator or vintage brown leather strap, it’s a timeless, nautical look that brilliantly treads the line between formal and casual. Think of it like a tailored blazer worn with an open collared shirt in true Italian style. The foursome is made up of a 42mm Luminor 1950 3-days GMT Automatic in stainless steel, a 47mm Radiomir 1940 3-days in stainless steel, a 44mm Luminor 1950 10-days GMT Automatic in stainless steel, and a 45mm Radiomir 1940 10-days GMT in red gold. The last of these is truly exceptional, showing the marine blue at its finest matched against the red gold case to brilliant effect.
Panerai Blue dial collection, prices on request, panerai.com
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
60
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
MY
K
luxury
gold PLATED Layers of luxurious gems, precious metals, and showstopper timepieces are all on the menu for a look that oozes glamour photography MALCOLM DARE styling LOUW KOTZE
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
62
luxury RIGHT HAND: Clip-on broad bangle with tube-set diamonds in 18k yellow gold, R171 600; curb link bracelet with three tube-set faceted citrines, 77.26tcw, in 18k yellow gold, R345 000; tube-set bangle with garnet and amethyst in 18k yellow gold, R56 000; faceted Madeira citrine double four-claw set Santa Fe dress ring in 18k yellow gold, R39 200; diamond and faceted double four-claw set citrine dress ring in 18k yellow gold, R61 800, all Charles Greig LEFT HAND: Double four-claw set square ametrine dress ring in 18k rose gold, R65 800; bee and faceted citrine double four-claw set dress ring in 9k yellow gold, R36 000; four-claw handcrafted solitaire diamond ring set with a 16ct radiant cut diamond in 18k rose and white gold, price on request; PavĂŠ diamond link necklace in 18k yellow and white gold, worn as bracelet, R346 000, all Charles Greig Dress, R51 200, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
63
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
luxury
Red Carpet diamond cluster earrings, 4.11tcw; Red Carpet diamond choker necklace, 14.65ct, all Forevermark at Carat Co RIGHT HAND: Red Carpet diamond cocktail ring 5.72ct, Forevermark at Carat Co LEFT HAND: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster watch, 39mm, Everose gold with aubergine diamond dial, R826 300 Dress, R19 350, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
64
luxury
LEFT HAND: Fancy yellow flower ring in 18k twotoned gold with 1.61tcw pear-shaped fancy yellow diamonds and 0.72tcw round brilliant cut pavé set diamonds, from R129 000; ring in18k two tone with 1.19ct fancy yellow diamond and 0.41tcw round brilliant cut diamonds, from R94 900, both Shimansky RIGHT HAND: Patek Philippe ladies’ Twenty~4 watch, 25.1mm x 30mm, rose gold case and bracelet, price on request; morganite tennis bracelet, R48 750, Shemer Jewellers for Gemfields IN BOWL: Fancy yellow flower earrings, 18k two tone with 2.79tcw pear-shaped fancy yellow diamonds and 0.78tcw round brilliant cut pavé set diamonds, from R204 600, Shimansky
00
65
W J L ED IT IO N 2W 0 1J6L /ED 1 7IT IO N 2 0 1 6
luxury Moraglione mop milky and lilac quartz and diamonds earrings in 18k rose gold, R94 500; Moraglione mop milky and lilac quartz and diamonds pendant in 18k rose gold, R89 500, all Shemer Jewellers RIGHT HAND: Moraglione bangles with ten diamonds totalling 0.34ct in 18k rose gold, R93 695; Moraglione mop milky and lilac quartz and diamonds ring in 18k rose gold, R 71 855, both Shemer Jewellers LEFT HAND: Moraglione rock crystal sapphires and diamonds ring in 18k white gold, R104 490; pear-shaped ring set with 4.21ct morganite and 28 diamonds, 0.26tcw, in 18k rose gold, R39 750, both Shemer Jewellers Dress, R22 900, Ermanno Scervino at Catheryne Gaeyla
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
66
OUT of
AFRICA DISCOVER AUTHENTIC LUXURY, TIMELESS TRUST AND ENDURING VALUE WITH MINTED BARS AND MEDALLIONS
N
othing quite compares to the timeless beauty and natural wealth represented by that most precious of resources: pure gold. For as long as any of us can remember, gold has been a symbol of wealth, success, trust, love, commitment and performance. Now it is possible for you to truly own your own piece of gold, through an investment in minted bars from Metal Concentrators – and ensure an investment that already has a globally established monetary value. Gold bars satisfy the five requirements necessary to be viewed as money: They are a medium of exchange, they are easily recognisable, they are divisible, and they
are a store of value and can eliminate debt. They are also internationally tradable and are extremely liquid. With their inherent beauty, security and significant value – coupled with the ultimate assurance of tangible wealth – 24ct gold bars represent the ultimate in authentic luxury. Discerning investors shop at www.metcon.co.za – South Africa’s unique online precious metals boutique. All bars have been refined by the country’s largest independent precious metal refiner, Metal Concentrators SA (Pty) Ltd (Metcon).
For personal assistance call: Melynda Ward (021) 510-0770 or visit www.metcon.co.za
luxury Diva’s dream earrings, R70 000; Diva’s Dream short necklace, R117 000; B.zero1 necklace, R85 000; Diva’s Dream long necklace, R189 000, all Bulgari RIGHT HAND: Diva’s Dream bangle, R109 000; Diva’s Dream bracelet, R70 000; B.zero1 bangle with diamonds, R229 000; Diva’s dream ring with diamonds, R58 000; B.zero1 ring, R81 999; Diva’s Dream ring, R42 000, all Bulgari LEFT HAND: B.zero1 ring, R81 999; B.zero1 bangle, R54 000, both Bulgari; Breitling Galactic 36 Automatic watch, 18k rose gold case with black leather strap, R348 500 Dress, R32 850, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
OPPOSITE PAGE RIGHT HAND: 1.6ct emerald and diamond ring, R326 000; 8.51ct emerald and platinum ring, R745 600; 12.85ct emerald tennis bracelet, R270 000, all Elegance Jewellers for Gemfields; 3.46ct emerald and diamond ring, R86 500, Shemer Jewellers for Gemfields LEFT HAND: 1.57ct emerald and diamond ring, R83 375, Shemer Jewellers for Gemfields; 1.06ct emerald full eternity ring, R66 900, Elegance Jewellers for Gemfields; 3.70ct emerald and diamond pave ring, R390 000, Vienna Jewellers for Gemfields; 2.64ct emerald and diamond ring, R605 000, Tracey’s Diamonds for Gemfields Dress, R22 900, Ermanno Scervino at Catheryne Gaeyla
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
68
luxury
00
69
W J L ED IT IO N 2W 0 1J6L /ED 1 7IT IO N 2 0 1 6
18k rose gold double heart earrings with one round floating 0.05ct diamond in each earring, R49 810; chain of hearts necklace, 18k rose gold heart pendant with three round floating diamonds, 0.15ctw, R116 620; Happy Diamonds necklace, 18k rose gold with one floating 0.05ct diamond in each of the three small hearts, R108 630, all Chopard RIGHT HAND: Happy Diamonds ring, 18k yellow gold with one floating 0.05ct diamond, R23 970; Happy Hearts bracelet, 18k rose gold, diamond and mother of pearl, R56 610, all Chopard LEFT HAND: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ladies’ automatic watch, 37mm, 18k pink gold case and bracelet with a silver-toned dial, and date, and bezel set with 40 brilliant cut diamonds 0.88ctw in total, R805 100; morganite and diamond rose gold ring, 2.8ct, R31 500; morganite and diamond rose gold ring, 5.9ct, R45 950, both Olga Jewellers for Gemfields; 1.7ct morganite and diamond rose gold ring, R23 250, Shemer Jewellers for Gemfields Fragrance Enchanted Golden Absolute Chopard EDP, 75ml, R1 795 Dress, R72 600, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
70
PHOTOGRAPHER MALCOLM DARE; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT HUGH FROST; STYLIST LOUW KOTZE; HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST LESLEY WHITBY AT LAMPOST, USING MAC; NAIL TECHNICIAN JESSIE-LEIGH SCOTT; MODEL SAM AT FANJAM; STYLIST’S ASSISTANT PETRONELLA ROUX; LOCATION THE FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL; CUTLERY AND CROCKERY SPILHAUS
luxury
6787
M A D E
I N
I TA LY
E X C L U S I V E T O S E L E C T S P I T Z S T O R E S . V I S I T W W W. S P I T Z . C O . Z A
fashion luxury
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
72
luxury
Piaget Rose diamond earrings in 18k rose gold, R86 760, Elegance Jewellers LEFT HAND: Piaget One Only ring with 184 diamonds in yellow gold, R188 800; Piaget Possession diamond ring in 18k rose gold, R80 100, both Elegance Jewellers RIGHT HAND: Piaget Rose necklace in 18k rose gold, worn as bracelet, R131 310; Piaget Rose diamond ring in 18k rose gold, R69 760; both Elegance Jewellers Dress, R25 200, Roberto Cavalli at Catheryne Gaeyla
73
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
She wears: Dress, Paul Smith; necklace; bracelet, both Elegance Jewellers; heels, Tosoni at Spitz He wears: Three-piece suit, shirt, and tie, Row-G; shoes, Europa Art Shoes
www.mbworld.co.za
platinum
the love metal S
AYING “I LOVE YOU” with a gift of platinum jewellery is increasingly becoming the norm in India and China. This trend is encouraged with innovative marketing initiatives by the world’s leading producer of the precious metal, South Africa’s Anglo American Platinum. “These two markets have the highest growth potential for platinum jewellery,” says CEO Chris Griffith. This is due to their large young, upwardly mobile, urban populations experiencing growth in disposable income. This dynamic group is open to new ideas and have taken to platinum as the so-called “love metal” to express their feelings for one another. In China, for example, 70% of non-bridal platinum jewellery buying is love-related gifting by partners, parents, children and friends. Only 26% are people buying jewellery items for themselves. Interestingly, in cities like Shanghai and Beijing, 60% of young modern and sophisticated couples acquiring wedding rings are opting for platinum. Because of the emotional connection to the metal as a gift of love, this segment of the market is less affected by economic downturns and has huge growth potential. According to a recent survey, 79% of respondents regard platinum as the “symbol of love” compared to pure gold, which was rated second by 35% of respondents. The potential Chinese market for platinum jewellery is enormous. The estimated 11 million consumers who buy about 16 million pieces – at an average of 1.4 pieces per person – per annum represents only 5% of the Chinese urban female population between the ages of 18 and 54 years. Add to that the extraordinary potential of the Indian market, and the future for platinum jewellery is bright indeed. India, the world’s oldest civilisation, is home to one of the planet’s youngest populations, with 70% younger than 45 years of age. The rapidly changing dynamics in Indian society and innovative marketing has led to the adoption of platinum jewellery as a love symbol. This has seen the market increasing tenfold in less than a decade – from 16 000 ounces in 2008 to
Anglo American Platinum is driving a new-found love for platinum in India
Anglo American Platinum CEO Chris Griffith
The everlasting bond of love is at the heart of every Evara design
175 000 ounces in 2015 – with significant potential for further growth. About 60% of this market is made up of weddingrelated platinum jewellery purchases. Anglo American Platinum’s wholly-owned Platinum Guild International India (PGI India) has launched the exquisite Evara Platinum Blessings collection; jewellery that places platinum at the very heart of the wedding ceremony. Evara is rooted in Sanskrit and means blessings – a gifted jewellery set from the bride’s parents to the bride and groom, carrying with it the platinum promise of everlasting love. The everlasting bond of love is at the heart of every Evara design, as each piece has a unique platinum bond that holds together multiple strands of platinum, symbolic of the couple and their two families coming together to create a beautiful new relationship. This range of jewellery offers an ideal opportunity for the parents and family to bless the bridal couple’s marriage by the giving of platinum jewellery, which is designed so that it can be worn beyond just the wedding day. Importantly, every time the bride wears her Evara jewellery she will be carrying her parents’ love and blessings with her. In India many marriages are still arranged, so the couple will not necessarily have gotten to know each other all that well before they experience the traditional wedding, an occasion where their families come together, and wealth is transferred, mostly in the form of jewellery. Recognising the couple discovering their love for each other at a later stage, PGI India is promoting the exchange of Platinum Love Bands on their “Platinum Day of Love”, a moment in time when the couple celebrate their affection and love for one another by exchanging these rings. Symbolically, these two platinum jewellery collections are defining a place for platinum jewellery that is both personal and emotional, and it is highly differentiated from gold. These market development initiatives in India have already seen a surge in platinum sales, forecasted to deliver a market demand of around 500 000 platinum ounces by 2020.
design Earrings representing heroic symbols by Simphiwe Dumengane from Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT) using platinum and resin
THE ANNUAL PLATAFRICA JEWELLERY DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING COMPETITION PROMOTES THE POWER OF PLATINUM AND SHOWCASES THE TALENTS OF SOUTH AFRICAN DESIGNERS. INTRODUCING THE FINALISTS IN THE 2016 PLATAFRICA AWARDSâ&#x20AC;¦
The Galea ring, reminiscent of an ancient helmet, by Louise Kriek of Tshwane University of Technology (TUT) using platinum, 18K yellow gold and synthetic hair
Top, Matte Nolim
NUEVO photography MALCOLM DARE props stylist JENNY ANDREW fashion stylist SHEENA BAGSHAWE
traditions 77
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
design
The Elements neckpiece by Elizka Sauer of Uwe Koetter Jewellers using platinum, rose gold, silver, wood and mother of pearl
An Isagweba sceptre by Babalo Chumo Rozani of Keith White Design using platinum, wood and leather
Judges were looking for a modern interpretation of ancient philosophies, the creation of modern heirlooms, as well as the use of technology to express a cultural tradition
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
78
Hugo platter, Woolworths
N
OW IN ITS 17th year, the PlatAfrica design and manufacturing competition is open to professional jewellers, students in their 3rd year of study, and apprentices in South Africa. With a different creative brief each year, Anglo American Platinum has created a platform that provides access to platinum, as well as developing local platinum jewellery design and manufacturing skills. This year the design theme of the PlatAfrica competition was Nuevo Traditions. It is a theme with the post-urbanite in mind â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the people of the millennial generation who, in response to an increasingly virtual lifestyle, are looking for ways to connect more to their surroundings. There were five approaches to choose from: slice, organic, liquid reflections, micro-texture and symbolic.
Two armpieces inspired by Isiphandla: The Spear of Time bracelet by Sylvester Louw of Pneuma Jewellers using platinum, silver, goatskin and stones, and the bangle by Phumlani Mngoma of Pneuma Jewellers using platinum, horn, skin and silver
PLATAFRICA AWARDS
PROFESSIONAL CATEGORY
The revelations signet ring by Manuel Mpho Helepi of Keith White Design using platinum and opalite
NUEVO TRADITIONS A mask or hair ornament by Thuto Pule of Keith White Design using platinum and African Blackwood
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Lalique dish, Apsley House; Satin wrap, Stuttafords; OmbrĂŠ glass votive holder, @home; Background wallpaper, Osborne & Little Marmara, Home Fabrics; Handblown crackled glass vase, @home; Rosenthal mini vase, Spilhaus; Forget Me Not dinner plate, Woolworths
Hugo platter, Woolworths
design
A blooming lotus necklace and pendant by Elizabeth Morell of Liz Morell Jewellery Design using platinum, turquoise beads and stone
A Khoisan-inspired neck pendant representing urbanites living in and through the elements and their surroundings by Magda Nieman and Abram Mathabatha of Nieman Jewellers using platinum, boulder opal, tourmaline and lolite
Place and time, body and mind pendants and necklaces by Oliver Green of Jack Friedman using platinum, silver chain and copper
A lionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s claw necklace symbolising strength and royalty by Siyabonga Cele of Mizane Jewellers using platinum, beads and silver
79
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
design
Origami-inspired earrings by Janci Le Roux of Mizane Jewellers using platinum and blue topaz gemstones
A ring designed to resemble an African hut by Omphile Sibanda of TUT using platinum and resin A wooden ring representing a new tradition of unity by AA Thamy Vencatasawmy from Durban University of Technology (DUT) using platinum and African Blackwood
A colourful choker carrying symbolic messages by Vuyiseka Luke from CPUT using platinum, red rope and silver
A womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pendant and necklace featuring bubbles as dreams by Jefta Mtole from Altin Jewellers using platinum and plastic
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
80
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dress, Mr Price; RCR Nynphea Luxion crystal tumbler, Spilhaus; St Louis highball glass, Apsley House; Blue crystal pentagon tealight holder, Generation; Lalique Medusa vase, Apsley House; Dress, Maria Calderara at Catheryne Gaeyla
M
ANY OF THE student pieces were designed for the post-urbanite as a mindful being with a yearning to reconnect with the environment. A variety of textures and treatments suggested that the wearer preferred surfaces that were not perfect, lighter colours and softer textures. Several of the designs featured the contrasting effect of combining ancient materials and processes with modern technology, recycling and raw construction.
design PLATAFRICA AWARDS
STUDENT CATEGORY
HAIR STYLIST AND MAKE-UP RENATE WILLEMS AT RED HOT OPS; MODELS AN‘MIRE AT FANJAM, ANITA AND ALINO AT BOSS MODELS; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT L’MRIE ERASMUS Glass dish, Boardmans; Background wallpaper, Osborne & Little Marmara, Home Fabrics; Wallpaper, Candice Olsen for York Wallcoverings, Home Fabrics
A NEW GENERATION
A contemporary style ring featuring icons of mythology by Boda Song from CPUT using platinum and silver A ring inspired by the Chinese dragon boat festival by Lumka Dhlamini of Keith White Design using platinum and nylon plastic
LEFT PAGE A bracelet representing beauty in imperfection by Khanya Mthethwa of Mizane Jewellers using platinum, rhodium-plated silver and turquoise stones The Izinyembezi necklace representing tears by Bongumusa Mtshali from Mizane Jewellers using platinum
The Ultimate Catch pendant by Mpho Mokgatle of Keith White Design using platinum, blackened silver and wooden sticks A pendant inspired by spiritual treasure by Julian Roux of Pneuma Jewellers using platinum, silver, sterling silver, wood and steel
PLATAFRICA IS PRESENTED BY ANGLO AMERICAN PLATINUM, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PLATINUM GUILD INTERNATIONAL (PGI) INDIA AND METAL CONCENTRATORS. SELECTED FINALISTS WILL BE INVITED TO PARTICIPATE IN PGI INDIA’S DESIGN SOURCING PROCESS. THESE LUCKY JEWELLERS WILL BE ABLE TO SUBMIT DESIGNS FOR THE GROWING INDIAN MARKET. www.angloamericanplatinum.com
81
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
of
Everything you need to know, right now, about the world’s most beautiful boutiques, labels, jewels, trends, and timepieces text THOMO SETSHOGO photography MALCOLM DARE, SUPPLIED
A
LUXURY
a-z of luxury
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
82
AB FAB
It was champagne all round last year when the Lady Compliquée Peacock watch by Fabergé took top honours at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva. Now, one of the cleverest timepieces around has three new variations on the theme, employing the same ingenious Geneva-made movement exclusive to Fabergé. The new additions are adorned with the most precious of all the coloured gemstones: sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. The watch function of these new timepieces is quite extraordinary, too. Hours are read at the winding crown, off the mother-of-pearl or onyx disk that rotates counter-clockwise. The minutes are read off the peacock’s tail feathers as they unfurl each hour — only returning to zero when the lead feather reaches 60. These intricate Fabergé masterpieces are like mobile works of art, painting constantly evolving scenes as time unwinds on the wearer’s wrist. In this manually wound movement, four pivoting blades fan out simultaneously from 7 o’clock, indicating the minutes, and each blade moves independently. It makes perfect sense that the heirs to the creative spirit of Peter Carl Fabergé, the man who made those lavish, jewelled Easter eggs for the Russian imperial court, should come up with this innovation.
A
Black
a-z of luxury
C
DEEP BLACK FROM OMEGA Black watches are the strongest colour trend of the season, and the Planet Ocean Deep Black collection from Omega is certain to be one of the most coveted of all. The Deep Black is a serious diving watch that can withstand 60 bars of pressure, and its styling is second to none.
DIAMONDS
D
have always been the most luxurious gemstone of all — representing all that is precious, rare, and unique, and they are seen as the ultimate statement of love, as well as status. The halo design is the new solitaire, according to Yair Shimansky, owner of Shimansky Jewellers, and it is definitely the diamond setting of choice among modern brides. The halo setting is created by surrounding a central stone with a ring of smaller stones. This emphasises the beauty of the central stone, as well as its cut, clarity, and size. It’s a classic setting that’s been around since Edwardian and Victorian times, but the 21st century versions have a modern touch of their own. There is also a move towards dressy and trendy diamond rings — we’ve seen these looks on the red carpet being worn by the likes of Beyoncé. Shimansky says it is important to treat the design of a diamond ring as a combination of art and architecture. It should be contemporary, artistic, and up to date, while using classic lines, and a clean design language, to guarantee timelessness.
83
CHARLES GREIG The time and jewellery master harles Greig Jewellers was founded by Scotsman Charles Greig, and boasts a rich heritage spanning more than 100 years and five generations. The original Mr Greig, a watchmaker, arrived in the then-small mining settlement of Johannesburg in 1899, set up his first shop, and heralded the birth of the Charles Greig family watch and jewellery dynasty. Charles Greig has always boasted some unique firsts and bests: It was the first boutique in South Africa to import and sell the iconic Rolex watch brand. This was followed by another luxury Swiss brand, Jaeger-LeCoultre, in the 1930s, and today it is known for its wide selection of watches — the big names include Rolex, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Panerai, and Omega, and Charles Greig is the only jewellery store in South Africa to carry all six of these world-renowned brands. Charles Greig’s son David joined the family business after completing a year’s watchmaking course in Switzerland in the 1950s. His grandsons also observed the family tradition, and in the 1970s Christopher, Donald, and Richard Greig joined the business. “Our jewellery is manufactured in-house, and with 40 goldsmiths, we endeavour to create something unique”, says Christopher Greig, who takes a lead role in the design and manufacturing side of the business. Charles Greig’s latest collection has been dubbed Adorn, and is made up of necklaces and earrings featuring gemstones and beads that are unusually cut and uniquely designed. All the stones, beads, and pieces are sourced in India and Thailand by Christopher Greig and bead specialist Gerald Leuchtenberger. “The new collection is exotic, colourful, casual, and extremely wearable, particularly for the Johannesburg lifestyle,” says Christopher Greig. Another passion for the Greig family is the Ardmore ceramics collection from the Midlands in KwaZulu-Natal. Charles Greig has collaborated with Ardmore for more than 30 years, and the most recent exhibition celebrated the Year of the Monkey as a tribute to the Chinese horoscope. November will see a bronze exhibition, which will be created and curated by Italia Greig (mother to the three sons), and Donald Greig, both of whom are acclaimed bronze sculptors.
The new collection is exotic, colourful, casual, and extremely wearable
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
a-z of luxury
ELEGANT SPIRIT
Peerless Spirit is 65-year-old whisky in a delicate Lalique Decanter — the final in a series of six decanters produced as part of a remarkable and luxurious collaboration between The Macallan and the legendary French crystal house. There are only 450 individually numbered Peerless Spirit decanters in the world, making this a highly sought after collector’s item, with only a handful still available. Marc Larminaux, creative director for Lalique, based the design on a single drop of The Macallan, captured falling from the iconic Macallan inverted triangle, which can be found on every present-day bottle. Since its inception in 2005, The Macallan in Lalique Collection has proved extremely popular with collectors across the world. In 2014 The Macallan accounted for the top ten high-priced bottles sold at auction, and in 2015, The Macallan was the most valuable whisky brand at auction. The Peerless Spirit decanter is priced at R550 000.
E
Four-claw square ametrine dress ring in 18k rose gold, R 65 800; double four-claw prasiolite dress ring in 18k gold, R 42 100; double four-claw blue topaz dress ring in 18k white gold, R43 600, all Charles Greig
G
F
GLAMOROUS COCKTAIL RINGS ADD A TOUCH OF SOPHISTICATION TO SUNDOWNER STYLE
15 M I N U T E S W I T H
ORESTI MAVRODARIS Joburg man-about-town and creative director at Elegance Jewellers
Who or what inspires your work? People, places, things… my family, to start. My parents both worked at Elegance Jewellers, which was established in 1967, during their summer holidays. They later married, and then acquired the business. It has since grown to include three generations — my gran used to head up sales, and we grew up behind the counters. Nearly 50 years later, we’re still at it, inspired by our family and business heritage, our country, and our clients.
Our clients love being able to express their individuality in an increasingly uniform world W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
84
Who are your customers and what do they buy? We cater to a wide range of clients. In many ways, destination jewellers are like fashion houses, with clients buying “off the rail”, as well as commissioning bespoke pieces. Bespoke design work is driven by a small but important market — one that’s growing. Our clients love being able to express their individuality in an increasingly uniform world. And your cult range Nom Nom appeals to this market? And how! It has really taken off, beyond our wildest dreams, enjoying a massive following throughout South Africa, Australia, Europe,
I
a-z of luxury
INVESTING
H
IN DIAMONDS
Diamond jewellery is not a financial investment — it’s an emotional one. That’s according to Yair Shimansky from Shimansky Jewellers. The precious gems themselves, however, are a fine investment, he says, and it’s an option that is attracting an increasing amount of interest. Shimansky points out that as a secure investment, diamonds are liquid, movable and they have no holding costs. So where to start? The entry level for buying investment diamonds is R300 000 to R400 000. This could potentially buy you a good quality 1ct diamond. R1-million rand will buy you a stone of more than 2ct,
THIS AWARD SEASON, STARS SUCH AS LILLY DONALDSON, MARTHA HUNT, AND MARGOT ROBBIE SHOWED US HOW TO SHIMMER IN RED CARPET DIAMONDS FROM FOREVERMARK
or a fancy colour diamond. At the upper level, the ultimate investment is a rare pure-coloured diamond, such as a blue diamond, that could set you back R20-million, or a 1ct red diamond for about R30-million. Shimansky says it’s important to buy investment diamonds from a diamond expert, and not from a retailer who has already added a mark-up, which will eat into your investment. It’s a bit like buying a property at construction phase as opposed to after the developer has built it. And in most cases, investment diamonds are different to diamonds used in jewellery in any case.
ollywood
the UK, the US, and Canada. Nom Nom has a very strong brand identity, but it’s underscored by a strong individual signature that is unique to each client. It’s the reinvention of the humble charm necklace, but sexed-up with a new twist that celebrates the individual.
How did Nom Nom start? It’s quite weird, actually, but it’s the result of the classic creative process where desire drives innovation. I was sitting with my yiayia (grandmother), eyeing her gold clover charm, and I asked her to give it to me. Because the workshop was closed, I used a red string and turquoise bead to attach it to my chain. A friend then wanted it, offering to buy it from me, so I made him a new one. I added a stone, he added two. Then his friend arrived from Sydney and also wanted one — and then the phone started ringing, with everyone wanting the Elegance “charm necklace”, as it didn’t have a name back then. Where does it get its name? It’s named after my brother Dino’s son, Nicholas Oresti Mavrodaris, and it’s a play on his initials. To what do you attribute its mad success around the world? It’s a celebration of simplicity, flexibility, and individuality. Nom Nom’s base design is a fine gold chain with a turquoise bead. From there, the look is driven by the individual, who chooses from the 30-odd standard products, or mixes it up with the addition of upcycled family heirlooms. Its tag line is “bespoke
keepsakes” and, in its purest essence, that’s what it’s all about. It has a signature look, but one that’s very individualised. It appeals to men and women, young and old, and it works with everything from jeans and T-shirts to evening wear. What’s next for the Nom Nom brand? Because it works on the charm-piece concept, a Nom Nom piece usually grows over time, as clients will give elements to each other as gifts. As the range has grown, Nom Nom has since developed into a store-withina-store at Elegance. And, as our first international breakthrough brand, there’s increasing pressure from clients who want us to open standalone stores. What’s next for Elegance? The Love Teddy luxury jewellery collection, for which we collaborated with design guru Danyell Nestadt, is now in-house at all Elegance stores, and we have plans to take the Teddy Tale abroad. We also have Gi!, which is our new in-house collection that’s inspired by Africa, and what I think is the world’s most elegant animal, the giraffe. You’ll be hearing a lot more about Gi! — what’s the catchphrase at that Cape wine farm? Audacia? Ex Africa semper aliquid novi — out of Africa, always something new. I love that!
85
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
18k yellow gold snake ring with cognac diamonds and ruby eyes, R53 200, Elegance Jewellers
a-z of luxury 18k white gold tennis bracelet, white and black rhodinium, R216 560, Shemer Jewellers
J
ewels
K
SHEMER JEWELLERS, the multi-brand jewellery store in Bedford Centre, Johannesburg, not only sells beautiful internationally branded jewellery, it also boasts an impressive 29m2 Rolex boutique outlet in its shop, making it the biggest retailer of Rolex watches in South Africa. We asked owner Alan Carrington about his new jewellery collections, and the jewellery design trends to look out for. Tell us about your latest jewellery collection at Shemer? As a multi-brand jewellery store, we are constantly on the lookout for brands and jewellery that can complement what we already offer our customers. We believe in brands, and as such rely heavily on branded watches and jewellery as part of our total mix. Watch brands such as Rolex and jewellery brands such as Forevermark hopefully set us apart as a luxury goods retailer, and give us the necessary credibility to transact in this market.
KING OF THE SKIES
Please tell us more about your cabochon stones? One of the brands that we carry are the masters of the cabochon stone: Moraglione. This Italian jeweller has mastered the art of cabochon and how best to set it into beautiful jewellery pieces. These cabochons are often sliced through, and made into triplets and doublets using a multitude of different coloured stones, creating the most magnificent opaque colours.
Why are they so popular in the market now? Consumers of high-end luxury brands are looking for a point of difference. The specialisation required, and the skill needed to work a high-end cabochon, sets it apart in the market, and gives the customer the opportunity to feel like they own something completely unique. Why have coloured stones become the trend in the market, along with black diamonds? Our customers love coloured stones and black diamonds. They allow the wearer to create a singular mood, plus they are clearly something different from the classic diamond look. Shemer Jewellers stock the world famous cabochon designs by Italian jewellery design house Moraglione
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
86
A SPECIALIST IN THE creation of technical watches, Breitling has played a crucial role in the development of the wrist chronograph, and it is a leader when it comes to this complication. The preferred watch amongst many pilots, Breitling has shared all the finest moments in the conquest of the skies, thanks to its sturdy, reliable, and highperformance instruments. One of the world's only major watch brands to equip all its models with chronometer-certified movements, the ultimate token of precision, Breitling is also one of the rare companies to produce its own mechanical chronograph movements, entirely developed and manufactured in its workshops. This family business is also one of the last remaining independent Swiss watch brands.
a-z of luxury
L
WE LOVE THE NEW RECTANGULAR SHAPE THAT HAS BEEN ADDED TO THE ELEGANT LONGINES EQUESTRIAN COLLECTION. ITS ROUNDED CORNERS REFERENCE THE RECTANGULAR BUCKLE FOUND ON THE SHOW BRIDLE OF THE ONLY SWISS HORSE BREED, THE FRANCHES-MONTAGNES
M
It’s a dilemma all of us face at some point or another... what do you give the person who has everything? Metal Concentrates, or MetCon, might just have the answer, in the form of minted gold bars, of course. Timeless, luxurious, and with a soulful meaning — they represent something truly South African that is extracted from the soil beneath our feet, a minted gold bar makes for one of the more original gift concepts out there. On the investment side, gold bars satisfy the requirements necessary to be viewed as money in the Western world. They are a medium of exchange, easily recognisable, divisible, a store of value, and are internationally tradable and extremely liquid. So whether you’re buying for you or a friend — a pure gold bar from MetCon should be at the top of your gifting list.
etCon
87
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
N a-z of luxury
NEW MINIMALISM
Movado, long the makers of one of the most important cult timepieces in any watch aficionado’s collection, has recently launched a brand design — once more showcasing the brand’s unique Modernist-inspired design and minimalist look. Movado’s legendary Museum Dial was created in 1947 by artist and designer Nathan George Horwitt. The stark and iconic dial has no numbers and is defined only by a solitary gold dot at 12 o’clock, symbolising the sun at high noon. The black and gold original remains the iconic watch of the Museum Dial collection. This conceptual, groundbreaking watch is one of the most acclaimed designs of all time, and was accepted into the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in 1960. The new Movado Edge, developed in collaboration with world-renowned industrial designer Yves Béhar and his design firm Fuseproject, takes Movado to a new level, bringing even more design innovation and sophistication to the brand. The design remains minimal, and it is so distinctive that the manufacturer has still not deemed it necessary to include the watch logo on the dial. The Movado Edge has a thoroughly modern aesthetic, with an industrial touch, and a visually tactile form. The simplified, geometric outlines are a nod to Movado’s heritage rooted in the Bauhaus movement, and the dot emerges regally from the dial’s curved and newly textured landscape. Again, there is reference to the sun, as sculpted ridges around the edge of the dial suggest the sun’s rays, while subtly marking the minutes. Fusing form, function, and inspiration, this transformative new collection includes men’s, women’s, and chronograph models on stainless steel link bracelets, and black leather or rubber straps.
WHAT IS LIFE WITHOUT A FINE FRENCH COGNAC? HONOR VS, BLENDED USING THE FINEST EAUX DE VIE FROM THE CELLARS OF BIRKEDAL HARTMANN, WAS RECENTLY AWARDED A DOUBLE GOLD MEDAL FOR ITS GOLD EDITION AT THE 16TH ANNUAL SAN FRANCISCO WORLD SPIRITS COMPETITION
O ooh-la-la
F or the past 75 years, the historic Big Pilot’s Watch was the largest wristwatch ever made by luxury Swiss watch manufacturer IWC. Now, meet the Big Pilot’s successor: the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55, with an amazing 55mm case diameter, and a rich brown calfskin strap. The newcomer looks a lot like the original, but makes a few concessions to modern ideas of aesthetics and comfort. There’s also a smaller brother, the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48. Both new watches in the range are limited editions, with only 100 pieces of the 55mm and 1 000 pieces of the 48mm available worldwide. The number of each edition is engraved into the case back. The new Big Pilot's Heritage watch now comes in a titanium case, and is sandblasted to eliminate reflections that might hinder legibility or betray the wearer’s position to the enemy. The watch movement itself is protected against magnetic fields by a soft-iron inner case. The bold, coneshaped crown is a reminder of those early days of flying, when pilots in their unheated cockpits were forced to wear thick and unwieldy gloves. The lighter material is a nod to modern-day possibilities, and instead of a central seconds hand, the small seconds are found at six o’clock.
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
88
P
THE BIGGEST
PILOT
OF ALL
A limited edition from IWC
a-z of luxury
The Sizzling Summer collection launches in October
Q uirky
THERE’S SOMETHING about the window displays of Veronica Anderson Jewellery in The Firs of Rosebank. You can’t walk past them without stopping. It's more of a gallery than a shop, and Anderson uses her store to showcase the designs of the 40 jeweller-artists on her books. “Our jewellery is quirky and interesting,” Anderson says. “Each piece is handmade, and our collection gives our customers access to independent designers they may not have been able to find themselves.” Anderson, who is a legend in the jewellery industry in South Africa, started life in the advertising and art world, then fell in love with antique jewellery. Soon after that, though, the world of contemporary jewellery design lured her in. “I learnt about antique jewellery on the job at Reads. Then, in the late ’80s, everyone started to fall in love with white metals instead of the gold of antique jewellery. That’s when I saw the gap for South African jewellery, and started to work with local designers.” She started Veronica Anderson 11 years ago, commissioning all her designers to create a unique clasp,
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
and this has been her retail signature ever since. Twice a year, she commissions her artists to create something with a specific theme and those sparkling windows are filled up with new stories once again. With more than 35 years experience, it is her expert eye and knowledge, as much as the beautiful designs in the window that bring customers back to Veronica Anderson time and time again. “Our level of creative and informative input with our customers is huge. I believe they’ve come to trust our judgement and depend on the level of personal service we give them,” Anderson says. She also enjoys helping customers to remodel old jewellery or to melt down the metal and turn it into something completely new. Buying designer jewellery can be quite addictive and once you’ve acquired one piece, it’s a habit that’s hard to break. “There’s a certain cachet to wearing something that no one else has. It becomes part of your look. There’s no branding on our jewellery, it doesn’t shout ‘expensive’, and it’s very real,” she says.
90
SWAROVSKI STORES: SANDTON CITY, EASTGATE MALL, CRESTA CENTRE, FOURWAYS MALL, CANAL WALK, CAVENDISH SQUARE SWAROVSKI STORES: SANDTON CITY, MALL, CRESTA CENTRE, FOURWAYS MALL, PARK, CANALWOODLANDS WALK, CAVENDISH SQUARE SPILHAUS STORES: GREENSTONE MALL,EASTGATE HYDE PARK CENTRE, ROSEBANK MALL, MENLYN CENTRE, SPILHAUS STORES: GREENSTONE MALL, HYDE PARK CENTRE, ROSEBANK CONSTANTIA VILLAGE, V&A WATERFRONT WILLOWBRIDGE CENTRE MALL, MENLYN PARK, WOODLANDS CENTRE, CONSTANTIA VILLAGE, V&A WATERFRONT, WILLOWBRIDGE CENTRE KARLIE KLOSS
#GiveBrilliant WITH THE FALL COLLECTION DISCOVER MORE AT SWAROVSKI.COM
#GiveBrilliant
Crystaldust single bracelets - R1190 WITH THE HOLIDAY COLLECTION Crystaldust double bracelets - R1490 DISCOVER MORE AT SWAROVSKI.COM Angelic pierced earrings - R1190
CHR01_Business_275x335_ZA.indd 1
21.09.16 09:56
S
a-z of luxury
R
T
op down
ROLEX NEW CALIBRE
RAISING THE BAR This year has been a monumental one at Rolex, with the introduction of Calibre 3235 — the iconic watch brand’s newgeneration mechanical movement. With 14 patents, it embodies Rolex’s new standards of performance with its precision, power reserve, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetism, as well as the ease and convenience of its adjustment. The remarkable specifications of this new calibre (in all Rolex watches from 2016) makes the celebrated brand more desirable than ever. The new calibre means that the Calibre 3235’s criteria for precision in everyday wear are twice as exacting as those for an officially certified chronometer. The
power reserve extends to three days (about 70 hours), which means that the watch will easily continue to run over a weekend without needing to be rewound, and the movement is impervious to magnetic interference beyond that encountered in everyday life. Its resistance to shocks and its reliability have been optimised through changes to its overall architecture, as well as its individual components. Last but by no means least, the Calibre 3235 offers the wearer enhanced convenience, thanks to faster and more efficient selfwinding, distinct easy-to-sense positions on the winding stem, unrestricted calendar correction at any time, and an impressively precise time setting.
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
THERE IS SIMPLY NOTHING MORE GLAMOROUS AND LUXURIOUS THAN A CABRIOLET, AND THE NEW S CABRIOLET AND C CABRIOLET MODELS FROM MERCEDES BENZ ARE NOTHING SHORT OF OUR DREAM DRIVES. SOAK IN THE SUN IN STYLE THIS SUMMER IN ONE OF THESE TWO DROP TOP LOVELIES: THE MERCEDES BENZ SPORTY SLC 43 CABRIOLET, OR THE ELEGANT AND REFINED S63 CABRIOLET.
92
U
S
a-z of luxury
STELLENBOSCH
A DESIGNER PLAYGROUND
It has to be the ultimate luxury destination in the winelands — a place where tranquillity, service, style, art, and glamour are combined in an unforgettable blend. Delaire Graff Estate in Stellenbosch, nestled between majestic mountains, is owned by jeweller extraordinaire Laurence Graff, and is a lot more than a wine estate. With two outstanding restaurants, an exclusive lodge and a magnificent spa, and several luxury boutiques that include the Graff Jewellers flagship Africa boutique, there is no end to the splendid experience. THE RESTAURANTS Everybody is talking about the remarkable creativity of the Delaire Graff Restaurant, but we’re also in love with Indochine, the pan-Asian restaurant that offers simple and contemporary flavour and flair. THE BOUTIQUES In addition to the diamond boutique, there’s also 100% Capri — a stylish collection of casual clothing and homeware inspired by the stunning southern Italian island, where sun-drenched days are ideally spent in covetable white linen. There’s talk that Mr Graff himself loves to wear the 100% Capri linen on his summer holidays. For handbag lovers, local personality and designer Vanashree Singh has launched a unique handbag and accessories range called VanaShree. The range features exotic skin bags and wallets made from the finest sustainable crocodile, ostrich, python, and stingray leather. VanaShree is available exclusively at Delaire Graff. THE LODGE AND SPA A stay at the stylish and discreet lodge, with a private heated pool, or a visit to the spa, is an unmissable part of the Delaire Graff experience.
U
UNVEILED THE SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION FROM MIMCO IS UNDERSTATED AND SOPHISTICATED. THE TAN PHENOMENA TOTE AND ORCHID-INSPIRED ALL FLOURISH BLACK NECKPIECE ARE SHOWSTOPPERS
93
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
a-z of luxury
MODERN VINTAGE
DOGFIGHT IS A NEW BRAND OF PILOT WATCH, FEATURING HIGH QUALITY FINISHES AT AN AFFORDABLE PRICE. THE COLLECTION INCLUDES THE TECHNICAL-LOOKING EXPERTEN, THE PROFESSIONAL ACE, AND THE STYLISH WINGMAN — ALL A CLEVER TRIBUTE TO THE BRAVE PILOTS OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR
W
heel
V
X FACTOR
The face of festina After 25 years of sponsoring the Tour de France, the sporty and stylish Spanish-owned Swiss-made watch brand Festina has decided to head to Hollywood with Scottish actor Gerard Butler as the new face of the brand. Miss World Denny Méndez stars alongside him in the newly launched Festina advertising campaign, and we’re loving all the eye candy!
THE RETRO MOTORSPORT INSPIRED ORIGINS OF THE TISSOT PRS 516 AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH ARE CLEAR. THE WATCH’S CASE BACK IS SHAPED LIKE THE STEERING WHEEL OF A SPORTS CAR
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
94
X
Y
a-z of luxury
YOUNG
Jordy Cobelens, TW Steel CEO and co-founder, and self-confessed music and adventure nut, swept through South Africa recently, chiefly to go shark cave diving in Gansbaai, but he managed to find some time to talk watches too. With a dark, large and stylish TW Steel Maverick on his wrist, Cobelens shared the thinking behind the current direction the watch brand is taking — and it’s a natural evolution for the Dutch-born, Swiss-made brand with a strong sense of heritage. The new Maverick gives a modern twist to vintage style, but its look is still firmly rooted in the brand’s make-up. For Corbelens, the most important part of the Maverick launch process has been the appreciation of great craftsmanship and good-looking design. The dial is simple, with an option in retro cream, and the vintage leather strap has heritage written all over it. While TW Steel watches will never follow trends in different fashion directions, Corbelens believes that the current appreciation for a simpler life, and sensual pleasures such as good coffee, and a visit to the barber shop, are an important part of the modern lifestyle. He’s created the Maverick for that person, and we wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a TW Steel barber shop on the way. The Maverick collection comes in 38mm and 45mm cases, and sports either a tactile vintage leather or Milanese steel bracelet.
AT HEART
The new Maverick gives a modern twist to vintage style
Z
zzz
THE FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA in Sandton has been given a luxurious makeover, described as contemporary, colourful, chic, and slightly quirky, while retaining the charm of the 19-year-old property. Fairlawns was originally the Oppenheimer Estate, and exudes a park-like atmosphere, with huge trees and prolific birdlife. The five-star guest house boasts 40 themed suites, a presidential spa apartment, a Balinese spa, a conference centre, and a fitness centre. The Fairlawns makeover retains most of the hotel’s antiques and furniture, but the rooms have been transformed with paint and rich, luxurious fabrics. The Manor House Bistro is the new all-day, à la carte restaurant, and Amuse-Bouche, the property’s flagship restaurant, features contemporary African cuisine prepared with a French influence. Both restaurants overlook the rolling green lawns and are open to the public to enjoy. Fairlawns’ Into the Woods 12-seater private dining area features huge glass windows that overlook the hotel’s immaculately manicured garden. The pool and garden upgrade brings a touch of luxury to the lazy days and lawn blanket parties on the last Sunday of every month.
95
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
in the works
the complications to watch The inner workings of a timepiece can be intricate and intriguing, created with love and care by a true master text MATT MORLEY
W
ATCH COMPLICATIONS ARE a curious thing. They require hundreds of highly skilled man hours to produce, yet most are put to only occasional use by their owners. Intricately complex and inherently delicate, they occupy a unique space at the apex of the watch industry: a rare combination of form and function, aesthetics and mechanics. The big three complications are the rattrapante or split seconds chronograph, the perpetual calendar, and the minute repeater. One or more of these may be combined with a flying tourbillon, eventually earning the title of a grand complication timepiece. Each of these three categories was well represented in 2016’s new releases, but the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in black titanium stands out, showing that Bulgari is taking its fine watchmaking ever more seriously. The company strategically acquired both the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brands in recent years to access their Swiss manufacturing facilities, allowing the production of highly advanced complications such as this one. A minute repeater is a striking watch that contains a mechanism with miniature hammers and gongs inside that produce an audible reading of the time upon depression of a small pusher on the side of the case. Nowadays innovation comes mostly in the form of the mechanism’s dimensions and sound quality. In this instance Bulgari set itself the challenge of squeezing a minute repeater into a case so small it claims it to be the smallest such complication currently on the market. This approach resulted in a number of additional obstacles around the clarity, cadence, and consistency of the watch’s chimes that have been confidently overcome, and all within
a case measuring just 6.85mm in width. The Graff Mastergraff Perpetual Calendar also plays the finissimo game by introducing the Graff Calibre 7, a proprietary movement just 7.72mm in width. Day, date, and month are lined up horizontally between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock on the chocolate-coloured dial with its sunray finish. It’s the sub-dial at 4 o’clock, however, that gives the game away, indicating leap years — a feature only a perpetual calendar is capable of. Wind this watch every 50 hours and it will not need adjusting until the year 2100. There is also a flying tourbillon that rotates once every 60 seconds, offsetting the effects of gravity on the watch’s accuracy. These elements of classic high-watchmaking mechanics are complemented by a trademark Graff faceted bezel and the brand’s emblem. Finally, this year saw a new edition of the Patek Philippe reference 5204 with a rattrapante chronograph and perpetual calendar. The watch was first introduced in 2012, is now available in an elegant pink gold case, and is still only 40mm, despite its multiple complications. Very few brands have the technical prowess to pull this kind of thing off, but Patek makes such feats seem effortless. It also does so while maintaining an inimitable aesthetic that makes its timepieces instantly recognisable. Notice the combination of a concave bezel with the stepped lugs or “shoulders” that connect case to strap — one seamless line of detailing. The rattrapante chronograph function is joined by day and month indicators, a 30-minute chronograph counter, a leap year display, date and moon phase indications, day/ night indication, and a seconds counter. It’s a lot of information to take in, but the beauty of this design is its balance and symmetry.
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
96
BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO MINUTE REPEATER CASE: 40mm sandblasted titanium MOVEMENT: Mechanical hand-wound BVL calibre 362 FEATURES: Ultra-thin manufacture minute repeater, limited edition of 50 pieces STRAP: Vulcanised black alligator leather strap
GRAFF PERPETUAL CALENDAR CASE: 46mm rose gold MOVEMENT: Automatic Graff Calibre 7 FEATURES: Perpetual calendar, tourbillon STRAP: Alligator leather
PATEK PHILIPPE CHRONOGRAPH RATTRAPANTE CASE: 40mm 18K rose gold MOVEMENT: Calibre 29-535 PS Q, mechanical hand-wound FEATURES: Perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph, moon phase STRAP: Hand-stitched alligator leather
Spoiled for Choice
12 top South African artist-jewellers, 12 tantalizing tourmalines, 12 signature rings.
Featured here: The work of Dorathea Annandale, Maryse Castel, Adi Cloete, Brendon Cloete, Maryke du Plessis, Mark Hartmeier, Alex Hyslop, Gerika Langenhoven, Deirdre McIlroy, Nina Newman, AdĂŠle Pretorius and Elizabeth van der Merwe.
Shop 7, The Firs, Oxford Road, Rosebank, 2196, Johannesburg roni@vajewellery.co.za I www.veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za Tel +27 (0)11 268 2021 I Mobile +27 (0)82 881 0359
industry watchdog Lorna Lloyd, Chief Executive Officer of the Jewellery Council of South Africa
the council takes care of you We asked Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of South Africa, to tell us why this body is important to consumers, as well as to the industry
Establish a good ongoing relationship with your jeweller
What is the Jewellery Council? The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) represents manufacturing, wholesale, and retail jewellers in South Africa, as well as some mining houses and services to the industry. It was founded in the 1970s and is a non-profit industry body. How many jewellers belong to the Jewellery Council? More than 1 300 jewellery-specific retail stores belong to the Jewellery Council, representing 75% of retail turnover. How does a customer know if a jeweller is a member? Member jewellers display decals in their stores with the JCSA logo, clearly stating that they are members. So how does it work? When purchasing, ask the jeweller for as much information on the piece as possible. Make sure that you receive an invoice or receipt, which describes the piece and the amount paid. Try to establish a good ongoing relationship with your jeweller, who can become someone you can trust. If there are larger diamonds set in the jewellery, request a laboratory certificate on the stones, which details the colour, cut, clarity, and carat-weight. When handing a piece of jewellery in for repair, make sure that you receive a remittance slip, which gives full details of the article, for example 15cm, 18k gold Gucci chain with Italian clasp. If there are diamonds or other precious stones set in the article, request that the jeweller inspect it, so as to clarify that the stone is, in fact, a precious stone. If you are handing in a pearl necklace, make sure that the pearls are counted as pearls that is restrung may result in the string being shorter, because it is tighter. In which areas does the Jewellery Council support the jewellery industry? The council oversees industry growth and sustainability, and transformation and beneficiation, which is a value addition. It
also oversees the code of ethics and conduct within the industry, and ensures consumer protection, education, and assistance. The council provides information support for the industry, and is responsible for managing investor support, linkages, and local knowledge support. Generic marketing, and export support and marketing also fall within the council’s mandate. Lastly, the council is involved in legislative processes and information dissemination, project based development for fair trade, jewellery hubs, clusters, and so on, as well as joint ventures, mediation, and arbitration. What next for the Jewellery Council? We will be embarking on a marketing campaign for Valentine’s Day in February 2017, to drive consumers to member stores to purchase a piece of jewellery instead of teddy bears and chocolates!
For more information, contact the Jewellery Council of South Africa on 011 484 5528 or email admin@jewellery.org.za
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
98
She wears: Silk blouse, Thomas Pink; skirt, Marianne Fassler; gold bangle, Elegance Jewellers He wears: Jacket; shirt, both Ermenegildo Zegna; trousers, Paul Smith
www.mbworld.co.za
roman
invasion
Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari creative director
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
102
text JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY
the BEAUTIFUL
La dolce vita is here, with the opening of the Bulgari boutique in Sandton and two new fragrances launching soon
bulgari in sa
The boho-inspired MUSA necklace in 18k rose gold with amethyst, blue topaz, rubellite beads, and pavĂŠ diamonds
bulgari in sa
L
UCIA SILVESTRI DOES not come across as one of the most powerful women in the world of high jewellery. Dressed in a white cotton shirt, and wearing a boho-inspired MUSA tasselled necklace I’ve picked out as my favourite, she chats casually about her job, which has been described as the “Indiana Jones of fine jewellery”. Silvestri, who has been part of the Bulgari team for more than 30 years, spends much of her time scouring the planet for the most beautiful gems possible, and she can see the potential in a stone far beyond its exterior. Pity the Indian gentleman who tried for years to sell her a 180ct sugarloaf sapphire — it was faceted and “too heavy” in the Bulgari expert’s eyes. Silvestri worked with the gem merchant for nine years before she felt he had created a stone that she could use. After two cuts, the priceless sapphire was down to 125ct, and Silvestri was satisfied that she could see the life inside the stone. When she finally bough the gemstone on behalf of Bulgari, the dealer wept. Silvestri says there are no rules to what she does. “I play at the gem table, and then something happens,” she says, gently fingering a pile of sweetie-like cabochon stones lying on the design table in front of her. Trays filled with putty are the playground where she and her team arrange the gemstones to create the colourful patterns that will ultimately come to life in the Bulgari jewellery manufacturing studios. In addition to designing the actual pieces, Silvestri also creates new gem cuts when needed: “I don’t like ‘artichokes’ — stones that are too high,” she says. The distinctive Takhti cut is a flat-backed rectangular cabochon, and a stroke of brilliance as a new addition to the Bulgari design signature. Bulgari was also brave enough to turn precious gemstones into beads and add them to much of its current fine jewellery collection to provide a sense of movement. Bulgari has a few distinctive characteristics, with the first being colour. With its Italian flair, there’s no fear here, and rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and amethysts are often combined in riotous splendour. Rome also serves as endless inspiration. Each year a collection will include a graphic reference to a Roman symbol, and the house involves itself in the city’s wellbeing. In 2016, for example, Bulgari funded the refurbishment of the famous Spanish Steps, just 100m from its flagship boutique on the Via Condotti. And then there’s the cabochon. When all the other houses were faceting their stones for maximum sparkle, Bulgari believed in the rich, deep, and sensual effect of the smooth-as-can-be cabochon. At the Bulgari workshop on the outskirts of Rome, a single craftsman works on each piece of jewellery, and each major design from the high jewellery collection can take up to four months to make by hand. This year the theme of the Bulgari collection is Serpenti, with the seductive serpent inspiring everything from jewellery to handbag clips. The hypnotic brilliance of jewelled snake heads and graphic interpretations of snake scales are all features in the 2016 collection.
The world of Bulgari watches Watch collectors will be delighted to know that the iconic Serpenti Tubogas watch is now available in South Africa. Tubogas is a stretch strap technique that Bulgari has been making since the 1940s. Other watch styles include the Octo Finissimo, the thinnest minute repeater watch on the market at 6.85mm, as well as the Octo Ultranero, which ticks the trend box on several levels thanks to its rose gold, octagonal shape, and black face and strap — this season’s hottest colour combination.
The scents of Bulgari This year sees the launch of the Rose Goldea fragrance from Bulgari, inspired by the Serpenti rose gold jewellery collection. The fragrance is a sister to the golden goddess-inspired Goldea, with its signature golden sun stopper. Rose Goldea, designed by master parfumer Alberto Morillas, is heavily inspired by the resurgence in popularity of rose gold. Its contemporary
103
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
Bulgari timepiece from the Serpenti Secret Watch Collection
expression of rose as a fragrance, with none of the old associations of this floral scent, and the result is a thoroughly modern fragrance featuring only a fraction of the floral essence. Next year sees the unveiling of an exciting new male fragrance from Bulgari — the first-ever fragrance for men to be released by the Italian house. Look out for drama and, of course, jewel inspiration in the Le Gemme for Men, which is available exclusively from Harrods in London from December, and in South Africa from March 2017.
young designers
graphic DESIGN
Break the rules with contemporary luxe jewellery that keeps it graphic, asymmetrical, and monochrome photography MALCOLM DARE styling SHEENA BAGSHAWE
BLACK GOLD Open oval link bracelet in 18k rose gold and oxidised silver, worn as choker, R19 500; lion-engraved domed dress ring in 18k rose gold, R43 000, both Charles Greig; B.zero1 ring, R81 999, Bulgari; Buren watch, 32mm, rose gold and leather strap, R1 395; knit, R899, Witchery
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
104
young designers
PRINCESS CUT Necklace Amulette in pink gold and wood, R55 500; Necklace Amulette in yellow gold guilloche with diamond, R67 000, both Cartier; Divaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream bracelet in pink gold and mother-of-pearl, R56 000; Serpenti Forever handbag in metallic gold calfskin, R36 000, both Bulgari; knit, R899, Witchery
105
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
young designers
PERFECT IMPERFECTION 18k white gold diamond earrings with jacket, R395 000, Elegance Jewellers; knit polo neck, R999, Forever New
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
106
young designers
HIS AND HERS He wears: Jet watch, 41mm, stainless steel case and strap, R7 750, Hugo Boss; vest, R1 399, Diesel She wears: Nom Nom necklace in 9k rose gold with treated blue diamond charms and pebbles, short, R91 900; long, R29 500, both Elegance Jewellers; Isla timepiece, R1 299, Mimco; roll-neck knit, R899, Witchery; dungarees, R749, H&M
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
108
Exclusive to SANDTON, EASTGATE, CANAL WALK & GATEWAY
ROSE GOLD RULES Earrings, R1 390, Swarovski; rose gold triometric ring, R549; silver triometric ring; R449; gold triometric ring, R549, all Guess; Calvin Klein bangle in polished pink gold, R2 570; Calvin Klein ring in polished pink gold, R1 300, both The Swatch Group; Phenomena ring, R699, part of stacking set, Mimco; turtleneck, R699, Forever New
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
110
PHOTOGRAPHER MALCOLM DARE; PHOTOGRAPHERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ASSISTANT HUGH FROST; STYLIST SHEENA BAGSHAWE; MAKEUP ARTIST ALEX BOTHA AT LAMPOST; HAIR RENTON WADE AT RED HOT OPS; NAILS POLISH NAIL SPA; MODELS TONI B AT FANJAM, ALINO AT BOSS MODELS
young designers
time 101
collecting
TIME
Building an inspiring collection of timepieces requires both passion and knowledge. Here’s what you need to know to get you started text MATT MORLEY
R
ATHER LIKE SHOES or an outfit, a watch is at its best when in tune with its setting. Having just one watch is a reasonable route for many people, but when means allow there is plenty of fun to be had in building a collection. Doing so requires not only funds, but also time and a little humility early on. There are a few simple guidelines for starting a collection, and the basic set-up requires only four key pieces, after which the aspiring collector can progress to more iconic models, vintage timepieces, grand complications, and limited editions. Throughout this first phase in the collection, selling a watch is to be avoided at all costs. A watch loses half its value as soon as you take it home, representing a financial loss too heavy to justify. First up is the go anywhere and do anything all-rounder. Stainless steel or gold of case and strap, this timepiece will become a central cog in the collection. Play it safe colour-wise by sticking with a neutral dial in white, silver, or black. A Rolex Submariner for men and Datejust for ladies are ideal choices here, as their build quality is second to none and both are timeless classics. The chunkier 40mm Submariner has a black dial and matching diver’s bezel, meaning it works well in both stainless steel and gold options, taking you from boardroom to board shorts — a solid piece of kit. The Lady Oyster Datejust has many options, but thinking long term, opt for neutral specifications in steel or yellow gold. At 26mm in stainless steel and 28mm in yellow gold, it is a suitably petite addition to a lady’s wrist and the matching dials close few doors aesthetically, enhancing the watch’s chameleon-like qualities. The addition of brilliant gold elements and the ridged bezel add an extra touch of personality too. From there we move on to a more formal dress watch, at which point men and women momentarily part ways. An all-black dial and strap combination for men is perennially useful. For that, an IWC Portugieser in stainless steel with a black alligator strap and black dial is ideal, either with or without a chronograph function. Its symmetry and poise make it a true aficionado’s choice. For ladies, formal occasions open up a whole world of colour and decorative finishes. At this early stage in the collection though, we’re still looking for maximum usability, so we’ll opt for a nondistinctive colour, while introducing some diamonds for the first time. Vacheron Constantin’s newly relaunched Overseas collection has a 37mm model aimed at female buyers, with a rosy beige dial and 84
round-cut diamonds in the 18K gold bezel. When paired with the rosy beige alligator leather strap, it is a guaranteed winner. There are occasions when something more conservative helps play the “understated self-confidence” card; in these instances, a timepiece inspired by watchmaking designs from the 18th century is called for. The Breguet Classique 7147 in 18k rose gold, or its more complicated big brother, the Classique 5327 with a perpetual calendar, both with a brown leather strap and white dial, fit the bill and will never date. Both are unisex and match well with brown leather shoes and a belt. The final box to tick in the basic collection is a sporty piece designed for action. Within the automatic watch sector we’re looking at a chunky dive watch, such as the recently relaunched Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman or Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay. The Hamilton model is water-resistant to 100m with a screw-down crown lock and red aluminum rotating bezel, available in 42mm or 46mm versions. Its accessible price point also means that you can feel comfortable throwing it into a gym bag or wearing it in the water. Tudor’s 41mm Black Bay has a Tudormanufactured automatic movement and distinctive snowflake-shaped hands, but it is the burgundy bezel and aged leather strap combination that gives this watch its vintage 1950s look. Not only that, it feels robust and reassuringly solid on the wrist. The ultimate collection goal is limited edition timepieces — either commemorative or playing on the rarity of the materials and the man-hours required to produce them, and the 2016 fairs delivered several gems. Blancpain’s The Great Wave comes out of the brand’s craftsmanship studio and uses Mexican silver obsidian, which forms the watch’s dial. A white gold engraving inspired by a Japanese print of a wave is then applied on top, having first been coated in Japanese rokusho salts to give it a unique dusty patina. Montblanc is celebrating its 110th anniversary with 110 pieces of the ExoTourbillon Slim watch, with a fully exposed movement visible through the sapphire case back, and a unique hand-painted map of either North America, Asia, or Europe and North Africa on the dial. Parmigiani’s Tonda Chronor Anniversaire is a perfect example of the understated brilliance it has become known for since launching 20 years ago. An enamel dial is matched with a white or rose gold case and an all-gold, hand-wound movement with a chronograph, fly-back hand, and large date functions. A powerful addition to any collection.
The basic setup requires only four key pieces, after which the aspiring collector can progress
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
112
time 101 THE ALL ROUNDER WATCH
Rolex Submariner in stainless steel, R96 000, and 18k gold, R440 200, rolex.com
Rolex Lady Datejust 28mm in gold on a President bracelet, R316 000, and 26mm in steel on a Jubilee bracelet, R93 300, rolex.com
THE LOW KEY WATCH
THE DRESS WATCH
IWC Portugieser Chronograph in stainless steel, R122 000, and 7-Day Automatic in stainless steel, R191 000, iwc.com
Vacheron Constantin Overseas small model in rose gold with diamonds, R362 500, vacheron-constantin.com
THE BASIC COLLECTION
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman, R22 900, hamiltonwatch.com
Breguet Classique 7147 in 18k rose gold, R235 200, and Classique 5327 in 18k rose gold with perpetual calendar, R786 000, breguet.com
LIMITED EDITIONS
Tudor Heritage Black Bay, R47 740, tudorwatch.com
Blancpain Métiers d’Art The Great Wave, price on request, blancpain.com
113
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim 110 Years Edition, price on request, montblanc.com
Parmigiani Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, price on request, parmigiani.com
fragrance
how to wear your Over the years, there have been many written and unwritten rules regarding scent. In 2016, the trends in fragrance reflect our societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s need not to be painted with one brush. As it turns out, individuality is definitely key text MATHAHLE STOFILE photography SARAH DE PINA styling TESSA PASSMORE
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
114
fragrance
FRAGRANCE THIS SUMMER BLURRED LINES Before the mid-nineteenth century, there was no such thing as a male- or female-targeted fragrance. The concept really took off around the same time fragrance advertising started booming and highly gendered campaigns became the norm. Who could ever forget Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic Classique and Le Male fragrances, shaped like a female torso and a male torso, respectively? Many brands, specifically designer fashion brands that reach a mass market through their beauty offering, still follow this successful formula. Smaller luxury brands that target a more niche audience, however, tend to stay away from the pour homme or pour femme labels completely — and this too works well for the market. Just like back in the nineteenth century, men today will happily walk around smelling of rose and jasmine, while women are free to wear a wood-based fragrance laced with vetiver. Scent, after all, is a very personal and subjective thing. The idea of feminine-masculine scents that are neither girly nor macho is more than just accepted, it is desired. Much like in fashion, in beauty we are seeing more brands challenging gender and sexual identity lines.
BESPOKE Some niche luxury fragrance brands offering their clients an opportunity to create a scent that is unique to the wearer. Imagine going into a perfume store, handpicking the key
notes, and walking out with your idea in a bottle. This individuality has always been at the core of fragrance — scents smell different on each person’s skin, but recently perfumers have taken it a step further, creating bespoke fragrances from scratch for the discerning customer.
INGREDIENTS When making a fragrance, top-quality ingredients are crucial and the more difficult they are to extract, the more expensive the fragrance. Many of the ingredients are old favourites that have never really gone out of style — rose, patchouli, vanilla, orange blossom, lavender, musk — while others have only recently begun enjoying the attention of perfume houses. Generally, florals tend to work for any season in different variations, while fruity is still largely reserved for warmer months. A scent such as Creed Aventus For Her fits into the fruity category, with opening notes of green apple, lemon, and patchouli, and base ingredients, including amber and musk, that cut the fruitiness for a balance of freshness and depth. Woods are traditionally worn in winter, although this is changing as woody scents become more popular. Oud has definitely enjoyed a lot of attention in recent years, both in male-targeted fragrances and those marketed to women. Warmer ingredients, such as caramel and vanilla, are also being mixed with sharper citrus notes, such as bitter orange, green tangerine, lemon, and grapefruit, as with Boucheron
115
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
Quatre For Women. Musk is making a comeback and usually sits at the base of fragrances containing rich ingredients such as patchouli, vetiver, amber, and bergamot — Balmain’s Extatic Gold Musk includes florals such as jasmine, orchid, and iris. Rose is another old favourite that has made a return in many variations, such as the popular Bulgarian rose. Bvlgari’s Rose Goldea and Montblanc’s Lady Emblem — a fruity floral with pink rose, peach, musk patchouli and rosewood — give it a fresh, modern twist.
ALL-SEASON FRAGRANCE Fragrances such as Balmain Homme, with its metallic freshness and bergamot notes, are typically associated with summer months and long beach holidays, while dense, heavier scents are usually worn in winter. But these rules are fast becoming a thing of the past, as it becomes perfectly acceptable to wear a warm, spicy scent as heavy as Bulgari Man in Black, on a summer afternoon — but take care not to overapply. In the same vein, you can wear summer classics, such the original fruity Creed Aventus, adored by both men and women, or the newer Boucheron Quatre Pour Homme, in the colder months. Quatre opens with fresh lime and lemon, with a heart of jasmine and rose settling into woody tones of cedar, and traces of musk and cashmere. Don’t overthink it, have fun with your fragrance of choice, and experiment with wearing it however and whenever you want.
She wears: Dress, Ted Baker at Stuttafords; jet-beaded choker, Elegance Jewellers; heels, Schutz at Europa Art Shoes He wears: Shirt, Kurt Geiger; suit, Ermenegildo Zegna
www.mbworld.co.za
stockists
stockist list @home home.co.za 100% Capri 021 885 8160 Apsley House 011 325 4250; 021 418 0061 Audemars Piguet available at Boutique Haute Horlogerie, 011 325 4119 Aya aya.co.uk Baume & Mercier 011 317 2600 Blancpain available at Elegance Jewellers, 011 684 1380; Tanur Collection, 021 418 5524 Boardmans boardmans.co.za Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011 325 4119; 021 418 1889 Breguet available at Elegance Jewellers, 011 684 1380; Tanur Collection, 021 418 5524 Breitling 0861 001 884 Bulgari 011 883 1325 Bulgari Fragrances available at Prestige Cosmetics, 011 341 4900 Buren 011 372 6000 Calvin Klein 011 911 1200 Cartier 011 666 2800 Carvela available at Spitz, 0860 109 321 Catheryne Gaeyla 011 447 2550 Charles Greig 011 325 4477 Chopard 021 421 4296 Creed Fragrances available at Bacher & Company, 011 372 6000 Diesel 021 885 8160 Dogfight available at Bacher & Company, 011 372 6000 Elegance Jewellers 011 684 1384 / 80 Ermenegildo Zegna 011 326 7767 Europa Art Shoes 011 883 5354
Emerald bracelet in yellow gold, R26 550; emerald necklace in yellow gold, R42 735, both Aya for Gemfields
Festina 011 372 6000 Forever New 011 685 7000; 021 419 4552 Forevermark available at Carat Co, 011 011 9100; 021 418 1302 Ferrari 011 372 6000 Gant 011 707 7300 Gemfields 083 603 1188; 010 900 4266 Generation 011 325 6302 Guess Jewellery 011 372 6000 Graff 021 885 8160 H&M hm.co.za Hamilton 011 911 1200 Home Fabrics homefabrics.co.za Honor available at Blue Sky Brand Company, 021 201 1049 Hugo Boss 011 372 6000 IWC 011 317 2600 Jaeger-LeCoultre 011 317 2600 Kurt Geiger 0860 434 437 Longines 011 911 1200 Macallan available at ABV Brands, 021 801 6181 Mango 011 783 7907; 021 418 0916 Marianne Fassler 011 646 8387 Mercedes-Benz South Africa 080 013 3355 Metal Concentrators 021 510 0770 Mimco mimco.co.za Movado 011 372 6000 Michel Herbelin 011 448 2210 Montblanc 011 317 2600 Montblanc Lady Emblem available at Bacher & Company, 011 372 6000 Montblanc Legend Spirit available at Bacher & Company, 011 372 6000
Olga Jewellers 021 419 8016 Omega 011 911 1200 Panerai available at Charles Greig, 011 325 4477; Elegance Jewellers, 011 684 1380; Panerai Boutique, 011 784 0012 Patek Philippe 011 784 2595 Paul Smith 011 268 0263 Polish Nail Spa polishnailspa.co.za Rado 011 911 1200 Roger Dubuis available at The Vault, 011 684 2023 Rolex rolex.com Rotary 011 448 2210 Row-G by appointment, 011 853 0000 Shemer Jewellers 011 622 4735 / 6900 Shimansky 011 784 5557; 021 402 7926 Spilhaus 021 461 7000 Spitz 0860 109 321 Stuttafords 011 879 1000 Swarovski 021 461 7000 Swatch 011 911 1200 TAG Heuer Monza available at Boutique Haute Horlogerie, 011 325 4119 Thomas Pink 011 325 4098 Tissot 011 911 1247 Traceyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Diamonds 021 876 4655 Tudor tudorwatch.com TW Steel 011 448 2210 Vacheron Constantin 011 317 2600 VanaShree 021 885 8160 Veronica Anderson Jewellery 011 268 2021 Vienna Jewellers 012 460 7231 Witchery witchery.co.za Woolworths woolworths.co.za
WIN TERMS AND CONDITIONS The promotion starts at 6am on Friday October 28 2016, and ends at 10pm on Wednesday November 30 2016. No late entries will be accepted. The winner will be drawn at random from both our SMS line and from entries on wantedonline.co.za, and contacted telephonically by Times Media Group. The prize may not be exchanged for cash. By entering the competition you accept that the publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision is final. The competition is not open to employees of Times Media (Pty) Ltd, its media agencies, or their immediate families.
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
118
competition
WIN
AN UNFORGETTABLE OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE YOUR VERY OWN NOM NOM CHARM NECKLACE VALUED AT R30 000 WITH COMPLIMENTS FROM ELEGANCE JEWELLERS, A PROUD MEMBER OF THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA. YOUR BESPOKE NOM NOM NECKLACE WILL TELL YOUR LIFE’S STORY THROUGH A CHOICE OF EXQUISITELY CRAFTED CHARMS, GEMSTONES, AND THE ICONIC NOM NOM PEBBLES
Jewellery has, since time immemorial, been a symbol of lasting affection and a precious manifestation of love and passion. As adornment, it is a statement of beauty, style and elegance; just think of style icons such as Cleopatra, Elizabeth Taylor and Rihanna, who all share an affinity for the beautiful. The investment and emotional value of a jewellery purchase — no matter how big or small — is an important one, and something you should give due care and attention to. Always make sure you buy from a reputable jeweller who is a member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa. Our members abide by a Code of Ethics and Conduct, ensuring you make a well-informed purchase. You can buy with confidence from an accredited Jewellery Council Member. For a list of jewellers in your area, visit:
jewellery.org.za or contact us by email on admin@jewellery.org.za or telephone on 011 484 5528
QUESTION: Which jeweller created the Nom Nom charm necklace? TO ENTER: SMS the keyword WantedWJL, along with your answer, full name and a phone number to 40730. SMSes cost R1.50 CLOSING DATE: November 30 2016 T&Cs on page 118
119
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6 / 1 7
quality control
the certification question text MATT MORLEY
R
ECENTLY WE’VE SEEN a number of luxury watch brands developing their own in-house certificates of quality, going beyond mere Swiss Made and other third party certificates. This trend mirrors that of watch movement production moving in-house, and away from external suppliers; complete vertical integration, it seems, is now the name of the game. For the consumer however, the result is a confusing array of seals and certificates. Here is our guide to help you cut through the noise.
COSC The Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (or Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres — Cosc) is an independent, privately owned, third party organisation that has established its certification as an industry standard for high-end mechanical watches, ensuring accuracy to within -4 to +6 seconds a day.
METAS The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology is responsible for the dissemination of the official time in Switzerland. It recently collaborated with Omega to develop the Master Chronometer.
MONTBLANC 500 LABORATORY TEST A total of 500 hours of in-laboratory testing time that was previously applied only to a small number of
high-end Montblanc watches has now been rolled out to the entire Heritage Chronométrie collection, with more to come. Tests simulate the first year of a watch’s lifecycle in the factory over 500 hours, flushing out any technical faults in the process.
OMEGA MASTER CHRONOMETER A new denomination created by Omega in 2015, and accredited by Metas, each movement must first be Cosc certified and is then subjected to additional tests that replicate real-life wearing conditions. These focus on power reserve capacity, chronometric precision, water resistance, and resistance to magnetic fields.
POINÇON DE GENÈVE/ GENEVA SEAL The seal was ostensibly introduced in 1886 as an emblem of Geneva’s fine watchmaking skills; its focus today is on provenance, quality, craftsmanship, and reliability. By tying itself to a specific geographic area, namely the Swiss canton of Geneva, this certification harks back to an era of traditions, guilds, and master craftsmen. Today it is a highly regarded for its standards in decorative finishes on a watch.
QUALITÉ FLEURIER This certification was launched in 2001 by a collective made up of Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier, Bovet Fleurier, and the Vaucher watch manufacture, all based in and around the Swiss town of Fleurier. The certificate introduced its own aesthetic and technical
criteria, while choosing not to limit itself to a specific geographic area, unlike the Poinçon de Genèva. A watch’s case, display, and movement must all be 100% Swiss Made, it should have a Cosc certificate, not contain any plastic, withstand a 24-hour stress test, and have decorative finishing.
ROLEX SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER This in-house certification was launched in 2015, and is now applied to all watches that leave the mega-brand’s factory floor. It is intended to go beyond existing standards in accuracy, and focuses on precision, power reserve endurance, waterproofness, and self-winding efficiency. It has an accuracy range of +2/-2 seconds per day, in addition to the Cosc certificate tests, helping to justify the superlative denomination.
SWISS MADE This certification denotes a watch containing a Swiss movement that was cased up in Switzerland, and that has been inspected in Switzerland. After a number of mass market watch brands began exploiting the expansive loop holes in this denomination’s criteria, heavily devaluing it in the process, from 2017 onwards a watch’s Swissness will not be assessed using the movement alone, but rather the entire watch. High-end brands typically look for a more prestigious certification in addition to Swiss Made as a way to distinguish themselves from the mass market.
Switzerland does everything in its power to uphold the image of a Swiss watch being inherently superior to anything made outside of the country, rather like French sparkling wine from Champagne or Italian prosciutto from Parma
W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 6
00
www.michel-herbelin.co.za | Stockist enquiries: (011) 448 2210 Michel Herbelin South Africa
@mherbelinsa
La Musicale. Classique wristwatch 7800BR in 18-carat rose gold chiming “La Badinerie” by Jean-Sébastien Bach.
E L E G A N C E J E W E L L E R S G R A N D B O U T I Q U E , M E L R O S E A R C H , J O H A N N E S B U R G , S O U T H A F R I C A + 2 7 11 6 8 4 13 8 0 TA N U R J E W E L L E R S S H O P 14 7 , V I C T O R I A W H A R F, V & A W AT E R F R O N T, C A P E T O W N , S O U T H A F R I C A + 2 7 2 1 4 18 5 5 2 4
MUSICALE_Wanted_275x335.indd 4
01.09.16 15:57