THE EDIT MAN SPRING/SUMMER ’15
EXCLUSIVE
Marvellous MISTER
UP-CLOSE WITH THE MAN BEHIND BYREDO
IN CHRIS MODE THE HABITS OF A FASHION DIRECTOR THE DREAMERS ROCK’N’ROLL, BOHEMIAN-SUMMER DRESSING
everyday gentleman
TIMELESS GUIDELINES FOR THE TRUE GENTLEMAN
021-418 0045
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THE EDIT MAN EDITORIAL EDITOR Tiaan Nagel nagelt@sundaytimes.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Megan Guyt COPY EDITOR Kholeka Kumalo MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure FASHION EDITOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto BEAUTY EDITOR Tessa Passmore DESIGNER Thembekile Vokwana PROOFREADER Yvonne Fontyn
ADVERTISING
September 2015
CONTENTS upfront ED’S LETTER IT LIST fashion & beauty All that utility Clear view Grey scale Cut-throat Oh, happy day
Celebrating Chris Viljoen, a local fashion icon
IN CONVERSATION WITH Tyrone Arendse
10 11 12 14 16
20 38
fashion THE DREAMERS Romantic, old-school rock’n’roll dressing
24
feature EVERYDAY GENTLEMAN 10 timeless tips by Neil Doveton
30
beauty COVER STORY: BEN GORHAM Getting to know the Byredo founder
MANE ATTRACTION Making the most of your locks
FIRST PORT OF CALL The best beauty buys on Craig Port’s top shelf
ACCOUNT MANAGERS Faith Thomas faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998 Charlotte Nutman (coastal) nutmanc@timesmedia.co.za, 078 358 6154
8
interview GO YOUR OWN WAY
BUSINESS MANAGER Tamsyn McCrow mccrowt@sundaytimes.co.za, 083 288 3319, 011 340 9650
32 34 64
ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear
PUBLISHER Andrew Gill
20 11
PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng Published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd 4 Biermann Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg. © Copyright: Times Media (Pty) Ltd. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit Man is published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Times Media (Pty) Ltd. All advertisements, advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.
Stockists on page 29
10
12 6
THE EDIT MAN September 2015
CONTRIBUTORS Algria Ferreira
ALGRIA IS A MAKEUP ARTIST, WHO WORKED ON GROOMING FOR OUR CHRIS VILJOEN FEATURE. 1 summer tipple? Carrot juice with lemon, cinnamon and ice from the Loading Bay. R100 for a secret Santa gift? Merci medal, a pendant with red thread for the wrist and the word “merci” on it. A holiday destination 1 000km away? Babylonstoren. The ultimate hideaway.
,
THE ED s
LETTER “GONE ARE THE DAYS WHEN MEN ABIDE BY WEARING CLASSIC CHINOS AND CHECKED SHIRTS”
8 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Travys Owen
PHOTOGRAPHER TRAVYS SHOT CHRIS VILJOEN FOR OUR FEATURE, GO YOUR OWN WAY. 1 summer tipple? Gin and tonic. R100 for a secret Santa gift? Something practical and unisex, like a R100 gift voucher. A holiday destination 1 000km away? A holiday in the Transkei. We have the best beaches in the world. 10am on a Monday? Usually on set shooting, or dealing with e-mails. Boring, I know.
Neil Doveton
EDITOR AT MRDOVETON.COM, NEIL, WROTE OUR EVERYDAY GENTLEMAN FEATURE. 1 summer tipple? Anything virgin. I’ve danced on enough tables in my lifetime! R100 for a secret Santa gift? An
expensive bar of soap. Who spoils themselves these days with a luxurious bar of soap? A holiday destination 10 000km away? Koh Kham, a remote little island off the South China Sea. I’ve holidayed there four times – it’s the perfect destination to escape the madness of city life. There are never more than 15 people on the island. 10am on a Monday? I could be suited-up for a client meeting or in sneakers and shorts shooting a fashion editorial on a beach or banging away at my laptop.
NEIL DOVETON’S PORTRAIT BY LUKE KUISIS
The menswear offering in South Africa has changed dramatically over the last few years, and aside from new international luxury brands entering the market, the local designer assortment has increased tenfold. From bespoke tailored suits by Rahim Rawjee at Row-G to conceptual yet ready-to-wear collections by Cape Town-label Adriaan Kuiters, the opportunity for men to look stylish every day is endless. The local fashion industry has evolved and designers are exploring new narratives every season. Gone are the days when men abide by wearing classic chinos and checked shirts only. Now, we consider every detail, from the perfect-size polka-dot socks to the right shade of navy for our lightweight summer parkas. One such person who obsesses over fine details like we do in The Edit office is fashion director Chris Viljoen. I have followed his inspirational career since my student days. Chris can spot a microtrend long before most of us have even picked up on the previous season’s trend, knot a tie on set just the right way and tweak a collar or cuff a few centimetres to change the entire dynamic of a styled frame. For this issue, we sat down with one of our favourite local fashion icons (see page 20). I’m incredibly proud of our first men’s issue, The Edit Man. It’s an opportunity to celebrate everyday and extraordinary gentlemen, such as Byredo founder and perfumer Ben Gorham, who we interviewed (see page 32). Being a gentleman is all in the details, and Ben’s meticulous nature has enabled him to build one of Sweden’s most luxurious fragrance houses. I hope you enjoy our selection of the finest menswear offerings out there this season, and while you’re at it, get acquainted with some of the gents we find inspirational.
IT LIST / FASHION Crabtree & Evelyn Black Absinthe Eau de Cologne, R950 for 100ml
Belt, R399, Country Road
ALL THAT
UTILITY For this season’s casual take on utility, modern military meets classic safari. Pair soft khakis with easy joggers and the essential summer sandal PRODUCTION Roxanne
Day-Date 40 Everose watch, R439 600, Rolex
Robinson Cufflinks, R2 865, Montblanc
LANVIN
Golf shirt, R900, Ted Baker
Joggers, R699, Country Road
Duffle bag, R3 899, Tiger of Sweden
,
THE EDIT s
Pants, R0 000, Xxxxx Xxxxx
Aēsop Coriander Seed Body Cleanser, R600 for 500ml
Sandals, R1 595, Kurt Geiger
Pouch, R7 572, Louis Vuitton
Burberry sunglasses, R2 420, Luxottica 10 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Lipidol After Shave Oil, R80
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY CATWALKING/GETTY IMAGES, SUPPLIED
choice
Stockists on page 29
IT LIST / FASHION
THE ACCESSORY
CLEAR
VIEW PHOTOGRAPHY Waldo Swiegers PRODUCTION Roxanne Robinson Thierry Lasry, R6 500, Eye Candy Illesteva, R2 499, Scar Reflective, R1 950, Emporio Armani Tinted lenses, R3 500, Paul Smith Giaguaro, R2 499, Retrosuperfuture
HERE COMES THE SUN, LITTLE DARLING. THIS SEASON’S ULTIMATE ACCESSORY IS A PAIR OF PERSPEX SUNGLASSES
Stockists on page 29
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 11
IT LIST / FASHION Sweater, R3 499, Tiger of Sweden
GREY
SCALE Take your sartorial cue from Nick Wooster. Don a light linen suit that is part-traditional, part-sporty and a whole lot of gentleman PRODUCTION Roxanne
Tablet sleeve, R570, Ted Baker
Robinson Tie, R549, Trenery
NEIL BARRETT Pen, R7 500, Cartier
,
THE EDIT s
choice
Shirt, R2 999, Tiger of Sweden Blazer, R7 599, Tiger of Sweden
Frederique Constant timepiece, R11 995, Picot and Moss
Davines Strong Dry Wax, R330
Shoes, R16 340, Louis Vuitton
Givenchy Gentleman Only, R1 235 for 100ml EDT 12 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Duffle bag, R13 499, Tumi
Trousers, R879, River Island
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY CATWALKING/GETTY IMAGES, SUPPLIED
Rib-knit top, R399, River Island
Stockists on page 29
MODERN
MAN ABOUT
TOWN GET THE
LOOK
Smart shirts Fitted Jackets Tailored pants Belts Shoes Accessories
OPEN AN ACCOUNT
*
WHEN YOU SPEND R1000 OR MORE SMS YOUR NAME AND ID NUMBER TO 078 431 1056 OR GO ONLINE TO JOHNCRAIG.CO.ZA FOR ACCOUNT APPROVAL
E+I 20862
www.johncraig.co.za Toll-free hotline 0800 116 009 *Terms & conditions apply. E&OE. John Craig (Pty) Ltd., is a registered Credit Provider (NCRCP439) and an authorised Financial Services Provider (43855)
IT LIST / BEAUTY
CUT
THROAT
There’s no need for shaving to be a tedious task. With these products, each swipe of a razor, swish of a brush and scent of a balm will be something pleasurable PRODUCTION Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Waldo Swiegers
Kiehl’s Powerful Wrinkle Reducing Cream with Sunscreen SPF30, R825 Copper and calcium help protect and fortify the skin – a great daily moisturiser. L’Occitane Cade Shaving OilOrganic Certified, R295 Helps soften tough hair before shaving and creates an effective barrier between the skin and razor blade. Crabtree & Evelyn Indian Sandalwood After Shave Balm, R600 The woody scent contains oat kernel extract, shea butter and sweet almond oil to nourish skin post-shave. Crabtree & Evelyn Moroccan Myrrh Shave Cream, R400 Enriched with vitamin E, this cream will make your skin feel supple and contains notes of bergamot, cardamom, amber and myrrh. Kiehl’s Dermatologist Solutions Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate, R745 Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant in this formula, which helps protect skin from pollution.
14 THE EDIT MAN Sptember 2015
Acqua di Parma Razor and Shaving Brush, R10 700 for a set, Apsley House This Italian razor-and-brush duo is the ultimate pair in shaving luxury. Comfort Zone Skin Regimen Juvenate-Pro Booster, R1 235 Hydrates, soothes and protects skin and contains antioxidants and wrinkle-busting ingredients like retinol and hyaluronic acid, which also provide a serious moisture boost. Aēsop Protective Body Lotion SPF50, R550 If you hate sticky sunblock, this peppermint-scented lotion is for you. The high SPF protects sensitive skin. Aēsop Deodorant, R450 Aluminium-free and formulated with eleven essential oils to keep you feeling fresh. Eucerin Men Silver Shave Shaving Foam (in bowl), R100 The foam is moisturising, refreshing and includes active silver ions, which are antibacterial and antiseptic.
IT LIST / BEAUTY
OH, HAPPY
DAY
Lush, fresh and positively summery, grassy accords add a dry, herby aroma to fragrances. From zesty lemon grass to earthy vetiver, here are some of our favourites PHOTOGRAPHY Waldo Swiegers PRODUCTION Tessa Passmore
Boss The Collection Cotton & Verbena Hugo Boss, R1 515 for 50ml EDT Verbena, vetiver, moss. Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Collection Vetiver, R3 090 for 50ml EDP Mediterranean fig, vetiver, galbanum. Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, R1 550 for 100ml Sichuan pepper, kumquat, jasmine. Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, R1 245 for 50ml EDT Citrus, nutmeg, vetiver. Christian Dior Privée Eau Noire, R3 305 for 250ml EDP Thyme, lavender, liquorice L’Occitane Eau de Vétyver, R740 for 100ml EDT Vetiver, cedarwood, nutmeg. Guerlain Vetiver, R930 for 50ml Lemon, bergamot, pepper.
16 THE EDIT MAN Sptember 2015
EXCLUSIVE TO WOOLWORTHS
COVER - Cotton linen-blend blazer from R1399 | Cotton slub tee from R199 | Cotton cuffed jogger with stretch from R499 THIS PAGE - Pure cotton shirt with stretch from R350 | Pleated trouser from R599 | Dress-up sandal from R699 (available mid October) OPPOSITE PAGE - Studio.w cotton biker from R 1 199 | Studio.w golf tee from R 350 | Studio.w printed shorts from R 350 (Products available at selected Woolworths stores, while stocks last.)
W INTERVIEW / EXCLUSIVE
GO YOUR OWN
WAY
FASHION DIRECTOR CHRIS VILJOEN HAS LONG HAD A HIGHLY OBSESSIVE RELATIONSHIP WITH FASHION. WE CELEBRATE ONE OF SA’S FASHION ICONS
TEXT Malibongwe Tyilo PHOTOGRAPHY Travys Owen/One League GROOMING Algria Ferreira using MAC
20 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
INTERVIEW / EXCLUSIVE
THERE’S NO DENYING THAT FASHION HAS LONG BEEN A SEDUCTIVE INDUSTRY. A QUICK LOOK AT THE NUMBER OF FASHION BLOGGERS, INSTAGRAMMERS AND STYLISTS TRYING THEIR HAND AT IT WILL CONFIRM THAT IT’S MORE SEDUCTIVE THAN EVER. FOR A FEW, LIKE SPREE FASHION DIRECTOR CHRIS VILJOEN, IT’S AN INSATIABLE ADDICTION.
“I have always remembered important instances in my life through clothing. I remember what I wore to my Grade 7 dance. I remember what my mother wore when we fetched my dad from the airport. I remember what Christan wore the first time I saw him,” Viljoen says, referring to his partner of 14 years, with whom he shares a home and two cats in Greenpoint, Cape Town. “In the early ’90s I lived in London for a year and a half. I got a job at Joseph, an iconic fashion store attached to a coffee shop, Joe’s Cafe. Because of the profile of the cafe, we got really wealthy types and celebs coming in,” says Viljoen in his softspoken voice. “One of the waitresses and I used to play a game we called ‘spot the label’. We’d try and guess what the customers were wearing. So, when I wasn’t at the cafe, I’d go to Harrods and literally study the fashion brands, and also try to see how they moved on from season to season so I could pre-empt where they would be going to next.” This is the first glimpse into Viljoen’s obsessive relationship with fashion. Over two decades later and armed with a wealth of experience, his approach continues to serve him well. “To this day,” he says, his index finger wagging back and forth for added emphasis, “I’m still obsessed with stores. Even when I meet people, I can tell where they bought their outfits from, especially the main, big department stores, because I’m in there all the time.” The 46-year-old grew up in Johannesburg’s West Rand during the ’80s, which is hardly what one would ever refer to as South Africa’s fashion Mecca, “I always wanted to partake in global culture and fashion was the way I got to participate,” Viljoen recalls. “I used to go to the Flora Centre back then, the first big shopping centre in the West Rand, and there was a huge CNA I went to religiously to read the latest Vogue or GQ. They were probably fivemonths old by the time they made it to SA.” Upon returning from London in the mid-’90s and encountering a lull in the local fashion industry,
Viljoen took up “spot the label” once more. “I would go into downtown Joburg and try to find a shoe that looked like the new Prada shoe, or I’d get something and alter it and make it look like a Versace or whatever I was into at that point. I was always on this constant hunt.” A few years later, Viljoen was unsure about what do to with himself, but certain he didn’t want to return to photography, which he had studied prior to his travels. He found his way into styling jobs, which eventually saw him creating work for major retailers and commercial campaigns, and finally, with the help of Sarie editor (then beauty editor) Michelle van Breda, started styling for major fashion titles. But something about freelancing was not the right fit. “I got to a point where I realised that I found it difficult to be a freelancer who walks into a project, executes, and then leaves. I get so invested, so involved in whatever I work on, that I find it incredibly difficult to detach,” Viljoen says. “So then I became fashion editor of De Kat and Tribute. It was a great time for me, creatively. I had no assistant and I worked nonstop.” That was more than 15 years ago, and since then, Viljoen has built up a dream CV, having worked as FHM fashion director and winning multiple awards, then working as a trend consultant for a major fashion retailer, before moving on to become Elle fashion director – his last stop before joining Sarie and eventually becoming part of Spree’s launch team. During that period, Viljoen enjoyed the kinds of opportunities most fashion addicts can only fantasise about. “While working for De Kat, I went to Paris fashion shows once or twice. One of the first shows I got to see was back in the late ’90s at the carousel in Paris,” he shares. “Anna Wintour was there, Grace Coddington was there. The thrill of that was amazing!” . . . not to mention, excitement that is still clearly visible in Viljoen’s wide-open eyes as he recounts. “Then when I got to FHM I got to go regularly. This world that had opened was really
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 21
INTERVIEW / EXCLUSIVE
FAVOURITE 5
ON STYLE: “I have minimalist intentions, but it always turns into a circus.” ON ALMOST ALWAYS WEARING BLACK: “The older I get the more I realise that the uniform is probably the best way to dress.” FAVOURITE DESIGNER? “Rick Owens, at the moment.” CAREER HIGHLIGHT? “Probably the very first show I went to in Paris. It was Christian Lacroix.” OBESSIONS? “I have a big thing for shoes. I will pay a lot of money for shoes but I look after them and make sure they last forever.” THE FIRST THING YOU BOUGHT WHEN YOU STARTED MAKING MONEY? “Red jeans at Moola on Small Street in Joburg CBD.” CAPE TOWN OR JOBURG? “I love living in Cape Town and I love my life here, but I find it very small. It’s a bit of a fishing village. I love Joburg for its exuberance and that everyone is there to make their lives better.”
“I LOVE THE IDEA OF THE FUTURE SUBSTANTIALLY MUCH MORE THAN THE IDEA OF THE PAST” just so unbelievable; a fantasy. I saw one of the first Tom Ford shows, I saw the last one when he resigned, I saw John Galliano in Paris. Just incredible!” Today, as Spree fashion director, living in the global world social media has opened up, as well as a South Africa with a fashion industry that is a far cry from what he had returned to all those years ago, Viljoen is more excited than ever. “I sit almost in the middle of the business. I work with the buying department and my team does a seasonal trend focus along with regular updates. We also assist with range building, marketing initiatives, and visuals; we help with the generation of content for the magazine,
22 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
newsletters, and Instagram. It is the best place to be, close to the ‘now’. I find that extremely exciting.” Viljoen’s passion for all things ‘now’ is one that crosses over into his own personal style too. “I wear classics and they underpin everything, but I’m very trend-oriented. It’s important to be of the times, in thinking and dress. I want to look like I live in 2015,” . . . a slight pause . . . “I don’t see how anybody can ever get over fashion. There’s so much more to it than meets the eye. I still watch the shows, preferably live, even if they’re at 3am in the morning. I am in fashion because I love the idea of the future substantially much more than the idea of the past.”
JODY PAULSEN,
1 2 3 4 5 ARTIST
We ask Jody to pick his top five fashion websites
1. Skattie.com. I admire Malibongwe Tyilo for his grounded approach to fashion. He makes local fashion accessible to a mass audience without compromising his strong journalistic point of view. 2. Corrigall.org. Mary Corrigall is a gifted writer and critic. Although she can be quite biting, I respect her honesty. Well-written, critical fashion journalism is very hard to come by in South Africa. 3. Style.com [now Vogue Runway]. I have childhood memories of watching former Style.com editor at large Tim Blanks on the show “Fashion File”. He still delivers the most exciting backstage interviews during fashion week. 4. Vogue.co.uk. Ever since high school, I have read Suzy Menkes’s Herald Tribune column. She now writes exclusively for Vogue online and it’s mesmerising how quickly she delivers her journalism. 5. Rookie.com. I’m a big Tavi Gevinson fan. Her voice is important as it combines fashion with other cultural topics such as gender, politics and the psychology of the millennial generation. Her writing addresses authenticity in an age where one feels as though everything has already been done.
FASHION
T THE
DREAMERS A MODERN ROMANTIC TAKE ON OLD-SCHOOL ROCK’N’ROLL WAYS
PHOTOGRAPHY
24 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Steve Tanchel/Red Hot Ops
PRODUCTION Roxanne
Robinson
FASHION
Tom Ford silk pyjamas, R24 900, 2A; Geraldine Fenn dragon pendant necklace, R1 200, Geraldine Fenn cluster pendant necklace, R4 800, Geraldine Fenn gold signet ring, R5 500, all Tinsel
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 25
FASHION
Saint Laurent leather jacket, R75 000, 2A; trousers, R2 299, Tiger of Sweden; hat, R650, Simon and Mary; belt, R499, Trenery; necklace, stylist’s own
26 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
FASHION
Top, R8 500, Paul Smith; Alexander McQueen trousers, R15 200, Luminance; socks, stylist’s own; Christian Louboutin brogues, R24 900, Bottega Veneta wristbands, from R4 800 each, all 2A; Geraldine Fenn gold signet ring, R5 500, Tinsel
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 27
FASHION
Alexander McQueen bomber jacket, R27 200, Luminance; shirt, R7 995, Versace Collection; trousers, R6 195, Paul Smith; hat, R650, Simon and Mary; Bottega Veneta sandals, R9 900, Bottega Veneta wristbands, from R4 800 each, all 2A; Geraldine Fenn gold signet ring, R5 500, Tinsel OPPOSITE PAGE Jersey, R6 995, Paul Smith; trousers, R1 295, Presidential; Geraldine Fenn gold signet ring, R5 500, Tinsel
28 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
FASHION
STOCKISTS
TEAM PRODUCTION Roxanne Robinson PHOTOGRAPHY Steve Tanchel/Red Hot Ops GROOMING Liz van der Merwe/Red Hot Ops MODEL Tom Revington PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Chris Bezuidenhout FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto
2A 011 325 4545 Apsley House apsleygroup.co.za Cartier 011 666 2800 Country Road woolworths.co.za Emporio Armani 011 268 0219 Eyecandy Optometrists 011 325 4434 Generation 011 325 6302 Kurt Geiger kurtgeiger.co.za Louis Vuitton 011 784 9854, 021 405 9700 Luminance 011 325 4765 Luxottica 021 486 6100 Montblanc 011 666 2804 Omega 011 911 1227 Paul Smith 011 447 1074, 021 418 0007 Picot and Moss picotandmoss.com Presidential presidential.co.za Retrosuperfuture retrosuperfuture.co.za River Island 011 685 7090, 021 555 3691 Rolex rolex.com Scar 021 422 5900 Simon and Mary simonandmary.com Spitz 086 010 9321 Ted Baker 011 450 1156 Thomas Pink 011 325 4098 Tiger of Sweden 011 684 2010 Tinsel tinsel.co.za Trenery woolworths.co.za Tumi 011 783 4636 Versace Collection 011 268 0266 Marble tiles courtesy of Italtile Bryanston italtile.co.za All other marble props courtesy of Country Road
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 29
OPINION
6. THE NOSE KNOWS
We all know what it’s like to be enjoying ourselves at a gathering when suddenly the air is filled with the pungent wafting trail of a fellow male doused in overly musky cologne. A gentleman is never that man. The way he smells is a subtle yet lingering introduction. How you want to smell is an important personal decision. Find a scent that works for you – you’ll know by other people’s reactions.
7. OWN A WELL-CUT SUIT
EVERYDAY
GENTLEMAN Simply having the male gene doesn’t make you a gentleman – neither does a six-digit bank balance. Rise to every occasion in true gentleman style with these 10 simple tips TEXT Neil Doveton PHOTOGRAPHY Byron Keulemans
1. DEFINE YOUR STYLE
Fortunately the definition of a gentleman has evolved – it’s no longer attached to the ilk of stuffy men in cravats smoking cigars at country clubs. Today, it’s all about attitude and how you carry yourself. In your journey to becoming a gentleman, choose a personal style that reflects your personality and lifestyle, not what you think you should wear.
2. ARM YOURSELF WITH A HANDKERCHIEF
Carrying a hankie prevents you from scrounging around for a tissue when you feel a sneeze coming on. It’s also useful for lessening unsightly sweaty shine from your brow. But the true charm lies in gallantly whipping it out from your breast pocket should there be spilt drinks – or sudden tears.
3. NEW SOCKS AND UNDERWEAR, ALWAYS
A gentleman is always prepared. You never know who’s going to see your underwear or socks (in
30 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
an emergency, perhaps?). Toenail-pierced holes in socks are never attractive. Bin underpants and socks as soon as they show signs of wear and tear and save yourself the potential embarrassment.
4. THE WATCH YOU WEAR
A man’s watch is the quickest way to portray an image of success and taste. When poorly executed, there is nothing quite as vulgar as the prominent exhibition of wealth on a man’s wrist. It is far better to have a fine selection of watches on your dresser than your year-end bonus on your wrist.
5. A CORE OF CRISP WHITE SHIRTS
A wardrobe full of neatly hanging crisp white cotton shirts is the backbone of a gentleman’s arsenal. Remove roughed-up, dated ones from your wardrobe and replace with new ones. No matter how expensive the suit you wear, if the collar of your shirt is grimy or, worse yet, worn through, your overall appearance will instantly be rendered slovenly. Stock up!
What good is the gentleman’s wardrobe without an impeccable suit? It transcends mere dressing, bringing otherwise hidden attributes (such as confidence and power) to the surface. That said, an ill-fitting suit can do you just as much disservice as that whiff of Roquefort and leek tartlet on your breath. If your suit is not bespoke, the very first thing you should do is head straight to your tailor. You do have a tailor, right? On speed dial? Of course you do. Should you wish to gain favour over your peers, wear a suit when you don’t have to. Works like a charm.
8. A PAIR OF BLACK OXFORD SHOES It’s a man’s obligation to own as many pairs of brogues as possible, without reaching vulgar levels. Arm yourself with at least one good pair of classic, black lace-up Oxford shoes, which can effortlessly take you from premieres to pubs. If looked after properly you’ll be wearing them for years to come. At all times they should be polished to a shine that would make your grandpa proud every single day.
9. A REGULAR READ OF THE NEWSPAPER
Stay well informed. Reading newspapers enables you to take part in many discussions, from politics to entertainment. There is no point or charm in being the most elegantly clad man in the room if all you can do with your mouth is stuff it with pastries. Stand yourself in good stead and enhance your knowledge. You’ll be surprised how many dinner-party invitations come your way.
10. IT COMES AT NO COST
Good manners will get you further in life than any inheritance. And better yet, manners can be learnt, so it’s never too late. They don’t cost you anything either. Holding the door open for people is a gentleman’s calling card. It’s a subtle yet powerful way to show your consideration for others. The ageold edict “ladies first” still has its virtue. And much merit lies in being present – constantly checking your phone in company is decidedly rude. Always be on time. Punctuality is an extremely attractive trait in anyone’s book. The list is endless…
PROMOTION
ALDO BENSADOUN, FOUNDER AND EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN OF THE ALDO GROUP
Mr B’s Gentlemen’s Boutique for Aldo
THE RISE OF
ALDO OVER 10 YEARS, FOOTWEAR BRAND ALDO HAS LAUNCHED 56 STORES IN SA. KEY TO ITS SUCCESS IS A SOLID FOUNDATION AND A GLOBAL FOOTPRINT TEXT
Yvonne Fontyn ABOVE Yerarwen shoes, R1 299, FROM LEFT Rae shoes, R2 199, Seweryn shoes, R2 199, Wallie shoes, R2 199
Founded in 1972 in Montreal, Canada, by Aldo Bensadoun, Aldo has always been soundly rooted in tradition while keeping abreast of the latest trends. “Successful companies build on their founding culture while looking ahead to the future,” says Bensadoun. As a family enterprise, the group has the advantage of a strong foundation combined with a global footprint. CEO Patrik Frisk adds that an emphasis on good relationships is part of the Aldo Group’s success formula: “Personal development is the key to a successful business. As a company evolves, its people must grow with it.” This philosophy ties in with that of Aldo global retail president David Bensadoun, who adds that diversity and high
Hold a shoe from Aldo’s Mr B’s collection and you are looking at decades of European mastery. Greatgrand-father Bensadoun was a French cobbler, producing and repairing handmade shoes. His son, “papi” Bensadoun learned his father’s trade and parlayed that skill into a network of shoe stores called Le Pied Mignon. With footwear in his blood, papi’s son, Aldo Bensadoun (Mr B) built on this heritage by bringing old-world expertise into the new world. Thus was born the brand Mr B’s Gentlemen’s Boutique for Aldo – a small-scale, decidedly simple operation focused on handmaking shoes with a commitment to quality and timeless style. Mr B’s uses only European leather sourced from tanneries in Tuscany and Veneto. No compromises are accepted in the shoemaking process, as it involves about 50 individual pieces, nearly all of which are handmade in Europe’s finest factories by craftspeople trained in Italy’s Brenta region. Drawing from four generations of Mr B’s,the collection is dedicated to tradition, style and detail by offering gentlemen expertly crafted storied staples. The SS15 Mr B’s collection is one worthy of any gentleman’s wardrobe, with products that feel masculine, timeless, rich and refined.
standards are what have enabled the group to open more than 1 900 stores worldwide. Based in Montreal, David says the city is “a fantastic place to be – multiple languages and cultures, a strong tradition rooted in business . . .” It is no wonder, then, that the Aldo concept has found a ready market in SA, with its diverse, aspirant population. Ensuring that every customer, no matter where they are, gets the same high standard of service that Aldo prides itself on is a challenge that Norman Jaskolka, president of Aldo Group International, takes in his stride everyday. His solution is simple but requires round-the-clock dedication: “Ensure a consistent brand identity and consumer experience across all channels and worldwide.” September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 31
BEAUTY
THE
SWEDISH WAY KNOWN FOR UNIQUE NOTES AND SLICK PACKAGING, SWEDISH FRAGRANCE HOUSE BYREDO HAS FAST BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH SUPERCOOL FOUNDER BEN GORHAM PHOTOGRAPHY Andreas
32 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Öhlund
“To me, a gender-specific smell is as absurd as gender-specific food. People are starting to understand that our notions of what gender-specific is come from marketing and commercial programming”
I wanted to be a perfumer 10 years ago when I met perfumer Pierre Wulff. We were at a dinner and he started talking about how scents were engaging people. That meeting opened up a part of my brain I’d never explored. Before that, I don’t think I’d ever been interested in scent. All of a sudden, this entire olfactory field became rich to me. I was able to express my emotions through perfume. Byredo comes from the old English, “redolence”, which might even be Shakespearean, meaning “sweet-smelling perfume, evocative of memories”. When developing a new fragrance I always start with a briefing: some pictures, some raw materials I imagine, poetry or a quote I like. It always starts in New York, because it’s very personal. The definition of a good fragrance is something that smells completely unique. I went back to India after meeting with Wulff for the first time and had this incredible experience, which is very much tied to my childhood memories. I went to Mumbai because that’s where my family is from, but I also travelled to Rajasthan, Udaipur and Jaipur and created Encens Chembur, a fragrance inspired by my mother and named after the suburb outside Mumbai where she was born. The scent is a combination of temple incense, amber ginger and bergamot. All my inspirations for creating a perfume are connected to personal memories like places from my childhood and specific moments of my life. I then work closely with the perfumer to translate my ideas into a fragrance. To me, a gender-specific smell is as absurd as gender-specific food. People are starting to understand that our notions of what genderspecific is come from marketing and commercial programming. My girlfriend will always be my biggest muse and critic. My influences really come from everywhere
– people I meet, places I go, things that I dream. Swedish society is relatively simple and that idea comes through in all our fragrances and designs. I think my design is influenced by all the different places I’ve lived. The best quality ingredients allow the fragrance to evolve beautifully on the skin over time. Sourcing the best raw materials makes our fragrances impeccable over time too. I like dry cedar, amber and sandalwood. Part of Byredo’s success can be attributed to the fact that we are meticulous about quality and I believe people are much more knowledgeable and demanding in terms of the products they buy. Since founding Byredo, I’ve learnt I have an ability to evoke emotions through the work I do and for that I’m very grateful. We recently launched a collaboration with [US luxury eyewear brand] Oliver Peoples around the concept of synaesthesia, which is the joint perception of senses. We launched a line of six frames, which was unique for Byredo. Now we’ve just launched a collection of handbags and small leather goods called Nécessaire de Voyage, available exclusively in the US at our new Byredo store on Wooster Street and at Barneys. This collection is the first step in an evolution that has always been in the brand’s vision. And there’s more to come. I like Palermo a lot. It’s a soft fragrance I could wear. It smells of grapefruits, bergamot and lime with lots of musky notes. Simple and elegant. I don’t have a favourite artist but I really admire the work of my friend, Carsten Höller. Two years ago we created a toothpaste that would control people’s dreams. We called it Insensatus and presented it at French art gallery Air de Paris. I also consider most perfumers true artists. I think New York is my favourite city. I’ve liked it from the time I lived there during high school and it still inspires me. The energy is always
PHOTOGRAPHY LUNGILE HLATSHWAYO
FAVOURITE 5
FELIPE MAZIBUKO,
1 2 3 4 5
STYLE ARCHITECT
We ask Felipe to pick his top five Johannesburg shopping destinations 1. Market on Main. From Maria McCloy’s African-print accessories and Quite’s vintage leather goods to antiques and art, it’s the perfect place to pick up stylish merchandise. 2. Ephymol. My haven for unique, eclectic and edgy runway samples by Ephraim Molingoana. From his retro mix of prints and textures to contemporary styles, there is something for every man here. Sophiatown with a modern twist is his signature. 3. Dope Store. I love the art, creativity and urban culture of this downtown store, where you’ll find hip magazines, clothes, homeware, art and CDs. Look out for their urban-wear launch at SA Fashion Week next month. 4. House of Ole. As soon as you enter this studio cum showroom, you’re immediately immersed in a gentleman’s closet with minimalist Bauhaus-esque antique furniture. The clothes take you on an African-dandy trip without trying too hard. 5. Downtown Joburg thrift stores. There are gems in stores that have no names, in most cases. Score anything from a vintage Burberry trench coat to a vintage Adidas leather biker’s jacket. Keep your eyes wide open for these treasure troves.
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 33
BEAUTY
Mike has long, thick, blond hair. If yours is similar, try a weekly mask to keep it feeling soft and in top condition.
TRY Moroccanoil Hair Smoothing Mask, R570, infused with argan butter and argan oil.
Mike wears: Jacket, R12 099 (sold as a suit), Tiger of Sweden; shirt, R5 350, Emporio Armani; bow tie, R1 140, cufflinks, R495, both Thomas Pink
MANE
ATTRACTION LONG, SHORT, CURLY OR COILED, WE SHOWCASE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HAIRSTYLES TO MAKE THE MOST OF WHAT YOU’VE GOT THIS SEASON PRODUCTION Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Aubrey Jonsson/One League GROOMING Renate Willems/Red Hot Ops PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Johan Botha MODELS Mike Rorke, Sakumzi Qumana/
Lampost & Richard Williamson/Lampost
34 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
BEAUTY
Sakumzi’s high-top German cut works well with his thick, natural hair. A dry toothbrush smooths out baby hairs for uniform texture.
TRY Mizani Coconut Hair Souffle, R182, for everyday use after washing.
Sakumzi wears: Jacket, R15 450 (sold as a suit), Emporio Armani; bow tie, R1 140, cufflinks, R495, both Thomas Pink; sunglasses, R2 500, Retrosuperfuture
“I have my hair cut at MosDefinite in Rosebank Mall and my barber’s name is Sbu Gebashe. I’ve been going there for about three years.”
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 35
BEAUTY
Bouncy and wavy best describes Richard’s hair. It’s also fine, so a weightless product to smooth and control flyaways is ideal.
TRY L’Oréal Studio Studio Line Remix Fibre Putty, R80
Richard wears: Tuxedo jacket, R16 995 (sold as a suit), Emporio Armani; shirt, R1 995, Paul Smith; bow tie, R1 650, Paul Smith; spectacles, R2 500, Retrosuperfuture
36 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
“I like Davines and use one of their oils before heat styling. It’s pricey but lasts a long time.”
BEAUTY / TOP SHELF
TOP ROW Dermalogica Body Hydrating Cream, R640 for 473ml A light, moisturising and nourishing cream that doesn’t leave you feeling slimy or looking shiny. Tweezerman Stainless Steel Moustache Scissors, R310 Tweezerman Ingrown Hair/ Splintertweeze, R284 Hotel Costes Body Wash, R590 for 300ml and R260 for 200ml Musk, rose and coriander top notes that mildly scent the body. Crème de la Mer, R1 900 for 30ml I’ve been using this moisturising cream religiously for 15 years every night. It’s heavy but repairs and keeps wrinkles at bay. Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, R850 An exfoliating powder that polishes and exfoliates skin, leaving it smoother and brighter and feeling tight and soothed.
Porcelain container, R1 457, Generation La Collection Privée Christian Dior Ambre Nuit, R3 305 for 250ml EDP The best manly, sensual, longlasting subtle scent ever created – a real aphrodisiac. BOTTOM ROW Aqua di Parma Razor and Shaving Brush, R10 700 for a set, Apsley House Bowl, R199, Country Road La Prairie Cellular Eye Cream Platinum Rare, R4 580 for 20ml It lifts, brightens and reduces puffiness around the eyes. (The Edit also likes La Prairie Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Cream, R3 875, as a facial moisturiser.) Ceramic earbud holder, R618, Generation
L’Oréal RevitaLift Anti-Wrinkle + Firming Day Cream, R180 Light and easily spreadable with anti-wrinkle and firming agents. Eucerin Aquaporin Active Moisturising Cream with SPF 25 + UVA protection, R190 A must for me in summer to protect from the sun and wind damage. Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, R435 The best instant face-tightening cream with immediate results. I use it for parties, events and shoots. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Nourishing Lip Balm SPF 20, R175 Keeps lips smooth, unchapped and glossy without too much shine. Mitchum Advanced Unscented Roll-On Deodorant, R36 The only one that really keeps you dry and fresh for 24 hours – a miracle. Ceramic apple, R320, Generation
FIRST PORT OF
CALL
South African fashion designer Craig Port shares what holds pride of place on his bathroom shelf PRODUCTION Tessa Passmore PHOTOGRAPHY Waldo Swiegers
September 2015
THE EDIT MAN 37
STYLE
IN CONVERSATON WITH
TYRONE ARENDSE While suits rule his work week, it is simplicity and subtlety that inform his sharp sense of style PHOTOGRAPHY Bianca Theron GROOMING Renate Willems/Red Hot Ops
48 38 THE EDIT MAN September 2015
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, R2 325 for 50ml EDP Speedmaster ’57 timepiece, R100 000, Omega
My personal style signifier? I guess I strive for simplicity and understatement. I don’t like clothes that are too loud or that overpower your personality. The first fashion-related decision I made this morning? I wear suits at least five days a week, so I suspect I may have been deliberating over a suit-and-tie combo. The one item every man should have in his wardrobe? A classic white Oxford shirt is pretty essential. It can be worn with almost anything. I have one from Corneliani that I’ve had for years. The last thing I bought? I have a slight watch fixation. I’ve just ordered myself an Omega Speedmaster ’57. My next obsession? An Omega Speedmaster ’57. I have to actively avoid browsing vintagewatch websites. My all-time favourite timepiece? Last December I bought myself a Zenith Elite, which I really like. In terms of watches I don’t own, I like a Cartier Tank. My favourite shopping destination? New York. The one thing you will never see me wearing? I try and avoid clothes that are ill-fitting or not ageappropriate . . . I’m not sure if I always succeed. Grooming staples that I can’t live without? Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille and a Shiseido Men moisturiser. I never leave home without? My watch, wallet and phone. My favourite drink? Gin (Hendrick’s or, more recently, Inverroche) and tonic. My favourite restaurant? Tortellino D’Oro or the Leopard in Joburg, Pot Luck Club in Cape Town and Hawksmoor Seven Dials in London. The last meal that truly impressed me? A friend recommended the Korean fried chicken at a place called Momofuku in Manhattan, New York, which was phenomenal. The one thing you will always find in my fridge? Supplements and champagne. The last book I bought? A retrospective of the photography of Inez and Vinoodh. The one indulgence I can’t live without? Decent Wi-Fi. The best gift I recently received? A bespoke shirt from Row-G. My favourite fashion websites and blogs? Ssense for shopping and my friend Maria McCloy’s Tumblr for everything else. The last picture I took on my phone? A picture of my car so I could remember where I parked it. I’m getting old.
a.
b.
SUM WE GUESS
a. For her R2 795 b. For him R3 195 c. For her R2 695 d. For him R2 795
c.
d.
Av ailable at selec t ed st ores o n l y, wh i l e sto cks l ast. E& OE. Pri ces co rrect at ti m e o f go i n g to p r i n t.