Sunday Times 'The Edit' Spring/Summer '16

THE EDIT

| SPRING/SUMMER ’16

MODERN LUXE

MINIMALISM

SPRING/SUMMER ’16

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN

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CONTENTS trend s

14. ED’S LETTER 16. TRENDS comfort zone 18. TRENDS motorcross 20. TRENDS school days 22. TRENDS stripes

24. TRENDS shine 26. MEET THE MODEL Anna Selezneva 28. BEAUTY a tailored scent 30. NEWS 32. MEET THE NOSE

fa shion 35. BOTANICA style comes closer to earth 46. THE LIFE AQUATIC sailor stripes and nautical hues 54. FEATURE cold shoulder bea uty 59. LIGHT REFLECTIVE spring into summer 66. COLOUR CODED bright and bold new collections 68. RETURN OF THE MASK masking is back j ew el s 71. SERPENTS AND SCENTS a journey to Rome with Bulgari v ie w p o i n t 74. CELEBRATING BLACK WOMEN it’s time they were recognised p ro file 77. A LIFE ILLUSTRATED Aida Muluneh 79. STOCKISTS THE EDIT

| SPRING/SUMMER ’16

MODERN LUXE

MINIMALISM

SPRING/SUMMER ’16

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN

E D I TOR I A L EDITOR Sharon Becker sharonb@timesmedia.co.za LIVING EDITOR Leana Schoeman schoemanl@timesmedia.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Lineveldt MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure JUNIOR DESIGNER Lydia Wessels DESIGNER Thembekile Vokwana FASHION AND BEAUTY WRITER Ntombenhle Shezi FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto BEAUTY EDITOR Tessa Passmore FASHION INTERN Ranaa Patel SUBEDITOR Theresa Mallinson FINAL EYE Karin Mosselson PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras DEPUTY GENERAL MANAGER PRINT AND DIGITAL Reardon Sanderson GENERAL MANAGER GROUP SALES Trevor Ormerod MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Yvonne Shaff shaffy@timesmedia.co.za 082 903 5641 ACCOUNT MANAGERS Faith Thomas faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998; Charlotte Nutman (coastal) nutmanc@timesmedia.co.za, 078 358 6154 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng, PUBLISHERS Times Media (Pty) Ltd 4 Biermann Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg. © Copyright Times Media (Pty) Ltd. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Times Media (Pty) Ltd. All advertisements, advertorials, and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

Top, R499; sleeveless jacket, R1 599; trousers, R1 199, all Witchery; earrings, R1 980; cuff, R6 400 , both Kirsten Goss THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLING SHARON BECKER

TREND

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Earrings, R4 900, Prada

We have taken some of the TOP TRENDS OFF THE RUNWAY and reinterpreted them for you. Motorcross makes its way onto our radar as wearable art, while we draw FUTURISTIC INSPIRATION from all things silver. We also show you how to wear the new deckchair stripes, and get the back-to-school look with COVETABLE ACCESSORIES

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

MILLA JOVOVICH WATCH THE FILM AT JIMMYCHOO.COM JOHANNESBURG | SANDTON CITY | +27 11 326 6658

AW16 Ell S

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A clean canvas of NEUTRAL CREAMS, MUTED PASTELS and SOFT tailoring makes for classic easy dressing. The perfect expression of simplicity this season comes from Hermès

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COMFORT ZONE

H E RME S

H E RMÈ S

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6 1. Watch, R464 000, Dior at Picot & Moss 2. Trousers, from R899, River Island 3. Belt, R3 680, Acne Studios at Maison Mara 4. Backpack, R599, Mat & May 5. Blazer, from R1 199, River Island 6. Sunglasses, R3099, Prada at Mat & May 7. Bag, R24 600, Jimmy Choo 8. Sandals, R1 495, Nina Roche at Spitz 9. Sneakers, R1 099, Witchery 10. Vest, R120, Old Khaki

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / CATWALKING AND SUPPLIED

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CH AL AYAN

MOTORCROSS

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7 1. Dress, price on request, Diesel 2. Dress, from R1 129, River Island 3. Jumpsuit, R1 499, Country Road 4. Heels, R899, Luella at Foschini 5. Top, R3 199, Diesel 6.Tricolor vinyl jacket, R32 500, Courrèges at Maison Mara 7. Sneakers, R17 000, Dolce & Gabbana 8. Sneakers, R1 299, Adidas 9. Backpack, R160, Mr Price 10. Pilot sunglasses, from R5 000, Chanel at Sunglass Hut

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / KRISTY SPAROW AND SUPPLIED

Take your look from sport to street with a combination of CLASHING COLOURS and VIBRANT BLOCK PRINTS. This is the season to rebel, where ANYTHING GOES and there are no rules

Alessandro Michele for Gucci led the way with neck-tie blouses and preppy pinafores to create his signature geek aesthetic. ADD A SATCHEL, and a pair of MARY JANES or LOAFERS, and you have the ultimate school uniform

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1. Cardigan, R899, Polo 2. Earrings, R16 600, Gucci 3. Top, R399, H&M 4. Pinafore, from R1 129, River Island 5. Skirt, R170, Mr Price 6. Bag, R1 295, Tosoni at Spitz 7. Skirt, from R549, River Island 8. Sunglasses, R6 140, Gucci at Safilo 9. Handbag, R33 900, Gucci 10. Shoes, R399, H&M

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / THOMAS CONCORDIA AND SUPPLIED

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This season we’re inspired by GRAPHIC STRIPES, both vertical and horizontal, in BRIGHT HUES. Worn on ’60s SILHOUETTES, these pieces are perfect for summery days à la Les Copain

STRIPES

L E S COPAI N

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7 1. Bag, R3 100, Karen Millen at Stuttafords 2. Bag, from R43 450, Prada 3. sunglasses, R4 225, Emilio Pucci at SDM Eyewear 4. Necklace, R11 800, Gucci 5. Skirt, R5 199, Diesel 6. Sandals, R1 499, Mimco 7. Dress, R4 000, Karen Millen 8. Top, R599, Spree 9. Platforms, R15 300, Gucci, 10. Watch, R2 299, Mimco

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES/ GETTY IMAGES/ ERNESTO RUSCIO AND SUPPLIED

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This season our hearts are set on ALL THINGS SILVER, from shimmering tones and MOLTEN METALS to LIGHT REFLECTING fabrics that give us that Paul & Joe Back to the Future feel

PAUL & J OE

SHINE

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1. Top, R349, H&M 2. Watch, R2 999, Fossil 3. Jacket, R330, Mr Price 4. Dress, from R673, Topshop Online 5. Bag, R569, Topshop 6. Cuff, R349, Witchery 7. Shoes, R1 400, Dune London 8. Skirt, R1 633, Topshop Online 9. Shoes R699, Sissy Boy 10. Glasses, R499, Witchery

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / KRISTY SPAROW AND SUPPLIED

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w w w. p o l o . c o . z a Sunday Times_The Edit_297mmx235mm.indd 1

2016/09/07 4:12 PM

advertorial

Anna on set for Witchery

Anna behind the scenes for Witchery

Me e t t he mod e l

ANNA SELEZNEVA f or Witc he r y The delicate beauty and elfin features of the Moscow-born model and face of WITCHERY’S Spring Summer 2016 campaign, have inspired covers, runway mileage, and coveted advertising campaigns for the likes of Balmain, Versace, and YSL Beauty

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An n a’s essent i al s

Born: Moscow Lives: Between Moscow and Paris.

Who inspires you? My mother. How were you discovered? I was standing in line at McDonald’s on Pushkin Square in Moscow. I was very much looking forward to a Big Mac and French fries when an agent approached me. Within a month I was on a plane to Paris. What do you love most about your lifestyle?

I love the freedom my job provides. When I am not travelling, I am able to spend time with my family. My mother is even able to travel with me, and if I feel like I need to recharge my batteries, I can go to our family dacha outside of Moscow and spend time with my grandmother and enjoy nature. When was the last time you felt truly free?

I love to ride my bike and ride horses. Last summer I was in Colorado and went biking in the mountains. I absolutely let go and flew down a professional mountain biking trail. I was scared out of my mind, but at the same time I felt an overwhelming sense of freedom. I get the same feeling when I go horseback riding through the forest.

How would you describe your personal style? Comfort

Playsuit R999 ,Earings R199, Sandals R999, all Witchery

is important for me, but at the same time, I like to have a hint of hippie. I think the most important thing is to know yourself and to dress true to who you are. I love nature, but I also love intelligent chic. Clothes are one of the many ways I connect to the world and express my emotions. This Witchery collection is great and I love how it captures both style and casualness at the same time. It reflects the way I see myself in a lot of ways. I loved the black jumpsuit. If I were an animal, I would definitely be a black panther. The jumpsuit seemed to connect somehow with my feline side.

What is the key to dressing for a demanding lifestyle?

Comfortable shoes. When your feet start to hurt, life sucks.

I always make sure that I have a pair of comfortable shoes with me. And when I fly, I always pack my bag the same day I start my travel. I never pack in advance. I think I am able to capture my mood and intentions best that way. What are your hopes for the future? I try to not to have expectations for the future. This business can be very unpredictable. I try to make the most of the opportunities that are presented to me, and enjoy life along the way!

Witchery Spring Summer 2016 collection now available at Witchery V&A standalone, select Woolworths stores, and witchery.co.za

WW27895/E

a tailored scent Fashion houses are experimenting with haute perfumery — RICH, BOLD scents that showcase their COUTURE SIDES

1 . G I V E N C H Y L ’ A T E L I E R O U D F L A M B O Y A N T , R2 925 for 100ml EDP, exclusive to Edgars. Notes include leather, oud, and labdanum

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2 . Y S L L E V E S T I A I R E D E S P A R F U M S I N T U X E D O , R3 400 for 125ml EDP. Violet leaf accord, black pepper oil, and ambergris accord 3 . E L I E S A A B E S S E N C E N O 8 S A N T A L , EDP available later in 2016. Sandalwood, cardamom, and vetiver 4 . D O LC E & G A B B A N A V E LV E T CO L L E C T I O N M I M O S A B LO O M , R5 080 for 150ml and R3505 for 50ml EDP. Mandarin, bergamot, and mimosa flower absolute 5. LA COLLECTION PRIVÉE CHRISTIAN DIOR FRAGRANCE LA COLLE N O I R E , R3 040 for 125ml and R4 150 for 250ml EDP. Rose de mai absolute, Sri Lankan sandalwood, and white musks 2

6. CAROLINA HERRERA CH CONFIDENTIAL IN BURNING ROSE, R3 550 for 100ml EDP, available from October 2016. Rose, cinnamon, and patchouli

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THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLING TESSA PASSMORE

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FA L L F O R D I O R Dior’s newest limited edition Fall Look for 2016 is called Skyline, inspired by Paris’s urban landscape and contrasting colours. Who can resist this almost chocolate nail colour called Dior Vernis Skyline 848, R425, or the 5 Couleurs Palette in Skyline, R995, where the eyeshadows reference the architecture of the fourth arrondissement.

BLUSH OF ROSES This fresh new look from Dolce & Gabbana is called Blush of Roses. Our favourite product? The most luxurious blusher, named The Creamy Blush, in Rosa Calizia, R900, which also comes in a slick, golden compact.

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Beauty News

YSL IS BACK When this glorious fashion house announced it was no longer going to stock makeup in South Africa, there was a collective sigh of sadness from fans of its rich, pigmented lipsticks.

Cue orders of duty-free Touche Éclat doing the rounds among the most travelled. Now YSL is back with a bang, and has opened a boutique in Sandton City. The golden counters offer our favourites plus more, such as the well known Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick, R550, which comes in 40 shades and in different finishes, including matte. The YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils R520, comes in six shades — black, brown, extreme blue, violet, burgundy, and

The latest and the greatest in THE BEAUTY WORLD, this season TEXT TESSA PASSMORE

deep night. The Touche Éclat, R600, has a great offering for South Africans, and is available in six shades, while the Le Teint Touche Éclat R760, comes in 12 shades. There are a whole host of new products, too.

ALL HAIL MCQUEEN Drumroll... The coveted Alexander McQueen EDP is now available in South Africa, from September 27.

It’s a seriously intoxicating and seductive scent — we say there’s nothing quite like it out there. Notes include jasmine sambac (which blooms only at night), tuberose, and ylang ylang. McQueen EDP, 30ml for R1 050, 50ml for R1 535, and 75ml for R1 940.

The range, which is available in September, also contains a body lotion, wash, and body cream.

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

FOLLOW US ON THE ELIE SAAB MAGAZINE / THELIGHTOFNOW.COM

Meet the nose With nearly 21 years as a perfumer, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN is the nose behind the ELIE SAAB PERFUME RANGE. The Edit asked him about working with a haute couture fashion leader

TEXT NTOMBENHLE SHEZI PHOTOGRAPHY LYDIA WESSELS

32 50ml R1 110

Rose Couture

The design of the bottle

“This is the latest addition to the Elie Saab fragrance range.

If you follow Saab’s collections every year, you’ll notice that he always incorporates flowers into his designs, whether embroidered on a haute couture dress, or intertwined into a piece of lace; so, naturally, all of the perfumes have a strong floral aesthetic. For Rose Couture, we focused mainly on orange blossom and rose, while keeping the woody undertone. The idea with Rose Couture was to focus on a more radiant femininity.”

“It was about going back to Saab’s philosophy around voluptuousness and, at the same time, something that is very elegant. When you look at his style on the runway or the red carpet, you are looking at something very radiant and luminous, and at the same time something very vertical — almost goddess-like. All of this is translated in the design of the bottle, which is also very minimalistic. Mr Saab works for women with curves, so he wanted something like a square box, yet rounded and with sharp curves.”

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

When is a fragrance complete?

“For me, a fragrance is never perfect or complete. When you work on something with commercial appeal, you have to stick to deadlines, because you work with the factory and suppliers. I believe that there is always a way to improve, even though sometimes you have the right modification and the right formula. I personally believe that it is always good to look for something better to improve on even if you are happy with your creation.”

How do you and Saab balance your creative ideas?

“It’s a dialogue: either he asks for something specific, or we propose things. Every now and then we meet Saab, and have sessions to discuss new products. During these moments, we share ideas and get some insight into what he might like. My job is to capture the brand, how he feels, and to interpret his vision through fragrance.

When it comes to working with Saab on the fragrance, he puts in as much validation and work on the fragrances as he would with any creation.”

AQUARACER CERAMIC DIAMONDS

Cara Delevingne challenges rules. Being free-minded is her motto. Like TAGÂ Heuer, she defies conventions and never cracks under pressure.

TAG Heuer Boutiques; Sandton City & V&A Waterfront. Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide. For further information please call 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za

Top, R499; sleeveless jacket, R1 399; trousers, R1 199; sandals, R999, all Witchery; cuff,R6 400; earrings, R1 980, both Kirsten Goss

FASHION

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This season we encourage you to clothe yourself in fantastical prints, CONTRASTING TEXTURES and RETRO SHAPES with a modern twist, while keeping it COOL AND CLASSIC in sailor-inspired apparel, as THE NAUTICAL TREND makes its way back onto our radar just in time for Spring/Summer 16

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Style comes closer to earth, with UBIQUITOUS PRINTS and DELICATE TEXTURES that give this season’s look a firm grounding PRODUCTION SHARON BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY ROSS GARRETT/LAMPOST LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN DE SA GARCES/@REPUBLICOFNOWHERE

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PAUL SMITH

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Dress, R10 950, Paul Smith; shoes, R5 695, P.A.R.O.S.H at Tik Lee; earrings, R1 540; cuff, R6 400, both Kirsten Goss

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

PRADA

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Dress, R33 450; socks, R1 150; shoes, R12 550; earrings, R4 900; bag, R49 400, all Prada

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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KENZO

Shirt, R7 400; dress, R26 000; shoes, R14 000, all Kenzo at Catheryne Gaeyla; earrings, R1 150, Erika Wessels at Tinsel; bracelets, R1 230 each, Liz Loubser at Tinsel

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

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GUCCI

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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Opposite page: Blazer, R27 200; blouse, R16 800; trousers, R13 600; bag, R33 900, all Gucci SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

DOLCE & GABBANA

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Dress, R27 000; earrings, R20 000, both Dolce & Gabbana

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

ETRO

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Bralette, R5 700; waistcoat, R36 900; skirt, R44 500, all Etro at 2A; Robert Clergerie sandals, R9 295, Tik Lee; ring, R7 650, Kirsten Goss

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

44 PRODUCTION SHARON BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY ROSS GARRETT / LAMPOST LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN DE SA GARCES / @REPUBLICOFNOWHERE PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT LESEDI MOTHOAGAE FASHION ASSISTANT KHOMOTSO MOLOTO MAKEUP ARTIST LIZ VAN DER MERWE / RED HOT OPS MODEL NYAMUOCH GIRWATH / 20 MODEL MANAGEMENT FASHION INTERNS RANAA PATEL, DANITA PILLEY, YAONE REFENTSE JUNIOR DESIGNER LYDIA WESSELS

VALENTINO

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

NYAMUOCH GIRWATH / 20 MODEL MANAGEMENT FASHION INTERNS RANAA PATEL, DANITA PILLEY, YAONE REFENTSE JUNIOR DESIGNER LYDIA WESSELS

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Opposite page: Dress, R51 800, Valentino at 2A

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

The life

SAILOR STRIPES and NAUTICAL HUES set the tone for a statement-making SUMMER UNIFORM… Are you on board?

PRODUCTION SHARON BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE TANCHEL / RED HOT OPS

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THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

47 Bomber, R1 900, Rich Mnisi x Maps Maponyane; shirt, R499, H&M; necklace, R4 595, Callaghan; necklace, R499, Ruby in the dust

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

48 Dress, R4 400, Karen Millen; trousers, R949, Topshop; jersey, R599, Forever New; necklace, R50, Mr Price; necklace, R499, Ruby in the dust

49 Trucker cap, R70; top, R160, both Mr Price; trousers, R1 199, Witchery; scarf, stylist’s own

50 Blazer, R1 249, Topshop; bodysuit, R499, Forever New; cap, R100, necklace, R50, both Mr Price; necklace, R499, Ruby in the dust; necklace, R4 595, Callaghan; handbag, R12 995, Issey Miyake at Callaghan

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

51 Shirt, price on request; trousers with belt, price on request, both Tommy Hilfiger; shoes, R7 055, Robert Clergerie at Tik Lee

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

52 Top, R599, shorts, R499, both Country Road; jersey, R6 995, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel at Callaghan; trucker cap, R70; necklace, R50, both Mr Price; sunglasses, R6 800, Lindburg at Eyecandy Optometrists; necklace, R4 595, Callaghan; necklace, R499, Ruby in the dust

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHER STEVE TANCHEL / RED HOT OPS PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT THEMBA MOKASE FASHION DIRECTOR SHARON BECKER FASHION ASSISTANT KHOMOTSO MOLOTO MAKEUP ARTIST ALEX BOTHA, USING DERMOLOGICA AND MAC / LAMPOST HAIR SAADIQUE RYKLIEF MODEL JOA / FANJAM

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Jacket, R3 495, Souvenir at Tik Lee; trousers, R799, Mango; backpack, R899, Aldo; sneakers, R7 990, Hogan at Preview,

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

’Tis the season to show some shoulder, and spring/summer’s NEW EROGENOUS ZONE has a subtle SEXINESS LIKE NO OTHER

SHOULDER TEXT HELEN JENNINGS

Sandy in Greece in drop-dead sassy sweetheart necklines.

What makes the 2016 incarnation of the trend feel invigorating and empowering is that, unlike in recent decades, when off-the-shoulder tops were most often about defining the waist and hugging the body, today we’re taking a softer, more demure approach.

The aim is to give the impression that garments are floating around the body, about to cascade to the floor. Not only is this alluring, it’s also ultimately flattering. The carnal connotations are ever present, but subliminal, leaving it up to the individual as to how risqué she chooses to be. The look reframes the body too. These seemingly precarious garments change the way you carry yourself, and demand that you walk and stand tall. No slouching, or you’ll be flashing more than you intended, but that’s very much part of their elegant charm.

“There’s an easy-going sensuality to the off-the-shoulder trend this season,” says Sabrina Henry, stylist and fashion curator at London’s Southbank Centre. “It’s more casual and less constrained and also nods to 1970s bohemia — that sense of freedom. We’re moving away from the puritanical minimalism of past seasons and embracing femininity.” To work the look in a relevant way, she recommends pairing an off-the-shoulder top with high-waisted palazzo pants or silky combat trousers, as seen at Balenciaga.

Indeed, the joy of this trend is that it can speak to you in many ways, whether you prefer more architectural pieces, such as Ellery’s waterfall-sleeved tops; bandaged and sporty styles, courtesy of Barbara Casasola; or as a way to update your little black dress, as exemplified

by Christopher Kane’s wave-hemmed looks. Channel burlesque dancer Gypsy Rose Lee in nearly naked, louche lace frippery from Givenchy. Join the Balmain army in nude, leather-laced ruffles. Embrace your uptown flamenco dancer in one of Roberto Cavalli’s ruffled chiffon power dresses.

Or keep it simple in a Caroline Constas billowy gingham poplin top. You can dress it up or down, layer roll necks or T-shirts underneath to keep flesh to

ISA AR FEN LOOKBOOK

TEMP ERL EY LON DON

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FASHION’S TURNOVER of trends is not only insatiable, but also, more often than not, unwearable for the average woman. Whether we’re talking thigh-grazing hemlines or obliques-revealing cut-outs, what looks good on the catwalk can appear indecent or frumpy on the sidewalk. So hallelujah for our current obsession with the off-the-shoulder look. It’s a trend that oozes subtle sexiness and makes the most of the part of the body every woman can feel good about. Who doesn’t love their collarbones, right? It’s no wonder the world is shoulder-flash crazy now.

It started in the resort 2016 collections and picked up pace at the spring/summer 2016 shows. Stella McCartney’s crisp white tops curved confidently to attention around the upper arms. Jonathan Anderson at Loewe offered up loose and wide knitwear, tipped at the shoulder. Clare Waight Keller at Chloé went wild with lace and chiffon tops, denim dresses, and carnival jumpers that all made the most of the décolletage. Temperley London paired spaghetti straps with cropped ruffles that floated below the shoulder and above the waistline. Peter Pilotto tiered Chantilly lace, macramé, and striped cotton into an array of shoulder-exposing, body-defining dresses. And at Proenza Schouler, monochrome jacquard and crêpe creations were either cut away in circles around the shoulders, or held up by ribbons. Backstage, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough said of their inspiration: “We were looking at bananas — things that peel away from the body.”

The off-the-shoulder look has been a favourite for longer than you might think. Throughout the 19th century, it was the fashion to wear wide-necked evening gowns that drew attention to one’s bust. The silhouette sloped the shoulders and nipped the waist with a bodice, while bell-shaped skirts created volume. A century later, ’50s Hollywood style was characterised by the likes of Natalie Wood, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, and Lucille Ball, who all favoured glamorous, clavicle-braving outfits. For Brigitte Bardot it was such a signature that her name now signifies the sailor-style off-the-shoulder top flooding high street stores such as H&M and Zara.

It’s remained a perennial fashion favourite ever since, from Marilyn Monroe as hourglass seductress Rose in film noir thriller Niagara, to Jennifer Beals working up a sweat in flimsy, wide-necked jerseys as welder-turned-dancer Alex in Flashdance, via Olivia Newton John’s good girl

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I SA ARFE N LOOK BOOK IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / ANTONIA DE MORAES BARROS FILHO / DANIEL SIMS AND ISA ARFEN

a minimum, or appear to be in a perpetual state of undress. Anything goes.

Thula Sindi’s bestseller this season, a midnight blooms cocktail dress, frames the female form in all the right places. “It is simply a knockout of a dress,” the Johannesburg-based designer says. His hyperfeminine off-the-shoulder pieces have also found popularity, thanks to social media. “Instagram, baby! There’s nothing like looking sultry as your dress or top seems to be held up by a prayer.” It’s true this trend was born for social media. Adopt a winning smie, glance over one’s conveniently uncovered shoulder in a pseudo-coy pose, and then snap, post, and like.

For Serafina Sama of Isa Arfen, off the shoulder is part of her brand’s DNA. The Italian-born, London-based designer studied at Central Saint Martins and worked for Chloé, Louis Vuitton, Acne, and Charlotte Olympia before establishing Isa Arfen (an anagram of her name) in 2011. Since then she’s been hailed for her retro-inspired, playful shapes and decadent fabrications.

“I have included off-the-shoulder styles since my very first season,” Sama says. “What I find appealing is the sense of undone femininity. Baring a shoulder allows you to feel sexy, but still sophisticated and relaxed. It is more suggestive than revealing.” For her, trends are immaterial because true style stays. “The search for the next erogenous zone has been moving so fast in the past couple of years that there was nothing left to bare. So I think it’s refreshing to start covering up again — except for an exposed shoulder.”

Her shoulder-baring icons and influences are drawn from all eras and continents and are expressed in her unique and quirky womenswear.

“I am very inspired by Seydou Keita’s work. Many of the gorgeous women featured in his portraits taken in Mali during the 1950s and early 1960s wore their dresses pulled off one or both shoulders,” she enthuses of this legendary photographer’s archive. “Then there is Yves Saint Laurent’s (YSL’s) haute peasant look from the late 1960s and early 1970s — the epitome of decadence, glamour, and bare shoulders.” The image of YSL muse Loulou de la Falaise in an opulent, blood red, off-the-shoulder dress (complete with feathered wings) at her infamous 1978 Angels and Demons

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

costume ball at Le Palace in Paris is a constant on Sama’s moodboard.

For the past three seasons, Sama has emphasised the trend more than ever. Resort 2016 imagined fabulous ladies going on holiday to the Caribbean, where they have their shoulders sun-kissed, while wearing colour-blocked frocks and tops heaped with drop-puff sleeves and va-va-voom peplums. “I wanted to offer a feel-good collection of exaggerated pieces that would brighten up a woman’s day.”

For spring/summer 2016 shoulders come out again, but this time with asymmetrical, twisted necklines, and ruffles galore in shades of black, white, red, khaki, and fuchsia. The look is easy and undone, especially when paired with her take on Capri pants.

“I personally like to wear these pieces with a pair of vintage Levi’s jeans and Converse, or highwaist, cropped shantung trousers and heels for evening,” Sama muses. “But it’s always exciting to see how other women style them with pieces from their own wardrobe. I loved seeing Alexa Chung in our off-the-shoulder monochrome tops, and Poppy Delevingne looked fantastic in the minidress version.”

With such stellar celebrity endorsement of the off-the-shoulder look going on right now (everyone from Kerry Washington to the Kardashians have been at it), it seems this trend isn’t going to be shrugged off any time soon.

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Lipidol is a range of six new oils for daily skincare. Featured product: Lipidol Cleansing Face Oil 125ml. Removes dirt and make-up without stripping the skin’s natural oily layer. Available at selected Clicks stores at the recommended retail price of R79.95. lipidol.com

BEAUTY

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For SPRING/SUMMER, beauty is pared down and simplified in our LIGHT-REFLECTIVE editorial.

Skin masks are making a comeback, and MAKEUP GETS COLOURFUL in our colour-coded guide. Fragrances are inspired by DESIGN AND COUTURE; and, of course, we share the newest in this season’s beauty launches

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

“For a point of difference

to a conventional parting, sweep hair completely side to side for a unique shape” HAIRSTYLIST PETER BECKETT

Shirt, Prada

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l i g h t reflective Spring into summer with LUMINOUS SKIN, balmy lips, IRIDESCENT EYELIDS, and hair a little WISPY PRODUCTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY ELFORD/DELAFORÊT

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

“Thick, cakey foundations aren’t synonymous with fresh, dewy skin.

Estée Lauder Double Wear Makeup to Go, R550, is light in texture and comes in a handy single-dose, spill-proof compact”

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BEAUTY EDITOR, THE EDIT, TESSA PASSMORE

Shirt, R999, Witchery; earrings, By Nye; bracelet, Petite Grand

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

“For applying lipstick, swipe the

colour on the back of your hand, and then use a finger to dab the colour onto your lips to build up the colour.

Only then use the lipstick from the tube to touch up”

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DOLCE & GABBANA INTERNATIONAL MAKEUP ARTIST MAURIZIO CALABRÒ

Blazer, R1 899, Witchery; earrings, By Nye

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

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“A low, fallen-out ponytail is a contemporary update on a slicked-back style” HAIRSTYLIST PETER BECKETT

Shirt, Oskar The Label; shorts, Lilya; earrings, By Nye

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

“Don’t ignore your décolleté, and also

sweep some bronzer on collarbones, and where your jaw meets your neck, for some warmth and to unify skin tone. Clarins Limited Edition Bronzing Powder & Blush, R550, is all you’ll need this summer” BEAUTY EDITOR, THE EDIT, TESSA PASSMORE

PRODUCTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY ELFORD/DELAFORÊT STYLIST NICKI COLBRAN@UNION MANAGEMENT MAKEUP SAMANTHA PATRIKOPOULOS @ WORK AGENCY HAIR PETER BECKETT @ UNION MANAGEMENT MODEL JADE WOODS AT IMG

Dress, R1 299, Witchery; earrings, By Nye; ring, Henson at Poepke; bracelet, Petite Grand

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SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

PINK

1. Dior Show Mono Coral Reflection, R555 2. Dolce & Gabbana Classic Cream Lipstick in Bon Bon, R540 3. Dolce & Gabbana Dolce Matte Lipstick in Dolce Rosa, R710 4. YSL Kiss & Blush in N1, R590 5. YSL Couture Palette in 9, R890 6. Dolce & Gabbana Rosa Nail Lacquer in Bon Bon, R425 7. Maybelline Color Sensational Vivid Matte Lipstick in Electric Pink, R110 8. Real Techniques Brush Flat Contour, R450 9. Clarins Fix Make-Up, R335 10. Dior Show Mono in Focus, R555

RED

1. Rouge Dior Red Smile Lipstick in Le Rouge, R595 2. Essie Nail Polish in Shall we Chalet?, R125 3. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Rouge Feu, R610 4. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Rouge Charnel, R610 5. Chanel Le Vernis Longue Tenue in Rouge Puissant, R450 6. Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Candeur et Experience, R920 7. Bobbi Brown Luxe Lip Color in Parisian Red (Paris), R450 8. Dolce & Gabbana Dolce Matte Lipstick in Dolce Blood, R625 9. Catrice Matt Lip Artist in Fashion REDitorial, R90

66 Looking for some SEASONAL COLOUR our newest collections of BRIGHT AND

COLOUR CODED

inspiration? Take your pick from BOLD true-hued products

TEXT TESSA PASSMORE

GREEN

1. Catrice Prêt-à-Lumière Longlasting Eyeshadow in Petite Green-ouille, R70 2. DiorShow Mono in Vision, R555 3. Dolce & Gabbana Smooth Eye Colour Duo in Laguna, R670 4. Dolce & Gabbana Crayon Intense in Emerald, R380 5. Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Mono in Sage, R485 6. Dior Fix It Colour in Green, R580 7. Smashbox Colour Correcting Stick in Get Less Red, R390 8. Dolce & Gabbana Nail Lacquer Intense in Wild Green, R425

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

CORAL

1. Lancôme Juicy Shaker 142 in Freedom of Peach, R270 2. Maybelline Master Blush in Coral Fever, R100 3. Dolce & Gabbana Passion Duo Gloss Fusion Lipstick in Sensation, R625 4. YSL La Laque Couture in Orange Afrique, R390 5. YSL La Laque Couture in Orange Fusion, R390 6. Clarins Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil, R280, launching on October 10 7. Smashbox Colour Correcting Stick in Look Less Tired Dark, R390 8. YSL Rouge Pur Couture in 56, R550

METALLIC

1. Clarins Waterproof Cream Eyeshadow in Golden Peach, R295 2. Clarins Waterproof Cream Eyeshadow in Golden Sand, R295 3. Real Techniques Arched Powder Brush, R450 4. Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Mono in Bronze, R485 5. DiorShow Mono in Infinity, R555 6. Urban Decay Good Karma Optical Blurring Brush, R400 7. Benefit High Brow Glow, R305

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BLUE

1. DiorShow Mono in Show, R555 2. Dolce & Gabbana The Nail Lacquer in Anise, R375 3. YSL Couture Palette in 10 Lumières Majorelle, R890 4. Catrice Prêt-à-Lumière Longlasting Eyeshadow in Bold Blue, R70 5. Catrice Noir Lacquer in Blue, R50 6. DiorShow Mono in Stand Out, R555 7. Urban Decay Vice Comfort Matte Lipstick in Heroine, R230

BLACK & WHITE

1. Urban Decay Vice Comfort Matte Lipstick in Perversion, R230 2. YSL Top Secrets Flash Radiance Skincare Brush, R800 3. Smashbox Photo Op Single Eyeshadow in Blackout , R250 4. L’Oréal Super Liner Black ‘n’ Sculpt, R150 5. Dolce & Gabbana Powder Brush, R960 6. Bobbi Brown Corrector & Concealer, R455 each 7.

DiorShow Maximizer 3D Primer, R560 8. Dolce & Gabbana The Nail Lacquer in Innocent, R375 9. Dolce & Gabbana Sheer Radiance Makeup Base, R680 10. Maybelline Brow Drama Sculpting Mascara, R100 SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

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return of the mask MASKING is BACK — in a BIG WAY TEXT TESSA PASSMORE

THANKS TO THE KOREANS (from K-pop to K-beauty), skincare enthusiasts the world over are embracing the masking trend. Gone are the days when a facial mask was applied like a gel, dried to resemble wood glue, and peeled off in one piece — taking those tiny facial hairs with it (ouch). Back in the day, results were less oh-so-glowy, and more taut and tight, with breakouts popping up all over the place. Now, masks are designed to treat all kinds of skin woes, and textures are innovative and fresh — think watery jelly and sheet masks.

Sonette Donker, owner of Skin iD and qualified skincare therapist, says: “A good mask must address your skin concern, whether it’s dehydration, oiliness, breakouts, lines and wrinkles, or sensitivity.” These days the concept of using one mask on your whole face is unrealistic: “multimasking” has taken over. Most of us have combination skin, so target forehead oiliness with a purifying mask and use a hydrating mask on other areas, such as the jaw, for maximum benefits.

Masks can change skin immediately, making them ideal to use just before a big event or even just for a boost in skin-confidence. Donker says: “They’re formulated to penetrate only the top layers of the skin, whereas a serum is designed to penetrate the deeper layers.”

The next step is to find out what your skin needs. How do you decide on your concern? Donker suggests that for dehydration, consider a gel mask containing hyaluronic acid

and vitamin B3 to restore hydration. Oiliness? A clay mask containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and oil-absorbing clays (bentonite and kaolin clays). This blend of ingredients will absorb the excess oil, leaving the skin matt, and it will sort out the congestion (blackheads and whiteheads). For breakouts use a mask either in a clay or gel base, containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, triclosan, charcoal, and azeloglycine. Most formulations will contain three to four of these ingredients, and will help to dry out the pimples, as well as kill bacteria and reduce inflammation. What about lines and wrinkles? Normally masks that are best for a boost here are formulated with a gel or cream base, and include vitamins A, C, and E, plus brown or red algae and peptides. The main purpose of this mask is to superficially firm the skin and change its texture. Lastly, sensitivity is best addressed with a gel- or cream-based mask with niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, aloe vera, vitamin K, glycoproteins, ceramides, and lactobionic acid.

When it comes to making the most of masking, take note of some of these tips: a clay mask will dry out the eye area, so best to avoid it, but a light cream or gel texture is good for the eyes, and sometimes, lips too. Also, some masks can actually be left on overnight — especially the hydrating ones — giving beauty sleep new meaning. So settle in, get your mask(s) on and look forward to brighter, happier skin — one treatment at a time.

“Using one

mask on your whole face is unrealistic: ‘multimasking’ has taken over”

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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2

1. FOR A FIRMING ACTION...

Clarins Extra Firming Mask, R705 for 75ml. This is the newest kid on the block and includes organic green banana and lemon thyme to improve skin elasticity. Plus, palmitoyl glycine (a lipoamino acid) helps compensate for the effects of skin stretching, and has proven biological action to relax tension lines and smooth features. Mimosa and sunflower waxes add a moisturising comfort factor.

2. FOR A DEEP CLEANSE...

3

Dermalogica Charcoal Rescue Mask, R790, This mask is amazing. It uses special charcoal from the Japanese ubame oak, which has been used for years to purify water, deodorise air, and whiten teeth. It can absorb more than 1 000 times its weight in positively charged compounds.

The formula includes sulphur, an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredient, as well as volcanic ash and alpha hydroxy acids, which act as exfoliators. Niacinamide and wild mint calm redness and refine pores.

3. IF YOU’RE IN NEED OF A DETOX… 4

Estée Lauder New Nightwear Plus 3-Minute Detox Mask, R595 for 75ml. This mask includes an antioxidant complex.

4 . F O R S K I N T H A T ’ S S U P E R T H I R S T Y…

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Verso Deep Hydration Mask, R1 200 for pack of four. This product comprises two gel-textured “sheet” masks — one that fits the lower part of your face, and the other the upper section. It’s cooling and tingles when it hits the skin — especially if you’re very dehydrated.

5 . F O R A CO O L I N G E F F E C T…

Try t hese 6

Nuxuriance Ultra Mask, R595 for 50ml. The mask uses Bi-Florales cells Safran and bougainvillea, comprises 88% natural ingredients, and includes hyaluronic acid. It’s ideal for daytime firming action: simply apply, and after 10 minutes remove with a cotton pad. You can use the metal roller to cool skin, too, even without product.

PHOTOGRAPHY BENOÎT PEVERELLI CHANEL CRUISE SHOW 2016/17 BEAUTY BACKSTAGE AND SUPPLIED

6 . F O R O I LY S K I N …

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Garnier Pure Active 3 in 1, R100. This is a wash, scrub, and mask in one. Apply a thin layer and leave the ingredients to soak in, then gently add a bit of water and massage into skin. The pumice granules gently buff, and white clay absorbs oil to make pores look smaller and mattify skin.

7. FOR SOME CLEARING AND CALMING...

Skinceuticals Clarifying Clay Masque, R1 250. This mask includes alpha hydroxy acids to exfoliate, and kaolin and bentonite clay to gently absorb impurities and excess oil. Chamomile and aloe make sure skin stays calm and happy.

8 . F O R A S E R I O U S J E L LY T R E AT. . .

Dior Jelly Sleeping Mask, R1 340. This gel mask is light and airy in texture, which dehydrated skin loves. It also comes in cute-as-a-button, single-dose One Shot masks — for on-the-go hydration 8

9. A MASK FOR DRYNESS...

Bobbi Brown Skin Nourish, R800. This mask is intensely moisturising, and includes an aquatic hydrating herb called coral grass. Murumuru butter is super moisturising and helps restore the skin’s natural barrier.

Leave for five minutes and wipe the excess off with a tissue.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

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JEWELS

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Dream Gioco e Vanità High Jewellery necklace, price on request, Bulgari

The Edit takes our readers on a journey to Rome, the home of BULGARI, to DISCOVER THE PAST AND PRESENT of the design house’s enchanting legacy

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

SERPENTS

SCENTS

AND

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A

BULGARI, one of the WORLD’S LEADING JEWELLERS, recently opened a boutique in Sandton City. The brand’s 2016 jewellery collection, as well as its NEWEST FRAGRANCE, were all inspired by the sensual and ENCHANTING SERPENT

VISIT TO THE SPARKLING SALON that is the Bulgari museum above its flagship Via Condotti store in Rome is akin to discovering the source of all glamour.

From the iconic Elizabeth Taylor images on the walls, to the handwritten journal that has recorded every piece of jewellery produced by Bulgari since it was founded in 1884, all the treasures on display in the space, referred to as the Bulgari Domus, tell the story of how one of the world’s most famous jewellers is inexorably linked to the Italian capital where it all began.

It was during Taylor’s stay in Rome during the filming of Cleopatra that the star discovered the seductive treasures at Bulgari, and the jeweller’s name immediately became synonymous with fame, glamour, and beautiful women.

A photograph of Taylor, taken during the filming of Cleopatra in Rome in 1962, with a Bulgari Serpenti watch snaking up her arm, cemented another important part of the jeweller’s design DNA — that of the highly symbolic snake or serpent.

In many cultures, the snake represents fertility, strength, and protection. In Bulgari’s

TEXT JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

case, the serpent represents all that is strong, feminine, and seductive, and has been a design theme the jewellery designer has revisited many times.

In 2016, Bulgari has re-imagined the snake emblem for the 21st century, this time in a much

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

more graphic fashion. This year’s iconic Serpenti collection features a modern interpretation of the snake scale: a stylised hexagonal shape that is now a distinctive pattern, visible on several of the luxury house’s designs.

The most coveted items of the collection are undoubtedly the pendants of serpent heads adorned with precious jewels, many of them in popular rose gold, with hypnotic, pear-shaped eyes. In some pieces, hexagonal tiles of this year’s most trend-forward stone — malachite — become tiny and shiny luminous snake scales.

The Serpenti watches remain one of the most famous feminine timepieces, from the dazzling, high-jewellery Serpenti Incantati watches, to the iconic, flexible Serpenti Tubogas.

The bendy Tubogas was first created in the 1970s, and is one of the world’s most desirable bracelet watches.

The Bulgari serpent knows no limits, with the head of the lucky snake also adorning the newest collection of Bulgari handbags and those scales a prominent feature on the bottle of the rose-scented fragrance, Bulgari Rose Goldea.

Selected pieces from the Serpenti Collection are available from the Bulgari Boutique in Sandton City.

Picot and Moss 011 669 0500

R

OSE GOLDEA, THE NEW FRAGRANCE FROM BULGARI, is inspired by the 2016 Serpenti rose gold jewellery collection, recently unveiled by Rome’s leading luxury jewelers.

Rose Goldea is a sister to the goddess-inspired Goldea fragrance, with its signature golden sun stopper, and represents “the essence of the jeweller”, says Valeria Manini, managing director of Bulgari fragrances.

She says the Goldea fragrance, designed by master parfumer Alberto Morillas, will be a story with many chapters: “The story started with Goldea yellow — Bulgari’s musk expressed in a contemporary fashion. Now comes Rose Goldea, heavily inspired by the resurgence in popularity of the metal rose gold that is currently loved by women around the world.”

This had to be a contemporary expression of rose as a fragrance, says Manini, with none of the old associations of this floral scent. The result is a thoroughly modern rose fragrance, featuring only a fraction of rose essence.

The feminine and seductive Rose Goldea comes in a rose-coloured bottle, with the signature serpenti scales around the neck. Long inspired by the sensuality of Cleopatra, Bulgari has combined the Egyptian queen’s famous weapons of seduction — both jewellery and fragrance — in designing this new fragrance and its bottle.

The serpent, representing eternity and life, was Cleopatra’s chosen talisman. This symbol of feminine mastery encircling the neck of Rose Goldea expresses all the enchanting powers of this new fragrance.

Rose Goldea

The o lfa c to r y p y r a m id

by Alberto Morillas, m a s te r p e r fu m e r

He a r t o f p o m e g r a n a te , PRECIOUS EXTRACT OF

rose

petals, nectar of mu s k s Fr e sh, sparkling, c olour f ul Da ma sc e na r o s e a b s o lu te , g r a ndiflo r u m ja s m in e a b s o lu te

Majestic, MYTHIC, m ilk y

Sensual musks, sandalwood milk, essence of white incense Spell-binding, caressing, balsamic

Bulga ri’s

R os e G olde a fragrance will be available at leading

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

r e ta ile r s fr o m

September 6

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V ie wp oint

You might not find much about them in the HISTORY BOOKS, but SOUTH AFRICA has NO LACK OF BLACK WOMEN who have FOUGHT PROUDLY and BRAVELY in STANDING UP to oppression. It’s time they were RECOGNISED TEXT MATHAHLE STOFILE

celebrating black women

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M

ANY OF US RESISTED THE URGE to crush on actor Jesse Williams when he first made an appearance on the popular US television series Grey’s Anatomy. We refused to gush over his fine looks and near perfect personality on the show. The guy was too obvious. And besides, he couldn’t possibly be that good looking, smart, and kind, let alone “woke”, at the same time.

That all ended the night of the 2016 Black Entertainment Television awards when the man pretty much opened his acceptance speech (for Humanitarian Award), with a shout-out to black women saying: “To the black women in particular who have dedicated a lifetime to nurturing everyone first before themselves. We can and will do better for you.”

Black women all over the world have found themselves in positions where they are nurturing others before themselves. These women are usually at the forefront of social change, speaking up against domestic violence, sexual violence, racism, oppression of minority groups, and many other social injustices. For this to happen, they usually have to stand up against oppressive systems that, by design, put them at the very bottom of the barrel. For these women, the cards against them are stacked higher than most, for the two most oppressive systems of our time — patriarchy and white supremacy — specifically target the very two things that make up being a black woman.

It is a huge disservice, but no great surprise, that history books have no mention of such women. In school, many of us learnt about white supremacy, disguised as our only history, while so many other significant stories went untold. How I wish future history books would include the stories of many African women who went against the grain and dared to go beyond where they were told they could.

There is something to be said for those who use their platforms to speak up when not many will. This is especially true when such actions may put their own well-being at risk.

To all the South African women who will or will not make it into those future history books — Charlotte Maxeke, Cecilia Makiwane, Lilian Ngoyi, Adelaide Tambo, Nomzamo Winnie Madikizela-Mandela, Mary Malahlela–Xakana, Ida Mtwana, Albertina Sisulu, Florence Matomela, Dorothy Nymbe, Busi Mhlongo, Phyllis Ntantala-Jordan, Miriam Makeba, Brenda Fassie, Lebo Mathosa, and many more of our grandmothers, mothers, and sisters, living or dead — we salute you.

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PHYLLIS NTANTALA-JORDAN

(1920-2016) academic, feminist, author, activist What to know: Phyllis Ntantala-Jordan has not only been described as “a woman of extraordinary intellect”, but also a free-thinker, feminist, academic, activist, and author.

She was also a wife and mother of four. Ntantala-Jordan wrote about the difficulties, traumas, and poor living conditions that black women faced as their families were broken apart. When men and husbands were forced to find work in cities, on farms, and on mines, they could not take their families with them, because of the migrant labour system.

Ntantala-Jordan gave voice to her views about this and many other issues in essays and articles she wrote, as well as public lectures she gave back in the ’50s and beyond.

What to admire: Ntantala-Jordan was a political activist who interrogated the systematic oppression of black people, with a strong focus on women. She was a black feminist at a time when women’s rights were not at the forefront of the Struggle. Black people were fighting for freedom and equality, but not many were sensitive to the unique struggles of the black woman. Ntantala-Jordan put a spotlight on these through her work. “Ntantala describes with sensitivity and power the deliberate impoverishment and calculated disintegration of African families,” wrote Sisi Maqagi of Ntantala-Jordan’s 1958 essay, The Widows of the Reserves. Other notable essays Ntantala-Jordan wrote include The Black Woman under Apartheid, The Abyss of Bantu Education, Let’s Hear Them Speak, and The Cruelty of Racism.

MIRIAM MAKEBA

(1932-2008) singer and civil rights activist What to know: After having her passport revoked by South African apartheid authorities in 1960, Miriam Makeba unwittingly became an international and political singer. She told The Guardian: “I am not a political singer. I don’t know what the word means. People think I consciously decided to tell the world what was happening in SA. No! I was singing about my life, and in SA we always sang about what was happening to us — especially the things that hurt us.” She sang about love, spirituality, humanity, unity and, struggle.

What to admire: Being exiled from her home country did not stop Makeba from telling the world about the oppression black people faced in South Africa. She inspired hope and a powerful sense of unity in black people, during times that sometimes seemed hopeless.

She became an international emblem of black suffering under apartheid. Makeba was banned by the South African Broadcasting Corporation, but that still didn’t intimidate her or stop her from speaking out against the beast that was the apartheid government.

Makeba won a Grammy in 1965 for An Evening with Belafonte/Makeba, a collaboration with the American singer and activist Harry Belafonte.

B R E N DA FA S S I E

(1964-2004) singer and L E B O M A T H O S A (1977-2006) singer What to know: Both Fassie and Mathosa were supremely comfortable in their own skin.

They had so much in common, not least their refusal to conform to what society dictated.

In fact, they were everything little black girls were taught not to be, much to the panic of black parents across the country: smokers of cigarettes, owners of their own sexuality, loud talkers, back chatters, and wild balls of energy — publically! They were both also incredible vocalists and fantastic entertainers. Their talent outshone every other quality they possessed.

What to admire: There are many reasons to admire MaBrrr, of course. At a time when police in the US are killing black men and women for no reason other than because they fear (or hate) them, it is difficult not to be reminded of Fassie’s 1989 song, Good Black Woman, where she sings about the apartheid government’s police brutality and its dehumanising attitude towards black citizens, specifically black women. It was a volatile time in South Africa, but this didn’t stop Fassie from making her feelings well known to the apartheid government when she released Black President, an ode to Nelson Mandela.

Fassie and Mathosa should be admired because they both threw the middle finger at any stigma many tried to attach to them as women. They were slut-shamed; called ugly, because they didn’t look a certain way; and rude, because they spoke their minds.

Mathosa and Thembi Seete (her band member from Boom Shaka days) were twerking before anyone gave it a name, and became style icons with their bum-length, thicker-thanthick box-braids and booty-shorts paired with crop tops. Later Mathosa would be known for her ever-changing hair colour, worn in any which way she pleased.

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annefontaine.com

AVAILABLE AT CLOTH & LABEL HYDE PARK CORNER | MORNINGSIDE SHOPPING CENTRE

a life illustrated AIDA MULUNEH is an ETHIOPIAN ARTIST and photographer. Her work is about CAPTURING MOMENTS in HISTORY and creating ART THAT QUESTIONS THE PLIGHT OF HUMANITY. She was featured at the recent FNB Joburg Art Fair TEXT NTOMBENHLE SHEZI ILLUSTRATIONS L’MRI ERASMUS

Do you remember the moment you fell in love with photography? The moment I made my first print in my high-school darkroom.

What do you love and appreciate about Addis Ababa? It is a vibrant city in which you see the past, present, and future in one space.

One of the books that has had a lasting impact on you? The Autobiography of Malcolm X, as told

by Alex Haley.

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Most treasured item? A vest my mother sent me when I was around the age of 10 in boarding school in Cyprus.

Where are some of your favourite spaces? I love the ocean and the desert.

What is your secret talent? I can crochet a scarf, but don’t ask me to make anything else.

Your favourite item in your closet? My hat.

What is your secret vice? Watching garbage programmes on television.

What is your favourite film and why? The Jackal of Nahueltoro by Miguel Littín. It really makes you question the world we live in.

SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

pandora.net

STYLE THE SEASON WITH NEW PANDORA ROSE The PANDORA Rose collection combines a unique blend of metals, blushing with a beautiful rose colour.

Explore the new Autumn collection, be inspired and share #TheLookOfYou PANDORA Rose charms from R799 and bracelets from R1399.

Exclusive to PANDORA Concept Stores and the Official Online store.

Shop online at pandorshop.co.za

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2A 011 325 454 5 • A d i d as adidas . c o . z a • A ld o 011 884 4141 • A m er ic a n Sw is s 011 685 1434 • B en S he r man 011 784 1019 • Blanc blanc.ws • Cath e r yn e Gaeyla c g fas hio n. c o . z a • C a l l a gh a n 011 325 4053 • C J R c j r. c o . z a • C o unt r y Ro a d 011 290 2500 woolwor ths .c o.za • D i esel 011 783 0 8 8 2 • D o lc e & Gab b an a 0 1 1 326 7808 • D une L o ndo n 011 685 7055 • E r m enegil do Z e g na 011 326 7767 • Eye c andy Optometri st s 01 1 3 2 5 4 4 3 4 • Fo reve r N ew 011 883 4585 • Fo s c h ini 011 685 1405 • Fo s s il 011 784 0516 • G- St ar Raw 011 784 0321 •Gucci 011 3 2 6 7 9 2 8 • H& M 0 1 1 5 9 2 3200 h m. c o m/ z a • H yd r a ul ic s 011 884 8538 • J im my C h o o 011 326 6658 • K ar e n M i lle n 011 784 2937 • K i rste n Go ss k ir s te ng o s s . c o . z a • Kur t G eiger 011 783 465 • L o uis Vuit t o n 011 784 985 4 • Luxo t t i c a lu xot ti c a.c o.za • Mai son M ara mais o nm ar a. c o . z a • Man g o 0 11 783 7907 • M a t & M ay ma t a n d may. c o . z a • M er we Mo de me r we mode .c om • M i mc o woolwor ths.co.z a • Mo n tb lan c 0 1 1 6 6 6 2 8 0 4 • M r Pr ice mrp . c o m • Nic h o l a s C o ut t s n i c h o l a s c o u t t s . c o m • O l d K h aki 011 447 4466 • Or ang e Culture orang ec ul t u r e ng . c o m • Pau l S m i th 0 1 1 268 0352 • Pic o t & M o s s 011 669 0500 • Po l o 011 883 6126 • Pr ada 011 326 7517 • Previ ew 011 884 0 4 0 1 • Pri n g le o f S c o tlan d 011 783 4355 • Pum a 021 551 0832 • R ic h M nis i x M a ps M a po nyane and Ri c h M ni s i x Th e be Magugu richm nis i. c o m • Ri ve r Islan d 0 1 1 6 8 5 7 090 • Ruby I n T h e D us t 011 325 5111 • S a fil o 011 548 9600 • S i s s y Boy 011 447 6213 • SDM Eyewear 011 33 4 7 0 2 0 • S p i t z s pit z . c o . z a • S p r ee s p ree. c o . z a • S ungl a s s H ut s u n g l a s s h u t . c o m • T ik L ee 011 884 0019 ti kle e .c o.za • Ti ns e l tinsel.co.z a • Tok yo J am e s to k yo j am e s . c o . u k • To m my H il figer 011 326 6827 • To ps h o p 011 685 7070 to p s h o p . com • W i t c h e r y woolwor ths .c o.za

*Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press. Sunday Times The Edit cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that items will be in stock at the time of publication.

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

MAN THE EDIT

SPRING/SUMMER ’16

Vehicle speifications may vary for South African market.

There’s more than one way to make a first impression.

The Mercedes-Benz compact car range, including the new CLA, the A-Class and the GLA. Visit www.mbworld.co.za for more information.

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CONTENTS MAN trend s

86. ED’S LETTER 88. TRENDS checkerboard 90. TRENDS camouflage 92. TRENDS orange culture

94. FRAGRANCE powerful and pure 96. NEWS 98. MEET THE NOSE homegrown talents

fa sh io n

g ro o mi n g

101. HOLD UP, BACK UP, PUSH UP

pro f i l e 110. A LIFE ILLUSTRATED Serge Alain Nitegeka 79. STOCKISTS

LIVING 114. ED’S LETTER 116. TREND decor news 118. 100% DESIGN post-event report-back

fe a t u re s

120. HOUSE Jenny Button

131. RITZ renovation 134. GUBI a history 136. RISING STARS maison et objet 138. ARCHITECTURE the brutal truth 142. FURNITURE origami 144. DIMORE STUDIO Fendi apartments

MAN THE EDIT

SPRING/SUMMER ’16

Clockwise from top left: T-shirt, R480; windbreaker R1 900; T-shirt, R480; extended windbreaker, R2 200; unisex dress, R880, all Blanc THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

SANDTON CITY Diamond Walk Boutique U22 Tel: +27 11 326 7767

Excellence In Made To Measure Tailoring Su Misura offers the privilege of designing a wardrobe that perfectly reflects your individuality and the tailoring excellence of artisan craftsmanship. It guarantees a choice of over 500 exclusive fabrics, among which Trofeo, 15MilMil15, High Performance and Elements Trofeo-Cashmere.

TREND

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Escale Time Zone watch, R75 500, Louis Vuitton

We are feeling the NINETIES GRUNGE TREND, which makes its way back into CONTEMPORARY times with tartans and plaids. Gents step out in street wear and camouflage, while experimenting with the sportsluxe look filtered through hues of tangerine. Enjoy

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PLAID AND TARTAN make a resurgence, with interpretations from preppy to NINETIES GRUNGE. Pair a two-piece suit with a GRAPHIC TEE and polo shirt for an Off White look

OFF W H I TE

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1. Golfer, R699, Polo 2. Time walker 112604 watch, R73 900, Mont Blanc 3. Sunglasses, R3 399, Prada at Mat & May 4. Backpack, R3 700, Pringle of Scotland 5. Blazer, from R1 559, River Island 6. Lace-up shoes, from R15 500, Jimmy Choo 7. Trousers, from R819, River Island 8.

Sneakers, R1 995, Kurt Geiger 9. T-shirt, R1 199, Diesel 10. Satchel, R13 530, Ermenegildo Zegna

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IMAGES GALLO IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES / CATWALKING AND SUPPLIED

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Every man’s wardrobe should include KEY PIECES based on this UTILITY TREND in their STYLE ARSENAL. Amplify Givenchy’s battle-ready look with streetwear and SOLID ACCESSORIES

CAMOUFLAGE

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1. Trousers, from R899, River Island 2. Backpack, R15 530, Ermenegildo Zegna 3. Bucket hat, R299, Polo 4. Bomber jacket, R5599, Diesel 5. Bracelet, from R150, River Island 6. Shirt, R229, H&M 7. Watch, R4 299, Casio G-Shock at American Swiss 8. High tops, from R15 500, Jimmy Choo 9. Sunglasses, from R4 255, Emilio Pucci at Luxottica 10. Shorts, R499, Country Road

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Alexandre Mattiussi’s STRIKING TONES earn top marks. Balance the SPORTS LUXE look with DARK COLOURS and STATEMENT SNEAKERS

ORANGE CULTURE

AL E X AN DRE MATTI USSI

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5 1. Jacket, price on request, G-Star Raw 2. Trousers, R1 299, Country Road 3. Vest, R60, Mr Price 4. T-shirt, R699, Ben Sherman 5. Sneakers, R20 000, Giuseppe Zanotti at Hydraulics 6. Sunglasses, R6 950, Ermenegildo Zegna 7. Watch, R1 495, Superdry at CJR 8. Duffle bag, R3 000, Pringle of Scotland 9. Golfer, R799, Polo 10. Black Shield watch, R70 140, Tudor

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powerful & pure Clean lines, MINIMALIST BOTTLES, and uninterrupted, fresh accords are what we’re after this season

1 . L A C O S T E L . 1 2 . 1 2 . W H I T E , R1 215 for 100ml Cologne. Grapefruit, rosemary, cedar 2 . P R A D A L ’ H O M M E , R1 060 for 50ml and R1 485 for 100ml. Iris, neroli, patchouli 3 . C A R O L I N A H E R R E R A 2 1 2 V I P W I L D P A R T Y, R1 080 for 100ml EDT. Black pepper, citrus caviar lime, iced apple 4 . C K 2 , R 1 170 for 100ml EDT. Wasabi, mandarin, vetiver 5 . B O S S U N L I M I T E D , R1 265 for 100ml and R1 755 for 200ml EDT. Mint, grapefruit, sandalwood

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PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG PAPER ART SYLVIA MCKEOWN STYLING TESSA PASSMORE

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Simon Carter Shop no. U319, Protea Court, Sandton City

D E E P- C L E A N I N G D U O Feeling like your skin needs some attention? Try this new duo from Clinique, which addresses the effects of pollution on ageing. This isn’t a new concept for Clinique (its City Blocks are designed to protect the skin of city dwellers), but the City Block Purifying Charcoal Cleansing Gel, R300, seriously slurps ups oil and daily dirt from the skin. The secret? Bamboo charcoal — well known for its oil-absorbing properties. Other ingredients, such as glycerin, prevent skin drying out, and caffeine acts as an anti-irritant. And the City Block Purifying Charcoal Clay Mask + Scrub, R470, can be used as a five-minute treatment once or twice a week to deep cleanse and exfoliate. Both are new on shelf.

G et t h e lo ok Model of the moment Tommie Fourie (@tommiefourie) swears by these top grooming fixes.

Moroccan Oil Dry Shampoo, R397. “I’m addicted to dry shampoo at the moment! I use it to style my hair — it gives your hair more texture and it smells amazing!” The Body Shop Vitamin C Energizing Face Spritz, R160. “I always have this in my bag for whenever my skin feels a bit dry or tired. When I spray it all over my face, it instantly refreshes.” Beauty Treats Sugar Lip Scrub, R30. “My lips get very dry, especially in winter, and this lip scrub is great at removing dead skin and leaving your lips extra smooth. Plus, it’s super cheap, and tastes amazing!”

From cleansers to brow shaping, TRY THESE ULTIMATE FIXES for him TEXT TESSA PASSMORE

TAMING BROWS WITH TOM FORD The Tom Ford range of super-luxurious grooming products is not new, but this innovative gel certainly is. Tom Ford Brow Gel Comb, R730, not only conditions the hair, but the slanted comb helps to distribute the product and untangle and naturally shape the brows, too.

SENSITIVITY SAVIOUR Do you have dry, itchy skin that nothing seems to soothe? La Roche-Posay is new to South African shores, and the brand takes skincare seriously. A product really making us take notice is the Lipikar Baume AP+, R280, which aims to make atopic dermatitis a thing of the past. A 4% addition of niacinamide helps boost the skin’s natural defences, and the 20% of pure shea butter is extremely moisturising, not to mention that the patented active ingredient, Aqua Posae Filiformis, has been shown to improve atopic skin. Pair it with La Roche-Posay cooling Thermal Spring Water, R150, post shave or gym for the ultimate sensitive skincare fix.

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PHOTOGRAPHER STEVE TANCHEL PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT L’MRI ERASMUS STYLIST SHARON BECKER HAIR SAADIQUE RYKLIEF MAKEUP ALEX BOTHA / LAMPOST MODEL TOMMY / BOSS

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Grooming News

Meet the nose The Edit Man caught up with FRANCOISE DONCHE, the celebrated nose and co-creator of GIVENCHY’S NEWEST MEN’S SCENT, in the City of Light — Paris

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On how to spray a scent...

On the comeback of sandalwood...

“We always spray 25cm away, never directly on the skin, because it’s too strong — too powerful. So, this is the rule we share with everyone — that, and also to always try make a ‘cloud’ of scent to walk into — a cloud that you’ve created. It’s another way to experience the pleasure of the scent.”

“Sandalwood has been making a comeback over the last four or five years, and it’s going to be increasing as a trend, because sandalwood has a double symbolic meaning. It’s a spiritual ingredient, which is used in India by Buddhists, as for them it accompanies spiritual ceremonies. Sandalwood is what incense is for Russian, Catholic, or Methodist people.

It’s a wood that brings a kind of creamy, very comfortable touch to the fragrance. It is what we call a textured note: it’s always round; it’s a little bit milky.”

On the new addition to the Givenchy Gentleman Only family...

“This is the fifth generation of the scent and it’s a parfum called Gentlemen Absolute.

In French, ‘parfum’ means richness, high quality, depth, mystery, sexiness. It’s a word that means prestige, opposite to an eau de toilette or cologne.”

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On the notes and accords in the scent...

On fragrancing your clothes...

“We have used spices: a warm cinnamon, mixed with two peppers. Cinnamon evokes warmth, and roundness, and to be frank, it’s a sexy ingredient. This accord also includes bergamot fruit, which is fresh.

It comes from Sicily and it gives a light twist to the very beginning of the spray. Then there’s a trio of three woods, including cedar wood and vetiver. The woody family is a symbol of elegance and when men wear woody notes, it’s like wearing a suit — always impeccable.”

“If men don’t want to use it on the skin, don’t forget that your clothes can also be sprayed.

Your jacket, shirt, scarf, or even hair. It’s another alternative version to experience the fragrance and it also makes it very long lasting — I’d say it lasts a minimum of three days.” Givenchy Gentleman Only Absolute, R1 160 for 50ml, is available from selected retailers.

PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT ELLETTE FRANSMAN

TEXT TESSA PASSMORE PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH DE PINA

C u r a t e d a c c e s s o r i e s t o t a k e y o u p l a c e s.

Left to Right: G E N U I N E L E AT H E R L A P T O P B A G R 2 9 9 9 G E N U I N E L E AT H E R S AT C H E L R 2 9 9 9

CAPE: Canal Walk / Cavendish Kiosk / Somerset Mall / Garden Route Mall, George • GAUTENG: JHB: Rosebank / Clearwaters / The Glen • PTA: Kollonade / Centurion / Lynwood / Wonderpark / Cradlestone Mall, Krugersdorp / Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg / I’Langa Mall, Nelspruit • KZN: The Board Walk, Richards Bay / The Galleria, Amanzimtoti / Gateway Kiosk, Umhlanga Rocks / Pavilion Centre, Westville • FREE STATE: Diamond Pavilion, Kimberley / Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein

UNION GINGHAM

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FINAL LARGE SCALE

FASHION

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Half jacket, R1 500; trousers, R1 800, both Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu; shoes, R1 599, Puma

The recent SA MENSWEAR WEEK presentations showed an impressive line-up of homegrown talents. These burgeoning designers are bringing NEW PERSPECTIVES TO CONTEMPORARY MEN’S FASHION, in work that experiments with pattern, shapes, and textures

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This season the gentleman is draped in soft pastels, MUTED TONES, LOOSE-FITTING SILHOUETTES and pyjama-styled shapes for a NEW TAKE ON FORM and function

HOLD UP, BACK UP, PRODUCTION LOUW KOTZE PHOTOGRAPHY AART VERRIPS

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From left: Jacket, R5 453; shorts, R3 827, both Orange Culture; shoes, R1 599 Puma.

Striped jumpsuit, R1 290; shorts, R400, both Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu; shoes, R1 599, Puma SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

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From left: coat, R 1 600; shorts, R880, both Nicholas Coutts; shoes, R1 599, Puma. Top, R1 400; shorts, R1 200; vest, R1 300; bellbottoms, R1 100, all Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu; both shoes, R1 599, Puma.

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From left: hand-dyed jumpsuit, R2 800.

Alston swing dress, R2 800, both Merwe Mode SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

PHOTOGRAPHER AART VERRIPS PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT DAYLE JOUBERT STYLIST LOUW KOTZE FASHION ASSISTANT ELLA ROUX GROOMING MICHELLE-LEE COLLINS USING MAC MODELS YANNICK KONAN @ BOSS MODELS ERIC MUBYAYI @ BOSS MODELS OKECHUKWU O @ ISIS MODELS DAVIDSON OBENNEBO @ ICE MODELS TOYIN OYENEYE @ ICE MODELS

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Jacket, R2 370; shorts, R780, both Nicholas Coutts; shoes, R1 599, Puma.

Jacket, R3 500; shorts, R300; long jacket, R5 350; trousers, R600; cuffs, R700, all Tokyo James; both shoes, R1599, Puma SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

a life illustrated SERGE ALAIN NITEGEKA is an artist who works across different mediums, including PAINTING, SCULPTURE, INSTALLATION, PERFORMANCE, and FILM. His current work is informed by colour, form, and the need to master simplicity . He was featured at the recent FNB Joburg Art Fair TEXT NTOMBENHLE SHEZI ILLUSTRATIONS L’MRI ERASMUS

Can you describe your favourite item in your closet? A tailored, three-piece, grey suit.

Do you remember the moment you fell in love with art? Not art per se, more like making. It happened when I made toy cars out of mud as a little boy.

What is your secret talent? Cleaning.

What is your favourite film and why? Skyfall, because of Bond’s resolve and, of course, the suits.

Which book has had a lasting impact on you?

The River and the Source by Margaret Atieno Ogola.

What are some of the things you love and appreciate about Africa? The remarkable resilience of her people.

Which art piece would you own if money were not an issue? Picasso’s Guernica.

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What is your secret vice? Cycling.

Where are some of your favourite places or spaces? My studio, my home, and cycling.

LIVING

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H&M HOME’S LATEST COLLECTION creates the ultimate summer look and feel. NATURAL MATERIALS and RICH TEXTURES are combined within a neutral colour palette, which is lifted by accents of ethnic-inspired prints; while finishing TOUCHES OF BRASS create a classic feel with an authentic twist

1. Glass carafe, R299 2. Cotton rug, R199 3. Brass lantern, R349 4. Brass bowl, R149 5. Ceramic vase, R149 6. Jute bag, R299 7. Soap dispenser, R149 8. Beach towel, R399

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advertorial

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LIVING

INTERIOR TRENDS

In a bold to attempt to enhance this already beautiful issue, we’ve decided to JOIN FORCES and create an experience that also taps into the wonderful world of interiors. TRENDS WITHIN DÉCOR, art, and product design have become so intertwined with the fashion world, making this move a natural progression. WE CELEBRATE THE MODERN movement in this issue, as we embrace rich patterns, ornate designs, and luxurious textures with a powerful combination of LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGN influences.

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TEXT LEANA SCHOEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY GUBI

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We’ve CURATED some of the MOST BEAUTIFUL AND SOUGHT-AFTER must-haves and spaces out there, inspiring you to embrace the old with A NEW TWIST

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14 15 1. Parachute by Nathan Yong, R9 690, Ligne Rose at alamaisonsa.co.za 2. Caesarstone London Grey (5000), price on request, caesarstone.co.za 3. Armchair, R4 218, Industry Collection by Studiojob for Seletti at generationdesign.co.za 4. Giant burlesque candelabra, price on request, Seletti at generationdesign.co.za 5. Ring my bell by Olof Kolte for Skultuna, R2 999, scarlinbrands.com 6. Diomira platter by Hybrid for Seletti, R3 030, generationdesign. co.za 7. Paper Table patchwork, R70 986, Moooi at Edge Interiors 8. Scope breadplate, R139; cereal bowl, R99; and salad servers, R229, all Country Road at woolworths.co.za 9. Stonekeeper MMXVI table, R70 000 (excl VAT), Douglas & Company at southernguild.co.za 10.Karui copper tray

by Gamfratesi, from R2 299, at scarlinbrands.com 11. De Padova Bergere, price on request, generationdesign.co.za

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12. Walnut Adinkra server, R22 990, lim.co.za 13. Gold felix lamp, R899, woolworths.co.za 14. Keytlery set, R5 980, Seletti at generationdesign.co.za 15. Belgian brand, Khroma Oxygen 404, R1590 per roll, dreamweaverstudios.co.za 16. Elsa by Franรงois Bauchet, from R22 831; and footstool, R8 976, both Ligne Rose at alamaison.co.za 17. Mondrian vase, R289, rialheim.co.za.

18. Die Steunpilaar lamp, R3 575; E.1027 Credenza, from R24 000; Herr Euler table, R16 850; Die Regterhand lamp, from R650, all douglasandcompany.co.za 19. Diamond bowl ,R749, rialheim.co.za 20. Hotel St Marc hallway by Dimore Studio, hotelsaintmarc.com SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

T h e T h em bi buc ket ba g, Kh o k h o This exquisite bag combines luxurious natural materials, a good story, local craft, sustainability, and functionality.

In other words, it captures all the things that matter to me wrapped into a beautiful, timeless, one-of-a-kind object. The Thembi basket bag is the brainchild of iconic handbag designer Sapna Shah and expert Swazi weaver Sinhle Vilakati, proving that traditional crafts can be relevant in the luxury market. R5 700, merchantsonlong.com

Al fi e Wall Sconce , Ho i P ’ loy This is the perfect light fitting for the commitment-phobe with a love of design; the name refers to the movie Alfie, about the glamorous life of a bachelor. This light can be hung up and plugged in, anywhere, with the cord used to switch it on and off — no electrician needed.

It’s 100% solid brass, precision engineered, and handmade in Cape Town. R2 590, hoiploy.com

E1 0 2 7 C re d e n za, D o u g las & C o m pa ny The combination of sleek, elegant lines and luxurious materials, with minimal use of colour, makes this credenza the epitome of the Modernist revival. Its rounded ends are inspired by the curved façade of Irish design icon Eileen Grey’s villa on the French Riviera. The villa was designed as a maison minimum, with simple efficiency, as reflected in this exquisite piece.

R24 500, douglasandcompany.co.za

Sw ings t a bl e, D o k t er a nd M is s es Foreva Collection by Dokter and Misses consisted of a selection of brave and bold, not to mention beautiful, designs. The fun, yet serious and sculptural approach of the Foreva Collection was definitely one of the highlights of this year’s fair, and, in my opinion, some of Dokter and Misses’s best work to date. One of my favourite pieces is the carefully crafted Swings storage cabinet, with its elegant lines and luxurious combination of pale, hand-stitched leather and smooth oak. Timeless, yet playful.

R32 500, dokterandmisses.com

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THE LOCAL DESIGN SCENE has never been as exciting as right now.

This year’s annual 100%Design SA fair was filled with OUTSTANDING QUALITY and INNOVATIVE DESIGN, proving once again that SOUTH AFRICAN DESIGN is a force to be reckoned with globally.

We share our FIVE FAVOURITE pieces from the show TEXT LEANA SCHOEMAN

Bench 6, Davi d K r yn au w The delicate sculptural lines and the carefully curated combination of materials of the Bench 6 speak to a Japanese Scandinavian aesthetic, and make this piece truly unique. The bench is made from solid ash timber, with a white leather seat and white weave. It’s also available in other solid wood options, textile variants, and weave colors. Dimensions: 1 593mm x 745mm x 569mm.

R20 850, davidkrynauw.com

THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

Fabrics, rugs and homeware, since 1987

Visit our showrooms in Bellville | Bloemfontein | Cape Town | Chelsea Village, Wynberg (opening soon) | Durban | George Kramerville | Nelspruit | Parkhurst | Port Elizabeth | Pretoria | Somerset West | Umhlanga | Windhoek | www.hertex.co.za

LE F T Button with her partner, Richard Hebblethwaite LE F T BOT TOM The reclaimed factory windows, which front the home, accentuate the volume of the space inside, and infuse the home with beautiful natural light OP P OSITE PAGE While the bottom floor is essentially one large, open space, surprise features, such as this fireplace in the middle of the room, separate it into different living zones

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A LIFE ALOFT A HAND-BUILT, STUDIO-LIKE SPACE tucked into a tree-filled mountain proved to be the perfect home for South African fashion designer JENNI BUTTON to rediscover her PASSION FOR PAINTING TEXT LORI COHEN PRODUCTION SVEN ALBERDING PHOTOGRAPHS WARREN HEATH FROM BUREAUX.CO.ZA

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TOP The reclaimed factory windows, seen from the inside of the house LE F T A sober canvas of stone, brick, and wood is brought to life with Button’s treasure trove of furniture she has purchased over the years

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OP P OS ITE PAGE The feature wall of the living room is dominated by portraits Button has painted since picking up her brush again a couple of years ago

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The feature wall of the living room is dominated by portraits Button has painted since picking up painting again a couple of years ago.

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“MY ULTIMATE DREAM was to have a New York loft in a wild forest setting, and I never thought it would be possible. It’s like a big art studio,” says Jenni Button, her petite frame dwarfed by the incredible loft-like space she discovered, and made her home, on the mountain slopes in Hout Bay, Cape Town.

While she was house hunting, the well-known South African fashion and interior designer had a refuge where she could paint in mind — Button studied fine art and has rekindled her romance with oil paint. She found it in this unique house with its immense proportions — hand-built by the previous owner a decade ago.

“As I walked up that driveway I knew this is where I wanted to live,” Button says. The gate sports a sign that warns visitors “4x4s only” — and reaching the house requires you to hike up 40 coarsely cut stone steps. With its dominating reclaimed factory windows and simple silhouette, the home doesn’t reveal much of what you can expect inside when you arrive.

It’s hard to capture the sheer volume of the space — but the word “cavernous” comes to mind — partly because of the fact it is secreted into the side of a mountain, and partly because the building is enriched with stone features, exposed brick walls, and rough wooden floors.

TOP LE F T Button, a collector at heart, has filled this incredible cabinet, from Cape Town’s On Site store, with white crockery. The multiple panes mirror those of the factory windows that face them LE F T Steps from the living space take you into a mezzanine that is home to Button’s en suite bedroom OP P OSITE PAGE With a home surrounded by trees, every window offers up a different glimpse of nature

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Button says the house had many “Freddy Flintstone” features when she purchased it, and her initial focus has been on bringing the various elements of the two-level building together with a consistent stone grey palette — and, of course, taming the vast garden, which has taken up most of her time and energy.

Clearly, it has unlocked her creative juices — the large wall in the lounge area is freckled with portraits she has painted. While Button admits to an affinity for quite “masculine” design, her treasure trove of furniture suggests otherwise. A self-confessed magpie, Button’s portrait wall is flanked by an ornate, hand-carved antique door from India, and surrounded by a compendium of Eames and Le Corbusier originals (design investments she made in her early 20s), Chinese cabinets, and traditional country French furniture.

“I can’t stick to just one style. I enjoy the juxtaposition of different influences and textures. And I think the items I have collected over the years work here because it is such an eclectic space itself,” Button says.

Amid the stark grey shades, taupes, and neutrals, is a persistent thread of bronze, copper, and brass — a gleaming bowl, a striking chandelier. “I love the warmth and richness of these shades. But I change my house around every couple of months. So you could come back and discover this wall is covered with acid

“I can’t stick to just one style. I enjoy the juxtaposition of different influences and textures”

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A B OV E Button’s bathroom O PPO S I T E PAG E From the steel-lattice headboard, to the embroidered French bed throw, and the Dutch daybed with its textured fabric — Button’s bedroom has a feminine feel

yellow paintings,” she says. “It’s the beauty of having a house like this, which is such a canvas.”

While Button wishes she could spend her days painting the Klimt-like view of vast trees overlooking the valley at the back of Table Mountain, her fashion business and growing interior-design client base take her into the city every day.

But weekends are spent painting, or entertaining friends. Bar stools hug the distressed wood kitchen island and the dining room table has tip-to-toe additions to make space for more guests. The half-moon tables, bought from a bric-à-brac shop in downtown Cape Town, “make the table longer, but also add interest”, Button says.

Always the tinkerer, Button has plans to enclose the mezzanine floor, which is currently home to her en suite bedroom, with glass. She is also busy excavating a space to build a wine cellar, and dreams of building a studio behind the existing structure. This will provide her with further solitude and a canopy view of her “mad garden of trees”.

Button’s bedroom is also perfectly positioned to capture this leafy view, and she says no two days are the same. “When I wake up in the morning, the light starts pink and then turns orange and then fades into blue,” she says. In spite of it stony form, it seems this home is always destined to be infused with colour — either by Button’s hand, or that of nature.

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AB OV E ‘I bought the map that lies above my bed, in Venice. I love how elongated and distorted it is,’ Button says. Her bedroom features some of her other favourite items, including carved tables she had made in Indonesia, a Chinese screen, and an antique Dutch daybed

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SHOP THE LOOK Bring some DRAMA and LUXURY INTO YOUR SPACE with accents of RICH TEXTURAL TONES, such as WOOD, LEOPARD, and LEATHER details with a rustic INDUSTRIAL twist TEXT LEANA SCHOEMAN

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1. Matt black and grey ceramic pieces, from R225, all woolworths.co.za 2. Brown leopard suede, R300 per metre, exquisitecuts.co.za 3. Two-tone pendant in brass, R1 995, weylandts.co.za. 4. Contemporary Chesterfield sofa, R39 990, lim.co.za 5. Clarry tall vase, R349, Country Road at woolworths.co.za 6. Metal Bowl, R149, hm.com/za 7. Rythme coffee table by Angie Anakis, R14 365, Ligne Rose at alamaison.co.za 8. Gianni Chiarini bag, R4 495, spitz.co.za. 9. Dark Antique ebonised beech frame upholstered in hand-stitched and beaded leather, R 28 450, casamento.co.za 10. Media cabinet with cabriole leg, R12 500, weylandts.co.za 11. Zebra-print leather rug, R7 599, zarahome.com/za. 12. Grey velvet cushion cover, R129, hm.com/za THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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meet me at the ritz

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A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the RITZ PARIS during the week of its POST-RENOVATION UNVEILING proved to be an unforgettable experience

T’S NOT OFTEN in our lives that we experience something profoundly extraordinary, but equally bizarre. In early June 2016, the Ritz in Paris opened its doors after a much-publicised renovation that took four years and cost hundreds of millions of euro — taking twice as long and costing twice as much as anticipated.

I was invited to have a tour of the hotel — three days before the official opening — and met my guide Anaïs Maës at the front entrance, which still resembled a construction site. Plastic covered the floors, construction workers in hard-hats and dust-socks were buzzing in and out, and curtain rods and flooring was still being laid. Maës explained they were working through the night to get it finished for the grand reveal. I felt like Cinderella taking a peek at the ball before it begins.

The hotel was opened in 1898 by César Ritz, and this is the first time it has been closed for renovations — it even stayed open during the Second World War. Renovating one of the world’s most iconic hotels that boasts a suite — the Imperial — that’s been declared a national monument; was once the headquarters of the Luftwaffe; was the location of Princess Di’s last supper; and home to Coco Chanel for more than 30 years, is no easy feat.

Enter Thierry Despont, whose design projects include the restoration of The Statue of Liberty in 1984, the Carlyle, and Claridge’s. When it comes to giving new life to architectural landmarks, he’s the man to call. And when embarking on the restoration of such an iconic institution as the Paris Ritz, it was clear the essence of the space could not change.

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Maës first led me up a Pierre Frey carpeted staircase (many of the carpets in the hotel have been made by this 80-year-old French furnishing company) to the Imperial Suite, the most impressive of them all, where prices start from €18 000 a night. Many of the main suites are named after distinguished patrons (for example, the light blue Windsor suite is named after the Duke and Duchess of Windsor), and Suite Imperial features portraits of Napoleon and Josephine. The one bedroom is a replica of Marie Antoinette’s, and the rooms of the suite run parallel to the Place Vendôme, each with vast, draped French windows overlooking the Vendôme Column. Panelling and features such as the gold-leaf light fixtures and intricate classic moulding are all radiantly fresh. Despite the classical French décor, every piece looks brand new, and you feel as if you’re living and breathing 18th century Paris.

The bathrooms, too, are an experience in themselves. Awash in peachy Carrara marble and soft lighting, Ritz ensured all were en suite (an unusual luxury in 1898) and chose the colours himself, as he claimed peach was more flattering for a woman’s complexion. The taps are the original golden swans, all of which were restored or replaced with exact replicas.

This was the brief for the renovation: restore and replace everything, and ensure it retains the grandness that is synonymous with the Ritz. The structural elements were completely modernised (think air conditioning, heating, and so on), but the look and feel is the same as Ernest Hemingway, Marcel Proust, and F Scott Fitzgerald saw it.

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SALON PROUST However, not everything is completely original — take the retractable sunroof above the bar Vendôme, a Parisian brasserie, which transforms from a sunny patio into a winter garden. The Salon Proust is the Ritz’s ode to the Parisian novelist who frequented the hotel. This library “nook” alongside one of the main corridors is a completely new addition. Wood panelling and a portrait of the author make it a cosy and warm space, where Parisian teatime is celebrated — think madeleines and speciality teas instead of scones and clotted cream. It’s here you catch a whiff of the essence of the Ritz, a bespoke perfume, which lingers and wafts along the corridors by the reception and concierge, and has a rich, amber scent.

“Despite

the classical French décor, every piece looks brand new, and you feel as if you’re living and breathing 18th century Paris”

B A R H E M I N G WAY & C H A N E L S PA Maës led me towards the Rue Cambon side of the hotel to the tiniest of bars, affectionately named Bar Hemingway after the novelist who spent many years wining and dining here. It’s almost identical to how it was before — a mini museum and ode to the late novelist. The walls are littered with love letters and anecdotes. Richly coloured, low-slung leather chairs and wood panelling add to the intimacy of the space, and head barman Colin Peter Field is still standing behind the bar creating cocktails and sharing his Hemingway knowledge, his post since 1994.

We then go back towards the main marbled entrance of the hotel to the Ritz Club.

One of its most famous guests has to be Coco Chanel, who lived in a suite of her own design for about 35 years. Now, the spa is in her name, Chanel products are used for treatments, and the finishes reflect her admiration of Asian lacquer, gilded mirrors, and monochrome accents. Each treatment room features white tiles with black detailing, all geometric, discreet, and simplified. A grand staircase showcases the enormous mosaic underground pool, which is flanked by columns that have been transformed into a more Art Deco style — square as opposed to the more classical rounded columns — reflecting perfectly the Chanel-inspired space.

The thing about the Ritz is it has a feeling of utter magic. I stood in the rain in the Place Vendôme for a good 15 minutes post-tour, catching my breath. Despite the chaos of finishing up the renovation, I could feel the excitement, the prestige, the history, and the priceless value of what it represents. The result is proof that the more things change, the more they stay the same; the essence of the magnificent space is still the same since opening, just a little bit shinier, brighter, bolder, and ready for a new chapter.

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THE DANISH FAMILY business celebrated for its TIMELESS MID-CENTURY and MODERN FURNITURE will soon turn 50. While the company takes inspiration from reissuing classic pieces, it is also looking to the future, with a recent focus on UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS 19 8 2 The year the Gubi Olsen furniture collection launched, featuring the Diva Daybed

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The number of design awards Gubi has received

The number of years since Gubi started collaborating with other designers

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2001 The year Jacob Gubi, son of Gubi Olsen, took over management of the business

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VER HEARD OF THE GRASSHOPPER LAMP? The lamp, designed almost 70 years ago by Swedish midcentury design maven Greta Grossman, is one of many iconic pieces rediscovered and sold under licence

by Gubi. Another is Modernist architect Jacques Adnet’s leather and brass Circulaire S mirror, which is so popular it recently gave rise to a glut of copies around the globe.

The Semi Pendant lamp is yet another — designed in 1968 by architecture students Claus Bonderup and Torsten Thorup, its sleek silhouette and elegant, arched shade have given it cult status. And the list goes on.

Today, Gubi has a following of young and old fans, who appreciate quality and are happy to invest in pieces that will last generations. When we speak of our love of distilled design and style that never goes out of fashion, it’s Gubi that embodies this ethos.

Back in 1967, when husband and wife Gubi and Lisbeth Olsen opened the business, they designed furniture and sold textiles to the retail industry. The duo also sold coloured cake tins in the early days, and, in later years, sons Jacob and Sebastian expanded into the fashion market, importing clothing by the likes of Helmut Lang and Prada into Denmark.

It took another 20 odd years until the first expressions of the Gubi we know today came into being. The release of the Gubi Olsen furniture collection in 1982 marked the beginning of the brand’s reputation for

135 matchless furniture design. The collection takes its cue from Denmark’s craft culture, as well as inspiration from more decorative visual references, such as French Cinema and the generous curves of a grand piano, and is still in production today.

Fast-forward two decades and son Jacob Gubi took the reins as chief creative officer of the family business, injecting the brand with fresh perspective. “Less focus was put on the contract market, and we moved more into wholesale, expanding our collection. Design icons by forgotten designers were our new focus, together with up and coming designers,” Jacob Gubi says. “In recent years, we’ve taken our visual identity to another level with strong influence from the Art Deco period.”

One of his boldest moves was a first for the company — a collaboration with Danish duo Poul Christiansen and

49 The number of years since Gubi was founded

Boris Berlin of Komplot Design on the Gubi Chair Collection. The range is a contemporary interpretation of the classic shell chair, but uses ground-breaking technology in its production. By moulding a thinner-than-average three-dimensional veneer, the chairs in the collection have a distinctly modern look, with a lean form and a flexible feel.

“Our creative spirit, modern way of thinking, and the fact that we have dared to take chances all form part of the success of Gubi,” Jacob Gubi comments. “Due to the fact that our products span two centuries, the mix of furniture and lighting has the ability to give each home unique character.”

Gubi products are available locally through Tonic Design and Créma Design.

“We first saw Gubi at the Milan fair about eight years ago, and instantly loved their ability to mix new, creative pieces with re-editions of great 20th century design. They take risks and have re-issued pieces that I don’t think would be obvious choices for some of the bigger, more commercial furniture manufacturers,” says Tonic Design’s Philippe van der Merwe. “They’re playful, but never gimmicky, and always sophisticated. We love the new Multi-lite collection designed by Louis Weisdorf.”

Tonicdesign.co.za; Cremadesign.co.za; gubi.dk

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2001 The year Jacob Gubi, son of Gubi Olsen, took over management of the business

PIERRE CHARRIÉ Pierre Charrié is a magician of sorts, and his fascinating designs are not only beautiful, but have an additional element that reacts with their environment. Movement, touch, and sound make their design stir within, as they react once in contact with their user. Charrié’s unique approach offers the user a sensory experience that improves mundane, daily experiences. His Aerobie lamp, which provides light, but also alerts you with chime-like sounds when the room is stuffy, and his beautifully crafted campanes table that creates a gong-like sound, are among my favourites. pierrecharrie.com

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eading décor and design fair Maison & Objet, in collaboration with Les Ateliers de Paris, has selected six emerging French designers, as tribute to young French creative talent. These young designers will showcase all their work in “Talents à la carte” — a space within the fair dedicated entirely to them.

The designers selected in 2016 are all former or current members of Les Ateliers de Paris, which supports and develops creative projects and individuals within various Parisian design platforms.

“The Ateliers de Paris celebrates 10 years, and all this time has consecrated their time and energy to support emerging talents and innovative projects that are a testimony to the vitality and energy of Paris.

The selection of six talents issued from this incubator for Maison & Objet in September 2016 is a wonderful way to spotlight the work and pay tribute to the city.

Paris dares to meet the challenges of creation, and Maison & Objet is a beautiful example,” says Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo.

These emerging designers have all created numerous beautiful and innovative designs, which makes selecting the ones worth sharing a really tricky task, but we trust you’ll be inspired by young French design excellence at its best.

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DÉSORMEAUX/CARRETTE Nathanaël Désormeaux and Damien Carrette are a powerful design duo. Their Désormeaux/Carrette studio’s designs are a perfect representation of their complementary skills, combined with a sensitive, individual approach to design and technology.

This is visible in their all their designs, especially the Knot chair, which is a simple and beautiful piece that assembles without the need for screws and bolts. Another favourite inspired by fashion is their Dita lamp, which consists of a zip-up felt hood around a timber base, allowing you to control the light source. desormoreauxcarrette.com THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHY FOR AC/AL STUDIO CHANTAPITCH WIWATCHAIKAMOL

AC/AL STUDIO This studio was established in 2013 by Les Atelier graduates Amandine Chhor and Aïssa Logerot. This power duo seems to have already mastered the harmony between form, function, and technique.

Their minimal design approach has not only stolen our attention, but also attracted notice from design houses such as Petit Friture and Kann design, among others. I’m especially intrigued by their Eugénie coffee table and Anatole side table, with its clean, graphic lines and superior functionality. ac-al.com

STUDIO MONSIEUR Manon Leblanc and Romain Diroux from Studio Monsieur have created objects that not only reinterpret the traditional pieces we use every day, but also reflect their fascination for both artisanal and industrial manufacturing processes.

This gives their designs an unusual and quirky edge. studiomonsieur.com

JULIEN VERMEULEN “Feather master” Julien Vermeulen has decided to pursue his own artistic path, after working with some of the greatest names in haute couture. Vermeulen has almost reinvented his medium of choice, the humble and beautiful feather, and his latest designs and installations emit a sense of mystery, while embracing the rich textures and colours from the natural world. maisonjulienvermeulen.com

CHARLOTTE JUILLARD As a woman, I always appreciate a feminine approach to design that shows careful attention to detail, materials, and, most importantly, aesthetics. Charlotte Juillard studied at the École Camondo before her residence at the Fabrica in Italy. Juillard’s work explores the beauty of materials, and her unique sensitivity makes her objects original and surprising. Some of my favorites are her Hercule haltères dumbbells, tribu mirrors, and the exquisite lavastone collection. charlottejuillard.com

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BRUTALISM has long been viewed as DYSTOPIA embodied, but RENEWED INTEREST in the ARCHITECTURAL MOVEMENT has sparked a reassessment of its PLACE IN THE WORLD — and in the JOBURG SKYLINE TEXT GRAHAM WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY TRISTAN MCLAREN

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BRUTALISM. JUST THE word inspires visions of the bleak, grey housing estates of London: lives brutalised by an uncaring system. We imagine oppressive expanses of concrete — big, featureless, impenetrable buildings. Words such as monolithic, monumental, massive, and monstrosity spring to mind.

Brutalism — or more correctly, Neo Brutalism, which refers to the futuristic concrete architecture of the 1960s and ’70s rather than the early modernist stuff from the first half of the century — has become the default architectural expression of a future gone wrong. In fact, if Brutalist buildings and landscapes had a selling point — and Johannesburg has actually benefited from this — it was for film shoots seeking dystopian set locations. Ponte and the Hillbrow (Telkom) Tower both feature in Neill Blomkamp’s films Chappie and District 9.

But slowly the movement is being re-evaluated. Books with admiring photographs of Brutalist architecture around the world have begun to appear. In the UK, some of those loathed housing estates are being gentrified, made chic rather than simply being demolished. Perhaps it shows there is enough distance from the social fallout associated with those buildings to see this concrete architecture in a different light.

The distant rumbles of a revival of interest in Joburg’s Brutalist architecture are on the horizon, too. The gigantic concrete cone of Grand

Central Water Tower in Midrand features in one recent book, This Brutal World by Peter Chadwick. A Tumblr devoted to Joburg Brutalism represents local examples of the style in admiring black-and-white and sepia tones, not altogether resisting the seduction of their heroic nature.

Brutalism, after all, was a movement fuelled by optimism, public-spiritedness, and the will to build a better future. The term has nothing to do with brutality — it actually refers to “béton brut”, the French for raw concrete. The idea was that architects expressed the raw materials of the buildings, rather than covering them up. It was seen as honest — a celebration of the making of the buildings themselves, their materials and mechanics, and of the craft that went into it. It was an attempt to find beauty in truth. But something unfortunate was gained in translation, and the movement’s legacy has been tainted ever since.

Many of the best examples of Brutalism were fuelled by state spending, which gave architects free rein to indulge their visions. The architects’ intentions may have been good, and the buildings intended to contribute to a better world, but the movement’s conception and the way it was imposed on cities was undeniably top-down, and bore the marks of architectural and political arrogance.

Johannesburg in the ’60s and ’70s also embraced the craze for building public structures with concrete in this futuristic spirit, but with a twist. On one hand was a commercial approach that found expression in the likes of Ponte, which embodied urban sophistication and glamour. But on the other were the vast developments by the apartheid government which, at the height of its powers, wanted buildings that represented the state as modern and prosperous — the embodiment of its social and political solution.

The romantic conflation of truth and beauty at the heart of Brutalism is perhaps what appealed so much to the architects of apartheid.

Afrikaner nationalism was based on the myth of a connection to the land. It had no deep historical aesthetic tradition, such as the classicism European

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nationalist governments drew on. As a result, its architectural rhetoric had to appear modern, and Brutalism was the style of forward-looking state power around the world.

The language of Brutalist architecture also has associations with military fortifications, especially the bunkers of the Second World War. Joburg architectural historian Clive Chipkin notes that the apartheid state “derived its power from its security apparatus”, so the coded reference to military might suited the aggressive-defensive character of the state. In his book, Johannesburg Transition, Chipkin explains how the financial backing of the Broederbond made it possible to build on a grand scale, and the state built a cluster of centres symbolic of government power, particularly around Auckland Park and Braamfontein: the cultural centre of the South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC); the educational centre of the University of Johannesburg (then Rand Afrikaans University); the Metropolitan Centre at the top of Braamfontein Hill. The Charlotte Maxeke Hospital (or Joburg Gen as it would have been known) and the Wits School of Education on Parktown Ridge extended the project.

The New Brutalism could also be beautiful. Joburg Gen’s ugliness and oppressive scale is shot through with moments of delicacy, thoughtfulness, craft, and care. And its power is undeniable. Ponte and the Telkom Tower remain the most recognisable symbolic structures in the city, defining its skyline.

But is it too early to revaluate Brutalism, particularly given its history in Joburg? Much of the revived interest carries the taint of nostalgia. In Joburg, it’s not enough merely to regret Brutalism’s misunderstood beauty, and to try to revive it. Brutalism, has, however, proved to be a resilient style, and has had many afterlives. Some of the most famous contemporary architects have continued to breathe life into concrete architecture, from the pared-back beauty of Tadao Ando to the exuberant swoops of Santiago Calatrava.

At home, The Apartheid Museum draws on the language of Brutalism to create a historical narrative that is deeply humane and, ultimately, liberating. With that in mind, perhaps there is a way to reframe these misconceived dystopias. There’s a multibillion-rand plan afoot to redevelop the Metro Centre. No doubt it will face the difficult question of how to balance the imperatives of heritage and the need to create new meanings. But it will be fascinating to see this Brutalist icon’s reinvention for a new future. joburgbrutalism.tumblr.com THE EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

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One of THE OLDEST CRAFTS is making an appearance in modern design.

We unwrap ORIGAMI’S NEW EXPRESSION REMEMBER THE PAPER fortune tellers we made as kids, where answers would be revealed in a series of slick finger moves? Mention “origami” and your mind may revisit these childhood memories of folding paper planes or cranes. The art form is still celebrated and practised today as it was centuries ago; and there are also fresh roots emerging against a more contemporary backdrop. Not only is the paper-folding craft taking on new form, but new materials, such as wood and stone, are being used to adapt its basic principles. Disciplines from art and science to furniture design are paying homage too.

Th e s u r face d esig ner Pleating, facets, and folds have long been the love of designers across disciplines, so it comes as no surprise that new materials are being used to mimic this form. One such example is stone design company Odyssey, whose Ishi Kiri collection bears a remarkable resemblance to folded paper, but its intricate pleats are engraved into white marble, limestone, and granite. When backlit or front lit, these stone surface creations take on a dramatic three-dimensionality, which can be used to cover walls. odysseystone.com Th e fur nitu r e desig ners Emirati product designer Aljoud Lootah’s first furniture collection was launched at 2015’s Design Days Dubai. It’s called The Oru Series — “oru” meaning “to fold”. The distinctly geometric language present in her range speaks to the simplicity of creating a product with both aesthetic and functional value by folding a two-dimensional sheet. Her collection includes a lamp, mirror, cabinet, and chair, all made predominantly of timber. aljoudlootah.com Canadian architects Andrea Kordos and Tony Round’s Cut and Fold series of plywood furniture takes its cue from the paper craft with two clever pieces: the Origami Chair and the Flip Shelf. Both are beautiful solutions to an everyday problem — the need for easily shipped furniture in small space applications. Using planes of plywood and piano hinges, each piece can be completely flat-packed. cut-fold.com

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Th e ar tis t Swiss-born Sipho Mabona falls more under the fine-art vein.

His life-sized elephant, folded from a single 15x15m sheet of paper was exhibited at 2015’s Guild Design Fair in Cape

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Town, but it’s his acrylic on folded paper framed works that caught our attention.

The subtle shadows thrown by each facet make for dramatic and singular artworks. mabonaorigami.com So what is it about origami that has us reinventing it centuries later? The paper craft’s clean lines and angular structure are part of an aesthetic akin to modern minimal design, especially that of the Asian and Scandinavian schools. And what could be more satisfying than creating a three-dimensional object by manipulating a two-dimensional one?

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How would you define your role in the arts? I’m an origami artist, a sculptor, and a painter. I use paper as the basis of my work, and then often transform it using other materials. Recently I’m doing more painting than sculpting. How does paper give expression to your work? I love the concept of origami, which differs to other art in that it’s a transformative art. It tells more about the process it has taken, and it doesn’t add or subtract the way other artistic processes do. In that sense it develops a unique narrative. I also love that paper is not as durable as other materials, so it has a sense of impermanence and “wabi sabi” (the Zen buddhist philosophy of simplicity and imperfection) to it. If I make a mistake, there’ll be a trace of it in the work and I like to embrace that imperfection.

How is your work a departure from traditional origami? It uses the basic principles of the process; however, I’m pushing the boundaries. I’ve been deconstructing it by departing from the tradition in the beginning stages of the process. I prepare the creases for a work, but I don’t actually fold it, leaving it at the stage where the fold was about to happen. What are you busy with at the moment? I’m busy with commercial pieces and gearing up for the Expo Chicago in late September, for which I’m making several pieces, both flat and 3D. SPRING/SUMMER 2016 THE EDIT

F I V E O R I G A M I FAC T S

IN CONVERSATION WITH SIPHO MABONA

1. The exact beginnings of origami are hard to pinpoint, since paper deteriorates with age. Research shows that paper folding was present as early as 1000AD in China, but it became an art form resembling origami in Japan only about the 17th century.

2. It’s only traditional origami if you’re using a square sheet of paper, with no cutting involved.

3. Scientists at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology recently invented the Origami Robot, whose tiny folded form can be ingested as a pill and then remotely instructed to remove accidentally swallowed button batteries.

4. Every year hundreds of thousands of paper cranes (a symbol of peace) are folded and sent to Hiroshima to be hung at the Children’s Monument, commemorating the dropping of the atomic bomb.

5. November 11 is World Origami Day. The day is celebrated globally, and its mission is to create awareness around the ancient art of paper folding.

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when in Rome A private tour of Fendi’s Palazzo Privé TEP FROM THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE Of Rome’s busy Via Del Corso into the cool, marble interior of Palazzo Fendi, the home of Italy’s iconic Fendi fashion label and, as of this year, also the location of a new suite of seven boutique hotel rooms, a restaurant, and a private apartment for Fendi’s top international clientele.

Palazzo Fendi’s “Roman Lounge”, the brainchild of Dimore Studio’s Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci, is a symphony in sympathetic design, cleverly combining mid-century design details with the original beauty of the building’s baroque aesthetic. Exaggerated, carved scrolls, volutes, and floral details adorn the surfaces of the sage-washed walls, doors, cornices, and pillars, evoking the baroque extravagance of the Renaissance age. Of particular note is the custom-designed glass tube installation in the foyer (your first view as you exit the apartment’s private lift), and the 16-seater square dining room table, surrounded by Fratelli Levaggi chairs from Liguria, each of which is upholstered in vintage 1920s fabric.

The overall effect is a backdrop of understated classic style, with modern and vintage design accents seamlessly blended to create a space that speaks simultaneously of high luxury and comfort — very much like the ethos of the Fendi fashion label itself.

Via Della Fontanella di Borghese, 48, Rome fendiprivatesuites.com

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