Wanted: Watches, Jewellery and Luxury 2020/21

Rolex Sky-Dweller

wanted WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 0 / 2 1

My favourite gems are pearls and diamonds, complemented here by chequerboard cut black onyx, designed and manufactured for me by Christopher Greig.

Accompanying me is my harlequin Great Dane and best friend, Lucy.

Fifth Generation Jewellers and purveyors of fine timepieces for over 120 years Johannesburg • Hyde Park Corner • 011 325 4477 Cape Town • Waterfront • 021 418 4515 www.charlesgreig.co.za

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CONTENTS 12

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TREND REPORT All things green, botanical, and metallic are leading the way

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UNFORGETTABLE The most extraordinary timepieces of the year

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LUXE LENDS A HAND Remembering a year that haute stepped in to help

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WATCH TRENDS 2020 From green to ’70s chic: The latest tech and design setting brands apart

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THE GOLDEN AGE The warm metal is having a moment

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ALL THAT GLITTERS Designer brands share the latest in jewellery trends

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OUR COVERS

SUSTAINABLE LUXURY Some of the world’s leading watch brands are taking it seriously

Tourbillon Co-Axial Master Chronometer, R3 288 000, OMEGA PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

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LUXURY NOTEBOOK Rounding up some luxury lifestyle inspiration

Sky-Dweller, POR, ROLEX Details on p. 36 PHOTOGRAPHY NICK VAN RENEN/LAMPOST, MODEL JAMES N/20MANAGEMENT, HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY, PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT TATENDA CHIDORA, STYLING ASHLEIGH VAN DER WESTHUIZEN, LOCATION NIROX SCULPTURE PARK

Wanted is available with Business Day nationwide. Subscription enquiries: 086 052 5200 PRINTED by Novus Print for Arena Holdings, Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193

WIN A diamond ring worth R20 000 from The Jewellery Council of South Africa

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BUSINESS DAY WANTED EDITOR Lukanyo Mnyanda PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras HEAD ADVERTISING SALES PRINT AND DIGITAL Eben Gewers CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Andrew Gill

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SUPER NATURAL Botanicals in a bottle you’ll want now CHALLENGING TIME Debbie Hathway reports back on the Watches & Wonders virtual fair

WJL EDITION 2020/21

EDITOR’S LETTER Inspired by nature

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY EDITOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly (jacquie@mwebbiz.co.za) EDITOR IN CHIEF Sarah Buitendach (buitendachs@arena.africa) MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure 011 280 5605 or 082 446 0747 (mcclurem@arena.africa) BUSINESS MANAGER Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 (shaffy@arena.africa) ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Yvette Mehl (yvette@yvonneshaff.co.za) ART DIRECTOR Kate Walters (katewalters@mweb.co.za) BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi (thusin@arena.africa) COPY EDITOR Joey Kok FINAL EYE Benazir Cassim CONTRIBUTORS Gary Cotterell, Malcolm Dare, Debbie Hathway, Sahil Harilal, Sinead Martin, Judd van Rensburg

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STOCKISTS Where to find your favourite piece

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THE LAST WORD Mark Read of the Everard Read Gallery on his love for all things botanical

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, POR, BULGARI

Panthère de Cartier, CARTIER Details on p. 72

PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG, MODEL ANNAH/ FANJAM, HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY/ LAMPOST, NAILS SORBET

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Rings and pendant with diamonds and tanzanite in gold, SHEMER Details on p. 70 PHOTOGRAPHYJUDD VAN RENSBURG, MODEL ANNAH/FANJAM, HAIR AND MAKEUP LESLEY WHITBY/ LAMPOST, NAILS SORBET

Collar with diamond and spectacle-set, cushionshaped kunzites in 18kt rose gold on akoya pearls with pavé-set diamond spacers in 18kt rose gold, POR, CHARLES GREIG PHOTOGRAPHY MALCOLM DARE

ED’S LETTER

WJL EDITION 2020

UNFORGETTABLE

Zenith The Zenith Defy 21 ultraviolet and the pink edition are remarkable watches for many reasons, but the colours just stopped me in my tracks.

Charles Greig There’s just something about a bee — and Charles Greig knows it.

I covet each one of these beauties, the golden bee charm on a dark green cable most of all.

W

HEN WE STARTED to plan this edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery, and Luxury, the team agreed that it was time for all things natural to be our chief source of inspiration. After all, the worlds of high jewellery and haute horlogerie have forever drawn on nature for some of their finest designs. Plus, as global conversations about sustainability and conservation become increasingly urgent, we were seeing luxury stepping up to play its part too.

Then came Covid-19, and our nature focus became especially poignant. Life as

we knew it changed almost overnight, and much has been written and said about the role our modern lifestyle has played in this growing threat from an unseen enemy.

But, while we continue to grapple with a new way of living, and wonder how this is all going to end, I marvel at the resilience and optimism of the world of luxury brands that — thankfully — have the resources to play an important role in a safe new world.

Not only have many of these brands already made quite incredible contributions to the Covid effort (see Kath Kesselaar’s piece, Luxe

Lends a Hand, on page 59), as Gary Cotterell writes on page 80, there are many luxury brands investing research and resources in sustainable practices.

Maybe I’m stretching the metaphor, but I’m really hopeful that, just as nature has demonstrated its extraordinary ability to revive and blossom after natural disasters like fire and flood, so too our beautiful world of luxury and innovation, technology, and design will thrive once more and continue to be a force for change.

Stay safe in these unforgettable times.

Acqua di Parma The fresh delight of Acqua di Parma Colonia has always been one of my major obsessions — how exciting that it is now available at Woolworths and Skins Cosmetics.

Jacquie

Omega

Mervis Brothers

E DITOR’S PICKS

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If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on The Omega Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary watch, look out for Snoopy in a space suit on the caseback, taking a trip around the dark side of the moon!

Oh, to be a young bride.

I’d definitely choose a diamond ring from this range of new designs from Mervis Brothers.

From left: ring with Forevermark oval, halo-set diamonds in 18kt white gold; full eternity ring with Forevermark diamonds in 18kt white gold; ring with Forevermark Black Label princess-cut diamond in 18kt white gold; ring with Forevermark solitaire diamond and 18 side diamonds in 18kt white gold; ring with Forevermark Black Label diamond in 18kt white gold; ring with Forevermark cushion-cut, halo-set diamond and 30 side diamonds in 18kt white gold

wantedonline.co.za A TALE AS OLD AS TIME: SIX LUXURY WATCH PURVEYORS ON THEIR SENTIMENTAL FAVOURITES Gary Cotterell spoke with traders of SA’s finest watches about their own timepieces and stories

WantedOnlineSA

MAKING THE CUT: 13 FABULOUS JEWELLERY PIECES TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION Sarah Buitendach picks the new local and international jewellery pieces that have her hot under the (diamond-studded) collar

WantedOnlineSA

WantedOnlineSA

B u s i n e s s D ay W a n t e D c o n t i n u e s t o b e one of the leading luxury publications in South Africa, complete with a website that gives you a daily dose of inspiration, information, and plenty of fine penmanship. If you enjoy this annual watch and jewellery edition, don’t miss the opportunity to visit wantedonline.co.za for even more about the glorious world of haute h o r l o g e r i e a n d d e s i g n e r j e w e l l e r y.

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UPFRONT

WJL EDITION 2020

Green with envy

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If the dial on your timepiece is green, you’ll be amazed how much it will pop if you pair it with an emerald or two.

Even from a distance, an earring will shine that bit brighter if it complements your wrist 8

1. IWC Portofino Automatic 34, R78 600 2. ROLEX Datejust 31, R113 000 3. CARTIER Guirlande bag, R34 800 CHARLES GREIG pendant with aquamarine and smokey quartz on silk cord, R34 250 BULGARI Le Gemme Splendia EDP, 100ml, R4 200 CHARLES GREIG dress ring, R63 500 4. RADO True Square Plasma, R29 900 5. RAYMOND WEIL Freelancer Men’s Automatic 42mm, R36 995 6. SHEMER Moraglione necklace, R89 580 7. POMELLATO Orsetto pendant, R38 000 8. MESSIKA jewellery collection, from R45 000 9. LONGINES HydroConquest, R25 000 10. BULGARI Serpenti, R156 800 11. GRAFF earrings, POR

Supplied

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images

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The Streamliner

by H. Moser & Cie.

h-moser.com

Available exclusively at:

Boutique Haute Horlogerie 6223 Link Mall V&A Waterfront Cape Town 8002

+27 21 418 1889 BHHCT@ARCHTIME.CO.ZA www.bhhboutique.co.za

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UPFRONT

WJL EDITION 2020

Design inspiration

DIOR GRAND SOIR ONE-OF-A-KIND COLLECTION, POR

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botanicals 1

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From the stars in the sky to the most detailed flowers, great cats, and even the humble worker bee — this season’s wildest pieces take their inspiration from the natural world

The Dior Grand Soir collection unveils 14 new pieces featuring the bee, small inhabitant in the beloved gardens of Monsieur Dior. These airy-light creatures are adorned with tourmalines, sapphires, rubies, amethysts, tsavorite garnets, opal, and even feathers to become real multicoloured pieces of jewellery.

Their wings, decorated with precious stones and shimmering materials, seem to be fluttering in a sublimely ethereal spectacle of perfect buzzing. The whitegold case with pavé-set diamonds becomes the queen bee’s own sparkling hive. These timepieces are equipped with a quartz movement and an adjustment corrector.

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1. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Sonatina, R1 595 872,45 2. PARMIGIANI Fleurier Tonda Métropolitaine 36mm, limited edition of five, POR 3. BREGUET Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, R3 857 600 4. DIOR Grand Soir one-of-a-kind collection, POR 5. LONGINES DolceVita “Starry Night”, R20 000 6. BULGARI Fiorever ring, R91 600 7. TAG HEUER Autavia Automatic 42mm, R60 000 8. BLANCPAIN Métiers d’Art The Great Wave, R2 469 000 9. HERMÈS Arceau “Into the Canadian Wild”, limited edition of 24, POR 10. CARTIER Panthère Tropicale ring, POR 11. SHEMER Moraglione jewellery, from R37 720 to R75 900 MONTBLANC Meisterstück Le Petit Prince Classique fountain pen, R13 900; CHOPARD Happy Animals scarf, R5 296, all Boutique Haute Horlogerie

Supplied

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PERPETUALLY PUNCTUAL .

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar.

Ref. 5034: Generations of inventors have racked their brains in the attempt to transform the Gregorian calendar with all its irregularities into a mechanical programme for a wristwatch. Back in the 1980s, IWC’s head watchmaker Kurt Klaus finally pulled off this astonishing tour de force. Comprising some 80 components, his perpetual calendar recognizes the different lengths of the months independently and automatically adds an extra day at

the end of February every four years. The moon phase display is so precise that it will deviate from the actual course of the Ear th’s only satellite by a single day after 577.5 years. The intelligent mechanism is housed in a timelessly beautiful 18-carat white gold Portugieser with a midnight b lu e d i a l. C h o o s e i t, a n d yo u d e m o nstrate

R EG I S TE R TO E X TE N D YO U R I NTE R N ATI O N A L LI M ITE D WA R R A N T Y FRO M 2 TO 8 Y E A R S R EG I S TE R O N IWC .CO M/M Y IWC

Mechanical movement · Pellaton automatic winding system · IWC-manufactured 52615 calibre · 7-day power reserve with display · Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual

not only your appreciation of the fine art of watch-

Moon Phase · Anti-reflective sapphire-glass · See-through

making but also your impeccably good taste.

sapphire-glass back · Waterresistant 3 bar · Diameter 44.2

IWC . ENGINEERING DREAMS . SINCE 1868 .

mm · Alligator leather strap by Santoni

IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland · www.iwc.com

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WJL EDITION 2020

Most wanted

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metallics

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1. FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Classics Art Déco Round, R18 495 2. BULGARI B.zero1 Rock necklace, R121 000 3. EBEL Brasilia, R75 650 4. CHOPARD Alpine Eagle Automatic 36mm, R638 250 5. MERVIS BROTHERS cluster ring, R29 900 6. POMELLATO Fantina earrings, R230 000 7. BULGARI B.zero1 Rock two-band ring, R140 000 8. OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300m Chronograph, R339 000 9. CHARLES GREIG pendant on brown leather cord, R98 500; CHARLES GREIG pendant on orange leather cord, R47 450; BULGARI Serpenti Forever shoulder bag, R72 800; CHOPARD sunglasses, R23 000, all Boutique Haute Horlogerie

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Hitting the sweet spot of classic and contemporary, it’s all about balancing the warm and cool tones — and mixing your metals is an essential part of styling your jewellery box

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WA ATTC CH HEESS W

WJL EDITION 2020

Against all odds, haute horlogerie has blossomed once more, presenting the world with some of the most beautiful, complicated, and technically awe-inspiring timepieces. A bit like Mother Nature does every year photography Malcolm Dare production Sinead botanical wallpaper Joh Del for Cara Saven Wall

Martin Design

Blooming marvellous

WJL EDITION 2020

Clockwise from top left ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 36mm in coral red, R79 400; ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 36mm in candy pink, R79 400; ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 31mm in turquoise blue, R73 400; ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 41mm in yellow, R83 900; ROLEX Oyster Perpetual 31mm in green, R73 400

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PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut in white gold with khaki tropical strap, POR

ALPINE EAGLE XL CHRONO The pure yet bold Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is a column-wheel chronograph equipped with a flyback function. Its 44 mm case houses the Chopard 03.05-C chronometer-certified automatic movement, for which three patents have been registered. This exceptional timepiece is made of Lucent Steel A223, an exclusive ultra-resistant metal based on four years of research and development. Proudly handcrafted by our artisans, it represents the expertise and innovation cultivated in our Manufacture.

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PATEK PHILIPPE Perpetual Calendar in white gold, POR BREGUET Classique Gents Auto Moonphase, R592 600

WJL EDITION 2020

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Polaris Chronograph 42mm, R228 000 TUDOR Black Bay 58 in navy blue, R51 850 OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean, R235 000

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ULYSSE NARDIN Executive skeleton with flying tourbillon, R684 000 ROLEX Submariner Date in Yellow Rolesor, R203 700 PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus cufflinks in white gold, POR PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus Perpetual Calendar in white gold, POR

N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’.

Starting at USD 44’000.

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LONGINES HydroConquest 43mm in khaki green, R25 000 OMEGA America’s Cup Limited Edition, R131 000 PANERAI Submersible BMG-Tech 47mm, R194 500

a unique formula of swiss technique and italian style new since 1950

apply to the new panerai pam.guard program to benefit up to 8 years of international limited warranty register your timepiece on panerai.com

Johannesburg - +27 11 325 4477 - hydepark@charlesgreig.co.za Cape Town - +27 21 418 4515 - capetown@charlesgreig.co.za

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ZENITH Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, R115 000 IWC Portugieser Chronograph, R122 000

T H E F U T U R E O F S W I S S WATC H M A K I N G S I N C E 18 6 5

T I M E TO R E AC H YO U R S TA R

DEFY E L P R I M E R O 21

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TAG HEUER Autavia automatic 42mm on a bracelet in stainless steel, R60 000 LONGINES Spirit, R35 100 MONTBLANC 1858 Geosphere, R112 400

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BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms, R248 400 TAG HEUER Heuer Carrera Montrealstyle Limited Edition (160th anniversary) automatic chronograph 39mm with three blue azurage counters and a blue and white opaline dial, R125 000 PANERAI Luminor Yachts Challenge 44mm, R194 500

TAG Heuer Boutiques: Sandton City and V&A Waterfront Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide For further information please call 011 669 0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za

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TUDOR Black Bay Chrono S&G, R107 650 ROLEX Sky-Dweller R570 800

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WJL EDITION 2020

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Vintage Rally Healey automatic, R28 995 RADO Captain Cook 42mm in bronze, R47 000

011 911 1200 / RADO.COM

FEEL IT

CAPTAIN COOK

MASTER OF MATERIALS

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WJL EDITION 2020

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak X, R378 000 PARMIGIANI Kalpa Kalapagraphe Chronometre automatic with integrated chronograph movement, R600 000

available from Skins Cosmetics

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WJL EDITION 2020

From left CARTIER Maillon quartz in yellow gold, R450 000 BREGUET Reine de Naples Lady Auto, R233 000 DIOR Grand Bal Miss Dior Limited Edition, POR BULGARI Serpenti Seduttori with bezel set with diamonds in 18kt rose gold, case and bracelet in 18kt rose gold, and dial in white-silver opaline, R550 000 CHOPARD Alpine Eagle small 36mm automatic with diamonds in Chopard Lucent Steel A223, R257 150 DIOR La Mini D Satine 25mm with crown set with diamonds, stainless-steel case, and yellowgold bezel, R156 000

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From left CARTIER Pasha automatic 41mm in steel, R120 000 CARTIER Pasha automatic 35mm in steel, R111 000

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WJL EDITION 2020

HERMÈS Heure H Double Jeu, R104 995 EBEL Beluga 28mm with 40 diamonds in stainless steel case and black-stamped dial with eight diamonds, R83 300 TISSOT PRS516 Valjoux Auto, R35 550 HAMILTON Chrono-Matic 50, R45 700

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WJL EDITION 2020

From left

props

Katja Kellhofer Habib

IWC Portugieser Automatic, R191 000 PARMIGIANI Fleurier Tonda 1950 Lune with automatic movement, case with 1,8ct diamonds in 18kt rose gold and ember alligator strap, R616 995 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Master Ultra Thin Moon 34mm, R339 000

WJL EDITION 2020

PA R T N E R S H I P

the

GREAT

ESCAPE

Come away with us to an exquisite country idyll — and experience the sporty delight of the BMW luxury range photography

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Nick van Renen/Lampost text Mike Conrad

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WJL EDITION 2020

James: Rolex Sky-Dweller; Taigarama keepall, Taigarama outdoor messenger, jacket, golfer, and denim, all Louis Vuitton Loren: Rolex Oyster Perpetual; trunk clutch in black epi leather and dress, both Louis Vuitton; shoes, Tod’s

M8 51

the

WJL EDITION 2020

THE BMW 8 SERIES is a true grand tourer or GT, a car that characterises everything that’s made the genre extremely desirable. It looks athletic from every angle but at the same time exudes the style and status that befits not just the BMW name, but also your own success and achievements.

The BMW M8 Competition model takes this to another level, rewarding with performance that can only come from BMW’s hallowed M division.

It looks every part the athlete that it is, from its chiselled and aerodynamically efficient facade to the bulging bonnet, muscular wheel arches, and sporty double-flow exhausts. It displays poise and purpose. And with the M Carbon package, the M8 benefits from a beautiful carbon fibre roof and wing mirrors, showing even more that it means business.

The BMW M8 is not only eye-catching, it is also a thoroughbred performer, reflecting its ultimate status as a Competition model. Under that swooping bonnet sits a 4.4 litre bi-turbo engine that is refined enough to commute to a board meeting, but eager to let you unleash its 460kW and 750Nm of torque. It’s an engine that has been engineered for the racetrack, to deliver the best performance in a variety of conditions. Combined with M xDrive all-wheel drive, Adaptive M suspension, and the Active M Differential, the M8 can be direct or playful.

M Setup allows you to programme one of the two M buttons on the steering wheel, so that everything instantly matches your desired settings across engine response, suspension, and grip. You can also change your displays from Road to Sport or go further to M Sport and Track, specifically designed to ensure you have the best information to match your drive.

The M8 is the confluence of performance and luxury, responding to your every desire to explore the power on offer but allowing you to do so while ensconced in an interior that has been designed to perfectly match your status and lifestyle. Climbing into the M Sport seats with their illuminated M8 badge and highest quality leather, you immediately feel connected to the M8, as though it’s ready to respond to your every request.

And request you can because the M8 is state of the art, with voice, touch, and gesture control. It’s all perfectly integrated into an interior designed around you and your passengers, to provide the comfort you enjoy.

The BMW M8 Competition model is part of a team that not only includes the Coupé version but also a wind-in-yourhair Convertible and a practical and stylish four-door in the form of the Gran Coupé. All have their own attributes to suit your lifestyle while delivering the very best in performance and dynamic handling together with the luxury that comes with a BMW 8 Series. The BMW M8 is the definition of performance and luxury but more than that, it brings these together to create a level of emotion that few can match.

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James: Rolex Sky-Dweller; luggage, Longchamp; shirt and trousers, both Paul Smith; loafers, Tod’s

Loren: Soft grain leather handbag, dress and slingback heels, all Paul Smith

ELEGANT AND ATHLETIC DESIGN come together in a performance grand tourer that is as powerful as it is stylish.

The modern BMW 8 Series marks the return of a name that was revered in the 1990s and that is highly sought after by collectors around the world today.

The coupé and convertible provide the classic elegance of two doors, but BMW knows that sometimes you want the practicality of four and whether you want to be joined by family or friends, the Gran Coupé ensures you don’t have to compromise on style to have the versatility you need.

The BMW 840i Gran Coupé has been designed to be sporty and elegant while ensuring you have all the practicality you need with four doors and a spacious boot.

Like other 8 Series models, the 840i has the heart and soul of a performance vehicle. Its TwinPower turbocharged six cylinder engine produces an impressive 250kW of power and 500Nm of torque, all channelled through a smooth and easyto-use Steptronic gearbox. If it’s numbers you want, then you’ll be impressed with its

performance figures too: 0 to 100km/h in just 5.2 seconds, and a top speed of 250km/h.

Performance is not just about the numbers though; it’s about the clever engineering that BMW builds into its cars to ensure you can use that power in whatever way suits you. The 840i Gran Coupé is comfortable around town, and it’s also wonderful for those weekend road trips, providing a chance to relax and explore or take on some great roads. And if you want to make the most of the power available, then you can do so easily with the excellent grip and Integral Active Steering, together with a range of driving settings that can be adjusted at the push of a button to suit your need for Comfort or Sport. It all combines to make the 8 Series Gran Coupé feel as much like a dynamic sports car as a grand tourer.

Grand also means luxury, and the 840i Gran Coupé boasts the finest quality materials, the latest technology, and everything you need to feel like you are on the road in one of the most refined automobiles available. Sink into the perfectly sculpted leather seats, and you are surrounded by surfaces that are luxurious to the touch. The

WJL EDITION 2020

840i

the

design lines of the interior all interplay with the elegant silhouette of the exterior, forming an ambience that perfectly suits the sporty character, whether you are in the pilot’s seat or enjoying the vast legroom in the back.

A range of settings allows you to personalise the digital instrument cluster to suit you. BMW Live Cockpit Professional features the latest in audio, connectivity and navigation, able to respond to your every command through touch, voice, or gesture control. Simply ask it to play your favourite music, and you’ll be able to bask in an exemplary aural experience, especially if you opt for the phenomenal Bowers & Wilkins bespoke Diamond Surround Sound System with 3D sound.

The BMW 840i Gran Coupé is hard to match, providing a character that is as prestigious as it is dynamic, as luxurious as it is technological. It defines grand touring in a way that only BMW can.

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GRAN COUPÉ

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WJL EDITION 2020

M760Li xDRIVE the

STYLE, LUXURY, TECHNOLOGY, and a superb driving experience all come together in the BMW 7 Series — the epitome of executive motoring from the house of Bayerische Motoren Werke. It’s a car that not only reflects your style, your status, and your achievements in life, but one that matches your desire to own the latest in design, technology, and the world’s best automotive engineering.

The BMW 7 Series has always been more than a car to its exclusive owners. It’s a sanctuary, a place to relax and enjoy being driven as much as to drive. It’s a private space in which you can work during the day and travel to a social occasion in the evening, stepping out in style and perfectly relaxed.

From the second you hold the beautifully crafted digital key in your hand, you are aware that you are experiencing the very best. That is even more apparent

when you relax in the sumptuous interior with its highquality materials and sensuous design.

Every element has been created to provide the most relaxing environment, a place for successful individuals to unwind.

Should you choose to be driven, then you will find the rear of the cabin truly first-class. Sink into the seats, rest your head in the headrest-mounted pillows, select your massage function, and you will be hard pressed not to feel as though you have been whisked away. The Executive Lounge option provides seats that recline, legroom that allows you to stretch out even more, and a level of comfort that far exceeds your expectations.

The BMW 7 Series is also a place to be connected, to work, and to conduct the online meetings to which we have become accustomed. From the latest in highdefinition rear-seat entertainment to the BMW Touch

Command tablet allowing you to access functions of the car or the internet and a fold-out table on which to put your laptop, the BMW 7 Series is the perfect extension of your office.

Driving the BMW 7 Series is all about enjoying the passion that BMW has for making the most of every road.

There’s something for every top executive, from efficient petrol and diesels to the incredibly sporty M760Li performance model. You can plug into the future of motoring with the plug-in hybrid electric 745Le, able to waft through our urban centres using only electric power, or allow the efficient petrol engine to effortlessly take you to your destination. The 7 Series is engineered to make every drive enjoyable, no matter your mood, and it’s designed to ensure that you feel as accomplished behind the wheel as you do standing alongside it.

As stylish as the 7 Series is, it is also laden with the

WJL EDITION 2020

James: Cap, sunglasses, top, trousers, and sneakers, all Dolce & Gabbana

Loren: Devotion bag, drop earrings, sunglasses, blouse, belt, skirt, and earrings, all Dolce & Gabbana

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latest technology. You have the world at your fingertips, with the ability to use voice or gesture control for the BMW Live Cockpit Professional infotainment system. It provides you access to everything from your favourite music to the latest news headlines. It can optimise your route to ensure you reach that important meeting in the shortest possible time, and it can even tell you what the weather will be when you get there. It is, in effect, your own personal assistant.

It assists in other ways too. It is able to reverse the last 50m you have just travelled should the need arise, or to provide driving assistance on a long highway journey.

The BMW 7 Series is more than an executive car; it’s part of your lifestyle, a reflection of your status in the same way that the watch on your wrist is. It says who you are and that you do not accept compromises. It is an exceptional car for exceptional people.

Loren:

James:

Pasha de Cartier watch, Cartier; bag, blazer, golfer, and trousers, all Gucci; sneakers, Paul Smith

Pasha de Cartier watch, Cartier; Love bracelet, Cartier; earrings, ring, Jackie 1961 handbag, jacket, blouse, shorts, and hat, all Gucci; loafers, Salvatore Ferragamo

photographer’s assistant Tatenda Chidora styling Ashleigh van der Westhuizen photographer’s assistant Tatenda Chidora styling Ashleigh van der Westhuizen hair and makeup Lesley Whitby location Nirox Scuplture Park hair and makeup Lesley Whitby location Nirox Scuplture Park models Loren/Boss and James N/20Management models Loren/Boss and James N/20Management

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X7

“The X7 is perfectly suited for a weekend away at the holiday home or a luxury adventure”

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the

WJL EDITION 2020

THE BRIEF FOR THE BMW X7 was simple — make it the 7 Series of sports utility vehicles, and in this sense it certainly overdelivers. But it’s much more than that, because the X7 is BMW’s flagship sports activity vehicle (SAV). That means that it can go off-road, traverse the length and breadth of the country without breaking a sweat, and it can do all of this while transporting up to seven people in the pinnacle of luxury.

Nothing has been overlooked when it comes to making the X7 M50D both luxurious and capable.

It is easily comparable to hand-built luxury vehicles that pride themselves on their quality, refinement, and attention to detail, not to mention their price tag. Climb inside, and you are greeted by an unmatched level of opulence, from the finely finished trim on the dashboard to the sumptuous leather of the electrically adjustable seats. It is all about combining the latest technology with the best in sophisticated luxury.

That luxury also extends to the option of an exquisite Swarovski crystal gear lever, the perfect accessory to match the colour choices of the ambient lighting and panoramic glass roof.

At 1 805mm tall, the X7 offers plenty of headroom, but that’s only part of the story when it comes to the incredibly spacious interior. The 3 105mm wheelbase allows for three rows of seats to accommodate up to seven people, all of whom can enjoy sumptuous leather, their own cupholders, USB ports and climate controls, and unlike in many rivals, all have lots of legroom. Should you want

the full first-class treatment, then the X7 can be ordered with two super-luxurious seats in the back that recline and provide an unbelievable amount of legroom. They are perfect for enjoying the rear seat entertainment Professional system that provides you access to audio and video and can even be connected to a gaming console. It’s all about your space for your needs.

As a large SAV, the BMW X7 is also perfectly suited for a weekend away at the holiday home or a luxury adventure.

There’s ample space for all you might need and easy access to the boot courtesy of an effortless electronic tailgate. Should you need to traverse gravel roads, the air suspension ensures you remain comfortable at all times, while should the going get any trickier, the off-road settings (optional only for xDrive30d model) will keep you on the move.

And the BMW X7 M50D can definitely move.

It boasts 294kW and 760Nm of torque, capable of reaching 100km/h in just 5.4 seconds. But that only tells part of the story, because thanks to BMW’s incredible Efficient Dynamics technology, the M50D consumes just 7.8l/100km, promising to get you to the coast or to your luxury safari lodge.

Technology is also present in how the X7 makes your life easier on the road. Assistance systems such as Driving Assist Professional and Parking Assist Plus make every journey more relaxing and allow you to park with minimum effort.

In the BMW X7 M50D, the quest for perfection in design, luxury, technology, and performance come together in a way that is matched only by your ambition to make the most of every moment.

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WJL EDITION 2020

Despite suffering its own losses, the luxury-goods business stepped up to help a world in need during COVID-19

Luxe le nds a hand

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N 11 MARCH 2020, the World Health Organization (WHO) officially declared Covid-19 a global pandemic.

That was seven months ago. At the time of writing, there were a staggering 36.4-million reported cases of coronavirus worldwide. I’m not sure anyone remembers a world pre-Covid, and we’re sure never to forget it, either.

As a result of the pandemic, and subsequent worldwide lockdowns and travel restrictions, the luxury goods sector found itself drawn to a standstill. With stores closed and fashion weeks cancelled, luxury goods had to figure out a way to rebound — and fast. Pivoting (another grossly overused word in 2020) to an intensified digital strategy, luxury brands have adapted to the pandemic in a somewhat commendable feat.

At the same time, the luxury-goods industry found itself in a unique position to help others. With the healthcare industry struggling to keep up, and vulnerable communities left in the lurch, luxury brands pledged to help fight Covid-19. Whether it was with surgical garb, equipment or monetary donations, using its breadth of resources, the industry mobilised to bring relief.

Is the act of goodwill free from criticism, and are these efforts merely an act of virtue signalling? Does it even matter? Help is help after all — and needed now more than ever.

Ralph Lauren

Graff & De Beers

In the US, Ralph Lauren led the charge in luxury’s Covid-19 effort, donating money and producing PPE. From September, Ralph Lauren began selling high-filtration face masks made from excess fabric of previous season, with profits going to the WHO.

In April, luxury diamond house Graff announced it would donate $1-million to the WHO’s Covid-19 Solidarity Response Fund.

In a similar vein, diamond group De Beers has pledged $10-million for relief efforts in Botswana, Canada, Namibia, and South Africa.

Kering Kering and its houses — Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and others — have donated €3-million (plus an additional €2-million in crowdfunding projects) towards Covid-19 relief.

Gucci, specifically, committed to producing 1.1-million surgical masks and 55 000 gowns for Italy’s Tuscany region; with Saint Laurent and Balenciaga retooling their workshops to produce 15 000 surgical masks per week for medical staff in Paris. To assist with the production of protective equipment, Kering has financed the purchase of 60 3D printers for the Cochin Hospital in Paris.

In support of the CDC Foundation in the US, the group has donated

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$1-million to fund medical essentials and personal protective equipment (PPE).

In aid of personal upliftment, Kering and its houses launched several creative projects to serve as a source of love, inspiration, and beauty. From Bottega’s Residency platform (a collection of artists, music, film, and food) to Soledad Bravi’s “Kering for you” illustrations, the group hoped to bring comfort and community in isolation.

Perhaps most touching is Kering’s commitment to the Paris Seine section of France’s Protection Civile.

Employees of the house volunteer their time by making calls to elderly, isolated individuals affected by lockdown.

LVMH Most recently, LVMH and CEO Bernard Arnault made an exceptional (and personal) donation of €5-million to the Pasteur Institute in Lille, France — a place Arnault used to call home. Having spent the last six months researching a cure against Covid-19, the institute recently discovered a “molecule that is particularly effective” against the virus. Realising the importance and potential of this discovery, LVMH provided much-needed funds to help propel the clinical trial forward.

Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani & Moncler This article was adapted from “Luxe, with love” published May 2020 in Business Day Wanted magazine, by Katharynn Kesselaar

Elsewhere in Italy, designer brands Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani and Moncler all contributed to the PPE effort and made huge cash donations. Bulgari donated a 3D microscope for medical research at Spallanzani Hospital in Rome, followed by over 160 000 units of medical-grade sanitiser to Italy, Switzerland and the UK.

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WAT C H E S WAT C H E S

WJL EDITION 2020

PRACTICAL CLASSICS As we simplify our lives for a “new normal” (whatever that means), there will be more appeal for the durability and everyday practicality of stainless-steel tool watches, and the timeless classic-style dress watch. Buying less but made better is the new mindset, with a return to investment pieces rather than shortlived seasonal fashion statements. “Beautiful limitarianism” is a term used by the team at trend forecasting company WGSN, which also “encourages minimalist design, but with a focus on individual expression”. Here, oldworld elegance and Bauhaus principles apply as they find a contemporary interpretation through elegant examples such as the Nomos Lambda (1) with its proud 84-hour power reserve display, the Montblanc Heritage Automatic, Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique (2), and the Hublot Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary (3).

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HEN THE SMART CREATIVES and engineers at the luxury watch manufactures met in their various studios one, two, three years ago to workshop their novelties for 2020, nothing could have forewarned them of the global catastrophe that lay ahead.

Well, maybe Bill Gates did. From the renewed excitement and timepieces on display at last year’s fairs, everything looked set to usher in a new decade of much-needed energy and spending. This year got off to such a good start, with the industry confirming steady monthly year-on-year growth in global exports, for the top-tier brands at least. The times were also changing with long-overdue disruption to the tired formats of the Swiss watch fairs. But who’d have predicted the new format would be cyberspace?

When Whenititcomes comestotoclocks, clocks,these theseare arethe thecolours, colours,

WJL EDITION 2020

5.

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THAT ’70S SHOW Industry creatives were fortuitous in delivering new pieces in a rainbow of uplifting, healing colours with dominant hues and calming pastels in cases, dials, and interchangeable straps.

This echoes the contagious outpouring of support and compassion for key workers during the Covid-19 pandemic from thousands of children around the world through their “hopeful rainbows”, according to a trend forecast report shared

by Francesca Muston, VP fashion content at WGSN. It also highlights the centuriesold spiritual significance of the rainbow as we look to seers and ancient wisdoms for answers and guidance as the pandemic weighs heavy on our minds.

“In the 1970s, the rainbow flag became the symbol of gay rights used to bind communities together and symbolise the Pride movement. Now the rainbow has become a way for children to express their creativity and feeling of togetherness,” the report says. Much like the ’70s, the

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finally presented its much-anticipated novelties in September, the new generation Oyster Perpetual 41 and 36 (6) certainly grabbed our attention in a joyous array of colourful lacquer dials, which include coral, turquoise, candy pink, and yellow reminiscent of the Rolex Day-Date “Stella” collection of the ’70s and ’80s. The Victorinox Alliance XS also offers vibrant pastel tone dials for women. HYT measures the passing of time with a fluidic module.

The dial of the HYT Soonow Instant Rainbow (7) is set with 668 precious stones in 14 colour variations, which surround a skull with one eye for power reserve display, the other clocking passing seconds as “soon” turns into “now”, making every moment count.

all-to-familiar protests, populism, fractured societies, and gender politics are at the fore again. Even if the past wasn’t really a better place, add the nostalgia for an era pre-internet as we nurse our Zoom-fatigue, and we will no doubt see even more interest in fashion and vintage-inspired timepieces from that era, such as the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation from Seiko. In a nod to the bow of hope and carefree beach culture, Breitling’s SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection (4), with its oversized bezel and exaggerated indexes, includes the modern-retro Rainbow Edition powered by their in-house Caliber 10. Parmigiani’s spectacularly shimmering Tonda Métropolitaine Rainbow Opal 36mm (5) takes the theme to the next level, as does the less discreet brilliance of the Ulysse Nardin Sparking Blast.

“On the lighter side,” Muston says, “there’s also a need for colour that stands out in the digital space. Colours that pop on screen tend to perform well when your consumer is scrolling.” When Rolex

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the theclassics, classics,and andthe thecomplications complicationstotowatch watchout outfor for

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IT’S COMPLICATED To avoid feeling sorry for yourself in this period of austerity, you’d be forgiven for adding a measure of exuberance, which finds no better expression than in the technical brilliance that is haute horlogerie.

With its unusual blackdialled De Ville Tourbillon, Omega surprised us with a high complication that is the first-ever manual winding central tourbillon to be Master Chronometer certified. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon (8) has its striking mechanism in full view on the dial side, which I believe to be a first.

The abundance of astronomical watches is also a celebration of watchmaker prowess and a reminder that time and astronomy are so closely linked. Including moon phases, perpetual calendars, time zones, signs of the Zodiac, and tidal indications, among others, these are some of the most challenging complications to achieve and also make an emotional reference to the origins of watches as tools of navigation. Stand-out examples include the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Astronomical striking grand complication — also an ode to music — and the modern nautical IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (9).

There is an even greater show of confidence in the choice of skeletal novelties with every detail of their magnificent machines proudly exposed to the world.

Among the highlights are the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton (10), Roger Dubuis Excalibur Twofold (11), Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique Skeleton, Hermès Arceau Squelette (12), and more accessibly priced Rado True Square Open Heart. Piaget stole the limelight, though with its 2mm Altiplano Ultimate Concept, pushing the boundaries of horological micro-engineering.

Turn up the tempo with the Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet (13) or Carl Cox glow-in-thedark special edition, and get your party on.

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WJL EDITION 2020

GREEN CREDENTIALS Blue dials are still the dominant alternative to black, white, and silver, but green has firmly established itself as the dial colour du jour.

It has long been associated with the climate movement, due to its instinctive emotional connection to nature.

Muston explains that “precious and semi-precious stones, particularly lazuli and jade, have connections with the earth, which certainly reinforce the love of blue dials and this year’s explosion of green on the scene.”

While connecting us to the great outdoors, green also reminds us of the watch industry’s historic ties to various military corps over the last century, and is the perfect match for bronze diver’s watches. Longines’ modern dive watch, the HydroConquest (1) is dressed in olive military fatigues this year.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback (2) features a rich green ceramic bezel and matching dial with its 43.6mm case made of scratch-proof satinbrushed-ceramic, and is water resistant to 300m — impressive for a chronograph.

The popular Rado Captain Cook Automatic (3) is presented in bronze hi-tech ceramic with complementary green bezel and dial. The new Montblanc Heritage Automatic (4) comes in 18kt yellow gold with a lacquered British-racing-green dial and matching strap for vintage appeal.

“Alongside green, we’re also seeing a strong appetite for spiritual references as people look for higher purpose and meaning.

A deeper connection with our products and where they come from will be a fundamental part of the future,” Muston says.

“Another trend is the move to protective metals. Here it’s about copper and silver

and their antibacterial or anti-microbial properties, which are obviously hyper relevant right now.” Hello, bronze alloys and other material innovations from the likes of Panerai. The brand’s patented Goldtech gold alloy with significant copper content can be seen in the new Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo 44mm (5).

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SPORTS LUXE Sleeves roll up as summer rolls in, providing an opportunity for some seriously haute wrist action. Ready to hit the courts or take a plunge? There are a number of exciting new sports-luxe timepieces arriving on the back of growing interest in all-steel versions of premium brand sports watches. The curvaceous H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds Automatic (6) with its integrated steel bracelet and the redesigned Breitling Chronomat (7) are favourites.

Others to admire include the Laurent Ferrier Tourbillon Grand Sport (8), A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus, and elegant Longines Spirit 42mm Automatic Chronometer Chronograph (9).

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WJL EDITION 2020

JEWELLERY JEWELLERY

THE GOLDEN AGE Gold jewellery takes centre stage in this year’s new designer collections photography

Judd van Rensburg

production & styling

Sahil Harilal

WJL EDITION 2020

Opposite page BULGARI From top: Serpenti ring with diamonds in Tubogas stainless steel and 18kt rose gold, R69 800; Serpenti Viper one-coil ring with pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R140 600; Serpenti Viper thin bracelet with pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R438 900; Serpenti Viper bracelet with semi-pavéset diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R874 000; Serpenti bracelet in 18kt rose gold and Tubogas stainless steel, R111 600

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CHARLES GREIG Carved filigree medallion earrings with Fiji Island mother-of-pearl, smoky topaz, blush morganite, and cognac diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R79 800; dress ring with one emerald-cut blush morganite and round brilliant-cut diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R245 000; dress ring with one large emerald-cut blush morganite and matching pale pink tourmalines in 18kt rose gold, R198 000; beaded necklace with facetted black spinel, bamboo, and smooth oval andalusite interspersed with pyrite and rose-gold ball spacers, R31 000

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WJL EDITION 2020

POMELLATO From top: Brera ring in 18kt rose gold, R38 000; Brera ring wirh diamonds in rose gold, R50 500; Sabia ring with 172 brown, white, and black diamonds totalling 1,8ct in 18kt rose gold, R199 500; Iconica earrings with 26 diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R171 000 Brera choker with diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R220 000, all Boutique Haute Horlogerie

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WJL EDITION 2020

MESSIKA Move earrings with diamonds, R158 000; Move ring, R91 800; Move bangle with pavĂŠ-set diamonds, R103 000; Move bangle in rose gold, R80 800; Baby Move pendant in rose gold, R39 500; Move pendant in rose gold, R61 600; Move double pendant necklace, R61 600, all Boutique Haute Horlogerie

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WJL EDITION 2020

SHEMER From top: ring with fancy yellow diamonds in 18kt white gold, R1 974 000; trilogy dress ring with fancy yellow diamonds in 18kt white gold, R336 000; ring with 5ct solitaire fancy yellow diamond in 18kt white gold, R1 230 000; pendant with 159 natural yellow diamonds and 5,02ct tanzanite centre in 18kt yellow gold, R980 000

S TO C K I S T S O F M O R AG L I O N E F I N E I TA L I A N J E W E L L E R Y

TEL 011 622 4735 ADDRESS SHOP U9, BEDFORD CENTRE, BEDFORDVIEW

www.shemer.co.za

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WJL EDITION 2020

CARTIER From top: Panthère Malice ring with tsavorite garnets and onyx in yellow gold and black lacquer, R292 000; Panthère Massai bracelet with onyx in yellow gold, R368 000; Panthère bracelet with tsavorite garnets and onyx in yellow gold and lacquer, R660 000; Panthère bracelet with onyx, tsavorite garnets, and diamonds in yellow gold and black lacquer, R429 000; Panthère earrings with diamonds, tsavorite garnets, and onyx in yellow gold and lacquer, R208 000; Panthère sunglasses in metal with smooth golden and brushedplatinum finish and grey lenses with golden flash, R14 220

WJL EDITION 2020

CHOPARD From top: Happy Diamonds Happy Hearts cocktail ring, R123 000; Happy Hearts ring, R77 700; Happy Hearts ring, R30 700; Happy Hearts ring, R57 500; Happy Hearts earrings with diamonds and mother-of-pearl in rose gold, R58 500; Happy Hearts chain with mother-of-pearl, R157 100; bangle with pavĂŠ-set mother-of-pearl, R234 950; bangle with pavĂŠ setting, R87 300; Happy Hearts bangle with one diamond and mother-of-pearl inlay in rose gold, R51 985, all Boutique Haute Horlogerie

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WJL EDITION 2020

Annah/Fanjam Model

CHARLES GREIG Earrings with South Sea Island pearls in 18kt rose gold, R99 800; ring with one 16mm perfectly round South Sea Island pearl with rounded shoulders, and two rub-over-set pearshaped diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R93 500; Fope necklace with pavĂŠ-set round brilliant-cut diamonds in 18kt rose gold and white gold, R127 000

Hair and Make up

Lesley Whitby/Lampost

nails

Sorbet

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Sorbet

nails

Ken Mervis of Mervis Brothers Jewellers shares some insights into the legacy of one of South Africa’s most loved jewellery stores

A FAMILY AFFAIR Morris Mervis

Ken Mervis

Evan Mervis

What do you believe is the secret to the success of the incredible Mervis Brothers legacy? At Mervis, we believe in good old-fashioned values. Honesty, integrity, and value is what builds a lifetime legacy.

What is the magic that brings generations of shoppers back to Mervis Brothers for their watches and jewellery? Three generations to date have maintained this family business. Throughout these decades, we have built new relationships with our clientele, and as time goes by, more new relationships with their families, and of course, we embrace more future new relationships. How does Mervis Brothers stay up-to-date with the latest trends while still being a reputable source of true classics? The latest trend and classic collections are a result of us travelling internationally to jewellery and watch fairs.

However, we support our local jewellery industry. Should our clients have newer and bespoke jewellery requests, we also manufacture locally. What advice would you give to someone wanting to invest in a new watch? We would always refer to the best quality production of the brand and its attributes. If you were shopping for a diamond engagement ring, what would you be looking for? I would look at the reputation of the jeweller and the number of years in business as well as the range of jewellery. Specifically, for a diamond engagement ring, I would view a design that is suitable to my taste and budget. In addition, should the diamonds be accompanied by a laboratory certificate, this would be seen as confirmation of the diamond specs. When you look at the legacy brand that you and your family have created, what makes you feel most proud?

I am most proud that our family-owned business is preparing for the fourth generation to follow suit. During the early years, we were restricted to mostly classic designs. However, while keeping up with trends and a new era, we still pride ourselves on maintaining a priceless client rapport, going the extra mile for our clientele, and client satisfaction. #MERVISFORSERVIS

Model

Annah/Fanjam

Hair and Make up

Lesley Whitby/Lampost

WJL EDITION 2020

Address Store L55, Entrance 2, Eastgate Shopping Centre, Bedfordview, Johannesburg Tel 011 616 7504

mervis.co.za

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WJL EDITION 2020

JJ EW E LE LL EL R YY EW ER

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Cartier

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EVENGE BUYING, covetable jewellery doing well online, record prices at auction — these are some of the trends nobody could have predicted for luxury accessories leading into 2020. But what a year it has been…

The strong sales tallied in China post-lockdown induced the new retail term “revenge buying”, meaning consumers are making up for lost shopping time and overindulging. Global management consultancy Bain & Company expects the personal luxury goods market to contract between 20% and 35% in 2020.

However, analysts say online sales, which already experienced double-digit growth last year, will continue to gain market share, and they expect them to account for up to 30% of the market by 2025. For the most part, this trend has been driven by the younger generations, Y and Z, dominating the luxury market.

Claudia D’Arpizio, partner at Bain & Company, said spending on jewellery in the near term will be a “mixed bag”, partially because the gold price has soared. What’s more, she does not expect to see a resurgence of “luxury shame”, as these products aren’t as stigmatised as they used to be. Leading high-end brands today focus on craftsmanship, sustainable values, and inclusiveness, so there’s a move away from flaunting wealth.

Nevertheless, while some of the wealthy may have played down their good fortune during the pandemic, collectible jewellery sales did very well behind the scenes. Sotheby’s notched up $7.4-million from online jewellery sales in 2020, selling 93% of available

items. That’s almost $1-million more than the combined pre-sale high estimate. Sotheby’s specialist Catharine Becket, who managed the auction house’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York earlier this year, told Bloomberg that her wealthy clients are “buying jewels as a sort of pick-me-up. Clients are sequestering at home and, generally speaking, leading relatively dreary lives. Some were wearing their big diamonds inside their homes because it brings joy.”

A diamond and enamel tutti frutti bracelet by Cartier fetched $1.3-million at a Sotheby’s online auction, $500 000 more than its high estimate. This is a record for a jewel and the second-highest price for anything ever sold in this manner. (Friedrich von Hayek’s Nobel Prize in Economics from 1974 holds top spot with its $1.5-million sale in 2019.) “The result achieved for this bracelet is testament to the fact that, even under the most challenging of circumstances, the demand for great art endures,” Becket told Forbes.

“Tutti frutti jewels have always held a special allure for collectors.”

One of this year’s most memorable high-jewellery launches has been Cartier’s [Sur]naturel collection.

Described by Pierre Rainero — Cartier’s director of image, heritage, and style — as a form of escapism through nature and imagination, one of my favourite pieces is the Panthère Tropicale high-jewellery watch with its kaleidoscopic combination of aquamarine, tourmaline, and coral on a yellow-gold cuff. The Gharial necklace in

WJL EDITION 2020

POMELLATO

UNCONVENTIONAL AND SUSTAINABLE Established in Milan in 1967, Pomellato pieces are known for their unique design and craftsmanship by master artisans, some of whom are second generation, at their in-house atelier. “The world of fine jewellery can be quite conservative in terms of values, aesthetics, and imagery.

Not for Pomellato: being unconventional, in fact, is a defining trait of our proudly Milanese, fiercely Italian, decidedly international personality,” CEO Sabina Belli says in a press release.

Unconventionality, in the end, is the essence of beauty, explains Pomellato gems master Stefano Cortecci: “An inclusive, fresh, empowering, and empowered kind of beauty. It’s all about wit and personality, not about mere self-decoration.”

Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato’s Nudo collection, says the

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and is on track to reach 100% sustainable sourcing for other key raw materials by 2025. Pomellato continues to invest in the traceability of coloured stones and diamonds while exploring new materials and recycling solutions.

Belli told British Vogue that “the road to a more sustainable future is long, but I am hopeful that with the help of the industry, our consumers, and the media, the situation will keep improving.”

Pomellato’s Denim collection, which features lapis lazuli from an artisanal mine in Chile, is a move towards influencing meaningful and permanent change.

brand is the essence of its work: “The lack of hard edges, the intensity of colour, the sensuality, and the organic charm are traits that recur in all our collections — from Tango to Victoria, from Capri to Sabbia to Mama non M’ama. Our inspiration comes from natural, organic worlds.”

Pomellato is part of Kering, a global group “crafting tomorrow’s luxury”.

Three years after announcing its nextgeneration sustainability strategy, Kering has achieved 100% responsible gold purchasing for its jewellery and watches

Pomellato Fopé

Charles Greig Chopard

nature, nature,sustainability sustainabilityand andmore more——ininthe thejewellery jewellerymarket marketthis thisyear year text

platinum, featuring octagonal emeralds from Zambia — as well as tapered, square-shaped, and brilliant-cut diamonds — comes in a close second.

Colourful combinations incorporating sustainably sourced precious stones or organic gemstones, such as coral and pearls, remain popular. “Coral works well with yellow gold, which is in again, and rose gold, which is still favoured,” says Richard Greig of the local family business Charles Greig jewellers. “Our pieces are well curated around the enduring appeal of radiant colour.”

Pearl jewellery featured on the runways for spring/summer 2020 in designs ranging from traditional and feminine to opulent and eclectic. There were sculptured pieces as well as those showcasing the pearl’s natural shape to add a touch of femininity and timelessness to the look.

Designers took inspiration from the heavens too, and celestial jewellery returned as a fashion favourite. If you were drawn to orbital cocktail rings or layered spherical earrings, you were right on trend.

Insects and flowers and fish and birds all had their moment too, the one depiction more lifelike than the next. This is where artisanal craftsmanship really shines. Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2020 is such an example. It includes a polar bear ring with pavéset brilliant-cut diamonds in ethically sourced 18kt white gold. Its expressive face features cabochon-cut sapphires for the eyes and black diamonds for the ears and heart-shaped

Debbie Hathway photography supplied

nose. The maison sources all its diamonds from suppliers certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council.

Chopard’s celebrated artisans typically flood their floral pieces with colour. The Ginkgo earrings and ring — with pear-shaped emeralds, tsavorites, and yellow sapphires to mimic the foliage — are testament to their skill.

Besides pieces inspired by nature, oversized hoops, gold chokers, chunky chains, layered or ultra-long necklaces, mismatched earrings, chandelier ear cuffs, charm bracelets, stacked rings, and stacked bracelets were also among this year’s jewellery trends.

The stacking trend favoured fine, simple pieces that enabled the incorporation of mixed metals or stones.

As far as chains go, few can beat Italy’s rich history of goldsmithing and chain-making since the 19th century. “There is no jewel that screams moneyed sophistication quite so much as a gold chain. Its history stretches all the way back to the ancient Egyptians, who believed that wearing this precious metal around their neck would ward off evil spirits, while Tudor royals wore elaborate chains to signify their power and status,” writes jewellery aficionado Katerina Perez on her eponymous website.

“Today, however, gold chains are always in vogue and, this season, the chunkier the better.” Gold chains produced in Italy set the “benchmark globally for quality and durability”.

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WJL EDITION 2020

BULGARI

RESPONSIBLE AND REBELLIOUS Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari’s CEO, said sustainability can take many forms, whether it be ethical sourcing or eliminating plastic across its manufacturing, stores, and hotels. “I believe that a company is not only about maximising profits at any cost but also about behaving as a responsible citizen within its community,” Babin told British Vogue.

Meanwhile, Bulgari continues to break rules and subvert the established order, innovating through creativity and imagination inspired by 2 700 years of Roman arts and architecture. B.zero1 is a celebration of the Roman jewellery house’s indomitable and pioneering spirit as well as ground-breaking creativity.

The collection is inspired by the heritage Bulgari Tubogas choker with ’80s-style studs. The original B.zero1 features sinuous, spiral lines inspired by the shape of Rome’s Colosseum.

The B.zero1 Rock look is even more dramatic. This collection is for women and men who are independent, strong, and audacious.

The house has pitched its new generation of precious unisex jewellery at “unapologetic rockers, independent thinkers, exuberant hedonists…”

Bulgari has edged yellow gold with diamonds and injected black ceramic in the two edges of the rose-gold version, engraved with the Bulgari double logo.

After the year we’ve had, who could blame you for feeling more than a little rebellious? The jewellery trends are quite broad, in fashion terms, so anything goes. Really, it’s about what you like and what makes you feel good. If you enjoy the powerful combination of empowerment, rebellion, beauty, and splendour, B.zero1 Rock is for you. Distinctively unapologetic.

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Fashion and taste influence the design of the Moraglione collections, but the jewels they contain must supersede trends to retain timeless elegance. Fabio Amelotti, partner and designer of Moraglione 1922, sees the jewel as a masterpiece. “Its beauty and harmony should raise admiration and the desire to possess and wear it, not only as a simple accessory to complement an outfit, but to accentuate the femininity of the woman,” he said in a press statement.

Moraglione’s new Cleopatra collection features simple and elegant designs that make the line both unique and prestigious.

The glamorous Malachite collection is also new. “The green stone is very fashionable now. Long sautoirs, bracelets, earrings, and rings complete the line and are paired with diamonds,” Amelotti said.

MESSIKA

MOVED BY STRONG WOMEN Valérie Messika based Lucky Move, her new collection, on three contemporary icons that break the codes of Parisian jewellery. “I wanted a trio of girls, a gang that would represent women in their diversity, each of whom, whatever their age, would embody a type of beauty,” Messika said in a press statement. “Kate Moss has always been my muse; she is a legend of fashion and a rock’n’roll icon.

Kate is, above all, a free woman. As for Dutch actress Sylvia Hoeks, she seduced me with her personality and her character.

Finally, I chose Joan Smalls for her spectacular physique. She gives off a very contemporary glamour.”

These are strong women who breathe their own style into jewellery. They influence diamonds, and not the other way around, which is the main characteristic of Messika’s jewellery. Lucky Move is a “sexy collection” featuring an appealing contrast between the delicate medallions that act as lucky charms and the strong geometric design of the Move motif.

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SUSTAINABLE IWC is working with surfboard designer Hayden Cox, the inventor of patented upcycled, parabolic carbon-fibre frame surfboard technology FutureFlex. Here is the Haydenshapes floating pop-up studio on Sydney’s Pittwater.

Watch brands doing their bit for our planet text

Gary Cotterell

LUXURY and watches. As of May this year, it is working in conjunction with the Swiss Better Gold Association to source gold from the Barequeros miners in El Chocó in Colombia. This artisanal gold miner — 46% of the workforce comprises women — uses methods that ensure the protection of the region’s unique biodiversity. Chopard has maintained Responsible Jewellery Council Code of Practices certification since 2012, ensuring respect for human rights, labour rights, environmental protection, and full product disclosure.

Despite its efforts, Chopard gets a “Not good enough” score from Good on You, a world-leading luxury-industry watchdog and source of trusted brand sustainability ratings. “Sustainability is a moving target,” said Scheufele when I spoke with her last year during Baselworld, “but we have come a long way already, and it’s a journey

that never ends.” Good on You is a group of campaigners, fashion professionals, scientists, writers, and developers who, together, drive change. Through the app you find ethical brands and see how your favourites measure up. For example, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin get an encouraging “It’s a start” for “good policies to reduce greenhouse gas emissions” but lose points for the use of exotic animal skin.

Sustainability is a buzzword, so greenwashing monitors have to help consumers cut through marketing nonsense. Receiving a Butterfly Mark is the ethical equivalent of a royal seal, and this third-party accreditation from the team of investigators at the Positive Luxury company is “awarded to luxury brands that meet the highest standards of verified innovation and environmental performance”. Involving thorough scrutiny, the mark guarantees

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which it sources raw materials, goes way deeper than feathers and feel-good factor.

The sports-luxe Alpine Eagle collection pays homage to the golden eagle, and Chopard works closely with the Eagle Wings Foundation to re-introduce the bird to its natural alpine habitat and promote sa more sustainable way of life.

A pioneer of sustainable luxury, Caroline Scheufele, Chopard co-president and artistic director, has championed strict internal governance structures and a centralised raw material procurement team in Geneva that works with a dedicated sustainability manager. “The certification process in our workshops is done by external moderators, and we acquire fair-mined gold from the banks. Good to know the banks are also doing their part,” she says.

Since July 2018, Chopard has used only 100% ethical gold in its jewellery

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UXURY TIMEPIECES could pass as intrinsically eco-friendly by nature of their meticulous crafting and longevity. Above fleeting fashion appeal, they’re built to last. Despite the resources and energy enlisted in creating these watches, if, as the familiar Patek Philippe slogan infers, they are treasured, they will tick over for generations to come: often offering a solid return on investment.

But with a new generation protesting its way into a cleaner, brighter future for our planet, brands have to work harder, as loyalty is no longer earned by provenance and artisanal skill alone. Companies are all too aware of this, as the new consumers, armed with the “truth” and global communication in their hands, vote with their wallets, expressing allegiance to movements of social and environmental change. This allegiance will determine what they choose to wear on their wrists.

From the innovative newcomers to heritage brands, more companies are making a concerted effort. However, even commitments to the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and with sustainability managers filling new posts, it is near impossible to be 100% sustainable.

As IWC shows in its recent sustainability report, picking realistic targets is key in providing a traceable, measurable roadmap of action over two-year cycles.

Positive social and environmental impact is a long-term commitment, which starts with designing to keep resources in use for longer and to reduce waste, creating transparent supply chains, ensuring ethical labour practices and diversity in the workplace. Bringing it home, Jackie May of local not-for-profit Twyg — whose work is in line with the SDG Goal 12, which aims to ensure sustainable consumption and production, particularly in the fashion space — explains that Goal 8 is a huge priority for SA in promoting sustained economic growth, higher levels of productivity, and technological innovation. At the same time, brands can make big financial contributions to environmental agencies.

When we speak of sustainability, our thoughts naturally go to the great outdoors, where we find use for more practical, sporty tool watches, especially from brands with historic links to adventurous pursuits and conservation initiatives. The very rare Golden Eagle is a magnificent ambassador for touching hearts and selling watches, but Chopard’s commitment to protect and preserve the natural environment, from

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full transparency to empower consumers to make more informed choices. TAG Heuer, IWC Schaffhausen, Louis Vuitton and Baume (recently incorporated into the Baume & Mercier portfolio) are among the few watch brands to be recognised as a “Luxury Brand to Trust” for successfully managing their “triple bottom line” involving profit, people, and planet.

Sustainability extends to culture, heritage, and society, and this is where Rolex shines, with one of our favourite projects. The 17-year-old Rolex Mentorship & Protégé Arts Initiative is a creative exchange programme that helps to ensure the world’s artistic heritage is passed on to future generations. In the same spirit, the Rolex Awards for Enterprise has been in existence since 1976, dedicated to projects in the fields of science and technology, and endangered ecosystems and species.

It also preserves culture and improves the living standards in developing countries.

Similarly, IWC has been a partner of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation since 2005, using sport to promote social change.

Last year, approximately 300 000 young people around the world benefitted from more than 200 projects supported by the foundation in 40 countries.

The Blancpain Ocean Commitment has, for several years, devoted substantial resources to oceanographic initiatives and

The BLANCPAIN Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition is dedicated to study of the great hammerhead shark in French Polynesia, with a percentage of the sales of these watches being added to the brand’s regular contributions to promoting, respecting, and protecting the fascinating world of the oceans.

partnerships with leading organisations, such as the Pristine Seas expeditions, Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa project, the World Ocean Initiative organised by The Economist, and the World Oceans Day, celebrated every year at the United Nations headquarters in New York. To date, the 19 expeditions have led to tangible results, notably contributing to doubling the surface of 11 marine protected areas around the world, with an addition of over 4-million square kilometres.

In line with Omega’s pledge to “make time for the planet”, the brand continues its support for conservation projects, including award-winning documentary films done in partnership with the GoodPlanet Foundation and its founder Yann ArthusBertrand, and the vital work of Nekton, a UK-registered not-for-profit research foundation that works in collaboration with the University of Oxford on the protection and management of the world’s oceans.

With the support of its “Surfers Squad” led by world champ surfer Kelly Slater, Breitling has an ongoing partnership with Ocean Conservancy, an organisation dedicated to maintaining healthy oceans and clean beaches in over 150 countries. In partnership with the surf legend’s sustainable clothing brand Outerknown, Breitling’s SuperOcean watches feature colourful satin Nato straps woven from Econyl yarn used in the manufacture of Outerknown apparel.

Econyl is virgin-quality nylon yarn made from waste such as fishing nets. It has the same quality as the regular nylon made from crude oil but is 100% made from waste, and therefore reduces the global warming impact of nylon by up to 80%.

IWC is also working with awardwinning surfboard designer Hayden Cox of Haydenshapes Surfboards, the inventor of patented upcycled, parabolic carbon-fibre frame surfboard technology FutureFlex, which will no doubt find its way into watch cases in the near future.

The OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition is powered by the Master Chronometer Calibre 8806. It features a laser ablated black ceramic dial with wave relief and a unidirectional rotating bezel in Grade 5 titanium with laser-ablated diving scale in positive relief. The watch is also certified to resist magnetic fields of 15 000 gauss.

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IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” Automatic 42mm. IWC has been a partner of the foundation since 2005, using sport to promote social change.

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual DateJust 41mm in Oystersteel and yellow gold with fluted bezel and champagne dial.

Given to Rolex Awards for Enterprise laureates as part of their prize.

Powered by the new generation Superlative Chronometer certified (COSC and Rolex certification after casing) in-house calibre 3235 selfwinding movement.

Alpine Eagle XL Chronograph two-tone in Lucent Steel A223 and ethical rose gold with a pitch-black dial and integrated bracelet.

Inside is the in-house CHOPARD 03.05-C automatic movement with flyback function.

BREITLING SuperOcean Heritage 57 Limited Edition Outerknown Econyl with Nato strap

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Let’s give props to the earth, as this year’s most luxurious fragrance botanicals create the ultimate love letter to nature text

Nokubonga Thusi Lisa Strachan

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Super natural

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NE WOULD SAY that we have seen and smelt just about all that the fragrance world has to offer, and everything currently on the market is just a reiteration of what was. But, if you are a firm believer that fragrance is emotive, personal, and has the ability to tell a story—then it’s safe to say that the fragrance world still has much to impart. Fragrance is a glimpse into our ideas of the current world, where we are in terms of technological advances, and how that culminates into the olfactory mood of the moment.

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We have abandoned the quest for a sense of blind luxury that ransacks precious resources without restoration, and it seems that the urgent call for climate change has brought on a newfound appreciation of nature and a luxury in living in a sustainable, ecologically balanced environment. As an indication of the times, the need for preservation, not only of self but that of the planet that we call home, underpins the olfactory narrative of today.

There is a desire to not only use the best that the earth has to offer but, at the same time, be conscious about sustainability within natural ingredients sourcing. Megan and Coen, perfumers of local natural fragrance brand Fettle & Frisson, always have sustainability at the core of their ingredients sourcing and perfumery. Fettle & Frisson scents are made with a palette of natural, organic, and wild-harvested plant-based distillations. The brand is conscious of the way in which its essences, oils, and extracts are produced and always favour renewable production practices with the least environmental impact. For example, Fettle & Frisson uses West Indian as opposed to the true East Indian sandalwood oil because the latter is an endangered forest species threatened by over-exploitation and degradation to habitat.

Marie Aoun, perfumer of local natural fragrance brand, Saint D’Ici, shares the same sentiments and prefers to not only apply sustainability to the way ingredients are sourced but also where they are sourced from in order to sustain African production. “As much as possible, I limit my sourcing to African ingredients that are ethically farmed. This is not always feasible, as some key ingredients are only available in other parts of the world. However, local sourcing remains the objective, so I’m always really happy when I can substitute with an African product, like the jasmine grandiflorum that I’ve recently sourced from an Egyptian supplier who has been farming and extracting this ingredient for more than 60 years,” Aoun says.

From left: CARTIER La Panthère EDT 75ml, R1 750; MONTBLANC Signature EDP 90ml, R1 499 BULGARI Man Glacial Essence EDP 100ml, R1 995

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ITALIAN ZEST

CALL OF THE OUTBACK

Citrus from Italy has been having a moment within the fragrance space, as fruit-bearing botanicals give way to the sparkling, invigorating quality in a juice. The Montblanc, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bulgari brands all made use of zesty Italian citruses combined with floral botanicals. Montblanc’s Signature mixes clementine with flowery magnolia and ylang-ylang. Bulgari’s Omnia Golden Citrine captures luminosity with Sicilian mandarin, ylang-ylang, and golden benzoin, while Dolce & Gabbana’s The Only One EDP Intense melds Italian mandarin with orange blossom and black vanilla.

Anything from Australia seems to be slowly gaining popularity not only in the skincare and makeup sectors but in fragrance too. The quietly tucked-away continent is a holiday destination on most travel bucket lists, and the quality of natural product lines from the Land Down Under are impressive too. Not one of the first places that you would think of when talking about luxury perfumery, Australia’s small but noteworthy industry boasts loved brands such as Goldfield & Banks, Grandiflora, and One Seed. Blame it on the scenic beaches, laidback Aussie surfer culture, or seemingly unspoilt natural terrains, but Australia, whether by inspiration or ingredient heritage, is holding its own in the perfumery game. French brand Berdoues Collection Grands Crus recently turned to Australian’s Bondi Beach as the inspiration for one of the scents in its Mix and Match Summer collection. With some of the world’s most beautiful beaches as the overall inspiration, Bondi Beach could not be left out of the equation. Described as “a salty, sunny perfume”, Berdoues Collection Grands Crus Bondi Beach boasts ingredients such as lemon from Italy, neroli from Tunisia, and bergamot from Calabria combined with vanilla create a lighter-than-air profile. Bulgari also makes use of Australian sandalwood, one of the country’s most popular fragrance ingredient exports, in its latest scent release, Bulgari Man Glacial Essence.

AN ODE TO NATURE We can’t deny that the world has become increasingly conscious of the footprint it leaves on the environment while producing some of our most luxurious products. Over the past years, the use of more natural, raw materials has been popular within fragrances, not only to showcase the various perfumery capitals’ indigenous offerings but to also ensure that these ingredients are protected through sustainable and ethical methods of sourcing. Local and international perfumers love the rich and animalic qualities that naturals—from labdanum and Bulgarian rose to ylang-ylang and a Japanese cypress called hinoki— can bring to a juice. Brands have gone one step further and have created scents that not only make use of naturals but create fragrances inspired by natural landscapes, seasons, and forces such as exotic beaches, natural gemstones, icy summits or dense, untouched forests. Bulgari’s Man Glacial Essence captures a blast of fresh, icy air from the peak of a snow-capped slope, employing the qualities of juniper berry, ginger, geranium, and Australian sandalwood.

THE GIFT OF NATURE There is luxury to having accessibility to rich natural ingredients over readily available synthetics when it comes to perfumery.

As brands turn to the use of natural compositions, the beauty lies in the handsourced, handcrafted nature of it all and the coming together of chemistry and botanicals to create a snapshot of a specific region or olfactory mood.

Acqua Di Parma, known for its use of Italian citrus as a signature to depict the fresh tranquillity of the Italian coastline, created the ultimate ode to nature with the launch of Colonia Futura. Creating an aromatic fougère, this fragrance juice is natural to its core, made up of 99% natural ingredients with notes of bergamot, grapefruit, pink pepper, clary sage, lavender, and vetiver.

With a name like Aventus, meaning from the wind, Creed takes inspiration from the natural force of wind and the pursuit of success by the modern man.

One would expect a predominant use of zesty notes to capture such airiness, but this fragrance’s rich, fruity scent profile is laden with juicy notes of blackcurrant leaves, apple, pineapple, and pink berries. Keeping to Creed’s refined and royal heritage of bespoke scents, Aventus is not left to wander in fruity frivolity but brought into elegance with woody notes of oak moss, birch, and patchouli. Added touches of vanilla, jasmine, and musk make for an unpredictable composition.

From left: ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Futura 100ml, R2 299; DOLCE & GABBANA The Only One EDP Intense 100ml, R2 600 CREED Aventus Creed For Him 100ml, R6 500; BERDOUES COLLECTION GRAND CRUS Bondi Beach 30ml, R595; MONTBLANC Legend EDP 100ml, R1 599

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Luxury watch manufacturers must rely on e-commerce, social-media campaigns that encourage virtual interaction, and goodwill to survive the impact of the coronavirus pandemic text

Debbie Hathway photography Supplied

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EAREND IS NEVER QUIET for maisons, marketers, and media immersed in the world of high watchmaking, yet it’s anybody’s guess what 2020 will bring.

Traditionally, watch manufacturers, retailers, clients, and niche media spend the holiday finalising arrangements to attend the Richemont-dominated January watch fair in Geneva, Switzerland. Since I first attended in 2008, it’s been a whirlwind of booth design, interview preparation and allocation, flight and accommodation reservations, brand-ambassador briefings, and media pack compilations.

A limited number of collectors, retailers and press are invited to the prestigious five-day affair, with one day reserved for the public.

When the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was in January, which is winter in Europe, we would arrive at the Palexpo venue in the dark to queue in freezing temperatures, often accompanied by snow, and wait for the doors to open. When we left at the end of a long and very busy day, it was already night time.

But that was then. The year 2020 was going to be different — but just how different nobody could ever have imagined. It began with the SIHH being renamed Watches & Wonders 2020 and rescheduled for April to coincide with Baselworld, the other major Swiss watch fair on the annual calendar.

We waited for the festive season to pass, so we could kickstart the above-mentioned routine. That was despite the World Health Organization picking up news of the “viral pneumonia” infection in Wuhan, China, in December 2019. France confirmed the first cases of the coronavirus for Europe in January 2020. By mid-March, most countries were in national lockdown with all forms of travel grinding to a halt. There would be no travelling to watch fairs for anybody this year.

Pierre Rainero, Cartier director of image, heritage, and style, was “very pleased” at the prospect of hosting visitors at Watches & Wonders 2020 as proposed for April instead of January. “I like the opportunity to meet with so many people from so many countries. It’s like a ritual, a good habit. I miss that,” he says.

“For you, too, it is a missed opportunity for touch and try.

Digital is a great help during this pandemic. We share the pictures, and we are quite proud of everything we have done to communicate, but still we all miss that exchange on the basis of actual creations.

“In spite of all the efforts made in conveying the right size, volumes, etcetera, there’s nothing like trying the watch on the wrist and looking at it from every angle,” Rainero says. “Dimension, the way we create our watches, and the way they are worn, is very important to us. It’s not an item like this, on a page. I look forward to next year.”

RESPONSIBLE MANUFACTURE IWC Schaffhausen CEO Chris Grainger-Herr reflects on the way this crisis is teaching us about the way we consume. “Our message in this context is that we’re making something responsibly, in the heart of Europe, preserving the skills, but it’s also something that can be repaired and will last forever. When it comes to watchmaking, it’s really all about how we think about the products we make, we buy, we have. How do we consume them? In a sense, I hope this will get us back to the core of luxury — products that are emotional, that make you feel good, and that you can enjoy for a long, long time.”

Davide Cerrato, MD of Montblanc’s watch business unit, believes, “This crisis we are going through will push again the real value of watches, pricing, affordability, and so on. Customers may want more affordable watches, because they have less money, or it might be cooler to have less bling-bling, a simpler, understated aesthetic. The crisis could also push demand for metal bracelets.

“Now, after years and years of other trends, steel is coming back. One reason could be more questions around responsible sourcing of exotic skins. Metal is the first substitute because it is versatile, you can swim with it, and wear it in an elegant situation or a sporty one.”

From left: Maillon de Cartier trio; H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph; Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers The Singing Birds

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GLOBAL LOCKDOWN While nobody has escaped this pandemic unscathed, the Chinese market is huge for those in the high watchmaking space, and the global lockdown was devastating news. Baselworld was eventually cancelled altogether, and Watches & Wonders 2020 launched online in April, albeit at short notice.

In an attempt to maintain some momentum, major luxury watch brands Breitling, Bulgari, Carl F. Bucherer, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk planned an independent event, called Geneva Watch Days 2020, over the original Watches & Wonders 2020 timeline, but that came to nought as measures to manage the effect of the coronavirus pandemic increased.

Rado was the first to pivot into the digital space, converting its planned Joburg event to launch this year’s novelties mid-March into a video presentation by the end of that month.

Breitling was next with a webcast mid-April, just before Watches & Wonders 2020

TICKING OVER The past few months have been challenging, forcing companies across all sectors to rethink their business models. At MB&F, this involved finding new ways to stay close to clients without being physically present. At the height of the pandemic, 24 of the company’s 27 points of sale at partners’ retail operations were closed.

Offering customers an e-commerce option was essential, but, as usual, the brand has done it slightly differently. Rather than featuring its entire collection, a selection of pieces is on offer, for limited periods, on rotation.

The LM101 MB&F x H. Moser was the first to launch under these conditions, and resulted in the first-

TURNOVER

launched, and the world of Zoom conferencing became our new normal.

But going online has its advantages, I discovered.

Although the interview slots for invited media were tightly controlled, there was a little more latitude than we used to have in Geneva without the pressure to compete for time and attention

with collectors keen to get their hands on a newly coveted piece.

While some of us conducted exclusive interviews or attended roundtable discussions with chief executives, the media corps ultimately had exclusive access to news, photographs, and video material for publication in print or online. Public access was enabled a few days later.

ever online sale of an MB&F wristwatch.

“The situation is unusual to say the least. Is it right to launch a new timepiece in this context?

Some will say no. Others will say yes, absolutely, life must go on.

We are fully aware — and directly impacted — by the magnitude of the Covid-19 crisis, but we’ve decided to make the best of it and forge ahead,” says MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser.

During lockdown, H. Moser & Cie reduced operations for its 65-member company by 50% at most. According to CEO Edouard Meylan, the independent Swiss watchmaking company creates high-margin, high-value products, selling on average 100 watches a month. Usually more. It has an

e-commerce site too, through which it sells all its new models, as well as select pre-owned pieces. This helps drive leads to retailers in the market.

By the time of my April interview,

Speculation continues about how the pandemic will change the way watches are traded worldwide, but the value of e-commerce can no longer be questioned.

Even Patek Philippe reportedly announced it would allow authorised retailers to sell its stock online for a “temporary period”.

Sales at online watch platform Hodinkee experienced a “very quiet few weeks” into March but then sold a $20 000 Blancpain at full price, and a vintage Daytona.

“If you pay us, that allows us to pay our distributors, who can pay their folks,” Hodinkee founder and CEO Benjamin Clymer told The New York Times. “There are a lot of things to criticise in luxury, but we need each other.”

So, while we hold our collective breath to see what happens next, we could adopt the hibernating pattern of bears in winter as recommended in a Bernstein report.

“Reduce your activity, and cut variable costs, but maintain your vital functions,” writes analyst Luca Solca.

the company had seen very good sales. “I never thought we would sell a $70 000 watch, but that was the first one we sold. That helps… a full-margin watch,” Meylan says.

From top: Parmigiani Tonda Metropolitaine; Parmigiani Tonda Metropolitaine; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer; Panerai Luminor Marina Goldtech

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Nature

JOURNAL

Some remarkable botanical artists and an exquisite location made this botanically inspired magazine possible

NIROX SCULPTURE PARK

THE BOTANICAL ARTIST Botanical artist Lisa Strachan allowed us to use her work to illustrate our exquisite fragrance pages.

Botanical illustration seems to be increasing in popularity. Why? We have a greater awareness of our surroundings than before and want to bring the outside in. A lot of people are looking for the plants on their property to be documented. Photographs don’t show scale and size. What drew you to botanical illustration? Trying to duplicate nature and all its nuances.

You also never know how long the specimen will last for, so it’s a race against time. Do you draw from the plant itself or from photographs?

Illustration has to be from live plant matter, as illustration has to be life size whenever possible — but there are exceptions. And photographs don’t show correct colour. Also, painting from photo makes illustration very flat and twodimensional. Are you working on a specific project at the moment?

I am but am not allowed to say yet. I generally illustrate new species or rare plants, and those appear when you least expect them and need to be documented. I’m also developing my own product range of soft furnishings that keeps me busy. Which plant or flower are you dying to draw? I get exposed to the most incredible specimens on a regular basis but am planning to attempt some insects soon.

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The wallpaper that inspired a shoot

EET JOH DEL, the artist behind the beautiful Cara Saven CS&CO wallpaper that we used as a backdrop for our watch shoot.

Nature is clearly your greatest inspiration. How do you explore nature and feed your passion? I go on hikes every week.

When I’m home in Cape Town, I hike around Table Mountain and walk in Newlands Forest. In winter, I like to visit some of the waterfalls. Most Sundays, I go snorkelling. Wherever I go, I collect little treasures for my natural history cabinet: skulls, shells, seeds — whatever catches my eye. I also grow quite a few plants. Orchids, Stapelia, Ceropegia, and fragrant plants are some of my favourites. I enjoy watching nature documentaries too, especially the BBC’s David Attenborough. What is your favourite spot in the world? Cannon Rocks in the Eastern Cape, where our family home is. We spend our holidays there. If you had to choose: sea or mountain? That is impossible! I live in Cape Town, so they are both a very big source of inspiration to me. The mountain for the flowers, hikes, exercise, meditation in the forests, foraging for pine rings, and the waterfalls. The sea for sundowners, sunset meditations, snorkelling with shoals of fish, and exploring the magical underwater world of the kelp forests. It’s all so full of wonder. Do you have a favourite plant? That would probably be the Angraecum sesquipedale, also known as Darwin’s orchid. And under water? A creature that stands out for me is Macropinna microstoma, also known as the transparent-head fish. It just seems so unreal, almost robotic, straight out of a science-fiction movie. What are you working on at the moment? Illustrations for an advertising campaign for a laptop brand, but I signed a non-disclosure agreement, so more than that I cannot say right now. And what’s next? 2021 is going to be a great year for a big solo exhibition. I would love to show my work in different cities as well, like Johannesburg and abroad. @joh_del CARA SAVEN OF CARA SAVEN WALL DESIGN says Joh Del’s work caught her eye because of its level of detail: “I also love his use of colour, which feels true to nature while at the same time being modern and contemporary.”

Saven believes our fascination with botanical imagery indicates a global craving to go back to basics: “Even if you are living in a small studio apartment, you know inherently that nature holds the answers to our human condition and where we find ourselves. Surrounding yourself with a wallpaper or print is a reminder of this.” carasaven.com

Nick van Renen

LISA STRACHAN

JOH DEL

nirox mages

Our 10-page BMW feature was shot on location at the beautiful Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind, north of Johannesburg. There is no more beautiful natural treasure on the Highveld to appreciate the wonders of nature. The exciting Nirox calendar of outdoor events will be relaunching soon, including a brilliant new restaurant. Visit wantedonline.co.za and regular Wanted magazine for updates. niroxarts.com

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Graff, one of the world’s leading fine-jewellery houses with a boutique on the Delaire Graff estate in Stellenbosch, has launched a new diamond collection called Threads. “Threads reflects the pace of our modern life. We are increasingly more active, seemingly always on the move. Connections are almost instantaneous,” says Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director at Graff. “Our design perspective was to explore the meaning of all those crossing points, each of which is meaningful in our lives.” Crafted from pavé-set, custom-cut diamonds, Threads consists of a lattice design of criss-crossing jewels. graff.com, delaire.co.za

The face of fine watch and jewellery shopping in the Mother City is about to be transformed with the recent opening of a new luxury, multi-brand concept store at the V&A Waterfront.

The Boutique Haute Horlogerie (BHH) showcases some of the world’s finest luxury watch and jewellery brands in a state-of-the-art, designed space. A private lounge offers discretion and a sense of understated luxury.

Look out for some of the world’s leading brands in luxury, high-end watch craftsmanship, and jewellery design, including Chopard, Ulysse Nardin, H. Moser & Cie, Parmigiani, Zenith, Dior Haute Couture, Hermès, Bulgari, Ebel, Messika, and Pomellato.

BHH V&A Waterfront, Cape Town 021 418 1889

TOPWATCH JOHAN DREYER of Topwatch with an expert’s guide to watch collecting What is the most important thing to remember when starting a watch collection?

Buy watches that you love, that are beautiful to you, and that you will enjoy wearing. Forget about moneymaking and loss of investment and return. It’s firstly a passion product.

What characteristics are most important: the look, the case, the movement, the design, or the history? They all carry similar value. We often see buyers who are stuck on history and pedigree, and then we have customers who like the look of a watch. The movement is key, particularly automatic movements with complications. That obviously emphasises the world of craftsmanship. With what watch brand should one kick-start a

collection? In no particular order of importance: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, F.P. Journe, and H. Moser & Cie are all lovely brands, and most or all of them are still privately owned.

When presented with options, should a collector always choose the more complicated watch?

Complications come at a price, so it’s not always possible. Complications are also often not related to sports design watches. Typically, they are dressier, with precious metals and materials, so I would not say it is collector prone. Longevity is something to keep in mind. Is there a particular material that a collector should prioritise? Stainless steel carries most preference worldwide. A stainlesssteel Daytona is more expensive than

a full-gold Daytona. That’s because of the hard-wearing nature of stainless steel. These watches don’t damage or scratch as easily. It’s perceived as a material that lasts much longer.

What are the mistakes to avoid when collecting watches? Things that relate to fashion fads — chasing after colours that might not stand the test of time, for instance. Also be very sure whom you are buying from, and look at the pedigree and history of a watch, and run the serial numbers.

Stick to reputable dealers and sales people who could have access to the internals of the watch. A backed warranty is very important. What are your top three watches?

RM35-02 NTPT by Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Lebron James, and

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Miami.

I have a fabulous collection of valuable and limited-edition watches. Should I wear them or lock them in a safe? Always wear your watches. They are made to be enjoyed, looked at, and appreciated.

A watch in a safe is nothing better than gold, diamonds, and art. One of the key factors of watches is that they can be enjoyed. topwatch.co.za

LUXURY NOTEBOOK LUXURY NOTEBOOK

WJL EDITION 2020

SWATCH

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Swatch has relaunched its original collection from 1983, as a contemporary interpretation of the iconic design, this time replacing all materials with bio-sourced ones and innovative new technologies. The Swatch “1983” collection uses bio-sourced materials made from the seed of the castor plant.

All packaging is also biodegradable.

THE MACALLAN THE MACALLAN RARE CASK BATCH NO. 1

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NIQUE ACCESS to the most extensive range of cooperages in Spain gives the team at Macallan some of the finest casks to choose from to create Rare Cask, resulting in a diversity in the finished whisky unlike any other Macallan expression.

Crafted to showcase complexity and depth, The Macallan Rare Cask is drawn from the broadest spectrum of casks used in maturation on The Macallan Estate.

Hand-picked by the estate’s whisky-making team, the combination of sherry-seasoned American and European oak casks — a high proportion of them first-fill — deliver an exquisite and unmistakably woody whisky with a rich hue. themacallan.com

SCOIN Rael Demby of the South African Gold Coin Exchange and Scoin Shop on the pieces he will be adding to his collection this year

THE JAMES BOND COIN: “This is an outstanding coin, celebrating so much history. Omega has also released a new watch to celebrate the new James Bond movie. In many ways, coins are like watches — celebrating history and fine craftsmanship,” Demby says. The limited-edition, three-coin series from The Royal Mint includes the iconic Bond imagery of an Aston Martin, submarine, and tuxedo, and when placed together the three coins cleverly reveal the 007 configuration.

THE ELTON JOHN COIN: “Only 1 100 are going to be made, and we received an allocation of 30 for South Africa. There is nothing more exciting than buying a limited edition and knowing that not many other people are going to have one.”

In celebrating one of Britain’s most loved musical performers as he celebrates the final tour of his career, The Royal Mint is adding to a contemporary series called Music Legends. Demby says he is proud to be the only South African coin dealer with an exclusive agency for coins from The Royal Mint: “We have a special relationship with The Royal Mint and can source coins from their collections for our clients.”

A MUSEUM MASTERPIECES GOLD COIN CRAFTED BY

THE MONNAIE DE PARIS: This collection of unique square coins highlights major works exhibited in France each year. Monnaie de Paris is France’s longest-standing institution and strikes the euro coins in circulation for France, as well as coins for other foreign currencies. Although unusual in shape, the Museum Masterpieces remain coins because they have a face value. The collection features a self portrait by Van Gogh, The Wave by Hokusai, and Guernica by Picasso.

The square shape is reminiscent of an actual framed artwork.

Demby says: “Most art collectors can’t add a Van Gogh, Hokusai, or Picasso to their collections, but they can own a mini-masterpiece with any one of the Museum Masterpieces gold coins.”

These are the coins Demby wishes he had bought: • A ZAR: “We currently have some of this old South African currency. One is an 1892 Fine Beard — it is so rare, the value is R1-million, even though it only has a gold content worth R10 000.”

• A 1980 proof set. Only 60 were made.

• A 1992 proof set of South African coins. These were the only proofs made with no Kruger bullion — they are scarce. scoinshop.com

WJL EDITION 2020

ELLERMAN HOUSE

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South African has its very own art hotel in Cape Town. Ellerman House is the go-to urban retreat for luxury travellers wanting exclusivity and privacy in Cape Town. Located in Bantry Bay, the hotel offers spectacular Atlantic Ocean views and easy access to beaches and local attractions. Amenities include the Ellerman House wine gallery and a vast collection of South African vintage wines, modern, locally inspired cuisine, and generously hearted hospitality. But one of the biggest attractions has become Ellerman House’s quite incredible collection of South African art. Almost 1 000 works are exhibited throughout the boutique hotel and make for a unique, gallery-like hotel experience. ellerman.co.za

SANLAM Partnering with art and excellence Sanlam Private Wealth has partnered with some of South Africa’s leading artists and craftspeople to explore the meeting point between wealth and art

Sanlam Private Wealth has partnered with some of South Africa’s leading artists and craftspeople to explore the meeting point between wealth and art.

The most recent collaboration is with master ceramicist Andile Dyalvane, who has created a signature piece for Sanlam Private Wealth to perfectly capture its ethos of inspiration and excellence in perpetuity.

In the striking white vessel with blue accents, the line represents the journey that wealth managers undertake when crafting dynamic and lasting wealth for generations to come — and the respect they hold for the trust their clients bestow upon them.

Dyalvane says he starts every project with a line — a simple line that connects him to the past, celebrates the present, and reminds him of his responsibility to leave a legacy for the next generation. This signature line represents gratitude — “camagu” in isiXhosa.

The infinite lineage conveys the continuation of connectivity. As Dyalvane himself notes, “The pattern and rhythm, the controlled chaos, depicting the mastery of doing something again and again.” imisoceramics.co.za sanlamprivatewealth.sanlam.com

BREITLING Three remarkable women have been selected as the faces of the new Breitling Chronomat for Women as they have not only mastered the art of shining in the spotlight but are also shining their light on others, and inspiring change in the world.

Breitling CEO Georges Kern says: “Charlize Theron, Misty Copeland, and Yao Chen turn the spotlight on major global causes as they redefine what it means to be a strong woman.

Three leading stars known for being fierce and pushing boundaries. What binds them together is the Spotlight Squad and Breitling’s dedication to change, diversity, and reshaping the world we live in.” breitling.com

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COMPETITION

WJL EDITION 2020

IN SAFE HANDS Buying a piece of precious jewellery is a big decision. It’s important to know that, no matter how big or small the item is, what you are buying is the real thing, and that it has been manufactured to the highest standards. You also deserve excellent service and the confidence that you will be able to revert to the jeweller if you have any concerns.

It’s essential, therefore, that you always buy your jewellery from a reputable jeweller. Members of the Jewellery Council of South Africa abide by a code of ethics and conduct, which means that you can always buy with confidence from an accredited Jewellery Council member.

For a list of jewellers in your area, visit jewellery.org.za, email admin@jewellery.org.za, or call 011 484 5528.

WIN

THIS EXQUISITE DIAMOND RING WITH NINE BAGUETTECUT DIAMONDS TOTALLING 0.6CT IN 9KT ROSE GOLD

WORTH

R20 000 TO ENTER: SMS the keywords “Jewellery Council”, together with your answer to the question, your full name, and email address to 33279 (SMS costs R1.50) QUESTION: How many baguette-cut diamonds are there in the ring to be won?

CLOSING DATE: 31 January 2021 TERMS & CONDITIONS: SMSes charged at R1.50 each. Errors billed. The competition starts at 8am on 1 December 2020 and ends at 8am on 31 January 2021. The prize must be taken up (or rejected) as awarded and cannot be transferred to any other person, sold, or converted to cash. The competition is open to all residents of South Africa over 18 years of age, except employees of Arena Holdings or The Jewellery Council of South Africa. Your contact details will be kept private and not used for any marketing purposes.

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

World class bubbly — on our doorstep

It’s time to celebrate the fact that a museum class Cap Classique from Boschendal wine estate near the Franschhoek valley took top honours at the international Amorim Cap Classique Challenge last year

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Museum class represents wines of eight years or older and until 2019 they had not been eligible for the overall winner accolade.

The Boschendal Jean Le Long Prestige Cuvée — a Cap Classique that takes 60 months to reach its renowned complexity and finesse — not only impressed judges at the Amorim Cap Classique Challenge, it also got 95 points in award-winning British wine writer Tim Atkin’s annual report as well a four-star, 93-point rating at the Platter Wine Awards.

Jean Le Long is a unique bubbly in that it is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes sourced from high-altitude, cool-climate vineyards. The wine spends 60 months on the lees in bottle, and another 72 months on the cork.

“Making a memorable Cap Classique has been an enduring passion for me,” says Danielle Jacobs, Cap Classique winemaker at Boschendal. “We are all extremely proud of such great acclaim by Amorim for two years in a row.”

The Jean Le Long is Cap Classique wine recognised for the zest of ripe grapefruit, which perfectly balances with toasty brioche aromas.

Danielle Jacobs adds: “Our Chardonnay grapes are grown in high altitudes, so it can thrive in the cooler climate. Our pre-dawn harvest certainly feels worthwhile when Amorim recognises its crispness. And with its alluring golden colouring, the enticing mineral finish of the Cap Classique pairs well with rich seafoods and aged cheeses.” boschendalwines.com

STOCKISTS Blancpain blancpain.com available at Elegance Jewellers ejewels.co.za 011 784 0047 Tanur Collection 021 418 5524 BMW bmw.co.za 0800 600 555 Boschendal boschendalwines.com 021 870 4200 Breguet breguet.com available at Elegance Jewellers ejewels.co.za 011 684 1380 Tanur Collection 021 418 5524 Bulgari high jewellery, watches & accessories available at Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 Bulgari Boutique Sandton City 011 883 1325 Cartier Cartier Boutique Shop U13, Diamond Walk, Sandton City, 12 Alice Lane, 2146 Charles Greig charlesgreig.co.za 011 325 4477/021 418 4515

Chopard available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

Montblanc available at selected Woolworths stores woolworths.co.za

Sanlam Private Wealth 021 950 2770 info@privatewealth.sanlam.co.za

Omega omegawatches.com 011 911 1200

Shemer shemer.co.za 011 622 4735

Creed Skins Cosmetics skins.co.za

Panerai available at Charles Greig charlesgreig.co.za 011 325 4477/021 418 4515

H. Moser & Cie available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 IWC available at Elegance Jewellers Sandton & Melrose 011 784 0012 Charles Greig Jewellers V&A Waterfront 021 418 4515 Arthur Kaplan Gateway 031 566 6741 Longines available at Arthur Kaplan arthurkaplan.co.za 011 669 5600 Mervis Brothers Jewellers mervisjewellers.co.za 011 616 7504 Messika available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

Parmigiani available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Patek Philippe 011 784 2595 patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com

TAG Heuer available at Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 TAG Heuer Boutiques Sandton City 011 784 7422 V&A Waterfront 021 421 8539 The Scoin Shop scoinshop.co.za 067 008 3784/ 011 784 8551 Topwatch pre-owned luxury watch website topwatch.co.za 021 872 0332 Tudor tudorwatch.com 011 784 9230

Pomellato available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

Ulysse Nardin available at Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

Rado rado.com 011 911 1200

Zenith available at Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

Rolex rolex.com 011 784 9230

All prices correct at time of going to press

Acqua di Parma available at selected Woolworths stores woolworths.co.za

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THE LAST WORD

WJL EDITION 2020

IT’S IN HIS NATURE

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Everard Read gallery owner Mark Read

This year, Wanted Watches, Jewellery, and Luxury comes courtesy of a partnership with the Everard Read Gallery in Johannesburg. We spoke to Mark Read, chairman of the Everard Read group of galleries and also a passionate botanist and conservationist COMING UP AT EVERARD READ December 2020 SUMMER SHOW Online only

ARK READ IS SO MUCH more than a gallerist. As chairman of the Everard Read group of galleries, which was founded more than 100 years ago, he is one of the most influential figures in the art community in South Africa.

But that’s not where the influence ends — in fact, it might be more accurate to say Read is a naturalist with an interest in art.

As deputy chairperson of the WWF South Africa Board, a founding trustee of The Rhino and Elephant Foundation, a co-founder of the Palaeontological Scientific Trust, and a founding partner of the Great Plains Conservation Tourism Company — it is Read’s passion for all things natural that piqued our interest for this nature-inspired edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery, and Luxury.

Read’s obsession with the life of plants goes back more than 30 years, and some say he has become something of a “human Google” on all things botanical. He possesses an extraordinary collection of botanical reference books, and is regularly called on for assistance in identifying plants and wildlife.

“I’m equally interested in frogs, snakes, and fossils — and my new obsession is dragonflies.

“But plants are by far the most complex: the trophic levels [we also had to look it up — it means the position something occupies in a food web] are endless.”

Read jokes that he wishes his plant obsession had never happened.

“We get out of a plane on a landing strip in Mozambique, and I’ll be on the tarmac inspecting a plant growing in the cracks while everyone else waits for me.”

In fact, in the tradition of those natural explorers of old, Read recently identified a species of tree near Phalaborwa that had

never been seen in this area before. He quickly rattles off the botanical name for the ordeal tree (Erythrophleum lasianthum) as well as the traditional meaning traditional healers associate with its use — a veritable walking botanical encyclopaedia.

Read and his wife, Christine, own a farm in the Cradle of Humankind outside of Johannesburg. Here, he goes for a two-hour walk every day and finds peculiar pleasure in the regular burning of the veld there.

“To keep that type of vegetation, Bankenveld, biologically diverse, it needs to burn, otherwise it becomes moribund.”

Read boasts 700 species of plant on his farm — 140 of which are grasses.

Read says he is a permanent student of botany, and the reference books in his library are well-read by him, over and over again.

The Everard Read stable boasts several remarkable botanical artists, including Leigh Voigt, Nic Bladen, and Gillian Condy.

While Everard Read was, for much of its existence, regarded as one of Johannesburg’s blue-chip galleries, featuring mostly classical artwork by local and international artists, it has definitely shifted in recent years to become more contemporary in focus.

“We are now committed to contemporary art — that’s where the excitement is,” Read says.

“At our core, there is a deep and profound love for something that celebrates life and the beauty of the planet. But, more and more, emerging young artists are looking at natural resources with deep alarm.”

Read maintains a serious respect for those artists who can deal with a natural subject in an intelligent fashion. “It is a rare talent, and it is never going to be politically correct or part of the now. But it is a subject that requires quiet introspection, because there is no quick fix.”

SOME OF EVERARD READ’S BOTANICAL ARTISTS:

Gillian Condy Protea Caffra

February 2021 BRETT MURRAY AND GILLIAN CONDY March 2021 DANIEL NAUDÉ

Nic Bladen Leigh Voigt

Old Boscia Albitrunca 3, 2020, oil on canvas 100 x 120 cm

Rapanea Melanophloeos (Cape Beech Tree), 2020, bronze 118 x 80 x 70 cm

BREGUET.COM

TRADITION 7038