Wanted 2021/22 Watches, Jewellery and Luxury annual edition

wanted WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

e l b a t t e g r o f Un

TUDOR

Black Bay Fifty-Eight

W W J L / 2 0 21

WJL EDITION 2021/22

CONTENTS

50

14

82

TREND REPORT Beads, bold shapes, and more

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY EDITOR Ingrid Wood PROJECT MANAGER Matthew McClure GM LUXURY Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 shaffy@arena.africa ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Yvette Mehl 021 439 4907 yvette@yvonneshaff.co.za ART DIRECTOR Kate Walters COPY EDITOR Joey Kok FINAL EYE Jennifer Snyman CONTRIBUTORS Gary Cotterell, Malcolm Dare, Judd van Rensburg, Debbie Hathway, Sinead Martin, Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly, Matthew McClure, Lauren Nicoll, Sahil Harilal BUSINESS DAY EDITOR Lukanyo Mnyanda WANTED EDITOR Siphiwe Mpye HEAD ADVERTISING SALES PRINT AND DIGITAL Eben Gewers CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Andrew Gill WANTED is available with Business Day nationwide. Subscription enquiries: 086 052 5200 PRINTED by Novus Print for Arena Holdings, Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads) Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193

22

THE FINEST HOUR Timekeeping treasures

52

THE JOY OF JEWELS A glittering dose of glamour

70

RECLAIM YOUR MAGIC Timekeeping trends

78

THE DIGITAL DIMENSION e-Commerce and luxe watches

84

WORKS OF ART Gem-setting: beyond a craft

70

87

WATCHMAKING WONDERS Watches & Wonders report

92

MAKING MEMORIES Fragrant footsteps

95

LUXURY JOURNAL A digest of splendour

102

WIN A pendant worth R25 000

103

STOCKISTS Find your favourite piece

104

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

BREGUET

wanted Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365

TUDOR

Black Bay Fifty-Eight

BVLGARI

Serpenti

2021/22

2021/22

OUR COVERS

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

wanted

wanted able gett r o f Un

2021/22

10

87

14

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

Tribal Collection

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

IMAGE SUPPLIED

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

Submersible eLAB-ID, made from 98% recycled material by weight, PANERAI, POR

GRAFF

2021/22

2021/22

2021/22

wanted

wanted

Submersible eLAB-ID

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

Sixième Sens Par Cartier Collection Pixelage necklace, CARTIER, POR IMAGE SUPPLIED

PANERAI

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

wanted

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

CARTIER

Sixième Sens Par Cartier Collection Pixelage

R59.90 (VAT INCL) SA

00

92

THE LAST WORD The sky’s the limit

WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 2 1 / 2 2

Tribal Collection earrings and necklace with yellow and white diamonds in yellow and white gold, GRAFF, POR

Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365 (35 individually numbered pieces), BREGUET, POR

Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm with 18kt yellow gold case and brown alligator strap, TUDOR, R285 050

IMAGE SUPPLIED

IMAGE SUPPLIED

IMAGE SUPPLIED

Serpenti earrings and necklace with pavé-set diamonds in rose gold, BVLGARI, POR PHOTOGRAPHY JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLIST SAHIL HARILAL MODEL IMAN MOHIDIN/BOSS MODELS MAKE-UP LESLEY WHITBY/ LAMPOST HAIR SAADIQUE RYKLIEF/LAMPOST

ED’S LETTER

W W J L / 2 0 21

E DITOR’S PICKS

CONSCIOUS As I dream of travelling again I am enveloping myself in a scent that will conjure up that island breeze. Versace Dylan Turquoise is the ideal holiday fragrance

Keeping conscious luxury in mind, I chose to wear a pre-loved dress from Wizards Vintage, a treasure of a store in Jozi, filled with gently worn and vintage designer labels

LUXURY encompasses the notions of ethics, sustainability and consciousness.

The brands featured in this special edition sum up these virtues. They continue to demonstrate a commitment to the non-negotiable basics of quality, uniqueness, unparalleled service, craftsmanship, and tradition.

They proudly celebrate beautiful experiences and intricate works of art. And, in keeping with the premise that enabling economic growth doesn’t have to come at the cost of the planet, they have incorporated sustainable sourcing and practices into their businesses.

In this 2021/2 edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery, and Luxury, we celebrate the brands that allow us to treat

The masterstroke of the 2021 Longines Master Collection was fitting the moonphase complication into a 34mm case.

This magnificent model has a white mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers Glamorous yet beautifully simple, these turquoise Creole earrings from the Kate Moss for Messika Color Play Collection are on my wish list

ourselves while keeping the planet in mind and honouring their unfailing dedication to heritage, quality, legacy and value. It’s the era of conscious luxury.

12

This high-jewellery collection brings together diamonds and the romance of stories passed down through generations

OMEGA has released the Beijing 2022 Seamaster Aqua Terra to mark being the official timekeeper at the Winter Olympics. It sports a white ceramic dial and the Beijing 2022 emblem on the caseback

Ingrid

wantedonline.co.za GRAFF TRIBAL’S POWERFUL STORY OF ETERNAL BEAUTY

IMAGES SUPPLIED, MANELISI DABATA HAIR TANAZ MAKE-UP CHANEL DRESS MATTHEW WILLIAMSON @ WIZARDS VINTAGE 082 874 7621

T

HE LAST TWO years have thrown a few curveballs our way. And while life appears to be getting back to normal, there has been a definite shift in our outlook, as we have been reassessing our values and priorities. As I was contemplating a fitting theme for this issue, the question of what luxury means in a postpandemic world kept creeping into my thoughts.

The symbolic value of luxury hasn’t changed. It is something of impeccable craftsmanship, of premium quality, and of lasting value. Something of a rarity. But luxury also goes way beyond aesthetics and monetary value. It is a memorable or beautiful experience. It’s about abundance — of happiness, love, and health. And it

WantedOnlineSA

THE HOUR OF GARDENING WITH RADO AND GREAT GARDENS OF THE WORLD “Chapter 1” is part of Rado’s new water-resistant collection

WantedOnlineSA

WantedOnlineSA

F O R M O R E THAN A D E CAD E, Business Day Wa n t e d h a s b e e n a l e a d i n g l i g h t i n t h e g l o s s y magazine-supplement industry in South Africa and is now firmly established as the destination o f c h o i c e f o r l u x u r y b r a n d s . We ’ v e s o a r e d t o heights others haven’t because we religiously follow the latest local and international lifestyle news and bring it to our loyal readers on a monthly basis, come rain or shine. While we’re sure you love the feel of these glossy pages under your fingers, our digital presence has also become a beacon of style with its own d e d i c a t e d a u d i e n c e . Fo l l o w u s o n w a n t e d o n l i n e to get a dose of the latest news and developments in the glitzy, glamorous world of fine watches and jewellery on tap, at the click of a mouse, any time of the day or night.

UPFRONT

W W J L / 2 0 21

3.

1.

2.

4.

5.

BEJEWELLED Who doesn’t love a little bling, be it fine jewels or a sparkly timepiece?

Here are some showstoppers to add to your wish list 6.

8.

11.

7.

9.

1. Fope necklace with 0.60ct diamonds in 18kt gold, R200 000 2. Piaget Polo Skeleton with diamonds, POR 3. Cindy Bruna for Messika by Kate Moss – Colour Play 4. Graff Abstract Collection watch with 13.58ct diamonds, POR 5. Blancpain Ladybird Colors 34.9mm with mother-of-pearl, sapphire, and 2.21ct diamonds in red gold, R439 700 6. OMEGA Seamaster Ladies Aqua Terra Co-axial Master Chronometer 34mm, R294 000 7. Shemer Moraglione Madame Butterfly bracelet with white diamonds, rubies, and duplet stone rock crystal in 18kt rose gold, R174 400 8. Fope ring with 0.68ct diamonds in 18kt gold, R118 000 9. Messika by Kate Moss bracelet with malachite and pear-cut diamonds, POR 10. Dolce&Gabbana Iris with sapphire and pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R375 000 11. Pomellato Nudo rings, starting from R34 000

IMAGES SUPPLIED

14

10.

UPFRONT

W W J L / 2 0 21

1.

2.

3.

4.

SHIFTERS It’s an ever-changing world out there, and the need for newness never ends. Unusual shapes, innovative materials, and advanced tech continue to keep us enthralled

SHAPE 16

8.

6.

7.

1. Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44mm, R150 700 2. Hublot Big Bang Integral 42mm, R495 000 3. Panerai Radiomir Minute Repeater Tourbillon GMT 49mm, R6 400 000 4. Rado True Square Blue Over the Abyss, R48 800 5. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36,5mm in 18kt white gold, R510 000 6. Omega Aqua Terra Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 41mm, R169 000 7. Dior with diamonds and decorative stones in 18kt yellow gold, POR 8. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, R1 026 000 9. IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm, R94 000

IMAGES SUPPLIED

9.

5.

UPFRONT

W W J L / 2 0 21

1.

B R I L L I A N T LY 8.

7.

2.

6.

3.

Make a statement with a single luxe piece that demands attention — be it through colour, adornment, size, or attitude

BOLD 4.

1. Chanel Cat Eye Sunglasses, R7980 2. Dolce&Gabbana Sofia with mother-of-pearl, sapphire, and diamonds in steel, R37 000 3. Breitling Superocean Heritage Pastel Collection, POR 4. Cartier Sixième Sens Parhelia ring with 21.51ct cabochon-cut sapphire, diamonds, and emeralds, POR 5. Blancpain Ladybird Colors 34.9mm with 2.21ct diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and sapphire in white gold, R439 700 6. Messika My Move cuff with diamonds and tangerine leather, R81 800 7. Hermès Arceau Wild Singapore 41mm in white gold, POR 8. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 40mm with sapphire in steel, R183 600

IMAGES SUPPLIED

18

5.

F O R F U RT H E R I N F O R M AT I O N C A L L 0 1 1 6 6 9 0 5 0 0

UPFRONT

W W J L / 2 0 21

1.

BEADS, BEAUTIFUL BEADS!

2.

3.

4.

20

B 1. Multiple-strand necklace with lapis lazuli, carnelian, almond-shaped, briolette-cut citrines, and yellow gold, made to order 2. Nine-strand necklace with citrine, amethyst, acid-green quartz, peridot, prasiolite, turquoise, and carnelian, R35 000 3. Double-row necklace with prasiolite, rose quartz, amethyst, citrine, smoky and lemon quartz, and rose gold, made to order 4. Forty-strand necklace with cognac, black, and yellow diamonds, facetted black spinel, smoky quartz, citrine, and yellow gold, R130 000 All Charles Greig

eads have undoubtedly made a comeback, adding a dose of energy, lightness, and optimism to fashion. We’re not talking just any beaded jewellery, however — our eyes are focused on the highly customised pieces crafted from gemstones that are carefully selected to create beautiful, wearable works of art. For these pieces, you need to know that the stones are authentic and high quality.

Gerald Leuchtenberger of Charles Greig travels the world in search of unique and quality gemstones, the mix of which ultimately determines the piece. “We source our beads from different places. Most recently, I travelled to India where there are families that specialise in specific gems. Each gem is hand-polished, so there is no uniformity in the beads — that is the beauty of these necklaces.”

For a necklace such as the 40-strand one pictured left, it takes about three weeks to hand-thread the specially sourced silk strands through the beads. By adding a knot between each bead, the necklace is able to move and drape softly like a scarf — another exceptional skill that shows off the depth and complexity of the stones.

The Streamliner

by H. Moser & Cie.

Available exclusively at:

22

HOUR

TH E F I N E ST

W W J L / 2 0 21

TAG HEUER Autavia Calibre 5 Chronometer R57 000

RADO Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic R66 900

W W J L / 2 0 21

As the world resets, and relevance and meaning come to the fore, we celebrate brands with purpose and honour their unfailing dedication to heritage, quality, and design. These timepieces capture the essence of innovation in the craft of watchmaking

TAG HEUER Formula 1 Quartz Chronograph 43mm R34 500

LONGINES Legend Diver Watch R37 800

23

PHOTOGRAPHY MALCOLM DARE PRODUCTION SINEAD MARTIN WALLPAPER ST LEGER & VINEY

24

W W J L / 2 0 21

BREGUET Tradition R427 500

PATEK PHILIPPE Men’s Perpetual Calendar POR

IWC PILOT. ENGINEERED FOR ORIGINALS.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Ref. 3881:

tures the in-house 69385 calibre and is incredibly

More than 80 years’ experience in the manufacture

versatile. Thanks to the integrated EasX-CHANGE ®

of precise, rugged instruments for pilots are distilled

system, the strap can be replaced at the touch

in this watch from IWC. Housed in an ergonomic

of a button, making it the perfect companion for

41-millimetre case with a see-through glass back

any adventure. And not only those in the cockpit.

and water-resistance to 10 bar, the chronograph fea-

IWC . ENGINEERING DRE AMS . SINCE 1868 .

IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland · www.iwc.com

DOWN LOAD TH E N E W IWC APP FO R VI RTUAL TRY- O N

IWC-manufactured 69385 calibre · Day & Date display · Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds · See-through sapphire-glass back · Water-resistant 10 bar · Diameter 41 mm · Stainless steel

26

W W J L / 2 0 21

BLANCPAIN Ultraplate R324 000 PARMIGIANI Toric Hemispheres Retrograd R535 000

XPLORE

N 40° 45’ 31’’ W 73° 58’ 43’’

W E

A R E

U L Y S S E

B H H B O U T I Q U E V & A W A T E R F R O N T C A P E T O W N +27 21 418 1889 B H H B O U T I Q U E H Y D E P A R K C O R N E R J O H A N N E S B U R G +27 11 325 4119 For further information contact Architects of Time +27 11 669 0790 www.bhhboutique.co.za

28

W W J L / 2 0 21

HUBLOT Classic Fusion King Gold 45mm R429 999 BVLGARI Bvlgari 33mm R167 000

30

W W J L / 2 0 21

Clockwise from left

ROLEX Yacht-Master 42 R1 537 500 ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona R1 692 500 PATEK PHILIPPE Ladies’ Aquanaut Luce POR

HUBLOT Spirit Of Big Bang 39mm R345 000 OMEGA Deville Tresor Master Chronometer R238 000

JAEGER LECOULTRE Rendezvous Classic Night & Day R267 000

31

W W J L / 2 0 21

32

W W J L / 2 0 21

TUDOR Black Bay Chrono R88 250

BLANCPAIN Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback R246 900

Elegance is an attitude Regé-Jean Page

The Longines Master Collection

34

W W J L / 2 0 21

TAG HEUER Carrera Tourbillon limited edition R375 000 ULYSSE NARDIN Blast Skeleton X 42mm R333 000

BREITLING Navitimer Automatic 41 R107 100

TAG HEUER BOUTIQUES ��������������������������Ŝ����������������������������� ������������������������������������������������

36

W W J L / 2 0 21

CARTIER Santos Chronograph extra-large R228 000 OMEGA Seamaster 300 Master Chronometer R215 000 TUDOR Black Bay Fifty-Eight R285 050 BVLGARI Serpenti Seduttori R550 995

38

W W J L / 2 0 21

LONGINES Spirit R35 100 FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Vintage Rally Healey Automatic R28 995 RADO True Square Automatic R37 900

RADO.COM

MASTER OF MATERIALS

DISCOVER AND FEEL THE RADO HIGH-TECH CERAMIC DIFFERENCE!

FEEL IT CAPTAIN COOK HIGH-TECH CERAMIC

40

W W J L / 2 0 21

From left: DIOR La D De Dior Satine 25mm R136 000 DIOR La D De Dior Satine 25mm R156 000 CHOPARD Happy Sport The First Automatic 33mm R321 500

DOLCE & GABBANA 34mm R202 000

BREITLING Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea R163 200 CHOPARD Happy Sport 29 X 31mm R416 300

41

W W J L / 2 0 21

42

W W J L / 2 0 21

OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300 Master Chronometer R211 000

ULYSSE NARDIN Marine Diver Blue Shark limited edition R122 400

WORLD PREMIÈRE S L I M L I N E M O N O L I T H I C M A N U FAC T U R E 4 0 H Z - 2 8 8 ’ 0 0 0 B E AT S / H O U R - 8 0 H R P O W E R R E S E R V E 100% ANTI-MAGNE TIC For further information contact Picot & Moss (011) 669-0500. picotandmoss.co.za frederiqueconstant.com

44

W W J L / 2 0 21

BREITLING Endurance Pro R57 900

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 R143 000

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 R159 000 ZENITH El Primero Chronomaster 42mm R190 000 CARTIER Pasha 41mm R446 000

45

W W J L / 2 0 21

ROLEX Yacht-Master II R398 900

PRODUCTION SINEAD MARTIN WALLPAPER ST LEGER

46

W W J L / 2 0 21

C O L L A B O R AT I O N

THE FUTURE IS NOW The world is going electric — and BMW is leading the way with new models that promise electric driving pleasure TEXT MIKE CONRAD IMAGES SUPPLIED

Electrification is the future of motoring and, in many ways, the future of our planet, and BMW has been at the forefront of the technology for nearly 50 years. BMW revealed its first electric car in 1972 in the form of the 1602 Elektro-Antrieb. It had a 32kW electric motor and a range of up to 60km, which was perfect for its use as a VIP shuttle at the prestigious Munich Olympic Games.

The race to electrify had begun, and BMW was already in the lead.

Since then, BMW has produced many more concepts and prototypes.

Then, in 2011, it became one of the biggest innovators in the world of electric

mobility when it created a division dedicated to electrification. BMW i was formed, and with it came the launch of the revolutionary i3 and i8 models.

The i3 not only showcased BMW’s expertise in electrification but also its creativity in sustainability, with materials that can be easily recycled; many materials were given a second life in the i3.

The i8 is equally as innovative, but more than that, it is a head-turner, a true supercar that delivers electrified performance.

Both were an instant success, and BMW had set the stage for an exciting, electrified future. Today, drivers can choose between petrol, diesel, hybrid, and pure

electric, and BMW has a solution to suit everyone. As the world moves more to electric, BMW’s decades of experience — including the success of BMW i over the past 10 years — ensures that it will continue to offer the best in terms of efficiency, sustainability, design, and, of course, performance.

Now the time has come for BMW to to give you an even more electrifying experience: more models, more range, more luxury, and more smart connectivity, as it expands its range of electric vehicles (EVs) to suit not just the market of today but that of tomorrow as the world speeds up its move to electric.

47

Performance with a conscience

48

Spearheading this will be the flagship BMW iX, a sports activity vehicle (SAV) that features unique design inside and out.

This trend-setting EV will arrive in South Africa early in 2022 as the pinnacle of a range that will also include the sensual and dynamic i4 four-door coupé and the iX3, the internationally built electric version of the X3 that is proudly manufactured in SA at BMW’s Rosslyn plant.

The iX has been designed from the inside out, with a focus on well-being and comfort of the occupants. EVs have fewer components, and with batteries easily placed beneath the floor, there is more cabin space with increased legroom and storage, and a feeling of being in a loungelike environment. The exterior design is futuristic and practical, created to convey a minimalist look that portrays confidence and athleticism. The famous kidney-shaped grille is prominent, hiding the many driver-assistance-technology components that make the iX the benchmark in its class.

The iX uses the fifth generation of BMW’s eDrive technology, which features state-of-theart battery cells and electric motor technology to deliver both efficiency and performance. It provides ultimate peace of mind when it comes to range anxiety; the iX xDrive40 is able to travel up to 425km and the iX xDrive50 up to 630km between charges. This is more than enough for the majority of daily journeys, but if you do need to charge up, a fast charger can add up to 150km in as little as 10 minutes, the time it takes to grab a cappuccino.

The iX also allows you to interact with the car like never before. It features BMW’s new iDrive infotainment system with a beautiful curved display and a new era of communication thanks to the BMW intelligent personal assistant. Over-the-air updates and access to the BMW ConnectedDrive Store ensure that the iX is always up to date with the latest apps to keep you connected, informed, and entertained.

Technology is also about safety, and the iX has everything from the highest level of strength, courtesy of an aluminium and carbon-fibre-reinforced plastic structure, to driver assistance systems. These include steering and lane control assistants, remote parking with cameras, radars, and ultrasonic sensors ready for the Level 3 automated driving functionality of the future.

The BMW iX represents the ultimate in driving comfort and pleasure in a world of electrification.

It is comfortable, dynamic, connected, and able to meet the needs of everyone from young executives to busy families, all of whom will benefit from the peace of mind of the excellent driving range, the spacious interior, and the latest in connectivity and technology. The iX is not the car of the future, it is the car of today, but even more than that — it’s a BMW.

49

An attainable reality

50

Sporting prowess BMW has been setting the trend for years with its Gran Coupé models. Its stylish, sporty, and practical fourdoor coupés are regarded as the benchmarks for those seeking something unique without compromising on the characteristics they want and need in a car. Now, it is adding an electric, four-door coupé in the form of the new i4 M50, which will arrive in South Africa in the first quarter of 2022.

The i4 looks both athletic and sensual, with an imposing facade, an elegant and curvaceous side profile, and a sporty rear. It has a presence that is often not seen in EVs that follow a certain formula. In fact, one could easily say it is not so much about being an EV and more about being pure BMW. That is also true inside, where there is a degree of familiarity that will appeal to many of those making the switch to electric from a petrol or diesel model.

The i4 M50 turns sheer driving pleasure into electric driving pleasure, with a 0-100km/h time of just 3.9 seconds, all-wheel drive, and power that rivals many a performance petrol model. It sits 53mm lower than a 3 Series sedan, which increases its centre of gravity and helps to ensure the very best in handling.

It achieves all this while being incredibly stylish and versatile, with space for four and plenty of luggage. It can also cover 510km between charges, and to add to the thrill of the drive, famous movie-soundtrack composer Hans Zimmer has created a special sound inside the car that reflects your driving style.

The BMW i4 M50 is not only a powerful and efficient EV but also a sports coupé, commuter, and weekend traveller all in one, a car for all occasions.

The BMW iX3 might well look familiar. After all, the X3 SAV on which it is based is built in South Africa.

However, the iX3 is pure electric, offering a range of up to 460km, with zero emissions. It can fast charge – at up to 150kW, and you can even add as much as 100km of range in just 10 minutes on the right charger. It’s a smart choice for those who want the practicality of an SUV in a vehicle that is better for the environment.

The iX3 is a stylish and sporty vehicle, offering 210kW and sporty acceleration with a 0-100km/h time of 6.8 seconds.

It looks sporty too, with an athletic design accentuated by an M Sport package.

Inside, the iX3 is spacious and comfortable, with room for five adults. There’s the option of sporty seats featuring new Sensatec perforated material and a number of blue trim accents that are stylish on the one hand, and on the other, a reminder that you are in a premium EV. The iX3 is as well connected as you are, with a range of connectivity options all accessed through the latest BMW iDrive system, which includes the BMW intelligent personal assistant. The BMW iX3 is not only a smart choice, it’s a practical choice, showing that you not only appreciate style and practicality but are also part of the road to electric that can transform the way we live and help the climate of the planet.

51

Models on this spread shown for illustrative purposes.

Accelerated innovation

W W J L / 2 0 21

T H E J O Y O F J E W E L S There’s nothing like the allure of gems to make you smile…

It’s time for a glittering dose of glamour!

52

PHOTOGRAPHER JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLIST SAHIL HARILAL

W W J L / 2 0 21

Opposite GRAFF Tribal collection necklace with 51.82ct diamonds in white gold, POA

53

CHARLES GREIG From top Dragonfly ring with pavé-set diamonds and yellow sapphires in 18kt yellow gold, R126 000 Crocodile ring with pavé-set tsavorite in 18kt yellow gold, R182 000 Dragonfly ring with pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R138 000

W W J L / 2 0 21

54

MESSIKA From top Lucky Move ring with pavé-set diamonds in white gold, R41 610 Move Noa bangle with pavé-set diamonds in white gold, R264 100 Move Noa bangle with pavé-set diamonds in white gold, R161 500 Lucky Move necklace with pavé-set diamonds in white gold, R58 710

W W J L / 2 0 21

55

SHEMER From top Earrings with two diamonds (total 6.96ct) in 18kt yellow gold, R1 170 390 Dress ring with 2ct centre diamond, flanked by two kite-shaped diamonds (total 0.41ct) in 18kt white gold, R293 000 Ring set with five cushion-cut diamonds (total 5.2ct) in 18kt white gold, R405 700

W W J L / 2 0 21

56

CARTIER Juste un Clou necklace with 65 diamonds (total 0.68ct) in 18kt gold R1 650 000

W W J L / 2 0 21

58

FOPE Neck chain with 1.18ct diamonds in 18kt yellow gold, R310 000 Collar in 18kt yellow gold, R138 000

Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town 021 418 4515

W W J L / 2 0 21

60

AMERICAN SWISS From top Sun ring with 2ct diamonds (total diamond weight) in 9kt white gold, R99 999 Dazzle Rows ring with 2ct diamonds (total diamond weight) in 18kt yellow gold, R99 999 Anniversary ring with 1ct diamonds (total diamond weight) in 18kt yellow gold, R41 999 Sun earrings with 1.25ct baguette-cut diamonds (total diamond weight) in 9kt white gold, R59 999

C CO O LL LL A B O R A T II O ON N

W W J L / 2 0 21

FOR THE

LOVE OF

JEWELS

The new Masterpieces Collection, available exclusively at American Swiss, is elegance at its finest

Baguette wardrobe: diamond baguette 18ct necklace, hoops, bangle and rings, made to order. For orders, please contact the design team: bespokedesign@asj.co.za

61

The American Swiss Masterpieces Collection needs no introduction.

For years, the reveal of the jeweller’s premium range has been eagerly anticipated as they build on a heritage of exclusive luxury.

This year’s Masterpieces Collection is a tribute to classic diamonds and precious stones that harks back to an era of refined glamour.

W W J L / 2 0 21

62

DOLCE & GABBANA Necklace 43cm with precious gems in 18kt gold, R279 000 Ring with five morganites and a citrine in 18kt gold, R47 000

POMELLATO From top Catene ring with 7.84ct diamonds in rose gold and rhodium-plated silver, R400 000 Tango ring with 6.49ct blue sapphires, aquamarine, and tanzanite in rose gold and burnished silver, R225 000

63

W W J L / 2 0 21

W W J L / 2 0 21

64

MAKE-UP LESLEY WHITBY/LAMPOST HAIR SAADIQUE RYKLIEF/LAMPOST MODEL IMAN MOHIDIN / BOSS MODELS

CHOPARD Happy Spirit bangle with diamonds in ethical white gold, R147 445 Happy Spirit ring with diamonds in ethical white gold, R109 705

011 622 4735

SHOP U9, BEDFORD CENTRE, BEDFORDVIEW

www.shemer.co.za

C O L L A B O R AT I O N

TRADITION with a

RN TW E D IS O T M 1.

Cartier’s foundations are built on a legacy of initiative, refined sophistication, and playful experimentation, as exemplified by the maison’s new high-jewellery collection

2.

3.

THE ROYAL TOUCH

1. Bracelet wth sapphires and diamonds in platinum 2. International Exhibition of Modern, Industrial, and Decorative Arts, Paris 3. Jacques Cartier 4. Cartier Mystery Clock, the Model A

4.

67

The history of Maison Cartier has been written alongside that of kings and queens. Louis-Francois Cartier founded Maison Cartier in 1847 when he took over Adolphe Picard’s workshop, and the fledging jeweller quickly came to the attention of French royalty when Princess Mathilde, the cousin of Napoleon III, purchased a piece of his jewellery.

This was just the start of the maison’s association with blue blood. The opening of the London Cartier boutique in 1902 by Pierre Cartier happened at the same time as the coronation of King Edward VII, who famously called the maison “The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers.” He granted a royal warrant to Cartier just two years later, making the brand his official purveyor of fine jewellery.

Across the world, in the Northwest Indian city of Patiala, the Maharaja Bhupindra Singh commissioned an ornate and glittering set of ceremonial royal jewels from Maison Cartier, and in 1948, the Duke of Windsor asked the jeweller to craft a brooch for his wife, depicting — for the first time — the glittering signature yellowgold Cartier panther in three dimensions, crouched atop a cabochon-cut emerald. >

5.

68

SETTING THE TREND

6.

While Cartier jewellery draped the necks and adorned the fingers of sovereigns across the globe, brothers Jacques, Pierre, and Louis Cartier spent the first half of the 20th century developing the maison’s reputation for ingenuity.

In 1904, Louis pioneered a special watch for aviator Alberto SantosDumont, thus making history by creating what many consider to be the first men’s wristwatch. Refusing to rest on his laurels, in 1912 Louis also debuted the Cartier Mystery Clock, the Model A, famously known for the mechanism being hidden behind a transparent dial.

Meanwhile, Pierre was expanding the family business in America by opening

the first Cartier boutique in New York.

Continuing the maison’s inclination towards innovation, in 1925 Cartier exhibited at the International Exhibition of Modern, Industrial, and Decorative Arts in Paris just as the Art Deco movement was taking off, influencing everything from furniture, automotive, and architectural design to jewellery and fashion. For the next 70 years and into the 21st century, Cartier led the way in fine jewellery and watchmaking. Legendary designs — such as the Crash and Panthère de Cartier watches and the Juste un Clou bracelet, dreamt up by inimitable Cartier creative director Jeanne Toussaint — are now known worldwide as markers of timehonoured taste.

“The sixth sense allows us to feel beyond what is physical, tangible, and rational. It is the connection between emotion and sensations. It is the expression of our emotion in front of beauty” — Jacqueline Karachi director, Cartier International high-jewellery studio 7.

8.

9.

5. Sharkara with pink tourmalines, garnets, coloured sapphires, and diamonds in white gold 6. Santos de Cartier 7. Coruscant with diamonds in platinum 8. The launch of the Sixième Sens Par Cartier High Jewellery Collection at Lake Como 9. Phaan with rubies and diamonds in platinum

Every year, the debut of Cartier’s high-jewellery collection is an opportunity for the maison to celebrate its unique heritage of invention and prestige. The very first high-jewellery collection was launched on the cusp of the new millennium in 2000, and was used as a way for Cartier’s artists to experiment with the raw beauty of gemstones. A special theme is developed to guide them, but the innate quality and exceptionalism of the precious stones and the venerable Cartier tradition are always the fundamental principles behind each new collection.

After a hiatus brought about by the Covid-19 pandemic, the launch of the new high-jewellery collection on the shore of Lake Como in Northern Italy was cause for celebration. The maison used the pandemic as an opportunity to reflect on its archive and what makes us essentially human. Thus, the Cartier Sixth Sense, or Sixième Sens Par Cartier, was born. The new collection was presented by Cyrille Vigneron, the president and CEO of Maison Cartier, in a luxuriously renovated villa at the height of a beautiful Italian summer.

The Il Sereno Lago di Como villa was the perfect backdrop to the launch of Sixième Sens Par Cartier, especially given Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola’s modern, minimalist alterations. Just as the crystal waters of Lake Como sparkle and delight the eye, the Sixième Sens Par Cartier Collection has been created to play with the senses. Jacqueline Karachi, director of the Cartier International high-jewellery studio, explains that the new collection entices the wearer through touch and sight, and even taste and smell, but moves beyond to something deeper and almost spiritual. “The sixth sense allows us to feel beyond what is physical, tangible, and rational. It is the connection between emotion and sensations. It is the expression of our emotion in front of beauty,” she says.

Evoking the timeless elegance of Art Deco motifs and the avant garde design aesthetic for which Cartier is known, the collection seamlessly blends archival design elements from the house’s heritage with precious gems that are allowed to express their natural beauty.

While there is a nod to the past in the new collection, the maison has also used this opportunity to forge a new design language. “Every collection is an opportunity to enrich the Cartier lexicon. It is a living language that is constantly evolving over time,” Karachi says. “Every collection is an opportunity to unveil a new and distinctive aspect of the Cartier style, a style that is unique and multifaceted at the same time. It is in constant evolution.”

Find out more at cartier.com

69

WHERE LUXURY, ART, AND TRADITION COLLIDE

W W J L / 2 0 21

RECLAIM

YOU R

70

MAGIC TEXT GARY COTTERELL

W W J L / 2 0 21

T

he Swiss watch industry certainly knows how to navigate its way around a crisis, and the pandemic was no exception. The major fairs and brands quickly adapted last year, in some cases even evolving as they moved business and communications online. By and large, the forced pause also gave our “always on” society an opportunity to reset the clock and establish a new rhythm. With everyone suffering from Zoom fatigue, this year the fairs adopted a most welcome “phygital” (physical and digital) format with “sustainability” and “digital” topping the agenda of the daily panel discussions, serving to highlight the important shift in consciousness for both industry and consumer. From grand complications and navigation tools that remind us of the origins of watchmaking to new materials and companions for modern adventurers, the novelties for 2021 are a pretty good reflection of our changing attitudes and the spirit of this new age.

COMPLICATIONS Grand accomplishments in watchmaking are often hidden in plain sight: a high complication masked to the untrained eye only through the clever simplicity of the dial design. But flip them over or open them up — and the high art of the mechanical heart is revealed. The Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001 has its day, date, and month displayed on a single line. On the surface, it has an unassuming, elegant design with a satin-finished blue dial, yet within its 41.3mm platinum case is the new self-winding mechanical Caliber 31-260 PS QL with a highly sophisticated mechanical “memory” of four years.

“Complexity made simple”, the minimalist H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has an impressive power reserve of 168 hours. Through simplified display, its hand-wound HMC 812 calibre shows the months via a small red and white central hand, and a window indicates the date, updated at midnight through a “flash calendar” instantaneous date-change mechanism.

A sight to behold, on the other hand, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is the first four-dialled wristwatch and is the horological equivalent of a children’s fantasy pop-up book. Featuring 11 complications, its mechanical wonders are revealed in microscopic detail as you turn the four dials of the quadriptyque. Such grand complications also remind us of the origins of watchmaking as we look for new navigation tools, to the stars or sages in search of answers.

2.

1.

3.

4.

5.

6.

1. JLC Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque 2. Longines Heritage Classic Silver Arrow 3. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL 4. Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5. H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar 6. Ressence Type 1

Much like motoring, the watch industry is about emotion and the synergy between design and complex machines.

For example, the Longines Heritage Classic Silver Arrow breathes life back into an archival piece from the post-war 1950s that referenced the torpedo-shaped Mercedes-Benz racing cars. But while there are many re-issues of historic icons to stir the emotions, innovation remains the cornerstone of the industry and even more so now to keep a new generation of collectors interested. Innovation is about surprising clients with fresh ways of timekeeping and real-world practicality such as the user-centric Ressence eCrown system — a hybrid watch that uses a photovoltaic cell to keep a mechanical movement on time. Throwing down the gauntlet, Tony Fadell has said: “Fine-watchmaking must embrace new technologies to bring back functionality and excitement for the new generations.”

As the inventor of the iPod and founder of home-automation firm Nest Labs, Fadell knows about ground-breaking technologies but also has a very clear view of the future of things. With the rapidly growing interest in analogue timepieces from a younger audience looking for substance over fashion, along with a dose of nostalgia, there is even more pressure on manufactures to be innovative. Fadell also happens to be the tech coach to one of the most innovative young watch brands, Ressence, which takes a “beyond hands” approach to reading time by eliminating conventional raised hands, with sub-dials set seamlessly into their patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display. Looking like a nuclear-reactor emergency-shutdown button, the slim version of their original Type 1 is presented this year in bold red.

Within their focus on pilot’s watches this year, IWC presents the future of watchmaking and extreme aeronautics with its Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL. This is the first watch to feature the brand’s patented new shock absorber system based on a cantilever spring that suspends the movement inside the case.

Protected movements have survived the extreme forces from accelerations in excess of 30 000 g, making it ready for interplanetary sports. >

71

INNOVATION

W W J L / 2 0 21

SUSTAINABILITY

72

The major watch fairs quickly adapted and evolved last year but have now shifted to a most welcome “phygital” (physical and digital) format. Topping the agenda of daily discussion with industry experts presented during the fairs were “sustainability” and “digital” but also included corporate social responsibility, distribution, client experience, blockchain technology, collaboration, and innovation. There is a commendable commitment to the UN Sustainable Development Goals involving ethical material sourcing and more circular economies, with pioneers such as Chopard and IWC leading by example.

This, and the huge benefits of digital for enhanced user experiences and transparency are now very much part of the watch industry’s “new normal”.

With more than 50% of consumers surveyed for the Deloitte “Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020” indicating that they look at a brand’s green credential to inform their purchasing decisions, the pressure is on. This is particularly evident among millennials and Gen-Z, who are known to be conscious consumers, the study shows. The possibility of upcycling all components of a watch was demonstrated through the Panerai Submersible eLAB ID, with 98.6% of its weight made from recycled elements. Cartier’s iconic Tank is once again reborn for the new decade, including an innovative piece that integrates a photovoltaic movement along with clean, bold dials and material straps created through responsible and sustainable production practices. The new Cartier Tank Must features straps made from leather alternatives such as apple waste. The Panerai Ecologico initiative also drives innovation in this area, and the manufacture has decided to share these innovations and all of its supplier’s details with the entire industry through open source. Fifty-eight percent of the components in the new Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel references are made from a new alloy that incorporates recycled materials. The 47mm Swatch Big Bold in Bioceramic is made from two-thirds ceramic and one-third biosourced plastic.

COLOUR SPECTRUM

4.

5.

The booming market for vintage and reimagined archival pieces, along with the emerging 1970s trend, reflect our quest for something solid in unpredictable times.

Watches, particularly of the mechanical kind, are made to last many lifetimes, and while they reflect the demands, styles, spirit, and innovations of a particular age, they are (mostly) not about fads. Trends steal our bandwidth and through fashion suffocate our planet. A long-term relationship with a timepiece begins with one that reflects your personality and your lifestyle. You shouldn’t choose a watch with a “sage green” dial because we tell you it’s the strongest trend of the year but because you appreciate the values of the watchmaker and the design of the timepiece in front of you. Green is a thing though, and we do acknowledge our fascination with an industry that, while planning its novelties years in advance, manages to be so in tune with the current zeitgeist. With the reassuring tick of a mechanical timepiece on your wrist, maybe the timekeepers can provide us with some insights on the world at large in this time of great flux?

6.

7.

The various tints, tones, and shades of green have firmly established the hue as the dial colour du jour. This echoes what’s going on in fashion, while also making a play on our emotional connection to nature and the environment.

Combining the trending material and colour, the Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle features a “khaki green” ceramic case and an open-work dial, which showcases the exceptional El Primero 9004 automatic movement: the fastest, most precise series-made chronograph in production today. Green highlights the

8.

9.

4. Baume & Mercier Riviera 5. Zenith Defy 21 Urban Jungle 6. Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept 7. Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 8. Cartier Tank Must 9. Panerai Submersible eLAB ID 10. Chanel J12 Electro 11. Hublot Hublot MP-09 12. Breitling Super Ocean Heritage Pastel Paradise 13. Piaget Limelight Gala Rainbow 14. Longines Hydroconquest 15. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 16. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer

W W J L / 2 0 21

miniature components of the 2mm thick Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Ultra Thin, the world’s thinnest mechanical, hand-wound watch.

Many watches this year are inspired by collections and colours of the 1970s.

Refreshed and brought up to date, these include the 37mm Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 and the stainless-steel Baume & Mercier Riviera, with its 12-sided bezel and unique ripple-pattern dial. The more refined TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 takes many of its design cues taken from Heuer’s first diver’s watch of the 1970s, the “Ref 844”.

Available in 36mm and 43mm case sizes, all models feature a new uni-directionalrotating, 12-facetted bezel with ceramic

insert, thinner case, screw-down crown, and new bracelet. The Piaget Limelight Gala highlights the much-needed rainbow of bright healing colours that continue this year to calm and lift our spirits after the year in the doldrums.

Oris says its Diver’s Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” collection is “designed to bring warmth and the optimism of better times”. Breitling captures some beachready vibes in its SuperOcean Heritage 57 Pastel Paradise line-up.

10.

Another positive takeaway from this dramatic period is our realisation that sports and movement are paramount for our physical health and mental well-being 11.

12.

NEW MATERIALS

13.

14.

15.

16.

infused it with years of research and Innovation extends to new technology and materials that need to stand up to the rigdevelopment to create the 43mm Rado ors and attitudes of this century. Sapphire, carbon fibre-based composites, bio-sourced Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. The materials, and high-tech ceramics are fast becoming the contemporary case materials 43.5mm Omega Seamaster Diver 300M of choice. With even more concern around sustainability, we will see more eco-friendBlack celebrates the darkest corners of ly, recycled materials, such as Panerai’s eSteel, added to that list. Four new versions of the ocean and shows the versatility of the Hublot MP-09 with Tourbillon Bi-Axis manufacture calibre are constructed using ceramic through contrasting shades of lightweight, coloured, 3D carbon. Anything but fragile, many luxury-watch brands a single colour. The new 38mm Chanel use robust ceramics for their strength and scratch-proof, anti-wear, light-weight, antiJ12 Electro Caliber 12.1 is part of magnetic, and hypoallergenic properties. In celebration of summer and the Meditera capsule collection inspired by electronranean locations of its new boutiques, Hublot has also launched six exclusive editions ic music and the rave culture of the 90s, of its 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph in satin-finished and polished ceramic. The “Master of Materials” Rado has taken its Captain Cook heritage-inspired model and 16.while also waving the rainbow flag.

Another positive takeaway from this dramatic period is our realisation that sports and movement are paramount for our physical health and mental wellbeing. Not since the 1980s, when Jane Fonda’s Workout video had the world doing the donkey kick, have human beings been so active. Accompanying this is a healthier work-life balance as more people work from home. From the urban jungle to the highest peak, Wunderman Thompson Data shows that 58% of people surveyed recently value the outdoors and the environment more as a result of the pandemic crisis. “In an age where almost every experience is now mediated via a screen, more people are opting for tangibility over immediacy and convenience,” the Wunderman report notes.

If “resilience” is the word for the year, there are certainly many novelties built to accompany any attire and outlast new lifestyle pursuits and adventures. Allterrain tool watches and luxury sports watches remain a key focus but are more elegant in design yet even more robust to cope with the rigors of modern living.

They are also becoming more practical through technical updates such as extended power reserves, anti-magnetism, improved precision, and interchangeable straps to suit mood swings and various activities. Examples of this are the cushion-shaped Hermès H08, Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver, and the 18kt gold or silver editions of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. The two-tone trend continues through examples such as the 41mm Longines HydroConquest sport collection in steel and rose PVD or steel and yellow PVD for an additional touch of elegance. Whether they’re purely a nod to their past or embracing new trends, the brands have also presented their new models in smaller vintage, unisex sizes. Meeting the needs of extreme adventures, the new-generation 36mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer is an evolution of the original watch from 1953, which accompanied some of the greatest explorers. Its testing ground has been the most extreme environments, where time management is often key to survival. The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad reinterprets an iconic model from the mid-1960s, which featured a “no radiations” logo indicating that Blancpain did not use luminescent materials composed of radium on professional diver’s watches.

73

ALL-TERRAIN TOOLS

W W J L / 2 0 21

ENVIRONMENT

T

he world in the 21st century can be a daunting place. Every day, we’re bombarded with information declaring that humanity has made a mess of the planet and that we’re past the point of no return. Social media, radio, television, they all carry the same message, and it can be tempting to change the channel or refresh the feed. But there are glimmers of hope in the darkness. A team of scientists installing sensors on the top of Mount Everest to track the effects of global warming. A marine biologist harnessing technology to teach us why our oceans are so important. A bioacoustician learning to listen to the heartbeat of the ocean.

For almost 100 years, ever since Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf strapped his chronometers to the wrists of intrepid explorers venturing to the farthest reaches of the globe, Rolex has supported passionate people who have made discovering new parts of the world their life’s work. The more these pioneers have learnt about our tiny piece of the universe and the plants, animals, and people that call it home, the more their paradigm has shifted from focusing on exploration to the importance of conservation, protection, and preservation. The Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative has been on the cusp of this development, as it’s become glaringly obvious that humanity needs to step up to the plate, stop, and reverse some of the damage that has already been done.

The Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative shelters and incubates a wide range of projects that are all aimed at protecting the earth through scientific research. One of these is a partnership with National Geographic that dates back to 1954, and the first successful Mount Everest summit attempt by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary. Together with National Geographic, Rolex has been on journeys of scientific exploration with some of the leading names in their field, from the top of the tallest peaks in the world to the bottom of the deepest ocean chasms. In 2019, this venerable alliance was cemented through a mission to install weather-monitoring equipment on the icy, rocky peaks of Mount Everest to gather data so as to better understand the effects of a changing climate on vital Himalayan ecosystems.

74

MAKING HISTORY ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD The trip to Mount Everest is part of an undertaking called the National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Expeditions. This ambitious project aims to monitor, diagnose, and propose solutions to the consequences of human activity on three of the most vulnerable and least-understood biomes on earth: mountains that provide fresh, potable water for millions of people and animals; oceans, which are the globe’s air-conditioning system; and rainforests that provide us with our breathable air and trap our carbon dioxide emissions.

For the project on Everest, climate scientists Tom Mathews and Baker Perry, along with a team of sherpas, erected a 2m tall weather station weighing 50kg on the southeast ridge of the mountain.

They accomplished this remarkable feat while battling raging winds, subzero temperatures, and lack of oxygen at over 27 000 feet above sea level.

Once erected, this weather station became the highest in the world. It’s one of five that expedition leader and director of the Climate Change

Institute at the University of Maine Paul Mayewski and his team have erected to monitor conditions on the mountain, but also (and perhaps most importantly) to gather data on the subtropical jet stream. This band of air circumnavigates the world and affects storm systems, the seasonal weather patterns that farmers rely on for planting seasons, and many other critical weather phenomena that Mayewski and his colleagues are just starting to understand.

Predictions for the future of the Himalayas are dire. An International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development study, based on five years of data collection, suggests that a third of the Himalayas’ 10 000 glaciers will disappear by the end of the century. This spells disaster not only for 25% of the world’s population who rely on these glaciers for water, but also for systems such as the subtropical jet stream. Field research such as that being done by Mayewski and the 30 cartologists, biologists, glaciologists, and climate scientists who make up the team supported by Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative, will allow us to better understand these effects, potentially arrest them, and prepare for the future.

The Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative is forging a legacy of care through its support of scientific research and enterprise

ENVIRONMENT

W W J L / 2 0 21

BUILDING A

“We believe the best way to do science on Everest isn’t just to do one kind of science, but do many kinds of science” Paul Mayewski director, Climate Change Institute, University of Maine

75

TEXT MATTHEW McCLURE IMAGES SUPPLIED

PERPETUAL PLANET

W W J L / 2 0 21

ENVIRONMENT

76

SPOTTING HOPE IN THE OCEAN Like Mathews, Perry, and Mayewski, National Geographic explorer in residence Sylvia Earle is no stranger to harsh conditions. She spent two weeks living in an underwater laboratory in order to understand the effects of extended submersion on the human body, and, in 1979, set the world untethered diving record at a depth of 381m. To say the ocean is Earle’s passion would be an understatement. In 2009, with a TED Award under her belt, she founded Mission Blue, a project that aims to establish protected marine “hope spots” in places all over the world that are culturally or historically significant, biodiverse, or upon which local communities heavily rely.

This Rolex testimonee, author, lecturer, and marine biologist has been uniquely placed to witness firsthand the effects of human activity on the planet’s oceans during her long career underwater.

With Rolex’s support as part of the Perpetual Planet initiative, the number of hope spots has blossomed since 2014 from just 40 to over 130.

The ultimate aim of this endeavour is to contribute to protecting 30% of the planet’s oceans by 2030. Mission Blue is an astounding success story that has been driven by one woman’s deep love for and commitment to the sea and the creatures that live in it. The organisation has worked with communities in countries across the globe, using cutting-edge scientific technology to expand our understanding of these critical undersea environments, and sharing as much information as possible with audiences (83 million people and counting) worldwide. It is, after all, only through really understanding why our survival as a species depends on Earth’s oceans that we can truly comprehend the importance of protecting them. Hope spots are scattered across the surface of the world, from the Patagonian Shelf in the South Atlantic Ocean to the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Bengal, some in marine-protected areas, and others in places crying out for intervention. Anyone can nominate a hope spot. Think your little patch of sea needs protection? The Mission Blue hope-spot council will investigate and evaluate. It’s really all about community involvement and outreach.

“The next 10 years will really determine the outcome of the next 10 000 years” Sylvia Earle National Geographic explorer in residence

ENVIRONMENT

W W J L / 2 0 21

“The beauty of this technology is that it is listening to the ocean 24 hours a day, every day, every month, every year” Prof. Michel André Rolex Enterprise Award Laureate

A LEGACY OF ENTERPRISE

Go to rolex.org to read more, and keep an eye on wantedonline.co.za for more inspiring Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative stories

77

It’s this spirit of social engagement, of building a global family of environmental innovators, and empowering game-changing ideas that led to the formation of another fundamental pillar of the Rolex Perpetual Planet initiative: The Rolex Awards for Enterprise. It was in 1976 that then chief executive officer for Rolex Andre J. Heiniger realised that the very same principles that guided the meticulous construction of Rolex watches needed to be recognised, supported, and celebrated in people all over the world. Ingenuity, steadfast determination in spite of the odds, and — most importantly — enterprise were the markers that the awards aim to support. The very first awards filled a noticeable gap in corporate philanthropy at a time when those doing important work on the periphery of mainstream funding would often miss the opportunity to have their projects financially supported. Perhaps because of this, the response to the awards was overwhelming, kicking off what was to become a biannual event that would draw in remarkable talent from a multitude of different cultures and fields all over the world. That was more than 40 years ago, and the Rolex Awards for Enterprise have gone from strength to strength.

Possibly the most exciting thing about the awards is that anyone can apply. To date, there have been more than 35 000 applications from 190 different countries since the inaugural event in 1976. Laureates, the title given to five winning candidates chosen during the judging process at the Rolex headquarters in Geneva, have ranged from 24 to 74 years old.

The explorers, innovators, scientists, educators, and conservationists who make up the judging panel every two years have the tough task of deciding which applicants meet the laureate criteria, and they do this based not only on whether proposals can benefit the planet and humanity but also whether the candidate has the ingenuity and resolve to make their idea a reality.

Over the years, the Rolex Awards for Enterprise — and the work that laureates are doing — has reflected the myriad concerns facing humanity and the planet, from a growing awareness in the 1990s of the damage that CFC gases cause to the ozone layer to, more recently, the effects of global warming. Since Heiniger’s inspired idea was made a reality, 155 laureates have been chosen, and the success of the awards can be easily told in numbers alone. More than 57 000km2 of pristine Amazon rainforest protected. Twenty-one million trees planted. Thirty-four endangered species saved from extinction. As impressive as these figures sound, it’s the individual stories of commitment and passion that really inspire. Professor Michel André became a laureate in 2002 and has developed a network of underwater acoustic equipment called LIDO (Listening to the Deep Ocean) that, for the first time, allows us to understand the impact of noise pollution on sea species. Prof. André’s dream is to stop and reverse some of the damage that noise from fossil-fuel extraction and shipping is wreaking on the breeding habits and communication of deep-ocean species that rely on sound. As the human species barrels towards the middle of the 21st century, reaching out to the stars and beyond in its never-ending quest to explore further than ever before, we need to remember to keep our feet and eyes trained firmly on the earth. It’s never been more important to remember where we come from — and that there really is only one planet that we can call home.

W W J L / 2 0 21

Overnight, e-commerce has become one of the main drivers for the luxury-watch industry and a useful educational tool

T

he global shutdown last year highlighted the intrinsic value of our digital tools. With stores and major fairs postponed indefinitely, Covid-19 fast-tracked the global shift online for the luxury-watch industry to showcase and sell its novelties. The fairs have now returned, offering a “phygital” (physical and digital) immersion and interaction with brands.

As was reinforced during the recent Geneva Watch Days (GWD), the past 18 months have clearly transformed the way manufactures launch, market, and sell watches, with many players in the industry, including auction houses like Phillips, having embraced the change.

For many years, the industry poohpoohed e-commerce as impersonal, unsatisfying, and a “cheap” way of selling premium items. Yet overnight,

it has become one of the main drivers for the industry and a useful education tool. It builds trust, even augmenting personal relationships. Along with “sustainability”, the “digital revolution” has topped the agenda of talks at Watches & Wonders (W&W) and GWD, focusing on consumer experience, transparency, and authentication through the use of blockchain technology.

By now you’ve at least heard of blockchain through the speculativeinvestment frenzy around bitcoin, for which the technology was created as a “shared public ledger that supports a cryptocurrency network”, according to Investopedia.com, which offers a comprehensive explanation and history of the subject. More recently, the crypto-token craze has produced colourful headlines on the use of

blockchain verification in the art world through the trading of collectable digital art NFTs (non-fungible tokens), a form of “cultural cryptocurrency”. Earlier this year, after teaming up with the newly launched NFT platform ArtGrails, Jacob & Company presented the first luxurywatch NFT for sale on a tokenised asset in the form of a unique 3D animation inspired by its Epic SF24. It features a tourbillon and its patented city-time world-time display split-flap system instead displaying the names of 10 cryptocurrencies. On the first day of the online auction, bidding overloaded the system, and it crashed. When it restarted, the virtual hammer fell on a final bid of 50.74 ether (about R1.45million). The retail price for a physical Epic SF24 Tourbillion World Time in rose gold is around R1.8-million.

THE DIGITAL

DIMENSION

78

Blockchain and the luxurygoods industry

TEXT GARY COTTERELL IMAGES SUPPLIED

Interest in blockchain platforms has grown exponentially. They can improve traceability and supply chain tracking, which is great for the growing concern around sustainability. Blockchain platforms can also facilitate secure financial transactions thanks to their decentralised data storage – blocks of information linked in a chain, with each block containing a full record since the inception of an item or transaction. This also means that no single person or group has control. As Investopedia explains, “If one node has an error in its data, it can use the thousands of other nodes as a reference point to correct itself.” This means that the history of transactions in

each block is irreversible and cannot be tampered with.

The luxury-goods industry’s use of blockchain was first part of the fight against counterfeiting but is now incorporated into most aspects of the business. The advantages for the industry were highlighted during a panel discussion the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie hosted at W&W 2021. “Blockchain creates digital value that can be traced, exchanged, transferred, and stored,” explained Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel, CEO of Arianee, an independent non-profit consortium developing a global standard for digital certification, particularly in the luxury industry, based on an >

W W J L / 2 0 21

1. Hublot Hublot celebrates 10 years since the creation of bitcoin, with the Big Bang Meca-10 P2P limited-edition watch, available for purchase exclusively online with bitcoin and also featuring the transaction number engraved on the edge of the bezel, rendering each piece unique.

79

1.

80

W W J L / 2 0 21

open-source protocol — the key being transparency. “The fact that you can digitally prove that you are the owner of a product gives access to communities, service, and experiences. That’s where the revolution lies. Think of it as storing information securely and anonymously in a digital safe. The customer is the only person who has access to the safe, through their phone, without ever having to provide personal information.”

Arianee uses a side-chain linked to the ethereum public blockchain, making it more transparent than permissionbased enterprise blockchains, over which companies have direct control.

The Richemont group has contracted Arianee to work with its brands, including Panerai and Roger Dubuis, and is joined by Audemars Piguet, Breitling, and MB&F. “Brands commit to a digital passport,” Hurstel said. “Then it’s up to them to decide what type of information they want to share with the customer, bearing in mind that this information can be certified, through blockchain, by a third party. Ethical sourcing of gold would be an example.”

While most premium watchmakers have by now woken up to the potential of luxury e-commerce, Richemont leads the way, with its sites Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter being early adopters of online luxury watch sales, presenting brands such as IWC, Cartier, and JaegerLeCoultre, among others.

But even e-commerce seems to have evolved, and the focus is now more on getting to know your customer than just click-and-pay.

The huge interest in vintage timepieces has seen exponential growth of the secondary market, and in 2018 Richemont acquired UK-based Watchfinder & Co, showing how serious it is about controlling all aspects of the market. However, this segment presents an opportunity for unscrupulous dealers and counterfeiters. Along with efforts to counteract counterfeiting, and in order to safeguard transactions and guarantee the authenticity of its brand watches, both old and new, Richemont piloted a certification process in 2019, supported by protocols developed by Arianee, through its most premium offering, Vacheron Constantin. A forgery-proof digital certificate of authenticity and history follows a watch throughout its life, allowing for several changes of ownership and a historical record that cannot be changed but can be added to over time, as Vacheron’s chief digital officer, Angela Au-Yeung, explained during the W&W talks. “We focused the pilot project on our Les Collectionneurs, which

2. Jacob & Company Epic

SF24 Tourbillon World Time NFT in rose gold 3. Vacheron Constantin In 2019 Richemont piloted a certification process supported by protocols developed by Arianee, a leading non-fungible token platform, through its most premium offering, Vacheron Constantin, in order to safeguard transactions and guarantee the authenticity of its watches, both old and new.

2.

The fact that you can digitally prove that you are the owner of a product gives access to communities, service, and experiences.

T h a t ’s w h e r e t h e revolution lies” — Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel, CEO of Arianee

are vintage timepieces that our heritage division collects [on the pre-owned market]. These watches go through a process of refurbishment and authentication, and then we put the digital certification on the blockchain before offering them for sale to our customers. We were also able to use our amazing archive to add stories and information about these watches.”

The success of the first test phase has prompted the maison to extend the certification to all timepieces. Whether they are the first or subsequent owners, Vacheron sees blockchain as a means to interact with customers digitally and securely via its Hour Club platform. The Arianee protocol allows Breitling owners

to prove the authenticity of a piece and its ownership. A fixed digital identity that is unique to each product ensures airtight security and privacy. With a Dentsu Tracking-powered digital warranty, owners can also track any repairs to their watches. Customers have full control of their personal data and remain anonymous if they choose, without missing out on an innovative and symbiotic brand-customer relationship.

Hublot was actually one of the first companies to equip a timepiece with a blockchain-based authentication system back in 2009, through cybersecurity firm WISeKey. Last year, Hublot introduced an e-warranty and electronic passport for

3.

all watches through a blockchain-based platform in partnership with KerQuest.

This system works much like facial recognition based on the unique, microstructure of the materials used in each watch, and a photo taken with a mobile phone is all that’s required to activate it. The e-warranty is kept on the Aura luxury blockchain network (developed

by Microsoft and the blockchain company ConsenSys), which was initiated by the LVMH Group – owner of Hublot – as part of its efforts to curb counterfeiting. With access to all the date on the life cycle of a timepiece, from production to sale and resale, anyone can now verify its authenticity.

BIG BANG INTEGRAL Grey ceramic case with integrated bracelet.

In-house UNICO chronograph movement.

LA IO CC OO LLA BB OO RR AA T ITO NN

A VENETIAN DREAM

When Dolce&Gabbana launched the Alta Gioielleria collection at the magnificent Senate Chamber in the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, it was a fitting tribute to Italian craft and heritage skills

D

82

esigners Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana included design references to the city and worked with crafters using the last existing historical furnace in Venice.

“Every creation here is an affirmation of the artistic excellence of our country,” Domenico Dolce says. “That is what lies at the origin of our high jewellery of Venice collection.” The collection is a pure celebration of the joy of life, particularly relevant considering what the world has emerged from. Bold, decorative pieces are adorned with aquamarines, amethysts, sapphires, diamonds, and pearls in an abundance of colour.

The designers followed each diamond’s traceability from mines in Botswana, insisting on certifications of their place of origin as well as from the Gemological Institute of America.

TRUE MASTERPIECES

Dolce&Gabbana’s gemmological laboratory assessed the quality of the gems in the magnificent necklace and earrings (pictured here), analysing each individual crystal.

Morganites and citrines take centre stage, and each piece pays homage to the art of gem-setting. For each gemstone in the necklace, a bezel has been modelled and finished by hand in such a way as to bring out the most in its colour, transparency, and brilliance. The frames of the crystals are embellished with diamonds, tanzanites, and morganites, and the individual settings are interspersed with vegetal elements.

Entirely hand-modelled and engraved by the best Italian craftspeople, the floral Baroque-inspired motifs are illuminated by a tanzanite pistil.

The impressive oval-shaped citrines and terminal morganites are the heroes of the earrings. As with the necklace, for each gemstone, a bezel was modelled and finished by hand. To emphasise the morganites’ charm, the goldsmiths embellished every frame with tanzanites and diamonds and inserted volutes in the central part of the composition.

“Every creation here is an affirmation of the artistic excellence of our country”

Necklace with morganites, citrines, tanzanites, blue sapphires, and diamonds in yellow gold; earrings with morganites, citrines, tanzanites, and diamonds in yellow gold

83

— Domenico Dolce

W W J L / 2 0 21

P E R F E C T LY M I N IATU RE

WORKS OF ART

IMAGES SUPPLIED

84

TEXT DEBBIE HATHWAY

W W J L / 2 0 21

A

2.

The world’s top watchmaking and jewellery houses make extensive use of decorative arts. We take a closer look at gem-setting

s a decorative art, gem-setting is deemed to be at least as difficult as mastering watchmaking itself.

“Early watches, like early clocks, were not especially reliable timekeepers, but they were extremely expensive, as they were mechanical amusements that only the very wealthy could afford. As a general rule, no expense was spared in making their decoration as lavish as the client’s pockets were deep.

Enamelling, engraving, marquetry, gem-setting and, later, engine-turning were all used extensively, and materials were as varied as they were costly,” writes Jack Forster in Cartier Time Art: Mechanics of Passion.

France and Switzerland in particular became known for the use of elaborate decorative arts in horology.

Finely engraved cases, sometimes lavishly set with pearls, diamonds, and other gems, were made by French and Swiss watchmakers for nobles and merchants who collected timepieces that were as remarkable decoratively as they were mechanically. “At Cartier, the appreciation and use of such decorative art and crafts is found almost from the very beginning,” Forster writes.

Pieces chosen by or commissioned for Cartier were memorable for their

lavish ornamentation, the earliest example in the Cartier collection being the chatelaine watch, dated 1874. (A chatelaine is a chain that hangs from the waist. A chatelaine watch was considered highly fashionable when worn hanging from a belt.)

Both the chatelaine and the case in this instance were decorated with pearls, demonstrating a level of gemsetting artistry that Cartier still strives for today. A wealth of techniques, including gem-carving and -setting, continue to be represented in its Métiers D’Art collection. These are just some of the artisanal skills that are highly valued for their rarity and complexity, which in turn influence the pricing of the pieces that showcase their prowess. Leading watchmaking and jewellery houses try to keep these in-house and, if necessary, invest in training talented individuals to ensure continuity of savoir faire.

An artisan who specialises in gemsetting must have extreme patience and self-control to be able to handle a precious stone with just the right amount of pressure to prevent it from shattering in the setting process.

Chopard describes gem-setting as a form of sculpture, which can be crafted in various ways. >

Opposite: Piaget Taille Réduite

2. Boucheron Ajourée Masy le Caméléon with round pavé-set diamonds, multicoloured sapphires, tsavorites, and rubies in white gold. It is a complex creation, due to the chameleon shape.

3. Bvlgari Allegra 36mm with round, brilliant-cut diamonds, faceted and cabochon gemstones, and a mother-of-pearl dial and indexes set with 12 diamonds in 18kt rose gold

85

3.

W W J L / 2 0 21

“A t C a r t i e r , the appreciation and use of such decorative art and crafts is found almost from the very beginning” — Jack Forster, Cartier Time Art: Mechanics of Passion

86

4.

Prong-setting clamps the gem between several precious metal rods, while bezelsetting is where the gem is encircled by a metal belt. Invisible setting sees the metal “disappear” to allow the stone to shine, while magic-setting was developed to further enhance precious stones.

One of Chopard’s signature techniques is the dropped setting, which involves using successive rounded borders, cut directly from the metal with gravers, and bent back over the gems.

“All the stone varieties that pass through my hands have their specificities, and it is only through experience that I am able to deal with each one without breaking or damaging it,” says Carlos, a Chopard artisan gem-setter. “It’s a daily challenge. Thanks to our passion, we create beauty.”

At the Graff atelier in London, master crafters use stone-led design techniques to enhance the beauty of the stones they incorporate into their watches and jewellery. The high-jewellery

4. Graff Tribal collection necklace with 38ct diamonds in white gold 5. Cartier La Panthère bracelet with onyx in 18kt yellow gold

Tribal collection, primarily featuring unique pieces, was photographed on the Atlantis dunes in the Western Cape when global lockdown travel restrictions eased. In the accompanying images, the New Dawn motif is featured as a signature of the collection. Described as an “explosive sunburst symbolic of life, energy and power”, the jewels harness the glow of the rising sun and speak to the “soul of the eternal beauty of nature”.

The designs are inspired by a San story about a girl who created the stars.

For this year’s submission for the biannual Only Watch auction, Maison Boucheron revisited its enchanted bestiary to celebrate its enduring charm.

Boucheron’s jewellers excel in creating delicate sculptures: chiselling, polishing, and using very precise pavé techniques to bring these animals to life. The Ajourée Masy le Caméléon jewellery watch dial highlights the chameleon’s body pavéd with round diamonds, multicoloured sapphires, tsavorites, and rubies. This

creation is incredibly complex because of the creature’s curved form.

Meanwhile at Piaget, the responsibility lies with the best gemmologists to source quality stones that match the drawings for each piece and can be cut accordingly.

In the case of the Limelight Gala Rainbow watch, the designers mixed different types of stones to find the perfect colours, sapphires of different colours but also green tsavorites.

And for the Limelight Gala High Jewellery watch, they found the bestquality opal in Australia. Both pieces were revealed at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2021 “Then the hard part begins: cutting very thin slices of opal and stiffening them. At each step of the process — cutting, machining, glueing — you have high risks of breaking the opal,” says Cynthia Tabet, global product-marketing director for Piaget.

Moraglione artisans are tasked with cutting, shaping, and polishing

5.

the rough stones selected by hand for their jewellery collections. Precious stones crafted in perfect proportion are featured in contemporary jewellery pieces inspired by classic elegance.

For Moraglione, it’s all about artistic expression and extracting the qualities that will accentuate the femininity of the woman who wears the jewels.

Craftsmanship is centre stage for Bvlgari when it comes to jewellery creations that feature head-turning combinations of precious and semiprecious stones. Bvlgari’s head of high jewellery, Giampaolo Della Croce, says the gem represents the soul, the spirit, of the jewel.

“You need to have very skilled artisans who can pass this passion into the jewel. This is the beauty of Bvlgari’s craft. It’s a work of art but also a feat of engineering — how the necklace can be worn as a second skin. This sort of craftsmanship is difficult to achieve. It’s as rare as the stones.”

EVENT REPORT

W W J L / 2 0 21

W

atches & Wonders Geneva 2021, the annual event that focuses the world’s leading retailers, VIP guests, and invited journalists on the art of watchmaking, achieved record reach during the 10-day April showcase. Organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie estimates that 500-million people witnessed Swiss efficiency through the digital event, hosted this way for the second consecutive year due to the pandemic.

More than 1 000 exclusive presentations and meetings conducted by 38 participating brands, and the Morning Show broadcasts available for public viewing on YouTube generated close to 360 000 social media posts featuring the hashtag #WatchesAndWonders2021.

While we wait with bated breath for permission to travel to the physical event in 2022, it’s good to reflect on watchmaking news and the pieces that got watch fans excited this year.

According to the Global Watch Market 2021-2025 report, the sector is “poised to grow by $8,31-billion during 2021-2025, progressing at a compound annual growth rate of more than 2% during the forecast period”.

The report includes an analysis of global leaders Casio Computer Co. Ltd., Citizen Systems Japan Co. Ltd., Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, Fossil Group Inc., LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Movado Group Inc., Ralph Lauren Corp., Rolex SA, Seiko Holdings Corp., and The Swatch Group Ltd. The research team says one of the major drivers of this market is the rising demand for premium watches.

Independent brands such as H. Moser & Cie. are fully booked until October 2022 and searching for more watchmakers to help keep pace with demand. “It’s been crazy for two years now. Even through the pandemic we managed to grow by 12%. Our first quarter results were more than double last year’s record. It’s quite incredible,” says H. Moser & Cie. CEO Edouard Meylan.

Debbie Hathway flags some of her favourite new timepieces revealed at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2021

1.

JAW-DROPPING WATCHMAKING WONDERS 1. Cartier Tank Asymétrique watch, yellow

Tudor

gold 2. H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Panerai Tourbillon Concept Tigers Eye, Falcon’s Eye

A hard-stone dial is one way to ensure a one-of-a kind piece. Another is to buy bronze, which develops a unique patina over time. This year, Tudor released a bronze version of its Black Bay 58 model.

The Panerai Piccolo Due Madreperla is a striking example of Italian style with its red alligatorleather strap and mother-of-pearl dial.

Black Bay 58

Piccolo Due 3.

Xxxx Xxxx

Madreperla

87

1. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Glow Me Up

EVENT REPORT

W W J L / 2 0 21

Collectors’ pieces For the sake of background, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was the predecessor of Watches & Wonders Geneva. Formed in 1991 as an exclusive trade show dedicated to fine watchmaking, it was rebranded for 2020. It has been deprived of a physical relaunch due to the global lockdown, with all parties having to make do with a digital substitute.

My first invitation to SIHH was in 2012, and it was then that I fell in love with the Cartier Tank (95 years after its creation at that stage). That was the year of the Tank Anglaise, and the maison

2.

released a small model in rose gold with diamonds, a medium model in white gold or with full diamond pavé, and a large model in white gold. It was the first new Tank released since 2002, and enthusiasts were excited about the design change that saw the crown being built into one of the trademark brancards, and hidden by a crown protector. This year saw additions to the Cartier Tank Must line, launched in 1977, with a range of sizes in steel with white dials, fastened with calf leather or non-animal straps or steel bracelets. There are also large models with eye-catching red, blue, and

green dials and matching alligator straps that pay tribute to the monochrome ’80s.

Reflecting on this year’s launches, I realise most of my favourites are limited editions, one of them being Cartier’s Tank Asymétrique. First introduced in 1936, the line is now part of Cartier Privée, an exclusive “connoisseurs’ club” that highlights the design of the Maison’s legendary watches (the Crash watch, the Tank Cintrée, and the Tonneau).

The design of the Tank Asymétrique has the numbers and indices shifted 30 degrees to the right on the dial, so you don’t have to turn your wrist to read the time. There are six variations, numbered and limited to 100. Three of them have skeletonised dials.

Colour was an enduring theme this year, with several designers breathing hope, positivity, and enthusiasm into a lockeddown world. H. Moser & Cie looked to Mother Nature for inspiration. And therein lies the challenge. The brand is known for its vibrant dial colours, so opting for a natural stone dial limited its options for unique pieces but not its determination. It discovered variations to the conventional yellow of the Tiger’s Eye, settling on red (Ox’s Eye), and blue (Falcon’s Eye) for the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye, limited to 50 pieces each. “The stone has a built-in linear effect. The challenge is to find the right stones with those parallel lines that make it modern yet vintage in a way,” Meylan says. “It’s a natural stone, so you never know what you’re going to get.

But we’re doing haute horlogerie, so we try to find the best stones and craft them in a qualitative way to ensure that customers get what they’re looking for.”

2. Cartier Tank Asymétrique in yellow gold

The IWC Portofino Chronograph is available for the first time in a 39mm case. It is available in stainless steel with a green-, black-, or silver-plated dial.

Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 Automatic is available in a new steel version. The olivegreen dial showcases a sunburst finish, encircled by two rows of diamonds set according to the exclusive “dentelle” technique.

Twenty~4 Automatic 3.

Xxxx Xxxx

IMAGES SUPPLIED

gold 2. Philippe H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Patek Tourbillon Concept Tigers Eye, Falcon’s Eye

Portofino Chronograph

88

1. Cartier Tank Asymétrique watch, yellow

IWC

EVENT REPORT

W W J L / 2 0 21

Milestone anniversary for the tourbillon

3.

manufacturing process as he is about exclusively making tourbillon watches.

The spherion system weighs 0.79g.

Compare that to a drop of water, which weighs 2g, and you’ll get perspective on the skill and craftsmanship involved.

“We call our watches ‘happy watches’.

When you look at them, they give you pleasure,” he says.

Meanwhile, Roger Dubuis continues to reveal avant-garde contemporary works of art in grand style. All Roger Dubuis timepieces carry the Geneva Seal, which verifies the quality of their decorations and finishes, entirely executed by hand. The brand’s 2021 Excalibur Original Flying Tourbillon collection, with its skeletonised movement and star-shaped bridge, boasts a hand-wound movement with materials, including titanium, which make it light enough for a 72-hour power reserve. The three models in this line are limited to 88 pieces.

I was fascinated by Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur “Glow Me Up”, featuring luminescent baguette-shaped diamonds in different colours along the bezel. It is limited to only eight pieces. Patented processes allow the brand to place the luminescent material beneath the stones, which allows the calibres to glow too. The components are painted with luminescent material to further showcase the star-shaped bridge in poor light.

4.

5.

3. H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tigers Eye in blue 4. Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow 5. Purnell Escape II Treasure Baguette Rainbow

6. Breguet Developed 220 years ago by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Tourbillon is regarded as one of

the greatest complications of all time. Pictured: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

Rolex

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 Rolex presented three colourful versions of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36. Available in 18kt yellow gold, 18kt white gold, and 18kt Everose gold, the case is set with 254 brilliant-cut diamonds while the dial is adorned with 450 diamonds and the bezel with another 52. The watch is fastened with a polished alligator-leather strap.

6.

Mechanical masterpieces The launch of the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon High Jewellery marks Hublot’s 30th unique high-end jewellery piece in the quest to push the limits of watchmaking. Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe says the intention is to achieve the exceptional by making watches entirely set with precious stones with the highest number of carats, in record-breaking time.

“In so doing, our watchmaking know-how (in terms of mechanisms and complications) and our identity (the fusion of materials) remain essential.

Hundreds of hours are spent on preparation, from the design to the search for, and later cutting and setting of the precious stones. Setting a watch like the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon High Jewellery is a truly technical and aesthetic achievement. We never give in to doubt because we like to make the impossible possible,” he says.

The watch features an automatic tourbillon calibre, fully designed and manufactured in-house, and set with 31ct of 484 baguette-cut diamonds. It has a fully integrated aesthetic from the case to the strap, and enables full visibility of the mechanics on the dial side thanks to its sapphire composition.

Another mechanically intriguing creation is Montblanc’s Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, which is equipped with its proprietary oneminute tourbillon. The construction enables the movement’s balance wheel to oscillate outside (exo) the traditional tourbillon cage, making one full rotation per minute. And in the Montblanc

Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition 18, that balance is 3.2mm higher than the dial, making it look like it’s levitating in mid-air. How do they do it? By using a tourbillon bridge with a single curved arm.

Because the displaced balance wheel makes the cage smaller and lighter, the Exo Tourbillon is more energy efficient.

While the tourbillon is further balanced by two gold pillars, the balance wheel remains unaffected by the cage’s inertia because of its displaced position. The intricately designed complication is countered by an elegant hour and minute sub-dial at 12 o’clock, set against a splendid aventurine dial in an 18kt white-gold case. The handfinished Minerva-crafted manual-wound Montblanc Manufacture calibre M16.68 may be admired through the caseback.

Looking ahead to next year, and endlessly debating when and how we will be able to navigate the world as we used to, doing what we love when it comes to business and pleasure, we have reluctantly embraced digital as the new normal. But we’re holding out for balance.

More and more people are turning to digital to be informed about and buy luxury. Covid-19 has accelerated that. But Laurent Lecamp, MD of Montblanc’s Watch Division, says, “Luxury is based on emotion. We need contact. Luxury is not through the screen. It’s the difference between real and digital flowers. In the next months and years, we’ll be splitting between physical and digital. We need a mix.”

89

This year is the 220th anniversary of Abraham Louis Breguet’s invention of the tourbillon, which improves the accuracy and precision of a mechanical watch.

It’s a complication that features regularly in new watch designs, and participating brands at Watches & Wonders Geneva unveiled some unforgettable tourbillon creations.

Purnell makes only tourbillons, which it describes as “happiness personified”.

Purnell CEO Maurizio Mazzocchi, who has vast experience in the development of high-end Swiss watch brands, applies Leonardo da Vinci’s concept of motion as being the cause of all life to the art of watchmaking. “What is always in motion in a watch? The tourbillon,” he says.

Purnell Watches’ magnificent Escape II Treasure Baguette Rainbow is bedecked with jewels that fix the eye on the mechanical hand-winding calibre P13 and its double spherion with set cages that make it the world’s fastest triple-axis tourbillon. (The spherion was invented by watchmaker Eric Coudray, who won the Gaïa Award for watchmaking in 2012.) The piece shimmers with brilliant baguette-cut rainbow sapphires, rubies, emeralds, tsavorites, and baguette-cut diamonds.

It is available in 18kt rose gold in two case sizes: 44mm and 48mm. Mazzocchi is as passionate about the brand’s Swiss

THE C E LE B RATI O N OF A

90

CLASSIC

When Coco Chanel launched her N°5 Parfum in 1921, she revolutionised

The complexity was in j u i c e ’s s i m p l i c i t y , a n d olfactory creation hit m a g i c n o t e . To t h i s d a y , formula remains a se

the the the the cret

I

A CENTENARY COLLECTION

To celebrate 100 years of the iconic fragrance, which is the embodiment of the House’s spirit, Chanel has released a series of limited editions.

The new and unique limited edition version of N°5 Eau de Parfum is bottled in recycled glass, and the new box, with the distinctive shape of the legendary bottle, is made of biodegradable paper pulp with the number 5 inscribed in gold on the label. The same treatment has been applied to N°5 L’Eau, the label of which is adorned with a silver number 5. For its Holiday 2021 collection, the Chanel Makeup Creation Studio drew inspiration from N°5 and “100 years of celebrity”.

The golden hues of the fragrance have been transformed into makeup for the eyes and face, while lips and nails are draped in red. These new exclusive creations are available for a limited period at Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutique, Sandton City, V&A Waterfront, and Menlyn.

the world of fragrance. A century later, the iconic scent lives on

91

t may seem a little too simplistic now considering the status of the fragrance a century later, but Coco Chanel’s “brief” to perfumer Ernest Beaux was to create a scent that would make “its wearer smell like a woman, and not a rose”. She was supposedly trying to forget the memory of the smell of the soap used by the girls at the orphanage where she lived for almost seven years.

The resulting fragrance, and indeed the bottle and box, were pared down to the essentials, devoid of any ornamentation.

However, the complexity was in the juice’s simplicity, and the olfactory creation hit the magic note. To this day, the formula remains a secret.

Over the past 100 years, the bottle has been modified eight times, and only five interpretations of the juice, including the original Parfum, exist. In 1924, the world welcomed the first variation of the scent in the lively Chanel N°5 Eau de Toilette. It was followed 60 years later, in 1986, when perfumer Jacques Polge created the Eau de Parfum, with a new concentration but with the same sensuality as the original.

His son Olivier Polge, Chanel’s current in-house perfumer, is responsible for N°5 Eau Première, the more luminous interpretation of N°5 that launched in 2008, as well as the most recent variation, which made its debut in 2016 — N°5 L’Eau: a fresh, floral EDT. For L’Eau, Olivier dissected each ingredient in the original formula for a vibrant freshness.

W W J L / 2 0 21

Fragrance has a unique ability to evoke vivid memories and emotions.

As the odour molecules of the ingredients pass through the nasal passages, they bind to neurons at the top, which then send messages to the limbic system — the seat of emotion, and where memories are formed

92

MAK

IN

PHOTOGRAPHER JUDD VAN RENSBURG STYLIST LAUREN NICOLL TEXT INGRID WOOD

G

M

O M RIE E

S

93

W W J L / 2 0 21

W W J L / 2 0 21

A woody floral, Creed Royal Princess Oud EDP is a blend of rare, luxurious, and bold ingredients. Top notes of bergamot, grapefruit, pink pepper, blackcurrant, pineapple, raspberry, and aldehydes are embraced with a heart of iris, orris butter, jasmine, and rose, while the base consists of rare and luxurious oud vanilla, cedarwood, solar notes, musk, and patchouli. Creed Royal Princess Oud EDP 75ml, R6 299 “A solar perfume as vibrant as the Greek sky, leaving on the skin a warm trail, like a memory of a dive in the Ionian Sea”, Memo Corfu EDP is inspired by the many smells associated with the island — bergamot, tangerine, grapefruit, rose oil, patchouli, jasmine, ambrette seeds, sandalwood, tonka bean, blackcurrant, raspberry, peach, cedarwood, musk, lily of the valley, rhubarb, and geranium. The packaging is made of 80% recycled paper and sustainable cellophane. Memo Corfu EDP 75ml, R4 615

The limited edition Chanel N°5 EDP is the same juice as the iconic original — top notes of aldehydes, ylangylang, neroli, bergamot, and lemon; middle notes of iris, jasmine, rose, orris root, and lily-of-the-valley; and base notes of civet, amber, sandalwood, musk, moss, vetiver, vanilla, and patchouli. The celebratory edition comes in a recycled glass bottle, while the box is made of biodegradable paper pulp. Chanel N°5 EDP 100ml, R3 075

S C E N T- S AT I O N S Write new memories with these magical notes Inspired by the small Nordic port of Flåm, where cosy homes nestle beyond the northern lights, Memo Flam EDP is a fragrance of contrasts. Bergamot, bitter orange, aromatic clary sage, and sambac jasmine create a rush of bright freshness. Cedarwood adds vibrancy, while tonka bean and vanilla, paired with amber and sweet white musk add a comforting finish. Memo Flam EDP 75ml, R4 615

94

Versace Dylan Turquoise is a fragrance that conjures up faraway islands, sunny days, and a warm sea breeze. Think lemon, pink pepper, mandarin orange, guava, freesia, cassis, and jasmine, and base notes of clearwood, musk, and cedar. Versace Dylan Turquoise EDT 100ml, R1 890

Rivières De Cartier EDT comprises three fragrances, each representing a river: Insouciance, the gently flowing river that carries notes of iris and violets; Allégresse, a rippling river with happy floral accords of night hyacinth, tuberose petitgrain, and bergamot, accentuated by black currant; and Luxuriance, a rich, bursting river and source of wild botanical freshness: fern, wild pistachio, mastic, oak, rosemary, geranium, and wild herbs. The flacons are refillable, and the raw material of the outer packaging is obtained from sustainably managed forests. Rivières de Cartier EDT 100ml, R1 940

An elegant floral, Acqua di Parma Le Nobile Peonia Nobile EDP is inspired by the multi-faceted peony — delicate yet exuberant.

Top notes are black pepper and raspberry accord with a heart of peony accord, Egyptian geranium, freesia accord, and Turkish rose, rounded off with ambery accord, patchouli Indonesia, and musk.

Acqua di Parma Le Nobile Peonia Nobile EDP 100ml, R3 199

When you try a new perfume, you are trying a scent that has no associations, so it gives you the possibility to make new ones and write new memories” — Dr Alfredo Fontanini, neuroscientist

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

W W J L / 2 0 21

SPLENDOUR DIGEST

A marvellous retreat from the world, tips for when your jewellery pieces need some TLC, the fragrance he needs right now, and more

BESPOKE GIFTING SERVICE Whether it’s a delicate sparkly jewel or a luxury timepiece from one of the world’s most prestigious Swiss watch brands, unwrapping a specially chosen gift is all part of the experience of giving and receiving. The Arthur Kaplan flagship store in Sandton City has taken gifting to a new level: here you will receive personalised service as you shop in a safe and luxurious space for statement or timeless jewellery pieces and premium watch brands, including Hublot, Longines, Rado, Frédérique Constant, Victorinox, Tissot, Michel Herbelin, and Seiko. Arthur Kaplan Sandton City

The Jewellery Council of South Africa ( JCSA) was formally recognised as a representative body by the government in 1987. Today, the JCSA is a non-profit company that serves the entire South African jewellery industry, from customers, manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers, companies, and jewellery-related services to industry bodies. When you buy jewellery from one of the 1 580 accredited members, you can buy with confidence, as each seller is bound to act in accordance with the JCSA’s Code of Ethics and Conduct — this means a fair market price, and responsible, ethical, and sustainable sourcing.

The JCSA is also a one-stop portal for consumer advice, offering all sorts of useful information including knowing your gems and jewels, how to care for them, valuation advice, and what to consider when buying watches and jewels.

When handing a piece of jewellery in for repair 1. Make sure that you receive a remittance slip, which gives full details of the article, for example 15cm, 18kt gold Gucci chain with Italian clasp.

2. If there is a diamond or other precious stone set in the article, request that the jeweller inspect it to confirm it is in fact a precious stone.

3. In the case of a pearl necklace, make sure that the pearls are counted, since re-strung pearls may result in the string being shorter because it’s tighter. jewellery.org.za

TH E S C E NT O F VI CTO RY Renowned for its edgy, unique fragrances, Creed delivers another powerful punch with Viking Cologne, the new scent for him. Designed for the modern explorer, it’s a celebration of journeys to unexplored territories and nomadic royalty. The aromatic interpretation of these men defying the rules is a fragrance that is fougère, which means “fern-like”, describing one of the main fragrance families. A masterful alchemy of dry sandalwood, zesty bergamot, and earthy vetiver, this scent is held together by a mix of citrus fruit and a woody base. “The jus of the Viking Cologne perfume has been an obsession for us,” explains Erwin Creed, who created the fragrance with his father, sixth-generation master perfumer Olivier Creed. “It is so close to the Creed DNA that we wanted to explore a twist of Viking for summer, where the freshness bursts from the perfume, exuding an energising scent that is full of adventure.” Don’t think of Viking Cologne as a lighter version of the warm and dense Millesime Viking, rather a “juicier” partner.

Creed Millesime Viking EDP 100ml R5 699 and 50ml R5 299 Creed Viking Cologne EDP 100ml R6 499 and 50ml R5 299

95

Know your jewels

W W J L / 2 0 21

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

A masterclass in luxury If you revel in the luxe life, check in to the Owner’s Villa at Delaire Graff in the Cape winelands.

One of the most exclusive private residences in Southern Africa, the 660m², four-bedroom villa has been designed to provide you with the ultimate escape. Surrounded by art and cocooned in luxury, you can soak up the magnificent views of Botmaskop to the south and Table Mountain to the west while lazing in the jacuzzi or doing laps in the 14m heated infinity pool.

For a visual feast of another kind, the villa also serves as an art gallery, housing more than 70 works from owner Laurence Graff’s private collection.

Then there’s the state-of-the-art Assirelli kitchen, family room with home theatre facilities, walk-in wine cellar, opulent furnishings, en-suite marble bathrooms for each of the bedrooms, walk-in dressing rooms, and private terraces. To ensure every whim is catered for, in addition to full service and housekeeping, you have a butler, private chef, and personal concierge service. This is luxury and privacy on a whole new level… delaire.co.za/stay/lodges/owners-villa

LEAVING A LEGACY

96

In a show of gratitude, Andile Dyalvane, globally acclaimed ceramicist and co-founder of Imiso Ceramics, and the Sanlam Private Wealth Bakusasa Change Agents Trust have joined forces to put future generations first Sanlam Private Wealth’s collaboration with Andile Dyalvane is rooted in the strong similarities between his wisdom and considered practice when it comes to crafting his once-off ceramic pieces, and their approach to crafting customised private client portfolios to grow and protect wealth.

Dyalvane is guided by “camagu,” the isiXhosa word for gratitude. This ethos connects him to a deep lineage that tracks from the past, through to the present and into the future, embodying the continual creative journey that runs from his ancestors all the way through to future generations.

For Dyalvane, “camagu” is represented by an infinite line that reminds him to craft a legacy for those that are yet to come.

It’s the principle of “camagu” that forms the foundation of the new partnership between Dyalvane, Imiso Ceramics, and the Sanlam Private Wealth Bakusasa Trust. Through a network of fundraising initiatives, their plan is to update, upgrade, and

maintain infrastructure at Dyalvane’s former primary school in the rural parts of the Eastern Cape.

Through a phased approach, the partnership aims to ensure a brighter future for the next generation by providing them with healthy food, creative education programmes and playground and classroom spaces that are conducive to learning and fun.

Keep an eye on sanlamprivatewealth.com and wantedonline.co.za to stay abreast of fundraising progress and future news about this project.

Should you wish to contribute to this initiative, please make a donation to the Bakusasa Trust by scanning the QR code. The trust is a public benefit organisation (PBO) as approved by the South African Revenue Service and is managed by Sanlam Private Wealth. Scan to donate using your ABSA, Nedbank or Capitec apps, or download the Zapper app.

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

THE HERITAGE COLLECTION

The new Grand Seiko GMT watch series is a nod to nature’s changing seasons. In Japan, each of the four seasons of the year is experienced in six phases, and all have distinct characters. The GMT watches celebrate one of the year’s 24 seasonal phases or sekki: Shunbun (spring), Shõsho (summer), Kanro (autumn), and Tõji (winter). The Shunbun and Shõsho versions feature the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT calibre 9S86, while the Spring Drive GMT calibre 9R66 powers the Kanro and Tõji creations. grand-seiko.com/us-en/special/japanseasons

98

SUMMER LOVI N’ Lazy summer days and beach vibes call for a sultry fragrance to match. And even if you’re not seaside, it’s easy enough to conjure up the views if you’re enveloped in the right scent. The Mediterranean Sea and its culture is encapsulated in Versace Dylan Blue. The version for women — Dylan Blue Pour Femme, an EDP — has an unusual fruity accord that comes from a blackcurrant sorbet, Granny Smith apples, and peach, while the floral addition is an interesting mix of wild blooms — eglantine rose, pétalia, jasmine, forget-me-not, clover, and rosy folia. The base notes of styrax and white woods, musk, and patchouli give it a sensuous finish. “It is my tribute to femininity. I created a strong, sensuous yet refined fragrance for a woman who knows her own power,” says Donatella Versace.

The partner scent for him, Dylan Blue Pour Homme EDT, combines bergamot and grapefruit with fig leaf for that Mediterranean freshness. Violet leaves and black pepper add a masculine dimension, while ambrox, papyrus, and organic patchouli give it heat, and tonka bean, saffron, and pyrogéné incense and musk impart a sensuous edge. “It takes traditional notes and scents and makes them totally modern, totally fresh for today — and tomorrow,” Versace says.

THE BEST OF BOSCHENDAL

W W J L / 2 0 21

With a history dating back to 1685, Boschendal is one of the Western Cape’s oldest wine farms.

This year was particularly good as the estate not only celebrated 40 years of Brut Cap Classique but also saw 11 of its wines receive scores of 90 points and more in Tim Atkin’s 2021 report on South African wine. Atkin, one of the world’s leading wine critics, considered more than 1 800 South African wines for this year’s report.

If you’re looking to stock your cellar or gift a wine-lover with something exceptional, consider Nicholas. The 2017 Nicholas is a blend of 41% shiraz (a signature variety for Boschendal), 30% merlot, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 11% petit Verdot, and 3% malbec, and each cultivar is vinified separately to add its own special quality to the blend. The shiraz’s plummy, spicy notes give depth; the malbec and merlot offer vibrant fruit and colour; while the cabernet and petit verdot lend structure. The 2016 Nicholas includes 3% cabernet franc.

While both vintages can be enjoyed now, a few years of cellaring will allow them to develop even further. boschendalwines.com

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

THE GIRL WITH THE PEARL EARRING €250 ½ KG SILVER COIN

The Monnaie de Paris pays tribute to some of the most beautiful works that have been made or exhibited in France since 2017. As the first piece this year, they have chosen to honour the renowned painting by Johannes Vermeer “The Girl with a Pearl Earring.”

This spectacular coin boasts the artwork in an actual depiction on the obverse, in full colour surrounded by an engraving of the real frame that completes the artwork illusion. Featured on the coin is also the artist’s name, his birth and death dates and the year the coin was minted. The reverse of the coin is common to the series released by the Monnaie de Paris, depicting several views of many major French museums.

VISIT US AT: THE SOUTH AFRICAN GOLD COIN EXCHANGE HEAD OFFICE  4TH FLOOR, ATRIUM ON 5TH, SANDTON, JHB · BROOKLYN MALL · SANDTON CITY · WALMER PARK · EASTGATE · SOMERSET WEST · GATEWAY MALL OF THE NORTH · LIBERTY MIDLANDS MALL · PAVILION MALL · CANAL WALK · V&A WATERFRONT

SHOP ONLINE AT

| CALL 011 784 8551 | T’S & C’S APPLY

LUXURY NOTEBOOK

W W J L / 2 0 21

A bright new future

SIGNATURE STATEMENT Fresh, clean, sensuous — the aromatic woody Bleu de Chanel is an intense yet refreshing masculine scent, a provocative blend of citrus and wood. It comes in a full line of shaving and body products for an intensified scent throughout the day.

Bleu de Chanel EDP 100ml, R2 400

Breitling has introduced a foldable, reusable watch box created entirely from upcycled plastic bottles, effectively reinventing packaging in the watch industry. The sustainable packaging has already been awarded an Efficient Solution Label by the Solar Impulse Foundation, as it is a solution that has a positive impact on the environment and the economy.

From the fabric to the buttons that open it, the new watch box is made from 100% upcycled polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles.

PET is one of the most widely recycled types of plastic. The box can be recycled at a dedicated facility where it will be fed back into the PET recycling cycle. Breitling is able to ship the new boxes directly to its markets, meaning that the average distance a box travels is reduced by almost 30%. The fact that the box can be unfolded and shipped flat also means a reduction in transport-related CO2 emissions of more than 60%. What we also love is that the pillow inside the box can be used as a travel pouch. As Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, says in the company’s Sustainability: The 2021 Mission Report, “A vision is nothing without action. We started working on a sustainable packaging concept with the goal of optimising the impact on the environment, and the result has exceeded our ambitions,” he says. “It has evolved into a positively disruptive element that has affected many different aspects of our packaging, ranging from material to transport and even to how customers will use the box.”

He adds that what is clear about sustainability efforts is “not only how much work we have done to date — but also how much is left to do.” breitling.com

THE GOLD STANDARD

1 100 00

When Rael Demby’s father, Alan, started The Scoin Shop in 1975, his vision was “one man, one ounce” “Over the years he built up this warm, inviting space where people could come and learn about gold and feel comfortable buying it. He really was all about democratising gold,” says Rael Demby, who spent time at Alan’s side from when he was a schoolboy. Now Rael is CEO of The Scoin Shop — the largest distributor of gold coins in South Africa and the only gold coin retail chain in the world — and those Krugerrands that went for R500 back in the ’70s are worth more than R27 000 a coin.

“For the last 6 000 years, gold has proved to be a safe asset. For South Africans, it’s a comfort. We are familiar with gold; we understand it. It has heritage and legacy. It has tangibility. It gives people comfort, and we know that it’s a hedge against everything we may or may not have invested.”

What Demby really enjoys about the industry is watching how people build their collections — and, in doing so, their wealth. “I have clients who started out with one Krugerrand and now have coin collections worth over R15-million.

The beauty of accumulation is the most rewarding part of our industry — it’s not

about investing or speculating. It’s about accumulating and always buying when you get a chance.”

A collector at heart himself, Demby says long-term investing is about building a legacy, but he also believes that collecting should be something that you enjoy. “Collectors always land up doing

better than investors or speculators in that category. I believe it’s because they do it for the right reasons, like the enjoyment of chasing those special coins.”

Over the years, Demby has focused on modernising the business to ensure he can continue the legacy and his father’s vision of making gold accessible. He has introduced an online store, stateof-the-art payment facilities, trading on eBay and Takealot, and acceptance of cryptocurrencies.

For newbies to the world of numismatics, Demby’s advice is to stick to the principle of diversification.

“In our realm of gold coins, we advise people to buy collectables, such as proof Krugerrands or modern numismatics and bullion, which is a regular Krugerrand.

We suggest weighting that with 70% in favour of bullion and 30% collectibles.

That gives people the opportunity to chase down coins that they like but also have a more mainstream approach to their goals.” scoinshop.com

C O L L A B O R AT I O N

W W J L / 2 0 21

THE JOURNEY IS THE DESTINATION Parisian fragrance house Memo was launched in 2007 by Clara Molloy, a Parisian-Catalan poet, and her husband, John, a sporty Irish globetrotter. With travel their passion, every fragrance released by the house is steeped in memories of visits to far-flung destinations, experiences in unique places, encounters with different cultures, and new ingredients. The name Memo is from memory, like a souvenir. Memo charts a sensory map through four collections: Les Échappées is a collection of six mooring points leading from Paris to the heart of Burma; Cuirs Nomades explores a leather note through seven destinations, from Africa to Italy; Graines Vagabondes is all about the scent of natural seeds such as sesame, still a rarity in perfumery; while Art Land pays tribute to mysterious territories and how humankind shapes and changes spaces in an artistic way.

SUPREME SKINCARE

Based in Oman, international fine-fragrance company Amouage was founded at the behest of the Sultan Qaboos, with the intention of preserving the perfume-making traditions in the region. He also wanted to have a personal and authentic gift for leaders visiting the country. Amouage Gold soon became synonymous with luxury, exclusivity, and glamour. The name Amouage comes from the Arabic word amwaj, which means waves, and the French word for love, amour – in combination meaning “waves of emotions”.

Amouage Overture Man EDP 100ml, R5 550 CLASSIC NOTES In opera, the overture is an instrumental opening that sets the mood before the curtain rises and the singers enter on stage. It gives the listeners an idea of what’s to come.

In the story of Overture Man by Amouage, a rather romantic picture is sketched of a well-dressed gentleman attending the opera. He takes his seat, but before the orchestra finishes the overture, a stranger taps him on the shoulder, and he rises and exits quietly. All that’s left is a bow-tie and his lingering scent… a rich, woody scent. The opening notes are described as “boozy” due to the flush of cognac, which is tempered by grapefruit, cardamom, cumin, ginger, nutmeg, and saffron. The floral heart includes geranium and patchouli, while the masculine, smoky base contains frankincense, sandalwood, smoky leather, and clary sage.

101 101

THE STORY OF AMOUAGE

A Swiss vision of beauty, La Prairie is the ultimate in premium skincare.

The ranges are a true reflection of the brand philosophy of “inspired by nature, mastered by science”.

La Prairie Platinum Rare Haute-Rejuvenation Protocol is a month-long rejuvenation treatment designed to wake up skin cells and create new skin tissue. The key to this complex beauty miracle is the platinum multi-peptide that helps activate collagen production, which in turn strengthens the skin barrier, improves moisture balance, and enhances cellular longevity.

La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream is infused with potent Swiss caviar extract for the ultimate in lifting and firming. It’s an extremely rich and nourishing moisturiser, and has become a rather iconic product due to its transformative effects. The Skin Caviar range was reformulated with the Caviar Premier extract in 2018, followed by the Skin Caviar Luxe Eye Cream in 2019, taking the brand to new levels of beauty mastery.

La Prairie Platinum Rare HauteRejuvenation Protocol, R34 200 La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream 50ml, R9 120

COMPETITION

WIN

W W J L / 2 0 21

THIS EYE-CATCHING PENDANT WITH A 5.28CT PEAR-SHAPED KUNZITE AND NINE BAGUETTECUT DIAMONDS TOTALLING 0.16CT IN 9KT WHITE GOLD ON A 9KT WHITE GOLD ANCHOR CHAIN

VALUED AT

R23 000

TO ENTER SMS the keywords “Jewellery Council” together with your answer to the question, your full name and email address to 33279 (SMS costs R1.50) QUESTION What is the name of the pink pear-shaped gem?

1 102 02

CLOSING DATE 31 January 2022

For a list of jewellers in your area, call 011 484 5528, visit jewellery.org.za or email admin@jewellery.org.za

TERMS & CONDITIONS: SMSes charged at R1.50 each. Errors billed. The competition starts at 8am on 27 November 2021 and ends at 8am on 31 January 2022. The prize must be taken up (or rejected) as awarded and cannot be transferred to any other person, sold, or converted to cash. The competition is open to all residents of South Africa over 18 years of age, except employees of Arena Holdings or The Jewellery Council of South Africa. Your contact details will be kept private and not used for any marketing purposes.

W W J L / 2 0 21

American Swiss americanswiss.co.za

Fope charlesgreig.co.za 021 418 4515

Amouage Skins Cosmetic Stores skins.co.za Arc Store Sandton City arcstore.co.za selected high-end boutiques and perfumeries

Frédérique Constant Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500

Blancpain blancpain.com available at Elegance Jewellers ejewels.co.za 011 784 0047 and Tanur Jewellers V&A Waterfront 021 418 5524 BMW bmw.co.za 0800 600 555 Boschendal boschendalwines.com 021 870 4200 Breguet breguet.com available from Elegance Jewellers ejewels.co.za 011 684 1380 and Tanur Jewellers V&A Waterfront 021 418 5524 Breitling breitling.com info@breitling.co.za 087 822 2195 Bvlgari high jewellery, watches & accessories available from Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 Bvlgari Boutique Sandton City 011 883 1325 Cartier Cartier Boutique Shop Diamond Walk, Sandton City 011 666 2800 Chanel Fragrance and Beauty Boutique, Sandton City, V&A Waterfront and Menlyn Park Charles Greig charlesgreig.co.za 011 325 4477/021 418 4515 Chopard available from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Creed Skins Cosmetics skins.co.za Dior available from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Dolce&Gabbana Sandton City 011 326 7808

Graff graff.com H. Moser & Cie available exclusively from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Hublot available from World’s Finest Watches worldsfinest.co.za Arthur Kaplan Sandton 011 783 4637/38 Murdocks 021 419 0302 The Diamondworks at OR Tambo International thediamondworks.co.za IWC Elegance Jewellers Sandton 011 784 0012 Melrose Arch 011 684 1380 Charles Greig V&A Waterfront 021 418 4515 Arthur Kaplan Gateway 031 566 6741 Jaeger-LeCoultre jaeger-lecoultre.com Charles Greig V&A Waterfront 021 418 4515 Elegance Jewellers Sandton 011 784 0047 Elegance Jewellers Melrose Arch 011 684 1380 La Prairie selected Edgars and Woolworths woolworths.co.za Longines available from Arthur Kaplan arthurkaplan.co.za 011 669 5600 Memo Skins Cosmetic Stores skins.co.za Arc Store Sandton City arcstore.co.za Messika available from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 OMEGA omegawatches.com Panerai panerai.com Charles Greig V&A Waterfront 021 418 4515 Elegance Jewellers Sandton 011 784 0047 Elegance Jewellers Melrose Arch 011 684 1380 Elegance Jewellers Bedford Centre 011 615 6602

The Vault Menlyn Park 012 348 1649 Charles Greig Hyde Park 011 325 4477 Parmigiani available from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Patek Philippe by GMT 011 784 2595 patekphilippe@gmtafrica.com Pomellato available from Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Rado available from Arthur Kaplan arthurkaplan.co.za 011 669 5600 Rolex rolex.com Sanlam Private Wealth 021 950 2770 info@privatewealth.sanlam.co.za Shemer shemer.co.za 011 622 4735 St Leger & Viney stleger.co.za TAG Heuer available from Picot & Moss

Dolce&Gabbana Alta Gioielleria collection

picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 TAG Heuer Boutiques Sandton City 011 784 7422 V&A Waterfront 021 421 8539 The Scoin Shop scoinshop.com 067 008 3784/011 784 8551 Tudor tudorwatch.com Ulysse Nardin available from Architects of Time 011 669 0790 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889 Versace available from selected retailers Zenith available from Picot & Moss picotandmoss.co.za 011 669 0500 Boutique Haute Horlogerie bhhboutique.co.za Hyde Park 011 325 4119 V&A Waterfront 021 418 1889

All prices correct at time of going to press

103

Acqua di Parma available from selected Woolworths stores woolworths.co.za

STOCKI STS

THE LAST WORD

W W J L / 2 0 21

THE SKY’S THE

There are certain watch designs that every collector covets: a diver’s watch, a chronograph…

But near the top of most wish lists there will always be the pilot’s watch. With Tom Cruise soon to be starring in a new instalment in the Top Gun franchise, we take a close look at the iconic watch bearing the same name

LIMIT

The inner workings of the extraordinary Big Pilot Shock Absorber XPL.

104

From the pioneering days of flying to the supersonic jets used in naval aviation today, pilots operate under extreme conditions in cramped cockpits surrounded by sharp-edged metal objects.

Therefore, extraordinary robustness has always been one of the most important functional requirements for IWC’s pilot’s watches.

In recent years, IWC has taken that robustness to ever-greater heights, and the creation of a material called Ceratanium has pushed the boundaries in this engineering journey. Ceratanium is a ground-breaking new material that is light and robust like titanium, and hard and scratch-resistant like ceramic.

This year saw the launch of the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium as well as the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar in sand-coloured ceramic editions known as “Mojave Desert”.

The shock absorber

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun “Mojave Desert”

TEXT JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY IMAGES SUPPLIED

The Ceratanium revolution

Possibly the most innovative of the IWC Big Pilot’s watches ever to be released is the Shock Absorber XPL — the first watch to feature the brand’s patented new shock-absorber system. Developed over a period of eight years, the SPRIN-g PROTECT system is based on a cantilever spring that suspends the movement inside the case. Thanks to its perfect form and the use of bulk metallic glass, the spring protects the movement against the g-force generated during impact. The spring cushions the movement, allowing it to keep moving independently of the case before bringing it to a stop more gently. The manufacturing process of this pilot’s watch is so complex, IWC will only be making 10 a year and 30 in total.

Back to the future

IWC

has been synonymous with aviation and the manufacture of pilot’s watches since 1936. That very first pilot’s watch took all the practical needs of the aviator into consideration; it had shatter-proof glass and large numbers to make it easy to read the time. Most importantly, it was anti-magnetic for extra precision. So began the making of an icon in the world of luxury watches. IWC’s first Top Gun pilot’s watch was manufactured in 2007. Oddly enough, it bears no relation to the movie starring Top Cruise, which was only released much later, in 1986. Both take their name from the legendary Navy Fighter Weapons School, commonly known as TOPGUN, where the US Navy trains pilots. IWC is now the only watch brand officially licensed to work on watches for the entire US Navy and Marine Corps, including TOPGUN, Blue Angels, and the 247 active and 100 inactive squadrons.

One of IWC’s first pilot’s watches, the giant 431 Big Pilot contains a pocketwatch movement so large that it can be worn over the pilot’s jacket while flying. The 431’s clear dial makes it easy to read the exact time as well as your exact position. When the 431 came out in the ’30s, watch movements were big to ensure accuracy. This same DNA of precision and functionality that started back then still exists in all of today’s versions of IWC’s iconic aviator’s watch.

EXCEPTIONAL MOMENTS CALL FOR EXCEPTIONAL

BREGUET.COM

breguet inventor of the tourbillon

MARINE 5887