Wanted: the watches and jewellery edition

wanted 2017/18

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

watches, jewellery and luxury

Kathryn May Fine Jewellery collection available at Elegance

modern

M A S T E R P I EC E S 2017/18

THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS

EDDIE R E DM AY N E ’ S CHOICE

SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA MASTER CHRONOMETER

News from the glittering world of gems and watches

16 Win a ring worth R35 000, courtesy of the Jewellery Council of South Africa

72 EIGHT OF THE BEST

The tales behind our luxury jewellery boutiques

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This year’s watches, their stories, and the trends

91 GIFT IDEAS

88 The super scents we’re spritzing this season

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76 HIGH FLYING ADORNED

Fine jewellery you’ll be passing down to the next generation

wanted ed wanted ed wanted wanted wanted 2017/18

2017/18

2017/18

watches, jewellery and luxury

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

watches, jewellery and luxury

2017/18

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

watches, jewellery and luxury

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

watches, jewellery and luxury

2017/18

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

WJL reports back from the world’s watch and jewellery fairs

EDITOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly (myburghj@tisoblackstar.co.za) MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure 011 280 5605 or 082 446 0747 (mcclurem@tisoblackstar.co.za) ART DIRECTOR Nicol Paterson BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi (thusin@tisoblackstar.co.za) SUBEDITOR Joey Kok FINAL EYE Theresa Mallinson EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR Sinead Martin CONTRIBUTORS Jenny Andrew, Gary Cotterell, Malcolm Dare, Alice Edy, Bianca Theron, Nonkuthalo Thithi BUSINESS DAY EDITOR Tim Cohen PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras GROUP GENERAL MANAGER Sales and Marketing Reardon Sanderson MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill BUSINESS MANAGER & ADVERTISING HEAD Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 (shaffy@timesmedia.co.za) ADVERTISING ASSISTANT Yvette Mehl 021 439 4907 (yvette@yvonneshaff.co.za) Printed by Paarl Media for Tiso Blackstar Group, 16 Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193

Jewellery design trends for Summer 2017/18 WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND LUXURY

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for the man who has it all

WJL EDITION 2017/18

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CONTENTS

contents

watches, jewellery and luxury

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40, 18ct Everose gold, diamond paved dial with sapphire, tsavorite and diamond bezel on Oysterflex bracelet.

Coriandoli three-band ring with blue topaz, citrine quartz, peridot and rhodolite garnet in 18kt white gold

by Bulgari

Kathryn May Fine Jewellery collection available at Elegance

Diamond and Emerald Necklace by Charles Greig. African Emeralds supplied by Gemfields.

Blancpain Quantième Perpétuel 8 Jours and Quantième Complet

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CHARLES GREIG Necklace with facetted African emeralds supplied by Gemfields, and a 7ct pear-cut diamond drop, price on request, Charles Greig

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THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS

modern

2017/18

BULGARI Coriandoli three-band ring with blue topaz, citrine quartz, peridot, and rhodolite garnet in 18kt white gold, R135 000, Bulgari

THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS

M A S T E R P I EC E S 2017/18

An ode to the written word

ROLEX Rolex Oyster Perpetual YachtMaster 40, 18ct Everose gold, diamond paved dial, bezel set with 32 sapphires, 8 tsavorites and 1 diamond at 12 o’clock on Oysterflex bracelet, R1 100 400

M A S T E R P I EC E S

2017/18

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THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS

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THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS 2017/18

Stockists

2017/18

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modern

M A S T E R P I EC E S

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M A S T E R P I EC E S

M A S T E R P I EC E S THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS WATCHES AND GEMS

ELEGANCE JEWELLERS Kathryn May fine jewellery collection, price on request, Elegance Jewellers

BLANCPAIN (From left) Blancpain Quantième Perpétuel 8 jours, R657 700; Blancpain Quantième Complet, R322 900

heritage

ed’s letter THE LEGACY OF BRANDS

How fabulous is the world, when some of the world’s leading luxury brands are available from glittering boutiques right here on our shores? But equally exciting is the fact that there’s an African brand of luxury on the rise that has world class written all over it. We want to salute these local heroes creating a luxury legacy all of our own

SOUTH AFRICAN MINT p70 When the Krugerrand was launched 50 years ago, who would have guessed that we’d be celebrating the golden jubilee of the most popular bullion coin in the world today?

RARE EARTH p54 Svetla Stephens of Rare Earth Creations realised that there was a real shortage of gemstone setters and engravers in the local jewellery industry. So she did something about it, launching a programme within her manufacturing business to train new specialists in these areas. So simple, so genius.

W

hen I approached visual artist and literature master’s student Alice Edy to create the final page of this magazine — it’s a handwritten delight; flip to the back page now and have a look — she was delighted to learn about the heritage theme of this year’s special edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury.

Because, despite all of our daily engagement with screens and the almost obsessive race toward the next technological leap, it’s the finely crafted instruments — such as Swiss timepieces and designer pens, each one representing decades of history and innovation — that we all return to when feeding our souls.

And this year, almost as one, the leading watch brands of the world have turned to their archives to inspire the future.

It’s in referencing our heritage that we can plot the next step.

This special edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury is a tribute to the history of great brands. It’s also a gentle reminder that all good things take time, and that true luxury will last forever.

Jacquie wantedonline.co.za

METCON p43 GEMFIELDS p14 From the sands of Mozambique and Zambia come rubies and emeralds that have the world of fine jewellery sitting up and taking serious notice. Mining and marketing specialists Gemfields is putting Africa on the map as a leading supplier of responsibly sourced gemstones.

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In troubled times, finding a safe store of wealth makes sense, right? How much better when that safe store is a beautifully designed work of art too?

MetCon’s already brought us solid gold Nguni cattle for lobola, sparkling gold and silver money cowries, and art-embellished gold bars. I can’t wait to see what it does next.

PICKS

E D I TO R ’ S

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR

+41 21 642 32 66 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

IN YELLOW GOLD

JOHANNESBURG: HYDE PARK +27 11 325 4119 | CAPE TOWN: V&A WATERFRONT +27 21 418 1889

contributors IN MEMORY OF JENNY ANDREW

MALCOLM DARE PHOTOGRAPHER

The one watch you’ve always wanted to own? A Rolex from the Daytona collection. This watch has a timeless style and is the epitome of quality and durability, while still having that everyday wearability.

A piece of jewellery you would love to inherit? My father always wore a Rolex, and that’s the one watch I would have liked to inherit.

C O N T R I BU TO R S

ILLUSTRATION NICK WALSH

It is with a heavy but grateful heart that we dedicate this special edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury to the memory of our dear colleague Jenny Andrew.

Jenny was one of the founding contributors to Wanted magazine, and she styled the five beautiful covers of the magazine you’re holding in your hands.

As one of the leading fashion stylists in South Africa, Jenny and the exquisite images she created played an inspiring role in all of our lives — her unique personal style, her knowledge of art, design, culture, luxury, and fashion, as well as meticulous dedication to her work all combined to take her audience to creative places few can achieve.

As a colleague and friend, Jenny was kind, generous, consistent, and sincere — qualities outsiders rarely associate with the world of fashion, but that do exist!

She was also witty, entertaining, and enthusiastic — long after the rest of us had run out of gas. No glamorous fashion event was complete until you’d shared a glass of bubbly and a catch-up with her.

Farewell, Jenny, from your Wanted family.

NOKUBONGA THUSI

SINEAD MARTIN

GARY COTTERELL

NONKUTHALO THITHI

The one watch you’ve always wanted to own? The Michael Kors Access smartwatches.

They’re stylish, easy to customise, and their functions surpass that of a normal watch — who doesn’t want a personal assistant all day?

A piece of jewellery you would love to inherit? My mother’s wedding rings — they’re the most beautiful things.

The one watch you’ve always wanted to own? I simply adore the Ballon Bleu de Cartier. Its case shape is uniquely feminine for Cartier, with an elegantly integrated sapphire cabochon crown. It’s wonderfully modern.

A piece of jewellery you would love to inherit? Sadly no one in my family owns any Graff diamonds, but I’ll settle for any piece that passes down a story.

The one watch you’ve always wanted to own? I love the sporty elegance of the original 1970s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. It was a revolutionary design for its time. But I’m more than happy with my classic, birthyear Tudor Prince Oysterdate.

A piece of jewellery you would love to inherit? My greatgrandfather’s gold pocket watch.

The one watch you’ve always wanted to own? A Cartier Tank Solo — the timeless classic feel is something I would love to have. It would work beautifully anytime of day, and can be an addition to any outfit.

A piece of jewellery you would love to inherit? A charm bracelet. I like the idea of each generation adding a little something to a piece.

CO-ORDINATOR

FRAGRANCES

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WATCHES

JEWELS

IT’S PRIME TIME FOR WA T C H S H O P P I N G S h op ping fo r a new w a t ch ha s ju st beco me a l o t mo r e sa t i sf y i ng with the l aunch o f t he Pr i me T i me lu xu r y - watch bo utiqu e s i n Ga u t e ng and Cape Town. Wit h a w ho le ho st of wa tch brands in o ne st y li sh emp orium, yo u can ma ke t he r i g ht d e c isio n fo r y o ur ne e ds a nd st y le .

Pr i me T ime is ho me t o ma ny t o p watch brands , such a s Ta g He u e r, M ich el H erbel in, R ay mo nd We i l, and R o tar y. Al s o l o o k o u t fo r w ha t the leading fashio n ho u se s, su ch as Marc Jaco bs , Ar ma ni , a nd M ich ael Ko rs , are d o i ng w he n i t c om es to watchmak i ng . Pr i me T i me bou tiques can be fou nd i n Ca na l Walk , Menly n Park, a nd Va a l M a ll. p r im e- time.co .za

The Michel Herbelin Newport Connect multi-functional smartwatch with a Swiss movement, from R13 500. Michel Herbelin watches are among the brands available at Prime Time boutiques in Cape Town, Pretoria, and Vereeniging

STYLE DIARY

upfront

STAY CONNECTED

P

owered by the award-winning tech team Martian Watches, the Guess Connect smartwatch is here. This stylish piece of wearable tech comes with voice-command functions and is compatible with both iOS and Android operating systems. A microphone and super-clear speaker mean you can connect to your smartphone’s voice-command app. You can also customise the notifications received on the watch, recall the most recent one with a tap of the watch glass, and create customisable vibration patterns to distinguish the type of alert that’s coming in, making the watch more intuitive and creating another level of efficiency.

Guess Connect Fitness Watch 41mm, R3 395. Powered by Google Android wear 2.0 and Qualcomm Snapdragon wear 2100, the Guess Connect Smartwatch is here and set to launch in South Africa early 2018.

THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

It ’s party season, and that means it ’s time to diarise Veronica Anderson’s summer jewellery exhibition. A unique boutique-cum-gallery that showcases the handmade work of some of South Africa’s leading jewellery artists, Veronica Anderson Jewellery is this year exploring that most glamorous of neckpieces: the rivière. Made popular in the Edwardian era, the short, single strand of same-size gemstones has reached cult status in recent years thanks to US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, who loves to pile on a few in bright, sparkly colours. Now Veronica Anderson has challenged local designers to create a contemporary interpretation of the classic. The rivière exhibition opens on November 15 at Veronica Anderson Jewellery, Shop 7, The Firs Rosebank, Oxford Road, Johannesburg. veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za View South African designers’ interpretation of the rivière necklace at Veronica Anderson Jewellery

Earrings from the new Fabergé collection, now available locally

The House of Fabergé was founded in Russia in 1842 — and is now opening in South Africa.

The jewellers to the tsars have immortalised their legendary jewel-encrusted and enamelled eggs in a heritage collection that includes delightful mini eggs on earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. faberge.com

There’s a new sparkle in town, and it’s called Supernova Moissanite. Exclusive to American Swiss jewellers, Supernova Moissanite by Moi Moi is an elegant collection of classic designs, featuring a gem that’s currently making the jewellery world sit up and take notice. Discovered by French scientist and Nobel Prize winner Henri Moissan in the desert sands of Arizona, moissanite is being touted as the ethically sourced jewel of the future — most notably because it has all the brilliance, clarity, and hardness associated with the diamond.

American Swiss will also be offering clients the opportunity to fashion their own customised piece of moissanite jewellery in collaboration with professional designers. americanswiss.co.za

Supernova Moissanite by Moi Moi at American Swiss features a sparkling new gem that many people say rivals the diamond.

Shani ring with 2ct moissanite in 18kt white gold, R39 999, American Swiss

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MAKING HISTORY

competition

WIN

AN 18CT ROSE-GOLD RING SET WITH AN 18 X 14MM OVAL SMOKY QUARTZ AND 70 ROUND BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS TOTALLING 0.35CT, VALUED AT R35 000 WITH COMPLIMENTS FROM THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA

COCKTAIL HOUR Jewellery is a symbol of everlasting love and the ultimate expression of desire – it’s a gift that forms a lasting impression. Your jewellery purchase, no matter how big or small, is a precious one and deserves the attention and time to ensure that you’re truly getting a gift for life. That’s why it’s important that you consult a reputable jeweller, a member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa, to make sure that you get the best advice possible on your purchase. Our members abide by a code of ethics and conduct. Buy with confidence from an accredited Jewellery Council member.

For a list of jewellers in your area visit Jewellery.org.za, send an email to admin@jewellery.org.za or phone 011 484 5528.

TO ENTER: SMS the keywords “Jewellery Council”, together with your answer to the question, your full name and email address to 33279 (SMS Costs R1.50) QUESTION: What’s the theme of this year’s edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury?

CLOSING DATE: November 24 2017 TERMS & CONDITIONS: SMS charged at R1.50. Errors billed. The competition starts at 8am on Oct 27 and ends at 8am on Nov 24. The prize must be taken up (or rejected) as awarded and cannot be transferred to any other person, sold, or converted to cash. The competition is open to all residents of South Africa over 18 years of age, except employees of Tiso Blackstar Group or The Jewellery Council of South Africa. Your contact details will be kept private and not used for any marketing purposes.

watches

SHADOW play WHETHER IT BE FOR WORK OR PLAY, ANY ONE OF THE MAGNIFICENT TIMEPIECES FROM THIS SELECTION WILL BRING YOU OUT OF THE SHADOWS AND INTO THE LIGHT photography MALCOLM DARE styling GARY COTTERELL

PATEK PHILIPPE Patek Philippe is the last independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacturer and has been owned by the Stern family since 1932. A stainless-steel Patek Philippe 1518 with perpetual calendar and chronograph is reportedly the most expensive wristwatch ever sold on auction. The hammer went down on $11 136 642 at an auction in Geneva last year. Patek Philippe is best known for its legendary advertising slogan: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe.

You merely look after it for the next generation.”

Patek Philippe 4947G with annual calendar, price on request

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watches

VACHERON CONSTANTIN In June 2016, the first ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin platinum minute-repeater wristwatch (model 4261) was sold on auction at Christie’s New York for $605 000 — a world record for a Vacheron Constantin watch of this type. The property of an American gentleman, the 4261 was manufactured in 1951, and is one of the rarest and most desirable trophies in today’s collector’s market. In 2005, Vacheron designed what was reported to be the most complicated timepiece ever, in celebration of the company’s 250th anniversary. The Tour de l’Île features 834 working parts and 16 complications.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas automatic, with polished stainless-steel bezel set with 84 brilliant-cut diamonds, R380 000

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watch trends

BACK TO THE FUTURE

More than ever before, the leading watches of the world have delved back into history to find their path to the future t ext G ARY COT T E RE L L

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ostalgia and track record play a huge part in our endless fascination with all things mechanical, even more so when it comes to our engagement with mechanical watches. These miniature machines — built to accurately record the passing of time, highspeed chases, or navigate the seas — have been admired since the first balance wheels were set in motion. Brand provenance is essential to embellish the stories, and, more than ever before, “heritage” is the predominant industry theme this year.

ANNIVERSARIES There are some significant anniversaries this year, with brands reaffirming their standing by raiding archives: Cartier celebrates the 100th anniversary of its Tank, while Longines marks more than 185 years of keeping time. Through reimagined retro collections they hope to woo a new generation, while also delighting collectors.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Regarded as one of the “top three” in the world of watchmaking (alongside Vacheron and Patek), Audemars Piguet has made its mark with innovative designs and advanced technology. In 1925, Audemars produced the thinnest pocket watch in the world, followed by the world’s first-ever skeleton watch. In 1972, the launch of the Royal Oak, a luxury sports watch with a radical design, propelled Audemars into a league of its own. Since 1992, the Audemars Piguet Foundation has been contributing to forest conservation worldwide.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with dual time, price on request

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3 D AYS A U TO M AT I C ACC I A I O - 4 5 M M ( R E F. 6 74 )

PANERAI BO UTI QU E

SAN DTO N C IT Y

PA N E R A I . C O M

•

+ 27 1 1 784 0047

watches

INNOVATION While there are pieces that celebrate the evolution of modern wristwatches that have accompanied adventurers, playboys and girls, and jetsetters on land, sea, and in the air, when innovation is at the heart of an industry, there is, of course, plenty more to choose from, as manufacturers tempt us with thinner, more accurate, and more complicated tickers featuring new technology. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is a masterstroke, with its in-house BVL Caliber 362 at a remarkable 3.12mm, making it the thinnest striking watch in the world. Other highlights include the lightweight Panerai LAB-ID Carbotech Luminor 1950, the pebble-shaped Ressence Type 5, which eliminates conventional raised hands, and the hydro-hybrid watches from HYT. From sundials and hourglasses to silicon balance springs, as Tissot puts it: “Time doesn’t change, but the accuracy of its calculation gets greater with new technologies.”

BACK TO BASICS Brands eager to attract new customers are hoping to create an interest in mechanical watches among a younger audience, with more accessibly priced pieces, and less ostentatious designs: Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Club collection is a prime example.

With the growing concern for our ocean and desire for less showy, practical sports watches, a number of vintage-inspired dive watches, such as the Rado Captain Cook, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, were released this year. The all-steel update to the Tudor Black Bay is perfect for a distinguished young gent set on saving the big blue.

BREGUET “Breguet makes a watch that for 20 years never goes wrong, while the pitiful machine by which we live runs amiss and produces pain at least once a week,” Stendhal wrote in 1817. Best known for his novels Le Rouge et le Noir and La Chartreuse de Parme, the writer made this flattering allusion to Breguet in his travel piece Rome, Naples et Florence and, incidentally, provided the best possible publicity for the firm.

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS Luxury all-steel sports watches — which made their first big splash back in 1972, with the release of the revolutionary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — are finding renewed appeal among people with lifestyles that demand something both sporty and dressy. Luxury watch brands are not only reading the signs, but also refocusing on the Western markets with bigger, more masculine, sportier looks for larger wrists. We see bigger dials, such as the all-new Rolex Sea-Dweller at 43mm, featuring a cyclops above the date, which is a first for this model.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon, R1 835 700

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CALIBER RM 11-03

www.richardmille.com

watches

RICHARD MILLE OF CLOCKS AND CARS Motoring alliances continue to dominate, from the contemporary take on the Tag Autavia, selected through an online poll, to the super-lightweight Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1 and the Tissot T-Race MotoGP. Sixty years ago, all eyes were on rockets and the exploration of outer space. The world was also getting smaller, with the first commercial jet airliners creating the new global citizens.

While not quite like our interconnected citizens of today, these new jetsetters aspired to updating their lives appropriately with home appliances, accessories, and cars that reflected the change of pace. Recording speed on and off the racetrack became an obsession, and was at the heart of the creation and functionality of watches such as the Omega Speedmaster, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year. Stock-car racing was also becoming more popular, giving everyone access to the track, and manufacturers responded by building special-edition, high-performance production cars. Movie

stars such as Steve McQueen were also bringing their brand of cool. Who wouldn’t look back with envy to this time? Omega’s original reference CK2915-1 is, arguably, the most sought-after chronograph in the world. Not only was this the company’s first Speedmaster, it was also the world’s first chronograph wristwatch, with its tachymeter scale on the bezel, as opposed to the dial. In its 38mm case, the limited anniversary edition perfectly matches the 1957 original’s style, but it’s been updated with an 1861 calibre movement.

Chronograph fans will also love Zenith’s up-to-date and up-to-speed 21st century take on its Defy El Primero, which is all about performance and precision. Remaining true to its legendary roots, possibly only through its sizable 44mm dial, this skeletal version is in ceramicised aluminium, and the central chronograph hand, which performs a full turn of the dial in an impressive one second, is on full display.

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In July 2018, Richard Mille will host the Le Mans Classic, the biggest biennial event for classic-car enthusiasts, on the Grand Circuit 24 Hours of Le Mans in Maine, France. Last year more than 123 000 spectators made their way to Sarthe to admire nearly 550 race cars on the track, as well as 8 500 vintage cars on display. The 2018 event will also celebrate the 70th annniversay of the Porsche 365 and the 50th of the 908.

Richard Mille RM11-03 in titanium and rose gold, price on request

watches

WATCHES FOR WOMEN With rapidly growing interest in the mechanical stuff that men like, manufacturers are finally waking up with innovative pieces that speak to the women.

Beyond the bejewelled, we are seeing more sporty and complicated timepieces focused on these active new collectors. Perfect examples include the new women’s Carreras from Tag Heuer, with a fresh range of looks and a new modular construction, as well as the IWC Da Vinci Automatic 36.

A greater focus on women’s watches is also driven by the high-end fashion brands that are starting to play on the watchmakers’ turf by opening manufacturers in Switzerland. If you’re not one of the lucky few brands to be immortalised in the lyrics of rap and hip-hop tunes, then you’d know there’s mounting competition from the likes of Gucci, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton for a place on the slim wrists of fashionistas who are not interested in watches only as pretty accessories.

Although haute horlogerie still totally owns the space in terms of global sales figures, for the muchneeded growth in the industry, it is clear, even from comparative social-media numbers, that these watch brands are far behind their fashion peers when it comes to using these contemporary tools to engage with potential newcomers, particularly women and younger consumers.

SO EIGHTIES Athleisure may seem like it’s all the rage now, but we can trace its roots back to 1980s. It’s the obvious next step after fashion’s recent fascination with the 1970s, and as a somewhat punch-drunk world also tries to make sense of these unfathomable times, the 1980s might hold some answers. As designers channel the decade, smartwatches make the perfect accessories — the modern equivalent of those Seiko quartz calculator watches for the now generation.

This time, the Swiss manufacturers look determined to stay one step ahead. But our obsession with staying connected has to find a tipping point, and crucial to their success, I believe, will be showing some restraint. The smart company that started it all, FitBit, is exactly what its name says, a fitness-related bit of wearable technology and not a desktop crammed onto the wrist. Breitling’s Exospace B55 connected chronograph has some impressive functionality, but is essentially made for pilots. For anyone with an on-the-go lifestyle who wants something practical yet luxurious, there’s a host of impressive releases.

Most recent are the Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon, and the Montblanc Summit. Louis Vuitton offer on-brand, fashion-first customisable strap and dial options for world travellers, while the Summit is more of a sports-lovers’ watch.

ROLEX Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf wanted his watches to bear a name that was short, easy to say, and memorable in any language. He said: “I tried combining the letters of the alphabet in every possible way. This gave me some 100 names, but none of them felt quite right. One morning, while riding on the upper deck of a horse-drawn omnibus along Cheapside in the City of London, a genie whispered ‘Rolex’ in my ear.”

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, with rotatable bezel with Cerachrom insert in black ceramic on stainless-steel Oysterflex bracelet, R145 900

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Available at

Conquest V.H.P.

watches

INTO THE BLUE Although blue has made an appearance on wrists for a few seasons now, this classic primary colour is another standout trend this year. A dial or entire watch — as in the case of the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire — dedicated to blue adds a sporty yet elegant note to an all-steel, bronze, or gold look. There are plenty to dress your wrist, including the chronometer-certified Breitling Superocean Heritage II dive watch, or the more affordable Swiss quartz-powered Rado True Thinline in polished blue high-tech ceramic, and the Michel Herbelin Newport Connect 35mm in its polished rose-gold PVD case.

Although it features more subtly placed blue accents and notes a much “younger” anniversary, the 25th celebration of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection sees the release of three vintage-inspired editions watches — the Date, Geographic (with two time zones), and the Chronograph — with elegantly designed two-tone sector dials.

BEYOND BORDERS It’s not only the Swiss who make watches of quality — other territories are making a comeback. Expect to see more from Britain, the US, and Japan. Japanese brand Grand Seiko is now independent and no longer a sub-brand of Seiko. In celebration, it has released three limited editions in steel, gold, and platinum.

At 38mm, they are slightly bigger than the original 36mm watch from 1960, on which they are based, and are powered by the hand-wound Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64. The highly sought-after 1965 diver’s watch from Seiko has also been re-interpreted, and, although faithful to the original design, is brought up to date in its technology and functions as the Seiko Prospex. The choice of professionals, this was Japan’s first diver’s watch and, over the years, has inspired the development of many innovative diver models that established many world firsts for the company.

For those people with adventurous lifestyles, US group Hamilton has released the Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono, with the world’s first drift-angle calculator in a watch, enabling pilots to accurately calculate and record crosswinds.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Actor, director, producer, screenwriter, and composer Charlie Chaplin had only one great adversary. “My only enemy is time,” he often said. Perhaps, in the spirit of supporting him in that battle, Switzerland — the country of watchmaking, presented him with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox timepiece in 1953. Having recently been restored to its former glory by the manufacturer, Chaplin’s Memovox is now back in the historical home of its owner, where visitors to Chaplin’s World in Vevey, Switzerland can view this legendary watch.

From left: Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous automatic in rose gold with silver dial and bezel set with 60 brilliantcut diamonds, R321 000; Rolex Cellini with moonphase in 18ct Everose gold on brown alligator-leather strap with folding crownclasp, R344 300 W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 7 / 1 8

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RADO.COM

RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC DIAMONDS PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.

TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF

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BULGARI Earlier this year, Elton John and David Furnish made an appearance at the Bulgari gem table in Rome, Italy. John, alongside Bulgari’s creative director, Lucia Silvestri, showed off a piece of jewellery that will be auctioned at a gala event commemorating the 25th anniversary of the Elton John AIDS Foundation next year. “This exquisite piece will help save lives around the world and help us defeat AIDS. It shows how Bulgari can use creativity in wonderful and new ways,” the singer said.

Bulgari Octo automatic extra-thin caliber with titanium band, R249 000

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BLANCPAIN In 1953, Blancpain introduced Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diver’s watch. Since then, the brand has been committed to ocean conservation and together with the National Geographic Society and their Pristine Seas Exhibition with Blancpain program they have managed to double the total surface area of protected ocean worldwide by adding a further 3 million square kilometers.

BLANCPAIN In 1953, Blancpain introduced Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diver’s watch. Since then, the brand has been committed to ocean conservation and has been a staunch supporter of National Geographic’s Pristine Seas campaign, which has doubled the total surface area of protected ocean worldwide by adding a further 3-million km2.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, R374 300

Blancpain Fifty OFFICINE Fathoms, R374 300 PANERAI Officine Panerai sponsored the four-year

OFFICINE PANERAI led by South African/ Pangea Expedition Officine sponsored theHorn. four-year SwissPanerai Eco Explorer, Mike WithPangaea a expedition led by South African-Swiss Mike crew of young explores between 15 eco-explorer to 20 Horn.

With a from crew of between the ages of 15 year-olds allexplorers over the world, Horn and explored 20 years old from all over the world,and Horn visited all all the earth’s continents seven continents and the planet’s oceans travelled across thetravelled planet’sacross oceans with with 110 foot sailboat, Pangaea.

Under the expedition’s thehis Pangea Expedition sailing vessel.

The motto of “explore, learn,accompanied act”, Horn andhim histo crew 100 Young Explorers contributed to aaround number ofworld ecological and social projects.

12 hot spots the where they carried our ecological and social projects Panerai Luminorthe 1950 GMT‘explore, ceramic chronograph with eight days’ following motto, learn, act.’ power reserve, R291 600 Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT ceramic chronograph with eight days’ power reserve, R291 600 CARTIER

CARTIER As the House’s signature animal, the Panther has always reigned supreme over Cartier designs. The elegant feline was used for the first time on a wristwatch in 1914, with the watches gem’s recreating the animal’s fur. Cartier was the first brand to explore femininity through influence of the panther and the Since then, the motif has been used in many designs across various Cartier watches, jewellery pieces, broches and even cigarette boxes.

As the house’s signature animal, the panther has always reigned supreme over Cartier designs. The elegant feline was used for the first time on a wristwatch in 1914, with diamonds and onyx used to create the fur motif. Since then, Cartier has been exploring femininity through the panther, and the trademark has been used in many designs across watches, brooches, rings — and even on cigarette boxes.

Cartier Ballon Bleu 42mm in steel with leather strap, R92 000

Cartier Ballon Bleu 42mm in steel with leather strap, R92 000

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watches PARMIGIANI As the official timing sponsor for the legendary Cancer Research UK Boat Races, which sees the rowing crews from Oxford and Cambridge universities facing off, Parmigiani sees a connection between Swiss watchmaking and the values of rowing. “In watchmaking, the required precision of a hand’s movement can be as small as three-hundredth of a millimetre. A watchmaker must train each gesture relentlessly; he must practise again and again until his brain and his hands achieve the perfect motion. I feel a close affinity to rowing, because it involves the same self-control, focus, and training,” master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani says.

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Aerolithe automatic chronograph with flyback movement, R375 000

TAG HEUER Tag Heuer was the first Swiss watchmaker to go into space. On 20 February 1962, John Glenn undertook the first manned American space flight — on his wrist was a Tag Heuer stopwatch.

Tag Heuer Calibre Heuer 02 tourbillon with black alligator-leather strap, R250 000

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TAG Heuer Boutiques; Sandton City & V&A Waterfront. Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide. For further information please call 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za

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CHOPARD Chopard has been partnering with the Cannes Film Festival since 1998, and in 2001, under the impetus of artistic director Caroline Scheufele and eager to bolster its ongoing support of filmmaking, Chopard created the Trophée, intended as an annual occasion to honour a young actress and a young actor in the making. This year Charlize Theron presented the trophy to Anya Taylor-Joy — seen in The Witch, and Split — and George MacKay, who caught the limelight in Pride, and Captain Fantastic.

Chopard L.U. Chopard with world times, price on request

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ZENITH In the early 20th century, Zenith was one of the largest watch manufacturers with an international dimension, and began exporting its timepieces as far afield as India from 1914 onwards. Indira Gandhi, who served as prime minister of India in the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s, famously presented her friend Mahatma Gandhi with a silver Zenith pocketwatch, which was one of his few earthly possessions and accompanied his daily life, its alarm notably signalling his prayer times.

Zenith El Primero 400B automatic chronograph with date indication at 6 o’clock, R110 000

BAUME & MERCIER During the “roaring ’20s”, Paul Mercier recognised that it was essential for Baume & Mercier, the brand he co-founded, to keep up with the times and embrace women’s emancipation, as well as regard their desires as an unquenchable source of inspiration. In the 1940s, building on this profound understanding of femininity, Baume & Mercier launched one of its most successful models: the Marquise. This jewellery-watch nestling inside a slim bracelet is both attractive and practical.

Baume & Mercier Shelby Cobra, R59 000

MONTBLANC To mark its 110th anniversary, Montblanc released a limited-edition series of Sfumato briefcases decorated by Mo Coppoletta. The Italian tattoo artist, now based in London, individually hand-etched every leather piece using genuine Montblanc ink. On the outside, the blue briefcase exudes classic elegance through the patina of the Sfumato leather, but on the inside, hidden from sight, a secret piece of contemporary art awaits.

Montblanc Timewalker automatic chronograph, R55 400

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P REM IER WAT CH DEST IN AT IO N

A handpicked selection of prestigious international watch brands where attention to detail and exclusivity come standard.

The very best timepieces brought to you by TFG. All TFG cards welcome.

E S T . 19 8 4

Visit our flagship stores:

Canal Walk (CPT)

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Table Bay (CPT)

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Menlyn (PTA)

w w w.prime -time.co.za

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Vaal Mall (JHB)

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River Walk (BOTSWANA)

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Tag Heuer Autavia automatic chronograph with black dial and brown leather strap, R72 500

OMEGA Representing the next generation of watch wearers, Cindy Crawford’s children have become Omega’s newest brand ambassadors. Following their mother’s 20-year history with the brand, Kaia and Presley Gerber were officially welcomed at Omega’s Her Time event in Paris, which celebrated the evolution of women’s watches with Omega over the past 100 years.

Omega Speedmaster Racing, R106 000

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RAYMOND WEIL The Raymond Weil brand has always been influenced by music. One of the earliest indications was the 1983 launch of the Amadeus collection, to coincide with the release of MiloŠ Forman’s acclaimed eponymous Mozart biopic. Music-inspired collection names soon became a distinguishing feature, with many more to follow, including Fidelio, named after Ludwig Beethoven’s only opera, and also Traviata and Saxo.

Raymond Weil Freelancer diver, R25 650

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Since 2005, IWC Schaffhausen has been involved with the Laureas Sport for Good Foundation, which addresses social challenges through sports-related community-development initiatives.

There are 60 Laureus Academy members, who serve as ambassadors and include some of the greatest names in modern sport. All academy members share a belief in the power of sport to break down barriers, bring people together, and improve the lives of young people throughout the world.

IWC Aquatimer Shark Edition, R185 000

TUDOR Created by the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, the Tudor Watch Company was established with a mission to explore new territories, offering a watch that Wilsdorf’s agents “could sell at a more modest price than his Rolex watches and yet could attain its standards of dependability”. The brand has remained true to this original vision and uses ambassadors such as Lady Gaga and David Beckham to portray its values of unique creation, reinvention, and daring spirit.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay S&G with unidirectional rotating bezel on steel and yellow-gold bracelet, R70 890

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Clockwise from top left:

MICHEL HERBELIN

RADO

HUGO BOSS

Father Time is supposedly all about being measured, careful, and responsible. Now, TW Steel has created his rebellious scion, the Son of Time.

The notion partners horology and motorcycles, craftsmanship and style.

The elements work side by side to create unique custom motorcycles with matching custom timepieces.

Set on making watches of the highest quality to the same standards as the great brands of the day, Michel Herbelin set up his own company in France in 1947. His son Jean-Claude joined the business in 1972 and still runs the company today with his brother PierreMichel, making the brand one of the only independent watch manufacturers in existence.

For decades, Rado envisaged making watches from a kind of material that is as hard as a natural diamond. After years of painstaking research and the use of cutting-edge nanotechnology, the brand has finally unveiled the Rado V10K watch, which boasts a uniquely resistant hi-tech diamond surface and achieves a hardness of 10 000 Vickers.

The protection of animals has been central to Hugo Boss’ commitment to environmental responsibility for many years now. In line with this policy, Hugo Boss products do not use farmed fur, Angora wool, or down feathers plucked from live birds. This year, the brand’s efforts were recognised, with Peta Germany awarding the brand a Vegan Fashion Award.

Michel Herbelin Newport 100m in stainless steel with DLC and genuine-leather strap, R16 750

Rado Diamaster, R59 500

Hugo Boss Professional with metal strap, R6 995

TW STEEL

TW Steel Volante chronograph in stainless steel with PVD and textile strap, R8 500

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LONGINES The 2018 Commonwealth Games on Australia’s Gold Coast has apppointed Longines as its official timekeeper. To mark the countdown, Longines unveiled a 5.2m tall, 1.75 tonne countdown clock with the help of a bunch of Antipodeans: model Amy Pejkovic, swimmer Cam McEvoy, and children from St Pius Catholic School Banyo. The clock will count down the minutes, hours and days until the commencement of the Games on 4 April.

Michel Herbelin Inspiration 1947 70th anniversary limited edition in stainless steel with 20 micron gold and leather strap, R24 950

Longines Heritage 1945, R21 000

ROTARY It has been manufacturing stylish dress watches since 1895, and to mark this success, Rotary has launched its Vintage Museum, which displays a selection of its watches dating back to the early 1900s. The collection offers a captivating insight into the fashions of the ’20s, ’30s, ’40s, as well as the trends of the present day.

Rotary Les Originales Tradition with Swiss movement with GMT function, sapphire-crystal glass, stainless-steel case, and leather strap, R7 950

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the evolution of

AFRICAN WEALTH Metal Concentrators is making gold accessible to all South Africans through an innovative collection of precious collectables, reflecting a contemporary African design ethos photography MALCOLM DARE

R

eflecting on the original wealth of Africa and how it has been traded, Metal Concentrators, or MetCon, have developed three unique collections of gold and silver minted collectables – reclaiming that wealth in a contemporary and evolutionary manner through designs that capture a new mood in South Africa.

THE METCON GUARANTEE As MetCon guarantees the buy-back of its own products at any given time, the only South African refinery to do so, the risk to the end consumer is radically diminished.

MetCon will sell minted bars at marketrelated premiums above the London spot price of gold, and guarantee to buy back the products at a small percentage below

NGUNI GOLD The practice of lobola is included in the African tradition of love and respect. It is a symbol of love, with cattle of such a high value in African culture that they are respected more than money.

Metal Concentrators’ premier Heritage Collection: Nguni Gold Limited Edition sculptures are cast in gold and silver.

shell most widely used as currency was the Cypraea moneta – the money cowry.

The most widely used currency in history, the cowry has all the characteristics of money: durability, beauty, convenience, recognisability and divisibility.

The return of the money cowry in precious metal evolves the concept of the original currency and humankind’s historical fascination with gold, silver, and platinum to the modern world’s attachment to commodity value – creating a global vehicle of wealth and the ultimate international currency.

The Spiral of Time emerges from the spiral found in a fossilised ammonite, filled with alluring references to the development of time telling throughout human evolution.

The Spiral of Life: reflecting the spectacle of life on Earth, specifically life on the African continent and the natural law of “survival of the fittest”. The spiral evolves into life-giving water, splashing over the African continent and the Earth.

THE MONEY COWRY The first use of cowries as a medium of exchange dates back to 1 200BC. The

MINTED BARS The Spiral of Time: a modern-day memento mori, with a scientific, formalistic look.

For more information contact Metal Concentrators: bars@metcon.co.za; metcon.co.za; 021 510 0770

the actual spot price at any time. Now everyone can share in a lowered risk of wealth management and wealth storage in the pursuit of personal prosperity.

Available in 100g, 50g, and 10g 999.9 pure gold minted bars, and a 100g 99.9 pure silver minted bar.

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From left: Guess Funfetti, R2 795; Movado Edge, R17 950; Tommy Hilfiger Ashley, R1 995; Buren, R1 295

THE COLOUR OF PURITY, COMBINED WITH METALLICS, CONTINUES TO DELIGHT ON DIALS AND STRAPS ALIKE

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, 41mm, steel and Everose gold with diamond dial, R183 700

graphic stripes U p t h e a n t e w it h b o ld , g e o m e t r ic sh a p e s in a sle w o f co lo u r s. V iv id , l in e a r v isu a ls o f b o d y - w ra p p in g b lo ck st r ip e s in co n t ra st in g co lo u r s a n d b re a t h a b le k n it s a re id e a l fo r n ext - le v e l co lo u r b lo ck in g , w it h a n e a sy g o in g , sp o r t s lu xe fe e l a t Pro e n za S ch o u le r, Pr in g le o f S co t la n d , a n d S o n ia Ry k ie l.

From left: Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80, R12 600; Swatch Hello Pretty, R1 890; Calvin Klein City, R2 950

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A SHINING BEACON

The story of platinum is one of innovation and style, glamour and technology

LATINU

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outh African platinum mining dates back to the 1920s, when the first traces of the precious metal were unearthed in the Rustenburg area. From those very early days to today, Anglo American Platinum has played a formative role in the growth and development of the industry.

Initially established in 1931, as Rustenburg Platinum Mines, the business grew notably over the next few decades to meet the rising demand.

Platinum is a rare, brilliant white metal, with unique properties that make it highly versatile with a great range of possible applications — from the cars we drive and jewellery we wear, to collectibles, medical equipment, and for industrial purposes.

Back in the late 1950s, Anglo American cemented a partnership with a marketing agent in London to encourage the wider use of platinum throughout the world. This marked the beginning of the industry’s efforts to stimulate demand, and ever since then, platinummine production has grown continuously while its uses have evolved.

Platinum demand has historically been driven by the automobile industry. In the 1970s, new anti-pollution regulations in the US ushered in the era of catalytic converters, spurring demand from carmakers. The current rise of fuel cell-powered electric vehicles has also been providing new opportunities for the industry.

Meanwhile, the world of platinum jewellery has had its share of ups and downs. Platinum became popular in the late 1800s, as its strength and ductile nature meant that designers could fashion precise and intricate pieces.

Cartier was one of the first brands to create elaborate diamond and platinum jewellery for the wealthy, and the white metal craze continued well into the Art Deco period.

In the 1930s, the glamorous stars of Hollywood wore fabulous platinum and diamond pieces on screen and on the red carpet. But with the outbreak of the Second World War, platinum was taken off the social scene when the US government declared it a strategic resource and banned its use in non-essential applications such as jewellery. In the 1960s, however, with the war well and truly over and

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gold imports now being restricted, a market for platinum jewellery and décor started growing again.

By the late ’80s, platinum, traditionally reserved for expensive, high-end pieces, began to be used more extensively throughout the precious-jewellery industry.

This rise in popularity saw creative designs coming out of Europe and Japan.

Due to lack of experience and the mistaken belief that the metal was difficult to work with, the younger generation of South African jewellery designers were left lagging behind. This challenge prompted Anglo American Platinum to start a series of seminars to encourage local designers and manufacturers to work with this metal. To further encourage the use of platinum, the first PlatAfrica competition was launched in 1998. The annual competition promotes innovation and technical competence in platinum jewellery design and manufacture, stimulating market demand, while also building local skills and jobs.

Today, demand for platinum jewellery is flourishing globally. China is now the world’s biggest single market for platinum jewellery, and there are significant opportunities for the industry to tap further growth, particularly in China and India, where platinum is a metal of choice for jewellery and seen as a symbol of love.

As the world’s leading producer of platinum group metals, Anglo American Platinum takes pride in its rich history and spurring the development of diverse and innovative uses for the unique metal. From its founding to today, the company has played a crucial role in South Africa’s economic landscape and the global platinum industry, driving sustainable economic growth and making a positive social contribution.

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PLAT AFRICA 2 0 17

BOLD MINIMALISM ALL THE FINALISTS IN THIS YEAR’S PRESTIGIOUS PLATINUM JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS

ULANDIE JONAS Neckpiece Uwe Koetter Jewellers Theme: The family bond

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THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL

LATINU

“B

old minimalism” was selected as the theme for the 18th annual PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacture competition to unearth the country’s top talent.

Presented by Anglo American Platinum in association with Platinum Guild International (PGI) India and Metal Concentrators, the prestigious competition was open to student, apprentice and professional jewellers in South Africa.

The 2017 PlatAfrica theme was aimed at achieving the perfect pairing of timeless platinum with on-trend design: curated elements, pared-down, simplified, each one considered, courageous and meaningful — a simple expression of love. It looks to minimalism as a stance against excess; it dares to be bold with designs that stand out from a sea of clutter.

Four design hooks were selected to allow designers to explore the properties of platinum to create statement pieces for both men and women: Asymmetrical silhouettes: simplistic yet substantial, revelling in a break with tradition — off-centre, unexpected.

Linear constellations: complex lines of metal that break the monotony and highlight the strength of platinum.

New sculptural: artful, bold, and assertive multi-dimensional design.

Beyond deco: clean lines, multi-faceted angles — a reflection of the future Indian millennials were the target market for the 2017 competition: they’re a bold, experimental generation looking for a fresh, modern take on tradition. They are techsavvy traditionalists who are very connected to family, yet very different from the previous generation. Their friends and social network all form part of their extended family. Indian millennials are all about making their own mark — they want to be more and do more!

Self-expression and individuality are important to them — they look for designs that reflect their individuality, as well as their status and success. They are fashion conscious and want to make an impression with their style.

Being socially relevant is important: they seek meaning in their choices. They value craftsmanship as a means of self-expression and to allow them to stand out from the crowd.

clockwise from above NIHAL SHAH Bracelet Vijay Shah Jewellery Theme: Indian amulet AURELIEN BRANDT Neckpiece Ruth Prowse Theme: Practical magic JACOB AGOSE MOKOENA Bracelet Pneuma Jewellers Theme: Trianga

BRENDON CLOETE Neckpiece and earrings BMC Fine Jewellery Theme: Survival kit

angloamericanplatinum.com.

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P R O F E S S I O N A L S

MAGDA NIEMAN & ABRAM MATHABATHA Neckpiece Nieman Jewellers Theme: Inner strength

T H E

PLATAFRICA AWARDS

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from left MICHELLE LIAO Cuff Ruth Prowse Theme: Interconnection BHEKI NGEMA Ring Ben and Co Designs Theme: Cyber texture egg LUNGILE XHWANTINI Ring SEDA Platinum Incubator Theme: New sculptural - present & future VIJAY SHAH Neckpiece Vijay Shah Jewellery Theme: Thaithu

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clockwise from left ANKE VAN DER LINDEN Ring Durban University of Technology Theme: Undulation ANGEL STOFILE Neckpiece Cape Peninsula University of Technology Theme: Modern and rooted FRASER SCHENCK Neckpiece Tshwane University of Technology Theme: Forgotten triumphs SIPHO HENRY ZWANE Bracelet Pneuma Jewellers Theme: Ganga THABISO XULU Tie pin University of Johannesburg Theme: The precious Ashoka Chakra

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LATINUM

2 0 1 7

S T U D E N T S T H E

PLATAFRICA AWARDS

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JOANNE VAN DEN BERG Neckpiece Cape Peninsula University of Technology Theme: Shankha

from left

CRAIG WELGEMOED Ring Cape Peninsula University of Technology Theme: Seafarer’s journey SIMPHIWE NTULI Ring Durban University of Technology Theme: Expect the unexpected

VUYISWA MABUWA Neckpiece Cape Peninsula University of Technology Theme: Modern India – the dance DANICA DAVIES Bracelet Durban University of Technology Theme: Reunion

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the

HUMAN TOUCH A bold and brave move by specialist jewellery manufacturer Rare Earth Creations is ensuring that rare skills, such as gemstone setting and metal engraving, are not lost to the jewellery industry

O

ne of South Africa’s leading jewellery manufacturers, Rare Earth Creations, is well known for the highend, bespoke masterpieces it supplies to some of the top jewellers in South Africa and beyond.

What is less known is that, over the past three years, Rare Earth Creations has started to play a new and important role in the jewellery industry — creating a training school focused on handing down scarce jewellery-making skills, such as engraving and gemstone setting.

“We are passionate about educating newcomers in the industry about the importance of being able to add that final touch, specialised handmade expertise, to a piece of jewellery,” says Svetla Stephens, who heads up Rare Earth Creations.

This new arm to the business is an invaluable investment in an industry that is dependent on fine craftsmanship and technical excellence, and generations of jewellers to come will appreciate the effects of this skills transfer.

The manufacturing processes in the world of jewellery have become highly specialised, especially with the computer-aided design revolution. New technology notwithstanding, the ancient skills of setting gemstones and engraving fine metals remain highly technical, and require experience and understanding.

“It is only with that specialised knowledge that it is possible to add bespoke touches — such as a date or name engraving or a heraldic family crest for sealing — to a piece of jewellery. In the world of handcrafted jewellery, the work of a setter and engraver can make or break a piece,” Svetla says.

The internship programme was implemented in

Photography MALCOLM DARE and SUPPLIED

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The Rare Earth Creations trainees with Christopher Greig of Charles Greig in Johannesburg’s Hyde Park, where they had the opportunity to view the world of retail

CHARLES GREIG

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2015, when Svetla and her partner in the project, Charles Greig, identified the need for training that would bridge the gap of scarce skills in the industry.

The internship programme was offered to graduates with qualifications in jewellery manufacture and design. The move has been such a huge success that Rare Earth Creations is now extending the concept, making the training accessible to students without qualifications. Svetla firmly believes the creation of jewellery should not be reserved for an exclusive few.

“The objective of the Rare Earth Creations internship programme is to empower young individuals with the necessary skills to contribute effectively to the jewellery sector and to our country’s economy. The course aims to offer training of a high calibre, and to produce employable individuals, as well as successful entrepreneurs,” she says.

The internship programme has grown from two students to 10, with a growing list of potential candidates lining up for 2018. Students work in a very busy workshop, where they see the daily flow of operations.

Through daily mentoring and on-the-bench training, they practise techniques and gain proficiency in microscope setting, using the latest available technology. They have also had the opportunity to view the world of retail through invitations to exhibitions held by Charles Greig in Johannesburg’s Hyde Park.

Interns are recruited from various universities across the country, including the University of Johannesburg, and the Tshwane, Durban, and Cape Peninsula universities of technology.

For more information about the Rare Earth internship, send an email to noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

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heritage

F A M I L Y V A L U E S p h o t o g ra p h y B IAN C A THERON — LA MPO ST st y l i n g N ON KUTHALO THI THI

Coco Chanel famously said fashion fades, only style remains the same. Fine adornments too can be a style legacy, and a precious link between generations to evoke lifelong memories. Create an heirloom collection of treasures to be handed down to future generations

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heritage

Bells of Peace by Love Teddy necklace, price on request, Elegance Jewellers

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From left: Earrings with 23.36ct emeralds, 1.63ct diamonds, and spinel and emerald beads, R790 000; pendant with 12.11ct pear-cut emeralds, and 0.35ct princess-cut diamonds on necklace with 4.1ct emeralds and 1.02ct diamonds, R320 000; ring with 1.56ct marquise-cut emeralds and 0.75ct diamonds, R262 500, all Charles Greig for Gemfields; drop earrings with prasiolite, chrysophrase, and diamond in 18kt yellow gold, R65 800, Charles Greig; Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise small pendant with 15 round white diamonds totalling 0.29ct in 18kt yellow gold, R111 563; Palais Tsarskoye Selo Turquoise openset bangle with 16 round white diamonds totalling 0.24ct and one round ruby totalling 0.05ct in 18kt yellow gold, R111 563, both Fabergé; starfish ring with 16 Zambian emeralds totalling 0.95ct and 68 diamonds totalling 0.65ct in 18kt white gold, R65 295, Vernon White for Gemfields

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Ellipse earrings, R1 800, Calvin Klein; stacking rings with 0.11ct diamonds in 9kt gold, R5 500 each; flow ring (bottom) with 0.17ct diamonds in 9kt gold, R7 500, all Luxco; Starlicious double star charm necklace, R749, Guess; bangle, price on request, Calvin Klein; Express Myself bangle with one removable two-colour strap (straps sold separately for R349 each), R999, Guess; Show bracelet, R1 580, Calvin Klein

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TEL 011 622 4735 ADDRESS SHOP U9, BEDFORD CENTRE, BEDFORDVIEW www.shemer.co.za

heritage

From top: Night and Day dewdrop earrings with black, brown, and white diamonds in 9kt white gold, R29 999; Moonlight Pavé abstract flowerdesign ring with diamond in 18kt white gold, R89 999; Moonlight Pavé broad ring with 185 diamonds in 18kt white gold, R135 999; Night and Day neckpiece with black, brown, and white diamonds in 18kt white gold, R220 999; Moonlight Pavé leaf-design ring with diamonds in 18kt white gold, R119 999; Moonlight Pavé broad swirl ring with diamonds in 18kt white gold, R139 999, all Arthur Kaplan

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Love is in the details.

Sultry Amethyst, Brazilian Garnet and Smokey Quartz set in rose gold Left R9 999 Right R12 999

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From top: Drop earrings with garnets in 18kt yellow gold and sterling silver, R5 860; Rivière necklace with garnets in 18kt yellow gold and sterling silver, R36 200, Rivière necklace with carnelians in 18kt yellow gold and sterling silver, R22 860, all Veronica Anderson Jewellery

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THE BLACK SWAN Much like the rare and beautiful bird after which it’s named, ‘The Black Swan’ is an ode to grace. Featuring a 2.50ct Black Diamond surrounded by White Diamonds with a total weight of 3.40ct set in 18ct White or Pink Gold.

VISIT OUR FL AGSHIP STORES: CAVENDISH CANAL WALK (CPT) | SANDTON (JHB) | GATEWAY WESTVILLE (DBN)

EASTGATE EASTRAND MALL MIDLANDS MALL MENLYN OR VISIT: WWW.AMERICANSWISS.CO.ZA

MALL OF AFRICA

heritage

Time to Shine earrings with diamonds totalling 2.48ct in 18kt white gold, price on request, Lorraine Efune for Forevermark; bespoke neckpiece with diamonds totalling 0.95ct in 18kt white gold, price on request, Prins & Prins for Forevermark; necklace with five marquise-cut diamonds totalling 1.4ct and four round, brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.39ct in 18kt rose gold, R64 400; Slave necklace with 46 round diamonds totalling 0.46ct and two baguette-cut diamonds totalling 0.19ct in 18kt rose gold; tennis bracelet with 12 oval morganites totalling 4.9ct and 60 diamonds totalling 0.3ct, R44 500, all Shemer Jewellers; Encordia tennis bracelet with diamonds totalling 4.29ct in 18kt white gold, R235 800, Forevermark at Shemer Jewellers

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VINTAGE INSPIRATION Shop 7, The Firs, Oxford Road, Rosebank, 2196, Johannesburg roni@vajewellery.co.za I www.veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za Tel +27 (0)11 268 2021 I Mobile +27 (0)82 881 0359

heritage

Earrings with diamonds in 14kt rose gold, R34 154, Murdocks; neckpiece with diamonds in 14kt rose gold, R138 245, Tanur Collection; dress ring, R54 999, American Swiss Jewelers.

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From top left: Divas’ Dream earrings with carnelian and two diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R55 600; Divas’ Dream necklace with turquoise and diamond in 18kt rose gold, R25 500; Divas’ Dream necklace with carnelian, lapiz lazuli, and malachite in 18kt yellow gold, R172 300; Divas’ Dream bracelets with carnelian and lapiz lazuli, R18 600 each, all Bulgari; Happy Hearts necklace, R120 000; Happy Hearts bangles, R41 700 each, all Chopard; Romaine bangle, R158 400; My Twin ring, R50 400; Move Romaine ring, R88 000; all Messika; Happy Hearts cocktail ring, R99 750, Chopard; My Twin trilogy ring, R109 600, Messika

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a golden

ICON

WHEN THE FIRST KRUGERRAND WAS STRUCK BACK IN 1967, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN HARD TO IMAGINE THAT 50 YEARS LATER WE WOULD BE CELEBRATING A 60 MILLION COIN MILESTONE – AND BEING THE MOST POPULAR GOLD BULLION COIN IN THE WORLD. IT IS THE STUFF THAT LEGENDS ARE MADE OF INDEED

Proof

Bullion

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The colossal 50 oz gold Krugerrand coin

hrough an extraordinary relationship between the SA Mint and Rand Refinery, the Krugerrand has built an indisputable legacy as one of the leaders in the global gold bullion investment industry.

The investment gold coins are the most popular in the world. This year, a season of celebrations saw the introduction of new metals and coin sizes added to the legendary Krugerrand range. A limited line of merchandise has been produced, positioning the Krugerrand as a global coin brand par excellence.

Since the Krugerrand’s launch in 1967, more than 53 million ounces of gold have been sold in the form of Krugerrands – that is as much as the Canadian maple leaf and the US eagle put together.

Last year alone, more than 1.1 million ounces of gold bullion Krugerrands were sold, making it the world’s most traded bullion gold coin.

To mark this major minting achievement, a series of limited-edition, once-off, collectable Krugerrand coins that include a new massive 50 ounce gold coin were introduced. With a diameter of 100mm, this coin is 50 times the size of the standard 1 ounce Krugerrand, and there are only 55 units available for purchase worldwide.

Other anniversary special editions include a 5 ounce gold coin, a 1/20 ounce gold coin and a 1/50 ounce gold coin. And for the first time in its history, the Krugerrand is being minted in precious metals other than gold, with a 1 ounce silver proof coin and a 1 ounce platinum coin.

“Producing the once-off platinum and silver Krugerrands under the same brand that’s

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synonymous with South African gold coinage is our unique way to commemorate the historic influence of the coin on the gold bullion investment market,” says Tumi Tsehlo, MD of the South African Mint.

The gold Krugerrand’s initial design has not been altered since the first coin was struck.

“The gold coins are manufactured from 22ct gold. The alloy material is copper and was chosen to enhance hardness and therefore durability,” says Richard Collocott, executive head of marketing for Rand Refinery and a director of Prestige Bullion, the joint venture between Rand Refinery and the South African Mint. Rand Refinery is responsible for the worldwide marketing of the bullion Krugerrand.

The Krugerrand’s 50th birthday celebrations kicked off earlier this year at the World Money Fair in Berlin, where South Africa was the guest of honour.

“Celebrating the legacy of a coin that pioneered gold coin investing and also endured half a century of world events is a great honour,” says Tsehlo. “As we look back with pride, paying tribute to the coin’s success in markets beyond South Africa, such as Germany and the US, we must also acknowledge the commitment of our global partners in promoting and putting the Krugerrand in the hands of people the world over.”

KRUGERRAND AS INSPIRATION The Krugerrand’s 50th anniversary is being celebrated through a range of collaborations with South African artists and designers, who have drawn inspiration from elements that make up the coin’s design (the aloe, springbok, its colour, etc.). A range of chic, limited-edition fashion accessories and décor pieces were produced in partnership with

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1. Platinum Krugerrand 2. Krugerrand scarf 3. South African painter Anton Karstel’s interpretation of Dr. Christiaan Barnard performing the word’s first heart transplant in 1967 4. Krugerrand brown brace with clasp

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Elegance Jewellers, Blandat, Pichulik, Thabo Makhetha, Okapi and Ceramic Matters.

Waxed-cord bracelets were produced featuring the daintiest of Krugerrands - a 1/50 ounce, 22 ct gold coin on the one side and a delicate 9kt gold “50” clasp on the other side. Shoppers can personalise their bracelet through the choice of colour and cord style.

The Blandat silk scarf is a hand-finished masterpiece that pays homage to the Krugerrand, inspired by South Africa’s distinctive, colourful heritage. With Okapi, 50 years of the Krugerrand is recognised through a springbok leather bespoke bag with gold beaded horn and gold and black tassels, which is as luxurious and uniquely South African as the Krugerrand. Thabo Makhetha’s signature Basotho Blanket is customised with a circular collar that has gold beading, and embroidery inspired by the Krugerrand’s beading, aloe and springbok design, while Ceramic Matters brought the golden jubilee anniversary to life through a delicate ceramic aloe, reminiscent of the aloes found beneath the springbok on the Krugerrand.

“Given the Krugerrand’s rich heritage and proud tradition, we wanted the once-off accessories to be relevant to the cause and design espoused by the brand,” says Tumi Tsehlo, MD of the South African Mint.

All available from the South African Mint’s retail store in Centurion and Elegance Jewellers, Melrose Arch

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WITNESS TO 50 YEARS In another initiative to keep the Krugerrand relevant and involved in modern South Africa, the coin’s anniversary was celebrated at the FNB Joburg Art Fair, with an exhibition of six art works depicting major world events that the Krugerrand has borne witness to, since 1967.

In recognition of the Krugerrand’s profound impact on the coin world over the past 50 years, six artists, Robyn Pretorius, Sindiso Nyoni, Mark Rautenbach, Lwandiso Njara, Nina Torr and Anton Karstel were selected for a story telling project that covers key events that shaped the last five decades. Starting with events in the 60’s, an era that also saw the first Krugerrand minted and the world’s first heart transplant, to the modern discovery of the Homo Naledi, the works are a thematic expression of the times that the Krugerrand witnessed over the decades.

“If history has taught us one thing, it is that gold is the only investment that has never faded away. Through these artworks, we aim to narrate the story about the Krugerrand’s endurance and the metal’s resilience,” says Richard Collocott, Rand Refinery marketing head, and a director at Prestige Bullion.

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THE LEGEND LIVES ON

The story of the Krugerrand has been documented in The Krugerrand Millions, a book by Professor Francois Malan, released to mark the milestone achievement. It documents how the Krugerrand became the world’s favourite gold bullion coin and follows a neat chronological order of events while offering insight into the coin’s early life, tumultuous growth years through apartheid and sanctions, to the legend it has now become. www.realkrugerrand.com www.samint.co.za www.randrefinery.com 4

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eight of the

BEST

Veronica Anderson Jewellery

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tepping into any jewellery store, you’ll find it difficult not to be transported away from reality and into an aspirational dreamland. Perhaps you think of the day you’ll be purchasing an engagement ring, a red-carpet-worthy set of emerald EVERY SPARKLING WINDOW TELLS A STORY. WE earrings — or maybe it’s the day that you finally purchase that collector’s timepiece you’ve been dreaming TRACE THE TALES BEHIND SOME OF THE MOST about. Whatever your story, jewellery stores evoke feelings LUXURIOUS JEWELLERY BOUTIQUES IN SOUTH AFRICA of nostalgia and excitement, anticipation and dreams. What we don’t realise, however, is this rush of emotional charge is t ext produced by so much more than just the magpie effect. The walls SINEAD MARTIN of jewellery stores are lined not only with sparkling precious metals and stones, but also with stories of discovery and family heritage, each one as unique as the gems it holds.

As with every other aspect of our heritage, the South African jewellery scene is rich with diverse stories. Some families boast decades of jewellery sales and designs, while others found their way into the jewellery industry almost as accidentally as coming across a hidden treasure map. It’s these anecdotes that contribute to the character of each jewellery store, varying the tastes and treasures for each inspired shopper.

Elegance Jewellers

GRAFF Take Laurence Graff, for instance, who founded Graff Diamonds in London in 1960, at which time a luxury wine estate and jewellery boutique in the heart of Stellenbosch was probably the furthest thing from his mind. Five decades of exquisite jewellery making later — and Graff is still very much involved, from the sourcing of each rough stone, right through to the cutting, polishing, and the final setting — and Delaire Graff Estate now nestles proudly in the majestic mountains overlooking the vineyards of Stellenbosch. “I visited the estate for the first time back in 2003 and

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heritage felt a strong connection in an instant. It was love at first sight,” Graff explains. A feeling familiar to a jewellery shopper, perhaps?

MURDOCKS And then there’s James Edgar Murdock, another jeweller who brought his sparkling influence from across the pond. He travelled to Cape Town from England in 1896 with the vision of setting up a jewellery business here. Within a year, he opened Murdocks Watchmakers and Jewellers in a shop on the corner of Parliament and Longmarket streets in Cape Town. Over the years, his reputation grew, as did his clientele. Eminent customers included Cecil John Rhodes, King George, and Queen Frederika of Greece. In fact, it was Rhodes who inadvertently created one of Murdock’s most valued services, after he declined to alight from his vehicle and make the short journey into the shop but instead insisted that the shop come to him. While Murdocks is no longer run by the family, but rather owned by Tourvest Jewellery Division, the company continues to deliver prized pieces to its clients, and prides itself on its undivided focus on impeccable service.

SHEMER JEWELLERS As South Africans, we can also take pride in the fact that a large portion of our jewellery industry is homegrown. Through early apprenticeships, jewellery and watchmaking became speciality skills that have been passed on through generations. Alan Carrington of Shemer Jewellers speaks of his father’s unexpected career in watchmaking: “My father left school at Pretoria Boys High in Standard 8. The only reason he left was because the family could no longer support itself on my gran’s war pension.

“He applied for an apprenticeship at Shemer Jewellers in Germiston, owned at that stage by Hymie Shemer, and he became an apprentice watchmaker.”

Eighteen years ago, the Carrington family bought Shemer Jewellers, and Alan explains that his mother still works half day in the business from Monday to Friday overseeing the finances — at the age of 78.

Mrs Carrington has been involved in the accounting practices of the business for more than 50 years.

“One of the legacies my father left is that we have a fully-fledged watchmaking workshop, which we operate from the building of our retail store. We’re able to repair and restore most brands of watches, both in the luxury and the fashion space,” Carrington says — undoubtedly it’s this passion transferred through generations that adds the sparkles to their walls.

CHARLES GREIG Of course, one can’t talk about family jewellers without mentioning Charles Greig, an institution now spanning five

generations. Watchmaker Charles Greig founded the business in 1899 after he settled in Johannesburg from Scotland. The brand grew from strength to strength: its first major accomplishment was the first boutique in South Africa to import and sell Rolex watches.

In the 1950s, Greig’s son David completed a year’s watchmaking course in Switzerland and returned to join the family business.

Twenty years later, Greig’s grandsons Christopher, Donald, and Richard Greig now run the family business. Both Christopher and Richard are still involved in the jewellery side. Donald Greig took a particular interest in sculpture, and an impressive collection of bronzes of Africa’s abundant wildlife is available for purchase from The Collective, the family’s high-end gift store in Sandton’s Nelson Mandela Square. Here, you’re encouraged to spend time reading books while sipping champagne or fine coffee and immersing yourself in the ambience of what The Collective celebrates as non-clichéd, African-style glamour.

Murdocks

ELEGANCE JEWELLERS Celebrating an impressive 50th anniversary this year, Elegance Jewellers has proven it’s a generational family business to be reckoned with. “Elegance was established in 1967 and acquired by my parents, who both independently worked there during their summer holidays. They later married and took over the business, and it’s a love affair that has continued to this day, on both the marriage and business side of things,” says Elegance creative head Oresti Mavrodaris. Fifty years later, and the Mavrodaris golden anniversary is marked, fittingly, with a jewellery line in collaboration with Krugerrand, which also happens to be turning 50 this year. “We’re celebrating our growth, from our roots as a small, family-run jeweller in Johannesburg’s eastern suburbs into a destination jeweller with branches in the city’s top retail centres,” Mavrodaris continues. “But best of all? We’re still a family-run business — I love that I’m assisting the grandchildren of my grandmother’s first clients.” There’s no denying Elegance

Charles Greig

Graff

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Arthur Kaplan

Graff

heritage Jewellers has made its mark on the industry since opening, with increased global partnerships, and lust-worthy, in-house design work housed in beautiful retail spaces. The Japanese call it kaizen (or continuous improvement), and with Elegance’s track record, the next half-century will certainly be exciting.

VERONICA ANDERSON JEWELLERY In another vein altogether, Veronica Anderson found herself being led down a much more undefined path into the jewellery industry. Anderson’s career began in advertising, which she soon left for the world of fine arts as a curator for the Little and Maude Street galleries in Sandown, dealing mostly with contemporary South African art. It was only when she joined Read’s Gallery, which specialises in antique jewellery and silver, that she discovered her passion for jewellery and antiques.

“A love of the history of art stood me in perfect stead to extend my interest into the fascinating world of antique jewellery,” she explains. “It’s like unravelling a mystery — every trend and style has a logical economic starting point and reflects what’s happening at the time. I find it fascinating to pick up a piece of antique jewellery and be able to read its story through its design and in the materials used.” Veronica Anderson Jewellery opened in 2005, first as a gallery offering one-off pieces by jewellery artists. Its first offering, the Clasps Collection, offered 80 one-of-a-kind, handmade clasps that were suitable for pearls and gemstones made by 20 different jewellers.

Today, Veronica Anderson Jewellery still caters for those people intrigued by antique pieces yet looking for something unique they can call their own.

ARTHUR KAPLAN Unlike Anderson, Arthur Norman Kaplan was exposed to the jewellery industry from an early age. His great-uncle was the personal jeweller of Paul Kruger, and his grandfather Henry Balzham

also had an eye for precious metals.

He established a jewellery store in Pretoria in 1889, which Kaplan worked in when he turned 18. After 15 years in the family business, Kaplan opened his own jewellery store, known today as Arthur Kaplan.

Over time, the brand expanded into multiple stores across South Africa and gained a reputation as the It Destination for engagement rings. After 50 years in the business that he loved, and with a successful Johannesburg Stock Exchange listing behind him, Kaplan retired and sold the company that bears his name. The business was purchased by the management team in 2001 and continued to build the brand’s reputation for luxury merchandise, only to be acquired by Taste Holdings in 2014. News recently surfaced that Arthur Kaplan will again be sold, no doubt to the next buyer sharing the brand’s vision of personalised service and integrity.

Perhaps this proves that, by its very nature, in the jewellery industry, heritage continues to build, creating more interesting sparkles along the walls of each boutique.

The walls of jewellery stores are lined not only with sparkling precious metals and stones but with stories of discovery and family heritage too, each one as unique as the gems it holds

Shemer Jewellers

Arthur Kaplan

Charles Greig

AMERICAN SWISS Russian immigrant Isaiah Hirschsohn arrived in Cape Town in 1896 carrying two suitcases — one filled with American watches and the other with Swiss ones. His intention was to make a living from selling them, and after trading from door to door, he started a company called the American Swiss Watch Company with his first store in Caledon Street. By 1923 the company had outgrown the store space and expanded to Parliament Street. In the same year, the infamous Foster gang held Hirschsohn up and cleaned out his shop. But he was resilient and, with the introduction of credit in the 1930s and a name change, to American Swiss, he left the company in a much stronger position. He passed away in 1942. In the late 1960s, Foschini acquired the company, along with Markhams, and The Foschini Group was born. From here, American Swiss saw rapid expansion with the launch of its annual 25%-off diamond sale — a tradition that still continues today — and the first international store opening in Windhoek, Namibia in 1981. Today, American Swiss still boasts the title of the contemporary jewellery store of choice, with stores across the country, as well as in seven other African countries.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BIANCA THERON STYLING NONKUTHALO THITHI ASSISTANT SINEAD MARTIN

American Swiss

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the stars IT CAME FROM

AT LAST, MOISSANITE, SAID TO BE THE WORLD’S MOST BRILLIANT AND RARE GEM, IS AVAILABLE IN SOUTH AFRICA IN AN ELEGANT NEW JEWELLERY COLLECTION EXCLUSIVE TO AMERICAN SWISS Photography MALCOLM DARE

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ifty thousand years ago, a cosmic event gave rise to a precious stone that would change the jewellery market forever. A meteorite crashed into the Arizona desert. The heat and pressure from the impact caused the natural minerals Silicon and Carbide to crystalise and form Silicon Carbide.

It lay dormant in the earth until French chemist Dr Henri Moissan visited the site in 1893. While collecting geological samples he noticed an extraordinary sparkle. Little did he know he had discovered a radiant new mineral, which was later named Moissanite in his honour.

Through innovation and technology, Australian brand Moi Moi has created SUPERNOVA Moissanite, a colourless stone of the highest grade with unmatched quality.

No other Moissanite can compare with its exceptional white colour and radiance. It’s also the most durable of stones and can be passed down to your loved ones as a family heirloom. Right now, Moissanite, said to be the rarest gem on Earth, is being dubbed the jewel of the future.

SUPERNOVA Moissanite is now available in South Africa and brought to you

by American Swiss. Explore the latest contemporary designs or create a unique piece for yourself.

Email: bespokedesign@asj.co.za www.americanswiss.co.za/moimoi

The Shani Set – 2ct SUPERNOVA Moissanite centre stone enhanced by a double halo, with diamond detail.

It comes with a matching double halo 1ct Moissanite pendant necklace and a 0.7ct double halo stud earrings.

All set in beautiful 18ct white gold.

TM

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jewellery trends

H I G H F LY I N G ADORNED Movie-star glamour, vibrant colour, and all things botanical mean this year’s fine-jewellery collections are anything but understated Artwork MALCOLM DARE/ PIXEL FOUNDRY, CAPE TOWN

MILLEN N IAL MAG IC by Bulgari

The film stars of yesteryear knew how to carry off high-volume glamour, and Bulgari is celebrating the little bit of Hollywood diva in all of us with its new collection, the Divas’ Dream. With designs inspired by the luxury maison’s Roman heritage, the 2017 collection consists of high-fashion collars, earrings, bracelets, and sautoirs. All feature the sensual curves of the fan-shaped tiles in the famed Caracalla Baths and the colours of another Roman landmark, the Diocletian Baths. The beauty part is that Bulgari is leading the way in creating fine jewellery designed to be worn from morning to night. Millennials are setting the style pace, with today’s diamonds destined for everyday wear, and not for the red carpet only.

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jewellery trends

G REEN EN ERGY by Charles Greig

When Pantone announced Greenery as the colour of the year, who knew that tropical-green gemstones would also become some of the most sought after in luxury jewellery design? From emeralds to malachite, classic to cutting edge, green gemstones are absolute must-haves this year. Charles Greig is celebrating summer with the exquisite Bella Donna collection of colourful statement earrings, and each red-carpet look is guaranteed to turn heads.

We’re in love with this pair of 18kt yellow-gold earrings from Charles Greig, teaming prasiolite, chrysophrase, and diamonds in a timeless, fresh green design.

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jewellery trends

AL L THIN G S BRIGHT AN D BEAUTIFUL by Dolce & Gabbana

The delicately crafted curve of multi-coloured gemstones in this necklace represents everything that is eclectic and inventive about fashion right now. The dramatic necklace design from Dolce & Gabbana is composed of a chain with twisted wire rings, and 29 gems with different cuts and settings. The gemstone selection? Citrines, amethysts, peridots, rhodolite garnets, aquamarines, morganites, and a pearl. It’s the type of creative indulgence that we’ve seen on the catwalk all year.

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jewellery trends

STREAMIN G THE STATEMEN T RIN G by Elegance Jewellers

The cocktail ring has long been the ultimate party accessory, and this year the stream ring took centre stage for its sinuous lines and liquid shapes inspired by nature. Everyone knows that blue is the new black, so Elegance Jewellers took it to the next level with this slick, sculpted piece with blue sapphires in 18kt white gold that lies smoothly against the curves of your hand.

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jewellery trends

THE S EC RET G ARDEN by Gemfields for Fabergé

The Fabergé Secret Garden high-jewellery collection is an ode to the natural world. These floral jewels were inspired

by French-Russian artist Marc Chagall’s depiction of flowers and rich bouquets, expressing colour and life through an artistic and organic approach. Just like the iconic Fabergé egg, flowers symbolise renewal and rebirth, as well as the first sign of spring. These earrings are an unusual mix of materials, including carved hardstone, enamel, and gold, with a focus on an extraordinary mix of colours and textures full of character and excitement.

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jewellery trends

THE YEAR PIN K TO O K OV ER by Graff

The pink sapphires in this swirl ring by Graff may be a lot brighter than the apricot shades of millennial pink, but they are a reminder that 2017 is the year that pink took over. Some say it started a few years ago when Wes Anderson designed an entire movie in pink (remember Grand Budapest Hotel?), and then along came the rose-gold revolution. We think it’s because it’s hard not to love rubies, rubelites, and pink sapphires.

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What are the plans for the 60th anniversary of the first release of the three classic Omega watches? We took the watches out of the museum and scanned each of them using unique digital technology to capture every detail of each original watch. We used all this information, along with the original model drawings, as design templates for new special editions of what we call the Trilogy, being released this year. We’ve revised the technology for the 21st century – but the watches remain true to the spirit of ’57.

a stylish AFFAIR The Wanted team attended the Baselworld Watch and Jewellery fair and the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie earlier this year and met up with some of the stars of the shows Over the course of one famous year, Omega released three professional timepieces that went on to become classics. We caught up with Jean-Claude Monachon, Omega’s vice-president

What can we expect from the Trilogy as a collection? All three watches are cased in brushed and polished stainless steel, and they all feature black tropical dials. This time, the stainless-steel bracelets have been updated for strength, and they feature a retro-style Omega logo on the clasp.

This is a playful nod to the past – you’ll see all the logos on the watches are in a different style.

This references the way suppliers in the 1950s all interpreted the logo in their own way.

How many limited-edition pieces will be available?

We made 3 557 of each of the three models, and they are delivered in a presentation box that takes inspiration from the original 1957 packaging, right down to the seahorse on the lid, a retro logo, and even red corduroy lining. The presentation box also comes with two spare straps, leather, and Nato, as well as the tool that you need to change them.

What makes each model special for you? The very first Seamaster 300 was highly sought-after, not only for its superb water-resistance, but also because of its black dial, broad arrow hour hand, bi-directional diving bezel, and recessed triangular hour markers. It was built for divers and underwater adventurers and is an icon of innovation and style. The 2017 model features a black aluminium bezel and retains the original Naïad sign on the crown. In 1957, this was a mark of the watch’s exceptional water resistance, so it was important to keep it on the new model. The seahorse on the caseback is also drawn just as it was in 1957.

The Railmaster, on the other hand, was always a simple, practical, and elegant watch that was made to be worn to work. The double-case antimagnetic watch was specifically designed for scientists and technicians – or anyone who worked close to electrical fields. We have continued with this unpretentious style right up to the 2017 model, which can still resist magnetic fields of up to 15 000 gauss.

The original Speedmaster is called the Broad Arrow because of its distinctive hands. It was one of the first chronograph wristwatches in the world, with its tachymeter scale printed on the bezel, as opposed to the dial. This feature was designed for

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racing-car drivers. On the new model, the font was redrawn to match the scale of the 1957 tachymeter.

What other launches can we look forward to from Omega this year? The famous Ladymatic timepiece has inspired some delicate new pieces of jewellery that blend the coolness of white ceramic with the intense glow of red gold. With its three seductive wave patterns, the ring interprets the watchcase, while the matching Ladymatic pendant is presented on a red-gold chain.

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WATCH-INSPIRED JEWELLERY The white ceramic and red-gold ring with matching pendant and chain was inspired by the famous Omega Ladymatic

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Omega Speedmaster

Omega Railmaster

Omega Seamaster 300

“We’ve revised the technology for the 21st century – but the watches remain true to the spirit of ’57”

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Longines president Walter von Känel talks about a big anniversary, revisiting tradition and brand heritage, and the secret to making a success of it all

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atchmaking has always fascinated me,” says Longines p r e s i d e n t Walter von Känel. This doesn’t come as a surprise from a man who spent his entire childhood at the top of the SaintImier Valley in the Bernese Jura canton, the heart of Swiss watchmaking.

“When I was a boy, the great Longines company in the foothills of Saint-Imier, where most of the people of our region worked, always impressed me,” he says.

“I was convinced that one day, I would work there. Already at the time, watchmaking was the thriving force of our region, and I knew that it would enable me to discover the world.”

In 1969, von Känel joined Longines as a sales executive, and shortly thereafter he was sent to New York for a training course with the then Longines Wittnauer Watch Company. But it was his passion for watchmaking, his talent as a negotiator, and his strong personality that helped him climb the ladder quickly and saw him become Longines CEO in 1988.

With the celebration of the 60th anniversary of Longines’ Flagship a buzz at Baselworld 2017, it’s fitting that von Känel is in a particularly reminiscent mood. The first Flagship, sold in 1957, was a big success.

The classic men’s watch, something you’re likely to see wrapped around Don Draper’s wrist, is simply emblematic of the Mad Men era. This period marked great commercial achievement for the Longines brand, something it is, no doubt, looking

to emulate 60 years later. The original silver opaline dial, thin (almost nonexistent) bezel, and fine lugs blend artistic refinery with technical triumph thanks to the hand-wound calibre 30L. Like a flagship, the one ship carrying the naval commander, the Longines watch carrying this name is top of the range and the most advanced piece of horology in this watchmaker’s collection.

To indicate the importance of the Flagship, the caseback has been stamped with the relief of a caravel, the distinctive small, fast and admirable ship that was used to traverse the seas to the New World in the 16th and 17th centuries. To mark

Longines’ momentous anniversary, the company has reissued a limited heritage edition of the Flagship timepiece in steel, yellow, and rose (not plated) gold. Much to the true collector’s delight, the caravel motif on the caseback returns too.

The Flagship is no longer powered by a manual calibre, however, but by a modified ETA 2892, which has been made exclusively for Longines.

The yellow- and rose-gold editions have been limited to just 60 pieces each, while 1 957 steel versions are available, as a nod to the model’s birth year. A brown leather strap completes this elegant reissue, one that current Longines

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ambassador Kate Winslet has claimed as a personal favourite, which, of course reminds us that this throwback now successfully exists in a modern era, where women favour men’s watches too.

When questioned on both the brand and his own personal success, von Känel mentions reliability as the company’s main driving force. “Since I’ve been in charge, I’ve made it my goal to ensure that we have a consistency and a continuation policy.

I also think that it’s important to stay in our own league, to focus on what we do, and to do it well,” he says. “That’s why I’m now on my 29th passport. I’m always travelling to see what’s going on in the field.”

report back

CHOPARD HAS TRANSFORMED A 342CT DIAMOND, DISCOVERED IN THE SANDS OF THE KALAHARI, INTO A SHOWSTOPPING FINE-JEWELLERY COLLECTION. CHOPARD ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AND CO-PRESIDENT CAROLINE SCHEUFELE SPEAKS ABOUT THE DISCOVERY AND THE FEMME POWER THAT INSPIRES HER

the queen of

DIAMONDS tex t YVONNE SHAFF

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hen Chopard artistic director and co-president Caroline Scheufele clapped eyes on the pure clarity of the 342ct stone, she immediately knew what she would call it: the Queen of the Kalahari. The name was a tribute not only to the desert where the stone was mined, but also to the woman miner who discovered it.

“I think it’s amazing that it was a woman miner who found it. Diamond mining always used to be a man’s job,” Scheufele says.

Upon hearing about the stone, Scheufele immediately flew in to Botswana to meet the woman who discovered it, and made the decision to acquire one of the largest diamonds ever found. The six-piece collection created from the Queen of the Kalahari is called The Garden of Kalahari, and is a versatile and playful set that Scheufele hopes will have the owner wearing it in many different ways. When the set was unveiled in Paris earlier this year, the miner herself was flown in, as Scheufele wanted her to witness the beautiful results of her discovery.

Scheufele feels strongly that women’s attitudes to fine jewellery have changed in recent years, with diamonds worn as much with jeans and T-shirts as they are on the red carpet.

“Women are also buying their own jewellery now, and they know what they like,” she emphasises.

Chopard is well known for dressing many leading women for the red carpet, and Scheufele says her experience has been that each one of these stars has had a very clear idea of what she was prepared to wear.

This new mood was reflected in the collections that Chopard launched at the Baselworld watch and jewellery show earlier this year. The Ice Cube collection, for instance, is a modern set of designs with clean lines aimed at the younger market, with Rihanna as the face of the campaign.

But there’s been a touch of nostalgia too, with 1970s favourites including tiger’s eye, malachite, and onyx all making an appearance in the Happy Hearts collection. Scheufele remembers how popular these stones were in the Chopard collections of her youth, and when she spotted them again while walking through the Chopard museum, she decided it was time to revisit the company’s heritage.

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The Garden of Kalahari secret watch

ICONS REVISITED

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ITALIAN STYLE

The uber-designers at Dolce & Gabbana have come up with a watch design that’s more jewellery than timepiece and a feminine delight in every way. The Sofia watch is a delicate treasure in an 18kt rose-gold case with a sapphire glass featuring geometrical facets mimicking a gemstone. Resting on a silky satin strap available in various muted-nude colours, the Sofia is the ultimate evening accessory.

Dolce & Gabbana Sofia watches in 18kt rose gold with faceted sapphire glass and satin straps

A MODERN CLASSIC

A TRIBUTE TO THE 1950s

R o l e x h a s in t r o d u c ed three new versions of the Oyster Perp etual .

C o s m o g r a p h D ay t ona in 18kt yel l ow, white, a nd Everose gol d .

T h e s e n e w ve r s io ns have been f itted on the sup er- m od er n a nd in n o v a t ive O y s t er f l ex bracel et in el a stom er, reinforced with a m e t a l b l a d e , a nd a re equip p ed with a m onob l oc Cera chrom b e z e l , p a t e n t e d b y R ol ex, in bl ack cera m ic. It’s a b l end of high t e ch n o l o g y a n d s l e ek a esthetics, and p ays trib ute to the herita ge o f t h is l e ge n d a r y chronog rap h. The bl ack bezel is rem iniscent o f t h e 19 6 5 m o d el tha t wa s f itted with a bl ack Pl exig l as bezel in s e r t . L ike a l l R ol ex watches, these new Cosm og rap h D aytona ve r s io n s c a r r y the Sup erl ative Chronom eter cer tif ica tion r e d e f i ned by R ol ex in 2015. ro lex.com

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lancpain revisited the old-world glamour of the fab fifties with a modern interpretation of the classic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Originally designed by one-time Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter to time the elite French military divers, the watch, which is water resistant to 300m, became something of a diving standard.

Fiechter, himself a professional diver, understood the importance and life-saving potential of a reliable diving watch, so he created a double-sealed crown system to ensure water resistance, as well as an effective sealing system for the caseback. Later, Blancpain also introduced a unidirectional rotating bezel, a world-first feature that ensured safety during a dive, as well as a super-readable dial.

Fast-forward to 2017, and the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC has been fitted with Blancpain’s in-house automatic winding Caliber 1151, comprising 210 components and a four-day power reserve.

Nestled in a 40mm stainless-steel case, the movement, as well as its solid-gold winding rotor and Blancpain logo, are visible through the clear sapphire caseback.

The Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC has been produced in a limited edition of 500, and comes with a choice of straps: Nato, sailcloth, or a steel bracelet with a secure buckle. blancpain.com/en

The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms reinterprets a classic from the 1950s

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona on Oysterflex bracelet available in 18kt Everose gold, R370 000; yellow gold, R353 800; and white gold, R370 000

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A FEAST OF GLAMOUR

A RARE FIND

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he Mare Nostrum was the first chronograph in the history of Officine Panerai. Its origins are somewhat mysterious: according to historians, the first prototypes appeared in 1943 and were intended for deck officers of the Royal Italian Navy, but they never went into production.

One of these prototypes was acquired for the collection of the Panerai Museum just a few years ago, meaning this model with its unique characteristics could be reconstructed.

The box of this special edition of 1 000 units also contains a surprise for collectors: inside the elegant wooden box is a little model of the Luigi Durand De La Penne, the destroyer of the Italian Navy launched in 1993. It was named in honour of Admiral Durand De La Penne, who in 1941 had taken part in the celebrated attacks in the port of Alexandria in Egypt, for which he and other commandos equipped with Panerai instruments were awarded the Gold Medal for Valour. It was on the destroyer Luigi Durand De La Penne that the Mare Nostrum of 1993 was presented for the first time, on September 10 of that year.

As well as the model, the box contains a screwdriver and a second leather strap with a sewn-on buckle

AT THE SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE, SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MAISONS IN THE WORLD REVEALED TIMEPIECES THAT ARE DESIGNED FOR EVERYDAY LUXURY AND ELEGANCE The new two-tone Vacheron Constantin Overseas

THE MARE NOSTRUM CHRONOGRAPH, ONE OF THE RAREST MODELS CREATED BY PANERAI, IS NOW AVAILABLE AGAIN AS A SPECIAL EDITION, REPRODUCING THE VERSION CREATED IN 1993, WITH A 42MM STEEL CASE AND BLUE DIAL

REIMAGINING THE PANTHER

The Panthère de Cartier, re-released this year

Some of the biggest news from Cartier this year has been the unveiling of a brandnew collection of Panthère timepieces. Well known as the symbol of the brand, this stealthy cat returns in all manner of materials, with the limited-edition black-lacquer and rose-gold edition and the spotted panther-print diamond design certain to become coveted collectibles.

The new Panthère comes in two sizes: small and medium, with 22mm and 27mm diameters, respectively.

E V E R Y DAY ELEGANCE

cartier.com

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It’s not often that Vacheron Constantin comes up with an everyday watch, but the new two-tone Overseas certainly lives up to this intention. There are six new models in this collection, including four 37mm options in combinations of stainless steel and rose gold, a 41mm, and a 42.5mm chronograph. Combining luxury with sporty elegance, the two-tone Overseas comes with interchangeable straps that don’t need a tool to change them. We’re crazy about this casual chic. vacheron-constantin.com

A NEW WAVE

beauty

THERE’S SOMETHING MAJOR HAPPENING IN THE WORLD OF FRAGRANCE. WITH EVERYONE LUSTING AFTER THE LATEST CULT BRAND, INCREASINGLY UNUSUAL INGREDIENT COMBINATIONS, AND BOTTLE DESIGNERS PUSHING THE CREATIVITY ENVELOPE, WE’RE SPOILT FOR CHOICE

W

ith the redefinition of the term “luxury”, there’s been an evolution in how fragrance is perceived and even consumed.

Cult and celebrity-driven make-up brands have seen exponential growth, and, over and above that, the fragrance industry has been making waves of its own by bringing in innovative ingredient combinations, promoting “rock star” master perfumers, and doing its best to cater to ever-changing consumer behaviour.

ornate flacons, bottles, and vials. But there’s also a definite trend towards the pared-down look, with the latest release from the House of Chanel — Gabrielle, the first new fragrance in 15 years for the French couturier — with its almost diaphanous minimalist glass bottle being a case in point. “Luxury is what you don’t see,” grande dame of fashion Coco Chanel is quoted as saying in the descriptor that’s been released with the fragrance. Luxury has taken on a more subtle approach, with the focus being on brand heritage, and the overall fragrance experience itself, rather than on eye-catching packaging.

It’s what’s in the bottle that counts There was a time when luxury in the world of fragrance seemed to be characterised by opulence to the point of ostentation, and there will, of course, always be highly

A niche demand Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and Elie Saab are among the fashion houses that have had fragrances complementing their clothing lines for a while now, and other designers

OF SCENT tex t

NO KU BONGA THU SI

F R O M N I C H E TO D E S I G N E R LU X U R Y, T H E S E A R E T H E M O S T LU S T-W O R T H Y F R A G R A N C E S C U R R E N T LY O N O U R R A D A R

Jimmy Choo Man Ice EDT, 100ml, R1 095

La Prairie Midnight Rain EDP, 50ml, R1 900

Bulgari Man Black Essence EDP, 100ml, R1 705

Dunhill Icon Racing EDP, 100ml, R1 595

Montblanc Legend Night EDT, 100ml, R1 295

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T

beauty

have followed suit, with Louis Vuitton being one of the latest of the big-name brands getting in on the trend.

It’s been a hit with consumers, as it’s the most affordable way to own a little bit of designer magic. But the “priced just right” designer fragrances became too accessible, and there was a risk that the appeal of designer brands, in the context of fragrance, could diminish. The thinking went that, like fashion, fragrance needed prêt-a-porter and haute couture to maintain exclusivity in a world that was starting to have access to almost everything — and so the idea of the private fragrance collection was born.

“Niche is becoming the new mainstream,” explained Benoît Verdier, co-founder of avant-garde Parisian fragrance house Ex Nihilo, now available locally at Skins Cosmetics.

“That is why the big brands started — very gently — to do private collections. That was the first step, but now they don’t have the capacity to do it by themselves, but they still want the cool factor of niche, so that’s why you’ll find them buying brands such as Kilian or Frederic Malle.”

The personal touch The niche fragrance market has given way to a micro trend: personalisation, and even demi-bespoke fragrance creations. It is no longer enough to just buy into the niche fragrance brands that only a handful of people could own, but also necessary to have those niche scents customised to your individual taste. Brands such as Burberry and Atelier Cologne have jumped onto the customisation bandwagon by making it possible to have your name or initials monogrammed on the My Burberry bottle or having your Atelier Cologne tucked into a leather pouch embossed with your name.

“Personalisation — it’s the root of luxury,” Verdier said. “Everybody wants to be unique. Everybody wants a limited edition or something new.

“It was always the history of fragrance to be unique, like haute couture. When you went for haute couture, you were asking for a dress that they made especially for you.”

Dolce & Gabbana The One EDT, 100ml, R1 600

Experimenting with ingredients An interesting trend is that ingredients previously reserved for women’s fragrances are now being used in those targeting men. At recent fragrance launches, for instance, vanilla and lavender were included in men’s fragrances for a touch of seduction and a layer of complexity.

The ocean-fresh and musky-leather scents traditionally associated with men have now taken a backseat, with layered woody scents and calming oriental florals with a slight sweetness at the base coming to the fore.

According to Verdier, fragrances that contain synthetic scents are also creating a frisson at the moment, especially now that there’s been some attention to the safety aspect.

Synthetics have had a bad rap, but if they’re safe, they could have a number benefits, such as not causing allergies, and lasting longer.

“I think that in terms of innovation, ingredients will be the next big thing,” Verdier predicted.

“Super-organic, original, curated, trusted materials on the one hand and on the other, super-technological, 100% synthetic fragrances.”

The millennial effect The luxury market generally has been grappling with the role of millennials, with questions raised about how established brands should adapt to this growing — and sometimes very influential — market.

The focus for most beauty and fashion brands in recent years has been the incorporation of social media, as well as bringing fresh air and relatability to exclusive brands.

“This is very characteristic of Dubai and the Middle East,” Verdier commented. “The buyers are very young, they have all the information because of social media — and they have the power of purchase. So when we try to buy some loyalty from them, they all do the personalisation thing, and in the end, they have a special number with their name, so we know exactly what they like. For us, the next step is to create close relationships with a database.

But it all depends on the market.”

“Everybody wants a limited edition or something new.

It was always the history of fragrance to be unique, like haute couture” Benoît Verdier, co-founder, Ex Nihilo

Issey Miyake L’Eau Majeure d’Issey EDT, 100ml, R1 175

Elie Saab Girl of Now EDP, 90ml, R1 795

Chanel Gabrielle EDP, 100ml, R2 465

My Burberry Blush EDP, 90ml, R1 695

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And Issey created

L’eau

A FRAGRANCE ICON THAT BOTTLED THE SCENT OF WATER ON A WOMAN’S SKIN CELEBRATES 25 YEARS OF PURITY THE SCENT

Composed by legendary perfumer Jacques Cavallier, L’Eau d’Issey tells the story of a burst of freshness, both aquatic and vegetal thanks to the lotus, with its moist and delicate scent, combined with freesia. Then it unveils its floral heart, overflowing with peony and white lily. To arouse our curiosity, it adds a hint of spicy carnation. Finally, it leads us onto a soft and mysterious trail, infused with wood and osmanthus.

THE BOTTLE

Legend has it that one evening in Paris, Miyake saw the moon shining above the Eiffel Tower. The idea of a crystalline bead on top of a glass bottle was born.

To reach essential beauty, Issey believes it’s necessary to simplify. He chose a bottle that transcends time and fashion for L’Eau d’Issey.

Nothing artificial. Nothing ornamental.

Nothing deceptive. To design this bottle, Miyake called on two eclectic designers: Alain de Mourgues and Fabien Baron.

They drew the sculpture and architecture of L’Eau d’Issey: a round, conical shape, a silhouette as slender as a stretching line. To evoke poetry and the constant movement of flowing water, the satin-finished silver bottle stopper was given a glass bead that appeared suspended, like a tightrope walker balancing on a wire between the earth and sky.

“With mind and honesty, I only do half of the work.

The woman who wears one of my garments or my fragrance does the other half. I give birth to it. She brings it to life in an indispensable communion” Issey Miyake

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL JOUANNEAU 2002

I

n 1992 Japanese designer Issey Miyake created a surprise. In a market dominated by opulence and ostentatious luxury, the master of simplicity imagined the fragrance of purity – the scent of water on a woman’s skin.

The revolutionary fragrance he created, L’Eau d’Issey, is today an undisputed icon of perfumery and remains one of the most luxurious and pure scents ever made.

The name of the fragrance was as simple as it was strange. Water being an essential element for Miyake, he chose to name his fragrance L’Eau d’Issey.

It was a vital name, meaningful and overflowing with energy. Happiness, innocence, purity, freshness, and vitality would flow from it.

When one enters Miyake’s universe, one should expect the unexpected and let go of old habits. It was, therefore, fitting that the unconventional designer would create a fragrance that was also totally free from influence and fashion.

It was a name and a fragrance that was strong and made to last. This year, the revolutionary fragrance L’Eau d’Issey celebrates 25 years of providing sensory pleasure.

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for him

GIFT

IDEA S

From eye-catching cufflinks to wine coasters for the ultimate connoisseur, we’ve rounded up some gift suggestions for the toughest person on your list

for the man who has it all

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1. Wedding band, R2 599, Sterns 2. Fluted cufflinks with emeralds in white gold, R72 995, FabergĂŠ 3. Cufflinks in rose gold, R18 500, Audemars Piguet 4. Card holder, R2 800, Bulgari 5. Ring in steel with iron-plated detail, R1 415, Arthur Kaplan 6. Money clip in steel and black lacquer, R4 150, Santos de Cartier 7. Plate-pendant necklace, R1 410, Calvin Klein

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for him

9 Move bangle with 0.26ct diamonds in titanium and graphite, R36 900, Messika

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10 Mille Miglia bracelet in rose gold with black rubber strap, R4 960, Chopard

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12 13

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8. Wallet in ostrich leather, R3 500, Vana 9. iPad cover in python leather, R6 000, Vana 10. Peerless quartz pen, R5 995, Cross 11. Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Edition 1931 pen, R41 8140, Montblanc 12. Sunglasses, R850, Swatch 13. Meerkat coaster in bronze, R5 100, Donald Greig 14. Krugerrand lapel pin, R2 250, South African Mint

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BRO BRACELETS

Bracelet, R399, Sterns

Plate bracelet, R1 080, Calvin Klein

where to find it

stockists American Swiss americanswiss.co.za Arthur Kaplan arthurkaplan.co.za Audemars Piguet available at Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011 325 4119

IWC Schaffhausen 011 317 2600

Baume & Mercier 011 317 2600 Blancpain available at Elegance Jewellers 011 684 1380; Tanur Collection 021 418 5524 Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011 325 4119/021 418 1889 Breguet available at Elegance Jewellers 011 684 1380; Tanur Collection 021 418 5524 Bulgari 011 883 1325 Buren available at Edgars 0800 203 925/ 011 495 1952; Sterns sterns.co.za

Messika 021 418 1889 Michel Herbelin 011 448 2210 Montblanc 011 317 2600 Murdocks 021 419 0302

Calvin Klein 011 911 1200 Cartier 011 666 2800 Charles Greig 011 325 6881 Chopard available at Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011 325 4119 Cross 011 448 2210 Donald Greig donaldgreig.co.za Elegance Jewellers 011 684 1380/ 011 615 5357/011 784 0047 Fabergé 083 266 7517 Forevermark available at Carat Co 021 424 5141/079 187 9863 Gemfields 083 266 7517/010 900 4266 Graff 021 885 8160 Guess available at American Swiss Jewellers americanswiss.co.za; Sterns sterns.co.za

Jaeger-LeCoultre 011 317 2600 Longines 011 911 1200

Omega 011 911 1200

L E T T H E J E W E L L E R Y CO U N C I L O F S O U T H A F R I C A W O R K F O R YO U

Panerai available at Charles Greig 011 325 6881; Elegance Jewellers 011 684 1380/011 615 5357/011 784 0047; Panerai Boutique 011 784 0012 Patek Philippe 011 784 2595

• The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a non-profit organisation that represents almost 2 000 members in the industry.

• Membership of the council is open for all those in the jewellery industry, including wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, and those providing jewellery to the industry.

• Under the Jewellery Council of South Africa Code of Ethics and Conduct, members pledge the following: o To conduct business in a manner befitting the status of a Jewellery Council member at all times. o To ensure that every purchaser is satisfied, and to render prompt and efficient service. o To offer service based on the highest ethical standards.

Rado 011 911 1200 Rolex 011 784 9230; rolex.com Rotary 011 448 2210 Shemer Jewellers 011 622 4735/6900 Sterns sterns.co.za Swatch 011 911 1200 Tag Heuer available at Boutique Haute Horlogerie 011 325 4119 Tanur Collection 021 418 5524 Tissot 011 911 1200 Tommy Hilfiger available at Edgars 0800 203 925/011 495 1952 Tudor tudorwatch.com TW Steel 011 448 2210 Vacheron Constantin 011 317 2600 Vana available at Graff 021 885 8160 Veronica Anderson Jewellery 011 268 2021

o To maintain the highest level of personal and professional integrity. o To earn, establish, and maintain a reputation for giving value at a fair price. o To avoid untruthful or misleading statements in publicity and/or advertising. o To refrain from belittling the value and/or quality of merchandise supplied by competitors/colleagues. o To submit to arbitration, in case of a dispute between member and customer, or member and supplier, or member and member.

• Purchasing jewellery and watches from the Jewellery Council of South Africa members ensures your own protection — look out for the Jewellery Council of South Africa logo to identify a member.

jewellery.org.za

Hugo Boss 011 372 6000

Assorted Gi! stacking rings, Elegance Jewellers

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THE WORDSMITH Alice Edy is an artist based in Cape Town. Alice read her Honours in Fine Arts (Wits) and her Masters in Literature (UCT) and is interested in writing - as both noun and verb. @aliceedy THE TOOLS Oblique penholder with NikkoG nib and Parker Quink

last word

Our wordsmith Alice Edy is an artist based in Cape Town. Edy obtained her honours in fine arts (Wits) and her master’s in literature (UCT) and is interested in writing — as both noun and verb. @aliceedy THE TOOLS Oblique penholder with NikkoG nib and Parker Quink

Cross pens gifted for generations

CLASSIQU E 7147

HISTORY IS STILL BEING WRITTEN ...

N A P O L É O N B O N A PA R T E ( 1 7 6 9 - 1 8 2 1 ) I C O N I C B R E G U E T C L I E N T – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M