Wanted: the watches, jewellery and luxury annual edition

WANTED WATCHES, JEWELLERY, AND LUXURY

wanted WATC H E S , J E W E L L E R Y, A N D LU X U R Y 2 0 1 8 / 9

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph

TIME

TRAVELLER

2018/19

DIAMONDS, PEARLS, AND SERIOUSLY SMART WATCHES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Report-back from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

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COLLECTOR’S TREASURY Extraordinary watches to make your day

The watch trends you need to know about

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Jewellery that brings hardhitting glamour with a touch of femininity

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THE LUXURY REPORT

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News and views from the style capitals of the world

Boy bling: top-notch accessories for him

WJL EDITION 2018/19

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CONTENTS

contents EDITOR JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY (jacquie@mwebbiz.co.za) MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure 011 280 5605 or 082 446 0747 (mcclurem@tisoblackstar.co.za) ART DIRECTION 1905 design BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi (thusin@tisoblackstar.co.za) SUBEDITOR Joey Kok FINAL EYE Theresa Mallinson EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR Sinead Martin CONTRIBUTORS Gary Cotterell, Malcolm Dare, Debbie Hathway, Riaan Nair BUSINESS DAY EDITOR Lukanyo Mnyanda PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras GENERAL MANAGER GROUP SALES AND MARKETING Reardon Sanderson MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill BUSINESS MANAGER & ADVERTISING HEAD Yvonne Shaff 082 903 5641 or 021 439 4907 (SHAFFY@TISOBLACKSTAR.CO.ZA) ADVERTISING ASSISTANT Yvette Mehl 021 439 4907 (yvette@yvonneshaff.co.za) Printed by Paarl Media for Tiso Blackstar Group, 16 Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2196

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Stockists

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Win a ring worth R40 000, courtesy of the Jewellery Council of South Africa

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A WORLD OF STYLE

The year’s most talkedabout timepieces

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IN THEIR WORDS

TREND REPORT

Wisdom from the watchmakers

Object of desire

OUR COVERS

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FABERGÉ & GEMFIELDS Pendants, from $4 500, Fabergé; rings, from R14 600, Gemfields; makeup: Dolce & Gabbana

GRAFF From top: Carissa earrings and Carissa necklace, both price on request, both Graff; makeup: Dolce & Gabbana

SEE PAGE 54

PHOTOGRAPHY MALCOLM DARE, MODEL ADEOLA/BOSS HAIR AND MAKEUP SAM SCARBOROUGH

LORRAINE EFUNE, VAN DEIJL, SHEMER, AND CHRISTOFF Neckpiece, price on request, Lorraine Efune; rings, from R38 500, Van Deijl, Shemer, and Christoff; makeup: Dolce & Gabbana

The must-have colours for the season

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra, R447 000

SEE PAGE 62

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PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut Chronograph, price on request

RICHARD MILLE RM 07-01 for women, price on request

CALIBER RM 07-01

www.richardmille.com

upfront

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ed’s letter A WORLD OF STYLE

C O N T R I BU TO R S

WHETHER YOU’RE A TECHIE OR AN AESTHETE, IT’S BEEN A MEMORABLE YEAR FOR THE LUXURY-WATCH INDUSTRY

’ve always been a little embarrassed to admit it, but my passion for watches is all about looks and, to be honest, the working parts simply haven’t captured my imagination as much as they do those of many more respectable aficionados.

The timeless style of a steel Rolex Oyster, the retro appeal of an antique Omega Seamaster, or the exquisite femininity of a jewel-like mini D de Dior — this is what speaks to me.

So it was with some relief when Mehdi Rajan, the incoming regional brand director of IWC Schaffhausen, acknowledged over coffee recently that watches are no longer an essential method of telling the time, and the industry finds itself having to cater to a constantly evolving audience. Everyone has to find their unique emotional connection to a timepiece, either because of the remarkable craftsmanship that goes into making it or its incredibly good looks (that’s me).

This edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery, and Luxury — the annual showcase of the year’s most beautiful and mechanically brilliant watches, as well as jewellery to melt your heart — is dedicated to all those lovers of both beauty and craftsmanship out there.

Jacquie

GARY COTTERELL

MALCOLM DARE

SINEAD MARTIN

PHOTOGRAPHER

CO-ORDINATOR

Your most stylish city in the world and why? Tokyo, for its rich culture and fashion.

The watch of your dreams?

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in stainless steel with blue grande tapisserie dial.

Your idea of luxury? Old friends, long walks, and an unrestricted travel pass.

Your most stylish city in the world and why? Paris.

I find the fashion, people, and lifestyle cutting edge.

The Parisians set trends that many other cities follow.

The watch of your dreams?

The Breitling Navitimer.

Your idea of luxury? To explore exotic destinations.

Your most stylish city in the world and why? Porto in Portugal. I love how effortlessly cool the women dress there.

The watch of your dreams?

The Panthère de Cartier.

Your idea of luxury? A plush yoga studio and a state-ofthe-art connected watch.

WATCH WRITER

S T E V E TA N C H E L L

C O L I N O ’ M A R A D AV I S

Your most stylish city in the world and why? Jozi. We have our own aesthetic that transcends the generic style that you will find on every other high street.

The watch of your dreams?

A vintage Bulova Quartz.

Your idea of luxury? Taking time to enjoy what you have.

Your most stylish city in the world and why? Rome.

There’s something magical about an ancient city colliding with the current.

The watch of your dreams?

Could it be anything but the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse?

Your idea of luxury? Time.

PHOTOGRAPHER

ILLUSTRATOR

AN

wantedonline.co.za

WantedOnlineSA

WantedOnlineSA

WantedOnlineSA

F O R O N G O I N G C O V E R A G E O F WA T C H A N D J E W E L L E R Y N E W S A N D I N S P I R A T I O N , D O N ’ T M I S S O U R D A I L Y U P D A T E S O N WA N T E D O N L I N E . C O . Z A THE TUDOR BLACK BAY TIMEPIECE STRIKES A NOSTALGIC CHORD WITH PEPSI FANS No matter what your camp — Coke or Pepsi — this watch has fans bubbling over

FROM ONE LEGEND TO ANOTHER

The much-coveted Bulgari B.zero1 ring reimagined by the late architect Zaha Hadid

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AMERICAN SWISS’ NEW MASTERPIECES COLLECTION Just in time for party season, pretty petals and exquisite jewellery from American Swiss

global trend

green is the

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N E W blue

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SPORTMAX

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GETTY IMAGES/VICTOR BOYKO

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6 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

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The watch world is fast turning green. This follows global catwalks shouting green for summer, and décor’s love affair with all things botanical.

Luxurious emeralds are definitely having a moment.

Malachite is making a comeback in high jewellery and watches, with more than one delicate women’s watch with a striking dial going green.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

1. Seamaster Olympic Games Collection, R75 000, Omega. 2. Essere Adam’s Rib earrings, price on request, Gemfields X Muse. 3. Secret Garden necklace, price on request, Chopard. 4. Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, R450 800, Rolex. 5. Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, R54 495, Frederique Constant. 6. Serpenti earrings, price on request, Bulgari. 7. Arceau Casaque in vertigo green, price on request, Hermès. 8. La Mini D Satine Malachite, R114 800, Dior. 9. Chandelier earrings, price on request, Graff. 10. True Thinline watch, R27 500, Rado

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GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

VALENTINO

GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

GETTY IMAGES/PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN

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LANVIN

red alert 2

VALENTINO

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This is the summer of colour. And the watch and jewellery world is getting into the mood, particularly when it comes to red. This summer it’s not only Valentino presenting a red frock or two – everyone’s in on the act. If you’ve got the bag, the clothes, and the shoes — get the red watch and jewels to match. If you’re feeling bold — wear red from head to toe.

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PAUL SMITH

1. Big Bang Unico Red Magic limited edition, R438 240, Hublot. 2. Spicy necklace, R1 900; Spicy earrings, R1 450; Spicy ring, R1 180; Spicy bracelet, R1 450, all Calvin Klein. 3. Ladies Automatic, R27 995, Frederique Constant. 4. Serpenti watch, R110 970, Bulgari. 5. Bag in chilli red ostrich leather, price on request, Carol Bouwer. 6. Happy bag in quilted cerise calfskin leather, price on request, Chopard. 7. Pendant, R35 000; earrings, R37 500, both Dolce & Gabbana. 8. Heritage Black Bay, R48 000, Tudor. 9. Serpenti Forever bag in shiny Roman garnet karung skin, R49 500, Bulgari

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GETTY IMAGES/THIERRY CHESNOT/STRINGER

GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

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GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

global trend

Dior Watches AW18_D De Dior Satine Acier_COOP Architects of Time_FPC Eng_Wanted Watches Magazine Sz (275 x 335mm).ai

jewellery watch

A WORLD OF

STYLE From iconic designs to jaw-dropping innovation and retro inspiration, here are the newest faces from the world of watches

i l l u s t ra t i o n CO L I N O ’ M ARA DAV IS / W O NDE RM E RK STUD IO

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watch

T H E

I C O N S

Clockwise from top left: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, price on request; Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 18kt Everose gold with Cerachrom bezel insert in brown and black ceramic on an 18kt Everose-gold Oyster bracelet, R476 600; A Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar 238.026 in rose gold, R531 000

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watch

D E E P

B L U E

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Clockwise from top left: Hublot Big Bang Meca10 in blue ceramic with 10-day power reserve, R367 840; Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with Cerachrom bezel insert in red and blue ceramic on a Jubilee bracelet, R119 900; Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic, R92 000; Breguet Marine, R326 200; Audemars Piguet Extrathin Jumbo 39mm with platinum bezel and petite tapisserie guilloche pattern on smoked-blue dial in titanium on a titanium bracelet, price on request; Omega Seamaster Dive 300, R66 000

Classic Fusion Titanium Green.

Titanium case. Self-winding chronograph movement. Green sunray dial. Green alligator strap stitched to rubber.

watch

D I A M O N D

A L E R T

Clockwise from top left: Audemars Piguet Millenary with manual winding, off-centre white mother-of-pearl dial, and bezel with pavĂŠ-set diamonds on mesh-style bracelet in 18kt pink gold, price on request; Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony 35mm automatic limited edition (eight pieces only) with a grand feu dial, hand-cut motif, and fleurissans-technique hand engraving in 18kt rose gold on a black canvas strap, price on request; Breguet Reine de Naples, R411Â 500; Patek Philippe Chronograph for women with 38mm round case, bezel with 72 diamonds, and buckle set with 27 diamonds in rose gold on shiny mink-grey hand-stitched alligator-leather strap, price on request; Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Chronor self-winding with black dial and gold sub-dials in in 18kt rose gold, price on request

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We assemble every single watch twice.

Because perfection takes time.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we

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watch

T W O - T O N E C H I C Clockwise from top: Longines Record in steel and gold, R46 000; Rolex Oyster Perpetual DateJust 36 in steel and 18kt Everose gold on an Oyster bracelet, R141 600; Cartier Panthère de Cartier medium with diamonds in rose gold and steel, R428 000; Chopard Happy Sport for women with white mother-of-pearl dial, 0.17ct sapphire, and 0.35ct diamonds, price on request

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Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet

The Longines Master Collection

watch

T H E

N E U T R A L S

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Clockwise from top left: Tudor Heritage Black Bay S & G with champagne dial on a brown fabric strap, R54 000; Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, R75Â 600; Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm automatic with white tapisserie dial with date in 18kt pink gold on a brown largescale crocodile-leather strap, price on request

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011 911 1200 / RADO.COM

RADO TRUE OPEN HEART PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.

MASTER OF MATERIALS

watch

T H E C H R O N O G R A P H S

Clockwise from top left: Chopard Mille Miglia Racing Colors in Speed Yellow, price on request; Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in 18kt yellow gold with Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic on an Oysterflex bracelet, R356 800; Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 The Legendary Chronograph, price on request; Tag Heuer Link Chronograph 41mm with Calibre 17 movement, R65 000

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TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 ASTON MARTIN SPECIAL EDITION

The pinnacle of British luxury combined with Swiss watchmaking expertise.

TAG Heuer Boutiques; Sandton City & V&A Waterfront. Also at selected fine jewellers nationwide. For further information please call 011.669.0500. www.picotandmoss.co.za

watch

M O D E R N M A N

Clockwise from top left: Longines Conquest VHP Chronograph, R22 000; Rado True Thinline, R27 500; Zenith Defy El Primero 21 openworked 44mm men’s watch with 1/100th of a second timer chronograph in brushed titanium on titanium bracelet, price on request; Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT with black dial on a black strap with burgundy stripe, R51 000; Victorinox Swiss Army Inox Professional Diver 45mm with quartz movement and case in titanium on a blue paracord strap, price on request; Raymond Weil Maestro Moonphase automatic with RW4280 movement, 41mm case in stainless steel, 38-hour power reserve, water resistance up to 50m, blue roman-numeral dial, and exhibition caseback in sapphire crystal on a Milanese bracelet with push-button clasp, R22 750

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watch

T H E S U I T S

From left: IWC Portugieser Automatic in steel, R181 000; Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition, R85 000; Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Annual Calendar, R296 400; Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Limited Edition, R176 000; Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-winding, R162 000

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watch

L I T T L E B L A C K N U M B E R S Clockwise from top left: Tag Heuer Connected Modular with 23.35ct baguette-cut, pavé-set diamonds in white gold, price on request; Hermès Slim d’Hermès Automatic Manufacture for men in stainless steel on large-scale black alligator-leather strap, R96 850; Bulgari LVCEA Tubogas with quartz movement, 28mm case in stainless steel, crown with a pink cabochon-cut stone and a diamond in stainless steel, black lacquered dial, and indexes with diamonds on a stainless steel Tubogas bracelet, price on request; Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36 with black dial on a steel bracelet, R40 500; Omega De Ville Trésor, R70 000

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watch

T H E S K E L E T O N S

Clockwise from top left: Richard Mille Limited Edition PRM 53-01 Pablo Mac Donough with skeletonised tourbillon, cable-held movement, and black thin-ply technology carbon case on turquoise rubber strap, price on request; Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, price on request; Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton large with 9611MC manual movement in steel on two interchangeable leather straps, R418Â 000

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industry report The world of fine watchmaking meets in the Swiss canton at an exclusive invite-only event that serves as a bellwether for the watch industry tex t RIAAN NAIR

other

THE

E

very January, watch retailers, VIPs, collectors, and the media descend on chilly Geneva in Switzerland to spend four days in the halls of the Palexpo convention centre to get up close and personal with the haute horology that will set the trend for the coming year.

Welcome to the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), referred to as the Davos of fine watchmaking. The annual event serves as a bellwether for the haute-horology industry. Unlike Baselworld, the industry’s oldest trade fair and a bit of a free for all, the SIHH is an invitation-only jamboree featuring predominantly high-end luxury brands. While Baselworld hosted about 1 500 exhibitors at its peak, the SIHH had only 34 exhibitors in 2018.

The SIHH is a more exclusive curated experience. It began in 1991, when Cartier and four other brands — Baume & Mercier, Gérald Genta, Daniel Roth, and Piaget — broke away from Baselworld and showed privately in Geneva. The first edition of the SIHH was held over five days and took up 4 500m2 at Palexpo. By the turn of the millennium, the number of exhibitors had swelled to 17, and floor space was extended to 18 000m2.

By 2010, the list of exhibitors included all of the Richemont Group brands, Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Richard Mille. The year 2016 saw the welcome introduction of Carré des Horlogers — a section devoted to independent watchmakers, including Christophe Claret, De Bethune, H Moser & Cie, Kari Voutilainen, Hautlence, HYT, Laurent Ferrier, MB&F, and Urwerk. In 2016, the SIHH also welcomed the general public for the first time, on the last day of the fair.

There was a renewed energy at the SIHH 2018, with 2017 being a good year for the Swiss watch industry. A 2.7% increase in watch exports — on the back of sharp turnarounds in key markets including China and Hong Kong — may not seem like much to some, but given the turbulence in the watch industry’s recent past, brands will gladly take any increase.

What was obvious during the 2018 presentations was that product-development teams had spent time listening to customer feedback. Also, a lot of the novelties seemed relevant to the times we live in, and the words “value” and “affordable”

“Welcome to the SIHH, referred to as the Davos of fine watchmaking”

G E N E VA C O N V E N T I O N

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— terms that seem anathema to the SIHH’s founding principles — were thrown around like confetti. But it was not just about sensible price tags. The customer-centric approach was evident in the introduction of details such as interchangeable straps and bracelets. Clearly, the world of smartwatches has offered some lessons to the industry.

There has been talk about the future of trade shows given brands trickling out of both fairs. The Swatch Group — Baselworld’s biggest exhibitor — has pulled out, citing irrevocable differences with the organisers. Swatch Group head Nick Hayek also told the Financial Times the SIHH is “a close, elite club”, before finishing with the incendiary observation, “It is boring for everybody.” Van Cleef & Arpels has opted out of the 2019 edition because of concerns about how the SIHH has gone from being a trade fair to more of “a platform for expression, communication, and press”. Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille will be leaving the SIHH after 2019, although this has more to do with a change in their retail strategy.

However, thirty-five exhibitors —18 historic maisons and 17 independents, including newcomer Bovet — have confirmed participation in 2019. While it may be premature to write off trade fairs, what is certain is that they will need to evolve to stay relevant in an increasingly digital world.

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watch trends 2018/19

T H E T I M E O F O U R L I V E S

t ext GARY COTTERELL i m a g es SUPPLIED Longines HydroConquest

From haute horlogerie to high fashion, limited editions to notable anniversaries — this has been a year of some major technological and design milestones in the global watch industry

F

ashion is often described as cutting edge, but seldom as futuristic. Fashion appropriates, and its creatives are usually more retrospective in their storytelling — the adoption of technological advances and environmentally friendly materials aside — yet it still directs and captures the spirit of the day.

If fashion is the outward expression of our current state of mind, at least then its present ’80s bent is a fitting reflection on the turning point in our “connected” history. The ’80s was the decade before the internet became publicly available.

Communication was by fixed line, public call box, and some groundbreaking global print-media titles.

The ’80s provides an accessible reference point for a new generation seeking self-expression and some respite from our obsessively over-connected world.

With a premonition of what lay ahead, musicians synthesised beats and launched us into the future at a relentless 140bpm.

The ’80s also brought a sigh of relief to the Swiss watch industry’s near-death experience of the previous decade, thanks to co-founder of the Swatch Group Nicolas George Hayek, who took on the Asian manufacturers by introducing Swiss-

made excellence to the manufacture of quartz movements. Yet it’s the very fine mechanical movements that quartz almost killed that a new generation is now rediscovering. The number of impressive releases and the list of finalists in the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Challenge category, which salutes excellence in watches produced for less than Sf4 000 (about R58 000), include the Seiko Presage Shippo Enamel and Tudor Black Bay GMT to feed the trend.

While the world appears to be going gender neutral, the watch industry continues to woo women with “manly” complications in appropriately sized cases. Although women have been neglected for decades, their desire for fine watchmaking actually dates back to the 1800s. Of course these were largely very exclusive pieces made by Breguet and Patek Philippe for the nobility.

It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the first modern commercially available wristwatches were introduced, albeit for men.

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2018 ANNIVERSARIES Decades on — more than a century in some cases — and many notable anniversaries have been falling due, including a few world-firsts from the early days of watchmaking. But the spate of celebratory editions over the past few years has not been as prolific as the desirable updates and vintage-inspired pieces featured in 2018. IWC has its 150th anniversary this year, and celebratory editions include the Tribute to Pallweber. In 1904, the Cartier Santos was the first purpose-designed wristwatch to be produced, but the redesigned and renamed Santos de Cartier celebrates its 40th anniversary with new streamlined models and a new bracelet design.

Santos de Cartier

IWC Tribute to Pallweber

watch trends 2018/19 HAUTE HORLOGERIE AND HAUTE COUTURE High-fashion brands have also joined the ranks of haute horlogerie by acquiring Swiss manufacture facilities, and there’s mounting competition from the likes of Chanel and Louis Vuitton for a place on the wrists of women who seek more than pure adornment. Add to this the boom in online luxury-goods sales, and the result is high-end watchmakers have woken up to e-commerce.

The Richemont Group leads the pack on its Neta-Porter and Mr Porter sites, with luxury watch brands such as IWC, Cartier, and Jaeger-LeCoultre among the listings.

Chanel has been making watches since 1987 when it launched the Première collection. The acquisition in 1993 of Manufacture G&F Châtelain presented Chanel with the opportunity to be highly inventive, particularly in the use of ceramics, as first seen in the iconic J12 collection. The first in-house movement, the Calibre 1, however, debuted only in 2016 with its jumping hours and instantaneous retrograde minutes featured in the covetable Monsieur de Chanel collection. The BoyFriend, with its 37mm by 28.6mm octagonal 18kt beige-gold case (also available with 66 brilliantcut diamonds gem-set on its bezel) was originally revealed in 2015, featuring an ETA 7001 manualwinding movement. This year, the collection has been updated with the most refined manualwinding Calibre 3 skeleton movement with a magnificent interlinked circular bridge.

INTO THE BLUE

Rolex Submariner Date

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m

Blancpain Automatique Grande Date

Chanel Boy-Friend

Our growing concern for the oceans and the demand for “useful”, sporty tool watches from a new wave of conscientious young collectors has seen a proliferation of dive watches.

These are accompanied by some fine vintage-inspired, classic revivals and anniversary editions.

Omega is credited with introducing the first commercially available diver in 1932 — the square, dual-cased Marine — but its familiar Seamaster came much later to coincide with its 100th anniversary in 1948. The Diver 300m was added to the Seamaster collection in 1993 and has since become one of the most popular professional dive watches. The Diver 300m model celebrates its 25th anniversary this year with 14 updates to the range. With a new 42mm case, every detail has had a rethink, including a ceramic bezel and an updated laser-etched wave pattern on the dial. For added precision, the Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 powers the collection.

Although Rolex patented its legendary watertight Oyster case in 1926, the Submariner was its first purpose-built watch, launching in 1954 to become the quintessential diver.

A new 40mm Submariner Date in Oystersteel and yellow gold with blue dial will serve you well, but if you’re on a mission to discover lost empires in a dark abyss, you’ll require the most advanced Rolex of them all. The 44mm Deepsea Sea-Dweller 126660 is the ultimate tool watch, equipped with a new-generation Calibre 3235 movement and waterproof up to an extreme depth of 3 900m.

Tudor has issued the 39mm Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which was inspired by one of its first dive watches from the ’50s. It is powered by the new Tudor manufacture Calibre MT5402 self-winding mechanical movement

with bidirectional rotor system. The Calibre MT5402 has been certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (Cosc), the institute responsible for certifying the accuracy of wristwatches in Switzerland. Like the original Submariner, the Fifty-Eight features large gold-trimmed hour markers and angular snowflake hands for perfect legibility against the blacklacquered dial.

Ulysse Nardin’s precision-navigation instruments have reliably served seafarers for more than a century.

Today, the Freak is the first piece that comes to mind when you think of the manufacturer, but it is equally renowned for its solidly built, unashamedly masculine dive collection. Apart from its unique design, the Freak made industry history as the first to feature silicon components when it launched in 2001. Requiring no lubrication and far less servicing, silicon now features in all Ulysse Nardin watches. Described as “stark yet shark”, the new 46mm hammerhead-adorned Diver Deep Dive makes a bold statement for fans of active leisure both above and up to 1 000m below the surface. Inside its impressive titanium and rubber case is the Calibre UN-320 movement with silicon spiral and anchor escapement.

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms collection includes notable reinterpretations of the first “real” dive watch from 1953, of which this year’s Fifty Fathoms Automatique Grande Date is one of my favourites. The original watch gained a huge following when it was worn by oceanographer Jacques Cousteau and his crew in the 1956 award-winning documentary film The Silent World co-directed by Louis Malle. Helped along by an earlier feature in National Geographic, the demand for his improved Aqua-Lung diving apparatus and related diving gear for more leisurely scuba pursuits went through the roof.

“The demand for ‘useful’, sporty tool watches … has seen a proliferation of dive watches”

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watch trends 2018/19

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Longines HydroConquest

Seiko Prospex

Eager to attract the millennial market, manufacturers continue to offer good value propositions for newcomers seeking the prestige of a luxury brand and mechanical movements but at a more accessible price. Young scuba enthusiasts can choose from models such as the Longines HydroConquest (starting at about R16 000), first launched in 2007 as part of a new sports collection that builds on the company’s expertise in the world of sport.

Watertight to 300m, this year’s bold-yetelegant HydroConquest collection has been reimagined, featuring an updated uni-directional, rotatable bezel with coloured ceramic inlay to complement the grey, black, or blue dial options. Seiko’s expertise in dive watches is also celebrated in new Prospex pieces that commemorate the 1968 original. Of course these are not tools for men only. Women’s tastes in watches are rapidly evolving. Tag Heuer’s Aquaracer is available this year in a new 32mm women’s version with the automatic Calibre 9 movement and features the collection’s characteristic elements with the addition of a ribbed mother-of-pearl dial, date window with built-in magnifier, and second hand with arrowhead tip.

Tag Heuer Aquaracer

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

SETTING THE STANDARD Function and precision are taking precedence over complication, with watches now expected to comply with even stricter standards than the Cosc. Examples include the Tag Heuer Carrera “Tête de Vipère” Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer, which is the brand’s first chronograph to bear the prestigious “Tête de Vipère” stamp of excellence, awarded by the Besançon Observatory, and the “futuristic” gravity-defying Zenith Defy Zero G. Some complications are worthy of inclusion as we try to simplify our lives, even if only to keep brand designers and engineers on their toes as they eagerly try to outshine each other on innovation, speed, precision, and extreme slenderness. Featuring the world’s thinnest minute repeater, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon is a case in point, as is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin. Feeling even more nostalgic? The charming 41mm stainless steel JaegerLeCoultre Polaris Memovox is an intriguing little bit of magic and beats any smartphone notification as it chimes out a gentle reminder for important rendezvous.

The emphasis has clearly shifted to practical complications, which include the moon phase, chronographs, annual calendars, and multiple time zones for the new jet set. However, the tourbillon is still the one exception to the rule this year. Although it was originally a Breguet patent, it was Audemars Piguet who revolutionised the tourbillon in the late-’80s with the first series-produced automatic version in a wristwatch.

When it comes to women’s watches, Audemars Piguet is known for spectacular avant-garde pieces such as the Diamond Outrage in 2017. This year is no exception, with the release of the women’s Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon: the first of the Concept models for women and also the first flying tourbillon to feature in the collection. Richard Mille continues to impress with highperformance, lightweight tools inspired by some of the world’s leading sports stars. This year’s RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough is made to absorb extreme impact without breaking, both on and off the polo field.

With the world on ocean watch, the moon phase is also a useful complication to track the tides through the diurnal movements of the moon and sun, while also reminding us of early navigational tools and our place in the universe. The ocean is at the heart and soul of Officine Panerai and at the top end the customisable L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT — first released in 2010 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of Galileo Galilei’s first celestial observations of the moon. This year’s

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Zenith Defy Zero G

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox

IWC Portofino HandWound Moon Phase

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher

watch trends 2018/19

Baume Iconic

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon

Officine Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor

Richard Mille Pablo Mac Donough

At the very top end there are endless opportunities for personalisation limited only by the size of your bank balance. However, customisation at entry to middle market is still limited to colourful dial choices and interchangeable straps, now made more practical through ingenious new systems such as the Cartier QuickSwitch. Variations on cool, calm, and confident blue still dominate as the main dial choice, and on some watch cases, such as the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Blue.

There will always be big watches, but small is gaining traction as the new big. This is driven by a number of factors including the focus on women, practical everyday wear watches, the development of thinner movements, and of course the revival of classics from the ’50s and ’60s. To introduce younger collectors to their portfolios, some luxury brands are making their icons more accessible by producing them in stainless steel, and we have the launch of design-led brand Baume this year, which draws on the expertise and 188-year heritage of its mother company, Baume & Mercier, to offer equally considered pieces designed by 29-year-old automotive designer Sylvain Berneron with customisation and mindful design at its core, starting at about R7 000.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

made-to-order skeletonised edition is the first watch by the company to feature moon-phase indications and a new system using polarised crystals to indicate the date. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar and moon phase is also a fine example, as is the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years”.

Despite all these wondrous miniature mechanical works of art, the beloved chronograph is this year’s number one complication.

From land to sea to air, great adventurers and our obsession with speed have largely inspired the development of wristwatches. Of the chronographs, the most spectacular pieces are inspired by the high-speed world of motor racing. The first wristwatch to feature this complication was the iconic Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow created in 1957. It was the first with its tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel — a feature designed for the benefit of racing drivers — and celebrated its 60th anniversary last year with the Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer, with this year’s update being the black-ceramic Moonwatch Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 inspired by an exhilarating endurance race of the lunar kind. This year’s chronographs also include the Chopard Mille Miglia Racing Colours, celebrating 30 years of the brand’s association with the Mille Miglia classic and vintage-car rally, and their shared love of fine mechanics and performance; the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition 100, which pays tribute to the Minerva chronograph specially developed in 1920 for use in a wristwatch; a new version of Rolex’s highly prized Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona — named after the birthplace of motor racing, Daytona Beach — in 18kt Everose gold and adorned with gemstones; and a more understated Patek Philippe Aquanaut featuring the collection’s first chronograph with the fly-back Calibre CH 28-520 C self-winding movement.

“There will always be big watches, but small is gaining traction as the new big”

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Zenith Defy El Primero 21

BACK TO BLACK Black is the new gold; hi-tech ceramic, carbon fibre, and rubber are not only lighter and more durable but offer a slightly more discrete aesthetic, especially when it comes to pieces such as the audacious Ulysse Nardin Freak Out Black or the latest update on the Zenith Defy El Primero 21, the world’s most accurate chronograph with the magic of its ground-breaking El Primero 9004 automatic movement exposed inside a black ceramic case.

ultimate T H E WATC H

PATEK PHILIPPE 5531R-001 MINUTE REPEATER WORLD TIME THE MAGIC

T H E WATC H

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER DATE THE MAGIC The Rolex Submariner has been the ultimate dive watch since the 1950s, but this year’s model is a design knock-out in 18kt white gold with a unidirectionally rotatable bezel set with nine light-blue and 27 dark-blue baguette-cut sapphires, 11 baguette-cut diamonds, and one triangular diamond at 12 o’clock. The case lugs and crown guard are set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds, and the whole design comes together with a blue dial with a sunray finish.

DREAM

time

This is the ultimate watch for the global traveller, combining two complications: the minute repeater and the world-time display — and sounding local time in two different destinations.

There are watches and then there are masterpieces. It’s impossible not to be inspired by these extraordinary limited-edition timepieces from some of the world’s leading watch manufacturers tex t SINEAD MARTIN

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ultimate

T H E WATC H

HUBLOT BIG BANG TOURBILLON CROCO HIGH JEWELLERY THE MAGIC This seriously bling collaboration with Dutch luxury brand Karmaloog comes complete with a bulletproof crocodile-leather jacket. The watch features 380 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 13.5ct that have been arranged to resemble crocodile scales. It can be worn on its own strap or clicked onto the jacket cuff.

T H E WATC H

TAG HEUER CONNECTED MODULAR 45 FULL DIAMOND THE MAGIC This watch is identical to the Tag Heuer Connected Modular, except for the fact that it comes with 589 baguette-cut, pavé-set diamonds, totalling 23.5ct, in 18kt polished white gold.

T H E WATC H

RICHARD MILLE 71-01 AUTOMATIC TOURBILLON TALISMAN THE MAGIC The brand’s first completely in-house-developed automatic tourbillon movement is made largely out of ultra-light titanium, and we love the Art Deco and tribal-inspired dial, dressed in red gold, mother of pearl, onyx, and diamonds.

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ultimate T H E WATC H

ANT FREDERIQUE CONST R PERPETUAL CALENDA ACTURE TOURBILLON MANUF THE MAGIC iversary with celebrating its 30th ann Frederique Constant is Perpetual epiece, combining the its most complicated tim a power facture Tourbillon. It has Calendar and the Manu perpetual a h 188 components and reserve of 38 hours, wit month, even the correct day, date, and calendar that will show 400 years. for ut needing adjustment, during leap years, witho

T H E WATC H

BLANCPAIN VILLERET TOURBILLON VOLANT HEURE SAUTANTE MINUTE RÉTROGRADE THE MAGIC Crafted in Blancpain’s Métier d’Arts studio using the traditional champlevé technique, this classic enamel-dial watch is a remake of the groundbreaking flying tourbillon of 1989. Collectors will appreciate the unobstructed view of the tourbillon cage, as well as the jumping hour, and retrograde minute display.

T H E WATC H

FIRST OMEGA WRISTCHRONOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION THE MAGIC The ultimate collector’s item, this Omega collection consists of just 18 watches, each one housing an original 18''' CHRO calibre from 1913, retrieved from the Omega museum vaults and refurbished

by Omega artisans. The outside design follows the look of 105 years ago, with added modern touches such as an 18kt gold hatched caseback to reveal the refurbished movement behind sapphire crystal.

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advertorial

EVERY GENERATION INSPIRES

GREATNESS THE BOSCHENDAL HERITAGE COLLECTION IS THE TRIUMPH OF A WINE ESTATE THAT HAS CELEBRATED EXCELLENCE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP FOR MORE THAN 330 YEARS

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PHOTOGRAPHY MALCOLM DARE

Suit, shirt, both Ermenegildo Zegna; Mille Miglia GTS Power Control, R95 140; Racing Superfast ballpoint, R10 969; Mille Miglia cufflinks, R14 960, all Chopard; glass, R799 for two, Riedel at Woolworths

ith a winemaking heritage spanning several generations, Boschendal estate between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek prides itself on having perfected that unique blend of traditional excellence and modern innovation.

Representing the pinnacle of this expertise is the Boschendal Heritage Collection, featuring two wines in this limited-release range.

The meticulously crafted red wines include the Boschendal Grande Syrah 2014 and Black Angus 2015.

BOSCHENDAL GRANDE SYRAH 2014

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The Grande Syrah 2014 epitomises the very best of what can be achieved with the full-bodied syrah or shiraz grape. The fruit is harvested from a very special vineyard of weathered granite soils on the south-facing Helderberg slopes in Stellenbosch. The resultant Grande Syrah wine, with its brilliant dark-crimson colour, embodies complex old-world elegance with exotic fruit notes and typical cool-climate spice.

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BOSCHENDAL BLACK ANGUS 2015

The Black Angus 2015 vintage is a sumptuous blend of shiraz, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc. The original Boschendal estate blend has been re-imagined using four varietals to deliver a rich, sophisticated, and layered wine-drinking experience.

jewellery

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jewellery

P O R T R A I T O F

A L A D Y

p h o t o g ra p h y ST E V E TANC HEL/R ED HOT OP S p ro d uc t i o n S HAR ON B EC KER

From top: Move Romane ring with 0.3ct diamonds in 18kt white gold, R88 000, Messika; five-strand spaghetti necklace with 25ct round, brilliant-cut, claw-set diamonds in 18kt white gold, R895 000, Charles Greig; Glam’Azone Skinny four-row cuff with 4.1ct oval-cut, pavé-set diamonds in 18kt white gold, R520 000; Glam’Azone ring with 0.4ct pavé-set diamonds in 18kt white gold, R49 600; My Twin trilogy ring with 1.05ct diamonds in 18kt white gold, R109 600, all Messika; (bracelets, from left) bracelet with 4.73ct round diamonds and 1.11ct baguette diamonds in 18kt white gold, price on request, Murdocks; Move Noa bangle with 1.2ct pavé-set diamonds in 18kt white gold, R176 000; My Twin Skinny Toi & Moi bangle with 0.85ct diamonds in 18kt white gold, R100 000, both Messika; hat, R1 750, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 450, Wolford

Diamonds, onyx, pearls, and gold make for a white-hot summer

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jewellery From top: Happy Hearts Happy Diamonds ring, R61 500; L’Heure du Diamant earclips, R676 200; Happy Hearts Happy Diamonds ring with natural mother of pearl and diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R99 750; Happy Hearts Happy Diamonds bangle with mother of pearl in 18kt rose gold, R88 500; l’Heure du Diamant pendant in rose gold, R589 400, all Chopard; hat, R950, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 450, Wolford

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jewellery From top: Amouage Honour EDP 100ml, R4 835, Edgars and Skins Cosmetics; handmade cluster earrings with two round and 24 round brilliant-cut diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R440 000; (rings, from left) cluster ring with South Sea Island pearls and diamonds in 18kt white gold, R58 500; ring with cultured pearls and diamonds in 18kt white gold, R31 500; ring with cultured pearls and round, brilliant-cut diamonds in 18kt white gold, R25 200; necklace with round cultured pearls, tanzanite and pavé-set-diamond flower, R187 000; double-strand necklace with round cultured Akoya pearls and pavé-setdiamond bee clasp in 18kt rose gold, R230 000; necklace and tassel with cultured pearls and round, brilliant-cut and pearshaped pavé- and clasp-set diamonds, R750 000; bracelet with pavé-set diamonds, mother of pearl and cultured Akoya pearls in 18kt rose gold, R145 000, all Charles Greig; hat, R850, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R1 785, Wolford

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VAN DEIJL vandeijl.co.za tyger valley centre 021 914-2192 somerset mall 021 852-7017

WANTED Watches, Jewellery & Luxury Supplement 26th Oct 2018.indd 1

31/07/2018 11:21

jewellery From top: Monomatapa Collection ring with diamonds in 18kt white gold and black rhodium, price on request; Dalmation Collection ring with black rose-cut and grey diamonds in 18kt white gold and black rhodium, price on request, both Lorraine Efune; neckpiece with black, white, and champagne diamonds in 18kt white gold, R165 999; bracelet with black, white, and champagne diamonds in 18kt white gold, R89 999, both Arthur Kaplan; (bottom hand rings, from left) Dalmation Collection ring with black rose-cut and grey diamonds in 18kt rhodiumplated white gold, price on request, Lorraine Efune; abstract ring with black and white diamonds in 18kt white gold, R39 999; orchid ring with black and white diamonds in 18kt white gold, R29 999, both Arthur Kaplan; hat, R950, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 210, Wolford

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I

from our exclusive N S P I R E

D

VernonJohnDesign IB1334

C OL L E C T ION

Cape Town shop 241, Upper Level, Victoria Wharf, V & A Waterfront, Tel. 021 418 1870 Johannesburg shop No. 2 Nelson Mandela Square, Tel. 011 783 7348

www.lorraineefune.com

IB1334 - Lorraine Efune MAG AD.indd 1

2018/09/03 9:52 AM

jewellery Serpenti necklace with precious mother of pearl and pavé-set diamonds, R964 790; Left-hand rings: (top right) B.zero1 three-band ring in 18kt white gold, R29 260; (top left) B.zero1 three-band ring in 18kt rose gold, R27 000; (middle right) B.zero1 three-band ring in 18kt rose gold and black ceramic, R28 995; (middle left) B.zero1 four-band ring with pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R216 080; (bottom right) B.zero1 single-band ring in 18kt rose gold, R22 700; (bottom left) Serpenti ring with mother of pearl and pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R140 530; Right-hand rings: (top left) B.zero1 four-band ring with half pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold and black ceramic, R98 860; (top middle) B.zero1 four-band ring with half pavé-set diamonds in 18kt rose gold and white ceramic, price on request; (middle) B.zero1 three-band ring in 18kt rose gold and white ceramic, R27 750; (bottom) B.zero1 single band ring in 18kt white gold, R22 700; (bottom right) B.zero1 single band ring in 18kt rose gold, R22 700; Serpenti bangle with mother of pearl scales in 18kt rose gold, R155 000, all Bulgari; hat, R950, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 450, Wolford

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TEL 011 622 4735 ADDRESS SHOP U9, BEDFORD CENTRE, BEDFORDVIEW www.shemer.co.za

Rings, from top: crossover ring with oval ruby and diamond in yellow gold, R60 000; ring with two pear-shaped rubies and diamond in yellow gold, R26 100; double-row ring with two pear-shaped rubies and diamond in yellow gold, R17 950; ring with pear-shaped diamond and ruby in yellow gold, R18 115; ring with octagon-shaped diamond and ruby in yellow gold, R41 920; ring with diamond and ruby in yellow gold, R14 600; trilogy ring with ruby and diamond in yellow gold, R7 215, all Gemfields Narciso Rouge EDP 90ml, R1 915, Edgars, Woolworths, Truworths Necklaces, from top: Palais Yelagin 14mm pendant with 0.17ct round white diamonds in 18kt rose gold on integrated chain in 18kt rose gold, $4 500; Impératrice 18mm pendant with 0.4ct round white diamonds in 18kt rose gold on chain in 18kt rose gold, $6,100; 18mm spiral pendant with 250 round white diamonds in 18kt yellow gold on chain in 18kt yellow gold, $14 000, all Fabergé; hat, R980, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R2 940, Wolford

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MAKEUP THE GLAM LIQUID LINER IN 3 DAHLIA, R640; SHEER SHINE LIP GLOSS IN 136 SECRET AND 155 AMETHYST, R545 EACH; THE PRECISION LIPLINER IN 13 LOVER, R455; INTENSE NAIL LACQUER IN 635 RED, R440, ALL DOLCE & GABBANA.

jewellery

jewellery

From top: ring with 6.38ct oval morganite and 82 diamonds in 14kt rose gold, price on request; neckpiece with 0.24ct pear-shaped diamond pendant in 18kt white gold, price on request, both Murdocks; blossom neckpiece with 11ct diamonds in 18kt white gold, R650 000; Isabella ring with 5ct morganite and 0.5ct diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R49 999, both American Swiss Coach Platinum EDP 100ml, R1 435, Edgars and Skins Cosmetics; hat, R1 750, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R5 560, Wolford

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THE AMERICAN SWISS

MASTERPIECES

GEORGIA NECKPIECE Crafted with round and baguette diamonds and set in 18ct gold. This piece radiates elegance - making it timeless and mordern.

Visit our flagship stores:

V&A Waterfront

Cavendish

Canal Walk (CPT)

|

Eastgate

Menlyn

Mall of Africa

Sandton (JHB)

Come in store to be inspired or explore the full catalogue & reserve online. www.americanswiss.co.za

|

Gateway

Westville (KZN)

jewellery

From top: Starburst drop earrings with freshwater pearls in handmade sterling silver, R3 880; necklace with dark round freshwater pearls, R16 500, both Veronica Anderson Rings, from top: handmade ring with South Sea pearl in platinum, R29 900, Veronica Anderson; ring with diamond in 18kt gold, R54 999; ring with diamond in 18kt gold, R38 999; ring with halo diamond in 18kt gold, R79 999; tennis bracelet with diamonds in 18kt gold, R187 269, all NWJ; bracelet with freshwater pearls and tanzanite clasp in handmade sterling silver, R7 200, Veronica Anderson; hat, R1 750, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R4 450, Wolford

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jewellery

Rings, from left: Flamingo ring with 5ct morganite and 0.7ct diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R59 999; Isabella ring with 5ct morganite and 0.5ct diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R49 999; ring with 2.8ct morganite and 0.43ct diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R39 999, all American Swiss; ring with pear-shaped morganite centre and diamond halo in 18kt rose gold, R45 999; ring with cushion-cut morganite centre and diamond halo in 18kt rose gold, R39 999, both Arthur Kaplan; ring with handmade mabe pearl in 9kt white gold, price on request, Van Deijl Necklaces, from top: chain with pendant with pear-shaped morganite and diamond halo in 18kt rose gold, R35 999, Arthur Kaplan; chain with pendant with 3.21ct cushion-cut morganite and 22 diamonds in 18kt white and rose gold, price on request; necklace with graded South Sea pearls and clasp in 18kt white and yellow gold, price on request; handmade bangle with 52 round, brilliant-cut diamonds in 14kt yellow and white gold, price on request, all Van Deijl; hat, R1 750, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R1 785, Wolford

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jewellery

From top (top hand rings, from left): dress ring with one oval, checkerboard-cut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R49 800; dress ring with one cushion-shaped, checkerboardcut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R34 200; dress ring with one rectangular, checkerboard-cut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R25 200, all Christoff; drop earrings with onyx and tube-set baguette-cut diamonds finished with milgrain detail in 18kt white gold, R205 000; fivestrand spaghetti necklace with 25ct claw-set, round, brilliantcut diamonds in 18kt white gold, R895 000, both Charles Greig; necklace with 25 strands of multi-faceted black onyx beads strung onto a magnetic barrel clasp, R36 000; (bottom hand rings, from left): dress ring with one oval, checkerboard-cut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R37 100; dress ring with one oval, checkerboard-cut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R35 300; dress ring with one oval, checkerboard-cut onyx and diamond in 18kt white gold, R33 800, all Christoff; Bulgari Le Gemme Calaluna EDP 30ml, R2 270, Edgars Sandton and Mall of Africa; hat, R1 930, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 695, Wolford

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Inspired by the beauty of pink, this Morganite collection embodies joy, harmony & love.

Isabella ring (top), Rose ring (middle) and The Flamingo ring (bottom)

Visit our flagship stores:

V&A Waterfront

Cavendish

Canal Walk (CPT)

|

Eastgate

Menlyn

Mall of Africa

Sandton (JHB)

Come in store to be inspired or explore the full catalogue & reserve online. www.americanswiss.co.za

|

Gateway

Westville (KZN)

jewellery

MAKEUP MILLENNIAL SKIN TINTED MOISTURISER IN #L2 CREAM, R780; THE LIFT FOUNDATION IN 60 CLASSIC, R1 495; THE GLAM LIQUID LINER IN 5 PEACOCK, R640; VOLUMIZED LASHES MASCARA IN 1 BLACK, R580; THE BROW LINER IN 5 NERO, R470; CLASSIC CREAM LIPSTICK IN 325 LADY, R635; INTENSE NAIL LACQUER IN 725 WILD GREEN, R440, ALL DOLCE & GABBANA.

From top (top hand rings, from left): crossover ring with diamonds in rose and white gold, R38 500; multi-band crossover ring with diamonds in 18kt rose and white gold, R58 500; round necklace in white gold, R167 200; flat necklace in 18kt rose gold, R186 200; tennis necklace with diamonds in 18kt white gold, R109 200; waterfall pendant with diamonds in 18kt rose gold, R80 100, all Shemer; handmade ring with one 3.647ct round, brilliant-cut diamond in 18kt yellow gold, price on request; handmade wedding band in 18kt yellow gold, price on request, both Van Deijl; Dolce & Gabbana The Only One EDP 50ml, R1 440, selected retailers; hat, R950, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R3 210, Wolford

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jewellery

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT THEMBA MOKASE MAKEUP LIZ VAN DER MERWE/RED HOT OPS USING DOLCE & GABBANA MANICURE COURTESY OF POLISH MODELS ANOUSHKA/TOSIN/BOSS FASHION ASSISTANT SAHIL HARILAL FASHION INTERN ANGELIQUE CRINALL

From top (rings, from left): Juste un Clou ring with pavéset diamonds in rose gold, R181 000; Juste un Clou ring with diamonds in rose gold, R52 500; Juste un Clou ring with diamonds in yellow gold, R52 500; torque necklace, R1 300 000; Juste un Clou bracelet with diamonds in yellow gold, R164 000; Juste un Clou bracelet with diamonds in rose gold, R164 000, all Cartier; hat, R1 400, Crystal Birch; bodysuit, R1 785, Wolford

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THE

PHOTOGRAPHY CHANEL

feminine ETERNAL

WHEN IT WAS FIRST LAUNCHED IN 1921, CHANEL N°5 CHANGED THE FRAGRANCE WORLD FOREVER. THIS SUMMER, THE LEGENDARY GLASS BOTTLE IS MAKING HISTORY AGAIN — WITH A LIMITED-EDITION RED FLASK

legend

“Chanel N°5 — a woman’s fragrance that smells like a woman”

D

isruptor, influencer, visionary, maverick. These words are often heard today when new brands make their mark in the world of fashion and design.

But it is a little-known fact that Coco Chanel, the designer behind what is arguably the world’s most famous fragrance, embodied all these concepts long before anyone had even given them a name.

The story of her life as a fashion designer is already the stuff of legend, but the remarkable launch of Chanel N°5 almost 100 years ago is another fascinating tale of vision and daring that is perhaps not so well known.

It was during the summer of 1920 — when Chanel was on holiday with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia, a cousin of Tsar Nicholas II — that the story began. In Monte Carlo, she met up with some of her friends — including the painter Josep Maria Sert i Badia and his wife, pianist Misia Godebska — both thoroughly entrenched in the art world of the era.

Around this time, the idea of creating a Chanel fragrance was sparked. The very idea of a fashion designer creating a fragrance had never been attempted before, but for Chanel everything was starting to fall into place.

The grand duke introduced her to Ernest Beaux, former perfumer to the court of the tsar and the man who would go on to make N°5.

It was in his laboratory, amid flasks and distilling vessels filled with fragrances in the making, that Chanel became convinced that she

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originality of using a simple glass flask with a rectangular stopper, and the unique contents all meant that N°5 was soon recognised as one of the most iconic luxury creations of our time.

Chanel N°5 was also the first fragrance to demonstrate the power of a true influencer. In 1954, Marilyn Monroe, at the peak of her career, catapulted the name of the fragrance to fame when she spontaneously suggested that a few drops of Chanel N°5 was all she wore to bed.

This was the real deal as far as celebrity endorsements go!

Andy Warhol featured the glass bottle in nine multi-coloured silkscreen prints, and, anointed a 20th century icon, the bottle was added to the permanent collection of the New York Museum of Modern Art in 1959.

Fast-forward to 2018, and the house of Chanel is set to make waves again. For the first time in the history of the maison, the legendary clear-glass flask is donning a fiery cloak of red.

A limited edition N°5 EDT and EDP (100ml) in mass-dyed red glass, and 55 numbered red collector’s edition Baccarat Crystal flasks containing 900ml EDP will be released this summer. The contents of the bottles remain unchanged.

A reflection of Coco Chanel’s passionate soul, red conveys her unwavering love for her trade, the arts, and the men who marked her life. A colour that holds nothing back, it offers the promise of commitment and self-assertion and incarnates all the boldness, freedom, and strength of this woman who forged her own destiny.

To discover this unique limited edition of the iconic Chanel N°5 visit your Chanel beauty counter at select Woolworths beauty halls.

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COCO CHANEL IN TROUSERS: PHOTOGRAPHY ROGER SCHALL/COLLECTION SCHALL COCO CHANEL LEANING AGAINST THE MANTELPIECE: PHOTOGRAPHY FRANÇOIS KOLLAR/MINISTÈRE DE LA CULTURE — MEDIATHÉQUE DU PATRIMOINE, DIST RMN

wanted to create a scent with her own signature. Beaux shared with her the magical qualities of aldehydes that could take a fragrance from average to extraordinary, and she immediately commissioned him to create a fragrance like no other — with her name on it.

With its multiple and contradictory facets, the first Chanel fragrance was to reflect the designer’s maverick personality. It should be “a woman’s fragrance that smells like a woman”, was her brief.

Chanel wanted a fragrance that was both luxurious and infinitely seductive, she said. “I want to give women an artificial fragrance. I mean artificial because it’s something that has been made up. I want a fragrance that is a composition.”

This visionary brief resulted in the creation of Chanel N°5. It was the absolute opposite of the monofloral scents (gardenia, jasmine, rose) in fashion at the time, which were applied in excess at the beginning of the evening to last as long as possible, as the scent tended to fade quickly.

In Chanel N°5, Beaux created a stunning bouquet of fragrances, using no fewer than 80 ingredients — and, of course, adding that extra something by using huge proportions of aldehydes for the first time.

The reason for the name — N°5 — remains a mystery. Some believe it was the fifth of 10 samples that Beaux presented to Chanel. It also happened to be the designer’s lucky number, and since she was known to be extremely superstitious, the name N°5 would have been important to her. The simplicity of the name, the

MARILYN MONROE: PHOTOGRAPHY BOB BEERMAN ANDY WARHOL IMAGE OF CHANEL BOTTLE: PHOTOGRAPHY CHANEL ANDY WARHOL CHANEL N°5 PAINTING PHOTOGRAPHY R DOISNEAU/RAPHO

legend

“In Chanel N°5, Beaux created a stunning bouquet of fragrances, using no fewer than 80 ingredients”

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here are few places more enchanting for a woman than the sweet-smelling beauty hall of a department store.

It is a world of fantasy that Woolworths understands, with some of the globe’s greatest beauty brands now available in flagship stores around the country.

In addition to curating only the finest names in beauty for the discerning Woolworths customer, the Woolworths beauty halls offer a comprehensive experience that caters to all her needs.

Woolworths’ own private label, W.Beauty, features skincare, fragrance, and makeup — all endorsed by Beauty Without Cruelty — and is always on trend with the latest colours and treatments.

The Good Beauty Journey at Woolworths means that the beauty halls offer something for everyone: from ultra-luxurious brands, such as Chanel, to cult products that deliver amazing results.

The Woolworths beauty halls are being set up to offer every kind of pampering and grooming — from skin consultations and foundation matching to makeup services and treatment rooms — that shoppers desire.

With the Woolworths bath and body ranges already long-time favourites, the beauty team has sourced some of the best treatments from around the world to add to the pampering range.

And with nails and brows the number-one beauty treatment of the moment, Woolworths has engaged the finest Foxbox nail teams, as well as a brow-grooming service in certain stores.

With Woolworths doing the ground work and taking the anxiety out of finding products that work, the beauty-hall experience in everyone’s favourite lifestyle store promises to be unforgettable.

Woolworths Beauty is available instore, online, and via the Woolworths app. Simply scan the QR code and start shopping. woolworths.co.za

IN THE FINE TRADITION OF LUXURIOUS BEAUTY HALLS ALL AROUND THE WORLD, WOOLWORTHS IS IN THE PROCESS OF CURATING A SELECTION OF ONLY THE BEST BEAUTY BRANDS FOR ITS CUSTOMERS

CURATED BEAUTY T

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TANZANITE ROCKS! Found only at the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzanite is Africa’s rarest gem. A vibrant shade of blue is the pop of colour you need to celebrate all occasions.

Aster ring (left) and Iris ring (right)

Visit our flagship stores:

V&A Waterfront

Cavendish

Canal Walk (CPT)

|

Eastgate

Menlyn

Mall of Africa

Sandton (JHB)

Come in store to be inspired or explore the full catalogue & reserve online. www.americanswiss.co.za

|

Gateway

Westville (KZN)

PLATINUM 2 0 1 8

S T U D E N T S T H E

PLATAFRICA AWARDS

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2018

BLESSINGS OF

LOVE

IN AN ERA THAT IS CELEBRATING THE RISE OF WOMEN POWER, BLESSINGS OF LOVE WAS AN APT THEME FOR THE 19TH ANNUAL PLATAFRICA JEWELLERY-DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE COMPETITION

STUDENT WINNER Callen Miller, Durban University of Technology

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resented by the world’s leading producer of platinum group metals, Anglo American Platinum, and South African refiner Metal Concentrators in association with Platinum Guild International India, the prestigious PlatAfrica platinum-jewellery-design competition is open to student, apprentice, and professional jewellers in South Africa.

This year’s competition, created to unearth the country’s top jewellery-design talent, looked to celebrate the significant milestones in the lives of young women who are being raised as the empowered, successful future generation that will take women to a place of equality in society.

Designers were asked to emphasise the rarity and strength of both platinum and the wearer through modern but timeless design, showcasing no more than two or three simple elements of the highestquality production, through three broad design categories: Nature’s Spirit, Modern Feminine, and Cultural Confluence.

Student top 10 Above: Lené Swartz, Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT); right: Masibulele Mgoduka, CPUT; top from left: Sandile Didi, Mizane Jewellers; Bokang Naile, Pneuma Jewellers; Matete Seliane, The Platinum Incubator (TPI)

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Student Above from left: Lonwabo Majola, CPUT (2nd); Susanne Misslinger, Ruth Prowse School of Art (top 10); below from left: Zola Ntintili, Rare Earth Creations (3rd); Puleng Tsotetsi, Pneuma Jewellers (4th)

Professional Clockwise from above: Jefta Mtole, Altin Jewellers (2nd); Metaxia Segal, Uwe Koetter Jewellers (joint 4th); Aurélien Brandt, Ruth Prowse School of Art (top10); Esti McLachlan (top 10)

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P R O F E S S I O N A L S

PROFESSIONAL WINNER Nicki Böttcher, Nicki B Jewellery Creations

T H E

Professional Clockwise from top left: Liezl Botha, Altin Jewellers (joint 4th); Madlenkosi None, TPI (3rd); Esti McLachlan (top 10); Julian Roux, Pneuma Jewellers (joint 4th)

PLATAFRICA AWARDS

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PLATINUM advertorial

Rings with diamonds in platinum, from R29 800; earrings with diamonds and pearls in platinum, from R69 600, all Veronica Anderson Jewellery

THE MOST PRECIOUS

I

METAL

OF ALL

A metal of gleaming magic and glamour, platinum is fast becoming one of the most sought-after choices for those unforgettable jewellery moments t is a tradition as old as time — the celebration of a special occasion, anniversary, or milestone through the gift of jewellery. And of course it stands to reason that the jewellery itself should bear special significance and carry the weight of a special occasion.

GLAMOUR AND ALLURE

Such is the aura around platinum that its desirability for specialoccasion jewellery pieces is growing all around the world.

For engagements, weddings, anniversaries, and the marking of milestones, nothing says romance, glamour, and promise quite like platinum. The allure of platinum has a lot to do with the golden age of red-carpet glamour, when only the best would do. Some of the most famous pieces of jewellery have been set in platinum, the most durable precious metal of all. And, of course, no diamond or precious gem shines more brightly than in a platinum setting.

And as the world of design gains increasing prominence, the fact that platinum is the most malleable of the precious metals makes it popular among jewellers and customers wanting to explore intricate designs.

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STRENGTH AND PROMISE

On a practical level, the advantages of choosing platinum for a jewellery design are numerous: platinum is extremely durable and strong; it’s highly resistant to stress and withstands both extreme heat and extreme cold; it’s hypoallergenic, making it suitable for sensitive people to wear, and it seldom tarnishes.

Platinum jewellery will retain its good appearance and does not need to be routinely rhodium plated.

Of course a premium metal comes at a price. But a recent agreement between Metal Concentrators (MetCon) — platinum refiner and supplier to the jewellery industry — and Anglo American Platinum means South African jewellers now have access to a finance scheme that will enable them to offer their clients a platinum service.

MetCon is also on hand to supply expertise when it comes to working in platinum. And being a refiner, MetCon deals with the scraps and filings, eliminating the jeweller’s hassle around sweeps.

Neville Crosse, managing director of MetCon, says, “We are always open to discussing how we can assist South African jewellers to profitably manufacture and sell platinum products that offer significant benefits to their clients.”

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DATELINE

THE

luxury

JOHANNESBURG

REPORT

Luxury news and views from the style capitals of the world

THE VAULT SPECIALIST WATCH BOUTIQUE HAS ADDED TWO OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXCLUSIVE WATCH NAMES TO ITS LINE-UP

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he Vault, one of South Africa’s leading high-end watch retailers, this year added two of the world’s most desirable watch brands, Breitling and A Lange & Söhne, to its exclusive offering.

The standalone Breitling boutique in Sandton City is the only one on the African continent. And in The Vault on the high street in Johannesburg’s Melrose Arch, a store within a store was created for German-manufactured, Richemont-owned A Lange & Söhne watches. This is the only A Lange & Söhne boutique in South Africa.

There is a third Vault watch boutique at Menlyn Park Shopping Centre in Pretoria.

Other luxury watch brands represented by The Vault include Rolex, Roger Dubuis, Longines, Zenith, Rado, Tudor, Tag Heuer, Montblanc, HYT, Omega, and Hublot.

The Vault offers free watch evaluations and sources sought-after timepieces for its clients. vaultsa.co.za

DATELINE

JOHANNESBURG IN HER LATEST EXHIBITION OF HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY, VERONICA ANDERSON HIGHLIGHTS THE TONAL TREND IN FASHION

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eronica Anderson has picked up on this summer’s tonal fashion trend, presenting a handcrafted jewellery interpretation following the same theme for her regular summer exhibition called There’s Always One. Always at the forefront of contemporary jewellery trends, Anderson says the movement towards dressing in one colour from head to toe means that jewellery has to join the conversation.

“It’s been a wonderful creative challenge, working with our talented designers to create pieces where there was one design brief: keep the colours tonal,” she says.

The design opportunities are limitless and include combining different stones of the same colour or collecting masses of one stone for maximum effect, she says.

There’s Always One, an exhibition of contemporary handcrafted jewellery, will be available from the beginning of October.

Veronica Anderson Jewellery, Shop 7, The Firs, Oxford Road, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 011 268 2021/082 881 0359, veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za

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GRASSE

T H E

SUMMER

O F

LUXE

THIS SUMMER SEES THE LAUNCH OF A HOST OF LUXURIOUS NEW FRAGRANCES. WE UNPACK THE SCENTS OF THE SEASON

tex t NOKUBONGA THUSI photography MALCOLM DARE

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Issey Miyake L’eau Super Majeure d’Issey EDP, 100ml, R1 290; Chanel N°5 EDP, 100ml, R2 290; Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Rouge EDP, 90ml, R1 915; Coach Platinum EDP, 100ml, R1 435; Amouage Honour Woman EDP, 100ml, R4 835; Elie Saab Girl of Now Shine EDP, 90ml, R1 815; Bulgari Le Gemme Ashlemah EDP, 100ml, R4 530; Bulgari Le Gemme Calaluna EDP, 30ml, R2 270; Bulgari Le Gemme Noorah, EDP, 30ml, R2 270; Dolce & Gabbana The Only One EDP, 100ml, R2 035; Bulgari Goldea The Roman Night Absolute EDP, 75ml, R1 735; Dolce & Gabbana The One Mysterious Night Exclusive Edition EDP, 150ml, R2 240

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DATELINE

PARIS

THE ELEGANT MESSIKA STUDIO IN THE HEART OF PARIS IS AS EXQUISITE AS THE JEWELLERY PIECES THAT ARE CREATED THERE

he l’Atelier de Haute Joaillerie Messika represents a very modern interpretation of a classical tradition of fine jewellery making.

With décor touches by Valérie Messika herself, the studio carries the designer’s hallmark style of elegance and sophistication.

An accomplished businesswoman, Messika sees the atelier as a creative environment where ideas take shape — a special space where inspiration takes form.

She has added her personal touch, right down to the smallest detail, with sophisticated décor far removed from that of traditional ateliers. The grey benches pick up the colours of the busts on which the jewels sparkle; the bouquets of fresh roses are reminiscent of the Messika store on Rue Saint-Honoré. Truly feminine, this daring modern den reflects the image of the brand, known for its contemporary vision of jewellery. The Messika Atelier is a contemporary lesson in the creation of a brand that will last forever. picotandmoss.co.za

T W O R K I N G

T O G E T H E R TO BE THE

BEST

RECOGNISING MASTERS IN THEIR FIELD, THE TEAM AT BREITLING WATCHES HAS CREATED SQUADS OF GIFTED PEOPLE TO REPRESENT THE BRAND. FIRST UP: THE ACTORS

he imaginative squad concept involves creating squads whose members are all recognised masters in their respective professions.

The idea is rooted in the dynamic values of Breitling — action, purpose, and pioneering spirit — and focuses on the bond created between people brought together by a shared endeavour and common goal.

“We believe in the power of a team and the mutual identification of a common target, which ultimately leads to success,” says Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling. “We aim for authenticity, credibility, and honesty for our brand and our products, as well as in our interactions with our clients. The same applies for each of the squads. We are going to launch several of them, covering different areas of activity linked to our thematic worlds: air, sea, and land. Our squad members are absolute masters in their respective fields.”

The first squad to be announced was the Breitling Cinema Squad. Like a good film, Breitling watches tell stories that connect people to something larger than themselves. A great script can take its audience to any place on earth, or even beyond. And Breitling watches are made to perform brilliantly on land, in the air, or on and below the water’s surface. There is another clear parallel: movies are the stuff of dreams, showing us that anything is possible. The four outstanding actors who are the members of the Breitling Cinema Squad are Brad Pitt, Charlize Theron, Adam Driver, and Daniel Wu. The Breitling Cinema Squads bring the excitement and drama of the big screen to a dynamic, creative new partnership with Breitling.

sponsored

I

t’s no mean feat when one of the world’s pre-eminent wine journalists awards eight of your wines 90 points or more.

Such has been the extraordinary success of one of South Africa’s oldest wine estates this year. Tim Atkin awarded eight of Boschendal’s iconic wines an impressive 90 points and more in his 2018 South African Wines Report.

The Boschendal Elgin Chardonnay 2016 was the estate’s top scorer, receiving 95 points, adding to the many awards received by winemaker Lizelle Gerber’s vibrant and intricate creation. It was one of just 159 out of 1 980 wines to score 95 points or more.

Other Boschendal high-scorers include the Jean Le Long Prestige Cuvée 2008 (94 points), Boschendal Heritage Collection Black Angus 2015 (93 points), Boschendal Grande Cuvée Brut 2013 (92 points), Boschendal Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (92 points), Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2017 (91 points), Boschendal Elgin Pinot Noir 2016 (91 points), and the Boschendal Heritage Collection Grande Syrah 2015 (91 points).

Gerber, who makes the estate’s white wine and MCC, has been creating the multi-award-winning Boschendal Elgin Chardonnay since 2011. It is part of Boschendal’s popular Appellation Series and was hailed South Africa’s Top Chardonnay and the Best Elgin Chardonnay in the 2018 and 2017 International Wine Challenge (IWC). It was also awarded gold at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards.

The Boschendal Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cuvée Brut have also been selected for the 2018 Sommeliers Selection, the go-to list of South Africa’s best wines.

“There’s that special moment when all the hard work pays off,” says Gerber. “The IWC, Decanter Awards, and Syrah Du Monde play a significant role in benchmarking wines around the world, and it is a real honour to be recognised by all three and a testament to the team’s winemaking abilities and hard work. I’m especially happy with the Elgin Chardonnay being named SA’s Top Chardonnay for the second year in a row — it’s a huge success.”

But it is the Boschendal Heritage Collection that epitomises all that this estate stands for when it comes to premium winemaking. The Grande Syrah 2014 is all about style. With grapes handpicked from a vineyard on the south-facing slopes of the Helderberg Mountains, the wine was made with Rhône-style yeast and aged for 15 months. Only 10 barrels were produced, and each bottle of Grande Syrah 2014 is numbered.

While the Syrah emanates sophistication, the Black Angus 2015 epitomises the estate’s history. The Black Angus pays homage to the estate’s ethically reared cattle stud and has a 66% shiraz base, rounded off by petit verdot (12%), cabernet sauvignon (11%) and cabernet franc (11%).

Shirley van Wyk, Boschendal marketing manager, says the estate feels the responsibility to celebrate both its own rich history and the history of the region: “Boschendal has been a pioneer in South African winemaking for three centuries. We are proud of our roots as one of the country’s original estates, and we are honoured to have remained relevant in local and international wine circles to this day.”

T H E L U X U R Y OF BEING THE

BEST

BOSCHENDAL WINES HAVE THIS YEAR REACHED THE PINNACLE OF EXCELLENCE, WITH PRESTIGIOUS AWARDS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

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DATELINE

LONDON LAURENCE GRAFF, CHAIRMAN OF GRAFF, ON HIS PASSION FOR DIAMONDS, ART, AND HIS SOUTH AFRICAN WINE ESTATE

Which would you say is the most exciting diamond that you have bought? And why? I was delighted to acquire the 1 109ct Lesedi La Rona and am immensely excited about what the future holds for this famous stone. I have spent the past year overseeing its analysis and the cutting and polishing process, which, as you can imagine with a rough stone of this size, is extremely complex, risky work. I get the greatest joy from cutting an incredible diamond, and watching the transformation of the Lesedi La Rona has been thrilling.

Is there a diamond out there that you covet? Diamonds are an enduring passion of mine, and I love to acquire the very best.

You never know what the future holds — it’s impossible to predict what great discoveries are around the corner. I am privileged to have cut and polished many of the largest and most exceptional diamonds in the world. This makes my job intensely rewarding and incredibly exciting.

How would you describe the Graff signature? That is, how — at a glance — would someone know that a piece is from Graff? Balancing beauty and proportion, our classically inspired jewels are both elegant and timeless. The inspiration for our jewellery comes from the stones themselves. Every creation is designed to accentuate their unique personality and articulated to display exceptional fluidity. Our watch designs, also, are driven by the wonderful stones with which we work, from our unique, faceted Graff watch bezel, inspired by a round

materials, so that the properties blend seamlessly into the landscape.

The interiors are impeccably designed, and just recently I selected the artwork that will be displayed in each, which brought me much pleasure. They are private sanctuaries in which to relax.

Now onto your love of art… What are your thoughts on South African art? The Delaire Graff Estate is one of my favourite places in the world — it brings me much joy, and I love to visit as often as I can. It sparked my initial interest in African art, which has since become a great passion of mine. Many artworks by both established and emerging African artists are displayed throughout the estate, and some of my most recent acquisitions will be showcased in the new lodges and villa.

Is there a particular artist you are following and coveting at the

“I am a collector who loves discovering the rarest and the best, be it a work of art or a rare diamond” brilliant-cut diamond, to our magnificent jewellery watches.

What is influencing the way women are wearing diamonds right now, and what is the design direction at Graff at the moment? We have never been dictated to by trends — fabulous diamonds never go out of fashion. The Graff woman is not afraid to be daring, however, and our statement earrings are the perfect example of that. Designed to be worn on their own, they frame the face beautifully and have been very well received by our clients.

Please tell us a little more about the opening of the new villa and lodges at Delaire Graff Estate. In December we will be unveiling six luxury lodges and a breathtaking 1 000m2 villa, and I am proud to say that the new properties are absolutely spectacular. Carved into the hillside, they have incredible views over the Stellenbosch Valley.

We have incorporated touches of Cape Dutch architecture and local

moment? I don’t follow one artist in particular. I am a collector who loves discovering the rarest and the best, be it a work of art or a rare diamond.

Which art movement are you watching? My passion lies in modern art, in particular the most respected icons of the period. I own works by the top masters of contemporary art, but while I like to travel the world visiting auctions and art galleries, I never acquire a piece unless I truly love it. My connection with art is deeply personal and a great inspiration for our designs at Graff. I love to bring art to jewellery design, for example in the new Twombly-inspired jewellery collection. delaire.co.za; graffdiamonds.com

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AUSTRALIA SOUTH AFRICA’S BIGGEST SELLER OF DIAMONDS, AMERICAN SWISS, IS GOING TO LIVE, LOVE, AND CELEBRATE IN AUSTRALIA

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t’s one of South Africa’s proudest success stories: the tale of American Swiss Jewellers that started life as a single boutique in Cape Town in 1896 and is now the country’s most successful diamond retailer in terms of carats sold.

This year has seen American Swiss taking a giant leap to the next level, with the launch of the Masterpieces Collection of fine jewellery — firmly positioning the chain alongside some of the world’s leading jewellery retailers.

But there’s no stopping this team. By the end of the year, American Swiss would have gone one further by opening boutiques in Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane in Australia.

The exclusive stockist in South Africa of the unique Australian brand Moi Moi Supernova Moissanite, American Swiss will also be the only chain boutique in Australia to sell this remarkable new concept that has seen massive success in South Africa.

With a reputation for innovation and design, American Swiss intends to stand out in the Australian market, due to the fact that there are some very compelling design stories to be told: from the Love Diamonds Collection to the American Swiss Iconic Black Diamond, Precious Pink, Tanzanite, and Masterpieces collections, there is something for everyone in an American Swiss boutique. The brand is certain to wow the Australian public.

T H R E E G E N E R AT I O N S O F E X C E L L E N C E

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DATELINE

CAPE TOWN WITH THE LAUNCH OF ITS MASTERPIECES COLLECTION, AMERICAN SWISS HAS ENTERED THE WORLD OF FINE JEWELLERY MAKING

Georgia bangle with 3ct diamonds in 18kt white gold, R140 000, American Swiss

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MERVIS BROTHERS JEWELLERS Shop L55, Eastgate Shopping Centre, Bedfordview 011 616 7504 sales@mervisjewellers.co.za mervisjewellers.co.za

update DATELINE

WANTED: With which gem do you prefer to design?

HENRI VAN DEIJL: Diamonds. They’re beautiful and highly valued gems with extraordinary qualities. Diamonds provide an excellent opportunity to explain the difference between a well-cut stone with triple excellent-cut grades compared to a stone with very good or lower-cut grades. Reputable laboratory certificates provide a cutting report on individual diamonds — an excellent way to combat any misrepresentation. The cut grade of a stone can make a difference of 30% on the price, with no obvious difference to the naked eye unless pointed out by a trained jeweller.

W: Which is the most popular gem among your customers at the moment?

HVD: Diamonds. It’s by far the best-wearing stone because it’s hard and doesn’t scratch. The brilliance of a well-cut diamond is forever, and its beauty is timeless, representing both classical and modern values.

W: Which gem do you think is an undiscovered treasure?

HVD: Tsavorite. This rare and less well-known green garnet is a vibrant gemstone with a wide range of shades. It’s durable, bright, well-saturated, and it does not typically need any treatment to enhance its colour.

Tourmaline is another undiscovered treasure, owing to its wide variety of exciting colours and a price range to suit every individual.

W: Tell us about a remarkable gem you’ve worked with during the course of your career.

HVD: A padparadscha sapphire, with which we made a beautiful engagement ring. Padparadscha sapphires are highly treasured and extremely valuable. The name derives from a Sinhalese word for “aquatic lotus blossom”, and its beautiful salmon colour includes a range of pink to orange hues.

W: Is there a big move toward coloured gems?

HVD: They’ve become more popular because of their affordability and wide colour range. Rings continue to be the most popular item when using coloured gems. For a hardness of below eight on the Mohs scale, Van Deijl would, however, recommend designs for earrings and pendants.

MEET THE VAN DEIJL BROTHERS: GEMMOLOGIST HENRI & INVESTMENT-WATCH SPECIALIST LIEBRECHT

CAPE TOWN

WANTED: What’s the most exciting development in mechanical watches now?

LIEBRECHT VAN DEIJL: Mechanical are outgrowing quartz watches in the medium price range, owing to the increase of power reserve, efficiency, and accuracy. Mechanical timepieces represent great traditional values as they last for decades without ever becoming irrelevant.

W: Why are mechanical watches so sought after?

LVD: A mechanical timepiece embodies the art of a beautifully handcrafted jewel, exhibiting true craftsmanship and longevity.

W: Have you noticed an increase in mechanical watches for women?

LVD: Yes, luxury watch brands have increased their production for women’s watches, and new product lines focus on exclusively on women.

W: Are your women customers more interested in craftsmanship than before?

LVD: When it comes to buying an exceptional watch, there’s a general increase in understanding of the importance of craftsmanship. Women are as informed as men and are extending their interest to include jewellery watches where diamonds and other gems are used to enhance the watch design.

W: Which watch is going to be the most sought-after Christmas gift this year?

LVD: High-end luxury brands with beautifully designed models such as the Rolex Datejust and Omega chronographs are especially sought after. vandeijl.co.za

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NEW LOOK TANUR COLLECTION

he Tanur Collection boutique in the V&A Waterfront has been given a makeover, and the new experience is light and luxurious — with plenty of references to Africa’s natural heritage.

Tanur Collection offers a wide range of exclusive jewellery and international watch brands, a comprehensive selection of loose diamonds and tanzanites, and a collection

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of African pieces that will appeal to the international traveller.

Tanur Collection also stocks some of the world’s most exclusive watch brands and is the only stockist of Blancpain and Breguet watches in the Western Cape.

Tanur Collection, Shop No 147, Lower Level, Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town, 021 418 5524, tanur.co.za

advertorial

South African Inventions

Bronze Nelson Mandela coin

Birds and flowers of the Waterberg biosphere reserve

Bronze and silver OR Tambo coins

meaning A GIFT WITH

CHANGE IT UP THIS FESTIVE SEASON WITH THESE MEMORABLE AND COLLECTABLE GIFT IDEAS FROM THE SOUTH AFRICAN MINT

Launched in 2016, the South African’s Mint’s South African Inventions coin series celebrates amazing innovations to come out of our country. In the past, our achievements in the field of heart transplants and dolos ocean breakers have been celebrated.

This year sees the commemoration of another medical innovation by a South African, with sterling-silver crown and tickey collectable coins. The 2018 coins celebrate the Computed Tomography scan, or CT (CAT) scan, medical technology developed by South African-born Allan McLeod Cormack.

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samint.co.za

FOR THE HISTORY BOFF

2018 marks 100 years since the birth of Nelson Mandela, and to commemorate the life of our country’s most famous citizen, the Mint has introduced collectable Mandela coins in bronze, silver, gold, and a R5 circulation coin.

The full 2018 Mandela Centenary coin range comprises a 1 oz (24kt) gold R500 coin, a 1 oz sterling-silver R50 coin, and a bronze-alloy R50 coin.

FOR THE PALAEONTOLOGIST

FOR THE INNOVATOR

e all have them: those friends and family who are impossible to buy for when it comes to gifting time. Well, here’s something unique to the rescue — a collection of collectable coins from the South African Mint that are not only likely to be the most original gift under the tree but will also keep growing in value. Each collection explores a different aspect of South Africa’s heritage, so there’s sure to be something for everyone.

FOR THE PATRIOT FOR THE NATURE-LOVER

The birds and flowers of the Waterberg biosphere are preserved in this set of fullcolour silver, laser-printed coins.

The collection includes the following: a R10 1 oz sterling-silver coin featuring the yellow-throated sandgrouse, a R10 1 oz sterling-silver coin featuring the whitebacked night heron, a R5 1 oz sterlingsilver coin featuring the orange tritonia, and a R5 1 oz sterling-silver coin featuring the grass crinum.

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The Celebrating South Africa series — which was introduced by the Mint in 2017 to commemorate South Africa’s various symbols of freedom, democracy, and culture — was created in collaboration with contemporary illustrator and multidisciplinary graphic artist Sindiso Nyoni.

Nyoni designed the portraits of Nelson Mandela featured on the 2018 Mandela Centenary coins, as well as the portraits of OR Tambo featured on the 2017 OR Tambo Centenary coins.

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The Natura Palaeontology Collection

The Palaeontology Collection currently comes in 24kt gold, and a 1 oz silver coin will be introduced in December 2018. The collection brings to life the prehistoric creatures that roamed and soared freely in Southern Africa some 200 million years ago.

The gold coins in this series, named the Rise of the Dinosaurs, are available in 1 oz with a face value of R100, as well as in fractionals: 1/2 oz with a face value of R50, 1/4 oz with a face value of R20, 1/10 oz with a face value of R10, and 1/20 oz with a face value of R5.

All these coin collections are available from the South African Mint in Centurion, and Elegance Jewellers in Melrose Arch.

Plus, look out for weekend pop-up shops in malls across the country.

Silver Nelson Mandela Centenary coin

update DATELINE

GENEVA

THE NEW HYBRID MANUFACTURE BY FREDERIQUE CONSTANT COMBINES FINE MECHANICAL SWISS WATCHMAKING WITH SMARTWATCH FUNCTIONALITY

“We are the first to combine a manufacture mechanical calibre with smartwatch functionality”

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rederique Constant, the luxury watch brand founded in Geneva in 1988, has invented a new kind of watch.

By combining an in-house automatic movement with battery-powered smart functions, the maison has created a whole new category of timepiece.

The magic of the new Hybrid Manufacture by Frederique Constant is in the unexpected; at first glance, the watch looks like a very traditional accessory, using all the classic analogue displays for regular timekeeping functions. The smart digital features are on the dial, but they do not shout tech.

The Hybrid elements are where the watch gets interesting, with all these features controlled through an iPhone app. The smart features are what you would expect from a connected watch, including among others activity tracking, sleep tracking, and fitness coaching, but it’s in the looks department that the Hybrid Manufacture really wins. picotandmoss.co.za

PETER STAS, CO-FOUNDER, FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

DATELINE

LE LOCLE THE TISSOT T-TOUCH SOLAR EXPERT IS THE FIRST WATCH TO BE POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY

DATELINE

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS

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he first watch brand to create a touch-screen watch powered by solar energy, Swiss brand Tissot has confirmed its position as a leader in tactile watchmaking technology.

First launched in 1999, the Tissot T-Touch Solar Expert recharges when sunlight falls on its dial and offers essential functions for everyday use in a modern, stylish, and sporty timepiece with clean lines.

The Tissot T-Touch Solar Expert includes 25 features such as weather forecasting, an altimeter, a second time zone, and a compass to make it the perfect travel companion.

The green and blue models also feature touchscreens and scratch-resistant ceramic bezels with inscriptions in SuperLumiNova to help with night-time navigation. tissotwatches.com

THE TAG HEUER CONNECTED MODULAR IS NOW AVAILABLE IN A SMALLER 41MM VERSION

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he latest version of the Tag Heuer Connected Modular, smaller in diameter and featuring new colours, has been specially redesigned for the smallest of wrists.

Developed in collaboration with Intel and Google, the Tag Heuer Connected Modular 41 features a number of improvements made to the 45mm version: improved screen resolution and brightness, and increased storage capacity to 8GB, and increased RAM memory to 1GB. Seven standard models are available, and the strap and lugs can be customised. New strap colours have been added: pink, blue, and white leather. The connected module can also be replaced with a Calibre 5 three-hand mechanical module. The connected watch becomes an attractive mechanical watch in just a few clicks.

All the functionality of the Connected Modular 45 is still there; it’s water resistant to 50m with a GPS, and offers a contactless payment system via Android Pay, and numerous infinitely customisable dials. The Tag Heuer Connected 45 and 41 are compatible with Android 4.4 phones and iOS 9 or later versions. picotandmoss.co.za

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craftsmanship

DATELINE

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS THE WORLD OF HAUTE HOROLOGY IS STEEPED IN TRADITION AND PATIENCE. WATCHMAKER BASTIEN ZARZOSO TALKS DEBBIE HATHWAY THROUGH HIS CAREER AT TAG HEUER

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astien Zarzoso amused himself as a young boy hunting for whatever tiny components fell to the floor around his watchmaker father’s workbench.

By the time he was nine or 10 years old, he was changing batteries, replacing straps and setting the time on watches that came in for repairs. At age 15, when he moved on to repairing watches with his dad, he knew what he wanted to do when he grew up. “Watchmaking is a passion passed on from one generation to the next,” he says.

Zarzoso’s post-school application to study at Lycée Edgar Faure in Doubs near the Swiss border was successful, securing him one of 45 places from about 200 applications. “Edgar Faure is at the heart of the

Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the institute that ensures the accuracy and precision of Swiss wristwatches. He also took care of polishing.

“I then joined a small team of watchmakers specialising in the restoration of antique watches. I was no longer working on a modern movement fresh from the production line, with an abundance of supplies available. I was responsible for repairing an antique timepiece, without altering its nature, while ensuring the customer’s demands were met to the letter,” he says.

The requirement to learn the working methods used by previous generations of watchmakers gave him a better understanding of how each component was made and assembled, not only in the movement, but also in the case exterior. This, in turn, increased his awareness of the different products that they work on.

Realising that there were still gaps in his technical and theoretical knowledge, Zarzoso attended the École Technique Le Locle and qualified with a diploma in practical watchmaking after three years of intense after-hours study.

“There is a careful balance to be struck between the expertise of today’s watchmakers and those of the past” micromechanical industry, and the diploma course involves lots of watchmaking theory and practice, which I loved.”

Zarzoso recalls the day they had to unwind a spring to form different letters or shapes. “I can’t say I enjoyed this exercise. After four hours of trying, I resigned myself to failure. Today, my favourite task is reconditioning springs.”

He was awarded his diploma in 2009. He then worked at Johnson & Johnson for about three years before sending an unsolicited but successful application to Tag Heuer in 2012. “I really wanted a position in the movement-manufacture-assembly workshop to gain a foothold in the watchmaking industry and hone my skills,” he says.

His first task was assembling the chronograph section of the Calibre 1887. After a few months, he became a multi-purpose operator, which required knowledge and proficiency in all the operator stations along the chain. “To my delight, I was promoted to the after-sales department after 18 months. I was the youngest and least experienced person in the workshop,” Zarzoso says.

Initially, his role was to repair quartz watches, followed by mechanical and automatic models, and, later, watches certified by the Contrôle

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What he appreciates most about working for a major brand such as Tag Heuer is its heritage. “Tag Heuer has been the Swiss avant-garde since 1860, which means we need to innovate. Without innovation, nothing moves forward. Having said that, nothing moves forward without tradition. There is a careful balance to be struck between the expertise of today’s watchmakers and those of the past.”

Are modern watchmakers as skilled as those early pioneers? “The techniques, working methods, and watches have all changed. Now watchmakers need to specialise. A haute horology watchmaker will not develop the same skills as someone working in restoration or movement correction.”

Four years after joining the after-sales department, Zarzoso’s position goes beyond the workbench. “I’ve created a display for antique watches that showcases their components, and developed a structured database containing all the watchmakers’ empirical knowledge the whole team can use,” he says. Zarzoso has adopted the approach that ensures longevity in the industry: “Being a watchmaker requires patience, and the path ahead is long. I need to continue to learn and work hard to keep abreast of techniques and methods that are constantly changing.”

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for the boys

DIOR HOMME

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ARZ steel bracelet, R1 525, Arthur Kaplan

ARZ steel bracelet, R1 525, Arthur Kaplan

arm party

JOIN THE

GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

LOUIS VUITTON

GETTY IMAGES/PETER WHITE

ARTHUR KAPLAN JEWELLERS

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There’s something about a casual collection of bracelets or bangles alongside your luxury watch that simply confirms your cool.

If you’re sporting a corporate look by day, a glimpse of a leather bracelet is an unspoken message that you’re a fun and stylish guy too. Don’t force it, and never overdo it. If you haven’t done so yet — this is the summer to start your armcandy collection

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A FORCE OF

nature

L’EAU SUPER MAJEURE D’ISSEY FOR MEN EVOKES THE STRENGTH AND POWER OF WATER

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he power of water has always inspired the fragrances of Issey Miyake, and with the launch of L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey for men comes the ultimate expression of that primordial power.

Confident, vibrant, and super-strong, the new men’s fragrance by perfumers Aurélien Guichard and Fabrice Pellegrin

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for Issey Miyake is aromatic, vibrant, and smokey — with ingredients designed to bring on a rush of masculine energy.

As polished as sea glass, the Todd Bracher-designed bottle evokes the dark intensity of the mysterious deep.

Smooth, forceful, salty, and bold, L’Eau Super Majeure D’Issey is the ultimate super water.

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for the boys

OFF THE CUFF

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For the suits, a pair of designer cufflinks is a style staple — especially with the dated necktie fast becoming a non-essential

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1. Bracelet, R4 800, Montblanc. 2. Bracelet, R4 800, Montblanc.

3. ARZ Steel bracelet, R1 525, Arthur Kaplan. 4. Mighty bangle, R1 750, Calvin Klein. 5. Strong bangle, R1 750, Calvin Klein

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1. Cufflinks with 1.62ct diamonds and 3.46ct sapphires, price on request, Graff. 2. Cufflinks, R3 474, Montblanc. 3. Strong cufflinks, R1 600, Calvin Klein. 4. Cufflinks, R5 400, Montblanc. 5. Classic racing cufflinks in steel and black lacquer, R5 100, Chopard. 6. Cufflinks, R37 500, Montblanc.

7. L.U.C cufflinks in steel and palladium, R7 520, Chopard

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advertorial

THE SPIRIT

OF

luxury

INSPIRED BY THE OPEN ROAD, COACH PLATINUM IS THE LUXURIOUS NEW FRAGRANCE FOR MEN THIS SUMMER

“I WANTED TO CREATE A SCENT THAT CAPTURES T H E E L E G A N T WAY OF LIFE OF A MAN WHO LOVES TO ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK TO FEEL THE UNIQUE SENSATION OF COMING BACK TO TOWN” Bruno Jovanovic, perfumer, Coach Platinum

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very great American road trip should begin and end in New York City, the home of Coach — the original American house of leather and this season’s most luxurious men’s fragrance, Coach Platinum.

A combination of fresh, floral, and woody scents, Coach Platinum is warm, sensual, and elegant — embodying the adventurous side of the Coach man.

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Wrapped in mirrored metal, the dramatic bottle features Coach’s signature horse and carriage, and the turnlock-shaped spray cap is a nod to the closure that first appeared on Coach bags in 1954.

With a reputation built on quality and authentic craftsmanship, Coach defines a free-spirited, all-American attitude, and Coach Platinum is the modern interpretation of this effortless style.

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IN

their WORDS

To ensure the survival of high-end heritage watches and jewellery, more and more luxury brands are now targeting the millennial market.

Just how do they manage to apply their many years of tradition and craftsmanship to the digitally native youth? We picked the brains of seven of the industry’s masterminds t ext JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY & YVONNE SHAFF

WALTER VON KANEL

LONGINES

“At Longines, we have non-stop energy,” says CEO Walter von Kanel.

Offering a top-quality product in a more affordable price range, Longines is certainly a driver in the luxury market. The basic Longines collections have been doing exceptionally well in China, and the brand has attributed this success to young buyers.

Von Kanel says they may be young, but experience has shown that these consumers are interested in quality. “Longines is a luxury brand that has managed to keep its price lower than others in the high-end bracket, without compromising craftsmanship and good materials. What more could a young watch buyer want?” Von Kanel asks.

The CEO also boasts that Longines sells watches to men and women in equal numbers, meaning that they are one of the few watchmakers with a 50-50 market share in terms of gender. “We have a strong formula. We don’t try to be everything to everyone, but rather stick to what we do know we can do — and we will do it successfully.”

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CARLO GIORDANETTI

CALVIN KLEIN Twenty years on from Swatch and Calvin Klein joining forces to create the watch brand cK, Raf Simons was appointed creative director of the latter business. He’s presented his first collection in his new job and is slowly making his mark. With his arrival came a flurry of newness, from a redesigned logo to a renamed main collection and even a renewed vision of Americana.

But where does this influence leave cK? “The vision of the new creative team is to have an absolutely consolidated brand. So by definition, whichever product carries the brand Calvin Klein must belong to the same cultural and creative environment. If you look at the colours, you’ll see they correspond to the Calvin Klein runway collection,” Swatch Group’s creative director Carlo Giordanetti says.

The move towards blue and emerald stones, and leather cuffs and watchstraps is certainly indicative of this. And with Giordanetti tipping burgundy as the statement colour of the moment, he recommends slipping a cK watch around your wrist for a youthful addition to any outfit. “The cuff is a very nice way to carry the brand away from the elastic waistband of the underwear. It’s been a good transformation tool for us.”

Of course, this move towards a more playful Calvin Klein is aimed at capturing the coveted millennial audience. “The vision of the brand is to move towards a younger generation,” he says. “And with the younger kids, personality is big. Your products need to have personality.”

Part of that personality is a focus on happiness, and it’s clear from the smiling models and influencers that appear in Calvin Klein’s new campaigns. “Happiness today is a difficult term, unfortunately, but it’s about showing the energy — and the smiles in our ads have done this,” he says.

Another way to cater for youthful taste? Giordanetti says the brand is doing it with yellow-gold watches. “Especially younger women are coming back to watches, because we’re having a moment where everyone is talking about heritage. But they want purity in a watch: a sleek design. They look back and see that yellow gold was a big part of the classic collections, so I believe there’s a resurgence of yellow gold. I also don’t think that watches are coming in as functional pieces for the younger people, but rather we see that accessorising is key.”

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FRANCK JUHEL

MATTHIAS BRESCHAN

MONTBLANC

RADO

Having been around only since the 1950s, Rado is what you would consider a “young” watch brand. However, it has quickly established itself as one of the most successful in the Swatch Group, a trait Rado CEO Matthias Breschan attributes to its clever design focus.

“From the beginning, Rado didn’t try to compete with other established watch brands in its mechanics and complications,” he says. “Instead, Rado focused on the second element — the watch housing. It’s here that Rado became the leader in bringing in innovative materials and designs. This allowed us to differentiate ourselves. Rado introduced the first ceramic watch in 1986 — essentially the first scratch-resistant watch. This meant you could offer a gift that would be certain to keep its beauty.”

Over the past two years, we’ve seen more and more high-end brands turn to ceramic, which has worked in Rado’s favour. “Consumers now know — and covet — ceramic as a material. They know it’s scratch resistant, very light, and comfortable to wear, as well as hypo-allergenic.” He highlights the importance of highquality ceramic. “Because they’re extremely high in quality, our white ceramic pieces will stay white for up to 30 years.”

Rado is very aware of the spending power of the millennials and had to reconsider its brand messaging a couple of years back. “About seven or eight years ago, Rado was known to be shiny, black, and square. It was very strong from a branding perspective, as it was unique and recognisable, but it became a problem because it became a synonymous with an ‘elderly’ clientele,” Breschan explains. “Whenever we did something a little bit different, people said, ‘Oh no, this is not Rado anymore.’ We became aware that we need to appeal to the younger market to protect the growth of the brand.”

For this reason the brand has found power in high-level collaborations. Most recently, it has engaged the prowess of six renowned designers from around the globe — many of them fresh-faced — for its latest collection. Later this year, six women in design will be asked to do the same for a women’s range.

“We’re careful about whom we select,” reveals Breschan. “We went with designers who’ve never designed watches before and come from different industries. We chose them for their success in their own industries, because we want to use their specialities to innovate.”

These projects don’t always come to market, especially when technical solutions aren’t possible just yet, but Breschan reveals that this is a risk the brand is willing to take because, as he says: “A loss of innovation is ultimately the end of our brand.”

Montblanc is a pioneering brand in the luxury-writing-instrument world.

Writing is part of the brand’s DNA. But where does the digital revolution leave a brand that depends on the handwritten word? Montblanc recently introduced augmented paper — a notepad that digitalises your analogue notes. Franck Juhel, Montblanc president for Africa, India, and the Middle East, reveals it’s the brand’s most successful launch ever. “If a brand like Montblanc is able to marry its DNA with digital, you’ve crossed the divide,” he says.

The big question that every luxury brand is grappling with right now is what exactly this younger market wants in terms of luxury items. Juhel believes it’s quality. “Craftsmanship is important, as it shows authenticity. On the one hand, it’s a digital world, but craftsmanship brings everything back to reality.”

The brand has ensured high-quality craftsmanship in redesigning its boutiques, which had to happen because of the company’s successful expansion into leather goods, jewellery, and watches, Juhel says. “What we’re finding to be successful in our boutiques is to give each category its own space.

This allows each category to express itself.”

“We need to appeal to the younger market to protect the growth of the brand”

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Montblanc is also reaching out to millennials with its appointment of brand ambassadors from this age group. The brand has carefully selected people with significant social-media reach and influence, and Juhel says that these ambassadors’ values have to be aligned to those of Montblanc. “I think with AB de Villiers we’re very lucky because we are very much aligned. Our plan is to walk together and grow the Montblanc brand in South Africa. He’ll help us connect through his social-media network — which is quite impressive — and, once again, what is very important is that he’s so well known. But he’s recognised for his values outside the cricket field too. We look at journalists, the ambassadors, and the maison as a family. We all walk and work together to grow the luxury industry.”

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“In French we say, if you want to know where to go, you have to know where you come from” PIERRE RAINERO

CARTIER

CHRISTIAN SELMONI

VACHERON CONSTANTIN As the style and heritage director of Vacheron Constantin, Christian Selmoni explains that he plays a vital role in keeping this centuries-old brand relevant for the modern market. “Founded in 1755, we’re the oldest watchmaking company, which makes heritage one of the most important aspects of our brand. We have all the archives and files of watches, designs, and photographs from the beginning, which is a great resource for the design team to dive into when they are creating new collections,” be says.

Even when new pieces are being designed, Selmoni says, Vacheron Constantin as a brand takes longevity very seriously. “First of all, we have to look back at Vacheron Constantin history, and what we see is that we always create very high levels of quality, style, and craftsmanship. The classic and elegant designs really are the Vacheron Constantin signature.

It makes sense for us to continue on this path.”

This is exactly what the brand is doing with its Fiftysix Self-Winding collection, Selmoni says. “It’s a good example of how we work. It takes inspiration from a watch from the 1950s: a very early automatic wristwatch. We’ve developed a collection of six models, and we’re using steel this time. So not only is this a new collection, but it’s also entry level.

Normally for such an elegant classic collection, we’d use white gold, but the steel gives us an opportunity to reach a new price level.”

With the Fiftysix Self-Winding collection, Vacheron Constantin is hoping to appeal to a market that might not yet be familiar with the brand, and the younger buyer in particular. “We know millennials are interested in vintage-inspired collections,” Selmoni says. “We’re surrounded by digital technology, but I think vintage watches balance this, and that’s why they’re becoming more popular. It’s not only about watches. If you look at the resurgence of vinyl, for instance, I think it proves that people want to reconnect with visible craftsmanship.”

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Pierre Rainero, style and heritage director of Cartier, describes his main mission as balancing the heritage of the esteemed brand with an identity that makes it relevant today. “We have to understand that there is a link between the present and the future, and the knowledge and construction of the Cartier style in the past. In French we say, if you want to know where to go, you have to know where you come from,” Rainero says.

The essence of Cartier comes from its values. The first is the demand for excellence, where “good” is not enough — there’s always the ambition to go further in terms of craftsmanship and ideas. “We know that we play a role in the industry, where we need to push it further. Then we have the notion of an important distinctive style. Louis Cartier created totally new ambitions and languages. He created an instantly recognisable style,” Rainero says.

He explains that the Cartier archives provide inspiration for new collections, as well as relaunches, such as the iconic Cartier Santos, which was created by Louis Cartier in 1904 and then relaunched 100 years later in seven models to mark the centenary. “What we always ask, though, is whether it has relevance to the customer today. Relevance is an important aspect to consider. Another interesting part of our design is that at Cartier we work thinking first of the beauty of the design of an object,” Rainero says. “And then only do we consider the technical side.”

Ultimately, Rainero says he believes in the continuation of Cartier and its growth, because, as humans, we’re programmed to appreciate details and intricate items. “I think there’s an incredible appreciation for beautiful objects that come from the human hand. It’s a taste for the extraordinary that will never change.”

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a legacy TAKES TIME TO GROW

IT IS A LITTLE-KNOWN FACT THAT AMERICAN SWISS JEWELLERS STARTED LIFE AS A WATCH BUSINESS — AND CONTINUES TO PLAY A SIGNIFICANT ROLE AS ONE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S LEADING WATCH RETAILERS

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hen Isaiah Hirschsohn arrived on the shores of Cape Town in 1896, with two suitcases filled with watches from America and Switzerland, he could hardly have imagined that his standalone Cape Town store would over the years evolve into the largest watch and jewellery boutique chain in Southern Africa — and spread its wings to Australia.

After first selling his wares from door to door, he opened his first store at the foot of Table Mountain and called it the American Swiss Watch Company. Soon after that, the name changed to simply American Swiss, and the company started to trade in diamonds, gold, and other precious gems. The world of watches remained part of the American Swiss DNA, and in 1928, it created its first in-house watch brand, called Union Special, a unique piece of South Africa’s horological heritage.

In 1967 American Swiss became part of the Foschini Group, now known as TFG, and the business took a great leap forward. In fact, in 1969, American Swiss sold the first Omega Speedmaster in Africa — the watch worn by the astronauts who landed on the moon. American Swiss soon became the go-to destination for important watch purchases, and many South Africans still cherish those timepieces they bought from American Swiss boutiques.

American Swiss continued to innovate, and in the 1980s launched Tempo, now the largest watch brand across Africa. Tempo uses highquality Japanese movements, offers a three-year guarantee, and elegant, contemporary styling.

American Swiss is the South African bride’s first choice. No other jeweller can compete with the sheer carat volume of diamonds traded in the market. In celebration of American Swiss’ 120-year heritage in watches and diamonds, Tempo launched the Tempo Diamond collection in 2017.

This year, 122 years after American Swiss was founded, South Africa’s most trusted jeweller is set to open five stores in Australia in the cities of Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane. It is the beginning of the company’s expansion outside of Africa.

American Swiss invites South Africa and now Australia to live, love, and celebrate its fine jewellery and most-wanted watch brands.

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where to find it

STOCKISTS A Lange & Söhne The Vault Melrose Arch, 011 684 2023; Menlyn, 012 348 1649; Sandton, 011 883 2286; vaultsa.co.za American Swiss 021 938 1943/ 021 938 1918; americanswiss.co.za Anglo American Platinum 011 373 6111; angloamerican.com Arthur Kaplan 011 669 5600; arthurkaplan.co.za Audemars Piguet Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; architectsoftime.co.za Baume & Mercier 011 317 2600 Blancpain The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200

Chopard Chopard Boutique, 021 421 4296; Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119 architectsoftime.co.za

Crystal Birch 011 326 7767; therealcrystalbirch.com Dior Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; architectsoftime.co.za Ermenegildo Zegna 011 326 7767 Fabergé Vienna Jewellers, 012 460 7231; viennafinejewellers.com; Elegance Jewellers Melrose Arch, 011 684 1380; Sandton City, 011 784 0047; ejewels.co.za Frederique Constant Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za Gemfields Prins & Prins, 021 422 1090; prinsandprins.com

Breguet The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200

Graff 021 885 8160; delaire.co.za

Hermès Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za

Bulgari Boutique Sandton City 011 883 1325; picotandmoss.co.za Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Jeans Sandton City, 011 685 7057; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1185

Hublot Arthur Kaplan Sandton City, 011 783 4637; World’s Finest Watches Nelson Mandela Square, 011 784 0203 IWC 011 317 2600; iwc.com

Carol Bouwer carolbouwerbags.com Cartier 011 666 2800; cartier.com

V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za

Mervis Brothers Jewellers 011 616 7504; mervisjewellers.co.za

Seiko 012 997 3070; seikoboutique.co.za

Messika Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; architectsoftime.co.za

Shemer Jewellers 011 622 4735; shemer.co.za

Christoff 021 483 1765; christoff.co.za

Boschendal 021 870 4200; boschendal.com

Breitling 0861 001 884; breitling.com

Lorraine Efune 021 418 1870/ 011 783 7348; lorraineefune.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre 011 317 2600; jaeger-lecoultre.com

Metal Concentrators 021 510 0770; metcon.co.za Montblanc 011 666 2841/ 021 421 5015; montblanc.com

Murdocks 021 419 0302; murdocks.co.za

Longines The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200

Tag Heuer 011 669 0500/021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za Tanur Collection Tanur Collection V&A Waterfront, 021 418 5524; Watch Works V&A Waterfront, 021 418 4702; tanur.co.za

NWJ nwj.co.za Omega The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200

Tissot The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200 Tudor tudorwatch.com

Panerai 011 317 2600; panerai.com Parmigiani Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za Patek Philippe 011 784 2595; patek.com Richard Mille Boutique Haute Horlogerie V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; architectsoftime.co.za

Vacheron Constantin Elegance Jewellers Melrose Arch, 011 684 1380; Sandton City, 011 784 0047 Van Deijl Tyger Valley, 021 914 2192; Somerset Mall, 021 852 7017; vandeijl.co.za Veronica Anderson Jewellery 011 268 2021; veronicaandersonjewellery.co.za

Rado The Swatch Group South Africa, 011 911 1200

Victorinox Swiss Army Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za

Roger Dubuis The Vault Melrose Arch, 011 684 2023; Menlyn, 012 348 1649; Sandton, 011 883 2286; vaultsa.co.za

Wolford 011 325 6457

Rolex rolex.com Charles Greig 0800 333 888/ 011 325 4477/021 418 4515; charlesgreig.co.za

South African Mint 012 677 2777; samint.co.za

Raymond Weil Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119;

Disclaimer: Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press.

Wanted cannot guarantee that prices will not change, or that items will be in stock at the time of publication.

Zenith Shemer Jewellers, 011 622 4735; shemer.co.za; Boutique Haute Horlogerie Hyde Park, 011 325 4119; V&A Waterfront, 021 418 1889; picotandmoss.co.za

competition

ROMANCING THE

STONE Jewellery is a symbol of everlasting love and the ultimate expression of desire — it’s a gift that forms a lasting impression. Your jewellery purchase, no matter how big or small, is a precious one, and deserves the attention and time to ensure that you’re truly getting a gift for life. That’s why it’s important that you consult a reputable jeweller, a member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa, to make sure that you get the best advice possible on your purchase.

Our members abide by a code of ethics and conduct. Buy with confidence from an accredited Jewellery Council member.

WIN

A HALO RING WITH 2.47CT OVAL MORGANITE AND 36 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS TOTALLING 0.51CT IN 18KT ROSE GOLD,

VALUED AT

R40 000

WITH COMPLIMENTS FROM THE JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA

For a list of jewellers in your area, visit jewellery.org.za, email admin@jewellery.org.za, or call 011 484 5528.

TO ENTER: SMS the keywords “Jewellery Council”, together with your answer to the question, your full name, and email address to 33279 (SMS costs R1.50) QUESTION: What’s the cover line on this year’s edition of Wanted Watches, Jewellery and Luxury?

CLOSING DATE: 31 January 2019 TERMS & CONDITIONS: SMS charged at R1.50. Errors billed. The competition starts at 8am on 27 October 2018 and ends at 8am on 31 January 2019. The prize must be taken up (or rejected) as awarded and cannot be transferred to any other person, sold, or converted to cash. The competition is open to all residents of South Africa over 18 years of age, except employees of the Tiso Blackstar Group or The Jewellery Council of South Africa. Your contact details will be kept private and not used for any marketing purposes.

wanted

objectof desire p h o t o g ra p h y JUD D VAN R EN S B UR G st y l i n g N OKUB ON GA THUS I

Colour has always been the style signature of Italian luxury jewellery maison Bulgari. The Festa Collection is the ultimate expression of this style, showcasing the finest gems in the world in an array of colourful splendour and designs inspired

by Bulgari’s luxurious heritage

High-jewellery necklace with 166.37ct coloured stones — purple amethyst, orange citrine, violet-blue tanzanite, light-blue topaz, reddish-pink rubellite, blue topaz, yellow-green peridot, and pink tourmaline — and 9.8ct round brilliant-cut, pavé-set diamonds in rose gold, price on request, Bulgari Festa Collection

W J L ED IT IO N 2 0 1 8 / 1 9

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THE AMERICAN SWISS ICONIC

BLACK DIAMOND The diamond bangle is a must-have piece for any collector’s jewellery wardrobe.

Showcase personal style with captivating black diamonds set in 18ct white, yellow or rose gold. Beautiful on their own but even better together.

The Mia Bangle

Visit our flagship stores:

V&A Waterfront

Cavendish

Canal Walk (CPT)

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Eastgate

Menlyn

Mall of Africa

Sandton (JHB)

Come in store to be inspired or explore the full catalogue & reserve online. www.americanswiss.co.za

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Gateway

Westville (KZN)

CLASSIQUE 7787

© Churchill Heritage Limited

HISTORY IS STILL BEING WRITTEN ...

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W I N STO N C H U R C H I L L ( 1874 - 1 965 ) I C O N I C B R E G U E T C L I E N T – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

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