PURE Fashion by ClearVision Marketing

RE PU fashion

ISSUE Nº 1 2014 Spain 3.50€

RIHANNA Fashion Icon

GIORGIO ARMANI Pure Genius

SUMMER TRENDS Pure Runway

DAVID SIMS

Pure Photography

2 Pure Fashion www.dior.com

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Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton Stores www.louisvuitton.com

Photography by David Sims for Vogue March 2014

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PURE THOUGHTS! ISSUE Nº 1 2014 Spain 3.50€

RIHANNA Fashion Icon

GIORGIO ARMANI Pure Genius

She’s a bit like marmite you either love her or hate her but one things for sure Rhianna knows how to rock the latest fashion styles. Never one to be seen in the same outfit twice Rihanna took it to the next level when she appeared at the CDFA Awards in New York City wearing a sheer nude dress that left nothing to the imaginations but was detailed beautifully with Swarovski crystals. To mark her 26th birthday she recently appeared on the cover of VOGUE USA within this issue we take a look at some of the images as photographed by David Simms. The modelling world is a fickle one - One month your everyone’s favorite clothes horse the next your out of fashion but SUPERMODELS they are a different breed even now after their catwalk careers have faded they are still in demand, within this edition we take a look at the era of the super model and question has it ended?

SUMMER TRENDS Pure Runway

DAVID SIMS

Pure Photography

We also take a sneek peak at the Autumn 2014 / 2015 hair trends and bio the world leading designers. This magazine is packed full of your essential fashion must haves so what ever you do don’t put it down!! We hope you enjoy reading our first issue of Pure Fashion Yours Stan

PUBLISHER: SIMPLY MEDIA GROUP S.L. MANAGING DIRECTOR & EDITOR: Stan Israel stan.israel@simplymedia-group.com ASSISTANT EDITOR & PRODUCTION MANAGER Lisa Brown administration@simplymedia-group.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR, DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Sherelisa Bossi sherelisa.production@simplymedia-group.com GRAPHIC DESIGN: Jackie McAngus jackie.production@simplymedia-group.com ADMINISTRATION ASSISTANT: Alissa Heilbron info@simplymedia-group.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Dawn Gudging, Stephanie McGraw, Lily Templeton, Plum Sykes FINANCIAL DEPARTMENT Rachael Jones accounts@simplymedia-group.com SALES: Nic Day nic.sales@simplymedia-group.com SIMPLY MEDIA GROUP S.L Tel: +34 951 136 751 - 951 127 200 Deposito Legal Nº MA 1252-2014 The views and opinions expressed by contributors of Pure Fasion may not represent the views and opinions of the publishers. Pure Fashion takes no responsibility for cl a i m s m ad e i n ad ve r tis n g o r ad ve r to r i a ls i n t h is m ag a z i n e. No part of Pure Fashion may be reproduced or copied in anyway without prior witten consent of Sunsearch Magazine.

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RE PUCONTENTS 14

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118

126

154

166

174

14 Fearture

Giorgio Armani - Pure Genius

22 Fearture

Monolo Blanhnik - Pure Monolo - Signature Style

110 118

Bobbi Brown - Uber basic Collection

126

How important are Make-up Brushes Pure Hair Trends Autumn2014

60 Fearture

Pure Wedding Summer weddings - Vera Wang

Trendspotting - All about the Lash

Pure Photography David Sims - Photography in art form

Rihanna Effect - Fashion Icon

28 Pure Beauty

Fearture

Pure Profile G.I.A.N. - New Designers

154

Pure Top Model Bio Miranda Kerr

The Supermodel - The end of an Era?

166

Fearture

66 Pure Runway Summer 2014

174

Fearture

Donna Karan, Gucci, Versace, Burberry Prorsum,

Hermes - The iconic Birkin and Kelly bag Karl Lagerfeld - Pure Karlism

Rachel Zoe, Marc by Marc Jacobs Pure Fashion

Charms Extraordinaire Hirondelles This piece portrays a pair of brisk and graceful swallows, together symbolizing the coming of spring. In Europe, they are thought to bring good luck to the house where they build their nest. Van Cleef & Arpels here revisits two favorite themes: pairs of birds – offering a tender symbol of love – and the swallows which have inspired its creations from the 1920s onwards. A cloudshaped lucky charm spins airily about the dial. The Charms Extraordinaire Hirondelles watch is notable for its delicate gradation of colors. The two birds stand out against a highly nuanced background of blue, pink and mauve, produced by the technique of miniature painting on mother-of-pearl. The precious stones – diamonds and pink and violet sapphires – set into the swallow’s breast, the branch and the bezel add sparkle to this symphony of flowers and clouds.

Charms Extraordinaire Hirondelles timepiece - small size, pink gold, pink and purple sapphires paved case, miniature painting on mother-of-pearl dial, diamonds and purple sapphires, violet alligator strap, quartz movement. Limited edition – 22 pieces.

Eternal summer style

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www.tommyhilfiger.com

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Pure Genius 14

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“The difference between style and fashion is quality”.

esigner Giorgio Armani was born on July 11, 1934, in Piacenza, Italy. With his body-conscious yet understated clothing, Giorgio Armani has become one of the most popular names in fashion. He first launched his business empire in the mid1970s, and it has grown substantially over the years. The Armani brand now includes makeup, housewares, books and hotels. The son of a shipping manager, Armani grew up in a small town outside of Milan. It was a difficult time in Italian history. Giorgio and his two siblings—older brother Sergio and younger sister Rosanna—experienced the hardships of World War II firsthand. Some of his friends were killed during Allied bombings. “We were poor and life was tough,” he explained in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar. “The cinema in Milan was a refuge—a palace of dreams—and the movie stars seemed so glamorous. I fell in love with the idealized beauty of Hollywood stars.”

At an early age, Armani developed an interest in anatomy, making “dolls out of mud with a coffee bean hidden inside. His fascination with the human form led to two years of medical study at the University of Piacenza. Taking a break from school, Armani had to complete his required military service. It was at this time he became interested in fashion “I was doing my military service and I had 20 days off on vacation in Milan, through a friend, I got a job at a department store. I started assisting the photographer, designing the windows and things” he explained to Time magazine.

Leonardo DiCaprio for Wolf on Wall street Lady Gaga

After completing his military service, Armani dropped out of university and went to work at La Rinascente, a famous Milan department store. He then joined the staff of Nino Cerruti as a designer. With the encouragement of his friend Sergio Galeotti, Armani started to do freelance design work for other companies as well. Armani and Galeotti became business partners, founding Giorgio Armani S.p.A. in July 1975. The company’s first collection a men’s clothing line was debuted that same year, a women’s collection was launched the following year, which received a warm reception. At the time his clothes were revolutionary as they introduced a more natural fit and used a subtle color palette. “My vision was clear: I believed in getting rid of the artifice of clothing. I believed in neutral colors,”

Alicia Keys

Expanding an Empire With full ownership of the company ( Galeotti left Armani his 50 percent interest in the firm) Armani immediately set out to expand the Emporio Armani line. A variety of new enterprises proliferated in the last half of the 1980s. The first Armani Junior store opened in Milan in 1986. Giorgio Armani Japan, a joint venture with Japanese Itochu Corporation, was created in 1987. The first Emporio Armani Express restaurant opened in London along with the Doney bistro in Florence in 1989. On another front, Emporio Armani magazine begun publishing in January of the same year. By the end of the 1990s, Armani had over 2,000 stores worldwide and annual sales of roughly $2 billion. His company continued to add to its product offerings, expanding into the home goods market and book publishing. In 2005, Armani debuted his first haute couture line. He launched this high-end venture because he liked the challenge. “Think how liberating it is for a designer to make one dress, perfectly, to satisfy only one customer,” he told In Style magazine.

High Demand for Armani While his designs grew in popularity across Europe, Armani didn’t initially make a big splash in America it wasn’t until his clothes were worn by actor Richard Gere in the film American Gigolo (1980), and the hit television series Miami Vice (1984-89), starring Don Johnson that the public began to take notice. The 1980’s was an era of the power suit polarized by the film Wall Street starring Michael Douglas and wearing an Armani suit became a symbol of success for many business professionals. With demand high, Armani and Galeotti were able to grow the business, opening up an Armani store in Milan. Armani, however, suffered a great personal and professional loss in 1985 when he lost longtime friend and business partner Galeotti to AIDS. Galeotti, was the one who had handled the day-to-day management and while some thought that the business might suffer after Galeotti’s death, Armani showed the world that he was just as talented as an executive as he was as a designer.

Cate Blanchett. Face of ARMANI SI The fragrance was inspired by a woman’s strength and inner beauty, the name being the Italian word, Sì, which means ‘yes’. “Sì is my tribute to modern femininity, an irresistible combination of grace, strength and independence of spirit,” said Armani. To represent the fragrance, Armani has chosen, one of the most beautiful and glamorous women: Cate Blanchett. According to Armani, she captures everything he admires women. “Cate Blanchett epitomises the woman for whom I design,” “Her graceful figure shows off my clothes as they are meant to be seen and worn. With her growing maturity, she has come to embody the ideal Armani woman: serene, confident, elegant, and at ease with herself and with the world.” Pure Fashion

Hotels, Restaurants and Cafes Hotels have become Armaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest venture. In 2010, he opened his first hotel in Dubai, and another one inMilan. It seems that Armani has nearly tapped into every available design opportunity at this point in his career.

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With more than three decades in the business, Armani has enjoyed a longevity as a designer experienced by few others. Some compare him to such fashion greats as Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. In his 70s, Armani stands as one of fashion’s most distinguished leaders. He seems “almost presidential— wise, serene and comfortable in his role now as the reigning eminence of Milan fashion,” wrote a journalist for The New York Times Giorgio Armani”s philosophy of fashion and style, together with his entrepreneurial ability, has been central to the success of Giorgio Armani S.p.A. He oversees both the company”s strategic direction and all aspects of design and creativity. Perhaps best known for revolutionising fashion with his unstructured jacket in the Eighties, after thirty years of running his own label, he now presides over a stable of collections, including his signature Giorgio Armani line, Giorgio Armani Prive, Armani Collezioni, Emporio Armani, AJ | Armani Jeans, A/X Armani Exchange, Armani Teen, Armani Junior, Armani Baby, and Armani Casa home interiors, offering a choice of lifestyles to the marketplace. Today, the company”s product range includes women”s and men”s clothing, shoes and bags, watches, eyewear, jewellery, fragrances and cosmetics, home furnishings, restaurants and hotels.

JUNIOR

The

RIHANNA Effect

s anyone having more fun with fashion right now than Rihanna? We don’t think so. You never know what she will be wearing next which is why we never get tired of watching. But Ri-Ri does have favourites. There’s the Stella McCartney edgy-glam staples - lace print pyjamas, a marbled tuxedo dress and a black tailored jumpsuit - as well as her Manolo Blahnik double-strap sandals. And take a closer look at all that daywear: the accessory that’s ever-present is a black leather Celine Nano tote. Yep, even fashion icons have a formula. Rihanna first came into our lives back in 2005 as a fresh-faced 17-year-old after signing a contract with Def Jam Recordings after auditioning for Jay-Z. She was all about the tight-fitting tops and flesh-flashing frocks, but then came mega hit ‘Umbrella’ in 2007 and her career, as well as her sartorial stamp, sky rocketed.

Photos by David Sims

Fast forward to 2012 and Rihanna has cemented her style status by teaming up with River Island to design her own highstreet collection. And who could forget when she caused a stir backstage at the Victoria’s Secret show after performing on the catwalk in a suitably saucy ensemble? This was followed by the revelation that the singer had shot a risque shoot with none other than ultimate girl crush, Kate Moss. Fashion-wise, Rihanna’s a hit-maker for the masses and the designers. The Rihanna Effect was all over the spring collections. Peter Dundas for Pucci showed leather boxer shorts worn with jeweled jackets, and adorned his red-carpet frocks with beaded black harnesses. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing,

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who has Rihanna starring in his spring ad campaign, showed what amounted to an entire Rihanna wardrobe on his runway: baseball jackets worn with sheer tops and skinny houndstooth pants; eighties-inspired denim minidresses cinched at the waist. Tom Ford’s bejeweled teeny-tiny dresses and thigh-high gladiator sandals said Rihanna loud and clear. Here’s what those designers have to say about her. “There is no one else that excites me more,” says Alexander Wang, sipping an iced coffee. “It’s raw, it’s smart, it’s everything pop culture needs to move forward.” Mr. Ford declares from his London studio, “She can throw on combinations you can’t imagine other people could possibly wear, and l ook great. In the fashion world she has inspired a very, very loose mix of random items.” Peter Dundas, on a train ride between Pucci offices in Milan and Florence, calls her “a very talented dresser, in the way that Kate Moss is. She’s an amplified version of what a lot of girls want to look like, but she’s always a step ahead of the game.” “My e-mail to her asking her to do the campaign said ‘Balmainriri,’ ” says Olivier Rousteing on the line from Paris (a riff on Badgalriri, Rihanna’s Instagram account, which has eleven million followers; her Twitter account has 34 million). Olivier tells me Rihanna is his muse. “My goal is, I love ’er!” he enthuses in accented English. “I love my brand! I love my clothes! And I want them everywhere! And Rihanna is everywhere! We both love social media! We love to text!!! She is the new Wonder Woman!!!”

The fulltime singer part time model has graced not one but three covers of Vogue Magazine this year alone! She has also been featured in two of Vogue Brasilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issue for May 2014 and British Vogue as well. Fans can not seem to get enough of her provocative yet sophisticated sense of style. Although the fabulous sensation no longer has an active Instagram account, photos of Rihanna in this hot ensemble flooded the timelines.

Photos by David Sims, Annie leibovitz, www.ihiphopmusic.com_Rihanna-Vogue

Rihanna is definitely setting the standard for fashion. It is something new and well appreciated. Designers alike embellish their ambitions through the pop star and watch their visions come to life. Rihanna alone is a revolution. No matter what she does, it is something new and fun

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Photos by David Sims

Rihanna received the Fashion Icon Award 2014 CFDA The 26-year-old singer did not disappoint with her look as she stepped out in a see-through, custom Adam Selman fishnet gown, gloves and head wrap. Not only was the look risqué and absolutely breathtaking in photos, it was hand crafted with over 216,000 Swarovski crystals. To add a little more bling to her look, the Bajan beauty wore a Jacob & Co. ring. Not that we needed anymore convincing that Rih Rih was indeed a fashion icon, but this was certainly convincing. As she accepted the prestigious fashion award, Rihanna shared, “As long as I can remember, fashion has been my defense mechanism. As a child I remember thinking, ‘she can beat me, but she CANNOT beat my outfit.’” She also stated, “Fashion should never be frustrating, it should be fun.” True indeed

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LASH OUT Trend Spotting: All About the Lash We’ve noticed that for the fall 2014 season, there’s been a shift in makeup trends. For the past few seasons, designers put just about every spotlight on lips — with every kind of texture from glitter to matte — the upcoming trends are all about the eyes. Makeup artists have been creating all kinds of new looks just south of the eyebrows, experimenting with color, shapes and textures. One more thing that happened to catch our eye, though, was the particular attention paid to the eyelashes. From piling on extensions to clumping lashes together, take a peek at the looks we’ve been spotting.

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Photo: www.professionallash.net

Clumps: This certainly isn’t the first time we’ve seen clumps on the runway. Legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath created clumpy lashes for Gucci in 2011 (pairing them with a bold burgundy lip), but now that we’re seeing them pop up again at the Aquilano Rimondi and Prada shows, we’re wondering if this is going to become a trend, at least in the fashion world if not encouraging real girls to wear their mascara this way.

Photo: www.onsecroyaitchic.combert-stern_twiggy, www. Kim-Kardashian-Wedding,

Piled On Falsies: Falsies may have been around forever, but makeup artists are coming up with new and interesting ways to use them. At Gucci, a row of false lashes was applied to both the upper and lower lash lines, making a very bold, ’60s-inspired look. At Versace, lashes were piled on to the top lash for a doeeyed effect.

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False Lashes Plus Color:

Photo: www.lashulashes.wordpress.com, www. bow-fake-eyelashes

Colored eye makeup was all over the runways at New York Fashion Week with designers like Altuzarra and Creatures of the Wind featuring bright eyes, and the trend followed suit. Eyes crazy with colored feather lashes and 3D appliqués. This look may be over the top, but we’re hoping to see everyone infuse a bit more of color into their eyes, finishing the look with bold eyelashes.

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www.dolcegabbana.com

Photos: www. www.missfashionnews.com , www. beautystalkers.wordpress.com,

Katie Holmes for bobbi brown

Bobbi Brown Uber Basic collection: your makeup routine simplified!

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Uber basic Color Story

Sparkle Eye Shadow

We all know by now that true elegance lies in keeping it simple. Think Audrey Hepburn! Overdoing it is just like adding clutter to your home. Simplify, simplify, simplify! Bobbi Brown knows this and has repeatedly emphasized it in her books.

Is featherweight and instantly lights up eyes. It combines shimmering pearls and glitter in a translucent base. It glides on smoothly and clings to lids making it long-lasting. The four new sheer shades: Bone, Cement, Taupe and Black Chocolate illuminate eyes subtly.

Inspired by her 7th book: Pretty Powerful Beauty Stories, Bobbi Brown is introducing her new collection: Uber basic, for every womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin tone and age. The collection is organized in four-color stories, each featuring Eye Shadow, Sparkle Eye Shadow, Blush, Rich Lip Color and High Shimmer Lip Gloss. Additionally, every story explains the sequence of application of the collection through her 10 step process, depending on the color story of your choice! Pretty neat!

Eye Shadow Sophisticated collection of subtle to dramatic shades. Silky, mate formula glides on and is natural looking. Shades: Bone, Cement, Taupe and Black Chocolate

Rich Lip Color Lightweight and emollient lip color. The base is colorless and translucent, featuring a special gel system allowing for intense color release and true natural color. The texture is smooth and buttery soft. It is long-lasting. Available in many flattering shades.

High Shimmer Lip Gloss This gloss features moisturizing emollients, Vitamins E and C which condition and offer anti-oxidant protection. It is a clear base for incredible shimmer, shine and color. Wear it at night or when you want to add a bit of sparkle!

Blush A Pop of natural cheek blush! Its mate finish makes it long-lasting. The formula is silky, allowing for flawless and even application. Shades: Pretty Pink (New) Pink Rose (New) Nude Pink, Plum.

Moisturize, perfect and protect - instantly and over time. Now it’s easier than ever to get great skin with Bobbi Brown’s new BB Cream SPF 35. Inspired by a skincare/makeup hybrid that’s a cult favorite in Asia, this formula combines moisturizer, treatment, Broad Spectrum SPF and a lightweight foundation in one. Plus, it’s now available in nine skin tone correct shades carefully formulated by Bobbi herself. Consider it your skin’s new best friend.

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www.bobbibrown.com

www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com

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The importance of a good makeup brush

ometimes the importance of a good quality makeup brush is underestimated. Brushes are one of the key elements to create a flawless face and even out makeup, and like an artist or a painter brushes can become the most important tool to create master pieces. Most of the brushes come with the makeup items you buy, but you can also purchase them as separate items. I highly recommend you to buy makeup brushes and never use the ones that come with the products you have because the quality is not as good as the one in a professional makeup brush. The price of a makeup brush varies with its size, quality and brand name, If you can afford a professional brad like Mac, do it, you are not going to regret it, but if your pocket is kind of empty this days you can also find good quality brushes for a very low price.

Both hair type and cut will determine the quality and softness of the brush. But you always have to remember that First cut hairs are the highest quality and are cruelty-free. The tips of the hairs on virgin cut bristles are soft and pointed, while second or blunt cut hairs are just flat across. Think about the difference about the hair on your face compared to the hair on your legs as the stubble grows back after shaving, and you’ll get the idea. So now that you know more about the type of hairs keep in mind the next time you go shopping to buy a new brush that no matter the price range, your brushes have to be handmade and with first cut hairs.

Hair types of Brushes Basically a brush can be divided into three parts: Hair, ferrule (metal tube designed to hold the glued hair as well as providing a connection for the handle ad the hair) and handle, and there are two types of brushes you can use for your makeup application.

Natural Hair Natural hair brushes are the best type of brushes because they can apply makeup more effectively, trapping and holding the powders the best. When pressure is applied from the brush against your skin, they release these powders very easily and efficaciously. Natural haired brushes will get softer with each use over time, and are the most appropriate for powder brushes, eye shadows, and blush brushes.

Synthetic hair Synthetic hair (nylon or taklon) are not absorbent and doesn’t trap powders, making it more suitable for concealer brushes, eyeliners brushes, or liquid foundations. Synthetic brushes will get stiffer with each use.

Animal hairs used in brushes. Kolinsky red sable: Kolinsky is a small animal found in the coldest regions of Russia and China, and is a mink species. Kolinsky brushes are the finest, softest, and most expensive brushes. Artists tent to use them the most because of their very superior strength, slenderness, and resiliency when compared with other sable brushes. Badger Hair.:Badger brushes can come in different forms, making for differing quality and uses. Badger “tapers” are conical in shape, and have more elasticity, making them springier and softer on your face. A high quality badger hair brush will have a variegated appearance: light-dark-light. Badger gray hairs are less tapered, less elastic, less soft, and less expensive. These brushes are really more suitable as barber’s brushes. Squirrel Hair.:Squirrel hair is extremely soft and gentle on the skin and are perfect for people with sensitivities. Squirrel haired brushes are the most popular with makeup artists. Only long squirrel hair is considered to be valuable, as the hair ends in a very fine point. These must be handmade to preserve the tips.

Pony Hair.:Pony hair brushes are less expensive than squirrel hair but they still provide good quality. This brushes are soft, but have less pointy/fine tips than the kolinsky sable or squirrel brushes. Goat Hair: Goat haired brushes are the most commonly used hair type in a mid-range price point, and have the widest range of quality. The softest goat hair is the first cut, where the tips are still intact and soft. Sometimes the first cut goat hair may be referred to as a “squirrel substitute”. Pahmi hair: Pahmi makeup brushes are made from a weasel-like animal but smaller and thinner. The hair is lightly stiffer and the tip is short. This kind of hair is often used as a filler hence is mixed with other hair types such as weasel or pony hair. Pahmu hair is relatively inexpensive and when dyed can resemble sable or red sable. Some high end brands do carry pahmi in their cosmetis.

How to choose? Sometimes it is so hard to tell whether a makeup brush is worth its price tag or whether the price tag just reflects a fancy brand name. Here is what to do when searching for a new brush and minimize the mistakes when choosing high price and even drugstore quality brushes: When playing with the display brushes try to give them a little tug to make sure that there is no shedding happening, if there is shedding, step away from the brushes immediately. Depending on the functionality of the brush (eyeliner, brow brush, blush brush), test the texture and see if it feels too soft or too scratchy. Pure Fashion

Hair Trends

RE PU

AUT UMN 2014

he right decision of hair color that will be fitting with your appearance and the shade of your skin and eyes is the thing that will make you a genuine symbol.

For this there are different color tones from which you can settle on your decision. To get an immaculate hair color you ought to request proficient suggestions. They run from rich blondes to wild reds and you must verify that they suit with your skin tone and identity. Tan is the shade that suits most skin tones. You can bring out your skin by picking tan hair, yet just on the off chance that you pick the right shade for which a proficient touch is required. You must keep in your brain that each color makes particular sentiments and you must settle on the shade that suits with your identity.

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Hair colour trends 2014

Case in point on the off chance that you have capable identity a savage red shade might be an impeccable choice for you. In the event that you need to add hotness to your look cool blonde hair color will be the alternative that you require. Thus, you have to choose the colors that suit both your skin tone and identity and with a right shade decision you will make heads turn.

Photos: www.Blonde Hair With Lowlights, www.fabulous-hairstyles.com, www.jdhlifestyle.co.uk, www. best-hairstyles-for-thin-wavy-hair

Tan is the shade that suits most skin tones. You can bring out your skin by picking tan hair, yet just on the off chance that you pick the right shade for which a proficient touch is required. You must keep in your brain that each color makes particular sentiments and you must settle on the shade that suits with your identity.

Some Hairspiration: Blonde Hair With Lowlights

Are you a blonde looking for a change, but not a big change ?

ry some lowlighting to make your ultra blonde tones really pop! Lowlighting is a great way to add depth and dimension to any blonde shade. Plus, you can give your hair a gentle break from all that high-lift action and revitalize your stressed hair. Have some fun and try some creative color blocking and placement to maximize your hairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s potential. Take your blonde to the next level with pastel hues or fiery copper tones for a stellar look thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guaranteed to help you shine!

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Photos:www. shutterstock.com, www.1080phdwallpaperhq.blogspot.com, www.hairfinder.com, www. goldwellcolour.com

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COLLECTION

PRIVﾃ右 by COLOR RICHE

Made-to-measure nude couture

PARiS Pure Fashion

BALAYAGE EFFECT?

irst aflutter in Vogue forums in 2005, balayage is the most popular hair colouring request in salons today. The go-to for modern, chic hair, balayage creates depth and dimension, and leaves you with a sunkissed finish. Colour expert Rosie Hardy of Sydney salon Colour Lounge to find out everything you need to know about this popular technique.

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What is balayage? Balayage is a French colouring technique that was developed in the 1970s. It’s a freehand technique where the colour is applied by hand rather than using the traditional foiling or cap highlighting techniques. Balayage can be used in even the shortest pixie crop however the best results is in hair below the shoulders.

The appeal You can achieve so many different effects from soft, natural highlights to something strong and punky. The fact it’s so low maintenance is such a drawcard for women too. People want to look fashionable and feel good about their appearance but in this day and age we don’t all have the time to be in the salon every few weeks for a touch up.

How it’s done The process varies depending on the length of the hair and the desired result. You can expect to have individual strands coloured with a brush and a backing board. Some colourists like to separate their sections with cotton wool or foil, others tease the hair in sections first then freehand colour the ends. I find that all my balayage clients are going for different looks and need to maintain it at different rates. You will need to have a minimum of three appointments to really build up the colour initially. These appointments are spaced six weeks apart. From there you could go up to four months without having more balayage. You would just need to come in for a toner and a treatment to freshen up the colour in between appointments. Is it for me? Balayage is best done on natural hair, but never fear, most of the work I do to create a balayage look is initially done with foils until the hair is ready to have only balayage. There are many different techniques that people use to create this look. If you’re seeing a colour specialist they should always be able to come up with a technique to achieve the look you desire that best suits your hair type and colour history.

Photos: www. color-formula1.com, www.artwallpapers.com, www.womeninfashion.net, www. hair-color-trends.com

It’s also a very economical way to colour your hair as you never have a solid demarcation line or regrowth, so if you can’t afford to get it done for another month it won’t look atrocious. However, if your balayage isn’t done correctly you can end up with excessive overlapping that can cause damage.

Top maintenance tips Balayage will dry your hair out no more than classic foiling as long as you have a trained professional applying your colour. As with foils you should always use salon professional shampoos and conditioners as well as have regular treatments. No matter what the technique, your colour will always look its best if your hair is in good condition.

Does balayage have an expiry date? The technique has been around for so long and will remain an integral part of the way we colour in the salon for as long as I can foresee. However, the trend at the moment with the heavy graduation from dark to light is constantly changing. It started out about five years ago being very subtle with people like Gisele Bundchen being a favourite. A more natural, sun-kissed effect was desired then. In the last few years we have seen much stronger effects being worn, for example [stylist] Pip Edwards, who has really taken it to the next level. This winter we have seen the same techniques used but with a warmer, deeper feel. Lots of celebrities have their balayage finished with copper or red glosses and this is now being called the new ombre look.

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www.loreal.com

LIVE AND LET DYE

While many people enjoy to change up their look with colored hair, the fashion community is seeing more and more locks ditching the typical blonde, red and brown dye hues for technicolor pastel colors. The results are a mix of magical My Little Pony-inspired hues that whimsically range from bubblegum pink to creamsicle orange. Colored hair the shade of pastel Crayons is a creative way to change up oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look and make a bold hair statement.

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While many might think choosing a pastel hue would be too outrageous, pastel hair dyes actually have a softer and lighter look than most would expect. Especially with colors like purple and turquoise, pastel hair dyes typically leave a gradient effect look that even works well in the popular ombre-style. From draping blue haired editorials to sublime citrus editorials, these pastel-colored hair looks are eccentrically unusual.

Photos: www.pinterest.com, RĂŠcemment-mis-Ă -jour

KĂ&#x2030;RASTASE PA R I S

Introducing

Couture Styling

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Is this the end of

the Supermodel era ? Gorgeous, glossy, famous (and charging thousands of dollars an hour just to show up); welcome to the world of the supermodel. A world of luminaries, idols, and superstars. Who could possible forget the1980s? An era of lace, brogues, and Madonna, where glamour was the name of the game and fabulously beautiful women gained phenomenal power and recognition for their looks. Over the years countless famous models have tried to lay claim to the crown of the original supermodel (most notably diva Janice Dickinson), but it was Lisa Fonssagrives who pre-dated all of them. She was a highly sought-after face in the industry from the 1930s-1950s and, during this period, she appeared on the cover of Vogue over 200 times. Not long after Fonssagrive’s debut on the international scene, models steadily became part of the pop culture of the day, with the stick-thin frames of Twiggy and Gia dominating the 1960s and 1970s; every woman wanted to be them and every man wanted to be with them. In the late 1970s, sportier women gained more appeal, as the look shifted its focus away from the emaciated androgynous frame to the Sports Illustrated-magazine generation. The 1980s ushered in a 60

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new decade of beauties with healthy physiques, introducing us to Christie Brinkley, Elle Macpherson, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Heidi Klum. These models became so wellknown that companies were willing to base their entire advertising campaigns around them, as they sealed multi-milliondollar deals with the likes of Revlon. It was a time of natural beauty – Cindy Crawford with her trademark mole and Lauren Hutton with a noticeable gap between her teeth. The biggest designers clawed to get these beauties in their runway shows and, by the late 1980s, the word “Supermodel” became clearly cemented into popular culture as women of various ethnicities were making astronomical sums of money. As models began to embrace old-style glamour, they began to replace film stars as symbols of luxury and wealth, some even topping Forbes-magazine lists. The power had shifted in the fashion realm. They were no longer living, breathing mannequins parading down the runways of fashion week – they were multi-tiered brands, some even more famous than the designers themselves. No longer anonymous clothes hangers; they became brand ambassadors, turning

their careers into multi-million-dollar enterprises, they appeared on talk shows, were cited in gossip columns, partied at stylish nightspots, landed movie roles, enthused franchises, and dated or married film stars. Fame empowered them to take charge of their careers, to promote themselves, and to demand elevated fees. When Linda Evangelista mentioned to Vogue magazine that, “We don’t wake up for less than USD10,000 a day,” she may have been jesting at their exorbitant fees, but her remark became the most renowned quote in modelling history. This was a defining moment for models, fashion, and popular culture; a time when the combined power, beauty, and influence of five women created such an impression on the world that the January 1990 British Vogue cover presented them as the stars of the era. The now legendary cover created such a stir that pop star George Michael cast the same five models in his music video for his international hit song, “Freedom! ‘90”. Who were they? Why none other than Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Tatjana Patitz.

So what caused the “End Of An Era?” it is noted that the iconic Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, Anna Wintour, demonstrated her fearlessness for change when she, in the late 1990s and early 2000s, decisively called an end to the supermodel epoch; showcasing a preference for celebrities rather than models on the covers of the publication. When the world’s most-celebrated and recognized fashion magazine stopped featuring models, a paradigm shift began. The new millennium hit and the tide began to turn against supermodels; one raison d’être being the change in fashion trends, a shift from glamour to grunge and street style. As clothes became less flashy, designers turned to models who were less attractive so as to not overpower the clothing. The opportunities for super-stardom were waning in the modelling world, with models like Heidi Klum and Tyra Banks signing onto reality television shows like Project Runway and America’s Next Top Model, respectively, as a way to remain relevant while also establishing themselves as media moguls. The Millennium’s Unconventional Beauties The late 1990s-2000s have not been without their stars – both Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen were instantly recognizable enough to be considered supermodels. Bündchen epitomises the ultimate Sports Illustrated beauty and despite her tainted personal life, Moss is widely considered a true fashion icon. Just one photograph of her leaving a store wearing, for instance, ballet flats, and shops will sell out of them by the next day. Strangely enough, according to Claudia Schiffer, only Gisele Bündchen qualifies as a supermodel in today’s fashion scene.

In 1990, supermodel Linda Evangelista uttered what has become the most famous quote in modeling history:

“

We don’t wake up for less than $10,000 a day.

Since 2005, Bündchen has been the highest-paid model and star of a plethora of fashion giants’ campaigns. From sex symbol to modern mogul to working mom, these models embody the persona of the modern woman and are not afraid to take time off for themselves. The fashion industry is an industry set on manufacturing perfection: the perfect outfit, the perfect runway show, the perfect model, the perfect body, the perfect look. It is an industry beset with highs and lows, and is ever-changing. Teeming with a slew of fresh-faced wannabes, each one knows that their

window of opportunity to capitalize on their fame is rather small indeed; when their 15 minutes is up, they’ll find themselves short of attention (and cash). In a world of perfection, in a somewhat anomalous move, the fashion industry’s current penchant has been – what most people would dub – quirky and peculiar beauties; women who don’t fit the typical, conventional beauty mould. From gaunt, skeletal frames like Miranda Kerr, the gap-toothed Lara Stone, and the androgynous look of Tilda Swinton… the list goes on and on. Their shelf-life is far shorter and many get into the industry based on their famous parents. The most prominent of the silver-spoon brood being London’s latest “It Girl” – Daisy Lowe. Born into a real-life rock-androll soap opera, Lowe has made her mark as 2012’s hottest model. This atypical runway model comes from remarkably good stock, daughter to English rockerturned-fashion-designer Pearl Lowe and rock sensation Gavin Rossdale, not to mention step-daughter of Supergrass drummer Danny Goffey; it’s no surprise she’s secured her place in rock-and-roll royalty. However, her rise to fame has not been without its critics, with fellow model Sasha Volkova recently suggesting that Lowe is “not all that and overweight,” adding that, if Lowe was not the daughter of a well-known couple, she would be asked to go on a diet.

Daisy Lowe

“I don’t know what it is with London,” she relayed, “But the fashion world here is always in love with famous offspring, aren’t they?” Though she may have been “born” into her role, Lowe has already graced the catwalk for Chanel – handpicked by Karl Lagerfeld, no less – and stepped into Kate Moss’s stockings in a campaign for luxury-lingerie brand Agent Provocateur. With her doll-like face, unkempt hair, and curvy body, she strikes a distinctive balance between an edgy, catwalk-friendly look and a more commercial appeal that could see her do very well if truth be told. And despite the glamour of it all, Lowe appears to have her heart set on a quiet country life.

speak about models with wonderment and awe as they did before. Magazine articles speak of them with somewhat denigrating affection, using terms like “genetic anomalies” and “exquisite freaks” to describe their allure. This is the generation of models who flit in and out of the industry before we can identify with them – they are replaceable & superfluous.

So what, then, is this latent homemaker doing parading down the catwalks of Paris and New York? “I want to have money so I can spend it having children,” she says plainly. “I want to have three or four and be a really good mother and make sure they have a really brilliant life with parents who are not struggling.” These days, the fashion industry doesn’t

And although the era of the supermodels has passed, the value and impact it had on the careers of many models, as well as on the fashion industry as a whole, will not soon be forgotten. With the rise in popularity of wholesome beauties like Kate Upton, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Candice Swanepoel, perhaps the time of the supermodel will rise again.

So what does the future hold? Who knows - but if history repeats itself, perhaps Victoria’s Secret will usher in a new era of natural beauties to replace the pale waifs, just as Sports Illustrated did in the 1970s.

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The World’s Top Earning Models

Kate Moss

Adriana Lima

Carolyn Murphy

The superwaif continued her comeback from last year’s cocaine scandal: She’s the new face of Stella McCartney and Italian sportswear company Belstaff. She also has a clothing line for British retailer Topshop (carried in the U.S. at Barneys New York). Moss has also managed to hang onto modeling gigs with Rimmel, Burberry and Dior.

The Victoria’s Secret model is probably the most famous Brazilian babe since Gisele Bundchen. She’s also the face of Maybelline and New York Designer Donna Karan.

This native Floridian, is ubiquitous. As the main face of Estée Lauder.

$9 million

$6 million

$5 million

She peers down at beauty counters all over the world. She can also be seen in campaigns for Jantzen swimwear, Missoni, Versace, Anne Klein and Tiffany and Co.

1 Gisele Bundchen $33 million

The highest-paid model in the world when she split with longtime client Victoria’s Secret, shed no tears for this Brazilian bombshell: still commands more money and more contracts than any other model on the planet, gracing ads for Apple, Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli. Her line of sandals, Ipanema by Gisele, is expanding into the U.S. and Europe. Tom Brady.

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Heidi Klum

Alessandra Ambrosio

Natalia Vodianova

Model and mother of three (hubby was singer Seal) and still helms the hit Bravo reality show Project Runway.

This olive-skinned beauty, confidently stakes her turf among the Victoria’s Secret Brazilian trinity. She also models for Armani Exchange and Next U.K.

The Russia-born Vodianova, has been a Calvin Klein muse for longer than any other model, including Kate Moss. She also poses for David Yurman jewelry, Vodianova, active in speaking out against eating disorders within the industry, just gave birth to her third child with husband the Honorable Justin Portman, a British real estate heir.

$8 million

She also hosted Germany’s version of America’s Next Top Model. In her “spare” time, she designs and markets a line of clothing and jewelry.

$6 million

$4.5 million

Karolina Kurkova

Gemma Ward

Hilary Rhoda

Doutzen Kroes

The Czech model reigns next to Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio as one of the highest-ranking angels in the Victoria’s Secret roster. At 16, Kurkova appeared on the February 2001 cover of American Vogue, making her one of the youngest models ever to do so.

The Australian model doesn’t yet have an American multi year cosmetic contract, but give her time. She models for Valentino, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Karl Lagerfeld, Swarovski and Louis Vuitton. Her Kewpie-doll look inspired a new rage in the industry and makes her especially popular in Japan, where she’s the face of the enormous Kose cosmetics and skincare line.

Rhoda is being hailed as the new face of fashion. With her heavy eyebrows (a la Brooke Shields) and “heavy” (for the modeling industry) athletic body, she’s a throwback to the days of the supermodel. After becoming a favorite in the pages ofVogue and modeling for Donna Karan, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, she bagged a prized Estée Lauder contract.

The Dutch model, rapidly rose through the pages of Vogue, where she’s been featured in three vogues in a row .

$3.5 million

$2 million

$3 million

$1.5 million

She’s also bagged contracts with Calvin Klein’s Eternity fragrance and L’Oreal.

Daria Werbowy

Liya Kebede

Shalom Harlow

Jessica Stam

Werbowy’s name may not be familiar, but unless you’ve been living underground, you’ve seen this young Canadian, who is the face of Lancome. She also models for Louis Vuitton, Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Chanel, Valentino, H&M, Missoni, Salvadore Ferragamo and David Yurman.

As the first black model in Estée Lauder’s history, the Ethiopian beauty is hailed as a groundbreaker. She also models for H&M, the Gap, Anne Taylor, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga campaigns.

Harlow is a legendary veteran of the modeling world; she is making a comeback with new contracts with Chanel and Tiffany & Co.

Stam, was discovered by photographer Steven Meisel. the Canadian was featured on the cover of Vogue as one of the hottest new faces in fashion. You may not know her name, but her face should be familiar: She’s modeled for DKNY, Dior, Lanvin and Bulgari.

$3.5 million

$2.5 million

$2 million

$1.5 million

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RE PU R u n w a y

SUM MER 2014

The journey of Donna Karan’s Summer 14 started with a scarf – one that eluded her – and spun out into a collection that melded the journeying influences of different cultures into the seamless portrait of a feminine journeywoman. The variegated nuances of blue gave a grounded feeling to his, refreshingly broken by the occasional crisp white palate cleanser. Within those shades, Karan evoked tribalism through her prints, geometric abstractions that ran along hems boldly or subtly crept over fabric for all-overs. The color palette slid into a tan and ochre range, and with it, echoed the crinkled textures of the set. It was quintessentially Donna Karan, from the draping to the asymmetrical wraps. Fabric crinkled roughly on a jacket, and the Stephen Jones hats added a dose of drama to simple oversize shirt and skirt combinations. Chunky accessories – large leather necklaces, perforated leather totes and chunky bandolier belts. Rather than invoking the India she travelled to in search of the perfect artisanal hand, it put us on the trail of New Mexico vistas and imagery, as seen through an urban mind’s eye. Human intervention seemed pivotal here, in the minute variations that underpinned each element, from the casual tucking of a top, to the lacing up and down a denimhued pencil skirt, opening its range from demure to jaw-dropping. Karan’s journey ended with long, off-the-shoulder dresses that stuck close to the body with warm sultriness but did not carry the same emphatic charm as earlier pieces. As Donna Karan walked out to meet her public, a pretty scarf hung off her shoulder. It’s when you stop looking that things come to you, but sometimes, it’s better to make your own.

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PureDONNAKARAN.com Fashion 69

hinking about Erté’s Eastern influences triggered a revival of harem pants, caftans, and relaxed louche crossover jackets, and a silhouette with an emphasis on the hip. Not that there was any heavily worked historicism about it. A theme of ribbons ran through the sequence, too, tethering provocative tabard tunic dresses to give a flash of flesh as the girls walked past in their multistrapped ribbon-lashed heels. In the mix, she also channeled a Gucci version of the Issey Miyake–like vertical pleating, which is obsessing designers of Giannini’s generation this season. A plissé terra-cotta halter, bound with leather at the neck, is certain to surface as an It dress of the season.

SUMMER 2014

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FROM CO - AXIAL TO MASTER CO - AXIAL In 1999 we set out to revolutionize the art of mechanical watchmaking through the industrialization of the first practical watch escapement in 250 years. In 2008 we introduced the silicon balance spring in our exclusive OMEGA Co-Axial calibre. And today, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve pushed the boundaries once again with the new Master Co-Axial calibre, combining Co-Axial performance and reliability with resistance to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.

GUIDED BY OUR PIONEERING SPIRIT, DRIVEN BY OUR COMMITMENT TO INNOVATION

Versace Summer 2014 “I’M liberating the Versace woman,” exclaimed Donatella Versace. “Usually we give them clothes that are very tight to the body but this time they are much more languid - they caress the body.” Inspired by “the street which is the new catwalk,” she did, in fact, let the Versace girl breathe a little. Not only that, she made a play for ordinary fabrics and gave them Versace swagger. Full skirts of woven raffia bounced around beneath linen and denim mix jackets, while silk T-shirts were emblazoned with the brand name as would befit a rock band, and boasted chainmail sleeves. “I think at the moment it’s all about easy things to wear; women love to wear jeans and a T-shirt so I want to give these ordinary things the status of luxury,” went on Donatella. “The shapes are pretty simple but the pieces are as precious as they can be.” She claimed there was more romance in this collection. It being styled up to hit the catwalk with leather mega belts, fierce platform strapped sandals and shiny chains holding the famous Medusa head to each model’s chest. Silk floral slip dresses and sheer blouses revealed a softer side to Versace, but it was heavily disguised by tiny hotpants of embossed floral leather, ruched chiffon dresses that bandaged the breath out of models again, spray-on floral chiffon short shorts and heavy leather jackets stapled together with bold silver nuggets. The palette was pastel soft – pale blue leather jeans had sheer side panels with floral leather appliqué – and then the eveningwear meant the floral motifs reappeared in glittering embellishment on nude chiffon body stockings. More languid once the lights went down, perhaps, but this was Versace in full tough girl mode just the way we like her.

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LADY

c/ Ribera - Local 15 - B, Casa F 29660 Puerto BanĂşs - Marbella Tel.: 952 906 525 - Fax: 952 907 607 76

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PRORSUM SUMMER 2014

urberry was everything soft, from the long cashmere cardigans with cheeky lace pencil skirts to the cosy round shouldered coats in gentle shades of pink and pistachio, the sweaters that sometimes tied with a bow at the nape of the neck, the macdresses made from dusty blue or toffee suede, the skirts that draped and the dresses that knotted, or the simple, roomy pale grey cashmere coat worn with nothing but pencil thin rubber-strapped heels. Even the new Petal bags were soft â&#x20AC;&#x201C; rolled in the hand like a newspaper, they came in lavender, mint or vibrant jewel tones when offsetting a neutral coat.

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he celebrity stylist-cumdesigner, has a longstanding affinity for the glamour of the seventies, but this time around she went for a swinging sixties vibe, which tapped into one of Fall’s major trends. “I’ve said it before: I don’t think that my love for French ingenues of that era is ever going to change. It’s how you express that and make it new and modern,” Zoe said. Zoe managed to incorporate plenty of her signature tailoring throughout the collection. Among the highlights were a pair of pleated, wide-legged leather pants. Mini dresses. Long and very short skirts. Pants long and also above ankle. Short jackets, Midriff-cropped tops.

RACHEL

ZOE 82

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RACHEL

ZOE

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MILANO LONDON MADRID PARIS

NEW YORK SINCE 1837

TIFFANY.COM

Marc by Marc Jacobs 88

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Since its launch in 2001, Marc by Marc Jacobs has served as a uniform for a certain set of offbeat-butfashion-aware trendsters attracted to its retro nods and friendlier pricing. But the once-fun formula has gotten ‘a little stale,’ by the admission of no less knowledgeable a figure than Robert Duffy, Jacobs’ business partner. In May, he and Jacobs announced that British designers Katie Hillier and Luella Jacobs would join the brand as a new creative team, showing their first collection in the autumn winter 2014 season—which makes Tuesday’s show at New York Fashion Week something of a victory lap for Jacobs. So what did he give us? Uniforms—starting with his recent favourite, pyjama dressing. It carried into SS14 in rumpled, slept-in-looking satin and linen suits and linked-up, pinwheel-printed tops and bottoms. Styling every look with low-key trainers added to the relaxed mood. A train of other ‘moments’ referred to other uniforms and other Marc by Marc collections. There was an ‘80s interlude, with leaf-green sequinned dresses and starsplashed separates; a ‘Go Team!’ section packed with varsity jackets, vintage basketball-uniform jumpsuits and a couple of fetching head-cheerleader dresses, all in rumpled red and peach satin; and a few pinstriped pieces with ‘I just quit my day job to play music’ nonchalance. It was all over the place, but appealingly so—a pleasing survey of why we keep coming back to Marc by Marc, just in time for the designer to make way for his new creative team.

Muelle Benabola, 3, Puerto Banus, Malaga, Espa単a, 29660 T. +34 952 811 872 www.tods.com

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orking alone without assistants or apprentices, MANOLO BLAHNIK (1942-) is solely responsible for the design of every one of the thousands of shoes that bear his name. He has dominated shoe design since setting up in business in London in the early 1970s.

And The City, took a wrong turn after lunch in SoHo she found herself on one of New York’s grungier side streets and face-to-face with a mugger. “Please sir she pleaded. “You can take my Fendi baguette, you can take my ring and my watch, but don’t take my Manolo Blahniks.

When Carrie Bradshaw, the shoe-loving central character of the HBO TV series Sex

Unfortunately for Carrie, the mugger did just that and ran off with her favourite pair of

strappy sandals. Thanks in part to Sex And The City Manolo Blahnik has become one of the handful of designers whose name is synonymous with their product. In his case it is his Christian name, because “Manolo is now used as slang to describe very expensive, very beautiful shoes: even by the millions of people who have never actually seen a pair of Manolo Blahniks and could not dream of spending $300 or $400 to buy them.

PURE MANOLO

Photo by Michael Roberts

This achievement is all the more remarkable given that Blahnik, like an old school haut couturier, is solely responsible for the design and prototype of every shoe that bears his name. Working alone without apprentices or assistants, he sketches his shoes, chisels the wooden lasts on which they are moulded and sculpts the heels. He then supervises their production and even sketches the illustrations for his advertising campaigns. He has achieved all this without any formal training in shoe-making. “I didn’t need it, Blahnik told his friend Michael Roberts only half-jokingly in the late 1970s, “because I’ve got the best taste in the world. Born in Santa Cruz de la Palma in the Canary Islands in 1942, Manolo Blahnik was brought up there on the banana plantation owned by his Czech father and Spanish mother. He and his younger sister Evangelina were educated at home rather than being sent away to school. “Our property had no neighbours apart from my grandfather’s house, he recalled. “It was just bananas, the sea and us….a sort of paradise. The family often travelled to Paris and Madrid, where his parents ordered clothes from his mother’s favourite couturiers, like Cristobál Balenciaga, and his father’s tailor. Sometimes his mother improvised and she persuaded the local Canary Islands cobbler to teach her how to make Catalan espadrilles from ribbons and laces. Manolo loved to watch her making them. “I’m sure I acquired my interest in shoes genetically or at least through my fingers, when I was allowed to touch them as they were made, he later claimed. She also subscribed to fashion magazines, such as US Vogue, Glamour and Silhuetos, which would dock at the Canary Islands months after their original publication having been shipped from Cuba and Argentina with the children’s comics. Hoping that Blahnik would become a diplomat, his parents enrolled him at university in Geneva to study politics and law but after a term, he switched to the more congenial subjects of literature and architecture. In 1965, he left Geneva for Paris to study art and made ends meet by working at GO, a vintage clothes store on rue de Bonaparte near Saint-German-des-Près. After a few years in Paris, his father suggested that he moved to London and enrolled him at a language school to perfect his English, but Manolo spent most of his afternoons in Leicester Square cinemas watching film after film. After eking out a living in boutiques and from occasional design jobs, Blahnik toyed with becoming a stage set designer and took a portfolio of drawings to New York in 1971 in the hope of drumming up work there. Paloma Picasso, a friend from Paris, arranged for him to meet Diana Vreeland, the editor of US Vogue. When she looked at his drawings, Vreeland exclaimed: “How amusing. Amusing. You can do accessories very well. Why don’t you do that? Go make shoes. Your shoes in these drawings are so amusing. Pure Fashion

Back in London, he began designing men’s shoes – vividly coloured versions of the vintage co-respondent shoes he admired in old movies – for Zapata, a boutique on Old Church Street in Chelsea. Blahnik also visited the factories during production to learn about the process. He found men’s shoes rreatively limiting: “What can you do with a proper English brogue? They can’t really be improved upon without introducing the sort of fashion element I really don’t like in men’s clothing. In 1972 Ossie Clark, the flamboyant fashion designer, asked him to design the shoes for his next collection. The shoes looked extraordinary – one pair sported red cherries entwined around the ankles and a vertiginous heel – but were structurally perilous. “I forgot to put in heels that would support the shoe, when it got hot the heels started to wobble – it was like walking on quicksand, he remembered years later. “If you’re buying (his) shoes, employ a sense of humour, warned British Vogue. By then, his shoes at Zapata were sought after by Vogue editors, such as Grace Coddington, and hip young actresses like Marisa Berenson, Jane Birkin and Charlotte Rampling. Even vintage Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall popped in. Blahnik hunted for a reliable manufacturer to correct his technical shortcomings and found one in Walthamstow, north east London. Gradually he learnt the craft of shoe-making: “It took many years to realise how to do shoes how to make them lovely and arty and technically perfect. Much as fashion editors loved Blahnik’s shoes, he was portrayed in their magazines more often as an handsome, cultured man-about-town than as a designer. In 1974, he became the first man to appear on the cover of British Vogue – photographed in a passionate clutch with Angelica Huston by David Bailey. Blahnik borrowed £2,000 to buy out Zapata’s owner and to make the business – and its Old Church Street shop – his own to run with Evangelina. In 1977 Michael Roberts described a visit there: “Customers constantly reel back as the designer dashes about, chivvying his assistants, commenting on the latest Vogue, and speaking volubly on the telephone to his friends, from pal Bianca Jagger to his mother. He continued to collaborate with fashion designers including Jean Muir and Fiorucci as well as Ossie Clark. Slowly he broke into the US by creating a collection for Bloomingdales in 1978 and opening his first US store – on New York’s Madison Avenue – the next year. It was not until the early 1980s that his US business really took off after he brought in George Malkemus, a young copywriter in Bergdorf Goodman’s marketing department, to run it leaving he and Evangelina in charge of the European business. By then, Blahnik had settled upon a successful formula for his collection: a combination of “occasional avant garde looks for the affluent few and “good solid looks that will wear forever.

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Inspired by his eclectic passions: from favourite Visconti and Cocteau films, and grandes dames like Elizabeth of Austria and Pauline Borghese; to the paintings of Velázquez, El Greco and Zurburán, and the work of the couturiers he most admires such as Cristobál Balenciaga, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. Like all truly talented designers Blahnik had the ability - even at the start of his career - to stamp all his work with a distinctive signature style. Yet he was also stylistically innovative. In the 1970s, when mainstream shoe styling was still dominated by clumpy platforms, he revived the sleek stiletto heel, which has since become a classic. Later he refined the rustic Mediterranean mules that he remembered from his childhood into an elegant shoe which is now a staple.

MANOLO BLAHNIK

autumn / winter 14/15

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s Blahnik concentrated on mastering the techniques of shoe-making by finding the best possible factories to work with and studying them carefully. He also made the most of his collaborations with fashion designers, notably Calvin Klein, an experience which taught him a great deal about designing for a broader market, and the younger designers, Isaac Mizrahi and John Galliano. By the late 1990s when the fashion writer and historian Colin McDowell observed Blahnik at work, he had been in command of his craft for years. The process of creating a Manolo Blahnik shoe begins with Manolo sketching it at home in Bath, his London office or one of his northern Italian factories with a Tombo Japanese brush pen in three minutes of “firm, assured hand movements followed by precise, sharp little jabs as the details are fitted in. He then takes up to a day to carve the last – usually from beechwood – and then sculpts the the heel, which is carved first on the machine, then chiseled and filed by hand. When Blahnik is satisfied, an aluminium mould is made of the last and then the plastic last from which the shoe will be made. “I have the advantage of study, he told Colin McDowell. “I’ve been studying the art of the shoe… for over twenty years. I know every process. I know how to cut and cut away here (the side of the shoe) and still make it so that it stays on the foot. And the secret of toe cleavage, a very important part of the sexuality of the shoe. You must only show the first two cracks. And the heel. Even if it’s twelve centimetres high it still has to feel secure – and that’s a question of balance. That’s why I carve each heel personally myself – on the machine and then by hand with a chisel and file, until it’s exactly right.

MANOLO BLAHNIK & ROSA TOUS

Manolo Blahnik and Rosa Tous met one summer in Madrid whilst having lunch. He commented on the beauty of a particular pendant in the shape of a bear by TOUS and she mentioned how she would love for him to design a piece for the jewellers… Blahnik immediately knew that the famous Mary Jane “Campari” shoe would make the perfect design and Tous was thrilled, describing how the pendant would be perfect with a gold chain and diamond; and so simply, here began the collection ‘Manolo Blahnik for Tous’. The pendant is a perfect miniature of the famous ‘Campari’ shoe which was created in 1994 and has become one of the most iconic designs of high heel to date featuring in numerous films and TV shows. The sophisticated collection which embodies the style and attitude of New York combined with the classicism of Manolo Blahnik design, includes pendants of silver and gold available in 3 different sizes, or the luxury edition in gold with a diamond; a must-have for any Manolo enthusiast. 98

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31 WEST 54TH ST. NEW YORK . 49-51 OLD CHRUCH STREET LONDON . BERGDORF GOODMAN NEWYORK NIEMAN MARCUS STORES . WYNN LAS VEAGS www.manoloblahnik.com

SUM MER 2014

FV The Fashionvilla Experience Visit Fashionvilla Marbella For All the Style You Want Under the Sun.... Like shopping? Then you are going to love Fashionvilla Marbella - a unique luxury establishment in Marbella, where shopping for clothes is an absolute dream. One of the last remaining multi-brand boutiques in the Marbella area, Fashionvilla provides a professionalized and personal shopping experience with more than a touch of Marbella glamour. 102

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Photography

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DAVID SIMS

notoriously private person, David Sims prefers to leave little trace only the fleeting moments heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s captured on film. With his gritty, stark, realistic, and anti-fashion style, he was among a small cadre responsible for the renaissance of British photography in the early nineties; his use of minimal background and flat studio lighting reflected the decadeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pared-down aesthetic. Today, he is a regular contributor to Vogue, delivering immaculate and energetic images that eschew story line, stripping away all distractions to put the focus strictly on the clothes. 110

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Fashion photographer David Sims is born in Yorkshire, England in 1966. He leaves secondary school when he is 17 and soon starts assisting photographers Robert Erdmann and Norman Watson. At 19 he steps out on his own and gets his work published in i-D. He also starts collaborating with make-up artist Dick Page and hairstylist Guido Palau. He becomes one of the ‘new photographers’, who are partially responsible for the changes in fashion photography in the 90ties. In 1993, David Sims is hired by Calvin Klein to shoot an ad campaign with Kate Moss and for this David Sims becomes internationally recognized. He signs a one-year exclusive contract to Harper’s Bazaar (USA). In the post ‘fashion photography changed in the 90ties’ I showed some early pictures of David Sims, modelled by Emma Balfour and his first i-D cover of February 1996, starring Kate Moss covering one eye with her hand. Another series that stayed with me is published in Harper’s Bazaar in ’93, modelled a young Linda Evangelista. David Sims’s photographs appear at the Howard Greenberg Gallery in New York and in ’94 and he is named Young Fashion Photographer of the Year. But it is his ’95 campaign for the Japanese avant-garde designer Yohji Yamamoto that is the real turning point in his career. In ’96 David Sims is named Photographer of the year at the International Festival of Fashion Photography, beating Steven Meisel, Juergen Teller, Craig McDean, Mario Testino and David LaChapelle. He also starts working with menswear designer Raf Simons. Together they produce ‘Isolated Heroes’, a collection of portraits of Raf Simons’s unconventional models dressed in his s/s 2000 collection. This eventually develops into a book and a traveling exhibit. In 2000 Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) reports the days of alternative fashion magazines may be coming to an end, as’”phtographers once synonymous with the underground are now employed by the likes of Vogue“. In 2002 David Sims becomes romantically involved with Luella Bartley, a fashion journalist turned designer. Soon son Kip Sims is born, two years later followed by daughter Stevie Sims and in 2007 second son Ned Sims joins the family. When he’s not travelling the world shooting for the world’s top fashion magazines, David can be found hitting the surf in Cornwall, where family lives. David Sims known as a very private person and prefers to leave little trace- only the beautiful photographs he makes. his style has shifted with time, becoming more kinetic and less nitty-gritty after the turn of the millennium. David Sims still prefers to shoot against a plain backdrop, but he instructs his models to bend, jump, and otherwise push the edges of the frame. He works for Vogue not just with one main fashion editor, but with all the magazine’s stalwarts: Grace Coddington, Tonne Goodman, Camilla Nickerson, and Phyllis Posnick.

Luella Bartley, an English writer and magazine editor who first became famous for her nowdefunct fashion label, has admitted to being nervous about revealing new projects—say, a book cover or home-decorating scheme—to him. Why? Because he is an arbiter of extreme discernment. David Sims & Luella Bartley are named in The Independent’s list of style influencers in 2009. When Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief, spoke about her vision as the new editor in chief of French Vogue, David Sims’s name popped up. He’s been tapped by Prada and Yves Saint Laurent to do advertisements and after photographing Kate Moss with ‘faux-cropped’ short hair for the book Heads: Hair by Guido, she was inspired to cut her hair for real. All these proof positive of how the understanding and taste of this least self-promoting of fashion photographers is respected across the industry.

United colors of Beneton

Alexander McQueen s/s 2013 The Alexander McQueen collection s/s 2013 runs with a beekeeper inspiration … For the campaign pictures model Raquel Zimmermann has her entire hair, face and shoulders (and the statement collarednecklace she’s wearing) dripped in honey.

Hermes

Visionaire issue 40/ Roses Book Cover For this issue of Visionaire, Sims reveals a personal project that he has been working on for several years. ”I think of these roses as portraits. ” Sims explains, ”I was a pupil at the school where these roses grow…when I look at these roses close up and trace their own knocks and dents, I find a greater beauty and a complexity in their imperfections. The roses represent for me a very definite point in life and a state of mind. ” Pure Fashion

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Publication: Vogue US March 2014 Model: Edie Campbell Photographer: David Sims Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington Hair: Guido Palau Make-up: Lisa Butler

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FINE JEWELRY

1932 Ring in 18K white gold and diamonds

www.chanel.com SUNSEARCH MAGAZINE

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RE PU Weddings From Posh Spice’s wedding dress to threads for Hollywood’s A-list, Vera Wang’s elegant gowns murmur sophistication.

Vera was raised on Manhattan’s Upper East Side by her mother, Florence Wu, a UN translator, and her father, Cheng Ching Wang, an oil and pharmaceutical tycoon. She was a competitive ice skater until the age of twenty. Vera studied Theatre at Sarah Lawrence College, but switched to Art History when she realized that an Asian woman, in the early 1970s, was unlikely to be successful as an actress. She was an editor at Vogue for seventeen years and Ralph Lauren design director for two years, despite having no formal design training. Many celebrities have appeared in her designs, she has designed skating dresses for Nancy Kerrigan, and gowns for Sharon Stone, Alicia Silverstone, Tyra Banks, Jennifer Garner and Mariah Carey. After a long and strenuous search for the perfect wedding dress for her own lavish wedding, Vera decided to design her own line of wedding dresses. In 1990, she opened the Vera Wang Bridal House Ltd., on Madison Avenue in New York. Vera Wang’s many accomplishments include her trademark upscale wedding gowns, a range of accessories, a published wedding book, a fragrance line, and designing a Barbie gown collection.

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Profile

RE PU Gian Padilla Suarez was born in Tegucigalpa, Honduras. Her parents Honduran paiter Luis H. Padilla and her mother Leda Suarez a gallery owner. It is at home that Gian learns to appreciate the world of art and design. In 2005 she goes on to live in Paris where she enriches in the vibrant art scene. Later she moves to Barcelona where she enrolls in fashion studies at the Instituto Europeo di Design IED, where she completes her studies in fashion. For her thesis in IED she was inspired by a poem written by her aunt-grandother Clementina Suarez, an Honduran poet. After her studies she has commenced her own clothing brand, G.I.A.N. She is the creative director of her own brand. 126

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G.I.A.N.

MUÑECAS DOLLS With “Muñecas” I wanted it to be playful, colorful, worldly. I remember playing dress-up with my dolls when I was younger, I think I never stopped at all. So I started to play around with those three elements and ended up with a ready-to-wear collection. The accesories I created myself and shoes by Aljoscha Quooss

Gian Padilla Suarez, who seven years ago left for Barcelona, Spain with a clear objective: to become a recognized designer dressmaker young Honduran modas. La exhibited some designs from his collection “Dolls” in a booth at Honduras Fashion Week 2013, where she impressed Socrates McKinney, executive director of Dominicana Moda, who immediately invited her to participate in the fashion week in Dominican. Gian says “I want to establish a brand here in Honduras, I hope to establish myself in my country and create my brand GIAN for the world“.

Art in her veins, she the daughter of the painter H. Padilla and Luis Suarez Leda. “Art was always a normal thing at home, which led me to imagine other worlds, including fashion design and sources of inspiration came from my great-aunt Clementina Suárez,” said Gian. “My first collection, entitled ‘Dolls’, is that precisely because from designing costumes for my barbies, but I needed to refine these design ideas I already trusted so I decided to go to Barcelona, where she studied fashion.” The collection is an explosion of inspiration that came from the east and west of the Americas, including Honduras.

Photography: Marta Balastegui Model: Naima Bossi Make-Up Artist: Estíbaliz Otero www.gianpadillasuarez.com

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c/ Ribera - Local 15 - B, Casa F 29660 Puerto Banús - Marbella Tel.: 952 906 525 - Fax: 952 907 607

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H&M Spring/Summer 2014 Swimwear Campaign with Gisele Bundchen

Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen fronts H&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s latest swimwear campaign for Spring/Summer 2014, in a sweltering photoshoot shot on location in Costa Rica. The campaign sees Gisele modelling swimwear and casual beach clothing from the range in the tropical seaside location. Pure Fashion

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The model isn’t just starring behind the lens. She’s also recorded a music video for the campaign, performing Blondie’s ‘Heart of Glass’. She worked on the cover with French music producer Bob Sinclar and the duo will donate all the royalties from the single to help UNICEFs projects to protect vulnerable children. Released in May, fans will be able to buy the track from iTunes or download it for on the H&M website.

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Adidas Originals reveal an exclusive collaboration with Brazil’s The Farm Company for Spring/Summer 2014.

n an exclusive collaboration between two of the world’s most evocative brands, adidas Originals’ meets Brazil´s The Farm Company.

Taking iconic Styles from adidas Originals rich heritage and reworking them through a series of The Farm Company´s signature prints, a partnership has developed that promises to blur the lines between sport and street style in an explosion of colour. The result is an exclusive collection of feminine pieces that contemplate the Originals lifestyle with four different prints developed artistically by The Farm Company. Translating the global energy and anticipation as the world turns towards Brazil with fresh eyes this year, The Farm Company have developed a range of four kaleidoscopic repeat graphics in eye watering colours. Highlighting the capital of Rio through playful imaginings of indigenous flora and fauna, Toucans and tropical flowers burst out of canvas, jersey, cottons and more, adding carnival fever to unmistakable urban classic silhouettes.

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Reimagined through The Farm Company’s Tucanário, Borboflor, Frutaflor and Floralina prints, adidas Originals favourites emerge with fruity zest. An adidas Originals classic since the 1970s, the Gazelle sneaker, gets a makeover in time for the ultimate tournament, soaking up the vibrancy of the equatorial jungle and reemerging rich in flavor and hotter than ever. From the celebrated Firebird tracksuit to the humble tank, iconic Originals styles spice it up for summer in the tropics, complemented by cascades of flowers and fruit adding a sexy, carefree vibe to a solid collection of classics. Even spilling across adidas Originals accessories line, The Farm Company spreads its bloom further over bags, purses and more. The collaborative collection between adidas Originals and The Farm Company will be available in Brazil from 22 March 2014 exclusively through The Farm Company locations – stores and online – and the global adidas Originals outlets.

The collaboration blurs the lines between street style and sportswear with an exciting vibrant colour palette.

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www.stellamccartney.com

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LIKE A QUEEN Like A Queen is an exclusive Luxury Bijouterie & Accessory Brand. Developed with the goal to design and produce fa-scinating and unique pieces, Like A Queen explore to the maximum the materials, color ranges and ornamental elements to create the latest trend accessories. Like A Queen has been created by the French Designer Caroline Azzi and the Argentinean Designer Patricia Nahmad. Both Designers belong to the world of Art, Design, Fashion & Architecture.Â Mixing their skills, their ideas & their vision, creates inspiriting pieces that magnifies the woman, inspires her & makes her unique. The Summer Collection presents fresh & colorful pieces ornate with elements inspired by nature like corals, shells, exotic birds and butterflies. The Collection includes Necklace, Bracelets, Hats, Beach Baskets, Hand Bags, Caps, Sunglasses, Tunics and Beach Wear. All the pieces are hand crafted with high quality materials and together with their exclusive Design create an exquisite collection. The accessories become essentials to create unique looks, ca-sual, cocktail or night. The brand is planning to launch a new line of exclusive objects & complements for the house. Like A Queen is thanking all their clients for being the best ambassadors of their collections.

THE OCEAN The Mediterranean, its Fauna & Flora, the Sand, the Foam of the Sea, the Smell of the Twilight have inspired this Collection.

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THE TROPICS Symphony of Birds & Colors, Leaves, Flowers & the warm wind have inspired this Collection.

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THE EARTH Culture, Rituals, Nature, the Tribal is fusing the the Elegance & the Design, Pure Colors have inspired this Collection.

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SHOPS Spain LADY RUSS - Avenida del Mar - Marbella GYVA La Cañada - Marbella VALENTINA- Centro Comercial Centro Plaza - Marbella SEA SOUL BEACH CLUB - Iberostar - Marbella SOHO TRENDS - Puerto Banus MADDONA - Puerto Banus OCEAN CLUB - Puerto Banus AZULAY - Malaga France CHICHOO 88 - Saint Tropez Asia INIALA HOTEL - Puket - Thailand South America SHOWROOM NAHMAD - Buenos Aires- Argentina

C A T W A L K S

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CONTACT Please write to: comercial@likeaqueen.es

www.likeaqueen.es SHOP ON LINE

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YOUR

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RE PU Top bio

Miranda Kerr

Miranda May Kerr was born in Sydney and raised in the small town of Gunnedah to John and Therese Kerr. Kerr’s paternal grandmother lived on a farm, where she “raced motorbikes and rode horses.” Her parents later moved the family to Brisbane when she and her younger brother Matthew were teenagers. She originally aspired to become a nutritionist and later studied nutrition and health psychology after her high school graduation, one of Kerr’s friends sends her photos into a modeling contest for Dolly magazine; at just 13 years old, she’s crowned the winner and after she graduated in 2000, from All Hallows’ School, she starts modeling for Australian swim and surfwear brand Billabong.

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Royal Albert has announced the launch of an exciting new partnership with worldrenowned supermodel and entrepreneur Miranda Kerr. As a sophisticated and feminine woman, Miranda perfectly embodies the essence and nature of the Royal Albert brand. Design work is already well underway on a beautiful fine bone china tea and giftware collection, created to encapsulate the free spirited, modern woman.

Making Moves After gaining fashion fame in Australia and then Japan, Kerr moves to New York City, where she soon scores a contract with Maybelline cosmetics. “I’m trying to focus on my work and myself for once,”

Angel Eyes In 2007, Kerr becomes the first Aussie to ever be named a Victoria’s Secret Angel, filling Gisele Bündchen’s vacated wings. Around the same time, the rising star is linked to British actor and fellow yogi Orlando Bloom, but remains mum about their relationship.

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KORA Her professional life continues to â&#x20AC;&#x153;bloom,â&#x20AC;? though; in October 2009, the healthy lifestyle advocate launches her own skincare line, Kora Organics.

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Summer Triple Play It’s definitely the summer of love for Bloom and Kerr: Soon after announcing their engagement, the lovebirds secretly marry in June 2010 – and one month after that, the model announces that she’s expecting a baby! “For me, family is life,” “The decision to start one wasn’t complex at all.”

Model Mama Kerr makes Aussie history as the first pregnant model to cover Vogue’s Australian issue. Inside the magazine, Kerr, six months pregnant at the time of her photo shoot and interview, talks about her excitement over motherhood. “Every mother I’ve spoken to has said you cannot explain the profound feeling of love that comes over you as soon as the baby is born,” she shares. “I’m really looking forward to that moment.”

Baby Love It’s a boy! Kerr and Bloom welcome son Flynn Christopher Blanchard Copeland on Jan. 6, 2011. “We are so happy and are enjoying our time together as a family,” Kerr writes on her Kora Organics website. “He is our little ray of sunshine. Thank you everyone for your beautiful well wishes and your lovely thoughts.” She later reveals that her son was named in part for her high school boyfriend, Christopher Middlebrook, who died in a car accident as a teenager.

Runway Ready Two months after giving birth, Kerr gets back to work, hitting the catwalk for Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week. “I felt a little nervous,” she tells PEOPLE of the fashion show. “It was probably a good five months since I had worn high heels, but it was kind of like riding a bicycle.” As she continues to work – and dote on her little guy – she’s named number seven on Forbes’s list of the highest-paid models of 2011-12, and earns the title of Esquire U.K.’s “Sexiest Woman Alive” in October 2012.

2013 April Spreading Her Wings Kerr shocks fans in early 2013, confirming rumors that she and Victoria’s Secret are parting ways. “I’ve been modeling since I was 13,” she tells the Sydney Morning Herald. “I’m now entering a new phase in my life. I have felt this coming since my son was born and, after I became a mother, I realized I needed to prioritize my time. I’ve reached a point in my career where I’m developing my own opportunities that are really reflective of my passions.” Victoria’s Secret is supportive of its fallen Angel, inviting her to walk in the 2013 runway show regardless of the split.

Going Their Separate Ways After six years together, and three years of marriage, Kerr and Bloom announce they’ve separated. “Despite this being the end of their marriage, they love, support and respect each other as both parents of their son and as family,” reads their joint statement, which follows earlier speculation the pair was headed for a split Pure Fashion

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The most commonly recognized luxury handbag in the world is most certainly the Hermès Birkin. Both iconic and current, the legendary bag by Hermes conjures love and adoration whatever the arm it swings from.

Victoria Beckham owns well over 100, Rita Ora, Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez are just a few of the army of followers, and waiting lists can spiral for up to six years apiece. But how much do you really know about the cult classic? The most sought-after item is a crocodile Birkin bag that was custom made with an indigo interior. It’s estimated to be worth $60,000 to $70,000. Crocodile Birkin bags can retail for $60,000 in Hermès stores; leather Birkin bags for about $10,000.

www.hermes.com

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THE STORY OF THE HERMES BIRKIN BAG The first of these incredible handbags was manufactured in the early 80’s for model, singer, and it-girl Jane Birkin. After being seated next to Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight to Paris, with her overstuffing a straw bag with copious clutter, the actress startled Mr. Dumas, with an unprecedented rant as her handbag clutter came crashing out of the overhead locker. Dumas asked her to describe exactly what size and features she would want in such a bag, and shortly thereafter she received that bag with a personal note.

Jane Birkin was born on December 14, 1946 in London, England as Jane Mallory Birkin. She is an actress, known for Death on the Nile (1978), Blow-Up (1966) and La bella mentirosa (1991). She was previously married to John Barry composer of many James Bond film soundtracks.

Deep, sturdy and rectangular - there’s no tipping this bad boy with a lockable flap closure and cute arm handles, the iconic Birkin comes in six sizes (25cm, 30cm, 35cm, 40cm, 50cm and shoulder style), with an endless stream of colours and leather finishes. Since that day, the Birkin bag has become one of the most iconic accessories in modern fashion. With the price of one of these handbags ranging from $5,000 USD to over 6 figures, there is an infamous waiting list

known to be up to 4 years. Hermès does not sell Birkin bags online or through any online retailers, but consignment shops and online auctions have been known to re-sell older styles. At Auction last year, the glossy saltwater crocodile Birkin finished in white gold and diamonds, went for a whiplashing $203,150. The classic calfskin Birkins however start from around the £6,000 mark. Refreshing in comparison...perhaps? There is one health warning to note however, aside from the pricetag, as along with the leather outer, the bag is also lined with goatskin. So if you do plan on bagging a Birkin, get on the bicep curls now. That is one heavy handbag.

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THE STORY OF THE HERMES KELLY BAG The Kelly Bag is made by one individual craftsman in about 18 hours of work. The skins arrive at the factory already laid out in perfect symmetry, ready for the expert to being his (or her) magic. Hermès is recognized for its handmade luggage and handbag collections. The company does not use assembly lines, only one craftsperson may work on one handbag at a time, hand-stitching each individual piece. Due to the labor-intensive nature of Hermès production methods and the use of rare materials, sometimes including exotic skins as well as precious metals, one bag can take 18 to 24 hours to create. The construction of each Kelly bag, for example, requires 18 hours of work by a single artisan.

The Kelly bag was designed by Robert Dumas in the 1930s and was originally called ‘sac a courroie pour dames’ meaning ‘bags with straps for ladies’. The bag was made infamous by the actress Grace Kelly when in 1956 she used the bag to hide her pregnancy from the paparazzi. Photographs of this beautiful bag were on covers of magazines around the world making it an overnight sensation. Hence it was renamed the “Kelly” bag.. 170

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Goat skins are used for the lining and this is the first part to be actually sewn. After the lining is made, the base of the handbag is handsewn to the front and back with waxed linen thread. A double saddle stitch is used and each thrust of the needle is carefully done. A tiny hole is made with an awl before each stitch and the stitch size dictates the size of the hole. Adjustment is made for the particular grain of the leather to work with the natural pattern. The handle comes next in the careful construction of the Kelly handbag and the shaping is done by hand with painstaking attention to detail.

The layers of the stitched leather is smoothed with sandpaper and then dyed to match the handbag. Hot wax is applied to protect the handle from moisture. The distinctive front flap is then added to the bag body and next is the distinctive hardware and 4 feet on the bottom. Each of these metal parts are hand riveted. Believe it or not, the handbag is then ironed to gently smooth out the wrinkles in the calfskin. Last is the famous gold stamp that says “Hermes Paris”.

Karl Lagerfeld is the master of reinvention, having repeatedly transformed himself as well as his labels and is distinguished as one of the most acclaimed fashion designers in the world. Known for his bold designs and constant reinvention, he’s been hailed by Vogue magazine as the “unparalleled interpreter of the mood of the moment.” Karl Otto Lagerfelt was born in 1933 to a wealthy German businessman father and Swedish mother in pre-war Germany. He has one older sister, Martha Christiane, who was born in 1931, and an older half-sister - Thea - from his father’s first marriage. Lagerfeld’s father, Christian, made his fortune by bringing condensed milk to Germany. Karl and his older sister, Martha, and a half-sister, Thea, thus grew up in a wealthy home. Intellectual activity was encouraged at the Lagerfeld home. His mother, Elizabeth, was an accomplished violin player and talk at the dinner table often included subjects such as religious philosophy. When Hitler rose to power in the 1930s, the Lagerfelds moved to a rural area of northern Germany, where, as Karl would later recount, he was cut off from any knowledge about the Nazis and as his family was Independently wealthy he was mainly shielded from the deprivations of World War II. From an early age, Lagerfeld expressed an interest in design and fashion. As a child he often cut out pictures from fashion magazines. He was also known to be critical of what others wore to school. But it wasn’t until his teen years, after his family had returned to Hamburg, that Legerfeld immersed himself in the world of high fashion. Sensing his future lay elsewhere Lagerfeld made the bold decision to emigrate to Paris at the age of 14, there he studied drawing and history. 174

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He’d been there just two years when he submitted a series of sketches and fabric samples to a design competition organized by the secretariat international de la laine (International Wool Association). The coat the young winner designed was produced by Pierre Balmain and at 17 Lagerfeld became the great designer’s assistant. Work placement followed with a full time position with French designer Pierre Balmain, first as a junior assistant, and later as an apprentice. It was a demanding position, and the young designer remained in it for three years before becoming art director for Jean Patou, where he remained for five seemingly calm years. This relative freedom allowed him to deepen his knowledge in subjects that had passionately interested him for years: history, architecture, music and especially eighteenth century French. By the beginning of the 60”s, Karl, had plunged into a career as an independent stylist in France, Italy, England and Germany with Lagerfeld designing collections for Chloe, Fendi (a collaborations that still continues today) and others. Lagerfeld became known in the fashion industry for his innovative, in-the-moment styles. But Lagerfeld also had an appreciation for the past, and he often shopped in flea markets, finding old wedding dresses to deconstruct. By the 1980s, Karl Lagerfeld was a major star in the fashion world. He was a favourite among the press, who loved to chronicle his changing tastes and social life. Lagerfeld kept company with other major stars, including his good friend Andy Warhol. While he’s developed a sort of hired gun reputation for jumping from one label to the next, he’s also put together a track record of success that few designers can match. His midus touch continued at Chanel where he was named Art Director in the early 1980s - he did what few thought possible: He returned what was perceived to be a near-dead brand back to life with a revamped popular ready-to-wear line-up, also around that time Lagerfeld launched his own label, which he built around the idea of what he described as “intellectual sexiness.”

La Scala, the Florence opera house, the Burgtheater of Vienna and for the Salzbourg festival, and the Monte Carlo ballet.

In 1987 he decided to move behind the lens, with his first press kit, and from this time on Lagerfeld has created his own advertising campaigns. His passion for photography and for books transformed his campaigns into veritable art books (published by Steidl), while continuing photo shoots for prestigious fashion magazines. His constant interest in new experiences led Lagerfeld to illustrate Hans Christian Anderson”s The Emperor”s New Clothes “. He created as well opera costumes for

The turn of the century saw Lagerfeld adopt a new look, redefining his image. Willpower and self -imposed diet helped him to lose 47 kilograms (103lbs) giving up a style that no longer fitted his personality. He wrote a book THE 3D DIET “(Designer, Doctor, Diet) about his unusual experience. It sold in tens of thousands throughout the world. He said “I think that fashion is the healthiest motivation for losing weight.” He also revealed that dieting isn’t any fun: “You have to be a real bore like me for it to work.”

Karl represents creativity, tradition and challenge, and the fact that he thought of Diesel for this collaboration is a great gift and acknowledgement of our reputation as the prêt-à-porter of casual wear.” Lagerfeld designed the costumes for the Carmen sequences in the 2002 film Callas Forever. Over the years, Lagerfeld has developed a reputation for quality tailoring with bold ready-to-wear pieces like cardigan jackets in bright colours. In 2004, he designed some of the outfits for the international music artist Madonna, for her Re-Invention tour and collaborated with the international Swedish fashion brand H&M where he offered a limited

Always controversial. During the 1993 Milan Fashion Week, Anna Wintour of Vogue America, walked because Karl had invited Porn star Moana Pozzi to be a model in the black and white collection for fendi. range of different Lagerfeld clothes in chosen outlets for both women and men. Only two days after having supplied its outlets, H&M announced that almost all the clothes were sold out. Lagerfeld had expressed some fear that working with lower-end brands will taint his image, although in the past he has worked closely with the hosiery designer Wolford. In recent years, Lagerfeld, whose work has crossed over into film and photography, he produced Visionaire 23: The Emperor’s New Clothes, a series of nude pictures of models and celebrities. The little black Jacket, a collection of photographs

featuring models and celebrities, he also personally photographed Mariah Carey for the cover of V magazine in 2005. In addition to his editorial work for Harper’s Bazaar, Numéro and the Russian and German editions of Vogue, Lagerfeld photographs advertising campaigns for the houses under his direction (Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous line) every season. The designer was also the subject of a French reality series called Signé Chanel in 2005. The show covered the creation of his Fall/Winter 2004–2005 Chanel couture collection airing on the Sundance

Channel in the United States during the fall of 2006. In 2008, Lagerfeld created a teddy bear in his likeness produced by Steiff in a limited-edition of 2,500 that sold for $1,500. Lagerfeld has been immortalized in many forms: pins, shirts, dolls, and more. In 2009, Tra Tutti began selling Karl Lagermouse and Karl Lagerfelt, mini Lagerfelds in the form of mice and finger puppets respectively. In 2010 he designed two footwear lines for Italian label Hogan.

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In 2011 he designed a line of glassware for the Swedish company Orrefors, in clear, black and milky glass, the collection “Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld” embodied his minimal clean aesthetic. “What I enjoy most is doing something I’ve never done before,” the designer said of his collection. That same year, he also signed on to create a new clothing collection for Macy’s. The collaboration was a kind of test to see if he could design clothes to a specific price range range. As you know, I love occasional co-branding,” explained Lagerfeld. “Macy’s is the perfect 178

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department store in the US, where everybody can find what they’re looking for without ruining their budget.” On 3rd June 2011 he was awarded the Gordon Parks Foundation Award in recognition of his work as a designer, photographer and filmmaker. “I’m so proud, and so very thankful, but I’m never done,” said Lagerfeld of the honour. “I knew Gordon’s photos before I knew Gordon, and they left such an impression on me as a student in München. That’s what you want, as an artist. That’s what I hope for.”

More recently, Karl has turned his hand to film direction. In 2013, he directed the short film Once Upon a Time... in the Cité du Cinéma by Luc Bessonin Saint-Denis with Keira Knightley in the role of Coco Chanel and Clotilde Hesme in the role of his aunt Adrienne Chanel.

Lagerfeld often disguises his work under the pseudonym Kaiser Karl

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SPRING/SUMMER 2014 For the new ESCADA campaign, photographers Claudia Knoepfel and Stefan Indlekofer showcased top model Julia Stegner. The motifs were inspired by the city of Marrakesh. The ESCADA campaign for Spring/Summer 2014 presents Julia on a rooftop terrace and strolling through narrow alleyways that shimmer with light; a modern diva, she is cool and radiates a subtle aura of sex appeal. In the spotlight: the evocative ESCADA summer looks with their bold sized prints and luminous colors.

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ISSUE 10 2014 EU e3.95 UK £3.50

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ISSUE Nº 1 2014 Spain 3.50€

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SUNSEARCH MAGAZINE ISSUE 11 2014 Spain €3.95

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REVEL IN RIO The City of Dreams TOP 10 LUXURY RESTAURANTS With the Perfect Ambience

PRIVATE PLANE PHENOMNON More accessible than ever

GIORGIO ARMANI Pure Genius

SUMMER TRENDS Pure Runway THE ONLY MAGAZINES IN SPAIN SOLD AND READ IN EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD

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