Sun Valley Magazine | Summer 2019

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WELLNESS FESTIVAL | SWEEP BOATS | BALLET AL FRESCO | THE ART OF PAUL BÉLIVEAU

Summer 2019

SOLITARIES CHOOSING TO GO IT ALONE IN SALMON RIVER COUNTRY


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PC: Joe Fletcher Photography

Sun Valley | Waimea


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The weakest are not those with disabilities, trauma, or injuries.

The weakest are not the veterans who return home with PTSD. Not those in a wheelchair. Nor those who feel they don’t fit in.

These are in fact the strongest, most resilient, most inspirational amongst us.

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contents // features Ned Perry, sweep boat captain for OARS, begins the 100-mile journey down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River.

56

THE BIG BOATS BY KITT DOUCETTE

64

SOLITARIES Choosing to go it alone in Salmon River country BY CHERYL HAAS

O N T H E C O V E R   Richard Zimmerman, aka “Dugout Dick,” lived in a series of caves above the Salmon River.

PHOTO BY ANDY ANDERSON

COURTESY OARS / ASHLEY PEEL

Navigating 3,000 pounds of gear down the Middle Fork of the Salmon


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contents // departments

86

26 localbuzz

48 getoutthere

‘TO INFINITY AND BEYOND’ Thanks to adaptive opportunities Diesel Ward soars

CREATING A MORE FOOD-JUST BLAINE COUNTY The Hunger Coalition takes on the stigma of food insecurity

38 body&soul

DEFINE YOUR OWN WELLBEING

BUDDHISM IN THE WOOD RIVER VALLEY

With a trout on the line, the world became James Carlin’s oyster

sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

72 inthearts CREATING A ‘UTOPIAN LIBRARY’ FROM GERSHWIN TO SOUL A CELEBRATION OF DANCE, AL FRESCO The San Francisco Ballet returns to Sun Valley

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A ‘REMARKABLE FISHERY’

Singer Morgan James ‘is on fire’

42 nextgenlife

Clockwise, from top: Josh Hanson and Kate Cullen, owners of Party Animal Vodka; Hailey Farmers Market; a trout caught on “The Ranch” section of the Henry’s Fork; and the bridal bouquet for the Allie and Gardie wedding.

94

The art of Paul Béliveau

A spiritual thread that runs from the area’s early days to the present

COOL DIPS IN OUR BACKYARD

“The Ranch” section of the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River

The 2019 Sun Valley Wellness Festival and Conference

LIFE ON THE FLY

52

Where to take a nice summer swim

AN ENDURING GREEN THUMB Clara Spiegel’s legacies live on

ADVOCATES FOR THE TRAILS Wood River Trails group adjusts its mission to engage multi-users

86 food&drink WHEN THE FARM COMES TO TOWN Farmers markets delight the senses, make economic sense

PARTY WITH A PURPOSE Vodka producers combine philanthropy with high-quality liquor

also in this issue

20  22  54  82  90  94

FROM THE PUBLISHER FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS CALENDAR OF EVENTS GALLERY BUZZ DINING LISTINGS SUMMER WEDDINGS

MAIN PHOTO: COURTESY PART Y ANIMAL VODK A / MEREDITH DEAN PHOTOGR APHY   ONIONS : DEV KHALSA FLYFISHING: BRYAN GREGSON PHOTOGR APHY   BOUQUET: CHEAT WOOD PHOTOGR APHY

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online // sunvalleymag.com  PAST ISSUES

VIDEO “The Sweep” – A short

VIDEO: COURTESY OARS / GORDON KLCO

film from OARS

MORE STORIES The Sun Valley Magazine website, at sunvalleymag. com, is user friendly and incorporates responsive design so that you get the same award-winning content on phones, tablets or desktop computers. On our site you will

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fromthepublisher // insight

publisher

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sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

Laurie Sammis / editor-in-chief

PHOTO:

F IVE B

STUDIOS

Free” is defined by the Merriam-Webster Dictionary as enjoying personal freedom; not subject to the control or domination of another. It is an admirable trait, one that most likely was revered by the men and women who have migrated to, or now call Idaho home. “Vrij” in Dutch, or German “frei,” the root word is ancient, also meaning “noble; joyful” from the Gothic form, and “dear, beloved” even further back in time. And it is this attribute of being cherished that all the characters and profiles in this Summer 2019 issue of Sun Valley Magazine carry in their story. Take, for example, the sweep boat drivers featured in “The Big Boats” by Kitt Doucette (page 56), a free-spirited bunch who gracefully dip long oars, bow and stern, to steer their craft around corners and through rapids down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in central Idaho. There are only about 35 sweep boat captains in the entire world, and they all work on the Wild and Scenic river cutting through the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. This summer issue also features the stories of Buckskin Bill, Free Press Frances, Cougar Dave, Dugout Dick, and Earl Parrott, the Hermit of Impassable Canyon. These are the solitaries of Salmon River country, whose fiercely guarded independence and rugged individualism were completely free of any control or domination by others and helped define a new degree of Idaho frontier freedom and self-reliance (“Solitaries”on page 64). For many in Idaho, including the hermits and sweep boat drivers featured in the issue, the definition of freedom is crystallized through our access to, and enjoyment of, the wild spaces within Idaho’s boundaries. Our rugged mountains, deep forests, and tumbling rivers are some of the wildest in the U.S. (Idaho has the third most wilderness area of all states, after Alaska and California). Follow the development of the Wood River Trails Coalition (WRTC), the nonprofit coalition that helps maintain over 400 miles of trails for a variety of recreational users (“Advocates for the Trails” on page 48) or read about fishing guide and Washington and Lee Anthropology Emeritus Professor John McDaniels, whose 36 seasons and 13,233 hours invested on “The Ranch” section of the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, have resulted in just over 2,001 trout over 17 inches taken (to date). Over 94 percent of those (1,987 to be precise) were caught on dry flies (“A Remarkable Fishery” on page 52). This issue looks both backwards through time and forward into the very essence of what defines Idaho, which seems to be having a moment, suddenly being discovered and written about by Forbes, Bloomberg, USA Today and Outside Magazine. Go out and explore the rivers, mountains, trails, and history surrounding the Sun Valley area this summer. Maybe you will find your own piece or place in Idaho to cherish and hold dearly.


More than a fly shop.

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featuredcontributors // writers & photographers

KITT DOUCETTE

KATE HULL

EMILEE MAE STRUSS

ANDY ANDERSON

Kitt Doucette is a renaissance

Kate Hull, a Texas native, moved

Emilee Mae Struss enjoys a

Andy Anderson grew up in

man with unyielding positivity.

to Idaho’s Teton Valley in 2012.

strong cup of coffee with a

St. Cloud, Florida, and currently

Groomed in the mountains of

She is the co-publisher and editor

dollop of coconut oil. She hails

lives in Mountain Home, Idaho,

Idaho, Kitt is a life-long skier

in chief for Powder Mountain

from Minnesota with a hearty

with his wife and kids. When not

and kayaker, enthusiastic surfer

Press’ Teton Valley Magazine. Her

hunger for travel and a passion

traveling on assignment, he can

and award-winning journalist

work has appeared in numerous

for listening to great life stories.

often be found with his bird dog

whose work has been published

Intermountain West and Texas-

She has a degree in Creative

on hunting or fly fishing trips.

in Rolling Stone, Men’s Journal

based magazines, including

Writing from Minnesota State

Andy believes advertising in its

and Dossier, among other

Texas Monthly, Texas Highways,

University, Mankato. Emilee Mae

highest form is art and brings

publications. When not tracking

Austin Monthly, Mountain Outlaw

runs her own writing business

an enthusiasm for adventure

polar bears in Norway, surfing

Magazine and Teton Home and

called Outtabounds Design and

and life to both his personal and

empty waves in Indonesia,

Living. When not writing, Kate

a social experiment called @

commercial work. He is hired

or sipping coffee in Central

can be found exploring her

livelifeunmaskd. If she’s not

for his ability to infuse this into

America, he can be found busting

surrounding Wydaho home with

writing, she probably running on

his lifestyle, location landscape,

out signature dance moves at

her husband, Kenny, and two

a dirt trail somewhere.

portrait and automotive imagery.

wedding receptions throughout

cattle dogs.

“‘Creating a ‘Utopian Library,’” page 72.

Cover photo and “Solitaries,” page 64.

the American West. “The Big Boats,” page 56.

“A Celebration of Dance, Al Fresco,” page 80; “Party With a Purpose,” page 88; Weddings, page 94.

also in this issue writers  Karen Bossick, Dick Dorworth, Cheryl Haas, Kate Hull, McKenna Koon, Brent Lawson, Jennifer Liebrum, Sarah Linville, and Hayden Seder.

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sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

photographers Karen Bossick, Cheatwood Photography, Zachary Collier, Meredith Dean, Steve Dondero, Jay Graham, Bryan Gregson, Lisa Jordan, Dev Khalsa, Gordon Klco, Hillary Maybery, Glenn Oakley, Ashley Peel, and Susan Scovell.


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Summer 2019

publisher/editor in chief Laurie C. Sammis

managing editor Adam C. Tanous

creative director Roberta Morcone

guest art director Kristina Mitchell

production director Drew Furlong

advertising sales Kelly Mitchell

digital coordinator and sales Lauren Cord

copy editor Patty Healey controller Linda Murphy circulation director Nancy Whitehead

Sun Valley Magazine Online: sunvalleymag.com email: info@sunvalleymag.com Sun Valley Magazine Awards 2018 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “Primal Necessity” 2017 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “The Long Journey Back” Finalist, Best Profile - “A Life in the Sky” 2016 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “The Great Migration” 2015 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Annuals & One-Time Custom Publication/Consumer Finalist, Best Cover/Consumer 2014 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Annuals & One-Time Custom Publication/Consumer 2013 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semiannual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2012 MAGGIE AWARDS Winner, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer 2011 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2010 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2010 OZZIE AWARDS Gold Winner, publication fewer than 6 times per year 2010 EDDIE AWARDS Gold Winner, publication fewer than 6 times per year 2010 IDAHO PRESS CLUB Best Magazine Serious Feature & Best Blog 2010 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer 2009 MAGGIE AWARDS Winner, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Sun Valley Magazine® (BIPAD # 074470772330) is published three times a year by Mandala Media LLC. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices are located at 313 N. Main St., Hailey, Idaho 83333. Telephone: 208.788.0770; Fax: 208.788.3881. Mailing address: 313 N. Main St., Hailey, Idaho 83333. Copyright ©2019 by Mandala Media, LLC. Subscriptions: $24 per year, single copies $7.95. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Sun Valley Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher. Mandala Media LLC sets high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable manner. This issue was printed on recycled fibers containing 10% post consumer waste, with inks containing a blend of soy base. Our printer is a certified member of the Forestry Stewardship Council, the Sustainable Forestry Initiative, and additionally meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. Postmaster — Please send address changes to: Sun Valley Magazine, 313 N. Main St., Hailey, ID 83333

Printed in the U.S.A.


You have the

energy and money.

TIP:

Just a few degrees makes a big difference in energy savings! Adjust your thermostat as high as comfort allows.

76

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Getaway to the Great Outdoors

Come visit us at Wild Horse contact us or visit our website at

www.wildhorsecreekranch.com 208.588.2575 4387 Wild Horse Creek Road, Mackay, ID 83251 The Ultimate Sun Valley Getaway

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

25


localbuzz

‘TO INFINITY AND BEYOND’ Thanks to adaptive opportunities Diesel Ward soars BY JENNIFER LIEBRUM

Diesel Ward, a few weeks after his graduation speech at Wood River Middle School

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PHOTOS : DEV KHALSA

Are you crying, mom?” Diesel Ward, 13, asked. “Maybe a little,” she affirmed with a nod and a restrained smile meant to reassure her child while maintaining composure. “Why? Are you just proud of me?” he prodded. “Cause you’re not the only one, so am I.” Ward and his mother, Kory, had this exchange while whiteboarding his thoughts for his parting speech at Wood River Middle School’s advancement ceremony in June. The honor was a well-guarded secret, and one most parents can’t say their children have had. The fact that a child with autism is breaking all the rules of his diagnosis has everything to do with this mother and child’s relationship and the community in which she and husband Billy chose to raise their son and daughters.

The Wards already had a daughter, Sailor, now 16, when twins Diesel and Jette arrived in 2005. Billy had deep Idaho roots, and Kory had designs on digging in for her progeny. But 18 months in, she had seen enough to know her boy saw the world differently. The Centers for Disease Control identifies autism spectrum disorder (ASD) as a developmental disability that can cause significant social, communication, and behavioral challenges. The Wards’ private reflections on Diesel’s quirks and limitations by age 3 led them to the Blaine County School District’s Developmental Preschool. They were encouraged to intertwine music and dance, equine-assisted therapy and skiing, alongside speech, social, and emotional intervention. All of these prescriptions were

able to be filled in one place: the Wood River Valley. “Once we knew what we were dealing with, and how we were going to tackle it, I told Billy we were never moving,” Kory recalled. “The staff that work with these students are all highly responsive partners,” said Susan Cooper, Diesel’s first school assigned occupational therapist. “They have learned how to honor a child’s unique interests and help them feel included in their school culture.” By age 6, Diesel was among the founding class of a revamped K-5 autism spectrum disorder program led by special education specialists Sara Polk and Michael Stemp. Diesel was also seeing a 1,000pound hairy therapist once a week at what is now Swiftsure Ranch, and skiing with

“ Diesel with his proud mom, Kory

OUR MOST PIVOTAL TOOL IN OUR DISTRICT IS THE ABILITY TO INTERVENE EARLY, AND OUR RESPONSE IS EXCEPTIONAL.” — M I C H A E L S T E M P, SPECIAL EDUCATION SPECIALIST

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

27


what is now known as Higher Ground USA. “Our most pivotal tool in our district is the ability to intervene early, and our response is exceptional,” Stemp said. “The teams that are in place here in our district are very highly trained. They recognize the community resources, and they thoughtfully refer parents and students to these resources. They collaborate closely to ensure continuation of care.” Higher Ground’s recreational program director Cara Barrett said that in her 18 years at the organization at least 10 families with special needs children have either moved here or vacation here regularly to take part in its sports programs. Students with special needs are integrated into ski week with their peers thanks to adaptive equipment and experienced staff. “Having Diesel participate at an early age has helped him be more willing to try various new activities,” Barrett said. “I have seen an increase in his self-esteem, confidence and being social with his peers.” Riding at Swiftsure has given Diesel more command of his emotions and focus, while promoting coordination, balance and social skills. Acting Executive Director Molly Boomer said therapy is offered for physical or

THE RECREATIONAL SPORTS COMBINED WITH THE UNIQUE EDUCATION AND EMOTIONAL SUPPORT AVAILABLE TO STUDENTS WITH DISABILITIES IS FAIRLY UNIQUE TO OUR VALLEY.” —MICHAEL STEMP

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sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

mental issues. Services for both are free and complement the district’s goals. “The recreational sports combined with the unique education and emotional support available to students with disabilities is fairly unique to our valley,” Stemp noted. Teresa Storey, who heads the Wood River Middle School program for students with emotional disabilities, said families have moved here because they’ve done their research and found “that Blaine County has a lot to offer in special education programs. We are trying to give them more skills to cope with their differences in order to access their educational programs, as well as build and maintain relationships. Participating in outside activities gives them another place to utilize the skills they are building in a more real world context.” Diesel still has whirling dervish moments, but he has learned how to access a safety net, internally and externally. At the middle school, he is clearly embraced, if not entirely understood, by most of his peers. This year alone he got a standing ovation in science for his song about the solar system. He made the local paper when he medaled at the Special

Olympics. He has made a name for himself there. Elsewhere, he might have been less assimilated. “Absolutely all of this would have looked very different had we not had access to the resources in the Wood River Valley,” said Kory. Before being invited to speak at the school ceremony, Diesel was most excited to see “Toy Story 4.” He didn’t want to talk about high school. It was a scary unknown. But the writing experience piqued his curiosity about the future, where he can expand on his talents in acting and singing. He even contemplated a run for student council president. And after a recent tour of the high school, Diesel came home singing, “…best day ever!” “His growth has been tremendous,” said his mom. “He definitely has more challenges ahead, but it definitely feels like all the movement has been forward, and that’s growth for him.” Working on the speech with Diesel allowed Kory to slow the frenetic pace of being his mother and beam a bit. “The way he went about this. That he is taking so much pride in the effort. That he is so proud of himself ... Well, he has every right to be proud. What an honor.”  2

PHOTOS COURTESY SWIF TSURE AND HIGHER GROUND USA

localbuzz // adaptive programs


Clockwise from above — Children at Swiftsure. Higher Ground events: lake day, Galena day, and bike path day (opposite page) with a young Diesel.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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localbuzz // hunger coalition

CREATING A MORE FOOD-JUST BLAINE COUNTY The Hunger Coalition takes on the stigma of food insecurity BY HAYDEN SEDER

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PHOTOS : COURTESY HUNGER COALITION / JAY GR AHAM

“Good food inspires joy, togetherness, growth, health, strength, and the courage to make a difference. The Hunger Coalition believes everyone has the right to good food.” These are the words displayed prominently across the home page of The Hunger Coalition’s website, an organization dedicated to making radical change with regard to food security in Blaine County. Through their food pantry, numerous programs for children, families, and infants, and the recent addition of Bloom programs, The Hunger Coalition tackles the oftenunderestimated level of food insecurity present in Blaine County. Founded in 2003 by Tom Iselin, The Hunger Coalition began as a small group of volunteers collecting and distributing food to families. Over time, it developed a food pantry based in Bellevue, and, by 2015, the organization had grown to include three weekly food distributions, 12 full-time staff members (which grew to 14 in 2019) and numerous programs. Programs and resources provided by The Hunger Coalition include its food pantry, Paws for Hunger, a partnership with Mountain Humane to help families facing financial difficulty to feed their pets, and Double Up Bucks, a collaboration with The Hunger Coalition and the Wood River Farmers’ Market where SNAP (food stamp) recipients can double their buying power (for instance, if you spend $20 on your SNAP card, you’ll get $40 to spend at the market). Various food programs to provide children with food include Daily Bites and Snack Packs during the school year and the Summer Food Program for children in the summer. The Infant Formula Initiative ensures babies who require supplemental nutrition get formula every month of their first year. The Hunger Coalition even provides a cooking and nutrition class for adults and for teens and a women’s group. Despite all of these amazing programs and initiatives launched by the Coalition in its 12 years of existence, members realized that the root causes of hunger weren’t being

addressed; rather, symptoms of the causes were simply being resolved. In order to better understand the big picture of hunger in Blaine County, the Coalition conducted a Community Food Assessment (CFA), which revealed that stigma was the primary barrier preventing people from reaching out for food when they needed it most. Even though the Coalition knew that 19 percent of the county was accessing their food services, a United Way report uncovered that a staggering 35 percent of Blaine County was food insecure or one crisis away from it. Based on this report, the Hunger Coalition pivoted to add some programs that would have less stigma attached to them. “A lot of what we do now is largely to address

and alleviate some of the stigma that has historically been tied to food assistance,” said Kristin McMahon, Communications and Development Supervisor for The Hunger Coalition. “We’re trying to address why there’s such a gap of people not accessing our services when we’re available for everyone.” McMahon went on to explain that this was the impetus for the Bloom Program, which launched in 2016 and includes the Bloom Farm, Bloom Truck, Bloom Youth Project, Volunteer for Veggies, and a stronger Summer Food Program. The Bloom Community Farm, located in Quigley Canyon via Fox Acres Road, and the Hope Garden, located in Hailey next to the Blaine County Courthouse, offer the Volunteer for

Interns at the Bloom Community Farm grow food, cook meals, and run a mobile market.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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PHOTO: COURTESY HUNGER COALITION

localbuzz // hunger coalition

AP

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Veggies program, which lets volunteers farm and garden in exchange for a share of fresh, local produce harvested on site. Lynea Petty, Food Production Manager at The Hunger Coalition explained: “One of the main reasons we built the farm is to increase food access in a non-stigmatized way through Volunteer for Veggies. We saw this concept in places around the country where people can work in exchange for the fresh veggies they’ve just harvested.” Petty has found that the program is working across the board to decrease stigma with everyone from 2-month-olds to 80-year-old retirees to people of all ethnicities coming out to the farm. “It’s exactly what we hoped it would be, a community farm that attracts everyone,” Petty said. In summer and fall, the Coalition’s 32

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fresh food markets also sell the bounty of both the Bloom Farm and the Hope Garden. The Bloom Youth Project allows local teenagers the chance at a sevenmonth, paid internship using Bloom Community Farm as a platform. The interns grow food, cook meals, run a mobile market, and more. “There are workshops all the time where they learn money management, how to cook, interpersonal communication skills, and how to set goals,” Petty said. The Bloom Truck, launched in 2016 as part of the Bloom Program, is a partnership with the Community Library to bring food and books into neighborhoods in Blaine County communities via the food truck. Additionally, every week different nonprofits and businesses come out with an activity for kids such as a bike repair workshop through retailer Sturtevants or


BLOOM TRUCK AND FOOD PANTRY: COURTESY HUNGER COALITION / JAY GR AHAM   BLOOM TRUCK AND FOOD PANTRY: COURTESY HUNGER COALITION / LISA JORDAN

WE’RE TRYING TO ADDRESS WHY THERE’S SUCH A GAP OF PEOPLE NOT ACCESSING OUR SERVICES WHEN WE’RE AVAILABLE FOR EVERYONE.” —KRISTIN MCMAHON, COMMUNICATIONS AND DEVELOPMENT SUPERVISOR FOR THE HUNGER COALITION

an art class through the Sun Valley Center for the Arts. “It’s a collective effort to tackle some of these pressing problems,” McMahon said. In another effort to make the organization more accessible, the Hunger Coalition did a brand makeover last summer that included changing its logos and modifying their messaging in a way that talks differently about hunger and the people affected. “We’re trying to bring a lot more awareness,” McMahon said. “People know the glitz and glamour of Sun Valley, but we have such a severe wealth disparity as well as very high food costs and low wages, which drives these problems.” Indeed, in an article from the Idaho Statesman, Blaine County was cited as the 27th highest in terms of wealth inequality. The Hailey area was ranked ninth. A 2018 report based on the U.S. Bureau of Labor statistics also cited Idaho as 10th in a list of states with the lowest wages in the country. For now, McMahon said, “We’re working on really excelling in our current programs and also trying to dream up the future and how we can better address the problem of food insecurity more holistically.” The future might involve a variety of partnerships and new ideas for Blaine County, but, for now, The Hunger Coalition simply strives to get more people using the resources already available. “We aspire for a more food-just Blaine County; that’s where our conver­sations are leading right now,” McMahon said.  2

BY THE NUMBERS 5,000

7,800

8,000

Lunches were distributed last summer through the Summer Food Program

Pounds of fruit and vegetables gleaned from local trees last year

Pounds of food produced between the Bloom Farm and the Hope Garden

4,500

19%

Bottles of formula distributed through the Infant Formula Initiative

of Blaine County accessed food through Hunger Coalition programs in 2018

1,003

7,454

Bags of pet food distributed through the Paws for Hunger program in partnership with Mountain Humane

Grocery carts of good food filled at The Hunger Coalition’s Health Food Pantry in 2018

224 Number of Volunteer for Veggies participants in 2017

323 Local children and their parents enjoyed healthy lunches, enrichment activities, and books from The Community Library through the Coalition’s Summer Food Program

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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AN ENDURING GREEN THUMB Clara Spiegel’s legacies live on BY KAREN BOSSICK

C

lara Spiegel loved to grow things. She and her friends planted the seed for The Community Library then grew it into one of the finest private libraries in the Northwest. She grew relationships between people, introducing friends to other friends she thought they ought to know at dinner parties she threw a couple times a week. And she planted and cultivated what is still thought of as one of the most beautiful gardens in Ketchum, while throwing garden parties in that garden to help raise funds for her library. “It’s fabulous—I feel like I’m living in Monet’s garden,” said Ketchum architect Susan Scovell, who lives in Clara Spiegel’s

old home at 6th and Walnut streets. “It’s an absolutely fabulous garden—just one block from City Hall. People say I’m so lucky to live here, and I agree.” Scovell traipsed along old stones winding through a carpet of flowers to a shade garden underneath aspens. Clara Spiegel did all the work, selecting the pink cosmos, purple spirea, Johnny Jumpups, orange poppies, columbine, elegant lupine and pink and magenta peonies that carpet the hill that slopes down from her home towards Bald Mountain. “She was know for her peonies,” Scovell said. Spiegel also planted crabapple trees, apple trees and a row of magnificent lilac bushes

Above and opposite: The early summer blooms in the Spiegel garden.

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that herald the bloom to come in June. “She planted all these trees,” Scovell said, looking up at Douglas fir and pines towering into the royal blue sky. “Look how much they’ve grown in 60 years.” Planting and caring for something like a Douglas fir must have been a new and exciting adventure for Clara Spiegel, since they were something she had not been familiar with growing up. She was born on Dec. 6, 1904, in Chicago where her father—a German immigrant—had a clothing business. She attended Vassar College and served in the U.S. Motor Corps during World War II. She first visited Sun Valley just three weeks after the resort opened as America’s first destination ski resort in 1936. And she returned to live permanently in 1951 following her divorce from Fred Spiegel, who oversaw the Spiegel catalog. “I had seen the ads for Sun Valley—the gorgeous, half-naked man standing on a snow slope and I thought, well ... I love to go ski. And after three days I didn’t have a headache for the first time in 20 years,” she told Michael Engl in an oral history interview done for The Community Library’s Regional History Department. Spiegel settled into a home that served as an early example of modern architecture with a living room that merged with her dining room and an open kitchen—a perfect fit for the entertaining she liked to do. “Clara took me under her wing when I came to town in the early ‘60s and she’d invite me to dinner. And it was always fascinating because seated around the table would be some interesting people like Pamela Churchill, the Olympian Hannah Fisk, Mary Fisk, and Kathleen Mortimer—Averell Harriman’s daughters,” said Terry Ring, owner of Silver Creek Outfitters, who, as a fishing guide at the time, shared Spiegel’s love of fishing. “She maintained what she called ‘the pants list,’ said longtime Valley resident Norma Douglas. “It included any man in town who had a tie and knew how to pick up his fork in the right hand. If some woman needed someone to escort her to something, she’d call Clara and ask who was on the pants list.”

PHOTOS : COURTESY SUSAN SCOVELL

localbuzz // clara spiegel


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Above: Clara Spiegel enjoyed hosting dinner parties in her Ketchum home, which, according to Silver Creek Outfitters owner Terry Ring, always included an eclectic mix of interesting people. On at lease one occasion Ernest Hemingway, left, was on the invite list. Below: Spiegel leading the way for The Community Library campaign in 1956.

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WOMEN : PHOTOGR APH COURTESY OF THE COMMUNIT Y LIBR ARY, CENTER FOR REGIONAL HISTORY, WOOD RIVER JOURNAL PHOTO MORGUE WITH HEMINGWAY: SPIEGEL COLLECTION, SPECIAL COLLECTIONS AND ARCHIVES, BOISE STATE UNIVERSIT Y

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… IN THE EARLY ‘60S [CLARA WOULD] INVITE ME TO DINNER. AND IT WAS ALWAYS FASCINATING BECAUSE SEATED AROUND THE TABLE WOULD BE SOME INTERESTING PEOPLE …” —TERRY RIN G , OWNER OF SILVER CREEK OUTFIT TERS

Dinner parties often started with a stroll through the garden, and large windows allowed dinner guests to look out onto it. “She was extremely proud of that garden,” said Douglas. “She wasn’t the sort of person to get down on her hands and knees and dig in the dirt by the time I came to know her. But she had definite ideas about the colors and types of flowers she planted.” All these years later, Spiegel’s garden takes very little maintenance, said Scovell. “Oh, I do a little weeding for sure. But, really, I’ve done nothing except maybe supplement them with hanging geraniums, and plant a few daffodils along the driveway. Mostly, I just pick the flowers and put them in a vase.” Scovell crossed the lawn and headed into an 836-square-foot cabin on Spiegel’s property, built from squared railroad ties that had been discarded by Union Pacific Railroad. Inside, she pointed out a miniature painting that Tisa McCombs had painted of “Clara’s Garden.” Then she retraced her steps from the cabin through the garden to the front lawn. She paused in front of a berm offering her house some privacy from the street. “This berm was actually created from a mound of stones. Clara and, perhaps a friend or worker, went up to the hills and came back with all these stones.” But the berm doesn’t stop peekers, she said. “People say it’s a very special garden—the best in town. I get stopped all the time with people saying how nice things are. But it’s really Clara who did it.”  2

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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body&soul

DEFINE YOUR OWN WELLBEING The 2019 Sun Valley Wellness Festival and Conference BY MCKENNA KOON

T

he Wood River community is no stranger to some of the core tenants of wellness: getting outside on a regular basis, exercising, eating well, and living a balanced life. In fact, living in an area surrounded by mountains implicitly connects us to nature in a way that living in an urban city does not. But what about the many other areas of wellness? Enter The Sun Valley Wellness Festival and Conference (SVWFC). The SVWFC is a local event that takes place each summer, this year from June 28 through July 1. The event offers an immersive and educational experience to those who want to explore their relationship with mind, body, spirit, and environmental wellbeing in new and innovative ways.
 When considering the possibility of attending a wellness event, it brings to mind the question of wellness itself. Who defines what it looks like, and why? Is it eating a vegan diet or a keto diet? Is it doing high38

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intensity workouts every morning at 5 a.m., or mediating every morning at 5 a.m.? Is it sleeping in, or watching the sunrise? 
“I believe if 100 people were asked for the definition of wellness 100 different answers would be received,” said SVWFC President and local gallery owner Andria Friesen. “While personal wellness routines and priorities matter greatly—so does exposing oneself to new information and methods, new science, and new ideas.” It can often be easy to continue doing what you have done for years as a wellness practice, without stretching beyond your comfort zone. The act of exposing oneself to new paradigms and modalities is where events such as the SVWFC become helpful. Bringing world-class thought leaders to share these new ways of thinking to Sun Valley has been the SVWFC’s calling card for 22 years. Previously, speakers have included Deepak Chopra, Elizabeth Gilbert,

Rich Roll, Michael Bernard Beckwith, Arianna Huffington, and Diana Nyad, just to name a few. 
“The audience will leave with a new awareness of purpose, opportunity, and optimism to be a force of change,” said one of this year’s speakers, Dr. Zach Bush. Bush is a triple board-certified physician focused on applying the rigor of science, the strength of humanity, and the intelligence of nature to transform the world. He has recently been working to educate the public and the agricultural community on the impact that popular farming processes are having on the human microbiome and the connection to many common illnesses. Speaking of the gut, New York Times best-selling author Dr. Steven Gundry will also lead a talk about the roles that lectins, polyphenols, and bacteria play in the human diet. His philosophy is a radical break from the traditional dietary “wisdom,” which has

PHOTOS : COURTESY SUN VALLEY WELLNESS FESIT VAL    SEAN SHERMAN : HEIDI EHALT

From left: Sasha Heinz; Sean Sherman; and Dr. Suzanne Anderson


From left: Dr. Zach Bush; Dr. Joe Dispenza Dr. Steven Gundry; and Roshi Joan Halifax.

failed so many Americans over the past few decades. Dr. Joe Dispenza, an expert on the brain, mind and human potential and bestselling author of “Becoming Supernatural: How Common People are Doing the Uncommon,” will discuss how people can rewire their brains and recondition their bodies to make lasting changes. Also regarding nutrition, Sean Sherman, an Oglala Sioux, founder of catering company The Sioux Chef, and James Beard medal winner, who has become internationally renowned in the culinary movement of indigenous foods, will discuss the health benefits of an indigenous diet and his work to educate and make these foods more accessible to the public. The full list of speakers can be found on the SVWFC website (sunvalleywellness. org), however, other speakers and workshop presenters include Dr. Jason West, Integrative Medical Physician; Dr. Suzanne Anderson, psychologist, speaker, and award-winning author; Dr. Sasha Heinz, developmental psychologist, and behavioral change expert; Barbara Coombs Lee, President of Compassion & Choices, author, and activist; David Pond, astrologer, author, and speaker; Dr. Judson Wall, a biological dentist; and Dana Stovern, a Somatic money coach. This year, the SVWFC will move its hub for daytime events to the beautiful Sun Valley Community School. But in addition to the thought-provoking

lineup of speakers, the event features interactive spaces at the Experience Hall and Movement Studio. The Movement Studio, for instance, offers a variety of ongoing movement, meditation and yoga classes. In the Experience Hall, attendees can shop for the latest in innovative wellness products, and sample services, including massage, reflexology, and intuitive readings. New this year, the Experience Hall will also feature an Insight Stage offering short, free presentations on a variety of wellness topics throughout the day. The Experience Hall is free and open to the public all weekend. There will also be live music and a film screening of “The Last Dalai Lama” with the filmmaker Mickey Lemie. After the day events are over at the Sun Valley Community School, nighttime events will move to the new Argyros Performing Arts Center on Main Street in Ketchum. Overall, the event can expose attendees to new ways of thinking and expand their relationship to personal wellbeing across the board. Who knows, you may even walk away with a new comfort zone to step through next year.  2

The 2019 Sun Valley Wellness Festival is June 28 - July 1 at the Sun Valley Communiy School and the Argyros Performing Arts Center. In addition to speakers, the event features interactive spaces at the Experience Hall and Movement Studio.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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body&soul // buddhism

BUDDHISM IN THE WOOD RIVER VALLEY Traditional Buddhist prayer flags are used to promote peace, compassion, strength, and wisdom.

A spiritual thread that runs from the area’s early days to the present BY DICK DORWORTH

T

hough never mainstream, Buddhism has been an undercurrent of Wood River Valley culture since the late 19th century. The first mining claim in the Valley was filed in 1865, and significant numbers of the workers in those early mines were Chinese immigrants who brought both Buddhist practice and textbooks with them. As happened throughout Western America, Buddhist thought and practice helped the immigrants endure the racial prejudice, discrimination, and violence they encountered in America. The core of Buddhist practice is sitting meditation, and the current popular discipline of mindfulness meditation grew from Buddhist roots. Despite racial prejudice against its Asian practitioners, Buddhism seeped into the melting pot of 19th century America, including the writings of Whitman, Thoreau, and Emerson. Chicago’s The 40

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World Parliament of Religions in 1893 introduced Buddhism to mainstream America. After World War II and into the 1950s and 1960s, numerous Buddhist teachers immigrated to America and established Buddhist centers, particularly in the West. They included Shunryu Suzuki Roshi in San Francisco, Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche in Boulder and Taizan Maezumi Roshi in Los Angeles. Those teachers and many others influenced the rebellious counterculture of that time exemplified by Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Gary Snyder, and Ram Dass. A 1970 Time Magazine article about that movement noted: “Of the many forms of Buddhism, the one best known in the West is Zen. Its guiding principles of inward meditation versus doctrine, of emphasis on the visceral and spontaneous as against the cerebral and structured, of inspiration rather than linear ‘logic,’ were seized on by the early beatniks, taken up by many of the young today, and were incorporated into the mystique of America’s counterculture.” Buddhism is alive and well today in the Wood River Valley, its most visible presence the many Tibetan prayer flags seen on and

in houses, in yards, in trees (sometimes in the backcountry) and in the back windows of cars, vans and trailers. In 2007, 10,000 people attended a talk in Hailey by His Holiness The Dalai Lama. Buddhism is also present in the daily practice, work, and right intention of many Valley locals. Mary Ann Chubb was introduced to the teachings of Thich Nhat Hahn from the Beginners Mind Sangha in Boise in 1994. Her husband, Jim, practiced Buddhism with Trungpa Rinpoche in Colorado before his marriage, and after kept a simpler sitting practice. Mary Ann became a student of Tsoknyi Rinpoche and Anam Thubten in 2006. Since then Mary Ann has been among the leading local practitioners, teachers, organizers, and supporters of Buddhism. Janet Abromeit moved to Hailey in 1994, the same year she joined the Institute of Noetic Sciences, for which the membership included a book by Buddhist monk and author Jack Kornfield, “A Path With A Heart.” It changed her life. Today, she is a member of California’s Spirit Rock Meditation Center where she frequently attends retreats. She hosts meditation groups at her home in Hailey as well as being


involved in the organization of larger and longer retreats in the area. By the time Kelley Weston first visited the mountains of Idaho in 1978 he had been practicing Tibetan Buddhism at the Naropa Institute in Boulder, Colo., under Trungpa Rinpoche since high school. He moved to Hailey in 1985 and in the mid1990s became an aikido student of Myohei Genshin Sensei who was also a Soto Zen Monk. Weston became a devoted follower of both aikido and Zen, and he credits Myohei with bringing him back to his Buddhist life path. For a few years in the 1990s Myohei’s aikido studio also served as a gathering spot for Zen meetings and retreats that Weston attended. Now Kelley belongs to the Upaya Institute and Zen Center in Santa Fe, New Mex., and he practices “engaged Buddhism” with involvement in several environmental and social causes, including Western Watersheds. Ann Down moved to Ketchum in 1994 after her children were grown as a retreat from a full if hectic California life. She built a log home with the philosophy of “Kill nothing living, use nothing toxic.” It was described in a Log Homes article as “Peaceful and sunny … a mecca for her four grandchildren.” “This home is peaceful,” Down explained. “You can put your feet up and not worry.” A couple of years later a friend gave Down a copy of “Cutting Through Spiritual Materialism,” by Chogyam Trungpa, and she was immediately drawn to Buddhism and realized she had built her home on Buddhist principles without being aware of those precepts. Since then, she has practiced “engaged Buddhism” as a volunteer, sponsor and donor of works that support the welfare of children and the environment. She is a close friend and supporter of Roshi Joan Halifax, Founder, Abbot, and Head Teacher of Upaya Institute and Zen Center in New Mexico. Chubb, Abromeit, artist Abby Grosvenor, and psychotherapist Diane Crist have been instrumental in organizing Buddhist retreats at nearby Soldier Mountain Resort, Lake Perkins, and various smaller venues in Hailey and Ketchum. Crist and the author started the longest standing [sic] sitting group in the Valley in 1992, which still meets once a week in Ketchum.  2 SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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nex enlife LIFE ON THE FLY With a trout on the line, the world became James Carlin’s oyster BY JENNIFER LIEBRUM

JamesCarlin shows off one of his catches.

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an a 16-year-old, fly-tying prodigy apply his skills and hard-earned patience to save the environment? When James Carlin was 8, his father introduced him to fly fishing on the Big Wood River. When he was 11, he got his own gear and was hooked up with Guy Robins from Lost River Outfitters to take his knowledge up a notch. Robins is an internationally-known guide. In their hours together on the river and tying flies, Robins took long memory walks through his own childhood as a budding 9-year-old fisherman in Scotland and over his adventures fishing across the globe. He nurtured a natural, but untapped skill set from the youth’s soul. “We talked about everything, from fishing to conservation,” Robins told me recently. “He’s determined and thoughtful and so passionate about the sport. And, he’s exceptional at it.” A quiet, detail-oriented eye made Carlin particularly attune to how the river behaved and how to use that understanding to lure a passing fish to to meet his line. His first tie of a zebra nymph got him a rainbow trout. Carlin became like a mother on a mission to graduate her baby to solid foods. He began crafting the fly menu to exactly what he learned his scaly pursuits would want to take a chance on. “I’m naturally inquisitive and love solving problems,” Carlin explained. “I mean a lot of the flies, at first, I was just messing around with what looked cool, and then I created them to what helped me personally.” “James is incredibly creative and his ideas are limitless,” Robins said. “But anglers love his flies because they really work.”

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

THEATER CAMP

PHOTOS : COURTESY JAMES CARLIN

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Carlin’s signature fly called the DB zebra nymph has given fisherman far and wide the beginning of many a fish tale. He started his own business, Bigwood Flies, and Robins began looking for ways to integrate Carlin into the broader angling community. “I didn’t know where it could go, but I could see the passion,” Robins said. “It makes your job so much easier.” Carlin got attention wherever he fished. His generosity with his experience and stewardship of the fish and surrounding lands distinguished him. In 2016, he was included in an invitation-only derby held by Idaho 2 Fly, a nonprofit that hosts excursions and competitions for men treated for cancer. Carlin was the youngest, “by 30 years,” Robins recalled, yet managed to place third among 60 seasoned anglers. “He blew the competition away.” “I fell in love with this world of competitive fishing,” Carlin recalled. “And

PHOTOS : COURTESY JAMES CARLIN

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A few of James’ flies, including, at top, his first commercial fly, the DB Nymph.

then we discovered this new, super efficient technique of Euro nymphing, and, the USA Youth Fly Fishing team. . . I found a whole new way of looking at the water.” Carlin and Robins attended some clinics and expos nationally, and then decided to hold their own. Twenty kids were invited and stayed at the Sun Valley Community School dorms. “He knew the water really well, and he was guiding all these coaches,” Robins remembered. Carlin worked that summer with Ketchum’s Silver Creek Outfitters, learning and building his brand. By the second clinic, “I had so much more experience that coaches invited me to the national championships,” Carlin said. “I went there without high expectations and knowing I had a lot to learn. But, in the end, I finished first, and was asked to join the team.” “They saw he was a leader,” Robins said. “And compassionate, kind and polite. He’s a great, great kid.” Now, “I am part of a selective group of 15 that goes to different countries to compete in the world fly fishing championships.” He will travel to the Czech Republic this summer. “I couldn’t have done any of it without Guy,” he paused to give his mentor credit. “He taught me how to tie my first fly and everything he knows.” Now living in Malibu, a high school sophomore, he’s miles from fly fishing and has founded a business club, taken up driving, surfing, basketball and homework. Still, his mind is not land-locked. “I’m working on adding apparel to the fly line and writing a manual about Euro nymphing.” And from his environmental defense mode has sprung the blueprint for a collapsible water bottle. “We wondered how we can minimize the bulk and prevent people from having to buy plastic ones, so we came up with a collapsible size. We are looking for investors now.”  2

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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etoutthere ADVOCATES FOR THE TRAILS Wood River Trails Coalition adjusts its mission to engage multi-users

P

eople come to the Wood River Valley for the trails. They bring their bikes, their running shoes, horses and dogs to enjoy the miles and miles of of maintained trails from Deer Creek to the West side of the Pioneers and then some. To be exact, the Ketchum Ranger District (KRD) is responsible for maintaining over 400 miles of trails for a variety of recreational users. Half of the trails are open to motorized recreationalists, and all but eight miles are available to mountain bike riders. All of it is accessible to hikers and horseback riders.

For all of those miles of joyus single track, solitary afternoons and hard earned glorious views, the ideal KRD trail crew is made up of just six people. “This year we were able to meet our goal [with trail crew hiring],” said Justin Blackstead, Trail Crew Supervisor for the KRD. “ But with fluctuating budgets it’s a crapshoot on what the crew looks like year to year.” The trail crew costs around $100,000 each season, according to Blackstead, including everything from wages to supplies. This year

the crew received less than $40,000 from the Forest Service. That money was used to match Idaho Department of Parks and Recreations grants to make a viable season. “The hardest part is that we have to apply for these grants every year,” said Blackstead, “and they are very competitive, so we never have a solid funding source. It’s really stressful having to look at your crew and not know if they will have a job the next summer.” Somebody who has an intimate knowledge of the stresses of grant writing and the laborious work of trail crew is Sara Gress.

The Ketchum Ranger District trail crew, which is responsible for maintaining over 400 miles of trails, comprises just six people.

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PHOTOS : COURTESY KETCHUM R ANGER DISTRICT

BY SARA LINVILLE


Gress worked trails for three seasons and admitted that she was “fricken exhausted all the time.” Except she didn’t say fricken. Now, she has taken on the role as the new executive director of what used to be the Wood River Bicycle Coalition and is being renamed the Wood River Trails Coalition (WRTC). The nonprofit was created as such by Greg Martin, husband of famed endurance athlete Rebecca Rusch, in 2011. Its main goals have always been to organize volunteer trail work and to create a robust and reliable funding stream for the KRD trail crew through donations. Why rename the organization? “Because semantics matter,” Gress explained. “Changing our name will hopefully bring people in, broaden our reach and create a sense of pride and ownership [for the trails] in our Valley. We want to be an advocate for the trails. Not just a single group.” “We have a lot of trails, used by a lot of different users,” explained Chris Leman, who has been the Blaine County Recreation District Trails Coordinator since 2014. “And we’ve got to get along out there.” Leman works closely with federal organizations doing trail work and community outreach. He moved to the Valley in 1989 and immediately fell in love with the trails, just like many others. “Trail use increased like crazy in the early 1990s,” Leman said. “Mountain bikers were pretty new, and it took some getting used to in terms of sharing.” Even with the added stress of a new demographic of trail users, Leman feels that concerned trail users and the Ketchum Ranger District were lucky. They got in front of the issues by early on spreading the message of trail etiquette. “We still operate on a shared use approach versus a separate use,” said Leman. “Perhaps in the future that will change. But, thankfully, we don’t have that many pressures yet, and it forces us to get along.” The advice from new WRTC board member Katelyn Berman on getting along is simple: “Be nice.” Berman is an experienced horseback rider and packer and a mountain biker. Two years ago, she and two other women completed a 900-mile journey on horseback from Astoria, Ore., to Stanley, Idaho. They called it the Ride for Redd to raise awareness of a dangerously declining salmon population.

KRD receives money for workers’ wages and assets like this pack mule from the U.S. Forest Service and from a variety of grants.

Her hope for her role in the WRTC is to reach out to the “multi-demographic user” and create a general understanding of respectfulness. “The WRTC is a culture building organization promoting community ownership,” Berman said. “It has the potential to be really cool. But if it’s just you me and the board thinking it’s cool, then nothing will come of it.” All in all, the Wood River is still a relatively remote destination, and users still have the privilege of accessing a wealth of trails to disappear down—whether for days or just an afternoon—in any way they choose, without having to think about how that trail got there and what it takes to keep it in good shape. “It’s important for people to understand this rebranding of the WRTC by having boots on the ground in spreading the word,” said Cameron Llyod, content manager at Club Ride Apparel and WRTC board member for several years. “Because when people know that their money would be used to maintain and build a trail, they are more than willing to contribute. That’s the community we live in.”  2

GET INVOLVED Visit woodrivertrailscoalition.org to learn about upcoming volunteer trail work nights this summer, other events, or to make a donation.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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Ground Breaking Orthopedics to Small Animal Veterinary Services from daycare and boarding, Eastern Medicine and Physical Rehabilitation, Wellness and Internal Medicine. MAIN HOSPITAL 106 S Clear Creek Industrial Park Rd Ketchum, Idaho 83340 (Two miles south of Ketchum)

(208) 726-7777 DOWNTOWN CLINIC 831 Warm Springs Rd Ketchum, Idaho 83340 (Across from Grumpy’s)

(208) 726-7790 svanimal.com

BELLEVUE HOSPITAL 712 N Main Street Bellevue, Idaho 83313 (Across from Silver Creek Inn)

(208) 788-4004 sawtoothanimalcenter.com


COOL DIPS IN OUR BACKYARD Where to take a nice summer swim BY KAREN BOSSICK

Above: Sun Valley Lake and Dollar Mountain

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sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

E

very summer John Abell holds court over what may be one of Sun Valley’s bestkept secrets. That would be Sun Valley Lake, which offers a little beach in the mountains and a respite from hot summer days just a stroll away from the Sun Valley Lodge. “It’s the only real lake in the area, especially since Hulen Pond got filled with sediment,” he said, “We’re offering more and more ways for people to enjoy it every summer, and I’ve seen some real multigenerational bonding experiences take place there, such as those between young children and grandparents.” Sun Valley Lake is located between Old Dollar Road and Dollar Road with a spillway on the Dollar Road side. Fed every spring by run-off from Trail Creek, it offers in-your-face views of Dollar Mountain and Bald Mountain with plenty of that royal blue Sun Valley sky above. Sun Valley Resort offers a variety of activities from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. during the summer, usually beginning the last week of June through Labor Day.

There are six paddleboats operable via foot pedals, as well as canoes, which are big attractions for families. And last year the resort introduced flat water kayaks, which were a big hit with the teens. “We get a lot of traffic from Salt Lake City—it’s so hot there they come up here to cool off. And during symphony season a lot of people like to rent a boat and take it out on the lake while listening to the symphony rehearse in the afternoon,” said Abell, a former whitewater rafting guide who has outfitted guests in lifejackets, steadied their boats as they get in and out, and offered pointers for eight years. The lake is a big draw for groups, such as those who come to the Utah Bar Association conference and families here for ice skating camps. It also attracts a number of local groups, including Sun Valley Resort’s Adventure Camp, Boy Scouts, and even day cares. In the evening, volleyball players take up residence on the beach, while family reunions picnic under the trees.

COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORT

getoutthere // swimming holes


PHOTO: K AREN BOSSICK

“The lake is about six to seven feet deep but we don’t recommend swimming because there’s no lifeguard,” said Abell. “And, even though it’s pretty shallow, it doesn’t warm up until August. We have had a lot of people wanting to paddleboard out there—we ask them not to do it during our operating hours to keep them from getting in the way of our guests.” While it may be the only bona fide lake in the area, Sun Valley Lake is not the only swimming hole. A favorite is the Big Rock, also known as the Church Rock, on the Big Wood River behind the Presbyterian Church of the Big Wood. There’s a deep pool and picturesque eddy there that can be reached by taking a path between the church and the skate park or another path that starts on the south side of the Warm Springs Road bridge. “I have swum in that swimming hole a number of times but always in the summer when the water was deep but not too high or fast,” said Hailey resident Ed Northen. “It’s fun to jump off of the rocks into the water. And I have also observed people floating down the river in inner tubes or on rafts from higher up and using this spot as a takeout point. “But people using this swimming hole should be aware there is current and, when the water is high, a very strong current.” A little further south, jumpers congregate along the bike path, jumping 20 feet from one of two Pegram truss railroad bridges into the Big Wood River as it makes a sharp turn just north of St. Luke’s Wood River hospital. There is a footpath to the river’s edge for those who prefer not to jump. Further south still in Hailey there are some nice swimming holes alongside the Draper Preserve, accessible by tromping through tall trees to little alcoves along the river. A particularly nice swimming hole is near the south part of the preserve, best reached by starting at Heagle Park and walking north. There are two more deep pools a little further south in Colorado Gulch. “There’s a real nice deep hole with a gravelly beach where the old bridge is in Colorado Gulch,” said Ryan Santo, project coordinator at the Wood River Land Trust. “And there’s another just a little upriver. I’ve fished these holes quite a bit and you always see people cooling off in them when it gets hot.” Northen cautions people to watch their children any time they’re around water. “And

I think it is important to remind people that, while access to the Church Rock hole is public, the lawn and grounds belong to the Big Wood Church so they should respect the property and pick up their trash and dog poop,” he said. “Also, if someone is fishing when they arrive, ask if you can swim. Don’t just jump in. Respect the rights of others who use the water for something other than swimming.”  2

Boulder Lake

DAY TRIPS Want a lake with altitude that’s not too far away? Try Boulder Lake atop Trail Creek Summit, or Baker Lake.

Boulder Lake

This is a gem of a lake ringed by jagged peaks, among them, Devil’s Bedstead. To get there, turn off Trail Creek Road onto Wildhorse Creek Road and drive 7.7 miles to the trailhead, which is located in a primitive campground. You’ll have to cross a wide Wildhorse Creek to begin the 3.8-mile trek up switchbacks into a slot canyon so it’s best if you wait until the end of July or even August.

Baker Lake

This lake is much easier to get to and not as long of a hike. Drive north of Ketchum on Highway 75 for 15 miles and turn west onto Baker Creek Road. Follow this to the end where a trailhead and restrooms are located. Follow a trail just under two miles to the lake. The lake offers catch and release fishing as well as swimming.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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getoutthere // railroad ranch

A ‘REMARKABLE FISHERY’ “The Ranch” of the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River

T

he Railroad Ranch on the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River is endowed with one of the most tranquil, yet wild confluences of natural beauty in the western region. “The Ranch,” discovered in the late 19th century and pioneered in the early 20th century by the Guggenheim, Harriman, and Jones families, is deep in history and beauty alike. The region is truly an outdoorsman’s playground and trout bum’s paradise. In the eastern corner of Idaho, the thinly populated, yet cultured town of Island Park rests at 6,290 feet, making it the highest city in the state of Idaho. In the base of the Henry’s Fork Caldera, the area’s high elevation, relatively flat ground and abnormally high precipitation levels provide the geographical context for what becomes a beautiful natural expression. The river itself flows from the Island Park Reservoir, through the “Box Canyon,” and is eventually ushered in to the sacred 8½-mile 52

sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

stretch known as The Railroad Ranch. Conserved within The Harriman State Park, The Ranch fuses a traditional tailwater fishery signified by the cold-water release from the bottom of the reservoir with a serene spring creek fishery like the Silver Creek Preserve. With a consistent width of approximately 300 feet, a minimal gradient change, and clean, practically rock-free substrate, the river’s slow, flat, uncontained nature creates the open spaces needed for massive rainbow trout to exercise their acrobatic nature. Finally, the cold, nutrient-rich water provides an incubator for prolific aquatic insect production, thus completing the structure of a truly unparalleled “fish factory.” There is one man who has religiously devoted 36 seasons fishing arguably the world’s most selective rainbow trout. John McDaniel, an Emeritus Professor in Anthropology at Washington and Lee, has meticulously documented each of the

If you plan to fly fish “The Ranch,” reach out to John McDaniel through the Trout Hunter Fly Shop at (208) 558-9900. Trout Hunter also offers accommodations, a full service kitchen and the iconic Last Chance Bar & Grill. A more adventurous guiding option would be with Colton Schofield through the Henry’s Fork Angler at (208) 558-7525. You can always expect a story with this guide. You may contact the Harriman State Park at (888) 922-6743 to book a reservation for historic Railroad Ranch tours and Dry Ridge Horseback Tours for riding at (208) 558-7433.

PHOTO: BRYAN GREGSON PHOTOGR APHY

SEE IT YOURSELF

BY BRENT LAWSON


Photos: Ray J. Gadd

PHOTO: BRYAN GREGSON PHOTOGR APHY

13,233 hours he has invested on the 8½ rant owner. But after moving to Boise miles. The guide has landed 2,001 trout of in 2002 for a relationship, he discov17ered inches or longer (he doesn’t count fish there were no Himalayan restauunder 17 inches). A little over 94 percent rants. That forced him to learn to cook, of since the fish were caught with dry in(1,987) Kathmandu, he always went flies while the other roughly 6 percent were out to eat. taken sight a technique in which Afternymphing, getting a civil engineering from Boise in 2010 thedegree angler precisely castsState a nymph (wetand fly management training from the Uniimitation), with no indicator, to spots in the versity realized river whereofhePhoenix, or she canShrestha see the trout below he preferred business to engineering. the water’s surface. He went toopinion, Grand Junction, ColoIn McDaniel’s “What speaks rado, to learn the restaurant business to the remarkable fishery is that no less from a friend who owns the Nepal than 706, or 33.6 percent of the fish were Restaurant. at least“I20worked inches in Thethree aspects forlength. him for months that capture the sheer forroutinely no charge,” heanglers said. “Iare: learned his difficulty ofand the dry fly me fishing, recipes, he let copythe hisbeauty menu.” of the Shrestha river, and the psychological calmness opened Mount Everest Momo by Café 2013 at 2144 S. Broadconferred theinwater.” way The cozy dining Due Avenue. to the tranquil nature of theroom wateris decorated with pictures of the Himalaand the abundant insect production, and Kathmandu. His former home theyas trout express highly selective feeding in Nepal is remarkably like Boise in size, geography and outdoor activities, he said. Shrestha, visibly tired after closing recently for lunch, not only runs the restaurant but also waits tables. He’s open for lunch and dinner six days WHAT SPEAKS a week and Sundays by reservation. TO THE Dinners are busiest, he said. “Most people like to come here REMARKABLE with their families,” he said. “It’s more FISHERY IS of a dinner gathering place.” His wife Raji helps THAT NO LESSin the restaurant at night and works as a preschool THAN 706, ORhave a daughter, teacher by day. They Luniba, and Shrestha 33.6 PERCENThas two daughters—Jyoti and Aslan—from a previOF FISH ous THE marriage. Besides bringing his country’s WERE AT cuisine to Boise, Shrestha indulges his LEAST 20 by helping customers love for Nepal arrange trips there and introducing INCHES IN them to his travel agent brother. And LENGTH.” he hopes in two to three years to have — J his O H Nown M C Dtravel A N I E L business up and running to take people to Nepal, India and Tibet, and perhaps arrange mountain climbing trips. As part of Boise’s growing internaOpposite page: tional community, Shrestha also works The “millionaires as of a translator for St. Alphonsus Repool” the Railroad Section of Center. He mostly helps gional Medical thewith Henry’s Fork. Bhutanese refugee popua small Right: McDaniel lation living takes a break at in Boise. He employs three theBhutanese “islands” of refugees in his kitchen, who theon Ranch section.blustery spring day are a recent responsible for the aromas of delicious Indian spices—cumin and curries—

behavior. Thus, most fly-fishermen will wait and “hunt” for actively feeding trout from the banks of the river. It is common to see fishermen sitting, kneeling or stealthily walking the banks, patiently resisting the urge to cast in order to find the active fish. This style of fishing cultivates a more social experience in which anglers will often exchange information, hatch observations, and fish tales. Thus, despite the wonderful angling opportunities in the greater Wood River Valley, my call to action in 2019 is to take the four-hour drivestyle to noodles a “backyard” Top:short Lamb Chau Chau, Tibetian with lamb river that hasMiddle: routinely drawn anglers from and vegetables. Chicken Vindaloo, boneless chicken cookedofinthe a spicy sauce with potatoes. all corners world. Whether a fly Bottom: Mix Momo, vegetables/chicken/pork/yak, steamed fisherman, naturalist, outdoorsman, or one dumplings served with a mild or spicy tomato sauce. who recognizes the soul shaking effect of the natural world, get out, visit, and, as Silas Eccles described to E.H. Harriman in 1908, “Camp out in places that are romantic, wild, and delightful …”  2

SAWTOOTH MOUNTAIN GUIDES

DEDICATED TO YOUR ADVENTURE.

Rock Climbing — Hiking — Family Adventures Day & Multi-Day Trips

SAWTOOTHGUIDES.COM

news profiles arts music business events outdoors getaways dining fitness family wafting into the dining room. Shrestha’s Momo café, with its mix of cuisines, is an example of how Boise continues to benefit as more people from other countries move here, share their food and culture and invite the community to know them and help them succeed. SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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Explore the Treasure Valley

territory-mag.com SUMMER 2017

TERRITORY–MAG.COM


getoutthere // calendar

SUN VALLEY ON ICE July 4 – Aug. 31, 2019 The Sun Valley Resort brings worldchampion and Olympic-medalist ice skaters to the Sun Valley Ice Rink every Saturday night from the Fourth until Labor Day Weekend. This year’s lineup includes Nathan Chen, Madison Hubbell and Zach Donohue, Alysa Liu and Ryan Bradley, Ashley Wagner, and Jason Brown, among others. sunvalley.com/things-to-do/ice-shows SVCA Annual Wine Auction

SF BALLET July 5-7, 2019

KETCHUM FARMERS’ MARKET

KETCH’EM ALIVE

June 11 – Oct. 1, 2019

The local’s favorite concert series, “Ketch’em Alive,” is every Tuesday evening from 7 until 9 p.m. at the Forest Service Park in downtown Ketchum. There will be dancing, music, and a fun filled community party. Picnics are encouraged; food and drink will be sold in the park as well.

Every Tuesday, Valley vendors offer seasonally available and locally grown and raised fruits, vegetables, eggs, sheep, goat, and cow cheeses, organic cuts of beef, chicken and lamb, fresh herbs, plant starts for your garden, and prepared foods. This year the market is being held at the base of River Run, Bald Mountain. 2:30 p.m. - 6 p.m. wrfarmersmarket.org.

HAILEY FARMERS’ MARKET June 13 – Oct. 3, 2019 Every Thursday, vendors offer a great variety of fresh produce, prepared foods and crafts. Producers offer fruits, vegetables and flowers seasonally available, honey, cheese, eggs, meats, baked goods, artisan breads, pies and other desserts, as well some crafts. 2 p.m. - 6:30 p.m. wrfarmersmarket.org.

OUTERBIKE June 21-23, 2019 This three-day bike demo event is a partnership of Sun Valley Resort and Western Spirit Cycling. Enjoy shuttled rides, demos, and social events. outerbike.com

June 25 – Aug. 27, 2019

SUN VALLEY WELLNESS FESTIVAL June 28 – July 1, 2019 This event has become a beloved annual community tradition that attracts attendees from around the world. This year’s speakers include Dr. Joe Dispenza, Roshi Joan Halifax, Roger McNamee, and Dr. David Hepburn, among others. sunvalleywellness.org

GALLERY WALKS July – December 2019

KETCHUM ARTS FESTIVAL July 12-14, 2019 The Ketchum Arts Festival brings together over 100 artists from Idaho to display their wares at the lovely Festival Meadows along Sun Valley Road. The three-day event offers a wide variety of arts and crafts styles, food, music, and a children’s activity tent. ketchumartsfestival.com

SBG GARDEN TOUR July 13, 2019 The Sawtooth Botanical Garden will host its 24th Annual Garden Tour from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. The tour will include private gardens located in the Valley Club, Zinc Spur, Starweather, and Deer Creek. sbgarden.org

The Sun Valley Gallery Association hosts monthly gallery walks in which the public is invited to share wine and conversation with artists and their work. This summer’s walks are July 5, Aug. 2, Aug. 30, Nov. 29, and Dec. 27. svgalleries.org

MICHAEL FRANTI & SPEARHEAD

HAILEY’S FOURTH OF JULY FESTIVITIES

June 24, 2019

July 4, 2019

As part of the Sun Valley Center for the Arts Summer Concert Series, Michael Franti performs with reggae royalty Ziggy Marley. River Run Lodge. 7 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org

Each year, Hailey is host to the exciting Sawtooth Rangers Rodeo (July 2-4), Days of the Old West Parade down Main Street with colorful entries and plenty of horses,

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Ballet Sun Valley will bring the inter­ nationally acclaimed San Francisco Ballet to the Sun Valley Pavilion for two distinct and widely anticipated performances. balletsunvalley.com

sunvalleymag.com  //  SUMMER 2019

SVCA ANNUAL WINE AUCTION July 18-20, 2019 With its Annual Wine Auction, the Sun Valley Center for the Arts celebrates wine while raising money to support the arts and arts education. The three-day event includes the intimate and elegant Vintner Dinners, the Wine Auction Gala, and the very popular Vine and Dine lawn party. Some of the best wines in the world will be available at auction. sunvalleycenter.org

SUN VALLEY WRITERS’ CONFERENCE July 20-23, 2019 This four-day literary event offers keynote speakers, intimate breakout sessions, and plenty of relaxed gathering time to share ideas and experiences. Expected to attend this year are Martin Amis, Dave Eggers, Carl Hiaasen, Barry Lopez, Alice McDermott, Emily Ruskovich, and Vendela Vida, among others. The conference is celebrating its 25th year in Sun Valley. svwc.org

NATHANIEL RATELIFF July 24, 2019 Nathaniel Rateliff and The Night Sweats perform with special guest Lucius at the River Run Lodge at the base of Bald Mountain. 7 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org

SUN VALLEY TOUR DE FORCE July 25-27, 2019 The Sun Valley Tour de Force features some of the world’s fastest cars and drivers as they attempt to reach speeds of 200 mph or higher on Phantom Hill, north of Ketchum. Additional events include the scenic Huckleberry Drive, a hosted lunch and technical inspection, the Tour de Force car show in downtown Ketchum, and the Cars and Comedy fundraiser. sunvalleytourdeforce.com

STANDHOPE ULTRA CHALLENGE July 25-27, 2019

Michael Franti & Spearhead

This ultra race challenges runners to 30 or 60 kilometers in the Pioneer Mountains outside Sun Valley. Runners reach 11,000 feet and pass alongside Goat Lake, the highest lake in Idaho. standhopeultrachallenge.com

MICHAEL FR ANTI & SVCA ANNUAL WINE AUCTION : COURTESY SVCA

SUMMER

2019EVENTS

a shoot-out melodrama, a spectacular fireworks display, pancake breakfasts, lots of live music, antique markets and the new Draper Preserve River Festival. haileyidaho.com


GALENA GRINDER July 27, 2019 Join this sometimes grueling but alwaysfun mountain bike race held at Galena Lodge. This race is part of the Knobby Tire Series. Expect a lot of flow and singletrack trails, with some stout climbing and great views. There is a marathon event, as well as a cross-country race. 7:30 a.m. knobbytireseries.com

SUN VALLEY MUSIC FESTIVAL July 29 – Aug. 22

R ACE PHOTO: COURTESY STANDHOPE ULTR A CHALLENGE

The Sun Valley Music Festival provides world-class symphonic music in the stunning Sun Valley Pavilion and adjoining lawns. This year’s gala performance features jazz artist Branford Marsalis. svmusicfestival.org

JACKSON BROWN IN CONCERT Aug. 5, 2019 Rock and Roll Hall-of-Famer Jackson Brown performs in the Sun Valley Center Concert Series at River Run Lodge. 7:30 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org

SUN VALLEY ARTS & CRAFTS FESTIVAL

Standhope Ultra Challenge

Aug. 9-11, 2019 The Sun Valley Arts and Crafts Festival, now under the direction of Art Daves, draws top artists from around the country for three days of open-air exhibitions. In addition to the art, there will be food, music, and artist demonstrations. sunvalleyartsandcraftsfestival.com

KILLEBREWTHOMPSON MEMORIAL

CONCERT FOR CANCER RESEARCH

Aug. 14-17, 2019

Former Journey lead vocalist Steve Augeri will be performing at the River Run Lodge as part of the Killebrew-Thompson Memorial. killebrewthompsonmemorial.com

For four decades, the KillebrewThompson Memorial has gathered hundreds of like-minded individuals, including celebrities, members of Congress, professional athletes, corporate sponsors, and participants with one goal in mind: find a cure for cancer. Participants enjoy a two-day golf tournament, an auction gala dinner, and a benefit concert. killebrewthompsonmemorial.com

Aug. 17, 2019

WOOD RIVER VALLEY STUDIO TOUR Aug. 17-18, 2019 The seventh annual studio tour celebrates art and artists at work with tours of local studios, lectures, and workshops. The

event is free of charge. 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. wrvstudiotour.org

WAGON DAYS Aug. 30 – Sept. 1, 2019 Considered by many to be the biggest non-motorized parade in the country, the Wagon Days parade and celebration in Ketchum honors the culture and lifestyle in the Wood River Valley before the advent of automobiles and railroads. Enjoy the parade, boutiques, arts and crafts, and a pancake breakfast. wagondays.net

SUMMER 2019   //  sunvalleymag.com

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THE

BIG

B OAT S NAVIGATING 3,000 POUNDS

OF GEAR DOWN THE MIDDLE FORK OF THE SALMON BY KIT T DOUCET TE

CHRIS LENTZ, SWEEP BOAT DRIVER FOR FAR AND AWAY ADVENTURES, STEERS “LAYLA” INTO PISTOL CREEK RAPID.


young couple stands on the bank above the Boundary Creek put-in for the famed Middle Fork of the Salmon in the River of No Return Wilderness. Pointing at a large, heavily laden boat with enormous pontoons piled high with gear bags, camp supplies, coolers, and cooking equipment. Two long arms jut incongruously out in front of the bow and behind the stern with oddly shaped wooden paddles at the end of each. “What is that thing?” one of them asks. “That’s a sweep boat,” the friendly guide replies as a man jumps nimbly onto the boat and springs over numerous gear bags and coolers. They watch as he adjusts his wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses over a deeply tanned face, puts on a pair of heavyduty leather work gloves and grabs one of the large arms with each hand. There’s the faintest hint of a smile on his face as he barks instructions at the other guides from on top of the lumbering behemoth. With a certain amount of reverent celebration, the rest of the guide crew help push the giant sweep boat into the current, wishing the captain luck with a series of hoots and salutes. “I’ve never seen anything like it,” the couple says in unison as the captain begins to dance a subtle two-step around the boat’s small wooden platform, wielding the giant arms with precision and grace as he eases the boat slowly into the current. “Well, that’s because the only place sweep boats exist are right here in Idaho on the [Middle Fork of the] Salmon River,” the guide explains, wishing the sweep captain a smooth run through “Murph’s Hole,” a rapid less than a mile downstream that has flipped more than one of these giant sweep boats. He continues: “It’s actually because of sweep boats that this wilderness area and the [Main] Salmon River became known as ‘The River of No Return.’ Nowadays, there are only about 35 sweep boat captains in the entire world, and they all work right here on the Middle Fork.”

P H OTO C O U R T E SY FA R A N D AWAY A DV E N T U R E S

A

In the mid-late19th century, mining was the main industry in the rugged terrain surrounding the Salmon River. With no roads, the only way to get supplies to the remote mining camps and towns along the river was either by packhorses over extremely difficult and treacherous trails, or by boat down the river. Lumber was in high demand, but due to the Salmon River’s many twists, turns and rapids, simply floating logs downstream was impossible. In time, men with experience on the Mississippi River came into the area and introduced flat-bottomed boats capable of carrying extremely heavy loads with shallow drafts. These original sweep boats were called scows. They were large boats with flat bottoms built entirely out of wood. Typically around 30 feet long and 8 or 9 feet wide with 4-foot sides, the scows were designed to transport food and supplies along with mining equipment down the swift moving Salmon River from the end of the road through the jagged 5,000-foot canyon. The boats were controlled, or driven, by a long “sweep” on each end of the boat and were capable of carrying several tons of cargo. Two men, standing at either end of the boat operated the sweeps in tandem to maneuver the scow down the river. Once these boats reached their destination, whether that was the small town of Riggins, Idaho, or a mining camp along the banks of the river, they were quickly disassembled, and the lumber was sold and reused to build cabins or any other structure or equipment necessary. Thus, once these uniquely shaped supply boats headed down the river, they never returned, and the moniker, “River of No Return,” was born. The most famous sweep scow boat captain from those early years was a man named Harry Guleke. Known as one of the best boatmen the Salmon River has ever seen, he completed as many as 200 hundred trips down the River of No Return beginning with his first trip in 1896. He once navigated a sweep boat all the way from Idaho to

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

57


NED PERRY, SWEEP BOAT DRIVER FOR OARS, FINDS THE LINE JUST BELOW THE BOUNDARY CREEK LAUNCH.


Middle Fork’s 100 miles, there’s continuous current the entire time. That’s what allows the boats to maintain what we call ‘sweepage.’ When you’re moving they gain mobility. The faster you’re moving the more mobile you are.” Alone at the helm, the sweep captain “saws” his sweep arms back and forth, using them as rudders and oars, being careful to avoid rocks and the large, gurgling, whirlpool filled eddies and their upstream currents that will leave the boat spinning in endless circles or crashing violently into a cliff wall. It’s a difficult job that requires strength, finesse, balance, and coordination, along with an intimate knowledge of the river and hydrodynamics. Every water level presents different challenges, and the stakes are always high. One miscalculation or mistake and all the gear, food, tents, sleeping bags, water and beer for six days and 30 people could be lost in the blink of an eye. It’s this unique and demanding skill set, along with the rest of the group’s dependence upon them, that make the sweep boat captain’s job such a

NOWADAYS, THERE ARE ONLY ABOUT 35 SWEEP BOAT CAPTAINS IN THE ENTIRE

PHOTO COURTESY OARS / GORDON KLCO

PHOTO COURTESY OARS / ASHLEY PEEL

Portland, Oregon, along the Salmon, Snake and Columbia rivers. As his reputation grew, he made a business of taking people down the river, charging upwards of $1,000 per person, equivalent of roughly $10,000 today, a good deal more than the current cost of a commercial trip. By the end of the 1930s, the wooden, lumber bearing River of No Return scows had been largely replaced by new roads and rubber rafts. The gold rush was long passed and all that remained were a few family ranches, some hermit’s cabins and a ghost town or two. In 1927, Henry Weidner led a canoe trip down the Middle Fork of the Salmon, filming the trip for a documentary, which was the first known descent of the mighty Salmon’s most beautiful and scenic tributary. Other boaters followed in the mid to late 1930s. Road access did not reach the mouth of the Middle Fork until the late 30s. Before then, any float down the Middle Fork needed to continue all the way down the Main Salmon to Riggins. When a road was constructed from Stanley to Dagger Falls in the late 1950s it removed the necessity of navigating the narrow and tricky upper section of the river called Marsh Creek, along with the terrifying Dagger Falls rapid, which required a daunting portage. In 1968, the U.S. Congress passed The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act to “preserve certain rivers with outstanding natural, cultural and recreational values in a freeflowing condition for the enjoyment of present and future generations.” The Middle Fork of the Salmon River was designated a Wild and Scenic River that same year, celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2018. It’s also the only commercially run river that still relies on sweep boats. As the clients and guides in kayaks and oar rafts swoop and splash their way through the dramatic river canyon and its plentiful rapids, stopping at gorgeous white sand beaches for lunch and soaking in one of the many hot springs that dot the Middle Fork’s banks, the sweep captain must keep his boat steadily in the main current. The faster a sweep boat is moving, the more control the captain has. Extremely unwieldy and sluggish in slack water, keeping the boat’s momentum moving downstream is key. Ned Perry, a sweep boat captain for OARS explains it this way: “In the

WORLD, AND THEY ALL WORK RIGHT HERE ON THE MIDDLE FORK.”

ABOVE : SWEEP BOAT CAPTAIN NED PERRY

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PHOTO COURTESY NORTHWEST R AF TING COMPANY / Z ACHARY COLLIER

AUDREY GELHAUSEN, SWEEP BOAT DRIVER FOR NORTHWEST RAFTING COMPANY, THREADS HER BOAT, OLD TOBY—NAMED FOR LEWIS AND CLARK’S SHOSHONE GUIDE— THROUGH DEVIL’S TOOTH ON THE MIDDLE FORK OF THE SALMON.

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THERE’S JUST NO OTHER JOB IN THE WORLD LIKE IT.” —CHRIS LENTZ

prestigious and important one. Modern sweep boats on the Middle Fork come in a variety of designs, but all maintain a few key components. They must be capable of carrying two to four tons of gear with a very shallow draft, while also being narrow and maneuverable enough to navigate tight, rock choked rapids during low water without getting stuck, and sturdy enough to survive the large and powerful breaking waves during high water. Another critical aspect to sweep boats is their load balance. Every sweep captain has a different preference and technique when it comes to balancing their load, but they’re all extremely meticulous about it. In general, a sweep boat’s main source of control comes from the front sweep, so captains usually like to make sure that 60 percent of the gear weight is positioned towards the bow with the remaining 40 percent spread between the stern and side gunnels. It’s also interesting to note that as the float trip progresses food weight decreases, but since there are strict rules about packing out all food and wastethe actual overall weight of the boat stays about the same. It’s a joke common among sweep boat captains that what goes in, must come out. Once the sweep boat captain reaches that night’s campsite his or her job is far from over. All that gear needs to be unloaded, unpacked, and set up so when the clients step off the rafts at the end of the day, their tents, beds and dry clothes are all there waiting for them. That’s not to mention a cold beer or glass of chilled wine. It’s become part of the signature Middle Fork experience, and outfitters like Far and Away Adventures, based in Ketchum, have made an absolute art form out of creating the most comfortable campsites in the world in the middle of the wilderness without leaving a single thing behind. It’s all made possible by sweep boats and their captains, along with hard working guide crews, who not only make sure everyone makes it down the river safely and have a great time along the way, but are also gourmet chefs, janitors, dishwashers, bartenders, storytellers and

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musicians. No day on the Middle Fork is complete without a song or two around the campfire before bed, gazing up at the clear night sky filled with stars as a fire (even the ashes are kept and taken downstream on the sweep boat) crackles and the sound of the river rolling on by a few feet away creates the type of contentment and relaxation rarely found in today’s modern world. The next morning, as the guests are quietly sipping coffee or still sleeping, the sweep boat captain is orchestrating the guide crew like a skilled conductor as piles of gear get loaded on to the sweep and precisely arranged. Inside jokes and guffaws abound as the crew work together in a symphony of movement and efficiency honed over many seasons on the river working together. Before long, the sweep boat is launched and the captain, alone again with his thoughts, sets off for another day on the river. These are the moments sweep boat captains live for, as Perry explains quite eloquently: “That’s one of the best moments. The Middle Fork cuts right through the center of the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness, which is the largest wilderness area in the lower 48 states. To be out there running a wild river in the middle of the wilderness, by yourself, and knowing what excitement you have ahead of you, I love that. There are times when you can get a little into your own head, but for the most part, it’s amazing. You get a lot of good time to reflect. A lot of times, I just stare up at the canyon walls and smile.” There really is something mesmerizing about watching the sun on the canyon walls as it crawls slowly down them towards the rushing river, a place still incredibly wild and raw. Eagles and hawks soar above, mountain goats stand perched precariously along the vertical canyon walls, and large trout swim languidly beneath the surface as waterfalls drop down the cliffs and into the river. The daily stresses and worries of life in the modern world fade away and all that’s left is one beautiful moment, scenic vista and adrenaline pumping rapid after another. It’s no wonder so many sweep boat captains return to the Middle Fork every spring, year after year. It’s like Chris Lentz, a sweep boat captain and son of Far and Away owners who grew up on the river says, “There’s just no other job in the world like it.”  2

P H OTO C O U R T E SY FA R A N D AWAY A DV E N T U R E S


CHRIS LENTZ ENTERS THE S-TURN AT PISTOL CREEK.


RICHARD ZIMMERMAN, AKA “DUGOUT DICK”

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SOLITARIES CHOOSING TO GO IT ALONE IN SALMON RIVER COUNTRY PHOTO BY ANDY ANDERSON

BY CHERYL HAAS

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he isolation of the Salmon Rivers—the Main and the Middle Fork—far from civilization in the heart of the Frank Church “River of No Return” Wilderness was a haven for some of the most colorful characters in Idaho history. They were hermits, or “solitaries” in the parlance of the day. They fiercely guarded their independence and way of life: off the grid without benefit of jet boats, electricity or other modern conveniences. These men and women became living legends, celebrated as icons of rugged Idaho individualism and frontier self-reliance. Perhaps the best known of these canyon dwellers was Polly Bemis, the diminutive Chinese woman who was shipped to America and sold into slavery by her father in 1871. Legend has it that she was “won” in a poker game by Charlie Bemis, a saloonkeeper in the old mining town of Warren. She eventually married Bemis and spent the rest of her life on their homestead on the Salmon just downriver from Mackay Bar. If you know anything about Idaho river lore, then you’ve probably heard about Polly Bemis. But you may not know about Buckskin Bill, who lived upriver from the Bemis Ranch. Or Free Press Frances at Campbell’s Ferry. Or Dugout Dick, Cougar Dave, the Hermit of Impassable Canyon, Wheelbarrow Annie, Behind-the-Rocks Johnny, Wildhorse Cowgirl, The Ridge­runner or Doc Hisom. Here are a few of their stories…

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SY LVAN AMBRO SE HAR T A K A “ B U C K S K I N B I L L”

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BUCKSK IN BILL Park Avenue or Bond Street? Just this: a cold wind is what kills you in the mountains, but it can’t cut through a stag hide. And buckskin protects you from thorns. Know what those fringes are for? Not decoration. They let water run off faster!” He tended a 10,000-square-foot garden— fertilized by a buried deer, two bear heads and a cougar skeleton—which produced a bounty of fruits and vegetables: parsnips, carrots, beets, cabbage, squash, cucumbers, cantaloupes, straw­berries, pear and apple trees, and horseradish. Twice a year, he brought in $50 worth of flour, sugar, coffee, oatmeal, rice and raisins on his neighbor’s pack string. He paid for these by panning for gold during the summer. Peterson asked him if it were true that he used to go to town for “nothing but tea, gunpowder and books.” Buckskin replied drily, “When its 40 miles to town on ropes and snowshoes, that’s about all you can carry.” He was known for his exquisite craftsmanship of flintlock rifles, made, as Hart told Sports Illustrated, by using a “rotating helix driven by [his] fingers on a headblock nailed to the table.” He made his own bullets from bullet molds he crafted, as well as knives, copper pots and cherry wood bowls. These items and more still litter his home and outbuildings, which are part of a living museum maintained by a German couple who came to the canyon in 1981. Buckskin Bill may have been one of the few people in the country to have taken on the IRS, and won. Apparently, the fearsome agency had sent a slew of letters threatening dire consequences if he didn’t pay up on back taxes. Buckskin received government checks, not bothering to cash most of them. He never earned more than $500 in a year from his work as a Forest Service fire lookout, so didn’t see the need to file taxes. Clearly the IRS disagreed. According to author Cort Conley, as

reported in his book “Idaho Loners,” Buckskin “… togged himself out in bearskin britches, a bear claw necklace, shouldered his tent, sleeping bag, a sack of jerked venison, picked up his rifle and traveled out to McCall and on to Boise.” He presented himself at the IRS office, and “surrendered.” According to Conley, he even allowed as to how “he was ready to go to prison and had even brought his own pemmican.” The bureaucrats took one look at this character with his horned leather cap, long white beard and intelligent gleam in his eye, and sent him on his way, promising not to bother him again. The article in Sports Illustrated brought Buckskin Bill fame and notoriety. He took it all in stride with good humor and delighted in exaggerating his mountain man persona. In 1978, outfitted in a coonskin hat, buckskin clothing and his bear claw necklace, he flew to Boise to throw the first pitch for a new baseball team, the Boise Buckskins. In 1980, just shy of his 74th birthday, he died in his cabin the same way he had lived: alone.

7 8- 9 5 -1 2 A . I DA H O S TAT E A R C H I V E S .

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uckskin Bill arrived on Five Mile Bar during the Depression in 1932 and lived on his bit of land until his death in 1980. Favoring headgear of a leather cap with horns, sporting black glasses, a long beard and buckskin leggings, he was dubbed “The Last of the Mountain Men” and was the subject of a National Geographic television special of the same name. Born Sylvan Ambrose Hart in 1906, he graduated from the University of Oklahoma with a degree in literature. He found his way to Five Mile Bar where his nephew had bought a patented mill site and gave Hart four-tenths of an acre on the banks of the Salmon River. In those days he would have had to hike 96 miles over the mountains to Grangeville, which he did, for supplies. Hart’s spacious compound, all of which he built or crafted by hand, was downright luxurious by hermit standards: he built a kitchen house and blacksmith shop, and a two-story dwelling. The first floor of his home, fashioned from wood and covered with stucco, served as his winter quarters. The second floor was his summer home. He could catch cool breezes on the balcony, and it sported a bay window made of a B-18 cockpit canopy that he had packed in on his back. In 1966, a Sports Illustrated journalist, Harold Peterson, tracked him down and asked why he had come to this remote spot in the middle of the wilderness. Hart replied with sly humor, “I just like it so well I never came out. But I wouldn’t want to waste any time complaining about what passes for civilization. That’s too negative. You should be able to see what’s wrong about it with just a side glance, that’s all.” He shot wild game for meat, animal fat grease, and clothing. He favored garments constructed from deerskin. As he told Peterson,” Now what is there about buckskin that you could get better on

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PHOTO BY GLENN OAKLEY

FREE PRES S FR ANCES

FRANCES ZAUNMILLER WAITS FOR THE MAIL, C A M P B E L L S F E R R Y, 1 9 8 1

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ydia Frances Coyle lived for 46 years in a log cabin by the Salmon River in the heart of what was then the Idaho Primitive Area. She outlived three husbands (deliberately outran the first), resisted running water, and successfully pressured the federal government into allotting funds for a bridge across the river. She was born in 1913, and, as a young woman, worked as a telephone operator in Beeville, Texas. In 1938, she married a man named Charles Gamble. When it came to light that the source of Gamble’s money was a counterfeit ring, Frances fled, landing in Idaho. In Salmon, she took up with a fellow named Bert Rhoades who was subsequently arrested for poaching game. Frances was jailed as well but released soon thereafter and disappeared into the wilderness. After working for a time on the Stonebraker Ranch in the Chamberlain Basin of central Idaho, she happened across Joe Zaunmiller leading a

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pack string up the Three Blaze Trail. She asked him if he knew of anyone who needed a ranch hand. He hired her on the spot. Little did she know that, in 1942, Joe would become her husband, and she’d spend the rest of her life at Campbell’s Ferry on the Salmon River. Frances helped Zaunmiller run a cable ferry boat across the Salmon, in addition to chopping wood, canning fruits and vegetables from a large orchard and garden, haying the alfalfa field, raising ducks and chickens, and repairing the system of irrigation ditches that ran through the ranch. From May through September, Frances worked the ranch alone while Joe was employed as a packer for the Payette and Nez Perce National Forests. Photographs from that time show her dressed in skirts and dresses, despite the rigorous demands of daily life on the remote ranch. In 1945—in her spare time—she began to write a weekly column about living in the backcountry

for the Idaho Free Press, a newspaper in Grangeville. (Initially sent by overland mail, the columns traveled four miles downriver to the Dale Ranch, then along a primitive road to Dixie and another 60 miles to Grangeville. After 1958 and the building of an airstrip at Campbell’s Ferry, the columns went by air.) Always describing herself in third person, she explained why she turned down her husband’s offer to pipe running water into the cabin: “For years, Joe wanted to put running water in the house but she doesn’t want it. Running water would make a lot less work, but Joe doesn’t promise that the little water ditch that talks its way past the cabin door would not be taken away – so she will keep the ditch and listen to the water tell its tales of the places it has been. You should hear it brag sometimes!” A neighbor once kindly installed a generator and wired the cabin for electric lights. Frances listened to the hum of the generator for just one night before she decided it made too much racket. Some 30 years later, the ceramic fixtures and bulbs still hung, unlit, from the cabin ceiling. Frances used the popularity of her weekly column to agitate for improvements to Campbell’s Ferry. She started a letter-writing campaign to Idaho’s two senators for a bridge to replace the ferry until Sen. Henry Dworshak sponsored a bill. It was through Frances’ efforts that the Congress paid for a bridge in the wilderness where any kind of new construction was banned. She also succeeded in bringing mail to canyon residents via a weekly backcountry plane in 1958. (She once received Christmas presents in August because the overland mail was so infrequent and unreliable.) Because the airstrip was on a slope facing the river, in the winter Frances would tamp down new snow with her snowshoes before the small plane could land. After Zaunmiller passed away in 1962, the couple’s long-time friend Vern Wisner moved onto the property to help Frances. He and Frances married and enjoyed seven contented years until Vern’s death. She lived another 12 years on the ranch by herself until her death in 1986, engulfed in loneliness for perhaps the first time. A story in the Los Angeles Times brought Frances to the world’s attention, and while she zealously guarded her privacy, she was happy to give interviews when she felt like it. She had strong opinions and wasn’t afraid to share them. If you were lucky, she’d welcome you as a visitor. If not, she’d send you packing back into the wilderness with the sharp edge of her tongue!


E

arl Parrott was born in Iowa in 1869, and after short stints as a Western Union telegraph operator in Florida and prospector in the Yukon Gold Rush of 1897 he made his way to Idaho by 1900. Letters to his brother Allen trace his travels from Lewiston to Warren (where Charlie Bemis was the saloonkeeper) to the mouth of Elk Creek on the South Fork of the Salmon during the winter of 1916. As Conley relays in “Idaho Loners,” Johnny Carey, who visited Parrott that winter described Parrott as “…intelligent and industrious, he was also aloof, stubborn and lacking in humor. Nor was he fond of children.” By 1917, Parrott was situated with a tiny cabin on the steep cliffs towering above the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, a section of river deemed the Impassable Canyon. As shy as a wolverine, Parrott was the quintessential hermit, happily subsisting off what he could hunt and grow and panning for gold dust. Parrott’s camp was 1,000 feet up the cliffs, nestled in a hanging valley with a creek running through it. He nimbly scrambled up and down the cliffs on a series of hand-hewn log ladders perched against the rock walls. His garden was large and lush. He irrigated from the creek and saved his seeds to plant the next year. He raised corn, beans, sweet potatoes, cabbage, carrots, peppers, squash, raspberries, strawberries, watermelons, peaches and apricots. He dried and stored the vegetables and berries and hollowed out two yellow pine logs in which he kept his corn and beans. He dug a root cellar for his potatoes. The hermit once said the only other supplies he needed were salt, matches, tea and bullets, for which, once a year, he would trek the 70 miles into Shoup, the nearest town. In 1936, Dr. R.G. Frazier of Utah was part of a boating expedition team who happened on Parrott’s lower shed and climbed his ladders to the

USED WITH PERMISSION OF CORT CONLEY

THE HERMIT OF THE IMPAS SABLE CANYON

rim, surprising the recluse. Frazier described him as “about five feet, four inches, muscular, blueeyed and clean shaven … clad in tattered denim trousers with buckskin suspenders, a buckskin shirt and shoes with tire-tread soles and buckskin tops.” Parrott told his visitors they were his first in 37 years. Frazier wrote about his encounter with the hermit for Field & Stream and the Salt Lake City Deseret News. One of the articles was reprinted in the Oregonian, which caught the eye of Parrott’s brother Allen, whom he hadn’t seen in 38 years. In August 1936, Allen ventured from Starbuck, Wash., to the Salmon River, then over Stoddard Pack Bridge and by trail to Parrott’s place. He later wrote to his sister-in-law, Julia, in Vermont: “I think he is somewhat of a wild man or might say good old frontier days folk, and not to be wondered at when you think he has lived back there all this time by himself. Probably not seen another person once

in six months or a year. Had a nice visit, hated to leave him there alone.” Parrott was 67 years old at the time. In July 1939, Frazier again boated the Middle Fork and stopped to see Parrott, who didn’t appreciate the intrusion. The only existing film of Parrott was shot during this visit. Frazier’s colleague, Charles Kelly, noted in his diary that Parrott said, “If he knew we were coming he would have hidden out. Don’t like company. Says he used to go two years without seeing anyone, but now hunters disturb him every few months … Has to go five miles now to hunt deer in the fall. Country is getting too crowded. Used to go 70 miles for supplies. Now goes 10 miles to CCC camp [Civilian Conservation Corps] and bums a ride to town … Don’t like radio. Would rather hear the coyotes howl.” Earl Parrott died in the town of Salmon following complications from a stroke in August, 1945. He was 76 years old.

EARL PARROT T WITH HIS PISTOL, ON THE MIDDLE FORK OF THE SALMON


DUGOUT DICK

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nown as the Salmon River Caveman or Dugout Dick, Richard Zimmerman lived in a series of caves he dug by hand—some 60 feet deep—out of mountain rockslides above the Salmon River. He sparkled with in­ genuity, a sense of humor, and an appreciation for visitors. In 1934, leaving a tyrannical father and unhappy home life behind in Indiana, Zimmerman rode the rails, cowboyed in Montana, and herded sheep for several ranches in Idaho. In 1942, he joined the Army and drove a truck in the Pacific theater of World War II. In the fall of 1947, he drove his old Buick into the Lemhi Valley on the Salmon River road, 18 miles south of the town of Salmon. He squatted on a piece of BLM land below a hill of scree and rockslide, and discovered that a cave would make just what he wanted in a “home”: cool in the summer and warm in the winter. He described his caves to Conley during a visit: “Most of my buildings are roofed flat with peeled fir poles over 18-inch timbers. Topped with two or three feet of dirt and mud. I cover them with tarpaper and aluminum from an old house trailer, then lay carpet topped off with tires. My goat herd

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can bed down up there. (A nanny butted him off the roof in when he was 65, breaking his hip.) The outside front of my house is logs but the other three sides are rock.” An early proponent of recycling, he used old car windshields as windows. His personal domicile boasted scavenged carpet and linoleum as flooring, a wood stove, a tube pipe that brought fresh water from a spring and a solar collector that ran his radio. He dug a total of 14 structures with a pick, shovel, and pry bar. His caves were visible from Highway 93 across the river and being a sociable man, he ventured into an early form of Airbnb. He realized he could make a living by renting out his caves for $5 a night or $25 a month (up from his initial rate of $2 a night and $20 a month). “I’m in the tourist business,” he once told the Idaho Statesman. “I made $40 the other day. And the Army’s started sending me money every month. I’m livin’ high on the hog now!” Zimmerman married once, to a woman from Mexicali who was his pen pal in a lonely-hearts club. It didn’t take. He told Conley, “She had no taste for goat meat or Rye Krisp, nor any inclination to work in the garden. ‘If you really loved

me,’ she said, ‘you’d build me a house across the river.’” He declined, and she hitchhiked south. A man of many talents, he could pick his guitar and blow his harmonica simultaneously, while dancing a clumsy jig. Because he had a delicate digestion, he couldn’t eat bread, meat, or sugar. With his goats for milk and his garden for fresh vegetables, he did not lack for food. He learned to make yogurt from stinging nettles, ate corn tortillas cooked in wine, drank spud beer, carrot juice and lemon juice, and ate garlic. He sold vegetables and fruit leather in town. “I have everything here,” he once said. “I got lots of rocks and rubber tires. I have plenty of straw and fruits and vegetables, my dog and my cats and my guitar. I make wine to cook with. There’s nothing I really need.” Dugout Dick’s fame spread over the globe. He was featured in National Geographic, appeared on “Good Morning America,” and turned down offers to appear on “The Tonight Show.” Television crews and journalists clamored to chronicle the quirky Caveman of the Salmon River. Zimmerman lived in his caves for over 60 years and died in 2010 at the age of 94.

F R A N K C H U R C H PA P E R S , S P EC I A L C O L L EC T I O N S A N D A R C H I V E S , B O I S E S TAT E U N I V E R S I T Y.

RICHARD ZIMMERMAN AT HIS CABIN ON THE SALMON RIVER, C . 1 9 7 4 -7 8


COUGAR DAVE

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ave Lewis was born in Wales in 1844 and emigrated to the United States four years later. Not much is known about his early years, except that he was a slight man with a penchant for telling tall tales. He claimed to be 10 years older than he was and claimed to have fought in the Civil War at the Siege of Vicksburg with Wild Bill Hickok. Research showed that Lewis was prone to exaggeration. Lewis built a cabin on Big Creek, a major drainage into the Middle Fork of the Salmon, in 1909. It was there that he earned his moniker, Cougar Dave. He made his living by killing cougars, also known as mountain lions, for the bounty paid by the state. Between the bounty and the pelt, Lewis could make about $35 per cougar. He claimed to have bagged 500 during

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DAVE LE WIS AND HIS BEST THREE COUGAR DOGS, FRANK CHURCH-RIVER OF NO RETURN WILDERNESS, 1928

his years as a hunter. Perhaps he was stretching the truth, but in 1922, the Idaho Statesman reported, “Mr. Lewis brought to Boise the pelts of 14 cougars, 15 coyotes, 2 bobcats, 2 foxes and 4 mink, all of which were caught last winter.” It was the first time that Lewis had been in Boise since 1878. The Statesman story continued,” Mr. Lewis is a little man and speaks with the slow drawl of the mountaineer. ‘You know,’ he said, ‘you see the same folks on the street every day and it just makes a fellow wonder what they all do to make a living.’ “ Conley described Lewis as “an avid reader in winter; books filled a dark hole in his isolation. He lived alone in his log 15-by-15-foot cabin under a roof insulated with six inches of dirt.” A visiting surveyor described a second room in the cabin,

“cobwebs and dust everywhere” that Lewis never ventured into. In it, he found a large framed portrait of “a beautiful young woman” with its face to the wall. Apparently, the girl had spurned Lewis’ marriage proposal 50 years’ before, and his cracked heart never fully recovered. In 1934, Cougar Dave sold his homestead to Jess Taylor for $1,200. (The University of Idaho later acquired the Taylor Ranch as a research station.) In 1936, Lewis contracted pneumonia and, at the age of 93, rode his horse 25 miles to seek help at the Big Creek Ranger Station. He died at the V.A. Hospital in Boise a few days later. In his obituary, the Statesman reported, “Last fall he complained that the country was settling up too fast. ‘A man don’t have no privacy no more,’ he told his nearest neighbor—five miles away.”  2


inthearts

CREATING A ‘UTOPIAN LIBRARY’ The art of Paul Béliveau BY EMILEE MAE STRUSS

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uebec artist Paul Béliveau is removing the romanticism of pop culture and burning the edges of classical written works. He’s ripping the content from its context and pairing it akin to a new anatomy. Smoldered novels. Warped spines. Burned pages. All on a larger than life canvas of supine geometrical books. He says it might have something to do with the 60s. Hippies. “The hippy generation left an impression on me,” Béliveau explained in a recent interview. “It’s a type of personal nostalgia.” While attending Laval University in Quebec City for a Bachelor of Arts degree in Visual Arts in the 60s, he was recognized for his brilliance in drawing, engraving, and painting. Today, his accomplishments include over 100 solo exhibitions across Canada, the United States, and Europe. Béliveau’s paintings are hyper-accurate representations of famous books and iconic celebrities. Two particular collections will be displayed at Gilman Contemporary in Ketchum June 24 – July 26.

At left, top to bottom, Paul Béliveau’s artwork: “In Memoriam: Melville,” “Autodafé IX,” and “Vanitas 19.02.06.” Above: Béliveau at work in his Quebec City studio.

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inthearts // paul béliveau

Béliveau relaxes in front of two of his recent works: “Autodafé XI” (left) and “Vanitas 19.03.13.”

One series is titled “Vanitas.” It’s a collection of paintings comprising fictitious book spines displaying titles that, however subtly, connect to one another. Iconic artists across a spectrum of genres and subject matter intersect: Michael Jackson, “Picasso’s War,” Wayne Thiebaud, Jack Kerouac, Anthony Burgess, John Steinbeck—artists hailing from different disciplines with their life’s greatest works precariously posed on the spines. It is as if their own artistic developments were pages and pages of a spellbinding novel. For that is the impact it left on Béliveau. “The ‘60s were the years of my adolescence,” Béliveau said. “They were marked by significant cultural changes in music, visual arts, politics, religion, science and aerospace.” A great amount of information about the world is absorbed during the adolescent years. Béliveau is attentive when letting these influential experiences artistically seep into his paintings and drawings. The second series to be exhibited is “Autodafés.” It is a complement to “Vanitas” with its exposition of classical works and their writers: Albert Einstein, Ernest Hemingway, Sigmund Freud. These are artists who were controversial in their respective time periods. And they’re all burned. The pages curl up at 74

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THE ‘60S WERE THE YEARS OF MY ADOLESCENCE. THEY WERE MARKED BY SIGNIFICANT CULTURAL CHANGES…”

the edges in charcoal crisps, though the titles are just legible. “The ‘Autodafés’ series is not unlike that of the Nazis who burned more than 20,000 books on German universities,” Béliveau said. “It proves that our culture remains fragile and at the same time burning a book is also a Promethean gesture: By fire we obtain knowledge.” Béliveau’s work travels between genres and initiates a contemplative conversation of idealized elements. They build upon each another as the construct of a society builds upon itself with varying opinions, values, and laws. It’s a wink from the artist to the world relaying their most captivating thoughts. Over the years, Béliveau has created a rich body of work appreciated by many who have

followed his development as an artist. And the way in which he chooses to work reveals that it is a lifestyle for Béliveau, from sun up to sun down. His day begins promptly at 7 a.m. Of course, that’s after a 15-kilometer bike ride from his home on the south side of Quebec City and a ferry ride across the St. Lawrence River to reach his multi-workshop studio. There he sips an espresso with the brilliance of Bach concertos playing in the background before beginning work. He has two assistants who help him three days a week and a full-time partner, his spouse, Manon, who has worked with him for 20 years. She handles the accounting, communicates with galleries and museums, manages local and international shipments, and keeps inventory of his work. She also helps with the lettering on the paintings and puts the final varnish on his works. His home hosts a third studio with 12-foot ceilings and is well lit by natural light pouring in through large windows. At home, he continues his research and documentation for new paintings. “I devote around 10 hours a day to art and creation,” Béliveau explained. The term “utopian library” is the construct of transformation and an intimation of thematic convergence that Béliveau will be exhibiting at the Gilman Contemporary show. “I often use the term ‘utopian library’ because, in general, the book spines that the viewer sees do not exist as is,” Béliveau said. “It allows me to be more creative and thus to design a work where image, color, and typography allow a more dynamic reality.” Gilman Contemporary owner L’Anne Gilman was introduced to Béliveau’s work by a client who had commissioned a piece. She says that she fell in love with his work and was immediately interested in seeing his new paintings as they were created. “I admire Paul not only for his talent as a photorealist painter, but for his unique ability to tell a story in how he places these imagined books together,” Gilman said. With his artwork rendering a new mixture of time-warped ideas, Béliveau says that he hopes to create an encounter between the writer, the historian, and the reader. “The fact that ‘Vanitas,’ ‘Autodafés,’ and also ‘In Memoriam’ series interact with each other, it gives weight to these reflections that, hopefully, will give the viewer the taste of reading, which is the door to knowledge in the digital age,” Béliveau said.  2


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inthearts // morgan james

FROM GERSHWIN TO SOUL Singer Morgan James ‘is on fire’ BY CHERYL HAAS

Hi, I’m Morgan, and I’m from Idaho!” With this, singer Morgan James opened her March 17 show, “White to Blue,” at Boise’s Sapphire Room with an effervescent smile, inviting her audience to accompany her on a musical journey through blues, soul, Joni Mitchell and The Beatles, and her own original songs. It was an unforgettable evening as the power of James’ voice and her vocal styling completely rocked the room. The New York Times has declared her “a phenomenal talent whose feel for classic soul is bone deep … This woman is on fire!”

Morgan James is set to perform at The Sun Valley Music Festival on August 17.

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LY N D A L O W E SUMMER EXHIBITIONS Tony Foster • Gary Komarin • Pegan Brooke • Robb Putnam • Margaret Keelan • Rana Rochat • Deborah Butterfield Gwynn Murrill • Linda Christensen • Bean Finneran • Raphaëlle Goethals • Morris Graves • Squeak Carnwath Marcia Myers • Kathy Moss • Jane Rosen • Anne Siems • Helen Steele • Allison Stewart

GAIL SEVERN GALLERY 400 First Avenue North

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Part of James’ appeal is her connection with her audience and her vulnerability—the willingness to bare her musical soul. Fan alert: After visiting venues in the East, her “White to Blue” tour will land in Park City on July 6 for the Deer Valley Music Festival. Then on Aug. 17, she will grace the Sun Valley Pavilion stage—transformed into a classical diva—as she sings an evening of Gershwin with the Sun Valley Music Festival (see sidebar). It will be her first visit to the Wood River Valley. In interviews before and after her Boise show, James shared some of the details of her life in music. While she was born in Boise, James spent her childhood in Pocatello. A New Yorker now, she said that being from Idaho “absolutely informs my level of humility and gratitude.“ She grew up listening to her parents’ record collection of Joni Mitchell, Otis Redding, Sam Cooke, and Crosby, Stills & Nash—all of the classics of that generation. She listened to opera at bedtime. But it wasn’t until she was 11, when her grandmother bought her a karaoke machine as a present, that she discovered her gift. As she recalled for a 2017 Huffington Post article, “I opened my mouth and a grown woman came out! … I wanted to sound like Joni Mitchell, Mariah Carey, and Aretha Franklin!” And she does. At the same time, she sounds exactly like Morgan James. James has garnered a lot of well-deserved attention for her covers of D’Angelo, Nina Simone, John Mayer, Nirvana and others. She even recorded a cover of Prince’s “Call My Name.” After he heard it over the phone, he declared, “I love it!” and gave her permission to include it in her album, “Hunter.” The single climbed to No.15 on Billboard’s Adult Urban Contemporary chart. So how does she manage to cover artists this diverse and still be unmistakably Morgan James? “I use the same technique but a different style for each genre,” she told me. “I’ve been studying singing for 24 years, and I’ve worked hard to sound like myself and not a facsimile of someone else.“ She says her technique is her “security blanket,” and she credits her opera studies at The Julliard School for that foundation. “It makes me fearless because I feel like I have something of substance underneath me.” 78

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Fearless is sitting onstage in her jeans and flannel shirt before her Boise show, her spaniel Luther snuggled into her lap, husband Doug Wamble on guitar behind her, and upon this writer’s spontaneous request, effortlessly breaking into a joyful and heartstopping rendition of Aretha Franklin’s “Chain of Fools.” Fearless is recording, in just a month’s time, the entirety of The Beatles’ “White Album,” each of the 30 songs in its original key, in honor of the 50th anniversary of the album’s release. Fearless is recording Joni’s iconic album “Blue” and giving each song her own interpretation while maintaining the integrity of the original. “I only cover things I really love and admire, that I can sing with my true voice,” she grinned. After graduating from Julliard, James paid her dues trying to make it in New York. As anyone who has chased a dream knows all too well, success doesn’t happen overnight. It takes years of discipline and diligence. When James learned she was not initially accepted into Julliard she refused to take no for an answer. Yes, she did eventually make it in, but only after persevering and persuading the powers-that-be to admit her. “The only reason I’ve succeeded is that gumption is my number one attribute,” she

[BEING FROM IDAHO] ABSOLUTELY INFORMS MY LEVEL OF HUMILITY AND GRATITUDE.”

said. “It’s the reason I haven’t ever given up. People who succeed don’t necessarily have more talent. They just don’t give up.” Eventually, she began to make her mark in Broadway shows. She was first cast in the 2010 production of “The Addams Family,” starring Bebe Neuwirth and Nathan Lane. The next year she appeared in “Wonderland” and then in the revival of “Godspell.” The performance grind of Broadway—doing eight shows a week, keeping the material fresh and one’s energy up day after day— gave James the requisite discipline for the life she leads now. But at that time, her soul yearned to express her own creativity. She started a band, playing gigs on Monday nights when the theater was dark. “Of course, I didn’t know what I was doing,” she told The Huffington Post. “I knew I had some other voice that needed to be heard, and I wanted to find out what it was.”

PHOTO: COURTESY COBALT SK Y ENTERTAINMENT, INC. / LUKE TELLING

inthearts // morgan james


Severn Art ServiceS since 1974

On the path to finding her “true” voice, she was cast as Teena Marie in “Motown: The Musical.” The show was developed by Barry Gordy, the producer and starmaker who started Motown Records and signed Smokey Robinson, Diana Ross and Marvin Gaye, among others. With a keen eye for talent, the legendary Gordy mentored James, encouraging her to write music and helped her get a recording contract with Epic Records. She recorded her first studio album, “Hunter” and was dropped when she didn’t make money. Initially devastated, James soon realized it was her ticket to artistic freedom. Like Eva Cassidy (who passed away in 1996), James refuses to be limited by one genre. Her vocal flexibility and complexity are showcased in her ability to creatively interpret songs as wildly different as those of Tina Turner and George Gershwin. She co-wrote and produced her next album, “Reckless Abandon.” Today, James and Wamble are in the process of recording a new album at Big Sail Records in Memphis. Boasting 14 new songs, it’s due to be released in October. James is proud to be an independent artist. That means it’s up to her to do everything: marketing, promotion, distribution, tour travel arrangements, selling CDs and t-shirts at gigs, hiring musicians, writing, producing, and singing. “What makes all this worthwhile—singing for two hours a day, what drives me to do everything—is that there’s never a moment I don’t love making music!” she said. “All of us onstage for this are so lucky to make music for a living.” James is not just lucky, she’s good.  2

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DON’T MISS IT Saturday, August 17, 2019, 6:30 p.m.  Pops Night: The Music of George Gershwin This is the date that Morgan James is set to perform at The Sun Valley Music Festival, formerly known as The Sun Valley Summer Symphony, as it celebrates its 35th season. The name change and new branding reflect the symphony’s addition of a Winter Festival and its standing in the pantheon of music festivals throughout the country. To see the full schedule, visit SVMusicFestival.org. As always, performances are free thanks to the generosity of donors.

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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inthearts // ballet sun valley

San Francisco Ballet performs Justin Peck’s “Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming.”

A CELEBRATION OF DANCE, AL FRESCO The San Francisco Ballet returns to Sun Valley BY K ATE HULL

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hen Bob Smelick visited the Sun Valley Pavilion with his family at its 2008 gala show featuring the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, he was struck by the splendor of the stage, the striking backdrop, and the intimacy of experiencing art al fresco. It reminded him of a pop-up San Francisco Ballet performance he saw in a Paris park years before. “That was the first time I had seen ballet in an outdoor venue, and I became very intrigued with the beauty of ballet in a natural setting,” he recalled. Smelick’s history with the dance dates back decades. His daughter, Gillian, danced at the San Francisco Ballet School before she went on to study medicine, now a third year resident at Stanford Medical School. But in her youth, Gillian’s passion for dance was a

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family affair. The founder of Ballet Sun Valley, Smelick is a trustee emeritus on the San Francisco Ballet, where he was a board member for 20 years. At the end of that summer almost 11 years ago, Smelick had an idea: what if he could bring the San Francisco Ballet to Sun Valley? He passed the thought along to the SF Ballet’s artistic director, Helgi Tomasson. It sparked his interest, but the execution seemed daunting. “There was an original concern that Sun Valley Pavilion was not a good venue for ballet,” Smelick said. “There are no curtains, no lighting.” But the Paris show that was etched into his mind didn’t have any frills either, and, to Smelick, it was breathtaking. He drove the idea forward, securing space in the pavilion’s 2012 summer calendar and brought it back to the San Francisco Ballet. Soon, a one-performance tour was on the books. That summer, Sun Valley hosted a sold-out showcase featuring 20 dancers from

the internationally renowned ballet company. Artistic Director Tomasson called it one of the most beautiful venues in which the company has ever performed. “San Francisco Ballet had one incredible performance that was very well received, even without the curtains or the lights,” Smelick said. “There was a breeze floating through the tent, the aspens bent in the wind, and clouds floated by. My wife even commented that it was the most beautiful ballet she’d seen.” Shortly thereafter, they began working to secure dates for the upcoming summers, and Smelick got to work on procuring the performers. However, the summer touring schedule for San Francisco Ballet and the sought-after calendar of the pavilion made booking tough. In 2016, Isabella Boylston, a Wood River Valley native and a principal dancer with the American Ballet Theatre, approached Ballet Sun Valley. She sought to create a festival with dancers from a variety of well-known interna-


PHOTO: COURTESY SAN FR ANCISCO BALLET / ERIK TOMASSON

tional ballet companies. In August 2017 and again in 2018, Ballet Sun Valley hosted an independent dancer festival at the pavilion with Boylston as art director. “Judging by the audiences’ reaction to the first three years, there is a real appetite for this art form in Sun Valley,” Smelick noted. “It adds to the cultural texture of the entire community, alongside the music festival, writers’ conference, and a number of things Sun Valley offers. This is a wonderful complement to those.” The 2019 showcases are a highly anticipated return for the San Francisco Ballet. Performances will be on July 5 and 7 at the Sun Valley Pavilion, with 38 dancers from 13 countries, and two entirely different programs with dances that span the spectrum of ballet. “Helgi is bringing a level of performance that he’d bring to the Lincoln Center, Kennedy Center, you name it,” Smelick said. The first evening, entitled Program A, will be a Gala-style performance with a number of pas de deux and shorter dances, featuring a collection of seven pieces, including works choreographed by Tomasson, Victor Gsovsky, Yuri Possokhov—San Francisco Ballet choreographer in residence—and Danielle Rowe, formerly of Nederlands Dans Theater. The second show on July 7, Performance B, will feature a mixed repertory-style performance with three longer ballets, all of which premiered in 2018 at the celebrated dancing event, Unbound Festival. The weekend will be punctuated by a youth educational program providing instruction at all levels of ballet. “Three San Francisco Ballet dancers will teach students of all ages during a three-day immersive program for dancers from around the country, free of charge,” Smelick explained. And new this year, Ballet Sun Valley is also offering an adaptive ballet program for instructors. “Ballet Sun Valley and Boston Ballet are putting together a special needs program to teach instructors, both dance and special needs-focused, to teach dance as a therapy [tool],” he said. Thanks to the unyielding passion of a dedicated lover of dance and a community that welcomes fine arts with open arms, it seems that Ballet Sun Valley is merely in its first act. And whatever is on the horizon, it’s sure to take your breath away.  2 SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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“Desert Bighorn in San Rafael,” oil on canvas, 48” x 60”

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inthearts // gallery buzz

SUMMER GALLERY BUZZ

From left: “New Rome 01” by Isabelle Menin, at Gilman Contemporary, digital c print; and “Serenity” by William Berrs, at Kneeland Gallery, oil on linen, 48 in. x 36 in.

The Sun Valley area boasts a diverse and cosmopolitan art community. Here is a sampling of what’s in store at galleries this summer. JUNE EXHIBITIONS

AUROBORA June 18 - Aug. 15 LOOPMASTERM – NEW WORKS

BROSCHOFSKY GALLERIES June – August CURTIS, DE GROOT, CHATHAM, PELOKE, BROSCHOFSKY, SCHENCK Throughout summer, Broschofsky Galleries is featuring gallery artists with an array of subjects and mediums. Included are photographic images from the Edward Curtis project “The North American Indian” 1898-1928. Of particular note is

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“Vanishing Race,” the photo that was the impetus for his vast works. Russell Chatham’s quietly contemplative and poetic paintings of western landscapes strike a place of familiarity in the viewer. Ewoud de Groot’s paintings of wildlife suggest their magical environment in an abstract setting as opposed to traditional realism in the wildlife genre. William Matthews shows a mastery of watercolor technique in his western works while equine subjects are shown in Ken Peloke’s magnificent large-scale mixed media paintings. Rudi Broschofsky brings an urban art genre to western subjects with his unique spray paint and stencil techniques. Billy Schenck’s pop style portrayals of western horsemen define his style of bringing an almost poster like image to life in colorful oil paintings. Also included are a selection of works from Andy Warhol’s “Cowboys & Indians” portfolio, 1986.

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GAIL SEVERN GALLERY June 14 – July 21 June 14: Opening Reception; July 6: Artist Chat, 10 a.m. “TONY FOSTER WATERCOLOUR DIARIES: GREAT BASIN & COPPER BASIN” — Foster’s latest inspiration for the exhibition initially came from the Sun Valley Center for the Arts. He was invited to do a series of works in response to their major thematic project about the Great Basin. Foster became excited with the idea that he could contrast the huge scale of the Great Basin with the easily encompassed Copper Basin. June 24 – July 29 July 6: Artist Chat, 10 a.m. “BOUND & BOUNDLESS” - LYNDA LOWE The exhibition, with its collection of bookrelated artwork, creates the atmosphere of an athenaeum. Lowe’s artwork often

begins with reading, research, and the relationships between art and science, and with poetry being a contemplative source, an athenaeum seems a fitting association for this show and also an invitation for the viewer to enter. July 6: Artist Chat, 10 a.m. PEGAN BROOKE Pegan Brooke’s paintings are inspired by the experiences of sustained reflection upon the Aven River in Pont Aven, France, the Pacific Ocean near Bolinas, California and the snow and Wood River in Ketchum, Idaho. She is awed by the beauty of light falling on water and snow. This visual phenomenon is a perfect natural metaphor for the ever-changing flux in which we make our lives. July 6: Artist Chat, 10 a.m. ROBB PUTNAM Robb Putnam builds animal forms with cast off blankets, shirts, fake fur, rags,


Clockwise, from left: “Regal” by Ken Peloke at Broschofsky Galleries, mixed media, 50 in. x 38 in.; Untitled by LoopmasterM, at Aurobora; “Landscape in Studio” by Anna Valdez, at Ochi Gallery, oil and acrylic on canvas, 66 in. x 84 in.; and “In Jake’s Meadow” by Josephson and Grenon, at Friesen Gallery, oil on wood, 15.5 in. x 21 in.

thread, plastic bags, leather and thread. These sculptures evoke playful, whimsical characters found in children’s books, but his characters are something different: they are physically and psychologically vulnerable and seem like overgrown stuffed toys or imaginary friends. June 26 – Aug. 22 Aug. 3: Artist Chat, 10 a.m. GARY KOMARIN Gary Komarin, a master of Post-Painterly Abstraction, has been at the forefront of contemporary art with a bold and colorful style recognized by art collectors worldwide, and museum curators alike.

HARVEY ART PROJECT June 15 – July 21 “VIVID” - PAINTINGS FROM THE APY LANDS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA The works in VIVID highlight senior artists from all seven artistic centers, including Ninuku Arts at Kalka, Tjungu Palya at Nyapari, Tjala Arts at Amata, Ernabella Arts at Pukatja, Kaltjiti Arts at Fregon, Mimili Maku at Mimili and Iwantja Arts at Indulkana. These art centres are 100 percent Anangu owned and operated. They provide a community hub, a place

for sharing and passing down of culture and knowledge from one generation to the next, support of cultural practices, the ethical production and sale of the artists works, and a platform for artists to be positioned within the Australian and international art movements.

OCHI June 29 – Aug. 10 “ABSOLUTE SPACE” - TANYA BRODSKY, JAMES CASTLE, GREG ITO,
NICK MCPHAIL,
PAUL ROUPHAIL, MATTHEW SCARLETT, ANNA VALDEZ “Like the body, landscape is something we inhabit without being different from it: we are in it, and we are it...Philosophy melts into impressionism; logic deliquesces into reverie. The object isn’t bound by our attention: it binds us.” –James Elkins in Landscape Theory Absolute space is defined as “space independent of what occupies it: the space in which positions are finally determined.” (Merriam-Webster). This exhibition considers the idea of attention as it relates to the spaces around us. The artists included create distinct spatial perspective to direct awareness and build narrative.

Enjoy free evenings of art viewing and conversation at the Sun Valley Gallery Association’s “Gallery Walks.” Galleries are open from 5-8 p.m. with artists often in attendance. Friday, July 5 + Friday, August 2 + Friday, August 30

SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS June 13; Opening celebration: 5 p.m. “MIRAGE: ENERGY AND WATER IN THE GREAT BASIN” Panel discussion: “Is Landscape Still Relevant in 21st- Century Art?” — A Discussion with Jim Ballinger, Peter Hassrick and Frances Ashforth at the Sun Valley Center for the Arts, 6 p.m. June 27 Evening Exhibition Tour: Enjoy a glass of wine as you tour the exhibition with The Center’s curators. 5:30 p.m.

AUROBORA June 18 - Aug. 15 LOOPMASTERM – NEW WORKS

BROSCHOFSKY GALLERIES CURTIS, DE GROOT, CHATHAM, PELOKE, BROSCHOFSKY, SCHENCK See June Listing.

GAIL SEVERN GALLERY

Join two esteemed museum directors and “Mirage” exhibition artist Frances Ashforth in a discussion that explores why landscape remains an important subject for artists in 21st-century America. At this moment, when some critics declare painting dead and many contemporary artists work in nontraditional media, why does artwork that responds to landscape continue to resonate? How does the trajectory of landscape art mirror the time in which it is made? Jim Ballinger served as Director of Phoenix Art Museum for 33 years. Peter Hassrick is former Director of the Buffalo Bill Center of the West and the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Painter and printmaker Frances Ashforth has exhibited in group and solo exhibitions throughout the U.S.

JULY EXHIBITIONS

TONY FOSTER, LYNDA LOWE, PEGAN BROOKE, GARY KOMARIN See June listing

FRIESEN GALLERY July 3: Artist Talk, 4-5:30 p.m. July 5: Opening Reception, 5-8 p.m. “A NEW STORY BEGINS” - MARY JOSEPHSON & GREGORY GRENON Husband and wife, Gregory Grenon and Mary Josephson, have collaborated for a unique mixed media exhibition premiering animals as their subjects. Known nationally for their expressive human portraits, this exhibition will be a major expansion of their recognizable canons. Titled “A New Story Begins,” the exhibition treads the line between real and magical, simple and complex, and explores how humans are connected to every living creature.

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From left: Mimili Maku artist, the late Kathleen Tjaplyi, on country near Mimili, Harvey Art Project; and “Salton Sea” by Cedra Wood, at Sun Valley Center for the Arts.

GILMAN CONTEMPORARY This July Gilman Contemporary will exhibit PAUL BÉLIVEAU’S hyper realistic paintings of books that bring together literary and historical subjects and figures. In Béliveau’s series “Vanitas,” he builds facades of book spines that house interconnected titles both real and imagined. In the series “Autodafés,” broken spines and burnt pages create paintings that feel like relics of the past. Gilman Contemporary will also exhibit the work of Jackson Hole, Wyo. based photographer TUCK FAUNTLEROY. His series Waterline is the culmination of ten years of mapping, flying, and exploring the ever-changing paths of isolated rivers throughout the West at the cusp of spring.

HARVEY ART PROJECT July 22 – Aug. 22 SPIRIT WORLDS OF MANINGRIDA Harvey Art projects and Maningrida Arts & Culture are proud to present this exhibition, Spirit Worlds of Maningrida. An art movement that is striking, political and enduring: this is what contemporary artists in Maningrida and the surrounding homelands have built, powered by their ancestral connections to country and djang. The exhibition includes ceremonial regalia, sculpture and paintings by Jack Nawilil, Owen Yalandja, Ivan Namirrkki, Susan Marawarr, Deborah Wurrkidj, Marcus Dijarama Pascoe, Paul Nabulumo Namarinjmak, Rosina Gunjarrwanga, Serena Bonson and Sonia Namarnyil.

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KNEELAND GALLERY July 5: Artist Reception, 5-8 p.m. WILLIAM BERRA, ANDRZEJ SKORUT Having moved from the East coast to New Mexico in the late 70’s, Berra spent a decade predominantly painting the Santa Fe landscape en plein air. Influenced by the Macchiaioli painters of 19th century Italy, precursors to the French Impressionist painters, he experimented with techniques to achieve their effects. One such technique was that of painting on a board shellacked with an orange base to warm the painting, a practice he continues today. Skorut’s richly colored and contemplative landscapes contain elements of formalism interpreted in a contemporary fashion through the use of non-traditional materials to create texture in the surface of his canvases.

OCHI June 29 – Aug. 10 “ABSOLUTE SPACE” – TANYA BRODSKY, JAMES CASTLE, GREG ITO,
NICK MCPHAIL,
PAUL ROUPHAIL, MATTHEW SCARLETT, ANNA VALDEZ See June Listing

SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS July 9, 6 p.m., The Community Library: “PHOTOGRAPHING THE GREAT BASIN” — A CONVERSATION WITH EMMET GOWIN, LAURA MCPHEE AND FAZAL SHEIKH Join The Center for a conversation with three internationally known photographers about their work in the Great Basin.

sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

AUGUST EXHIBITIONS

AUROBORA Through Aug. 15 LOOPMASTERM – NEW WORKS

BROSCHOFSKY GALLERIES CURTIS, DE GROOT, CHATHAM, PELOKE, BROSCHOFSKY, SCHENCK See June Listing.

FRIESEN GALLERY Aug. 2 LAWRENCE FODOR Lawrence Fodor’s paintings have been included in the publication and exhibition, Speak for the Trees (2010), and have been the subject of two catalogues to accompany exhibitions at the Laguna Art Museum, Laguna Beach, California (Holding Light, 2012) and the Lannan Foundation, Santa Fe, New Mexico (Kōan Boxes, 2009).

GILMAN CONTEMPORARY August Celebrate our 12-year anniversary with a curated exhibition of new works by gallery favorites, including new photographs by Isabelle Menin. Menin’s painterly instinct comes forward in the colorful vibrations and moments of turbulence in her largescale prints that sweep the viewer into each photograph. August/September Wendel Wirth’s newest photographic series “This is the Place” explores the linear and minimal lines of agricultural

buildings throughout rural Idaho. Rippled metal, sun soaked and wind ravaged wood punctuated by sharp slices of sky and land inform the minimal compositions. The Polaroid inspired border that frames Wirth’s images brings to mind the nostalgia of these places, a reminder that their essence is both fleeting and disposable.

HARVEY ART PROJECT July 22 – Aug. 22 SPIRIT WORLDS OF MANINGRIDA See June listing

KNEELAND GALLERY Aug. 2: Artists’ Reception, 5-8 p.m. ANNUAL PLEIN AIR EXHIBITION Each Summer Kneeland Gallery invites its own group of plein air painters to participate in an artistic celebration featuring gatherings and events throughout the week. Paint outs, demonstrations and a quick draw all feature in the event and spectators, fellow artists and collectors can enjoy the finished paintings at the culminating gallery walk on the final day. The participating artists this year are Steven Lee Adams, Ovanes Berberian, Jack Braman, John Horejs, Shanna Kunz, Lori McNee, Caleb Meyer, Robert Moore, Silas Thompson and Bart Walker.

OCHI June 29 – Aug. 10 “ABSOLUTE SPACE” – TANYA BRODSKY JAMES CASTLE GREG ITO
NICK MCPHAIL
PAUL ROUPHAIL MATTHEW SCARLETT ANNA VALDEZ See June listing.


G A RY KO M A R I N SUMMER EXHIBITIONS Tony Foster • Lynda Lowe • Pegan Brooke • Robb Putnam • Margaret Keelan • Rana Rochat • Deborah Butterfield Gwynn Murrill • Linda Christensen • Bean Finneran • Raphaëlle Goethals • Morris Graves • Squeak Carnwath Marcia Myers • Kathy Moss • Jane Rosen • Anne Siems • Helen Steele • Allison Stewart

GAIL SEVERN GALLERY 400 First Avenue North

PO Box 1679 • Ketchum, ID 83340 • 208.726.5079 • 208.726.5092 Fax W W W. G A I L S E V E R N G A L L E R Y. C O M

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food&drink WHEN THE FARM COMES TO TOWN Farmers markets delight the senses, make economic sense BY JENNIFER LIEBRUM PHOTO BY DEV KHALSA

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he Wood River Valley offers copious opportunities for communing with nature, but nothing showcases the myriad reasons for planting roots here better than a farmers market. Starting in June, Ketchum will hold its market in a new location at the base of River Run at Bald Mountain on Tuesdays from 2-6 p.m. Hailey’s market will be at its old stomping grounds at the grassy lot north of Sturtevants off Main Street on Thursdays, at the same time. “Farmers Markets are a community gathering place that reconnect people with their food systems, something we have grown increasingly distant from,” explains Kelly Eisenbarger, Wood River Farmers Market Manager. “It’s a place where people can support their fellow community members and, in-turn, keep their hard-earned money in the towns and cities that they live.” Artisans of all make and model will have booths at either of the markets. Stroll the aisles of fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers and home-generated honey, cheese, eggs and meats. “I love it because it’s a great place for the community to gather and support local businesses,” says Sun Valley Community School music teacher, Megan Mahoney. “I always look forward to going to the market after work to pick up produce for the week, the occasional jewelry gift, and a cookie!” Drop by for a meal-on-the-go with prepared foods that include salads, soups, crackers, cookies, beef sliders, sauces and dinners. Vendors like Lava Lake Lamb can supply your dinner lamb and your dog treats. And if you are on the way to a dinner gathering,

GET IT FRESH Ketchum Farmers Market — ­ Every Tuesday at River Run, the base of Bald Mountain, 2:30 – 6 p.m. Hailey Farmers Market ­— Every Thursday on Main Street (the grassy lot just north of Sturtevants) in Hailey, 2 – 6 p.m.

choose a pick-up dessert from endless choices of delicious baked goods, pies and jams. Shopping for a unique party gift? There are also handmade hard goods like fleecewear from Kernworks; unique jewelry, shawls and clothing from Jam Designs; pottery; and loads of organic lotions and potions. “We are excited for the upcoming 2019 farmers market season. Both our Hailey and Ketchum locations have a lot of new local offerings this year!” Eisenbarger says. “Ketchum will have on-site pepper roasting (during season), fresh made ice cream, loads of fresh cut flowers, new bakery goods, including energy bars and much more.” Eisenbarger is also excited about the new location for Ketchum’s market. “The new location at the base of River Run offers beauty, space, parking, and a ton of activities to do while stopping by the market.” Regarding the south Valley market, Eisenbarger says, “Hailey’s market is growing with new farmers, crafters, and more ready-to eatlunch options.” Thank to a partnership with the Hunger Coalition and sponsors, including The Sage School, DL Evans Bank, NourishMe, and the Fresh Bucks program, the market will be accepting food stamps. In fact, users can double their money. Spend $20 on the Idaho Health and Welfare EBT card and get $4 while funds last to purchase fresh food. Adding to the flavor of the event, live musicians will provide the soundtrack for the afternoon. Bring your own bags and baskets; ride your bike in. Pack up a picnic to take to one of the multitude of free music venues around towns. Or, take a break from a work day and let someone else cook for you while you dine al fresco. As Eisenbarger says, “The farmers market is a one stop shop to truly support our local community and food culture.” Jessi Cyr Naumes, mother of three, and a long-time Wood River High School administrative assistant from Twin Falls who moved from the Valley last year said she plans to stock up on local fare when she visits in summer. “I love it, because they don’t have all my local favorites in California.”  2

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food&drink // potato vodka

PARTY WITH A PURPOSE Vodka producers combine philanthropy with high-quality liquor BY K ATE HULL

Josh Hanson and Kate Cullen of Party Animal Vodka.

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or Kate Cullen, co-owner with her business partner and fiancé Josh Hanson of Party Animal Vodka, what makes a good brand is all about a good story. Now in their second year of running the vodka brand that combines high-quality liquor with philanthropy, the couple has built a brand with a story worth telling. The idea for the Sun Valley vodka brand sprouted during Cullen’s college days at Chapman University in Orange, Calif. While thinking of her plans for the upcoming weekend, she found herself mulling over liquor companies and the lack of varieties she could enjoy that also had a mission she could get behind. “I realized there weren’t enough brands that related to the consumer and reminded me of myself,” said Cullen. “Today, millennials really want brands that stand for something and give back. I look for that when I shop, so I wanted to incorporate that into our product.” She put the idea on the backburner while pursuing her taxation degree. But, in 2016, when the young couple decided to move to Sun Valley, they felt the pull to start their own business. Why not start a vodka brand that’s fun, high quality, and socially conscious? Armed with these anchoring principles and an entrepreneurial spirit, Cullen and Hanson launched Party Animal Vodka in 2017. The Idaho, potato-made vodka holds its own with other name brands. However, with each purchase of Party Animal Vodka, 10 percent of the proceeds are donated to regional or national animal nonprofits, like the local humane society or broader scale wildlife foundations such as the Oceana Foundation. “I grew up with many dogs; I used to ride horses,” Cullen explained. “Animals are very near and dear to my heart. I kept ‘Party Animal Vodka’ as the name, because I am big into philanthropy and am a big animal lover, and I like that double entendre.” By Jan. 8, 2018, they had distilled their first batch at Distilled Resource—a distillery in Rexburg, Idaho, that produces private label, organic vodka from Idaho


Wake up and Live potatoes. The distillery also falls in line with their goals to be sustainable. “Distillery Resources is an eco-friendly distillery,” Hanson said. “Fifty percent of the power is wind and solar generated, and the water is sourced from the nearby Snake River Corridor, which is a great drinking water. Since vodka is 60 percent water, it makes for a really high-quality product.” Typical vodkas are distilled six or seven times to remove impurities and reach a palpable drinking level, but Party Animal Vodka is only distilled once. The byproduct from the potato mash is also recycled and given to nearby ranches as livestock feed. Having been on the market for over a year, Party Animal Vodka is now available at most bars, restaurants, and liquor stores in the Wood River Valley. “After a year and a few months in, it’s been really good, really hard, and really fun,” noted Cullen. And the reception, the couple says, has been enthusiastic. “In Idaho, the success rate of sales and the feedback has been unbelievable. People love the taste. They love the philanthropy of that,” Hanson added. “Idaho loves potatoes and animals.” Hanson described the vodka as “a nice warm hug.” He continued: “With potatoes, it actually gives it a slightly sweet taste, like cucumber or melon and even honey. When I taste it, I notice a slight sweetness, but with a really smooth and clean finish. Potatoes also dissipate quickly on the palate.” For now, Cullen and Hanson are focusing on one product, a straight potato vodka. “Our goal was to do one and do it right, while incorporating philanthropy and not losing sight of our mission,” Cullen said.  2

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Home of the Bowl of Soul TWO CONVENIENT VALLEY LOCATIONS

JAVA - HAILEY 111 1ST AVE. N. 208.788.2399

JAVA ON FOURTH - KETCHUM 191 4TH STREET WEST

208.726.2882

Try our Monkey Fries!

Best Deck in Town!

“Ketchum’s Killer Meal without the Killer Price A Great Kids' Menu Too!” Grill Open 11:30am - 10:00pm Daily (Bar open late) Burgers, Salads, Wings, Hoagies, Fresh Cut Fries and More! HD Satellite TV Sports “All the Games, All the Time”

For Takeout Call: 726.2744 231 6th Street, Ketchum at the corner of 6th & Washington


food&drink // dining guide  S P E C I A L

DINING AROUND TOWN A FAST GUIDE TO THE VALLEY’S BEST EATERIES

The culinary scene in the Wood River Valley continues to evolve and expand, offering new and exciting takes on everything from Pacific Northwest fare, to fine Continental, Mediterranean, French, Austrian, Asian, and traditional American offerings. Here we’ve provided a guide to some of the finest dining spots around town.

BREAKFAST & CAFES

BIG BELLY DELI Homemade soups, salads, and a variety of great sandwiches. Serving the Valley for over 15 years and rated #1 Best Sandwich Deli. Let us prove it, and your belly will thank you. 171 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.2411.

BIGWOOD BREAD Visit us at one of our spectacular locations, both featuring beautiful outdoor views, fantastic food and outstanding service. Our bakery café offers the customer a chance to see our bakers in action at our new 12,000-square-foot bakery. Our downtown location offers you the chance to be in the heart of the city’s bustle on the corner of East Street and Fourth Avenue. Fresh and homemade is how we do it! Downtown Café – 380 N. East Ave., Ketchum 208.928.7868; Bakery Café – 271 Northwood Way, Ketchum 208.726.2035.

PROMOTIONAL SECTION

locally grown produce. Our winter menu includes three hot soups daily, Indian curry and Southwest bowls, baked pizzas, superfood smoothies, pressed juices, and desserts. 380 Washington Ave. #105, Ketchum. 208.725.0314.

GRETCHEN’S Adjacent to the Sun Valley Lodge lobby, Gretchen’s Restaurant welcomes you with a relaxing indoor/outdoor feel with easy access for Terrace dining all day long. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner and full bar service. Sun Valley’s own Gretchen Fraser is the restaurant’s namesake, the first American to win an alpine Olympic gold medal. Sun Valley Lodge. 208.622.2144.

HAILEY COFFEE COMPANY Our café serves delicious gourmet espresso drinks and fresh baked goods from our on-site bakery. All of our coffees are fresh roasted in Hailey and our baked goods are served fresh from the oven. Fresh roasted beans, superior roasting techniques, a demand for quality, and a well-trained staff are some of the components that we believe truly create “The Cup of the Valley.” 219 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.8482.

exceed your expectations. Callie and Maeme Rasberry believe all the senses must be involved in meal preparation; therefore, the menu is eclectic, just like the chefs, with dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients when available and their own take on comfort and ethnic food. 411 Building, 5th St., Ketchum. 208.726.0606.

THE KNEADERY Established in 1974, The Kneadery combines wholesome fresh food with a rustic Idaho atmosphere. All meals start with the freshest ingredients: locally baked organic breads, farm-fresh, cage-free eggs, seasonal fruit and top-quality meats. From the huge omelets and pancakes, to the fresh salads and burgers, there’s something for everyone. 260 Leadville Ave. North, Ketchum. 208.726.9462.

TUNDRA A new addition to the thriving Hailey community. Tundra features a modern, stylish, clean and hip setting where breakfast, brunch, lunch and Lizzy’s Fresh Coffee can be found. 516 N Main St., Hailey. 208.928.4121.

INTERNATIONAL COWBOY COCINA

DELIS

International Cowboy Cocina is a cornerstone in the Hailey community and has been recognized for its outstanding American cuisine, excellent service and friendly staff. Our American restaurant is known for its modern interpretation of classic dishes and its insistence on only using high-quality fresh ingredients. 111 N. 1st Ave. Suite 1C, Hailey. 208.928.7009.

ATKINSONS’ MARKETS

JAVA COFFEE AND CAFÉ Truly a great coffeehouse! Baking from scratch daily. Serving the finest Fair Trade and organic coffees. Sound like a local and order the “Dirty Hippie Burrito” and a “Bowl of Soul.” Wake up and live! 191 4th St. W., Ketchum 726.2882, 111 N. 1st Ave., Hailey, 208.788.2297.

JERSEY GIRL

Atkinsons’ Markets, serving you and your family at our three locations in the Wood River Valley. 451 E. 4th St., Ketchum, 208.726.2681; 93 E. Croy St., Hailey, 208.788.2294. 757 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.788.7788.

WRAPCITY Wrapcity is fast, fresh, and fun food! Located next to the Kentwood Lodge on Main Street in Ketchum, Wrapcity serves up creative wraps and salads, homemade soups, and unique quesadillas. Wrapcity also serves breakfast wraps all day with special breakfast creations on Saturdays and Sundays. Voted “Valley’s Best Lunch” in 2011. 180 Main St. S., Ketchum, 208.727.6766.

Best sandwiches in town! 14 E. Croy St., Hailey. 208.788.8844.

PUBS & GRILLS

KONDITOREI

APPLE’S BAR AND GRILL

Lunch dishes range from pumpkin spatzle with sausage and apples to roasted chicken crepes with spinach and spicy Liptauer cheese. To satisfy sweet-tooth cravings or just to warm up on a chilly day, the café offers a full complement of artisanal coffee and hot chocolate drinks, plus house-baked European pastries. Sun Valley Resort, 208.622.2235.

Established over two decades ago, Apple’s Bar and Grill is still the best spot to fuel your body after a long day ripping turns on Baldy! Let Hank and Heather take care of all your needs. Kick back, enjoy a great meal and a pint of beer at one of the most spectacular mountain bar locations! 205 Picabo St. Ketchum 208.726.7067

PERRY’S

BIGWOOD GRILL

Cafe, bakery, and markete located in the heart of Hailey. 103 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.913.0263

Voted “Best of the Valley” by the Idaho Mountain Express readers numerous times for breakfast, lunch, and sandwiches, Perry’s Restaurant has been a Ketchum fixture for 26 years. 131 West 4th St., Ketchum. 208.726.7703.

GALENA LODGE

POOLSIDE CAFÉ

The Bigwood Grill is an outdoor restaurant with amazing views of Baldy, Warm Springs, Adams Gulch, The Boulders, and Boulder Peak. It’s open for lunch and dinner from June through late September. The Bigwood Grill features a full-service bar with daily Happy Hour drink and food specials from 3 – 5 p.m. 115 Thunder Spring Rd., Ketchum. 208.726.7067.

BLACK OWL CAFE Locally roasted, custom blended coffee brewed to perfection. Large selection of loose leaf tea. Home baked scones, muffins and breads. Breakfast and lunch. 208 N. River St., Hailey. 208.928.6200.

CAFE DELLA

The perfect place for a winter or summer outing. During the winter months Galena is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Cozy up by our fire and enjoy lunch, fresh baked goods, espresso drinks or a house made cocktail. Lunch served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. 15187 State Hwy 75, Ketchum. 208.726.4010.

Enjoy summer-fresh salads, sandwiches and flatbreads, as well as a full range of cocktails and beverages. Choose from light fare such as watermelon salad or spa Caesar to heartier fare like the Lodge burger or wild shrimp tacos and flatbread pizzas. Located in the Sun Valley Lodge. 208.622.2833.

GLOW LIVE FOOD CAFÉ

RASBERRYS

Glow is a plant-based and organic cafe and health food store. Glow specializes in delicious, plant-based foods, emphasizing

Whether you are seeking a quiet getaway place for lunch or want to host an elegant gathering for friends, Rasberrys will meet and

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ELKHORN CLUBHOUSE GRILL When summer hits, hit up the Elkhorn Clubhouse for lunch or early dinner, and recharge with a little Valley R&R. Dine inside for a touch of classic clubhouse ambience, or grab a table on the patio and breathe in the pristine Dollar Mountain view surrounded by the Elkhorn golf course. 100 Badeyana Dr., Sun Valley. 208.622.2820.


GRUMPY’S

THE MINT

It started as a place where the workingman and local could come, have a beer and burger and not be bothered. Today, Grumpy’s is a favorite of locals and visitors alike. We are a little hard to find, but not hard to find out about. Grumpy’s hosted Rachel Ray for a lunch segment on “40 Dollars a Day in Sun Valley” in 2004 and was most recently mentioned in USA Today’s “LIFE” section.. 860 Warm Springs Rd., Ketchum, no phone.

A warm inviting atmosphere with a comfortable approachable menu that embodies down-home cooking with an uptown feel and flavor. A gathering place for our community that brings vitality to the heart of our small town fostering a culture that becomes the go-to spot for locals and a destination for visitors. 116 Main St., Hailey. 208.788.6468.

LEFTY’S BAR & GRILL

Enjoy the neighborhood tavern feel of The Red Shoe while dining on local favorites that include a meatloaf sandwich, wild Alaskan sockeye salmon and braised pork ribs, not to mention the Idaho potato skins or pulled-pork nachos. 107 SH 75, Hailey. 208.788.5048.

Lefty’s has been a local and visitor favorite for more than 20 years, and for good reason. Lefty’s has a great casual dining menu, including killer burgers served on fresh-baked bread, monster hot sandwiches, wings, salads and our specialty, freshcut French fries. For families, Lefty’s has all the foods kids love, at a price you’ll love. There is no better place to watch sports than Lefty’s, whose motto is “All the games, all the time.” Live music. Great outdoor deck! 231 6th St. East, Ketchum, 208.726.2744.

MAHONEY’S The South Valley’s favorite spot for family-friendly food, Mahoney’s offers a full bar, a terrific deck that’s just a short stroll from Bellevue’s Howard Preserve and a tasty menu featuring their famous “Juicy Lucy” cheese-filled, grilled-onion-topped hamburger. 104 S. Main St. Bellevue. 208.788.4449.

POWER HOUSE Serving locally-raised Waygu beef burgers, blackened Ahi sandwiches and tacos, hand-cut fries, and organic salads with a wealth of beers on tap. 502 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.9184.

7 FUEGO 7 Fuego is a family-owned and operated “Baja” style BBQ grill located in the “historic” bank building in Bellevue. We specialize in slow-cooked tri-tip steak and various seafood items. Our name 7 Fuego is a reference to the way we use fire seven different ways to cook. Our unique blend of mesquite smoke, roasted peppers, and fresh citrus exemplifies the “Baja” flavor. 200 S. Main St., Bellevue. 208.788.1034.

SAWTOOTH BREWERY

THE RED SHOE

VILLAGE STATION Road-weary travelers of every age will find something to enjoy at Village Station. The train station-inspired décor pays tribute to Sun Valley’s history as an early destination on the Union Pacific railroad line. Enjoy a wide selection of cocktails and craft beer on tap, as well as a crowd-pleasing menu of classic American favorites: hearty cheeseburgers, chicken wings, pizza and familystyle salads. Sun Valley Village. 208.622.2143.

WARFIELD DISTILLERY & BREWERY Our chef keeps things simple and seasonal, letting the ingredients shine. The ever-changing menu brings you the best provisions from across the Northwest in our comfortable neighborhood pub setting. The best summer deck in town with fire pits and rocking chairs for comfort and conversation. 280 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.2739. MEXICAN

CHAPALITAS GRILL A family Mexican restaurant serving authentic dishes, including specialties such as pollo a la chapala, chicken carnitas, and huevos con chorizo. 200 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.928.7306.

DESPO’S

25 taps with beer, wine, cider, and kombucha on tap! Join us for the game on one of our big screen TV’s. We fill growlers, crowlers, and have kegs, bottles, and cans to go! NFL Sunday Ticket and NHL Center Ice for your viewing pleasure.110 N. River St., Hailey; 631 Warm Springs Rd., Ketchum. 208.726.6803.

A local favorite for over 25 years. Founder and owner Jim Funk is committed to authentic, delicious Mexican dishes that respect your desire for a healthy meal without compromising flavor. Offering fresh ingredients, high-quality, regionally-0sourced meats, daily specials, vegetarian selections, and three kinds of salsa made daily. 211 4th St. E., Ketchum. 208.726.3068.

THE CELLAR PUB

KB’S

The Cellar Pub serves the best pub food in the Sun ValleyKetchum area. From traditional pub fare such as buffalo burgers or fish & chips to original dishes such as our flat iron steak salad, we have something for everyone in your party. We have a full bar and feature a great selection of draft beer and fine wines. Whether you live in the area or are visiting for the first time, come on down to The Cellar Pub; we’d love to serve you. 400 Sun Valley Rd., Ketchum, 208.622.3832.

THE LIMELIGHT LOUNGE When late afternoon hits, we swing our doors wide open for guests and locals to dig into our friendly après food and drink specials. Our full dinner menu is available evenings in the Lounge, for in-room dining, or take-out. Enjoy a kid and dog friendly hotel with casual seating and live music. 151 South Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.0888.

The New York Times named KB’s as a must-stop in its article of top 10 things to do in 36 hours in Sun Valley. This cheerful, laidback burrito joint serves delicious fish tacos and offers a makeyour-own burrito, with a choice of 27 fillings. 260 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.928.6955; 121 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.7217.

LA CABANITA Only one way to put it… best authentic Mexican food in town. The town’s hidden gem that is truly a favorite. 160 W. 5th St., Ketchum. 208.725.5001; 745 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.928.7550.

LAGO AZUL Enjoy true Mexican food in downtown Hailey. Pollo rancherito, carne asada saran and “Sandy” tacos are house specialties not to be missed. 14 W. Croy St., Hailey. 208.578.1700. SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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food&drink // dining guide  S P E C I A L ITALIAN & PIZZA

DIVINE FOOD & WINE Voted the best wine bar in the Wood River Valley for the last three years, diVine offers wines by the glass, soups, salads, panini and gourmet pizzas. They also sell wines by the bottle to enjoy at home or in our restaurant or outdoor patio. And don’t miss the delicious fondue or gluten-free options. 111 N. 1st Ave., Hailey. 208.788.4422.

ENOTECA Ketchum’s newest gastronomic addition, with its upscale pizzeria and wine bar. Enoteca has a plethora of small plates to choose from. 300 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.928.6280.

IL NASO Owner Sam Turner invites you to enjoy his warm, inviting restaurant with Italian-influence cuisine. Il Naso is special whether you drop by to have a burger and beer at the wine bar, or to relax in the candlelit dining room. The extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff will help you choose just the right bottle to enhance your dining experience. Large parties welcome. 480 Washington Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.7776.

RICO’S Founded in 1982 by Rico and Amy Albright, RICO’S features starters, soups, salads, over 20 signature pastas, handpicked nightly specials, calzones and 11 specialty hand-tossed brickoven pizzas. 200 Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.7426.

ROMINNA’S Rominna’s is the place for casual dining in Ketchum with spectacular views and a glorious deck. Since 2013, we have been offering contemporary Italian cuisine prepared to the highest standards. Our premium wine selection includes more than 150 wines to pair with any course. Reservations are highly recommended. 580 Washington St., Ketchum. 208.726.6961.

SMOKY MOUNTAIN PIZZERIA & GRILL From just humble beginnings in Ketchum back in 1992, Smoky Mountain Pizzeria & Grill has grown—and for good reason. Our fresh, handcrafted food is what brings people in, and our service is what keeps them coming back for more. We pride ourselves on creating a “nourishing and memorable neighborhood experience that people love!” 200 Sun Valley Rd., Ketchum. 208.622.5625. ASIAN/SUSHI

DANG’S THAI CUISINE Also known as “Dang Good,” Dang’s Thai Cuisine is a favorite among the locals! Dang’s offers a wide selection of popular dishes ranging from sushi, green papaya salad, pad thai, and their famous green curry with chicken! If you like spicy food, don’t forget to ask for the little jars of sambal and Thai chili sauce! Highly recommend as an affordable, flavorful and fun experience in Hailey! 310 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.928.7111.

PROMOTIONAL SECTION

the flavors and foods in locales such as Thailand, Vietnam, China, and Indonesia. 460 N. Washington Ave., Ketchum, 208.726.8481.

restaurant is a culinary destination not to be missed. Serviced by the Roundhouse Gondola, the restaurant offers spectacular views of the Valley. Bald Mountain, Ketchum. 208.622.2012.

SUSHI ON SECOND

SUN VALLEY CLUB

Established in 1994, Sushi on Second is the Valley’s oldest sushi restaurant. But don’t let age fool you. Head sushi chefs John Rust and Ross Bird are at the center of a talented crew of sushi chefs that delight in creating dishes that are as appetizing to look at as they are to eat. Nightly food, wine and sake specials, 20-seat sushi bar, cozy booths and two private tatami rooms. 260 Second St., Ketchum. 208.726.5181.

ZOU 75 Rediscover this Main Street gem in downtown Hailey! Zou 75 is your destination for more than great Asian fusion, sushi and seafood selections. With fresh fish flown in several times a week straight from Honolulu, Hawaii, you can always count on the best in quality and freshness. With a martini/wine bar, two private rooms and take-out party platters of all sizes, Zou 75 is the perfect choice for your next dining event. 416 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.3310.

A warm and inviting atmosphere with a comfortable and approachable menu that embodies down-home cooking with an uptown feel and flavor. 116 Main St., Hailey. 208.788.6468.

THE PIONEER SALOON

MEDITERRANEAN

TOWN SQUARE TAVERN

THE RAM

Town Square Tavern, established in June 2015, is a gathering place in the center of Ketchum, serving fresh and inspired world cuisine. With flavors inspired by the Mediterranean regions stretching from the Middle East, to North Africa, to Spain, Italy and France, there is something sure to please everyone’s palate. 360 East Ave. N., Ketchum. 208.726.6969. REGIONAL NORTHWEST

DUCHIN LOUNGE All new and inviting, this legendary lounge serves up cocktails, imported beer and an extensive wine list. Now you can also duck in for a quick bite from our lounge menu. Sun Valley Lodge, 208.622.2145.

GRILL AT KNOB HILL The environment at the Knob Hill Inn is casual and comfortable, yet sophisticated, with distinctively Northwest cuisine, and a variety of American and European classics. A top local favorite! 960 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.8004.

IDAHO ROCKY MOUNTAIN RANCH Our menu is driven by the food we love: casual, honest, and with a bit of surprise while using the best local Idaho and Northwest bounty and seasonal specialties. Reservations are required. Located 9 miles south of Stanley on SH 75. 208.774.3544.

Sun Valley’s original restaurant, The Ram has been warming and welcoming diners since 1937. This rustic-yet-elegant dinner house has been recently modernized, while still preserving its historic charm. Travel back in time with the nightly “Heritage Menu”—a series of historic dishes such as pork tenderloin schnitzel, Hungarian goulash, and the famous Ram fondue— resurrected from the restaurant’s long and storied culinary tradition. Located in the Sun Valley Inn. 208.622.2225.

THE SAWTOOTH CLUB Always busy with a great mix of locals and visitors, The Sawtooth Club offers a unique blend of American steakhouse classics, fresh seafood, wild game, unique pasta dishes and much more. The Sawtooth Club has been recognized in a local reader’s poll as “The Valley’s Best Overall Restaurant” in five different years. 231 North Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.5233.

TRAIL CREEK CABIN Trail Creek Cabin is Sun Valley’s destination for romantic dining in a rustic, early-Western atmosphere. . Accessible by sleigh or car, Trail Creek Cabin is the perfect winter backdrop for a delicious seasonal menu, which includes Hagerman Valley Idaho Ruby Trout, Buffalo Tenderloin and Trail Creek New York Strip. 300 Trail Creek Rd., Sun Valley. 208.622.2019.

VINTAGE

KETCHUM GRILL

A favorite of the locals, chef Rodrigo Herrera is tuned into the best of the season’s offerings. With a lovely ambiance, both inside and seasonally outside, Vintage offers a dining experience like one would have in France: leisurely, lively, and without pretension. 231 Leadville Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.9595.

For nearly 22 years, Ketchum Grill has brought your dining experience to the highest gastronomical level, and the best Idaho has to offer. 520 East Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.4660.

WOOD RIVER SUSTAINABILITY CENTER

ROUNDHOUSE

Serving “ethnic street foods,” as chef Andreas Heaphy likes to say, Rickshaw has been well received by locals, visitors and critics alike. Creative, fresh, small plates are inspired by

Perched midway up Bald Mountain on the River Run side, the Roundhouse was built in 1939 by Sun Valley’s founding father, Union Pacific Railroad Chairman Averell Harriman. Today this

sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2019

THE MINT

If you haven’t been to the Pioneer Saloon, you haven’t been to Ketchum! The Pioneer Saloon, renowned for perfectly aged, tender and flavorful beef, is typical of an earlier Idaho where ore wagons rattled down Main Street and business was done with a handshake and a drink. 320 N. Main St, Ketchum. 208.726.3139.

RICKSHAW

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The Sun Valley Club has all the trappings of an exclusive golf club, without any of the barriers: Everyone is welcome at the table. Among the most popular places in Sun Valley to eat, drink and relax, the wraparound terrace offers stunning views of Bald Mountain, Dollar Mountain and the 18-hole Sawtooth Putting Course. The Sun Valley Club brings exciting, contemporary dishes that are focused on local ingredients and big flavors. 1 Trail Creek Rd., Sun Valley. 208.622.2919.

The Wood River Sustainability Center stocks “beyond organic” grass-fed lamb and beef, along with pork, eggs, wild Alaskan salmon, sausages, local produce, and bakery and dairy products. Serving fresh and delicious lunch options Monday through Saturday. 308 S. River St., Hailey. 208.721.3114.


G E T A T A S T E O F S U N V A L L E Y. O V E R 2 0 D I V E R S E R E S T A U R A N T S , F R O M F A M I LY - F R I E N D LY T O F I N E D I N I N G

s u n v a l l e y. c o m / d i n i n g c a l l 2 0 8 . 6 2 2 . 2 8 0 0 f o r re s e r v at i o n s


weddings

ALLI & GARDIE BY K ATE HULL

F

or New Yorkers Alli Shepherd and Gardie Ashforth, their September wedding day was a celebration centered on family and a gorgeous setting. Intimate family-focused touches, gorgeous early fall weather, and nonstop dancing rounded out the day. The pair met through mutual friends on a roof-top party in the city, and got engaged during the first snowfall of the season on a dock overlooking the Hudson River. It’s no wonder that for their nuptials they gravitated toward incorporating scenic landscapes and lovely vistas into saying “I do.” Their ceremony took place outside of Roundhouse Restaurant on Bald Mountain with views of the Valley below, with a reception following at River Run Lodge. “Sun Valley is such a special place, we really wanted our guests to feel like they were able to enjoy the beautiful surroundings

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while also celebrating,” Alli noted. Their families played a big part in the celebration. Alli’s grandfather officiated the ceremony, and Gardie’s cousins gave readings with a surprise harmonica accompaniment. Bridesmaids wore a kaleidoscope of blues with varying patterns carrying bouquets by Tara Bella Flowers. The groomsman looked dapper in navy suits. The newlyweds kicked off the dance floor with a festive first-dance to “Come and Get Your Love” by Redbone and danced the night away to Diamond Empire Band. After, the guests were gifted blue and white bandanas printed with a hand drawn map made my Gardie’s artist mother. Then, Gardie and Allie headed to Jackson Hole, Wyo., for a getaway at Triangle X Ranch. Their official honeymoon came later in December to Thailand.  2


THE TEAM Photographer Cheatwood Photography Planner Taylor Holden; Londyn & Grey Venue Bald Mountain & River Run Lodge Catering Sun Valley Resort Flowers Tara Bella Flowers Dress Lela Rose Hair The Third Floor Salon Makeup Leah Webber, Bare Sun Valley Music Diamond Empire Band

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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weddings

BROOKE & BROOKS BY K ATE HULL

B

rooke Camps and Brooks Pierce met while at a small bank in Winston-Salem, N.C., where they were completing a risk assessment course. Commuting to and from Charlotte, their chemistry grew and a relationship sprouted. Both in finance careers, Brooke and Brooks enjoy the outdoors in their spare time and built a relationship with a mutual appreciation for recreating in the mountains,

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whether fly fishing, hiking, or skiing. Brooks proposed while on a hike during a weekend getaway to his parents’ mountain house in Blowing Rock, N.C. When they tied the knot last June, they knew they wanted to say, “I do,” in the mountains, and Sun Valley was just the right fit. Their ceremony and reception was held at Witmer Estate with serene views for a perfect mountain-town celebration. “We

focused on details that highlighted the natural beauty of the outdoors—Ketchum was our showpiece,” Brooke recalled. They punctuated a festive reception with music by The Groove Merchants and a bourbon bar. “There was an energy of love and happiness that I can’t even begin to put into words,” she added. After the wedding, the couple headed to explore Paris, Sardinia, and Zermatt.  2


THE TEAM Photographer Dev Khalsa Planner Heather Minor Events Venue Witmer Estate Catering CK’s Makeup Britt Davis Music Jimmy Mitchell (ceremony) / The Groove Merchants (reception)

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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weddings

Miller’s Limo “the silver standard”

JESSICA & ADAM BY K ATE HULL

J

essica Traver, originally from Southern California, spent her childhood coming to Sun Valley every year with her family. She began dating Indiana-native Adam Ingram while studying at Purdue and a romance began. Both lovers of the outdoors, she couldn’t wait to show him Sun Valley. He instantly fell in love with the town. After Adam proposed and it was time to plan the big day, there was no question where they would have their celebration: Sun Valley. The pair was wed at Trail Creek Cabin at Sun Valley Resort with the ceremony on the upper lawn and cocktail hour and reception on the lower lawn in an elegant outdoor tent. Jessica wore a stunning Oscar de la Renta gown with floral detailing and carried a chic bouquet by Tara Bella Flowers. Her groom wore a sleek black suit and bowtie. Jessica arrived at the ceremony by horse-drawn wagon adding to the perfectly rustic romance ambiance of the entire evening. They celebrated with their guests with dinner, drinks, and dancing after. The tabletops dawned vibrant bouquets and lavender linens topped with greenery accents. One of the couple’s favorite details was the beautiful florals. Adam and Jessica made their exit down a sparkler-lit aisle. Jessica wore a special hand beaded and appliqued denim jacket her mother made using flowers from her gown, ending an incredible night of celebrating with friends and family. The newlyweds honeymooned after the big day with a fourweek adventure to Southeast Asia.  2

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THE TEAM Photographer Hillary Maybery Planner Heather Minor Events Venue Trail Creek Cabin Catering Sun Valley Resort Flowers Tara Bella Flowers Dress Oscar de la Renta Hair Georgia Gelder Makeup Britt Davis Band No Limits Quartet Impresario Quartet DJ Nathan Hudson

SUMMER 2019 | sunvalleymag.com

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PHOTO: HILLARY MAYBERY

P

rimavera

SUN VALLEY’S FINEST FLORIST Since 1973

CUSTOM WEDDING AND FLORAL DESIGN 511 Leadville Avenue • Ketchum • 208-726-7788 www.primaverasunvalley.com

CHRISTINE MARIE PHOTOGRAPHY

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TWIG AND OLIVE PHOTOGRAPHY

WEDDING AND EVENT COORDINATOR

208.720.4713

amandaseaward.com amanda@amandaseaward.com

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Your happily ever after begins here...

S U N V A L L E Y. C O M / W E D D I N G S • W E D D I N G S @ S U N V A L L E Y. C O M • ( 2 0 8 ) 6 2 2 - 2 0 4 7

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OUT FOR A WALK

Sandhill cranes in The Nature Conservancy’s Fish Creek Ranch / P H O T O B Y S T E V E D O N D E R O 104

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Sun Valley | Waimea dereusarchitects.com

connecting to place


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