Sun Valley Magazine

riggins | water sports | boat named alice | aquatic birds | fly fishing favorites

Summer/Fall 2011

9

kayak addicts

idaho’s best paddlers

www.sunvalleymag.com

The W ater issue the west’s most precious resource

largest land debate

Jon Marvel’s Western Watersheds Project

the salmon river The Wild Soul of Idaho

11 Water Bottle Basics 7 River Companies 3 Trout Friendly Lawn Tips 2 Dream Weddings

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Robinson Bar Ranch – Stanley, Idaho

The 26-year residence of singer Carole King, this historic ranch is a 128± acre Forest Service inholding perched above the Salmon River with Warm Springs Creek flowing through. The property includes a beautifully restored 7,335± sq. ft. lodge, owner’s residence, caretaker’s home, guest cabins, equestrian facilities, greenhouse and a professional recording studio. It features complete solitude, stunning views, geothermal hot springs pools, and great trout fishing. $16,000,000.

Moose Creek Ranch – Mackay, Idaho

Featuring 3/4 mile of both sides of the Big Lost River, this beautiful 500± acre ranch, only a 1 1/2 hour drive from Sun Valley, is among the valley’s premier trout fishing properties. Two attractively furnished fishing cabins nestled in a secluded cottonwood setting offer huge views of Idaho’s highest peaks, while the river’s riffles, runs and deep holes are home to rainbows exceeding 20”. $2,800,000.

Alder Creek Ranch – Mackay, Idaho

Occupying its own mountain valley, the spectacular 820± acre Alder Creek Ranch features first-class improvements, national forest boundary, big mountain views to the east and west, and a trout stream running the length of the property. The ranch is just 10 minutes to Mackay and less than an hour and a half to Sun Valley year-round. $4,000,000.

EE DA HO Ranch – Sun Valley, Idaho

Just 10 minutes from Sun Valley’s airport, encompassing its own canyon adjacent to public lands, this stunning 1,550± acre ranch instills a sense of being a world away. An outstanding set of improvements includes a 5,885± sq. ft. owner’s residence, manager’s home, employee housing, horse barn, and cattle handling facilities. It also boasts a spring creek system feeding several trout-filled lakes. $19,000,000.

Swiftsure Ranch – Sun Valley, Idaho

Just south of Bellevue, this gorgeous property features 190± acres with extensive frontage on the Big Wood River, one of Idaho’s best known trout streams. Improvements include a ranch house, caretaker’s home, and horse facilities. The ranch adjoins BLM lands and enjoys incredible mountain and water views with a mix of irrigated hay meadows, wetlands, and aspen groves offering total privacy. $4,500,000.

Davis Land & Livestock – Ironside, Oregon

Owned and operated by the same family for over 80 years, this reputation ranch runs across 32,500± contiguous, deeded acres and is highly regarded for its privacy, careful management, extensive grazing resources, and big game and upland bird hunting that is unrivaled in the Northwest. Located 35 miles north of Vale, Oregon and 1.5 hours northwest of Boise, Idaho. $13,500,000.

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contents // features

70

56

The Salmon River is the wild soul of the great state of Idaho. Adam Tanous pays homage to the “River of No Return.” by adam tanous

64

Fish Food

Trout dine on a variety of bug life—four Wood River Valley fly fishing guides share stories about their favorite fish food. photography by nick price

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Kayak Addicts

Whitewater runs through the veins of many Idahoans. Canoe & Kayak Magazine editor and Idaho native, Joe Carberry, profiles some of the best kayakers from around the Gem State. by joE carberry

80

Riggins: A Classic River Town There’s something magical about river towns and Riggins, Idaho, is no exception.

by mike mckenna photography by matthew hayes on the cover

Local paddler, Henry Munter, see story page 70. photographed by Evan ross

12 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

ryan casey: mike reid / pale morning dun: nick price / riggins: matthew hayes

Carved By Water

117 52

86

25 Local Buzz

Written in Water History of the West Summer Art Scene Water-inspired art Alice the Kayak Local inventor Saving Silver Creek Preserve turns 35 Calendar What’s happening this summer

37

Body & Soul

The Drinking Game Bottled water basics Bodies of Water H2O and human health Trout Friendly Impacts on the river Healing Waters Finding Higher Ground

47

Get Out There

New River Academy A cool school Hot Springs The state of soaking Get Wet Sports Places to play Paddling Boards and kayaks 14 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

48 86 Topics of Conservation The ins and outs of aquatic bird watching.

by hailey tucker

94 Profile: Jon Marvel The man behind the Western Watersheds Project. by clarence stilwill

100 Food Recipes from the river and the sea.

104 Kids Pages The adventures of Riley Berman. by dan gorham

117 Wedding Bliss A sneak peek into two stunning Idaho Weddings: Jessica Stoecklein and Rich DeFelice; Lisa Firestone and Caspar von Winterfeldt.

126 Wedding Directory Resources and Contacts

94

Also in This Issue

18 From the Editor 20 Contributors 62 River Guide Listings 113 Gifts & Gear 130 Galleries & Artists 136 Gallery/Restaurant Map 137 Restaurant Guide

wedding: hillary maybery / wake surfer: courtesy inland surfer / blue heron: gregory johnston new river academy: courtesy / jon marvel: matthew hayes

contents // departments

Mimili Maku

Harvey Art Projects USA proudly presents selected paintings by Mimili Maku Artists of South Australia

Aboriginal Art in America

391 1st Ave North, Ketchum 208.309.8676 www.harveyartprojects.com

Tuppy Goodwin, Untitled, 66” x 42 ½”, acrylic on linen, 2010

VIP Collector Preview June 24 Opening Reception Gallery Walk Friday, July 1st This is Mimili Maku Artists very first exhibit in the USA

contents // online

{ www.sunvalleymag.com }

HOME ARTS DINING COMMUNITY WELLNESS RECREATION REAL ESTATE PAST ISSUES RESOURCES WEDDINGS BLOGS

home and garden

When you want more, visit www.sunvalleymag.com for in-depth stories, multimedia features, local color and resources.

Record high water on the North Fork of the Payette!

web extras

Valley Calendar Wondering what to do?

Check out our jam-packed online Calendar first.

Get more . . .

Stories Best-selling author and attendee at last year’s Sun Valley Writers’ Conference, Steve Almond, shares an original short story about the ghost of Ezra Pound.

Tripping around Sun Valley with local guide book author Matt Leidecker.

More bugs of fly fishing, including Silver Creek Outfitters’ Dave Faltings’ favorite!

Follow us on Facebook and Twitter for more cool happenings in and around Sun Valley.

Check out your weekly Horrorscope from Clouds AQUARIUS every Monday afternoon!

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Profiles of some of the Western Watershed Projects.

The history of the Sun Valley Center for the Arts Wine Auction.

Yum! | A Blog About Food Whether you want to grow and harvest, or simply prepare and enjoy, Yum is all about food and the role it plays in our lives.

By Lynea newcomer

Hitched | Planning Your Big Day Everything you need to know to plan your dream wedding, from an honest and funny first-person perspective.

By charlotte hemmings

Fetch | For the Love of Pets About all things feathery and furry, scaled and four-legged, Fetch gives tips and tells tales about how to keep your pet of choice healthy and happy. By jenna resko Local Buzz | Who What Where & Wow! Photos and write ups on what’s happening every week in the Valley. By hailey tucker

Videos Gerry Moffatt’s first descent in Bhutan, “Be First” by First Ascent Video.

Clips from the National Geographic channel’s “Great Migrations” series shot

by Ketchum local Bob Poole.

Galleries Catch more of Sun Valley Magazine’s world-class photography, including: the bugs of fly fishing; Riley Berman’s epic adventure; New River Academy; and gorgeous Sun Valley weddings.

Gone Fishing | Life on and off the waters of the Wood River Valley Selected by the Idaho Press Club as the Best Blog for 2010, Gone Fishing features humorous and hopeful articles on everything from fly fishing to local war heroes to bumbling one’s way through parenthood. By mike mckenna

wildwater / first ascent

Local Resources Menus and restaurant reviews at your fingertips...We’ve made dining out in the Valley a whole lot easier. Browse menus of nearly 100 local restaurants or read reviews and profiles in our weekly Yum blog.

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Despite my mountain roots, l am a beach girl at heart, having grown up on and in the water. I was the kid that would play in the waves at Del Mar until my lips were blue and the beach chairs were packed and headed for home. One of my fondest early memories is of damp and misty mornings waking in the predawn darkness and stepping into the surf off San Diego with my father and older brother. I have many times experienced the crushing crash of a shore break, swam out of rip tides and ridden countless waves in a moment of pure joy. I have gone “over the falls” too many times to remember and have even crossed the Pacific Ocean on a sailboat (from Panama to Tahiti), a tiny point in a vast ocean. But it was a week on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River as a young teenager that brought the sheer power of water solidly home to me.

I was maybe 14 years old and midway through our first family trip down the Middle Fork in inflatable kayaks when, with one misplaced stroke, my sister and I were instantly swept down the wrong side of a raging rapid of roiling holes that left her bobbing like a toy duckie in the whitewater and me stuck in a furious hydraulic without a paddle. My boat flipped and after many attempts to swim out of the curling hole, I was pulled to the bottom of the river (I have a distinct picture of my boat and a massive rock high above me). It seemed like an eternity, but passed in a matter of seconds.

I eventually popped up to the surface and managed to swim the rest of the rapid before being pulled to the safety of another boat. But it was in that single moment that the authority and raw power of all that water rushing over rock and canyon wall solidified. The entire river was in a wild and all but foolish race to the sea—a force simply awesome in its fury and beautiful in its certainty.

Water is life giving. It can also be life threatening—witness the news of rivers flooding their banks or the massive destruction of the recent tsunami in Japan. A basic necessity, water is essential to life. A person can live for up to a month without food. But after only a few days without water (depending on conditions and exertion level), the human body is rendered lifeless.

Vital to our existence in the Western states, water is often in short supply and, as such, is weighed and analyzed in every form—cubic feet per second (cfs), percentage of snowpack, flow rate—all of which is measured and compared, one year against another to evaluate against the average. The end goal: A pure calculation of the wealth of our resource.

In tribute to the power and importance of this element in our lives, this entire issue is dedicated to Water, starting with our relationship with it—both personal (see: Body & Soul or Get Out There) and political (see: Written in Water on page 25 or Saving Silver Creek on page 31). Read about Jon Marvel, the man behind the Western Watersheds Project, and meet nine kayak addicts who hail from the Gem State but have achieved fame in their sport with first descents all over the world—then go online to experience it first hand through video and additional photo galleries.

Follow author Adam Tanous as he takes readers on a journey through time along the course of the Salmon River and deep into the heart of the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness or explore the unique character of Riggins, a classic Idaho river town defined by the water flowing along its banks.

Our state has literally been carved by water—the Snake, Loscha, Clearwater, Owyhee and the infamous Salmon—and part of our history, and so much of our future, will be written in water, our relationship with it and use of it. Dive in, get wet and enjoy these Idaho stories—The Water Issue, The West’s Most Precious Resource.

laurie sammis, editor-in-chief

18 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

kevin syms

from the editor // insight

matthew hayes (Riggins: A Classic Town, pg. 80, and Jon Marvel, pg. 94) a Bay Area, CA native, left home at 18 to work as a fishing guide in Southern Idaho. Between fishing seasons, he attended the University of Montana where he studied journalism and photography. Hayes began working as a freelance photographer in 2004 and now covers assignments for editorial, commercial and private clients while also exhibiting his work in the fine art world. When not photographing, he’s often fishing or in the darkroom. He is currently based in Hailey and is represented

by Wonderful Machine.

Adam tanous (Carved By Water, pg.

56) first swam his way out of a kayak when he was a spindly 16-year-old running the Rogue River. Decades later, he has yet to shake the affliction of rivers and all that they entail.

Along the way, he was educated at Stanford University, where he earned a degree in chemical engineering, and the University of Virginia, where he completed an MFA program in fiction writing and literature.

Adam has worked for many years in Idaho as a writer, guide, and ski patrolman. Currently, he is the director of marketing for Raydiance, a company commercializing femtosecond laser technology.

jody orr (Body and Soul, pg. 37) first visited Ketchum when she was just 10 (the year isn’t really important, is it?) and knew even then it was her destiny to live there. In 1999 she moved to Ketchum for the oldest and dumbest reason in the book— L.O.V.E. Today she resides in Boise and writes freelance magazine pieces and for the occasional website.

Jody earned her Bachelor’s degree in journalism a millennium ago and her Master’s shortly thereafter. She’s worked in newspaper, marketing and retail sales (aka waitressing).

Jody lives with her husband (yes, it’s the same guy), two kids and her beloved Labrador, Rose.

nick price (Fish Food, pg. 62) is a fly fishing guide and photographer.

He studied fiction writing at the University of Montana and came to photography later. He lives in Hailey with his wife, two sons and English setter.

To see more of his work visit www.nickpricephotography.com.

Congratulations to regular contributor Patti Murphy for her article “Idaho Basque Tables” from Summer 2010, which was awarded First Place, Magazine Serious Feature from the Idaho Press Club.

Landscape design speciaLists

1/2 Page Horizontal

HOME

indoor pLants • garden furniture gifts and accessories

GARDEN

Landscaping services • pavers • pottery sprinkLer systems • Hardy nursery stock

7 7 1 n o r t H m a i n s t r e e t, B e L L e v u e • 2 0 8 . 7 8 8 . 3 5 3 3 • o p e n y e a r - r o u n d 20 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

courtesy: matthew hayes / courtesy adam tanous / courtesy jody orr / courtesy nick price

contributors // writers & photographers

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s u mm e r 2 0 1 1 publisher/editor in chief Laurie C. Sammis

associate publisher/ circulation director Laurie Christian managing editor Mike McKenna art director Robin Moore Leahy production director Julie Molema graphic designer Cara Shumate staff writer Hailey Tucker

copy editor Patty Healey Brooke Pace McKenna

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SHOWCASE

It is here where inspiration comes from the commitment to honor a legacy. Innovation stemming from a need to embody all that is exceptional in the world of real estate and beyond. Utilizing all that is current to present a home in a most unique way.

Without fanfare , but with grace , allowing all that is stunning about a home to be revealed with discreetness.

contributing editors Carrie Lightner

advertising sales Laurie Christian Laurie Sammis

controller Linda Murphy Sun Valley Magazine Online www.sunvalleymag.com e-mail: info@sunvalleymag.com 2011 MAGGIE AWARDS

WESTERN PUBLICATIONS ASSOCIATION

Best Semi-Annuals/Trade & Consumer Finalist Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer Finalist

2010 OZZIE and EDDIE AWARDS

Gold Winner for circulation less than 6 times per year, full issue—Summer 2010

2010 Idaho Press Club

Best Magazine Serious Feature—“Idaho Basque Tables,” Summer 2010 Best Blog—“Gone Fishing”

s u n v a l l e y s i r. c o m S u n Va l l e y S o t h e b y ’s In te r n at i on a l R e a l t y 2 9 1 N Ma i n St re e t | Ke t c hu m , Id a h o 8 3 3 4 0 p 208.726.5300 | f 208.726.431

2010 MAGGIE AWARDS

WESTERN PUBLICATIONS ASSOCIATION

Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Consumer Magazine Finalist

2009 MAGGIE AWARDS

WESTERN PUBLICATIONS ASSOCIATION

Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Consumer Magazine

2008 OZZIE and EDDIE AWARDS

Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity.

Eddie Award, Editorial Content—Summer 2008

Ozzie, Best Use of Photography—“Spirit Messengers”, Summer 2008 Sun Valley Magazine® (ISSN 1076-8599) is published quarterly, with a special annual HOME edition, by Mandala Media LLC. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices are located at 111 North First Avenue, Suite 1M, Hailey, Idaho 83333. Telephone: 208.788.0770; Fax: 208.788.3881.

Mailing address: 111 North First Avenue, Suite 1M, Hailey, Idaho 83333. Sun Valley Magazine. Copyright ©2011 by Mandala Media LLC. Subscriptions: $22 per year, single copies $5.95.

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The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Sun Valley Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher. Our printer is SFI- and FSC-certified. Paper used contains fiber from wellmanaged forests and meets EPA guidelines that recommend a minimum 10% post-consumer recovered fiber for coated papers. Inks used contain a percentage of soy base. Our printer meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act (RCRA) standards.

Postmaster please send address changes to: Sun Valley Magazine, 111 North First Avenue, Suite 1M, Hailey, ID 83333

208.726.8888 2 night / 3 day getaways available for 2011 on the legendary Middle Fork of the Salmon River • www.far-away.com

Printed in the U.S.A. CORRECTION: The photo on page 39 from Winter 2011 was incorrectly captioned as being part of CrossFit.

22 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

julie Speidel Victoria Adams • Nicolas Africano • Bo Bartlett • Tony Berlant • Squeak Carnwath ‘ Cobo • James Cook • David deVillier • Betsy Eby • Raphaelle Goethals Linda Christensen • Jose ••

Morris Graves • Michael Gregory • Michele Haglund • Jonathon Hexner • Jun Kaneko • Judith Kindler Gary Komarin • Hung Liu • Lynda Lowe • Laura McPhee • Cole Morgan • Kenna Moser • Gwynn Murrill ‘ Ed Musante • Marcia Myers • Carolyn Olbum • Deborah Oropallo • Luis Gonzalez Palma • Robert Polidori

Christopher Reilly • Rene Rickabaugh • Will Robinson • Jane Rosen • Brad Rude • David Secrest Jack Spencer • Mark Stasz • Therman Statom • Allison Stewart • Theodore Waddell

Gail Severn Gallery 400 First Avenue North • P.O. Box 1679 • Ketchum, ID 83340 208.726.5079 • fax 208.726.5092 • info@gailseverngallery.com WWW.GAILSEVERNGALLERY.COM

Yes it’s breathtaking. Yes it’s historic... but it’s also a pretty clever way to get the grand kids to visit more often.

Kootenai Lodge Main Hall

Russell Cabin

Tucked away in Montana’s Flathead Valley, there lies an amazing wonderland. Minutes from the charming village of Bigfork and close to Glacier National Park, this hidden preserve where Swan Lake, Johnson Creek and Swan River meet is a place more often found in the pages of a storybook.

Among high trees and billowing knolls, there are luxuriously restored cabin homes, the grand and historic Kootenai Lodge, a lagoon-style pool and a Nature Center staffed by our Recreation Director to help plan your fishing, mountain biking, hiking, sledding, rafting, kayaking and myriad of other under-the-sun excursions. It is a place to relax and recharge. To reconnect with loved ones. It is a place to gather friends and family…not to mention memories.

It is one of the most beautiful and exclusive lakeside residential enclaves in all of the West...and it is a place called Kootenai.

Please visit TheKootenai.com or call Jeff Wirth at 406-837-3000 to request a complimentary copy of our 52-page magazine, The Kootenai Experience.

TheKootenai.com Fully Furnished Cabin Homes from $3 to $7 Million. ◆

This material is intended to encourage the sale of real property at the Kootenai, Lake County, Montana. This material does not constitute an offer to sell nor a solicitation to buy in any state where registration is required if such registration requirements have not been fulfilled. Each office is independently owned and operated. The developer reserves the right to change floorplans, elevations, amenities and specifications without prior notice or obligation. Final construction documents will be available with contracts.

26//written in water A brief history of the West

28//summer art scene

LOCAL BUZZ

Water-inspired art

30//alice the kayak Local inventor

31//saving silver creek Preserve turns 35

32//calendar

todd owyoung, www.ishootshows.com

What’s happening this summer

Michael Franti is looking forward to playing at River Run this summer on August 15th.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 25

While scholars and politicians don’t always agree with Marc Reisner’s take on the history of water in the West, no one argues about his book’s entertainment value.

Cadillac Desert: The American West and Its Disappearing Water (Penguin Books, revised 1993) was first published in 1986 to glowing reviews and was named to the Modern Library’s Top 100 non-fiction books of the 20th century.

Newsweek calls it “the definitive work on the West’s water crisis” and describes Reisner as “savagely witty.” The highly entertaining read is even a bit scandalous at times. Like when Reisner explains the infamous Teton Dam collapse, which ravaged Rexberg and literally wiped the tiny Idaho town of Wilford off the map.

written in water

Water, like the crystal clear Middle Fork of the Salmon, is the most precious resource of the West.

A brief history of water in the West with Prof. David Kennedy “One of the defining characteristics of the West is that it is, by and large, an arid region,” explained David M. Kennedy, the Donald J. McLachlan Professor of History at Stanford University and 2010 Sun Valley Writer’s Conference attendee.

While gold has garnered more headlines and sparkles more brightly in the minds of man, water has always been the most precious and important resource in the Western United States. And referring to the 11 states that make up the region as “arid” may actually be an understatement.

As Professor Kennedy graciously explained between classes at Stanford’s Palo Alto, California, campus, outside of some mountainous areas of the Rockies, Sierra and Cascades, most of the West averages less than 20 inches of rainfall per year.

“Water is the central most important issue in the region and it has long been misunderstood,” said Professor Kennedy, who then pointed out that this misunderstanding goes all the way back to when the region was first being settled, shortly after the Civil War. John Wesley Powell may be best known for being the first man to navigate the Grand 26 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Canyon, but he was all but ignored as a writer.

A decade after his daring Colorado River expedition, the soon-to-be director of the U.S. Geological Survey published a paper called “Report on the Arid Region of the United States.”

In it, Powell argued that the West must be broken into states according to water and that access to rivers, creeks and brooks should be the dividing lines. Powell also warned that the water must be divided equally among

states and that it must be treated with great care, for every drop of it would be needed.

“Not a spring of a creek can be touched without affecting the interests of every man who cultivates the soil in the region,” Powell wrote.

“Powell’s recommendations were never followed. Political boundaries were not drawn by water, which is why another distinctive characteristic of the West is the squareness of the states,” Professor Kennedy said, adding, “and ever since then it’s literally become ‘hell or low water’ in the West.”

While Powell pleaded, hordes of Americans began to answer the call (usually credited to author Horace Greeley) to “Go West, young man. Go west and grow up in the country.” Of course, no one bothered to tell these young men that most of the West was as dry as a dollar bill.

Snapshot of a River’s Geology For most people traveling through Idaho, it seems inconceivable that the land was once flat, and under shallow seas for that matter. But the once singular landmass of the Earth, Pangea, started to break up 175 million years ago (or Ma), as crustal plates collided and subducted and land began to slowly rise toward the sky (and is still doing so). Meanwhile, miles below, the intense heat and pressure generated by the collisions melted rock and formed enormous fields of magma. And from about 100 Ma to 75 Ma, that magma slowly cooled and crystallized into a 15,400-squaremile granite body, known today as the Idaho Batholith. Jump forward to a mere 2 Ma to the last Ice Age (there have been five), glacial and interglacial (warming) periods took on the Batholith; water and gravity began to work their magic on all that granite, with large sections of the Middle Fork and Main Salmon traversing it. A mere two million years of erosion and uplift have left us with the current stream and river corridors of Salmon River country. -Adam Tanous

courtesy idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / courtesy echo river trips / courtesy penguin books

LocaL buzz // history

To help the struggling, but nonetheless growing, communities of the arid region survive, shortly after the turn of the century the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation was born and the great damming of the West began.

Before the better part of a century had passed, there was hardly so much as a spring creek in the West that didn’t have at least one dam on it, which is one of the reasons Idaho’s beloved Salmon River is so special.

It’s one of the only truly wild and free rivers left in the West.

“Everything depends on the manipulation of water—on capturing it behind dams, storing it, and rerouting it in concrete rivers over distances of hundreds of miles. Were it not for…the messianic effort towards that end, the West as we know it would not exist,” Marc Reisner wrote in Cadillac Desert; the classic and highly entertaining tome about water and the West.

Despite almost constant fights for water rights and massive destruction to native fish and waterfowl populations, the damming has pretty much proven to be a success. The once barren West is now home to about one-third of the nation’s population. But success has its price, too.

“The good news is that the dams were hugely successful. The bad news is that success brings its own problems,” Professor Kennedy said.

The problems are primarily three-fold: steady population growth is taxing the systems, the Endangered Species Act (enacted in 1973) limits human use of water, and the wild card is what will happen because of global climate change. They all add up to a water system that is rapidly becoming obsolete.

But there is still hope. Professor Kennedy is part of Stanford’s Joint Program on Water in the West, which is currently in the midst of a five-year intensive study that not only aims to get a grasp on the current state of water in the Western U.S., but also to research and test solutions.

“There are reasons to be hopeful,” Professor Kennedy said. “On balance, it’s starting to emerge as a topic of concern to the general media. It’s hopeful that we’re even paying attention to the issues. We’re still a pretty smart and resourceful people.”

The type of people smart enough to understand the words that poet Thomas Hornsby Ferril used to describe the West: “Here is a land where life is written in water.” -Mike McKenna Web Extras: For more event details, links and contact information, visit www.sunvalleymag.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 27

PANACHE SUN VALLEY VILLAGE 208 622 4228

PANACHE SUN VALLEY VILLAGE 208 622 4228

LocaL buzz // in the arts

SUMMER ART SCENE Water-inspired art

In a place as steeped in culture and enraptured with water as the Wood River Valley, it’s only fitting that the two would eventually clash—and that the results would be breathtaking. Here we highlight a handful of water-inspired artists showing in and around Sun Valley this summer.

yehouda chaki

Born in Athens and educated in Tel Aviv and Paris, Yehouda Chaki is the artistic advisor at the Saidye Bronfman Centre in Montreal.

Chaki’s work has been described as “a collision of the outside world with the artist’s innermost visceral perceptions.” His landscape and still-life paintings are created by selecting and assembling commonly known elements

of nature so as to present us with a newly ordered vision of the world.

Chaki’s work will appear as part of Gallery Denovo’s 10th anniversary show in July. www.gallerydenovo.com

robert moore

Possessing a sincerity and courtesy reflective of his Idaho farm upbringing, Robert Moore

Art + Fashion + Charity diane von furstenberg One of the world’s foremost fashion designers, Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) first made a name for herself when she introduced her flowing wrap dresses in the early 1970s. The wrap dress has since been elevated to the status of “art” and her work has been featured in museums, galleries and fashion shows all over the world. She’s known for designing clothing that compliments the female form. DVF’s hallmark designs often include the use of floral print and bright colors.

Panache of Sun Valley will host an evening fashion show at Gilman Contemporary Gallery July 6th and will feature DVF’s pre-fall line along with Panache fashions. Furstenberg will make a personal appearance at the July 7th trunk show at Panache. A percentage of the sales from the trunk show will benefit Camp Rainbow Gold. Find out more at www.panachesunvalley.com.

28 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

was born in Burley and raised near the Snake River, which sparked his appreciation for nature. Sensitivity to his subject combined with an impressionistic flair characterize Moore’s landscape and still-life paintings.

His use of vivid colors and frequent highkeyed values reveal a spiritually inspired joy.

Moore’s work truly calls to Gem State lovers, especially his stunning collection of aspeninspired pieces and his enchanting oil on canvas of Redfish Lake.

Moore’s work will be featured at the Kneeland Gallery this summer. www.kneelandgallery.com.

megan murphy

Winner of the Portland Art Museum’s prestigious Contemporary Northwest Art Awards of 2011, Megan Murphy is originally from Washington, but now calls the Valley home.

Her paintings are derived from photographs she has taken, which often include elements of water, and are digitally altered, printed on transparencies and laminated between mirror and low iron glass. Many thin layers of paint and text are applied atop the glass, producing an image that is very still, faintly seen through horizontal lines of text.

Murphy’s work will be exhibited as part of a group show at Ochi Gallery this summer. www.ochigallery.com

brittany sanders

Success has come at a young age for painter and book artist, Brittany Sanders. At just 25, she was the youngest artist to appear

courtesy gallery denovo /courtesy ochi gallery / courtesy kneeland gallery / courtesy megan murphy

Yehouda Chaki’s “After the Toba River;” RIGHT Brittany Sanders watercolors will be shown at Ochi Gallery.

Robert Moore’s version of Redfish Lake; BELOW View Megan Murphy’s work at Ochi’s group show.

at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art (MOMA) “Highlights from the Permanent Collection” show in 2004. Sanders’ work is in the permanent collections of a handful of the finest exhibitors in the country, including MOMA and the Getty Museum. Based part-time out of a studio in Sun Valley, Sanders’ work focuses on themes of the temporal moment and the perception of truth, and often includes elements of water.

Sanders’ work will be featured this August at the Ochi Gallery located in Ketchum. www.ochigallery.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 29

company of fools

LocaL buzz // on the water

a kayak named alice

From dream to design to reality, Chuck Corwin shows off Alice.

company of fools idaho’s award-winning theatre company circle mirror transformation june 28 - july 23 the velveteen rabbit oct 18 - 30 it’s a wonderful life: a live radio play dec 14 - 30 god of carnage feb 15 - mar 3

208.788.6520 companyoffools.org

When Chuck Corwin decided to design and build a boat back in the late ’90s, he never imagined it would become a project that would take more than a decade of his life to complete and would result in something nobody believed was possible.

Now 79, Chuck had wanted to build a boat since he was a kid, but hadn’t had the time or money until he retired 13 years ago. Upon retiring from his position as a civil engineer and, prior to that, from 20 years as a U.S. Aviation Cadet Navigator, Chuck finally began the project he had dreamed about for years.

Chuck said he had never been set on what type of boat to build until he and his wife, Barbara, moved to the Valley in 1975. He said living in the area and seeing the alpine lakes in the nearby mountain ranges gave him the desire to design a kayak he could carry up to those lakes—but not just any kayak—Chuck wanted to design a collapsible kayak that would weigh no more than 10 pounds.

“I can really get my kicks on Alturas or Pettit, but (alpine lakes) are just special. I mean, you’re not going to meet anybody out there on the water. You’ve got the whole lake to yourself,” Chuck said.

Although collapsible kayaks have existed for over 100 years, Chuck said the ones available when he started his project all weighed at least 30 pounds. In his mind, the idea of having to lug a 30-plus-pound pack up to an alpine lake negated the fun of it. He never wanted to have to carry more than 20 pounds total and figured a day hiker’s backpack requires room for about 10 pounds of food and supplies. So with the goal of two 10-pound foldable kayaks, one for him and one for his wife Barbara, Chuck got to work.

“I, for some reason, wanted to start with a totally clean slate and not be influenced by anything else,” Chuck said. “Starting with a clean slate in retrospect was kind of dumb.

Personality flaw, I guess,” he chuckled.

Chuck worked his way through foam models, wooden frames (most of which he said later ended up in the fireplace), different hull designs and eventually settled on a sin30 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

hailey tucker

Valley local designs the world’s lightest backpack kayak

gle-hulled frame constructed of carbon tubes.

He then perfected the waterproof, zipper-free fabric skin that snugly covers the frame and continued tweaking his design.

Barbara said she often doubted Chuck would ever fully finish the boat. For over a decade, he spent hours hidden in their home working on the boat he would eventually name Alice, after an alpine lake in the Sawtooth Mountains.

In 2010, Chuck finally finished his boat.

Alice 4.2, the most current model, weighs 10 pounds, unfolds to be a 12-foot-long, 2-footwide, single-person kayak and packs into a 28-by-18-inch bundle that can fit into an average-sized backpack. Other commercially sold foldable kayaks of similar length average between 17 and 35 pounds.

And although Chuck’s production of one of the lightest foldable kayaks available took him so long that he can no longer physically make the trek to Alice Lake, he said he doesn’t regret anything.

“Hey, I had a good time,” Chuck said.

“I was doing what I liked to do. This is recreation for me. There were certain things I could’ve done quicker and more efficiently, but I don’t have any regrets about any of that—I just had a good time.”

Chuck now sells the boat design to people interested in building their own Alices for $100 (aliceboat@cox.net) and the Corwins take a day almost every week in the summer to float Pettit or Alturas on their kayaks.

“In the last two years, we have been enjoying the fruits of Alice,” Barbara said. “It is like riding on a feather. With just a couple of flicks, you’re moving forward very quickly, and it’s so quiet that we slip right up on shorebirds.” -Hailey Tucker

courtesy angela hemingway

Jack Hemingway on Silver Creek in 1941.

Saving silver creek A hallmark natural preserve turns thirty-five Anyone who’s spent a little time down there has heard it.

You don’t even need to have good hearing to know how it sounds. Silver Creek music is something you feel.

As the man often credited with saving the spring-fed creek, Spencer Beebe, wrote in his book Cache: Creating Natural Economies, “‘Silver Creek music,’ something a blind person could enjoy with absolute wonder.”

But the song of Silver Creek, so lovely to birds and their watchers, a melody that calls to fly fishers from all over the world, almost became a much different tune.

While America was in the midst of celebrating the “Spirit of ’76,” Sun Valley Company needed cash to buy more chairlifts and was selling its 476 acres along the headwaters of Silver Creek. Jack Hemingway, Papa’s eldest son, was the chair of the Idaho Fish and Game Commission. He was afraid one of the West’s finest spring streams would fall into the hands of developers, and the fishery would be ruined.

So Hemingway made a call to The Nature Conservancy’s (TNC) Northwest office in Oregon and a young man named Spencer Beebe answered. It only took Beebe, a fly fisherman himself, one visit to Silver

Creek to get hooked on its sound. He and Hemingway then spent the rest of 1976 scrounging up financial support to purchase and preserve the property.

Thanks to their hard work, and the generosity of people like part-time Sun Valley resident George Gund, within the year a deal was struck and Silver Creek was saved. It became The Nature Conservancy’s first project in Idaho and has become, in the words of TNC’s Director of Communications, Matt Miller, “one of our most well-known projects and a model for spring creek management.”

As Beebe explained, “Silver Creek was the first serious spring creek restoration initiative that we could identify in North America. It spawned a whole movement, an industry of stream restoration across the West.”

This summer, Silver Creek Preserve will be celebrating

its 35th anniversary. A season-long birthday party is in the works. For the most part, the stream itself is in great shape. But like most 35-yearolds, it’s starting to show some signs of age and has put on a little weight. Make that a lot of weight.

Due in large part to the beneficence of local farm and land owners like Bud Purdy, the preserve now covers more than 10,000 acres alongside the banks of the spring creek, which meanders through mountain meadows tucked alongside the gently rolling Picabo Hills.

To help maintain the stream’s health, a Watershed Enhancement Plan is in the works. Setbacks from the creek will be widened. Riparian areas will be improved and some dredging will be done. Sediment buildup is the biggest issue for Silver Creek, according to the preserve’s manager for the last six years, Dayna Gross.

Doing any work along Silver Creek isn’t always easy though.

As Gross explained, “Overall, Silver Creek is in pretty darn good shape, but spring creek restoration is a different animal. There’s a lot of sensitivity with Silver Creek. People have a lot of passion for this place.”

Perhaps no one has more passion for Silver Creek than the man who helped save it.

Spencer Beebe, by his own account, hasn’t spent enough time there. He’s been “too busy saving land,” as he puts it. But when asked if he still hears Silver Creek music, Beebe emphatically answered the same way anyone who has ever heard it does: “Yes!” -Mike McKenna Web Extras: For more stories about Silver Creek, visit www.sunvalleymag.com.

Celebrating Silver Creek’s 35th

While special events are planned throughout the summer, the official 35th birthday bash for Silver Creek Preserve will be held June 30th at Heart Rock Ranch. The memorable evening of stories, food, dancing and revelry will include guest speakers M. Sanjayan, TNC’s lead scientist, and Spencer Beebe. For more information check out www.nature.org/idaho.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 31

Anniversary Sun Collection (Actual Size)

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LocaL buzz // calendar

July 13

the avett brothers

July 16

elephant’s perch backcountry run 10-mile and 16-mile runs. www.elephantsperch.com

July 21-23 Rickie Lee Jones will be rocking the house at River Run in August. ABOVE Dancer Annali Rose performs with the Trey McIntyre Project.

June 25

dollar mountain 10k trail run

Start and finish at The Community School in Sun Valley. www.sunvalleyrunning.com

June 25

throw down List of Events

Summer 2011: The old saying in Sun Valley is that folks come for the winters, but stay—and decide to call the place home—because of the summers. From music and food, to mountain biking, fun runs and the highly-acclaimed Writers’ Conference, here are some of this summer’s highlights.

The World Kayak Hometown Throw downs are a series of events aimed at bringing communities of recreational boaters together in the spirit of simple competition at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade. www.kellyswhitewaterpark.com

July 2

alison krauss and union station featuring jerry douglas

At the Sun Valley Pavilion. www.sunvalley.com

July 8-10

ketchum arts festival

Over 100 artists, food, live music and a special Children’s Festival tent with frivolity and art activities. Festival Meadow on Sun Valley Road. www.ketchumartsfestival.com

July 9-10

kayak championship

USAFK National Point-Series Free-style Kayak Championship at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade. www.kellyswhitewaterpark.com

July 10

a midsummer night’s serenade

Presented by the Sun Valley Opera. www.sunvalleyopera.com

July 11-July 17

ride sun valley

Showcasing the area’s 400+ miles of continuous singletrack, the festival features the USA Cycling National Mountain Biking Championships, as well as guided rides, Welcome BBQ dinner, Fat Tire Criterium and the Second Annual Idaho Pump Track State Championship. www.ridesunvalley.com 32 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

sun valley center wine auction

Weekend includes the wine auction gala, vintner dinners, wine symposiums, a wine picnic and wine tasting event. www.sunvalleycenter.org

July 23

galena grinder whit henry memorial mountain bike race The Knobby Tire Series event features 45-mile, 22.5-mile, 17.5-mile and 10-mile courses, plus Trailbazers at Galena’s trail system. www.galenalodge.com

July 28

sun valley shakedown

Freaturing Bruce Hornsby and the Noisemakers plus Bela Fleck and the Original Flecktones. www.sunvalleyshakedown.com

July 29-30

sawtooth music festival

Two-day music festival held at the foot of the Sawtooth Mountains in Stanley. www.sawtoothmusicfestival.com

August 2

rickie lee jones

Presented by SVCA at River Run. www.sunvalleycenter.org Susan Robinson of Sun Valley takes a cruise through Corral Creek.

rickie lee jones: scott cordaro / dancer annali rose: ©trey mcIntyre project / mountain biker: courtesy club ride apparel

At the Sun Valley Pavilion. www.sunvalleycenter.org

August 20

elephant’s perch shop to the top run 6-mile run or a 5-mile walk. www.elephantsperch.com

August 26

trey mcintyre project

Modern dance at the Sun Valley Pavilion. www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley Center Wine Auction and Concert —celebrating its 30th Anniversary this year.

wine auction picnic: paulette phlipot / symphony: courtesy sun valley summer symphony

August 5-6

34th annual northern rockies folk festival

Family-friendly music festival. Acts include Americana-zydeco-rock, folk and James McMurtry and the Gourds. www.northernrockiesfolkfestival.com

August 11-13

braun brothers reunion

Annual music festival weekend with Micky and the Motorcars, Reckless Kelly and more in Challis. www.braunbrothersreunion.com

August 12-14

43rd annual sun valley center arts and crafts festival Atkinson Park, Ketchum. www.sunvalleycenter.org

August 13

throw down

Throw Down event at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade. www.kellyswhitewaterpark.com

August 15

michael franti and spearhead Presented by SVCA at River Run. www.sunvalleycenter.org

August 17

middle fork writers workshop river trip

Tim Cahill, a founding editor of Outside Magazine, and travel writer Michael Shapiro will be co-hosting a writers’ workshop on the Middle Fork of the Salmon. www.idahoriverjourneys.com

August 17

huey lewis & the news

Benefit concert for the Danny Thompson Memorial Golf Tournament at the Sun Valley Pavilion. www.sunvalley.com

August 19-22

sun valley writers’ conference One of the best literary festivals in the country.

Readers and writers come together to enjoy a wondrous weekend with prominent writers and artists. www.svwc.com

September 3

throw down

Local recreational boaters compete for bragging rights at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade. www.kellyswhitewaterpark.com

September 4 wagon days

54th Annual Labor Day Celebration holiday weekend is packed with a variety of activities and features one of the largest non-motorized parades in the Northwest. www.wagondays.com

September 14

reverend horton heat At Whiskey Jacques’. www.whiskeyjacques.com

August 12-14, 2011 Atkinson Park, Ketchum Fri & Sat 10am-6pm • Sun 10am-5pm

Unique handmade fine arts and crafts including painting, photography, fiber, ceramic, metal, jewelry and woodwork.

130 Artists, Live Music, a Kids Craft Area open daily from 11am-2pm and Artists Demonstrations daily between 1-4pm

September 23-25

sun valley harvest festival

Restaurant walk, chef demonstrations, harvest dinners, martini and caviar party, river guide culinary competition and a grand tasting. www.sunvalleyharvestfestival.com

September 24

baldy hill climb

Includes both hiking and mountain bike events as well as the “Baldy Double,” a mountain bike race to the top followed by a hiking race to the top. www.svsef.org

September 24

sun valley music festival At the Sun Valley Pavilion. www.sunvalley.com

August 1-16

sun valley summer symphony Enjoy the largest free-admission symphony in America in a stunning high alpine setting.

Music Director Alasdair Neale has orchestrated a fantastic schedule for the 2011 Orchestra Festival, with a Benefit Concert on July 31st and a symphony season that runs August 1 through August 16. Concerts begin at 6:30 p.m. at the stunning Sun Valley Pavilion outdoors.

And don’t miss the “Vive la France” Discussion and Concert series July 24, 25, 27 and 29. www.svsummersymphony.org

Web Extras: For more event details, links and contact information, visit www.sunvalleymag.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 33

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38//the drinking game Bottled water basics

40//bodies of water

body& soul

H2O and human health

42//trout friendly Impacts on the river

44//healing waters

glenn oakley

Finding Higher Ground

Soaking in Kirkham Hot Springs on the South Fork of the Payette River.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 37

body & soul // bottled water basics

the drinking game The basics behind drinking water

Browse the water aisle at the grocery store and you’ll find yourself overwhelmed with choices—spring water, seltzer water, vitamin water, mineral water it’s all there for the drinking. In the U.S. there are nearly 200 different brands of mineral water alone. It’s simply a matter of finding what works best for you.

For Brenda Powell, director of the 90-Day Challenge program at Thunder Spring’s Zenergy Health Club and Spa, nutritionist and two-time finisher in the Iron Man, a good recovery drink is her answer to staying hydrated. “Coconut water has a lot of naturally occurring electrolytes. I figure that I recover much quicker with it than regular water. I have a magic formula that really works for me—half coconut water, half tap water and a packet of Emergen-C.” That said, here’s a glimpse of what’s out there and what’s in it for you. -Jody Orr

Sparkling Water

Purified water into which carbon dioxide gas is dissolved, making it bubble. content: No calories. benefits /taste : Naturally hydrates/ Plain sparkling water is tasteless unless flavors are added.

Mineral Water

Not less than 250 parts per million total dissolved solids coming from a source tapped at bore holes or springs originating from a protected underwater ground source. No minerals may be added to the water. content: Calorie free. Typical minerals found in Idaho mineral water like Trinity Springs include potassium, sodium, calcium, chloride, fluoride and silica. benefits /taste : Naturally hydrates/ Sometimes bitter; varies from brand to brand.

Tap Water

Water is pumped from local natural sources—springs and aquifers— and is very clean and moderately hard. content: Local utility companies add some chlorine —anywhere from .15 to .2 parts per million; fluoride occurs naturally in the water. benefits /taste : Natural, healthy hydration / good.

Distilled Water

Water derived from the steam of boiled water. content: Free of impurities (some of which may be beneficial) and fluoride. benefits /taste : Without nutrients that naturally occur in spring, mineral, or tap water, distilled water is considered by some to be less beneficial / good.

Five gallon plastic bottles (PC)

bottle content:

Polycarbonate (PC). issues: Under extreme conditions (long term storage, cleaning with abrasive materials) Bisphenol-A (BPA), a chemical used in hard plastic water and baby bottles, and linings of some soda and soup cans, releases endocrine disruptors mimicking hormones leading to health issues.

Growing concern about BPA has lead some manufacturers of canned food and baby bottles to find alternatives. cost: Variable taste : Varies from brand to brand

38 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Spring Water

Water collected from underground source. No processing permitted that would substantially change its composition. content: Rocks, Natural Idaho.

Some naturally occurring mineral content. This particular brand has calcium, magnesium, sodium, nitrate, potassium, and fluoride.

No calories. benefits /taste : Naturally hydrates/ Generally good; varies from brand to brand.

Vitamin water Power-C

Vitamin water is more soft drink than health drink. content: 120% Vitamin C + Taurine; Vitamins B3, B5, B6 & B12. Fifty calories per 8 oz serving with two and one half servings in every bottle; 32.5 (2 tablespoons) grams of crystalline fructose. Sugar outweighs vitamins. benefits /taste : Better than soda, but not by much / sweet.

Stainless Steel Bottles

bottle content: Kleen Kanteen produces food-grade stainless steel water bottles.

Stainless steel includes manganese and chromium. issues : None taste : No aftertaste cost: 18 oz, $16.45

Coconut Water

The clear liquid or juice found inside a coconut. content: A natural electrolyte with 45 calories per 8 oz serving; one cup has more potassium than a banana. Used as intravenous fluid in lieu of saline in developing countries. benefits /taste : Electrolyte replacement / slightly sweet— better when diluted with water and flavoring of some kind.

Message in a Bottle Once upon a time, plastic water bottles didn’t exist.

Then, in the late 1970s, Perrier came to America, and with it the craze for drinking water from a bottle. That little green bottle changed everything.

About 30 billion bottles of water are sold per year in North America as an alternative to tap water. Forty percent of that water is nothing but filtered tap water. According to the 2010 documentary “Tapped,” bottled water costs 1,900 times more than tap water. And while tap water is rigorously monitored by the EPA (in communities of 50,000 or more it is tested hundreds of times a month), the FDA tests only water that travels across state lines. Tap water, particularly in the Wood River Valley, is clean, affordable and tastes good.

And then there’s the environment to consider. In Peter H. Gleick’s exposé, “Bottled & Sold,” he estimates that only about 20 percent of water bottles sold are recycled because of shipping costs. The rest go in landfills. More than 60 tons of plastic was recycled in the Wood River Valley last year according to Craig Barry, executive director of the Environmental Resource Center. “Those numbers have more than doubled in the last few years, but we don’t know how much of that are plastic water bottles.” Bottle bills, which add a 5¢ deposit, exist in only 11 states (Idaho isn’t one of them). Half of that legislation doesn’t include plastic.

A simple solution for people who don’t like tap water—buy a filter. Filters remove impurities and make water taste better.

There are dozens of types available—subsink, faucet, refrigerator or whole house filters. They range from under $10 for a pitcher filter, to thousands for a whole house filter. -Jody Orr

Glass bottles

bottle content: Lifefactory makes a clear, chemical free, soda lime glass wrapped in silicone sleeve issues : None taste : No aftertaste cost: 22 oz, $21.99

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 39

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body & soul // water and people

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Bodies of Water

The importance of water to human health We begin our lives submerged. Floating in a sea of amniotic fluid comprised largely of water, we enter the world as liquid beings, made of nearly 85 percent water. By the time we’re a year old, we lose 20 percent of that total. Water is the most important resource on the planet, and without it there would be no life.

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A simple molecule made of two atoms of hydrogen and one of oxygen, water’s role in the health of our bodies cannot be underestimated. In addition to transporting nutrients and oxygen to every cell, it acts as a natural thermostat, regulating cell and core body temperatures. Water is the body’s Jiffy Lube, ensuring that our joints, muscles and organs are well oiled and running at maximum efficiency. And that’s just the beginning. Slather as much lotion as you like on dry skin, but water moisturizes you from the inside out.

It’s also the least expensive weight loss option around. Feel hungry? Drink a glass of water and find yourself sated and hydrated. Metabolic function and digestion improve with increased water intake, and researchers have found that men and women who drank five or more glasses of water a day were less likely to die from heart attack. Water is a natural laxative, keeping you regular by adding fluid to the colon. Your mother was right when she told you to drink plenty of fluids when you were sick. Water flushes bacteria out of your system and eliminates toxins that build up in the body, enabling your kidneys to function optimally, while preventing kidney stones and urinary tract infections.

We can survive without food for several weeks, but a few waterless days can mean 40 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

the difference between life and death. At just one percent below the body’s normal water balance, we begin to feel thirsty; dizziness occurs if we fall below five percent and a loss of 12 percent can be deadly. In the Wood River Valley’s high desert climate where air pressure and humidity are lower, moisture evaporates from the skin surface and lungs more quickly. At 6,000 feet, we exhale and perspire twice as much as we do at sea level. Throughout the day, we lose two to three quarts of water through sweat, urine and breathing.

About 40 percent of our water intake is through the food we eat (fruits and vegetables are high in water content); however, drinking water is key in avoiding dehydration. Eight to ten glasses of water a day is recommended, but living at higher elevations requires more—particularly for competitive athletes. Camille Wood, who owns and operates The Water Store out of her home in Ketchum, is a local distributer for Kangen Filtration Systems. Wood believes most people walk around not knowing they’re thirsty.

“I think we’re meant to be more hydrated than we are. At minimum, we should be drinking half of our body weight in ounces.

Ideally, we should drink our body weight in ounces of water every day.” -Jody Orr

Matt Leidecker soaking it up at Sheepeater Hot Springs, Middle Fork of the Salmon River.

The ancient Greeks would have felt right at home in Idaho with our abundance of geothermal pools. Renowned for their bathhouses (or spas) built into hillsides around natural hot springs, they used mineral water for relaxation, healing and, uh, socializing. As a therapeutic treatment, water has evolved dramatically over time.

Following are a few ways you can experience its restorative properties locally:

Ion Cleanse

If you’re in the market for a low-key detox, the Ion Cleanse is a great way to go. Laura Curd at ReSource Salon has been doing Ion Cleanses for the last eight years. A machine called an Array is placed in a tub of water next to your feet or hands, positively and negatively charging the water and drawing out your body’s toxins through osmosis. Says Curd, “It helps people detoxify in a very gentle way and lets the body alkalize positively without doing anything extreme.” A half-hour session is $30 and, according to Curd, can really help people with pain—particularly arthritis. “It’s a subtle change that makes a big difference over time.” 208.726.5760

Colon Cleanse

Dr. Maria Maricich, a holistic family doctor in Ketchum, offers her patients colon cleanses (not to be confused with colon hydrotherapy).

Maricich recommends the “Arise and Shine Cleanse,” which requires a regimen of at least a week or, if you’re really dedicated, one month. The cleanse is a mix of water and herbs taken orally, and Maricich has seen great results. “With a colon cleanse, you eliminate all the things that are hard to digest while at the same time taking herbs.”

A week’s worth of cleanse is $79, a month is $170. 208.726.6010

B o ut iq u e & G a lle r y

Balneotherapy

Balneotherapy (balneum is Latin for bath), is the practice of using hot or cold water for relaxation or stimulation, much like the Greeks believed. It’s been used in the treatment of arthritis, fibromyalgia, skin issues like eczema and a myriad of other ailments. It’s believed that water temperature and minerals found in hot springs (such as magnesium and lithium) possess healing properties. The closest public hot spring to Ketchum is Frenchman’s Bend, about ten miles out Warm Springs Road. The pools average 124 degrees, require swimwear and are free. Easley Hot Springs, 14 miles north of Ketchum off Highway 75 at Cathedral Pines, are cooler, but more civilized, with a swimming pool temperature of 85 degrees and hot tubs at 98 degrees.

Dry Hydrotherapy

The HydroMassage bed was designed for people who like massage but don’t always have the time to invest in one. Erin Kelso at Ketchum Chiropractic describes it like this: “Really strong jets of warm water shoot up and hit the bottom of the table, massaging the spine, working to loosen up your muscles before or after a workout.” The bed can be used in conjunction with chiropractic as well. The first session is free; a ten-minute session is $10 and a five-time punch card is $50. 208.726.4555. -Jody Orr

Single serve plastic bottles (PET) bottle content:

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) Questions concern resistance to temperature change, encouraging bacterial growth. Low recycling rates; don’t biodegrade.

Try glass or stainless steel as more health-conscious options. cost: Variable issues :

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 41

photos: Marcia Duff

matt leidecker

Water Ways

180 East Avenue, Ketchum, Idaho Next to Cristina’s phone 208.720.2635 gayodmark@gmail.com Summer hours Tues-Sat, 11 am – 5 pm, closed Sun, Mon

body & soul // fish friendly

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2) Fertilize with a Conscience Eliminate synthetic fertilizers and herbicides. Natalie Ertz of Native Landscapes recommends compost tea.

“We encourage building healthier soils as opposed to chemicals which make a lawn green temporarily.” Gunnar Whitehead of Whitehead’s Landscaping uses a compost tea made organically by worms they farm, which adds microorganisms, fungus and bacteria into the lawns.

3) Go Native Stick to native and droughttolerant plants. They make for a beautiful, natural landscape that is less inclined to attract pests and ultimately requires less time, money and water. Local garden centers or landscape specialists can help you pick out the perfect Trout Friendly plants for your property.

Web Extra: For additional information about certifying your lawn for Trout Friendliness, contact the Wood River Land Trust at www.troutfriendly.org.

trout friendly lawns Making friends with fish

There once was a time when driving 70 mph on a six-lane freeway while talking on a cell phone would have seemed far-fetched, not to mention dangerous. But learned behavior quickly becomes habit for many of us. And it’s that same human tendency that the Wood River Land Trust counted on when they introduced their Trout Friendly Lawn (TFL) program to the Valley four years ago.

Chronic drought conditions made it clear to Kathryn Goldman, who launched the program (she is currently campaign director for the Pesticide Action Network), that every time we turn on a garden hose or sprinkler system, we put pressure on the Big Wood River. TFL’s mission is simple: to change the way we see the river and the underground sources that feed it. The more water we use, the less water is in the river, and the warmer it becomes. Warmer water forces trout to leave the area in search of cooler temperatures. And nobody wants that.

TFL, based on a program developed in Missoula, Montana, pairs simple logic with science to inspire water conservation and the use of organic herbicides and pesticides amongst landowners who live near the river. By partnering with local landscape contractors, environmental groups and other concerned entities to encourage trout friendliness, the Land Trust has started a dialogue between homeowners and professionals, creating a kind of riparian détente in the process. “When it comes to our water resources in the arid West, and in the Big Wood River drainage, the future is about allocation. We’re going to have to make some choices. If we love our river, we’re going to have do the right things to preserve it,” explained Goldman. Hence, the Trout Friendly certification program was born. -Jody Orr

42 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

courtesy wood river land trust

organic • local • vegan

1) Water With Your Head, Not Your Heart The right amount of water at the right time of day is critical.

Over-watering can lead to increased pests and fungus.

Derek Ruhter, maintenance services manager for Webb Landscaping, is a believer that technology makes the process easy. “We promote the use of Smart Clocks (available at irrigation supply stores) which measure precipitation, sunlight, wind and heat,” he said. Smart Clocks possess sensors that detect moisture levels in the air, instructing your sprinkler system to water only when your lawn needs it.

streams of life

A peek beneath the water

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 43

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From our lofty human perspective, streams are simple things. They carry water from one place to the next. They offer us places to quench our thirst, shores to sit a spell and ponder, holes for trout to hang out.

But we never see streams for what they really are: soggy, wedded partners with the world that hovers above them. “That’s the essence of science, to find those connections between the seemingly unconnected,” explained Bruce Medhurst, a staff researcher at the nation’s mostacclaimed mountain stream study facility, the Sierra Nevada Aquatic Research Laboratory.

As Medhurst explained, as it is above the water, so it is below. Just as the sun feeds the grain that we boil into malt for beer, the sun also feeds a stream’s food web.

Algae feeds on sunlight while it clings to submerged rocks like seaweed. The algae also filters “nutrients” out of the water, stuff like fallen leaves and nitrates (primarily by-products of our homes, cars, power tools, etc.). The algae then become a wet buffet line for aquatic insect life.

Mayflies, damselflies, stoneflies and their fellow invertebrates work their way from eggs to swimming midges and nymphs to flying terrestrial adults primarily by feasting on algae.

At some point during the process­— either while the bugs are bouncing off the bottom, dancing upon the surface or drifting in between­—the trout sip them up like children slurping milkshakes on a summer’s day. The trout, of course, then occasionally make meals for those outside the stream’s food web— critters higher up on the food chain, like bald eagles, osprey, blue herons and fishermen.

For a long time, though, that’s where the stream’s food web was believed to end. The water was one ecosystem, and the world it cast reflections of was another. But eventually, some curious scientists were able to finally start seeing the secret life of streams. “The picture is a lot bigger than we think. Everything is connected,” said Medhurst.

“It’s called a ‘trophic cascade.’ When you cut off something or add something new like an herbicide or fish species to a stream, it’s going to affect everything else. And as humans, it seems like we’re always adding something to streams,” explained Medhurst, who did his undergrad work at WisconsinStevens Point, which isn’t all that far from famous conservationist Aldo Leopold’s beloved Sand County.And as Medhurst pointed out, the more we learn about streams, the more sound Aldo Leopold’s advice seems: “When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.”

-Mike McKenna

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RUSTIC

body & soul // water warriors American hero Damien Jacobs enjoys the healing waters of the Salmon River.

RIGHT John Puletasi coasts across Pettit Lake.

MOUNTAIN

Healing Waters

RUSTERN

MODERN

DOUGLAS W. BURDGE, AIA www.buaia.com

208-495-3228 310-456-5905

There is nothing remarkable about the scene: a fly fisherman stands knee-high in the cold water of an Idaho freestone stream. He is still, watching the current carry his dry fly downstream. The air is warm, filled with the identifiable streamside sweetness of cottonwood and horsemint. A slight breeze ruffles the willows on the bank, the only other sounds the occasional song of a red-winged blackbird, the background buzz of a bee.

It’s a scene that is replayed on streams and rivers throughout the Wood River Valley all summer long. And yet, for one group of fishermen—veterans recently returned from tours of duty in Iraq and Afghanistan—the scene is miraculous. In lives that have been forever altered by debilitating injuries, the opportunity to be quiet, to focus, to rely, again, on their own bodies, is life-changing.

Higher Ground, a local non-profit organization dedicated to using sports and recreational activities as a means of healing, therapy, and rehabilitation for veterans coping with disabilities, runs two fly fishing camps and a watersports camp on local waters each year.

The camps offer veterans—or warriors, as they are referred to at Higher Ground—the opportunity to rediscover both their physical abilities within the new parameters created by their injuries and to recognize that they are part of a community.

“I think many of the warriors really want to know that they’re not crazy and that they’re not alone. They want to know that 44 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

they are capable and able, not only to do sports but to enter into new relationships and to feel what they could feel before their injuries,” says Higher Ground operations manager Kate Weihe.

At the fly fishing camps, warriors are sent out on day trips with professional guides from Silver Creek Outfitters; at the annual water sports camp, they spend five days at Pettit Lake, learning to use a sit-ski, a kayak and a canoe, and rafting down a day stretch of the Salmon River.

For Army veteran Sean Johnson, as for so many of the warriors, the Higher Ground experience was transformative. “Fly fishing is the first sport I’ve learned that I can truly do on my own,” Sean says. “For the first time since my injury, I was able to truly relax and enjoy myself.”

Higher Ground programs also offer caregivers an opportunity to relax and provide dedicated time for couples to spend together. “[The camp] gives couples the perfect setting to spend quality time and just really look at each other,” says Weihe. “They can remember why they fell in love and can realize that they are the same people after the injury and they just have to learn to communicate differently.”

For the warriors, reconnecting with their body and their spirit in this unique setting

courtesy sun valley adaptive sports / courtesy matt leidecker

Local fly fishing and watersports camps offer veterans an opportunity to reconnect with their bodies and their spirits.

Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch Historic Charm, Modern Comfort

Luke Wilson angles for trout on the Big Wood River.

BELOW Jason Barefoot paddleboards at Pettit Lake.

can remind them of the beauty and the honor in their chosen path, says Higher Ground program manager Sean McEntee: “Spending time on the water and going to the places in this Valley that are so magical lets these guys look around and think, This is why I went to war; this is what I’m fighting for.” -Diana Price Exploring Sun Valley: A Comprehensive Guide to the Boulder, Pioneer and Smoky Mountains is a waterproof guidebook, written by Matt Leidecker, a local photographer, author, and guide, and contains detailed topographic maps, route descriptions and over 100 stunning photographs.

The book provides readers with the intimate knowledge necessary to make the most of their time exploring central Idaho.

The guidebook covers every trail and backcountry road in the Wood River Valley as well as more than 60 off-trail routes and peak scrambles. It includes an extensive explanation of the local geology, a full-color wildflower section as well as a section on the history of trail development in the Valley. Available at local retailers or online at www.exploringsunvalley.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 45

LODGING › DINNER › RECREATION without the crowds

Stanley, Idaho - North of Sun Valley on the Salmon River - Sawtooth Scenic Byways www.idahorocky.com • info@idahorocky.com • 208.774.3544

48//new river academy A cool school

50//hot springs

get out there

The state of soaking

52//get wet sports Places to play

54//paddling

Boards and kayaks

55//whitewater

courtesy beverly mcneal

Idaho’s First Whitewater Park

Whiz McNeal and his pooch Scout paddleboarding at Redfish Lake .

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 47

get out there // river school NRA students are all smiles after a roll session with Chilean students. RIGHT Kayaking coach and Spanish teacher Lorenzo Andrade Astorga dives in.

New River Academy School. The word quite often reverberates moans, groans, excuses, and stress throughout homes everywhere. It is rigidly defined in the dictionary as, “An institute for giving systematic instruction, or the buildings used by such an institution,” but whoever said that “school” couldn’t be redefined?

What if school was a place to learn without walls and boundaries? What if it was a place where students could map out a micro-hydro power facility on a small self-sufficient island on the Nile River in Uganda for a physics project, or study number and food vocabulary by going shopping at a market in Chile for Spanish class?

What if school could be held in open-air restaurants, along the banks of rippling streams, or in any place that looks comfortable, convenient, and constructive on any particular day? What if school combined the health of mind and body, and focused not only on facts, but also on how to expand them based on personal interest and individual exploration?

48 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

It makes perfect sense, yet seems all too dreamlike, but, lo and behold, this is the definition of school in the case of New River Academy, a traveling kayak high school based out of Fayetteville, West Virginia. Here, students carry out the essentials of formal education, while at the same time receiving an education of the world. The academy spends their first and last quarters in the U.S. and Canada, and then heads south for their winter quarters to live and learn in such places as Costa Rica, New Zealand, Uganda, and Chile.

Wayne Poulsen, 15, the son of Sun Valley locals Craig and Alison Poulsen, started attending New River Academy this past fall. Wayne began to learn to whitewater kayak the previous year in the Valley, attending pool sessions at the YMCA and doing day trips over Galena Summit to the Salmon River whenever he could.

The teenager was hooked, and when he heard about New River, he was immediately sold.

However, while he signed up

simply to go kayaking every day with some of the best coaches in the world, he ended up getting much more than he could have imagined. The school has six full-time teachers and caps its enrollment at 15 students.

So as Wayne describes, “It’s more focused for each student’s personal needs. It’s easier to learn here, and you learn a lot faster with one to three students in each class than you would at a regular school.”

Students typically wake up every morning for a yoga, strength or cardio workout before breakfast, have a full day of school, and then go kayaking.

They’re so active that they’ll sit down for class contentedly, and in terms of getting homework done, the best motivation of all looms over this paradise of education—if you don’t do your work, well then you don’t get to go kayaking. Needless to say, it’s the norm for students to stay on top of any class from calculus to AP English.

Being in exotic locations and

having to figure out such things as how to cook dinner for 20 people in half an hour results in your average 16-year-old learning just as much outside of the “classroom” as in it. New River Academy scholars take music classes in Chile, visit schools in Africa and are encouraged to fully explore and immerse themselves in their surroundings.

Students who are beginner kayakers as well as students who are on the U.S., Canadian, and New Zealand National Teams, learn, work, and play together and, upon graduation, have moved on to attend Ivy League colleges, own successful media companies and thrive as professional kayakers.

One might speculate that much of the students’ (and the school’s) success comes from New River Academy’s philosophy of “And that has made all the difference,” taken from Robert Frost’s poem, “The Road Less Traveled.” When asked about the philosophy, founder of the school David Hughes states, “This slogan has guided every large

courtesy new river academy / errik hill

School on the River Less Traveled

Ketchum local Wayne Poulsen surfing a wave on the Nile in Uganda. RIGHT View of the Rio Claro from above.

(clockwise from left) jessica droujko / courtesy new river academy / kira tenney / kai-wen pai awesome chilean volcano guide / courtesy new river academy

New River Academy

clockwise Slacklining in Chile; Hauling kayaks to the Nuble Valley; Yoga on the Rio Claro bridge; Students atop the Volcan Villarica.

Focusing on academics, culture and some of the finest kayaking spots on the globe, New River Academy offers a unique and highly motivating alternative education. It’s an accredited college preparatory school for students in 9th through a post-graduate year. For more information, check out www.newriveracademy.org.

school decision and served as a reminder as to why we’re here.

As teachers, we should strive to make a difference and for us that difference comes via challenging ourselves daily, academically and athletically, and exploring cultures, traveling and fully engaging ourselves. Really, I wanted to remove kids from TV, video games and the Internet. It’s an active environment and that’s real life.”

And perhaps that’s school as it should be. -Kira Tenney, a Community School graduate and literature teacher for the New River Academy

The Idaho Paddler, Whitewater Gems: A Rafters and Kayakers Guide

by Sean Glaccum (Glaccum, 2009) profiles 72 of the Gem State’s finest whitewater runs. Including photos and directions both to and through some the state’s best rapids, this book, by a native Idahoan and one of the world’s most highly-acclaimed paddlers, is a must have for any Idaho whitewater enthusiast.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 49

By appointment only PO Box 7039 Ketchum, ID 83340 208.726.1028 www.brucemartininteriors.com bruce@brucemartininteriors.com

get out there // soaking

idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / glen allison / courtesy aqua thermal access

BELOW Taking a break from rafting with Idaho River Journeys on the Middle Fork.

RIGHT Lounging around Loon Creek hot springs.

Safe

Soaking Tips • Get good directions. Don’t assume that you can find any hot spring marked on a map; many are well hidden.

Get the skinny from someone who has actually been there.

• Don’t be a trailblazer. Soak only in established hot springs.

Backcountry springs may be too hot or too acidic, and could contain red spider mites or other harmful parasites.

• Check for wildlife. Some pools are fed by streams that travel a little way over land. Follow water to its source, keeping an eye out for animal carcasses or other contaminants.

• Always bring a trash bag.

Most Idaho hot springs are natural and primitive, with no trash cans or custodians.

It is up to each individual user to care for these areas.

• Leave it better than you found it. You will probably find other peoples’ litter. Do the right thing and clean it up!

• Don’t bring glass.

• Bring a hat, sunblock and drinking water. The hot water makes you sweat; you’ll want to protect against dehydration.

• Nude or prude? Hot springing is a natural experience, but not always an au naturel one.

Nudity may be okay at remote or well-hidden springs, but not at easily-accessible ones.

Be considerate of others.

Idaho Hot springs Nature’s ahh-some experience

Near the end of an all-day trek, a lone hiker plods a dusty trail winding through the Sawtooth Wilderness. The day’s heat has begun to fade as a fiery burn in his leg muscles continues to rise. A fine layer of grit and dried sweat coats his skin, and one thing keeps him moving forward: the thought of the soothing, soul-restoring soak that awaits him just up the trail in one of Idaho’s many natural hot springs.

Idaho is blessed with more that its share of these hot, steamy wonders; as many as 232, according to the National Geophysical Data Center.

Of these, 130 are considered soakable, a larger number than any other state in the nation, and most are on public land. (To be fair, Nevada does have more hot springs, but the majority are either too hot or too acidic to sit in.)

50 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

this is why we’re hot

Josh Laughtland, who has administered the website www.idahohotsprings.com for more than a decade, says that 90% of our hot springs exist because of a meteor that collided in southeast Oregon some 17 million years ago. The impact was deep—so deep that it effectively punctured the Earth’s mantle, allowing a massive

bubble, or plume, of magma to rise just beneath the planet’s crust.

“As time passed,” he explained, “this hot spot was shifted and pushed through Idaho, essentially to its present day location in Yellowstone.” Moving less than two inches per year, the plume traveled from the southeast corner of Oregon to its current location beneath northwest Wyoming, leaving a wide swath of underground heat energy across central Idaho.

Today, in areas across central Idaho, this leftover energy heats the groundwater, forcing it toward the surface. It emerges in streams, collecting in natural or man-made pools that enjoy continuous supplies of fresh, hot water: hot springs!

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getting into hot water

In spite of summer’s heat, this can be a great season to enjoy the springs, as access is often difficult during the winter and early spring.

Laughtland recommends Russian John, described as a “warm spring,” just north of Sun Valley: “It only clocks in at 97 degrees so it’s a great place to go in the summer.”

Frenchman’s Bend Hot Springs, a roadside soak just west of Ketchum in the Sawtooth National Forest, is popular year-round, usually accessible by off-road vehicles in the winter months. In the summer, all sorts of folks gather here to enjoy these toasty-warm pools next to Warm Springs Creek.

With a little research and a willingness to hike, antisocial soakers can find plenty of less-crowded opportunities within an hour’s drive, including several east of Featherville, and others north of Stanley along the Salmon River. But remember, conditions change from season to season and not all springs are safe to soak in, so it’s important to get the inside scoop before you go. -Eric Ellis Hot Springs and Hot Pools of the Northwest (Aqua Thermal Press, updated 2008) by Marjorie GershYoungs is considered the definitive guide for hot springs in the Northwest. Full of great photos and useful information like GPS coordinates, handicap access and clothing—or lack there of—requirements, the over-sized paperback comes highly-recommended by the staff at Iconoclast Books in Ketchum.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 51

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get out there // get wet

Drive a few miles to the north or south of the Wood River Valley and you can take your pick of alpine lakes or mineral-infused hot springs. Water-skiing, kayaking, whitewater rafting, fishing or a hot soak are all a part of summer in—and on—the waters of central Idaho.

stanley basin If you want to be wowed with the sheer natural beauty of Idaho, there’s no better place than Redfish Lake (www.redfishlake.com). Named for the red sockeye salmon that come here to spawn every summer, the otherworldly clarity of the water at Redfish is rivaled only by the air quality of the high mountain lake (elevation 6,550’). The views alone are worth the trip, as the Sawtooth Range, highlighted by Mount Heyburn, rises over the lake like a snow-covered sentry. The Redfish Lake Lodge Marina offers a myriad of rentals from kayaks to canoes, paddleboats to outboards and pontoon boats.

Waterskiing (also popular at nearby Alturas Lake) is not for the faint of heart, however, and a wet suit is recommended (average summer water temps at Redfish are 50-60˚F). Mooring is available to guests of the Lodge and Sandy Beach has a public boat ramp. right angles

Drive across any river bridge in Idaho in the summer and you’re sure to see a fisherman, casting out in hopes of landing a lunker.

Cutthroat trout is the state fish of Idaho for good reason—“cuts” and their fishy siblings, rainbow, bull, brook and lake trout, inhabit

cody doucette

get wet sports

The high alpine lakes of the Stanley Basin are a locals’favorite for summertime fun.

most of our rivers and lakes. And they’re not the only species. Salmon and steelhead have long populated area waters as well.

The Idaho Department of Fish and Game makes sure that sections of the Main Salmon, as well as numerous other alpine lakes and streams, are stocked during the summer months. So just about every body of water in the basin offers some kind of angling opportunity. Bring your own gear or check in with any of the area guides—in Stanley or Ketchum—or visit the Chamber of Commerce’s website (www.stanleycc.org) for more information. into the wild

To get to the postcard picture of the alpine lake you bought in the gift shop is not impossible, but may require a little legwork. Whether you want to go it on your own, trail map in hand, or connect with a local outfitter, you won’t be disappointed. Sawtooth Mountain Guides (www.sawtoothguides.com) leads custom treks that can be as short as an afternoon hike or as involved as a multiple-day backpacking trip. Call the Stanley Ranger Station for a map of the area at 208.774.3000.

Run Salmon Run! After swimming more than 900 miles from the Pacific Ocean via the Salmon, Snake, and Columbia rivers to their spawning grounds around Redfish Lake, sockeye and Chinook salmon deserve a party.

In celebration of their Herculean effort, the Sawtooth Salmon Festival (www.sawtoothsalmonfestival.org) honors their return to the Stanley Basin every August with educational events, tours of the spawning beds, food and live music. This year’s familyfriendly tribute to the steadfast ichthyolite is sponsored by Idaho Rivers United, and is slated for Saturday, August 20. The festival, which is open to the public, kicks off at the Stanley Interpretive and Historic Association at the mouth of Valley Creek, just off of Highway 21, south of Lower Stanley. Greg Stahl, assistant policy director for Idaho Rivers United, believes the mission of the festival is to expose visitors to “the miracle that is a salmon.” -Jody Orr 52 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

getting there

From Sun Valley, less than hour drive north on Highway 75, up and over Galena Summit, gets you into the Stanley Basin.

magic reservoir On the edge of the Camas Prairie lies a small but defiant reservoir that refuses to go away—no matter how bad the drought.

It’s Magic Reservoir, a local’s favorite and a warm alternative to the chilly alpine lakes.

Magic is a great spot to waterski, wakeboard and windsurf. Rainbow and brown trout abound, as do yellow perch and smallmouth bass.

The Bureau of Land Management watches over the 14,000 acres of shoreline and water that make up Magic. According to Don Hartman, owner of West Magic Resort (www.westmagicresort.com), the number of people at the reservoir is directly proportionate to its water levels.

“This summer will be a busy one with the amount of water we’ve gotten this winter.”

Hartman’s resort includes two cabins, a restaurant and bar, convenience store, tackle shop and RV park. There are two sides to Magic, east and west, with the west side considerably more developed.

The east side does have just enough for some—a boat ramp, dock, nine semi-developed campsites and, perhaps most importantly, a bar (www.magiccityidaho.com). getting there

From Sun Valley, it’s little more than a half hour’s drive south down Highway 75, turning west on Highway 20, to reach the east side entrances. For the west side, which takes a little longer to access, stay on 75, past the Highway 20 junction, until you see signage on the right.

Hagerman Hagerman, to the uninitiated, is home to one of the oldest horses in North America. The Hagerman Horse (Equus simplicidens) hails from the late Pliocene era, three and a half million years ago. But there’s more to this hamlet than old horse bones. Situated on the banks of the Snake River and bursting with natural hot springs, it’s an aquatic play land. tub time

Hot or cold, inside or out, there is no shortage of Hagerman mineral water. Miracle Hot Springs (www.mhsprings.com) has 19 private pools, a large warm outdoor pool and smaller hot pool. Jim House, who drains and cleans the pools every evening, says hot spring groupies, who travel the country like Deadheads on tour, come for the water and stay for the customer service. “We don’t shock the water with chlorine, so everything about it is natural. People appreciate how laid back we are, but at the same time how happy we are to accommodate them,” he said. High alkaline contents make your skin silky smooth, unlike their resident alligators, which are safely ensconced behind a fence near the mineral pools. Geodesic camping domes and an RV park with hook-ups are available if you’d like to make a weekend of it. The only indoor hot spring in town is 1000 Springs Resort, which(www.1000springsresort.com) offers a large pool with high dive, slides and a lifeguard. It ranges in temp from 84-94ºF and is perfect for the whole family. Private rooms with tubs are also on site. Choice campsites are right on the water complete with docks, so bring your boat. There’s an RV park as well. land of a 1000 springs

Landlubbers who prefer to just look at the water might find the 1000 Springs Tours (www.1000springs.com) that cruise the Snake River right up their alley. A 52-foot, heated and enclosed Catamaran Cruiser takes you on a “River’s Mist” two-hour, 12-mile dinner or lunch tour (complete with cocktails) where you’ll see waterfalls, birdlife, and maybe even an oversized, prehistoric-looking sturgeon or two. getting there

From Sun Valley it’s less than a two-hour drive to Hagerman Valley. Take Highway 75 south until you hit U.S. 26 and take a right.

Follow it until you hit U.S. 30 and make another left. -Jody Orr Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 53

4

get out there // board sports

mackayriver.com 800.635.5336

sup around the valley Glistening water. Bright sun. Cool Idaho air. Blue skies and towering mountains. This is the idyllic alpine scene each summer at Redfish Lake.

R E A D Y

T O

P L A Y ?

Idaho’s Middle Fork and Salmon Rivers

Boats zip around, pulling waterskiers and wakeboarders. An occasional sailboat or fleet of rented paddleboats bob about.

There are canoes, campers, anglers and surfboards … surf boards? Yes, surf boards.

Stand-up paddleboards, to be exact. The ocean-bred sport has caught on in our beloved mountain state.

“Stand up paddling has definitely taken hold in Idaho and all over the world in land-locked locations,” explains Mike Fox, who owns paddleboard maker, Boardworks, in Oceanside, California, and spends time paddling in the Gem State. “At first you scratch your head thinking, how could this be? But the sport lends itself very well to inland environments. It really is a wonderful alternative to canoeing and kayaking, and also offers the ability to wake surf and fish off the boards.”

Jim Smith owns Stand Up and Paddle Idaho, a Boise-based paddleboard dealer and school that, along with Idaho River Sports, offers lessons to people of all ages, sizes and abilities.

Smith explains that, for some, paddleboarding just comes naturally, “Like so many

Stand Up Paddling (SUP) on Redfish Lake.

other people who grew up surfing or near the water, the desire to get out in the water has never left me even though I live in Idaho.”

Smith says there are few main attractions to the sport. It offers an intense core workout, similar to Pilates, with quite a bit of cardio as well. But he really just enjoys the ability to peacefully cruise around the water on his own time, no motor and no rush. “The thing about it is that because you are standing you get a different perspective of the water. You are looking down on it with new eyes,” he says.

Legend has it that stand up paddleboarding began in the 1960s when tourists wanted pictures of themselves learning to surf. Beach boys would follow them out to take photos while standing on their longboards, using their outrigger canoe paddles for stability.

Casey Schaefer, from Backwoods Mountain Sports in Ketchum, says that paddleboarding has become one of the fastest growing sports in Idaho and that their rental packages are sold out every summer weekend by folks heading up to Redfish, Alturas and Pettit. She even says that inflatable longboards for use on river trips have been gaining popularity as well. –Katie Matteson

bird doggin’

Permittee of Salmon-Challis National Forests

To check out our website, go to www.mobile-barcodes.com to find the right QR Code reader that works best with your smartphone.

Invented on Pettit Lake by two longtime locals, John Dondero and Whiz McNeal (who first called it “Deep Sixing”), Bird Doggin’ is one of the most unique water sports around.

The idea is simple. The only equipment needed is a board, usually shaped like a skateboard deck. The board is attached by both ends to a main rope (between 30 and 60 feet long) that hooks onto the back of a boat. Any boat will do.

Idling along behind the boat is where the magic happens. Surrounded by the mountains and crystal clear water, the “dogger” uses the board as a wing. The slow moving water catches the board and submerges the dogger underwater, where he is free to swoop and dive, roll and turn or gaze up at the sunlight filtering through the water—or they run out of air and surface,which usually comes first. –Kitt Doucette

54 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Instructor Devon Barker at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade.

idaho’s first

paddleboarder: eric kiel / kayaker: kurtis perkins

Whitewater Park

Much to the delight of Gem State kayakers, Kelly’s Whitewater Park (KWP) in Cascade opened last year as Idaho’s first such facility. A collection of five man-made rapids and a stunning Welcome Center on the North Fork of the Payette River at Cascade are the highlights of the park.

A dream come true for boaters, the project was kicked off by a citizen committee in early 2007. Events such as kayak film festivals and “Flatwater Races” helped get the dream rolling.

The park is the result of plenty of effort and determination by local residents and benefactors Mark and Kristina Pickard of Miami Beach and nearby Tamarack Resort. Besides the recreational potential, the park is also seen as a way to buoy Cascade’s economy.

In March 2009, the Pickards contacted the folks putting the park together. The couple was considering a community project and pitched in for a whitewater park named after Kristina’s late sister, Kelly Brennan, a sports enthusiast who passed away in an auto accident at the tender age of 23.

In just five months during the winter of 2009-2010, that included subzero temperatures, construction crews created the features and the Welcome Center, which offers a 180-degree view of the Payette River. A grand opening was held last June and a bronze statue honoring Kelly Brennan was unveiled in August.

Kelly’s Kayak School was assembled to provide free instruction for school-aged kids of Valley County and graduated more than 60 kids last summer. “The Strand,” an all-weather greenbelt, now runs for more than two miles along the Payette and a steel bridge between the shoreline and a rock island that forms the rapids was also installed.

Kelly’s, as it’s simple called by some, has been selected to host this year’s USA Freestyle Kayaking Point Series Championships on July 9-10. It will draw the nation’s best freestyle athletes to perform acrobatics in their tiny boats before thousands of fans. Park supporters see the championships as an opportunity to showcase KWP as one of the top play parks in the nation. Kelly’s will be an active place all summer long with art showings and music each week. -Dan Gallagher Web Extras: For more about what’s happening at KWP, check out www.kellyswhitewaterpark.com

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 55

carved by

water The Salmon River, forever the wild soul of this great state of Idaho

BY Adam Tanous

56 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Overlooking Stanley, Idaho, as the “River of No Return� gently rolls past, making its long journey toward the sea.

Photo Paul Richer.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 57

At first blush, it seems that the Great Basin—an enormous high desert starkly distinguished by what it lacks—will go on forever, and in every imaginable direction. This is, after all, the northernmost tier of a desert that covers five percent of the United States. Before long, though, the waterless earth gives way to the Snake River Plain, a giant crescent of fertile, alluvial terrain cradling southern Idaho. Cross the river at Twin Falls, and crops spring from the land: corn, potatoes, alfalfa. Soon, the earth begins to roll in waves, small towns appear, dots on a line: Shoshone, Bellevue, Hailey and Ketchum. Trees begin to populate the land. Gone is the sea of sagebrush and volcanic rock. Suddenly the gentle rolls of the earth push up toward the sky and the hills are now mountains.

The road follows the Big Wood River, winding up into the far reaches of Galena Summit at 8,701 feet.

Travel up over the pass and there it unfolds as wide and grand as any Western vista—Salmon River country—14,000 square miles of wild, pristine terrain, drained by the river the Northern Shoshoni called “Tom Agit Pah,” or Big Fish Water. Bethine Church, 88, widow of Senator Frank Church, for whom 2.36 million acres of Idaho wilderness was named, describes this land, a slice of which she grew up on 48 miles from the headwaters, as simply “…a piece of God’s green Earth.”

When it comes to rivers, it’s a bit of a fool’s errand to pinpoint beginnings. Rivers are cyclical and variable and don’t always conform to linear thinking. Nonetheless, for those with the urge, it is an easy drive from Galena Summit to Forest Service Road 215. Follow that to its end, and then begin to hike. It’s easy walking as the three-foot- wide river thins out, branches into its tiniest capillaries, then suddenly, it’s like nothing more than a network of wet areas, small groundwater sources here, then over there, and quickly the exercise begins to feel like finding the end of a rainbow. Perhaps a more interesting realization is that one can cup his hands in these headwaters, gather up a handful of the Salmon River, and know that water, within a couple of weeks, will reach the Pacific Ocean more than 900 miles away. Along the way, this river—the central artery of the state—will be filled by hundreds of streams big and small as it rolls north and west 425 miles to the Snake River, then on to the Columbia and the coast. These tributaries include the Yankee Fork, East Fork, Pahsimeroi, Lemhi, North Fork, Middle Fork, South Fork, and Little Salmon Rivers.

It’s the long journey that the river’s namesake salmon 58 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

clockwise: echo river trips / idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / mackay wilderness river trips (2) / idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / row adventures: tom bear

Drive north out of Wells, Nevada, and it’s a straight shot, no more than four hours, into the soul of Idaho.

CHALLIS

“A Small Town with a Big Heart!” elevation: 5,253’ located: Hwy 93 and 75 population: 909 county: Custer founded: 1878 famous watering hole:

Bux’s Place, Main Street Home to the Land of the Yankee Fork State Park and Interpretive Center.

interesting:

FLYING B RANCH

www.mapsbymikereagan.com

“Last stop before Impassible Canyon!” elevation: 3,600’ located: Mile 67, Middle Fork of the Salmon River population: 7 to 10 county: Lewis founded: Originally farmed in 1930s, incorporated 1961 famous watering hole:

Flying B Lounge (for guests) and lawn (for passersthrough). interesting: The 5,000-acre ranch is accessible only by plane, foot, boat or horseback.

CLAYTON

make as young smelts from their birthplaces in Redfish Lake, Alturas Lake, and other stream beds in the Sawtooth Valley. They travel downriver through towns that have sprung up on its banks—Sawtooth City, Stanley, Clayton, Challis, Salmon, Shoup, Riggins, White Bird, then on to the Snake River, Lewiston, Astoria, and the Pacific Ocean. After living for just a few years in the ocean, these same fish journey back up nearly a thousand river miles to their birthplace, where they spawn and then die—a cycle completed.

An Enduring Presence

Anyone who has spent any time along a river has felt the ease rushing water brings to the soul. It is indiscriminate to walk of life, age, or riches. Part of the reason why might lie in the enduring presence of a river like the Salmon.

Relative to our lifetimes, the river is a constant. It was there before us and will likely be there long after us.

Our relationship to this river is just a tiny fraction of its long geologic history. Geologists estimate that the Salmon River began forming two million years ago during the

glacial and interglacial periods of the last Ice Age. The central force in our lives, gravity, acted on the most basic and plentiful of substances, water, to give rise to the thousands of streams and rivers that began to sculpt the canyons of the Salmon as we know them today.

And now consider that the earliest known inhabitants of the Salmon River country were ancestors of the Northern Shoshoni and Nez Perce Native Americans.

Archeological studies of arrowheads and other tools place the earliest inhabitants in the canyon 8,500 years ago.

The Shoshoni lived primarily in the northern areas in the Lemhi Valley and on into the Salmon River country proper. The Nez Perce were more clustered around the Middle Fork.

To put this in perspective, if one were to normalize the river’s flowing life to a single year, man’s 8,500 years on it would be the equivalent of 37 hours. Like a rich family heritage, an old river puts our lives in context, provides a sense of stability and permanence. Although our time is limited, there is a structure around us that endures. That brings some level of comfort.

“The Town that Refuses to Die.” elevation: 5,489’ located: The Salmon River Scenic Byway-Highway 75 population: 26 county: Custer founded: 1880 famous watering hole:

Hoodoo Saloon, Silver Street interesting: From 1880 to 1984 was Idaho’s premier silver producing area.

(Clockwise from top left) Middle Fork River, Echo River Trips; Fly fisherman, Idaho River Journeys; Riding the bull and Campfire, Mackay Wilderness River Trips; Happy rafters, Idaho River Journeys; Jumping for joy, ROW Adventures.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 59

60 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

clockwise: boise state university library, bethine church digital collection / idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / row adventures: tom bear / helfrich river outfitters / courtesy bobi smith / courtesy brent estep

River outfitters have some perspective on this. Joe Daly, who owns Echo River Trips with Dick Linford, has for 40 years taken thousands of people down dozens of rivers, often the Middle Fork and Main Salmon.

As Daly sees it, “When our river guests step off the bus at put-in . . . Their new guideposts are breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with the sun and moon . . . rounding bend after bend in the river, we can see their other world worries wash away . . . For a time, they are set free from their everyday concerns.”

The European-Americans Move West At the turn of the 19th century, the French controlled New Orleans and access to the Mississippi River, a major artery of commerce for U.S. traders. President Thomas Jefferson, concerned about the possibility of Napoleon denying the United States access to the port and river system, authorized James Monroe to purchase the city for $10 million. Napoleon, in turn, offered to sell not just New Orleans, but the entire Louisiana Territory for $15 million. Monroe agreed.

And because he knew little about what he had actually bought, in 1803, Jefferson charged Meriwether Lewis and William Clark with exploring up the Missouri River—which takes a diagonal path right through what was then the Louisiana Territory—and ultimately to find a path to the Pacific Ocean. By August 1805, Clark had reached the Salmon River just below North Fork, Idaho. In attempting to find an easy water route to the ocean, the explorer traveled downriver as far as Pine Creek rapid, at which point surveying the rapid and cliffs along the river downstream with his Shoshoni guide Old Toby, he decided the river was not passable.

Furs and Gold

Although the Corps of Discovery turned back away from the river at this point, the journey brought attention to the area, and soon pioneers seeking furs and gold began poking their way into these new lands. In 1824, Alexander Ross and members of the Hudson’s Bay Company traveled over Galena Summit, down the river to Challis, trapping animals. And in 1863, John Stanley, a gold prospector, explored the Stanley area and on into Bear Valley, near the headwaters of the Middle Fork.

It was the allure of gold that pushed new explorations down the Main Salmon itself. With prospecting giving way to hard rock mining, stamp mills and other large pieces of equipment were needed downstream.

In the late 1880s, boatmen like “Cap” Guleke built 32-foot-long wooden scows with oars front and back to ferry supplies from Salmon to Shoup and other mining settlements on the river. But it wasn’t until 1896 that Cap Guleke made the first documented downriver passage of the Salmon River from Salmon to Riggins, nearly 165 miles. Given that there was no way to get

the boats back to Salmon, Guleke and those who followed him simply sold the boats for lumber (typically $5) and took horses back to Salmon. A river moniker was born, “River of No Return.”

The Modern Era: Adventure and Outfitting

Where the river once provided sustenance for Native Americans, then opportunity and wealth for the pioneering trappers and placer miners, after the turn of the 20th century, it became a nexus of adventure for outfitters and their clients.

And if there is a first family of outfitting on the Salmon River, it is the Smith family. Clyde Smith and his teenage son, Don, built their first wooden scow in 1930 and ran it from North Fork down the Salmon to Long Tom Rapid, where they wrecked just before the confluence with the Middle Fork. This became the site of the family home they would build. Then in 1945, Clyde and Don took the Army Corps of Engineers down the river in a wooden scow to survey it. Along with them, they took a 17-foot boat with a 22-horsepower engine to ferry surveyors up and down the river. This was the nascent beginnings of the Salmon River jet boat business.

The Smith family, running its “Salmon River Boat Trips” out of the North Fork Store, created for the first time an outfitting business, taking fishermen and hunters into the river corridor. Don’s sons, Bob, Jack and Ken, in turn, all grew up on the river and all became outfitters. The Smiths were also innovators. It was in 1948 that the Smiths first took a party down the Salmon in a welded aluminum boat, a material more forgiving than the green-wood scows used up to that time. Bob Smith, who died five years ago, was particularly adept at building and navigating boats. His daughter, Bobbi, now 40 and working at a guest ranch on the Middle Fork, says her dad, “never wanted to go anywhere else, this was his life.

He was a boatman, a hardworking, good person, just a sweetheart.” Bobbi describes how her Grandmother Marian, when she saw Bob’s intense interest in the river life, sent him off to Seattle to learn how to make boats. And make boats he did—welded aluminum boats with motors that could navigate upriver.

Bob and his wife Jill built a home at Hughes Creek in North Fork, Idaho. And after working out of several camps on the river, including the old Guth camp at Barth Creek, Bob eventually built the China Bar Lodge at Lemhi Creek on the Salmon. Over the years, he earned the reputation as one of the most skilled boatmen on the river. With his motorized aluminum boats and up river “jet backs,” Bob put to rest the moniker “River of No Return.” It was the beginning of a generation of boatmen working the river—up and down—taking guests into the wilderness to hunt, fish and sightsee. But Bob’s knowledge and skill continued on page 108

NORTH FORK

“Last Stop as you Enter the Frank Church Wilderness Area.” elevation: 3,620’ located: Highway 93, where North Fork joins the Main Salmon River population: 204 county: Lemhi founded: Unincorporated famous watering hole:

North Fork Store and Café Where Lewis and Clark picked up the guide who got them lost near what is now known as “Lost Trail Pass” near the Idaho/ Montana border.

interesting:

Salmon

“The Best of What Rural America is.” elevation: 3,944’ located: Highways 93 and 28 population: 3,300 county: Lemhi founded: 1866 famous watering hole:

The Owl Club Where the Lewis and Clark expedition first encountered Shoshone Indian Sacagawea.

interesting:

Stanley

“A Playground for All Seasons.” elevation: 6,253’ located: Highways 75 and 21 population: 100 county: Custer founded: 1890 famous watering hole:

Kasino Club

interesting: In 2005, elected

youngest female mayor in U. S. history, Hannah Stauts.

(Clockwise from top left) The Frank Church family poses for their annual Christmas card in the Sawtooth Mountains, circa 1968; Idaho River Journeys guests enjoy a calm section of the Middle Fork; A ROW Adventures guide rows guests downriver; Dan Bentsen of Helfrich Outfitters running Pistol Creek Rapid in a boat that he built; Bob Smith bringing a Volkswagen bus to Flying B Ranch on the Middle Fork, circa 1969; Brent Estep’s father, uncle and grandfather with a string of salmon, on the upper stretch of the Middle Fork, circa 1947.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 61

left clockwise: idaho river journeys: tysun mcmullan / echo river trips / white otter right clockwise: mackay wilderness trips / far and away adventures / sawtooth adventure company

on the water Idaho is a whitewater Mecca, with rivers that range from gentle floats along flat water with amazing fishing to some of the rowdiest rapids in the entire world.

The Grand Daddy of all Idaho river trips is the Middle Fork of the Salmon. World famous for its enticing mixture of wildlife, scenic beauty, remoteness, and exciting whitewater, it lives up to the hype whether you’re a novice in the world of rivers and rafting or a seasoned veteran who loves to kayak. If you want do the 4 to 7 day trip on your own, however, you’ll have to get pretty lucky and win one of the few permits in the annual lottery. If you don’t win the lottery, you can always book a trip down the Middle Fork with one of the many established outfitters operating out of Stanley, Idaho, a beautiful one-hour drive north of Ketchum. They offer everything from bare-bones trips to white-tablecloth extravagance. -Kitt Doucette

echo river trips

Established in 1972, ECHO prides itself on its professional and personable river guides who know what it takes to make a good trip a legendary adventure. This family-oriented company emphasizes quality on every trip and seeks to enrich the lives of their guests with an ecologically sound, meaningful and memorable vacation. Selected by National Geographic as one of 2009’s Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth, ECHO offers rafting trips on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, the Rogue River and numerous other trips from Alaska to Nepal.

800.652.3246 www.echotrips.com

far and away adventures

Launch an adventure of a lifetime and embark on one of the West’s most storied rivers, the Middle Fork, with the crew at Far and Away 62 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Adventures. Revel in out-of-the-ordinary offerings like private massages, chalet tents and organic, seasonal fare while around every rapid and river bend you will find a spontaneous dose of magic beauty. Customize a week-long trip to suit your group’s tastes and desires. From a fly fishing getaway to a fun family vacation, you envision the experience and we elevate it with fivestar service. This summer, Far and Away is offering 2-and 3-night getaways.

800.232.8588 www.far-away.com

idaho river journeys

The team at Idaho River Journeys has been floating, fly fishing, exploring, star-gazing, hot springs-soaking, hiking and having fun on the Middle Fork and Main Salmon since 1978. Family-friendly, knowledgeable guides, top-notch equipment, delicious and widely-

acclaimed camp meals featuring locally sourced ingredients, and very careful attention to the details make for a great vacation.

Idaho River Journeys also hosts the Middle Fork Writing Workshop. This year’s workshop, scheduled from August 17-21, will feature travel writers Tim Cahill and Michael Shapiro.

888.997.8399 www.idahoriverjourneys.com

mackay wilderness trips

Guiding whitewater rafting trips on Idaho rivers for over 30 years has taught the crew at Mackay Wilderness Trips what it takes to run comfortable, safe and fun trips. The guides are knowledgeable in history, geology, plants and wildlife and, when not paddling, teaching or setting up comfortable campsite, they’re cooking up some of the best Dutchoven meals you’ll ever experience. Trips on the Main Salmon offer a Kid Wrangler program,

sawtooth adventure company

where trained professionals do fun, educational events with the kids while the parents relax.

800.635.5336 www.mackayriver.com

payette river company

Specializing in rafting trips on the raucous South Fork of the Payette River, about an hour north of Boise, the Payette River Company (PRC) covers some of the rowdiest whitewater in the Gem State. Providing anything from half-day family trips to three-day adventures, PRC’s lead guide is kayaking legend Sean Glaccum (see story, page 72). Besides offering four different runs on the Payette, from nice mellow Class II rapids to 15 miles of the wildest Class IV rapids in the state, PRC also offers multi-day trips on the Owyhee River.

208.259.3702 www.payetteriver.com

Since 2001, Sawtooth Adventure Company (SAC) has experienced phenomenal growth on Idaho’s Salmon River, which is a direct result of the charming guides and the superior quality of their trips.

Offering world-class adventure vacations on Idaho’s Salmon River and in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area (SNRA), SAC trips include guided rafting, kayaking, mountain biking and fly fishing trips throughout the summer season. All day trips begin at the Sawtooth Adventure Company Headquarters in Lower Stanley on Highway 75 in the heart of the SNRA. 866.774.4644 www.sawtoothadventure.com

white otter

The folks at White Otter love what they do—and it shows. Specializing in guided day and half-day trips for families and groups of all sizes and ages, White Otter offers a little something for everyone. Experienced guides offer outstanding service and exceptional knowledge of the local area. A day on the Salmon River with White Otter is sure to be one of your most memorable days of the summer. White Otter also offers float fishing trips and rents boats and equipment from their location in Sunbeam, just downriver from Stanley.

877.788.5005 www.whiteotter.com Web Extras: For more impressive river company photos check out www.sunvalleymag.com

a view from the river Getting a single chance to float the Middle Fork is a life-changing experience. So what happens to those precious few folks who’ve spent much of their lives on the “River of No Return?” Well, they’re the type of people we refer to as having “lived well.”

Steve Lentz is one of those folks. “It’s definitely a life-changing experience,” said Lentz, who owns the only Middle Fork outfitting company located in the Wood River Valley, Far and Away Adventures. “Or as we like to say, there is ‘magic in the moment,’ and there are lots of those moments on a Middle Fork trip.”

Lentz first floated the Middle Fork with his family in the fateful summer of ‘69 when he was just 14. A few years later, he hitchhiked his way up to Stanley, from his home in California, to try to get a job on the river, but was turned down for being too young. He returned the following season and has been pretty much working on the river ever since.

Lentz first founded his outfitting company in 1981, and its name officially became Far and Away Adventures in 1991.

“It’s tough to beat time on the river. Every trip offers such eyeopening experiences, experiences that you just can’t find anyplace else,” Lentz said.

You might think that after more than 40 years of rafting and taking tourists from all over the world on whitewater trips, even the mighty Middle Fork would eventually dampen a man’s spirits. But Steve Lentz isn’t that type of man.

“It’s very fulfilling to help people check something off their ‘Bucket List.’ It’s also amazing to watch the families and people re-connect and build traditions,” Lentz said, adding with a smile. “And as we sometimes joke, it’s fun to help put people, especially moms, in touch with their wild sides.” -SVM Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 63

PHOTOG R

APHY Nic k Price

64 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Fish Fo od

A pee k

at t The Woo d River V he fare t all h life are t he reason ey is a trout lover’s at drives s why. H Mecca. C trout ere we p cr rofile a fe ool, clean water a nd abund azy w of the ant region’s m ost belov insect ed bugs.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 65

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Damself ly

Insecta: Odonata Suborder: Zygoptera 1. Emergence: May - August 2. Life Cycle: Egg, nymph, adult, spinner 3. Location: Riffles, runs and flats in slow moving water 4. Size: 8-12

“If you go out to fish and you don’t take a minute to look around, to listen to the birds and enjoy the view then you are missing so much,” said Phil Crabtree, who’s 73 and still works as a fly fishing guide for Silver Creek Outfitters.

“I may be one of the oldest guides on the planet, but I still love it. I live vicariously through my clients. If they catch a fish, I catch a fish and that’s why I keep doing it,” Phil said with an easy smile, adding, “and there’s nothing like catching a fish on a dry fly.”

Damselflies are members of the dragonfly family and are some of the biggest and most striking dry flies (bugs that fish eat off the surface of the water).

“We usually fish such small flies so it’s great when the big terrestrials come out. There’s nothing like watching a fish rise to a big fly,” Phil said.

In mid-summer, when the water at places like Silver Creek starts to weed up, the damselflies will hang around the weed pads, while the hungry trout linger along the pads’ edges waiting for them to slip off.

“They’re everywhere at some point in the summer and that’s great for someone my age, because they’re easy to see,” Phil joked.

But Phil’s passion for fly fishing and sharing his love for the sport is no joke. “I’m going to keep doing this until I guess I can’t keep doing it,” he said. “I’ve been fishing for eons and I still learn something everyday.

I’m lucky enough to be out there.”

-Mike McKenna, author of the awardwinning "Gone Fishing" blog on www.sunvalleymag.com

Brown Drake Genus: Ephemera Species: Simulans

1. Emergence: June - August 2. Life Cycle: Egg, nymph, adult, spinner 3. Location: Rivers and lakes, predominate in slow water 4. Size: 8-12

}

There are events in nature that often leave the mind spinning at their grandeur, complexity and enormity. On Silver Creek, one of these events takes place annually. The early summer occurrence of the burrower mayfly known as brown drake goes beyond a “great hatch.” It reaches into the realm of the surreal and perhaps supernatural to anyone, fly angler or not, who witnesses the event.

What makes the brown drake event special is the sheer magnitude of it.

Whereas most insects “hatch” and “spin” over the course of weeks and even months, the brown drake completes its life cycle often within 3 to 4 days. The brevity of the event means the insects have to show in numbers rarely seen by people, and coupled with the fact it is normally a dusk to darkness event, even fewer people are treated to the spectacle.

During the “hatch” insects can become so thick on the water’s surface, the bodies and shucks they shed can literally blanket every inch of the river.

The fish gorge themselves, often to the point where drakes spill out of their gills as no room is left in their stomachs, but they just keep eating!

Even though the fish are gorging themselves, the fly fishing can be challenging. Sometimes there are just too many choices for the fish as the angler's fly becomes a needle in a haystack.

Whether you fish or not, seeing the brown drake on Silver Creek during the right evening can leave a person reflecting deeply on our natural world. It is an event and migration unparalleled in the state of Idaho, and can leave you with your mouth hanging open, although during the event, it may be best to breathe through your nose! -John Huber, owner of Ketchum On The Fly

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 67

}

Pale Morning Dun

Genus: Ephemerella Species: Inermis & Infrequens 1. Emergence: May - August 2. Life Cycle: Egg, nymph, adult, spinner 3. Location: Riffles, runs and flats in slow-moving water 4. Size: 14-18

For anyone who’s ever cast a fly rod across a cool mountain stream, the term “mayfly” is held in lofty esteem.

Simply mentioning the word “mayfly” to a fly fisher almost always elicits a smile. And there’s no better example of a classic mayfly than the Pale Morning Dun (PMD).

“It’s a true mayfly hatch. It starts in May, often in late May, just as the season is starting and goes right through July, usually,” explained Scott Schnebly, arguably the most wellknown fly fishing guide in and outside the Wood River Valley.

Scott’s been fishing the waters of central Idaho for four decades and owns Lost River Outfitters in Ketchum.

“The first ones are giant, but as the season and summer comes on they get smaller. The fish have been feeding on micro stuff all winter. It’s the first large morsel of the season to eat so they go after them, which makes it great if you’re fishing. Anybody can catch a fish on a PMD in the early season when they’re going off,” he said.

PMDs belong to the crawler group of mayflies. The average hatch lasts for only an hour. The really odd thing about PMDs, according to Schnebly, is that they occasionally all but disappear on places like Silver Creek and the Henry’s Fork of the Snake for a few years, only to reappear as prolific as ever.

Scott’s favorite PMD imitations are Parachute Sulfer and Trim Thorax PMD. He also recommends long leaders and skinny tippet—always.

“It’s a handsome fly. It has bright colors and you can see it well. It’s really the bread-and-butter hatch on Silver Creek, and most spring creeks and tailwaters,” Schnebly said.

-Mike McKenna

Grasshopper Genus: Metaleptea Order: Orthoptera

1. Emergence: July - September 2. Life Cycle: Egg, nymph, adult 3. Location: Rivers and lakes, especially on windy days 4. Size: 8-14

}

The strike was so explosive I shrieked like a teen with “Bieber Fever.”

I’d been shaking off fish under 15 inches all afternoon on Silver Creek, and this hog was twice that size. Most days aren’t like that—hell, a lot of years aren’t like that—but last year was one of those special ones.

Local farmers had been warned of a grasshopper plague, and like many fly fishing addicts, I was excited, but had no idea how awesome the fishing really would be. For weeks, I was waist-deep in foam at my fly-tying table and spent as much time on “The Creek” as I could, whether with my clients or friends.

One hot late-summer day, I had my favorite group of ladies on their first day on Silver Creek. We fished tricos in the morning and then I sat them down for a serious discussion about hopper fishing. I had rules—they thought I was crazy—then they saw the fish.

It sounded like bowling balls were dropping all around us. I could barely contain my excitement and think the ladies soon caught it, too. They all broke off the biggest trout of their lives, but ended the day in smiles.

I’ve been guiding in the Wood River Valley for five years and I’m still beside myself when I see a fish eat a hopper—either mine or a client's. Just when I’m getting tired or working too many days in a row, tying on the first hoppers of the summer reinvigorates me for the rest of the season. I’m already shaking just thinking about it and what’s to come. - Morgan Buckert, fly fishing guide for Sturtevants Web Extra: Get more information on tricos, caddis, callibaetis and when and where to fish them at www.sunvalleymag.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 69

kayak addicts/

BY Joe Carberry

Idahoans with whitewater running through their veins

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1. Henry Munter launches into the “Ludwig Rapid” on the Main Salmon River. Photo Matt Leidecker. 2. Erik Boomer. Photo Richard Hallman. 3. Ryan Casey in “Crunch Rapid” on the North Fork of the Payette River. Photo Mike Reid. 4. Devon Barker getting ready on the Salmon River. Photo Eric J. Hansen. 5. Hayden Voorhees on the Main Fork of the Payette River. Photo Michael DeYoung.

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ith apologies to the potato, Idaho is arguably most famous for its rivers. Fantastic drainages that tumble from high in the Rocky Mountains and cut through the most rugged, uninhabited terrain in the continental United States. These wild rivers, like the Salmon, Selway and Payette, have bred generations of whitewater kayakers–adventurers who’ve helped to define

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Idaho’s outdoor lifestyle. Many of these paddlers have traveled around the world, making their marks on the history of river exploration in the process. Others are just getting started. Regardless of where they’ve wandered with boat and paddle, their paddling careers started in Idaho— the Whitewater State. Here, we profile some of the Gem State’s best paddlers.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 71

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’ve Life’s about the adventure and you just got to embrace it and go for it. –Erik Boomer

1. Erik Boomer, dropping a first descent on Outlet Falls, WA. Photo Richard Hallman.

2. Erik Boomer. Photo Sarah McNair-Landry. 3. Henry Munter on the Namorona River in the Ranomofana National Park, Madagascar. Photo Evan Ross. 4. Henry Munter navigating a tight section of Loon Creek near its terminus at the Middle Fork. Photo James Bourret.

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ERIK BOOMER

Age: 26 Hometown: American Falls, ID Current Location: Hood River, OR First Descent: Outlet Falls, WA

Erik Boomer is sitting in his kayak looking down on a calm pool that feeds into an 80-foot waterfall as his buddies lower him down with a rope tied to the tail end of his boat. The entrance to the falls is unrunnable so this is the only way he can get to the drop. Without a second thought, Boomer leans back and severs the rope with his river knife, sending him plunging toward the water.

As he’s falling the 15 feet toward the pool, he leans forward and grabs his paddle with both hands.

His first stroke plummets him over the falls. Aside from a cut to his head, he styles the drop.

Calmly, and quietly, as if all this chaos was normal.

That’s pretty much how Erik Boomer, 26, rolls. He’s like an unassuming rock star, if that’s even possible. He’s a ridiculously good boater but talking big isn’t his thing (think Slash—the Guns & Roses version), going big is (think Robert Plant with

Jack Johnson’s attitude). He’s been the first to huck monstrous waterfalls from Hood River, Oregon, to Michigan’s North Shore to Quebec. He’s been featured in countless high-end whitewater videos and been part of some fantastic exploratory teams all over North America. But still, he’s just an unassuming kid from Idaho, who learned to boat from a family friend in junior high when he was living in American Falls.

Boomer is still running some of the biggest whitewater in the world but he’s developing other aspects of his life now. His photography has taken off and he’s able to support himself off his work. Plus he’s looking at new projects. This summer, he’ll embark on one of his most ambitious expeditions to date: circumnavigating Ellesmere Island, directly north of Baffin Island near Greenland, basically the starting point for North Pole Expeditions. Along with world waterfall record holder Tyler Bradt and celebrated sea kayaker Jon Turk, Boomer will drag his kayak 600 miles before paddling. The trip will take an estimated three

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months. “I love the big drop thing and running hard whitewater but I want to raise the bar in other areas to a similar level,” he says.

“Extreme conditions. Extreme survival. It all appeals to me.”

It’s a trip that shows the ultimate maturity as a paddler. Most upper echelon kayakers simply quit boating once they’ve finished their Class V careers, unable to replicate that amped feeling with less hazardous strains of boating. “But there’s so much to enjoy in kayaking,” Boomer says. “Life’s about the adventure and you’ve just got to embrace it and go for it. And there’s nothing like living out of your kayak for days on end.”

HENRY MUNTER

Age: 29 Hometown: Ketchum, ID Current Location: Girdwood, AK Favorite Descent: Murtaugh section of the Snake River, ID

When Henry Munter was 16, he showed up at the North Fork (of the Payette River) Race with his dad on the river’s upper five miles. His heavily used Perception Dancer was tied to the top

of the truck, the bow roped to the bumper the stern attached to the rear of the vehicle. To judge a book by its cover, he looked like a rookie. “I went up to the organizer and he was kind of like, ‘you can wait in the back and somebody can show you down the river,’” he says.

The North Fork tends to make people nervous (especially event organizers) when they think someone who’s inexperienced is trying to jump on the frothing monster.

But Munter assured the organizer he knew what he was doing, grabbed his gear and headed for the starting line. Forty-five minutes later, the young Ketchum native had won the race.

The radar is something Munter, now 29, is accustomed to flying far beneath. He hasn’t appeared in any big name videos, his name isn’t the first to come up in conversations referencing elite expedition paddlers. But it should. Ecuador, Peru, Nepal, Canada’s Stikine—twice.

He’s been there, done that. And somehow, he’s managed to avoid any deserved media attention while simply doing what matters most to him: paddling.

I’ve got a bunch of rivers I’d like to do…I guess I’d just like rest of my life. –Henry Munter to be running whitewater for the

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 73

But in 2008, Munter left an indelible mark on the expedition world with good friends Matt Wilson and Evan Ross. The trio had heard stories about Madagascar and its healthy dose of granite bedrock drainages that had yet to see paddlers. So they made a contact in the island nation, located off the eastern coast of Africa, and in paddling terms, “went for s*&%*.” They completed two full first descents and finished a third river that had only been partially explored–each required nearly seven days of living out of their kayaks. “We’d heard it was stacked over there,” Munter says. “Every one of those rivers required technical scouting and rope work. But the whitewater was awesome.”

A gifted skier, Munter works the winter season in Alaska, heli guiding for Chugach Powder Guides. He also works summers as a river guide for trips on the Main and Middle Fork of the Salmon.

This leaves the shoulder seasons for boating. “I’ve got a really good setup right now,” Munter says.

“I’ve got a bunch of rivers I’d like to do. I want to get back down to Peru. That place is just magic.

I guess I’d just like to be running whitewater for the rest of my life.”

SEAN GLACCUM

Age: 33 Hometown: Ketchum, ID Favorite Descent: Raughat Khola in the Himalayas

In the fall of 2002, Sean Glaccum trudged up a side creek that fed the Modi Kola, a raging river that drains Annapurna, one of 10 peaks more than 26,000-feet high in the Himalaya. Accompanied by a porter and German friend, Andy Sommer, the group climbed above a beautiful series of runnable waterfalls, the crucible a 40-footer that spat out at an odd angle toward a vertical granite wall. The waterfall didn’t crash into the rock but it was 74 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

darned close. A dicey landing zone for sure.

But Glaccum saw a line. So the 6’4” paddler, with long blonde hair wrapped in a ponytail, slipped into his plastic “creek” boat­–which seemed small considering the drop he was about to run–pulled the neoprene skirt over his cockpit to seal out the water and pushed off the bank into the eddy. A couple of strokes and he was plunging over the falls, doing his best to tuck forward and protect himself.

He landed violently in the aerated water below, his boat slamming against the wall. But he easily rolled up and his hoots and hollering could be heard echoing off the tight canyon walls.

The modern era has seen many great paddling explorers, some have run tougher whitewater, but none have become as adept at navigating the Himalayan river scene as Glaccum, 33, a Wood River High alum who has spent over a decade paddling in Nepal and northern India each fall, first as a raft guide, then on his soulful mission to try and paddle the rivers draining those 10 monstrous peaks. He’s completed eight so far, including an epic trip below Everest that was a first descent of the rowdy Cho Oyu Bode Kosi. His attempts to run rivers off K2 and Nanga Parbat in Pakistan were thwarted by the 2001 terrorist attacks in New York.

These days, Glaccum has turned his attention back to rafting (he and wife Ginger own the Payette River Company on the South Fork of the Payette), and completing as many first descents as possible. “I guess first descents aren’t the most important thing,” he says. “But rafting is a good way to push the envelope because there’s still a lot of things that haven’t been done in them.” Glaccum and his paddle rafting team plan to return to Nepal this year for an expedition on the Dudh Kosi, the main river draining

Everest. Maravia, a Boise-based raft company, has sponsored the expedition with a custom raft.

Glaccum’s yearly missions have always included trips to local orphanages, where he brings supplies and money donated by sponsors. “But I wasn’t always sure the money was going to the kids,” Glaccum says. So this year, his team will work on the cholera epidemic. “Basically, people die from diarrhea,” he says. “They’re likely to survive if they simply rehydrate.

So we’ll be transporting rehydration salts out to the boonies.” He might not be running any big drops this trip. But he hopes to be a big help to the local people of Nepal he’s come to love.

Aside from paddling, Glaccum recently released Idaho’s newest guidebook, The Idaho Paddler: Whitewater Gems, and is working on a new guide to Himalayan rivers.

GERRY MOFFATT

Age: 46 Hometown: Edinburgh, Scotland Current Location: Ketchum, ID Favorite Descent: The Grand Canyon of the Stikine, BC

Gerry Moffatt learned to kayak as a schoolboy in Scotland during the wet, cold winters, back when wool was a paddling accessory.

He’s paddled rivers all over the world but one particular river brought him to Idaho: the North Fork of the Payette. “It’s just a legendary run,” says the now 46-year-old. “I’d heard so much about it, I had to paddle it.”

So the enterprising Scot landed a job guiding rafts and ran the North Fork daily. The sport’s ultimate testing ground, the North Fork is a place where aficionados do anything they can to live near it, eking out a living so they can

Floating a river is about the most fun thing y Moffatt you could do on the planet. –Gerr

1. Gerry Moffatt enjoying his morning tea at Explore Bhutan’s “basecamp” on the Mo Chhu where he is intimately involved in the management and development. Photo Jed Weingarten. 2. Gerry Moffatt hucks Spirit Falls on the Little White Salmon River in WA. Photo Charlie Munsey. 3. Sean Glaccum at Bull Run Creek. Photo Brian White.

Rafting is a good way to push the envelope

because there’s still a lot of things that haven’t been done in them. –Sean Glaccum

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1. Connor Voorhees. Photo Michael DeYoung. 2. Hayden Voorhees surfing the Bladder Wave on the Main Payette River. Photo Mike Leeds. 3. The Voorhees family scouting “Go Left” rapid on the Main Fork Payette River. Photo Michael DeYoung. 4. Alec and Hayden Voorhees on the Main Fork of the Salmon. Photo Michael DeYoung.

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lose themselves in the 15 miles of relentless rapids every single day.

And they become world-class paddlers in the process.

Moffatt eventually settled in Ketchum because of its easy-going community and easier access to skiing. But not before he paddled extensively in the Himalaya where he’s kayaked every major drainage. Each fall he’d travel to Nepal and guide, eventually investing in a rafting operation, Equator Expeditions, and training local guides to lead tourists down world-renowned classics like the Sun Kosi, Kali Gandaki and Marsyangdi. When Nepal’s season ended, Gerry would venture overland through the Karakorum Mountains spanning India, China and Pakistan and into Afghanistan looking for new rivers.

Along the way, Moffatt became an expert cameraman, documenting most of his river exploits on film. One of his most

ambitious filming endeavors was the “Triple Crown,” an unprecedented project he lined up for Men’s Journal and the Outdoor Life Network. In 1998, Moffatt, along with Sun Valley’s Reggie Crist and a group of talented paddlers, including Whitewater Hall of Famer Rob Lesser, ran three of the biggest whitewater runs in North America—Canada’s Grand Canyon of the Stikine and Susitna and Alaska’s Alsek—in one pressure-packed, four-week period.

Gerry continued his work in Nepal, but political unrest in the country sent him looking elsewhere in Asia for adventure.

Neighboring Bhutan, tucked into the Himalaya, which for centuries acted as a barrier to invasion, is one of the most pristine river-running destinations in the world and Moffatt has developed inroads there. In the last decade he’s opened up countless Bhutanese rivers while working closely

Hayden and Connor saw me in the water and

wanted to try and beat me. I think it’s that

brother, competitive edge thing that makes them

want to get into it. –Alec Voorhees

with the government to build a sustainable adventure tourism industry; training guides and building a lodge in the idyllic Punakha Valley for visiting river runners. “Bhutan has really taken a mindful approach to developing tourism,” he says. “They’re embracing commercialism in an environmentally conscious way.

They don’t want it to impact their culture the way it has in other Asian countries.”

This mindful approach affected Moffatt. After years of pushing the envelope on hard whitewater, he’s at ease just teaching others to love the river. He no longer has to run death-defying rapids to have fun. “It’s a different focus for me,” Moffatt expresses in a calm Scottish brogue. “I want to promote participation. So much of the sport’s marketing is focused on the extreme. Floating a river is about the most fun thing you could do on the planet. You want people to have fun.”

Still, he’s proud of the paddlers he’s influenced but says he’s just part of a chain of paddling heroes who taught him the same thing: to love the river—and to protect it for future generations.

THE VOORHEES

Ages: Alec, 14, Hayden 11, Connor 7 Hometown: Meridian, ID Favorite Descents: North Fork of the Payette, ID (Alex); South Fork of the Payette, ID (Hayden); Main Payette & Indian Creek, ID (Connor)

If you were to pass by the Banks’ parking lot at the confluence of the Payette’s North and South Forks just over a decade ago, you may have noticed a playpen, where a watchful mother or father kept an eye over their young child under the shade of a tree. This is how Mike and Jody Voorhees— both dedicated paddlers—got their boating fix. “We’d switch off,” says Jody. “I’d do a run and he’d watch Alec, then he’d go.”

Maybe it was all this watching and not doing that made Alec

want to be a boater. Or maybe it was the attention he got, his dad says. But right from the start, the kid wanted to be a paddler.

Eleven years and two kids later, the Voorhees are a paddling family, thanks in large part to new kayaks made for kids. Alec, 14, has been the example, being the aggressive water kid who set the bar for little brothers Hayden, 11, and Connor, 7. “Hayden and Connor saw me in the water and wanted to try and beat me,” he says. “I think it’s that brother, competitive edge thing that makes them want to get into it.”

They have big shoes to fill.

Alec finished second at last year’s National Freestyle Championships in Colorado in the under-14 division. But he’s really found his groove as a river runner and has become a part of the North Fork tradition. Mike started leading Alec down the big run a couple of years ago and Alec has slowly progressed and is now turning the tables. Last summer, as the North Fork exploded to record flood levels, Alec ran the lower five miles nearly 10 times and has done top to bottom runs at more manageable levels. His parents don’t worry about him because, Jody says, “he doesn’t have a big ego.”

“When my dad lead me down the river, he always knew I’d make good decisions,” Alec says.

“He trusts me.”

Hayden has been on the lower five at lower levels but still enjoys the less stressful “play boating” more. And being with his clan: “We can all be together as a family at the same time,” he says.

When Connor got his first kayak, he slept with it for weeks and took it to show-and-tell. “His classmates didn’t really know what it was,” Mike laughs. So they gave a demonstration, dad flipping son upside down in the kayak to show the class how to roll.

The family hopes to travel to Chile next winter to run rivers and Alec would like to go to a high Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 77

school that specializes in paddling, like World Class Academy in Montana or the New River Academy in West Virginia, schools that base studies around travel. Until then, the Voorhees will paddle all over Idaho. Together. As a family.

Playpens no longer included.

DEVON BARKER

Age: 39 Hometown: McCall, ID Favorite Descent: The Lower Salmon, ID

Devon Barker got a late start on competition but that hasn’t made her career any less prolific. The 39-year-old McCall local—who started competing at 30—has made the U.S. Freestyle or Surf team every year since 2002, capturing the National Freestyle Championship in 2003 and 2004 and a World Surf Kayak Championship in 2005—visiting countless countries along the way. So how does a landlocked whitewater kayaker win a world surf championship?

When Barker heard the voice message from Sun Valley’s Jim Grossman, a talented paddler in his own right, she was confused.

Costa Rica? World Championships? She’d never even been in a fiberglass kayak with fins. “Jimmy convinced me to go for it,” she says. “So I went down to Costa Rica a couple of weeks early and we trained everyday. My freestyle background really helped.”

Enough to lead her to her first title in her first attempt.

Barker has always been willing to take a chance. She started paddling while guiding rafts for her family’s Lewiston-based company, Barker River Trips. With fellow raft guide, Dayna Deuter, Barker paddled every river the company outfitted. “We’d scout rapids and if we thought we could swim them, then we’d go for it,” she says. After earning her education degree, Devon took a job at Nez Perce Elementary in Grangeville. When a member of the U.S. Freestyle 78 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

team saw her surfing on the Main Salmon near Riggins, she encouraged her to try out. “There were a few events left on the East Coast but I’d have to leave my job (as an elementary school teacher in New Meadows) to qualify as a pro so I’d be eligible for the team,” she says.

“I asked for a leave of absence. The school wouldn’t grant it because they thought I wouldn’t come back. I guess they were right.”

Barker took a chance on herself and it paid off. But she’s taken chances for her community, too, most recently to bring Idaho its first whitewater park. Barker, like most paddlers in the state, couldn’t understand how the “Whitewater State,” the capital of paddling, didn’t even have a manmade whitewater park when states like Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico had multiple parks.

So she fought for years to get the Cascade park built, running into roadblock after roadblock.

The turning point came one evening when the whitewater park committee was hosting a fundraiser. The group of dirtbag kayakers were stoked they’d raised $7,000 to that point.

Then Mark and Kristina Pickard, who owned a vacation home in the area, walked through the door. Their daughter had been killed in a car accident in Utah and they wanted to donate to a public park in her name. “These people came in and they were like, ‘We’d like to donate but we want to have our daughter’s name on it,’” Barker says. “We were like, ‘We’re not changing the name.’ Then they pulled out a $500,000 check and our jaws just dropped.” So Kelly’s Whitewater Park was born. Barker is also currently working on getting a man-made feature built in Riggins. And she’s still competing.

“My family really came together around my competitions,” says Barker, whose father recently lost his battle with cancer. “We planned our vacations around

them. I’m still boating well. And I’ve still got the love.”

RYAN CASEY

Age: 33 Hometown: Ketchum, ID First Descent: Rio Huallaga, Peru

At 6’7” Ryan Casey was seemingly created by some higher force to be a river runner. With a long reach and incredible power through the torso, Casey has run some of the toughest whitewater on earth.

After passing through Wood River Junior High, Ryan and his twin brother Pat (both now 33), accepted scholarships to further develop their Nordic skiing talents at Colorado Rocky Mountain School. But paddling quickly replaced skiing. “It was a spring time deal and we had the choice to do a class in mountain biking, rock climbing or kayaking. I was afraid of heights and didn’t have a mountain bike,” Ryan explains.

“We floated a section of the Colorado before I knew how to roll and I didn’t flip. As soon as I got my first ender, it was all over.

I was hooked.”

Ryan continued paddling during high school, traveling home in the summers to enjoy Idaho’s river cache. Before long one of the leading companies in the sport, Pyranha Kayaks, had picked him up on its pro team. Casey began barnstorming the continent, running rivers from British Columbia to Mexico, and competing in races at river events. But the competitive realm never appealed to Ryan.

He yearned to explore. “I love just relying on yourself, nobody else but you and your team in a river canyon,” he says. “It’s exciting knowing no one can get in there and save you.”

In 1999, Casey and fellow Wood River local, Adam Majors, traveled to Nepal to work with Gerry Moffat. “It’s really similar to Idaho over there,” says Casey, a freckled redhead who now ski patrols on Baldy in the winter.

“The rivers are really continuous and steep. I just had the travel bug after that.” So he moved on to places like Norway, Ecuador and Russia and continued to scour the U.S. for new runs, even finishing a first descent of Cherry Bomb Gorge on California’s Upper Cherry Creek, a relentless, granite-lined canyon stacked with waterfalls and enormous slides–one of the country’s most respected steep creeks.

But it’s his recent first descent of Peru’s Rio Huallaga that he’s most proud of. Casey and his team dropped in for a three-day epic on one of the Amazon’s last unrun gorges. Carefully paddling eddy to eddy (safe spots on the river’s edge), they picked their way through the 2,000-foot gorge.

“We knew what was in the first half of the run because there was a group that had been that far,” he says. “But then it closes in and you go under a chalkstone wall that caps the river 30 feet above you. It was superscenic. We brought food for 12 days but were drinking beer at the takeout by the end of the third. That kind of exploration is why I love paddling.”

I love just relying on yourself, nobody else but

you and your team in a river canyon. –Ryan Casey

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1 1. Ryan Casey. Photo Erik Boomer.

2. Ryan Casey boofing “Dinosaur Rock” on the North Fork Payette River. Photo Mike Leeds. 3. Devon Barker at Kelly’s Whitewater Park in Cascade. Photo Josh Davis.

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My family really came together around my competitions.

We planned our vacations around them. I’m still boating well.

And I’ve still got the love. –Devon Barker

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 79

LocaLbuzz | xxxxxxx

The Salmon River welcomes in the Little Salmon and winds it’s way past Riggins, Idaho.

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BY Mike McKenna PHOTOGRAPHY Matthew Hayes

RIGGINS a classic idaho river town

there’s something magical about river towns.

It may have something to do with the calming sound and positive ions given off by rushing water. Perhaps it has something to do with the way a river teaches patience and how to truly understand the natural ebb and flow of life. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that—for at least a few months each year—most river towns like to let their hair down, put floppy hats, swimsuits and sandals on and party like a bunch of college kids on spring break.

Riggins, Idaho, is just such a town.

Getting There: It’s a long drive from Sun Valley and takes a solid five or so hours either heading up over and past Stanley or down around through Boise.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 81

(Clockwise) Buck Lemmeran stands outside a shed in his backyard. Now retired, Buck has lived in Riggins for 14 years and loves to collect antiques and old signs. “I just love graphics and folk art. It’s important our future generations see the past. It needs to be preserved,” he said; Riggins local “HarV” hugs friend Jill Wexler during a dance at the Seven Devils Saloon and Bar; Richelle Barger and son change the CFS chart for the Salmon River outside the office of the The Current News. Right Cowboys line up to pay their entry fees outside the office at the 63rd Annual Riggins Rodeo; Reggie Crow waits at a bridge over the Salmon River for the annual Salmon River Jet Boat Races.

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Getting There

The “River of No Return” returns to the rest of the world in Riggins—a cozy hamlet nestled along Idaho’s western edge.

Those who’ve been happily floating by raft or kayak, dory or jet boat along the Salmon River and through the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness reconnect with society in the steep canyon, peppered with yellow pines, where Riggins is tucked.

The first signs of man are the massive jet boats and pickup trucks packed around the boat launch at Vinegar Creek—nearly 30 single-lane, unpaved miles and a few rusty old bridges from the town itself.

The Big Salmon River Road, as it’s known, follows the Salmon River, which eventually rounds a big bend and heads north, just as it welcomes the cascading Little Salmon River.

Nestled above its banks, somewhere around the time gold was first discovered in Idaho in the mid-1800s, a community sprung up.

While the Salmon carves its way past the eastern edge of Riggins (elevation 1,801’), on the other side of town the canyon works its way up towards the spectacular Seven Devils Mountains (peak elevation 9,393’). On the other side of the Seven Devils, the Snake River makes its way through the infamous Hells Canyon National Recreation Area towards its destiny with the River of No Return.

The two mighty rivers meet at the Oregon border and then soon join the Clearwa-

ter near Lewiston, Idaho, before turning towards Clarkston, Washington, and following the Columbia to the sea. Steelhead (sea-run trout), Chinook salmon, rainbow trout and smallmouth bass all swim through the Salmon and past Riggins at some point during the year, making it a year-round freshwater fishing Mecca.

In the warmer months, whitewater rafting trips for both the Salmon and Snake pack the town with sunburned families and twentysomethings rocking impressive sandal and life jacket tans—both of which help Riggins earn its title as “Idaho’s Whitewater Capital.”

“People call up from overseas and all over the country saying they want to float the ‘River of No Return.’ Maybe they’ve seen a documentary about the area or read about it or heard about it from a friend. But they just love the wilderness areas we have around here,” explained Amy Sinclair, the vice president of the Salmon River Chamber of Commerce and the owner of Exodus Wilderness Adventures.

“This is a pretty neat area with an incredible backyard,” Amy said, as we sat inside the rocking Seven Devils Saloon and Steakhouse, smack dab in the heart of Riggins. Fishermen, rugby players, retirees and at least one journalist keep the saloon’s healthy draft selection in steady use. Past the front door, Highway 95 runs from one end of town to the other (3.2

It’s a long drive from Sun Valley and takes a solid 5 hours no matter which way you go.

• North via ID-75 N, ID-21 S, ID-55 N and US-95 N (264 miles): Certainly the more picturesque drive, going north will take you along the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Route. However, these roads are more treacherous during the winter (and sometimes closed) and should only be driven during fair weather.

• South via US-20 W, I-84 W, ID-55 N and US-95 N (311 miles): This route heads first through Boise (182 miles from the City of Trees) then north on ID-55 through Horseshoe Bend and McCall. Slightly longer than the northbound route, this is a good option for more difficult road conditions.

Eat, Drink, Be Merry bert and kate’s cattleman’s restaurant:

601 S Main Street.

Everything is homemade and it’s tough to top anything for breakfast, their tomato soup or any sandwich with basil mayonnaise. the river rock café: 1149 S Main Street. Wideranging menu including “best burgers in town” as voted on by Riggins’ locals. seven devils steakhouse and saloon:

213 S Main Street. Popular for their stiff drinks, live music and succulent ribeye steak.

Sleep

best western salmon rapids lodge: 1010 S Hwy 95. Rooms start at around $90/night during the season; includes large indoor pool, outdoor spa and rooms with decks. www.salmonrapids.com big iron motel: 515 N Main Street. Rooms starting at around $50/night; includes a welcome beer or soda and cookie.

RV spots and hookups available. www.bigironmotel.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 83

(Clockwise) Riggins local and handyman “Har-V” blows his horn at the Seven Devils Saloon; Kate MacEachern runs food during the breakfast rush at Cattleman’s Restaurant on Main Street; Jesse Olsen bursts out of the chute during his bareback ride at the 63rd Annual Riggins Rodeo.

miles). The Salmon River ripples not too far behind the back door.

“And the really amazing thing is that an incredible river goes right through the middle of it all,” Amy said, adding with a gentle smile, “there’s just something about this place. Riggins just sort of bites you. I’m never leaving.”

The Town River towns used to be rowdy places, especially back in the old mountain West days when the men were men and the bighorn sheep were nervous. And Riggins is certainly no exception. Heck, the town was first known as “Gouge Eye.” The story goes that a couple of burly locals got into a brawl over the fair hand of a Miss Daisy Trumbull. After tumbling all over town beating the snot out of each other, the fight came to an end because of a nasty eye gouge—which is now illegal in most (respectable) mixed martial arts contests.

Nonetheless, Daisy got the winner, bighorns were wary of the loser, and the place became known as “Gouge Eye.” Eventually, somewhere around the time Teddy Roosevelt was in office at the turn of the 20th century, a postmaster named John Riggins gave his name to the town.

For the next 80-odd years, Riggins subsisted primarily on gold and gem mining (there are still active mines around the town), farming and ranching, and an active lumberyard. But many of the mines went dry and, in 1982, the mill burned down. Lots of folks disappeared like fading 84 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

smoke after that. But those hardy enough to stay—and those who loved the place too much to leave—decided to turn to their backyard to survive.

As Amy, who’s called Riggins home for more than a decade, put it, “The people around here just realized, ‘Hey, we’ve got some great places to play. Maybe other people would like to come enjoy it all with us.’”

Riggins has been a booming town, with a visitor-based economy and a solid population of retirees from colder climes, ever since.

“This isn’t just an incredible place to play, there’s a great sense of community here, too,” Amy explained. “My fellow outfitters are also my neighbors, and we all want each other to do well.”

Riggins, population roughly 440 (which doubles during the summer months), is a picturesque, year-round tourist destination.

But it doesn’t just get your average tourist.

Riggins hosts the types of vacationers who like adventure. Folks of any age who want to run world-class rapids or run around the nation’s second largest wilderness area. People who want to angle for big fish or chase after game birds like chukars.

Or those who like to hunt for monstrous racks—either still attached to deer and elk during the autumn or already fallen off in the spring.

Jet boating up to a remote river ranch like Mackay Bar for an overnight excursion is also becoming more and more popular, especially for those in the corporate set who want to literally get away from it all for a while. continued on page 110

Recreate

exodus wilderness adventures:

606 N Highway 95. Custom half-day to 6-day whitewater raft trips on the Salmon River, jet boat tours and sport fishing adventures. www.riverescape.com mountain river outfitters: 411 N Main Street.

Guided fishing, hunting and “cast and blast” trips for Salmon and Hells Canyon section of Snake River. www.mtnriveroutfitters.com rapid river outfitters: Mile marker 194 on US-95. Whitewater rafting and steelhead fishing on Salmon River, guide school and “cast and blast” trips. www.rapidriveroutfittersllc.com

Events

hot summer nights:

July 22-23. Family-friendly event includes Oldies Rock ‘n Roll talent show and live music. www.rigginsidaho.com

annual steelhead fishing derby:

October 1st through March. Season-long event includes prizes like rods, unique artwork and river trips.

Seven Devils Saloon and Bar is usually a hot spot for locals and tourists alike.

topics of conservation // aquatic birds

Whooping Cranes Grus americana Length: 52” Wingspan: 87” Weight: 13.8 – 15 lbs.

Federally endangered.

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A MEANS TO MIGRATE

BY Hailey Tucker

THE AQUATIC BIRDS OF IDAHO Of Idaho’s more than 83,000 square miles, only 823 are covered by water. All the rivers, lakes and ponds in the state combined add up to just one percent of its total area. Only 12 other states in the country posses less water than Idaho.

For animal life within the state, this scarcity makes any available water all the more important for survival. Steep mountain ranges hide portions of it in high alpine lakes and streams. Long distances of dry desert can be too vast for many animals to travel. Birds, however, possess the unique ability to fly, allowing them to access even the most remote bodies of water and making it possible for them to travel great distances to lakes and rivers during their seasonal migrations.

thomas mangelson

aquatic bird migration: lakes and rivers

Aquatic birds include both waterfowl (like geese, ducks and swans) and waterbirds (the catch-all for water-based birds that are neither waterfowl nor shorebirds) and almost all make some kind of migration. Whether their annual migrations are a relatively small shift from areas in northern Idaho to southern Idaho and back, like that of Canada geese (Branta canadensis), or if Idaho is only one of many rest stops during a much longer journey, the state’s water provides them with a means to migrate.

“If you look at southern Idaho in general, you’re looking at a pretty arid land-

scape, so the bodies of water are unique in that they’re available. They’re providing an oasis in the desert if you will,” said Jeff Knetter, Idaho Fish and Game’s upland game and waterfowl staff biologist.

One of the reasons water is so essential to their migrations is that aquatic birds often roost on the surfaces of lakes or ponds overnight. Colleen Moulton, Idaho Fish and Game’s avian science program leader, said there are even some birds, like Grebes (Podicipediformes), that cannot walk on land at all, making access to water a daily requirement.

Most aquatic birds also feed on fish, insects and plants that can only be found either in or surrounding lakes and rivers.

Waterbirds such as the Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias), which can be seen primarily in the summer, and the American White Pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos), which have two breeding colonies in Idaho, one located at Lake Walcott and the other at Blackfoot Reservoir, feed primarily on fish during their time in the Gem State.

Waterfowl such as the Common Goldeneye (Bucephala clangula), which winter in Idaho, and Barrow’s Goldeneye (Bucephala islandica), which can be seen Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 87

topics of conservation // aquatic birds

Northern Pintail Anas acuta Length: 21”-25” Wingspan: 34” Weight: 1.8-2.2 lbs Year-round populations in Idaho.

Canada Geese Branta canadensis Length: 25”-45” Wingspan: 43”-60” Weight: 3.5-9.8 lbs Mates for life in a bonded pair.

88 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula Length: 28.5” Wingspan: 26” Weight: 1.9-2.3 lbs Nest in tree cavities around shallow marshy lakes and beaver ponds.

American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrohynchos Length: 62” Wingspan: 108” Weight: 16.4 lbs Groups forage cooperatively, diving for fish.

Trumpeter Swan Cygnus buccinator Length: 60” Wingspan: 80” Weight: 20-29 lbs Nearly extinct in 1994.

northern pintail: bob steele / canada geese: marty ellis / common goldeneye: bob steele / american white pelican: steve byland / trumpeter swan: bob steele

There are typically 100 adult Trumpeter Swans in southeast and southcentral Idaho during breeding season, but the population swells to 3,000 during the winter months after birds from Canada arrive. at the top of the panhandle in the summer and in southcentral Idaho in the winter, are diving ducks that eat submerged plants and small aquatic animals. Trumpeter Swans (Cygnus buccinator), which winter in southcentral Idaho and summer on the far southeastern side of the state, do not dive for submerged plants but instead plunge their long necks into the water to find food.

Without Idaho’s bodies of water to sleep on and provide food to keep them strong, many birds would not physically be able to travel the long distances needed for migration, Knetter said.

Many birds follow what are called “flyways” to their destinations. Flyways generally run along major rivers on a north-to-south route.

Brian Sturges, who has headed the National Audubon Society Christmas bird count in Hagerman since 1974, said that although Idaho does not contain any major flyways, many birds follow the Snake, Salmon and Columbia River drainages through the state.

Sturges said birds following the Columbia River

occasionally take a wrong turn at the mouth of the river and end up in Hagerman or American Falls instead of Mexico.

“There’s some food there so they sometimes stay over the winter,” Sturges said. “We’ve had ocean-going birds, birds from Alaska and birds from Asia down there, so Hagerman is a really fun place because you never quite know what might pop up there.”

And although the rivers in Idaho do not see as many migratory birds as flyways like the Mississippi, Moulton said the Gem State is unique because so many birds can be seen in any single wetland area.

“I think the thing that stands out the most (about waterways in Idaho) is that we have so little water compared to the eastern part of the country. This makes the water we do have really important because birds have to go many miles before they find water, and so waterbirds tend to gather in greater abundance here in Idaho because they have fewer places to choose from,” Moulton said.

bird watching hot spots

Blackfoot Reservoir location:

15 miles north of Soda Springs, U.S. Dept. of the Interior Bureau of Land Management land

birds:

• Largest American White Pelican breeding colony in Idaho • Great Blue Heron sightings • Double-crested Cormorant nesting site • California gull nesting site

Silver Creek Preserve location:

33 miles SE of Ketchum, land owned by The Nature Conservancy

birds:

• Large Duck population • Trumpeter Swan sightings • Sandhill Crane sightings • Songbirds common

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 89

topics of conservation // aquatic birds

Great Blue Heron Ardea herodia Length: 46�

Wingspan: 72�

Weight: 5.3 lbs Nests in colonies (with a few to several hundred pairs) in trees.

90 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Mountain Resort Services Waterbirds tend to gather in greater abundance here in Idaho because they have fewer places to choose from.

bird watching hot spots Camas Prairie Centennial Marsh Wildlife Management Area location:

Near Fairfield, Idaho Fish and Game land

gregory johnston

birds:

• Canada geese common • Grebes common • Sandhill crane sightings • Killdeer • Willet • Wilson’s Snipe • Least Sandpiper • Mallards • Northern Pintail • Northern Shoveler • American Widgeon • Blue-winged Teal

Mud Lake Wildlife Management Area

location: Three miles north of Mud Lake in Jefferson County, Idaho Fish and Game land birds:

• 50,000+ snow geese • Nesting area for many ducks • Mallards • Northern Pintail • Widgeon • Redhead Ducks • Ring-necked Ducks • Nesting area for Canada Geese • Trumpeter Swans stop through in spring • Nesting grounds for the Great Blue Heron

Draper Croy Creek Boardwalk location:

At the end of Lions Park, off Croy Creek Road, west of Hailey. It is on the northern edge of the Draper Wood River Preserve.

birds:

• Yellow Warblers • Black-capped Chickadees • Red-winged Blackbirds • Cassin’s Finch • Pileated Woodpecker • Wood Ducks • Cinnamon Teals

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bird watching: where to see aquatic birds

Generally speaking, most waterfowl spend the winter in Idaho, whereas waterbirds tend to pass through the state in the fall and spring or stay through the summer. This makes aquatic birdwatching possible at almost any point of the year. Fall and spring, however, see the most diversity because of the mass movements through the state.

To see aquatic birds, Knetter and Moulton recommend visiting either Market Lake (off Interstate 15 in eastern Idaho) or Mud Lake (just outside Idaho Falls on Highway 33). The lakes have a high diversity of species that stop through, Knetter explained.

In the springtime, Northern Pintails (Anas acuta), a type of dabbling duck, are common. In the summer, many Grebes nest around the lakes, and in the fall it is estimated that 50 American White Pelicans stop at the shores of Market Lake.

Moulton suggested visiting Gray’s Lake (in southeast Idaho, off Highway 34) in April or May for those interested in seeing Sandhill cranes (Grus canadensis). The slender birds can have wingspans upward of six feet and travel in large flocks. Gray’s Lake has some of the highest numbers of nesting cranes in the world.

As a general rule of thumb for birdwatching, Wood River High School biology teacher Larry Barnes suggested looking where there’s water.

“Diversity increases where there’s water,” Barnes says.

“In Hailey, the best is the confluence of the Big Wood River and Croy Creek. That wetland is kind of a Silver Creek north because it’s really quite diverse.”

Barnes also recommended spending a day at the Silver Creek Preserve, where 150 different bird species have been reported. Knetter also recommends the Camas Prairie Centennial Marsh Wildlife Management Area near Fairfield.

And even in the late summer and into the fall, once much of the water in Idaho has begun to dry up, Moulton said mudflats are a good place to find birds. The absence of water exposes insects and plants that only diving birds could access before, which turns mudflats into massive feeding grounds for migratory birds.

Whether it’s the soft and nutrient-rich soil that remains where water once was or the plentiful feeding environment and shelter that lakes can provide, the small pockets of water throughout the state make it possible for aquatic birds to exist in the high desert climate of Idaho.

Web Extras: Don’t miss clips from the National Geographic Channel’s “Great Migrations” series shot by Ketchum local Bob Poole at www.sunvalleymag.com.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 91

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profile // jon marvel

BY Clarence Stilwill PHOTOGRAPHY Matthew Hayes

JON MARVEL

The man at the center of the largest land debate in the west Jon Marvel is a complex man, yet one with a simply stated goal: “to end grazing on public lands.� And because of this goal, he is considered, in certain circles, to be the most hated man in the West.The founder, director, and public face of Western Watersheds Project (WWP), Jon has a bit of a Jekyll and Hyde reputation. One on one, he is quiet and soft-spoken, deferential and polite, with an engaging sense of humor. He likes to tell and hear good stories, especially Western-based ones. One would think those attributes would make for an empathetic, collaborative individual who would consistently seek common ground with those who oppose his views. Not exactly.

Jon Marvel sits for a portrait in his office in Hailey.

94 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

moRe tHAN juSt fiRepLAceS As Eric Davis, from Bruneau, Idaho, who’s one of those folks Marvel calls “welfare ranchers,” said about Marvel in an interview for University of Chicago Magazine, “Bless his heart, I guess he thinks he’s doing right, but I think he’s a vindictive SOB.” one man

Jon’s appearance belies his reputation, often so polarizing that he has sworn enemies who have never even met him. And some of his friends accuse him of getting in his own way.

Some of the articles and words written about him (notably in Range Magazine) variously describe him as spiteful, egotistical, vituperative and profane, and his tactics as “scorched earth and uncompromising.”

In individual conversation little of that attitude is visible. It’s hard to square a “take no prisoners” reputation with this rather bookish, mild-talking man who enjoys a good laugh at his own expense. Confronted with instances of aggressive behavior against those who oppose him (and even some who don’t), Jon tends to downplay that aspect of his personality and gives assurance that he has “mellowed.”

After 26 years of fighting bureaucracies, and what he considers “land abusers,” Jon no longer has the same fire in the belly that put his feet on this path. And a remarkable path it has been, demonstrating that one person who believes they are right, and with a will to do so, can change an entire system despite seemingly insurmountable odds.

In 1993, the degraded condition of riparian habitat along Lake Creek, on the East Fork of the Salmon River, caused by livestock grazing, motivated Jon and other concerned citizens to organize to improve the environmental condition of our public lands. This gave rise to the Idaho Watersheds Project, now known as the Western Watersheds Project, which has spurred conservation efforts that have contributed to restoration and protection of public lands and wildlife habitat across the West. land

“rights”

Although originally hailing from Wilmington, Delaware, Jon comes across as more Western than many self-described natives (his father and grandfather were both prominent lawyers but Jon’s best memories center around being raised on a 40-acre farm). He passionately believes one doesn’t need a Western pedigree or ranch heritage background to love Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 95

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profile // jon marvel

or defend what is essentially every American’s birthright—equal access to publicly held land. And those claiming “rights” have, for so long, forgotten this. “Rights” is a word that can really fry Jon’s bacon. He immediately corrects anyone who uses the word rights in connection with public land use. All users (grazers, guides, loggers, etc.) have “permits,” not indelible “rights” and, as such, they are permitted to use public land that is held in trust and by law for all Americans.

If you take the word “rights” out of the debate, it begins to erode the popular picture of generations of ranch families being forced off the land. Are we taking the “rights” away from Mary Hewlett (of Hewlett Packard fame) to use thousands of acres of public land that she’s probably never laid eyes on? Are we taking “rights” from the J.R. Simplot Corporation to thousands of acres of cheap grazing? Have we vested too much of our own heritage into too few hands?

Is it too much to ask those with “permits” and those who administer them to act in good faith or have permission withdrawn?

Certainly the picture of generations of

family ranchers being forced to change their historical method of doing business, and the struggle and hardship that can ensue from that change, is a reality, not a myth. Their pain in doing so is too individualized and personal to either measure or quantify. Yet in today’s world, there is little safety in doing things the way they have always been done.

In recent years, every business, indeed every individual job, is held up to scrutiny and, to borrow a pioneering term, its “root hog or die!” to survive. Unfortunate as it may be, the great steamroller of the world economy seems to have flattened sentiment, history, tradition, and constancy at the same time, and what it will give rise to is yet to be seen. In the meantime, adaptation and change means survival. hombres de la tierra

This article was supposed to begin last fall, on the high ranges of Idaho, with a bottle of whiskey and a campfire. A sit-down with hombres de la tierra (men of the earth). Those with boots, in this case hooves, on the ground.

Range riders—they of little pay, long hours and lonesome vistas. What better way to get at

the heart of the debate on public grazing than to sit butt to boot-heels around a campfire and pass a jug of “tongue oil” around. Seeking truth and wisdom from men whose livelihoods and way of life are on the line.

It didn’t happen. The seasons swung past like a rusty gate, winter came on and the stock trucks rolled for the home ranch or scattered feedlots. The land was left to heal itself, to regenerate until the following summer when the ritual, practiced by generations of Western ranchers, reverses itself and livestock is once again scattered over 250 million acres of public lands. But, does it heal? Does it regenerate? Therein lies the heart of this argument.

As a boy, some of my first unwitting experiences with land use were from working on a variety of ranches, and as a rider for a Cattlemens’ Association in the mountains of central Idaho. For a time I lived a boy’s dream: life in the saddle, working alone, free and unfettered by rules and convention, figuring there was plenty for all.

Conflictingly, around that same time I also worked as a wild-lands firefighter and

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“Demonstrating that one person who believes they are right, and with a will to do so, can change an entire system despite seemingly insurmountable odds.”

ABOVE Marvel, center, discusses the current cattle grazing situation with BLM employees. RIGHT Marvel recording evidence of illegal cattle grazing near the Big Lost Mountain Range.

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208.726.2440 • www.dembergh.com Photo: Kevin Syms

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 97

profile // jon marvel

during our downtimes performed range this question has revealed that, as usual, commaintenance, stock-tank development and plicated questions seldom have simple answers. range studies on managed grazing units for the U.S. Forest Service. At the time, I had no on the range opinion of, or thought nothing wrong with, Somewhere in the middle of all of this stands the idea of individuals using public land. the range manager. The other “man of the After all, that was the government’s original earth” in this conflict of opinions and phiintention and enticement for opening the losophies. Most take their jobs seriously and West to settlement. This was 25 years into with dedication. I have talked with men with the Taylor Grazing Act, and rangeland was 30 years’ experience in the field who got in it supposedly being managed effectively by and stay in it for love of the outdoors. A love government entities. that abides as they both manage and use the Yet, as a rider pushing cows around, I land that’s in their care (curiously, this is not distinctly remember being troubled by some all that different from Jon Marvel’s love of the of the job’s aspects. At that age, and at that same land). Their biggest challenge (personal time, “ecology” was not in my vocabulary philosophy aside) is to abide by the currently but “beauty” was, and I remember being mandated laws—that of managing public disturbed, especially in the autumn, by the land for all users. adverse impact that a season’s grazing could The range manager’s job description is have on the waterholes, creek bottoms and pretty much a recipe for “damned if you the once lush meadows and lovely stands of do, damned if you don’t” decision-making. aspen trees.

Living under the sword of litigation from So, cowboy or conservationist? Fast forward both sides, their every move is scrutinized, 50 years and I still sit with a leg over each dissected and weighed for advantage for or horse in this race.

Not because I do not have against any party involved. Consequently, SVR 104-07-11.Sun Valley Mag(Smmr’11)fnl:Layout 1 4/7/11 4:43 PM Page 1 a personal opinion, but that my research into managers with years of training and experi-

AS BEAUTIFUL INSIDE, AS IT IS OUTSIDE.

ence in the field can no longer rely on their accumulated knowledge, instincts, or even common sense when it comes to doing their job. Much of their time is spent lawyer-proofing or litigating their decisions. So much so that like nurses who spend more time filling out paperwork than tending to their patients, they have less time for hands-on management of the land they are responsible for.

It is Jon Marvel’s opinion that “these jobs are so politicized that range managers cannot effectively do their work for fear of either reprisal or political intervention from local districts, clear back to Washington, D.C.. So much so that they often deny their own science to avoid this interference.”

Range managers, whether from the U. S. Forest Service or Bureau of Land Management, must walk the tightrope of pleasing everyone, offending none, and meet the expectations of their job descriptions. Usually they avoid being quoted in articles like this.

Meanwhile, WWP believes that, as much as litigation, the economic forces set against stock raising the way it is practiced in the West will eventually accomplish much of their

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98 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

mission. Wages, fuel costs, feed expenses and lawyers’ fees will force these changes. The small ranching business, teetering at best, in its present form will not survive these mounting challenges. Are they right, or more importantly, are they in the right? It’s complicated.

In these times, who would willingly tell a person “we are going to help drive you out of business, are going to alter your lifestyle, that your traditions are no longer valid or valuable in today’s world, that you must, in our opinion, and for the greater good, give up perhaps the only thing you know how to do?”

Or is this a tossed rock that creates a ripple in our pond but a wave elsewhere that can wash back over us? end of an era

Arguments have been made that loss of widespread grazing creates environmental disasters elsewhere: dead fisheries from pesticides washing into the Gulf of Mexico (because of a greater dependency on raised fodder); annihilation of the Amazon rain forests; the challenge of creating pastures to feed the insatiable demand for meat. If the fast food

chains can’t get it from the West, it will come from somewhere else in the world.

The net result being additional climate chaos for millions, not just the population in these Western states. So if we live in a global society, is moving these problems or adding to environmental woes elsewhere in our country or the world truly helping us at home? Should WWP pursue a scorched earth policy when it comes to achieving its goals? Or are they burning the ground they themselves hope to stand on one day?

Everyone with a dog in this fight has a pretty strong opinion as to their rightness and the other side’s wrongness. Where to stand?

In sympathy, my heart resides with the range riders and a young boy’s memories of the view down the long hills through smoky autumn light, and with the true ranching families who want to raise their kids on hard work and homemade bread. Those folks, whose lives have been idealized and mythologized, have also in recent years been discounted as backward thinking because they want to be left alone to inhabit the way of life their families have always held. Their exis-

tence is not a total myth, and yes, there is a romance to their lives, but also a hard reality.

This sympathy comes from my own history, and its memory of wonderful experiences of ranch life as well as the DNA embedded with growing up in the West and on Western lore.

That’s where my heart lies.

My head, however, and my gut, tells me something different. Without offering judgment, it tells me that—if it hasn’t already— public lands grazing as now practiced is close to reaching its high tide, its own Gettysburg, and much like the South after the fierce fight that was the Civil War, is faced with a long drawn-out set of covered retreats in which it will win some battles, but eventually lose the war. Sheer numbers will have a hand in dictating this change. There is too much land in the hands of too few people, with too many others claiming interest, for the status quo to endure. Jon Marvel and groups like WWP have set in motion events that will change the West forever.

Who’s right? Who’s wrong? Is there a definitive answer? In the end, perhaps only the land will tell us.

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Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 99

food // seafood

Bacon Wrapped Scallops

Scallop Ceviche* CIRO Restaurant & Wine Bar Serves 4

Scallop Ceviche

gifts from the sea and river Nothing exemplifies the splendors of summer more than sharing a mouthwatering meal with family and friends outdoors, under the breathtaking Idaho sky. To help make the most out of such occasions, we offer up a healthy portion of seafood-inspired dishes—gifts from the sea and the river—including selections from Idaho’s Preferred and a few sneak peeks at some recipes from the recently released cookbook, Entertaining Sun Valley Style: Behind the Scenes from the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction. *As seen in Entertaining Sun Valley Style, Mandala Media, ©2011 100 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

• • • • • • • •

•

1 pound fresh sushi-grade scallops 1 orange 1 lemon 3 limes ¼ cup green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons cilantro, chopped 1 ounce caviar salted crackers, deep-fried wontons, sliced cucumbers or tortilla chips salt and pepper to taste

1. Finely dice scallops. Set aside. Zest orange, lemon and one lime with microplane into small mixing bowl (being careful not to zest down into the rind, as this will impart a bitter flavor).

2. Add juice squeezed from all three limes.

Mix in green onions and cilantro.

3. Add scallops and caviar to mixing bowl, and coat with juice mixture.

4. Add salt and pepper to taste, and set aside for 10 minutes before serving.

5. Serve a small spoonful over salted crackers, deep-fried wontons, sliced cucumbers or tortilla chips.

In Honor of the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction’s 30th Anniversary...

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A compilation by The Junior Patrons Circle of the Sun Valley Center for the Arts

A Stunning 240-Page Coffee Table Cookbook featuring recipes, outdoor dining and vintner dinner menus from the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction, entertaining tips and wine pairings for each dish.

ceviche, scallops: paulette phlipot, entertaining sun valley style / fajitas: bochkarev photography

Trout Fajitas

Bacon Wrapped Scallops with Citrus Gremolata* Feast Catering Serves 4 to 6 • • • • • • • • • •

10 to 12 medium day boat scallops ½ pound thick-style bacon ½ bunch parsley, chopped 1 bunch spinach leaves or other leafy greens 3 tablespoons vegetable oil toothpicks 2 lemons, zested 2 limes, zested 2 teaspoons olive oil salt to taste

1. Cook bacon strips until halfway done.

2. Combine zest, parsley, olive oil and salt to taste

in a small mixing bowl to make citrus gremolata.

Remove adductor muscle from scallop (if still present). Tightly wrap one bacon strip around each scallop (or half a bacon strip, depending on the size of the scallop). Hold in place with small toothpick. Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in large sauté pan until almost smoking. Cook each side of scallop for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown and somewhat firm.

3. Serve each scallop on a bed of greens with a dollop of gremolata.

Trout Fajitas Idaho’s Preferred

Serves 4 (2 fajitas per person) • • • • • • • • • • •

4 Idaho rainbow trout filets ½ cup fresh lime juice 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 garlic cloves, minced ¾ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ cup olive oil, divided 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 red bell pepper, cut into thin strips 1 green bell pepper, cut into thin strips 8 (6-inch) flour tortillas salsa, sour cream, guacamole (optional)

1. Combine lime juice, cilantro, garlic, cumin and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Pour over trout. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, at least 30 minutes.

2. Combine onion and peppers. Sauté in 2 teaspoons oil just until tender, about 5 minutes; reserve. Remove trout from marinade; cook on lightly oiled grill or sauté until just done, about 2 minutes per side.

3. On hot griddle, heat tortillas on both sides.

Remove skin from trout. Place half trout or one filet in each tortilla. Add sautéed vegetables. Serve with salsa, sour cream and guacamole if desired.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 101

Featuring mouth-watering recipes from celebrated chefs including Five-Star Chef John Tesar, “Iron Chef” winner Beau MacMillan, Top Chef Masters Sue Zemanick, Cristina Ceccatelli Cook of Cristina’s Restaurant, Chris Kastner of CK’s, Scott Mason, Taite Pearson, and many more.

Available July 8, 2011 Order Your Copy Before it Sells Out!! www.sunvalleycenter.org 100% of the proceeds benefit the Sun Valley Center for the Arts.

FOOD // seafood

Pan Seared Halibut

Pan Seared Halibut with Potato Confetti* Feast Catering Serves 4 to 6 • • • • • • • • •

4-6 halibut filets (8 ounces each) 1 garlic bulb, roasted 4 leeks, green stalks removed 2 red potatoes 1 cup chicken stock 1 cup heavy cream bunch parsley, chopped flour olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Trim an 1/8-inch slice from the top of garlic bulb to just barely expose cloves inside. Place bulb on baking sheet, and drizzle liberally with olive oil.

Roast for 45 to 60 minutes or until garlic is soft and caramelized. Remove from oven. Let cool to room temperature. Cut leeks in half lengthwise (white parts only). Rinse under cold running water, careful not to let the layers separate or fall apart. Cut the halved leeks lengthwise again in small, thin strips.

Reserve in bowl of cold water until ready to cook, then drain and dry.

2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Peel and brunoise potatoes (first cut into julienne slices, turn 102 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

a quarter turn, and dice again, producing small cubes of consistent shape and size).

Soak in water to prevent browning until ready to cook. Drain potatoes and towel pat dry. Heat 3 to 4 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan. Lightly coat potatoes in flour. Fry until brown. Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons oil in an ovenproof sauté pan. Place fish in pan, presentation side down, and sear until golden brown crust forms. Flip fish, then place pan in oven. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until fish is firm and starting to flake. While fish is in oven, heat 4 to 6 tablespoons oil in large sauté pan. Add leeks and cook until shiny and glassy, about 3 to 4 minutes on high heat. Deglaze the pan with chicken stock and simmer for 1 minute. Add heavy cream and 6 to 8 roasted garlic cloves, roughly smashed into a paste. Cook until leeks become soft and sauce thickens. Finish with chopped parsley and salt to taste. Thin leeks out with additional stock as desired.

3. Place heaping pile of leeks in center of plate. Perch halibut on top. Garnish heavily with potato confetti, chopped parsley, or sautéed vegetable of choice (grilled asparagus, sautéed summer squash, zucchini or other).

Mesquite Grilled Idaho Trout

Mesquite Grilled Idaho Trout with Corn Salad* Feast Catering Serves 4

halibut, trout: paulette phlipot, entertaining sun valley style

• • • • • • • • • • • •

4 Idaho trout filets (6-8 ounces each), skin on mesquite grilling planks 4 ounces butter, softened ½ bunch parsley, chopped ½ bunch cilantro, chopped 1 lemon, sliced into wedges (optional) 4 ears sweet summer corn 2 teaspoons curry powder 1 teaspoon cumin, ground 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped salt and pepper to taste

1. Soak mesquite planks in water for at least 1 hour prior to grilling. Finely chop parsley and cilantro. Mix well with softened butter.

Drop ball of herbed butter onto center of 6 x 9-inch piece of plastic wrap. Fold plastic over butter and form into a small cylindrical tube by twisting ends tight. Refrigerate before use.

2. Husk corn and remove silk. Cut off kernels with a sharp knife or mandoline. Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Let sit at room temperature for at least one hour before serving, allowing flavors to meld.

3. Heat grill to 400°F. Lay trout on mesquite plank, skin side down. Place on grill and close lid. Cook over medium heat for 7 to 9 minutes without disturbing or f lipping fish. Remove plank when done and let cool slightly.

4. Remove fish filet and place on plate.

Remove butter cylinder from plastic and slice into coin-sized pats. Place one pat on each filet. Garnish with lemon, salt and pepper to taste. Spoon curried corn salad onto plate and serve with green salad.

Every July for the last 30 years, the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction has attracted wineries, patrons and chefs from around the country to participate in three days of events celebrating gourmet food, fine wines and the unique Sun Valley mountain lifestyle. Step behind the scenes with Entertaining Sun Valley Style: Behind the Scenes from the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction (Mandala Media) and gain the knowledge and expertise of the worldrenowned chefs, master sommeliers and acclaimed winemakers that rank the Sun Valley Center Wine Auction as one of the “Top Ten Charity Wine Auctions in the Country” by Wine Spectator.

The coffee table cookbook includes over 240 pages of stunning photography of mouthwatering dishes and spectacular soirees, and features some of the finest wineries in the world, including Chappellet Vineyard, Cardinale and the Trefethen Family Vineyards, to name a few.

All proceeds from the book go to support the Sun Valley Center for the Arts.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 103

kids pages // riley berman

BY Dan Gorham PHOTOGRAPHY Riley Berman

the epic adventure of

Riley berman From a snow-covered ridgeline on Galena Summit, 18-year-old Riley Berman began his senior project in April 2009, taking the first steps in a 425-mile odyssey that ended on the banks of the Snake River in Oregon.

Riley (pictured above) and Scooter with mannequin sidekick “Bigwater Betty.”

“I feel like I’ve gained a lot as a person because of the trip.

I proved something to myself.”

104 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Each year, seniors at The Community School in Ketchum select an independent project to pursue, generally following a personal passion. For Berman, that passion was his love of water—whether it’s in the frozen form and he is on skis or the liquid variety when he’s paddling or fishing. But unlike most senior projects, Riley’s quest required a fair share of logistical and technical support, and a boat load of gumption.

After snowmobiling to the top of Galena Pass, Berman skied toward the Stanley Basin below and the headwaters of the Salmon, the infamous “River of No Return.” On his second day he made it as far as the Blaine County line, where he had an inflatable kayak stashed under the Salmon River Bridge. He then traded in his skis for the kayak, and paddled through Lower Stanley on to Elk Creek, where the third leg of the voyage was to begin.

Scooter Carling, a veteran river guide and long-time friend of the Berman family, was standing by to help crew a 15-foot raft which he and Riley would attempt to navigate the

entire length of the Salmon River during the height of spring runoff.

“The boat was preposterously heavy at the start. You could barely steer it,” Riley said. “We had everything we would need for 17 days.”

So, like a latter-day Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, Berman and Carling headed down the Salmon River with the goal of reaching the confluence of the Snake River at the Grand Ronde in Oregon. Yet, unlike Huck and Tom’s leisurely float down the Mississippi River, the runoff forecast for the Salmon that spring was predicted to spike at a whopping 30,000 cubic feet per second (cfs) during their voyage.

“My experience level as a boater wasn’t huge and one of the goals was to become more accomplished with the raft,” said Berman. “It was a great learning experience to watch and learn from Scooter. He is a Class V rower and just makes it look so easy.”

After the Middle Fork joins the Main Salmon, river levels leap accordingly. And it’s at this point, where the road stops and the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness begins, that a difficult decision needed to be made.

“We stopped at Corn Creek. That was our check point and we had to commit. I remember standing at the boat ramp. We had established that 20,000 cfs was our cutoff. It was running at 22,000 cfs and dropping, so we figured by the time we got to Slide Rapid it would be flowing about 17,500,” said Berman. “I was the trip leader. The ball was in my court. I guess we figured, yeah, it’s going to be big, but it’s manageable.”

The pair was traveling 35 to 40 miles per day. Carling would row the Class V rapids, while mentoring Berman through the lower rated rapids and with scouting reports and observations. Meanwhile, Riley’s dad, Andy Berman, was available by satellite phone providing support, weather forecasts and river flow projections.

“My dad was totally on board. We called him a bunch in the ‘war room,’” said Berman. Riley’s mom, Kate, was more apprehensive about the trip, but he convinced her of its merits after adding a GPS spot tracking device to their list of essential equipment.

“I feel like I did something very unique. It has been a huge building block for me. I was the trip leader. I planned the menu. I was in charge of safety. It’s a real sense of accomplishment,” said Berman. “I now plan all Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 105

kids pages // riley berman

JOIN US! 2011 & 2012

MAD EXPEDITIONS

IN AFRICA MAD KILI FUNDRAISER CLIMB | TANZANIA, AFRICA MAD supports an orphanage with 22 children. Our MAD Kili Climb offers the chance to meet the children we help and hike to the top of Africa’s highest mountain to raise funds for their education.

SCHEDULE: • Spend 7 days with the children working on a project.

• Spend 7 days climbing Kilimanjaro for our MAD Kili Fundraiser Climb.

• Spend 1 day on safari at Lake Manyara National Park.

GROUPS: Minimum of 10 people needed. Individuals will be placed with groups. Trip organizers who get 10 people get 1/2 off their program fee.

For dates and how to apply, visit

www.makeadifferencenow.org or call 208.309.2100

Riley begins his trek on skis near the headwaters, switches to an inflatable kayak before hopping on a raft for the big water.

Join us for the 2nd annual

“Harvest of Hope” Celebration Wednesday, August 17th

•

6:00 to 9:00 p.m.

Fighting hunger, feeding hope

Tour the garden, enjoy live music, see food demonstrations and taste delicious bites from local chefs and caterers. Fun family activities!

This event is FREE and open to the public.

“The Hope Garden” is located at the corner of 1st Street & Walnut Avenue in downtown Hailey. www.thehungercoalition.org

•

The Hunger Coalition is a 501(c)3 non-profit, charitable organization

the whitewater trips for my college and I am now working with White Otter Adventures in Stanley during the summers where I began offering fly fishing float trips.”

Berman wrote in his journal each night during the 21-day trip. He also shared his story and photos with staff, faculty and community members as part of the conclusion of his senior project.

“I feel like I’ve gained a lot as a person because of the trip. I proved something to myself,” he said.

106 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

www.ashleighbranstetter.com • 504-598-6272 Sun Valley Center ARTS & CRAFTS FESTIVAL August 12-14 2011

“I now plan all the whitewater trips for my college and I am now working with White Otter Adventures in Stanley during the summers where I began offering fly fishing float trips.”

When Berman arrived at the boat ramp at Grand Ronde, he had traveled more than 400 miles and descended from the 8,990-foothigh Galena Summit to the 840-foot elevation of the Snake River. Andy Berman was waiting for his son at the take-out.

“That was a funny site to see,” said Berman. “My dad is waving and yelling and I’m like, wow, the trip is over. It was definitely a bittersweet feeling.”

Web Extras: For more photos of Riley Berman’s trip check out www.sunvalleymag.com

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 107

Precision Aviation, Inc. excellence in aviation since 2002

chartered flights • aircraft management Aircraft maintenance • u.s. and canadian service 208.308.1852 • www.paviation.com

carved by

water

continued from page 61

Big Mountain Skier, Lexi duPont, Haines Alaska

Photo by Eddie Bauer First Ascent, Will Wissman

exhibitions • events educational Programs monday–Friday 12–4pm Saturday 1–4pm S K i & h e r i ta g e m u S e u m S The hills are painted with red grass.

Photo by Sam Beebe/Ecotrust

K e t c h u m • S u n Va l l e y

KSVHS Forest Service Park 208-726-8118 • www.ksvhs.org 180 First Street POB 2746, Ketchum 83340 hiStorical Society

were legendary, once running a scow loaded with a VW bus down the Middle Fork from Dagger Falls to the Flying B Ranch, 67 miles through class III and IV rapids. For Bobbi, who spent many of her young days on her dad’s lap steering a jet boat, the connection to the river has passed through four generations.

“I belong here, I guess.” Thinking about it for a moment, she adds, “It’s really like a fairy tale, living on the river.”

A Vision for those to Come

Perhaps the most significant result of the outfitting era was that wider swaths of people began to see and appreciate the rivers. The rivers became a place people valued for the restorative experience alone.

One of the first people to recognize that value and work to preserve it for generations to follow was Senator Frank Church, who represented Idaho from 1957 to 1981. Church, who died of cancer in 1984, grew up in Boise. It is there where he met and became friends with his eventual wife, Bethine Clark (Church).

Bethine, who turned 88 in February, remembers how early experiences on and near the river were so formative for her and her husband. She recalls her early life on the Robinson Bar Ranch, a 128-acre family homestead along the Salmon River near Stanley, “Pop used to catch salmon at the bend by the house. They were so thick there you could see them flashing and sparkling in the sun … And Frank just loved the ranch. He used to visit during summers in high school.”

And then Bethine remembers their first trip down the Middle Fork in the summer of 1963.

She remembers it vividly because she, Senator Church and their 5- and 14-year-old sons had just met Vice President Lyndon Johnson at the Idaho National Laboratory. The family left that meeting and drove directly to the river put-in.

It was a definitive experience for the young senator. “His watching the salmon on our old homestead, then seeing the Middle Fork, Frank thought there had to be other places like this.

And that they should be protected.”

Senator Church’s sponsoring of the Wilderness Act of 1964 “was just the beginning,” as Bethine says. It was not a popular position to take, particularly in the Gem State. Many Idahoans opposed the Act because, as she explains, “Many thought ‘Wilderness’ was for rich Easterners. ‘Politically,’ Frank said to me, 108 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

‘I need this bill like a hole in the head.’ But it was terribly important to him.”

Nonetheless, the Act passed and Church went on to sponsor the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968, of which the Middle Fork was one of the original eight rivers designated (the Main Salmon was added in 1980.) It was also in 1980 that Church played a pivotal role in establishing the River of No Return Wilderness, at 2.36 million acres, the second largest wilderness area (just behind California’s arid Death Valley) in the lower 48 states.

A Changing Relationship

The rivers—Middle Fork and Main Salmon—draw thousands of visitors now; 10,000 per year on the Middle Fork, 8,500 per year on the Main Salmon. This is not to mention the countless hikers, horseback riders and backcountry pilots. It is home to bighorn sheep, mountain goats, mountain lions, wolves, bears, bald eagles and osprey, trout and, of course, salmon. It is a wonderland bastion of life that stretches over more land than most people can imagine.

It was a true vision that Church saw to fruition. Just weeks before his death, Senator Church was told the wilderness area he had helped create would bear his name: “The Frank Church – River of No Return Wilderness.” Church, who had a protracted battle with pancreatic cancer, told his wife Bethine, as she recalls, “‘It was worth dying so long for.’”

And so this great wild river and country has changed over time, not so much in its raw nature, but more in our perception of it.

Where once we pulled things from the river, now it gives back to us. What it offers is variable and personal. But it is clear that days spent on the Salmon River change people.

Brent Estep, owner of Mackay Wilderness River Trips, has seen the changes over a 30-year career. “Observing the positive effect the river has on people reinforces my belief that people need to escape the hustle and bustle of our everyday electronic, fossil-fueled world … My guests tell me time and time again, ‘Now I understand why this place is so special and why it is so important to protect.’”

Having spent much of my adult life on rivers—as kayaker, boatman, father introducing children to them—I’ve puzzled over the hold a great river like the Salmon has over us. Sit idle by a wild river like the Middle Fork—the water clear as air, carving the earth as it has for nearly 2 million years—and one feels more in the moment of life than any other place I know.

It is a place to remember what it is to be wild, to witness the complexity of nature in balance, the natural cycles of life, all of which we can become divorced from in modern living.

And while a river brings us to the moment of living, it also binds us to time past and future. Its constancy allows us to imagine times before and after us, and that places us securely in a continuous arc that can be reassuring. It is particularly important to us now as the great force of the world seems to be to break up our experience into digitalized bits, so that anything and everything can be pulled from context, repurposed, magnified, or retouched. If our lives feel disjointed, this is part of the reason. Time on a river stitches the pieces back together, if only for a while.

In the end, 2.36 million acres is just a number. To truly comprehend the vast beauty of this place, one need see it from the air—in a small plane, a four-seater that lumbers over the terrain. Fly from a small strip in Challis or Stanley, up and into the wilderness. One can see nothing but an endless stretch of green. For all you can tell, this is the skin of the universe, pocked with grey and pink granite and the whiskery char of past forest fires. Before long, you will see the Salmon or one of its tributaries making a circuitous path to the ocean. These rivers, transporting life to a thirsty land, form the great wrinkles on the undulating visage.

From this vantage point, when the sun hits the river just right, great bursts of light blaze from below—it could be the silver flash of salmon from past times or just the perfect reflection off pristine water. But the world is as it has been from the beginning. Life is fresh and glistens and goes on forever.

Behold this. It is something to hold close in the mind’s eye, simple and weightless, a talisman to carry us through.

The Middle Fork of the Salmon River—A Comprehensive Guide by longtime Middle Fork river guide, Matt Leidecker, is considered the perfect accompaniment for floating the “Crown Jewel” of Wild and Scenic rivers. Containing detailed topographic maps, rapid descriptions, historical points of interest, geologic history, over 130 hikes and more than 100 stunning photographs, it provides readers with the intimate knowledge necessary to make the most out of any Middle Fork trip. The guidebook is printed on waterproof paper and it even floats!

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 109

Experience Ruby Springs Lodge.

Fly fish some of Montana’s most storied rivers and private-access spring creeks.

Revel in superb cuisine and beautifully-appointed riverside cabins. Lose yourself in a classic Montana landscape. www.rubyspringslodge.com info@rubyspringslodge.com 800-278-RUBY (7829)

Simply the BEST way to spend the day!

Full and Half Day Rafting Trips Kayak Lessons • Float Fishing

Sun Valley | Stanley | Salmon River

whiteotter.com

208.788.5005

RIGGINS

a classic idaho river town continued from page 84

The People “You have to admit,” Kate MacEachern said, while holding a Charlie Russell omelet in one hand and a side of thick, buttered toast in the other, “this is a pretty great place. And there ain’t even no stinkin’ McDonalds!”

Kate and her business partner/cook Bert Tumelson opened Bert & Kate’s Cattleman’s Restaurant on the southwest side of town just a few years ago, and business has been bustling ever since.

“I wanted to own a restaurant, I just wasn’t so hot about working in one,” Kate joked, while dropping a jar of locally made huckleberry jam on our table during a typical Saturday morning in March. The morning sun takes a while to make its way over the deep canyon walls, especially in the winter months. In any season, the small log cabin is usually packed full of locals sipping coffee, talking about the weather and enjoying the homemade fare.

Kate raised five kids from “grade school through grad school,” as she puts it, in Riggins. And you’d be hard-pressed to find a bigger fan of the town—or anyone anywhere with as much energy and zest for life.

“Sure, this place can get a little hot in the summertime. But it’s no big deal. If it gets too hot, you can just go down to the river and jump in,” said Kate, a fisherman who likes to come over to Ketchum occasionally and cast flies for trout.

As a couple of other tables joined the conversation about the nice, cool winter mornings in Riggins, Kate piped back in, “I don’t know what you guys are talking about. 104 is my favorite temperature. This 50-degree stuff is for the birds!”

Mild winters and sweltering summers alongside a river certainly make an ideal climate for many. Richelle Barger, publisher of the Riggins-based newspaper, The Current News, is one such person.

“Obviously, we have the best weather for gardening, a natural riverbed with secret fishing holes, white sandy beaches and kayaking play spots, dirt roads to walk our dogs and incredible scenery in every direction. Yeah, we’ve got all that going for us,” she explained.

“And, we run on river time. We encourage everyone to slow down, especially down Main Street … our cops will nail you.”

110 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Richelle is a Montana native, but rivers run through her fiery heart. She moved to Riggins a decade ago, shortly after giving birth to a son and, as she explains, “it only made sense to raise our son on the river. It was the best thing we have done for him so far.”

You don’t have to spend too much time in Riggins before it becomes obvious that the sense of community in this small Gem State town is as strong as the current of the mighty Salmon River during the spring runoff.

We chatted about the wonders of Riggins in between sets of the local favorite, the River Rock Band, rocking out at the Seven Devils Saloon. “We are a bunch of rogues with a bunch of crazy ideas that don’t necessarily match anyone else’s and we like to have fun and encourage everyone who visits to have fun. We enjoy peace and quiet but know how to cut a rug any chance we get.

Even the city council meetings are a hoot because the characters are so very funny,” Richelle stated proudly.

“Riggins is a place where cell phone reception is spotty and a few times each year we lose power for at least three hours. We are a bunch of hippies, cowboys, Republicans (of course), a few (closet) Democrats, teachers, river guides and hunting outfitters, loggers, veterans, rafters, jet-boaters and gear-heads, who are all just trying to be neighbors—a diverse community,” as Richelle describes it, adding, “it’s a funky little town, population 440. But 440 of the most interesting people you will ever meet.”

There is a magic about Riggins—the kind all great river towns have. As to exactly what that magic is, it’s hard to say. But those lucky enough to know it also know a passion for the place that runs as deep as the famous river that flows past it. The type of love for a classic river town best summed up by Dorian Clay.

Born and raised in Riggins, Dorian recently returned to town after spending three decades chasing his engineering career all around the globe. Along with his wife, Marie, he now happily owns the Two Rivers Coffee House and Creamery on the south side of town. As Dorian put it, “It’s pretty simple. Riggins is just a wonderful place to be.”

So be careful if you go to Riggins. It just might sink its teeth into you.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 111

www.Belgard.biz

WEBB LANDSCAPE, INC. — your local Belgard dealer for the Wood River Valley WEBB KETCHUM  891 Washington Avenue  Ketchum, Idaho 83340  P: 208.788.2066  F: 208.726.4767 WEBB HAILEY  417 North Main  Hailey, Idaho 83333  P: 208.720.8066  F: 208.788.0257 WEBB BELLEVUE  162 Glendale Road  Bellevue, Idaho 83313  P: 208.788.2066  F: 208.788.2633 WEBBland.com

TH IN G

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GIFT GUIDE

Whether you’re looking for that perfect gift or simply something to give as a way to show how much you care, the goal of any gift giver is to get that “Wow!” reaction from its recipient. To help, here’s a selection of gifts sure to be high on the “Wow!” factor.

PHOTOGRAPHY Five B Studios

barry peterson jewelers

Barry Peterson’s Latest Signature Design, part of the Original Snowflake Collection, features countless design options. Choose to accent this newest edition with round brilliant diamonds, rubies, sapphires or a variety of other precious gems; available in white or yellow gold and a variety of sizes to perfectly fit your personal style. This Barry Peterson Snowflake continues the tradition of excellence in fine jewelry and custom design—always a Sun Valley Favorite.

Barry Peterson Jewelers, 511 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum, www.barrypeterson.com, 208.726.5202

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 113

gift guide // things we love

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

lucky seven scarves

Renowned computer artist Brentano Haleen has created a line of beautiful and unique scarves to enhance your personal style and accompany your every mood. Inspired both by nature and by the creative mind and intuitive insight of a master artist, Brentano’s natural modern designs add color, flair and style that will enliven any outfit. Wrap yourself up in these gorgeous 100% silk scarves.

Made in the USA and available in a variety of sizes from 14”x 14” to 16”x 65”. $55 to $95.

Lucky Seven Scarves, www.luckysevenscarves.com

sun valley garden center

Groovy wallet and luggage tag by Shag Wear™. Many other colorful graphics and patterns available. Wallet $27.95, Luggage Tag $9.95 Sun Valley Garden Center, 771 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.788.3533

24/7 skin spa & makeup studio

The words cleanse, correct, moisturize and protect are Nancy Kelly’s skincare mantra. This minimalistic approach to skincare has helped her clients stay on track. “I always reduce it to the basics,” says Kelly. Shown: 24/7 Pumice Scrub Cleanser, 24/7 Sun Valley Sheer Moisture with SPF 30, 24/7 AM/PM Cream, Clarisonic Mia™ Sonic Skin Cleansing System, Lip Toxyl Sheer, volumizing gloss with real diamond dust (color: Precious), Eye Shadow Brushes. 24/7 Skin Spa & Makeup Studio, 671 Washington Avenue North, Suite A, Ketchum, www.24-7skincare.com, 208.726.5400

sister

Slip into this stunning silk dress designed by cfda/Vogue magazine nominee, Gregory Parkinson. Coveted by taste makers and fashion insiders, Gregory’s luxurious garments are crafted using gorgeous fabrics that have been beaten up a little to give the pieces a unique sense of color and bohemian style. Complete the look with a hat designed by Italian hat designer Reinhard Plank. Reinhard designs hats that are elegant and sophisticated with a touch of quirkiness to express the wearer’s individuality. Sister, 100 North Leadville, Ketchum, sisterinketchum@aol.com, 208.726.5160 114 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

holli jewelers

lotus boutique & gallery

Slip this stunning one-of-a-kind piece over your wrist for everyday wear or to dress up any outfit from the Woods Fine Jewelry collection. Made by hand using black ebony beads and a vintage rose cut diamond and rhodium silver bead. Carried exclusively in Sun Valley by Holli Jewelers. Holli Jewelers, The Shops at The Colonnade, 380 Walnut Avenue, Ketchum, www.hollijewelers.com, 208.726.8099

Discover a unique shopping experience at one of the Wood River Valley’s newest galleries. Lotus Boutique & Gallery features artists’ work in a variety of mediums, accessories, jewelry, scarves, clothes and pillows like this unique bronze statue which is an old Eastern Indian piece and the bracelets, from Kimonos by Maria Lench.

Lotus Boutique & Gallery, 180 East Avenue, Ketchum, gayodmark@gmail.com, 208.720.2635

willow papery

Desk in a Bag: The perfect present for someone on the run, or as a house gift or thank you.

This 4”X6” silk bag comes in a variety of patterns and includes a silk-covered notebook, scissors, pen, tape measurer, mini stapler and mini tape dispenser with refills. Desk in a Bag: $30 Willow Papery, 320 North Leadville, Ketchum, www.willowpapery.com, 208.726.0456

sun valley garden center sun valley eyeworks

In honor of the 60th anniversary of Harper Lee’s Pulitzer Prize winning novel To Kill A Mockingbird, and the Academy Award-winning performance by Gregory Peck, Oliver Peoples is launching this iconic eyewear frame.

Sun Valley Eyeworks The Galleria, 4th and Leadville, Ketchum 208.726.8749

Colorful, decorative bind resin birds with leaves by Designs Combined, $8.95 each. Darling ceramic owl cookie jar by Midwest of Cannon Falls, $54.95 with matching salt and pepper shakers available for $12.95 per set. Sun Valley Garden Center, 771 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.788.3533

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 115

photo: Tim Brown

Sushi, Seafood, Something for everyone . . . including the hottest Martini Lounge!

“Best Sushi in a landlocked state.” - Wine Enthusiast “One of the top ten best new restaurants in the country.” - Wine Enthusiast

sushi • seafood • sake 208.788.3310 • 416 N. Main St. Hailey, Idaho • www.zou75.com FIND US ON FACEBOOK

118// stoecklein & deflice Getting Hitched Idaho Style

122// firestone & von winterfeldt

wedding bliss

Fire on the Mountains

126// wedding listings

craig wolfrom

Local Wedding Vendors

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 117

hillary maybery

LocaL buzz // xxxxxxx

118 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

JUDITH M cQ U E E N

ENTERTAINING

the wedding

date: July Third, Two Thousand Ten

location: Three Sisters Ranch, Mackay, Idaho welcome dinner: The Valley Club

rehearsal dinner: Wild Horse Creek Ranch BBQ

CATERING WEDDING & EVENT PLANNING KITCHEN OUTFITTING STAFFING

ceremony and reception Three Sisters Ranch guest weekend activities: Golf at The Valley

Club, fishing, biking, whitewater rafting on the Salmon, horseback trail riding at Wild Horse Creek Ranch.

Gettin’ Hitched Idaho Style

BY Laurie Sammis

The setting was perfect for the marriage of Jessica Stoecklein to Rich DeFelice. The sky was blue and expansive, the sun was warm and the Three Sisters Mountain peaks rose in the distance above the reflection pond where the two exchanged their vows—at the picturesque setting of Walter and Shelley Stoecklein’s Three Sisters Ranch (named after the distant peaks and also in honor of their three daughters) in Mackay, Idaho.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 119

www.JudithMcQueen.com

(208) 788-7716

PHOTO Hillary Maybery

weddings // stoecklein & deflice

}

EVENT

PLANNING

208.578.0583 www.tabletoppersv.com sun valley, idaho

EXQUISITE PARTIES UNIQUELY YOURS

Planning a special event?

20 or 200 guests?

•••

Formal dinner, or Informal barbeque?

•••

CIRO Rainbow Room, CIRO restaurant, or in your home?

•••

Simple occasion or elaborate celebration, we can provide event spaces, a full range of services & professional staff dedicated to affordability, quality, service & detail...

so that you can relax & enjoy your special event!

Call Mark at

CIRO restaurant & catering

207.727.1800

The window boxes and flower beds were overflowing with blooms started from seed by friend and Mackay local Julie Buckwalter over the winter. The ranch grounds had been perfectly maintained (and coaxed out of the damage caused by a wintering elk herd and a surprise 40-minute hail storm just six days prior to the wedding) by Mike Turzian and the Sun Valley Garden Center crew.

Bales of hay wrapped in burlap (something borrowed, as they were on loan from a local rancher and were reused after the ceremony) stood at the ready for the 150 guests and a horse-drawn carriage draped in flowers arranged by Tara Bella Flowers stood at the ready for the bride and her father.

Everything was set. It was perfect. And the wedding went off without a hitch (other than those provided by Three Sisters Ranch).

“We have been on the ranch over 20 years and that night was the most spectacular light and sunset we have ever seen in all that time,” says Shelley Stoecklein, the bride’s mother, who adds that she feels it was a 120 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

work of art aided by the spirit of Jessica’s grandmother and cousin who had both passed away the previous year. “I really feel it was their way of saying, ‘Even though we’re not there, we are with you.’”

A beautiful clear-span tent was set up to allow guests to experience the incredible Mackay sky and miniature wreaths of flowers floated on the pond with tiny lights that twinkled late into the Idaho night.

The bride’s dress, a beautiful creation by Tomasina, a Pittsburgh designer who also designed her birdcage veil, was both stunning and functional. The designer came up with the idea of making the dress in two pieces, so that the heavy train could be detached completely, which allowed Jessica to dance with Rich and their guests late into the night.

The detachable train also allowed Jessica to show off her hand-tooled and custom-made Rocketbuster boots from El Paso, Texas (her sister and Maid of Honor, Merideth, sported a custom-made pair by Rocketbuster as well).

The high alpine evenings can get chilly, so cozy, soft wraps were rolled up in a big basket as favors for the female guests and pre-made gift bags welcoming each guest to town had also included other essentials—flashlights,

Heather

Hm

Events

Minor

Hillary Maybery

dancing & matches: craig wolfrom / food, tent and f lowers: hillary maybery

Photography

packets of natural bug repellent, (just in case), water (essential for hydration at altitude) and a box of locally-made Cowgirl Truffles and other local food specialties. In a nod to the Idaho locale and the Famous Potato state, the gift bags were crafted of burlap bags and hand stamped with a sponged brand from the Three Sisters Ranch.

“The wedding was special in every imaginable way because there was so much thought, time and detail put into every aspect of the day,” says Jessica, then adds that she was thrilled to be able to share the West with all their friends and family from the East Coast.

There were activities all week—with guests staying at the Stoeckleins’ ranch in Mackay, a neighboring ranch, Wild Horse Creek Ranch, down the road toward Trail Creek Summit, and also in Sun Valley. Guests shared in the experience of the West, including a raft trip down the day stretch of the Salmon River with White Otter, fishing, golfing, enjoying the trails and scenic vistas of Sun Valley and Mackay, and an amazing Mexican-themed Welcome BBQ at Wild Horse Creek Ranch for nearly 133 guests that Judith McQueen pulled together on Friday night.

“Rich and I are both huge ‘foodies,’” says Jessica, “and we were so blessed to find Judith. Her menus were truly amazing.”

It was a week filled with activity, sunshine and new memories. And the evening ended with a spectacular fireworks display high across the deep Idaho night and above a tent that looked like it had been made of glass for a clear view towards the future.

heather@heatherminorevents.com www.heatherminorevents.com

208.309.1014 P.O. Box 4445 Ketchum ID

VENDOR LIST wedding planner:

Judith McQueen Entertaining flowers: Tara Bella hair/makeup: Rachel McLaughlin dress/shoes: Thomasina in Pittsburgh, PA; Custom Cowboy boots from Rocketbuster, El Paso, Texas grooms attire: J.Crew suit, Burberry tie, Thomas Pink fitted white button down shirt and cufflinks bridesmaids dresses/groomsmen:

J.Crew dresses, Summer 2010 line; J.Crew suits and Facconable ties music: DJ Lenny Joseph food: Judith McQueen Entertaining dessert: Judith McQueen Entertaining invites: hand stamped on wood

by Laura Hooper Calligraphy photographer: Hillary Maybery & Craig Wolfrom officiant: Roman Catholic Priest Father Paul Wander rentals: Signature Party Rentals; That’s Entertainment

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 121

weddings // firestone & von winterfeldt

the wedding

date: February Nineteenth, Two Thousand Eleven location: Sun Valley Resort

welcome dinner: Roundhouse restaurant cocktail reception: Lodge Sun Room rehearsal dinner: Sun Valley Club

ceremony and reception: The Valley Club

guest weekend activities: Skiing, ice skating,

lounging at the Sun Valley outdoor pool

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IL L

OW P APE R

Y

W

Your one-stop wedding stationery store Personalized printing: Invitations, menu cards, place cards Bridesmaid’s gifts Greeting cards & wrapping paper Last minute in-store printing

6 Range of specialty lines Arzberger Crane & Co. Vera Wang William Arthur

Fire on the Mountains

BY Laurie Sammis

PHOTOGRAPHY Kirsten Shultz

Lisa Firestone has spent her summers in Sun Valley since she was a little girl—traveling from Scottsdale, Arizona, to enjoy the long summer months for as long as she can remember, first as a regular performer in the Sun Valley Ice Shows and later in ice hockey camp.

But it was a winter wedding that captured both her and her husbandto-be’s, Caspar von Winterfeldt, hearts. And they were married in the midst of a snow-filled and magical Sun Valley night on February 19, 2011.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 123

Featuring

Kristy Logan Jewelry

320 N. Leadville Avenue Ketchum 726.0456 www.willowpapery.com info@willowpapery.com

weddings // firestone & von winterfeldt

Catering Lunch Delicatessen Takeout

u

315 S. Main St., Hailey

208.928.7711 411 5th St., Ketchum 208.726.0606

The jet-setting couple met on New Year’s Eve on the island of St. Bart’s while on vacation with different groups of friends.

And although they both lived in Los Angeles at the time, their paths had never before crossed. A whirlwind romance followed and Caspar, in a moment of perfect timing (he is a film producer), proposed less than a year later at La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul de Vence while they were traveling in the south of France. The ring, which had been in the von Winterfeldt family for five generations, was a stunning black pearl with diamond heirloom.

The couple’s deep love of Sun Valley led them away from the sand and surf of Santa Monica and toward the snow-covered slopes of Sun Valley Resort. The wedding 124 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

theme was focused around the winter wonderland of Sun Valley and featured a full week of events that ranged from dinners and cocktail receptions to skiing and relaxing in the outdoor pool at the Sun Valley Lodge. “Many of our guests were traveling internationally from Paris, Madrid, Germany and Chile,” says Lisa, “and we wanted them to enjoy all that Sun Valley Resort and the area had to offer and know why we both love it.”

A cocktail reception was held at the Sun Room in the Lodge, the mountain played host to organized ski days with après-ski at the outdoor pool at Sun Valley Lodge, ice skating at the outdoor rink and bowling in the Lodge added authenticity, and The Sun Club hosted the rehearsal dinner on

the vendors

Weddings & Floral Design

wedding planner:

Amanda Seaward

flowers: Primavera

hair: Jamilynn Smith of Vertu makeup: Noelle Hodge

dress and shoes: Amanda Wakely, London; Gina Shoes, London grooms attire: Tuxedo bridesmaids dresses: Ralph Lauren and Amanda Wakely, London music: DJ Max Chipchase food: Sun Valley Resort and The Valley Club linens: Table Toppers dessert: Skier’s cake from Cristina’s invitations: Sugar in Brentwood, CA photographer: Kirsten Shultz videographer: Charlie Webster officiant: Aisha Duyen Davis

Friday night. Special touches included a cocktail reception on Thursday night at the home of Alex Kuczynski and Charles Stevenson, and a Wednesday night dinner at the Roundhouse restaurant for 100 that was snowy, intimate and magical. “The history and tradition of the lodge created such a unique atmosphere,” Lisa says, “and riding the gondola at night was incredible.”

The wedding and reception for 120 was held at The Valley Club and silver tablecloths, delicate and glittering tinsel and glass snowflake cutouts, elegant white orchids, roses and lilies, and silver drapery echoed the winter wonderland theme.

Aisha Duyen Davis, a good friend of the bride, married the couple, and international superstar DJ Max Chipchase, another good friend of the couple, got the party up and on its feet. “Max had everyone rocking, from the 7-year-olds to the 70-somethings,” Lisa recalls, “he was amazing and really made our wedding a huge success!”

And in one final nod to Sun Valley and all things snow, the crowning moment of the night was the cutting of the cake. “It was a highlight of the night and very special to us,” Lisa recalls. The cake was a towering and whimsical skier’s cake that reflected the passions of the bride and groom—a one-of-a-kind creation from Cristina’s that featured a gondola made out of graham crackers and special trails dedicated to the bride (Firestone Trail) and groom (von Winterfeldt Way).

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 125

208.788.4046 www.tarabellaflowers.com tarabellaflowers@gmail.com

photo: Dev Khasla

photo: Thia Konig

photo: Hillary Maybery

wedding // vendors

local wedding vendors There is no better place on the planet to get married than Sun Valley and its surroundings. To make sure your nuptials are nothing shy of magical, here are some of the Valley’s finest wedding vendors.

beauty

24/7 skin care

Offering a licensed professional wedding makeup studio and the perfect skin preparation skincare program, 24/7 Skin Care specializes in making sure brides and grooms look gorgeous on their big day. Offering bridal and groom parties, radiant natural or dramatic applications, we work with all budgets. Prehoneymoon waxing, eyebrow shape and lash tinting, we also offer makeup lessons and educate our brides on their skin type and the basic makeup application techniques they may apply themselves.

208.726.5400 www.24-7skincare.com

chic nail + beauty bar

Affordable luxury with top-of-the-line products for natural nail and glowing skin care.

Indulge your senses and experience a complete beauty bar with facials, waxing, manis and pedis, spray tan and Happy Hour Fridays. Come pamper your feet, hands and face!

208.788.1355 www.chicnailandbeautybar.com

cakes

the sweet crumb

The Sweet Crumb is Sun Valley’s newest bakery specializing in sweet treats for all occasions!

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Our cakes are baked to order using the finest quality ingredients to ensure they taste as good as they look. Wedding cakes, specialty cakes, cupcakes and cake pops. We also offer styling services for any of your special events.

208.720.1255 www.thesweetcrumb.com

catering

ciro

Whether it’s a party for 20 or 200, an event held at CIRO restaurant, or having our chefs come to the venue of your choice, CIRO will make sure you can relax and enjoy your special day. From simple occasions to elaborate celebrations, in all it approaches, CIRO is dedicated to service, quality and detail.

208.622.4400 www.cirosunvalley.com

judith mcqueen entertaining

Judith McQueen Entertaining’s events exemplify the quintessential Sun Valley experience. From classic destination weddings to memorable local fare, we provide worldclass catering and event coordination—making your entire experience weightless and, more importantly, fun. We suggest you book far in advance so we can realize your vision together.

208.788.7716 www.judithmcqueen.com

rasberrys

Let Rasberrys catering take away the stress and put the joy in your special events: bridal showers, rehearsal dinners, receptions and weddings, intimate dinners or parties for all your family and friends. Tell us your dream, we’ll make it come true for you.

208.928.7711

event locations

elkhorn springs restaurant

Located in the heart of beautiful Sun Valley, Idaho, Elkhorn Springs Restaurant is available to rent year-round for parties, weddings, meetings or banquets. Newly constructed and completed in 2008, the restaurant features the finest commercial cooking equipment, 800-square-foot steel patina wood burning fireplace, beautiful décor and much more.

208.725.2256 www.elkhornspringsrestaurant.com

Privacy and breathtaking natural beauty create the picture-perfect setting for your wedding or private party at historic Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch. Charming accommodations, excellent cuisine and a gracious staff provide a perfect celebration event. Martha Stewart Weddings named IRMR an outstanding wedding destination venue.

208.774.2544 www.idahorocky.com

wild horse creek ranch

If you’re looking for a supreme Idaho wedding experience, look no further than the Wild Horse Creek Ranch. Nestled in the incomparably picturesque Copper Basin, just 20 miles east of Sun Valley, the ranch is located in one of the West’s most spectacular and serene landscapes. Whether it’s for your next group retreat, or for a truly unique and unforgettable Western wedding, the Wild Horse Creek Ranch is waiting. Come, be inspired in the Pioneer Mountains of central Idaho, at a guest ranch that offers the authentic West.

208.588.2575 www.wildhorsecreekranch.net

event planning & rentals

absolute weddings saseaward@hotmail.com 208.720.4713

a-list weddings – ashley dyer

Recently engaged? Are you or someone you know getting ready for their big day? A- List Weddings is dedicated to making those special occasions effortless and extraordinary!

Offering complete wedding and event planning, we will help you envision your day and take care of every detail to perfection. We look forward to hearing from you.

208.720.5764 www.alistweddings.com Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 127

SUN VALLEY MAGAZINE PRESENTS

planning a sun valley wedding

© Hillary Maybery

tent and dress: hillary maybery / placecards: craig wolfrom

idaho rocky mountain ranch

From flowers to rings, from caterers to photographers, we’re your one-stop resource for everything you need to plan the perfect Sun Valley Wedding.

Check out our wedding blog, Hitched, for weekly tips and previews of unique local weddings. www.sunvalley-weddings.com

hillary maybery photography

I’m easy going and down to earth. I love things daring, to laugh, flip flops, and strawberry margaritas. My style is fresh, vibrant, with a dash of fashion. I photograph every detail—from the decor to the shoes, kisses, hugs and laughter. I love Sun Valley and destination weddings!

208.928.7333 www.hillarymaybery.com

barbara’s party rentals

With 25 years of experience, Barbara’s Party Rentals has everything you need to make your special event perfect. Classic and transparent tents, wedding and party planning, beer and wine sales, tables, chairs, linens, dance floors, and casual to elegant place settings and clever accessories to personalize every detail. They’re the local know-it-alls that you can trust to deliver quality to your event.

208.726.3778 www.barbaraspartyrental.com

heather minor events

Heather Minor Events offers creative wedding planning and event planning services that will help you create an event that reflects your own personality and style. We are here to make your magical day a reality from start to finish.

Our proven approach ensures that your event will be meticulously planned and perfectly executed so you can sit back and enjoy. We look forward to working, with your help, to plan your big day or next event.

208.309.1014 www.heatherminorevents.com

tabletoppers event planning

Maria Gerhardt and Sonya Wilander’s strong philanthropic ties to the community found them developing some of the most glamorous and successful fundraisers in Sun Valley, leading to the creation of Tabletoppers, a full service event planning company. Today, they are renowned for orchestrating and designing the Valley’s most elegant parties.

208.578.0583 www.tabletoppersv.com

florists

primavera

Primavera Plants and Flowers is Sun Valley’s premier florist specializing in weddings, parties, and home décor. Orchid plants, 128 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

blooming and foliage plants, baskets, candles, pottery and planters. Gourmet gift baskets, fresh, silk and dried flower arrangements. We deliver and wire flowers anywhere.

208.726.7788 www.primaverasunvalley.com

sue bridgman florist

kirsten shultz photography

An award-winning editorial and wedding lifestyle photographer, unobtrusively documenting the beauty of the day as it unfolds. Available in Sun Valley and worldwide.

208.481.0138 www.ksweddings.com

Specializing in innovative and stylish floral design, Sue Ellen Bridgman Florist is the leading floral design studio in the Sun ValleyKetchum area. Our reputation for quality and service is built on years of creating beautiful and spectacular weddings, parties, conventions, and distinctive events. From the exotic and bold, to the simple and elegant, we can do it all.

208.725.0606 www.bridgmanweddings.com

registry & gifts

tara bella floral designs

stationery & invitations

Tara Bella specializes in beautiful destination weddings and eye-popping special events.

Celebrated for her unique style and meticulous attention to detail, Tara Ooms and her talented staff tailor custom elegant floral designs for every occasion. Ooms’ passion for flowers shines through with the grace and hospitality that only a true Southern belle could possess.

208.788.4046 www.tarabellaflowers.com

photographers

craig wolfrom photography

Weddings are inherently staged events.

Months of decisions finally lead to the big day with impeccable decorations adorning a choreographed schedule. While detail images are essential, Craig Wolfrom Photography believes wedding images should transcend cliché and celebrate the relationships shared by family and friends, reflect moments candidly, and capture unique, creative and artistic portraits. 208.578.3601 www.craigwolfromphotography.com

the picket fence

Proudly serving our loyal clientele for over 30 years, The Picket Fence offers stylish tabletop settings, luxury bedding, unique home décor, and fine bath products. Conveniently register online, and guests can have your gifts wrapped and ready for pick-up, or let our friendly staff assist you in our Sun Valley store.

866.944.5511 www.thepicketfence.com

honey paper – a paper & design boutique

Honey Paper is a paper and design boutique specializing in event graphics. Details are key to creating a special celebration, whether it is a personal touch on an invitation or unique favors, we will help you create your vision with a custom design or assist you with do-it-yourself elements. Call for an appointment.

208.928.7999 www.honey-paper.com

willow papery

Celebrating in Sun Valley? Let Willow Papery help. A full-service stationery boutique, Willow Papery carries a wide range of invitations, gifts, greeting cards, wrapping paper, ribbon and Kristy Logan Jewelry. We’re also here to assist with last-minute printing needs: menu cards, place cards, gift tags and so much more.

208.726.0456 www.willowpapery.com

craig wolfrom

wedding // vendors

AList Weddings

Ashley Dyer Wedding Planner ashley208@cox.net www.alistweddings.com 208-720-5764

Elkhorn Springs Restaurant

Located in the heart of Elkhorn in beautiful Sun Valley, Idaho. Available to rent year round for parties, weddings, meetings or banquets.

Sue Bridgman Florist FLORAL

DESIGN STUDIO

Photo: Kirstin Shultz

208.725.2256 www.elkhornspringsrestaurant.com dbacca@hennessyco.com

Barbara’s Party Renta ls

WWW.BRIDGMANWEDDINGS.COM 208.725.0606

Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch

{

weddings • private events www.idahorocky.com 208.774.3544 info@idahorocky.com

Stanley, Idaho

s Party Specialist Established 1985

artyrental.com

www.barbarasp

208.726.3778

208.720.1255 www.thesweetcrumb.com Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 129

charles arnoldi at ochi gallery

galleries & artists

Whether a passionate collector, a hands-on artist or simply a casual gift buyer, Wood River Valley visitors and residents alike celebrate the arts in all forms. Indulge your senses. See, feel or hear for yourself. Visit the artists and galleries highlighted here, or check our website at www.sunvalleymag.com for a calendar of art classes and special events.

Boulder mountain clay and art gallery 491 E 10th Street, #A10 Ketchum, ID 208.726.0773 or 208.726.4484 bouldermtnclay@yahoo.com www.bouldermtnclay.com

Susan Ward, Porcelain Vessels

The Gallery features work by Susan Ward and the clay artists of the Boulder Mountain Clayworks. Local artists who are selling oneof-a-kind clay art as well as functional ware of the best quality are shown here. Orders for dinnerware can be placed and special orders for anything from serving dishes to lamp bases are encouraged. The Gallery is open from 10am to 5pm most days but Sunday. The Gallery is located across from the Knob Hill Inn, on Highway 75 north of town.

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Farasha Boutique 360 Walnut Avenue Ketchum, ID 208.726.9005 Vanessa@FarashaStyle.com www.FarashaStyle.com

Farasha is an avant-garde fashion boutique, featuring emerging fashion designers from around the globe. This one-of-a-kind boutique is a true representation of the concept “art meets fashion” and operates under the notion that fashion design is a genuine art form. Each collection is an expression of the designer and, in many cases, a representation of their culture as well. This boutique is an exhibit of fashion that offers clientele the rare opportunity to discover new clothing lines and shop eclectic collections from an array of modern designers.

From exclusive clothing and handbags, to exquisite jewelry, Farasha is a whirlwind of fashion and style that you won’t find anywhere else. Don’t miss this stunning new boutique.

Personal shopping and styling services are also available.

Friesen Gallery Sun Valley Road at First Ave • Ketchum, ID 1200 Second Ave • Seattle, WA 208.726.4174 • www.friesengallery.com www.friesengallery.com

Lathyrus Latifolius, Martin Klimas Pigment Print

Friesen Gallery exhibits contemporary paintings, glass, and sculpture by internationally and nationally recognized artists: David Kimball Anderson, Martin Blank, Jeanne Brennan, Christopher Brown, Ford Crull, Andie deRoux, Dennis Evans, Danae Falliers, Lawrence Fodor, Jeff Fontaine, Gregory Grenon, Reilly Jensen, Steve Jensen, Richard Jolley, Mary Josephson, Martin Klimas, Jill Lear, Holly Lyman, Ann Mallory, Nancy Mee, William Morris, Trinh Nguyen, Ross Richmond, Laura Scandrett, Catherine Eaton Skinner, Rob Snyder, Sebastian Spreng, Del Webber, Laura Sharp Wilson, and Brandon Zebold among others.

GAIL SEVERN GALLERY 400 First Avenue North Ketchum ID 208.726.5079 www.gailseverngallery.com

Master Framing and Installation Services since 1974

Girl with Small Dog Margaret Keelan, Clay, Glaze and Stains

Celebrating 35 years featuring contemporary painting, sculpture and photography: Victoria Adams, Nicolas Africano,Tony Berlant, Bo Bartlett, Squeak Carnwath, Linda Christensen, José Cobo, James Cook, Kris Cox, David deVillier, Betsy Eby, Tony Foster, Raphaëlle Goethals, Morris Graves, Michael Gregory, Michelle Haglund, Jonathon Hexner, Jun Kaneko, Judith Kindler, Gary Komarin, Hung Liu, Lynda Lowe, Laura McPhee, Cole Morgan, Kenna Moser, Gwynn Murrill, Ed Musante, Marcia Myers, Carolyn Olbum, Deborah Oropallo, Luis Gonzáles Palma, Robert Polidori, Christopher Reilly, Rene Rickabaugh, Will Robinson, Jane Rosen, Brad Rude, Julie Speidel, Jack Spencer, Mark Stasz, Therman Statom, Allison Stewart, and Theodore Waddell.

Visit our sculpture garden open through the summer. Severn Art Services­-custom framing and art installation services. gilman contemporary 661 Sun Valley Road Ketchum, ID 208.726.7585 www.gilmancontemporary.com

Severn Art Services has been the principal framer to collectors and galleries for 35 years. Specializing in quality custom and archival framing, featuring exquisite copies of vintage frames and contemporary frames for fine art, mirrors, and three dimensional objects of all sizes. We provide experienced installation and curatorial services for homes, collectors, and corporations. We also provide cost effective framing and care for prints, posters, personal mementos, and family photos.

Please visit us in our showroom, next to Gail Severn Gallery in the Severn Building at 400 First Avenue North, for consultation and frame selections.

Contact us for both indoor and outdoor installation needs.

Art Hanging & Installation Hardwoods • Leathers • Specialty Mats • Plexiboxes Gold Leaf • Custom Metals • Period Frames Conservation & Restoration

Severn Art ServiceS 400 First Avenue North • PO Box 1679 • Ketchum, ID 83340 208.726.5088 • fax 208.726.5092 artservices@gailseverngallery.com WWW.GAILSEVERNGALLERY.COM

The Forest for the Trees, Jared Rue Acrylic on Canvas, 106” x 78”

Gilman Contemporary was built on the premise of presenting innovative contemporary art in a relaxed setting. We represent a select group of emerging to mid-career artists who apply extraordinary vision to their art form through the use of content or material. Presenting photography, sculpture and paintings, we continue to fulfill our mission to expand the audience for contemporary art.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 131

FIRST FIRST CLASS CLASS FOR FOR YOUR YOUR PETS, PETS, YOUR YOUR BUDDIES BUDDIES & &

ALL YOUR TOYS With a unique cargo door, our Swiss-made Pilatus PC-12’s can safely fly your bikes kayaks, pets or up to nine passengers at 300 mph for about half the cost of most jets. WestAir Charter allows you to fly when it’s convenient for you.

Green Antelope Gallery 116 South 2nd Street Bellevue, ID 208.788.2353 www.greenantelope.net

Falling Leaves, Betsy Pearson, Acrylic on Canvas, 48” x 60”

WestAir Charter

888.511.5004 • westair.com/charter

Home of Julie Foods

Gluten-free Products  Distributor of Idaho's Bounty Local Seasonal Foods  Food-based Supplements

Kiki’s Cafe 9:30 to 4:00 Store hours 9:30 to 6:00 151 Main Street, Ketchum, ID 83340 Tel: 208.928.7604 | Fax: 208.928.7605 www.jjnourishme.com jjnourishme@gmail.com

Fine art gallery representing local and regional artists. Featuring paintings, photography, sculpture and jewelry in a variety of mediums and price ranges. Gallery space is in a charming restored old house, enhanced by the sculpture garden with mature trees and beautiful flowers. On the corner of Oak & 2nd, next to the bike path. Open Thursday to Saturday, 12-5 p.m., or by appointment. Visit the website to see our artists, available pieces and upcoming events.

Kneeland Gallery 271 First Avenue North • Ketchum, ID 208.726.5512 art@kneelandgallery.com www.kneelandgallery.com

Monarchs of Yellowstone, Craig Kosak, Oil on Canvas, 35” x 60”

Exhibiting paintings and sculpture by nationally recognized as well as emerging artists living and working in the West. Featured artists include Steven Lee Adams, Carol Alleman, Ovanes Berberian, Cary Henrie, John Horejs, Lona Hymas-Smith, Craig Kosak, Kent Lovelace, Jennifer Lowe, Robert Moore, Jean Richardson, Thom Ross, Carl Rowe, Linda St. Clair, Sherry Salari Sander, Linda Tippetts, Bart Walker and Andrzej Skorut. Additional artists can be viewed on our website.

132 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Linda St. Clair 271 First Avenue North, Ketchum, ID 208.726.5512 www.kneelandgallery.com

Yes Sir, That’s My Baby

Known for her vibrant animal portraits, Linda St. Clair’s latest creations will be featured this summer at Ketchum’s Kneeland Gallery, 271 First Avenue North. An artist’s reception for St. Clair will be held on Friday, July 1 from 5 p.m. till 8 p.m. as part of the “All Creatures Great and Small” show, which runs from June 22 through July 27.

Her rich oil paintings explore the quiet subtleties and complex internal drama of the animal spirit. Themes of love, strength, serenity and family can all be seen in her work. Among those remarkable new works is “Yes Sir, That’s My Baby,” (pictured) where St. Clair’s signature loose brushwork and strong colors speak to the universal experience of motherhood. lisa Holley, studio P.O. Box 3 Sun Valley, ID 208.622.9122 lisaholley_studio@yahoo.com

Osprey, Packing a Lunch

Illustrations of botanical and wildlife series totaling over 30 images composed from elements reflecting the subject’s habitat and/ or food sources, using dry brush watercolor techniques. Commissions accepted from collectors, museums and for commercial applications. Originals and limited edition signed offset lithographs are available starting at $75 each. Studio visits are welcome.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 133

Day, Week, and Monthly Passes available Wood River Community YMCA

101 Saddle Road, Ketchum • 208.727.YMCA (9622) • woodriverymca.org

Swim • Climb • Workout • Yoga • Fitness Classes • Y-Fi Computer Bar • Child Watch

1978

lotus boutique & gallery 180 East Ave, Ketchum, ID Next to Cristina’s 208.720.2635 • gayodmark@gmail.com

photo: Marcia Duff

SINCE

With more than 3O years experience running Idaho’s famed Middle Fork and Main Salmon, our top-notch crews know how to create unforgettable vacations that blend whitewater exhilaration with awe-inspiring natural grandeur— accented each evening by acclaimed campfire cuisine that’s always served at National a table with an exquisite view.

Geographic’s Prime trip dates do tend to fill Best Adventure up quickly, so contact us soon Travel Companies Recipient for complete details.

888.997.8399

208.756.8116

www.IdahoRiverJourneys.com

Middle Fork and Main Salmon trips are conducted under permit issued by the Salmon-Challis National Forest, Salmon, Idaho.

screen printing

promotional products

Corporate Gifts Uniforms Wholesale Apparel Special Events Conferences Conventions

208.726.1948 800.568.1948

Custom Embroidered Apparel/ Screen Printing/ Promotional Products

270 Northwood Way Suite 104, Ketchum, ID www.davisembroidery.com

Gay Odmark’s “in the company of friends” is moving forward to a more permanent location in Ketchum at 180 East Avenue, next to Cristina’s restaurant. The setting is a very informal cottage with remnants of northern Indian architectural decorative pieces. The focus is to feature innovative and personally expressive studio artists in the vanguard of formal and informal excellence. These artists work in a variety of mediums, accessories, jewelry, scarves, clothes, pillows. In addition, there will be beautiful scarves, shawls and throws from India and elsewhere. During the seasons there will be trunk shows featuring wearable art by new artists. Summer hours Tues-Sat, 11 am – 5 pm, closed Sun & Mon. Ochi Gallery 119 Lewis Street and 350 Walnut Ave. Ketchum, ID 208.726.8746 www.ochigallery.com

Untitled Silver Nude, Alison Van Pelt, Oil on Canvas, 2010, 60” x 36

For over 36 years Ochi Gallery has shown the work of contemporary masters and emerging artists. In two locations Ochi features the works of artists such as: Peter Alexander, Charles Arnoldi, Mia Babalis, James Castle, Sam Francis, Erin Hudak, Molly Larkey, David Levinthal, Sherry Markovitz, Patricia McClung, Peter Millett, Brittany Sanders, Katy Schimert, Cheryl Shurtleff, Nellie King Solomon, Pat Steir, Gordon Stevenson, Alison Van Pelt, Richard Young, Bing Wright and William T. Wiley.

134 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

SFP Studio 680 Sun Valley Road • PO Box 90, PMB 492 • Ketchum, ID 208.727.6803 • www.sfpstudio.com

SQT Graduation

LAW

the landscape of the

Offering Solutions to the Challenges of Doing Business

Coronado, 2005

“It’s one thing to photograph people; it’s another to make others care about them by revealing the core of their humanness.”

- Paul Strand At SFP Studio, Stephanie Freid-Perenchio, humanitarian documentary photographer, shares her photographs of people and wildlife from places around the world including Africa, Middle East, South America and Southeast Asia as well as Montana, Wyoming and her own private Idaho. Through all of her travels and images captured, Stephanie works to spotlight the dignity of humanity no matter the shape, size, religion, or country of origin.

When it comes to navigating the legal landscape, we serve our clients with sophistication and consistency.

At Hawley Troxell, the clients have the corner office.

208.344.6000 www.hawleytroxell.com

sun valley center for the arts 191 5th Street E., Ketchum, ID 314 2nd Avenue S., Hailey, ID 208.726.9491 www.sunvalleycenter.org

Boise • Coeur d’Alene • Hailey • Pocatello • Reno

Al Paragrate, Carl Andre, 2002 Promised gift of the Virginia and Bagley Wright Collection, in honor of the 75th Anniversary of the Seattle Art Museum

The Sun Valley Center brings the arts to our community this summer through concerts featuring The Avett Brothers, Michael Franti & Spearhead, Rickie Lee Jones and Grupo Fantasma; exhibitions Geared: The Culture of Bicycles and Minimalism: Then & Now; lectures and art classes for adults, families and kids; plus the Arts & Crafts Festival and our annual Wine Auction Fundraiser. See website for details and schedules.

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to Sun Valley and Shop Emerging Global Designers Photo by David Newkirk.

Now Open 360 Walnut Ave. - 208-726-9005

Galleries & restaurants // map

(TO IDAHO ROCKY MOUNTAIN RANCH) (TO OCHI GALLERY)

(TO TRAIL CREEK CABIN) (TO SUN VALLEY RESORT) (TO THE RAM)

*

Hailey

(TO GREEN ANTELOPE GALLERY)

to Bellevue

ketchum

(TO ROUNDHOUSE)

Restaurants G6

F7

The Cellar Pub 400 E. Sun Valley Rd. CIRO 230 Walnut Ave.

H13 CK’s Real Food

320 S. Main St., Hailey H6

G7

F6

F4

G5

Cornerstone Bar & Grill 211 N. Main St. Cristina’s 520 2nd St. E. dashi 220 East Ave. Globus 291 E. 6th St.

A4

G4

E5

Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch Stanley

G6

H5 il Naso

480 N. Washington Ave I5 Ketchum Grill

520 East Ave. H5 The Kneadery

260 N. Leadville Ave. H6 Michel’s Christiania

303 Walnut Ave.

Roosevelt Grille 280 N. Main St. Sawtooth Club 231 N. Main St. SEGO 310 Washington Ave.

Galleries C3

Pioneer Saloon 320 N. Main St.

A9

G6

F6 Smoky Mountain Pizza 200 Sun Valley Rd. H5 Sushi on Second

260 Second St. H4 Trail Creek Cabin

Trail Creek Rd. E7 Vintage Restaurant

231 Leadville Ave.

H13 Rasberry’s

315 S. Main St., Hailey

F11

Zaney’s 208 N. River St., Hailey

G6

F6

G5

A9

H4 Glow 380 Washington Ave., #105

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The Ram Sun Valley Inn

Riccabona’s 380 N. 1st Ave.

D11 Zou 75

416 N. Main St., Hailey

Boulder Mountain Clayworks 491 E. 10th St. #A10

(TO BRICKHOUSE BAR AND GRILL)

I5

*

Expressions Gallery

360 N. East Ave. Unit 2&3 G7 Friesen Gallery

320 Frist Ave., N. F6 Gail Severn Gallery 400 First Ave. N.

J13

Gilman Contemporary F7

661 Sun Valley Rd. G4 Green Antelope 116 S. 2nd St., Bellevue

H4

Harvey Arts 391 1st Ave. N.

Kneeland Galley 271 Frist Ave., N.

Lisa Holley www.lisaholley.com Lotus Boutique & Galley 180 East Ave., Next to Cristina’s Ochi Gallery 350 Walnut Ave. 119 Lewis St.

*

sfp Studio­ 680 Sun Valley Rd. SV Center for the Arts 191 5th St E.

G14 SV Center for the Arts

314 2nd Ave. S., Hailey

* By Appointment Only

dining guide The Wood River Valley enjoys a wide variety of food for every palate and budget. For the best advice in finding the perfect eatery, check out the tasty offerings shown here in Sun Valley Magazine’s dining guide.

Visit www.sunvalleymag.com for online menus.

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 137

CK’s Real Food Real meals for real people

We at CK’s believe our business should be part of the solution and not part of the problem. We recycle everything: metals, glass, paper, and cardboard. Our used cooking oil goes to the local science teacher for his bio-fuel car. The vegetable scraps become compost for our garden. Our paper products are made from wheat or recycled paper. Fifteen percent of our energy is produced by our rooftop solar panels and solar hot water is on the way soon. Many of us commute to work on foot or by bike. Our food comes from several local farms and ranches and we purify our drinking water. Our goal is fresh healthy food that will feed your body and your soul.

dashi

Casual, local, independent Focusing on local, organic and sustainable ingredients, dashi is the newest addition to the Ketchum dining scene. The new restaurant, opened by Chef Tyler Stokes, who has a spontaneous, open-minded approach to food, has built a reputation the last four years in the Valley as someone who cooks with passion, integrity and respect for food and the diner alike. Dashi will focus on modern Asian cuisine with a strong New American influence and a commitment to local products and farmers. The menu at dashi will be dictated by the seasons and the inspiration that each one brings. The freshest, sustainable seafood will be presented in sushi rolls, sashimi, salads and plated entrées designed to show the qualities and versatility of each individual fish. Local, organic and natural meats will be featured as well as wild game and fowl. Dashi will feature a creative, ever-changing list of seasonal vegetable preparations to honor the bounty of the season.

Enjoy ahi tuna tartare, wagyu beef carpaccio, an assortment of fresh lettuce wraps, fresh ramen and soba noodles, steamed buns and miso to start, then move onto an entrée of black cod, king salmon, organic chicken, grass-fed beef or rabbit. Open for lunch, we will be also serving Vietnamese bahn mi sandwiches featuring organic baggets, homemade terrines and pickled vegetables.

The atmosphere at dashi is modern, clean and casual. Large windows encase the dining area with some of the best views of Baldy in town. We are in the new “bistronomic” school of restaurants, juxtaposing three-star cuisine with humor and accessibility. By doing away with the Old World dress codes, white table clothes, elaborate floral displays and replacing them with hip music and a lively relaxed atmosphere, we are helping to redefine what fine dining means. The formal service and wine list is overseen by certified sommelier Robert Jensen. The beer list is not to be overlooked featuring the best craft beers available and a large selection to choose from. Sake is a must at dashi as we have a large selection of the finest premium Japanese sakes to enjoy.

Special thanks to all our suppliers Idaho’s Bounty Co-op Ernie’s Organics Shooting Star Farm Fair Mountain Farm Springs of Life Lava Lake Ranch Canyon Trout Farm Rolling Stone Chevre M&M Heath Farm Phone: 208.788.1223 Location: 320 S. Main Street, Hailey Hours: Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner nightly at 5 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Regional Northwest Service: Dinner nightly 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

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Ballard Dairy Water Wheel Farm King’s Crown Organics Grace Organics A+ Ranch Mountain Fresh Produce Mountain Pride Open Range Beef Phone: 208.928.7703 Location: 220 North East Ave, Ketchum Hours: Lunch 11:30-2:00 Dinner 5:30-10:00 Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, sake Reservations: Recommended for dinner Type of cuisine: Modern Asian/New American Service: Dine in, take out Website: www.dashisunvalley.com

Glow Live Food Cafe

Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch

100% organic and delicious

Photo: Hillary Maybery

Innovative cuisine in the heart of the Sawtooths

Health-conscious Ketchumites and visitors looking for high-energy, delicious and healthful foods need look no further than Glow Live Food Cafe.

Visitors, locals, and dedicated athletes flock to the always fresh and original Glow, an organic, vegan, live food cafe in the heart of Ketchum.

Owner Molly Peppo Brown, trained in nutrition by Gabriel Cousens, M.D., and Dr. Bob Marshall of Premier Research Labs, has created a bright and inviting space that serves healthy and nutritious fare using the live food concept (plant-based foods not heated or cooked above 118 degrees)—a way of preparing foods that keeps nutrients, minerals and enzymes intact for the body to utilize.

The menu, which is both innovative and delicious, consists of energizing superfood smoothies, green juices, a rotating daily selection of organic live vegan entrées and delicious desserts that are actually good for you! Every menu item is designed to satisfy the tastebuds and nourish the soul. Dig into the Deep Dish Pizza served on a sunflower-pumpkin-flax-chia-seed crust, or try the Indian Grain Bowl (cooked, vegan), a tasty concoction of diced bell peppers, carrots, kale, steamed quinoa and a creamy Indian-spiced cashew sauce. Other menu favorites are the Kale Salad with creamy dulse dressing, Sun Valley Wrap (in a collard leaf), and the Glow Roll. Also noteworthy are the Chia Porridge and Glow Buckwheat-goji Granola. Smoothie favorites are the Chocolate Banana Monkey Love or the Coconut Kiss.

All menu items are wheat, flour, soy, gluten and dairy free. Glow supports local farmers and uses local produce when seasonally available.

Glow offers hands-on classes, party platters and custom desserts.

Nutritionist Molly Peppo Brown offers nutrition consultations specializing in preventing and/or resolving chronic illness, living free from pain and medication, food and environmental stress, and optimizing high energy foods and supplements in diet and lifestyle. She also offers group cleanses several times per year.

Phone: 208.725.0314 Location: 380 Washington Avenue, #105, Ketchum Summer Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Shakes, smoothies, tea, lattés, juice Reservations: Not accepted Type of cuisine: Local, organic, raw, vegan Service: Dine in, takeout, party platters, catering, custom desserts Website: www.glowlivefood.com

Dining at the Ranch is more than an elegant meal: It’s an experience. Enjoy the unparalleled beauty of the Sawtooth and White Cloud Mountains in this stunning historic lodge, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, as you savor fine cuisine complemented by gracious service and a relaxed atmosphere.

Chef Jim Roberts, a Wood River Valley resident and 1993 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, New York, is now treating Ranch diners to his superb cuisine. In a style described as contemporary Northwest with a European flair, Jim’s innovative menus are designed for elegance and prepared with the freshest ingredients and finest technique, to delight the senses and please the most discriminating palate.

Among his creations: cedar-planked Idaho ruby red trout with smoky tomato butter and jasmine rice; Moulard duck breast with star anise infusion and grilled polenta; Lava Lake lamb loin with mint pesto and harissa hash; Alaskan halibut with champagne sauce over sweet corn risotto; house made pappardelle with morel mushrooms, pancetta, peas and corn; elk tenderloin medallions with potato gratin and black currant gastrique; Niman Ranch ribeye with blue cheese mashers and Bing cherry demi glace; grilled Alaskan salmon with basil citrus butter and baby artichokes; rare ahi tuna with glazed shiitakes and orange soy butter over steamed rice.

Sunday, Thursday and Saturday offer musical entertainment during the dinner hour. Our Summer Showcase Events feature Bruce Innes’ Annual Sunset Concert August 27, The Wine Heretic, John Alonge’s, Annual Wine Weekend September 3, 4 and 5, and local author John Rember’s Fireside Readings. These events may be enjoyed by overnight and dinner guests. Please call or visit our website for more information and schedules.

The entire Ranch (and all accommodations) can be reserved for exclusive events, reunions, weddings and private parties. Our “Meadow Site” is available for private gatherings throughout the summer.

Phone: 208.774.3544 Location: Stanley Hours: Seating Tuesday through Sunday 6 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Yes Beverages: Beer, wine Reservations: Encouraged Type of cuisine: Contemporary Northwest, European flair Service: Dine in Website: www.idahorocky.com

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 139

Rasberrys

Intimate retreat off the street

Sego Restaurant & Bar Local. Fresh. Handcrafted.

Whether you are seeking a quiet getaway place for lunch or are wanting to host an elegant gathering for friends, the Rasberrys’ two establishments in Ketchum’s 411 Building and Hailey at 315 South Main will meet and exceed your desires.

In the cozy Ketchum enclave with an antique and ethnic décor and the quaint Hailey deli, Callie and Maeme Rasberry have created two wonderful restaurants to delight their customers with fabulous and everchanging dishes.

The girls believe all the senses must be involved in meal preparation, therefore, the menu is eclectic, just like the chefs, with dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients when available and their own take on comfort and ethnic food. The Ketchum restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday, while Hailey is open for lunch Monday through Saturday. Both locations offer outdoor dining when weather permits. Their catering services are award-winning and they will de-stress your next catered event.

Boasting over 80 percent of menu ingredients from Idaho and a commitment to clean, quality food, the family at Sego Restaurant invites you to enjoy food in the fresh, handcrafted, made-here, Idaho sort of way.

With the mountains as a backdrop and the bounty of Idaho as inspiration, Chef Taite Pearson brings care, locality, freshness, and taste to your plate. Every item on his carefully created, seasonal menus is handcrafted in a bright, clean kitchen with hand-painted murals, an old school chalkboard, and tunes that vary from Pieta Brown to Mason Jennings. Hamburger meat is ground just before service, condiments are made in-house and fries are cut every afternoon. Bread is leavened there, pasta is handmade, and house-cured charcuterie is often on the menu. The only freezer in the kitchen is for ice cream and big trucks don’t deliver anything pre-made.

Each change in the season is reflected in Chef Pearson’s dishes, which are simple, comfortable, colorful and clean. Pomegranates and squash turn up in autumn. Lettuces and berries arrive in summer. Mushrooms and fava beans liven the spring menus. Winter brings roots and braising greens.

The Sego family invites you to join them in their beautiful space in downtown Ketchum. With warm booths, summer rooftop seating, big windows, soft lighting, and ever-changing artwork, whether you sit in the lounge or dining room, Sego proves to be the dining destination of Ketchum.

Enjoy a nine-ounce burger; a flatbread with smoked duck and pears; a bright salad or seasonal soup; hormone-free beef; a skillfully crafted fish dish; or an ever-evolving vegetarian dish. Eat your meal family-style, or enjoy a boutique, regional wine with a three-course meal. Treat yourself to a house-made dessert and a cup of Stumptown Coffee, or enjoy a night of the Sego Music Series. Belly up to the bar and they’ll pour you a regional draught beer or make you a specialty cocktail with fresh squeezed juices.

Whatever you like or whatever is on this season’s menu, Sego Restaurant welcomes you to their home.

Phone: 208.726.0606, Ketchum; 208.928.7711, Hailey Location: 411 5th St., Ketchum & 315 South Main St., Hailey Hours: Ketchum: Lunch, catering Mon-Fri. Hailey: Lunch, take out Mon-Sat. Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, gourmet teas and juices Reservations: Not required Type of cuisine: Delicious Service: Dine in, takeout, catering

Phone: 208.928.7878 Location: 131 N. Washington Avenue, Ketchum Hours: Tues-Sun, 6 p.m. to close Outdoor dining: Seasonal rooftop deck Beverages: Full bar, creative wine list, regional beers on tap Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Contemporary American Service: Bar and lounge, dining room, private room, catering, takeout Website: www. segorestaurantandbar.com

140 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Smoky Mountain Pizzeria Grill

Vintage Restaurant Delightfully distinguished

Fun place . . . seriously good food

Located in the heart of Ketchum, Smoky Mountain Pizzeria Grill is a comfortable, casual and dynamic family restaurant. We pride ourselves on a well-trained staff, attention to service and quality food. Our menu features unique pizzas and pastas enhanced with ingredients of varying cultures and cuisine. We also offer incredible salads, sandwiches, grilled steaks, hamburgers and desserts as well as an extensive beer and wine selection, a kid’s menu, catering and a fast, friendly delivery service. In addition to our extensive menu, you’ll always find an exciting selection of seasonal appetizers, entrées and desserts, as well as great lunch specials daily. Enjoy Smoky’s awesome patio dining for lunch or dinner.

Eclectic, upscale, peasant food.

Vintage Restaurant is proud to be primitive. If anyone can spin grass and berries into a platter of delights, Jeff Keys can. Along with wife Sheila, the couple produces a unique menu that changes daily with the whims of the owner/chef, the available produce and the freshness of the locally farmed seafood, meat and poultry.

“Vintage is not a machine-driven restaurant,” he says. “We don’t have the fanciest equipment. We have very little space. We are handmade in every sense of the word.”

Menu highlights include Delights of the Naked Stranger, rock shrimp tamales, crispy skin roast duckling, pecan crusted chicken and spicy Cajun oysters.

Housed in the restored historic Burt Cross cabin, Jeff and Sheila combined the best of their popular previous restaurants–Soupcón and Bellevue Bistro–to create Vintage.

The environment reflects his sensitivity to elegance and comfort.

A rustic and warm interior gives the visitor a cozy feeling as they await their meal.

Jeff says his creativity is guided by the ingredients he uses.

“The natural beauty and intrinsic value of the ingredients tell us what to do,” he says.

Those who want to attempt to replicate their experience at home, or at least do so vicariously, will enjoy perusing the recently published Vintage Restaurant: Handcrafted Cuisine from a Sun Valley Favorite.

Phone: 208.622.5625 Location: 200 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum Hours: Mon-Thurs 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri-Sat 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 12 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Encouraged for groups of 10 or more Type of cuisine: Pizza, pasta, grill menu including steaks and burgers, homemade soups and salads Service: Dine in, takeout, delivery Website: www.smokymountainpizza.com

Phone: 208.726.9595 Location: 231 Leadville Avenue, Ketchum Hours: 6 p.m. to closing Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Encouraged Type of cuisine: Eclectic world Service: Dine in

Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 141

Zaney’s River Street Coffee House The community gathering place

When is a coffee shop more than just a coffee shop?

When it’s Zaney’s River Street Coffee House. From the moment you walk into Zaney’s, you feel the difference. There is something more to this place. That something is the sense of community that pervades the little red house in downtown Hailey. People come here to take in the rich scents of house-roasted coffee beans and to get their daily jolt, but they find themselves lingering for conversation and debate. Zaney’s is an unofficial, sometimes unintended, gathering place. Perhaps it’s the comfort of knowing that the owner/coffee roaster Sue Martin has lived and raised her children in this Valley for over twenty years. Perhaps it is because Sue has the “best family and employee team in Hailey.” Certainly, the wholesome breakfast creations such as huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos and everyone’s favorite, the fried egg sandwich (with pesto mayo and bacon), help set the tone. For lunch and weekend brunch specials, you can expect to find daily chef’s creations utilizing Wood River Organics’ produce and seasonal finds from Hailey’s Farmers Market.

At its heart, Zaney’s was started with coffee and delicious food as its goals, but it has become something more. The inspiration behind this small shop on River Street came from Zane, Sue’s youngest son who had started a career as a connoisseur coffee roaster and international bean purchaser. Zane was adamant about finding the best quality beans from the most respectable plantations and using wellresearched methods for roasting. Sadly, Zane had a fatal motorcycle crash two years after opening the business with his mom. However, Zane’s inspiration lives on and his memory is honored by the hum of espresso machines and in the customers’ lively conversations.

If you haven’t already experienced Zaney’s, come by and learn why the locals who care about coffee and community, care about Zaney’s.

Photo: five B studios

Phone: 208.788.2062 Location: 208 N. River Street, Hailey Hours: Weekdays 6 a.m. to 4 p.m., Weekends 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Coffee, tea, smoothies, Italian sodas Reservations: Not required Type of cuisine: Coffeehouse and café Service: Dine in, takeout 142 sunvalleymag.com | Summer 2011

Zou 75

More than great sushi . . .

There’s something for everyone!

Rediscover this Main Street gem in downtown Hailey! Zou 75 is your destination for more than great Asian fusion, sushi and seafood selections. Featuring an addition with the same warm, contemporary feel, this casually elegant restaurant boasts an upscale martini/wine bar and 35 additional dining seats. The vast Pacific Rim menu features all the great dishes you’ve come to know and love and a whole lot more. With fresh fish flown in several times a week straight from Honolulu, Hawaii, you can always count on the best in quality and freshness. Don’t miss the lightly seared, crispy, panko-encrusted ahi tuna appetizer, the Zou 75 signature baked scallops, or the ahi tuna tartar on crispy wonton chips. The sushi selection is second to none, showcasing delicious unique rolls, both cooked and uncooked, as well as the famous thinly sliced sashimi tetaki. Not in the mood for fish? Not to worry! Start with the dynamite tempura green beans, crispy duck spring rolls or curried pork potstickers. From there, it’s on to the organic Niman Ranch® flat iron steak over wasabi mashed potatoes or the Miso Glazed Salmon over rice and organic vegetables, all while sipping a Pomegranate Cosmopolitan.

There’s always an owner on site and with a martini/wine bar, two private rooms and take-out party platters of all sizes, Zou 75 is the perfect choice for your next dining event.

Phone: 208.788.3310 Location: 416 N. Main Street, Hailey Hours: Monday-Saturday, 5 p.m.

Beverages: Beer, wine, sake, full bar Reservations: Encouraged Type of cuisine: Pacific Rim Service: Dine in, take out Website: www.zou75.com

Sun Valley Harvest Festival

DINING IN SUN VALLEY

September 23-25, 2011

Become a fan of Sun Valley Dining for local dining updates and great deals!

Online Giveaway: $100 Gift Certificate to your favorite Restaurant.

Don’t wait! Enter today! www.sunvalleymag.com

photo: paulette philpot

www.sunvalley-dining.com

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Restaurant Walk – Kick-off the weekend of events Friday evening at the new Ketchum Town Square with Frenchman’s Gulch Winery before setting off around downtown Ketchum to sample food, wine and beer from participating restaurants and caterers. Sponsored by Sysco Idaho. Admission is $25.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Cooking Demonstrations & Chef Presentations – Saturday at Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge, local, regional and visiting chefs will prepare local foods while sharing their chefs secrets and special cooking techniques. Admission is $15.

Get tasty recipes, view local restaurant reviews and read stories from the kitchen on our weekly food Blog, YUM.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Market Place – All day Saturday inside Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge, visit local purveyors of organic and regional foods, retailers with green kitchen appliances and designs, and much more. Admission is free.

yum

a blog about food

www.sunvalley-dining.com know before you go!

resTAurant listings & Maps ONLINE MENUS

•

CHEF PROFILES

cooking tips presented by

•

recipes

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Caviar and Martini Party – Saturday at 5:30 p.m. at SEGO Restaurant enjoy artisanal cocktails made with locally produced Square One Organic Vodka along with appetizers masterfully designed to showcase Idaho’s local caviar. Admission is $50.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Dinners – Saturday evening participating restaurants throughout the Wood River Valley will prepare their own interpretation of an Idaho Harvest Dinner. Reservations recommended.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival River Guide Cooking Competition – Sunday at 10 a.m. at Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge, four Idaho River Companies will compete for the honor of Idaho River’s Top Cook.

Sponsored by Plum TV and Snake River Farms. Admission is free.

Sun Valley Harvest Festival Grand Tasting – Sunday at noon join us inside Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge to sample food prepared by local chefs and caters and grown by local farmers and producers.

Also sample wines from around Idaho and the Northwest as well as local brews and distilled spirits. Benefits the Idaho Make-A-Wish Foundation. Wines available for purchase through the Harvest Wine Cellar. Admission is $50.

Phone: 208.450.6430 Website: www.sunvalleyharvestfestival.com Summer 2011 | sunvalleymag.com 143

Galleries & restaurants // chart

Restaurant Location

208.622.3832 www.thecellarpub.com

American Pubfare

230 Walnut Avenue, Ketchum

208.727.1800 www.cirosunvalley.com

Seasonal menu using local producers; woodburning oven; family friendly

147

320 S. Main Street, Hailey

208.788.1223

Regional Northwest

138

211 Main Street, Ketchum

208.928.7777

Urban Western Cuisine

520 2nd Street East, Ketchum 220 N. East Ave Ketchum

208.726.4499

Casual European Bakery, catering, and take-away

208.928.7703 www.dashisunvalley.com

291 E. 6th Street, Ketchum

208.726.1301 www.globus-restaurant.com

Gourmet Asian

380 Washington Avenue, #105, Ketchum

208.725.0314

Live Food Café

Stanley

208.774.3544 www.idahorocky.com

480 N. Washington Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.7776

Italian

CIRO restaurant & wine bar CK’s Real Food Cornerstone Bar & Grill Cristina’s Restaurant & Bakery dashi Globus

Idaho Rocky Mtn. Ranch iL Naso

Page Number

400 E. Sun Valley Road, Ketchum

The Cellar Pub

GLOW Live Food Café

Contact Cuisine

Modern Asian/ New American

Contemporary Northwest/ European Flair

147

148 148 138 149 139 139

149

Ketchum Grill

520 East Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.4660 www.ketchumgrill.com

New American with an Idaho emphasis

150

The Kneadery

260 N. Leadville Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.9462

Idaho American

150

Michel’s Christiania

303 Walnut Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.3388

Traditional French

151

Pioneer Saloon

320 N. Main Street, Ketchum

208.726.3139

American Steakhouse

Sun Valley Inn

208.622.2225 Reservations: 208.622.2800

European American

The Ram

411 5th Street, Ketchum 315 S. Main Street, Hailey

Rasberrys

208.726.0606-Ketchum 208.928.7711-Hailey

151 152

Delicious

140

Riccabona’s

380 N. 1st Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.1166

Fine dining with a Mediterranean flair

152

Roosevelt Grille

280 N. Main Street, Ketchum

208.726.0051 www.rooseveltgrille.com

American bistro and steakhouse

153

Sawtooth Club

231 N. Main Street, Ketchum

208.726.5233 www.sawtoothclub.com

Creative American dining/casual bar

153

SEGO Restaurant & Bar

131 N. Washington Avenue, Ketchum

208.928-7878 www. segorestaurantandbar.com

200 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum

208.622.5625 www.smokymountainpizza.com

Smoky Mountain Pizzeria Grill

Contemporary American Pizza, pasta, grill menu including steaks, burgers, homemade soups and salads

140 141

Sushi on Second

260 Second Street, Ketchum

208.726.5181 www.sushionsecond.com

Asian Fusion

Trail Creek Cabin

Sun Valley Resort Trail Creek Road

208.622.2135 www.sunvalley.com

Western

154

231 Leadville Avenue, Ketchum

208.726.9595

Eclectic World

141

Zaney’s River Street Coffee House

208 N. River Street, Hailey

208.788.2062

Coffee House/Cafe

142

Zou 75

416 N. Main Street, Hailey

208.788.3310 www. zou75.com

Pacific Rim

142

Vintage Restaurant

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154

View listings in the Wood River Fine Dining Guide and at www.woodriverfinedining.com

Fine Dining Wood River

www.woodriverfinedining.com

Volume 4, 2011

www.woodriverfinedining.com

If I were going to simplify life to its most basic, I would break it down

into two camps: those who eat to live and those who live to eat. I know with which camp my allegiance lies. Of all of the influences throughout the ages that have contributed to the success of man, food has probably been the most…satisfying and not just because our taste buds say so. Food is experience. Food is art. Food is life. Food, as my kids well know, is family.

The Wood River Fine Dining Association is all about family. We are a family of restaurants, individual business owners and chefs who began with the modest philosophy—to make every dining experience the best possible for every customer and to promote and grow the Wood River Valley as a culinary destination. The sixteen restaurants represented in this guide are the best of the best. We are committed to culinary excellence. We believe in using the freshest local and sustainable products available and fully support each of our local farmers and growers. We believe that you, our customers, are the most important part of this endeavor, and so it is our highest aspiration to honor you with a remarkable and memorable experience when you honor us by choosing to dine with us.

Each of the restaurants included in the Wood River Fine Dining Guide also plays a key role in the Wood River Valley community, each participating in numerous philanthropic, non-profit and community fundraisers. We also work to promote our Valley as a premier dining destination by hosting special events like the Food and Wine Festival and the Sun Valley Center for the Arts Wine Auction. We hope that by working together like a family, we bring another reason for you to visit and live in this beautiful place, which we are so fortunate to call our home.

Sincerely,

The Cellar Pub, CIRO restaurant and wine bar, Cornerstone Bar & Grill, Cristina’s Restaurant & Bakery, Globus, il Naso, Ketchum Grill, The Kneadery, Michel’s Christiana, Pioneer Saloon, Riccabona’s, Roosevelt Grille, Sawtooth Club, The Ram, Trail Creek Cabin, Sushi on Second

Cover Art: Ann Yoder. More of Ann Yoder’s work available at Green Antelope Gallery in Bellevue.

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The Cellar Pub Where Valley folks say “cheers!”

The Cellar Pub, boasting the Valley’s best fish and chips, is nestled below Sun Valley Road, just a stone’s throw from Main Street. Reminiscent of the legendary Cheers bar, where everybody knows your name, The Cellar Pub is a favorite with locals seeking the perfect après-ski atmosphere. It provides a convenient venue for catching up with friends, old and new.

The Cellar Pub features traditional pub fare, in addition to its more unique entrées. The beloved bangers and mash, flat iron steak salad, and lamb or Kobe sliders are just a few examples.

The variety of cuisine is sure to please every appetite. In addition to the menu favorites, The Cellar Pub offers its patrons a full bar and features a selection of draft beers, fine wines and spirits from around the globe.

Bigger than a nook, yet intimate and cozy, The Cellar Pub is a warm and inviting pub that ensures fun times with every visit.

It also offers the competitor in all of us a venue to cheer for your favorite team, or to challenge friends to a game of shuff leboard.

Run by pillars of the Ketchum food service community, The Cellar Pub is owned and managed by a team of local all-stars. They include Paige and Roger from Sushi on Second, Bob from Warm Springs Ranch Restaurant and Kristin, long-time manager of Whiskey Jacques’. This family-like group pays close attention to quality service and the overall experience for every visitor to The Cellar Pub.

Phone: 208.622.3832 Location: 400 E. Sun Valley Road, Ketchum Hours: Open daily, 4 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Full bar, beer, wine, shots Reservations: Not accepted Type of cuisine: American Service: Dine in, takeout Website: www.thecellarpub.com

CIRO restaurant & wine bar market & wine merchants Good food for all

photo: paulette philpot

Wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and wine list rival any you’ d find in the big city.—Sunset Magazine CIRO restaurant & wine bar is a Valley favorite for casual, affordable, fine dining. A seasonally inspired menu satisfies the most discerning to the simplest diner, using as much natural, local and organic product as possible. Exceptional daily specials, seafood, crispy pizzas, entrée salads, and CIRO desserts, ice creams and sorbets are stand-outs. An extensive and very reasonably priced wine list offers 25 choices by the glass, 100 by the bottle.

Attentive and amiable staff and gracious proprietors, Tracey and Mark Caraluzzi, impart a warm and engaging experience—chic, modern-alpine design, mountain views, glowing pizza oven, and an open-kitchen set the stage. Bistro tables, signature breadstick festooned marble bar, and rustic limestone fireplace provides an inviting space to ‘uncork & unwind’ with friends or, comfortably, as a single.

Voted ‘Best Wine Bar’ and listed in Sunset Magazine’s ‘Where to Eat & Drink’ when visiting the Sun Valley area.

CIRO market & wine merchants offers an array of freshly prepared food, deli sandwiches, soups, “Best Cheese Selection in the Valley,” specialty grocery, beautiful gift baskets, and a well-priced, hand-chosen wine selection with something for everyone, and any wallet. Open table and sofa seating makes this a hip, casual place to meet, with evening live music, small plates and wine service seasonally. Don’t miss free wine and cheese tasting Wednesdays, 4-6 p.m., and NEW wine & food classes.

CIRO catering offers full-service catering for parties large or small, from picnics to weddings.

Phone: Restaurant: 208.727.1800, Market: 208.622.4400 Location: 230 Walnut Avenue, Ketchum Hours: Restaurant: Mon-Fri, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Mon-Sun, open 5:30 p.m. • Market: please call for hours Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Extensive wine list, organic beer, soft drinks Type of cuisine: Seasonal, contemporary Italian Service: Catering, deli, takeout, wine store Website: www.cirosunvalley.com

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Cornerstone Bar & Grill Urban Western cuisine

It’s wild west meets haute cuisine at the Cornerstone Bar and Grill. Longtime locals, Meg and Erik Vorm, welcome you to a Main Street venue as stimulating to the eye as it is to the taste buds.

Recipient of the prestigious AIA Honor Award 2010, the Cornerstone (built in 1884) remains the only building in Ketchum listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Inside its modern décor, you’ll enjoy a seasonally changing array of game, seafood and vegetable dishes, complemented by Jan Hegewald’s handcrafted cocktails and a list of beer and wine that’s both familiar and eclectic.

It’s a local twist on the city-style grill, with an open kitchen featuring buffalo strip loin encrusted with coffee and cocoa nibs, wild salmon on lemon risotto, and the famous mac and cheese. Regular items also include vegan and gluten-free dishes and a better than you’d expect children’s menu, all with a Main Street price point, so there really is something for everyone.

Call to reserve the Mafia table downstairs in the intimate stone-walled grotto, or watch the action from above in the spacious skybox surrounded by historic bricks fired in old Ketchum, or make a night of it in the bustling main-level bar with its comfortable banquette and Main Street watcher booth. Check out the guest bartender every Wednesday and bring the kids for Happy Hour Playdate in the skybox. Watch the calendar for Pirate Night, Abba vs. The BeeGees, and Use Your Words: an original poetry, prose and music event, and other themed party nights.

The Cornerstone Bar & Grill always serves up a night to remember, making it the new Ketchum tradition. photo: paulette philpot

Phone: 208.928.7777 Location: 211 Main Street, Ketchum Hours: Bar, 4 p.m. to midnight; Dining: 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., nightly Beverages: Full bar, excellent wine list, favorite beers Reservations: Recommended Type of Cuisine: Innovative American with French blessing Service: Bar, dining, above-average children’s menu, private parties Website: www.cbgketchum.com

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Cristina’s Restaurant and Bakery European-style trattoria and pasticceria

For 19 years, Cristina’s Restaurant and Bakery has been serving up a delicious array of seasonally-inspired recipes for a devoted clientele who come to the charming, salmon-colored house in Ketchum to enjoy the company of friends, good conversation and satisfying food.

“Food is really about people and friendship,” says Cristina. “In Tuscany, it’s not just about the food. We sit at the table for four hours, but we don’t eat for four hours. We talk, we laugh, we cry.”

From her signature soups to her freshly baked breads and breakfast pastries, everything Cristina offers in this cozy, European-style trattoria is steeped in her Tuscan heritage. Choose from traditional Tuscan recipes such as Scampi al Dragoncello, Tortellini in Brodo, and Zuppa di Farro, along with homemade pastas, fresh salads, thin crust pizzas and a variety of daily specials. And don’t forget the deli, which overflows with a tantalizing assortment of hot and cold entrées, salads, appetizers and imported and domestic cheeses, salami and olives.

Cristina’s two cookbooks, Cristina’s of Sun Valley and Cristina’s Tuscan Table, have garnered raves from sophisticated reviewers to legions of local regulars. Cristina’s Tuscan Table was selected as one of Food & Wine Magazine’s favorite 25 cookbooks of the year and appeared in their annual Best of the Best cookbook in 2008. All the cookbooks are available at the restaurant.

If you dream about the perfect meal, you can find it by following Cristina into the pages of her books or . . . you can come to Cristina’s Restaurant. As Cristina says, “At my table, there is room for everyone!”

Phone: 208.726.4499 Location: 520 2nd Street East, Ketchum Hours: Breakfast, Mon-Sat, 7 a.m. to 11 a.m.

Lunch, Mon-Sat, 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Sunday Brunch, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal, plus sunroom dining Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Casual European Service: Dine in, takeout, bakery, private dinners

Globus

Gourmet Asian fusion with a twist

il Naso A taste of Italy

There are some restaurants where the menu itself is a feast.

How does fried Black Pepper Calamari sound? Or Stuffed Ahi Tuna Roll, with Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Sesame Soy Vinaigrette and Wasabi? Try Organic Mushroom Spring Rolls with Lemongrass, Chilies and a Ginger Emulsion. For entrées, try the Ginger Crusted Black Cod with Israeli Couscous, Shaved Brussel Sprouts, Shemiji Mushrooms and Carrot Broth. Or try the Natural Local Pork Baby Back Ribs with their special Honey Barbecue Sauce.

Finish the meal with one of their house-made desserts or ice creams.To fully appreciate the range of offerings that Executive Chef Tyler Stokes invents, one should frequent Globus at the very least a few times each season as the menu changes with the leaves.

Owner Wendy Muir says Stokes is creative, innovative, enthusiastic,and passionate—adjectives that shine through the dishes of organic vegetables and natural meats. Sous Chef Ryan Stadelman is a great complement to Chef Stokes.

There’s a wide selection of imported beers and a boutique-style wine list that certified Sommelier Robert Jensen helped to create.

Heading into its 19th year, Globus has a loyal following and is a favorite of anyone who appreciates an eclectic menu.

Hint: According to the Food Network’s Rachel Ray, the calamari here is the “best on the planet.” Indulge yourself online at www.globus-restaurant.com, where lovely photos of this gourmet Asian restaurant’s welcome exterior and graceful interior are accompanied by mouth-watering descriptions of the offerings.

photo: paulette philpot

Phone: 208.726.1301 Location: 291 E. 6th, Ketchum Hours: Winter, 5:30 p.m. daily; Summer, 6 p.m. daily.

Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, sake, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Gourmet Asian Service: Dine in, takeout, kids’ menu, catering Website: www.globus-restaurant.com

This urbane restaurant with gourmet Italian fare is special whether you drop by après-ski to dine at the bar, enjoy the candlelit dining room to persuade romance, or to celebrate a special occasion. il Naso pleases on every level.

Owners Alyson and Shawn Tierney insist on an environment that is as aesthetically pleasing as their fare. The restaurant is visually appealing for its glow at dusk, and the smells of herbs and garlic lure you in where you will find meals that are fresh, organic and comprised of local ingredients.

Enjoy calamari, veal scallopini, spaghetti and meatballs, homemade ravioli and nightly fresh fish specials and risotto made daily by Executive Chef Kate Metzger.

The wine list is extensive, and the knowledgeable staff will help you choose just the right bottle to make the experience complete.

Phone: 208.726.7776 Location: 480 N. Washington Avenue, Ketchum Hours: 6 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Italian Service: Dine in, takeout

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Ketchum Grill

Among the best ski restaurants in America

The Kneadery

Best breakfast in the Northern Rockies

If you want to dine next to a celebrity, best get a reservation at the restaurant run by Ketchum’s celebrity chef. That would be Scott Mason, whose Ketchum Grill is in one of the charming old houses left standing in the face of demand for grand accommodations.

And the bonus is the fabulous food, featuring Mason’s famous innovations, ultra-fresh ingredients and service that combine to earn Ketchum Grill a nod as one of the eight best ski-town restaurants in America by Snow Country Magazine.

The cuisine is “New American, with Idaho emphasis,” which means such entrées as Grilled Black Canyon Idaho Elk, Braised Idaho Lamb Shank and Duck with Mountain Huckleberries.

Mason and his wife Anne (pastry chef for the restaurant) are supporters of the movement to promote local, seasonal food, with a dedication to healthy, natural and homemade. There is an excellent wine list, as well.

The boyishly handsome Mason is usually seeing to the fish, the steaks, all the great stuff that comes out of the kitchen. But on occasion he’ll come out to meet and greet. Asked what celebrity customer made the Masons know they had “made it,” they replied: “Lance Armstrong. But JFK Jr. was a regular in his day.” Oh, did we forget to mention Mason bikes to work most days, even in the winter?

photo: five b studios

photo: adelaide mason

Phone: 208.726.4660 Location: 520 East Avenue, Ketchum Hours: 5:00 p.m. to 10-ish nightly Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended at www.ketchumgrill.com Type of cuisine: New American with Idaho emphasis Service: Dine in, takeout, kids’ menu, catering Website: www.ketchumgrill.com

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The Kneadery has been the local’s and visitor’s favorite spot for breakfast and lunch for over 30 years. Established in 1975, this establishment combines wholesome fresh food with a rustic Idaho atmosphere.

Whether you’re headed out for a day of hiking, or spent the morning skiing the slopes, you’ll want to fuel up with a wholesome nutritious meal at The Kneadery.

All meals start with the freshest ingredients—locally baked organic breads, fresh whipped eggs, seasonal fruit and top quality meats. From the huge omletes and pancakes, to the fresh salads and burgers, there’s something for everyone.

Great food is just the beginning at The Kneadery. Service with a smile and the authentic décor complete the package. Owners Duffy and Sheila Witmer have been collecting the Western artwork that has filled The Kneadery and The Pioneer Saloon for decades.

Come see why so many have made The Kneadery Ketchum’s best restaurant for breakfast for 15 years.

Phone: 208.726.9462 Location: 260 N. Leadville Avenue, Ketchum Hours: 8:00 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer and wine Reservations: Not accepted Type of cuisine: Idaho American Service: Dine in, takeout, kids’ menu, catering

Michel’s Christiania 1959 “The Christy” 2010

photo: paulette philpot

No other restaurant in Ketchum is as steeped in ski history as this one; 2009 marked its 50th anniversary.

On the walls are photographs from owner Michel Rudigoz’s time as coach to the U.S. Women’s Ski Team during the golden years when a number of Sun Valley locals made it to the Olympics. These include Christin Cooper, Abbi Fisher-Gould and Maria Maricich. Olympic Gold Medalist Picabo Street gave a signed pair of skis to adorn the place, as did Italian Champion Alberto Tomba. But you don’t have to be a ski aficionado to enjoy a meal here–Ernest Hemingway came so frequently he had his own table. Salmon with sorrel sauce, filet mignon with morels, lamb shank and fresh Idaho trout are just a few of the tantalizing entrées that keep locals and tourists coming back.

Idaho potatoes and Michel’s authentic French recipe make “pommes frites” an unforgettable treat! Homemade dessert selections include crème brulee, fresh fruit sorbets, profiteroles and tarte tatin.

Rudigoz, formerly of Lyon, France, has made Sun Valley his home since 1972 and the restaurant his creative expression since 1994. Every evening you will find him lighting candles from table to table in the dining room, warmly greeting guests. Drifting through the bar, he encourages patrons to enjoy a wide selection of classic specialty cocktails in the Olympic Bar’s warm, casual atmosphere. Of course, the full dining menu is available there as well. Executive Chef Laurent Loubot leads the culinary team at your service nightly.

Phone: 208.726.3388 Location: 303 Walnut Avenue, Ketchum Hours: Bar 4:45 p.m., dinner 6 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: Beautiful, seasonal patio dining Beverages: Beer, wine, full bar Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Traditional French Service: Dine in, bar service, private parties

Pioneer Saloon Old West meets new . . .

No visit to Ketchum is complete without a stop at the steakhouse affectionately known as “The Pio.” Owner Duffy Witmer has been working door to floor for 30 years to make sure everyone who comes into his saloon has a memorable meal.

Prime rib, steaks, fresh seafood, ribs­—you won’t leave unsatisfied.

The Pio is typical of an earlier Idaho when ore wagons rattled down Main Street and business was done with a handshake over a beer. An interior décor of natural woods, mounted game and period firearms helps create an authentic saloon atmosphere.

You can stop in for a drink at the cowboy bar any night and choose from a wide variety of beers, wines and liquors. Mosey on in to the dining room where most seats give you a view of a busy kitchen cranking out delicious, tender beef, grilled trout and overstuffed Idaho bakers.

The Pioneer Saloon sits in the heart of Ketchum, the gateway to the Sawtooths and a mile from Sun Valley, the oldest and most elegant ski resort in America. The surrounding area is a recreation-lover’s paradise year-round and, since 1950, The Pioneer has become a traditional stop.

This is the place for tourists, locals and anyone with a big appetite for history and great food.

“If you haven’t been to The Pio,” says Duffy, “you haven’t been to Ketchum.”

photo: paulette philpot

Phone: 208.726.3139 Location: 320 N. Main Street, Ketchum Hours: 5:30 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: No Beverages: Beer, wine, full bar Reservations: Not accepted Type of cuisine: American steakhouse Service: Dine in Website: www.pioneersaloon.com

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Hillside Restaurant

...where fine dining is a work of art!

The Ram

Expertly prepared meals that entice all guests Authentic, casual, yet undeniably sophisticated, The Ram Restaurant is the perfect blend of pioneer Idaho in its décor and pioneering chefs in its fare. It’s the expertly prepared meals that entice guests to this storied restaurant, said to have been one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorites.

Adding to The Ram’s ambiance, longtime local entertainer Larry Harshbarger is open to play your requests on a baby grand as you enjoy an appetizer of escargot or share the alpine favorite, a Gruyere or Emmental cheese fondue. Anything you want to drink can most likely be found at The Ram’s full-service bar.

Enjoy a bottle of wine as your feast continues with a repertoire of Idaho lamb, trout, steaks or fresh seafood. Save room to enjoy a dreamy dessert and after-dinner coffees.

After dinner, you can extend this European experience with a stroll around the village shops, or by taking in a summer concert at the Sun Valley Pavilion.

Phone: 208.622.2225; reservations at 208.622.2800 Location: Sun Valley Village Hours: 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. nightly (closed Wednesdays) Outdoor Dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, full bar Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: European and American Service: Dine in

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Riccabona’s

Where fine dining is a work of art . . .

Located in a cozy log cabin in the heart of Ketchum, Riccabona’s offers an elaborate, yet refined, menu presenting wild salmon, lamb, veal, steak and seafood dishes prepared with a Mediterranean flair. The food quality and presentation are spectacular, the service is superb, and the setting of both the main and private dining rooms is romantic and January 24, 2007 elegant, with fresh-cut flowers, intimate candlelit tables and original works of art adorning the walls.

Cocktail Party 6:30–7:30 “We have taken great care in designing our menu to offer an excepDining tional dining experience,”Private says proprietor Steve7:30 Riccabona, “and the menu features many local favorites, including our famous Wienerschnitzel with Featuring Snake River Farms Kobe Beef Tenderloin Lingonberries and Spaetzle and pesto-crusted Rack of Lamb.” call forappetizers more detailed information reservations Some ofPlease the popular include Oysters,and Crab Cakes, Sautéed 208-726-1166 Calamari Strips and Baked Escargot. The entrée menu also includes several fresh seafood entrées including Halibut prepared en Papillote, Wild AlasFelix’s Hillside Restaurant 380 First Avenue North Ketchum, ID 83340 kan Salmon with Blackberry Sauce and Risotto, and delicious Pan-Seared Sea Scallops with Black Trumpet Mushrooms with Citrus Beurre Blanc and Risotto.

The chefs regularly prepare special soups, salads and entrées. In addition to dinner service, Riccabona’s is open for lunch on a seasonal basis and is famous for a number of open-faced sandwiches and salads. The open-faced Beef Tenderloin with avocado, arugula and applewood bacon is garnished with an original Italian pesto drizzle, and the calamari sandwich with a San Franciscostyle Louie dressing.

To complement any entrée selection, Riccabona’s provides a vast array of fine wines. The wine cellar includes boutique wines and bottles from some of the most famous wineries of the Pacific Northwest, California, Italy and France.

Riccabona’s offers an elegant and intimate atmosphere for private parties and special events. During summer, the garden patios expand the seating capacity and provide spectacular mountain views for a cocktail party or group dinners. The staff of Riccabona’s is also available for private parties and catering, or preparing dinner in your home. You haven’t experienced the charm of Ketchum/Sun Valley until you’ve dined with Steve and Victoria Riccabona.

Join us for a special and unique dining experience

Phone: 208.726.1166 Location: 380 N. 1st Ave, Ketchum Hours: Lunch served seasonally—call for hours. Dinner, 6 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: Summer Beverages: Beer and wine Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Fine dining with a Mediterranean flair Service: Dine in, takeout, private banquet room, catering Website: www.riccabonas.com

Roosevelt Grille

Classic ski town restaurant and bar Tom Nickel already had a successful endeavor on Ketchum’s Main Street, so for his second offering to the downtown dining scene, he went back to the well and created the wonderful and always original Roosevelt Grille.

Fourteen years later, this popular establishment appeals equally to both locals and tourists with an enticing menu, professional staff and comfortable vibe. Guests can enjoy an ice-cold brew at the popular bar, relax with a cocktail around the cozy fireplace, or settle into a comfy booth for a superb dinner where they will have the very tough job of choosing from the eclectic menu that Nickel characterizes as “creative interpretations of classic bistro fare.”

“We’re inspired by our guests, our staff, our personal travel and our colleagues from other restaurants to keep the menu fresh, varied and interesting. And increasingly we recognize the need to offer food that is healthy and to source it from close to home. All of our beef is hormone and antibiotic free from a family of ranches in Idaho and Oregon. And we’re working hard to serve only sustainably harvested seafood,” Nickel explains.

Customer favorites include the Pan Broiled Ruby Red Trout, Grilled Flat Iron Steak brushed with savory béarnaise butter, Seared Alaskan Sea Scallops with jalapeño-cream sauce, New Orleans-Style Shrimp and Sausage Jambalaya, Braised Idaho Lamb Shank with Pinot Noir reduction and Honey-Glazed Chicken basted with soy, ginger and orange zest. And their extensive bar menu serves up the best burgers and small pizzas in town!

Whether your outing means enjoying a bowl of homemade soup by the fire, a quick brew at the bar or a special dinner with friends, this place is not to be missed. The Roosevelt . . . Ketchum’s classic ski-town restaurant and bar and the local’s favorite for more than 14 years!

Phone: 208.726.0051 Location: 280 N. Main Street, Ketchum Hours: Bar and dining room at 5 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: Rooftop deck Beverages: Beer, wine, full bar Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: American bistro and steakhouse Service: Dine in, takeout, kids’ menu, private banquet room Website: www.rooseveltgrille.com

Sawtooth Club Downtown Ketchum at its best

Whether window shopping, gallery hopping or just gathering to meet good friends, The Sawtooth Club, a mainstay in Ketchum’s downtown scene, has been a Valley favorite for more than 24 years. Always busy with a great mix of locals and visitors, The Sawtooth Club offers a unique blend of American steakhouse classics and fresh seafood and pastas, all prepared with their signature creative flair.

“Our mesquite-wood fire generates the tremendous heat which sears in the natural flavors and juices and imparts a variety of subtle tastes and aromas to whatever we’re cooking,” explains owner Tom Nickel.

From the Mesquite-Grilled Ribeye Steak brushed with smoked chipotle reduction to the superb Chicken Senegalese, their famous Rack of Spring Lamb, Flame-Broiled Breast of Duck or the WoodGrilled Pork Tenderloin, everything on this irresistible menu is distinctive and delicious. One taste and you’ll know why—in five different years a local readers’ poll has recognized The Sawtooth Club as the “Valley’s Best Overall Restaurant.”

After dinner, or all on its own, the long and welcoming bar, cozy fireside couches and eclectic “café menu” make The Sawtooth Club’s bar just about the most popular watering hole in town. Here you can relax around the large central fireplace and enjoy an order of their amazing fresh steamer clams or delicious spring rolls with one of 20 wines by the glass or 10 international microbrews on tap. The Sawtooth Club really does have everything you could ever want for your night on the town. Don’t miss it. The Sawtooth Club . . . Still and always, this is downtown Ketchum at its best!

Phone: 208.726.5233 Location: 231 N. Main Street, Ketchum Hours: Bar, 4:30 p.m.; dining room, 5:30 p.m nightly Outdoor dining: Seasonal Beverages: Beer, wine, full bar Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Creative American dining/casual bar Service: Dine in, takeout, kids’ menu Website: www.sawtoothclub.com

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Sushi on Second Modern global cuisine

Sushi on Second is second-to-none in Ketchum for creating a magical evening of food, friends and fun. Established in 1994, it is the Valley’s oldest sushi restaurant. But don’t let age fool you. Head Sushi Chefs Zack Venzon and Cuyler Swindley are at the center of a talented crew of young sushi chefs that delight in creating dishes that are as appetizing to look at as they are to eat, like their famous, “Who’s your Daddy” roll.

See why Bon Appétit Magazine wrote, “Sushi on Second, the best sushi I’ve had in years.”

The menu consists of global cuisine mixed with a healthy dose of Northwest experimentalism that creates a truly unique culinary experience. Chefs John Rust and Ashley Weber are behind their nightly specials, which keep local diners coming back, often twice a week. Be sure to try the sushi, of course, but some of John and Ashley’s current creative dishes include a white wine chili poached Sea Bass topped with lemon cucumber & organic Idaho peach relish over coconut curry risotto, Idaho Kobe beef Carpaccio, Soy ginger glazed Ahi Tuna with fresh Idaho berries & tomatoes over arugula with wasabi vinaigrette, Grilled wild Alaskan Salmon over shiitake mushrooms, spinach rice pilaf with lemon caper sauce & grilled Idaho organic eggplant, and Spicy Thai lobster soup with glass noodles, to name a few.

The full wine, champagne, beer and sake bar is fitted with a flatscreen television to see the latest scores, snow and fishing reports. But whether you are sitting in one of the two private, screened tatami rooms or at the 20-seat sushi bar itself, all eyes in the restaurant invariably wind up on the sushi chefs. Knives a-blur, they chop and slice the finest seafood available, which is flown in fresh from locations such as Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji and Japan by their own seafood import company, Idaho Seafood. Come in and taste why Sushi on Second has been consistently over the years voted Ketchum’s best restaurant for sushi and seafood. To take a virtual tour of the restaurant or to check out our full menu, please go to www.sushionsecond.com.

Phone: 208.726.5181 Location: 260 Second Street, Ketchum Hours: 5:30 p.m. nightly Outdoor dining: No Beverages: Wine, beer, sake, soft drinks Reservations: Recommended Type of cuisine: Asian fusion Service: Dine in, takeout Website: www.sushionsecond.com

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Trail Creek Cabin

An unforgettable experience that inspires tradition

What can be more romantic than dinner under the pines at a candlelit, 75-year-old rustic cabin with a roaring fire, roaming accordionist and a hearty meal? The unparalleled ambience and offerings of Trail Creek Cabin are so unique that even locals make the trek an annual family tradition. Some guests come by bike or foot along a meandering trail, while those who prefer four wheels can easily gain access to the cabin, located just a short drive from the Sun Valley Lodge.

Once seated in the cabin, diners can relax with a drink from the full bar. Enjoy a refreshing cocktail while studying the menu, which offers a wide array of Western-style fare. Start with a fresh summer salad, then choose from a varied menu that includes wild game—appropriate for the cabin, which once hosted author Ernest Hemingway—Idaho mountain trout, steaks and ribs.

During the warmer months, sit outside and cool off on one of our two decks above Trail Creek. Enjoy a summer cocktail from the outdoor bar and dinner at sunset.

Dinner reservations should be made well in advance. The cabin grounds are available for special functions and now offer summer dining as well. No matter how you get there, get there for an unforgettable experience that could become your tradition.

Phone: 208.622.2800 Dinner Reservations: 208.622.2135 Location: 1.5 miles east of the Sun Valley Lodge, Trail Creek Road (1/2 mile past the Sun Valley Club) Hours: Tues-Sat, Bar 5 p.m; Dinner 5:30 p.m to 10 p.m Beverages: Wine, beer, full bar Reservations: Appreciated Type of cuisine: Western Service: Dine in

Restaurant

Contact

Cuisine

The Cellar Pub 400 E. Sun Valley Rd., Ketchum

208.622.3832 thecellarpub.com

American

CIRO Restaurant & Wine Bar 230 Walnut Ave., Ketchum

208.727.1800 cirosunvalley.com

Cornerstone Bar & Grill

Location

Seasonal menu using local producers; woodburning oven; family friendly

211 Main St., Ketchum

208.928.7777

Cristina’s Restaurant & Bakery 520 2nd St E., Ketchum

208.726.4499

Globus 291 E. 6th St., Ketchum

208.726.1301 globus-restaurant.com

Gourmet Asian

208.726.7776

Italian

208.726.4660 ketchumgrill.com

New American with Idaho emphasis

260 N. Leadville Ave., Ketchum

208.726.9462

Idaho American

309 Walnut Ave., Ketchum

208.726.3388

Traditional French

208.726.3139 pioneersaloon.com

American steakhouse

iL Naso

480 N. Washington Ave., Ketchum

Ketchum Grill 520 East Ave., Ketchum

The Kneadery Michel’s Christiania

Pioneer Saloon 320 N. Main St., Ketchum

Urban Western Cuisine

The Ram Sun Valley Village 208.622.2225

Riccabona’s 380 N. 1st Ave., Ketchum 208.726.1166

Casual European bakery, catering, and take-away

European and American Fine dining with a Mediterranean flair

Roosevelt Grille 280 N. Main St., Ketchum

208.726.0051 rooseveltgrille.com

Sawtooth Club 231 N. Main St., Ketchum

208.726.5233 sawtoothclub.com

Creative American dining/casual bar

Sushi on Second 260 Second St., Ketchum

208.726.5181 sushionsecond.com

Asian fusion

208.622.2800

Western

Trail Creek Cabin

1.5 miles east of the Sun Valley Lodge

American bistro and steakhouse

K P

Ketchum

G I

E F

L

J M N C O

A H

B D

A

The Cellar Pub 400 E. Sun Valley Rd.

B

CIRO 230 Walnut Ave.

C

Cornerstone Bar and Grill 211 N. Main St.

D

Cristina’s 520 2nd St. E.

E

Globus 291 E. 6th St.

F

il Naso 480 N. Washington Ave.

G

Ketchum Grill 520 East Ave.

I

Michel’s Christiania 303 Walnut Ave.

J

Pioneer Saloon 320 N. Main St.

H

The Kneadery 260 N. Leadville Ave.

K The Ram Sun Valley Village L

Riccabona’s 380 N. 1st Ave.

M

Roosevelt Grille 280 N. Main St.

O

Sushi on Second 260 Second St.

N

P

Sawtooth Club 231 N. Main St.

Trail Creek Cabin 1.5 miles past Sun Valley Lodge

Visit our website at

www.woodriverfinedining.com 156 sunvalleymag.com | SUMMER 2011

Celebrate Responsibly. www.korbel.com PHOTO BY KEvin SYmS

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