Superior Outdoors project peregrine P.10
OUR
FIRSSUTE IS
m a g a z i n e
Surfs Up with Jaakko Natri P.22
Sailing the North Shore P.28
Keeping Pace with the Voyageurs P.34
Reflections: the Best Outdoor Photography P.40
PLUS
THE QUANDARY OF FOOD MILES MOUNTAIN BIKING SHUNIAH MINES AN INTERESTING CANOE TRIP circa 1886
SUMMER 2007
Canada $4.95 U.S. $4.50
ISSN 1913-4444
contents
features
Voyage Home
A 700 km sailing adventure on the largest lake in the world
28
by Michael O’Reilly
Selling Our Souls to Superior
Surfing Superior
34
The north shore
22
by John-Paul Marion
Keeping pace with the voyageurs
From the archives:
by Conor Mihell
48
An interesting canoe trip
Adventure Travel 14
Letters 4
Routes 16
Weather 5
Arts and Literature 21
Superior Styles 7
Reflections 40
Sustainable Developments 8
Event Listing 50
The Food Chain 13
P.16 Tom Gvora
Intro 3
Conor Mihell
departments
Perspective 56 P.56
Cover photo by Gary McGuffin Šwww.GaryAndJoanieMcGuffin.com Photo this page by John-Paul Marion
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Superior kayak camp hike fish canoe
swim
climb
bike
bird watch
explore photograph
Outdoors
summer 07
magazine of the north shore
Editor-in-chief/Design Darren McChristie Art Director John-Paul Marion Contributing Editor Conor Mihell
hike
canoe
camp dine
laugh
bird watch
kayak shop
bike explore photograph
breathe
Copy Editors Wanda Ewachow, Nancy Ewachow, Lynn Marion Editorial Consultant Michael O’Reilly Contributing Writers Tiina Ahokas, Julee Boan, Captain Gregory Heroux, Wanda Ewachow, Daniel Klassen, Cheryl Landmark, Eric Larson, Michelle McChristie, John-Paul Marion, Conor Mihell, Michael O’Reilly, Barbara Parker, Frank Pianka, Graham Saunders Contributing Photographers Dr. Alan Bruce, Nick Buda, Joel Cooper, Captain Gregory Heroux, Amy Kukkee,Tom Gvora, Julian Holenstien, Bruce Hyer, Gregg Johns, John-Paul Marion, Conor Mihell, Darren McChristie, Michelle McChristie, Gary McGuffin, Jaako Natri, Tarmo Poldmaa, Frank Pianka, Mark Spinler, Cathie Smith, JD Taylor Publisher The Boreal Company
Call 1-800-MOST-FUN ext. 48 for your FREE Visitor's Guide.
Advertising Sales/Distribution Michelle McChristie Superior Outdoors is published twice a year: Summer (June) and Winter (November) Copyright © 2007 by The Boreal Company, All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without written permission is strictly forbidden. Views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. Editorial and Advertising: Submissions must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Superior Outdoors cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material. Published by The Boreal Company Suite 242, 1100 Memorial Avenue, Thunder Bay, Ontario P7C 4V3 Telephone (807) 627-3017; Fax (807) 623-8057 E-mail: info@superioroutdoors.ca Disclaimer: the activities described and illustrated herein are performed by trained athletes and could result in serious bodily injury; do not attempt them without proper training, safety equipment, and supervision. The Boreal Company is not responsible for injuries sustained by readers or failure of equipment described or illustrated herein. ISSN Number 1913-444 Printed in Canada on Acid and Elemental Chlorine Free, Post-Consumer Recycled Paper Superior Outdoors Inc donates 1% of all sales to 1% for the Planet www.onepercentfortheplanet.com
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Superior Outdoors
intro
P
erhaps Kermit the Frog said it best, “it’s not easy being green”. The good news is that it’s getting easier. There are a multitude of green products on the market, in just about every department – paper, food, drinks, clothing, cleaning products, even gasoline. For some people these choices are carefully weighed, if not embraced. For others, they represent another layer of complexity in their lives, perhaps at a cost that they cannot justify. While working on this magazine, we purchased and perused a variety of other magazines and, in 2007, there is an obvious trend – the ‘green issue’. Whether this can be attributed to the success of Al Gore’s award winning documentary or years of crusading by David Suzuki and Greenpeace, people are starting to listen, talk and, most importantly, act. Sure, replacing light bulbs is a small step but, at least it’s a step in the right direction. The media’s attention on the environment is a refreshing change and we hope it continues. For Superior Outdoors, every issue will be a green issue because the subject matter of this magazine is inseparably bound to the environment in which we live. Lake Superior, the greatest of the Great Lakes, is our inspiration, and is the inspiration for our writers and photographers. Our departments include a photo gallery, discussion of environmental issues, and ideas for unique adventures that are
close to home. The feature stories cover a variety of outdoor pursuits and conservation issues with photos that will make you wish that you were there or, in some cases, relieved you weren’t. In this issue, our first, you’ll read about a Finnish Canadian that is stoked about surfing Superior, an epic sailing voyage, whitewater rafting in Minnesota, a citizens’ group that is fighting to protect the north shore and, of course, the weather. Plus, we have the most comprehensive event listing for the region...get out your calendar and sharpie! Superior Outdoors is the first outdoor lifestyle magazine for the north shore, this issue is our premiere, a collector’s item. We would like to extend our gratitude to all of the people who helped make this happen with their encouraging words, advice, contributions and sheer enthusiasm. Thank you to our advertisers. We know it was a leap of faith to advertise in a magazine that, at the time, did not exist. Thank you for supporting the outdoor lifestyle that many of us enjoy in this region. Finally, we hope that you find inspiration in the stories and photos in this magazine. Maybe together we can shed some light on Kermit’s dilemma, one light bulb at a time. -D. McChristie
©iStockphoto.com/Philip Dyer
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Tom Gvora
letters
The Sleeping Giant A Wonder of Canada
As we are going to print, the Sleeping Giant is on its way to becoming one of the CBC’s Seven Wonders of Canada. The Giant is synonymous with Thunder Bay and the Ojibwa legend has a moral that is timeless. The Giant, known as Nanabijou, was turned to stone when the secret location of a rich silver deposit (Silver Islet) was revealed to white men. The Sleeping Giant has the qualities that make this region extraordinary. It is picturesque, rugged, and has unique flora and fauna. Looming over Lake Superior at over 244 m (800 ft), the Giant’s cliffs are the highest in Ontario. This summer, spend some time exploring the Lake and its watershed. If you find something truly special, you may be tempted to keep it to yourself. Fair enough, but spreading the word might also help to protect it and we promise, you will not be turned to stone.
Superior Outdoors welcomes and encourages stories about your adventures (or misadventures), photos and opinions. Please submit your letters to:
The Editor Superior Outdoors Suite 242, 1100 Memorial Ave. Thunder Bay, ON P7C 4V3 editor@superioroutdoors.ca 4
Superior Outdoors
weather Darren McChristie
Temperature Myths Associated with Lake Superior There are temperature myths associated with Lake Superior it is always cold and swimming is usually confined to sheltered bays in early August, when waters are at their warmest. One hears occasionally that it never warms up above 4 C. Yes, while it is the coldest of the Great Lakes and warming does lag behind other lakes after the spring melt, the average surface temperature of Superior peaks at 14.5 C. Typically, bays and shorelines warm to near 20 C in August. These averages are historical. Satellite and buoy measurements (relatively reliable) of Lake Superior surface temperatures show a pronounced warming trend underway. Research published earlier this year by Jay Austin and Steven Colman of the University of Minnesota indicates that from 1979 to 2006 Lake Superior water temperatures increased by 2.5 C. The authors also note that average ice cover declined because of milder winters, that water temperatures begin to rise earlier in spring, and that prolonged summer heat and sunshine has contributed to warmer water throughout the Lake. Last year camping and water recreation was easy, with abundant sunshine and warmer than usual temperatures. Swimming began in June for some, with average lake temperatures of 20 C late July and early August, persisting with an average of 19 C documented well into September. These conditions also contributed to considerable evaporation from lakes and landscape. With most of central North America much drier than aver-
age last year, August in Thunder Bay was the driest on record. Drought conditions were prevalent in the eastern Prairies, most of northwestern Ontario and northern Minnesota, and in September the landscape became so dry that even a spark from a lawnmower, a train wheel or a hot chain saw could start wildfires. More than 300 fires, almost all due to lightning, were noted in one weekend in early September. The combination of reduced rain and little runoff resulted in rapidly declining water levels in waterways throughout the region. Lake Superior had levels below the long-term average for all of 2006. In September, water levels were a mere 10 cm (4 inches) above the record low set in 1926. New low records were set October, November; and the record was tied in March of 2007 Outlook for summer 2007 – most of Lake Superior remained ice-free during the recent winter, and water temperatures were 1 - 2 C higher than average in mid-April. This is similar to last year and also consistent with the trends detailed by the University of Minnesota researchers. Less than average snowfall in the northwest during the winter, and record low amounts around Thunder Bay, have prompted early preparation for another intense forest fire season (which has already begun). It is too early for meaningful predictions of temperatures and precipitation for this summer. Projections issued on June 1st should be consulted. However, mariners should check their charts for lurking hazards Graham Saunders The Lakehead Regional Conservation Authority has issued a Level 2 low water advisory, asking for an immediate 20% water consumption reduction, stating that from February to April the region received 59% the average precipitation levels, and rural wells are running dry.
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superiorstyles
sailsuperior.com
Sailing Superior
Lessons and dreams of a life under sail I was a youngster when my father first took me down to the waterfront in Port Arthur to see the ships. He had been in the navy and was determined to impress upon me his passion and the wonders of the sea to his eight-yearold son. We looked over the waters of Lake Superior, watching the Great Lakes freighters and salties steaming their way into the grain docks. We stood beneath a signpost that read: Toronto 800 miles, Montreal 1,000 miles, Quebec City 1,200 miles, Atlantic Ocean 1,800 miles. My eight-year-old mind thought: Wow! I can get to the sea from here! The world was at my doorstep. I was in grade three when I took my first ride on the Welcome Ship, and when I was 10 my dad bought the family a sailboat and named it after my newborn sister. Only 23 feet long, the boat was certainly big enough to start exploring the beauties of Lake Superior. Summers for my family included fireworks at Chippewa Park on Canada Day, overnights to Otter Cove, Black Bay and Silver Islet and, when we got really adventurous, Isle Royale. By the time I was 15, I was confident enough to set out alone with my high school friends, sharing my secret anchorages. Every guest our family ever entertained—whether they were from the old country or one of my dad’s seven sisters and family visiting —always ended up out on the boat. Simply put, it was the best place to be in the summer. One day my dad suggested we sail down the Mississippi. The thought of a Tom Sawyer-like adventure captivated me, but the plans seemed to fall through the cracks. The years passed. I moved away to university, got a job, started a family, and left Thunder Bay. My career kept me travelling and I always made an effort to sail whenever I could find a boat: Japan, Greece, Finland, Australia, Spain, and every boatyard in between. The sailing was always fun, but it was not the great adventure my dad and I
had planned when I was growing up. Circumstances finally led me back to Thunder Bay, back to the most beautiful lake in the world. Some things were the same, but small changes were noticeable. The mileage sign was gone, and so was the Welcome Ship. My dad had retired and was getting on in years. If there was one thing I learned in all my travels, it’s that the best years should not be the ones behind us. “Dad,” I said, “we need a sailboat and we need to plan for a new adventure.“ The ocean called. We bought a 40foot sailboat, a beautiful ocean-going vessel. Over the next four years together we learned everything we possibly could about sailing. We raced our boat, we chartered our boat, and together we built a small sailing business in Thunder Bay. In 2004 we left Thunder Bay on a blue moon. Together with friends, family and charter guests we sailed for over 15,000 miles and eight months, past Toronto, Montréal, Québec City, out into the Atlantic and across to Lisbon. We transited the Straits of Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean, then back across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and, finally, home. Two months after
our great adventure my father passed away, but the stories and memories will remain forever with me as some of the best times of my life. Sailing and the wonders of Lake Superior are the story of my life. I sail every day all summer long with my daughter, my fiancé and her children. My boat now docks where the Welcome Ship once did, and most of my sailing involves introducing local residents and tourists to the lake. What would my life be like had I not stood under that signpost with my dad 35 years ago? It’s about time someone replaced that mileage signpost. For now, I will continue to kindle dreams of sailing Superior and the watery world beyond. There will be future trips down the lake and out to the sea. The best years of my life will never be behind me. Captain Gregory If you are interested in sailing with Captain Gregory Héroux , either as a passenger or to learn to sail, check out www.sailsuperior.com. Superior Outdoors
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sustainabledevelopments Extinction is Forever Overhaul of Ontario’s Endangered Species Act is long overdue In 2003, Premier McGuinty made an election promise, “We will update and strengthen Ontario’s Endangered Species Act…Protection of species is virtually meaningless unless there are also protections for the areas where they live, feed and breed.” True to this promise, on March 20, 2007 the provincial government introduced Bill 184, Ontario’s revised Endangered Species Act. An overhaul of the Act, enacted in 1971, is long overdue. In fact, in four recent Annual Reports Ontario ‘s Environmental Commissioner, Gord Miller, drew attention to the urgent need for new endangered species legislation. Ontario’s current Endangered Species Act does not cover all the species identified by scientists as being endangered. Nor does the current law offer adequate protection for those relatively few endangered species that actually are covered by the Act. There are now 190 officially recognized species at risk in the province, and that number is increasing every year. The introduction of the revised Act follows extensive public consultation and the report of an expert scientific panel. This revision requires a process for listing species determined by an independent scientific body; will prohibit damage to habitat of endangered and threatened species; and requires mandatory recovery planning. After almost a year of public consultation, many conservation groups (including the David Suzuki Foundation and Ontario Nature) have expressed strong support for the revised Act. “The promise of this Bill lies in its balanced approach to species protection. It marries a science-based approach with the flexibility needed to accommodate compatible resource use,” says Rachel Plotkin, Policy Analyst for the David Suzuki Foundation. “This is exactly the type of approach needed to 8
Superior Outdoors
protect endangered species.” However, not all stakeholders have been supportive. Spokesperson Jamie Lim, President of the Ontario Forest Industries Association, warns of “dire consequences” for people, communities and industries – although, the exact nature of the consequences remains unclear. Opponents of the Bill have not identified (at least not publicly) any specific issues with the proposed legislation. One of the forest industry’s concerns may stem from the threatened status of woodland caribou in Ontario. Woodland caribou have disappeared from nearly half of their former range in the province in the past 100 years – and now survive mainly in Ontario’s northern forests. Many scientists have linked the species’ disappearance with northward progressing industrial development and associated road networks. Woodland caribou are quickly becoming an icon for forest sustainability with Ontario’s public. The revised Act appears to provide significant improvements in seeking a
balance with socio-economic interests. As an example of the Bill’s flexibility, through stewardship agreements and permits the proposed legislation will allow resource use that might otherwise be prohibited, in circumstances where it doesn’t jeopardize a species’ survival or recovery. The Bill also provides for species-specific habitat regulations so that the area protected as a species’ habitat under the Act can be tailored to accommodate both the species’ needs and resource use. In addition, the Bill establishes a Stewardship Program, which is accompanied by an $18 million fund to assist landowners in their efforts to protect endangered species and their habitat. None of these mechanisms or programs exist under the old Act. Wendy Francis, Director of Conservation and Science for Ontario Nature, frames the issue most succinctly: “Ontario is home to more endangered plants and animals than any other Canadian province - it’s high time we did something about it.”
Save the environment without sacrificing
style.
279 Bay Street Thunder Bay
807-345-4423
www.naturalhabit.ca
sustainabledevelopments
“Woodland caribou have disappeared from nearly half of their former range in the province in the past 100 years and now survive mainly in Ontario’s northern forests”
Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources/ JD Taylor
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Frank Pianka
There’s nothing cozy about a peregrine falcon’s “nest”. These fiercely territorial fighter-jets of the sky will claim a sheer cliff, generally near a large body of water, and here, on a bare ledge high above the dangers faced by ground dwellers, lay their eggs (up to four) and tutor their young in the art of becoming the world’s fastest raptor. They may have only a patch or two of vegetation for shelter from the hot sun, the pelting rain or the probing eyes of a biologist intent on affixing identification bands to their legs or drawing a blood sample for analysis. Knowing where the chicks are is the starting point for the team of volunteers that work on Project Peregrine each summer. In late June, when the chicks are about three weeks old, the team works on the first challenge, getting to a point directly above the “nest”. This could involve following GPS coordinates while bush-whacking, scrambling up steep slopes using a rope or sidestepping patches of poison ivy while carrying all the gear needed for the climber to get down to the birds—and back up.
Rapelling down to the falcon’s nest
The adult falcons may help the team locate the right position by sounding the alarm, a piercing screech that clearly means “stay away!”. 10
Superior Outdoors
A falcon chick ready to be banded
Once positioned above the nest site, ropes are rigged so a climber can rappel down to the chicks and carefully put them into a specially designed bird box, ready to be hauled up for the biologists. On top of the cliff, the chicks are sexed, aged and given their new identification bands. Feather samples are taken, and, in a few cases, blood samples are drawn by toxicology experts. These specialists in poison are studying the movement of PBDE through the food chain, a ubiquitous chemical used as a flame retardant in the manufacture of just about every consumer product. Meanwhile, the lone climber is still on the ledge enjoying the view and picking up prey remains so the chicks’ diets can be assessed. Body parts of crows, gulls and especially pigeons litter the white washed ledge and attract clouds of flies. It’s no wonder the chicks want to leave this mess as soon as possible, about five weeks after hatching, and take to the sky. The banded chicks are gently returned to their ledge nest and the climber begins the arduous ascent (“jug”) back up the rope. Some ascents are short and easy while others may involve a fifty metre climb, straight up the rope, with only space below and everyone else above, waiting for you. It’s exhilarating work for the banding team and thrilling for anyone lucky enough to tag along on a trip; but for the technical crew, it’s no
Frank Pianka
Project Peregrine
Frank Pianka
sustainabledevelopments
A biologist takes a blood sample
time to relax. The hazards are constantly being monitored by the experienced climbers and riggers to minimize the risks for everyone involved. The team has banded over three hundred peregrine falcon chicks in Northern Ontario and is looking forward to its twelfth season this summer. Frank Pianka PBDE, or polybrominated diphenyl ether is a flame retardant used in the manufacture of many household products, like furniture, fabrics and electronics. In Canada there is concern that PBDE is having a harmful effect on humans and the environment. In Europe, forms of PBDE have been banned since 2004 following a Swedish study that found related chemicals in human breast milk and other tissues.
sustainabledevelopments
Concerned Citizens Fight Aggregate Extractions
In 1999, a large Michigan-based highway construction company purchased a 385-hectare parcel on Lake Superior’s picturesque north shore, at Michipicoten Bay, near Wawa, Ontario, with the intent of developing a large quarry. The Superior Aggregates Company (SAC) plans to blast, crush, and ship part of Lake Superior’s spectacular coastline to Michigan to pave highways. The proposed SAC quarry is at the centre of a 250 km sweep of largely undeveloped Lake Superior shoreline, from Marathon to Montreal River. Issues of concern for a quarry in this area include noise, dust, acid mine drainage, as well as potential negative impacts on fish habitat, groundwater, aesthetics, woodland caribou and eco-tourism. Citizens Concerned for Michipicoten Bay (CCMB) is a non-profit organization that was formed in response to the quarry proposal. CCMB wants to ensure that any possible quarry near Lake Superior should at least be far removed from the shoreline and, if developed at all, adhere to best management practices and the highest environmental standards. SAC’s first application in 2004 for a quarry licence was withdrawn in 2006. The company agreed that it had not accurately determined the elevation of the water table. SAC re-applied for a quarry licence in the fall of 2006. SAC is now reviewing comments on its application made by government agencies and the public. SAC also applied to the Township of Michipicoten (Wawa) to amend the Township’s Official Plan and re-zone the quarry area, which covers only a small portion of the company’s entire holdings. The Township has approved the amendment to the Official Plan, which CCMB has appealed to the Ontario Municipal Board (OMB).
CCMB has proposed their own amendment to the Official Plan, which covers SAC’s entire property. This proposed amendment was rejected by the Township. CCMB appealed the Township’s decision to the OMB and expects the Minister of Natural Resources to refer SAC’s quarry licence application to the OMB as well. The OMB is an independent tribunal
MICHIPICOTEN BAY Wawa
responsible for resolving disputes in land use planning and quarry applications. It is expected that the OMB hearing may take place later in 2007 or early 2008. CCMB has assembled an experienced and dedicated professional team (planner, lawyer, hydro-geologist, acoustical engineer) to present an effective case at the upcoming hearing. Ensuring the team’s success requires adequate and reliable funding. More information about the quarry and how you can help is available at CCMB’s website: www.ccmb.ca.
Proposed Quarry
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the foodchain
The Quandary of Food Miles Making green choices at the supermarket can be a challenge
©iStockphoto.com/Mark Evans
Grocery shopping has become a confusing chore in recent years, and it’s hard to know whether buying products labelled as green actually reduces environmental impacts. Organic foods seem like an obvious choice, but even that is controversial. “Fair trade” may not be as fair as you think; and buying local foods may not reduce food miles. The term “food miles” refers to the number of kilometers that various food items travel from where they are grown or produced to where they are consumed. The concept is similar to that of carbon miles, which in the case of food, refers to the amount of carbon dioxide emissions released into the environment through production and transportation. Eating local foods reduces food and carbon miles and supports local producers. It sounds simple enough but, along the north shore of Lake Superior, it is not an easy task to purchase all of the food one needs (or wants) from local producers throughout the year. Plus, the food miles associated with food transported locally in small quantities by individuals may actually be greater than a similar product purchased at a supermarket. This is because supermarkets have centralized distribution, lean supply chains, and large full trucks. Although the source of most food is shown on the label or package, the details as to its production are a mystery. The mangoes from Mexico may have fewer food miles than the kiwis from New Zealand, but the agricultural practices in New Zealand could be more sustainable. Importing tomatoes from South America might result in fewer carbon emissions than producing them in Canada in a heated greenhouse. Perhaps the problem is not where food is grown and how it is transported but the fact that most of the western civilization opts to eat food that is out of season, or “exotic”. Maybe it is not sustainable to eat bananas and avocados in January, and the alternative – eating produce when it is in season requires people to reconnect with the land on which they live. This can be as simple as cultivating a garden, shopping at farmers’ markets, and co-ops or CSAs (community-supported agriculture). Canning and preserving locally grown foods is somewhat of a lost art but, as with most environmental issues, going back to the basics is often the best choice. Making green choices at the supermarket is a challenge, and for every argument in support of a production method there is a counter argument. Before you succumb to frustration and
buy fruit cocktail and hot dogs, make a concerted effort to understand the issues. Education and empowerment are the tools we all require to enact change. Michelle McChristie Barbara Parker For more info: www.prideoftheprairie.org,www.farmersmarketsontario. com,www.sustainabletable.org,www.slowfoodmn.org,www. slowfoodsuperior.ca,www.NolaluEcoCentre.org
Stamina Snacks Speaking of food miles, these snacks pack a lot of energy and will keep you going for a few more miles. This recipe is easy and the snacks are a great alternative to packaged cookies or granola bars. We recommend packing them near the top of your bag for easy access. 1 cup butter or margarine ½ cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar, lightly packed 1 tsp vanilla (or rum) 2 eggs 1 cup all-purpose or whole wheat flour ¾ cup granola 1 cup milk powder 1 cup bran flakes, crushed 1 cup wheat germ 1 cup mini chocolate chips 1 cup sunflower seeds or chopped nuts Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C). Cream butter and sugar, add vanilla and eggs. Stir in remaining ingredients. Press into a greased 9” x 13” (23 cm x 33 cm) pan, bake for 20-25 minutes until light brown. Cool, and cut into 24 squares. Store in an airtight container, freeze extra squares for your next trip. MM Superior Outdoors
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adventuretravel Voyageur Musical Tour
Paddling a voyageur canoe is a unique experience but, paddling with one of Canada’s foremost folk musicians while exploring the newly designated Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Reserve is the experience of a lifetime. Join Naturally Superior Adventures and singer/songwriter/playwright Ian Tamblyn for the Voyageur Canoe Musical Tour from Rossport to Red Rock (you’ll arrive just in time for the Live from the Rock Folk Festival). The canoe is a 36-foot-long replica fur trade canoe, and the trip is limited to 10 participants. Paddling experience is not required and the pace is relaxed to moderate. The canoe is stable and roomy - participants are encouraged to bring musical instruments for impromptu concerts with Mr. Tamblyn or late night jams at the folk festival. For more info: www.naturallysuperior.com www.tamblyn.com; www.livefromtherock.com
Sawtooth Mountain Park
Whitewater Rafting on the St. Louis River
Superior Whitewater offers trips daily (2½ hours long), May through September. They provide all of the equipment, a shuttle service, and the friendliest, nicest guides you’ll ever meet. Participants must be a minimum of 12 years old – no exceptions, in good health, emotionally mature and intellectually sharp (refer to their website for specific details). Since everyone wears life jackets, swimming ability is not necessary. The rafts accommodate between four to six people, from beginners to experts. More challenging, high water conditions, usually (but not always) occur early in the season. Likewise, a combination of funfilled rapids, with milder weather and river conditions, generally occurs later in the season. Regardless of conditions it’s always a great time on the river with Superior Whitewater. For more info: www.minnesotawhitewater.com 14
Superior Outdoors
The history of Lutsen Mountains resort began in 1885 when a young Swede named Charles Nelson established his homestead at the base of the Sawtooth Mountain Range on the shore of Lake Superior. As pioneers and innkeepers, the Nelson family developed the four season resort and ski area. In the 1980s, another Minnesotan family purchased the resort and they continued to build on the vision of Lutsen’s founders. Lutsen’s Sawtooth Mountain Park is situated on a huge expanse of precambrian rock that forms this area of the North Shore. The scenery at Lutsen is rugged and beautiful, and this makes it an ideal venue for a variety of outdoor pursuits. The Sawtooth Mountain Park has an alpine slide (fun for kids and their parents), hiking trails, and mountain bike trails that can be accessed by chairlift or gondola. The trails offer amazing views of Lake Superior and late September brings a spectacular array of fall colours. The mountain biking trails at Lutsen sprawl across roughly 1,000 acres of mountain terrain and amount to 20 miles of marked trails. The trails are rated in a similar manner to ski runs. The easiest trails are mainly gravel access roads, intermediate trails are dirt surface and may include more hills and longer routes, and advanced trails are a combination or rock and dirt with steep climbs and/or descents. Combining individual trails provides an endless array of trail variety, and the trails offer terrain that is suitable for all skill levels. Rental bikes and equipment are available, as well as top-notch food and accommodations. For more info: Lutsen Mountains, www.lutsen.com
adventuretravel
Ontario’s Wilderness Paddling Triple-header If you are looking for a true wilderness experience, head north of Lake Superior to three of the largest and most beautiful parks in the world. Quetico Park is attached to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), with only the Canadian border between them. Slightly bigger than the BWCA at 476,000 hectares, this area has been protected for many decades and contains old growth pine forests. Quetico receives far less paddlers than the BWCA, so you can paddle away from people to more secluded areas. Visitors appreciate that motorized boats are not allowed in the park and this leads to a truly peaceful visit. A little smaller (457,000 hectares) but a lot less traveled than Quetico is Woodland Caribou Park, near the mining town of Red Lake. Besides having less than ten percent of the paddlers of Quetico, Woodland Caribou has...woodland caribou! Paddlers can explore an unlimited variety of canoe routes, and the fur trade routes of the Hudson Bay and Northwest Companies. Using the services of a local guide, you can have a pilot lash your canoe to the side of that floatplane, and whisk you in or out of the wilderness. Larger, more remote and the least traveled of these parks is Wabakimi. This park has been protected from logging and road access; it covers 892,000 hectares, and, in 2006 saw a mere 700 paddlers. Access is through the hamlet of Armstrong, a three hour drive north of Thunder Bay, and about 6.5 hours north of Duluth. Many paddlers enter Wabakimi by train and fly out by floatplane. Wabakimi is in the Arctic Watershed, so all water flows north to Hudson Bay. There are trips in Wabakimi for anywhere from three days to three weeks, and the park is also home to elusive and beautiful woodland caribou, which calve on Wabakimi islands in May and June. Michelle McChristie photography by Bruce Hyer
Fore more info: www.ontarioparks.ca www.canoenorthwesternontario.ca www.nosta.on.ca
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Conor Mihell
routes
Whitewater kayaker John Myles picks and bounces his way down Bloody Nose, a 15-foot falls on the Harmony River
Hardcore on the Harmony Whitewater paddling on Lake Superior’s best creek Patrons of the Harmony Beach Lounge on Lake Superior’s Batchawana Bay no longer rubberneck at the motley crew of whitewater paddlers who share their midst. Of late, more than a halfdozen paddlers from Sault Ste. Marie have been joining the locals for aprèspaddling beverages at the mouth of one of Lake Superior’s best spring and fall whitewater creek runs. The Harmony River cascades out of the Algoma Highlands just west of Sault Ste. Marie, emptying into Lake Superior’s Batchawana Bay. The best section for paddling is located an easy 45-minute drive from the Sault, about five kilometres up a logging road. The Harmony is a classic creek boating river that runs fast and bouldery in a three-kilometre-long warm up before beginning a haywire descent of steep 16
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cascades to Lake Superior. The more notable drops have ominous names— V-groove, Bloody Nose and Speed Bump—among others. The entire 10kilometre-long run takes about three hours to complete. “The Harmony is the Ottawa [River] of creeking,” says Sault Ste. Marie’s Jorma Paloniemi, referring to Eastern Ontario’s favourite whitewater destination. “There’s a little bit of everything thrown into one easy run.” Paloniemi, John Myles and a handful of other paddlers have been running the Harmony for three years. There’s no wonder why the locals think they’re insane. Imagine bouncing down a steep, rock-choked, river in an eightfoot plastic kayak. Toss in a couple unplanned wipeouts and swims in 10foot falls and you have the makings for a good adventure. Body armour is mandatory. Maybe it’s for the good of the paddlers that the Harmony comes with a spring- and fall-only high water window. “I can’t believe some of the stuff
we’re running now,” says Paloniemi. “A year or two ago it would’ve been unheard of.” Paloniemi and Myles have a story to go along with every drop on the Harmony. Creeking is a game of chance. You do your best to set up on the right line, but things happen and next thing you know you’re caroming off rocks sideways and finishing the run in reverse. Still, Paloniemi says that if you do miss your line—or worse, flip—there’s nothing to worry about. “We’ve ran this one just about every possible way you can,” he says of Bloody Nose, a 15-foot falls. “We’ve swam in it too. And no one’s died yet!” The payoff comes at the end. After a white-knuckle run, the river fans out in a series of easy S-turns before dumping into Lake Superior. Then, after stepping out of their drysuits, helmets and elbow pads, Paloniemi and his crew take on a different type of watering hole. Conor Mihell
routes
Group builds trails according to IMBA guidelines Cook County, just north of Grand Marais in northern Minnesota, is home to Lake Superior, the Sawtooth Mountain Range and the Superior National Forest. These pristine areas provide endless adventure and exploration. For the casual cyclist or the serious off-road mountain biker, this region provides over 2,000 miles of trails. Yet despite the apparent unending potential for epics and other great rides, until recently there have been relatively few, if any, designated trails specifically maintained for single track riding. Until, that is, Mark Spinler, owner and operator of the local bike shop in Grand Marais, began a process with the help of the local bike club that would encompass nearly four years and a mountain of paper work. In return for all that elbow grease, one of the state’s premiere single track trails was born. From the start, the goal was to create a trail that would be sustainable and could handle the heavy use incurred by locals and a burgeoning tourist demographic. That meant hours of research to find the latest trail building techniques, studying existing trails and adhering strictly to IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association) and other trail building guidelines. The next step involved actually finding a suitable piece of land to build trails. Given the time line, federal land was out (the process for getting approval takes months if not years). There was also little state land with appropriate access. Eventually, Spinler located an 80-acre parcel in the middle of the existing Pincushion ski trail system only a few miles outside of Grand Marais. With abundant parking, an outhouse and double track trails that were already used by bikers, it was an uncut jewel - prime single track real estate. The trail work began in earnest only after gaining support from the Cook County government and the Ski and Run Club (which maintains the Pincushion ski trails). Equally important was funding. Given the delicate nature of the terrain in the area, the trails needed to be built to the highest standard. The team acquired grants from the Federal Recreational Trails Program, the county’s recreation fund and additional bike industry donations. The result of all that hard work is obvious. The current loop is 2.5 miles long and is an intermediate level, tight & twisty trail with natural and man made features. Every rider who has ridden the trail has fallen immediately in love. Put simply: it is just fun to ride. In a few weeks, an entrance sign will mark the start of the single track. Please sign the guest book and add your comments too. As this article goes to print, trail builders are adding an expert level loop winding inside the current trail. Future projects will include an expert trail on a 40-acre county property just south of the Pincushion system and an intermediate trail connecting all the loops to the parking lot.
Mark Spinler
Building Sustainable Trails
The trails at Pincussion will be part of this year’s Sawtooth Challenge
This new area has a dramatically increased slope and will also include several stream crossings (bridged of course). The group is also working on developing a five-year plan to significantly increase the amount of single track in the area. This particular trail has had such positive reviews that it will be a high-lighted section during the Sawtooth Challenge on August 25th. Eric Larson For more info: www.sawtoothchallenge.com Maps and trail conditions at Superior North Outdoor Center www.superiornorthoutdoor.com Superior Outdoors
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Allan Bruce
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RIDING SHUNIAH SINGLETRACK Epic rides possible at former silver mine
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currentriver greenway trailmap
For a detailed curre map of the trails in the Shuniah Mines/Centennial Park areas, pick up a copy of the Current River Greenway Trail Map produced by Thunder Bay Recreational Trails. TheCAS map CADES CON VATION is available SER in AREA Thunder Bay at bike shops and outdoor stores.
nt rive
Photo: Bob Tkaczyk
Photo: Susan Dykstra
The area in Thunder Bay known as Shuniah Mines has a rich history as a silver mine and the site of the area’s first ski jump. Today, Shuniah Mines has one of the best networks of singletrack on the north shore. The area can be accessed from the Trowbridge Falls Campground, Centennial Park or from the hydro right-ofway on the east side of Balsam Street. Shuniah Mines has an excellent variety of trails, from the technical ‘Dagobah and Snakes & Ladders’ to the smooth and fast ‘1 K Trail’. The technical trails are rooty with steep drops and climbs while the intermediate singletrack has smooth and fast ribbons of dirt that twist and turn along the contours of the land. Another popular trail is the ‘2 K Trail’ although, we admit, the name does not do it justice. This trail has some excellent technical climbs and descents with minimal roots and wet sections (which may not be a concern this summer!). For an epic ride, consider linking the trails at Shuniah Mines with those of Centennial Park, another popular area for mountain biking. The trails at Centennial Park are wider and well-marked and, as a bonus, you can reward yourself with a dip in the Current River. Darren McChristie
The tight singletrack at Shuniah Mines
A project of...
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A Historical Perspective
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– Philip Albanese
A long history
see reverse for more
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he Current River Basin has a long history. Ancient glaciers passed this way, and scratch marks made by their movement are readily visible on the flats of the river. The basin once served as a winter route for First Nations travelers. Several Paleo Indian sites have been discovered, some more than 9000 years old. Copper artifacts have been discovered near the mouth of the Current River indicating a thriving people several thousand years ago. The mining tradition continu ed. Beginning in the late 18
Photo: Allan Bruce
Photo: Bob Tkaczyk
SHUNIAH
detail
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Aguasabon Gorge
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minded hikers and also provides access to information and up-to-date trail conditions. Local clubs oversee sections near their communities. Stretches through provincial and national parks are maintained by these entities, and endeavours like the GPS project show a membership committed to benefitting future trail users. So, like the intrepid voyageursof-old, modern day adventurers continue to blaze trails in northern Ontario. Cheryl Landmark
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Like the legendary Voyageurs who paddled from the St. Lawrence River valley deep into the interior of the continent, the Voyageur Trail Association (VTA) is a testament to what can be achieved by a group of people all pulling in the same direction. Since its inception in 1973 the VTA has been promoting foot trails in northern Ontario communities, and advancing its goal of a continuous hiking trail connecting Thunder Bay with South Baymouth on Manitoulin Island, a distance of some 1,100 km. Today, through the dedicated efforts of volunteers and in collaboration with landowners along the route, this dream has been more than half realized. The footpath is designed for hiking, snowshoeing, and backcountry skiing, although some portions overlap with snowmobile trails and bridges. The trail is billed as a wilderness experience, and some segments are not for the weak-kneed or ill-prepared. For example, the climb up to the Mount Gwynne Lookout near Terrace Bay will set the heart racing from both the dizzying elevation and the steep topography, although the trail itself is well-defined and easily followed. The southern part of the Pukaskwa National Park coastal trail is little used, making it challenging to follow, as well as demanding to hike. East of Sault Ste. Marie hikers will encounter a variety of hiker opportunities, from pleasant dayhikes on country roads and paths to remote wilderness trails best suited to overnight adventures. The VTA publishes the Voyageur Hiking Trail Guidebook (the fourth edition released May 2007), containing fullcolour maps and written descriptions of 600 km of trail. The book makes planning an outing a snap, with details on how to access the trail route and what to expect; and the maps are generated using computer software and GPS technology. Although not yet available, the VTA is working to make the trail route available for downloading to GPS units, a feature that will appeal to many hikers. This most recent edition includes new trails: a 20 km section linking the Town of Marathon with Pukaskwa National Park; a southern extension from Wawa reaching Lake Superior Provincial Park; loop trails near Sault Ste. Marie; and a 90 km section through Elliot Lake and Spanish. In addition, new routes link the path to both the Sault Ste. Marie and the Bruce Mines downtown areas. A Voyageur Trail membership is a great way to keep in touch with like
$50 min purchase regular priced items only
The Voyageur Trail Association
Kas Stone
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artsandliterature
Submerge, 2006 Acrylic on Canvas 76.2cm x 101.6cm (30” x 40”)
Artist Profile: Julie Cosgrove Why Thunder Bay? Tree-planting 10 years ago, Julie Cosgrove settled in Thunder Bay and completed her Honours Bachelor of Fine Arts at Lakehead University in 2004. Meeting her partner was instrumental in keeping her in Thunder Bay, though the access to fresh waterways, beautiful boreal forest and its unique light was also an attraction, and is reflected in her work. Julie and her partner guide wilderness canoe expeditions out of Pickle Lake and in Wabakimi Park for Canoe Frontier, an ecotourism outfitter. They have even been up the Winisk River to Polar Bear Park, and Julie admits that the scenery she encounters from guiding and flying over remote areas gets worked into her art. Through summers canoeing and winters travelling or working in her studio, she has developed a balance in her life that has brought unique influences and images to her work. She usually works on consignment with a number of commercial galleries in Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec City, and has had Thunder Bay shows as well. Currently, she is preparing for a show at the end of June in Montreal, and has been teaching classes through the Painted Turtle. 20
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Influences? Thunder Bay is a great place for being an artist: it’s “the best of both worlds”. The personal environment can be separated from the work, and each environment has a different light, climate, environment, etc. Influenced by her canoeing images, as well as her award-winning university work in clay, Julie also considers a seven month nomadic “yurt-to-yurt” horse trek in southeast Asia and Mongolia to have had a strong impact. Lake Superior is an inspiration with its constant changeability and Julie’s focus on Superior’s horizon lines, and her fascination with ice formations or seeing underneath the ice is explored in her work. Roots? From the Gatineau region, and Waldorf-schooled, both her parents were “creative thinkers” and self-taught artists: her father a furniture-maker and her mother a marionette artist. She also completed her last year at high school in the F.A.C.E. program (Fine Arts Core Education) at Dawson College. Visit her website to view her paintings, information on shows and contact information. www.juliecosgrove.com Wanda Ewachow
artsandliterature
A Paddler’s Guide to Quetico and Beyond (Paperback) By Kevin Callan (March, 2007)
Kevin Callan is a renowned paddling personality, and his new book describes 10 of Quetico’s best trips, plus five adventurous excursions to destinations just beyond the park’s boundaries. Trips range from weekend recreational paddles to 10-day multi-lake loops, and there is something for every skill level. All route maps are original and up to date. This book is available at book & paddling stores in Canada, and on-line at SangFroid Press: www.sangfroidpress.com/northwoods.htm.
Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald: The Legendary Great Lakes Disaster (Paperback) by Elle Andra-Warner (November, 2006)
Elle Andra-Warner is a Thunder Bay-based writer, specializing in writing about history, people and places. Mariners and ships-at-sea are part of her personal history and her recent book is a compliment to this sea-faring past. Elle’s haunting book, Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald : The Legendary Great Lakes Disaster, tells the tale of one of Lake Superior’s most legendary and controversial shipwrecks, and looks back to when the SS Edmund Fitzgerald suddenly surrendered to ferocious gale-force winds, plunging to the bottom of Lake Superior, leaving no survivors.
Northwoods Whitewater: A Paddlers Guide to Whitewater of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Ontario and Michigan (Paperback) by Jim Rada (April, 2006)
Northwoods Whitewater: A Paddlers Guide to Whitewater of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Ontario and Michigan is comprehensive guide for those hoping to find, run, and survive the best whitewater in the Northwoods. The Guide features technical yet spirited descriptions of the nooks and crannies of numerous rivers, falls, and rapids, and is illustrated by colourful images and tales of the author’s journeys. A detailed rating system assists paddlers in choosing the best river for their level of experience, while topographic maps and a user-friendly layout lead paddlers straight to their chosen whitewater rivers and creeks. Tiina Ahokas Superior Outdoors
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SURFING SUPERIOR
the north shore
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erhaps it required a Finnish born Canadian to master the art of surfing the north shore. Complete with portable sauna Jaakko Natri, brother Miikko and a hearty group of fellow surfers have created a bona fide surf community, grooving with the hydraulic thrust of Lake Superior.
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John-Paul Marion
Words by JOHN-PAUL MARION photographs by AMY KUKKEE Superior Outdoors
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Y
(inset-previous page) Dave Edwards on a short board (above and sequence below) Jer Bowery showing perfect form
es, this is the real thing. More than thirty surfers in and around Thunder Bay have discovered quality surfing sites between Marathon and Grand Marais. There are five or six good locations so far, but “we’re always looking and we know that there has to be more out there”, claims Jaakko.
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It all began in the fall of 1998 when a couple of surfing friends from Florida were driving to Thunder Bay along the north shore and noticed some great waves at Terrace Bay. Although they only had spring suits they proceeded to surf all afternoon. Jaako and Miikko (who were living in Vancouver at the time) heard the story and were “super stoked”. The brothers, born in Finland but Thunder Bay residents since the mid eighties, began surfing during the eighties in Florida, eventually surfing up and down both coasts of North America, Hawaii and the Caribbean. By 2003 they were back in the Lakehead scouting sites and running Natribros Surf, a business serving the gear and service needs (including rentals) of the scene. Lake Superior may not get thirty to sixty foot waves to ride – when they get upwards of twenty feet it is way too crazy – but as Jaakko states, “some of the best rides I’ve ever had have been on the north shore.” While good three foot waves can offer fun rides, eight to ten footers are not uncommon, providing quality surfing for all skill levels and board styles. Long boards are more common as they have greater
(clockwise from above) The portable sauna, wetsuits are mandatory, hanging out at ‘switchbacks’ in Terrace Bay
flotation, are easier to catch waves with, and are faster when paddling. With fresh water being less buoyant than sea water, more flotation is really an advantage. Given the cold temperature of Lake Superior, proper gear is essential. Neoprene 6-5-4 mm suits, 7 mm booties, and 5-7 mm gloves or mitts provide warmth for surfers all year round. The surfers always keep an eye on each other for any sign of serious chills. Alas, leave it to Finnish blood to carry along the ultimate solution to braving the elements: a sauna. Upon arrival the surf is good, everyone is stoked, and before long the sauna is stoked. Wave after wave and you feel chill . . . the sauna it warms your body . . . cheers your spirit . . . clears your mind . . . allows you to catch more waves. Jaakko has devised a portable sauna comprised of an aluminum frame, custom-fit tarp, jeep-style plastic windows, and fireproof canvas flashing for the flue of a stainless steel woodstove – all of which can be erected in ten minutes. When the surf is good you don’t want to miss it! The sauna is a valuable aid in the prevention of hypothermia. With the average temperature of Lake Superior being
4 C it is possible to get dangerously cold while having the time of your life. No problems here – when you feel cold you take some heat in the sauna. If you get cold feet put them in a bucket filled with warm water from the stove. The sauna lets you be naked in any temperature, and you can even wash your hair at the end of the day. Cold may be the main hazard – which is somewhat more comforting than sharks - however there are rocks to avoid and sometimes boards and ins can hammer you in a “wreck”. Holding your breath, staying calm and being cool while you go through “the washing machine” are typical of surfing survival anywhere. As a testament to the power of Lake Superior waves, Jaakko relates: “The longest I’ve been held under has been here on the north shore.” A surfer can expect to be held under occasionally while surfing big waves anywhere on earth, and Superior’s surf is par for the course. Accessing high-tech weather information, including sixty hour wave forecasts, Jaakko and friends respond at every opportunity, at any time of the year. The best surf is often in the spring and fall, mainly due to seasonal storms, but surfing
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from December to April also contributes to the thirty plus days accumulated through the year. Jaakko says it could be up to fifty if you followed the storms around the lake. There aren’t many places in the world were you can ski/snowboard and surf on the same day. Jaakko, who keeps surfing gear in his VW van year round, says “I have been warmer in my wetsuit on the lake than on the chairlift earlier in the day. The north shore is so beautiful man. It’s pristine, it’s clean . . . it’s pure nature and we get to surf some great waves.” Surfers “ The north shore is so beautiful man, it’s pristine, live in the moment of pure enjoyment while it’s clean . . . it’s pure pursuing their passion nature and we get to surf of finding great waves, some great waves. and the intimacy of the north shore offers such stunning natural beauty that even a mediocre day of surfing can be a sublime day at the beach. Very few people witness how the land and water meet in such an engaging fashion. The excitement is rising and Jaakko is stoked to inaugurate a friendly competition festival with surfing, kiting and all around good vibes. Terrace Bay, with two good surf spots, a natural harbour, and wonderful sand beach, “would be sick” as Jaakko says – meaning a great time for all.
”
To view some hardcore north shore surfing you can visit Natribros Surf ’s website at www.surfnatribros.com. Included with hundreds of photos and a ten minute video is an exciting one minute trailer of a film in the works, capturing the spirit of this far-out north shore adventure.
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(above) The sun sets on a sublime day at the beach (below) Dave Edwards rides an eight foot wave
A bona fide surf community is emerging on the north shore
what you’ll need to climb on board... Suits: New neoprine technology does not restrict movement making it easier to paddle and keep warm. Look for 7 mm booties, 5-7 mm gloves or mitts, and a 6-5-4 mm hooded suit. Boards: long boards (8’-10’) make it easier to catch waves. They provide more flotation and are more stable to get up on. short board/fish (5’ to 7’) are more responsive and easier to maneuver. Food: a bowl of gumption soup
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Cathie Smith
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©iStockphoto.com/Ian Siso
“Connor! Go!” yells Mike, as he fights with the helm, trying desperately to avoid being broached by the 3+ meter wave. “No!!” screams Ann, who is working the tangled jib sheets, and also happens to be Connor’s Aunt. Ann flashes through a future where she is explaining to her older sister why she led her son to a watery grave. But the good ship Elysian is in peril. Conner is the only one in a position to act. “Yes! Connor, go!!” Mike yells again. And so Connor goes. Leaping out of the safety of the cockpit, he crawls his way to the foredeck of the flailing sailboat. The lines that control our foresail
Passage The
words and photographs by MICHAEL O’REILLY
Home
have snagged on the dinghy, and we are stuck in the middle of a tack.
A 740 km We are being violently tossed and turned by the rough seas off the Slate Islands and our little sailing vessel is in imminent danger of voyage along becoming very wet indeed. the north shore O of the largest lake in the world ur journey on the great inland sea of Lake Superior was all an adventure should be: tremendous joy, beauty and tranquillity interspersed with the occasional challenge and a few truly terrifying moments. In short, it was amazing. The voyage began with a decision to move to the City of Thunder Bay. Ann and I had been living in the small town of Marathon for the previous eight years, and had recently purchased a 34-foot ketch. The sailboat, a 30 year old double-master, was located in Georgian Bay’s North Channel near Blind River. We’d been sailing those gentle and beautiful waters for the previous couple of years. The move to Thunder Bay not only meant shifting home, but also moving the sailboat. The route would take us from Serpent Harbour in the North Channel, up the mighty St. Mary’s River, through the locks at
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Gros Cap Lighthouse
Sault Ste. Marie, and then along the Canadian coast of Lake Superior. The distance is more than 400 nautical miles (nm). That’s 740 km in landlubber talk. Undaunted by the fact that neither Ann nor I had sailed more than 50 nm at one go, and unperturbed by the reality that our boat still needed a lot of work, we made plans for the journey. The trip began as most wilderness adventures tend to – frantic, and in the rain. July 4th was departure day, and we set off wet and tired from the previous 48-hours of last-minute frenzied activities. It was a relief to finally The crew of Elysian cast off the dock lines and be out on the water. Elysian’s crew consisted of me, my partner Ann Phillips, and first-time sailor and nephew, Connor Bartram from Alberta. We were sailing along side Miss ”B” Haven, a 29-foot sailboat crewed by good friend Chester (Chet) Beeswanger, and Carol Piper-Curtis from Michigan. Chet was bringing his boat up to Marathon for the summer, so we decided to travel together. 30
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It took us four days to reach Sault Ste. Marie. Normally we’d have covered the distance in half that time, but Elysian developed engine problems which forced us to spend extra time searching out fuel filters at the town of Richard’s Landing. We eventually made it to the Sault and the real start of our journey. The Sault has much to offer the weary boater. Bondar Marina is within walking distance of all manner of shops, pubs, and entertainment. We lingered at the Sault for a couple of days, knowing this was our last chance to enjoy urban comforts for quite some time. Our next planned marina stop wasn’t until Thunder Bay, and that was many miles and many weeks away. There was the possibility of stopping in Wawa, but that would have added days to our journey, so the Sault’s showers and pubs kept us anchored. By the third day, however, Elysian’s crew was feeling the tug of Lake Superior. We made for the Canadian locks, and the open water of Superior. Recreational boaters use the Canadian locks, while the freighters stick to the much larger, and more daunting, American side. Despite never having “locked through” before, the process went quickly and painlessly. The engine was started, lines were released, gates opened, and there it was: the greatest of the Great Lakes lay before us. Unfortunately, this greatest of lakes had not a sniff of wind to offer, so on came the iron-gennie and we motored off, heading for Batchawana Bay. On our way we passed the famous Gros Cap Lighthouse, which is built like the prow of a boat to
cut through shifting winter ice. Entering Batchawana Bay, we rendezvoused with The Miss “B” Haven and her crew, who had left a day earlier from the Sault. That night we rafted together, enjoying each other’s company, and witnessed one of Superior’s stunning sunsets. Heading north the next day we passed close to the wreck of the Edmond Fitzgerald. As the story goes, this mighty Great Lakes freighter sank in a 1975 November gale, just 15 nm north of White Fish Bay. All 29 sailors perished. The crew of Elysian shared a moment of silence as we passed by – a reminder never to take this lake for granted. With full sails up we made slow progress throughout the morning. The weather forecast had been proclaiming “light and variable winds” since departure day more than a week before. We then understood this to mean, “no damn wind today.” – but we are sailors, so we chased every zephyr, and tried to maintain some headway. By noon we had given up, and were once again moving under gasoline power. Our Atomic-4 engine, which had been working perfectly since we left Richard’s Landing, once again went into death throes. Chug, chug, sputter, surge, sputter, plop. “Damn...” I said. What I know about engines can be summed up in one word: nothing. The same goes for the other stalwart members of Elysian’s crew. “Hey! We’re sailors, not engine mechanics!”. It’s hard to be a sailor when there is absolutely no wind. For the next couple of hours we battled with fuel filters, and lack of wind. Each time we got the engine going it ran for a couple of minutes and then died. With the day starting to fade we Elysian being towed by The Miss jumped on the VHF radio and made a call to Miss “B” Haven. They were some distance ahead of us by then, but immediately turned back to come to our aid. A few hours later we were under tow and headed for Sinclair Cove, the nearest anchorage with road access. It was clear we needed professional help. By the time we reached Sinclair the sun had set and the last remnants of light were fading. It was a tight anchorage, and without an engine or wind we had one chance to get the anchor down; but the old Atomic-4 had a few more tricks up it’s sleeve. We fired it up as we came into the harbour entrance, and it caught like there had never been a problem. It ran flawlessly for the next 15 minutes while
we dropped the hook and tied up for the night. The next morning we parted company with Chet and Carol. They were under tighter time-lines than us, and fixing Elysian’s engine was clearly going to take some time. We said our goodbyes, and watched The Miss”B” Haven pass out of sight. Then we turned to the most modern of all conveniences, the satellite phone, and started making calls. Saviours come in many strange and wonderful forms, and ours certainly fit that description. Brad Buck of Buck’s Marina is an angel to many a boater along Canada’s remote Lake Superior shore. From his office up the Michipicoten River he services recreational boats of all sizes and capacities. We spent a week working with Brad via satellite phone, trying to get the old Atomic-4 going. Despite valiant efforts on his part, n o t h i n g worked. It was agreed the only option was to make our way to Buck’s Marina near Wawa. Well, a week spent in paradise is a fine week indeed. While trying various fixes on the engine, The Agawa Rock pictographs we spent time swimming, reading, hiking and exploring the area around Sinclair Cove. The Cove is part of Lake Superior Provincial Park, and is right next to the famous Agawa Rock pictograph site. We dinghied over to get a view of these ancient wonders. With no wind, and only the occasional push from our unreliable engine, we eventually limped our way to the mouth of the Michipicoten River. I called Brad on the phone and he sounded relieved to hear from us. “Where’ve you been?” he asked. “You should have been here days ago. We were starting to get worried.” A short time later he and his son Travis came roaring up in their motor boat, threw us a line, and started towing us up-river to the marina. Buck’s Marina was a welcome respite to the 10 days we’d spent on the water since leaving Sault Ste. Marie. Shower, laundry, and fine dining at Kinniwabi Pines, a local restaurant, renewed our spirits. Just knowing we were in good hands took a load off our minds. The next morning we woke to the clambering sounds of Brad’s son Travis as he boarded our boat, carrying a rather large tool kit with him. “I’m here to fix your engine. Where is it!” Did I mention Travis is 8-years old? We quickly learned not to get in Travis’ way. He leapt down into the engine compartment and got to work. He didn’t fix the engine, but he did manage to help us change the oil and do some minor repairs. Travis clearly knew more than I ever Superior Outdoors
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The lighthouse is on a bluff more than 30 meters high. In 1977, waves from a November storm were so large, they smashed the glass of the lighthouse. Yet another reminder of the power of this lake.
The view from the inside of Battle Island lighthouse
will about engines. Eventually Brad figured out what was going wrong. It seemed our very old fuel tank had some equally old gunk sitting at the bottom. Rolling seas stirred up the gunk and clogged the fuel intake filter. Brad installed “the mother of all fuel filters” in our system, and we were off once again. It had taken nearly two weeks to travel from Sault Ste. Marie to Wawa. We now had two weeks left to travel the remaining twoFishing shack in Old Dave’s Harbour thirds of the distance to Thunder Bay. Luckily, the weather finally switched back to something close to normal, and we had good sailing for the rest of the trip. With steady breezes of 10 to 20 knots we made excellent progress to Marathon. Along the way we anchored in Old Dave’s Harbour on Otter Island just across from Cascade Falls. There were a number of old fishing shacks, as well as the 32
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deteriorating house of the assistant lighthouse keeper. Like all lighthouses, the one on Otter Island was fully automated, but reminders of days gone by still remained. In Marathon we re-connected with Chet, and we spent the next couple of days sailing together to the Slate Islands. It was off the Slate Islands where we encountered those big winds and large seas. As we turned to enter Sunday Harbour our jib sheet snagged on the dinghy that was lashed Battle Island from the deck of the Elysian to the foredeck. Connor leapt onto the heaving deck to untangle the lines and save the day. The Slate Islands were yet another wonderful stopover. Created by an ancient meteor impact, this group of islands is home to one of the most southerly caribou herds in the world. Its lighthouse still guides sailors, although like all others, it is now fully automated.
When we headed out the next morning, we encountered the same high winds and building seas that gave us the big scare the day before; so we made it a short run and headed for the protected harbour on Battle Island near Rossport. The Great Lakes’ lighthouses are all automated, but the last keepers had been granted special access to the remaining houses. We dinghied over to shore and met Bert, a former keeper. He gave us a tour of the lighthouse, and regaled us with stories about Lake Superior’s power. The lighthouse is on a bluff more than 30 meters high. In 1977, waves from a November storm were so large they smashed the glass of the lighthouse: yet another reminder of the power of this lake. As we passed Battle Island we could sense the trip coming to an end. Our next stop at CPR Harbour on St. Ignace Island was an even stronger portent. Built and maintained by local boaters,
Canada's Lake Superior Wild at Heart Pure in Nature
Caribou Expeditions
Goulais River, ON 1-800-970-6662
info@caribou-expeditions.com www.caribou-expeditions.com
Superior Outfitting by these quality companies. Guided Kayak Trips
Naturally Superior Adventures The foot of the sleeping giant
this perfect little nook had docks, buildings and a sauna. It is a Mecca for those who travel these waters, but also a reminder that civilization is coming close. The next two days passed quickly. Thunder Bay’s landmark, the Sleeping Giant, came into focus, and we rounded the toe into the final leg of our long journey. Soon signs of the city were all around us. We had been on the water for almost an entire month, but none of us were racing to get off the boat. Travelling by wind means living on Lake Superior’s terms. Rhythms of the land and sea were part of us, and we were loath to give them up, but give them up we did. We pulled into our dock on Mission Island, said hello to our new home in Thunder Bay, and began planning for our next Lake Superior odyssey.
Wawa, ON 1-800-203-9092
info@naturallysuperior.com www.naturallysuperior.com
Superior Outfitters
Rossport, ON 1-807-824-3314
dtamblyn@nwconx.net www.superioroutfitters.on.ca
paddlers wanted
Sea Kayak Instruction Boat Rentals All located on Lake Superior
Rossport
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Conor Mihell
Selling our Souls to Superior keeping pace with voyageurs BY CONOR MIHELL
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n the French Canadian folklore legend La Chasse Gallerie, a group of lonely voyageurs fly a 36-foot birchbark canoe steered by the devil across a full moon sky back to their citybound sweethearts. If they didn’t meet their steersman’s conditions, however, Lucifer would steal their souls and happiness. In the wee hours of the morning on a long distance sea kayak trip on a full moon night, it seems as though my paddling buddy Dave and I have lost our minds. Superior Outdoors
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Darren McChristie
The sun sets on Agawa Bay
t four in the morning, just as the first chants of “Levé! Levé!” would echo through the quiet lakeside camps of the voyageurs, our descent into Hades begins. Dave and I are no longer talking to one another. The exhaustion of eight hours of continuous sea kayaking has pushed us beyond the point of thoughtful conversation, and small talk no longer comes easily. We are two solitary, The exhaustion of eight hours heavy eyed curmudgeons paddling along separated by of continuous sea kayaking a void of silence and half a has pushed us beyond football field of open water. I watch Dave from the the point of thoughtful corner of my eye, and wonder conversation, and small talk if he does the same to me. no longer comes easily I wonder if I fall asleep and capsize whether or not I’d have the presence of mind to selfrescue myself with an Eskimo roll; if not, I wonder if Dave would pull me out of the water. Our journey began at the mouth of the Michipicoten River near Wawa, Ontario. We planned on a fast-and-light attempt at sea kayaking the Lake Superior coastline south to Agawa Bay in an overnight. While the allure of a 14-hour paddle was dubious, we thought that after paddling a 90-kilometre day we’d better understand the day-to-day routine of the fur trading voyageurs. What’s more, it seemed like a worthy way to celebrate the coming of summer under the full moon of the June solstice. Lake Superior Provincial Park protects a 120-kilometre-long 36
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swath of Lake Superior coast from Agawa Bay to Michipicoten. The coastal corridor is made up of sand beaches and sheer cliffs, like the ones visible from the Trans Canada Highway at Katherine Cove and Old Woman Bay. It’s undeveloped in its entirety and, for the most part, separated from the highway by kilometres of boreal bush and surging rivers. It’s a pleasant and relaxing fiveto seven-day sea kayaking trip for intermediate paddlers. But Dave and I aren’t looking for a rejuvenating wilderness experience. We’re trying to match the pace of the voyageurs, the French Canadian canoemen of 200 years gone by who’d often paddle the entire Michipicoten to Agawa stretch in a single sitting as a part of their summer-long, 3,600kilometre round trip from Montreal to Fort William, present day Thunder Bay. The voyageurs spent several weeks sweating out grueling portages and getting chewed by bugs on the inland waterways between Montreal and French River before reaching the Great Lakes. On lakes Michelle McChristie
A
Tarmo Poldmaa
Two slender kayaks glide along at a jogger’s pace
Huron and Superior, the brigade would hit its stride. Ten to 12 voyageurs would push a 36-foot birchbark canoe along at 10 kilometres per hour, cutting across bays and teasing the fickle temper of the water gods with joyful abandonment. They’re said to have sang, told jokes and had an altogether jovial experience most of the time. Dave and I slide our lightly loaded single sea kayaks into the Michipicoten River in the early evening and ride the current into Superior. While the voyageurs had power in numbers, we have the benefit of paddling slender, long-gliding and durable crafts that cruise along at a jogger’s pace. Less than two hours after starting we’re averaging about nine kilometers per hour and have rounded our first big headland at Beauvier Point; our next target are the cliffs of Old Woman Bay. We’re lucky so far—the lake is calm and the sky cloudless—and we feel strong and are in good spirits. Every The pebble beach in Old Woman Bay half-hour we stop for a dip of water, and as the evening wanes and shadows lengthen we make a brief landfall at Grindstone Point. From Grindstone to Cape Gargantua, the next significant
point of land, the voyageurs would swing their fur-laden canoe offshore and cross a sizeable bay. In doing so they missed out on one of Lake Superior Provincial Park’s prettiest beaches— the remote sand and cobble sweep at the mouth of the Red Rock River—but shaved half a dozen kilometres off the coastal route. We take the same course, following the flickering flash of the Gargantua lighthouse as darkness falls. Like the misled voyageurs of Sometimes the voyageurs would camp on the brown French Canadian myth, we’re sugar sand of Warp Bay at relinquishing our souls and Gargantua and tell stories of the fictional 16th century allowing the devil to plot our Rabelaisian giant who course. reminded them so much of the superhuman Ojibwa trickster Nanabozho. They’d settle in for a bland meal and a short night’s sleep on the cold beach. Eighteen-hour days at the paddle left little time for culinary delights; lard, beans and chewy pemmican were scarfed down at sunset and chased with a swig or two of rum. In the midst of a beautiful night, we hardly notice the grace with which our kayaks knife through the glassy smooth water and the way the bright full moon makes it possible to navigate with ease. Rather, we’re rehearsing a list of complaints ranging from the lack of variety in our provisions (baked beans, in the spirit of the voyageurs) to the way the seemingly velvety water actually has the viscosity of lead. Like the misled voyageurs Superior Outdoors
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imagetech.pdf
of French Canadian myth, we’re relinquishing our souls and allowing the devil to plot our course. And as a new day dawns, Dave and I become separated by silence. My boat feels impossibly sluggish and skittish. I fear falling asleep mid-stroke. Mostly I’m paranoid that if I capsize Dave won’t bother coming to my rescue. We pull off the water for a rest at Katherine Cove at about the same time the voyageurs would’ve been reloading their canoes with tons of furs and trade goods, sliding the fragile crafts into the water and beginning to sing and paddle their way through another day on the lake. The first of dozens of modern day highway voyageurs who will stop for a break from the Trans Canada gawk at two bedraggled guys stumbling incommunicado about the beach. It’s tempting to call it quits, but it’s only an hour or so from here to the Ojibwa pictographs at Agawa Rock and an hour more to our destination at Agawa Bay. We struggle back into our boats and paddle in a dream-like state. The sun rises, and suddenly I’m painfully
5/24/07
12:17:59 AM
Digital SLR
D200
D80
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provided by Conor Mihell
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The author takes a break after a 90 km paddle
aware of the stamina of the voyageurs. I’m fit and healthy, yet in trying to match their daily pace, I’m bagged. Near Agawa Rock we land on a tiny island for a break. In our exhausted state, a watermelon-sized boulder beach appears comfortable, and one last short rest stop turns into a four-hour sleep. I snooze fitfully, dreaming of full moons, flying canoes and the haunting songs of lost brigades. I feel the rounded cobbles reshaping my spine and soul. 38
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D40/D40X
COOLPIX
P5000
S200
1186 Memorial Ave, Thunder Bay, ON (in the McIntyre Centre) 807-622-2012 www.imagetech.biz
Logistics: Allow five to seven days to paddle the full
120-kilometre-long coastline of Lake Superior Provincial Park. In the summer, paddle from north to south to take advantage of the prevailing northwesterlies. Arrange to have your vehicle shuttled from the put-in at the mouth of the Michipicoten River to Agawa Bay—about an hour one way on the Trans Canada Highway. Alternatively, there are many options for shorter overnight and long-weekend trips using intermediate access points at Old Woman Bay, Gargantua and Katherine Cove. Great campsites are a dime a dozen. Favourites include Brule Harbour, Red Rock Bay, Warp Bay, Beatty Cove and Barrett River.
Difficulty: Lake Superior Provincial Park’s wilderness coastline is no place for beginners. There are several no landing zones where westerly winds and a heavy swell can make paddling conditions perilous. Be particularly cautious between Old Woman Bay and Cap Chaillon, as well as around Cape Gargantua and entering Gargantua Harbour. The northern half of the park sees far fewer visitors than the south; in the spring or fall you may have the entire coastline to yourself. Pack extra food and bring along a quality VHF marine radio to pick up the weather forecasts. When to Go: Lake Superior is calmest in May, June, July and early August; expect to be windbound one day per week during this time. From midAugust onwards, weather conditions become less predictable and gales can last two days or more. Expect fog if you’re planning an early season trip. While the water temperature is cold at the best of times, shallow bays warm up and offer great swimming come mid-July. Still, drysuits or wetsuits are highly recommended. Access: Wawa is located about a 2.5-hour drive northwest of Sault Ste. Marie, 5.5-hours east of Thunder Bay, on highway 17. It’s about an hour’s drive between Wawa and Agawa Bay. Intermediate access is available at Old Woman Bay, Gargantua (via a rugged 14-kilometre-long gravel road) and Katherine Cove.
Conor Mihell
Trip Planner
Outfitters and Guided Trips: Caribou Expeditions Goulais River, Ontario 800-970-6662 Naturally Superior Adventures Wawa, Ontario 800-203-9092 Resources:
Guide to Sea Kayaking on Lake Superior and Michigan, by Bill Newman, Sarah Ohmann and Don Dimond (Globe Pequot, 1999). Superior: Under the Shadow of the Gods, by Barbara Chisholm and Andrea Gutsche (Lynx Images, 1999).
Maps (National Topographic Series, 1:50,000) 41 N/15, 41 N/10&11
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reflections
High Falls US/Canadian Border photo by Gregg Johns
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Shuniah Mines Thunder Bay, ON photo by Allan Bruce
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Rod Karhu Creeking on the Current River Thunder Bay, ON photo by Julian Holenstein
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Shawn Robinson on Phantom Crack Palisade Head, MN photo by Nick Buda
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“Checkmate”, “Emotional Rescue” and “TNT” Wednesday Night Series Race Thunder Bay, ON photo by Izabela Pioro
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Sean Ladouceur Mission Marsh Conservation Area Thunder Bay, ON photo by John-Paul Marion
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Jer Bowery Grand Marais, MN Photo by Amy Kukkee
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ŠGaryAndJoanieMcGuffin.com
Joanie McGuffin Early Spring Paddle Lake Superior Photo by Gary McGuffin
Superior Superior Outdoors Outdoors 47 47
The Daily Sentinel and North Shore Miner TUESDAY, AUGUST 8, 1886 AN INTERESTING CANOE TRIP Sixty Miles Down the Kaministiquia in a Bark Canoe One of the Most Delightful Trips to be Found in the Dominion On Friday last the writer had the pleasure of participating in one of the most delightful excursions to be made from this town, a run of some sixty miles down the Kaministiquia river from the station of that name to Fort William. A mere sojourn at Port Arthur with its bracing atmosphere and all the delights of fishing, shooting, boating and yachting excursions is of itself sufficient to repay anyone living in the more eastern parts of the province, where the heat during the summer months is almost unbearable. But the pleasure-seeker may consider his visit comparatively wasted until he has “done� the classic Kam by canoe and enjoyed the stupendous and varied scenery, to which must be added the exhilarating excitement of running the almost continuous rapids from the start to Point du Mueron A party consisting of two ladies and three gentlemen left Port Arthur and took the train for Kaministiquia station, taking with them two birch bark canoes and four Indians to navigate the craft. The Indians carry with them simple material for remedying any injuries which may happen to the boats, it consists only of pine pitch and grease, heated over an extemporized fire in a tin pan. This is applied to the seams of the bark on the outside of the canoe, and as there is considerable bumping and rubbing on the hidden rocks at low water, repairs may be, and on this trip were, several times required. Before starting all seams were thoroughly gone over 48
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and the canoes launched at the old bridge built by Mr.. Dawson nearly twenty years ago. The start was made at noon, much too late for the performance of the trip in one day. After passing over several minor rapids, the roar of a more formidable one is heard ahead, and as it is approached the eyes and senses of our faithful native guides are sharpened as they carefully stand up in their boats and prospect for the more favorable channels in the rapids. Now the current increases and onward we bound skillfully and swiftly, avoiding rocks and boulders immediately in our path. We are about to pass through a seething rush of impetuous water, when suddenly we are brought to a stop by our navigators by using
their poles, having abandoned the paddles in the more critical situations. The portage from above the falls was a long
one, a mile and a half. Here, in order to save time, the whole party carried something, the ladies taking their full share of the burden. Upon reaching the point for re-embarking darkness was setting in, and the Indians very properly objected to going further that night, so there was nothing for it but to make an encampment and remain for the night. At 4 a.m. the camp was aroused, the canoes repaired in the manner before described, and the party was punted up the rapids to an island at the foot of the falls. It was a gorgeous sight at this hour of the morning, the rising sun producing a most perfect rainbow across the spray from the falls. I do not describe these beautiful falls, some 150 feet in height, as they have been so well and often described before. From here there were no more portages, but a series of delightful rapids without too many dangerous rocks. On approaching the Government bridge to the mines the character of the scenery entirely changes, and it very much resembles that to be seen on the Thames in England, only on a much grander and more sublime scale. The first place where it is possible to obtain refreshment is at the Rabbit Mountain ferry which we reached at about 10 a.m.
The balance of the river trip is perhaps the most enjoyable, there being a continuous rapid for many miles, and of sufficient depth to render harmless the rocks. At one place the river is bound up into such a narrow space that the pace of the canoes was astonishing. Fort William was reached at 4 p.m. The narrator of this trip has been some years in this neighborhood but has not happened to take this trip before, and can safely say he has never enjoyed a couple of day’s outing as he did these. The whole trip is one of pleasurable excitement not untinged with a spice of danger which certainly enhances the enjoyment. Not that there is any danger of loss of life, but there is danger of a severe ducking for the whole party at any time. But owing to the skillful and watchful care of our Indian friends even this inconvenience was avoided. Let me repeat that no one coming to Port Arthur should miss taking this trip – one similar to which cannot be found in the Dominion. Photos and article provided by the Thunder Bay Historical Society
Downtown Volkswagen event listing Paddling June 15-17 Slalom Age Group National Championships and 11th Annual St. Louis River Whitewater Rendezvous, Duluth, MN Definitely the most exciting white water kayaking event on the north shore, special weekend packages are available, the event is free for spectators. Contact Randy Carlson (218) 7266177, rcarlso6@d.umn.edu, www. umdrsop.org/kayaking/events June 22-25 10th Annual Rossport Islands Sea Kayak Symposium, Rossport, ON Instructional clinics, interpretive tours, rolling demos, spaghetti dinner, pancake breakfast, and more. Hosted by Superior Outfitters - Coastal Kayaking Adventures. Contact David Tamblyn (807) 824-3314, dtamblyn@nwconx. net, www.nwconx.net/~dtamblyn/ index.htm June 22-24 Summer Solstice Festival, Duluth, MN This Festival includes a midnight 5K run, kayak races, a demo beach, kids camp and more. Contact Midnight Sun Adventure Company (218) 727-1330, www. midnightsunsports.com June 30 Grand Kam Canoe & Kayak Race, Old Fort William, Thunder Bay, ON Come out and support the Children’s Centre Foundation by participating in either the 20 km competitive race or 5 km recreational tour on the historic Kaministiquia River. There is a short course for children (accompanied by an adult), a luncheon and prizes such as two tickets from Westjet for the participant that raises the most money. Entry forms are available at The Wilderness Supply Company, Wildwaters, and Chaltrek/Ostrom Outdoors. Contact Diane Ambro (807) 628-4846, ambro@tbaytel.net, www.childrenscentre.ca 50
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June 30 (& July 30, August 28) Full Moon Sea Kayak Paddle, Duluth, MN Enjoy the magic of a full moon over Lake Superior! This 2.5 hour program includes equipment sizing, on land instruction (basic sea kayaking technique and safety), followed by a paddle along the shoreline of Lake Superior or the scenic Park Point Harbor Side. This is a guided and outfitted trip, no previous experience needed. Contact Midnight Sun Adventure Company (218) 727-1330, www.midnightsunsports.com July 4 4th of July Fireworks Paddle, Duluth, MN Celebrate the 4th of July out on the water! Paddle out for the best unobstructed view of Duluth’s fantastic fireworks display. This 2.5 hour program includes equipment sizing, on land instruction (basic sea kayaking technique and safety), followed by a paddle along the shoreline of Lake Superior or the scenic Park Point Harbor Side. This is a guided and outfitted trip, no previous experience needed. Contact Midnight Sun Adventure Company (218) 727-1330, www.midnightsunsports.com July 20-21 Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Race Festival, Thunder Bay, ON Free admission, entertainment, food, arts and crafts at Boulevard Lake. Contact (807) 768-4407, www. thunderbaydragonboat.com July 20-22 Women on the Water - Three Day Sea Kayaking Adventure, Rossport, ON Come explore our inland sea. Home to the largest archipelago of islands found anywhere on Lake Superior, Rossport offers rugged beauty, incredible bird life and a protective harbour perfect for a sea kayaking journey. With a focus on skills and safety, Element of Adventure will guide you on a weekend
of connection, exploration and wonder. Contact Sue Holloway (807) 473-4599, www.elementofadventure.ca July 26-29 North Shore Dragon Boat Festival, Grand Marais, MN A paddling adventure and weekend celebration that welcomes outdoor enthusiasts and dragon boat paddlers. Located on the Grand Marais Harbor, this event supports the work of three area non-profit organizations, www. northshoredragonboat.com July 28 13th Annual Canoe Regatta and Corn Roast, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, ON Celebrate the joy of canoeing at Rainbow Falls with a weekend of canoe instruction/excursions and great activities. Enjoy a high spirited afternoon of canoe races and games, topped off with a delicious treat of corn barbecued in the husk. Contact (807) 824-2298 August 3-5 10th Annual Two Harbors Sea Kayak Festival, Two Harbors, MN This festival offers several categories of kayak races, local exhibitors, kayak equipment demos, beginning level instructional tours, advanced clinics, kids kayaking, gear swap, food and fun, and more. Contact (218) 525-9806, registration@kayakfestival.org, www. kayakfestival.org August 5-10 Voyageur Canoe Musical Tour from Rossport to Red Rock, ON Join your fellow voyageurs in our roomy, stable, 36-foot-long replica fur trade canoe and explore the intricacies of Lake Superior’s Rossport and St. Ignace islands on your way to the Red Rock Folk and Blues Festival. This year, paddlers will be accompanied by musician, songwriter, playwright, Ian Tamblyn. Contact David Wells, Naturally Superior Adventures (800) 203-9092, www.naturallysuperior.com
August 17-19 Women on the Water - Three Day Canoeing Expedition, Thunder Bay, ON An introductory experience designed for women with adventurous spirits but limited time. The days will be a combination of instruction, paddling and play with time to sit back, relax and savour. Contact Sue Holloway (807) 473-4599, www.elementofadventure.ca August 24-25 Lake Superior Dragon Boat Festival, Duluth, MN An annual fundraising event organized by the Superior Rotary Club and Duluth’s Harbortown Rotary Club. The race is held in the Superior Bay off Barkers Island in Superior, Wisconsin and includes a traditional dragon boat race as well as a host of other exciting and entertaining festivities. www. lakesuperiordragons.com August 24-26 Lake Superior Goes Greenland - Traditional Paddling Symposium, Wawa, ON Learn to sea kayak Greenland-style. Ontario’s only Greenland-style sea kayaking symposium brings North America’s finest instructors to Naturally Superior Adventures’ Lake Superior Paddling Centre. The symposium includes Greenland-style games, and is suitable for paddlers of all levels, paddles provided. Contact David Wells at Naturally Superior Adventures (800) 203-9092, www.naturallysuperior.com September 3-4 Sleeping Giant Canoe & Kayak Family Weekend, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, ON This weekend is full of activities for the entire family such as canoeing and kayaking demos, a tandem kayak race, informative slide shows, and much more. Contact (807) 977-2526
Biking, Climbing, Running & Hiking June 9 4th Annual Canyon Country Run, Dorion, ON A fundraiser for the Heart and Stroke Foundation, the event includes 5, 10, and 15 km runs, luncheon, and prizes. Contact Catherine (807) 887-4408 June 9 Women’s Rock Climbing Clinic, Thunder Bay Area, Location TBA This clinic is open to all levels of climbers and is limited to six participants (so call early to reserve your spot). Come out to work on specific technical skills or simply to enjoy a day of climbing. Contact Jenn (807) 683-6421 June 16 Grandma’s Marathon, Duluth, MN More than a 26.2 mile race, Grandma’s Marathon is a celebration of running with live entertainment, fabulous food, health & fitness expo and activities for the whole family. Contact (218) 7270947, grandmas@grandmasmarathon. com, www.grandmasmarathon.com June 23-24 9th Annual 24-Hour Mountain Bike Marathon for MS, Kamview Nordic Centre, Thunder Bay, ON If you and your friends enjoy mountain biking and having a good time then the MS Society 24 hours of Kamview is for you. Help raise money and awareness to fight Multiple Sclerosis, win awards and prizes, eat great food, get exercise and socialize, help someone with a crippling disease and have a great time. www.msthunderbay.com/kamview/ index.htm June 24 Dirt Spanker Classic, Mont Du Lac Ski Area, Duluth, MN The Dirtspanker has been labeled one of the top race courses in the Midwestern States. With a five mile
loop that consists of leg burning climbs, screaming descents and rolling singletrack, it challenges every rider. This course offers something for everyone. Contact Ross Fraboni, ross66coe@hotmail.com June 30 2nd Annual Duluth Duathlon, Duluth, MN The race starts at Lester Park and consists of three legs, 3.1 mile trail run, a 20.4 mile road bike, and a 3.3 mile trail run. Register at active.com or midwestsports.com. Contact Clayton Keim, Keim0017@d.umn.edu, www. duluthduathlon.com July 21 Parks Day, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, MN Experience the beauty and spectacular views at Rainbow Falls. Hike the Superior Trail, the Back 40 Trail, or the Rainbow Falls Trail. Contact the park for further information on other activities offered for Parks Day. Contact (807) 824-2298 July 28 Thunder Bay Triathlon, and Duathlon, Thunder Bay, ON Held at Boulevard Lake, participants may enter either as individuals or as a team. There is also a “fat tire” category for mountain bikers (no slicks), and a family participation award for the family with the greatest number of athletes, participating in both the Kids of Steel and Adult Triathlons combined. Contact (800) 785-2877, www.thunderbaytriathlon.com July 28 Kids of Steel Triathlon, Thunder Bay, ON Held at Boulevard Lake, this is a pintsized version of the triathlon with distances and events tailored to specific age groups. This Triathlon is one of nine such events across Ontario, youths that compete in one or more events collect series points. Contact (800) 785-2877, www.thunderbaytriathlon.com Superior Outdoors
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Downtown Volkswagen event listing August 11 Paju Mountain Run, Red Rock, ON A unique road race that covers 11.5 km from the Town of Red Rock to the summit of Paju Mountain. The event provides a challenge to all classes of runners and walkers. Contact the Recreation Department, (807) 8862284, rcentre@tbaytel.net August 19 Powder Monkey, Spirit Mountain, Duluth, MN Racers that make the trip up to Duluth for the Powder Monkey Mountain Bike Race will be treated to one wild ride. The race course is a singletrack loop on mountainous terrain - a challenge for all levels of mountain bikers. Contact Bill Howard, bill@hhexports.com August 22 Up & Down Relay Race and BBQ, Thunder Bay, ON This race is held at the former Mount McKay Ski Area on the Fort William First Nation. A BBQ, games (e.g. bike limbo) and draws will be held after the race. Contact the Black Sheep Mountain Bike Club, (807) 624-4270, www.blacksheepmtb.com August 25 Sawtooth Challenge Mountain Bike Races & Festival, Grand Marais, MN This is a family-oriented festival celebrating fitness and safety, with plenty of opportunities to get out and ride in the unique wilderness terrain surrounding Grand Marais. Events include a pre-race pasta dinner, 20km Mountain Bike and 5km Run, Kid’s Bike Safety Rodeo and Scenic Bike Tours. Proceeds from the events benefit the Cook County Food Shelf. Non-perishable food items will be collected at all Sawtooth Challenge events. Contact Superior North Outdoor Centre (218) 387-2186, info@sawtoothchallenge.com, www. sawtoothchallenge.com September 9 8th Annual Pride of Canada Marathon and Half Marathon, Thunder Bay, ON 52
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The Pride of Canada boasts the only certified course in Northwestern Ontario. The course is known to be fast because it is flat and well-planned to avoid long straight stretches. The course utilizes a network of paved recreational trails, and trees provide shelter from the wind and sun. This year, entrance fees are waived for members of the military and their families (see website for details). Whether you are a beginner or hoping to qualify for Boston, this run is for you. Contact Gary Young (807) 577-1582, gary@prideofcanadamaratho n.com, www.prideofcanada.com
2944, www.msthunderbay.com
September 15 Cross County Round-up Mountain Bike Festival, Thunder Bay, ON This festival is held at Centennial Park and is the final event in Thunder Bay’s mountain bike season. Contact the Black Sheep Mountain Bike Club, (807) 624-4270, www.blacksheepmtb. com
Arts & Culture
September 29 10th Annual Hike for Health, Red Rock, Ontario The Hike for Health benefits local charities and is organized by the Land of Nipigon Waterways Rotary Club. The day starts with a complimentary breakfast, followed by transportation to and from the hiking trail. There are loads of prizes for participants, the event is suitable for all ages, and participation from across the north shore is welcomed and encouraged. Contact (807) 887-3138, rcentre@tbaytel.net September 30 2nd Annual Bell Urban Adventure, Thunder Bay, ON A fundraiser for the Multiple Sclerosis Society, the Bell Urban Adventure is building on the success of their 2006 event. Participants will navigate Thunder Bay in the Ultimate Physical Challenge with activities including an obstacle course, a canoe or kayak obstacle course, a batting competition, primitive tasking exercises and climbing and rappelling. Contact (807) 344-
October 19 Edmund Fitz 100 km Run, Duluth, MN Since 1982, this event has seen the greatest runners in the world tackle the scenic and challenging point to point course. The race starts near Finland and finishes at Brighton Beach, Gitchi Gumi Park. The event includes individual races with distances of 50 and 100 km, a 105 km team relay race. Contact Eric Stetz, estetz@visi.com, www.edmundfitz.com
June 7-13 Duluth on Lake Superior Writers’ Workshop, Duluth, MN The workshop will be held on the university’s campus overlooking Lake Superior and will feature six days of creative-writing sessions in fiction, poetry, memoir and biography. Contact the University of Minnesota-Duluth (218) 726-8146, www.d.umn.edu/goto/ writers June 21-23 5th Annual Echoes Drum Festival, Sault Ste. Marie, ON Drumming is an important ceremonial component of almost all cultures, and is the inspiration for this event. Come and enjoy the all night drumming circle, First Nation drummers, women’s hand drum groups and drum-making classes. There will be activities and entertainment for all ages, displays by a variety of craftspeople, artists, and vendors. Contact Jackie Fletcher (705) 253-381, jfletcher_mcfn@hotmail.com, www.echoesdrumfestival.com June 22-24 Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival, Grand Marais, MN North House’s biggest celebration of its educational mission. Harbor-side activities, music, food, demonstrations, workshops and much more. Featured guests are Garrett and Alexandra
Conover, professional canoe and snowshoe guides based in Maine. Garrett is the author of Beyond the Paddle and, together, they co-authored, the Snow Walker’s Companion. Contact (888) 387-9762, info@northhouse.org, www.northhouse. org June 23-24 Park Point Art Fair, Park Point Recreational Area, Duluth, MN For 37 years the Park Point Community Club’s signature event has been the art fair. This is a juried art fair of original, handmade work in clay, jewelry, glass, fiber, sculpture, photography, wood, painting, leather, two and three dimensional mixed media. Contact (218) 428-1916, www. parkpointcommunityclub.org June 30 - July 1 Digital Photography Workshop, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON The creative two day workshop is designed for those who are familiar with the workings of their digital camera, and are looking for inspiring ways to improve their photography skills. Explore various photographic genres with Hubert den Draak, a photographer and filmmaker who has worked all over the world. Contact (807) 474-3968, www. NolaluEcoCentre.org July 1 Canada Day Celebrations, Pukaskwa National Park, ON The festivities include a Pipe Ceremony to open the Anishinaabe Encampment, Aboriginal drumming, raising of the four colours flag, bannock and berries at the Anishinaabe Encampment and a sunset ceremony. Contact (807) 2290801, ont-pukaskwa@pc.gc.ca, www. pc.gc.ca/pn-np/on/pukaskwa July 6-8 6th Annual Thunder Bay Blues Festival, Thunder Bay, ON Enjoy the view of the Sleeping Giant while listening to musicians such as the Downchild Blues Band, Colin James,
the Jeff Healey Blues Band, and more. The festival is held at Marina Park and is a must for anyone who enjoys live music, www.tbayblues.ca July 12-16 The Great Rendezvous, Fort William Historical Park, Thunder Bay, ON The Great Rendezvous celebrates the spirit of the Canadian fur trade with re-enactors from across the continent. It includes artisan workshops and the grand canoe arrival. Contact (807) 4732344, www.fwhp.ca July 14-15 Arts Fair and Festival, Grand Marais, MN This is an outdoor event on the shore of Lake Superior, the juried show includes only original works and is sponsored by the Grand Marais Art Colony. Contact (800) 385-9585, arts@boreal.org, www. grandmaraisartcolony.org/arts_festival. htm August 2-5 Fisherman’s Picnic, Grand Marais, MN This event offers a wide variety of activities, games, contests, live music, fireworks, and special food (fishburgers, of course!), www.grandmarais.com or www.gmlions.com August 3-5 13th Annual Music Jamboree, MacLeod Provincial Park, Greenstone, ON Enjoy a musical weekend in the park, hosted by the municipality of Greenstone. Contact (807) 854-0370, www.geraldtonjamboree.ca August 4-6 Blueberry Blast Festival, Nipigon, ON This weekend features various family events and loads of blueberries. Shuttles will transport pickers to and from blueberry patches; come and celebrate and have a berry nice time. Contact (807) 887-2006, info@nipigon.net August 9-12 19th Annual Bayfront Blues Festival, Duluth, MN
This music festival features a variety of blues artists performing on three stages, www.bayfrontblues.com August 10-12 22nd Annual Nostalgia Days, Neys Provincial Park, ON Celebrate the rich cultural history of Neys Provincial Park. This fun-filled weekend includes a spirit campfire, games, bannock bread, a scavenger hunt and a theatrical presentation the whole family will enjoy. Contact (807) 2291624 August 9-12 4th Annual Live from the Rock Folk Festival, Red Rock, ON This is a three day festival celebrating the arts on the beautiful shores of Lake Superior. The Festival is located in Pulla Log Park, on site camping is available. Bring a friend, lawn chair, tarp and cash - the vendor’s area includes a variety of arts and crafts, tasty treats, CDs and festival souvenirs. www. livefromtherock.com August 10-12 Grand Portage Rendezvous, Grand Portage, MN Re-enactors from across the country and Canada gather to camp and challenge each other to games and skills from our historic past. Music, dancing, craft demonstrations and hands-on workshops ensure an exciting weekend at the Grand Portage National Monument, www.npg.gov/grpo August 13-19 Plein Air Festival, Thunder Bay, ON During this outdoor arts festival, artists are encouraged to use the scenery from the watershed to create original works. The Festival includes an art sale at Hazelwood Lake Conservation Area on August 18-19, and awards will be presented to the works voted as favorites by the public. Contact the Lakehead Region Conservation Authority (807) 345-5857, www. lakeheadca.com
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Downtown Volkswagen event listing Aug 18-19 Ojibwa Keeshigun Native Festival, Thunder Bay, ON Experience Aboriginal culture with traditional dancing, singing & drumming at Old Fort William. Enjoy tasty treats & join in the bannock making contest. www.fwhp.ca August 24-26 Sleeping Giant Writers Festival, Thunder Bay, ON This Festival offers a series of workshops on specific writing genres and is held at the Prince Arthur Waterfront Hotel & Suites, www. sleepinggiantwriters.com August 24 – September 1 Pleine Aire Outdoor Painting Competition, Grand Marais, MN Art work created on location in Cook County following the European tradition of pleine aire outdoor painting. Artists’ reception, judging, cash prizes, public viewing & purchasing at the exhibition sale. Come paint the Natural Beauty of Lake Superior’s North Shore. www. grandmaraisartcolony.org/pleine.htm August 31 – September 2 Bayou Boogie Festival, Grand Portage, MN Enjoy a weekend of Cajun music, cuisine & culture. www.grandportage. com/bayouboogie.html September 8 Riverfest, Thunder Bay, ON Reconnect, discover and celebrate the River at the Kaministiquia River Heritage Park. Events include tours of the historic James Whalen Tug Boat, live entertainment and activities for the whole family. Contact (807) 625-2487, www.thunderbay.ca September 13-16 Bay Street Film Festival, Thunder Bay, ON This festival features local, national and international film and video, and provides a meeting place to share ideas and spark collaborations. The 54
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Bay Street area is the heart of Thunder Bay’s Scandinavian community and has several restaurants and shops, www. baystreetfilmfestival.ca September 28-30 Unplugged VI - The Northern Harvest, Grand Marais, MN Help secure the North House’s future by participating in a weekend filled with fantastic music, slow food, an international guest artisan, thoughtful conversation and relaxation on campus. Contact (888) 387-9762, info@northhouse.org, www.northhouse. org
Environmental
June (various dates) Lifelong Ecological Consciousness Community Learning Program, Thunder Bay, ON The focus of this program is on understanding ecological systems, our role within these systems and how these systems impact our lives. Dr. Tom Puk, Professor of Ecological Consciousness, will help you gain a new perspective on living, knowing that others are striving for the same harmonious future. This program is open to all citizens, contact Rachel McGuiness (807) 623-6055, rackai@tbaytel.net June 1-3 Boreal Birding & Northern Landscapes Festival, Grand Marais, MN With a focus on sharing the excitement and curiosity of field exploration, time spent in the field is complemented by opportunities to relax and share conversation. Whether you are working on your ‘birding life list’, curious about rocks, or simply hoping to explore northern forests, participants of all ages and abilities are welcome. Contact (888) 387-9762, info@northhouse.org, www.northhouse.org June 2 Lake Superior Watershed Festival, Duluth, MN Family friendly event with entertainment, children’s activities
and seminars throughout the day. Contact (218) 723-4867, www. lakesuperiorstreams.org/zaagidawaa June 2 15th Annual National Trails Day, Statewide in Minnesota This day emphasizes the importance of trails and the need to maintain them. www.americanhiking.org/events/ntd/ June 8 Strawbale Construction Workshop, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON Come and learn about strawbale buildings with Shawn Hayer of Green Planet Homes Inc. Shawn will discuss the history and philosophy of strawbale construction and its place amidst modern construction techniques. Contact (807) 474-3968, www. NolaluEcoCentre.org June 16 Thunder Bay Field Naturalists, Finger Point Trail Field Trip, Thunder Bay, ON This is a 5 km trail, moderate climbing is required on the last portion of the trail. The hike starts at the Ontario information building at Pigeon River. Bring lunch (and insect repellant!), confirmation of attendance is required. Contact Brian Moore (807) 344-2986, www.tbfn.net/trips.htm June 16 Organic Vegetable Gardening for Beginners, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON What does it take to have an organic green thumb in the north? This workshop will discuss the benefits of gardening organically, the basics of composting, soil building, natural fertilizers and pest control. Participants will receive a handbook full of resources and tips from a variety of local gardeners. Contact (807) 474-3968, www.NolaluEcoCentre.org June 17 Composting Techniques, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON Learn the basics of composting, the
pros and cons of different types of composters and how to build your own backyard or indoor (vermi) composter. Get the dirt on “humanure” and take a look at the Eco Centre’s composting toilets. Contact (807) 474-3968, www. NolaluEcoCentre.org June 30 Sugarloaf Cove First Annual Open House and Plein Aire Artists’ Event, Sugarloaf Cove, MN Learn about the history and ecology of this beautiful and unique site on the North Shore. Artists and photographers are invited to spend the day capturing the Cove in their art, and to donate 50% of any sales to restoration programs at the Cove. The goal of this event is to raise awareness and encourage mutual appreciation for environmental stewardship and the arts on the North Shore. Contact (218) 525-0001, andrew@sugarloafnorthshor e.org, www.sugarloafica.org July 7 & August 4 Brew Your Own Bio-diesel, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON Using bio-diesel saves money while decreasing our fossil fuel dependency and ecological footprint. Learn more about the benefits and limitations of bio-diesel, and a simple method of making it from vegetable oil. Contact (807) 474-3968, www. NolaluEcoCentre.org July 8 Sustainable Homestead Food Skills, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON Homestead canning and pickling techniques have been all but forgotten, yet they make yummy and sustainable food at an affordable price. Foods preserved in this manner are healthy and nutritious – and you can do it yourself. This workshop will teach you the basics with hands-on practice. Contact (807) 474-3968, www. NolaluEcoCentre.org July 10 Dragonfly Symposium, Thunder Bay, Presented by Waabi-ma’iingan (Grey
Wolf ) Traditional Teaching Lodge, the dragonfly symposium aims to promote alternative ways of learning about, and interacting with the natural world. The morning will have a more scientific focus with presentations and field studies. The afternoon will include traditional teachings and hands-on activities. Increase your understanding of this magnificent creature and its role within the ecosystem, participation is encouraged from all ages and cultures. Contact Cindy (888) 852-5856, (807) 473-9851, www.blueskyteachinglodge. ca July 13-15 Lake Superior Sand & Sun Weekend, Neys Provincial Park, ON A weekend of exciting family programs by the Natural Heritage Education staff , enjoy the spectacular Superior sand & sun while strolling down the beautiful beach. Contact (807) 229-1624 July 15 Lake Superior Day, Lakewide The Lake Superior Binational Forum looks forward to a successful Lake Superior Day this and every year, and hopes each community will join the celebrations taking place around the lake. Contact the US Forum Coordinator at (715) 682-1489, lakesuperiorday@northland.edu, or the Canadian Forum Coordinator at (807) 343-8811, bnicol@lakeheadu.ca August 10-12 Festival of the Giant, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park , ON Join us for the 21st annual Festival of the Giant, this is a great event for the entire family. Hosted by the Friends of Sleeping Giant, Contact (807) 9772526 August 11 Green Building & Renos, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON This workshop will address the question of “what is green?” and will examine the difference between various types of building materials and methods. Contact (807) 474-3968,
www.NolaluEcoCentre.org September 15 Beach Sweep, Lakewide The annual volunteer clean-up of Lake Superior’s shoreline, volunteer some of your time to help keep our shoreline clean. Contact local information centers. September 15 The Wild Wacky Weather, Nolalu Eco Centre, Nolalu, ON Is the weather becoming “wilder” or “wackier”? If so, what is happening and what can we expect in the future? This workshop (instructed by Graham Saunders) will explore some of the basics of weather systems and consider some of the unique effects that Lake Superior and other local features have on the weather. Contact (807) 4743968, www.NolaluEcoCentre.org September 19-21 Sault Ste. Marie Source Water Festival, Sault Ste. Marie, ON The goal of this Festival is to educate students about the importance of water conservation, protection, technology and ecology. Contact Christine Aasan, caasen@ssmrca.ca September 26-27 Children’s Water Festival, Thunder Bay, ON The Thunder Bay Children’s Water Festival provides hands-on activities, discussions, demonstrations, displays and exhibits that challenge students to consider the importance of groundwater and surface water. Contact Joanne Wolnik, (807) 344-5857, www. lakeheadca.com October 29-31 Making a Great Lake Superior 2007, Duluth, MN This conference links research, education and management of the lake and will be held at the Duluth Entertainment Convention Center. Co-hosted by the Great Lakes Sea Grant Network, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Lake Superior Superior Outdoors
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The Long Eared Owl Asio otus
photo by Tom Gvora
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