Superior Outdoors Gray Wolf
delisted again pg. 24
magazine
Quetico Superior 100 years of Wilderness Bedazzled by Basalt Geological Delights in the NMCA
P.30
Mysterious Michipicoten Exploring the Scattered Remains of
Protection P.50
Closer to Home The Superior Hiking Trail P.30
Michipicoten Island P.36
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contents
features
Mysterious Michipicoten
Exploring the Scattered Remains of Michipicoten Island
Quetico Superior
34
100 years of Wilderness Protection
50
by Jon Nelson
by Conr Mihell
Bedazzled by Basalt
Geological Delights in the NMCA
42
Closer to Home
Hking the Superior Hiking Trail
64
by Jon Heller
Intro 3
Adventure Travel 15
Updates 4
Routes 17
Weather 5
Arts and Literature 23
Superior Styles 7
Reflections 42
Sustainable Developments 8
Event Listing 56
The Food Chain 13
Perspective 60
John B Ridley Research Library
departments P.30
Tom Theodoropoulos
P.21 On the cover: From the book QUETICO Into the Wild Two portages and three days into a 26-day adventure paddling through Quetico Deux Rivières, Quetico Provincial Park Photo by: Gary McGuffin Šgaryandjoaniemcguffin.com
This page: Bedazzled by Basalt Photo by: Kas Stone
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opeN all
Year LONG
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Amazing...just got Spectacular!
Editor-in-chief/Design Darren McChristie Art Director John-Paul Marion Contributing Editor Michelle McChristie
Copy Editors Wanda Ewachow, Tiffany Jarva Business Manager Doug McChristie
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Contributing Writers Keith Ailey, Nick Buda, Brent Gibson, Kevin Green, Jon Heller, Tiffany Jarva, John-Paul Marion, Darren McChristie, Michelle McChristie, Conor Mihell, Jon Nelson, Graham Saunders, Kas Stone Contributing Photographers Jim Brandenburg, Nick Buda, Michael Cameron, Jarron Childs, Scott Elgie, Aarre Ertolahti, Kevin Green, Bryan Hansel, Jon Heller, Amy Kukkee, Zach Kruzins, Darren McChristie, Gary McGuffin, Conor Mihell, Peter Moore, Jayasimha Murthy, Jon Nelson, Lee Oelke, Aaron Peterson, Gerry Racey, Kas Stone, Tom Theodoropoulos Publisher The Boreal Company
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Advertising Sales/Distribution Michelle McChristie Superior Outdoors is published twice a year: Summer (May) and Winter (November) Copyright Š 2009 by The Boreal Company, All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without written permission is strictly forbidden. Views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. Editorial and Advertising: Submissions must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Superior Outdoors cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material. IF UNDELIVERABLE RETURN TO: The Boreal Company Suite 242, 1100 Memorial Avenue, Thunder Bay, Ontario P7B 4A3 Telephone (807) 627-3017; Fax (807) 623-5122 E-mail: info@superioroutdoors.ca Disclaimer: the activities described and illustrated herein are performed by trained athletes and could result in serious bodily injury; do not attempt them without proper training, safety equipment, and supervision. The Boreal Company is not responsible for injuries sustained by readers or failure of equipment described or illustrated herein. ISSN Number 1913-444 Canada Post Publications Agreement Number 41497554 Printed in Canada on Acid and Elemental Chlorine Free, Post-Consumer Recycled Paper Superior Outdoors Inc donates 1% of all sales to 1% for the Planet www.onepercentfortheplanet.com
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O
ne of the first recorded accounts of wilderness protection occurred during medieval times. It was during the reign of William the Conqueror in the 11th Century that the word “forests” became legalese. King William enacted the forest law and forbid subsistence hunting and harvesting by peasants in large tracts of land. The law ensured a successful hunt for the ruling class and entailed cruel and harsh penalties for violators - mutilation or death. Despite their self-serving motivations, one could say that medieval kings laid the groundwork for a system of parks and protected areas. As western society evolved, our governments realized that all people need natural spaces for subsistence, recreation and spiritual reasons. In 1909, the governments of Ontario and the United States created Quetico Park and the Superior National Forest. In the case of Quetico, the management system has changed and the list of permissible activities has whittled. Timber harvesting was ceased in the early 1970s and, more recently, the use of live bait was banned. Quetico is, by definition, a “wilderness park” – a large area left to nature where visitors may travel on foot or by canoe in the solitude of an undisturbed, natural setting. The Superior National Forest is part of the US National Forest System. Its management includes a variety of land uses including timber harvesting, mining and recreation. Since its creation, the Superior National Forest has seen its share of land use debates as people struggle to find a harmonious balance. Both areas have significant ecological and cultural value and, combined, they are regarded by many as one of the best wilderness canoe sanctuaries in the world. In this issue, we commemorate the Quetico Superior centennial with an excerpt from Jon Nelson’s book Quetico: Near to Nature’s Heart, a map featuring snapshots from Quetico’s past, and Tiffany Jarva’s account of the high tech methods used to update the park’s Forest Resource Inventory. The reasons for conserving or protecting wilderness vary and debates over land use within these areas will continue indefinitely. In the meantime, let’s pay homage to the people that had the foresight to set aside these spaces for us to enjoy. As for that forest that was so vehemently protected by William the Conqueror, it was designated as the New Forest National Park in 2005.
intro Eastern White Cedar
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updates Daniel Klassen
A Few Changes
Concern Citizens for Michipicoten Bay OMB Hearing Wraps Up
Zach Kruzins
In the summer of 2007, we covered a story about a group of concerned citizens that had united to oppose a proposed aggregate quarry (“Concerned Citizens Fight Aggregate Extraction”). The company, Superior Aggregates, purchased a 385-hectare parcel of land in 1999 and has applied to amend the Township of Michipicoten’s Official Plan to re-zone the quarry area. When the Township approved the amendment, the Concerned Citizens for Michipictoen Bay (CCMB) appealed to the Ontario Municipal Board (OMB). With the generous support of its members and non-government organizations such as MiningWatch Canada and the Great Lakes Aquatic Habitat Network and Fund, the CCMB assembled a dedicated and professional team, including legal and scientific experts, to support their case. After four weeks of testimony and arguments, the OMB Hearing into Superior Aggregates’ application closed on April 30, 2009. The Board Chair will now review the testimony, exhibits, and arguments and render a decision. Stay tuned to www.ccmb.com for updates.
You might notice a few changes in this issue. In particular, the event listing has moved from the magazine to www.SuperiorOutdoors.ca. It remains the most comprehensive listing of outdoor, environmental and arts and culture events in the Lake Superior basin but now has the benefit of live weblinks. As always, if you have an event that you would like us to include, send an email to info@superioroutdoors.ca. Since we launched Superior Outdoors in 2007, we have received numerous requests from readers about ecotourism destinations in the Lake Superior basin. Our new site, www.SuperiorEcoTour. com, will set the new standard for travel information for theLake Superior Circle Tour. Using maps and search forms, this easy to use website connects interested travelers to an array of information on activities, events, attractions and environmentally conscious businesses around the lake. We will be adding to this website regularly and welcome your feedback or questions.
Research Deemed a Success
from left - Jessica Johnson, Dr. Rob Stewart, Aaron Nicholson and Zach Kruzins
Last summer, three undergraduate students from Lakehead University embarked on a research expedition to complete fieldwork for their theses (“University Students Focus Research on Lake Superior NMCA,” SO Summer 2008). Their research included an examination of ecological sensitivity of coastal zones within the NMCA and their efforts have built a foundation upon which Lakehead University students and faculty can expand research on Lake Superior. Visit www.superioroutdoors.ca for updates. Superior Outdoors
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Bryan Hansel
6
Superior Outdoors
weather
Avoid the Ash Most of us are quite familiar with classic summer storms – darkening sky, abrupt freshening winds - quickly followed by flashes of lightning. Counting one thousand, two thousand and so on, gives us an estimate of distance and how fast the storm is approaching. Lightning is awe inspiring although the power and consequences can be ferocious. It can convert trees into shrapnel and in an average year starts more than 4,000 forest fires in Canada. Lightning can be fatal. Of the 110 people struck by lightning in Canada in a typical year, about 90 percent survive. However, it is said that most survivors are never the same again. Lightning travels through the sky at thousands of kilometres per second. At 28,000 degrees C, lightning is considerably hotter than the surface of the sun. This sudden rise in temperature causes the air in the immediate vicinity to expand rapidly. This is immediately followed by compression and creates the sounds that we hear as thunder which travel outwards from the flash. Lightning occurs only in cumulonimbus clouds which extend below and above the freezing level. Ice crystals and hail frequently collide because of updrafts and downdrafts within such clouds. In lab experiments it was observed that, even with extremely cold temps, a thin layer of liquid water often exists on the frozen ice particles which enhanced transfer of positive or negative charges to hail/ice particles. Most lightning takes place within individual clouds or cloud-to-cloud. Aircraft pilots attempt to avoid such situations because extreme turbulence is likely to be present. Commercial planes are occasionally struck by lightning. However the outer skin is mainly aluminum, a very good conductor of electricity. This disperses the charge and shields the interior, although occasionally, flight instruments and computers are temporarily affected. About 20 percent of lightning occurs as cloud-to-ground. In the lower part of a Cumulonimbus cloud electric potential
gradients estimated at 3 million volts per metre are present. Leaders descend from the cloud base in rapid, staggered steps of 50 to 100 metres toward the ground. As the final leader approaches, a spark from ground level moves up and a connection is established. These stepped leaders are very faint and usually invisible to the human eye though sometimes can be captured in photographs. The bolts look huge, but channels are merely centimetres wide. Benjamin Franklin got away with his kite and string experiment with lightning – don’t try this at home! It was a foolhardy exercise since wet kite strings provide an excellent path to earth for lightning strokes. It is remarkable that he survived; many people have been killed while trying to repeat the experiment. As the electrons approach the ground, a positive (usually) charge moves up through any conducting object, such as trees, buildings, and even humans. The upward return stroke that meets the stepped leader is most likely to originate from such objects. It may be tempting to stand under a large tree during an electrical storm to avoid rain. Alas, this tree may provide the conduit for the final connection between ground and cloud. And some tree species are more dangerous than others, depending in part on their moisture content. About 40 percent of people struck annually are under trees. If you are caught outdoors during a lightning storm, seek shelter in a building or vehicle with windows closed. If shelter cannot be found, crouch down and reduce the area of contact with the ground. Do not lie flat. Graham Saunders Folklore offers a repeat of the above advice: Beware of the oak - it draws the stroke; Avoid an ash - it courts the flash; Creep under the thorn - it will save you from harm.
A lightning storm over the harbour in Grand Marais, Minnesota
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superiorstyles Thelma’s Canoes: 100 and Counting Two weeks before her son Michael’s wedding, Thelma Cameron was busy. She had six dresses to finish sewing, plus, as a canoe builder, Michael had asked her to re-paint one of the canoes white for the lakeside wedding. “I told him only if he helped,” laughs Thelma. In the end, the bride and groom looked picture-perfect on their wedding day, paddling effortlessly in the freshly-painted white canoe as Thelma watched the results of her endeavors from the shore. Tufts of curly grey hair frame the thoughtful face of Thelma, grandmother of six, and one of only three female canoe builders in North America. “I do canoes, but my main job is being a grandma,” Thelma’s eyes light up. “It’s just dandy.” Perhaps not your typical grandmother, Thelma, a resident of Atikokan, has just finished building her hundredth canoe. It will be raffled off by the Friends of Quetico Park as part of the centennial celebrations. “I couldn’t believe I did it,” says Thelma, referring to the first canoe she built. The new owner named it Burt and still writes to her from British Columbia. “I have built canoes for people across Canada and as far south as Texas,” smiles Thelma, “and with the exception of three, everyone comes to get their canoe; they want to meet me. That’s my favourite part of the process, when the customer comes in and they see their canoe for the first time.” All Fletcher canoes are hand-built in Thelma’s backyard shop, using local white cedar for the planks and white ash, oak, cherry or maple for the gunnels, thwarts and seats. Thelma does all the planking, sanding, shaping, tapering, canvas-stretching, caning, painting, and finishing. She estimates that it takes about two-and-a-half to three months, or about 150 hours to create each cedar canvas canoe. “When there’s work that needs two people, my husband Randy helps. He also rebuilds canoes, and it’s a lot of fun working with him.” As a painter, Thelma intimately understands the importance of aesthetics and attention to detail and says there is much care in selecting wood for the best colour and grain pattern. “There is nothing quite like when you first put on the linseed oil and you see how pretty you have made it.”
Michael Cameron
Thelma concentrates on planking one of her hand-built Fletcher canoes
Originally based in Whitehorse, Fletcher Canoes was started in 1986 by Thelma’s uncle, Paul Fletcher. Paul gained his knowledge of design while working for Studebaker and MacDonald Douglas Aircraft and then applied it to pursue his dream of creating the “perfect canoe.” After completing his first canoe, a 17 ½-foot model, Fletcher met Bill Mason, a well-known Canadian paddling guru, who happened to be presenting in Whitehorse. Fletcher invited Mason to come see his new canoe. Impressed, Mason granted Fletcher permission to use his name on the canoe as long as it was called the Bill Mason Heavy Duty Special to reflect its large capacity and durability. In addition to the Bill Mason canoe, Fletcher designed a smaller canoe, Fletcher’s Fancy, borrowing from the lines of traditional
Micmac canoes. In the early 1990s, Thelma’s family took over the Fletcher legacy. Thelma’s husband Randy and eldest son Michael learned how to build the canoes, and eventually the business was moved to Atikokan, where it became a family affair. Gradually, Thelma assumed more tasks like painting, sanding and varathaning. In the late 1990s, she quit her job as a teaching assistant to work fulltime in the shop because Michael had moved away, and Randy couldn’t do it on his own. “It’s the best job I’ve ever had,” says Thelma. “I hope to eventually pass it on to one of my six grandchildren, but not for awhile; I still have a lot of canoes in me to build.” Tiffany Jarva Superior Outdoors
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sustainabledevelopments > species at risk
Gray Wolf Delisted, Again As of this spring, a symbol of Minnesota’s North Woods has lost its “threatened” status under the U.S. Endangered Species Act. In March, U.S. Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar announced the Fish and Wildlife Service would remove Northern Rockies and Western Great Lakes gray wolf populations from the endangered species list. It means that wolf populations in Minnesota no longer receive federal protection and instead are subject to state management plans, which may include harvesting after 2014. In a press release, Salazar called the recovery of the gray wolf “one of the great successes of the Endangered Species Act.” Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR) surveys indicate that wolf numbers now top 2,900, up from mere hundreds in the 1970s. The state’s wolf population is currently second to Alaska in population size; all told, the approximately 4,000 wolves in the Great Lakes states of Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan comprise more than 70 per cent of the total number of wolves in the continental U.S. Jessica Edberg, the information services director for the International Wolf Center, a non-advocacy education organization in Ely, Minnesota, says all indicators suggest the Fish and Wildlife Service has made the right decision. Wolves were put on the U.S. endangered species list in 1974 to give a dwindling population “protection from human harvest and a chance to expand and multiply,” says Edberg. “This has probably been the biggest factor in recovery.” After 35 years of federal protection, Edberg says the Minnesota DNR will now be responsible for wolf management. She says that for the next five years, state plans will require federal Fish and Wildlife Service approval “to make sure populations are going to be sustainable.” Meanwhile in Ontario, wolves have never had endangered species protection. Currently, wolves may be hunted from September 15 to March 31, with a bag limit of two wolves per person. And there is no quota for wolves trapped on Ontario’s 2,800 Ministry of Natural Resouces (MNR)-registered traplines. Still, MNR research scientist Brent Patterson says the population density of the Quetico region is a “relatively high” 20 wolves per 1,000 square kilometres. “Available information suggest the population is healthy,” says Patterson. “Subjective information from hunters, trappers and field staff suggest wolf numbers are increasing or stable across much of northwestern Ontario in recent years.” Edberg says that a vibrant population of wolves north of the border has also contributed to the recovery. “There’s no separation between American and Canadian wolves and genes are constantly flowing across the border,” says Edberg. “One of the unique things about having Canada next door is that it provides wolves with lots of space in vast wilderness areas. We just don’t have that much habitat in southern Minnesota.”
...the approximately 4,000 wolves in the Great Lakes states of Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan comprise more than 70 per cent of the total number of wolves in the continental U.S.
Conor Mihell Gray Wolf pup photo by Jim Brandenburg
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sustainabledevelopments
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Gerry Racey (MNR)
sustainabledevelopments
Photo interpreter & forester, Jenny Platt, uses a prism to measure trees in Quetico
> forests
A New FRI for Quetico In July 1999, the skies turned green in Quetico Park and surrounding area. The green skies coupled with high winds resulted from an extreme windstorm that blew timber down along the Canada/US border between Minnesota and Ontario, including a very large blowdown in the Emerald Lake region at the southeastern tip of Quetico. Erin Banton, an Ecological Land Classification Forester at the MNR, says the 1999 blowdown is just one example of some major natural events that have occurred since the park’s last Forest Resource Inventory (FRI) completed in1968. Banton lists other important events such as: the large 25,000 ha McKenzie Lake wildfire in 1995; the devastation caused by the jack pine budworm outbreak in the Kawnipi Lake area in 2005 and 2006. Also, as a result of the Emerald Lake blowdown, a successful 1,000-hectare prescribed burn was conducted for hazard reduction purposes. Now, new high-resolution digital 12
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imagery along with extensive field work (700 calibration plots) from the latest FRI can show how the park’s forest is doing in all the above areas and more. Originally developed in 1946 to help plan and manage forests for harvesting purposes, the Forest Resource Inventory (FRI) is an extensive survey of forest resources in Ontario. As of 2005, the FRI program has been enhanced to improve the depth and timeliness of information and applies to approximately 555,000 km2 of forest, including harvested lands, parks like Quetico and protected areas. Strapping on a pair of stereo goggles in Banton’s office, it is captivating to see 3-D aerial imagery that shows topographical details of the park’s forest. It jumps out at you and is like looking at a real-life model, something you would see at an interpretive centre, but in more detail on a computer screen. A viewing of the park’s popular daytrip area, “The Pines,” reveals glints of red under shoreline red pines and fallen timber not too far off from the shore. “With this technology, it’s easier to identify species,” says FRI specialist Wayne Day. “I love it. It’s cool to put these goggles on. Cer-
tain species like black ash just jump off the screen. Based on the old photos we could look at half a hectare. Now we can go down to a metre. This is information that parks can really use and originally we didn’t realize the full-potential of this sort of detail.” In the 60s, photography was black and white, with an aerial photo scale of 1:15,840 (imperial). Today, it’s digital, in colour, and the scale can be as low as 1:1,000 (metric). “For us, the new FRI is definitely a huge improvement over the old because of its detail,” says Quetico park biologist Lisa Solomon. “This new accuracy is going to be very helpful, not only for fire planning and management, but also makes it possible for tracking wildlife habitat and vegetation.” Whereas the old FRI primarily showed the composition of the main canopy, Solomon explains that the new digital technology captures the secondary tree species and details of more complex, two-tiered stands. Ecosites (information about the substrate depth, texture landform and nutrient regimes) are also now part of all FRIs, and because ecosites weren’t around in the sixties, this new
sustainabledevelopments
Ontario MNR
information is also very valuable to the park. “Even into the late 80s, the FRIs just focused strictly on the ‘forest’,” explains Day, “Now we’re interested in a more broad-based planning approach.” When asked if the forest has changed much since the sixties, Solomon points out that perhaps the composition of the forest hasn’t changed much, but its age definitely has, which means there are larger, older trees that are more susceptible to extreme events like major blowdowns, insect infestation and fires. Jennifer Platt, a photo interpreter and forester who was part of the FRI field crew, says that there are a lot of older poplar and birch falling out of the canopy. A general trend she noticed is that it’s difficult to find any poplar over 100 years old. Poplar between 80 and 100 years had rot, and most of the blowdown consisted of poplar. Platt says she was surprised by the amount of red and white pine because they were harvested in the 60s (some harvesting was still permitted in the park until 1971). She was especially surprised by the amount
of red and white pine along the shores. “We found some white pines that are 60-70 years old. So they seem to be reestablishing themselves which is a good sign.” Platt says the oldest white pine they came across was 150 years old and the oldest red was 186. Field cruisers like Platt are still very integral to the process. “Even with all the new technology, we still need boots to the ground,” says Day. “We need people like Jenny [Platt] who have a good sense of the ground and their head in the bush. We must remember that the photos are only as good as the interpreter.” Banton agrees. “Digital imagery is a very, very good tool to aid in resource management planning. It is a great way to capture diversity, which is a really important thing. But we must remember that in the end it is a tool and that we will always need people collecting information and data on the ground.” Tiffany Jarva Atikokan_canoe_ad [C#13C27B.pdf
Aerial photo of The Pines blowdown
10/9/07
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sustainabledevelopments D. McChristie
A rainbow over the Red Rock Marina, Nipigon Bay, Lake Superior
> water
Canada Falls Behind on Great Lakes Earlier this spring U.S. President Obama announced its proposed budget for 2010, including a 34 percent increase in funding for the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and an extra $475 million toward Great Lakes restoration. The funding comes in the wake of a campaign promise to jumpstart clean up with a $5 billion investment. Environmental organizations in Canada are applauding this sort of leadership on the U.S. side, while harshly criticizing the Canadian federal government, whose last federal budget did not even mention the Great Lakes. “What we need to see from Stephen Harper is a national investment in the Great Lakes, not the Manhattan theatrics that he is passing off as Canada-U.S. relations,” said Derek Stack, Executive Director of Great Lakes United. Stack is responding to recent media blitzes to New York City by the Prime Minister. “This is the same cycle we’ve seen for years – the U.S. commits hundreds of millions of dollars to the Great Lakes and Ottawa does nothing.” Aaron Freeman, Policy Director of Environmental Defence echoes Stack’s sentiments. “It is clear that the Obama administration understands that environment and economy are two sides of the same coin. In Canada, our federal politicians seem mired in a totally outdated ‘environment versus economy’ mentality.” The Province of Ontario and an association of municipalities on both sides of the border are also pushing the federal government to take action. In early May the Great LakesSt. Lawrence Cities Initiative met with Ontario Ministers of Environment, Natural Resources, and Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs releasing their plan to help heal the lakes. Toronto Mayor David Miller called on provincial and fed-
eral governments to step forward as the Great Lakes mayors outline their plan for the lakes. “Great Lakes municipalities are collectively the largest financial contributor to Great Lakes protection, with Ontario municipalities investing over $2 billion a year. It is essential that the federal and provincial governments work with us to coordinate our efforts and investments. Together we can work to improve people’s enjoyment of the Lakes and stimulate local economies in communities across Ontario.” Indeed, the Great Lakes are a driver of the North American economy. A recent report by the Brookings Institute found that a $26 billion investment in the Great Lakes would reap $50 billion worth of benefits. With the combined economies of Ontario and the eight Great Lakes states exceeding that of the economic powerhouses of China, India, Germany and the United Kingdom, an investment in the Great Lakes would create jobs, address urgent health and environmental problems, and improve the quality of life in the region. “While president Obama has made it clear that he remains committed to jumpstarting the recovery of the Great Lakes, the Harper government has simply demonstrated that it remains the lax laggard of the region,” said Dr. Elaine MacDonald, Senior Scientist with Ecojustice (formerly Sierra Legal Defence Fund). “The longer we wait the worse the problems get and the more costly the solutions become.” Successive governments in Canada have given little regard to the health of the Great Lakes, cutting funding and scaling back resources. “For years Environment Canada has been plagued by budget cuts and broken funding promises,” said Sarah Miller, Water Policy Researcher with the Canadian Environmental Law Association. “As a result we have lost the scientific capacity to understand the impacts of new stresses on this delicate ecosystem.” Brent Gibson Superior Outdoors
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D. McChristie
sustainabledevelopments
A View from the Lake
Superior’s Floating Classroom I’m standing on the deck of a tugboat, watching a group of researchers lower a large, tubular column of fine mesh into Lake Superior. They lower the column 20 metres into the Lake and, as they lift it out, water spills out from the sides. The mesh is just the right size to contain zooplankton and phytoplankton, tiny but hearty aquatic animals and plants. I watch with anticipation along with a group of fellow participants in an environmental education program aptly named “A View from the Lake.” I’m not sure what the group is expecting to see in the water column, but I sense some disappointment when the large sample is reduced to a small jar of water containing some inter-dispersed particles. There is not much swimming in the plastic jar. A View from the Lake is an outreach program that encourages local citizens to take action in their communities to improve water quality in Lake Superior and its rivers and streams. The program was started in 2004 by the University of Wisconsin Extension and Minnesota Sea Grant as a branch of the Northland NEMO program. NEMO (Nonpoint 18
Superior Outdoors
Education for Municipal Officials) is an education program that helps local government officials incorporate natural resource information into land-use planning. The Sea Grant invites elected and appointed officials and municipal employees to participate in the educational program in coastal communities between Ashland, Wisconsin and Grand Marais, Minnesota. Along the north shore of Lake Superior, most of the land is forested and this is quite a contrast to other Great Lakes that have a much higher population density. The focus of the 2008 View from the Lake program was to help participants understand and appreciate the value of forests and, more specifically, the importance of forest cover, pervious surfaces and wetlands in protecting water quality. Although the specific topics vary each year, the goal is always to raise awareness of the environmental issues related to Lake Superior and empower individuals to make a difference. In the past, the program has covered topics such as Lake Superior ecology, climate change, mercury and fisheries. The L.L. Smith Jr. serves as the floating classroom for the View from the Lake program. The 58foot-long, all-steel research tug is owned by the University of Wisconsin. After an introduction to the program
and a basic hydrology lesson, we set sail from Grand Marais and headed north along Lake Superior’s coastline. In one classroom, Sea Grant staff taught a lesson on the water cycle and the benefits of maintaining natural groundcover. Students learned about the role of wetlands in flood control and their capacity to store large amounts of water and the importance of forest cover in rural and urban areas. Trees and shrubs reduce stormwater by intercepting rainfall and providing temporary storage in their foliage and the roots of trees absorb water and also stablize the soil, thereby reducing erosion. Minimizing paved surfaces and using porous pavers was discussed as an alternative to asphalt and concrete. Porous surfaces increase infiltration of rainwater and further reduces stormwater runoff. The take home message was that every landowner can take steps to maintain natural ground cover whether they own a small city lot or rural acreage. At the midway point, Captain Rau D. McChristie
> education
sustainabledevelopments stopped the boat to give the Sea Grant staff and students an opportunity to collect and examine water column and sediment samples. After taking a close look at the samples it became clear that there is not a lot living in the deep, cold waters of Lake Superior. At this point, the lake depth was approximately 120 metres and the temperature was 5 degrees C. I stared at the sediment sample looking for critters, known as benthic organisms, but it looks to be clean. According to Schomberg, this may be due to a rocky sampling location, “deepwater bottom critters like finer substrates with lots of organic matter, which they eat.” Also, Lake Superior is known as an oligotrophic lake because the lake does not contain a lot of nutrients. This factor, combined with the cool temperatures in deeper waters, makes for inhospitable living conditions for many aquatic organisms. For the return trip, students moved to the next classroom on the other side of the boat. I sat down at the table for a short lesson on urban planning which illustrated the reduced impact that higher density housing can have on the environment. At first, I found this to be counter-intuitive but the key is to reduce the amount of pavement with narrower roadways and smaller driveways. In the ideal urban development, greenspace, recreational trails and stormwater collection ponds are expanded to create a more natural environment. The result is a more natural water cycle and improved water quality. The View from the Lake’s floating classroom has been a success and, to date, over 2000 people have participated in the program. In 2009, two different programs will be offered. Trips departing from Wisconsin will look at the collaborative efforts to evaluate the health of Lake Superior coastal wetlands and streams and land use planning tools that can protect water quality and fish and wildlife habitat. Minnesota trips focus on the sustainability of Lake Superior’s coastal communities. All trips will include hands-on monitoring and sampling programs, ideas for individuals and communities to protect the lake and, of course, a spectacular view that one can only experience from the water. For more information, visit www.seagrant.umn.edu/vfl. Michelle McChristie
D. McChristie
(opposite - top) Participants watch as Sea Grant staff empty the contents of a plankton net used to collect zooplankton and phytoplankton into a small jar for viewing (opposite bottom)
(this page) The deck of the floating classroom, L.L. Smith Jr., a 58-foot reseach tug owned by the University of Wisconsin
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M AP S CHA& RTS
the foodchain
The Blueberry a super fruit
In his poem Blueberries, the great American poet Robert Frost describes a field of wild blueberries in the rain: “The fruit mixed with water in layers of leaves, like two kinds of jewels, a vision for thieves.” The poem describes the lure of a field of ripe blueberries “as big as the end of your thumb” and the feeling that such a great discovery cannot be kept a secret for long. Blueberries typically grow in rocky or sandy soils that have been subject to forest fire or logging. The shrubs are also found in wet acidic soils such as swamps and bogs. In ecological terms, blueberries are an early successional species because they are one of the first plants to grow in a disturbed area. Blueberries thrive in open areas with full exposure to sunlight (this means fewer blackflies!). Blueberries are perhaps the yummiest and most abundant health food in the Lake Superior basin. In 1999, Boston’s Tufts University published a study that looked at the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) of common fruits and vegetables. The research suggests that eating plenty of high-ORAC fruits and vegetables may help slow the processes associated with aging in both body and brain. Blueberries have a higher ORAC than any of the vegetables studied, including broccoli, kale and red peppers. One cup of blueberries can nearly double the amount of antioxidants most people consume in a day. Because of their potent health benefits, blueberries are known as a super fruit. Their antioxidant powers may delay, and even reverse, the effects of aging. Blueberries are also effective in reducing the risk of heart disease and cancer, lowering LDL or “bad” cholesterol levels, improving circulation, and improving age-related short-term memory loss. Blueberries are also high in vitamin C and vitamin E, which also help to combat illness and disease.
“The fruit mixed with water in layers of leaves, Like two kinds of jewels, a vision for thieves.” from Blueberries by Robert Frost
Jarron Childs
Antioxidants 101: In much the same way that oxidation creates rust and the breakdown of metal, oxidation inside the body causes a breakdown of cells. This breakdown produces oxidants, a.k.a. free radicals, that attack healthy cells. These attacks begin a chain of events that eventually weakens the immune system, accelerates the aging process, and may lead to several diseases such as cataracts, various forms of cancer, heart disease and chronic conditions, such as arthritis. Oxidants are also introduced through external sources such as exposure to the sun or pollution, or ingestion of unhealthy foods. Antioxidants adhere to free radicals and decrease their destructive power. They can also help repair damage already sustained by cells. Michelle McChristie
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Thunder Bay
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Eight Hours of Singletrack
D. McChristie
On July 25th, 2009 the Kinsmen Club of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario will host the second annual 8 Hours of Superior Singletrack, an eight-hour charity mountain bike relay race. The race takes place at the Hiawatha Highlands - a vast cross country ski area with a network of mountain bike trails. The course winds its way through the cross country ski trails on some challenging singletrack but includes enough doubletrack to allow for passing. The scenery includes beautiful pine forest and views of crystal creek. The race is open to all ages and abilities and the idea is to ride as many laps as possible on the 11 kilometre course. Great food, music and prizes create a festive atmosphere and it is all for a good cause – to raise money for Cystic Fibrosis. For more information or to register visit www.superiorsingletrack.com.
Black Bay, Lake Superior
North of Superior Sea Kayak Symposium Celebrate kayaking at the North of Superior Sea Kayak Symposium in Pass Lake, located an hour’s drive east of Thunder Bay. The symposium takes place at Beyond The Giant Nature Retreats from July 3-5, 2009. This scenic location is on the shore of Lake Superior, within the National Marine Conservation Area, just north of Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. The weekend festivities include kayak clinics, demos, kayak tours, a BBQ, and loads of prizes. Enjoy paddling in Black Bay and along the Sibley Peninsula, home to the highest vertical cliff faces in central Canada. Join a tour to renowned sites such as Silver Islet, the Paps, and Caribou Island and learn, from experienced guides, about the natural and human history of the area. Camping and cabin rentals are available at Beyond the Giant Nature Retreats. All ages and abilities are welcome. For more information or to register, visit www.wildernesssupply.ca.
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routes
Night Riding
Tom Theodoropoulos
Full moons are traditionally associated with insomnia and insanity. So, it is no surprise that my first night ride, on a mountain bike, was under a full moon. However, it is somewhat surprising that I chose a cool, rainy night in mid-November to try riding the challenging Shuniah singletrack trails in Thunder Bay without the obvious benefits of daylight. It was well past sunset when I met up with Tom Theodoropoulos and Brian Rosina of the Black Sheep Mountain Bike Club at the bluffs above Boulevard Lake. Tom had lent me his old lights, which I mounted on my handlebars, while they each had new headlamps that produced intense white light, easily eclipsing my hazy yellow glow. The ground was frozen solid, and there was a thin layer of ultra-slick ice on all the smooth, flat rocks we were riding over. Though I knew I should stay loose, I couldn’t help but grip the bars tightly as I wondered how quickly I could unclip my shoe when it was time for the inevitable bail out. My lights seemed even dimmer than before and needed to be adjusted on the handlebars each time they were jostled. I was cold. In fact, my fingers and toes quickly went numb and my lights now seemed ridiculously dim in comparison to the others’ headlamps. We were five minutes into the ride, and not even on the proper trail yet, when my lights died. It would have been easy to turn around and head back to the warmth of my truck. But where was the fun in that? With Tom riding up front and Brian behind, I was able to use their lights to spot most of the rocks, roots, and fallen trees. The shadow my body cast from the intense light behind me produced a wicked blind spot. Although the situation wasn’t ideal, I was still riding, and starting to regain feeling in my fingers. Then something entirely unexpected happened. With darkness surrounding me, the trail system seemed new and more exciting than ever before. I could hear the crisp shifting of my Cannondale, see the occasional animal scurrying off the trail and feel
my tires softly breaking through the crust of the frozen ground. The feeling was surreal, and it was awesome. We cruised for an hour and a half like that. That’s all it took. The next day I was at the store ordering myself a headlamp. Rain turned to snow and I wouldn’t do another night ride for five months. The following spring, we made it a weekly ritual and recruited additional riders. Why would any sane person ride at night? If you work during the day, a set of lights allows you to ride after work and later into fall. If you have children, you can ride while they’re asleep. If a hot and sweaty summer ride doesn’t appeal to you, you can wait until the sun sets. If you want to hone your bike handling skills, you’ll find riding at night to be a challenge. There are many reasons to do it, but for me, the experience of night riding provides a rush that’s hard to define. When you learn to use sound and touch to control the bike and flow effortlessly through the blackness of night, around trees and over obstacles, it’s an amazing feeling to rely, at least a little, on senses other than sight. While a good headlamp used for camping should work for a first try, you’ll eventually want something with a rechargeable battery pack. The powerful, bike-specific models will minimize the chances of you overrunning your lights and can be found at your local bike shop. The advantage of a headlamp mounted to your helmet becomes obvious in singletrack as the light moves with your head. Lights on your handlebars alleviate weight on the neck and back. I opted for a lightweight and versatile model by Blackburn that allows for both options. So far, I haven’t found the need to take it off my helmet. As crazy as it sounds, night riding can be exponentially more fun than riding during the day. Maybe it’s because your senses are heightened, maybe it’s the increased element of risk, or maybe it’s the unnatural sensation of speeding along a root-infested trail when you should be sleeping. If the thought of such an adventure appeals to you, beg, borrow or buy some lights and see what you’ve been missing. Keith Ailey
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routes Peter Moore
Open Water Rowing When most people think about rowing, they typically conjure an image of a sleek and lightweight racing shell or a much larger and heavier rowboat. Open water rowing uses shells that fall somewhere in between. They are longer, lighter and faster than a traditional rowboat, but wider and more stable than a racing shell. Open water rowing, also known as “recreational rowing” is “open” in the types of water on which the shells can be used, the varying levels of abilities of people that can handle the shells, and the relatively low cost of the shells. In 2005, Ian Harvey became the first person in the world to row the full-length of Lake Superior in a single scull rowing shell. Harvey, then 58, traveled from his home in Saintfield, Northern Ireland, to row from Duluth, Minnesota to Whitefish Point, Michigan. Reminiscing of his world record, Harvey said, “Rowing on Lake Superior was one of the most exhilarating experiences of my life. I sampled just about everything I could handle in a tiny rowing scull with low gunwales, from waves taller than me and near calamity, to the flat calm of night time with a stunningly beautiful full moon to keep me company.” The South Shore Rowing Center in Washburn, Wisconsin actively promotes open water rowing and provides instruction, outings, tours and vacations. The Center provides everything a newcomer needs to become hooked on Lake Superior rowing.
Peter Moore
(above and below) Ian Harvey is the first person to row the fulllength of Lake Superior
Darren McChristie Superior Outdoors
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Canadian Quetico Outfitters ! m a e r d e h t e l d d a P
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routes Nick Buda
Soft Rock Adulation Climbing the Sandstone Cliffs of Pass Lake
Duncan Hutchison perfecting his “trad” game on a bold lead of Everything Goes Green at Pass Lake
The bright sandstone cliffs of Pass Lake are a welcome anomaly among the usual diabase cliffs and rotten shale bands that make up much of the topography of the northwest shore of Lake Superior. Driving east along the TransCanada highway on a crisp and clear late summer evening, you can’t help but notice something different about the cliff strata visible along the northern parts of the Sibley Peninsula. They glow white, then yellow in the evening light and, in stark contrast to the shadowed forest surrounding them, they seem to levitate above the dark waters of Lake Superior. Turning south from the highway towards Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, you experience the feeling that you’re entering someplace magical. After descending into the valley in the gathering evening mist, you drive under the railway trestle - a gate through which you’ll find a perfect evening cragging experience. Just a few short steps from the car, awaits a spectacular variety of climbs. A small number of high-quality routes, most at a grade attractive to experienced climbers, are mixed in with a handful of excellent lines suitable for beginners. For sport climbers that prefer to climb with protection bolts already in place, there are a handful of excellent routes with a trio of steep and challenging lines. These lines are found immediately in front of the parking lot and are among the best the crag has to offer. Beginning climbers will appreciate the easy accessibility of the cliff-top trails and in-situ anchors for top rope setups. Most recently, this crag has seen a resurgence in the popularity of its traditional or “trad” climbs – routes climbed by trailing a rope and inserting various pieces of “protection” in existing natural cracks and features. This, in itself, is not significant
and the relatively moderate grades of most such routes here certainly aren’t newsworthy. But, unlike the sounder forms of rock at most other cliffs in the region, the soft, crumbly nature of the sandstone at Pass Lake gives climbers pause for reflection. Here, trad climbing is often a battle with your headspace, for the crux moves on a route are often protected by suspect gear. Since the sandstone absorbs water and weakens significantly after heavy rainfall, success on these routes and the relatively safety of climbing them in this manner, often depends on ideal conditions - hard to come by during wet summers. Just a few weeks ago, the route I’m about to attempt was led ground-up by a couple of strong young climbers from Thunder Bay, very likely the first time it was climbed in this style. Their excitement after “the send” was palpable and it got me fired up to give the line a go. Despite dozens of visits to this crag, and countless top-roped laps on this route in particular, I find myself tying into the rope with a sense of trepidation. Assurances from my partner aren’t helpful. A sharp gust of wind blows through the birch trees and gets me moving. I feel overwhelmingly committed as I place my sticky rubber shoes on the band of conglomerate rock at the bottom. A few moves higher, I fiddle in another disturbingly small piece of protection as the wind blows sand into my eyes. With the crux looming a few feet higher and my forearms tiring rapidly, the consequence of a fall is suddenly all too clear. Reaching for the next hold, I’m still not certain I’ll make it without consequence. Nick Buda Superior Outdoors
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artsandliterature
Artist Profile: Rick Allen Rick Allen would not be offended if you called his art form archaic or even backward. In fact, he considers these characteristics to be charming, not unlike the imperial system of measurement. It might not make a lot of sense compared to the more modern and efficient metric system, but Rick Allen can’t help but appreciate things that make such little sense. Allen is a printmaker from Duluth, MN. He creates text and images by engraving wood – an art form that dates back to 300 B.C. The combination of art and text had always interested him and, although he loved 19th century graphic art in high school, he did not initially pursue a career as an artist, unconvinced he could earn a living. Allen went to university, studied in Germany, considered law school, and researched the history of science in the Italian Renaissance as a graduate student. He also attended art school and, starting in the mid-1980s, worked as a freelance illustrator. The 1990s introduced a new computer age and with it came new technology for graphic design and publishing. This created tough times for illustrators, but Allen adapted and continued to work as an artist. In 2004, he started the Kenspeckle Letterpress in with his partner, Marian Lansky. Over the years, Allen has created numerous wood engravings, making limited edition reproductions and a variety of printed ephemerae such as note cards and posters. Among his larger projects, Allen collaborated with author David Pagel to illustrate The First Chinook. For this book, published in 2005, Allen created 38 original wood engravings. Rick Allen’s sense of humour and taste for things peculiar, ironic and nonsensical is reflected in the Kenspeckle Letterpress motto: Non duco, non sequor which means, “we do not lead, we do not follow.” In Rick and Marian’s view they are “sort of off to one side.” Allen truly unique art reflects his love of the outdoors. Having lived near Lake Superior for most of his life, he cannot help but be moved by the lake and does not take the landscape for granted. His art represents an internalized view of a place. He describes it as “a distillation of the way I feel about something rather than the way it actually looks.” Those feelings, in Allen’s view, “evoke images and lend themselves to the graphic nature of print making.” To learn more about Rick Allen’s art, contact the Kenspeckle Letterpress at (866)727-3706 or visit www.kenspeckleletterpress.com.
Song of the Blackfly Giclee print by Rick Allen
Michelle McChristie Superior Outdoors
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www.GunflintCamping.com for campground listings
artsandliterature
High on the Big Stone Heart by Charles Wilkins Natural Heritage Books 182 pp., softcover
The life of Charles Wilkins is a venerable series of unusual experiences. He has written about his 2,200 kilometre walk from Thunder Bay to Manhattan, his travels with the Great Wallenda Circus and his summer job as a grave digger. In 1991, Wilkins moved to Thunder Bay and has since found inspiration in the physical and cultural landscape of the Boreal forest and the north shore of Lake Superior. His latest book, High on the Big Stone Heart, is a collection of stories and adventures that explores top-
ics from the Whirlpool Galaxy to the north shore of Lake Superior and some of the characters one finds living in between. As a gifted storyteller, Wilkins does not disappoint in High on the Big Stone Heart. Wilkins humility, sense of humour and innate understanding of people and the places that shape them make the book an entertaining read. His story of misadventure in the Greenwood Lake area, near Thunder Bay, is a hilarious account of a challenge Wilkins accepted from a magazine editor - six days with only the gear and food that he could fit into the pockets of his clothes. Another story gives a rare account of the lifestyle of a trapper and the paradox of this ancient profession in a hightech society. The final story, the book’s namesake, is Wilkins’ tribute to the north shore. He describes a typical journey along Highway 17, “You drive all day. You get weary. You crest a hill and feel the familiar stab to the heart as Lake Superior spreads itself before you – the wildness of its shoreline; its vast and icy self-sufficiency; its tendency, like the ocean’s, to dwarf human endeavour.” With its vivid impressions, the book serves as a reminder that we are fortunate to experience the grandeur of the lake and its surrounding landscapes. MM
Thunder Bay Nature Guide
edited by Michelle & Darren McChristie Thunder Bay Field Naturalists 82 pp., softcover Did you know that the Lake Superior Basin has 58 species of orchids? The Thunder Bay Nature Guide provides little known facts and figures for nature buffs, in addition to detailed information on over twenty sites in the Thunder Bay area. Each site description includes a map and description of natural features such as geology, wildlife and vegetation. The guide is essential reading for anyone interested in learning more about the geology, flora and fauna of the area. JPM
Paddle Your Own Kayak by Gary and Joanie McGuffin Boston Mills Press 208 pp., hardcover
As a follow-up to the success of their book Paddle Your Own Canoe, Joanie and Gary McGuffin continue to redefine how-to books for paddle sports. Paddle You Own Kayak is intended to teach anyone with an interest in the sport, whether a beginner or more experienced paddler, the essentials of kayaking. With the aid of 600 colour photographs and illustrations, the book covers a range of topics including: the history of kayaks and the types available; transportation, care and storage; advice on gear and clothing; lessons on reading wind, weather and water currents; and tips for planning routes, reading charts and navigating confidently, even in places one has never been before. The step-by-step illustrated instructions simplify even the most complex maneuvers and the beautiful photos will inspire readers to get out and explore their backyard and beyond. There is no doubt that Paddle You Own Kayak is an exceptionally comprehensive and practical how-to book. As experienced paddlers that have explored Lake Superior, Greenland, Japan and Mexico, the McGuffins convey the joy and satisfaction they have found in piloting these small craft. They extend their wish that the reader “will find, as we have, that the kayak is an ideal vehicle to transport you to the mysteries and rewards of the natural world.” MM
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Approaching Michipicoten Island after a 20-kilometre open water crossing
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Superior Outdoors
Mysterious Michipicoten Exploring the Scattered Remains of Michipicoten Island
T
words and photos by Conor Mihell
here’s a point in every long crossing of open water by sea kayak when the destination seems to shrink in the distance and become unattainable. On the 20-kilometre-long passage to Michipicoten Island, this happens just after the midway point. Far from the safety of shore, I feel as though I’m paddling into the oblivion. My thoughts wander to the Ojibwa legend of a wintertime hunting party who watched the island disappear on a crossing of their own. Reverie becomes reality—with the added pressure of keeping pace with a speed-crazed, hot pink helmet-wearing paddling buddy. The red-trimmed tower of the island’s East End Lighthouse isn’t getting any closer. Worse yet, I come to the delusional conclusion that Craig’s pink helmet and windmilling arms are also becoming increasingly distant. Superior Outdoors
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Camping on a cobble beach on Michipicoten Island (opposite) The East End Lighthouse is one of Superior’s tallest
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M
ichipicoten is the second-largest island on Lake Superior’s Canadian side. Its 25-kilometre-long, submarine-shaped form erupts from the water 65 kilometres offshore from Wawa. From my home on the shore of Michipicoten Bay, views of the island come and go at the whim of the weather. With an approaching cold front, the island’s 250-metre hills stand tall, making it appear near and imposing. But in mid-summer haze, the so-called “Mystic Isle” barely registers, floating above the heat waves like a surfacing beaver. Most of the time, however, a veil of fog hides the island. At its closest point to the mainland, the cliffs of the island’s Bonner Head peninsula are 16 kilometres from the Lake Superior Highlands shore, just southeast of Pukaskwa National Park’s southern boundary. With a gulf of open water separating it from the mainland, not to mention a rugged, densely forested interior, offshore shoals, magnetic anomalies and few sheltered harbours, it’s easy to see why mariners have long been equally frightened and allured by Michipicoten Island. Shrouded in legends of rich lodes of copper guarded by 20-metre-tall giants, the island was one of the last on the Great Lakes to be accurately mapped. Up until the late 1700s, Michipicoten’s chameleon-
like tendencies were rendered on charts as three islands, which the fledgling United States reckoned was a fair trade for the ownership of western Lake Superior’s Isle Royale. Both my trip partner Craig and I had crossed to and circumnavigated the island before, so we knew its more ominous myths are unfounded. But we were still smitten by the mystery of the place, so we planned to return on a weeklong, fast and light September trip from Michipicoten Bay. We would paddle the remote mainland coast for 65 kilometres to Floating Heart Bay, where we would make the 20-kilometre-long crossing to the island’s eastern headland. Despite a rolling two-metre swell on day one and 50-kilometre-per-hour winds and towering whitecaps on day two, we made it to Floating Heart Bay in short order and waited for an opportunity to cross. At sunrise on day three we set out, adjusting our course in a remnant swell and trying to get an accurate bearing on our barely discernable target. The lighthouse plays tricks with the mind—blink and it’s clearly visible, let your gaze wander for a second and it disappears. It’s with relief that we touch down after 2.5 hours in the saddle, and stagger around the lighthouse grounds on cramped sea legs. Superior Outdoors
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D
The remains of a commercial fishing operation that shut down in the late 1950s
How a structure like the East End Lighthouse could be constructed in such an out-of-the-way location is beyond comprehension. The 21-metre tower is one of Lake Superior’s tallest. Built in 1911, it features six concrete “flying buttresses”—solid, offset pillars that anchor the hexagon-shaped light tower in high winds like guylines on a tent. All of the concrete, steel, glass and grunt labourers arrived at this isolated head38
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land at an exposed pier where open lake swells heave on even the windless days. Marvels of engineering aside, Craig and I turn our attention to nearby bushes of raspberries, blueberries and cranberries, and sample the fruits of their diminutive, wizened arctic cousins, crowberry and alpine bilberry, which cling to life in Lake Superior’s post-glacial microclimate.
espite its feared reputation, Michipicoten Island shows many signs of human occupation. On our fourth day, we tour Quebec Harbour, a boot-shaped shelter on the island’s south side. Commercial fishing began at Quebec Harbour in the 1830s, but it wasn’t until a century later that operations flourished, and the community’s population spiked to 70. At its peak, Quebec Harbour fishermen tended 315 kilometres of nets. Not surprisingly, a combination of overfishing and a rampant sea lamprey infestation lead to the closure of the fishery in the late 1950s. Much remains today, however, including a ramshackle net drying shed, greasy generating building, a store and cookhouse and a row of dilapidated bunkhouses. Across the harbour, three shipwrecks poke out of quiet waters. It’s possible to paddle into the wheelhouse of the skeletal frame of the Billy Blake, while the boiler of the Captain Jim is now an active beaver lodge. The wrecked wooden hull of the Hiram R. Dixon spans open water like a bridge to nowhere. All three boats met their fates on open waters about a century ago and were towed and scuttled in Quebec Harbour. The handful of residents who still cottage in the harbour each summer are dwarfed by the island’s 300-animal-strong herd of woodland caribou, which have thrived in the predator-free environment since their reintroduction in 1982. Exiting Quebec Harbour, I realize I’m exhausted. We’ve covered over 130 kilometres in less than four days, bushwhacked across countless scraggy headlands and hiked the perimeter of several smaller offshore islands. Busybody Craig leaves no stone unturned and sets a blistering pace on the water—literally. My hands are covered in puffy red rub marks and open sores from long days holding the paddle. We come off the water early on day four, camping on a red pea gravel beach on the island’s westernmost tip. I get a distinct sense of being in the heart of Lake Superior here. From atop a headland, the watery horizon stretches in nearly all directions; the view is only interrupted by the tortuous contours of the
Pukaskwa coastline in the distance and the mop-topped boreal forest of Michipicoten Island at my back. That night, the peaceful, melodious sound of waves on gravel infiltrates my dreams. Miraculously, when I awake the next morning my blisters have nearly disappeared. or four days, I’ve watched Craig pull on a hot pink whitewater kayaking helmet and wear it all day long—in rough seas and calm, rain or shine. I’ve marvelled at the swift moving, unfaltering pink helmet that bobs ahead of me like a carrot on a string as much as I’ve wanted to ask him, “Why the hell are you wearing a pink helmet?” As we pack up camp on day five, my curiosity gets the best of me and I bring it up. “It’s light, comfortable and airy,” he replies matter-of-factly. “Plus I can’t stand wearing a baseball cap.” “And it protects your noggin,” I say. “Well,” he replies, pausing thoughtfully, as though the protective qualities of a whitewater helmet have never crossed his mind, “yeah.” “Stylish too,” I add. “It was, 20 years ago.” With that, we slide our kayaks into the water and I immediately become the tortoise to the pink helmet’s hare-fast pace. We slow down to search, without avail, for the wreck of the Strathmore, a 61-metre-long wooden grain-hauler that ran aground off Michipicoten Island’s western headland in 1906, during a November gale. Then we set our sights on Quebec Rocks, an offshore shoal that marks the site of the island’s copper mines. The Ojibwa had countless legends of Michipicoten Island’s mineral riches, which they believed were guarded by Mishepeshu, the giant underwater lynx. A story of the agonizing deaths of a group of Ojibwa who pocketed a few copper nuggets to bring back to the mainland was enough for most to stay away. But to 19th century European rockhounds, aboriginal legends only fuelled a desire to explore and exploit the area’s mineral wealth. What’s more, early geology maps confirmed that the island is part of the same volcanic formation that underlies the copper-rich Keweenaw Peninsula on Lake Superior’s south shore. Prospecting began in 1846 and, after
F
Mining peaked on the island in the 1880s
several false starts, peaked in the 1880s. The engineering challenges of mining copper on Michipicoten Island’s cliff-bound north shore make the construction of the East End Lighthouse seem like a weekend project. We sneak through a series of shoals and land at the Quebec Mines site on a tiny, exposed gravel beach. Since there was no way to dock supply boats at the site, miners and materials landed at Quebec
Harbour on the south side of the island and were transported overland. We follow caribou trails through the remains of the mine site. Historical photos reveal a denuded landscape of processing mills, sawmills, boiler rooms and a farm and bunkhouses capable of feeding and housing 150 miners. We peer into the 160-metre-deep abyss of the main shaft and find several other water-filled pits, decomposing headSuperior Outdoors
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frames and crumpled rock walls. A strange, surprisingly sturdy cedar fence zigzags through the forest, and several plywood shelters attest to prospecting that was done in the area in the 1960s. Despite all the hype and enthusiastic development, Michipicoten Island’s mines never turned a profit. Caribou now have the run of the place, roaming well-trodden trails through the thick, eerily dark forest. Between Quebec Mines and Bonner Head, a bulbous point of land on the island’s northeastern shore, we rockhop through shallow, boulder-strewn waters and paddle into several sea caves. In rough weather, this coastline would seethe with surf. Today, conditions are
Trip Planner Difficulty: The trip described in this story is rated expert-only. The 16- to 20-kilometre crossing means full exposure to the brunt of Lake Superior’s fickle demeanour for several hours. Even if you choose to take a boat shuttle to Michipicoten Island, you must still be prepared for a remote wilderness experience The East End Lighthouse and a challenging coastline with few options for rough-water landing. Paddlers should be suitably equipped with cold-water immersion gear (drysuit or wetsuit), extra food and a quality VHF marine radio. Dense fog is common at Michipicoten Island throughout the paddling season; solid navigational skills are essential. Logistics: While we were able to thoroughly explore Michipicoten Island in three days, you’re best to allow five to seven days in case of wind and wave delays. Add at least a half-day on either end of the trip if you’re using a boat shuttle. If your skills are up to making the crossing to and from the island, bank on at least three days for both access and egress along the Superior Highlands coast from Michipicoten Bay. Plan on at least a five-day coastal paddle if you choose to access the crossing from the north via Pukaskwa National Park.
The result of 130 kilometres of paddling in less than four days
glassy calm, but fast-moving clouds warn of things to come. In the late afternoon, we land on a cobblestone beach at the tip of Bonner Head, take stock and decide that our best bet is to return to the mainland from here. We’ll let the 10-odd remaining kilometres that would complete our circumnavigation to the East End Lighthouse be reason for a future trip. Before crossing, we ceremoniously dump the pocketful of colourful stones we’ve picked up along the away. Consciences clear, the return crossing feels effortless. Michipicoten Island disappears in our wake as the setting sun bleaches the sky with golden light. Conor Mihell is a regular contributor to Superior Outdoors. He lives in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario 40
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Access: Boat shuttles are available to and from Michipicoten Island. While this service isn’t cheap, it affords peace of mind. Experts can paddle the 65 kilometres west from Michipicoten Bay or 130 kilometres south from Hattie Cove (Pukaskwa National Park) to make the 16- to 20-kilometre crossing to the island. The 180 kilometres of coastline between Hattie Cove and Michipicoten Bay are entirely undeveloped and isolated. When to Go: Late-July and early-August are most likely to be free of endless fog and days of gale force winds. Still, it makes sense to plan on one day of weather delay per five days of travel. Outfitter Services: Naturally Superior Adventures, Wawa, ON (800) 203-9092; Caribou Expeditions. Goulais River, ON (800) 970-6662. Boat Shuttles: Anderson’s Fisheries, Wawa, ON (705) 856-4835; McCuaig Marine Services, Marathon, ON (807) 229-0193 Resources: David C. Whyte’s self-published An Introduction to Michipicoten Island provides many historical insights into the island and describes the author’s kayak explorations of its coastline. Superior: Under the Shadow of the Gods by Barbara Chisholm and Andrea Gutsche (Lynx Images, 1999) makes excellent campfire reading. Maps (National Topographic Series, 1:50,000): 41 N/12, 41 N/13
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Bedazzled by
BASALT words & photos by Kas Stone
B
edazzled by basalt? Okay, I’ll admit that a basalt column doesn’t have quite the same cute, cuddly appeal as the otter that snuffled at us from the cove beside our campsite. And perhaps it lacks the majestic wilderness appeal of the young bald eagle that surveyed our progress from his cliff top perch high above our canoe. But for a basalt column, it was absolutely stunning! And for a rockhound like me, it was just one of the many geological delights that left me bug-eyed during our early spring paddling holiday in the new Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area. 42
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The author reflects on the volcanic genesis of Simpson Island’s basalt columns
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The National Marine Conservation Area (NMCA) is the world’s largest area of protected freshwater. It encompasses more than 10,000 square kilometres of Lake Superior coastline, lakebed and an island archipelago that stretches from the tip of the Sibley Peninsula, at the Sleeping Giant’s feet, to Bottle Point, at the apex of the vast northern shore. Within its boundaries lie some of Lake Superior’s most remote and staggeringly beautiful scenery. The NMCA showcases remarkable landscape features that remind us of the lake’s genesis in volcanic eruptions, cosmic collisions, and continental tear-ups. It’s an intoxicating mix for paddlers, hikers, and geology buffs, like me. My partner Rick and I never seem to cover much distance on our paddling holidays, and this journey in the NMCA was no exception. In fact, during the entire week we were never more than 20 kilometres (as the eagle flies) from our starting point at Rossport. You see, knocking off the kilometres is not why we go out there; rather, our aim is to explore the landscape and discover
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something about the creatures that call it home. We take our time, poking into bays and circling islands as we go. We like to get out of the canoe and investigate the shoreline on foot for a more intimate appreciation of its treasures, and hike to cliff top lookouts to admire their panoramic views. Often we’ll just sit on one of Superior’s cobble beaches and soak up the brooding atmosphere of this greatest of the Great Lakes and, sometimes we become so bedazzled by basalt that we can’t tear ourselves away. During periods of volcanic activity like the one that occurred about 1.1 billion years ago beneath what is now Lake Superior – when North America tried to split itself apart – magma flowed up from the mantle onto the Earth’s surface as lava and solidified there to form basalt. The magma didn’t always make it all the way to the surface, oozing instead into sub-surface bedrock cracks where it hardened into diabase. Basalt and diabase are closely related. They are both dense, dark-coloured rocks, rich in minerals like iron and magnesium. Both are very much
Traditional winter camping offers fishing opportunities in lakes that seldom see a fishing lure. - Nipigon Bay, St. Ignace Island Trek 2008
(left) Twilight brings an otherworldly glow to the cobble beaches and basalt headlands of Simpson Island (below) Basalt and diabase are very much evident in the landforms of northwestern Lake Superior, seen here in the massive cap rock of the Sleeping Giant, and the diabase dyke that forms the Sea Lion
(opposite) Waves have sculpted an arch in the basalt at the southern tip of Wilson Island.
evident in the landforms of northwestern Lake Superior, some oriented in horizontal sheets called sills (like the massive cap rock of the Sleeping Giant), others in vertical slabs called dykes (like the Sea Lion, near Silver Islet). Occasionally they form the parallel, vertical, polygonal structures popularly known as basalt columns. I had never seen a basalt column before except in geology texts, whose photographic examples are always from far-away places like the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. I’d heard rumours about basalt columns on Lake Superior’s Simpson Island and I kept my eyes peeled as we paddled along the island’s southern shore, hoping I wouldn’t miss them. Imagine my astonishment when they came into view – not the small, isolated patch I’d been expecting, but a massive phalanx stretching for more than a kilometre, from the mouth of Woodbine Harbour almost to Grotto Point. Some column outcrops stood bolt upright like soldiers. Others seemed to wilt, as if they’d been pummelled too many times by Superior’s gales and others were arranged almost whimsically, like scattered pieces from a Manitou’s puzzle. When substances cool, they contract, and when they cool very quickly, they contract too rapidly to absorb the stress, so they fracture. As lava spilled onto the Earth’s surface along the midcontinental rift, Simpson Island’s cool atmosphere caused the molten rock to solidify with such tremendous speed that it fractured to form the basalt columns. Measuring about a foot across and having between four and eight sides, some stand only a few feet high, while the tallest stretch skyward far above our heads. Seen from above they form a honeycomb pattern, like a
(above) Camping on the cobbles in the Lake Superior NMCA. (left) The Battle Island Lighthouse is perched high on a basalt bluff. Even so, waves smashed the windows out of its lantern room during a vicious storm in November 1977
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petrified hive left by giant geology bees. They were a honey of a find for us, and we spent many hours scrambling among them with our cameras, enjoying the play of light and shadows across their geometric surfaces. The basalt columns were not the only geological treasure we encountered during our week’s paddling holiday. Lake Superior is rich in volcanic features and its legendary storms have chewed extraordinary formations into the shoreline rocks. Wave-cut caves and arches abound along this coast and particularly fine examples can be seen on the headland at the southern tip of Wilson Island and in the cove just west of Simpson Island’s Grebe Point. Here, pounding water has excavated impressive hollows into weak areas in the bedrock. Erosion is a funny thing. Soft rocks wear away more quickly than hard rocks. But “hard” and “soft” are relative terms. On Lake Superior’s northeastern coast, basalt and diabase are relatively soft intruders, juxtaposed against the ancient metamorphic rocks of Pukaskwa National Park – the gneisses and greenstones that have endured for more than 2.5 billion years. Farther west, in the Lake Superior NMCA, basalt and diabase are durable by comparison, having resisted the ice and water that have ground down so much of the surrounding, predominantly sedimentary rock. They outcrop as the impressive cuestas and mesas (flat-topped, cliff-edged hills) that border Nipigon Bay, and in the natural amphitheatres and formidable bluffs that stand defiantly against Superior’s waves. The Battle Island lighthouse is perched on just such a bluff. Established in 1877, the present reinforced concrete tower was built in 1911. One of the last of the Great Lakes lighthouses to be automated and de-manned, it remains a comforting seasonal aid to navigation in troubled waters. Paddling along the base of the cliff and squinting up at the lantern room 120 feet above, it seems inconceivable that waves could smash the glass out of those windows. Yet, during a November gale in 1977, hurricane-force winds whipped Lake Superior into such a frenzy that waves did just that. This incident was very much on our minds as we spent a windbound day stranded on nearby Minnie Island, combing its beaches for treasures among the cobbles. On occasion, we wondered what madness had brought us here in our flimsy canoe – mere specks of flotsam in the larger scheme of things. Where surf now crashes against the shore, frothy lava once spewed from fissures deep beneath Lake Superior. When it solidified, bubbles of gas were
(right) Amygdaloidal basalt contains small cavities filled with crystallized minerals.
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Specializing in Guided Outdoor Adventures Mountain Biking Sea Kayaking Hiking Geo-caching Shuttles Nipigon, Ontario
807-887-1008 michael@epicadventures.ca
www.epicadventures.ca Ahnisnabae_SOMAGE_08.pdf
10/20/08
Ahnisnabae Art Gallery C
Our paddling holidays include plenty of stops to explore the shoreline on foot to appreciate its treasures from a different perspective. Y M
CM
trapped inside, peppering the resulting “vesicular basalt� rock with tiny cavities. Afterwards, mineral-laden water often percolated into these cavities and the minerals precipitated to form colourful crystals, called amygdules, that catch our eye as we paddle or hike along the shore. Agate, with its striking red (iron) and white (quartz) bands, is commonly found within these vesicles and, more rarely, the distinctive purplish quartz crystals prized as amethyst. Bedazzled by basalt? You bet! Al48
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ready, plans are afoot for our next visit to the NMCA. After all, with hundreds of convoluted kilometres of shoreline and countless geological (and other) distractions along the way, I can envision a great many holidays spent exploring this magnificent place.
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Kas Stone is a freelance author and photographer specializing in outdoor adventure and environmental themes.
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QueticoSuperior
100
1 9 0 9 - 2 0 0 9
John B Ridley Research Library
YEARS
Park ranger Bill Darby in front of old Cabin 16, Bassword Lake in 1912
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In 1909, Ernest Oberholtzer, a pioneer in preserving the Quetico-Superior region, made a canoe trip in Quetico with his Ojibwa friend Billy Magee. They saw moose almost every day; they were intrigued by the pictographs they encountered; they marvelled at the beauty of Rebecca Falls and Sue Falls; and they saw large stands of old pine, including a white pine on Jean Lake that they estimated to be one and one-half metres (five feet) in diameter. This was Oberholtzer’s first extensive trip into the Quetico-Superior region and the experience inspired him to dedicate his life to preserving its wilderness character. As Oberholtzer and Magee zigzagged across Quetico, in addition to the wondrous scenery and wildlife, they found many examples of human impact on the landscape. They saw foundations for the Hudson Bay Company post on the Pickerel Lake to Dore Lake portage, dams on the Maligne and Knife rivers, a logging camp on the Knife River, and a trading post on Basswood Lake. They also talked to rangers patrolling for poachers and putting out fires. And on numerous occasions they encountered Ojibwa people. During their journey they noticed pole structures for spearing sturgeon on the Namakan River; saw cedar strips drying for baskets and bear pelts hanging on racks at Lac La Croix; stayed on a site where birchbark canoes were made on Poohbah Lake; and came upon an Ojibwa couple in a birch-bark canoe using a blanket for a sail on Kawnipi Lake. Recalling his trip years later, Oberholtzer said that Quetico in 1909 was such a special place that the Indians felt “that there is a spiritual power back of it all.” He noted “it was no wonder that they had traditions and felt spirits in there, it had a spirituality about its appearance, you felt you were in kind of a magic land.” Native peoples have a long history in Quetico. Over twelve thousand years ago, near the end of the last ice age, PaleoIndians moved into the area. They were followed by a series of Native cultures culminating with the Sioux, Cree, and, finally, the Ojibwa, who inhabited the area when the first white settlers arrived. Those settlers, some of whom remained in the Quetico-Superior, were part of a diverse group of people that began traversing this terrain in the 1600s: European explorers searching for the Pacific Ocean, voyageurs transporting trade goods and furs, and surveyors and geologists paving the way for settling the area west of Lake Superior. As well, Grey Nuns travelling to Winnipeg in 1844 to set up a school; the 1870 Wolseley expedition to quell the Riel Rebellion in Manitoba; settlers heading west along the Dawson Route; and trappers, park rangers, poachers, timber cruisers, loggers, and miners all comprise just a small sample of those who have moved along Quetico's waterways after the arrival of the Europeans. One hundred years after Quetico was first set aside, we walk many of these same portages and pitch our tents on the same campsites where everyone from Paleo-Indians to Oberholtzer and Magee spent the night. We are fortunate that Quetico was protected early enough that its combination of a glorious, mainly undisturbed, landscape and its long and varied human history still retains the magic that Oberholtzer found in 1909.
An excerpt from Quetico: Near to Nature’s Heart by Jon Nelson
Billy Magee paddling in Quetico in 1909 photo courtesy of the Oberholtzer Foundation, Excelsior, Minnesota
We are fortunate that Quetico was protected early enough that its combination of a glorious, mainly undisturbed, landscape and its long and varied human history still retains the magic that Oberholtzer found in 1909.
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Sunrise in the Rawn Narrows of Pickerel Lake in Quetico Park photo by Jon Nelson
On February 13, 1909, the United States set aside the Superior National Forest. On April 1, 1909, just six weeks after the creation of the Superior National Forest, Ontario established the Quetico Forest Reserve.
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Although Native peoples, European explorers, and fur traders routinely traversed the Quetico-Superior region by canoe, it was very difficult to construct roads and railway lines through its maze of bedrock and water. Consequently, the QueticoSuperior was largely untouched by the industrial age until the late 1800s. When development came, however, it came with a rush. With the rapid depletion of natural resources, private citizens and government officials in both the United States and Canada were becoming increasingly concerned about the destruction and waste that accompanied the boom in logging and mining. Shan Walshe, an outstanding Quetico Park Naturalist from 1970 to 1991, noted that, “After hundreds of years of regarding the wilderness as an enemy to be exploited and destroyed, some people in the United States and Canada began to have a change of heart … fearing that their natural character and strength would disappear along with the wilderness.” The member of Ontario’s Parliament from Fort Frances, William A. Preston, was disturbed by the effects of hunting and poaching on game populations and worked to establish a game refuge in Quetico. He found an unexpected ally in officials of the Canadian Northern Railway, who thought that the railway could benefit if the Quetico area could be promoted as a tourist destination. The combined efforts of an unlikely coalition of fish and game associations, conservationists, railway executives, and government officials, were able to successfully make their case for protection for game animals. The interest on both sides of the border to create greater resource protection came to fruition in 1909. On February 13, 1909, the United States set aside the Superior National Forest. On April 1, 1909, just six weeks after the creation of the Superior National Forest, Ontario established the Quetico Forest Reserve. In retrospect, a remarkable degree of co-operation and foresight was shown by government agencies in both countries when they established these adjacent protected areas. The Order-in-Council that officially established the Quetico Forest Reserve declared: “in view of the large quantity of pine timber in this territory the lands therein should be withdrawn from location settlement or sale and kept in a state of nature as much as possible.” Although public pressure for a Quetico reserve came primarily from concerns over the plummeting number of moose, the creation of a forest reserve rather than a game reserve indicated that the desire to protect the large stands of pine was the Ontario government’s main reason for preservation. Protection of moose and other game animals was secondary to preserving timber, with its considerable economic value. The Forest Reserve status provided a refuge for game animals, but in order to give more protection to them, Quetico Provincial Park was created in 1913. Quetico was the third provincial park in Ontario and the first created under the new Provincial Parks Act. Park status provided stricter regulations to protect game animals and funding to enforce the regulations. However, while animals were now protected, logging, mining exploration, and commercial fishing were allowed. Quetico has undergone many changes since its beginnings as the Quetico Forest Reserve in 1909. The change in status to
a provincial park in 1913 gave protection to moose and other game animals, but allowed logging to occur. In 1972, logging was halted and in 1978 Quetico was given wilderness status. The Next Hundred Years Quetico’s designation as a wilderness park continues to protect it from logging and mining and its quota system has limited the abuse caused by over-use. More gradual, insidious forces, however, are currently at work. Acid rain, air pollution, and climate change do not respect park boundaries, and, as global pollution continues to increase, the water and air quality within Quetico Park is affected, as well. Anyone who has paddled in Quetico since the 1970s has noticed that the trend is for the ice to go out earlier and for lakes to freeze up later. The park lies in the transition zone between the boreal forests to the north and the primarily hardwood forests to the south. It seems as though Quetico Park is sliding south and becoming less boreal as the years go by. Researchers on both sides of the border have found that maples, oaks, and other southern deciduous trees are increasing, while black spruce, white birch, black ash, and northern pines are in decline. Lee Frelich, a researcher from the University of Minnesota who has studied the forest composition of the BWCAW for eighteen years, has concluded that the combination of global warming and invasive species is rapidly changing the composition of our forests. The boreal nature of QueticoSuperior forests is clearly diminishing. Due to the milder winters over the last two decades, animals that have trouble dealing with very cold conditions and deep snow are moving into the area as the weather warms and snow cover decreases. In addition to an increase in the number of white-tail deer, in recent years raccoons, grey fox, grey squirrels, skunks, and badgers have been seen in or near the Quetico-Superior area. Reports of cougar, who may be moving into the area because of the increase in deer populations, are also increasing. Managing wilderness areas like Quetico Park a delicate balancing act between protecting the environment without depleting the economic opportunities of the people in Atikokan who has the park in its backyard. Atikokan has been hard hit the last few decades with mine and mill closures, plummeting lumber prices, and the imminent closure of its coal-fired power plant. It is understandable that people in Atikokan have questions about how Quetico Park benefits them when so little of the economic benefits have flowed in their direction. Although wilderness values have to remain paramount for the long-term viability of Quetico Park, it is imperative that Atikokan residents begin to see more economic benefits coming from having a wilderness park on their doorstep. The Ontario definition of a wilderness park is a “substantial area where the forces of nature are permitted to function freely and where visitors travel by non-mechanized means and experience expansive solitude, challenge and personal integration with nature.” In the United States, the 1964 Wilderness Act defines wilderness as “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Both of these definitions seem to be in accord with the humorous definition of wilderness as
A canoe on the beach at “The Pines” on Pickerel Lake photo by Jon Nelson
Researchers on both sides of the border have found that maples, oaks, and other southern deciduous trees are increasing, while black spruce, white birch, black ash, and northern pines are in decline.
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Jon Nelson worked as a park ranger in Quetico from 1976 to 1987. He lives in Thunder Bay, Ontario.
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John B Ridley Research Library
In 1915 four gentlemen from Falls City, Nebraska, traveled for 30 days in the Quetico-Superior wilderness
a place “where the hand of man has never set foot.” The hand of man, however, set foot in the Quetico-Superior over twelve thousand years ago and has been there ever since. Native peoples have been an integral part of the Quetico-Superior area for thousands of years. To a large extent, their stewardship was responsible for the relatively intact state of the QueticoSuperior ecosystem when the area was protected in 1909. Over the last one hundred years, Quetico has evolved from a forest reserve visited by a few hundred people to a wilderness area that attracts thousands of canoeists from around the world. Today, it is still a magnificent merger of sculpted bedrock with water and northern pine forests. With the added attraction of timber wolves, moose, bald eagles, loons, northern lights, and lake trout in a landscape having the greatest concentration of aboriginal rock paintings in eastern North America, it is no wonder that Quetico Park is considered by many to be the finest canoeing park in the world. The protection given Quetico in 1909 and the resolve of people to make it a wilderness park allows us to paddle today in a Quetico that is very similar to what it was one hundred years ago. We can pass on a pristine Quetico to succeeding generations only if we continue fighting to maintain its wilderness character.
• New • Used • Trade-ins • Rentals • Courses • Tours • Outfitting • Maps & Permits • Wilderness Trip Route Plans Kayaks from: • Necky • Old Town • Seaward • Formula • Nigel Foster • Ocean
Canoes from: • Bell • Old Town • Wenonah • Scott • Smoothwater!
Try before you buy at our McIntyre River location in downtown Thunder Bay 856 N. Vickers St. Thunder Bay, ON 807-622-7200 w w w. k a y a k t h u n d e r b a y. c o m w w w. c a n o e t h u n d e r b a y. c o m
Don’t Miss these Great Summer Events! July 1 - Red Rock hosts Canada Day Celebrations July 18 & 19 - Pow Wow at Lake Helen July 30 - Euchre Tournament July 31 - Monster Bingo July 31 to August 3 - Blueberry Blast August 1 - Children’s Fireman Challenge | Celebration Dance August 2 - Town BBQ & Fish Pond & Tug-O-War August 7 to 9 - LIVE from the Rock Folk Festival September 4 to 7 - Nipigon Fall Fishing Festival September 26 - Hike for Health Celebration Week: July 25 - Aug.3, 2009
www.nipigoncentennial.ca
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reflections
Adam Harju (left) and Josh Olson (right) surfing ‘121’ Grand Marais, Minnesota photo by Brian Hansel
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Colin Gilbert rides a wave off ‘S.S’ Terrace Bay, Ontario photo by Amy Kukkee
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Unknown climber on Palisade Head Two Harbors, Minnesota photo by Jayasimha Murthy
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Discovering pictographs on Agnes Lake from Gary and Joanie McGuffin’s book, QUETICO: Into the wild photo by Gary and Joanie McGuffin
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Great Blue Heron Marina Park, Thunder Bay, Ontario photo by Aarre Ertolahti
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Black Bear Near Fort Frances, Ontario photo by Lee Oelke
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Beachcombing Neys Provincial Park, Ontario photo by Darren McChristie
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©GaryAndJoanieMcGuffin.com
Exporing the sea caves on Devil’s Island Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin photo by Aaron Peterson
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Home
Closer to
words and photographs by
Jon Heller
A
s a kid growing up, I caught the travel bug early. My family went on at least one major trip a year to places like Montana, Wyoming, Colorado and Idaho. This always filled my need for adventure. After graduating from photography school in Montana, I started to look for destinations could that satisfy my travel and photography bug while staying closer to my home in Bemidji, Minnesota. My first trip to the north shore area was Gooseberry Falls State Park, north of Duluth, to photograph the fall colours. It was on this trip that I discovered the Superior Hiking Trail. Superior Outdoors
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Previous page - Caribou Falls is on the Superior Hiking Trail and is accessible from a wayside rest on Highway 61 Clockwise from left - The Superior Hiking Trail is marked extremely well; An unnamed 20-foot waterfall on the Split Rock River; Stands of cedar trees are common along the entire length of the trail; The Split Rock River; The Drainpipe is a short, steep climb that doesn’t require ropes, but will probably require some scrambling
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Since that inaugural trip, I have made the drive from Bemidji to the Superior Hiking Trail countless times, in all four seasons. My more recent trips have been to a couple of my favorite sections of the trail. The Split Rock Lighthouse Loop (five miles) starts along Highway 61, follows the Split Rock River and comes back out about a quarter of a mile down the road from the parking lot. Two of my other favourites are out and back sections. The first, Caribou Falls, is accessible from Highway 61 and the second, Lake Country Road 5 to State Highway 1 (or Tettegouche State Park), is the most challenging section I have hiked. The Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) is a footpath that works its way through six state parks, stands of pines and hardwoods, countless waterfalls and some of the most rugged and beau-
tiful land that I have ever seen. The trail rivals those at the great national parks and stretches 205 miles from Two Harbors, Minnesota to the Canadian border. The trail follows a ridgeline above Lake Superior’s shoreline. Its lowest elevation is 602 feet above sea level and the trail tops out in the Jackson Lake area at 1,829 feet above sea level. The Superior Hiking Trail was conceived in the mid 1980s as a long-distance trail and was modeled after the Appalachian Trail. It was officially opened in July 1987 has since been maintained and expanded by the non-profit, member-based Superior Hiking Trail Association. The Association recently completed 39 miles of trail through the forests and ridges of Duluth and is now building 30 miles of trail between Two Harbors and Duluth. Superior Outdoors
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OVERLOOKS THE AGUASABON RIVER! o ver 50 s i t es ten ting & f u l l hook ups min u te s f r o m Terra c e B ay B eac h LOCATED ON THE CASQUE ISLES HIKING TRAIL!
Campground, general store, CANOE & KAYAK rentals P.O. Box 1090, Hwy. 17, Terrace Bay, ON P0T2W0 807-825-9773 www.ag u asab o n . c o m
Volunteers have worked hard to maintain trail conditions like these steps to help reduce erosion
A mere 200 people thru-hike the trail each year, logging, on average, ten miles a day to make for a three week long trip. There is a shuttle that can be used to hike between Two Harbors and Judge C.R. Magney State Park. Beyond this area, the hiking is unsupported. Summer and fall are, by far, the busiest times on the trail. But, I have found that it is very easy to find solitude along the trail if you get away from the state parks and, especially, if you can plan a midweek trip. The trail has 81 backcountry campsites and camping is free (no permit required), on a first-come-first-served basis. Most sites are large enough to accommodate two-to-three tents. If you just want to hike the trail, plan on making hotel reservations well in advance especially during the spectacle of fall colours. 68
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POSITIVE ENERGY
Outdoor (ED)Ventures KAYAKING ROCK CLIMBING
Water is readily available along the trail, but needs to be treated by either filtering, boiling or adding purification tablets. The best source to plan your trip is the Guide to the Superior Hiking Trail published by the Superior Hiking Trail Association. The guide includes detailed maps and information on the ecology and history of the area. Whether you are looking at going out for a few hours or a week or two, the Superior Hiking Trail can easily satisfy your need for adventure. The scenery is spectacular and, as an added bonus, you won’t have to deal with a mass of people.
Explore the incredible climbing and kayaking destinations near Duluth & along the North Shore.
Jon Heller is a professional photographer. He lives in Solway, Minnesota
corporate, groups, youth organizations, schools and families.
Call 218.428.5990 WWW.OUTDOOREDVENTURES.org
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• National Historic Site • Oldest Active Lighthouse on Superior • Restored Lighthouse & Life Saving Boathouse Tours • Edmund Fitzgerald Exhibit Featuring Bell • Shipwreck Museum Gallery & Theater • “Lake Superior's Shipwreck Coast” • Nature Trails & Overlooks • Whitefish Point Bird Observatory • Gifts Shop & Food Concession • Overnight On-Site Accommodations Available 888-492-3747
Whitefish Point, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula
W WSafety W. S H I7x4.26:Layout P W R E C K M U1S E4/28/09 U M .CO M • 8AM 0 0 -Page 6 3 5 1- 1 74 2 OPG Water 11:38
Recreational activities near hydro stations and dams are dangerous Stay clear of hydroelectric stations, dams, shorelines and surrounding waterways. Hydro stations operate year-round and affect water flows and ice conditions. Water that looks safe can become treacherous in minutes. Ice that forms near, or even several kilometers away can be dangerous. Obey all warnings, signs, booms and buoys. If you see water levels changing, move a safe distance away immediately.
Visit opg.com to receive your free water safety DVD or children’s computer game.
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DON’T GET CAUGHT WITH YOUR PANTS DOWN!
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12th Annual
OODEN BOAT SHOW & SUMMER SOLSTICE FESTIVAL
‘09 June 19-21
PELICAN L AKE S ASKATCHEWAN | ER NEST OBERHOLTZER - OBERHOLTZER
FOUNDATION |
11 JULY 1912
PROTECT AGAINST
GIARDIA
E.COLI O157:H7 TYPHOID FEVER HEPATITUS A & E TRAVELLERS’ DIARRHEA
SALMONELLA, CHOLERA DYSENTRY ENTOMOEBA HISTOLYTICA, NAEGLERIA FOWLER CAMPYLOBACTER & MORE!
Available at Fine Outdoor Retailers
www.aquatabs.ca
Why drive hours to go camping?
H AYES R IVER | ER NEST OBERHOLTZER -
OBERHOLTZER FOUNDATION |
4 O CTOBER 1912
M OUTH OF THE T HLEWIAZA RIVER | ER NEST OBERHOLTZER - OBERHOLTZER 12 S EPTEMBER 1912
FOUNDATION |
COMPLETE PROGRAM AVAILABLE
www.northhouse.org / 888.387.9762
waterfront wooden boat display harborside barbeque community contra dance wooden boat speaker series lake superior chowder chowdown boats-to-tools auction wooden boat show film festival summer solstice pageant LEGACY OF ER NEST OBERHOLTZER AND THE FOUNDING OF THE QUETICO / SUPERIOR WILDER NESS steam bent brunch harbor wooden boat parade
FEATURED G UEST ,
B OB H ILKE C URATOR OF THE ER NEST OBERHOLTZER PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTION FEATURED P RESENTATION - TOWARD M AGNETIC N OR TH ,
North House Folk School
On The Harbor In Grand Marais, Minnesota
2009
PACT NITY IM COMMU NGAGEMENT E R O F D AWAR
Teaching Traditional Crafts Free Course Catalog Available
WTIP
North Shore Community Radio
Try one of our municipal camgrounds with: Cabin rentals (Chippewa) Tent & Trailer sites Electrical hook-ups Laundry facilities Grocery store Showers & souvenirs Chippewa Park Trowbridge Falls 807-623-3912 807-683-6661
WTIP North Shore Community Radio has been honored with a national Community Impact Award for Engagement for their award-winning work during the Ham Lake Fire of 2007
Hear their story at
wtip.org w ww.t h u n d e r ba y. c a
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90.7 FM GRAND MARAIS 91.7 FM UPPER GUNFLINT TRAIL
Read about it > Superior Outdoors
Superior Outdoors
Superior Outdoors Polar Bears in Ontario
Free poster offer inside!
project peregrine P.32
How they are at risk
pg. 24
pg. 72
magazine of the north shore
magazine
m ag az i n e
OUR
ST FIRSU E IS
PHOTO ESSAY
Woodsmoke &Ice Canvas The Allure of Traditional
Surfs Up with Jaakko Natri P.14
Once Around A circumnavigation
Kayaking Heritage Coast Sailing the North Shore the
of the big lake P.36
P.18
Winter Camping
Superior
P.50
National Marine Conservation Area What’s next?
P.30
Climbing Nipigon
P.11
Reflections: the Best Outdoor Photography
P.30
Big Thunder
EXCLUSIVE REPORT
24Hours of Kamview A grind for a good cause
P.24
WHERE ICE MEETS SKY P.36
P.30
PLUS
PLUS: SUMMER 08
RAFTING THE ST. LOUIS RIVER MOUNTAIN BIKING SHUNIAH MINES AN INTERESTING CANOE TRIP circa 1852
Canada/US $4.95
Travel Live from the Rock Hike St. Ignace Island Paddle The Baptism River
WINTER 08/09
Canada/US $4.95
Display until May 15
P.26
PLUS
The Lake
Algoma Backcountry THE SNOWFLEA EFFECT
84
0
62825 22634
Travel UMD Kite Expo Ski Sleeping Giant Loppet Weather Lake Effect Snow
8
www.SuperiorOutdoors.ca
Go there > Introducting the Superior EcoTour, a new green travel resource for the Lake Superior Circle Tour. A map-based, searchable online directory of the greenest businesses on the Lake Superior Circle Tour. A growing database of route and trail information for adventure sports in the Lake Superior basin.
superior
ECO
tour
www.SuperiorEcoTour.com Superior Outdoors
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Perspective
Victoria’s Secret For all those who marvel at the Sleeping Giant, here is another equally astounding and recognizable feature. Lying 20 kilometres northeast of the international border on Lake Superior’s northern shore, this well kept secret has been cleverly hidden on Victoria Island among the orange lichens and white birches. This pensive face has stared out over the waters of Lake Superior since the last ice age. One can only imagine what is has witnessed. To discover Victoria’s Secret, you must position yourself at the following location, facing east: UTM: 16 U 0326468 5329081 LAT/LONG: N 48.09135 W 089.33049. Kevin Green
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Photos from
MyTBay.ca
THE LARGEST FRESH WATER BODY IN THE WORLD, and hours of entertainment in the summer sun.
It’s in our nature.
www.visitthunderbay.com