Polar Ambitions
Eric Larsen’s tripolar quest
Superior Outdoors pg. 24
magazine of the north shore The 25th annual
Running of the Beargrease P.50
Wild Gvora portrait of a nature photographer P.30
Giant Skate the story that spawned the magazine P.36
PLUS: WINTER 2007 Canada/US $4.95
ISSN 1913-4444
Travel The Agawa Snow Train Ski The Cross Quetico Tour Ice Climb Learn with the ACC
contents
features A Giant Realization
An epic 50km day trip to one of the wonders of Canada
36
Polar Ambitions
Eric Larsen’s record setting attempt at three poles in one year by John-Paul Marion
by Andrew Hail
Wild Gvora
Portrait of a nature photographer
24
30
The Running of the Beargrease History comes alive in this north shore classic
by Tiffany Jarva
50
by Elle Andra-Warner
Letters 4
Routes 16
Weather 5
Arts and Literature 22
Superior Styles 7
Reflections 42
Sustainable Developments 8
Event Listing 56
The Food Chain 13
Perspective 60
Gregg Johns
departments P.30
Chris Stromberg
P.16 On the cover: Abner and Fittipaldi lead author Michael Perry on a multi-day camping trip on Esther Lake just south of the Boundary Waters. Photo by ŠLayne Kennedy This page: Local adventurer Paul Berger enjoying a fine day skating on Lake Superior. Photo by Julian Holenstein
Superior Outdoors
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hike
canoe
camp dine
laugh
bird watch
kayak shop
bike explore photograph
breathe
Superior Outdoors
winter 07/08
magazine of the north shore
Editor-in-chief/Design Darren McChristie Art Director John-Paul Marion Contributing Editor Michael O’Reilly
ski laugh dine skate
escape
thrill
Copy Editors Michelle McChristie, Lynn Marion
enjoy shop
explore wonderland
breathe
Editorial Consultant Michael O’Reilly Business Manager Doug McChristie Contributing Writers Elle Andra-Warner, Andrew Haill, Tiffany Jarva, JohnPaul Marion, Carol Martin, Darren McChristie, Michelle McChristie, Conor Mihell, Michael O’Connor, Michael O’Reilly, Shaun Parent, Frank Pianka, Justina C. Ray, Graham Saunders, Chris Stromberg Contributing Photographers Dr. Allan Bruce, Nick Buda, Jarron Childs, Daniel J. Cox, Lonnie Dupre, Gregg Johns, Chris Gibbs, Tom Gvora, Andrew Haill, John Hawkins, Julian Holenstien, Layne Kennedy, Kit Larson, Brent Linton, John-Paul Marion, Gary McGuffin, Michael O’ Connor, Michael O’Reilly, Frank Pianka, Lori Fox Rossi, Les Stone, Tom Stephenson, Marilyn Stevens, Chris Stromberg, Denny Warner Publisher The Boreal Company Advertising Sales/Distribution Michelle McChristie Superior Outdoors is published twice a year: Summer (June) and Winter (November)
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Copyright © 2008 by The Boreal Company, All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without written permission is strictly forbidden. Views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively.
Nor’West Outdoor Centre An Outdoor Adventure Centre Specializing in Team and Trust building Summer/Fall Activities
adventure challenge course climbing wall 50’ pole climb caving bouldering rock climbing school
1114 Mountain Road Thunder Bay, Ontario 807-475-8346 www.cqo2000.com
Winter/Spring Activities snowshoeing kicksledding down hill sledding backcountry snowboarding wilderness survival orienteering
Editorial and Advertising: Submissions must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Superior Outdoors cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material. Published by The Boreal Company Suite 242, 1100 Memorial Avenue, Thunder Bay, Ontario P7B 4A3 Telephone (807) 627-3017; Fax (807) 623-5122 E-mail: info@superioroutdoors.ca Disclaimer: the activities described and illustrated herein are performed by trained athletes and could result in serious bodily injury; do not attempt them without proper training, safety equipment, and supervision. The Boreal Company is not responsible for injuries sustained by readers or failure of equipment described or illustrated herein. ISSN Number 1913-444 Canada Post Publications Agreement Number 41497554 Printed in Canada on Acid and Elemental Chlorine Free, Post-Consumer Recycled Paper Superior Outdoors Inc donates 1% of all sales to 1% for the Planet www.onepercentfortheplanet.com
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Superior Outdoors
intro Andrew Haill
W
hen I was a kid, I often had to walk through three feet of snow to get to school (it was also uphill both ways). Clearing the driveway required a shovel, not a broom. And when our bikes were put away for the season, it meant we couldn’t ride them again until April. But last winter, my sorels barely made it out of the basement. Let’s face it - winter is not what it used to be. The last ten winters have been the warmest on record and snow accumulation has been only a fraction of the normal amount. This may be good news for an avid hiker, runner, or dog walker, but it is borderline disastrous for those of us who prefer to glide on, or otherwise play in, the white stuff. As an adult, I still measure the quality of a winter by the number of snow days. Making the best of a bad situation is all about attitude and action. Realizing that you do not have any control over the situation is important, but your response is what really matters. While we can wallow in our misery or travel to other destinations, we can also make the most of the season by enjoying the winter conditions using whatever means necessary. I know it’s hard. We don’t like to change our roof rack accessories out of synch with the seasons. Last year, several lakes around the north shore froze quickly and had little snow cover; conditions that created some of the world’s finest, and largest skating rinks. The ice inspired people to strap on their skates to play hockey, kite skate, and, in the case of two local adventurers, complete a long distance
Making the best of a bad situation - kite skating Lake Marie Louise
skate to the shores of the Sleeping Giant. It was this epic day trip that spawned the idea of this magazine. I knew there was an interesting story to be told. A local story of adventure not set on Mount Everest or the Rocky Mountains, but here in our backyard, in the heart of the continent. If it were not for a lackluster snow year, this magazine might not have come to exist. In this issue we have brought you stories about a north shore resident’s quest to reach the three poles in a single year, a wildlife photographer who draws his inspiration from Grey Owl, and one of the area’s most celebrated winter events - the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon. The north shore will be a flurry of activity this winter and we encourage everyone to attend at least one event for their first time and try something new. I’m not sure what a smoosh race is (try saying that ten times), but I’m all for it and I might throw in a polar bear dip to show that I really am a good sport. The event listing is packed with hiking, running, snowshoeing, skiing and cultural events but, keep in mind, that there could be changes depending on the weather. Be sure to check the event’s website to avoid finding yourself in the wrong place, at the wrong time. Most of all, enjoy winter because, regardless of the weather, Lake Superior will always offer some unique outdoor adventures. -D. McChristie Superior Outdoors
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letters Filling a Void This will be my third winter in Thunder Bay, having relocated from the US. I have always been an outdoorstype person who participates in many activities including kayaking, canoeing, mountain biking, downhill skiing, cross country skiing, hiking, camping, and running. What a delight, to encounter your new, very professional, high quality, informative, publication, Superior Outdoors. Your magazine fills a void for me and provides one venue PLUS I can count on to provide first-hand informative regional outdoors articles, a calendar of upcoming events, and the ability to access additional data about any particular subject via the Internet and the websites addresses your writers have so thoughtfully provided. Thanks for your efforts and I wish you continued growth and success.
Superior Outdoors project peregrine P.10
magazine of the north shore
OUR
T FIRS SUE IS
Surfs Up with Jaakko Natri P.22
Sailing the North Shore P.28
Keeping Pace with the Voyageurs P.34
Reflections: the Best Outdoor Photography P.40
SUMMER 2007
Canada $4.95 U.S. $4.50
ISSN 1913-4444
THE QUANDARY OF FOOD MILES MOUNTAIN BIKING SHUNIAH MINES AN INTERESTING CANOE TRIP circa 1886
Craig Wolverton Thunder Bay, Ontario
An Abundance of Opportunities As a former resident of Northwestern Ontario and long time outdoor enthusiast, I was thrilled to receive your first edition in the mail. Lake Superior’s shores are home to an abundance of world class outdoor opportunities and I hope more people get out and explore after reading your magazine. While reading, I thought fondly of the many adventures and mishaps of my past around Lake Superior. I was also excited to read about the many new areas for me to explore! Keep up the good work and I look forward to your next issue. Respectfully Submitted Wayne Guitard Vancouver, British Columbia 4
Superior Outdoors
Hometown Proud We grew up with Lake Superior and the north shore in our backyard; now living in Texas we have shared your magazine with our friends and neighbours to give them a sense of the beauty of our homeland. We look forward to your next issue. Cindy Johnson and Brian Roper Longview, Texas
Anteeksi Our apologies to north shore surfers Jaakko and Mikko Natri for misspelling their names in our last issue. -Ed.
Send your letters to: editor@superioroutdoors.ca
Friends of Quetico Park Seeking a motivated individual to be our Communications and Marketing Coordinator • Develop user friendly website • Assist with promotions • Assist with communications and marketing of the organization You must be a recent graduate and under 29 years of age. This position is partially funded by Fednor
Seeking Graphic Artist to create Quetico Park 2009 Centenial Logo
Contact
administration@friendsofquetico.com for details on either project
weather Julian Holenstein
A slice of ice Ice formation in early winter on lakes and rivers has always been welcomed by northerners. It allowed short cuts for transportation and sometimes access to locations impractical to reach in other seasons. Journals of Hudson’s Bay Company trading posts had notes and dates about first ice formation, when ice was safe to use and other remarks about ice conditions. Ice formation on Lake Superior connected the village of Silver Islet on the Sibley Peninsula, (the Sleeping Giant) with Port Arthur, now known as Thunder Bay. In the 1870s and early 1880s, there was regular mail service by sleigh and dog team in the winter months. Modern times have brought variations of the above. A network of winter roads facilitates the delivery of goods and construction materials as far north as Hudson and James Bay. However, milder winters, notably in the last decade, have delayed formation of ice thick enough to permit large vehicles to cross some lakes and streams. A few people at various locations continue the tradition of keeping ice records. A group of people at Amethyst Harbour has wagers on the date that uninterrupted ice will be in place between their homes and cliffs on the other side. Losers have a chance to recover in the spring with a prediction of the final day with ice visible. Ice formation in Lake Superior generally begins in sheltered and shallow bays in November. It extends from shorelines as water temperatures decline. Mid-lake ice formation takes place several weeks earlier in very cold winters. In the 20th century, monthly ice cover during mild
and severe winters ranged from 17 to 87 per cent. Typically, maximum ice cover occurs during the last half of February with total coverage in the order of 75 per cent. Satellite records from 1973 to the present suggest that total ice coverage, if and when it occurs, lasts for only a matter of days. Spring break-up usually begins in March but ice may not be completely melted on some sheltered shorelines until May. Researchers Jay Austin and Steven Colman, of the Great Lakes Observatory in Duluth, Minnesota have noted that ice cover influences several processes of Lake Superior. They have attributed part of a rapid summer warming trend in Lake Superior to later ice formation, and declines in the duration and extent of ice in recent decades. Because ice puts a lid on evaporation, its reduced formation directly influences the water balance of Lake Superior. Massive losses of water occur in the absence of this lid, especially from November to January. In addition, major evaporation occurs during the fall to mid-winter as cold, dry west and northwest winds blow over the relatively warm lake waters. Average water temperatures are 7° to 9° C (45° to 48°F) in early November. This is often at least 20 degrees warmer than airflow immediately above. This is unlike smaller lakes in the region where evaporation rates are highest in summer and complete ice coverage takes place in the fall. For this winter’s ice, the Amethyst Harbour group have not all cast their ballots yet. December 9th or 11th has been mentioned in the advance polls. Graham Saunders Superior Outdoors
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Superior Outdoors
superiorstyles
First Ascent
north of superior climbing archives
28 years of exploring rock and ice I first placed my hands on the rock of Superior in the fall of 1979 after I had enrolled at Lakehead University. During that season, I began exploring many of the sites that have made the north shore a destination for rock and ice climbing. For the next 21 years, climbing the area around Thunder Bay was one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. As a person who led the way in the sport of rock and ice climbing, there were plenty of hurdles to overcome. At times it was difficult to recruit new climbers and not many were keen on bushwhacking, cleaning cracks and risking failure on first ascents. Orient Bay was the focus of many such trips. Paul Dedi and I first visited Orient Bay in 1981, unaware that the site had also been discovered by two climbers from the Outward Bound School on Sturgeon Lake. Orient Bay is unique for forming waterfalls and seeps as the rock is composed of an impervious rock unit a known as a diabase sill. Water that collects on the top runs off the edges as it cannot drain through the rock unit itself. This groundwater seeps and forms waterfalls when the temperature plummets below freezing. My most recent visit to Orient Bay to ice climb was Shaun on a prospecting in 2006 on the 25th annivertrip in the Andes sary of our first ascent of the climb “Tempest”. As is typical in the month of March, the weather was conducive to superb ice climbing. Further east of Thunder Bay, I explored and developed climbs in new areas such as Nipigon and Kama Bay. Back in the mid 1980s, I visited Agawa Canyon after seeing a photo of a frozen waterfall named Bridalveil Falls. Since then, the North of Superior Climbing Company has continued to develop the area and there are now over 125 ice climbs. We have set up a semi-permanent base camp, and found an access route to the canyon by snowmobile for day trips with clients. The canyon is also accessible by train from either Wawa or Sault Ste. Marie. The Batchawana and Agawa areas hold immense potential for rock and ice climbing. Cliffs in this region can be higher than 200 meters. The longest climb in the mid-continent, “Stratosfear”, is found near Agawa Canyon and is 230 metres high. I live on Lake Superior near Batchawana Bay, a short 15 minute drive to the nearest ice climb and 20 minutes to the nearest rock climbing site. It is possible for me to snowmobile from my property to Agawa Canyon in two hours. When winter arrives there will be many more ice climbs to develop. Last
north of superior climbing archives
Shaun leads a climb in the Agawa Canyon
winter, my climbing partner, Darcie Pickren, and I discovered more than 80 single and multi pitch ice climbs which we hope to guide and develop over the next few years. After nearly 30 years in this sport, I have yet to exhaust the potential to discover and develop new climbs and promote the north shore. Shaun Parent operates the North of Superior Climbing Company, he is also an avid paraglider and prospector. Using skills he has developed over a span of 30 years, he climbs cliffs, paraglides from them and searches for undiscovered gold, silver and copper deposits. For more info: www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com.
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sustainabledevelopments Wolverines in Ontario
Collaborative research examines the decline of the species in the province Until a few years ago, few people in Ontario knew that a creature as intriguing as the wolverine resided in the province. A member of the weasel family, this short-legged, stocky animal is about the size of a medium-sized dog and, incredibly enough, resembles a cross between a badger, skunk and a small bear. It has dark fur with a shaggy appearance and light patches on its chest that usually extend as bands on its flanks. Recently, the wolverine was designated as a species at risk in Ontario and, as a result, it has become the subject of focused research. Wolverines were assigned the status of “threatened” in Ontario in 2004 because of a combination of factors - a decline of the species’ range in the province by more than 50%, an increasing threat of resource development activities in areas where it presently occurs, and low reproductive rates and large home range sizes that render populations slow to recover from losses. Although the range of wolverines once extended as far as the southern tip of Lake Huron, the current stronghold barely extends south of Red Lake. Their disappearance from southern Ontario appears to have occurred fairly rapidly in a similar pattern to that of woodland caribou during the 1800s and early 1900s, a period characterized by a large increase in human settlement, logging and railroad construction. In Canada, wolverine distribution is primarily confined to the western part of the country, with Ontario representing the limit of the species’ eastern range. Typical habitat for this elusive creature is characterized by mountain forests or tundra. East of the Rocky Mountains, in the boreal forest, harvest levels and relative abundance drop off significantly. This is also a region where wolverines have received less research and survey attention. The Ontario Wolverine Project was initiated in 2002 to help resolve 8
Superior Outdoors
some of the unknowns about Ontario’s boreal population, including its distribution, habitat needs, and the impacts of forestry operations and roads. Researchers from the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, the Wildlife Conservation Society Canada, and The Wolverine Foundation have now conducted aerial surveys of wolverine tracks during three winters over the northern half of the province (500,000 km2). In the Red Lake region, seven radio-collared individuals were followed over the course of a year and documented average home ranges of about 500 km2 for females and 1700 km2 for males and one den site. The conflict between wolverines and humans is a key factor in the recovery of the species, thus considerable effort has been spent interviewing over 135 elders and trappers in northern communities to develop an understanding of how people and wolverines interact. Much folklore surrounds this creature, who is known in legends as a conniving thief and wanderer, although respected
for its human-like intelligence. An important step in securing a future for the species will be to provide information to trappers on methods to minimize incidental captures of wolverines in traps set for other species. Proposals to expand logging, mining, hydroelectric corridors, and roads north of the 51st parallel raise concerns about the persistence of vulnerable species such as wolverines and caribou. This increases the need for continued long-term study, the development of comprehensive land-use plans prior to development activities, and aggressive monitoring plans. Justina C. Ray is the Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society of Canada and an adjunct professor with the Faculty of Forestry, University of Toronto.
sustainabledevelopments
“Much folklore surrounds this creature, who is known in legends as a conniving thief and wanderer, although respected for its human-like intelligence.�
Daniel J. Cox/NaturalExposures.com
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Saving Stokely
Grassroots organization raising funds to protect Ontario’s finest cross-country ski area It’s business as usual this winter at Stokely Creek, an unusually fine network of more than 125 kilometres of Nordic ski trails located 35 kilometres north of Sault Ste. Marie. A partnership was struck between the Algoma Highlands Conservancy (AHC), a grassroots environmental group, and Astina Establishment, the private landowner, to ensure that Stokely’s world-class network of trails will be maintained and motorized vehicle-free. The agreement has the added bonus of giving the AHC exclusive rights to purchase 1,050 hectares of unique mixed hardwood hillside on the slopes of neighbouring King Mountain, the highest peak in the area at more than 600 metres. AHC president Dr. Doug Pitt, a researcher with the Canadian Forest Service, says the land use arrangements are based on partnership, not compromise. “The AHC isn’t the only good guy here,” says Pitt. “Our partnership with Astina will prevent the area from being purchased by loggers.” Pitt says that not only will the partnership keep the ski trails open, it will also protect provincially rare flora and fauna, including red spruce and eastern wolf. While the AHC has already raised the $500,000 to take over Stokely Creek Lodge and guest cabins, the only hitch in the plan is the $1.5 million remaining to buy King Mountain. Pitt is optimistic that the organization will be able to secure the funds in the remaining year and a half it has to finish the deal. Stokely Creek’s cross-country ski trails form a spider’s web across 3,400 hectares of mixed hardwood hills north of Lake Superior and Sault Ste. Marie. The late Charles Peterson started grooming the trails in the 1970s and laid the groundwork for a lodge and chalets. Peterson hoped the word of his excellent trails would spread, as well as the threats to the region imposed by commercial forestry. Stokely’s classic, skating and backcountry trails now rank the 10
Superior Outdoors
©GaryandJoanieMcGuffin.com
sustainabledevelopments
Stokely classic, skating and backcountry trails rank the fourth largest in North America.
fourth largest in North America. The area is also popular among hikers. The Voyageur Trail crosses the property and climbs to the top of King Mountain, offering several spectacular lookouts over Lake Superior’s Whitefish Bay. The Europe-based Astina Establishment purchased the lodge and surrounding property from Peterson’s estate in 2006 with the intention of developing a long-term forest management plan for the area. The organization already owned nearly 20,000 hectares north of Sault Ste. Marie. Astina announced that they have no interest of maintaining the lodge and Nordic ski trails, but were willing to negotiate an exclusive purchase price with the AHC. This winter, the AHC will manage the trails and run Stokely Creek Lodge out of its cash reserves. While Pitt envisions the area to be operational into “the foreseeable future,” he hopes the AHC will be able to find another party to run Stokely. He says the only thing different about skiing at Stokely this winter will be the option to donate money to ensure its survival
Conor Mihell is a kayaking guide and a naturalhabit_ad1_6.pdf 10/14/07 freelance writer living in Wawa, Ontario.
For more info go to www.stokelycreek.ca
www.naturalhabit.ca
C
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modern organic wise
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279 Bay Street Thunder Bay 807-345-4423
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sustainabledevelopments The Lake Superior Challenge
To conserve and protect for future generations “In July 1983 when we dipped our paddles for the first time into Lake Superior, we were part way into a voyage across Canada by canoe from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Beaufort Sea. We experienced for the first time the inspiring grandeur and scope of Lake Superior’s watershed.” With these words Gary and Joanie McGuffin, adventurers and outdoor journalists, described their first encounter with Lake Superior. That seminal experience set in motion events that led to their involvement with the Lake Superior Conservancy and Watershed Council. “When we arrived at the top of the Great Lakes watershed, it was a major milestone in our voyage, and a place that served to inspire us to circumnavigate this inland sea by canoe in 1989. We came to know Lake Superior, in its four seasons, as a magnificent entity binding nations together by way of water, geography, geology, history, people, and bird migrations,” said Gary McGuffin. “However, despite the relatively small human population and the seemingly abundant freshwater surrounded by forested landscape...we know that today, and looking forward into the 21st century, that the Lake Superior watershed is under threat,” added Joanie McGuffin. The Lake Superior watershed has long provided the minerals, trees and fish to support its local communities. This wealth has been all but exhausted. And now that freshwater, not oil, is this century’s most valuable commodity worldwide, pressures are building to access the lake’s greatest asset, the water itself. “Lake Superior and its watershed is our Home, and the spirit of the land is part of that Home. It is a Home we are privileged to share with wolves, caribou, moose, lynx, bears, eagles and a myriad of creatures great and small. We believe
©GaryandJoanieMcGuffin.com
A group photo of this year’s participants in the LSCWC’s annual fundraising event, Paddle for Superior. Next year’s fundraiser is slated for August 23, 2008.
our daughter Sila, and all the children of tomorrow, have a birthright to inherit a world rich with the complex diversity of life, places where we only hear the sounds of nature, and the gift of air and water free of toxins. We believe that there is still is an opportunity to make this a reality here in the Lake Superior watershed. It can, and will be, an example for the rest of the world,” said the McGuffins. The Lake Superior Conservancy and Watershed Council (LSCWC) was founded in 2004 by an international board of directors to conserve and protect the waters and ecological assets of Lake Superior and its watershed. LSCWC is a non-profit organization with charitable status in both Canada and the United States. Its mission is to ensure the long-term sustainable health of Lake Superior through basin-wide communication, education, scientific study, preservation and conservation of the lake and its ecosystems. LSCWC opened its international head office in Sault Ste. Marie in 2006.
The LSCWC is not alone in its efforts, there are a multitude of individuals, volunteer groups, and organizations engaged in projects to protect lakes, streams, rivers, shoreline, and wetlands. There are numerous provincial, state, national and international agencies and academic institutions engaged in specific management and research projects within the Lake Superior basin. As stated by Brian Christie, Executive Director, “There is a tremendous amount of energy building with a focus on protecting the Great Lakes in general and Lake Superior in particular. Our founding members and supporters recognize that we have an opportunity to make a significant contribution to the future of the greatest freshwater lake on earth, for now and for future generations.” For more information, visit www.lscwc.org Carol Martin is a news reporter with Soo News.
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07 Canada Challenge Ad v5
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the foodchain
From Pemmican to Power Bars Food choices for winter camping
The Ojibway packed pemmican, the Canadian Armed Forces pack lasagna, and a polar explorer packs energy bars. Food processing techniques have evolved and so have the types of food that people rely on during winter camping trips or expeditions. Caloric content, the balance of protein, fat and carbohydrates, and weight are some of the factors people consider but, the menu selections are more a result of the reasons for being out in the cold in the first place. Elizabeth Moore of Eagle’s Earth Cree & Ojibway Historical Centre describes the diet of her ancestors before European contact and the introduction of processed foods. Although people generally stayed close to their camp throughout the winter, men left to hunt in times of food shortages. They traveled light, carrying only “a bow and arrow and a small bag for food”. Pemmican was their main source of sustenance; it is a mixture of smoked and dried meat that has been pounded into a powder, and combined with water, berries and fat. There are several variations on the content but, basically, pemmican is a source of protein and fat. The Canadian Military has a much different approach. Warrant Officer David Coupland enlisted in the Armed Forces in 1986 and spent five years training Rangers in the Northwest Territories. He described the Individual Meal Packages (IMPs) - food rations that are precooked and prepackaged. A typical day’s meals consist of a ham omelette and oatmeal for breakfast, beef stew for lunch, and lasagna for supper. Meals come with dessert, juice crystals, and snacks. Preparation is simple – place the foil bag in hot water. Dieticians do not recommend eating IMPs for extended periods but Warrant Officer Coupland defends the high calorie, high fat content because the physically demanding work requires additional calories. Besides the concerns expressed by dieticians, he noted that IMPs are heavy and that they “haven’t changed much in 21 years”. An alternative approach to food preparation for winter camping involves the use of freeze drying and vacuum packing. For a polar explorer, the food must be lightweight (1 3⁄4 pounds per day) and easily digested while providing adequate calories to maintain a high level of activity and warm body temperature. Lonnie Dupre, from Grand Marais, has traveled over 14,000 miles throughout the high arctic and polar regions. Lonnie avoids simple carbohydrates and refined foods because they are harder to digest. A typical day’s meals consist of oatmeal with goat milk powder, raisins, nuts, and dried molasses for breakfast, an energy bar with salami and cheese for lunch, and buckwheat noodles and lentils with added seasonings, olive oil or clarified butter for supper. He also takes a double dose of timed-release multi vitamin. Lonnie considers the temperature and his level of physical activity when planning and preparing meals – additional fat is added as required. Food choices for winter camping seem to be coming full circle. Polar explorers avoid processed foods and many of the
types of food in an IMP (although a feast of salisbury steak now and then would probably be a welcome addition to the menu). It is common practice for Rangers or polar explorers to incorporate traditional foods into their meal plans. Dried caribou, arctic char, halibut, and seal meat are common selections – foods relied upon for survival for centuries. Michelle McChristie
In Superior Outdoors’ own completely unscientific test, the Littlbug Stove lit easily, even using wet birch bark and damp kindling. It took about 10 minutes to burn to a cooking flame. The stove boiled a litre of water in about eight minutes, using far less wood than a normal cooking fire.
A Stove with a Conscience Save the environment, employ people with disabilities, support international humanitarian projects, and cook your dinner! Seems a bit much to expect from a simple camp stove, but this is the promise Littlbug Enterprises makes with the sale of each of their products. Of course, the Littlbug is no ordinary stove. Its inventor, Kent Hering, is an environmentalist and an outdoor enthusiast. To get away from burning fossil fuels while out on the trail, Hering hit on this innovative design. The Littlbug burns wood or denatured alcohol, so no net CO2 goes into the atmosphere. It is simple, durable, very light, and it folds down to almost nothing. Plus, Hering commits to donating “at least 10% of the profits to help care for the earth and its inhabitants.” But perhaps best of all, it really works. It assembles easily, lights quickly, burns very little wood, and heats up fast. The only downside is that disassembly is a bit messy since the stove is covered in soot. The stoves are manufactured by the Occupational Development Center in Thief River Falls, Minnesota. The ODC provides job opportunities for individuals with disabilities. Check out www.littlbug.com for all the details. Michael O’Reilly
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North of Superior Climbing Company ICE CLIMBING GUIDING AND INSTRUCTION The Source and Gateway To Superior Ice - Agawa Canyon, Lil Agawa, Only 17 Wall - Cerro De Hielo, Mile 38 Road - Montreal River, Mile 92, North Slope Visit our ICESHACK located at the Batchawana Island View Resort Phone: (705) 882-1515 Highway 563, Batchawana Bay For • Accomodations • • Guidebooks and Gear • • Regional Rock and Ice Beta • • Snowmachine Shuttles to All Areas • www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com info@northofsuperiorclimbing.com Phone: (705) 946-6054
Littlbug Stoves choose to use renewable fuels
Littlbug Stoves burn wood or alcohol and aare recommended in recommended Expedition Canoeing by Cliff Jacobson Available in Junior and Senior models at:
www.littlbug.com manufactured by
Your purchase provides jobs for individuals with disabilities. www.odcmn.com
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E SIMPLE C A E MBR SURES PLEA
adventuretravel
Yurt to Yurt Skiing
Captain Canada and sidekick take the plunge in last year’s Polar Bear Swim photo courtesy of Thomas Stephenson - www.saultevents.com
Bon Soo Winter Carnival February 1-10, 2008 In 1962, a businessman in Sault Ste. Marie thought that the city needed a festival to break the monotony of the long winter. He approached the Chamber of Commerce with his idea, formed a committee and the first carnival was held in 1964. The Bon Soo Winter Carnival has grown considerably since its inaugural year and is now rated as one of the best festivals in Ontario. There are over 100 indoor and outdoor activities for all ages (check the website, there is something for everyone). Over a ten day period, the Carnival offers enter-
tainment, dancing, dinners and activities such as family skating, cross country skiing, dog sled rides and a snowboard park. Enter your dog in the dog pull contest or try to paddle a canoe on the snow (wouldn’t a kayak be easier?). The grand finale features the hearty Polar Bear Swim, a winter tradition that draws over 200 brave participants each year. The City of Sault Ste. Marie transforms into a winter playground constructed of snow and ice, visit Sault Ste. Marie to celebrate 45 years of winter carnival fun at Bon Soo 2008. For more info: www.bonsoo. on.ca, (866) 899-1607
If you’ve never seen or stayed in a yurt, consider planning a trip to Quetico Provincial Park or the Banadad Ski Trail. Yurts are common to many central Asian cultures, particularly to Mongolia’s nomadic herders. Traditional yurts are easily assembled and disassembled, but the North American incarnation is often more permanent and uses different building materials. In Quetico Provincial Park, yurts are available for rent and can accommodate 4-6 people. They are easily accessed by road and are located on 25 km of groomed cross country ski trails with access to another 40 km of backcountry trails. Further in the park’s interior, canvas tents on wooden platforms are available. They are outfitted with stoves and cots and can be rented in conjunction with the yurts for a longer trip. Not far from Quetico, within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, is the Banadad Ski Trail. Skiers can stay overnight in yurts, cabins, or bed and breakfast guesthouse. While skiing the Banadad, skiers can have their gear and food transported, and cars shuttled to the end of the trail. The yurts are fully equipped, and the Tall Pines yurt has a wood-fired sauna. For more info: www.ontarioparks.com, (807) 597-2735; www.boundarycountry. com, (800) 322-8327
The Snow Train Algoma Central Railway View the Algoma region in its winter splendor by taking a ride on the Algoma Central Railway’s Snow Train. The train departs from Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario and heads north to the Algoma Highlands and the scenic Agawa Canyon. As the train winds its way northward, a rugged winter wonderland will unfold before you. The train provides access to several remote lodges that are open year-round and offer cross country skiing and snowshoeing, not to mention landscapes to inspire artists and photographers. If you are interested in ice climbing in the Agawa Canyon, the area has over 60 climbs, the highest being 240 metres. Many of the climbs are alpine in nature, reminiscent of Colorado-style ice climbs. Pick up a copy of the Agawa Canyon Route Map (1999), or plan a trip around the 10th Annual Agawa Canyon Ice-Fest, March 10-14, 2008. For more info: www.agawacanyontour.com, (800) 242-9287 Superior Outdoors
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Beaten Path Nordic Trails
every issue
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January 12th -The Sawmill Lake Classic A traditional ski adventure over the trails of Quetico Provincial Park, 24 km. Tour with optional group dinner-$20. All proceeds to Friends of Quetico Park Contact: Chris @ 807-597-4503 or cstromberg@shaw.ca
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February 16th - The Chocolate Cup Challenge A fun family race around Valentine始s Day. Lots of categories, loads of chocolate and prizes. 1.5km, 3.5km,4.5km, and 10km. All ages welcome. Contact: Janice @ 807-597-1561 or jmatichuk@hotmail.com
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March 15th - The Cross Quetico Lakes Tour Return to the roots of cross country skiing. 2008 marks the 6th annual tour across the enchanting lakes and portages of Quetico Park. 35km or 45km. All day adventure includes breakfast, shuttling, supper and slide shows - $40. Contact: Chris @ 807-597-4503 or cstromberg@shaw.ca 06_3.pdf 10/7/07 7:10:42 PM
adventuretravel Me? A Climber? Alex Lowe, one of the icons of climbing, said the best climber in the world is the one having the most fun. For many not especially fond of ladders, it may be hard to imagine how climbing anything could be fun, let alone climbing...ice! That’s got to be dangerous, right? Yes, but it doesn’t always have to be. Just like skiing, ice fishing, or driving a car, there is always an element of risk. For any of these activities, you can apply the lemon test. Ask yourself four questions: am I in the right place, at the right time, with the right gear and the right people? The more times you answer “no,” the more lemons you’ll have to juggle to avoid having a bad day, if you’re lucky. If you are unlucky, especially in the sport of rock and ice climbing where mistakes can be more than an inconvenience, four lemons probably means you’ll get your name in the paper. Does this mean there is no room for climbing in your life? Not at all. It’s just a matter of learning slowly, in the right place and time, with the right gear and people. Avoid the lemons. The Alpine Club of Canada has nineteen chapters across the country, including one of the most active in Thunder Bay, and is Canada’s national organization of mountaineering. If you think of mountaineering as the requisite skill set for moving over steep terrain while minimizing risk (it can’t be eliminated), a whole new world of possibilities starts to open up and you can decide how far you want to go. The Thunder Bay area has practically every type of terrain, except glaciers and crevasses. A beginning climber needs to start building a solid skill set in order to accomplish ambitious projects in the future. Consider taking your hiking skills from flat to steeper ground. Steep terrain may lead to “scrambles” over rock, then to technical scrambles over even steeper terrain (aka mountains). This may require a rope and knowing how to use it properly, especially for getting back down. Remember the lemon test! The rope skills you’ve developed may lead you into technical rock climbing or any of its branches - aid, sport or traditional climbing, or even roped access and rescue work. If you get the climbing bug, you won’t
Frank Pianka
Randy Hyvarinen “seconds” up Powerline Falls
want to stop when the weather turns cold. You’ll want to learn how to travel over steep terrain that is now icy using these wonderful things called crampons on your feet, and ice tools in your hands. The beauty of moving smoothly and competently over ice in magical surroundings, with people that have become more than friends will become a part of who you are. You may even feel you are the best climber in the world, because you are having the most
fun. For more information on climbing in the Thunder Bay area and how to get started, visit the local chapter of the ACC at www. acctbay.ca or call (807)577-7950. Frank Pianka is a recently retired teacher and the section representative, events coordinator and treasurer of the Thunder Bay chapter of the Alpine Club of Canada. Superior Outdoors
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The Township of Terrace Bay 1 Selkirk Drive, Terrace Bay, ON P0T 2W0 Toll Free: 1-800-968-8616 Tel:(807) 825-3315 Fax:(807) 825-9576 www.terrace-bay.com tourism@terrace-bay.com
Your winter wonderland headquarters Clothing Footwear Gear Gifts 516 E. Victoria Ave Thunder Bay 1-800-737-0750 1-807-474-4220 www.takeahike.ca 18
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routes John Hawkins
Michael O’Connor
The World of Snowshoe Racing One lazy morning in January, I was sitting in the comfort in my living room, sipping coffee and reading a magazine, when an ad for a snowshoe race captured my attention. I decided to give it a try and entered my first race. A month later, with four pounds of aluminum and vinyl strapped to the bottom of my runners, I find myself with 30 other snowshoe racers in the first annual Grand Marais 5 and 10 km snowshoe race. It’s funny what one thinks going anaerobic: “What in the world made you think this would be enjoyable? Remember what you are feeling now and file it away for the next time you let yourself be lured by a pretty little ad”. Twenty five minutes later, and what seemed like 25 hills later, I cross the line carrying the fridge that I somehow acquired at the four kilometre mark. My legs are rubber. My lungs ache and my neck is sore from looking over my shoulder at the runners slowly catching me. I say to myself, “What a blast! I wonder where the next race is?” Such was my introduction to the world of snowshoe racing. Snowshoe racing is the yeti cousin to trail running. Like running, you strap something to your feet and go. No waxing, no groomed trails, just you and the powder. Almost all snowshoe manufacturers make a racing model, that they provide to top runners who travel the snowshoe racing circuit, eventually earning a coveted spot on the National Snowshoe team. As I found out, these athletes are very fit and can run a 10 km snowshoe race in 35 minutes. The second place finisher at the US Nationals last year is a 2:14 marathoner! Second place! I let him pass me. -Michael O’Connor is an avid runner and snowshoe racer; he is also a professional artist.
For kiters, a happy day is a windy day
Go Fly a Kite! When my son tells his classmates that his daddy’s kite is as wide as the classroom, he is not exaggerating. My kite is 17 square metres and I fly it while skiing, usually on a frozen lake. I am referring to the sport of traction kiting, otherwise known as kiteboarding or kitesurfing. Although relatively new to the north shore, traction kiting is well established in other parts of North America and is the one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Snow, ice, land, and water are the most common media for the sport; while skis, snowboards, wakeboards or land buggy’s provide the connection between the media and the kite. It’s not clear who first pioneered the sport of traction kiting. The Chinese were the first to use kites for propulsion in the 13th century. The invention of spectra and nylon allowed for the production of kites that were more controllable and aerodynamic. Throughout the 80s there were several reported accounts of using delta kites to propel adventurous people on water, land and snow. Today’s kites come in
different sizes to accommodate various wind speeds as well as the weight and skill of the rider. Inflatable kites are popular on water because they float for easy re-launch, and foil kites are mainly used for land and snow. Four line kites, using a control bar held by the rider, are the norm. Control bars are hooked onto a waist or seat harness to take the pressure off the arms. Recent developments in safety release systems and large depowering capabilities of the kites have made the sport much safer, however poor judgment can still get you in trouble. Before you decide to enter in the sport, be warned - it can be extremely addictive. Imagine the feeling of waterskiing while simultaneously controlling the speed and direction of the boat. The power of the kite and the ability to generate almost infinite speed without the use of a motor, create a sensation that kiters crave. For kiters, a happy day is a windy day. My son might be the first kid in his school to have a kiting birthday party; I can already imagine the calls from concerned parents. -Darren McChristie Superior Outdoors
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Atikokan-Quetico: Your wilderness playground two hours west of Thunder Bay For cross-country ski trail information, see http://atikokancanoe.tripod.com/beatenpath/ For all-season information, see www.atikokan.ca
For those who want the best... Naturally. 20
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WILDERNESS
routes Chris Stromberg
Cross Quetico Lakes Ski Tour by Chris Stromberg
The Cross Quetico Lakes Ski Tour takes adventurous skiers over the wilderness lakes and portages of Quetico Provincial Park
Quetico Provincial Park is renowned amongst canoeists for its network of lakes and waterways, undeveloped landscape and non-motorized travel. In the winter, Quetico becomes very quiet with only the occasional ice fishermen, snowshoer, or skier, and the signs of humans are far outnumbered by those of other animals. The north boundary of Quetico, near the town of Atikokan, is home to the Beaten Path Nordic Trail Club - a small but enthusiastic group of skiers that hosts a series of fun and unique annual events, including the Cross Quetico Lakes Tour. For the members of the Beaten Path, winter in the Quetico/ Superior area is not a sedate time of year. When the ground is covered with snow, and the lakes and creeks have frozen, canoe country is decorated with the tracks of avid skiers. The club grooms and maintains over 35 km of skate and classic trails only five minutes from Atikokan, and another 35 km of wilderness trails within Quetico’s Dawson Campgrounds. The club is very proud of their diverse trail system but much of the members’ enthusiasm for skiing can be found beyond the trails into the interior of Quetico and the surrounding wilderness. Club members take full advantage of the area they feel blessed with and invite others to experience their trails and surrounding backcountry. This March marks the seventh anniversary of the Cross Quetico Lakes Tour. The club is encouraging adventurous
skiers to join in this memorable tour over the wilderness lakes and portages of Quetico. The Tour is not a race so numbered bibs or stop watches are not required. There are no piston bullies out grooming the trails and spectators are few and far between. It is a tour in the traditional sense that takes skiers back to the roots of cross country skiing. Participants can ski, skijor or mush a choice of three routes with distances of 35, 45, or 55 km. The Tour is an all-day adventure that uses the Dawson Campgrounds as the trailhead and rendezvous area. Robin Reilly, the Superintendent of Quetico, encourages people to enjoy the park in all seasons, “A wilderness park might seem too challenging for many but this social event has allowed many skiers to experience the winter in a fresh new way”. The only requirements for participants are the ability to ski a long distance at a comfortable pace, and be prepared to be exhausted yet exuberant. Requirements for dogs are that they must be well behaved among people and other dogs. Quetico is an enchanting place in the winter and the Cross Quetico Lakes Tour is an exceptional way to see a different face of canoe country. For more information on The Beaten Path’s events visit www. atikokancanoe.tripod.com/beatenpath, or contact Chris Stromberg, (807)597-4503, cstromberg@shaw.ca. Superior Outdoors
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artsandliterature
‘LL Smith Jr. in Grand Marais Harbor’ oil on linen, 12” x 20”, private collection
Artist Profile: Neil Sherman As a child in Rochester, Minnesota, Neil Sherman did not dream of becoming an artist – he was more preoccupied with soccer and basketball. But he always enjoyed art and his hidden talent began to emerge during high school. Neil studied art at St. John’s University and then spent seven years with Joseph Paquet, a landscape painter from St. Paul. It was Paquet that helped Neil to develop his style of pleine aire painting, an art form that has led him to paint outdoor scenes in all four seasons. Neil moved to Grand Marais to work for the Sivertson Gallery and recently made a permanent investment in his artist lifestyle, he purchased a house (rustic...running water is not a priority). This seems consistent with his purist approach to painting. He prefers to paint scenery while observing it in the outdoors. When inclement weather or otherwise challenging circumstances make this impossible, Neil makes small sketches of the scene and paints a larger version in his studio. During his time with Joe Paquet, he learned to identify the significant characteristics of a landscape, the very features that motivate him to permanently capture a scene. Neil has also become proficient in tying down his easel with rope and tent stakes to ensure that his paintings do not get hijacked by the north shore winds. Such techniques are not part of the art classes he teaches at the Grand Marais Art Colony; he focuses on how to start a painting by simplifying the landscape. Neil takes full advantage of life on the north shore. He enjoys 22
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Sherman prefers painting in the outdoors. En plein air is a French expression which means “in the open air”, and is often used to describe the act of painting outside.
mountain biking, hiking on the Superior Hiking Trail, canoeing and sea kayaking. He has painted landscapes on both sides of the border and is confident that he has found everlasting inspiration in this region he now calls home. Neil Sherman has a studio in Grand Marais and his art is available at the Sivertson Gallery in Grand Marais and Duluth, as well as the Vern Carver and Beard Art Galleries in Minneapolis. For more information visit: www.sivertson.com, and www. verncarverbeard.com -Michelle McChristie
artsandliterature
Life in Thundering Bay: Voices from Thunder Bay’s Past (softcover)
Edited by Tania L. Saj and Elle Andra-Warner A remarkable collection of stories that brings to life the early days of Fort William and Port Arthur, Ontario. Amazingly, many of these stories have been lost, or at least very difficult to find, for 100 years, and this is the first time they have been brought together in a book. These stories remind us that life on the North Shore of Lake Superior has always been a gamble and an adventure, which makes for great reading.
Handcrafted & Famous Buttertarts & Scones Healthy Choice Menu Gourmet Soups Gluten Free Menu Catering
Canoe Atlas of the Little North (hardcover)
by Jonathan Berger and Thomas Terry This remarkable atlas, in an oversize format, is a landmark publication the result of five decades of travel, research and documentation. Its first section provides an overview of the region’s geography, the nature of its canoe routes, and the influence of natural and cultural history on those routes. Its second, larger section features annotated versions of 50 topographic maps derived from the well-known Canadian National Topographic System and constructed in digital form by the Geographic Information Science Center at the University of California, Berkeley. Annotations include points of interest, portages, rapids and difficult passages.
Metropolitan Moose Beanery & Cafe Kakabeka Fall, Ontario 807-473-5453 gotmoose@tbaytel.net
Ski the Gunflint Trailʼs Banadad
Wilderness Ontario
(Hardcover) by Gary & Joanie McGuffin The McGuffins’ Ontario is full of favorite places: rock promontory campsites where the swimming is perfect, lakes where loons and eagles nest, cliffs where peregrine falcons soar, ancient forests where only the sounds of nature are heard. Here, one can paddle whitewater rivers, sea kayak to distant granite islands, hike mountainous trails, and snowshoe the fresh forest trails left by foraging moose and wolves. The diverse, wild beauty of Ontario is celebrated in this breathtaking collection of images taken during two decades of travel to every corner of the province.
Yurt to Yurt Skiing
Lodge to Lodge Skiing
Ski-In B&B and Cabins
Boundary Country Trekking Grand Marais, Minnesota www.boundarycountry.com 218-388-4487 Superior Outdoors
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One World Expedition - Lonnie Dupre
Polar Ambitions
by JOHN-PAUL MARION
T
he North Pole, Mount Everest, and the South Pole in 365 days? This epic feat is what Grand Marais resident Eric Larsen is planning for 2009 on his crusade to raise awareness about our troubling issue of global warming. Having been to the North Pole with exploration partner Lonnie Dupre during the summer of 2006, Eric has witnessed first-hand the reality of the polar meltdown.
Growing up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Eric had the good fortune frequent the BWCA (boundary waters canoe area) in northern Minnesota. This experience in the wilderness eventually led him to dive into north shore (or north coast) living. After an environmental studies college program, Eric came to Grand Marais in 1994, and began working with local dog mushing legend Arleigh Jorgenson. From helping tend to the dogs (including shoveling poo), and guiding trips, to running the John
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One World Expedition - Lonnie Dupre
“...the landscape is your medium, you express yourself by making your way through it.” Beargrease sled dog race, he became fixated on the adventurous lifestyle unique to the terrain and climate of the north shore of Lake Superior. Eventually, dog sledding brought Eric to the northern reaches of Ontario to guide trips and undertake a massive 600 mile journey through the northern boreal forest. Then, in the late nineties, Eric met polar explorer Lonnie Dupre, also a Grand Marais resident. By 2002, they were planning a journey to the North Pole that became known as the One World Expedition. The pair’s first attempt to reach the pole from Russia was unsuccessful due to south drifting ice. In May of 2006,
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they departed from Ellesmere Island for a second attempt. Six hundred miles of paddling and pulling their canoes, and 62 wind weary whiteout days later, they reached their destination. Eric and Lonnie became the first ever explorers to reach the North Pole unassisted during the summer. Unlike the nuclear powered ships that bring people to the pole each summer, Eric and Lonnie had specially designed canoes to both haul their gear, and paddle themselves across the expanding open water in the Arctic Ocean. It was during this trip that the reality of global warming and the resulting polar meltdown became undeniably evi-
dent to Eric. “We saw a polar bear at the north pole, in June, 500 miles from land”. There were other bear encounters as well, “we had a polar bear pawing at the vestibule of our tent”, and, on another occasion, Eric said that “it was a bit unnerving watching a bear crawling up to us pushing snow on his snout to hide his black nose.” The pair did have a gun for protection; however, they were relieved they did not have to use it. What may be seen as a potential boon by shipping magnates and competing nations, could also represent a distant early warning for the future of sustainable life as we know it. The opening of the elusive Northwest Passage is only
Les Stone - Greenpeace
Eric Larson Collection
Les Stone - Greenpeace
Eric and Lonnie encountered some large pressure ridges en route to the north pole
Eric Larson Collection
A short stretch of smooth skiing
The 2004 John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon
the beginning of the demise of the polar cap known as the North Pole. Eric says that by 2100, the North Pole could be ice-free in the summer, according to computer models. While on his “canoe trip” to the pole, he began to wonder if the models might actually be underestimating the pace of global warming. Eric Larsen’s next great adventure will be with a new team and on an unimaginably difficult scale. The “Save the Poles” expedition, slated for 2009, will be an effort to reach the North and South Poles as well as Mount Everest, the “roof of the world”, all within 365 days. This exploit has never been accomplished in such a short amount of time.
Only fourteen people have completed this career hat trick, while Eric hopes to be the first American to succeed. It will require a winter trek to the North Pole and a spring attempt on Everest, with the South Pole completing the trilogy. The “three poles” being the coldest regions on earth, reveal the increase in the earth’s temperature in astounding ways. Eric hopes that the 2009 expedition will do even more to promote the awareness and reduction of humanity’s carbon footprint, and to help save polar bears through protecting their natural habitat from further decline. No stranger to media attention, Eric and Lonnie Dupre appeared on the Tonight Show with Jay
Typical dress for northern Minnesota
Leno, both before and after their One World Expedition. It is likely that his global warming “tri-polar” expedition will garner even more serious attention. Even with sponsors such as Sierra Designs, there are enormous financial obstacles to weave through on the way to this monumental task. Eric is raising funds through lecturing in schools and universities, while also working in Grand Marais when he is home. The search for sponsorship is an ongoing task in pursuit of such grand adventures. Being a north shore resident doesn’t expose one to 28,000 foot mountains, but this is not daunting to Eric. “Yeah, the climbing is my weak point, but I
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will be completing some mountaineering training in California and I might be going to Denali in 2008”. Denali, otherwise known as Mt. McKinley, is one of the most difficult mountains to summit, mostly due to extremely hostile conditions. This climb, as part of a training regime, represents Eric’s commitment to inform us all of our melting ways. Eric Larsen is a very down to earth individual despite his high-reaching goals and visions. He loves life in Grand Marais, which happens to offer what he calls “a perfect training ground for arctic adventures - with the pressure ridges on Lake Superior, frozen waterfalls to pull canoes up on local rivers, and trails in the Sawtooth range to drag tires in the summer”. Beyond this, Eric has an admirable and undeniable passion for the planet, which motivates him to explore the far-reaching beauty of wilderness as
Will Steger Ely, MN www.willsteger.com www.globalwarming101.com
Steger has been an eyewitness to the ongoing catastrophic consequences of global warming. A formidable voice calling for understanding and the preservation of the Arctic, and the Earth, Will Steger is best known for his legendary polar explorations. He has traveled tens of thousands of miles by kayak and dog sled over 40 years - leading teams on some of the most significant polar expeditions in history.
Lonnie Dupre Grand Marais,MN
One World Expedition - Lonnie Dupre
www.lonniedupre.com
During an arctic career spanning 20 years, Lonnie Dupre has traveled over 14,000 miles throughout the high arctic and polar regions by dog team, ski and kayak. His path has often followed in the footsteps of the Arctic explorers of the last century - Robert E. Peary, Roald Amundsen and Knud Rasmussen. Like them, Lonnie has lived and traveled with the Polar Inuit, learning from these hardy people and developing a deep appreciation for their culture and way of life.
an outdoor adventurer. When asked if today’s explorers are simply serving ego, under the veil of a nobler purpose, Eric grins widely and says “I know what you mean ...but I see it as being like an artist; and the landscape is your medium, you express yourself by making your way through it.” True to form, this artist follows his inspiration, and inspires the rest of us in the process. For more info visit www.savethepoles.com. John-Paul Marion is a freelance writer and photographer living in Lappe, Ontario. He is currently packing his backs to prepare for the 2010 Winter Olympics as the Head of Landing Hill for the ski jumping facilities.
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Prominent Polar Explorers who also call the north shore home
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Hugh Dale-Harris Nolalu, ON www.hughdaleharris.ca
Hugh has completed two extended dog sledding expeditions in the Canadian arctic. The first took place in 2004; it lasted over five months, covered 3,000 km, recorded the Inuit elders’ perspective on climate change, and delivered an online K-12 education program to approximately 3 million students. The second took place in 2005 when Hugh joined the Barclay’s Capital Ultimate North Team, with the goal to help prove that Robert Peary and his party were the first to the Pole in 1909. The team added to the stack of evidence by arriving at the North Pole by dog team on April 26, 2005, within 3 hours of Peary’s time.
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portraits by Gregg Johns
Wild
GVORA by Tiffany Jarva
Portrait of a nature photographer
T
om Gvora is in his camouflaged sweat suit. On his head, pulled down to meet his dark sunglasses, is a Tilley-esque hat, a red bandana wrapped around it and two grey owl feathers poking straight up. It’s a late-August morning. Clouds are shadowing Lake Superior. Gvora sits on the rocks at Chippewa Park in Thunder Bay, immersed in sharing one of his many wildlife encounters, when suddenly he holds his hands out in front of him, an invisible camera in his clutches. He starts to make clicking sounds, re-enacting a scene where he tries to capture that pivotal, magical, quick-as-lightning wildlife moment. This time it’s a mama long-eared owl spreading her wings over her owlets. “Holy smokes! I couldn’t believe it,” recounts Gvora. The result: a photograph composed more like a painting, a fine piece of art selected for a European tour and subsequently featured in the book Slovaks in Canada: Through Their Own Eyes. “I’m always taking dictation from the wildlife. Many times you only have seconds to take the photograph. You have to work fast and think fast.” After a morning walk around Chippewa, Thunder Bay-based nature photographer Tom Gvora now sits in my kitchen. His watery-blue eyes wide, as he punctuates stories with his signature saying “holy smokes”. His hands are whirling as he describes how he came to a life of studying, documenting and photographing animal behaviour in this region. He begins his story by stating, “I am a ramblin’ man. I like traveling on the animal trails that people don’t go on. I like absolute quiet.”
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Tom Gvora
(above) Grey Owl, (below) Long Eared Owlet
The Photographic Journey
A native of the east end in Thunder Bay, Gvora attended the Ontario College of Art and Design in the 70s. He initially studied illustration, graphic design and fine arts. “I learned about composition and light, which has obviously had an impact on my photography.” Although professionally-trained in the fine arts, Gvora describes himself as a self-taught photographer, who “slowly started to blossom” in 1988. “I learned by being out there and by doing.” Inspired by 1930s naturalist Grey Owl’s book The Pilgrims of the Wild, Gvora was drawn to “spending more and more time outdoors, and taking my camera out.” In 2003, Gvora traveled to Grey Owl’s cabin on Kingsmere Lake in Saskatchewan. “It’s hard to find the words to describe, but when I got there I thought, ‘Oh my God, I have arrived.’ The water is absolutely clear, so clear that you can see 15 to 20 perch swimming in the water at a time. I spent seven days there, absolutely alone, not one human being except for one night when two couples set up camp. Other than that night I was alone. Talk about getting in touch with yourself.”
The Waiting Game
“I like wandering around by myself and going to the same place over and over again. I enjoy watching animals, their gestures and the expressions on their faces.” 32
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Tom Gvora
“The grey owl is my muse. It has taught me keen hearing, patience and an appreciation for silence.”
Tom Gvora
(above and below) Red Fox
Tom Gvora
“ I enjoy watching animals - their gestures and the expressions on their faces.”
The Agawa Rock pictographs
Gvora emphasizes that, in addition to being quick in order to capture the authentic moment and right light, you also have to plan, prepare and invest much time getting to know your subject and surroundings. This sometimes means camping out for weeks in remote locations, constantly studying your subject, lying in the mud, waiting in the rain, braving the heat or subzero temperatures. All of this is endured in order to get the authentic shot - be it of a Canadian goose using her beak
to cover her eggs with down or a close-up of the hairs on the back of a honeybee. “I don’t care if it’s -50 degrees Celsius. If I’m working on a story, I’m there first thing in the morning with my camera tucked inside my jacket. My mom once said to my dad as I was heading out on my bike during a snow storm, ‘He won’t listen. He’s crazy. He has to go on that stupid mountain bike into the woods when it’s freezing.’ I think my parents thought of me as an enigma; a kind of puzzle.” Gvora mentions that while growing up neither of his parents were interested in nature, “But what they did do, and it was probably the best thing, they let me be. They let me do my own thing.” Both parents, now deceased, were born in Thunder Bay, so there is family history connected to this region, and Gvora insists he has no desire to live anywhere else. Throughout the years, his photographs have captured the varied wildlife along the shores of Lake Superior and much of northwestern Ontario.
Gvora’s Muse
“The grey owl is my muse. It has taught me keen hearing, patience and an appreciation for silence.” Gvora has done many studies on a range of owl species. Once, he spent five months compiling photos and notes on the long-eared owl. “One morning, around 5:45 a.m., I was deep in the bush and I came Superior Outdoors
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Tom Gvora
The Leopard Frog
Tom Gvora
upon an owl and a nest of baby owls. I saw two dead shrews, one with an amputated head close by. I took my camera out and shot a dozen originals of the nest. Another day there were five nicely spaced dead voles, ready to feed to her young,” continues Gvora, “I watched mama owl turn around and feed the voles to her small owlets, covered with mosquitoes.” All in all, Gvora took almost 600 shots of the nest, from eggs until the babies left. He recounts how, one day during this study, “I A Young Painted Turtle could hear something scratching behind me. It was a bear about 500 metres away. I went back the next day and there was a fallen tree trunk that the bear had clawed. I freaked out thinking about the owlets. I was so relieved when I learned they were okay.” For Gvora, it’s not just about taking a pretty photo. He insists it is a deeper connection. “I am drawn by something to be out there in nature. For me, it’s taking in the whole ex34
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perience.” For instance, while walking in the woods early one morning, he thought he heard baby wolf pups howling. He decided to investigate. Within three to five kilometres, he came across some tall grass when, “HOLY SMOKES! A head pops up and it’s a wolf. I took out my camera, but when he saw it, the wolf ran. It was too late.” Regardless of whether or not the picture was taken, Gvora values this moment with the wolf. It’s a connection made. “I like to think I belong to the animals,” says Gvora. “That’s what it’s all about. It’s those little moments, those unexpected moments. I would prefer to walk in absolute quiet so that I can get as close as I can; so that I can feel the animal breathe on me. ” “Tom is wild; he’s feral,” says Daphne Bishop, a school librarian who comments on how mesmerizing Gvora is when he’s with a group of students. “Tom has a powerful voice but when he’s with the little ones, his voice gets softer and softer and you can see them creeping closer and closer to him as he tells his stories.” Once, during a lesson on owls, she overheard a student ask: “Does the owl talk to you Mr. Gvora?”
On Teaching
Gvora is an occasional teacher, who has no desire to have a classroom of his own, and everyone knows it. “Tom is a wonderful man,” says principal Celeste King. “I’ve known him for many, many years and he has never been interested in longterm teaching positions. He is a supply teacher so that he can do his photography, so that he can do what he is passionate about.” Last year, Gvora reached over 400 elementary stu-
imagetech.pdf
Gregg Johns
dents through his nature presentations in the Thunder Bay area. Clad in his camouflaged attire, complete with grey owl feathers, he begins his presentation standing absolutely still and quiet. Once the students are settled and all eyes are on him, he announces: “Boys and girls I bring you silence from nature.” He holds an owl feather up in the air. It is reminiscent of Grey Owl, in full native dress, when he would begin most of his popular lectures in England by stating: “You are tired with years of civilization. I come to offer you - what? A single green leaf.” Gvora’s presentation to students consists of 60 to 70 slides of his original photography, and his overall goal is to demonstrate how we are all connected to the natural world. He recounts how, during a presentation, a student adamantly said she did not want to be connected to nature. “And so this is what I told her: ‘You are connected to nature
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Tom is who he is; there are no pretenses
whether you want to be or not. You’re connected to the water you drink, the food you eat, the floor you stand on, the water to wash your hands, the fuel that goes into the car or the bus that brings you to school. We are all connected.’” Gvora continues to add, “I want to be the voice for nature. I want the students to feel the connection.” Gvora’s eyes shimmer under the shadow of his hat, the grey owl feathers sure symbols of his dedication to the cause. Principal King’s voice resonates: “Tom is who he is. There are no pretenses. He’s very, authentic.” Tiffany Jarva is a teacher and a freelance writer living in Thunder Bay. In her spare time she enjoys bombing downhill on her mountain bike.
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GIANT REALIZATION An ice skating trek to one of the true wonders of Canada words and photos by Andrew Haill
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Obsession? ...perhaps. Crazy? ...possibly. Fascination? ...definitely. Why else would one be out on Lake Superior in winter, and a very long way from shore?
T
here is something intriguing about a winter crossing of water that has been sailed, paddled, or shoreline hiked in warmer months. With its colours, fracture patterns, trapped air bubbles and wave fashioned shoreline formations, ice on Lake Superior has almost infinite variety that invites inspection. The 2007 winter was exceptional - minimal snowfall and weeks of very cold temperatures formed extensive ice across the more protected sections near Thunder Bay. What was amazing was the amount of thick, smooth ice. It simply demanded the application of skates and seeded an idea to skate the 18 kilometres across the bay to the Sibley Peninsula and the cliffs of the Sleeping Giant. Most winters don’t allow the consideration of such a journey because open water, snow cover, and rough or variable ice conditions make for unsafe conditions. Adopting the ‘just do it’ approach did not seem wise, so more modest skate outings along the shoreline near the city, along the coast of Mink Bay, and a longer exploration in Black Bay east of the Sibley Peninsula served as preparation. These trips gradually built experience with the ice, toughened legs, and extended the willingness of feet to be in skates for the better part of a day. Eventually, all that was left was the siren call of the Giant. Superior Outdoors
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Skating the ice slabs in the rough ice zone – 1st crossing attempt
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y skating companion for all of this was Paul Berger who, with an interest in both horizontal and vertical ice, is often the instigator or willing accomplice for a variety of adventures. It was a natural starting point to leave from his house down the coast near Mary Island. We had a great
The Giant’s head, adams apple, and chest in winter
mid-February day, sunny, pleasant temperatures, and with 18 inches of smooth ice, we had every confidence we’d make it. A rather blurry satellite photo suggested a long and widening zone of rough ice that extended all the way across to the head of the Giant and partially along it. We hoped better ice might lie to the south. 38
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The skating was initially superb - clear and smooth black ice that was very fast and extremely enjoyable. Skating at its best. Beyond the half way point, we encountered the edge of the rough ice zone and the fun diminished. It seemed this zone extended far towards the southwest and that going further around might not be the solution as originally thought. We entered the rough ice and aimed directly towards the Giant. The surface was a three inch thick sheet of ice that had broken up, refrozen and subsequently thickened into a substantial ice layer. The variously sized slabs were at slightly different heights and angles. We could almost skate - transitioning between slabs in an interrupted manner, but there was a constant risk of tripping and falling. The ice was beautiful, with colours of reflected sky, musical sounds when slabs were hit, and the occasional sculpted shape that made one marvel at what wind, snow, and sun could do to ice. There were, however, many places where progress through shattered ice was slowed to a crawl and it became a struggle to reach the next barely skate worthy section. Slowly getting closer was the Giant, its rocky cliffs and winter snow cover becoming increasingly detailed and drawing us onwards. But time was slipping away and, after almost six kilometres of suffering, it was well past time for lunch. We placed a number of ice slabs on edge as a windbreak and thus sheltered, ate lunch and discussed. It was mid-afternoon, and with a lot of rough ice both ahead and awaiting the return, going further was not really an option. We had fallen 2.5 kilometres short of reaching the Giant. A few days later it snowed and that was that. That weekend involved a hike into the Giant and a winter
The Sleeping Giant across perfect ice on Thunder Bay - 1st crossing attempt
climb up onto the Chest. It was interesting to see the layout of the rough ice zone and our route into it. The wind had now blown the snow around to expose patches of ice, and adjacent to the Giant the majority of the snow was gone. It was also clearly possible to go south around the rough ice. What had looked like an endless expanse when standing on the surface was really just a kilometre wide bulge. Alas, substantial snow was predicted for midweek, was it worth arranging a day off work for another attempt? It was a grey and overcast Tuesday morning. From the start, progress was made difficult by the snow, there was often more of it to cross than ice to skate, and the cleared ice always seemed to go in the wrong direction. Having ski poles was essential, and again we wore helmets and kneepads in case of a spill. Although falling in was unlikely given the substantial ice thickness, Lake Superior ice is unpredictable and there are often fracture zones, stress cracks, and even areas of open water. We each brought ice picks, throw rope, a dry bag with a complete change of clothes and footwear, and we approached any change in ice conditions with caution. At about the three quarters point, a long ice fracture marked a significant change in surface conditions and now the snow was mostly gone. It was fantastic to skate freely over smooth ice and easily go around snow patches instead of stumbling through them. What was a bit unnerving was skating from sections of opaque white ice onto adjacent clear black ice. Even with the knowledge that it was all very thick, the visual impression of going off the edge took some getting used to. The Giant loomed larger, filling the entire horizon in front of us. It was a perspective usually obtainable only from a boat,
but now the snow cover enhanced the rock structure and ruggedness. Despite the grey day, it was very impressive and the exhilaration with the great skating and view increased as the Giant drew closer. We followed the good ice south, past the Chest and our hiking viewpoint, and approached the Giant
The highest cliffs in Ontario
along the length of the legs. We reached shore directly below the deep notch in the cliffs that is a familiar lookout to those having climbed and crossed the Giant at the knees. It was very satisfying to finally reach the Sleeping Giant on skates and touch the cobbled shore. It was, however, past mid-afternoon, and we had considerable return effort ahead of us. Superior Outdoors
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The start of the long return
We ate a hurried lunch under the cliffs and then departed, knowing the good ice would now only get worse, and many snow plagued kilometres needed to be crossed. With the added challenge of the wind in our faces, it was going to be a long day. We made steady, albeit tiring, progress and the clouds lifted slightly as evening approached. We had a GPS to confirm our navigation and the city lights were an unmistakable guide. It eventually became dark; we wore headlamps to monitor ice and footing. We were close enough now and had skated this ice many times previously which eased our concerns about being on ice at night. It was nice to reach civilization and remove our skates. It had been a long journey of over 50 kilometres, much of that with far less than ideal conditions. We had achieved our goal of skating across the bay to the Sleeping Giant, and were lucky to have done so in advance of the snow that came over the next few days. That weekend we skied out around 40
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A chunk of sculpted ice
the head of the Giant and were somewhat astounded to observe much of the ice we crossed had broken up in the storm and been driven out into the lake. Only water and waves remained. It was a contemplative reminder of the power
of Lake Superior and the transitory nature of ice. Andrew Haill is a mechanical engineer with a passion for outdoor adventure and photography.
Ian Tamblyn
Superior: Spirit and Light THE FOUR COAST PROJECT: VOLUME 1
A Celebration of Lake Superior and Northwestern Ontario Disc 1 in a 4 disc set featuring new and re-recorded songs about the Lake Superior area of Ontario. CD includes a booklet with original sketches and song lyrics.
www.tamblyn.com
North Track Records Box 68, Stn.'B', Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1P 6C3
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reflections
C5photo.com
Twenty-five below Crooked Lake, Border Trail photo by Chris Gibbs
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reflections
The Current River Thunder Bay, ON photo by Allan Bruce
Superior Superior Outdoors Outdoors 43 43
reflections
Šwww.GaryandJoanieMcGuffin.com
Winter Camping Lake Superior backcountry photo by Gary McGuffin
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reflections
Ice Bubbles Lake Superior photo by Lori Fox Rossi
Superior Superior Outdoors Outdoors 45 45
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Jack Coulis Orient Bay photo by Nick Buda
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Frozen Droplet Lake Superior photo by Julian Holenstein
Superior Superior Outdoors Outdoors 47 47
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The Sibley Ski Tour Sleeping Giant Provincial Park Photo by Jarron Childs
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reflections
Brent Linton - The Chronicle-Journal ŠGaryAndJoanieMcGuffin.com
Samantha Bisnaire Super Combined Thunder Bay Photo by Brent Linton
Superior Superior Outdoors Outdoors 49 49
Denny Warner
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the
running of the
Beargrease by Elle Andra-Warner
“Neither snow, nor rain, nor heat, nor gloom of night ...” Or so goes the motto most people associate with the U.S. Postal Service. But for pioneering postie John Beargrease, one could also add, “nor freezing temperatures, nor broken sleds, nor deadly ice-filled rivers.” John Beargrease’s incredible dogsled postal deliveries in the late 1800’s are the stuff of legends. And almost every winter since 1981, this exciting slice of “living history’‘ is reawakened in the form of the John Beargrease Dog Sled Marathon.
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This 400 mile dog sled race celebrates the life of John Beargrease, an Anishinabe best remembered for delivering winter mail by dogsled along the rugged North Shore of Lake Superior. On January 27, 2008, some of the world’s best mushers will be in Duluth for the start of the 25th running of the Beargrease, one of the longest and most challenging sled dog events in North America. ohn Beargrease was born in 1858 near Beaver Bay, Minnesota’s first settlement on Lake Superior’s North Shore. His father was Moquabimetem, an Anishinabe Chief also known as John Beargrease, and his mother, Newagagamsbag (or Otoe). The family lived in a traditional wigwam on the edge of Beaver Bay, a town founded in 1856 by the Wieland family from Germany. Albert Wieland, who started the town’s sawmill, was also the town’s postmaster, responsible for delivering mail to Grand Portage. He hired Moquabimetem to carry that mail, as well as work as a sailor on his 65-foot schooner, Charley. Later, as a teen, John Beargrease also worked on Wieland’s Lake Superior shipping boats, including the Charley. At the time, the only land trail along the North Shore was an old footpath, known as the Lake Shore Trail (though one old map shows it simply as ‘’dog trail’‘). Stretching from Duluth, Minnesota to what is now the city of Thunder Bay, Ontario, it had been used for millennia by First Nations people, and later by European fur traders and settlers. By the late 19th century, many small settlements had sprung up along the North Shore, including Two Harbors (originally Agate Bay), at one time home to the world’s largest iron ore dock. In 1879, 21-year old John Beargrease and his brothers secured the mail delivery contract between Two Harbors and Grand Marais. For the next 20 years, at least once or twice a week, one of the Beargrease brothers delivered mail and supplies along the Trail, occasionally going all the way to Grande Portage. They used a variety of transport systems, from canoes and large boats, to horses and dog sleds. But it was John Beargrease’s incredible dogsled mail runs in winter that became legendary. His fastest trip between the two North Shore communities was 28 hours. “I still see it today as a thick slice of heritage for our region,” said Jason Rice, a former Beargrease musher (2002, 2003, 2004) and now president of Beargrease’s volunteer board of directors. “Something about retracing the path of John Beargrease and his brave journeys up and down a rugged, yet beautiful landscape.... just carries my imagination off to days when life wasn’t a technical exercise. Something had to be done and someone stepped in and did it. Forget the circumstances and obstacles and reasons why it may be foolish and dangerous. For John Beargrease, the mail had to get delivered....period. He did whatever it took and earned his reputation from getting it done in all types of conditions.” His adventurous winter mail runs ended on April 26, 1899. Eleven years later, at the age of 52, John Beargrease died. The official cause of death is listed as tuberculosis. However, some say the 52-year old northern icon died of the pneumonia he developed after courageously diving into the cold waters of Lake Superior, near Grand Portage, to rescue a mail carrier.
John Beargrease (right) a family portrait (middle). The route of the Beargrease follows the North Shore trail from Duluth to Poplar Lake on the Gunflint Trail and back (below).
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The Minnesota Historical Society
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Denny Warner
(above) The Beargrease is a test of a partnership between people and dogs. (Top right) In 2005, Jennifer Freking of Minnesota, placed 2nd in the Beargrease Marathon and was awarded the Rookie of the Year. (Bottom right) Her partner Blake won the marathon in 2004.
John Beargrease left a widow Louise and their numerous children. He is buried at the Indian Cemetery in Beaver Bay. Now, almost 109 years after his last mail delivery, that spirit of frontier adventure is still alive in the running of the Beargrease. o put on a world-class event like the Beargrease takes volunteers – lots of them. For the past quarter century, a dedicated board of directors, their volunteer coordinators, and almost 1,000 volunteers have made the Beargrease happen each year. The Beargrease is considered one of the most prestigious, highly competitive sled dog races in the United States, attracting both mushers and spectators from around the world. Duluth is the starting point for both the Beargrease marathon and the mid-distance race. The trail goes north to the Superior National Forest and Sawtooth Mountains, to the Trail Centre (Poplar Lake) on the Gunflint Trail. At that point, Marathon teams turn around for the return leg to Duluth. The 150 mile mid-distance race ends in Tofte. “The Sawtooth Mountains along the North Shore are just brutal’‘ said Rice about the rapid series of ascents and descents facing mushers and their dogs. “Imagine jogging up a ski hill, then sliding down the other side, trying to catch your breath on that downhill....then running up the ski hill again in winter clothing and boots. And repeat that process until your legs become numb with exhaustion. Then do it again. That’s the unrelenting terrain of Northern Minnesota.” The Beargrease, like other sled dog marathons, is a test of a partnership between people and dogs, but it takes that rela-
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tionship to a different level, one where reliance can mean survival or disaster. “There’s an air of danger and adventure and the unknown that lurks in the forest. Throw that mystique in with a dose of good ‘ol fashioned competition and you’ve got a recipe for something that intrigues...something that percolates some inner desire for an adventure,” explained Rice. As one of North America’s toughest dog sled marathons, Beargrease also serves as a prequalifier for Alaska’s famous 1150-mile long Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race, billed the “Last Great Race on Earth” (Several Iditarod veterans have said the Beargrease takes a toll on them similar to the Iditarod.) ast fall when registration opened for the 30 Marathon and 50 mid-distance race spots, the spaces were quickly filled. The 2008 purse totalled $40,000, with $8,000 going to the winner. The final list of mushers reads like the who’s who of elite dog sledding, with the majority coming from Minnesota and Wisconsin. The rest of the field is filled out with mushers from Canada, Ireland, and other US states like Florida, Montana, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Oregon. Minnesota mushers include Jennifer and Blake Freking, who own and operate the Manitou Crossing Kennels in Finland and are both entered in the Beargrease Marathon. Jennifer, a veterinarian, started racing her dogs 17 years ago, but has been training and racing sled dogs since she was nine years old. In 2005, Jennifer’s puppy team placed 2nd in the Beargrease Marathon and she was awarded the Rookie of the Year. In 2006, she placed 3rd in the Beargrease Marathon. Blake Freking, born in Heron Lake (MN) worked and raced in Alaska (including the Iditarod) before returning to Minne-
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Denny Warner
As one of North America’s toughest dog sled marathons, the Beargrease also serves as a pre qualifier for Alaska’s famous 1150-mile long Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race.
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sota in 2001. Since then, Blake and the Manitou Crossing Siberians have won the 2004 Beargrease Marathon, placed 11th in the 2005 Yukon Quest 1000-mile marathon, and placed 2nd in the 2006 Beargrease Marathon (just 10 minutes ahead of Jennifer). “The Beargrease is an amazing endurance competition which brings together mushers, their teams, volunteers and spectators alike to celebrate the spirit and heritage of region,” said Jennifer. “The challenge of traveling up and down the rugged North Shore of Minnesota with 12 amazing canine athletes is an experience like no other.” Blake added, “Racing sled dogs is a year round commitment. It teaches us about strength, skill, determination, and “..a happy and healthy dog team is usually a darn fast dog team.” trust. The dogs are always happy, eager to please, and always care. With proper training, a happy and healthy dog team is your best friend. You can learn a lot from every dog.” usually a darn fast dog team.” The lone Canadian registered in the marathon is Hank The strong bond between mushers and dogs is clearly eviLutsen Resort LeBruin, from Haliburton, Ontario, who will be competing dent at events like the Beargrease, but the bond goes beyond for the first time in the Beargrease. He and wife bleed Tanya ad the(8” racing. LeBruin perhaps said it best, “Being alone in the 1/2his page x 5.125”) own and operate Winterdance Dogsled Tours, and have over quietMagazine of the wilderness with the dogs is an experience beyond Superior Outdoors 120 registered Siberian Huskies. A love of working with dogs words.” info@superioroutdoors.ca draws him to dog sledding and mushing. “Team work is esMark the running of this winter’s Beargrease on your calencontact Darren orsaid Michelle • 807.627.3017 sential and I’m as much a part of the team as any dog,” dar....and watch some North Shore history come alive. LeBruin. According to Rice, a good musher is someone who, “is a Elle Andra-Warner is the author of several highly praised books good manager of living, breathing resources. He or she knows of non-fiction, such as Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald, Robert when to push the team a little harder and also knows when Service, Hudson’s Bay Company Adventures and The Mounties. they’re in need of a break. And they’re committed to good dog She is a long-time resident of Thunder Bay.
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Downtown Volkswagen event listing Running, Hiking & Snowshoeing November 22 Gobble Gallop, Duluth, MN Celebrate this Thanksgiving running, galloping, or strolling your way along the streets of Duluth. Choose from the Gobble Gallop (5km run), Gobble Gait (2 mile walk), Tough Turkey (1 mile run), or Gobble Giddy Up (kids’ 1/4 mile fun run). Contact (218)7281148, gobblegallop@gmail.com, www. gobblegallop.com. December 1 Bridge to the Gulf III, Duluth, MN This is a 5km race that starts at Duluth’s Lakewalk and is a fundraiser for Habitat for Humanity. Contact Donna Elsbury (218)525-6081. December 1 Santa Shuffle, Thunder Bay, ON The annual Santa Shuffle Fun Run & Elf Walk is held across North America and raises funds for the Salvation Army. For run locations visit www.events. runningroom.com, for Thunder Bay contact Gail Kromm (807)344-9689, pr@salarmytbay.ca. December 2 Grand Tour, St Paul, MN This event includes a 1⁄4 Mile Youth Run, and 5K Run/Walk, the Tour is aligned with the Grand Meander weekend, which kicks off the holiday season in St. Paul, contact Chris Fuller (651)228-1986, www.tslevents.com. December 22 Winter Solstice Hike/Snowshoe, Sault Ste. Marie, ON This event is organized by the Voyageur Trail Association, the hike/snowshoe starts at Goulais Avenue and ends with a bonfire. Contact Gayle (705)9421891. December 26 Boxing Day Hike/Snowshoe, Sault Ste. Marie, ON This event is organized by the Voyageur Trail Association, avoid the crowds at the mall and meet for a hike/snowshoe. Contact Don (705)949-1097. December 31 Resolution Run & Walk, Thunder Bay, ON Start the new year off right with a 5 km run or walk amongst the Nor’wester Mountains. Registration includes post race refreshments and a jacket. Contact the Running Room, (807)344-7575, www.eventsrunningroom.com. January 1 New Year’s Day Hike/Snowshoe, Sault Ste. Marie, ON 56
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This event is organized by the Voyageur Trail Association. Contact Ila at (705)949-1097.
Mountains. Contact Ruth (807)4758346; check the website for updates in early 2008, www.nwoc.ca.
January 12 Snowshoe Hike, Schroeder, MN This is a free event, hike from Sugar Loaf Cove with the Superior Hiking Trail Association. Contact (218)5250001, www.sugarloafnorthshore.org, www.shta.org.
March 15 Steve Chadwick Walk-Run from the Cold, Duluth, MN This is a 5K that starts on the Lakewalk behind Fitgers. Contact Heather (218)727-5327, heather@landtrustduluth.org.
January 19 Northwoods Snowshoe Championships, Duluth, MN Competitors in this event have ranged in age from 9 to 79 and all ages and abilities are welcome. The event includes a marathon, half marathon, and 10 K, contact Barb Van Skike (320)838-3383, fitgers@fitgers.com, www.fitgers.com/events.
April 18-19 The Earth Day Half Marathon Festival, St. Coud, MN This Festival includes a 1km Junior Run, 5km Pasta Run and a Health Expo. Proceeds from Festival will donated to the Community Contribution Fund. Contact (320)3083325, earthday@stcloudstate.edu, www. earthdayhalfmarathon.org.
January 19 Polar Challenge 5K Run/Walk, Bimidji, MN This is a scenic out and back course along the shore of Lake Bemidji. Door prizes and refreshments for all participants.Contact (218)444354,x107, www.active.com.
April 26 Earth Week 4 Mile Run, Ely, MN This race is presented by the students in the Parks and Recreation Program at Vermilion Community College, there is also a 4 mile walk and a 1 mile kids’ race at the Trezona Trail. Contact Bill Tefft (218)365-7241, b.tefft@vcc.edu, www.vcc.edu.
January 26 Securian Frozen 5K and Half Marathon This is the 23rd anniversary, join the few, the proud, and the frozen! Contact Mary Anderson, mary@andersonraces. com, (651)223-4700. February 16 Freeze Yer Gizzard Blizzard Run , International Falls, MN The race is one of the events of “Icebox Days”, the community’s winter carnival. The race includes a 5 and 10K contact Kallie Briggs, (800)325-5766, www. internationalfallsmn.us. February 23 Twin Cities Snowshoe Shuffle, Minneapolis, MN This certified 5k and 10k race is for all ages and all abilities. A Fun course will be set up for kids. This event is a United States Snowshoe Association regional qualifier event. Contact (612) 781-6011 or 787-4000, agencyInfo@esns.org, www.esns.org. February 24 Hypothermic 1⁄2, Thunder Bay, ON This half marathon is aptly named; consider it a character building experience. Contact 344-7575, www. eventsrunningroom.com. March 1-2 Snowshoe Challenge, Thunder Bay, ON The first annual snowshoe challenge will be held at the Nor’ west Outdoor Centre, nestled in the Nor’wester
April 27 Fresh Air 10K, Thunder Bay, ON This is a classic race amongst area runners and marks the first race in the 2008 K-Star Series. Confederation College serves as the run headquarters, contact Alan Cranston (807)623-9393.
Cross Country Skiing
November 11-13 Cat Ski Clinic, Minneapolis, MN What are catskis? Classical All Terrain skis that work on varied terrain, including grass and sand. Contact Midwest Mountaineering for clinic times (800)380-8412, www.catskier. com. December 9 Distance Challenge, Thunder Bay, ON This is the first race of the season at the Lappe Ski Centre, for snow conditions call (807)767-2423, and for race info contact wsla@tbaytel.net, www. lappenordic.ca. December 15 Distance Challenge, Marathon, ON Check out the well-maintained, scenic and challenging trails maintained by the Marathon Cross Country Ski Club. Contact Anne-Marie Fequet (807)2291469, outskiing@hotmail.com. December 26 Boxing Day Classic, Thunder Bay, ON This event is held at the Lappe Ski Centre, contact wsla@tbaytel.net, www.
lappenordic.ca. December 29 Holiday Lantern Ski, Sault Ste. Marie, ON From dusk to 11 pm, ski by twinkling lantern light through the frosty night. Later, come back to the clubhouse for delicious hot food, drinks and tasty treats. Contact Mark Dockendorff (705)256-7258, info@hiawathahighlands.com. January 5 Sawtooth International Cross Country Ski Race, Grand Marais, MN This race is held at Pincushion Mountain Trail System. The trails are perched high above Lake Superior and provide spectacular views. Distances are 5, 10, and 20 km, contact nssrc@boreal. org, www.pincushiontrails.org. January 12 Sawmill Lake Classic, Atikokan, ON An all classic tour on a wilderness trail system within Quetico Park. Contact Chris (807)597-4503, cstromberg@shaw.ca, http:// atikokancanoe.tripod.com/beatenpath. January 13 Boulder Lake Ski Race, Duluth, MN Renowned for it fast and fun rolling course through the north woods, this 5th annual celebration is also known for having snow and being the premier early season race. 2008 will mark the first year this race is part of the Minnesota Skinny Ski Series. This is a 31K or 10.3K skate only race; contact Clayton Keim, (320)492-1275, www. boulderlakeskirace.com. January 18 Kamview Classic Ski Tour, Thunder Bay, ON This event is held at Kamview Nordic Centre, contact (807)475-7081, tbnordictrails@tbaytel.net, www. nordictrails-tb.on.ca. January 19 Loppet, Marathon, ON This event is organized by the Marathon Cross Country Ski Club, contact Anne-Marie Fequet (807)2291469, outskiing@hotmail.com.
include a 10 km classic, 13 km and 25 km freestyle. Contact (800)642-6377, www.duluthxc.com/nordicspirit. February 2 Kamview Ski Tour, Thunder Bay, ON This is the sister event to the Classic Ski Tour, contact (807)475-7081, tbnordictrails@tbaytel.net, www. nordictrails-tb.on.ca. February 9 Invitational Race, Marathon, ON This event is organized by the Marathon Cross Country Ski Club, contact Anne-Marie Fequet (807)2291469, outskiing@hotmail.com. February 9 Bon Soo Lantern Ski, Sault Ste Marie, ON This race is part of the BonSoo Winter Carnival. Mr. BonSoo will be skiing with the kids and sharing wonderful food and tasty treats. Contact Mark Dockendorff (705)256-7258, info@hiawathahighlands.com. February 16 Candlelight Ski/Snowshoe, Tofte, MN This event takes place on the Oberg Trail, contact the Sugarbrush Trail Association, info@sugarbushtrail.org, www.sugarbushtrail.org. February 17 The Chocolate Cup Challenge, Atikokan, ON In the spirit of Valentine’s Day, this race has loads of fun and chocolate. All ages and abilities are welcome to participate in the 2, 5 or 10 km race. Contact Janice (807)597-1561, jmatichuk@hotmail.com, http:// atikokancanoe.tripod.com/beatenpath. February 23 Kamview – Big Thunder Jackrabbit Races, Thunder Bay, ON Enter your kids in this race or come out to encourage the area’s youth. Contact (807)475-7081, tbnordictrails@tbaytel. net, www.nordictrails-tb.on.ca.
January 26-27 51st Annual Hiawatha Invitation Ski Races, Sault Ste Marie, ON Classic and skating races for all ages - jackrabbit, team and individual events. Contact Mark Dockendorff (705)2567258, info@hiawathahighlands.com.
March 1 31st Annual Sibley Ski Tour, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, ON Young and old, beginners and advanced are invited for an exciting day of fun and recreation. Three immaculately groomed distances are offered for both classic and skate techniques: 10 km family event, 20 km tour, and 50 km race. Contact Diane Ambro (807)6284846, info@sibleyskitour.ca, www. sibleyskitour.ca.
January 27 Nordic Spirit Cross-Country Ski Race, Duluth, MN This race winds through the majestic woods of Spirit Mountain. Events
March 2 Mabel Lake Loppet, Sault Ste. Marie, ON Back-country classic 18 km tour through the Algoma wilderness. Gather
round the bonfire; enjoy cookies, hot drinks and the company of other keen skiers and families. Contact Mark Dockendorff (705)256-7258, info@hiawathahighlands.com. March 15 Distance Challenge, Marathon, ON This event is organized by the Marathon Cross Country Ski Club, contact Anne-Marie Fequet (807)2291469, outskiing@hotmail.com. March 15 Wooden Ski Rendezvous, Duluth, MN Held annually at the Snowflake Nordic Centre, this event includes a 5 km Race/Tour. Contact (218)663-7457, www.woodenskis.com. March 17 Cross Quetico Lakes Tour, Atikokan, ON A classic ski tour into the backcountry of Quetico, refer to Routes (this issue) for more information. Contact Chris (807)597-4503, cstromberg@shaw. ca, http://atikokancanoe.tripod.com/ beatenpath. March 29 Lappe 24 Hour Relay Test your endurance at this event, contact wsla@tbaytel.net, www. lappenordic.ca.
Downhill Skiing
December 7-9 Snowcross Race, Sault Ste. Marie, ON Check out the season opener for the 2007/2008 Canadian Snowcross Racing Association at Searchmont Resort. www.snowcross.com. January 13 USSA Freestyle Half-Pipe Event, Duluth, MN Come and watch the competitors rip up the half-pipe. Contact Spirit Mountain (800)642-6377, www. spiritmt.com. February 8-10 Atmore Memorial FIS Race, Duluth, MN This event has been going strong for over 30 years and is a fundraiser for the Duluth/Superior Alpine Club. Contact (800)642-6377, www.spiritmt.com. February 2-3 USASA Half-Pipe Competition, Duluth, MN More action in the half-pipe at Spirit Mountain. Contact (800)642-6377, www.spiritmt.com. March 11-13 March Break Student Special, Thunder Bay, ON Mt. Baldy ski area offers three days Superior Outdoors
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Downtown Volkswagen event listing of group lessons, lift and rental packages (for either snowboarding or skiing) for students aged seven and up. Instructors provide a safe and fun group environment. Contact www. mtbaldyskiarea.com. March 15 Spring Break Luau, Duluth, MN A Hawaiian party, on snow! Contact Spirit Mountain (800)642-6377, www. spiritmt.com. April 12-13 Mountain Meltdown, Lutsen, MN Enjoy spring skiing at reduced rates and celebrate the end of the season; www.lutsen.com.
Dog Sledding
December 1-2 Can’t Depend on Snow, Fond du Lac, WI This event is a 4 mile sprint and will be held with or without snow at the Rolling Meadows Golf Course. Mushers will use sleds if there is adequate snow and wheeled rigs if not. The purse value is $500.00, Contact Mike Schwandt, (920)924-0132, be4may330@yahoo.com. January 26-27 John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon, Duluth, MN The Beargrease is widely respected as the sled dog race to prepare national and international sled dog teams – and is a qualifying race for Alaska’s long distance Iditarod. Contact (218)7227631, info@beargrease.com, www. beargrease.com. February 23-24 35th Annual Paul Bunyan Sled Dog Challenge, Bimidji, MN The sled dog challenge is held at the Buena Vista Ski Area, 12 miles north of Bimidji. Contact Jane McCollom (218)243-3477, www.paulbunyan.net/ sleddograce. March 1-2 Snowflake Skijor/Sprint Classic, Duluth, MN When most races are over and skijoring and sledding are just about done for the season, the Snowflake Nordic Center is still going strong. 2008 will mark the fifth year for this event; contact Chris (715)399-2796, sssc@blackriversleds. com, www.sssc.blackriversleds.com. March 2 Wolf Track Classic Sled Dog Race, Ely, MN A little known fact: Ely has the most sled dogs per area in the United States. This is a long distance race, distances are 30 and 60 miles (exact start and end points TBD). Contact 58
Superior Outdoors
Mary-Jane Caspers, (218)235-1269, mush@wolftrackclassic.com, www. wolftrackclassic.com.
Environmental
November 13 Polar Bear Survival and Global Warming, Sault Ste. Marie, ON Chad Kister, writer and environmental activist with the Alaska Coalition, will be speaking about Polar Bear Survival and Global Warming. Contact The Sault Naturalists, Dave Euler (705)2481494, donandvivhall@sympatico.ca. November 14 Forbidden Forest, Thunder Bay, ON A film about “corporate greed, lax government and people passionate about the place they love” – hosted by the Environmental Film Network @ 7 pm, Paramount Theatre Balcony, www. environmentnorth.ca. November 29 - December 1 MAWD Annual Meeting & Trade Show, Alexandria, MN This is the 37th annual meeting of the Minnesota Association of Watershed Districts, the event will be held at the Arrowwood Conference Center, contact www.mnwatershed.govoffice.com. December 4 Environment North Year-End Meeting, Thunder Bay, ON Interested in becoming more active in environmental issues? Come to the year-end meeting and social. Details to be announced, www.environmentnorth. ca. December 12 Being Caribou, Thunder Bay, ON A film about an environmentalist and wildlife biologist that follow a herd of caribou across 1500km of arctic tundra. Learn about their effort to raise awareness of threats to the caribou’s survival. Hosted by the Environmental Film Network @ 7 pm, Paramount Theatre Balcony, www. environmentnorth.ca.
Arts and Culture
November 1 - 4 Gales of November Photography Workshop, Wawa, ON A landscape photography workshop with professional photographer Rob Stimpson; held on Lake Superior at Rock Island Lodge. Contact (800)2039092, www.rockislandlodge.ca. November 9-11 17th Annual Bluegrass Weekend, Lutsen, MN Whether you play bluegrass music or just like to listen to it, you’ll love this weekend. This event is held at
the Lutsen Resort and is sponsored by North Shore Music Association, contact (800)258-8736, www. lutsenresort.com. November 13-16 and 17-20 Birch Ski Making, Grand Marais, MN Discover the secrets of the old Saami school of ski construction by crafting a pair of birch skis in this 3.5 day workshop. Contact (888)3879762, info@northhouse.org, www. thenorthhousefolkschool.com. November 15-16 Winter’s Gathering and Arctic Film Festival, Grand Marais, MN The Winterer’s Gathering & Arctic Film Festival is a multi-day educational event that celebrates the crafts, customs, landscape, history and stories of winter travel and traditional life ways in the north. Contact (888)3879762, info@northhouse.org, www. thenorthhousefolkschool.com. November 15-18 or 20-23 Snowshoe Construction, Grand Marais, MN By the end of this course, you can be proud that you shaped, bent and laced your own pair of traditional Ojibway snowshoes that will last a lifetime. Contact (888)3879762, info@northhouse.org, www. thenorthhousefolkschool.com. November 16-18 Winter Expo and Banff Mountain Film Festival, Minneapolis, MN Held at Midwest Mountaineering, contact (612)339-3433 or (888)9991077, www.outdooradventureexpo.com. November 18-19 Banff Mountain Film Festival, Duluth, MN Hosted by the Duluth Cross Country Ski Club, proceeds to benefit area youth skiing programs. Contact (218)2601259, info@duluthxc.com. November 30 Holiday Art Underground, Grand Marais, MN This event takes place at the Betsy Bowen Studio, contact Staci (218)3871992, staci@woodcut.com. January 4, 18 or March 7 Dog Sledding 101, Grand Marais, MN Alaskan Husky sled dogs are your instructors for this course as they greet you on campus for this engaging exchange. Students will actively participate with the dogs, musher, and equipment in caring, handling, training and traveling. Contact (888)3879762, info@northhouse.org, www. thenorthhousefolkschool.com. January 5
Winter Camping, Travel Skills and Expedition Foods, Grand Marais, MN Prepare for your next winter adventure on the frozen trail and discover the secrets of winter travel from polar explorer Lonnie Dupre. Contact (888)387-9762, info@northhouse.org, www.thenorthhousefolkschool.com. January 27 Banff Film Festival, Thunder Bay, ON One of the largest single showings on the tour, this evening is organized by the local chapter the Alpine Club of Canada and has great prizes in addition to great films. Contact (807)684-444, fpianka@hotmail.com. February 1- March 16 The Home, Grand Marais, MN This is an exhibition of craft inspired by the traditions and lifestyles of ‘the home’ across northern cultures. The exhibition is complemented by educational programming and handson coursework that explore traditional northern craft. Contact (888)3879762, info@northhouse.org, www. thenorthhousefolkschool.com. February 20-24 Shadows of the Mind Film Festival, Sault Ste. Marie Explore the Spirit of Life! Five days of film, workshops, panel discussions, video competitions, art exhibits, galas, and entertainment. Film line-up and events will be announced in January. Contact (705)759-3299 or (705)2562226, info@shadowsfilmfest.com, www. shadowsfilmfest.com February 24 Short Short’s Film Festival, Duluth, MN This is the 3rd annual festival, held at The Play Ground Theatre, call (218)733-7555.
Winter Festivals January – March Winterfest, Duluth, MN Winterfest is a series of events that are scheduled throughout the winter months. Examples include all styles of skiing, skating, ice-fishing, ski jumping, a polar plunge and even a Lutefiskeating contest. Contact (800)4-Duluth, www.visitduluth.com. January 4-6 Snowball Weekend, Lutsen, MN This is a fun weekend of skiing and music, come and enjoy six bands in three nights. Contact (218) 663-7281, info@lutsen.com, www.lutsen.com. January 17-20 Winter Festival, International Falls, MN
This four-day festival is packed full of fun and wacky games for people of all ages. Featured events include frozen turkey bowling, snow sculpting, smoosh races, snowshoeing, a winter camping clinic and the Freeze Yer Gizzard Blizzard Run. Contact (800)3255766, chamber@intlfalls.org, www. internationalfallsmn.us.
mixed climbing outdoors, www. umdrsop.org.
January 18-24 Polar Daze, Bimidji, MN This is a series of events to celebrate winter. Highlights include the “polar plunge”. Contact the Chamber of Commerce (800)458-2223, chamber@paulbunyan.net, www. bemidji.org.
February 29 – March 2 Nipigon Ice Fest, Nipigon, ON The classic ice climbing event at Orient and Kama Bay, includes climbing clinics, gear demos, slide shows and seminars. Check for updates at www. nipigonicefest.com.
February 1-10 Bon Soo Winter Carnival, Sault Ste. Marie, ON Refer to the Adventure Travel section (this issue); contact (866)899-1607, www.bonsoo.on.ca, MrBonSoo@bonsoo.on.ca. February 1-3 Laskiainen Finnish Sliding Festival, Aurora, MN This is a family event that celebrates Finnish customs, crafts, music, sports, foods and, of course sliding! Contact (218)638-2551, info@ironrange.org, www.ironrange.org. February 2-4, 9-11 Family Festival, Lutsen Mountains, MN This Festival includes free ski rentals, sleigh rides, snowshoe tours, a family fun race, bonfire and marshmallow roast, and fireworks. Contact (218)6637281, www.lutsen.com. February 8-10 Icebox Days, Two Harbors, MN The Festival includes a sliding hill, snow golf, smoosch race, out house race, Contact Dick at (218)834-2305, www. twoharbourschamber.com. February 28 – March 3 Winter Tracks Festival, Gunflint Trail, MN This is the 4th annual Festival hosted by Gunflint Trail resorts and businesses. There are activities for the entire family including cross-country skiing & snowshoeing, indoor art exhibits, skating and an outdoor pizza party. Contact (800)338-6932, gta@gunflinttrail.com, www.wintertracks.com. Ice
Climbing
December 8 Mixed Climbing Clinic, Duluth, MN Mixed climbers ascend both rock and ice using their ice tools and crampons. Come find out what all the fuss is about and try your hand at
February 15-18 Montreal River-Batchawana Bay Ice Festival, Batchawana Bay, ON This is the 8th annual festival, contact (705)946-6054, info@northofsuperiorc limbing.com.
March 7-10 10th Agawa Canyon Ice Festival, Sault Ste. Marie, ON This Festival is held at mile 112 in Agawa Canyon. Contact (705)946-6054, info@northofs uperiorclimbing.com.
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Perspective
Knute Hansen (1915-1988)
Knute is a member of the Northwestern Ontario Sports Hall of Fame for his contributions to the sport of skiing. In the 1960s, he and brother, Thor, were instrumental in the development of what is now known as Big Thunder Sports Park, one of North America’s premier Nordic skiing facilities. 60
Superior Outdoors
Lodging & Adventure along Lake Superior’s Coast in the Superior National Forest
90 DOWNHILL RUNS 196 km X-C TRAILS plus — Snowshoeing, Dog Sledding & Sleigh Rides
GREAT LINE-UP OF LIVE MUSIC Slopeside at Papa Charlie’s throughout the ski season! Calendar of events and tickets available online at lutsen.com
Details at lutsen.com or at these fine resorts
CARIBOU HIGHLANDS LODGE Ski-In/Ski-Out Resort Lodge • Condos • Townhomes • Log Homes 1.800.642.6036 www.caribouhighlands.com
EAGLE RIDGE AT LUTSEN MTNS. Ski-In/Ski-Out Resort Luxuriously Heated Indoor/Outdoor Pool 1.800.360.7666 www.EagleRidgeAtLutsen.com
BLUEFIN BAY ON LAKE SUPERIOR “Minnesota’s Favorite Resort” — Minnesota Monthly Magazine 1.800.BLUEFIN (258.3346) www.bluefinbay.com
LUTSEN RESORT ON LAKE SUPERIOR “You Wish You Could Stay Forever…” — Midwest Living Magazine 1.800.258.8736 www.lutsenresort.com
CLASSIC WINTER VACATIONS ON AMERICA’S NORTH COAST www.lutsen.com
218.406.1320
WHAT GOT YOU THROUGH SUMMER... WILL KEEP YOU GOING THIS WINTER. VISIT US ONLINE TO SHOP FOR SKIS, BOOTS, CLOTHING AND EVERYTHING ELSE YOU NEED THIS SEASON.
FRESH AIR EXPERIENCE 311 VICTORIA AVE E. THUNDER BAY, ONTARIO 1-807-623-9393 toll free 1-877-311-9393 www.freshairexp.com