Superior Outdoors - Winter 09/10 by Superior Outdoors

Minnesota Moose at risk

Superior Outdoors P. 8

magazine

Climbing Casket Quarry Dry-tooling Duluth P.30

Under a Blanket of Snow Exploring Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Upper Peninsula P.36 SUM 09

Winter 09/10

Canada/US $4.95

62825 22634

Stokely Creek Lodge A Sustainable Success Story P.50

Yurt to Yurt Backcountry on the GunflintTrail P.30

PLUS

Travel Voyageur Winter Carnival Artist Profile Kleewyck Stained Glass Food Syrup of the North

MOBILITY

contents

features Under a Blanket of Snow Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s UP

by Chris Gibbs

The King of Stokely Creek

Sustainable Success in the Algoma Highlands

by Michelle McChristie

Yurt to Yurt

Backcountry Skiing on the Gunflint Trail

by Conor Mihell

Climbing Casket Quarry Dry-tooling Duluth Style

by Nick Buda

Intro 3

Adventure Travel 17

Weather 5

Routes 19

Superior Styles 5

Arts and Literature 25

Sustainable Developments 7

Reflections 50

The Food Chain 8

Perspective 64

Chris Gibbs

departments P.50

Conor Mihell

P.25

On the cover: Skiing the trails of Stokely Creek Lodge Photo by: Darren McChristie

This page: Jenn Chikoski on Reefer Madness, Casket Quarry Photo by: Nick Buda

Superior Outdoors

Superior Outdoors m ag azi ne

Editor-in-chief/Design Darren McChristie Art Director John-Paul Marion

Contributing Editors Tiffany Jarva, Michelle McChristie Copy Editor Nancy Saunders Business Manager Doug McChristie Contributing Writers Wolfgang Brinck, Nick Buda, Chris Gibbs, Tiffany Jarva, Doug Jensen, Micaella Kinzli, Darren McChristie, Michelle McChristie, Conor Mihell, Sharon Moen, Graham Saunders, Greg Seitz Contributing Photographers Eric Berglund, Nick Buda, Jarron Childs, Chris Gibbs, Julian Holenstein, Micaella Kinzli, Nathan Lovas, Shawn Malone, Darren McChristie, Michelle McChristie, Conor Mihell, Peter Moore, Aaron Petersen, Dr. Mary Richardson, James Smedley, Jon Wood Publisher The Boreal Company Advertising Sales/Distribution Michelle McChristie Superior Outdoors is published twice a year: Summer (May) and Winter (November) Copyright ÂŠ 2009 by The Boreal Company, All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without written permission is strictly forbidden. Views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. Editorial and Advertising: Submissions must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Superior Outdoors cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material.

NATRIBROS SURF SURFING SUPERIOR AND BEYOND...

IF UNDELIVERABLE RETURN TO: The Boreal Company Suite 242, 1100 Memorial Avenue, Thunder Bay, Ontario P7B 4A3 Telephone (807) 627-3017; Fax (807) 622-2575 E-mail: info@superioroutdoors.ca Disclaimer: the activities described and illustrated herein are performed by trained athletes and could result in serious bodily injury; do not attempt them without proper training, safety equipment, and supervision. The Boreal Company is not responsible for injuries sustained by readers or failure of equipment described or illustrated herein. ISSN Number 1913-444 Canada Post Publications Agreement Number 41497554 Printed in Canada on Acid and Elemental Chlorine Free, Post-Consumer Recycled Paper Superior Outdoors Inc donates 1% of all sales to 1% for the Planet www.onepercentfortheplanet.com

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D. McChristie

intro Enjoying the ice and cold on Black Bay, Lake Superior

have to admit it. I love winter. It’s not that I don’t like the other seasons, but there are so many things about winter that sets it apart. I love the cold, crisp air and how it alerts my senses and makes me feel alive. I take pride in knowing that I can always dress for the cold; after all, I don’t like being cold. The ability to pile on and remove layers of clothing is one factor that sets winter apart from other seasons. It’s hard to escape rain, heat or humidity - winter is simply a season that requires preparation and the right gear. It seems that most people, even selfproclaimed northerners, have trouble accepting this. I’d hate winter too if I tried to get through the coldest days in a flimsy leather coat and dress shoes. The best winters are predictable. When the snow arrives, the temperature drops and it stays cold until the calendar declares it is spring. Okay, there might be one or two heat waves that cause some melting but, in an ideal winter, the temperature is consistent enough that cross-country skiers only have to use hard wax, saving klister for the spring. Sunny days in the winter are as good as being on the beach. The intense rays of the sun, the clarity of the light and the contrasting colours between earth and sky are hard to match in any other season. As an avid snow kiter, I even like cold and windy days - the days when the wind chill keeps most people indoors. This winter issue is a celebration of the season, whether there is snow or not, and whether it is cold or warm. Chris Gibbs guides readers through the winter wonderland of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and Conor Mihell shares his experience of “yurt to yurt” skiing. We also explore topics such as the population of ungulates, an infamous invasive species and the syrup of the north. D. McChristie Superior Outdoors

Nestled in the boreal forest north of Lake Superior, Manitouwadge is a community rich in recreation and tourism opportunities. An adrenaline rush awaits you around every corner. This is no amusement park. This is nature at its best. You can downhill ski or snowboard until exhaustion or cross-country ski through a landscape of white silence on a bed of pristine powder. Ski on club trails, or venture out on your own and while you are out, drop a line through the ice for a great day of fishing. In Manitouwadge, you can live your dream and PLAY IN THE EXTREME!

Visit us at www.manitouwadge.ca - or call 1-877-826-PLAY (7529) 4

Superior Outdoors

weather

Winter Cold

Myths and Bitter Realities in the Basin

D. McChristie

A billboard thermometer proclaiming “The coldest temperature in Canada -72” used to greet travellers on the TransCanada Highway in White River, Ontario. I am sure that occasional mornings in mid-winter could suggest this as reality, but the coldest official temperature for White River is -61 F (or -51.7 for Celsius types). This only makes the short list in Ontario and barely qualifies as an “also-ran” in Canada. The real winner in Ontario, with -58.3 C, is Iroquois Falls and they could change a similar sign to -73 F for promotional purposes. If one wants Canada’s coldest, it requires a trip to Snag in the Yukon Territory. Here -65 C (-81 F) remains the coldest of the cold. White River, original home of Winnie the Pooh, perhaps Canada’s most famous bear, has not had an official weather station since 1976. The station was poorly located in a small basin or “frost hollow” that facilitated cool air drainage. Most of the town of White River is probably in a frigid league with Manitouwadge and Chapleau, nearby inland communities that have all-time minimums of -45 C (-49 F). A key-word is “inland” which takes us to another myth that Lake Superior is always cold. Two myths do not make a truth. A swim in early June will take one’s breath away but rules change in fall and through the winter. The immense volume of water stores summer heat and tempers adjacent shorelines until early spring arrives. The most pronounced winter warming takes place immediately next the Lake but moderation of extreme temperatures can extend 10 to 30 kilometres inland. Therefore, the lake creates a buffer of relative warmth in the winter. Locations like Sault Ste. Marie and Marquette have especially mild winters. These balmy conditions are related to prevailing winds off the lake. Often there is another consequence – snow. In a typical winter, many locations on the eastern

and southern shores of Lake Superior receive an extra metre (more than three feet) of lake-effect snow. Snow belt areas have the mildest winters but locations around the western and northern side of the lake such as Grand Marais, Thunder Bay and Schreiber also experience average winter temperatures that are warmer than inland locations by several degrees. The moderating effect of Superior works in the opposite direction in the spring and early summer. Nevertheless, the net effect of these seasonal moderations is slightly positive on an annual basis. Latitude is the main determinant of temperatures; higher latitudes result in lower average temperatures. In central North America, a degree increase in latitude results in an average annual temperatures that is about one degree cooler. The change is more pronounced in winter, with January temperatures approximately two degrees cooler. Elevation also plays a role, although the impact is more modest than in mountainous regions. The effects of latitude and elevation are especially evident on the height of land to the north of Superior. Towns such as Armstrong, Nakina, Geraldton and Hornepayne are on or near this divide between water flow destined for Lake Superior or Hudson Bay. These communities have average January temperatures of about -20 C (-4 F). Average temperatures are even colder in latitudes closer to Hudson Bay, although record cold daily minimums are mainly confined to this height of land. The coldest goes to Armstrong, where -50 C (-58 F) was recorded in January 1957. The other communities have been close and all have recorded -49 C (-45 F). The winter of 2008-2009, remembered by many in Northern Ontario as extremely cold, had some quirks. The coldest temperatures occurred in and between Fort Frances and Atikokan with -42 C (-44 F). Armstrong and most northern locations struggled to reach -39 C (-38 F). Graham Saunders

The winter sun sets over a frozen Nipigon Bay

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superiorstyles Lonnie Dupre Hooked on the High Arctic Off the coast of Greenland an ice surge hit, pushed a tandem kayak up against a rocky cliff and flipped two explorers into the glacial waters. “We were sucked under the ice and had to find cracks or holes in order to get out,” describes Arctic explorer and environmentalist Lonnie Dupre. “It was pretty scary. Lucky we were close to shore, we had hot fluids, could strip down, and change quickly into dry clothes so hypothermia didn’t set in. We were lucky.” Miles away from the frigid waters of Greenland, it’s a mostly-sunny September day in Grand Marais, Minnesota. The fall leaves are at their peak, fading from green to yellow and orange. It is one of the warmest Septembers on record and the small harbour town is teaming with people. The salmon are running, grouse season has started and The Northern Harvest Unplugged music festival is on, where Dupre’s artist-wife, Kelly, is helping out. “I picked Grand Marais initially because of the cool summers,” says Dupre, who moved to the area in 1990. “We still had Inuit sled dogs and it was a good, cool place to train them. Cook County also has some of the best cross-country skiing in the U.S.” In his recently remodeled studio-like home, a framed 1909 black and white photo of Kali Peary, a part-Inuit child of the great American explorer Robert Peary, adorns one of the walls. On another is an original linoleum block print from Kelly’s children’s book, The Raven’s Gift, a true story based on what Dupre describes as one of his “most spiritual” expedition experiences. Over the years, Dupre and team members have traveled to many remote villages, sometimes being the first Westerners to have ever made contact. “We have much to learn from the Inuit culture,” says Dupre “They know how to live life simply and be happy. In the U.S. we need to learn that we can do so much more with a lot less.” Dupre has traveled over 14,000 miles throughout the high Arctic. He and Australia’s Johan Hoelscher were the first ones to circumnavigate Greenland by dog sled and

One World Expedition

Lonnie en route to the north pole in 2006

kayak. The expedition was completed in 2001, after more than five years of planning, fund-raising, and training. “If not my proudest moment, it was my mostrelieved,” says Dupre, laughing lightly. “Many have died attempting this. I was half-elated to be alive, half-elated to be finished. It was an honour.” Dupre and co-explorer, Eric Larsen, also became the first to reach the North Pole in the summer. The “One World Expedition” was accomplished by pulling and paddling modified canoes over 600 miles of shifting ice. Dupre believes this 2006 expedition was successful in raising awareness about the melting of the polar ice cap. “We had been campaigning for climate change for at least three years prior and with this expedition we reached more people worldwide on issues of global warming.” A farm boy from Minnesota and a descendent of Jacques Cartier on his mother’s side, Dupre says he was always antsy in school. “School stifled me; I didn’t know what I wanted to do when I grew up.” Shortly after high school, Dupre left for Alaska for what was supposed to be a three-week adventure, but instead turned into a three-year stay, during which Dupre worked as a commercial fisherman. Inspired by friends who went to the north pole in 1986, Dupre spent the winter of 1985-86 in

Brooks Range, Alaska building a primitive log cabin and living off the land. “I got a little skinny. Perhaps it wasn’t completely successful but I learned a lot.” After that first winter, Dupre pursued a multitude of expeditions, including: teaming up with Russians in 1989, dog sledding and skiing along the Siberian and Alaskan coasts to promote peace between the USSR and USA; completing the first west-to-east crossing of the Northwest Passage from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Churchill, Manitoba; dog sledding from Norway to Russia; and participating in the closing ceremonies of the 1994 Winter Olympics. Dupre’s career as an Arctic explorer has spanned more than 20 years. He has been the subject of many adventure documentaries, recipient of numerous awards, including the Soviet Sportsman’s Medal from Mikhail Gorbachev, and the author of Greenland Expedition - Where Ice is Born, Dupre says he’s going to “sit back and take a breather” and concentrate on photography and book publishing. But, a few breaths later, Dupre mentions that he’s not done with expeditions, and plans to cross Antarctica sometime in the future. Tiffany Jarva

Superior Outdoors

sustainabledevelopments > at risk

Minnesota Moose on the Decline There is perhaps no creature of the north country that more people hope to see than a moose. The big ungulate is an icon of the north woods and to see one is a rarity and a special treat. In recent years, though, scientists have become worried that the state’s moose population is threatened. The moose herd in northwestern Minnesota has declined precipitously in recent decades - from several thousand in the 1980s, to a mere 100 today. The population of northeastern Minnesota’s moose is still a strong 7,000, but researchers say their numbers are trending downward in a way that is reminiscent of the early stages of the northwestern herd’s decline. The Moose Advisory Committee, organized by the Department of Natural Resources (DNR), completed a report describing a few broad causes for the declining moose population. Incidentally, both can be linked to climate change. The first factor is the increased population of white-tailed deer. The deer transmit a brain parasite that is fatal to moose, particularly when deer population densities get too high. The second factor is warmer weather. During hot summers, moose eat less and thus do not have sufficient stores for the winter months. In addition, warmer winters contribute to growing deer populations, as well as ticks which can irritate moose to the extent that the moose will rub off its coat and then suffer from exposure. Despite its declinding numbers, the moose is not fated to disappear from Minnesota. The Moose Advisory Committee’s report also offered the DNR recommendations to combat this worrying trend, and you can help. First, refrain from feeding deer and consider applying for a hunting tag in an effort to control the population. Second, help preserve habitat, such as wetlands, that help moose stay cool in the summer. The report also recommends continued monitoring of the moose population and additional research about climate change is also required to improve our understanding of the long term trends of moose populations. You can help moose researchers by reporting any moose sightings to the Natural Resources Research Institute at the University of Minnesota-Duluth. Greg Seitz is the Communications Director with the Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness www.friends-bwca.org

Moose photo by Jarron Childs

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> invasive species

Foreigners Lurk in Lake Superior Foreign invaders are lurking in Lake Superior. They hide in cracks and crevices, under rocks and on pilings. They are illegal immigrants of sorts. Divers recently discovered a couple dozen of them - zebra mussels at Isle Royale. Even the jewel royale of Lake Superior may not be immune to the potential threats of zebra mussels. Over 20 years ago, zebra mussels infested the Great Lakes. Drawn up with the ballast water of ships from freshwater ports from Eurasia, they were spit back out into ports like Detroit, Thunder Bay, and Duluth-Superior. Their cousins, quagga mussels, came on the scene a few years later. In Lake Superior, zebra mussels are only reproducing in Duluth-Superior and Thunder Bay harbours; quaggas are only reproducing in Duluth-Superior Harbor. Although zebra mussels were reported at other ports, they are not established. Widespread across the other Great Lakes, these mussels foul beaches, can cut feet, clog water intakes, and damage boat motors. Management costs related to zebra mussels are in the billions of dollars. They upset the food web by consuming small plants and animals necessary for native species. They reproduce extravagantly, forming carpets on the bottom of lakes and rivers. Comparatively, there are differences between zebra and quagga mussels. Zebra mussels adhere to hard surfaces, whereas quagga mussels do not. Quagga mussels can live in warmer, shallow as well as colder, deeper waters, and soft bottoms – giving them a competitive advantage over zebra mussels. In a smack-down of epic ecological proportions, quagga mussels are quietly outcompeting zebra mussels in bottom arenas of Lakes Erie, Huron, Ontario, and Michigan. Why is this important? Quagga mussels are more competitive in near shore and deeper waters. They are blamed for the drastic drop in a bottom-dwelling native freshwater shrimp, called Diporeia, in Lake Michigan. Diporeia, once abundant in all of the Great Lakes, except Superior), declined at the same time that mussels invaded. With less to eat, whitefish, an important commercial and sport fish, are growing to less than half their expected size in Lake Michigan. The mussels are also blamed for suffocating freshwater clams, and are linked to fish and wildlife die-offs. Meanwhile, Lake Superior remains relatively invasive mussel-free. Experts believe that this is due to cold water temperatures combined with low dissolved calcium (<15 mg/L). The lake itself may be immune to the mussels, yet footholds in Duluth-Superior and Thunder Bay harbours provide stepping out points to inland waters where conditions are better suited. Invasive mussels can spread inland by attaching to boat hulls, aquatic plants, fishing, diving and waterfowl hunting gear, boat lifts, or infested water. Larvae, called veligers, are invisible to the naked eye. Doug Jensen and Sharon Moen University of Minnesota Sea Grant Program Duluth, MN

U.S. Geological Survey

sustainabledevelopments

Unlike the Zebra mussel (top), the Quagga mussel does not adhere to hard surfaces

How can you help? Once established, eradication is practically impossible This is why prevention is the key. • Inspect and remove visible mussels, aquatic plants, fish or animals and mud from boat, motor, trailer. • Drain water from bait buckets, livewell, bilge, and motor. • Dispose of unwanted live bait and worms in the trash. • Spray/wash your boat, trailer and equipment with high pressure or hot water before going to other waters, OR • Dry everything for at least five days.

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sustainabledevelopments > research

Counting Caribou Infrared Technique Detects Surprise in Pukaskwa Population High-tech infrared surveying technology has revealed that the population of woodland caribou in Pukaskwa National Park is larger than previously thought. Helicopter-based “eye-spy” counts estimated the park’s caribou herd to be about five. But last winter, Parks Canada ecologist Martha Allen organized a comprehensive survey using fixed-wing aircraft and infrared detectors, which were able to detect and identify heat radiating from the elusive woodland caribou that wander Pukaskwa’s Lake Superior coastline. The survey suggests the park is home to 16 caribou. Still, Allen and other biologists say the surprise jump in park caribou numbers means little for the long-term survival of woodland caribou on Lake Superior’s north shore. Pukaskwa National Park’s boreal wilderness used to be the heart of woodland caribou territory in Ontario, which extended as far south as Lake Nipissing and Algonquin Provincial Park as late as 1880. Since then, the woodland caribou population has plummeted. According to the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR), caribou range has decreased by 50 percent across the province, declining at an average rate of nearly 35,000 square kilometres of territory per decade. As a result, the species is deemed “threatened” under Ontario’s endangered species legislation and by the federal Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada. Researchers think that forestry—particularly the clear-cut techniques used in the boreal forest—make the landscape more easily traversed by predators like wolves, which tend to prefer preying on woodland caribou over moose. Currently, the Pukaskwa caribou population is one of Ontario’s southernmost. According to Allen, woodland caribou remain in the park largely because offshore islands in Lake Superior give them safe haven from predators during calving season, and the park’s 1,800 square kilometres is devoid of logging operations. Essentially, Pukaskwa itself has become an island: A swath of roads and clearcuts 12

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abutting park boundaries separates the park’s herd from the rest of the province’s woodland caribou, which persist in viable numbers north of 50 degrees latitude. “What we have here are remnants,” says Allen. “Although Pukaskwa’s small caribou population has persisted for many years, experts feel it might be too small to sustain itself for many more.” According to the MNR’s recovery strategy report on woodland caribou, the only way to save the Lake Superior population is to connect it to northern herds by way of corridors of undisturbed wilderness. The option of reintroducing more caribou to Pukaskwa has had little success elsewhere. Few of the 35 caribou transported from northern Lake Superior’s Slate Islands to Lake Superior Provincial Park in 1989 managed to survive. Of the province’s three other reintroduction attempts, only the 1982 transfer of eight caribou to predator-free Michipicoten Island has been successful in the long term (the island is now home to about 200 caribou). What’s more, the MNR report admits that genetic viability analysis suggests there’s a “high probability” that the well-known Slate Islands woodland caribou population, which at about 300 animals is currently among the densest in the world, will be extinct within the next 100 years. C

10/9/07

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A birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-eye-view of Pukaskwaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rugged coastline photo by Conor Mihell

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It takes 80 to 100 litres of birch sap to make one litre of syrup compared to 20 to 40 litres of maple sap

Birch Syrup The Syrup of the North I drizzle pure birch syrup on chopped apples and zucchini, wrap them in foil, and place them on a barbeque for a few minutes. Slightly caramelized, this is my first time trying birch syrup, and it has a rich earthy-sweet taste. “People like it because it’s different,” says Dave Challen, co-owner of Boreal Birch Syrup, “It has a unique, bold flavour.” His partner Beth Kuiper agrees. “It has a savoury, sweet taste, like molasses.” For this reason, and the fast-growing movement toward eating local food, more chefs are using birch syrup. They are also drawn to its bold taste and dark colour, especially as a glaze on fish. “It’s also really good as a vinaigrette or on vanilla ice-cream,” smiles Kuiper. Based in Thunder Bay, husband-and-wife team Challen and Kuiper run Boreal Birch Syrup, the only company in Ontario that produces commercial birch syrup. After helping a friend jump-start a similar birch syrup initiative in the Yukon, they decided to do the same. “It was so fun,” says Challen, “and no one in Ontario was doing it, so we thought, why not?” After returning from Dawson City, Challen poured over forest inventory maps and did some exploring to find the ideal stand just north of the city - forest that was slated to be cut. He took

on the challenge of convincing the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) that more monetary value would be gained by leasing the 65-acres of land to make birch syrup, as opposed to a one-time cut. Eventually the MNR agreed and now “people are really excited about what we’re doing,” says Challen. “For me the idea of it being a sustainable harvest is really appealing,” adds Kuiper. Cognizant of the importance of value-added products, a new maple/birch blend has been added to the line. Challen has started carving birch bowls and spoons, and Kuiper has recently learned Scandinavian-style birch weaving. She explains that the crafts are “also about celebrating the Scandinavian culture of the area.” Starting in 2006, Challen and Kuiper use a sustainable process based on the Alaska Birch Syrup Makers Association guidelines. The season typically begins in late-April or earlyMay. About 500 trees are tapped by hand. Each birch tree can produce up to 20 litres of sap a day; more than 30,000 litres of sap is collected during the season. It takes about 80 to 100 litres of birch sap to create one litre of syrup, compared to 20 to 40 litres of maple sap. “There is more birch in this area than maple,” says Challen. “It’s definitely the syrup of the North.” Tiffany Jarva Superior Outdoors

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Voyageur Winter Carnival The Voyageur Winter Carnival, hosted by the Fort William Historical Park, is jam-packed with plenty of fun for voyageurs of all ages. The event is slated for February 13-15, 2010 and will feature a plethora of winter activities, such as dog sled ride, a snow maze, a snow sculpture competition, snowshoe games, skating, tubing and sleigh rides. One of the carnival’s main events is the Chilly Willy Pond

Hockey Challenge. There is also an opportunity to play Canada’s other national sport – lacrosse. For people with a sweet tooth, don’t miss the cabane à sucre, or sugar shack, for a taste of maple taffy. The candy is made by pouring molten syrup on clean snow and is true to Fort William’s voyageur roots. There are also indoor games and crafts for children, or perhaps adults that need an excuse to get out of the cold!

Wooden Ski Rendezvous What’s old is new again as vintage, wooden skis are celebrated to preserve the heritage of cross country skiing. On March 13, 2010, the Wooden Ski Rendezvous will be held at the Snowflake Nordic Center in Duluth, Minnesota. Participants may choose between a five-kilometre race or tour and awards will be presented to the top finishers of the race/tour and to the best-dressed male and female skier. At the centre of the Wooden Ski Rendezvous is George Hovland - the owner of the Snowflake Nordic Center who also happens to be a former U.S. Cross Country Ski Olympian. In 2008, George skied the Rendezvous in the same ski knickers that he wore in 1952 in Oslo, Norway at the Winter Olympics! In addition to George’s knickers, the Rendezvous attracts wooden ski aficionados dressed in vintage skiwear and sporting wooden skis, complete with three-pin bindings and bamboo poles. Although cross country skiing equipment and clothing has changed dramatically over the past 40 years, the love of wood and wool has not. The Wooden Ski Rendezvous enables participants to relive the simple times of years ago. Superior Outdoors

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Skating Two Island Lake by Micaella Kinzli

It was a dark winter afternoon and the sun cast a sliver of glowing orange along the horizon when my friends and I decided to ice skate across Two Island Lake. The early winter had been an exceptional one for smooth ice and little snowfall. The ice conditions made skating the perfect adventure while we waited for snow to cover the grass and rocks on the ski trails. Two Island Lake is located in the Superior National Forest, just twenty minutes inland from Lake Superior. At the boat landing, we timidly checked the ice before putting on our skates. The required thickness for human weight is around two inches, but our fears were abated when we noticed some fresh truck tire tracks on the snow-covered surface. After lacing up our skates and donning life jackets, we shakily headed out toward the middle of the lake. Although the snow was only an inch thick, it was just enough to hide the ice’s irregularities. This led to many awkward arm-flailing moments. For the most part, the ice was nearly as smooth as a skating rink and, before long, we realized the true misnomer of the lake’s name. It appeared the island count was closer to a dozen and not a measly two. We stopped at the first island, excitedly taking pictures and marveling at the novelty of skating to this rocky outcrop in the middle of a lake. Skating toward the next group of islands, I

settled into a rhythm that never happens at a rink. Instead of going around and around in circles, we were going forwards and covering a lengthily distance to, what seemed to be, the middle of nowhere. The wind was calm and the trees on each island were covered in a light dusting of snow. As sunset approached, the clouds became awash in blue, pink and purple. The only sound was that of our blades scraping the smooth surface of the ice. At the far end of the lake, we stopped in a small bay and watched a flock of crows circling nearby. The ice was smoothest there and we made several loops around the bay’s perimeter, careful not to get too close to shore and possible incoming streams. With darkness fast approaching, we turned back. The boat landing was so far away that it was no longer visible. As we glided back under the darkening sky I realized how lucky I was to have this awe-inspiring experience without having to travel far from home. With a little basic gear and some imagination, a new adventure had been discovered. Micaella Kinzli lives in Grand Marais, MN. She loves outdoor adventures of all kinds and spends her summers doing sailing charters on Lake Superior. Superior Outdoors

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When the winter sky is blue and the days are long, head for the sunny, south-facing slopes of Superiorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s north shore. The combination of soft snow and dramatic scenery make for supreme spring skiing conditions. In seasons when the lake is ice-free, the water provides an intense blue backdrop, making it difficult to distinguish earth from sky. If you look intently across the seemingly endless expanse of Superior, you might see the states on the south shore - a rare opportunity. On the lift, the lake and sun are at your back, requiring you to crane you neck to soak up the sun. So remember to take in the view at the top while you are planning your lines down your chosen slope.

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Superior Outdoors

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The Cold Water Paddling Experience Dodging ice chunks during a cold water paddle in Thunder Bay

Cold weather paddling might seem like it’s just about enduring misery. But with the right gear, you can be warm and have the opportunity to extend your paddling season. Cold water padding is not much different from warm water paddling except, of course, you’re wearing a lot more gear and are more encumbered. Going out to paddle becomes a bigger deal, not so much because it’s cold, but because it takes so long to get all that gear on. If the air is cold as well as the water, paddling becomes a new experience. The coldest weather I’ve paddled in was about -12 C (10 F) - a little too cold. The problem with extreme cold is that everything ices up in a hurry. The boat builds up ice on the deck, your paddling jacket builds up ice and starts to feel like it’s made out of cardboard. But worst of all, the paddle builds up ice everywhere except in the area under your hands. If you move your hands, that part of the paddle ices up too. So, you need some sort of scraper with you to keep the ice off the paddle. Cold water paddling is easier and more enjoyable on a sunny day. Then the deck of the boat absorbs enough heat to stay ice-free, as does your paddling jacket. Knowing how to roll is also essential when going out in cold weather. Not only does it minimize the time you have to spend in cold water, there’s no guarantee that your pump won’t ice up. Getting your sprayskirt back on might also be difficult since the cockpit coaming will build up ice as soon as it gets wet. If the coaming has a good lip on it, then the ice won’t be so much of a problem. But if your coaming doesn’t have a very pronounced lip, then getting your sprayskirt to stay on might be a struggle. The key to enjoying and surviving in cold water is to have the proper gear. Cold water isn’t just a phenomenon associated with cold weather, particularly in the Great Lakes. Obviously, you don’t need as much protection when the water is 15 C (60 F) and the air is 25 C (80 F) as you do when the water is 0 C (32 F) and the air temperature is below freezing. But,

extended immersion in 15 C (60 F) water can be just as fatal as shorter immersion in water that’s just above freezing. Remember, good judgment is always in order. You don’t want to be wearing so much gear that you’ll overheat but you need to ensure that you can survive the swim to shore. Here is a partial list of essential cold weather gear: • • • •

•

Drysuit – preferably with integral booties instead of ankle gaskets Synthetic pile clothing - several layers, ensure the top layers do not restrict arm movement Neoprene hood and gloves/mittens - at least 3 mm thick, found at dive shops Neoprene footwear - if your drysuit has booties, you will need additional foot wear to protect the fragile booties; if your drysuit has ankle gaskets, you should wear a combination of neoprene socks and neoprene booties Sprayskirt and PFD – ensure they fit over your drysuit and extra layers of clothing

After you have collected your gear, get dressed, jump in, swim around and check for leaks. Make sure the ankle gaskets hold up to the water pressure and that your feet are adequately protected. Testing needs to be repeated at the start of every cold water season because drysuits develop leaks and the gaskets wear out. Don’t wait to test your gear until your first outing, avoid paddling with defective gear. Wolfgang Brinck has been building, studying and teaching others how to build traditional skin on frame kayaks since 1987. He is the author of The Aleutian Kayak, published by Ragged Mountain Press - www.wolfgangbrinck.com. Superior Outdoors

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artsandliterature

Artist Profile: Kleewyck They say that the older you get, the more you become like your parents. In Joshua Dowbak’s case, the path he has chosen stems directly from a passion for art that he shares with his parents. Having grown up immersed in visual arts, music and the outdoors, Joshua did not need to look very far to find his career. Damon and Joshua Dowbak are the artists of Kleewyck Stained Glass Studios in Thunder Bay, Ontario. From their brightly painted building, enveloped in a geometric mural they completed together, they create works of art that catch light and cast a spectrum of colour. Damon was born and raised in Thunder Bay and is a multimedia artist specializing in glass design. He began his career as a painter and photographer and began experimenting with stained glass in 1975, lured by the intense colours of the glass. In the same year, he established Kleewyck Stained Glass Studio with his partner, Estella Howard. As a painter, he focused on abstract work with a linear basis and he immediately saw how his ideas could be represented by stained glass. He started selling stained glass pieces at craft shows and his business grew from there. Commissioned work for homeowners expanded to businesses, architects and major projects. In 1993, Damon and Estella, along with three local artists, created a mural for the visitor’s centre at the Fort William Historical Park. The mural, named Kee-Way-Win or Return to the Source, commemorates Fort William’s fur trade history. Damon specializes in architectural works that reflect the spirit of the northern landscape and the themes of water, waves and rock pervade his work. His challenge is to bring the elements of the earth together because, in Damon’s view, “the various forms of animate and inanimate life in the world, although they seem separate and dissimilar, are, at the most profound level, inseparable, similar, and one.” Joshua also works with glass, but in a much different form. Using layers of coloured glass, he uses a kiln to fuse the glass and then create glass plates, bowls and jewelry. The colour and pattern combinations with fused glass are infinite and Joshua sometimes repeats the process of layering, fusing, and cutting the glass several times before completing the final layout of glass strips for a bowl or plate. The glass is fused in the kiln at 1,500 F, laid over a clay form and the fired at 1,300 F – a temperature that is hot enough to soften the glass so that it sinks into the clay form, but not so hot that it melts the colours together. Joshua’s work combines a myriad of colours and features unique geometric patterns and abstract designs. The name of their gallery, Kleewyck, is borrowed from Emily Carr, one of Canada’s foremost painters and authors. On a visit to a small community on the western side of Vancouver Island, Carr received the name Klee Wyck, or Laughing One. For more information contact Kleewyck Stained Glass Studios at (807) 622-6636, or visit www.kleewyck.com. Michelle McChristie

Superior Outdoors

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artsandliterature

Mr. Environment by Mark Munger Cloquet River Press 526 pp., softcover

From humble beginnings in a log cabin in Otter Tail County, Minnesota, Willard Munger learned the virtues of hard work, honesty and integrity. Combined with his interest in politics, these virtues lead him to become Minnesota’s longest-serving member of the Minnesota House of Representatives.

As a legislator, Willard was known to be persistent and dedicated. He was an environmentalist in the 1950s – decades before the existence of environmental groups or environmental laws. During his 43 years in elected office, Willard spearheaded legislation to ban DDT; require sewage treatment; establish recreational trails; create Minnesota’s Environmental and Natural Resources Trust Fund; protect wetlands; and implement recycling – to name a few. His non-environmental accomplishments are also impressive and are a testament to his humanity and concern for future generations. In this candid, yet scrupulous, biography of his late uncle, Mark Munger chronicles Willard’s life as a schoolboy, a labourer, an entrepreneur and a legislator. A multitude of letters and newspaper articles are sewn together by oral history contributed by Willard’s family and friends. The book will leave some readers feeling as though they missed out by not knowing Willard, or perhaps by not having the opportunity to vote for him. Mr. Environment is recommended reading for anyone with an interest in the environment or politics. MM

Superior: Spirit and Light by Ian Tamblyn North Track Records Compact Disc

Superior: Spirit and Light is the first of a series of four CDs in Ian Tamblyn’s “Four Coast Project.” For this project, Tamblyn is visiting each of Canada’s coasts – the Pacific, Atlantic, Arctic and Great Lakes (Lake Superior). The impetus for the project is Lake Superior and, specifically, the North Shore. For Tamblyn, the haunted and spiritual qualities of the lake are undeniable and the Four Coast Project is his exploration of these feelings along other coastlines. The songs on Superior: Spirit and Light evoke images of Superior’s rugged environment and tumultuous past. The songs are rooted in nature with resonating messages about the fur trade, Group of Seven and economic hardships of northern towns. Tamblyn offers reflections on a life lived on the lakeshore and the feelings precipitated by homecomings. Ian Tamblyn is one of Canada’s foremost folk musicians. If you are not familiar with his music, Superior: Spirit and Light will be a worthy introduction. For more on Ian Tamblyn and the Four Coast Project, visit www.tamblyn.com.

Cranes

by Janice M. Hughes Firefly Books 256 pp., hardcover Long in neck, leg and wing, cranes are imposing wading birds that are among the largest and tallest of the world’s bird families. Cranes are found on all continents except South America and Antarctica. They are typically associated with open wetland and grassland habitats, where their bright plumage, graceful proportions and convivial nature are displayed in elaborate dancing and duet calling. Cranes choose life-long mates and are devoted parents that raise their young with tenderness and determination. Cranes presents a beautifully illustrated natural history of these fascinating birds. The book describes their anatomy, feeding habits, mating rituals, habitats and seasonal movements. A special section is devoted to cranes in myth and folklore. Profiles are included for specific species, such as the Sandhill Crane that is found near Lake Superior (for a musical recording of Sandhills, check out Ian Tamblyn’s CD). The efforts to save the Whooping Cranes is presented as a case study and, although their population is recovering from the brink of extinction, their story serves as a call for conservation. MM

Superior Outdoors

Snowshoeing the shores of Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Upper Peninsula

Superior Outdoors

Under a Blanket of Snow and Ice Exploring Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Upper Peninsula words and photos by Chris Gibbs

Superior Outdoors

(top left) The UP is the birthplace of organized skiing in the U.S. (above) Exploring the UP’s wilderness by dogsled

ichigan’s Upper Peninsula (UP) spans most of Lake Superior’s south shore. The UP’s winters are characterized by a blanket of snow that is typically five metres (200 inches) thick, thanks to “lake effect” snow. When cold winds blow across Lake Superior, the air picks up water vapour that freezes and is then deposited on the windward shore. The plentiful 30

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snow, combined with cold temperatures, creates a winter playground with endless opportunities for silent sport recreation. Snowshoeing in the UP is not only a recreational sport but is a necessity when snowfalls leave behind a few feet of snow. There are ample snowshoeing opportunities along Lake Superior and in the Grand Island National Recreation Area. Grand

Endless opportunities to snowshoe in the UP means lots of untracked snow

Island is accessible from Munising and has more than 5,460 hectares (13,500 acres) to explore. The sandstone cliffs and sea caves along its shoreline create amazing ice formations and attract ice climbers from far and near. In addition, the Hiawatha National Forest has a network of snowshoeing trails that weave in and out of mixed hardwood forests, hemlock

groves, pine stands and small streams. As the epicenter of Midwest skiing and snowboarding, the UP has several ski resorts that are scattered throughout the region. Skiers can opt for terrain that is accessible by ski lift or they can take their skills to the backcountry for an experience that will give any skier a powder grin. Cross-country Superior Outdoors

Superior Outdoors

(left) Free climbing an ice pillar on Grand Island (above) “Ice Curtains” outside Munising

trails abound in parks and protected areas and include scenic routes to waterfalls, ice caves and lookouts. Designated trails are well marked with directional signs and experience levels. The UP is known as the birthplace of organized skiing in the U.S. and the city of Ishpeming is home to the National Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame and Museum. The Hall of Fame and Museum offers an opportunity to see the first chairlift, learn about the evolution of the ski and all who have influenced the sports of skiing and snowboarding. Another way to explore the UP’s wilderness is by dog sled an activity that may not seem like a silent sport to a newcomer. As the dogs are being harnessed up and anxiously anticipate their run, loud barking echoes through the woods. However once the musher pulls the snow hook, the dogs focus on pulling the sled and the only sounds are those of the sled’s runners gliding through the snow and the heavy breathing of

the dogs. In February, the UP 200 Sled Dog Championship starts in Marquette and runs to Grand Marais and back. The UP 200 is a competitive, 12-dog, mid-distance sled dog race that is approximately 386 kilometres (240 miles) long. It is a qualifying race for the Iditarod and usually reaches its full capacity of 40 mushers and their teams. The UP also offers excellent ice climbing opportunities with numerous climbable waterfalls and other unique ice formations. Along the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and Grand Island, water seepage from the sandstone bluffs and cliffs forms a spectacular curtain of ice and pillars, some of which are over 60 metres (200 feet). The highlight of the UP’s ice climbing season is Ice Fest, held annually during the first weekend in February. Since its inception in 1980, Ice Fest has grown into a major international event that brings hundreds of climbers to the Munising area and offers instructional Superior Outdoors

(above) Ice formations along Grand Island (bottom right) Getting to remote ice climbing areas in the UP means walking through a winter wonderland

courses, clinics and gear demos. The hearty folk who call the UP home are affectionately nicknamed “UP-ers” or, more accurately, “Yoopers”. A visit to the UP is not complete without a trip to Da Yoopers Tourist Trap and Museum in Ishpeming. Learn how to speak Yooper and check out the unique collection of Yooper innovations such as “Gus,” the largest working chain saw in the world. It seems that in addition to a variety of outdoor recreation activities, Yooper winters also provide plenty of time for silent indoor activities like thinking, reading and dreaming. Chris Gibbs

Superior Outdoors

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Superior Outdoors

The

Kingof

Stokely Creek

words by Michelle McChristie photography by Darren McChristie

Superior Outdoors

(above) The panoramic view of the Algoma Highlands as seen from the top of King Mountain (below) Preparing skis in the well-equipped waxing room

Nestled in the Algoma Highlands northwest of Sault Ste. Marie is a Scandinavian-style getaway known as Stokely Creek Lodge. Arriving late at night in complete darkness, we leave our car at the parking lot and carry in our skis and bags. We could have called for a pick-up by Stokelyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s snowmobile taxi but, after over eight hours on the road, appreciate the short walk in the cold air. The glowing lights from the lodge and cabins and the impressive icicles hanging from the roofs present a welcoming image. Inside the main lodge, there is a fire burning in the fireplace. Having left our kids with their grandparents, I uncork a bottle of red wine. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not very often that my husband and I get a weekend to ourselves. When we wake up we find that everything looks different in the morning light. We make our way to breakfast and find the dining room abuzz with skiers and snowshoers eating and talking. After having breakfast and several cups of coffee, we decide to gather our gear and hit the trails. We soon discover that deciding on a specific trail can be a daunting task: the lines on the small trail map resemble a maze and the trails appear to cover an enormous area. Perhaps recognizing us as first time Stokely skiers, Doug and Lorna Pitt introduce themselves and outline our options. As 38

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(bottom right) The long and gradual climb to the top of King Mountain

they are both wearing ski patrol jackets, we figure we will be in good hands. After receiving from input from Doug, we decide that King Mountain sounds like the best option. Doug describes the route as a ten-kilometre loop that offers a challenging climb, a great view and plenty of photo opportunities. We head out on a trail that follows Stokely Creek. The air is frost-laden and my hands are freezing, despite the brisk pace our tour guides have set. When we climb out of the valley, it feels as though we have emerged from a cloud. The trees are sparkling in the sunlight and we remark on how lucky we are to have such a perfect day. We stop to take in the scenery and talk about the unique agreement that has facilitated the operation of the lodge and the extensive network of trails. As the current president of the Algoma Highlands Conservancy (AHC) and a researcher with the Canadian Forest Service, Doug is able to provide a firsthand account of the history of Stokely Creek Lodge. The late Charles (Chuck) Peterson founded Stokely Creek Lodge in the late 1970s. Over a period of thirty years, his private retreat for friends and family evolved into a bustling lodge with over 180 kilometres of ski trails situated on approximately 3,400 hectares of for-

est. Chuck was passionate about crosscountry skiing and conservation and his dream was to create a world-class crosscountry ski experience while maintaining the ecological integrity of the area. It was his vision that led to the formation of the AHC in 1992. When Chuck passed away in 2000, the future of Stokely Creek Lodge was in limbo. Although the AHC would have gladly purchased the property, the price tag was, in Doug’s words, “way out

of their league.” Finally in 2007, Astina Forest AG, a European forestry company, purchased the property. Astina is a family-owned business with long-term interests in the property. However, their business is sustainable forest management rather than ecotourism or recreation. As a result, Astina’s purchase was a catalyst for the AHC to begin negotiations to reach an agreement that would ensure that the lodge and trails could continue to operate. A deal was bro-

(above) The glowing lights of the Scandinavian-style main lodge (left) Lucie Gagnon snowshoeing along Stokely Creek. Lucie and her partner, Bob Yankus, have designed and developed the growing network of snowshoe trails

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kered that included the sale of the lodge to the Byker–Phair family and an agreement to maintain the use of the trail system for silent sport recreation. In addition, Astina was willing to sell approximately one-third of the Stokely Creek Property including King Mountain to the AHC. The price tag was $1.5 million and they had two years to close the purchase. As we resume skiing through a stand of large sugar maples, I wonder if the AHC will be successful in raising the required funds and contemplate the consequences if they do not. Although Doug explained that the agreement guarantees access to the trails, I am concerned that a piecemeal approach to managing the property will not be sustainable. Doug stops at the base of a long climb as two skiers whiz by with huge smiles on their faces. Our little break quickly becomes a lesson in sustainable forest management as Doug explains the dynamics of the forest ecosystem and Astina’s management approach. He explains that the forest is dominated by shade-tolerant hardwoods, such as sugar maple and, to a lesser extent, yellow birch, red oak and hemlock. Shade tolerant tree seedlings can establish under a forest canopy but they require additional light as they grow taller. Natural occurrences such as diseases and blow-downs create the needed openings for additional light. According to Doug, “selection harvesting is the regeneration method of choice for this type of forest because diseased, defective and damaged trees can be removed to improve the quality of the stand.” I suppose this is akin to accelerated natural selection – diseased trees can be removed before neighbouring trees are affected and selective cutting can ensure that the healthiest trees are left to seed and regenerate the forest. Despite Doug’s assurances that Astina has long-term management goals that will span several “cutting cycles” of 20-25 years, I am skeptical. Northern Ontario has a legacy of land-use conflicts between forestry companies, tourism operators, anglers and hunters, and silent sport recreationists. Accounts of forestry companies working in partnership with a group of conservationists and an ecotourism business are rare. To date, Astina’s harvesting has been primarily on the northwest end of the property. The wood has been sold to various markets including local firewood and to be used as pulpwood for the Espanola mill. Doug equates this type of harvesting with “skimming the interest from a bank account” while the trees that are the principal investment are left to mature. Over time, the forest will yield a greater proportion of saw logs and veneer, more valuable wood that, as Doug explains, “will provide the landowner with sustained revenue.” I reach the summit of King Mountain feeling overdressed and thirsty. I im-

(right) Taking a break at Bone Lake, en route to Norm’s cabin

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The memorabilia in the iconic Norm’s Cabin

mediately remove my skis and walk to the lookout to take in the panoramic view of Lake Superior and the Algoma Highlands, including the treeless peak of Batchawana Mountain. King Mountain has some areas with a similar microclimate that results in stunted trees and plants that are more commonly found in the Arctic. Outside the little hut adjacent to the lookout, a father and son are enjoying a hot drink from their thermoses. They have come to Stokely from Detroit and are repeat customers, like many of the tourists I have met. Stokely is a winter tradition for many families and is a place that invites numerous visits to explore the vast network of cross-country ski and recently expanded snowshoe trails. As I step back into my skis, I am looking forward to a long and fast downhill. This is a secondary reward on a trail that offers such an impressive view. The descent proves to be well worth the climb. The trail is so smooth, I see no reason to snowplow despite the fact that I am going so fast that my eyes are watering. At the bottom, we make a beeline to the lodge for a scrumptious and savory meal. After enjoying another hearty meal in the lodge we reconvene near the ski rack to decide on a route for the afternoon. We’ve been told that a visit to Stokely is not complete without a cup of tea at Norm’s Cabin, a landmark on the shore of Bone Lake. Despite the fact that Darren and I are tired and yearning for the sauna, our goal is to pack as much skiing as we can into a single day and we head out on the 18-kilometre round trip. At Norm’s Cabin we are greeted by the AHC’s newest employee, Tom Schorney. Tom’s responsibilities include maintaining the cabin and ensuring that skiers have a warm place to take a break from skiing and enjoy a cup of tea. Doug explains that the former hunting/fishing cabin was built by Norm Bourgeois and is now owned by the AHC. He tells us that Norm “opened his doors to skiers and hikers and offered them a warm place to rest, a cup of tea and entertained them 42

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with his stories about life in the Canadian bush.” After browsing the memorabilia and somewhat bizarre items adorning the cabin’s walls and ceiling, we finish our tea and leave Tom to stoke the fire for the skiers that will come after us, just as Norm would have done. Looking at his watch, Doug realizes that he will need to pick up the pace if he is going to be on time for dinner. As we ski back to the lodge, Darren and I struggle to keep up but our efforts prove futile as Doug disappears with the setting sun. I’ve come to appreciate that Stokely Creek Lodge is not just about the lodge, the trails, or even the skiing. It is about the experience. And it is this experience the AHC, along with the Byker-Phair family, are working so tirelessly to save. Months later, I meet Doug at his office on the day before a donor recognition event at Stokely Creek Lodge. Beaming with pride, Doug explains how the AHC reached their goal of raising $1.5 million dollars to purchase the crown jewel of Stokely Creek, the King Mountain property. He describes the efforts of the AHC’s staff and volunteers and the support of private donors and foundations. The Byker family, demonstrating their commitment to Chuck’s vision, generously matched all private donations. In the next breath, he cautions that the AHC will likely have to borrow some funds to close the deal and that there will be the inevitable ongoing maintenance costs. According to Doug, the AHC will continue its fundraising “to ensure that our children and our children’s children can use this small, but incredibly beautiful, corner of the planet to gain an understanding and appreciation of all the benefits the natural world has to offer and which we, as humans, ultimately depend.” I think Chuck Peterson would be proud to know that his private retreat that evolved into a world-class recreational area has been secured as a legacy for the future. Michelle McChristie

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Yurt to Yurt Backcountry touring on Minnesotaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gunflint Trail

words and photographs by Conor Mihell

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(above) Ted Young chatting with Kim about his preferred style of winter camping (bottom left) Chef Lesley Hopperton preparing a Mongolian-style feast

Soft, late-afternoon light diffuses through the weatherworn canvas of the Croft Yurt, a winter shelter beside a classic pinerimmed northwoods lake, two-thirds of the way along northern Minnesota’s Banadad cross-country ski trail. Boundary Country Trekking co-owner Ted Young set up this yurt, which he named after a popular local character, when he was a fledgling businessman with big ideas in the early 1980s. Decades later, countless ski tourers have appreciated the warmth of its oversized woodstove and the shelter of its unflappable walls in the long winters of western Lake Superior. The copious smoke stains and a cloudy plastic skylight show the Croft Yurt’s age, and Young admits it is time for a rebuild. In Central Asia, the birthplace of these lattice-framed, circular tents, the shangrak, the woven-wood network of trusses that form the yurt’s dome-shaped covering, would be preserved, the stains of generations of woodsmoke celebrating family heritage. Here in the wilderness of the Boundary Waters, the Croft Yurt’s sooty shangrak speaks to a rich past and the joys of comfortable wilderness ski touring. Barbara and Ted Young’s Boundary Country Trekking base is located just under an hour’s drive northwest of Grand Marais, Minnesota, in the midst of the Superior National Forest and on the doorstep of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). 46

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Kim skiing on the Banadad’s narrow, balsam fir-lined corridor

The Youngs moved to the Gunflint in 1974. Early on, Ted got his start with canoe outfitting and guiding services and dogsledding (all of which Boundary Country still offers today). In 1984, he pitched the Croft Yurt on Bedew Lake, at the midway point of the 30-kilometre (18.6-mile) long Banadad cross-country ski trail, which had just opened a few years earlier. He added a second yurt a year later, effectively pioneering the concept of yurt-to-yurt ski touring to the American Midwest. In the summer, the BWCA is one of the most popular wilderness areas in the United States. But in the winter, especially in the more unpredictable weather of late March when my wife Kim and I visited, the area is all but deserted. We had the scenic Gunflint Trail highway to ourselves on the Saturday afternoon we drove to the Boundary Country Trekking headquarters. Part of the appeal of a weekend ski trip on the Banadad is that Boundary Country Trekking shuttles your gear from yurt to yurt by snowmobile, and can provide some or all of your meals along the way. After skiing the easy two-kilometre-long trail to the Tall Pines Yurt on Hooker Lake, we met Ted Young and chef Lesley Hopperton, our “yurt hosts” for the evening. Waiting for dinner, Kim and I chatted with Young about his

preferred style of winter camping. The term “yurt,” explained Young, comes from the Russian word for Central Asia’s traditional wooden lattice-framed, felt-covered, circular shelter, which in Mongolia is known as a “gher.” Yurts are the original four-season tent, designed to withstand the strong winds and heavy snows of the Mongolian plateau, yet be light and compact enough to be transported by yak and sheep herding nomads from campsite to campsite. While the palatial seven-metre-diameter, three-metre-high Tall Pines Yurt is hardly as transportable as its Mongolian ancestors, it boasts the same weatherproofness and all-season comfort. Its fabric walls scarcely ruffled in the damp, gusty breeze, and the airtight woodstove quickly heated the spacious shelter to t-shirt temperatures. Our dinner for the night also held true to Central Asian tradition. While Young, Kim and I lounged on the futon, Hopperton prepared a feast of seafood, meat and vegetables simmered in a broth in a firepot, a charcoal briquette-fueled double-burner, and served stir-fry style with a variety of sauces over a bed of rice. “Once we had the yurts we wanted to get the meals just right,” said Young. “The truly traditional meats to cook in the firepot would be yak and mutton. But what you’re having is the next best thing.” Turns out nomadic tribes Superior Outdoors

cooked communal firepot meals for generations, much the same as we enjoyed in the northwoods of Minnesota. “The idea,” added Young, “is that as friends come and go the firepot is kept hot and ready to cook up a meal.” Over countless refills from the firepot, Young spoke of the history of the Banadad, the longest groomed cross-country ski trail in the BWCA. Beginning in 1956, loggers developed a network of tote roads in the area and cut extensively. In this sense, it’s fitting that Banadad, an Ojibway word, roughly translates to “lost” - as in “wilderness lost.” But then, with the 1978 passing of legislation that abolished logging in the BWCA, the Banadad was reborn as a cross-country ski trail. Since BWCA policy also outlaws the use of all-terrain vehicles and mechanical earthmovers for trail maintenance, all work on the Banadad is done by hand. Each summer, Young and 30-odd volunteers spend up to 650 hours clearing blowdowns, rebuilding bridges and trimming vegetation by hand. While Young is allowed to groom the trail with a snowmobile, he asserted that the dense surrounding second-growth forest imparts a distinct feeling of intimacy and remoteness to the ski experience. “The trail is far narrower than most people are used to,” said Young. “After a snowstorm in January, it’s almost like skiing through a tunnel of snow-covered trees.” We arrived at the Croft Yurt after skiing 18 kilometres of the Banadad. The trail lived up to Young’s description. For the most part, the trail is a two-metre-wide, balsam fir-lined corridor that makes other groomed ski trails feel like expressways. Trees whizzed by at arm’s length as we skirted lakes, wetlands and the charred remains of one of the largest wildfires in Minne(above) Stoking the fire in the Croft Yurt (below) The Banadad Trail is the longest groomed crosscountry ski trail in the BWCA

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sota history. This was spring skiing at its best. Like a locomotive on a narrow-gauge railway, we locked our feet in the tracks and double-poled like the dickens, grip wax be damned. At lunch we lathered on sunblock as the midday sun reflected off of crusty snow and seared the retinas. Warm afternoon temperatures softened the snow enough to make the Banadad’s most harrowing descents, aptly named Whoopee One and Whoopee Two, somewhat skiable for a kamikaze downhiller like myself. Luckily, tall, soft snowbanks, remnants of the BWCA’s 2.5 metres of annual snowfall, quelled my fear of spectacular and painful wipeouts. Except for catching an edge on one sharp corner, I made it through unscathed. Kim’s less daredevil approach to cross-country skiing saw her successfully navigating the challenging hills with a combination of snowplows and boot-packs. Needless to say, given the fast snow conditions it was barely mid-afternoon by the time we got to the Croft Yurt, an hour before Young’s staff delivered our food and gear to the shelter. We spent the afternoon reading, playing cards and watching the sky darken ominously through the yurt’s skylight top. Every time we went outside, half-tame gray jays swarmed us frantically in search of food, further foreshadowing a change in weather. We welcomed the strengthening breeze with an open door to offset the roaring heat of the yurt’s blast furnace of a woodstove. Weatherworn or otherwise, the Croft Yurt was a safe harbour in a tempest; the building winds were barely discernible inside, and the only sign of approaching foul weather were changes in the

quality of light filtering through the skylight and reflecting off the canvas walls. Northern Minnesota was in the heart of a late-winter storm when we awoke the next morning. Freezing rain pelted our stalwart shelter and gusts of wind tore at the stovepipe. We awoke early, hoping to get out before the Banadad became a skating rink. Waxing classic cross-country skis for such conditions is a losing proposition. We layered on gooey masses of Special Red and hoped for the best, fully expecting to be double-poling on bases scraped bare by the time we’d skied our first kilometre. We reluctantly stepped outside, and suddenly our cushy, “soft” wilderness adventure became more challenging. The final 12 kilometres of the Banadad were a mix of wild, outof-control downhills on an icy, luge-like course and awkward, slip-sliding herringbone climbs. Eventually, soaked, bruised, exhausted and cursing profusely, we made it to the trailhead, where our ice-encased car looked dreadfully inferior to a comfortable yurt. Digging out the keys from my hip-pack, I looked at Kim and suggested perhaps we’d be better off skiing back to the warm and snug Croft Yurt. Her eyes asked me, “Aren’t you cold and soaked enough already?” And so I fired up the defroster and we ponderously drove away. Conor Mihell

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Climbing Casket Quarry “You’re nuts! The weather forecast is awesome for this weekend, the ice is fat, and you’re leaving to go play in some rotten quarry? And you’re driving more than three hours to get there, in the winter! What’s wrong with you?” I have to agree with Patrick, one of my regular climbing partners. On the face of it, I do appear to have lost it. Living in Thunder Bay, we certainly do have it made: world-class ice climbs within city limits and the famed ice climbs of the Nipigon area a little over an hour’s drive away, with many only a five-minute walk from the car once there. It has been a long, cold winter here in Northern Ontario, and the first warm weekend in a long time seems like a compelling reason to stick around. Now would be a great time to put that end-of-season fitness to work on some of the area’s most challenging climbs. The bulletproof ice resulting from the last cold snap, where temperatures hovered below -30 C for over a month, will finally be giving way to the soft ice of spring. The climbing should be spectacular. So why, then, am I about to make the treacherous winter drive down Lake Superior’s north shore to Duluth, a place known more for its shopping and night life than its climbing? Why am I trading the spectacular natural scenery of the Norwesters, Nipigon Palisades and Kama Hills for a rotten old crag blasted into the side of an old quarry? The answer is simple: going “dry-tooling” will provide me with a great way

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words and photographs by

Nick Buda

to reconnect with some old friends. Being fortunate enough to live and climb in Thunder Bay for well over a decade has had the happy consequence of my meeting and forging strong friendships with many members of our “local” climbing community. With Nipigon as the epicentre for winter climbing in the mid-continent, and a great many motivated climbers in central Canada and the Midwestern United States, many of the winter “locals” are actually weekend commuters from areas as far away as Winnipeg, Minneapolis and Madison. When you consider their motivation and energy for climbing, and the occasionally dangerous winter driving conditions, it’s not surprising that a few of them have looked for ways to satisfy their hard climbing addiction closer to home. For more than thirty years now, local climbers in Duluth have gone to an old quarry to practice their skills on the handful of ephemeral ice flows present there during most winters. More recently, the popularity and convenience of “sport-mixed climbing” or “dry-tooling” has sparked a renewed interest in the venue. When you consider the absurdity of seeking out a winter wilderness experience in an old quarry, it seems appropriate that the protagonists would pursue an equally absurd sport.

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“Dry-tooling” is the latest evolution of the winter climbing game, and for a variety of reasons the favoured type of climbing for a great many of the most talented winter climbers. Dry-tooling simply involves climbing bare (dry) rock devoid of ice with ice axes and crampons. Though guidebook authors like to reference an old journal article from the turn of the last century, wherein a mountaineer describes the use of his mountaineering pick in an icy crack to gain purchase on an ascent, modern dry-tooling is a fairly recent development. The first ice climbers, and subsequent “mixed” climbers (those climbing rock, ice, snow and even frozen turf in quick succession or at the same time) were mountaineers essentially climbing anything and everything the mountain offered on 60

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the way to the summit. Using ice tools, crampons and gloved hands on rock came naturally. Mixed climbing in general eventually began to evolve as its own discipline and certain areas, most notably Scotland, have proud histories and strict ethics regarding its practice. Ice climbing on frozen waterfalls, as many know it today, only recently became a mainstream practice and activity in its own right. Once the top-end climbers of the era mastered the art of climbing frozen waterfalls, they began to look at dry-tooling as a way of accessing many of the hanging drips and other routes that never quite reached the ground. It was not long before the sheer physical difficulty, once only attainable on the more dangerous ice climbs, became appealing enough to be pursued in its own right. The eventual

Previous page - Matt Giambrone on the second ascent of Off Ramp. This route represents one of the joys of this type of climbing; the ice needed to make it climbable does not form every year. When it does, the climb is a treat, even for crag regulars. Clockwise from bottom left - James Loveridge on Reefer Madness; Guy Lacelle on Crescent, one of the crags finest routes. Guy is widely regarded as one of the best ice climbers in the world; ; Guy Lacelle negotiates the crux rock climbing section of Off Ramp; Wes Bender on Strike Three, styling his first ever sport-mixed climb. A very experienced ice climber, the precision required for this particular route came easily to him on this day. Following page - James Loveridge making a clip on Reefer Madness, Guy Lacelle belaying. In the background, Jenn Chikoski is getting a practice lap on the pure ice climb Big Blue.

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use of fixed protection was a natural crossover from techniques used on the hardest rock climbs, and removed much of the risk of falling. With climbers able to focus more on technical challenges with substantially less risk, and with lots of spectacular photos and attention in the mainstream climbing media, the popularity of the sport has surged. The gear has evolved to follow suit, and modern mixed climbers now have an array of excellent equipment from which to choose. Sport-mixed climbers require a few ingredients for an enjoyable outing. Most obvious, they require a venue with a rock type amenable to this style of climbing (generally steeper rock with many small edges and cracks for tool placements – the blasted rock in an old quarry might be perfect); at least a small amount of ice (to make it seem less contrived); and some motivated locals to establish and equip the routes. Freezing temperatures would seem obvious for the bits of ice, but are also essential to keep the rock frozen together. This is because drytoolers generally practice their craft on poor, manky rock that summer rock climbers would never visit. It’s also a good idea to keep a file on hand as sharp gear allows you to utilize even the smallest edges and features, and not surprisingly climbing rock with steel dulls the pointy bits. Finally, ready access and a good local climbing scene for the all-important betweenclimb socializing will complete a good day of climbing. In my case, I also like to have a long-list of lame excuses handy in case of lackluster performances on my chosen routes. After deciphering some vague cell-phone directions from my good friend and local hardman James, I manage to find the parking area, defined only by the presence of his car and a highly amused local that is walking her dog: “Yup. Those guys are back there all right. Nice fellows… but they must be a little crazy to be climbing them icicles!” I agree with her readily and shoulder my bag, made pleasantly lighter by the fact that I won’t need the massive rack of climbing protection, ice screws and second rope I typically require on the traditional climbs back home. I make sure my bag of excuses is at the ready though – I’m expecting to be humbled. Walking in, I’m immediately greeted by Guy’s dog. Friendly though he is, I’d rather he didn’t lick my face after munching on the rotting deer carcass he’s found nearby. Hiking around the requisite junk pile and trashed cars that always 62

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seem to mark abandoned quarries, I meet up with my friends after a whopping two-minute hike. I could get used to this! I’m glad to see them and looking forward to catching up – because of the severe winter weather, it’s been a while since they’ve visited. I snap a few quick photos of the “cliff ” and barely get talking before I’m told to suit up and start climbing. As usual, James has convinced me to get on a difficult route nearly immediately after a quick warm-up, and I find myself willing my crampon point to stay on a tiny little dimple in the rock while I try to reach way up and torque my ice tool’s pick in a thin crack. My abs feel ready to explode from the body tension and my rapidly tiring forearms are telling me a fall is imminent. Despite this, I’m at once fascinated and terrified at just how small an edge I can utilize with my steel points. Two more long pulls and I manage to snag the token icicle at the top of the route. Normally, I would be at home on this type of ice and climbing it would be nearly effortless for me. However, that stretch of difficult rock climbing below makes this ice seem very difficult indeed. After a few more minutes of embarrassing hacking with my tired arms and plenty of encouragement from my friends below, I’m clipping the rope through the top anchors on the climb and enjoying the buzz of climbing a route at my limit on my first attempt. I’ve scarcely lowered myself back to the ground and I notice James already shuffling the rope over to the next route. So pumped I can barely untie from the rope, I reach into my bag of excuses and opt to eat, socialize, and take a few photos. This proves to be a highlight for me, as I’m treated to watching my friends, all exceptionally talented climbers, climbing some very challenging routes. There’s something about watching a truly gifted athlete in their element that is at once inspiring and humbling. As the sun drops below the horizon taking the warm temperatures with it, we begin coiling icy ropes and packing our frozen gear. I reflect on the sheer joy of being outside in the winter with good friends and coast on the unique natural high that follows a hard effort with an element of risk. Suddenly, passing up a good day of ice climbing back home doesn’t seem so absurd. Nick Buda

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Glassy Day Marquette, Michigan native and freshwater surfer, Dan Schetter, catches a smooth ride, his path etched in some of the last open water on wintery Lake Superior. With air temps not rising above -20 C/-5 F all day, the Big Lake took on an incredibly glassy appearance, due to the surface of the water literally at the freezing point. The thin layer of forming surface ice deadened everything but the swells. I’ve accepted as a photographer to go with the flow and take what comes. Such was the case on this surf expedition, in which I found myself stuck at the top, deciding not to chance the 300 foot very steep and frozen sand dune the surfers had to climb/rappel down to get to some of the last waves of the season. As I found out, this eagle eye view from the top was not such a bad thing after all, with the distance in height from the top of the dune to the water level providing the perfect perspective to capture in one image what a thousand words can’t describe. Shawn Malone

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